The Forest of Arden : its towns, villages, and hamlets: a topographical and historical account of the district between and around Henley-in-Arden and Hampton-in-Arden in the county of Warwick

THE FOREST OF ARDEK

JOHN HANNETT.

. . x , •

f*'\

THE

FOREST OF ARDEN

ITS TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND HAMLETS:

A TOPOGRAPHICAL AND HISTORICAL ACCOUNT

OF THE DISTRICT BETWEEN AND AROUND

HENLEY-IN-AEDEN AND HAMPTON-IN-ARDEN

IN THE COUNTY OF WARWICK.

ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS.

\ f

BY JOHN HANNETT,

Author of "BIBLIOPEGIA OR BOOKBINDING," "THE BOOKS OF THE ANCIENTS," "THE HISTORY OF THE ART
OF BOOKBINDING," "THE PRACTICAL ART OF BOOKBINDING, 1837, 1848, 1865."

" Ivet fields and streams, purling through the valleys be my delight ;
unambitious, may I court the rivers and the woods." — Virgil.

BIRMINGHAM :

C H ARLES LOWE.

1894.

*

;

p/e

~TN the preparation of this second edition of "THE FOREST OP
ARDEN, ITS TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND HAMLETS," no change has
been made in the Text of 1863. Additions to it, however, will be
found, comprising illustrative historical matter, together with notices
of new churches, restorations of old ones, the names of present
incumbents, and the populations according to the recent census.

The reader is reminded that he will find explanatory descriptions
of the initial letters, at the head of each chapter in the text, and in
the List of Engravings.

To the generation which has grown up since the first edition was
published, the author now commits this re-issue of a work which has
long been out of print, hoping that it may obtain as favourable a
reception as the volume which preceded it.

Henley-in-Arden^ J. H.

1894.

$uftlisf)cr's Note,

[The original edition of "The Forest of Arden" was issued to the subscribers
in 1863, and was soon out of print. This reprint is copied exactly from the text
of the former edition, with many additions and amendations which Mr. Hannett
hid written, and prepared for the press, when he died full of years and honours on
April i$th, 1893, in the 8j//i year of his age, at Henley-in-Ardcn, where he had
lived fof more than fifty years. He was born at Sleaford in Lincolnshire, but
removed to London, and his failing health led him to Henley-in-Arden, where he
dwoted his life to the study of " Arden" and to several volumes of Bibliographical
valiw. He was an earnest student, and a courtly gentleman, was High Bailiff and
General Almoner for many years, especially devoting his research and knoivledge to
his adopted home. "Age had not withered him" and his latest years were as "a
lusty winter frosty but kindly" and his name will be ever honoured by all who knew
him, and by many ivho have kmwn him only by his numerous and valued works.]

preface to tfje ©rtgmal ISWtion.

compiler of the following pages would deprecate a too rigid
criticism of his performance, being sensible that the volume
which he now commits to his subscribers and the public, is destitute
of the merits which would have better corresponded with the liberal
patronage and encouragement which, he is happy to acknowledge,
have, from many quarters, been accorded to him during its progress.

The historical portion of the work has been mainly derived from
the great Warwickshire historian, Dugdale, supplemented by the works
of Iceland, Cainden, Tanner, and Stukeley, and by publications issued
under the authority of Parliament. To these have been added numerous
extracts from many interesting documents among the MSS. in the
British Museum, the Record and Augmentation Offices, and Parish
Registers, &c., which have never before been made public.

The general plan of the work will be found to consist of a Nine
Days' Tour through the district laid down in the accompanying Map.
A description of the Churches, and an account of ancient and modern
Mansions, Religious Houses, and other notable features of the country,

are given at length, together with particulars of the characteristic

b

viii Preface to the Original Edition.

scenery of this eminently rural district. These have been illustrated
by upwards of fifty engravings, executed by Mr. E. Whimper, of
London, principally from photographs taken expressly for the purpose.

Henley-in-Arden,

June, 1863.

list of €ttgra&mp.

Map of the District To face Title

Headpiece — Oak at Packwood j

Initial Letter — Forest Scene I

Plan of British Roads 7

Plan of Harborough Banks 9

Camp Hill — A Roman Post 9

South Entrance to Henley-in-Arden 21

Initial Letter — Tomb of Sir John Harewood 21

Henley-in-Arden Chapel, S.E. 29

Monument of Richard Stoke 30

Henley-in-Arden Church, N.E. 31

Ancient Cross, Henley-in Arden 34

Ancient Head of Cross 35

North Gable, Swan Hotel, Henley 36

Baptist Chapel 38

Wootton Wawen Church, S.W. 39

Chained Book, Wootton Church .--42

Wootton Hall 44

Edstone Hall 46

Bearley Church, S.E. 48

Long Aqueduct, Stratford Canal 49

Aston Cantloe Church, S.E. 5*

Initial Letter— Spernall Church, S.E. 59

Oldberrow Church, S.E. 6°

Morton Bagot Church, N.W. 62

Remains of Studley Priory 67

Studley Church, N.E. - - - 68

Studley Castle - 7*

Church near Skilts - - - - 73

Ullenhall Chapel, S.E. - - - 75

Barrells Hall ... - 80

Initial Letter— Salter Street Chapel, N.W. - - - - 81

Tanworth Church, N.E. 85

List of Engravings.

PACK

Umberslade Hall 94

Nuthurst Chapel and Obelisk 9s

Finial Letter— near Henley 99

Initial Letter 101

Lapworth Church and Rectory 104

Beaudesert Church, S.E. "5

Finial Letter 118

Initial Letter — Stone Building, Claverdon 119

Preston Bagot Church, S.W. 123

Claverdon Church, S.W. - - 127

Remains of Pinley Priory 136

Finial Letter 142

Initial Letter— Doorway, Pinley Priory - - 143

Wroxhall Abbey 148

Baddesley Clinton Church, S.W. 152

Baddesley Hall 155

Packwood House 158

Packwood Church, S.E. 161

Initial Letter— Knowle Hall 165

Knowle Church, S.E. 167

Temple Balsall Church, S.W. 177

Initial Letter— Berry Hall, Solihull - - 185

Solihull Church, N.E. - 186

Interior of Chancel, Solihull 189

Malvern Hall 197

HillfieldHall 199

Finial Letter -. 203

Initial Letter — Interior of Bickenhill Church 205

Elmdon Hall 205

Bickenhill Church, S.E. 208

Hampton-in-Arden Church, S.E. 214

Hampton Hall 217

2Ust of

AGAR, S. H., C.C., Hurst House, Henley-in-Arden.

ALLEN, E. G., ESQ., Henrietta Street., Covent Garden, London.

BECKS, R. C. ADAMS, ESQ., Ironmongers' Hall, London, E.G.

BENISON, FRANK, ESQ., 64, Regent Street, Leamington.

BOOTH, JAMES, ESQ., Rowington Hall, Warwickshire.

BODLEIAN LIBRARY, Oxford.

BOLDING, G., ESQ., Hagley Road., Edgbaston.

BRADBURY, J. D., ESQ., Gooch Street, Birmingham.

BRADSHAW, LIEUT. COL. S. S., 21, Lansdowne Place, Leamington.

BREE, THE MOST REV. ARCHDEACON, Allesley, Coventry.

BRITISH MUSEUM, London.

BROWNE, ANTHONY, ESQ., Corporation Street, Birmingham.

CHARLES, EDWARD, J. ESQ., Glenaron, Drayton Road, King's Heath.

CHASE, MR., Bull Ring, Birmingham.

CHATWIN, J. A., F.S.A.Scot., Wellington House, Edgbaston.

CHRISTIE, E. A., ESQ., London & Midland Bank, New Street, Birmingham.

CORNISH, MESSRS., New Street, Birmingham.

DALTRY, REV. THOMAS, Madely Vicarage, Newcastle, Staffs.
DAVIS, WILLIAM, ESQ., 37. Sun Street West, Birmingham.
DRANE, AUGUSTA THEODOSIA, St. Dominic's Priory, Stone, Staff.
DUGDALE, MRS. M. L., Yenden Manor, Henley-on-Thames.
DUIGNAN, W. H., ESQ., J.P., Walsall.

xjj List of Subscribers.

EVANS, VERY REV. CANON, Solihull.

EVERITT, G. A., ESQ., Knowle Hall, Warwickshire.

FAWCETT, MESSRS., Driffield.

FISHER, THOMAS, ESQ., Abbotsbury, Newton Abbot.
FOWKE, Miss H., Hurst House, Henley-in-Arden.
FOWLER, G. M., ESQ., Basford Hall, Nottingham.
FRY, J. F., ESQ., Upton, Didcot, Berks.

GALTON, DARWIN, ESQ., Henley-in-Arden.

GIBBS, Miss, Great Alne.

GLOVER. FRANK, ESQ., "Courier" Office, Leamington.

HADLEY, WALTER, ESQ., Eyre Street, Spring Hill, Birmingham.

HARRIS, W., ESQ., Old Court Yard, High Street, Birmingham.

HATTOX, H. H., ESQ., Corporation Street, Birmingham.

HAYES, ALFRED, ESQ., Midland Institute (Archaeological Section), Paradise Street,

Birmingham.

HOLLAND, WILLIAM, ESQ., 75, Princess Road, Edgbaston.
HOLLIES, G., ESQ., Erdington.

JAFFRAY, WILLIAM, ESQ., J.P., Skilts, Redditch.
JOHNSON, HON. SIR JAMES, Fulford Hall, Tanworth.

KNIGHT, FREDERICK, ESQ., Whateley Hall, Castle Bromwich.

LANCASTER, MRS. ROBERT, Allesley, nr. Coventry.

LAYTON, THOMAS, ESQ., F.S.A., Kew Bridge, Surrey.

LEVY, JAMES, ESQ., 4, Verulam Buildings, Gray's Inn, London.

LIBRARY DEPARTMENT TRINITY COLLEGE, DUBLIN.

MACMILLAN, JOHN, ESQ., 53, Gough Road, Edgbaston.
MALINS, WALTER B., ESQ., 10, Francis Road, Edgbaston.
MANN, G., ESQ., Redditch.

MASON, ROWLAND, ESQ., Chesleigh, Charlotte Road, Birmingham.
MILES, JAMES, ESQ., Leeds.

List of Subscribers.

Xlll

MITCHELL, JOSEPH, ESQ., c/o Mrs. Digby, Coleshill Park, nr. Birmingham.
MUNTZ, G. F., ESQ., J. P., Umberslade, nr. Birmingham.

NEWTON, T. H. G., J.P., Barrells Bark, Henley-in-Arden.
OSBORN, MRS. J., Rowington, Warwickshire.

PALMER, Miss C. G., The Yews, Odiham, Hants.
PARKER, REGINALD, ESQ., 16, Broad Street, Birmingham.
PARSONS, CHARLES, ESQ., J.P., Norfolk Road, Edgbaston.
PINFOLD, Miss G. M., Hurst House, Henley-in-Arden.
PYKE, THOMAS, ESQ., for Public Library, South Shields.

ROBERTS, C. G. ESQ., Alvechurch, Worcestershire.
RYLAND, J. W., ESQ., JUNR., Newhall Street, Birmingham.

SADLER, SAMUEL, ESQ., The Ferns, Wylde Green, Sutton Coldfield.

SAVAGE, THOMAS, M.D., The Ords, Knowle.

SIMPKIN, MARSHALL & Co., MESSRS., London.

SMALLWOOD, JOSEPH, ESQ., Hazelswood, Leamington.

SMITH, HENRY, ESQ., Beacon Hill, Lichfield.

SOTHERAN, MESSRS., Manchester.

TAIT, LAWSON, ESQ., M.D., Birmingham.

TANGYE, RICHARD, ESQ., J.P., Gilbertstone, Yardley.

TAYLOR, A., ESQ., Midland Educational Co., Birmingham.

THE REPRESENTATIVES OF THE LATE JOHN HANNETT, ESQ.

THORNBY, G., ESQ., Lyndon House, Bickenhill, nr. Birmingham.

TIMMINS, S., ESQ., J.P., Arley, nr. Coventry.

TOWNEND, F. S., ESQ., i, Dunster Court, London, E.G.

TURNER, JAMES, ESQ., Mere House, Erdington.

TURNER, THOMAS ESQ., JUNR., Wylde Green, nr. Birmingham.

UNIVERSITY PUBLIC LIBRARY, Cambridge.

xiv List of Subscribers.

WADE-GERY, W. H., ESQ., Bushmead House, Church End, Willesck-n.

WALKER, REV. S. G., M.A., Gloucester.

WARD, SAMUEL, ESQ., Augustus Road, Edgbaston.

WELLS, JAMES, ESQ., High Street, Birmingham.

WIGGIN, W. W., ESQ., Fore Hill House, nr. King's Norton.

WILLIAMS, A. J., ESQ., 77, Colmore Row, Birmingham.

WOOD, R. H., F.S.A., Penrhos House, Rugby.

WORRALL, G. ESQ., Union Passage, Birmingham.

OAK AT PACKWOOD.

/crest of

FOREST OF ARDEN.— BRITISH AND ROMAN PERIOD.— SAXON PERIOD.—
NORMAN PERIOD. — PRESENT ASPECT.

HUNDRED and two miles from London, on the Oxford
and Birmingham turnpike road, and fourteen miles from the
latter place, stands the quiet old town of Henley-in-Arden,
so called from the district once known as "The Forest
of Arden." It may, however, be questionable whether such
a Forest ever existed in that special sense in which we
speak of Sherwood, Epping, Windsor, and other well-
known forest tracts. As the Ancient Britons and Gauls
employed the term "Arden" of woodland in general, the
district probably derived its designation from its peculiarly woody character.(i)
And this inference is supported by what Caesar says of Britain, at the time
of his invasion, who describes the interior as "one great horrid forest." Strabo,
as will be seen, also favours the same conclusion. Originally, " Arden," perhaps,

*&<??Z3*£

FOREST SCENE.

(i.) The Abbe Expilly, in his Diction-naire Geographique, foret." This name conies from the ancient French term
&c., dated 1761, under the article "Ardenne," says, " Ce Arden, which signified a forest,
nom vient d'Arden, ancien terme Gaulois, qui signifioit

B

2 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

served to designate the whole of Warwickshire, and parts of other counties,
including the central region of England. Berkshire, in this way, obtained its
name from " Berroc," the title of a well-wooded portion of the county. " Arden,"
on the other hand, in the course of time, became limited in its application,
and was restricted to the locality including the towns of Henley and Hampton,
together with the neighbourhood of those places.

In the time of the Romans, this part of Britain formed the province or
country of the Cornavii.(2) Far inland and covered with dense woods, it can
hardly be matter of doubt, that, at the invasion by that warlike people, it was
inhabited by the aborigines of the island, driven by the Belgic colonists(3) from
the coasts. Csesar states these colonists to have introduced agriculture and
other useful arts, and that they were more polished in their manners than the
inhabitants of the interior. He says, " Most of the inland inhabitants do not sow
corn, but live on milk and flesh, and are clad with skins. All the Britons dye
themselves with woad, which occasions a bluish colour, and, thereby, they have
a more terrible appearance in fight. They wear their hair long, and have every
part of their body shaved, except their head and upper lip. They are ignorant
of the use of wool and garments, although, in severe weather, they cover them
selves with the skins of sheep and deer."(*) Their dwellings, according to Strabo,
were formed of branches of trees wrought together, a confused group of these
huts, generally built in the centre of a wood, constituting a town, all the avenues
to which were guarded by mounds of earth, or by trees felled and laid across.
Diodorus Siculus states that their houses were made of reeds or wood, that they
laid up corn in granaries, that they were simple and honest in their dealings,
and that the island abounded with men, subject to various kings and princes.
Dio Cassius, speaking of the more northern nations, says that they tilled no
ground, that their food was game and fruit, that they lived in huts naked, had
wives in common, were inured to hunger, cold, and other hardships, and, when
in the woods, could live on the bark and roots of trees. (4)

Too much stress, however, must not be placed on this description, for it
is notorious that the haughty and polished Romans generally designated the

(2.) The Counties of Warwick, Worcester, Stafford, Salop,
and Chester, by Ptolemy's account, formed the country of
the Cornabii or Cornavii, there is no trace of the name
now, though it appears to have continued in use up to the
decline of the Roman Empire.— Gibson's Camden, ii, 327.

(3.) The Belgae (so called from their warlike habits, Belgse
signifying " Men of Tumult ") came from Gaul about three
centuries before the arrival of Caesar, who, when he had
acquired the sovereignty of the continental and island
Bclgte, brought over a considerable reinforcement of the
former, and enabled the latter to extend their possessions
into the interior regions of the country.— Whittaker's
History of the Britons, 64, 65.

(4.) Whittaker says there was no great difference between
the real Belgae and the real Britons on the arrival of the
Romans. They constructed their edifices in the same
manner, used the same pieces of brass or iron for money,
painted their bodies, and threw off their clothes in the
hour of battle. Both wore their hair alike, and prosecuted
their wars on the same principles. In iall great features
of national character they agreed, and several of the latter
concurred with the former in attention to agriculture, and
in wearing garments of woollen, the only difference being
that the commerce of the country rested in the hands of
the Belgae.— History of the Britons, 84, 85.

(•) Commentaries, bk. v, s. 14.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 3

nations they conquered as barbarians; and it is more than probable they had
little opportunity of gaining correct information of the domestic habits of the
Britons. Although the dwellers in this district of Arden may have been as
little advanced as any of the tribes(5) of the island, still they were acquainted
with many arts, which, by the Roman writers' own showing, prove that they
were not the ignorant barbarians their invaders wished the world to believe.
That they had the mechanical genius to construct chariots and train horses in
harness Caesar himself testifies, (*) for he says, "they drive about in all directions,
throw their weapons, break the ranks of the enemy, leap from their chariots, and
engage on foot. They retreat and advance, and are so expert as to check their
horses at full speed, and to manage and turn them in an instant." These
charioteers are stated to have numbered four thousand on one occasion. (6) Besides
these they had a well-trained cavalry, but their principal strength lay in their
infantry, who fought with darts, large swords, and short targets. (f) They had
bits, made of ivory, and were found to be possessed of bracelets, vessels of
amber and glass, agates, pearls, and abundance of tin. (7) They navigated in barks,
the keels and ribs of which were formed of light materials, the other parts
being made of wicker, and covered with the hides of oxen.

The Romans, from their conquests, were well qualified to judge of popula
tion, and we have the testimony of Caesar that "the number of people was
countless, their buildings exceedingly numerous, and the number of their cattle
great,"(J) a statement which shows that the Britons had made considerable progress
in the arts favourable to life. Though some of these, such as ship building,
and the employment of marl as a manure for land, may have been introduced
by the Belgic settlers on the coasts, still the construction of chariots, and the
training of horses for these and for their cavalry must be attributed to native
ingenuity and skill. They possessed, likewise, the softening influences of poetry
and music; for besides the Druids, (8) they had their bards, who sung in heroic
measures the deeds of their gods and heroes, accompanied with the sweet notes
of the lyre.(||)

To these testimonies to the comparative civilization of the Ancient Britons
must be added their religion, which, organized and regulated as it was, if we
are to believe the statements of Caesar and others on the subject, is no mean

(5.) Britain when first known to the Romans, was divided (8.) DRUID. A name derived from the word Daru in the

into seventeen independent states on the south of the British and Celtic language, equivalent to Drus in Greek,

Tyne, and thirteen to the north of that river.— Pomp. and signifying an oak, beneath the shade of which they

Melius, bk. iii. celebrated their worship.

(6.) "Their strength lies in their infantry; but some (t) Commentaries, iv, 33. They are said to have had six

tribes fight in chariots. The more noble acts as driver, varieties of wheel carriages,

and his retainers are combatants."-7rtwYws' Life of (+) Richard Oy cirencester, i, 3.
Agrlcola, 12.

({) Ccesar, v, 12.

(7.) Tacitus says, "Britain produces gold, silver, and

other minerals, the profits of our victory."— Ibid, 12. (|l) Richard of Cirencester, i, 4.

4 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

evidence of their advancement in humanizing attainments. Their worship,
superstitious as it may have been, can scarcely be regarded as the sign of a
people in the depths of ignorance and degradation. Their Priests were persons
of no slight and superficial cultivation : these, the Druids, had the management
of things sacred, conducted the public and private sacrifices, and interpreted all
religious matters. They had also great authority in civil affairs, decided all
controversies, arbitrating in disputes relative to inheritance or boundaries of
lands, decreeing rewards and punishments, and instructing the youth, particularly
those belonging to the chief families. They used written characters in most of
their public and private matters; but in the preparation of youth intended for
the priesthood, they taught them to commit to memory the doctrines commu
nicated to them. This they did for two reasons; first, that they might be kept
secret from the mass of the people; and, secondly, that their disciples might, by
practice of this kind, find it easy to remember transactions of which they were
hereafter to be the historians. They inculcated, too, the principle that souls do
not become extinct, and imparted to youth knowledge of the stars, their motion,
the extent of the world and the earth, the nature of things, and the power and
majesty of the gods.(*)

Like other nations, the Britons were idolaters; they are said to have offered
human sacrifices, and to have attributed divine virtues to the mistletoe. The
Druids, it is certain, esteemed nothing more sacred than the mistletoe, and the
tree on which it grew, if an oak. They particularly delighted in groves of oak,
many of which were consecrated to their worship, and they performed no sacred
rite without the branches of that tree. (9) But that they sacrificed their criminals,
or the captives taken in battle, is not sufficiently certified to be implicitly
believed. Taking all these circumstances into account, it is difficult to suppose
that a people so ingenious, and with such knowledge and laws as they are thus
reported to have possessed, would be living in dwellings of the primitive character
of those depicted by the Roman writers, or that they would be without clothing
in a climate like Britain, a country described by themselves as having days in
winter of only six hours' duration. It is, therefore, reasonable to conclude that
the constructions designated "towns," were more secure places of retreat than
their ordinary dwellings, in cases of hostility between the native chiefs and their
retainers, who, previous to the arrival, and after the final departure of the
Romans, were frequently engaged in warfare against each other. To favour this
interpretation, we have Caesar himself stating that the Britons, on being repulsed

(9.) The mistletoe is rarely to be found (growing on the thither two white bulls. The priest, clothed in white,

»k, but generally on apple and crab trees: In Packwood ascended the tree, cut off the mistletoe with a golden bill,

garden and other neighbouring localities, it grows in and received it in a white cloth. The victims were then

at profusion: "The Druids gathered the mistletoe with slain, and the favour of the Deity invoked on the offering."

religious ceremonies, and at particular times. The sacri- —Richard of Cirencester.

fice and the feast being prepared under the tree, they led (.) Casar ^ 4

an

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

by his cavalry, concealed themselves in woods, where they had secured
admirable refuge, prepared beforehand, in case of civil war. This, and others, he
calls fortifications. (*) And again, he relates how when they have fortified the
intricate woods, to avoid the incursion of an enemy, with an entrenchment and
a rampart, they call it a town.(f) The Saxon Chronicle also records that, after a
defeat, the Britons fled to the wood-wastes. A small part of the forest is said
to be left in and near to Packington Park, Bickenhill. There are old roots of
trees under the soil for nearly one hundred acres, and the old Forest Hall nearly
hidden with ancient trees.

If any part of Britain formed the "great horrid forest," described as the
prevailing feature of the interior, this portion of Warwickshire would be
especially included in that phraseology, seeing how well wooded it continues to
be. That the dwellers in this extensive forest tract may have been of a more
primitive character than those nearer to the coast, is probable: Still the general
characteristics of the whole race will apply to them, since they, no doubt, con
tributed their quota in the general levy of chariots, cavalry and foot, in the many
conflicts with the Roman invaders, as well as furnished money, and a portion
of the hostages named as being sent for "from remote places."(J)

The Romans, after ruling Britain for four hundred and seventy years, finally
left the country, A.D. 409. During this period the people who formed the
province of the Cornavii, like the rest of the tribes south of the wall of Severus,
had been reduced to the Roman sway, and brought, by their great roads, into
communication with the other parts of the country. This part was not imme
diately crossed by any great Roman Road, being situate within a triangle formed
by three of them, viz., the Ryknield Street, the Fosse, and the Watling Street,
from which many of the more ancient British roads and trackways led to the
interior.(io) The Ryknield Street intersected the Fosse and Watling Street, one
northward of Birmingham, the other at Stow-on-the-Wold. It was the only
Roman road running through part of this district, and it is to it, and some
supposed British roads, that we shall alone direct attention.

R

THE RYKNIELD STREET

AN partly through, and close on the west side of this district. Entering
the county of Warwick a little north of Birmingham, it proceeded in a

(10.) The Britons maintained a considerable foreign com- employed chariots for war, and undoubtedly for civil
merce, had formed towns or large communities, and purposes. Hence their internal commt

(*) Casar, iv, c. 27. (+) Book v, 9. (*)

6 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

straight line west of Tanworth, Skilts, and Mapleborough Green, by Studley,
to the station or city of Alauna, (Alcester,) and left the county a little south
of Bidford. Stukeley, describing this road north of Birmingham, says, "Either
our maps are wrong, or the Roman road goes very much winding, perhaps to
avoid the great Arduen forest. The name of this forest is left in divers places,
as Henley-in-Arden, &c."(*) He states further, "I find the Rignig Street way
comes from Alcester directly north and south by Moseley, over a heath where
the road appears now very broad ;"(t) and "They call the Rigning Street, the
Hickling Street at this place, (Birmingham,) and likewise Portlane."(+) Some
portions of it still bear the name of the Portway road.

On the right hand side of this road, a few yards from the tenth milestone
from Birmingham, and nearly opposite to an inn called the White Lion, are
some earthworks of great antiquity, designated, by the tradition of the neigh
bourhood, as Roman remains. How far this may accord with the fact, is a
problem for the antiquarian to determine: This much, however, may, with
certainty, be affirmed of them, — that they are of very ancient date. If Roman,
situated, as they are, midway between Birmingham and Alcester, they might
form a small post, the area within the embankment being too inconsiderable
for a permanent fortification or camp. The work consists of an embanked
parallelogram, surrounded by a double moat, or fosse, three sides of which are
clearly defined.(n)

Alauna, (Alcester,) situate close upon the south-west corner of our district,
was, according to Richard of Cirencester, a city of the Duboni,(i2) one of the
tribes forming the province or greater country of the Cornavii. Many remains
of the Romans have been found near this place, such as coins, urns, &c. Two
urns were discovered in 1812, and, a short distance from them, the skeleton
of a man nearly seven feet in length, by whose side was placed a long straight
sword; but, on being removed, it fell to pieces. (||)

Since this time there have been found human skeletons about three feet
from the surface, a few Roman coins in the gardens and fields, and urns have
been dug up, but unfortunately were destroyed by the workmen.

The principal indications, however, of the presence of the Romans in the
district of Arden, are to be found at Harborough Banks, in the parish of Lapworth,

have been free and numerous. It is no surprise, therefore, (n.) The area within the embankment is 264 feet by 155.

after the lapse of so many centuries, marks of such It is most probable, from the double moat, that it formed

Sritisk toads appear even at present to a careful observer, the site of the dwelling place of some powerful chief, in a

traversing the island in every- direction. They differ from very early period of our history.

those made by the Romans, in not being raised or paved, (I2>) The Dobuni, formed of Dobh-buini, and interpreted

straight; but often wind along the tops or the residents on a river, means, I think, the men of the

e hills which lye in their COane.-C0MMM*My VBuey. A11 the other terms applied to them signify low-

of Richard of Cirencester. landers.- IVkittaker't Britons, ,88.

(•) Stukfley's ftin. Bar., 20. (+) Ibid, 21. (») I tin. Cut., 61. (||) Arckanlogia, xvii, 332-3.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN

7

and in a small Post at Beaudesert, where the remains of fortified places are
still clearly defined. To these works some secure means of approach from their
great arterial ways must have existed, and there are still many signs of ancient
roads and trackways, such as the Britons are known to have adopted in close
proximity to them. One of these (portions of which are yet in use) is discernible
from the south of Lonesomeford, through Lapworth Street, by Harborough
Banks, Packwood, and Baddesley, which formerly went, as shown in old maps
through Shirley Street, in a direct line to Birmingham, joining, near that place'
the Ryknield Street. Mutton calls it a Roman road, and describes it as leading
to Stratford-on-Avon. Another came southward by Wootton Wawen, along the

present Edge Lane, commencing near Whitley, and separating the parishes of
Beaudesert and Preston Bagot. From this point, it proceeds in a direct line
to Camp Hill, the Roman Post before named, where it is now broken by inclosure;
but traces remain of its continuance through the fields, where it formerly led
into the road over Liveridge Hill. The road passing through Lapworth Street,
ran, at that place, a short distance westward of the great work now known as
"HARBOROUGH BANKS;" and, a little to the east of the course of this road, in
the parish of Knowle, was found, in the year 1779, an earthen urn, containing
a mass of Roman coins, weighing about fifteen pounds. They were mostly
copper, or of that metal washed with tin or silver, and many of them of the
Emperor Gallienus, his wife Salonina, the younger Tetricus, and other usurpers

8 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

in Britain, during the reign of Gallienus. They were found on an eminence,
which, however, bore no marks of a tumulus.(*) The foregoing plan will show
the situation of these works, and direction of the roads.

HARBOROUGH BANKS

IS within the manor of Brome Hall, in that portion of the hamlet of Kings-
wood, King in the parish of Lapworth. It forms the remains of a Roman
camp, or fortification, of some importance, as the earthworks, which still remain,
from their extent show. The rampart, or circumvallum, which is laid down
in the accompanying map,(i3) incloses an area of about twenty-six acres, the
eastern part sloping down to the brook, whilst the western portion is elevated,
such being the usual situation chosen by the Romans for these defences. (14)
Ccesar states that this kind of fortification formed a line of circumvallation
around the camp, by the construction of an earthen barrier, defended generally
by a ditch, in which stakes sharpened at the top, and hardened by fire, were
driven, being held firm by trampled clay. The rest of the ditch was covered
over with osiers and twigs, to conceal the stakes. Within the inclosure, forage
and corn were provided, according to circumstances. (t)

Nothing of importance has been met with here beyond the spout of an
ewer, discovered some years ago in digging for gravel. This, when melted,
proved to be metal, resembling Prince's metal, a kind of Aurichaleum.(J) A few
miles south eastward of this camp was Ausona, or Avona, (Warwick,) where
the Prefect or Commander of the Dalmatian Horse was posted. (||)

The Roman Post that has been referred to, lies about a mile and a half to
the west of this last, on the right of the turnpike road leading to Birmingham
from Henley-in-Arden. This elevated part retains the name of "Camp Hill,"
and the work from which it acquires this title, is considered, by some antiquaries,
to have been an outpost connected by an ancient road with the former. Its
outline will be best understood by the preceding view and plan. The road already
described as passing along Edge Lane, ran close by it.

After the submission of the Britons to their conquerors, the Romans, fond
of agriculture, induced the several tribes to form themselves into communities,
and thus towns of a better character, and settlements sprang up in various

(13.) An Inclosure Act having- been obtained, these remains (14.) The Romans preferred the plain for their places of

•re being destroyed, and by the time this meets the eye defence, for the convenience of rivers, and possessing con-

of the reader, little trace will be left of this interesting fidence in the art of war, they were the more indifferent

work of an ancient people. in regard to the natural advantages. —Archirolagla, v. 53.

(•) Arcktfologia, vii, 413. (+) Ctesar, vii, 73, 74. (i) Thomas's Dugdale. (||) Gibson's I a in Jen.

HARBOROUGH BANKS.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

j i -1 / \ x — r"~> «••"«. viuiiiii» men

and broils (15) and the attacks of the Piets and the Saxon, the
country relapsed mto much of its former state. The Saxons, who spread the
selves over the whole of Britain, destroyed great numbers of the towns aM
waste the laud, and, according to Gildas, "In the streets lay the tops rf 'lofty

1. CAMP. 2. DITCH. 3. ROAD.

towers, stones of high walls, and human bodies covered with blood, with no
chance of being buried, save in the ruins of the houses, or in the ravening bodies
of wild beasts and birds. The living fled to the mountains, to the thickly wooded
forests, and to the rocks of the seas."(*)

Under the Saxon Heptarchy, this part of Britain formed a portion of the
kingdom of Mercia;(i6) but these adventurers, soon after subduing the natives,

(15.) Tacitus, speaking of the disposition of the natives, counties of Chester, Derby, Nottingham, Lincoln, Salop,
observes, "that they were divided by factions and ani- Stafford, Leicester, Rutland, Northampton, Huntingdon,
mosities among their chieftains," even in the time of the Hereford, Worcester, Warwick, Gloucester. Oxford, Buck-
Roman occupation."— Life of Agricola, bk. xii. ingham, and parts of Hertford and Bedford.

(16.) The Anglo Saxon kingdom of Mercia included the * Cildus, s. 24, 25.

C

TO THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

were in constant tumult and quarrel amongst themselves, and turned their
weapons against each other: Hence new disorders arose. To these elements of
strife, the inroads of the Northmen and Danes added further sources of disturb
ance; and this part of the kingdom seems to have suffered some of the calamities
of war, though not in so great a degree as the more exposed parts on the
eastern coasts; for we find it recorded, A.D. 1016, that Canute, with his army,
went into Warwickshire, during the mid-winter's tide, and ravaged, and burned,
and slew all that they could come at.(*)

Throughout these successive desolations, the thickly wooded district of Arden
would, from its peculiar features, escape many of the more pressing calamities
of those early days, when rapine and plunder prevailed along the seaboard of
the island, — especially along its eastern shores. Forsaking, therefore, further
reference to these ancient distractions, we may remark next, in relation to this
district of Arden, that the Romans, who were not great lovers of the chase,
during their occupation of the island, left the woodland parts of the country in
pretty much the same state in which they found them. The Saxons, however,
hunters from their childhood, instituted a new order of things with respect to
the forest tracts of ancient Britain. Ardent followers of the chase, they speedily
made inclosures of the more woody districts; and appropriated, by well-defined
boundaries, to the gratification of their passion for hunting, the primitive forests
of the country of which they had become possessed. Indeed, hunting, with them,
was the preparatory school for warlike achievement. The patience, courage,
power of endurance, and address, requisite to the reputation of a skilful hunter,
were attributes equally essential to the renown of the warrior. Accordingly, no
part of the education of a Saxon noble was more carefully attended to, than
proficiency as a hunter, in testimony of which we learn, on the authority of
Asser,(t) that King Alfred, in his youth, was a zealous follower of the chase,
hunting with great assiduity and success; for, says he, skill and good fortune
in this art, as in all others, are among the gifts of God."

A region, therefore, like that of "Arden," would, doubtless, become a
favourite hunting ground of the new possessors. Such lands as were not dis
posed of, were held to belong exclusively to the crown; and in these, secure
from the presence of man, wild animals found a safe retreat. These lands,
abounding in game of various kinds, were called "Forests," and were reserved
to their especial use and gratification by those in authority, who imposed severe
penalties upon all who presumed to encroach upon their pleasures. (17) Any free-

(17. ) A law of Edward, in a volume of the Exchequer, forest laws were scarcely less stringent: Though he

states, " I will that all men do abstain from hunting in allowed bishops, abbots, and thanes to hunt in his woods,

my woods, that my will shall be obeyed under penalty of still the penalty, if a freeman killed one of the king's

life." Edgar, a most popular Anglo Saxon king, was so deer, or struck his forester, was loss of freedom, by being

rigorous in his forest laws, that the thanes murmured as reduced to a penal serf,
well as the lower husbandmen, who had been accustomed

to use the woods for pasturage and boscage. Canute's ('} Angl° Saxon Ckronicle- <+> Life of Alfred.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

ii

holder, however, during the Saxon rule, had full liberty of sporting,— to start,
pursue, and kill any game upon his own lands, providing he abstained from
trespassing on the King's Forests. Great part of the district we are describing,
appears to have been early parcelled out among the Thanes, or leading men,'
since little of it belonged to the king at the taking of Domesday. A portion
of this, it may be inferred, would, at an earlier period, have been appropriated
by the owners, to the preservation of game, and the enjoyment of those field
sports, to which they were passionately addicted. Although the Saxons were
great destroyers of the strongholds which the Britons had received from the
Romans, and built very few others, still we may reasonably conclude, that on
their possessions here many of them would erect abodes of some extent where
with their retainers, they could more readily indulge in the pleasures of the
chase.

There is, consequently, but little token of Saxon rule in this district, as
few castles wrere built in their time, and but few grants, by charter, occurred
before the Norman invasion. Lapworth was, however, given to the Bishopric
of Worcester, by Kenulph, King of Mercia, in the time of Danebert, the ninth
Bishop of that See, and so continued till the time of King Canute the Dane,
when the then Bishop granted the village to Hearluvimis, as a reward for
attending him on a special embassy into Saxony. The absence here of tumuli,
or barrows, their usual modes of sepulture, so common in some counties, tends
to show that no great battle took place within its area, and that none of their
magnates had residence therein. The probability is that the whole of this
district was, for a long period, kept strictly in a forest state, for the preservation
of game and the amusement of the great landed proprietors, the principal of
whom, before the Conquest, were the Earl of Mercia, and the Thanes Baldwin,
Leuvinus, or Leofric, Wagen, Swain, Godric, &c., all of whom were displaced,
and their possessions bestowed upon the companions of the Conqueror, the
greater portion falling to the Earls of Stafford, Mellent, and Warwick, Nigel
de Albani, the progenitor of the de Mowbrays, and Hugh de Grentemaisnill.
The Saxons, nevertheless, during the period of their occupancy, introduced,
and practised, agriculture, and the kindred arts; and at the time of the Norman
Conquest, portions of the district, which we may designate "The Forest of
Arden," are described as being under cultivation, although woods sufficiently
extensive still remained to give it a forest appearance. To the partial cultivation
of this tract, we have testimony in Domesday Survey. There we learn that, in
Wootton, were nine ploughlands and twenty-two bordars(iS), having six ploughs,

120 acres, more or less, without any decisive computation. lord with poultry and eggs, and

I2 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

and a wood, two leagues long, and one broad. In Beaudescrt, two ploughlands,
two ploughs, and an enclosure, half a mile square. In Preston, six ploughlands,
arable, two ploughs, and a wood, one mile long, and half a mile broad. In
Lapworth, one ploughland, arable, and a wood, two miles long, and one broad.
In Rmvington, eight ploughlands and nine ploughs, with a wood, a mile and
a half long. In Hampton-in-Ardcn, with its several hamlets, ten ploughlands,
and woods, in extent, three miles long, and three broad. In Solihull, then
called Ulvcrlie, eight ploughlands, and a wood, four miles long, .and half a
mile broad. And, in almost every other parish in the district, there is record
of a proportionate extent of arable and woodland. Besides game, these woods
supported a great number of hogs. In one, four miles long, it is stated there
was keeping for 2,000 hogs. The lands of the Saxon Thanes thus distributed
among the Norman Barons, it was long before the country reached anything
approaching to a settled condition. The change of masters was attended with
much discontent and turbulence on the part of the aboriginal population. Al
though so large a proportion of the native aristocracy had been exterminated at
the battle of Hastings, their memory was cherished by their retainers with a
fond regret, which was, in no wise, diminished by the institution of those forest
laws, which became a constant source of dissatisfaction and strife through suc
ceeding generations.

Under the Conqueror, the feudal system prevailed in a rigour which was no
mitigation of its intolerable burdens. After the Norman invasion, the whole land
of the kingdom was either in the hands of the crown, or held in fief (19) by the
vassals of the crown : And the property of all the animals of chase was held to
be vested in the crown, whilst no person, without the express license of the
king, was permitted to hunt, as in Saxon times, even upon his own estate. The
Conqueror, who, as the Saxon Chronicle affirms, loved the red deer as if he had
been their father, is alleged to have visited the slaughter of one of these animals
with a heavier penalty than the murder of a human being. It is easy, there
fore, to conceive what an amount of irritation and suffering these forest laws
must have caused in a district, like the one we are describing, abounding in
game.

The new proprietors of the lands, and their tenants, soon began to rebuild,
or to enlarge the old houses, so as to make them secure against aggression. (20)
Various strongholds, in the locality of "Arden," had sprung into existence, during

(19.) The Normans held their lands under what was (20.) A great number of castles were built in Stephen's

called knights' fees, or service. The land in England was days, by the nobles of the realm, either to defend the

divided into upwards of sixty thousand of these fees. confines of their counties from invasions of foreigners, and

For every knight's fee the proprietor had to provide a violence of homelings; or as fortifications to themselves

knight, or soldier, to attend the king in his wars, for forty when they meant, or intended, any inroad or breaking in

days in a year. upon their neighbours.— Holinshed's Chronicle, ii, no.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

»)

the reigns of the early Norman kings. Amongst others, the castle of Beaudesert
was built by Thurstan de Montford; that of Bickenhill, a member of the lord
ship of Hampton-in-Arden, was erected either by Nigel de Albani, or Roger de
Mowbray, and that at Studley, by William de Corbuson; of these' however no
vestige remains. Edifices of equally substantial character here and there arose,

"Such as the moated hall,
With close circumference of wat'ry guard
And pensile bridge, portends! * * *

Such the retreats

Of Britain's ancient nobles! less intent
On rural beauty, and sweet patronage
Of gentle arts, than studious to restrain,
With servile awe, barbarian multitudes;
Or, with confederate force, the regal power
Proudly to control. Hence they, their vassal troops
Assembling, now the fate of empire planned ;
Now o'er defenceless tribes, with wanton rage,
Tyrannic ruled; and, in their castled halls
Secure, with wild excess their revels kept."(*)

The sites of these castles are well known spots in their respective localities.
Nor are abundant evidences of buildings of less note wanting in the same dis
trict. Though now supplanted by modern dwellings, the traces of the moated
inclosure are very common: More especially is this the case at Lapworth, Cod-
barrow, Baddesley, Langdon, and Packwood, where the "watery guard" of the
"Halls" is to be found in pretty much the same state as when first excavated
for the purpose of protection. In the first-named of these parishes, there is also
a moated inclosure on a farm belonging to I/apworth Charity, and another, the
fosse of which is very deep, on the farm called Lapworth Park; but without
any buildings. Others may be found at Hampton-in-Arden, and at Packwood
Glass House; and we have moat-house farms at Studley, Ullenhall, and other
places, as well as park farms at Wootton, Beaudesert, Lapworth, &c.(2i)

The remains of some of the castles of the Norman Barons still in existence
in England, enable us to form an opinion of their extent and strength; but,
of the dwellings of the lesser landowners, and the labouring classes, little is
now known. Britton observes that "the almost unceasing prevalence of internal
wars, combined with the ravages caused by foreign aggression, have swept away
almost every vestige of any domestic edifice, properly so called, which had been
erected during the first thousand years of the Christian era: and in the three

(21.) The evidence of grants of parks or chases is shown warren, which the Norman kings invented to protect them,

in the numerous fences in this county, still called Park by giving the grantee a sole and exclusive power of killing

fences, whereby the landlord claims nine yards of land be- such game so far as his warren extended, on condition of

yoiid the apparent boundary, as his freeboard. A park his preventing other persons,
was an inclosed chase, extending over a man 'sown grounds,

and allowed by a grant from the king. Free warren was (») Edgehill, by Richard Jago, son of Richard Jago, rectoi

a similar franchise for preservation of beasts and fowls of of Beaudesert, anno 1709 to 1741.

I4 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

following centuries, the same rude hand of violence both prevented the erection,
to any extent, of dwelling houses of a permanent character, and also wrought
the destruction of a greater part of such as then chanced to exist. From the
eleventh century, however, till the close of the fourteenth, occasional examples
still remain, though, in themselves, few in number, and perhaps situated in
positions widely distant from one another, from which the general principles
of the Domestic Architecture of those days may be ascertained with tolerable
accuracy."(*)

In this district, as it has been stated, the moated dwelling appears to have
been the general characteristic, one ancient specimen of which is still existent:
This is Baddesley Clinton, the site of a still older dwelling, some parts of the
massive walls of which are built up in the present structure. The engraving
of this old Hall, on a subsequent page, will give the reader an adequate idea
of the exterior of mansions of the period, with gateway, drawbridge, and lofty
mullioned windows. The interior is, at the present day, modified to meet the
requirements of modern times; but there is, fortunately, a document in existence,
by which we can form an opinion of the plan, size, and interior arrangement
of the structures erected by the landed proprietors in Arden, in the fourteenth
centur>r. The plan appears to have been, usually, a parallelogram, with or
without wings. Within the moat, of which mention has been made in connexion
with Lapworth, stood a manor-house, which Sir John Bishopden, knight, built.
In the year 1314, Jth Edward II, it seems that he entered into a contract with
William Hoese, mason, and John de Pesham, of Rowington, to build him a
house of freestone, on his manor of Lapworth, which was to be forty feet long
by eighteen broad within the walls, the end walls and gables to be three and
a half feet in thickness, and those at the back and front two and a half. The
doorway was to be in the middle of the house, and, on each side, a base
chamber, with wardrobes and proper windows and doors; the chambers and
doorway eleven feet in height. On each side of the entry, a stone wall, as high
as the doorway, to which walls two columns of stone to be affixed, on which
the door might be suspended. The doorway to be so constructed that a draw
bridge might be fitted to it. Above the doorway and the two base chambers,
was to be an upper chamber, of the length and width of the house, with two
fireplaces and two wardrobes, and fitting doors and windows. This "chambre
sovereyne" was to be nine feet from the floor to the rafters, whilst a parapet
of stone two and a half feet high, was to be raised above the roof timbers.
The cost of the masonry was to be twenty-five marks, (about 2OO/.,) and the
work completed within one year.(t) As there is no mention of the building of

(•) Briton's Early Domestic Architecture, 6. cost, and to find timber, carpentering, sand, and lime.

.. D ,. n .. . Further details of this hall will be found on a future page.

+ ) Parker's Domestic Architecture, 5. Sir John de Bishop-
den engaged to lead the stone from the quarry at his own

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. ,5

kitchens and offices necessary to such a structure, it is more than probable
that those portions of the old manor-house remained. This, then may be said
to have been the general style of dwelling, standing, in the fourteenth century
within the various moated inclosures at Codbarrow, Ungdon, Packwood, &c.',
the interior area of land within each being nearly the same.

Whilst the forest laws were enforced here, as elsewhere, in all their barbarous
rigour, a power had gradually grown up by the side of the great Barons, destined
to soften considerably the rude exercise of their authority. During the Saxon
and Norman rules, large grants of land were made to the church; and the
clergy shared, with the feudal lords, in the rights and duties of proprietorship.
Forest tracts were vested in them, equally with the laity. With a taste and
judgment, derived from their superior culture, they selected vast possessions in
the most agreeable and fertile situations; and, amid the leafy shade and purling
streams of the localities they had chosen, they built churches, founded religious
houses, and denned the boundaries of parishes. In the not distant city of
Coventry, societies of the Benedictine, Carthusian, and Cistertian Orders respec
tively established themselves; and from these, in due course, branched off minor
corporations of the same class. These severally settled themselves at Wootton
Wawen, Wroxall, Pinley, Studley, Kenwood, and Temple Balsall, within the
limits of "Arden."

From these religious fraternities a certain civilizing influence was constantly
radiating. Themselves sprung from the people, they would, naturally, be imbued
with popular sympathies. This bias towards the "lower orders" would also be
increased by the humanizing spirit of their sacred profession: And holding, as
they were supposed to do, the keys of both kingdoms, they were enabled to
interpose, with considerable effect, on behalf of the subordinate classes of society.
In the Priesthood, the people, at large, found powerful protectors. Bordar,
soccage-tenant, and villein, (2 2) received at their hands a consideration to which
they were strangers from any other quarters. The Church alone dared to resist
and to denounce the encroachments and exactions of the nobility; and from its
growing authority we may date the amelioration of the tyranny and extortion
which had been long practised by the great landed proprietors. The services
due to the landowner became less severe and better defined: Of this we have
a signal evidence, in connexion with the district bordering on that we are
describing-. For it is on record that Thomas de Arden had in Rieton three

o

servants, each holding a yardland and a half, (23) and paying a certain yearly rent

(22.) Soccage-tenants, or Sokemen, were freemen who held (23.) A yardland, the living of a ploughman or yeoman,

land of the king, or Lord of the Soke. By the Saxons was of uncertain quantity; sometimes larger than 01

they were styled "Lesser Thanes," (yeomen,) being free- plough could till, and sometimes so small, that one plough

born, and eligible to honourable service. Villein— a. person could till two.
in absolute slavery, the property of the lord of the soil,
like the cattle upon it.

16 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

in money, ploughing one day in winter each, and one day in Lent; mowing,
raking, making hay, carrying corn, and gathering nuts — at each kind of work
— one day. The cottagers, thirteen in number, besides their rent, worked one
day each, at some of the before-mentioned labours;(*) whilst in Stoneleigh, (which
remained in the hands of the crown, from the Conquest till the time of Henry
II,) the inferior tenants paid a common fine, and at the general reap in harvest,
called Bederipe, the sokemen, with their tenants, were summoned to reap the
lord's corn, the sokemen to ride up and down on horseback with wands to see
that they worked well, and to amerce those in the king's court that made
default, or laboured idly.(t) The freeholders and tenants of Peter de Montfort,
7 Edward I, had also similar privileges in Wellesbourne Mountfort, and common
in Kingswood, with pannage for their hogs and certain proportions of wood
for fuel.(J)

Whether, or no, any Forest of Arden, properly so called, ever did exist,
certain, it is, that in the list of Forests in England, in the time of Queen
Elizabeth, given by the celebrated antiquary, Sir William Spelman, no mention
of Arden or any other forest in Warwickshire, is found. Considerable portions
of the locality were, no doubt emparked and enforested, as there are many
notices, in ancient deeds, of appointment, by proprietors of lands, of Foresters. (24)
We find, also, that Peter de Wulwardinton, (now Wolverton,) 18 Henry III.,
gave one mark fine to the king, for coursing in the Forest.(||) Evidence exists,
in Camden and Leland, of the state of the country in the time of Henry VIII.
The former says, "Let us take a view of the woodland which lies north of the
Avon, occupying a larger extent, being the most part covered with woods, though
not without pastures, corn fields, and iron mines. As it is at present called the
Woodland, so it had anciently the much older name of Arden, but as I take it
to the same purport, for Arden seems to have signified a forest to the Ancient
Britons and Gauls."(§) Leland remarks "that the moaste parte of Waiwykshire
that stondithe on the lefte banke of Avon, is called Arden, and this countrye is
not so plentifull of corne, but of grasse and woode."(1[) At this time, however,
the forest laws, still severe and terrible in their penalties, were in full force, and
so continued, for many years after the reign of Henry VIII. His daughter,
Queen Elizabeth, is said to have been fond of Hunting the Stag, and brought
down many by the bow, in which she was skilled. This was also one of the
principal amusements of the great landed proprietors of those days.(25) Drayton,

(24.) William de Hishopden, temp. Richard I, was enfeoffcd Clinton. In the register ol Stoneleigh Abbey, it appears,

of certain lands by his wife's father, Henry de Mountfort, that the monks were to have Estovers in the outwoods by

to be held on certain conditions by appointment of his the oversight of the Foresters.— See Dvgdnle.

and the fourth part of a wood at Baddesley 2«, Field sports> fishil,Ri shooting> hunting> WCre the

•) DugdalS, U'aneictotiK. p. 33. (+) /bid p. ,„. ({) Camden,s Britannia, by Gough, ii, 329.

:> Ibid. p. 410. (||) Ibid, p. 467. (it) Leland's Itinerary.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. l?

a native of this county, gives a quaint but vivid descriptive picture of the Forest n
which, though long, is nevertheless, from its apt illustration of our subject
deserving of quotation:

"Muse! first of Arden tell, whose footsteps(f) yet are found
In her rough woodlands more than any other ground?
That mighty ARDEN held even in her height of pride,
Her one hand touching Trent, the other, Severn's side.

The very sound of these the wood nymphs doth awake;
When thus of her own self the ancient forest spake :

' My many goodly sites when first I came to show,
Here open'd I the way to mine overthrow;
For when the world found out the fitness of my soil,
The gripple wretch began immediately to spoil
My tall and goodly woods, and did my grounds inclose,
By which, in little time, my bounds I came to lose.

When Britain first her fields with villages had fill'd,
Her people wexing still, and wanting where to build,
They oft dislodg'd the hart, and set their houses where
He in the broom and brakes had long time made his leyre.
Of all the forests here within this mighty isle,
If those old Britons then me sovereign did instile,
I needs must be the greatest; for greatness 'tis alone
That gives our kind the place; else were there many a one
For pleasantness of shade that far doth me excel.
But of our forest's kind the quality to tell,
We equally partake with woodland as with plain,
Alike with hill and dale; and every day maintain
The sundry kinds of beasts upon our copious wastes,
That men for profit breed, as well as those of chase."

After describing the various birds and beasts of chase abounding therein,
and a description of a stag hunt in Arden, he proceeds to a disquisition on the
medicinal herbs, and the course of rivers of the immediate country, for which
we must refer the reader to the work itself.

The sixteenth century was a time of progression in England; more land
was taken into cultivation, and the material prosperity of the people promoted.
The greater security afforded by the laws rendered the defensive appliances of
the moat and drawbridge no longer necessary, or such situations desirable. Many
of the old halls were abandoned, and other buildings erected, in more beautiful
and healthy situations. Hence a new class of lords' or manor-houses arose on

delight of every one, and although the forest laws were failed submitted, when no other choice was left. They did

terrible, they served only to enhance the excitement b3T not always submit, as the old northern poem shows of

danger. Then, as now, no English peasant could be con- Adam Bell, Clym of the C lough, and William of Cloudislcr,

vinced that there was any moral crime in appropriating with its most immoral moral; yet, I suppose, there was

the wild game. It was an offence against statute law, but never pedant who could resist the spell of those ringing

no offence against natural law; and it was rather a trial lines, or refuse with all his heart to wish the rogues

of skill between the noble who sought to monopolize a success, and confusion to the honest men.— Ftvudr's

right which seemed to be common to all, and those who England, temp. Henry VIII.
would succeed, if thev could, in securing their own share

of it. The Robin Hood ballads reflect the popular feeling, (*) Poly-olbion, written, 1612-1622

and breathe the wann, genial spirit of the old greenwood Referring to several towns, such as Henley-iii-Ardcn,

adventurers. If deer stealing was a sin, it was more than ]ptoll.in.Ardeii, Weston- in -Arden, &c.

compensated by the risk of the penalty to which those who

i8 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

hill sides or gentle slopes, (26) destined, in their turn, to be again deserted by the
Lord, and appropriated to the Steward, or to the principal farmer on the estate.
The latter, like his Lord, was given to hospitality ; and partook, freely, himself,
of the produce of the land; nor was the labourer, though badly lodged, less well
fed and cared for. (2 7)

We have already alluded to the large proportion of lands once devoted to
woods in this district, but, at the present period, these extensive tracts of forest
ground have either altogether disappeared, or dwindled, comparatively, to the
dimensions of plantation patches. It is, therefore, highly probable that the
features of this district were, in the time of Elizabeth, advancing to the state in
which they are now, in respect to covert and champaign; that is to say, well
wooded at its northern and southern extremities, with a sterile heath, moor, or
chase, four or five miles broad, and extending in length eastward of Knowle to
Forshaw Heath, on the west. The dwellers in the district were then thinly
scattered, in comparison with more open and cultivated countries, and the towns,
villages, and hamlets, spoken of in the following pages, were found, A.D. 1565,
to contain only 1051 families, (*) which, taken at five in each household, would
make a population of 5255, not equal to the numbers in Solihull and Wootton
Wawen, at the present time.

In this district, we may, without any very large drafts upon imagination,
suppose Shakespeare to have studied the originals of many of his most exquisite
descriptions of rural scenery; for he was, at the time, passing through the
impressional period of boyhood. The beautifully wooded neighbourhood of
Henley-in-Arden, within easy reach of that Stratford on which his fame has
conferred an enduring celebrity, would furnish him with an ample store of
images, from which in after years to pen those word pictures which yet
vividly represent the prevailing characteristics of this part of Warwickshire.
His frequent allusions to forest-shades, to babbling brooks, and flowery meads,
and leafy grove, and sheltered dell, accurately correspond to the present aspect
of the locality in question. In how many spots may still be seen

"An oak, whose antique root peeps out
Upon the brook that brawls along the wood!"

Such as was its general appearance in the time of the "poet of all hearts, ages,
and climes," so is it now, with the exception that human industry has since

(26.) Hillficld Hall, Solihull, a residence of the Hawes called their best October "Mad dog," "Angels' food,"

and Greswoldes, is a specimen of this class. See illustra- "Dragons' milk,," "Merry-go-down," and other names.

Uon and description in the notes on that parish. Other A Spanish ambassador remarked "These English have

remains of early manor-houses will be found described in their houses made of sticks and dirt; but they fare

•ubsequent pages. commonly so well as the king."

(27.) The English farmers were choice in their beer; they (•) Harleian MSS., No. 618.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 19

done much towards fertilizing the once "waste and solitary places." Where,
formerly, were unfruitful tracts, there are now abundant crops of grain; and,
in the naturally more productive parts at each extremity of the district,
owners and occupiers have united to effect improvements which will bear com
parison with any similar efforts in other counties. Commercial enterprise has,
too, effected its changes in the district of Arden. Canals and railways have
been constructed, facilitating transit and promoting intercourse. Where, here
tofore, stood the moated inclosure and crenellated castle, we now find the
peaceful security of the farm-house and premises; where, once, the mailed
warrior only trod, we now behold none but images of tranquil confidence;
where, formerly, were wild solitudes, sacred to the rude sports and unbridled
license of the few, we have now the rich promise of cultivated tracts, dedicated
to the support and enjoyment of the many.

SOUTH ENTRANCE TO HENLEY-IN-ARDEN.

first ©as.

RESUMING the Traveller to have reached the old hostelry
of the Swan, at Henley-in-Arden, it will now be desirable
to commence a description of that town, to enter upon an
inspection of its chapel, to inquire of its other objects of
interest, and then to visit the villages, &c., in the district
lying south of it, viz., Wootton Wawen, Edstone, Bearley,
Aston Cantlow, I/ittle Alne, and Shelfield.

HENLEY-IN-ARDEN,

A TOWNSHIP in the parish of Wootton Wawen, is a small market town
-^- on the London, Oxford, and Birmingham road, 102 miles from the first
named, and fourteen from the last-mentioned place. The approach, from the
south, is by a gentle ascent, on which stand Arden House, built by the late
T. J. P. Burman, Esq., and Hurst House, erected by Major Noble, two neat
outlying residences.

The town does not appear to have been built before the time that Thurstane
de Montfort established a market at his castle of Beaudesert, temp. Stephen, on
the other side of the brook dividing Henley from that parish ; and it is supposed
that the first habitations arose for the accommodation of persons resorting thither;

22 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

though, by others, from its name, being composed of the British word HEN, and
LEY a place, it is considered to have had a much earlier foundation. It is not
named in Domesday Book, but was, no doubt, accounted for in the lands of
the parish of Wootton, granted at the Conquest to one of the Barons of Stafford.
The first mention of Henley in any document is temp. Henry II, in the grant
of a mill, by Henry de Montfort, to the monks of Wootton, and, soon after in
a grant by Henry III, A.D. 1220, to Peter de Montfort, of a weekly market on
Monday, and a yearly fair for two days, on the even and day of St. Giles.
This was a removal of the market from Beaudesert Castle, for greater conve
nience; or a revival of that which had declined.(i) That the town had then
become of some importance, may be inferred from its producing, in the eleventh
of the same reign, xv/. rent, the toll and echeats being valued at five marks;
but it declined again after the battle of Evesham.

On August 6th, 1266, was fought the battle of Evesham, in which the
above Peter de Montfort took part with his namesake, the Earl of Leicester
(no relation), and was there, as also the Earl, slain, and his lands seized by
the Crown. His son, another Peter, was taken prisoner at the battle, but after
wards found favour with the King, and his lands were restored to him. After
this battle the town declined, having, according to Dugdale, been burnt down,
but there is no certain data as to the time of this event. The great probability
is that it was the work of the soldiery who accompanied the King and Prince
Edward to the siege of Kenilworth, where the son of Leicester had sheltered
himself, Henley being in the direct line of march, and the property of one of
the rebel barons, who, it is stated, were pursued with great vigour, their
castles, &c., taken and demolished. Or it may have arisen from the license
prevalent in those barbarous ages when "bands of soldiery frequently issued on pre
dator)' excursions, during which they spread the miseries of fire and the sword
with an unsparing hand." Be this as it may, more peaceful times came, enabling
owners and dependents to re-build; the town rose from its ashes, and was
gradually restored to its former prosperity. In I3th Edward I. the De Montforts
had in Henley liberties of market, (*) gallows, assize of bread, beer, and other
privileges, and in the 24th of the same reign the town is called "Burgus de
Henley," having then sixty-nine burgesses, who paid ^7 i8s lod rent, a park,
and two water mills, pleas and perquisites of court to the amount of ^i i8s,

(i.) Markets and fairs were exposed to considerable article of consumption, &c., was retailed by the Merchants

danger in early times, from open ravine or covert but themselves. This was conducted principally upon stalls,

determinate injustice. By a law of William I, it was paying a duty to the Lord of the Fair. "All sales were

decreed that all fairs and markets should be kept "in prohibited except in boroughs and markets, and these

fortified cities, town, or castles," manors, who had, by their paid a toll to the King or to the I,ord, who had an

offices, jurisdiction in all matters of dispute (Stat. Edward assignment of them by Charter."— Madox's Exchequer, p.

I., c. 2.) The nobility and others laid up their year's pro- 530.

visions and other necessaries at these fairs, where every (•) Rot. Hundredorum, ii. 228.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. ^

held of Edmund, Baron of Stafford, by the service of three shillings, or one
pair of scarlet hose. The inhabitants, icth Edward III., obtained from the
king a license, which shows that the market had again become well frequented.
This license allowed them to toll all corn and commodities brought to market
for sale, for the space of three years, the amount to be employed in paving the
streets, which not being accomplished, they obtained another patent, extending
the original term another three years; but as this enlargement did not suffice
to complete the work, a further extension of five years was obtained in 6th
Richard II. In igth Edward II. (1326) the town is described in a charter as
consisting of "one messuage, called Park's Shepene, three water mills, three
acres of wood within the great park, ten pounds and five shillings of rent and
of service, to be received from all and singular the burgesses, tenants of the
borough of Henleye, with the tolls and liberties relating to the said borough,"(*)
the witnesses being Sir John de Bishopesdone, Lapworth, and Sir Roger de
Aillesbury, Edstone, knights, and others.

Two years later (1328) there happened a remarkable event at a place named
Henley, the locality of which has never been satisfactorily settled, and is dis
puted by antiquarians as to the town in which it occurred. In October of this
year Robert de Holland, the faithless servant and follower of Thomas de Lancaster,
is said to have been seized by a mob, and put to death in the Park at Henley,
in revenge for betraying his master. His head was cut off by Sir Thomas
Wither, and sent first to Henry, Earl of Lancaster, and then to Waltham Cross,
his body being sent to Preston to be buried in the Church of the Grey Friars.
Kuerdon, an antiquary of repute, who wrote in the "Antiquities of Lancashire,"
says that Robert de Holland was taken at Henley-on-Thames. This statement
appears also in the "Memorials of the parish of Prestwich," and in the "Coucher
Book of Whalley," published by the Chetham Society, and appears to have been
well-known. It is repeated in Burns's History of Henley-on-Thames, but the
author writes that it was not at that town the event took place, but that it was
probably at a manor named Henley or Hanlegh, in Surrey, belonging to Edward
III., sometimes called Henley Regis, and that it was in the park there that
Robert de Holland was taken and beheaded in 1328, he having involved himself
in the insurrection of his patron, Thomas, Earl of Lancaster.

This was a time of great turbulence, beginning 1326, on the death of Edward
II., and occasioned by the intrigues of the Queen Mother with Mortimer, her
favourite, who had retired to Nottingham Castle for safety. Engaged in com
bating them were the Earls of Lancaster, Kent, and Norfolk, all princes of the
blood, Lancaster being the guardian of the young king, Edward III. Of the

(*) Cart. Cott., xxvii. 137.

*** \

v-

"r-

24 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

locality of the beheading, before referred to, there is, as stated, no authentic
notice to be relied upon, but from circumstances it may have taken place at
Henley-in-Arden. It is stated that the execution took place in the park at
Henley, and, as will be seen above, a park existed here in the time of Edward
I., and in 1326 it is described as the "Great Park." Further, as this Henley is
in closer neighbourhood of Nottingham, where Mortimer and the Queen had taken
refuge, the assembly of large bodies in the centre of the kingdom is more likely
than any place in Surrey. Admitting that these are slight proofs, they may be
taken as equally or more authentic evidence adduced for the town last-named.
We now come to more reliable evidence of the rise and progress of the town.
A charter was granted, 2yth Henry VI., to Ralph Boteler (grandson of William,
first Lord Boteler, of Oversley and Wemme), created, by the same monarch,
Baron Sudeley, the title becoming extinct at his death, 2nd of May, 1449, in
the 27th Henry VI. The original charter, with the great seal attached, and in
good preservation, is in the hands of the High Bailiff. After reciting the liberties
and franchises enjoyed by former lords, it confirms to the said Ralph and his
heirs the following privileges, viz.: — That no sheriff, under-sheriff, coroner,
bailiff, or other minister of the King, or his heirs, shall enter into the town and
manor of Henley-in-Arden, or the precincts of the same, to do or execute any
thing there in anywise, nor intermeddle with aught within the same, unless in
default of the said Ralph. That he, the aforesaid Ralph, and his heirs, have
infangthef and outfangthef(2) and all chattels of felons, fugitives, or persons in
anywise condemned or put in exigence for treason or felony, and the chattels of
outlaws, chattels of felons, of themselves, chattels confiscated or forfeited of all
the tenants, resiants, and non-resiants, and of others resiant within the town and
manor; so that if any one of them ought to lose his life or limb for his offence,
or shall flee and not willing to stand his trial, it shall be lawful for the said
Ralph and his heirs, or their ministers, to seize those chattels, and apply them
to their own proper use. That all tenants of the same Ralph and his heirs, and
all others who hereafter may be resiant there, shall for ever be quit of toll or
tollage, stallage, frontage, weighage, murage, keyage, and cheminage, in all
places, whether by land or water, throughout the whole realm of England, and
elsewhere, within the King's dominion and power. That no buyer or purveyor
for the royal household take any goods from the said Ralph, his heirs, and
tenants, resiant or non-resiant in the town and manor, or precincts of the same,
without their will. That the aforesaid Ralph have grant of two fairs within the
town, viz., one to be held on Tuesday in the week of Pentecost and two
following days, and the other on the day and feast of St. Luke the Evangelist,

.) iNFAM.Ti.KFAXnOvTFANGRKF. Liberties granted to ^0^ them within their fee.
Lords of Manors to judge any thief taken or brought

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 25

and the two following days, with all and singular the things to such fairs
appertaining, so that the same be not to the nuisance of neighbouring fairs.—
Signed Rous, and witnessed by the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishops 'of
Carlisle and Chichester, the Dukes of Buckingham and Suffolk, Earls of Salis
bury and Devon, Sir Richard Cromwell, James Tenys, and Lord de Saye. (See
full translation in Appendix.)

Blackstone says:— " The King's grants are matter of public record, and
whether of lands, honours, liberties, franchises, or ought beside, are contained
in charters, or letters patent, that is, open letters (literae patentes) so-called, be
cause they are not sealed up, but exposed to open view, with the great seal
pendant at the bottom, and are generally directed or addressed by the King to
all his subjects at large." This statement of Blackstone is confirmed by the
terms of the Henley charter, which is addressed to the "Archbishops, bishops,
abbots, friars, dukes, earls, lords," &c., of the realm, and written on one sheet
of parchment, with the great seal attached suspended at the bottom. This seal,
however, is not the great seal of Henry VI., but the one used in the reign of
Henry IV., as engraved in Knight's "Old England," vol. i, p. 309, number 1152.

The above Sir Ralph Boteler, temp. Henry VI., founded a Guild in the
Chapel of St. John (erected temporc Edward III.), for four priests to pray for the
founder's soul. A Hospital was built also in 26th of the same reign for the
relief of poor people and strangers, most likely by the same party, as an adjunct
to the Guild, a very common occurrence as regards monasteries, guilds, &c. It
is not an extravagant conjecture to state that the remarkable Cross, the remains
of which are still standing in the Market-place, was erected about the same time
and by the same party. Of the nature of the governing body for the affairs of
the town before this period there is little to testify, but there can be little doubt
that it was, in early times, of a somewhat more despotic character than it after
wards became, as the charter granted the whole, administration to the said Ralph,
his heirs, bailiffs, and ministers within the town and manor, and the precincts
thereof. Sir Edward Coke states that towns there were in number which were
neither cities nor boroughs, some of which had the privileges of markets, and
others not, but that both were equally towns in law; and that one of the principal
inhabitants was annually appointed to preside over the resj, being called the
headborough or other name— in some parts borsholder, or boroughsealder, being
supposed the discretest man in the borough or tithing. It is, therefore, evident
that some such administration as this of municipal affairs prevailed then at
Henley. If so the government of the town as it now exists has been the same
from a very early period, perhaps from the time of the bailiffs and ministers
before referred to, as is shown by authentic memoranda yet extant.

This is evident from the Henley papers collected by Sir Symon Archer,
of Umberslade (obiit. 1662), (now in the Shakespeare Birthplace Library, Strat-

E

26 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

ford-on-Avon,) relative to the Court Leet, of the Lords of the Manor, from
which the following regulations, etc., are extracted:—

"4 October, 1598. — All bakers shall make good and noisome Bread for
man's body, and kepe the assise according to the statute. All alehouse-keepers
shall "make good and holsome drincke both ale and beere and to sell the same
newe for iijd- ob. the gallon and stale for iiijd-, and not to make deniall of the
same upon pain of iij8- iiijd-" All butchers "to kill good and holsome meate
for man's body according to the statute, and also every Butcher within this
libertie shall Bayte every Bull with collar and chaine that they shall kyll after
St. Luke's tyde, or else to forfeit for every default vjs- viijd-"

No one above 12 to "shute in peece fowling pece Birding pece or suchlike,"
or shall "forfeit his pece and alsoe tenne poundes unto the lord of the manner."

Not to abuse the bailiff — penalty of 4<D/-, or keep any mastyff dogg
vnmusseled — fine 3/4d, or buy wood of hedge tearers or stealers of wood (3/4d.
and 24 hours imprisonment.)

22 Oct., 1606. — None of the inhabitants to "take in to dwell and inhabit
within any parte of his dwellinge howese any bastard or great belied womanne
uppon paine of vli."

25 Oct., 1609. — None shall sell corne in the markeett before the Bell dothe
ring.

21 Oct., 1618. — "We present Elizabeth Smith the wife of Thomas Smith
cutler for a common scolde and troubleth the Kinges Court light this present
xxj of October 1618. Ideo subeat penam lavandi super le cooking stool." (See
Appendix.)

After the death of Sir Ralph Boteler, the manor of Henley passed into the
possession of Sir John Norbury, knight, and William Belknap, Esq., his cousins
and heirs, of whom it was afterwards purchased by Edward IV. But before
this, viz., 25th Henry VI., whether held of the King or under Sir Ralph Boteler,
does not appear, a Margaret Catesby had several fee-farm rents of customary
tenants. In a paper entitled "Rental of Margaret Catesby, renewed on the
feast of St. Michael, 1446" (now in the Record Office), each tenant is named,
together with the nature of the payments for land, etc., very particularly described,
sums of from one penny to eight shillings being enumerated. In another paper
in the same office, "Rental renewed on the morrow after Michaelmas day, 3rd
Edward IV.," similar sums are enumerated in connection with the names of
tenants recited in the former paper. Some of the names of tenants and desig
nation of the lands are singular. Out of the Catesby rents there were paid to
the Lord of Henley, by the hands of the tenants, 2s. 8d., and to the same lord
for the tenement which belonged to Shenwgey, is. That the Catesbys were
long connected with Henley is shown from an extract from the State Papers, (*)

(•) Calendar Domestica Addenda, 1577.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 2;

January i2th, 1566.— "Rydyng to Thomas Catesby, I desire you to deliver to
my friend, Mr. Clarke, my lease of Henley-in-Arden Park, Co. Warwick, as also
his own writing of annuity, and the obligation belonging to the same."(*)

In 2nd Richard III, that monarch granted to "Thomas Cookesey Squier,
th' office of Steward of o'r lordship of Henley-in-Ardern w'tin cure Countie of
Warr', during his lif' w't the fees and wages of Cs. of th' issues &c. of the
said lordship. Also th' office of master of the game of the p'kes of Henley
during his life with the wages and fees accustomed."(t) Edmund Brereton was
bailiff of Henley and Beaudesert, 23rd and 24th Henry VII, and his Accounts
show sums received, in that year, for

£. s. d.

Rents of assize of the free tenants - - - 8 19 8
Rents and farms outside the town - - - 17 6 6

Sale of wood -

Perquisites of the Court i 15 o

Six pounds, usually paid for the farming of the herbage of the Little Park was
not included in the account "because it is retained in the king's hand for the
support of the king's colts and mares there, called the stud."(+) The manor
continued vested in the crown till the time of Edward VI., who in the first
year of his reign, passed it by the name of the manor of Henley-in-Arden, alias
Henley-Beaudesert, with two parks there belonging, to John Dudley, Earl of
Warwick, and his heirs. This John Dudley was in high favour with Henry
VIII. and Edward VI.: In the fourth year of the reign of the latter king, he
was made Lord Steward of the Household ; and, the year following, Duke of
Northumberland: Being, however, attainted of high treason for the part he took
in raising Lady Jane Grey to the throne, he was executed and his estates
estreated to the crown, ist Philip and Mary. The manor, &c., of Henley-in-
Arden, and the living of Beaudesert, were, in the thirteenth year of the same
reign, rated to John Digbye, Esq., who appears to have either bought, or to
have been negotiating for, their purchase. (||) At this time the lands, manor, etc.,
of Henley, comprised

£. s. d.

Rents of lands and tenements - 7 8 10

Customary rents of the Manor - i 19 9

Rent of a mill, and one-horse mill with a water mill, and

a pasture, called the Milkhouse
Rent of the Great Park in Henley, with the Lodge
Rent of the herbage of the Little Park
Perquisites of Court, on an average •

£57

(*) Calendar. Domestica Addenda, 1577. (i) Papers, Wat-wick, in Record Office, Chancery Lane.

(t) Harl. MSS., 433, fol. ?4b. (ii) Harl. MSS., 606, fol. 48.

28 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Fees paid out 980

Clear annual value 47 «7 7

Will'm Petre. Kfrauncis Inglefield. Jo. Baker.

Exd. p. Jo. Swifte, Audr. 3.

During the above reigns the town appears to have retained its ancient
market, &c. Leland, temp. Henry VIII, writes, "From Stratford to Heneley,
five miles. About the Est End of Aulcester is the confluence of Aulne and
Arrowe. Aulne runneth by Henley, a markett town five miles above the
confluence, and hath divers wooden bridges over it. I learned at Warwike
that the most part of the shire of Warwike, that lyeth as Avon River descendeth
on the right Hand or Ripe of it, is in Arden, (for soe is the ancient name of
that part of the Shire;) and the Ground in Arden is much inclosed, plentiful 1
of Grasse, but not of Corne."(*)

In 1592, Henley is described as being, like umany other villages of lesser
note, in Arden, as much as In the Wood. Near to this is Beudsort Castell,
belonging to the Baron Mountforth. In the chapell of S. Collome(4) in the
towne are divers armes but no monuments."^)

A MS. formerly in the Halliwell-Phillipps Library records that in the year
1615 a company of players visited Henley and other places in the neighbourhood.

In 1653, Prince Rupert, leader of Charles I.'s armies, was looking near
Henley, and rumours came to Birmingham that he would march through the
town to the north. (+)

The manor, &c., however, appears to have returned to the crown, for it
was, 4th Elizabeth, granted by the queen to Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick,
and his heirs males, (5) and in default of such issue to the Earl of Leicester, by
the name of Robert, Lord Dudley, and the heirs males. (||) Reverting again to
the crown for want of issue, in the 3ist of the same reign, it so continued, till
James I. passed it, with other manors, and lands, A.D. 1619, to John, Lord
Digby. It came, afterwards, into the hands of the Archer family, of Umberslade,
Andrew Archer, Esq., being lord of the manor in 1693-4, and remained with
them till the partition of the estates among the coheiresses, when, in the division,
it fell to Mrs. Musgrave, whose son, Christopher Musgrave, Esq., sold it to

(3) The mills and milkhouse pasture were then let to (4.) Evidently a mistake, as the chapel is dedicated to

John Whateley and John Wagstaff, the Great Park to John st. John the Baptist.
Whorwood, gentleman, and the Little Park to John

Soim-rvile, Esq. The clear yearly value, rated at twenty- <5-) The memory of the Dudleys being proprietors is

five years' purchase, it is stated, "amountethe to preserved in the old sign of the Bear and Ragged Staff,

m.ccccxxij//. xiijrf." which still swings over the door of an ancient inn.

(•) Island's /litifrary, vol. iv, fol. 166-8. (t) Timmins's Warwickshire, 1890.

(+) Notes taken by Mr. Vincent, Harl. MSS., 2129, fol. 161- (||) Lansdowne MSS., 109, fol. 184.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 2g

Darwin Galton, Esq., of Claverdon Leys, Warwick, who is now lord of the
manor. The lord still occasionally holds his court here, when an election of
High and Low Bailliffs, Afrearors, Butter Weighers, Beer Tasters, Brook Lookers,
&c., are sworn in, whose duties are only preserved in the names which, doubtless,
once gave the owners considerable power and importance. (6)

THE CHURCH, S.E.,

Which is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, is a neat structure, and stands
on the site of an earlier building, erected about 4ist Edward III, (1353), at
the cost and sole charges of the inhabitants; and arose, as stated in the con
firmation made by the Bishop of Worcester, in consequence of the great distance
and foul ways in winter time, between this place and the parish church of
Wootton, and with the consent of William de Seyne, then Prior of Wootton,
and William de Perton, then Vicar. The inhabitants were assisted by the
Bishop of Worcester issuing a bull granting to every one that would be open-
handed in contributing, an indulgence of forty days. No part of the original
building is apparent in the present edifice, which is in the style of the fifteenth
century. It consists of a tower, behind which is the north aisle, and a small
building, now used as a vestry room; with a nave, chancel, and porch on the
south. The tower is embattled, with pinnacles, of a recent date, and has a large

(6.) On the division of the property, the valuation of the annum ; Royalty and Rights appurtenant thereto, ioo/. ;
manor, &c., was as follows: viz.— Tolls of Markets and and Henley Mill 34/. per annum.
Fairs $1., Quit Rents 61. gs. iorf., Cottage Rents 17*. 8d. per

3o THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

gargoyle at the south-east angle. The west window is pointed, and of three
lights: Over this is a small pointed window, and above an obtuse angle arched
belfry window; and similar to this are the upper windows on the other faces of
the tower. On the north-east buttress, near to the north door, are the remains
of a water stoup. The nave has a high ridged roof, extending, without external
division, and of the same height, through, to the end of the chancel. There
are five pointed-arched windows, of three lights, on the south side, the eastern
window, which reaches to the roof, being of corresponding architecture, but with
five lights and good tracery. The western window is more depressed in the
arch, and is of four lights. Each of the gables is surmounted with a cross.
The north aisle has two obtuse angle arched windows, with one of like character
at the east end. The porch, which is west of the nave and embattled, is entered
by a pointed-arched doorway, the interior one being of the same style, but more
highly ornamented, the hood moulding having crockets, and springing from
corbels representing the heads of a king and queen. The vestry, which has
been higher than it now is, and which was probably, at one time, a chantry
chapel, has two square windows without mullions, and appears to have been
provided with no entrance from the outside. The interior presents no particular
features. The north aisle is separated from the nave and chancel by four
pointed arches, on plain octagonal pillars, and the north aisle from the tower by
an arch of similar character. The entrance to the vestry or chantry chapel is
by a pointed-arched doorway. The windows, as depicted by Dugdale, formerly
contained a variety of coats of arms, viz., Henry VI, Stafford, Beauchamp, Boteler
abbeys of Evesham and Winchcomb, Trevill, Montford, Clinton, Catesby, Hare-
well, Aston, Company of Grocers, &c., all of which are gone. There appears also
to have been formerly the effigies of one Thomas Kockin, grocer, with the
subscription of "Orate pro anim Thome Kockin" in several of the windows, and
in the east window of the chancel the picture of one Stokes who is said to have
been master of the Guild adjoining.(*) (See appendix.) On removing the pave
ment of the Chapel in 1856, a monumental slab was found, about one foot under
it, the inscription, on which, appears to be to the memory of this Stokes or
Stoke.(7) It is on a very thick slab, bearing a Maltese cross, five feet six inches
in length, thus:

draft pro ant

i__

RicartJi <£>tokc.

(7.) Of this family, probably, was Simon de Stok, who held land in tne Field of WHETLEY. See Papers in Record
held lands in Preston Bagot, temp. Henry III and Edward Office, Chancery Lane.
I. 7«/,, * NtvUl, f. ,8b. In 25th Henry VI, John Stokes (.} Churches of Warwickshire, p. ,36.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 3,

This slab was placed outside near to the north door, (unfortunately it has since
been so neglected as to have now become illegible.)

The chapel was repaired and restored in 1856, at a cost of 9oo/., subscribed
by the inhabitants and their friends. During the alterations, in removing a flat
ceiling over the nave, the canopy of the rood loft, gilt and highly coloured was
found above, corresponding with the surbase below, from which the pillars of
the screen supporting the rood had been cut. On one part of this surbase was
lettered, and in good preservation, in Old English characters,

"Batista* D'ni notfri,

bfatar ^lariat. KwturrtHo D'ni no;stn.

The alterations consisted of the removal of two galleries (one over the com
munion table in the chancel), the throwing open the tower arch, the removal

THE CHURCH, N.E.

of the flat ceiling of the nave and chancel, the reparation of the fine timbered
roof, the reseating the body of the chapel with open seats, the separation of the
chancel therefrom by a neat screen, the erection of a new communion table and
reredos, and the paving of the floors with Minton's tiles, the chancel part being
of a rich character and of elegant design. The monumental records in the chapel
are of modern date; and with the exception of the one before-named, nothing of
interest to the antiquary was found during the alterations. The font is a stone
shaft, corresponding to the pillars of the nave. There are six bells in the tower.
The living is in the gift of the parishioners, valued at i4<D/. The Rev. G.
B. Bell is the present vicar.

32 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

CHANTRY CHAPEL.

In the 43rd Edward III one William Fifhyde, of Henley-in-Arden, "gave
one mark for license to give to a certain chaplain three messuages with the
appurtenances, in Henley-in-Arden, to be held in mortmain,"(*) for the founding
of a Chantry in the Chapel, and the maintenance of one priest to celebrate
divine service there daily, for the good estate of the said William. If this inten
tion was carried into effect, the small building now used as a vestry, as seen on
the north of the chancel in the engraving on the previous page, most probably,
was the chantry chapel.

THE GUILD.

Sir Ralph Boteler, Lord Sudeley, owner of the town and manor, temp. Henry
VI, founded a Guild in the Chapel, for four priests belonging thereto, to pray
for the founder's soul. Little is known of the fraternity prior to the dissolution of
the monasteries. In an account of the Rentals of Margaret Catesby in Henley
and Beaudesert, 25th Henry VI, mention is made of a tenement between the
lands of the Guild and of William Couper; and in a similar account, 3rd Edward
IV, of the Croft of the Guild of Henley, and a tenement with a garden, which
the Master of the Guild of Henley lately held.(t) In 1513, Sir Thomas Bownel,
chaplain, and Sir Thomas Webbe, chaplain, paid each 6s. &/., in aid of the
king.(J) On the Inventory taken 26th Henry VIII, the Commissioners report two
priests only, as belonging to the Guild in the town of Henley-in-Arden, viz.:

"Sir Robert Colyns, chaplain in this Guild, in .
money paid by the bands of the Master there, I
for the time being- io6s. Sd. V £. s. d.

And Sir Thomas Bonell, another chaplain of the \ 10 6 8
said guild, in money paid yearly iocs., in all '

The tenth part of this sum - - - - - 20 8 "(10

In the following year the lands belonging to it were valued at 2-jl. y. $d.,
at which period three priests, one having 5/. ioy. ex/., and the other two 5/. each,
together with an organist, who had 2/. annually, constituted the establishment.

In 37th Henry VIII. (1545) the following report was made by Commissioners
relative to the Guild at Henley:—

"The seyde Gylde was ffoundyd by one Rauffe Butler (Boteler) for iiij

•) Rot. Oiiginalium, ii, 306. (j) Taxatio ad Subsidium Rtg. 26, f. 9;a.

it> Papers in the Record Office. (,|j Valor Ecclcsiasticus.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. ^

priestes to syng Dyvyne servyce in the Chapell of Saynte John Baptist in the
Towne of Henley, And to praye for the flounder's soule, howe be yt there be
resydent at thys time present tyme but iij pristes havyng perpetuetyes as before
ys rehearsed. And in the sayde Village there ys a markett kept wekely, and
havyng D.' houselyng peaple and no more churches w'in in the same village
but only the seyd Chapell whyche ys distaunt ffrom the parisshe Churche ij
myles. Also betwene the same parisshe Churche and the seyde Village runnythe
a Broke so that Dyuers tymes in the yere no man can escape wiowte greate
jeperdye, and other landes or tenementes then ys before lymyted. Also the
inventory of the same hereafter doth appeare."(*)

By a deed, dated the last day of January, 2nd Edward VI, Richard Palady,
gentleman, and Francis Foxhall, mercer, surrendered to the crown, "all those
lands, meadows, grazings, pastures, and hereditaments whatsoever with their
appurtenances, now or lately in the tenure of Thomas Ffranke, or his assigns,
lying and being in Preston, Bagott, and Claredon, in the said county of Warwick,
heretofore appertaining and belonging to the late Guild of Henley in Plenley, in
the said county of Warwick, now dissolved, and part of the possessions then
being, or appointed for the support of four priests celebrating (divine service)
in the chapel of St. John the Baptist, in the town of Henley, in the county of
Warwick aforesaid, before the date of this grant. And all other lands, meadows,
grazings, pastures, and hereditaments whatsoever, with their appurtenances, in
Preston Bagott and Claredon aforesaid, to the said Guild of Henley heretofore
belonging and pertaining, and parcel of the possessions there lately being."(t)

By inquiry made ist Mary, it was found that Richard Bud worth and Thomas
Cosnel, late chaplains of Henley Guild, had each a pension paid him, the first
of 4/. and the second of 2/. The brethren of these guilds generally possessed
a house on the north side of the church. (8) Dugdale speaks of the one pertaining
to this Guild, as being standing, north of the Chapel, in his time; and some
portions of which are to be found in the building now covering the site. He
also states that before the dissolution of this Guild, it was a custom, on all
public occasions, (such as weddings and the like,) for the inhabitants to keep
their feast in the Guild-house, in which they had most kinds of household
stuff, as pewter, brass, spits, hand-irons, linen, tables, &c., and wood out of the
little park at Beldesert for fuel, those who were at the charge of the feast paying
only six shillings and eightpence for the use of them. All was then gone but

(8.) This situation was convenient for the Brethren, as

their business was to pray, as well as eat. They bestowed (») Extract from a parchment MS. Book in the Shakes-

alms on the poor, received travelling strangers, and did peare Library,
other acts of charity as far as their revenues allowed.—

Oliver's Sleaford Guild. See further notes on Guilds, in (t) Deed in Record Office, A.D. 1548.

Appendix.

34

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

the pewter,(9) which the chapel-wardens lent out for fourpence a dozen when
any feast was made.

THE HOSPITAL.

There was a Hospital built here, 26th Henry VI, for the relief of poor
people and strangers; and, towards its support, the then Bishop of Worcester
granted an indulgence of three years to all who made contribution. The site
of this hospital is now unknown, though by some it is thought probable that the
old timber-built house, formerly a butcher's shop, opposite to the Bank, formed
part of it. The interior shows that the greater part was one large room extending
from floor to a groined roof, the latter remaining, as also two large open stoned
fireplaces, with other indications of its antiquity.

THE MARKET CROSS.

In the centre of the town, which is called the Market-place, stands one of
the few Crosses remaining in this country, which is traditionally related to have
been preserved from destruction in the seventeenth century by a shed which
was built over it. This Cross is now much injured by time. The base, shaft,
and capital are composed of three separate stones; the shaft being mortised into

(9.) Those remaining, viz., twelve dishes and seven plates, agitated, the movable property of most religious establish-
ure now in the custody of the High Bailiff*. It is a re- ments gradually decreased,
inarkahlc fact, that when the Reformation began to be

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

35

the base and capital. At the beginning of the present century there were niches
on the four faces of the capital, containing the Rood, the Trinity, St. Peter
with his key, and another subject defaced, all of which have long mouldered
away, not a trace of the sculptured figures named being visible for years past.
The remains of the head have since fallen, and nothing but the shaft and the

ANCIENT HEAD OF CROSS.

foundation steps now remain. Near the Cross was the Market Hall, a small,
heavy, open building, supported on eight pillars, and being of no use, was taken
down. This building stood on the site of what was called "The Town House,"
taken down in 1793. On the old Town House was formerly a bell, removed
from the chapel by license of the Bishop of Worcester, for the convenience of
the school, in 1693-4, Andrew Archer, Esq., the lord of the manor, certifying

36 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

that he would not claim any title or right to it. In 1727, the feoffees ordered
the "Town House" to be repaired. In the middle of the seventeenth century,
it would appear to have been the custom here to publish the banns of marriage
in the market-place; for we find, in the Wootton register of that period, a
memorandum that an intent of marriage between Roger Jennings of Wootton
Wawen, and Margery Lambert of Shelfield, was published three several market
days in the market-place of Henley-in-Arden, (January 8, 15, and 22, 1654;) no
manner of persons excepting against it, or forbidding the same.

The other objects of interest are comprised in the numerous half-timbered
houses scattered through the town. Some of these are peculiar, the beams of
the upper portions hanging over the ground story, and others of them being

NORTH GABLE, SWAN HOTEL.

of a more elaborately worked character. Occasionally, the removal of the plaster
from houses that have been stuccoed, displays a fine specimen of this style, as
during the repairs of the Swan Hotel in 1858, the northern gable, which is
here represented, was so much injured by age and worms, that no restoration
could be effected. This portion had evidently been once part of a large mansion,
extending westward to some extent, as the half-timbered parts of other attached
buildings evidence.

The hotel, or inn, was probably the best hostelry in the town in very early
times. The first notice, however, in print, is in the year 1748, when Lady
Loughborough, of Barrells Park, near Henley, wrote to the poet Shenstone,

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. ^

"There is a report that Mr. Dolman was drowned in Grove Field, near Warwick "
He was a frequent visitor at Barrells and, with other literary celebrities of that
day, it is not too much to say, frequently met at the Swan. Here he (Shenstone)
wrote the lines —

WRITTEN AT AN INN AT HENLEY.

To thee, fair freedom, I retire

From flattery, and cards, and dice, and din;
Nor art thou found in mansions higher,

Than the low cot, or humble inn.

The poem consists of four verses, and appears to have attained some celebrity,
for we find Boswell, in his Life of Dr. Johnson, "myself, and the Doctor, were
sojourners at this old hostelry on two occasions." "We dined at an excellent
inn at Chapelhouse, where he expatiated on the felicity of England in its
taverns and inns. He then repeated with great emotion, Shenstone's lines—

'Whoe'er has travell'd life's dull round,

Where'er his stages may have been,
May sigh to think he still has found

His warmest welcome at an inn.'*

"We happened to lie this night (March 2ist, 1776,) at the inn at Henley,
where Shenstone wrote these lines. (They were on their way from Oxford to
Birmingham.) We stopped at Stratford-upon-Avon, and drank tea and coffee.
On Friday, March 22nd, having set out early from Henley, where we had lain
the preceding night, we arrived at Birmingham about nine o'clock."(t)

The inhabitants of modern days, like their brethren of the fourteenth cen
tury, appear to have had a taste for paving the streets, for according to an old
document, it was agreed at a meeting held April i8th, 1776, "That it would be
to the advantage of the inhabitants that each side of the street should be properly
pitched, and that the right of commonage on certain fields should be discharged
by the payment of certain sums per acre to meet the expenses, which were
estimated at I58/. This has now given place to an excellent blue brick
pavement throughout the town.

A Baptist chapel, extant here in 1688, was replaced in 1867, at the cost of
G. F. Muntz, Esq., of Umberslade, from designs of Mr. J. Ingram, Birmingham,
the details of which were completed by Messrs. Small wood and Co., Wootton
Wawen. The fabric includes a tower and spire, (beneath which is the entrance
through a pointed arch porch,) together with a nave and vestries. A stone arch
which canopies the pulpit with its open baptistery in front, divides the interior,

(») Shenstone's Poems, vol. i, 1773. (+) Boswell's Johnson, vol. ii, 5th edition.

38 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

which affords ample space for two hundred sittings. At the east end is a gallery
for the organ and choir.

A Board School capable of holding fifty scholars has been erected a few

BAPTIST CHAPEL.

years ago, and the youth of the town and neighbourhood are receiving an
excellent education.

The inhabitants numbered 1043 in 1891, and in 1861 they were 1069. In

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

O :7

the year 1563 the number of families was n3,(*) and in 1730 only two more

viz.

Having now noticed what is worthy of remark in Henley, we may proceed
southward from the town on the road to Stratford-on-Avon, when we shall pass
May's Wood on the right, having a fine view on the left, over Wootton Pool of
Anstev Wood, a well-known fox covert, the property of Sir C. J. Smythe, baronet
Proceeding onward we pass the National School, erected through the exertions
of the vicar, the late Rev. E. D. Kirwan, the neat little village of Wootton
with its ancient church in the eminence in front is approached.

WOOTTON WAWEN

Is the mother parish to Henley-in-Arden, as also to Ullenhall, Edstone, Aspley,
and Fordhall, which we shall visit in the course of our rambles. It is a
pleasant village situated two miles south of Henley, and is supposed to have taken
its name from its situation among woods, as too from one Wagen, its lord before
the Conquest, who resided here. He was one of the great Saxon lords, and a
witness to the foundation charter of the Coventry Monastery of Leofric, A.D.
1043. According to Domesday, the manor then contained seven hides of land,
with a church and two mills; there were nine ploughlands arable, twenty-three
villeins, and twenty-two bordars, having six ploughs, the woods being two miles
in length and one in breadth, and the whole was valued at four pounds. These
had been given to Robert de Tonei otherwise De Stafford, in which family the
manor continued till the time of Henry VIII, when it fell to the crown by the
attainder, for high treason, of Edward, Duke of Buckingham. After this, it was
obtained of the king by Thomas Grey, Marquis of Dorset, whose son, Henry,
being attainted in ist Mary, the queen granted it to Sir John Grey, from whom
it was purchased by Dame Agnes Smythe and her son, Sir Francis Smythe.
His grandson obtained, i5th James I, a charter of free warren here, and left
issue Sir Charles Smythe, knight, created igih Charles I, Lord Carrington, Baron
of Wootton, from whom (the title becoming extinct) the manor came to his
kinsman, Francis Carrington, Esq., whose daughter married Peter Holford, Esq.,
whose daughter married Sir Edward Smythe, Baronet, of Acton Burnell, Shrop
shire, grandfather to the present owner and Baronet, Sir Charles Frederick
Smythe.

There was another manor or estate in Wootton, for many generations in
the Harewell family. Towards the end of the reign of Henry VIII, its then

(*) Bishop of Worcester's Return to the Privy Council, t Thomas's Dugdale.

Harl. MSS., No. 595.

40 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

possessor, John Harewell, had two sons and five daughters. The eldest son,
Thomas, died without issue, and William, the other, being a priest, the estates
were divided among the daughters; and thus Wootton, with lands in Henley,
Preston Bagot, Edstone, and Stratford, came to Agnes, the wife of John Smythe,
one of the Barons of the Exchequer. His widow, dame Agnes, as seen above,
purchased the manor, and the estates have been united since that period.

The church is the principal object of interest in the village, and stands at
the top of a gentle ascent facing the Parsonage House, which is a modern
building close to the road. It is one of the few churches in the county containing
Saxon or early Norman remains. These form the lower part of the tower, and
have been pointed out by Mr. Bloxam and other archaeologists. The patron saint
of the church is St. Peter, and the building, for a village church, is of large

THE CHURCH.

dimensions. It was given by Robert de Stafford to the monks of Conchis in
Normandy, shortly after the Conquest, and appropriated to them by Roger,
Bishop of Worcester, A.D. 1178. In 1291, igth Edward I, the value, with the
chapels belonging thereto, was stated to be fifty-two marks, the vicar's portion
being seven and a half marks. In a6th Henry VIII, the vicarage was valued
at i2/, less lay. 5</. for procurations and synodals. In the Survey made of
Church Goods 6th Edward VI,(9) there were, according to the inventory, then
at Wootton,

ii chalice and iij belles.

iij vestments one chainlet tow worsted.

ij copes one silke oon worsted.

iiij Altarcloths.

(9) A Commission to Sir George Throgmorton, knight, and other Ornaments in all Churches, Chapels, Guilds,
John I>igby and Thomas Marowe, esquires, to take inven- Brotherhoods, and Fraternities, in the County of Warwick,
tory and certificate of all the Goods, Plate, Jewels, Bells, —Papers in the Record Office.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

iiij towells diaper old.

ij curtens silke.

ij candlestickes bras.

Md. that the p'ishe have sold sithe the last s'vey oon bell to

the buyldinge of theire churche and a oyle (aisle).

The church consists of a central tower, supported by Anglo-Saxon arches, the
upper portion being of a later date, a lofty nave with clerestory, south aisle' and
chancel with a large chantry chapel on the south side of it, extending with the
south aisle, the entire length of the nave and chancel. The tower is embattled,
with small pinnacles at each angle. The upper portion, or belfry, has a double
pointed-arch window on each face. The nave has a plain parapet with gargoyles
between each of the four clerestory windows, which are obtuse angled arches of
three lights. The west window is a pointed arch of five lights, and one four
light pointed window is in the north wall, east of a half timbered porch, which
covers the northern door. The south aisle has an embattled parapet, south and
west, with pinnacles at the head of each buttress, large gargoyles projecting
below the pinnacles. It has a two light pointed window west; and two flat
headed windows of four pointed lights, south. The south doonvay, covered with
another half timbered porch, is a pointed arch, ornamented with the tooth orna
ment on the hood moulding. The chantry chapel and the chancel have high
pitched roofs, the former containing two pointed windows, of three lights, on
the south, and a large eastern one of similar character, with five lights. The
eastern window of the chancel is large, and of seven lights, under an obtuse
pointed arch. On the north are two pointed windows, set high on the wall, of
three lights each.

The nave and south aisle are divided by three pointed arches, springing
from plain circular pillars. The passage from the nave to the chancel, is under
two Anglo-Saxon arches, forming, with two semicircular doorways, north and
south, the lower part of the tower, and the oldest portion of the building, and
is considered to be one of the earliest specimens of church architecture in the
county. Two circular pillars, with three pointed arches, divide the chancel from
the chantry chapel. A continuous pillar and arch runs on the south side of
the tower, whilst a similar arch forms the division of the chapel and south
aisle.

The windows, in Dugdale's time, contained the arms of Catesby, Harewell,
Stafford, Hastings, Beauchamp, Wootton Priory, King's College, Henry VI,
Abbey of Conchis, etc. Some remnants of stained glass still remain. There
is also left a fine old oak church chest, strengthened in an extraordinary manner
with iron- work, in the chancel; and the tourist will here find specimens of
CHAINED BOOKS, a custom formerly adopted in all public libraries, to prevent

G

42 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

abstraction.( i o) They are in the chantry chapel, fixed to a reading desk, the
ring at the end of the chain being attached to a bolt fastened to the shelf.
The volumes consists of works of Divinity of the seventeenth and eighteenth
centuries, of no great value.

On the south wall of the chantry is a piscina of a fine ornamental character,
and further eastward a low semicircular surbast arch, the hood moulding of
which appears to have been partly cut and abandoned.

The monuments are numerous in the chancel and chapel. The engraving,
at the beginning of this section of the work, represents the tomb of Sir John
Harewell (pbiit 1428,) and is without inscription. Eastward of this, and within
the altar rails, is a high tomb, with a dark marble slab, containing the brass
figures of John Harewell, Esq., and his wife, with smaller figures of five sons

and five daughters. The following inscription runs at the head and down the
south border of the slab:

tyic facet 3!oljf,s tyawtorll armtg' rt Una 9nna qonram uror ffujs ac nupcr nror <EotoarDi
<£>rrp militia qtii quiDrm Joljr,5 obit r Die 9prtli,s anno Dili ^ttClCt rt qur qurDrm 3nna
obit . . rur . . a Bui iVlCl . . quorum aiab? ppitirtur Urns.

In the chancel are other inscriptions, commemorating several vicars of the church,
with some of less note. On the north side of the chantry chapel is a high
canopied tomb, with columns, surmounted by an escutcheon. On the tomb
rests a mailed figure, representing Francis Smith, Esq., with a Latin inscription
to his memory: obiit September 3, 1626. This chantry chapel contains many
monuments, some of them very large, to the memory of the different branches
of the family of Knight, of Barrells Hall, in this parish, and those to whom
they were allied. There were several other monuments and brasses, as also

(10.) So late as 1711, this precaution against pilfering
continued; for it was then stated "Since to the great re-

to secure the innocent books, and even the sacred volumes
themselves with chains - which are better deserved by

proach of the nation, and a much greater one of our holy those ill persons, who have too much learning to be hanged,
religion, the thievish disposition of some that enter into and too little to be honest."— Britis h Magazine, x. 391.
libraries to learn no good there, hath made it necessary

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 43

pieces of ancient armour. It has, too, one commemorating William Somerville,
Esq., author of The Chase, and a resident of Edstone Hall; as also a beautiful
white marble mural monument, with a kneeling draped figure at the foot, to
the memory of John Phillips, Esq., owner of the Edstone estates (obiit 1836).

In the cleaning of the interior in 1855, the scraping of the whitewash from
the surface, brought to light a great number of subjects formerly painted in
distemper on the walls, particularly over the arch in the nave leading under
the tower, a space which was divided into numerous compartments, and filled
with the principal events recorded in the New Testament. The royal arms,
temp. Anne, were similarly emblazoned on the north wall, together with many
other subjects on the south.

The pulpit is adorned with ancient carved woodwork; whilst, at the east
end of the nave, there are specimens of open screen work, forming the inclosure
of some large pews. The font is plain and octagonal. There are six bells in
the tower, one as old as 1591. The church has been restored to nearly its
former state under the plans of Mr. J. Gilbert Scott.

The living is in the gift of King's College, Cambridge, and the Rev. E. T.
Bramstone is the present vicar. The living is returned, with Ullenhall, at 3797.
They are now separated.

Coming out by the south porch, the village presents a pretty appearance
from the church-yard, among the numerous memorials of which, near the north
east corner of the chancel, will be found the following lines, written by the
Rev. J. Gaches, a former vicar, to commemorate one of Somervile's huntsmen,
John Hoitt, of Henley-in-Arden, obiit 1802, aged 80 :

" Here Hoitt, all his sports and labours past,
Joins his loved master Somervile at last;
Together went they echoing fields to try,
Together now, in silent dust, they lie.
Servant and Lord, when once we yield our breath,
Huntsman and poet, are alike to death.
Life's motley drama calls for powers, and men
Of different casts, to fill its changeful scene:
But all the merit that we justly prize,
Not in the part, but in the acting lies.
And, as the lyre, so may the Huntsman's horn
Fame's trumpet rival, and his name adorn."

At the northern extremity of the church-yard, are interred under plain
flat slabs, the bodies of six vicars of the church. Near to this, is a small piece
of land now used as a garden, by the vicar, which tradition assigns as the
burial place of those who died of the plague in Coventry. There is no proba
bility of any truth in this; but as the Carthusian monks, at Coventry, once
held the Priory here by grant, this may be the only ground for connecting the
little plot of land with that city. The population was 664 in 1891.

44 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

THE PRIORY.

This was a small monastery of Benedictine monks, alien to the Abbey of
Conchis, in Normandy, founded by Robert de Stafford, whose son gave to it
the church here, with the tithes and oblations, one hide of land adjoining the
church, and one hide called Doversdale. Subsequent confirmations and enlarge
ments were made by his grandson, and his son-in-law Hervey Bagot, who came
to the barony of Stafford in right of his wife. Many other benefactors contributed
to enlarge the funds of the brethren here, by grants of land, mills, &c., in
Henley-in-Arden, Offord, Mockley, and Beaudesert, in this county; East Wrotham,
Linford, and North and South Pickenham, in Norfolk ; the advowson of the
churches of Wootton and East Wrotham; the mortuaries of Morton Bagot and
Langley; and the tithes of I/angley and Norton, which latter they exchanged
for a pension.

In 1 6th Edward III, the Priory was seized by the king for rent to be paid
during the wars; but restored to the Prior, with an allowance of three shillings
a week for himself, and one shilling and sixpence for his fellow monk. It was
again seized, 48th same reign, and so continued, till Prior John Maubert, 3rd
Richard II, obtained a license to hold it during the wars with France, paying
4<D/. per annum into the exchequer. Three years afterwards it was granted to
Robert Selby, priest, and another, for 46/. 13^. tyd. yearly. In 22nd Richard II,
the Carthusians, at Coventry, obtained a grant of it; but it was restored by
Henry IV. After many mutations in fortune, it was at length given by Henry
VI, to the Provost and Fellows of King's College, Cambridge,* recently founded
by him; and to this foundation it still continues. The following is a list of
the Priors from 1285 to the above period: —

Roger de Pavilliaco, January 12, 1285.

John de Brocya, June 8, 1288.

William de Laverceye, November 8, 1309.

John de Tonnelier, July 26, 1328.

John de Silvaneto, January 2, 1340.

Gnillerinus Pinchart, 1349.

John Maubert, March 7, 1370.

John Soverain, 140x5.

John de Conchis, June 17, 1438.

There are no remains of the Priory, nor is the site certainly known, but the
probability is that it was situated in the field west of the church, and imme
diately adjoining it.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. ^

Leaving the church-yard, we proceed again to the road, and come immediately
to the lodge-gates of

WOOTTON HALL,

A substantial and well-built mansion, erected by the Lord Carrington, before
referred to, and the property of Sir Charles Frederick Smythe, Baronet. The
engraving presents the general external features of the building, which is, at the
present time, the residence of Joseph Tempest, Esq. The interior comprises
numerous spacious and lofty rooms, having, at the back, extensive out offices,
fish pools, and all the requirements of modern taste and civilization. The man
sion is seen to the best advantage from the road, looking over the lawn in front,
the sides of which are closely wooded with fine trees. On the north side of the
Hall, stands a spacious ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPEL, built in 1813, by the Dowager,
Catharine, Lady Smythe, at a cost of about 4ooo/. The chapel, dedicated to Our
Lady and St. Benedict, is eighty feet long and thirty feet wide, and was opened
for divine service in 1814. The exterior is of red brick; but the interior is of
a more ornate character. The roof is divided into compartments for decoration,
and the eastern window is of stained glass. The altar (sarcophagus shape) is of
very beautiful marble, sculptured at and brought from Rome. The tabernacle
(cupola shape) is made out of a solid piece of Carrara marble, and is surrounded
by coloured marble pillars, having gilt capitals. The font is plain Gothic, and
not in keeping with the rest of the interior. The pulpit is Grecian, put up in
1853, by a fr>rmer pastor; the Rev. P. J. Hewitt, and the Rev. J. Morrall, suc
ceeding pastors, added other embellishments. There is a small organ of fine
tone and compass, which was constructed, in the main, by the Rev. James Deday,
a predecessor of the present priest.

Previous to the opening of this edifice, a smaller building, north of it, had
been used, during several generations, by the congregation assembling here. In
effecting some alterations on this spot in 1860, the remains of bodies, which had
been interred many years ago, were discovered under the floor.

46

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Leaving the grounds, and advancing through the village, we come to the
bridge crossing the little river Alne, from which is a fine water-view between
an avenue of trees, including an ornamental foot-bridge in the distance, and two
cascades, meeting at the foot of the bridge we are crossing, presenting, when
the waters are high, a very pleasing picture. The next building is the ROMAN
CATHOLIC SCHOOL. Education appears to have been well cared for in this
village, for, besides the School, named as standing at the entrance to the village,
we find here a flourishing School, instituted by the Rev. P. J. Hewitt, in 1851,
and maintained by subscriptions from himself, from Sir Frederick Smythe,
Baronet, and others.

Passing the large Flour Mill, we arrive at the CEMETERY belonging to the
same body, opened in 1852. It is laid out with taste; and, in the centre, is a
chaste Mortuary Cross, designed by Welby.Pugin, Esq., the upper portion exe
cuted by Lane and Lewis. The ground was given by the late Sir Edward
Smythe, Baronet, and the cross and walls were erected chiefly at the expense of
the Hon. Mrs. Carrington Smythe, and the pastor. The high road, which we
are now following, passes under the short aqueduct of the Birmingham and
Stratford Canal; and skirting the side of Austey Wood, brings us to the plan
tations and grounds of

EDSTON'E HALL,

Which is approached by the lodge about a mile from the village. This mansion
was built by H. Mills, Esq., and finished by the late John Phillips, Esq., who
purchased it, and the manor, of him. The house is fitted up in superior style,
and contains some good portraits of the family of the late possessor. The cellars
are remarkable for their loftiness and as running throughout the whole extent
of the building. The engraving presents a view of the house, as seen over the
pool. The estates are now the property of Miss C. E. Phillips, of Ardencote,

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 4?

Claverdon, daughter of the late Mr. Phillips. On this spot, in a former building,
dwelt the celebrated Somervile,(n) a great hunter, and author of The Chase; but
of the house which he occupied, only a small stone, on which his arms are cut,
remains, built up into the head of a doorway. The Somerviles were owners of
Edstone from the time of Edward IV to the middle of the last century, deriving
it by the marriage of Thomas Somervile with Joanna, the heiress of the Ailes-
bury family, alive in 1509. It descended to their son, Robert Somervile, of
Edstone, and afterwards to John, of the same place. His son John Somervile
"was condemned of high treason and sent to Newgate, with Arderne, his father
in law, who was executed next morning, but Somervile hanged himself in
Newgate." (*) The manor then descended to the family of William, the second
son. It had successively come from the De Staffords and others, to the former
of whom it was given by the Conqueror with Wootton. It is stated to have
then contained five hides, valued at 3/., with woods, half a mile long and half
a furlong broad. Before this time it belonged to Ailric and Uluvinus, being
then called Edricestone. The monks of Bordesley had common of pasture in
this lordship for fifteen beasts, two draught horses, and two hundred sheep,
according to the large hundred, being the grant of Peter de Montford.

Here was formerly a chapel belonging to the church at Wootton, for Nic.
Benet, Curat. de Edriston, was taxed to a subsidy in the year 1513, 45. This
chapel was built by William de Edricheston, temp. Henry III. Taurinus, then
prior of Wootton, granted him license to do so, upon condition that it should
be acknowledged as a grace and favour, and that he and his successors, priors,
should have the power to annul the same whenever they pleased, as also that
the chaplain, there officiating, should swear in all things to preserve the rights
of the Church at Wootton. The witnesses were Joh. de Bee and Roger, then
Vicar of Wootton. (f)

The population of Wootton, with Edstone, in 1851, was 704; in 1861, 675.
In 1563, fifty-one families. The parish, with its numerous hamlets, &c., con
tained 2252 inhabitants in 1861.

Leaving Edstone, and travelling again on the turnpike road, we come to
four roads where, as was usual at such crossings formerly, stood the Cross :(i2)
Hence Bearley Cross as now called; and the origin of the sign of the inn there.

(H.) Himself and several branches of the family are people of the benefits vouchsafed to us by the cross of

buried in the chantry chapel in Wootton Church, and Christ; and in early times at most places

monuments erected to their memory. course, or at the meeting of three or four roads or

highways.

(12.) Many crosses were placed as marks of the boun
daries of districts. Sometimes they were erected where ^^ attached to Pedigree in Hurl. USS.
the corpse of any great person had rested as it was carried
for burial, and very often m church-yards to remind the (t) Thomas's Dugdale, 830.

48 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Turning to the left, about a quarter of a mile further, we arrive at the small
village of

BEARLEY,

Called Burlei in the Domesday Survey, and said to have been then held by its
former owner, one Alric, of Robert de Stafford, to whom the king had granted
it, and to consist of one hide of land, value ioy. In Edward the Confessor's
time, it had been rated at double that sum. The manor, or portions of the
lands, were successively in the hands of the families of Cumin, de Cantelupe,
and Burley, and were owned, temp. Edward II, by William de Warwick, who
sold it to Robert Moryn, of Snitterfield, whose son, John, settled it on his
mother and her second husband John de Cumpton, for their lives, with
remainder to himself and heirs. Since this time, 8th Edward III, it has been
divided into several freeholds, and the principal owners now are Darwin Gal ton,
Esq., John Rich, Esq., and others.

THE CHAPEL.

This is another chapelry to Wootton Wawen, and in the gift of the vicar
of that parish. It appears to have possessed a chapel from the time of Richard
I. By a Terrier made 1585 it appeared that Bearley paid no tithe or tenth to
the Vicar of Wootton, but for the burial of any corpse fourpence. All tithes paid
to the parson who is to fill the cure of Bearley. In 6th Edward VI, the church
goods were

j chalice & ij belles,
oon vestment dornix.
one cope doniix.
one altarclothe.
one towell.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

49

The building now standing is a mean brick and tile edifice with no archi
tectural pretensions. It consists of a small tower, under which is the entrance,
and a nave and chancel. The nave contains a few modern monumental
inscriptions, and a font which appears older than any part of the building, which
in itself is very uninteresting to the visitor. The registers date from 1587. The
present incumbent is the Rev. E. Cooper, and the living returned at 62/.

The population of Bearley, with Langley, was 231 in the year 1841, and 330
in 1891. There were nine families in 1563.

Before returning, if we direct our gaze beyond the village, a fine view is
obtained of Snitterfield Bushes, a famous fox covert of great extent, and one of
the most frequently visited coverts in the county, rarely failing to furnish a fox,
when all others in the neighbourhood have failed. As Somervile, who lived
close by, sung, it may here still be said,

"Hark! what loud shouts

Re-echo through the groves! he breaks away — •
Shrill horns proclaim his flight! Each struggling hound
Strains o'er the lawn to reach the distant pack.
'Tis triumph all and joy! "

Returning to Bearley Cross, we pass over the turnpike road, and in pro
ceeding down the road to Aston, travel under the Long Aqueduct, erected in
1813. It stands on thirteen lofty piers, and extends 500 feet, over a little stream
and valley. It was, at the time of its erection, the wonder of the country round,
whose inhabitants nocked to see this marvel of engineering skill, as they thought
it, of carrying a canal over a valley. About a field off, on the right, is SiLLES-
BURNE, a farm house, situate near a little stream which is crossed on the

turnpike road, by a bridge, still called the Hermitage Bridge. On the site of
this house, once stood a Hermitage, mention of which is made in the wil
John Harewell, who died 7th Henry VIII, (1428,) bequeathing his body to
sepulchre in the church of St. Peter at Wootton, and leaving 6'. iy. *t. i
repairs of the great roadway between the latter place and the Hermitage at

50 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Sillesburne.(i3) Passing along, the road leads by NEWNHAM on the left, a
country of heavy land, and about a mile further on, we arrive at the village of

ASTON CANTLOE,

So called from its early proprietor, William de Cantelupe, to distinguish it from
other Astons, in this county. In the Conqueror's time the manor was valued at
six pounds, and consisted of five hides of land, a church, a mill, and woods a
mile square. It was then called Estone, and had been recently given to one
Richard, a noble Norman, and was then enjoyed by Osbertus, his son. So early
as 6th John, it was obtained by the before-named William de Cantelupe, and
continued in that family till the time of Edward I, when, for want of heirs, it
came to Henry de Hastings, who had married Johanna, daughter of another
William de Cantelupe, obttt 39th Henry III. The Cantelupes were great patrons
of the Priory of Studley, endowing it with lands here of the value of 4i/. per
annum, and other privileges, as also the advowson of the church in support of
the hospital built at the gates of the said Priory.

From the above heiress the manor fell to John de Hastings, her son, who
claimed, I3th Edward I, a Court Leet, with assize of bread and beer, waifs,
gallows,(i4) and free warren within the manor, which were allowed.

By an Inquisition held at Stratford-on-Avon, 8th of this reign, the Jurors
presented that the liberties of Aston and other places, impede common justice,
because they do not permit the king's bailiffs, in any way, to perform their
office, without their bailiffs. Also that John Clerk, bailiff of the Bishop of
Worcester, took of a certain inhabitant of Aston, imprisoned, ioy. for permitting
him to escape. (*)

The family of Hastings possessed the manor for several descents, down to
Lawrence de Hastings, created Earl of Pembroke, i3th Edward III. Dying,
22nd of the same reign, it came to his son, John, then an infant, one year old.
The king (26th) then committed to William de Clinton, Earl of Huntington, the
custody of the manor, to hold until the lawful age of the heir, rendering thence
annually twenty pounds, and, afterwards, on his death, 2Qth Edward III, it was
in like manner and terms, at the request of the executors of the will of the
said William de Clinton, committed to the custody of Juliana, wife of the said
earl.(t) John de Hastings dying without issue, the manor came, by entail, to Sir

(13.) This is now a farm-house, bearing no evidence of (14.) A short distance south of the village is a place

its former character. The abode of a Hermit was usually called "Gallows Green," where several human bones have

a cave, or some simple dwelling, and he supported him- been dug up. This may have been the place of execution

self by the labour of his own hands, leading a regular of offenders whom the will or caprice of the lord might

life. He rose early, first offering prayers, then cultured condemn to death,
the little plot of land which found him food, and finally

poured forth his blessings for the benefits received, and <"> Rot' Ortg" VoL "• Pp' "6 and 2z8'

prayers to the Almighty for future blessings and protection. (+) Rot. Orig., 3 r. and n.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

William Beauchamp, second son of Thomas, Earl of Warwick, who was created
Lord Bergavenny, and it has, ever since, been in the same family, the present
Earl of Abergavenny being lord of the manor.

A castle and park are said to have existed here in the time of the Cante
lupes. Of the former there is no authentic record; bnt of an extensive building
evidence still remains north of the church, in an inclosure moated on three sides
the other being formed by the river Alne. Here are several mounds of earth'
and the field now bears the name of "Stocking Banks." Materials and timber
used in building have been found at various times, indicating the existence of
a structure of some note once within its area.

THE CHURCH

Is dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and formerly belonged to the Canons of
Studley Priory. It was valued at thirty-three marks in 1291, and was given to
these Canons by William de Cantelupe, whose heirs repossessed themselves of
it on two different occasions, on the latter of which they gave it to the Priory
of Maxstoke. The Canons of Studley afterwards obtained possession, which led
to great suits between them and those of Maxstoke, in which the latter at length
prevailed. In 26th Henry VIII, the vicarage was valued at io/., less los. 5</.,
for synodals and procurations. The Church Goods, temp. Edward VI., are
returned as

j chalice & iij belles, one litle bell,
ij vestments, one silke, one dosonton.
one cope, worsted,
one pix, bras.

52 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

ij artarclothes.(»)
ij towelU.

Md. That the p'ishe have sold sithe the last s'vey to the maynten'nce of theire churche and
the relief of the pore, oon bell.

The building comprises an embattled tower, with five bells, a nave, north
aisle, chantry chapel, and chancel, the gray walls of which contrast admirably
with the beautiful yard in which the edifice stands, and which is a model of
what a church-yard should be, care being taken, by the incumbent, to have it
kept as a place really sacred to the memory of the departed, and not, as too
commonly happens, in a state in which no one would suffer his homestead to be
seen, rank with nettles, weeds, and rubbish.

The tower, like that of Wootton, is embattled, with pinnacles at each corner,
and a two-light pointed window on each face of the belfry. The nave and
chancel have high ridged roofs. Some of the windows furnish fine specimens
of tracery, and, with the doors, are generally pointed arches. The east window
is lofty, with the tracery destroyed, the mullions extending to the top of the
arch. At the east end of the chantry chapel is a massive mullioned window
with heavy tracery, under a pointed arch. Over the north doorway is a curious
specimen of sculpture inserted in a niche. This had evidently been brought
from some other building, and placed here. The figures consist of a female in
bed, with a child in swaddling clothes on the outside. The coverlet is brought
over the body, up to the chin, whilst the head of a man is carved at the foot
of the bed. The sculpture is rough in execution, and the subject of it has
puzzled many to conjecture.(i5)

The tower contains one of the earliest specimens of English Horology in
the town clock, as seen above. It consists of three upright beams, joined together
at the head and foot. Between these are a series of wrought-iron wheels of
excellent workmanship and peculiar design. There are neither dial nor hands,
but the hours are struck on the largest bell. It appears that a new escapement
was provided in the year 1740. It had been silent for some years, but being
thoroughly repaired in 1887, it now sounds the hours to the country round as
in olden times.

The nave of the church was restored, the south wall rebuilt, a new open
timber roof erected, and the interior newly seated with open benches in 1851,
by subscriptions raised by the vicar. The nave is divided from the aisle by
four pointed arches, springing from three octagonal pillars. The tower is entered
from the nave by a similar pointed arch, springing from corbels in the wall.

(15.) It is more than probable that this is a rude repre- surface, may have been removed from the chantry chapel,
Mitation of Joseph, Mary, and the infant CHRIST; and, as and ^ hid from observation, to prevent its destruction,
it was formerly covered with plaster to show a smooth (•) Sic in MS.

-• •

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. ^

The chancel is very lofty, and of large dimensions, being nearly the size of the
nave, from which it is divided by a lofty pointed arch, with a low stone wall
and iron gates, restored in the year just stated. The chancel is fitted up with
stalls(i6) and altar, choral service being uniformly employed. A small window,
on the north side, has been filled with a modern stained glass representation
of the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary, beneath which is the inscription,
" Thank offering for many opportunities of Holy Communion." The roof,'
very old, is in circular form, with a carved cornice. It formerly bore the
arms of Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, Clinton, Earl of Huntingdon, &c. On
the west wall were also the arms of Lord Brooke. On the south side is a
sedilia of three graduated seats, which have been lately restored, but the
columns dividing them have, at some period, been cut off. The priest's door
has been partly filled up, and a slab inserted half-way, to form a credence
table. The vicar contemplates the restoration of this part of the church, which,
when finished, will form a fine specimen of an ancient chapel.

The chantry chapel is separated from the chancel by two arches and one
pillar, similar in character to those in the nave. The east window contains
fragments of ancient stained glass. This chapel, as will be found by the account
of the Guild very early established in this place, was devoted to the services
of a priest of that fraternity, at the altar of the Blessed Virgin.

There are several monumental slabs and mural tablets in various parts of
the church, but none of ancient date. A modern stained glass window, subject,
"The Crucifixion," has been placed in the nave, behind the pulpit. (17) The font
is octagonal, on a pillared shaft, the capital charged with quatrefoils, deeply
cut. The Rev. W. M. Woodward is the vicar. The population in 1881 was
1099.

The vicarage was valued in 36th Henry VIII, at 9/. 9.9. &£, less synodals,
&c., i8s. nd. It is now returned at 93/. The vicarage house stands at the
west end of the church-yard, but presents no feature worthy of particular note.
In the tasteful church-yard, with its neat walks, flowered graves, and well
shorn lawn, many pretty memorials to the dead have been set up. One slab
bears a cross, and an inscription to the memory of the Rev. H. Hill, ohit
September i, 1849, who resided here only a few years, but was a great bene
factor to the parish. The old church-yard cross, opposite to the entrance to
the church, has been restored, and the following inscription placed on the base:
"This cross was restored in memory of Henry Hill, M.A., vicar of this parish,
1850." This gentleman erected the spacious and handsome school-room and

(16.) One of these stalls is ancient, and the carved heads (17.) This pulpit is considered to be the original one, and

in good preservation; the others are modern additions, is of oak, standing on four buttresses, with finials. and
and of a temporary nature. divided into eight plain panels.

54 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

house abutting on the church-yard, at a cost of about iooo/. to himself; and,
by his munificence, a weekly average of sixty poor children now receive a good
education in a village, where, not many years ago, instruction was little thought
of, and still less cared for. The school buildings are in the early English style,
erected by Mills and Son, from designs by W. Butterfield, Esq., of London,
and harmonise with the architecture of the church.

THE GUILD.

The Guild here was of very early origin, being founded by the parishioners,
who alone comprised the fraternity, to the honour of God and the Blessed
Virgin. In gth Edward IV a licence was granted to Sir Edward Nevill, Knight,
the lord of the manor, for the maintenance of a Priest, daily to celebrate divine
service at the altar of the Blessed Virgin, in the church, for the good estate
of the said king, and Elizabeth his consort, as also for all the brothers and
sisters of the fraternity, during their lives, and for their souls after death, and
for the souls of all the faithful departed. In the return made 37th Henry VIII,
this Guild was certified as follows:

"Sir Thomas Berdemore, chaplain in this guild, in money \
paid by the hands of the Master there for the time I
being, id&s. 8rf.

And Sir John Wryte, another chaplain there, in money

paid yearly, iocs, in all
The tenth part of this sum 20 8 " (•)

Tradition states that the residence of the Priests of the Guild, was a range
of buildings, the foundations of which may be traced in a field, called "Parsons'
Close," situate a short distance south of the church. It is, however, more
probable that the half timbered house, with its projecting upper story, and
porch, north of the church, was the Guild House. (t)

NEWNHAM

Contains nothing of interest to induce the rambler to visit it, consisting only
of a few detached farm houses and cottages. Further on is another member of
Aston, called

WILMECOTE,

Noted for its extensive stone quarries, and cement works, which furnish em
ployment to a great number of workmen. It is mentioned separately in

(•) Valor Ecclrsiatticus. (+) See Appendix.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. ^

Domesday Survey, and then contained three hides of land, value 60,, held bv
one Ursa. In xath Henry III, it had become the property of William de
Wilmecote, who took his name from the place, and in his family the manor
continued till 8th Henry VII, when it passed from Henry de Vlsle and his
wife, in trust, for Hugh Clopton, alderman, of London, and with the Cloptons
t remained for a considerable period. The manor subsequently came to the
Earl of Abergavenny, whose descendants now hold it, with a great portion of
the land of the chapelry.

THE CHAPEL.

Before the rath Henry III, there was a Chapel here, for, in that year, William
de Wilmecote had a suit with the Archdeacon of Gloucester, relative to the
advowson of the chapel belonging to the village. It was dedicated to St. Mary
Magdalene, and was given to the Guild of the Holy Cross, at Stratford-on-Avon,
in the time of Edward IV, by Henry de L'lsle and Elizabeth, his wife, who
had become owners of the manor, she being heir to the Wilmecotes.

The chapel, now standing, was erected in the year 1840, at a cost of near
2000/. It is dedicated to St. Andrew, and is a neat stone building, consisting
of a nave, two narrow aisles, and a small chancel, presenting no particular
external features. Entering by the western door, under a pointed arch, the
interior offers a more elegant appearance, being fitted up at considerable cost.
The nave, as well as the aisles, have open timbered roofs, and are divided by
four pointed arches, springing from circular pillars. The aisles are lighted with
single lancet windows, some of them filled with stained glass. The western
gable is pierced with two very lofty lancet windows, and the chancel, or east
window, is of three lancets, the middle one higher than the others, divided
externally by plain stonework, and internally by round columns with capitals.
The centre one contains a representation of the Crucifixion, and other subjects,
in coloured glass. On each side of the altar are two stone seats, under trefoil
arches, with circular columns, and a piscina on the north side corresponding
in design. The pulpit is of carved stone, presenting four faces to the front,
and approached by steps under an arch leading from the priest's door. The
font, which is circular, on a similar base, is also carved. The seats are all
open, and divided from the choir and chancel by a low screen. As there is
no tower, or bell turret, the bell hangs in a wooden campanile a few yards from
the north door.

The living is a perpetual curacy, and the Rev. R. H. Crucifix the present
incumbent.

The school in the chapelry is a neat building, erected in 1846, and is
conducted on the National system.

56 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

PATHLOW,

A third member of Aston Cantloe, is situate about a mile east of Wilmecote.
It now consists of a few scattered farm houses and cottages, but anciently gave
name to the Liberty of Pathlow. It had the title of a Hundred in the Con
queror's time, and is styled, in Domesday Book, Patelau. It was early granted
to the Bishops of Worcester, and 4th Edward I, the then bishop had return of
writs, assize of bread and beer, with other royal customs therein.(iS) It remained
with the see of Worcester till the time of Edward VI, when it was exchanged
for divers lands in Worcestershire, with John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, and his
heirs, and it came to the crown, ist Mary, on his attainder. Her successor,
Queen Elizabeth, granted it to Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick, but failing
issue male, it again returned to the crown, and was by James I granted to Sir
Francis Smythe, of Wootton Wawen, whose successors occasionally held a Court
Leet for the manor.

Another hamlet to Aston must be visited on our return; so proceeding for
a short distance on the road we enter Aston, and turning to the left, we come
to the brook ninning from Wootton, a very dangerous place in winter, and
frequently impassable for hours after a storm. Passing over a lofty bridge, of
not very strong materials, used for foot passengers only, we enter the hamlet of

LITTLE ALNE,

Consisting of two farm houses and a few cottages. It was anciently possessed
by the lords of the manor of Aston, and the lands, given by the Cantelupes to
the Canons of Studley, were principally, if not wholly, in this place. The first
William de Cantelupe erected a certain hospital near the gate of the Priory of
Studley for the relief and entertainment of impotent people; and William, his
son and heir, granted to them lands, for this purpose, in his manor of Aston,
to the value of io/. annually, with effects, ist Mary, were granted to one Anthony
Skinner, and comprised five tenements, a water mill, and a meadow. The Aston
Register contains several entries of this family from 1633 to 1733. The estate
remained in this family for several generations, and is now the property of
Walter Hemming, Esq., of Bewdley, whose father purchased it of Sir F. L. H.
Goodricke, Baronet.

SHELFIELD

Is another member of Aston, and lies about a mile to the left of Little Alne,
and, like it, consists of a few farm houses and cottages. There are three remark-

(18.) It was in this part of Aston that the occurrence referred to at p. 50 doubtless took place.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

0 /

able conical hills on one of the farms, of considerable altitude. William de
Cantelupe, as before cited, made considerable grants to the Canons of Studley
temp. Henry III; and, in defining these, the document describes them as bounded
by the park of Scelefhull. Dugdale says that, without doubt, the woods or great
part of them, mentioned in Domesday Book as being then in Aston were here
situate, and that they -were imparked by the lords of the manor for their
pleasure in hunting, it being a mountainous ground most proper for deer and
conies." This park is described as being bounded by the highway leading from
Spernore (Spernall) to Aston. The manor appears to have passed through the
various families named in the account of Aston, and to have descended through
them to the present owner, the Earl of Abergavenny. The old manor house still
remains here converted into a farm house, now called Shelfield Lodge. There
is another large farm house, called Shelfield Square. At the manor house on
the site of the former, doubtless lived the John Barret, gth Richard II, who
married Felicia, the daughter and heiress of Peter de Studley. One of 'these
places is considered to have been the residence of the Skinner family (1600-
1725), as shown in the births and deaths of the Aston registers.

The population of Aston Cantloe, with its hamlets, was 1089 m the year
1841, and 1155 in 1861. There were fifty-three families in 1563.

Proceeding homeward on the Alcester turnpike road, and passing over
Round Hill, from which extensive prospects of scenery may be obtained, we
pass

OFFORDE,

On the right, formerly a small hamlet, with a manor house, but now having
only a mill and a few cottages remaining. In the Domesday Survey it is
described as containing five hides of land, with a mill, and woods a mile long
and half a mile broad, the whole being of the value of 5/. It was granted to
Robert de Stafford, having been the property of Waga, the former proprietor of
Wootton Wawen. In the time of Henry II, one of the successors of the above
Robert, enfeoffed Robert the son of Matthew, and his heirs of all his interest
here, excepting the lands of three freeholders, and a wood lying on the left
hand of the ancient way leading from Wootton to Morton Bagot. He residing
here, assumed the surname of Offord, and married the granddaughter of Robert,
son of Odonis, lord of Morton. In 25th Henry III, William de Blancfront was
certified to hold Offorde, and in 36th of the same reign to have half a knight's
fee there of the Lord Stafford. His grandson styled himself Lord of Offorde, 3ist
Edward III. It came again into the hands of the Stafford family, for, 46th of
this reign, they are certified to hold the manor in fee.(*) The place afterwards

(*) Inquisitions Post Mort.

I

58 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

became of little consequence as a village, and passed ultimately in the same
manner as Wootton to the family of the Smythes, and has long been accounted
as parcel of the lordship of that place. On the left is a farm house, retaining
the name of the Park Farm; and beyond it, Wavensmerc, an ancient member
of Wootton Wawen. Here, having arrived again on our return, we plod our
way to Henley-in-Arden, our original point of departure, which we speedily
reach, glad to rest, yet not dissatisfied with the day's pilgrimage.

lag.

UR next trip will comprise the places lying south-west of
Henley, viz. : Hungril, Nutlands, Oldberrow, Morton Bagot,
Spernal, Studley, Mapleborough Green, Skilts, Outhill,
Ullenhall, and Barrells.

Travelling by what is called the new road, turning
west, at the south end of the town, we arrive at a few
scattered houses, called Hungril, or Hungerhill. The
road-way called Watery L,ane, was, formerly, in the brook
now running by its side. From its dangerous nature,

however, the inhabitants of Henley, A.D. 1769, were induced to purchase the
adjoining land, and to make a safe road, alienating, in order so to do, a portion
of their rights in the common field, (i) Proceeding up the hill, which gives
name to the place, and turning round by the guidepost towards Redditch, we
have, on the left hand, a pleasantly-situated farm house, called Nutlands, so
styled, most likely, from the character of underwood once growing there, and
arrive, at the distance of two miles from Henley, at

OLDBERROW,

A small village, situated on a peninsula, or narrow strip of land, in the county
of Worcester, stretching, like a wedge, of several miles in extent, into Warwick
shire. This place is in the lower division of the hundred of Blakenhurst and
Deanery of Warwick, and was, at the time of the Domesday Survey, called
Olberge. It then belonged to the Abbey of Evesham, and comprised twelve
hides of land, two swineherds, and a wood, the value being 55. Nash, in his

(i.) The parishioners were compelled to effect this great stated in the Highway Book they had _ been ^ subjected to
improvement to avoid further indictments, which it is "by reason of its founderness and gutcksands.

6o

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

History of Worcestershire, conjectures the name, Old-barrow, or borrow, to have
arisen from an ancient tumulus here. By others it is conjectured that the name
arose from the great number of Owls around, an ancient family being known
to have bore three owls in their coat of arms. At the latter end of the reign
of Edward III, there was a family of the Owlboroughs resident in the place;
and their arms, three owls, were formerly in the church windows. In the 4th
and 5th Mary, the manor was given to Valentine Knightley, in whose family
it long remained. Afterwards it came to the Packwoods, who sold it to the
trustees of the Earl of Catherlough, from whom it descended, in direct succession,
to the late Robert Knight, Esq., of Barrells, at whose death the property was
purchased by the late William Newton, Esq., and others. There are several
distinct properties in the parish, belonging to Mrs. Wykeham Martin, and
other proprietors. Some old names still remain, viz.: Warnhap-hill, Puck
Meadow, and Gospel Bit.

THE CHURCH,

Like the manor, belonged to the Abbey of Evesham, up to the dissolution of
religious houses. It is a small structure, dedicated to St. Maty, presenting, as
the engraving shows, a somewhat picturesque appearance. After the suppression
of the Abbey of Evesham, it was transferred to the Knightleys; and remained
in their patronage, until, by the marriage of Ann, heiress of the family, it
passed to Robert Foley, Esq., who sold it, A.D. 1705, to William Holyoke,
junior, who afterwards disposed of it to the Rev. John Peshall, of Guildford,
Surrey, in whose family it has since continued, the late Rev. Samuel D'Oyley
Peshall having been the rector up to 1858. The Rev. Samuel Peshall is now
the rector. Connected with the rectorial history of this place, is a letter from
Charles I, (dated February 26, 1643) preserved in the archives of the bishopric

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 61

of Worcester, commanding the authorities to expel Thomas Burrough from the
living, because he was a rebel. Another rector, William Holyoke, 1725—1769,
is frequently mentioned in Lady Luxborough's letters to Shenstone, to which
we shall more particularly refer when we come to Barrells House.

The church consists of a nave, chancel, tower, and timber-built south porch.
The tower is also timber-framed, and rests on beams thrown across some solid
masonry, part of the former stone tower, portions of which are supported by
strong buttresses. The exterior is plain and unpretending, the walls being
whitewashed up to the ridged roof, which is covered with tiles. The interior
presents no special features, with the exception, perhaps, of the chancel, which
is distinguished from the nave by a slight elevation of the ceiling. The windows
are mostly small, all the mullions being obliterated, with the exception of one
at the east end of the chancel, which is larger, perfect, and divided into three
compartments by two mullions, with the corresponding tracery. In this window
were, at one time, the arms of the Abbey of Evesham, and several figures, in
the attitude of prayer, in the divisions between the mullions, together with an
inscription, "Orate pro animabus Jotis Owleboroughe (et uxoris) ejus" These have
all disappeared, except the arms, now in the uppermost centre. On the south
side of the communion table, is a piscina and locker, the ornamental portions
of which have been destroyed. Opposite, on the north side, is another opening,
which may have been used in the Easter celebrations. (*) The church, judging
from the date, 1698, upon one of them, appears to have been pewed many
years. Two only of the old open seats remain. A small gallery has been
erected at the west end, over which an unsightly dormer window has been
inserted. The font stands on a shaft of four connected pillars, is nearly circular
at the base, ending in an octagon at top, with a face bearing some rude carving
on three of the sections. There are no monuments, except two slabs on the
chancel floor. Three bells occupy the tower.

The living is returned at aoo/. per annum. In the reign of Elizabeth the
parish contained ten families; in 1776 it had twenty-seven; and the population
in 1891 numbered seventy-three.

Leaving Ou>BERROW, we re-enter Warwickshire, in which, about a mile
and a half further, and over a road not very practicable for light wheeled
carriages, and through a country not remarkable for beauty of scenery, we come
to another small village, called

MORTON BAGOT,
Possessed, before the Conquest, like Wootton Wawen, by Waga, and bestowed

(*) See "Beaudesert."

62 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

by William I on Robert de Stafford, of whom, at the time of the survey, it was
held by one Hervey. It was valued at 20?., but was then worth 40?. In Henry
IPs time, Robert Odonis, or the son of Odo, was the owner, through the
marriage of one of whose daughters with William Bagot, part of the property
passed into his possession, and continued in his family for several generations.
They resided here; hence the addition to distinguish the place from the other
Mortons in the county. Two other daughters of Robert Odonis also possessed
property in this village; for William Trussell, a descendant of one of them, held
of the Lord Stafford, 36th Henry III, half a knight's fee, along with Roger
Bagot. The possessions of the other daughter were transferred, by Robert de
Mora, her descendant, together with the advowson of the church, to the Canons
of Kenilworth, about A.D. 1254. The celebrated Robert Bagot, son of the above
William, and a great favourite of Henry III, likewise resided here. His son,
William, was a knight, and sold the manor, 24th Edward I, for 130 marks, to
Roger de Coningesby, who, in the 3ist of the same reign, obtained a charter of
free-warren throughout all his demesne lands here. His son, John, was one of
the knights of the shire for the county of Warwick, i8th Edward III; and,
some years after, was one of the Commissioners for putting the statute for
labourers into execution in this county. His son, dying without issue, the manor
came to his daughter, married to John de Lee. For want of heirs in the next
generation, it reverted to Thomas de Coningesby, a descendant of the second
son of Roger de Coningesby, the purchaser already referred to, in whose family
it continued some time. The Trussells of Bellesley, appear to have had the
reputed manor and the presentation to the living in 1361, and at that period
were designated " Do minus de Morton Bagot" and continued lords thereof up to
the year 1427. The manor has since passed through various hands; and now,
with the greater part of the property in the parish, belongs to Sir F. L. H.
Goodricke, Baronet.

THE CHURCH

Is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and was granted, as before stated, to the Canons

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. ^

of Kenilworth. These Canons presented to the living till 1361, when it appears
that William Trussell presented Henry Copenhall, and his two successors as
vacancies arose. The Canons seem to have repossessed themselves of the living
in 1432, for one year, after which the patronage appears to have reverted to the
same family, and to have continued in their nomination till 1551. A lengthened
dispute took place early in the reign of Edward II, between the Prior of
Wootton and the Rector of this place, relative to the burial of persons who died
in the parish, and the mortuaries arising therefrom. It was tried in the Court
of Arches, and given in favour of the Prior, but the Rector disputed this in
the Court of Chancery, and it was not settled till the i9th of the same reign,
by a similar decision. The Church Goods, 6th Edward VI, are returned as

one chalice, one bell.

one vestment, fustyan.

ij altarclothes.

ij towells.

ij crosses, one bras, one leade.

ij cruett.

one sensor, coper.

The Church is situated on a rising ground, and is of a mean character,
having no great interest for the lover of architectural details. It consists of a
nave and chancel, with a timber-framed belfry resting on the roof of the former.
The nave contains windows of two and three lights, under pointed and obtuse
angled arches. The chancel side windows are similar in character, and the eastern
window is of three lights under a semi-circular arch. The interior is nearly as
uninteresting as the exterior. The nave, the roof of which is ceiled over, is
seated with a few pews and some clumsy oak open benches, and on each side
of the chancel are open stalls with carved heads and finials. The chancel arch
is pointed, and the east window filled with figured quarries. There is a piscina
on the south side, and on the north are some remains of the rood screen. The
font is octagonal, resting on a plain basement. There are a few monumental
inscriptions to the memory of the Holyokes and other families, all of modern
date. Two bells occupy the belfry.

In 1291, the living was valued at six marks and a half; in 26th Henry
VIII at 6/., and is now returned at i88/. per annum. It is in the gift of T. E.
Walker, Esq. The Rev. J. C. Farmbrough is the Rector.

The population in 1891 was 74. Twenty-three families resided here in

1563-

Passing from Morton and travelling along the lanes, having a fine view of

Studley Castle on the right, at a distance of two miles we arrive at another
small village called

SPERNALL,

Anciently written Spcrnorc, situate on the river Arrow, and in the time of the

64 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Domesday Survey the property of William Buenvasleth, held of him by one
Hugh. It was rated at two hides, a mill at four shillings, and seven sticks
of eels, with woods three furlongs long and one broad, all of which were
valued at 40?. There were four villeins and seven bordars with three ploughs.
The lands appear to have come by some agreement into the possession of
William de Newburgh, the first Earl of Warwick of the Norman line, as one
of them, and Edward II, was lord of the place, and granted it to the family
of Duvassal, to hold the same in sergeantry, by the service of attendance on
the earl, and his heirs, at certain times as chief butler. With the Duvassals
it remained till the end of Edward Ill's reign, when issue male ceased. After
this William Spernore, styled William Duvassal, dominus de Spernore, was
seized of it as tenant for life, the reversion pertaining to Walter Holt, son and
heir of one of the daughters of Nicholas Duvassal. This Walter Holt had
livery of the manor, 5th Henry IV, and he enfeoffed the same to John Reve,
Vicar of Coughton. His heir, Thomas Reve, passed it, yth Henry VI, to
Thomas Wybbe, Esq., but soon after John Throckmorton purchased the whole
of the rights, &c., of the manor from the descendants of the coheiresses of the
above Nicholas Duvassal, and in his family it has continued to the present
time.

THE CHURCH,

Formerly a chapel to the neighbouring church of Coughton, is small, and
represented in the initial letter of this chapter. In the reign of Richard I, the
Bishop of Worcester decreed that the Canons of Studley, as in Coughton,
should have the right of burial of such inhabitants as were not in a free
condition. These tenants by bond service, dying of pestilence, and the lords of
the lands they occupied being obliged to dispose of them for others, a dispute
arose, relative to these burials, between the Nuns of Cookhill and the Canons
of Studley, the former having obtained the advowson of the chapel from the
latter, nth Henry III, hence their claim. In 3Oth Edward III this dispute was
settled by the then bishop, who directed that the Canons should have the
burial of those who died on lands formerly held in villeinage, and the Nuns
the others, which rights were valued, A.D. 1291, as belonging to the Canons,
at 25^., and to the Nuns at 2or.

In 26th Henry VIII, the living was valued at 4/., and is now returned at
i54/. The Rev. C. Dolben is the present incumbent.

The Church, represented at the commencement of this chapter, is dedicated
to St. Leonard, (2) consists of a nave, chancel, and porch, all of which were

(2.) St. Leonard, a French nobleman at th«> court of and is implored by prisoners as their patron saint.
Clovis I, was converted by Kemigius. He died about 559,

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 65

almost entirely rebuilt in 1844. The nave, which still preserves some portion
of the old structure, is lighted on each side by two obtuse angle arched windows,
of two lights, those most eastern being old, and ths western ones rebuilt to
correspond; the gable, supported by five ancient buttresses, is surmounted by a
turret with one bell, under which is a two-light pointed window. The chancel,
wholly rebuilt in the Norman style, has a small semi-circular arched window
on each side, and a circular window, in six compartments, at the east end.
Two round columns, with capitals, run up at the angles of the gable as high
as the string course, and a cross forms the apex. The porch is modern, placed
over the south doorway, which is flat headed.

The interior is fitted up with open seats, oak reading desk, stone pulpit,
and font. The north eastern window of the nave contains a few fragments of
ancient stained glass, and the opposite one some modern glass in the tracery.
The two more western ones are filled with figured quarries and coloured glass
borders. The chancel is divided from the nave by a semi-circular arch, and
contains several marble tablets to the memory of the Chambers family, former
patrons of the living. The Rev. C. Dolben is the present rector.

The river Arrow is here broad and dangerous in flood time, as there is
only a bricle and foot road across it. The prospects around possess little of an
interesting character.

There were only twelve families resident here in 1563. In 1891 the
population was 70.

Passing from Spernall, another lane leads to the Birmingham and Alcester
turnpike road, a portion here of the ancient Ryknield Street, referred to at p. 5.
Turning to the right, and proceeding about a mile thereon, we come to the
large village of

STUDLEY.

Part of this parish, at the time of the Norman Conquest, belonged to one
Swain, and was after that event given by king William, in reward for services,
to William de Corbuson or Corbezon. It then comprised four hides of land,
on which stood the church and a mill. There were nineteen villeins and twelve
bordars, as also a furnace, producing nineteen horse-loads of salt annually, and
woods one mile in length and half a mile broad, the value of the whole being
5/. Another part, belonging to Godric in Saxon times, was, at the Norman
Survey, the property of William Buenvasleth, and extended to one hide of land,
with woods three furlongs in length and two in breath, value IQS.
William de Corbuson descended Peter, called Peter de Stodley, a pious man,
who gave lands to the monks of Bordesley, a mill and certain lands here
the Knights Templars, and founded the Priory of Studley; but his son an

K

66 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

successor, another Peter, left little or nothing to his descendants, selling, to his
tenants here, all his wood called The Haye,($ so that they might have common
pasture therein for cattle, reserving to himself and heirs only the pannage and
agistment for hogs. He gave also to Hugh de Montfort, of Beaudesert, who
married his daughter Emma, large portions of this estate, and the park of
Studley to Thurstan, son of Hugh de Montfort. The homage and services of
certain tenants, with the advowson and patronage of the Priory, he granted to
William de Cantelupe. With the Montforts it remained for some time. From
them it passed to William Beauchamp, lord Bergavenny, to whom the other
part of the estate passed from the Cantelupes in like manner, as we have
stated in Aston Cantloe. The same Peter de Stodley enfeoffed the then vicar
of the parish in the manor, together with pasturage for a horse, called a hackney,
in a meadow, called Castle Meadow, reserving a yearly rent of three broad
arrowheads to the chief Lord of the Fee, for all services. This Peter had a
daughter, Felicia, wife to John Barret, of Shelfield, to whom the said vicar
assigned his rights in gth Richard II. Their daughter and heiress, married to
- Atwode, had also a daughter, wife of — Hunt, in Henry VIII's reign, from
whom the Hunts, possessors of the old castle, derived their descent. This
portion of the manor came afterwards into the hands of the Lyttletons; and,
through them, descended to Sir F. L. H. Goodri eke, baronet, who largely increased
the estate.

Another large portion of this parish is that formerly possessed by the Canons
of

THE PRIORY.

An establishment dedicated to St. Maty, and founded in the time of king Stephen,
by Peter de Corbuson, or de Stodley, for Canons Regular of St. Augustine,
first at a place called Wicton, in Worcestershire ; but soon afterwards removed
here. He amply endowed the house with lands, houses, salt furnaces, and the
advowsons of several churches; but as the fortunes of his family waned, so did
the means of the Priory decay, until there were only three Canons on the
foundation, when granted to WTilliam de Cantelupe and his heirs. From this
time till the dissolution of monastic establishments, the Priors and Canons of
this house prospered. The Cantelupes largely increased their revenues and
patronage. The}' built a hospital near the gate of the monastery, where impotent
people might have relief and entertainment; and granted lands at Aston Canteloe,
of ten pounds yearly value, for its support and maintenance. William, son of
the above William de Cantelupe, besides many other grants of lands and immu-

(3.) Is' now a farm at Mapltborough Greeti, and still called "The Haye."

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

67

nities, obtained for them, 26th Henry III, a charter "that their woods, lying
within the Forest of Feckenham, might be free to themselves, and no officer
of the king's belonging to the forest to intermeddle therein, nor press upon
them for hospitality, or entertainment, without their own good liking." At the
Inquisition taken, 8th Edward I, at Stratford, referred to at p. 50, the jurors
presented that the Prior of Studley and the Templars Hospitallers impede justice
by preventing the king's bailiffs performing their office within their liberties.
Also that the Prior of Studley had appropriated about half an acre of land in
the village of Ipsley for five years past.(*)

The above and various other grants of lands and privileges, from different
proprietors in the neighbourhood, (4) yielded them such ample revenues, that, at
the Dissolution, they were certified according to the Archer MSS., to be worth
I25/. 4.?. &/. per annum over and above all reductions. Speed gives the gross
valuation at i8i/. 3.9. 6^., Dugdale at iijl. is. id. John Yardley, the then Prior,
was granted an annuity of i$l. a year for his life. The site, with this portion
of the manor of Studley, was shortly afterwards granted to Sir Edward Knightley,

sergeant at law, who dying, 34tli Henry VIII, left his estates to the five
daughters of his brother, this portion of them coming to Joane, the wifi
John Knottesford, sergeant at arms, in whose family it continued till the death
of John Knottesford, Esq., in 1781. It was, after this, purchased by the Kmgh

(4, At the Dissolution they had large possessions in Donnington Shottewell, Whe.t£y, &c, in Warwick
Studley, and various properties at Welvington, Great and as also the like m oth
Little Alne, Aston Cantloe, Coughton, Alcester, Sambourne,

68 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

of Barrells, and is now the property of Mrs. Gooch, daughter of the late Robert
Knight, Esq., obi it 1855. The following were the Priors of the house: —

Fromundus, in the reijfn ot Stephen.
Roger, time of Henry III.
John de Souche, July 10, 1338.
John de Gorcote.

John de Evesham, January 9, 1371.
Robert Wynby, September 27, 1431.
Thomas Bedull, time of Henry VI.
Richard Wode, March 8, 1454.
John Yardly, 26th Henry VIII.

The site of the Priory is approached from the village by an avenue of
fine elms. The remains of the Priory have been built up, and now form the
gable of a modern farm house, still called "The Priory." They consist of a
portion and the side and arch of what was once a window of the chapel.
They stand, with a large garden and farm buildings, in a moated enclosure,
the river Arrow forming part of it, and supplying the other portion with water,
where not filled in. Part of it is bordered by some very lofty and graceful
willows; and its extent, which is easily defined, shows that the religious com
munity located here had no lack of worldly goods, a well-wooded, park-like
ground still surrounding the place.

In proceeding to the Church we pass over the river Arrow, close to a
large mill used in the manufacture of needles, on the site of which, most
probably, stood the one belonging to the Knights Templars, given to them by
Peter de Stodley.

THE CHURCH

Is situated on an eminence, nearly a mile from the village. It is dedicated to
the Virgin Mary, and was given to the Prior and Canons of Studley by Peter

THE FOREST OF ARDEN, ^

de Corbuson, or de Stodley, and remained with them till the dissolution of
their house. In Dugdale's time the windows contained the arms of Montfort
Attwood, Edgebaston, and Middlemore, formerly proprietors in the parish One
of the latter family, 7th Henry IV, viz. Thomas Middlemore, of Edgbaston
founded, in this church, a chantry chapel, for a priest to say mass daily at the
altar of the Blessed Virgin, on the south part of the said church, for the health
of his soul and his ancestors. This he endowed with eighty acres of land ten
of meadow, and 13*. ql. yearly rent, all being in Studley, the revenues amounting,
26th Henry VIII, to 4/. 135. 4^. ; which sum was yearly received by the priest
of Mr. Robert Middlemore, notwithstanding he did not duly attend here, but
sung in other places at his pleasure. This chantry was then returned as under:

CHANTRY FOUNDED AT STUDELEY.

"Sir Martin Marten, Custodian of the Chantry founded in the parochial Church there.
And it is worth in lands and tenements within the demesne of Studeley annually t& iw id
The tenth part of this sum * ' * ' .

The Church Goods, 6th Edward VI, were much more limited in number
than in many of the parishes we have quoted, viz :

It'm there j chalice & iij belles, one cope velvett. One albe.(+)

In i9th Edward I, the living was valued at fifteen and a half marks ; and,
in 26th Henry VIII, it was rated at 8/., being the stipend paid by the Canons
of the Priory. It is now returned as of the value of ic>3/. The Rev. W.
Godfrey is the present incumbent.

The edifice consists of a low embattled tower, nave, south aisle, and chancel.
Under the west window of the tower, a large obtuse-arched doorway has been
cut, which forms the entrance to the church, the north and south doorways
being rilled up. The south doorway, with a pointed arch, had formerly a porch,
which has been removed, but the north entrance still preserves a beautiful
Norman arch, with zig-zag moulding, springing from plain round pillars with
sculptured capitals. (5) Eastward of this are two pointed arched windows of
three lights, and in the south aisle are windows corresponding in design. On
each side of the chancel are two small pointed windows, the south one of which
has been partly cut away, to form a doorway to a modern built vestry-room.

(5.) "It is interesting to notice how very reluctant our creased skill they had at their command. How very

forefathers were to destroy all traces of their predecessors' frequently a Norman doorway or font, carefully preserved,

pious munificence, though anxious themselves to rebuild alone remains to attest the piety of a past generation."

the church with additional splendour, and with the in- —Brandon's Parish Churches, vol. i, p. 61.

(*) Valor Ecclesiasticus. (+) Papers in Record Office.

7o THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

There are two larger ones of two lights, under pointed arches north and south,
at the east end. The east window is a depressed arch of three lights. The
nave and aisle, as well as the chancel, have all high ridged tile roofs, in the
former two of which, three ugly dormer windows have been inserted.

In the interior, the nave is divided from the aisle by two octagonal pillars
supporting three pointed arches, and separated from the tower and chancel by
arches of like character. With the exception of a piscina in the south wall of
the chancel, there is nothing of architectural interest. The windows of the
chancel are all filled with coloured glass and figured quarries, the gift, as an
inscription on one commemorates, of the lay-Rector, Robert Knight, Esq., of
Barrells, 1847. The chancel contains several tablets and monumental slabs to
the memory of various members of the families of Knottesford, Petre, Phillips,
Lyttelton, and Knight. In the nave and aisle are others to those of Chambers,
Hardy, Dewes, and Holyoke. The font is a modern work and placed near to
the pulpit. There are five bells in the tower, all bearing date 1688.

In the churchyard are several ancient tombs, the inscriptions obliterated.
There is one at the end of the chancel to the memory of John Knottesford,
Esq., obi it May 10, 1781, "the last of a family, possessors of considerable
property in the parish upwards of two hundred years." There is also a large
vault on the north of the chancel, with stone canopy, the burial place of the
Goodrickes. An ancient sundial lies prostrate in the church-yard, apparently
the head of a former buttress to the church.

The living is a vicarage returned at £136. The Rev. J. S. Turner, the
present vicar.

Passing out of the church-yard and adjoining it on the north, is the site of
the ancient Castle of Studley, built by William, son of William de Corbuson,
or one of his descendants, most likely in the early part of the reign of king
Stephen, who granted license to many of his subjects to build castles within
their own grounds, A.D. 1135-40. As no record, however, containing mention
of this edifice subsequent to that date exists, it is probable that it was demolished
in the first of Henry II, 1154, when, according to Hollinshed, it was ordered
"that all those castles, which, contrary to all reason and good order, had been
made and builded by any manner of persons in the days of king Stephen,
should be overthrown and cast down, which were found to be eleven hundred
and fifteen."(6)

Leland, writing in the time of Henry VIII, says, "The Lord Corporson,

(6) Many castles and holds were built by licenses from conversion into dwelling houses of noblemen, their

King Stephen, but, after his decease, Henry II caused martial fronts being removed, so that at the present

them to tie destroyed. Since that time also, not a few of there are very few or no castles at all maintained within

those which remained have decayed, partly by com- England, saving only on the coast, &c. — Hollinshtd, vol.

tuaiHluu-tit of Hetiry III and partly of themselves; or by i, 327.

c'fi

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

that was founder of Studley Abbey, had a fair maner place half a mile thens "•

Of th,s building no trace remains except the moat" now dried or fi led ip

though persons living remember part of it full of water

standinswithin this inclosnre is aLf-timbered

tilltail d^hVoMC rt^T ^ """ '"^ " is '^ b'"'

Old Castle," of no interest to the antiquary; and was formerly

^residence of the Holyokes, ancestors of the late Sir £'£ H.
mode!"

STUDLEY CASTLE,

Constnicted with towers, keep, turrets, courts, and halls, with the varied
accessories usual in buildings of this character in ancient times. It was erected
by the late Sir Francis Lyttleton Holyoke Goodricke, under the contract of
Grisell and Peto. The engraving will give a correct idea of the general design
of the building, the park, gardens and pleasure grounds around which are
extensive. The views from the fronts of the castle, and from various spots in
the park, will be found of a fine and extensive character, reaching to the hills
of the Lickey and Great Malvern. The castle and estate are now the property
of T. E. Walker, Esq.

The village of Studley is large, and keeps increasing in population and
prosperity, for besides its agricultural wealth, it carries on a large trade in

Itlneraty, vi, 74.

,*'

72 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

branches of the needle manufacture. It is situated on the turnpike road leading
from Birmingham to Alcester, about four miles from the latter place, and six
from the point of our departure on this day's tour. It contains a neat Catholic
Chapel, and other places of worship belonging to various classes of Protestant
Dissenters. A very neat and substantial schoolhouse and master's residence
have of late years been built in the village, on land given by the late Robert
Knight, Esq. which are found of great benefit to the poorer inhabitants.

Leaving the village, and proceeding, over another bridge, on the turnpike
road towards Birmingham, we soon come to one of its hamlets, an ancient
manor, called

MAPLEBOROUGH GREEN,

Formerly an open waste but now inclosed, having a few farm houses and
cottage-dwellings thereon. It was part of William Corbuson's estate, held of
him by Goisfridus, and contained one hide, and a wood one furlong wide
and the like in length, altogether of the value of 155-. and, beforetime, the
property of Lcviet. This was the manor referred to as "The Have" in
Studley. In igth. Richard II. it had come into the possession of Thomas
Middlemore, of Edgbaston, and was then certified to consist of two messuages,
four hundred acres of land, sixty acres of meadow, and i/. 8s. in rents. All
these were in the possession of John Middlemore, of Edgbaston, in loth.
Henry VI, and remained long the property of his posterity. They have
since passed into various hands; T. E. Walker, Esq., is lord of the manor.

On turning from this place, to the right, where the roads to Redditch and
Heniey-in-Arden intersect the turnpike road, we have before us the grounds
and woodlands of

SKILTS,

Another ancient manor of Studley, and formerly a grange or farm belonging to
its Priory, called Skyllus Grange, The first notice of this place appears in
a petition to the Bishop of Worcester, by Thomas Atwode, styling himself
heir in blood to Peter de Stodley, the founder of the house. In this he
complains that Thomas Bedull, the then Prior, temp. Henry VI, kept at Skilts
a paramour, viz : Joan, wife to John Green, with her husband's connivance, to
which Joan he frequently resorted in secular apparel, allowing her wheat, malt,
wool, and other articles, whereby the Monastery was much impoverished. The
contiguity of the Priory to this grange, and the lonely and unfrequented nature
of the neighbouring country, most probably led to the selection of this place by
the Prior.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

This part of the manor came, in the division of the estates of the Knightleys
34th Henry VIII, (as before stated in the account of Studley,) to James Duffyld,'
in right of Frances, his wife, who sold it in 1549, to William East and others'
together with a fifth part of the manor of Studley. In 1560, it was again sold
to William Sheldon, Esq., of Beoley, and at that time comprised two messuages
six hundred acres of land, sixty acres of meadow, six hundred of pasture, one
hundred and twenty of wood, and one hundred of heath and furze; all of which
he imparked for deer, and, on the south side thereof, built a very beautiful
house of brick. From this family it came, by descent and sale, to other pro
prietors, and is now the property of Sir John Jaffray, Bart., and his son resides,
at SKILTS HOUSE, which has been considerably enlarged and much improved'.
Standing on an eminence, it is seen from a distance on the south, and commands
many most extensive views of a district of country extending over Studley, and
far beyond Alcester.

THE CHURCH.

A Church has been erected near to Mapleboro' Green, by W. Jaffray, Esq.,
of Skilts House, in memory of his wife, Mabel, the daughter of Sir Francis
Scott, Baronet, of Great Barr, from the design of Mr. J. A. Chatwin, of Bir
mingham, and is of the early English type, consisting of nave, side aisles, and
chancel, with, at the west end, a massive tower, twenty-one feet in the square
and seventy in height. The entrance to the Church is by a south porch, and
the whole external structure is of Bromsgrove stone, and the interior of Harbury
stone, with Bromsgrove dressings. The tower is separated from the nave by a
lofty arch, under which is placed the font. The north chancel aisle forms an
organ chamber, and that on the south designed as a memorial chapel.

Another member of Studley, called HOLT, consisted of the lands held by
the Knights Templars, and afterwards by the Knights Hospitallers. This, at

L

74 THE FOREST OF ARDEX.

also came mto rjossessBon OB ^MT Avd^Paru J^aii^Btte
r, jrd Edward VI, of Henry Rishton, Esq., and was tbei

and capital messuage of f/t&. viA Ac appurtenances in

_^ t - . _^^^__^^_ ^^^ _ ^^^^^^^^ .— ^^^— *^" L_^I c&v «^~ — , . i

consxsDng OB two messuages, ••HTT nvnareo. acres OB tana, any OB meadow, two

bequeathed to John, his ami and heir: and. in Ac mat generation, it was aid

to Sir John SimthniMth, Fa%>i It is stzH nUnf ~Ar BUt JFtrmS A

of Stndley . the mimulj of Ac Caatefopes, was called PADOKGKE, but

The |im>ula'km of Studhj, with its members, in 1891 was 2566,. having
iat if iiu d 574 since 1841, when Ae numbers were 1992. la the reign of

hilL rrom which a fine viev of Worcestershire, the

the Lkkey. and the Mataeni HiDs, is obtained, we cone to a port of the SkOts

descending the hfll towjHb Oidberrow. we pass ever the little *™f of Worces
tershire before spoken ol, and proceeding OB one side of BazreHs Park, we

A hamlet of Ae parish of Wootton Wawen. This place was also mat of
Ae pnmraiims of Waga. before Ae Cimam il, and it was given, after that
event, with Wootton. to Robert de Stafford. It was then called H&kmb, ami
< iml Jim il one hide, Ae woods being half a mme lam; and a furlong broad.
value 4/- From this Robert. Roger. Earl of Warwick, obtained it, ami he granted
it in fee to one Roger, who took his name final the flm In this femOr k
nmiiaiil till Ae time of Edward I, when Robert, SOB of WUHam de Oimhall.
held the fourth pm of a knight s lee of the Eari of Warwick^ It afterwards
became the property of Ae Mootforts. and fefl to the crown by the
of Sir Simon de Mondort, Knight, in Ae loth Henry VOL He

- -"" > n " !*".:":" It

Sir Peter had certain issue by one Lora de UDenhale. daughter of ffiihad
Asdey. of this himlil, and he teak care for their advancement by bequeathing
to them this and other estates. &r John oV Moedbrt, ms eldest soa by this
cnam •••, having married Joo^ danghter and heiress to Sir John de Cfinton,
Knight, owner of the lordship of ColeshOL settled there, and his ^milv remained
in pramnnkai of UllrahJI till Ae attainder in Henry YITs time. By the crown,
at this period, the mminr mu j,iiiiii i to Genid; Earl of Kildare, and Efizabeth

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. ?5

St. John his wife. From them it descended to their son, Sir James Fitzgerald
Knight; bnt, in ist Mary, came again to the crown by his attainder It was
then granted by the qneen to Michael Throckmorton, Esq., youngest son of Sir
Robert Throckmorton, of Conghton, Knight, in whose family it remained till
purchased by Mr Bolton, citizen of London. It came into the possession,
afterwards, of the Knights, of Luxborough, in the county of Essex (7) From
them, it descended through Robert, Earl of Catherlough, to the late Robert
Knight, Esq., on whose death, in 1855, this portion of the estates was sold to
various proprietors, the manor of Ullenhall, and mansion of Barrells
purchased by the late William Newton, Esq.

THE CHURCH,

Dedicated to St. Mary, stands on a considerable elevation, and may be seen for
miles on the east and south. In the year 1256, Taurinus, Prior of Wootton,
granted the tithes of corn here to William de Romesty for eighteen marks. The
Church Goods found here were, temp. Edward VI,

j chalice & j bell,
one vestment dornix.
one cope dornix.
ij towells.
one altarclothe.

The building, which Dugdale calls a "fair Chapel," consists of a nave,
chancel, south porch, and a timber-framed belfry, containing two bells, with a
turret or cupola over, resting on the roof of the nave. The nave and chancel
are lighted by lancet and ogee windows, and have a ridged roof of equal height.

(7.) The familv descended from Nicholas Knight, of Barrells. In 1682, William Knight, barrister-at-law, was
Beoley, in the county of Worcester i ist Richard in). living at Barrells, having a brother, Edmund, of London,
William Knight, obilt 1580, being the first resident at mercer.— Herald's I'isitation, Col. Arms, k, iii.

76 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

The eastern window is a pointed arch of three lights. The gables of the nave
and porch are each surmounted with a cross. The interior presents no very
interesting features, the roofs of both nave and chancel having been covered
with a coved ceiling in 1755, and the chapel seated with high pews, those in
the chancel being nearly five feet in height. These with the unsightly gallery,
and the two dormer windows in the roof of the nave, completely spoil the
appearance of what might be made a very neat place of worship. The chancel
is separated from the nave by a pointed arch, the half pillars, or piers, of which
have been cut from the wall. A small portion of the rood screen remains.
There is a piscina and locker in the south wall of the chancel, and the east and
two side windows are filled with coloured quarries, the gift of Robert Knight,
Esq. Over the east window are the arms of Knight, painted on a shield. The
communion rails are modern, bearing date 1820, the old ones, in the style found
in many churches in the neighbourhood, being used as a balustrade to the
stairs of the gallery at the west end. The porch arch is blocked up, and the
porch serves for a small vestry or robing room. The font is an octagon in
shape, and plain. In the chancel is a large mural monument to the Throck-
mortons, owners of the manor after the time of Edward VI, and another to the
Earl of Cathelough. A small tablet, south of the east window, records the
births and deaths of various members of this family, whose remains were
removed from the mausoleum in Barrells Park, on the 3Oth of October, 1830,
and deposited in a vault here. In 1875, the belfry and nave were razed, and
the chancel left as a mortuary chapel, a larger church nearer to the village
having been built by the Newton family, "In Memoriam."

This consists of a belfry, tower, and spire, a nave and apsidal chancel, but
not separated by the usual arch, the roof being of continuous elevation. To
the nave there are lean-to aisles, and to the chancel, transept aisles. The
exterior of the church is of Campden stone, with Bath dressings. The windows
of the aisles and apse are lancets arcaded internally. The interior contains
pulpit, organ, and sittings for two hundred and forty persons. The ceilings are
coved and boarded, with moulded ribs and bosses. The church is in the
decorated style, and was erected according to the plans supplied by Mr. John
P. Seddon, of Westminster. The Chapelry formerly went with the vicarage of
Wootton Wawen. It has been separated, and made a distinct living, T. H. G.
Newton, Esq., being now the patron. It is valued at no/., and the Rev. M. R.
West is the present Vicar.

The population in 1841 was returned with Wootton. In 1891 there were
in Ullenhall and Aspley 508 persons. In 1563 there were forty-four families.

The hamlet of Ullenhall is extensive in acreage, and numerous farm houses
are scattered about its length and breadth, for a distance of three or four miles.
Situate northward, are three other members of Wootton, viz., Aspley, Forde Hall,

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 77

and Mockley, but not of sufficient interest to tempt the traveller out of his way
to examine them. The early history of these places, as separate manors, is all
that is now known.

ASPLEY.

The first mention of this manor appears to be in the 5th Henry III, when
Robert de Chaucumbe was lord of it. Gilbert de Segrave, who had married
Annabil, one of the coheiresses of this Robert, in the 26th of the same reign,
became lord, and obtained a charter of free-warren, having an ancient manor
house and park here. He departing this life, she granted it to John de Somery,
a son by a second husband, on conditions of his paying to her, and her son
Nicholas de Segrave, and his heirs, a pair of gilt spurs, or sixpence annually.
The manor afterwards returned to the Segraves, and was in possession of Lord
Berkeley, 26th Henry VIII. It was the property of John Sanders, of Honily,
in .1698.

FORDE HALL.

The above John de Somery, in the early part of the reign of Edward I,
granted this place to one Roger de la Forde, of Aspley, and Agatha his
wife, and their heirs, at a rent of one shilling yearly. Hence it came to be
called Forde Hall, and, i3th Richard II, was called a manor, one Robert
Foulehurst being then lord. It came, about the time of Henry VIII, to John
Fullwode, second son to Robert Fullwode, of Clay Hall, in the parish of
Tanworth. The registers of the Bishops of Worcester, November i3th, 1390,
record that the then Bishop (Wakefield) granted a house to Robert Fouleshurst,
for holding divine service for two years in his oratory within the manor of
Forde, in the parish of Warnes Wotton, and afterwards by one of the coheiresses
of another John Fullwode, grandson of the above-named John, it fell, by
partition, to Grace, one of six daughters, married to Angel Grey, Esq. This
and Aspley subsequently came into possession of numerous proprietors, and
several neat residences have lately been erected by the present owners of the
property.

MOCKLEY.

It is considered probable that the lands granted by Robert de Stafford to
the Priory of Wootton, lay in this place, hence Monklce, The possessions
of that Priory were given by Henry VI, to King's College, Cambridge, and
these at Mockley have been enjoyed by the Provost and Scholars of that
college to the present time.

Leaving Ullenhall, and travelling southwards, we shall now visit

78 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

BARRELLS,

Or Barrels, on the right of the road skirting the Park, on our return to
Henley. What the old Hall may have been is not known; but that it was
of no great pretensions, though, perhaps, equal to others of that day, is
obvious from the letters of Lady Luxborough,(8) who resided here from 1739
to 1756, and who, being a person of great taste and judgment, made many
improvements. Shenstone the Poet, to whom these letters were written, describes
her as a lady of "abundant ease, politeness, and vivacity, in which she was
scarce equalled by any woman of her time." She remarks, in one letter,
April 28th, 1748, that "good carving is too fine for my humble roof. The
room, consider, is only hung with sixpenny paper, and is so low that I have
but five inches between Pope's head and the motto over it." But though she
could not do much with the house, she appears to have been constantly adding
to, or improving the grounds and garden round. We read of her Hermitage,
Pheasant Yards, Flower Gardens, Bowling Green, Stable Court, (honoured
with Mrs. Kendall's coach and six,) the stuccoing of her Summer House, by
Mr. Wright of Worcester; also the making of the "Ha-ha," the Serpentine,
and the Service Walks; the middle walk from whence you now see Claverdon;
the planting of the lane which joins the coppice, and of twenty-seven good
straight elms in the lower part of the long walk; also of the Piping Faun in
the double-oak, and of the erection of statues and urns in the pleasure grounds,
one of the latter to the memory of Somervile the Poet, (9) once her neighbour
at Edstone, the inscription on which she testifies great anxiety about. All
these agreeable devices, which the countess had gathered round her previous
to her death in 1756, have long ago disappeared. A poetical description of
them, by the Vicar of Coughton, making some little allowance for the exuberant
fancy of the author, will not, however, be out of place here; and, although,
perhaps, a somewhat flattering, .may nevertheless, be accepted as a tolerably
accurate account of Barrells, in its then state, or as it was in her ladyship's
time. The lines occur in the " Dedication of a Pastoral Elegy to Lady
Luxborough, by Mr. Perks, of Coughton, corrected by Parson Allen,"(io) and
are to the following effect:

(8.) The Honourable Henrietta St. John, wife of Robert, neighbours; for she tells Shenstone that she "thinks it

Earl of Catherlough, Viscount Barrells, and Baron Lux- [the urn] would be better done at Warwick, than it can

borough, of Shannon, in the Kingdom of Ireland. She be by the fools at Henley." She speaks also of the then

was the sister of Henry, Viscount Bolingbroke, principal Henley Incumbent as "Parson Hall, the little round, fat,

Secretary of State to Queen Anne, A.D. 1710. oily man of* God," also of an "ill-natured rascal who is

a weekly carrier from Henley to Warwick."

(9.) She is not very complimentary to her Henley

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. ^

"Here fragrant flow'rs refresh the musing fair
Whilst zephyrs waft their odours thro' the air
Luxuriant shoots, with one united blow
Rival the colours of the various bow.
The warbling songsters, on the blossom'd thorn
Stretch their melodious throats, and wake the morn.
The bee laborious, hums around the bower,
And sips the balmy sweets of ev'ry flower.'

is thus the varied scene treats every sense;
Displays the charms of youth and innocence.

Within, new objects strike the wond'ring eye,
And strokes of sculpture with the pencil vie:
Here breathing shadows each apartment grace,
And meagre bustos show their marble face.
The robed Peer, full drawn, majestic stands,
And mimic miniature in motley bands.
There nature's sports, from India's distant shore,
Or dress'd in lighter moss, or clad in ore!
See heaps of shells, old Ocean's glossy store,
Have left their briny cells, and weep no more;
Beneath the rolling wave no longer sleep,
Swept from the rocks and caverns of the deep:
Some skilful hand the pleasing task pursues,
And adds new lustre to their native hues.
The grotto's pride, when gaily interchang'd,
They shine, in regular confusion rang'd.
But O! the loveliest sight is yet conceal'd,
By human art never to be excell'd!
Here ev'ry flow'r that decks th' enamell'd meads,
Or thro' the grove its vernal beauty spreads,
In lively tints— so natnral, so true,
A piece more perfect Titian never drew.
Thus Taste polite, and Judgment more refin'd,
Feast the admiring eye, and cultivate the mind."

Nothing- remains externally to show what the Hall was even at a somewhat
later period, excepting the north end of the West Front, with its pediment
decorated with the arms of the Earl of Catherlough ; for the Hall was, in the
latter part of the last century, greatly altered by the late Robert Knight, Esq.
The south front, having a lofty portico, supported on fluted columns with
Corinthian capitals, was then erected, and the grounds kept in good order,
till the breaking up of the establishment, after which period the hall, gardens,
and grounds, were so neglected that it might, with truth, be said of the former
glories of the place,

"Sunk are thy towers in shapeless ruin all,
And the long grass o'ertops the mouldering wall."

The property is now possessed by T. H. G. Newton, Esq., whose father took
down the portico, and built a lofty central hall, and a connecting block of
buildings between the main house and the offices. The present proprietor has
added a spacious conservatory on the west front, through which is now the
principal entrance, and has built a new wing on the east.

(10.) The Rev. William Perks was Vicar of Coughton Spernal from 1728 to 1753.
from 1717 to 1767, and the Rev. Thomas Allen Rector of

8o

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Returning eastward, through the extensive park, along the long walk,
the road rises up a short hill, surmounted by a large clump of trees. In
this formerly stood a mausoleum(n) wherein several members of the family
of Knight had been interred: This was taken down in 1830, and the bodies
it contained removed to the vault before spoken of, in the chancel of Ullenhall
Chapel, where a small tablet records their memories, thus:

Viscountess St. John, B. 2=ith February, '723, D. 6th March, 1752.

Josiah Kussell, B. 1674, D. 7th May, 1755.

Baroness Luxborough, B. i-th July, 1699, D. 26th March, 1756.

Honble. Henry Knight, B. 25th December, 1728, D. i,«;th August, 1762. S.P.

Countess Duroure, B. zist November, 1729, D. ist March, 1763.

Elizabeth Powell, B. ;th January, 169?, D. nth March, 1765.

Caroline Knight, B. 2oth July, 1772, IX 22:id August, 1772.

Henry Knight, B. 24th May, 1795, D. i4th November, 1800.

Count Duroure, B. 6th February, '7^3, 1>. 24th September, 1822. S.P.

BAKRELLS (WBST FRONT).

' The place thereof knoweth it no more ! " So much for human greatness.
Musing on the " vain, transitory splendours " of which this mansion has been
the scene, we wend our way homewards; and, reaching the road adjoining
Hungril, by which we set out, we return to Henley-in-Arden, and so finish
our second day's ramble.

"Lord Catherlough, son of the famous Mr. Knight, who were removed from their vaultS'-Gibson's Camden,

the South Sea Company, has a seat at Barrels ii. 342. They were brought from the chantry chapel of

?«i, about three miles off [Wootton], and built a tower Wootton Wawen.
iu his grounds for his own burial, and that of his family,

AVING visited the places south' of Henley-in-Arden, we
may now proceed to those lying northward, viz., Botley,
Tanworth, Salter Street, Umberslade, and Nuthurst, with
their members. To do so we must journey for about a
mile on the Birmingham road, after which taking the
first turn on the left, we shall next reach

BOTLEY,

Now comprising an ancient farm house, opposite to which is a mill, and
another farmstead, bearing the same name, but in a different parish. The
manor of Botley, being a member of Wootton Wawen, was reckoned with that
parish in Domesday Survey. Dugdale considers it to have been of much
greater antiquity than this record, from its Saxon name Botle, which is
equivalent to Domus in Latin. Robert de Stafford gave certain land in this
place, temp. Henry II, to the Canons of Kenilworth, with the homages and
services of several persons. He gave also, to Geoffry Malore and his heirs,
all those lands, homages, and services, which he held of him here, reserving
the payment of a sparrowhawk to himself and heirs. From this Geoffry, it
descended to John Malore, who, gth Edward III, obtained a grant of free-
warren on all his lands here, as well as on other manors. From him descended
another John, who with Ankitell, his son and heir, alienated it to Richard
Archer, Esq., and his heirs, by deed, 22nd Henry VI. In the family of Archer
it continued till the death of Lord Archer, of Umberslade, when it came, in
the subdivision of the estates, to one of his daughters, wife of E. B. Clive, Esq.,
who sold it to Bolton King, Esq., in whose possession it remains.

There is nothing to detain the traveller at Botley, the mill being but a
modern building, whilst the farm house opposite, though of considerable
antiquity, presents no deviation from the style of half-timbered dwellings
deserving of special notice.

The road leads on to Dansey Green, a cluster of houses very common in
this part of the county: adjacent are several houses, now attached to farms,

M

82 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

whose names, Bicker scottrt, &c., once designated some particular manors, or
members of the parish of Tan worth, of more note than at present. Leaving
these, and at the distance of four miles from Henley, occupying an elevated
site stands the village of

TANWORTH.

The church to which is a conspicuous object from the road which the
traveller will pursue. The first mention of the place dates from the latter
end of the reign of Henry I, when Simon, Bishop of Worcester, confirmed to
the Canons of Kenilworth, the chapel of Tancwrtha, which had been given to
them by Roger, Earl of Warwick. This extensive parish had long been a
member of Brailes, in the hundred of Kineton, and was, at the Domesday
Survey, included in the enumeration of Brailes, in which it is stated, there
were, at that time, forty-six hides of land, and woods three miles long by
two broad, the latter of which Dugdale considers was chiefly in Tanworth.
Before the Conquest, these lands were the property of the Earl of Mercia; but after
their seizure by the king they were transferred to Henry de Newbtirgh, when he
had been raised to the earldom of Warwick. Tanworth continued in the possession
of succeeding Earls of this family till the gth John, when it was assigned as dower
to Alice, widow of Earl Waleran, for her life, and afterwards, in like manner,
to Ela, widow of Earl Thomas, 26th Henry III. In i3th Edward I, it had
returned again to the Earls; for, in that year, William de Beauchamp, then Earl
of Warwick, claimed court leet, assize of bread and beer, free-warren, gallows,
infaugthef,(i) tumbrel, and waifs, within Tanworth, by prescription.

At an inquisition held at Stratford-on-Avon, the 8th of this reign, it was
presented by the jurors that William de Morteyn took of William de Hayles,
captive for the death of Thomas Dumbel, whom he killed, ten marks for
delivering him, and admitted him, with certain of his neighbours, to bail;
that afterwards Walter de Winterton came and gave them forty shillings for
having him, to the damage of the king, and that the said William passed his
land in Tonavorth to the said Walter.* Also that William de Morteyn took of
Richard, son of William de Merston, imprisoned for felony, five marks to let
him go free, and that he said he was dead while yet alive.t

In Qth Edward II, Tanworth was in the king's hands during the minority
of Thomas, son of Guy de Beauchamp, and was then valued at 34/. i6.y. ^d.
per annum. As part of the property of the earldom of Warwick, it remained
till the 3rd of Henry VII, when it reverted, with the other possessions of the
family, to the crown.

(i.) Infangthef was the liberty granted to lords of • Rot. Hund., ii, 227. + Ibid, ii, 228.

certain manors, to judge any thief taken within their fee.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 83

In 24th of this reign John Wylaston, Esq., was farmer of all the king's lands,

tenements, and mills at this place, let by indentures for the term of

years, by John Walshe, Esq., lately the king's supervisor there, at a rental of
32/., which he paid over to Thomas Godeman, the king's receiver.*

Tanworth was next granted, for 6^1. i6s. 2d., by Henry VIII, 36th of
his reign, to Sir George Throckmorton, knight, to be held in capite, by the
twentieth part of a knight's fee. With them it continued till it was sold by
Thomas Throckmorton, Esq., and James I, to Andrew Archer, Esq., of whose
estate it formed a part up to the death of Lord Archer, when, through default
of male issue, it became the portion of one of his coheiresses, married to E.
B. Clive, Esq., who sold it, in 1826, to E. Bolton King, Esq., who is the
present lord of the manor of Tanworth. A considerable portion of the land in
Tanworth belongs to Earl Amherst, the descendant of another daughter of Lord
Archer.

THE CHURCH,

Dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, was, originally, a Chapel belonging to
Brailes. It was, temp. Henry I, granted to the Canons of Kenilworth ; but in
the 3rd of John, we find that it was designated a Church. At this time an
arrangement was made, between these Canons and Waleran, Earl of Warwick,
by virtue of which it was agreed that, on the living becoming void, the earl
and his heirs shoiild nominate a clerk to the canons, by them to be presented
for induction to the bishop, and that the canons should receive from the
incumbent, so presented, a yearly pension of two marks, in two payments, and
a stone of wax on Candlemas day, for ever, which were afterwards regularly
paid. All the glebe, however, was not given at the first foundation; for, temp.
Henry III, Walter, the son of Peter de Wolvardington, granted a messuage,
with the appurtenances, in Tanworth, to Richard Lungspe and his successors.
In igth Edward I, the living was valued at fifty marks; but in gth
Edward II, at only thirty. At this latter period, it constituted part of the
dowry of Alice, widow of Guy de Beauchamp. In i4th Edward III, the
interest of the canons and earl passed to William de Clinton, Earl of Huntingdon,
the canons reserving to themselves and their successors the pension of two
marks and a stone of wax per annum. It was at this time that a messuage,
adjoining the church-yard, and forming part of the glebe, was granted to the
canons by Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. The transfer to the Earl
of Huntingdon, and the new grant to the canons, were both confirmed by the
king. The Earl of Huntingdon bestowed the advowson on his newly-founded
Priory of Maxstoke, in this county. The canons of this establishment obtained

• Papers, " Warwick," in Record Office.

84 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

the appropriation of the Earl's gift, from Wolstan, Bishop of Worcester. By
this instrument, the vicar was to receive a competent portion of the funds of
the church, amounting to twenty marks per annum; whilst the two marks
and stone of wax were to be paid, as heretofore, annually to the Canons of
Kenilworth; together with a pension of two marks per annum to the Bishop
of Worcester and his successors, and another of twenty shillings yearly to the
Prior and Monks of Worcester.

In a6th Henry VIII, the Rectory of Tanworth was valued at 3/. 13^. $d.
per annum, the sum at which it was then let, and the Vicarage of 61. iy. ^d.
They were given, 3Oth of the same reign, by the king, to Charles Brandon,
Duke of Suffolk, who conveyed the former to his grandson, Robert Trapps.
William Powlett, son of Lord George Powlett, by Mary, daughter of a son of
the said Robert Trapps, sold it, 44th Elizabeth, to Andrew Archer, Esq. The
advowson of the Vicarage had been purchased by him, in the 2yth of the
same reign. It is now in the gift of Earl Amherst, the representative of one
of the coheiresses of the Archer family, and is returned at the value of 5oo/.
The rectorial tithes belong to E. Bolton King, Esq., as Lay Rector.

In the return of Church Goods,* 6th Edward VI, it is stated that there
were at Tonworth,

j chalice & iiij belles, and sannce bell.

viij vestments, iiij silke, iiij dornix.

ij copes, silke.

ij crosses, mastulen.

ij crose, clothes.

ij censors, mastulen.

a payre orgayns.

The Church of Tanworth stands on a conspicuous eminence ; this causes
it to appear, as we approach it from Henley, of great altitude, which is not the
case on a nearer inspection. The edifice consists of tower and spire, nave,
aisles, and chancel. The tower contains a pointed belfry window on each face,
but has no large western window or doorway. It is surmounted by a small
and plain parapet, within which springs a simple octagonal spire. The spire
was partly taken down in 1720, and restored a few feet higher than the old
one. The south aisle contains three small windows of three lights, traces of
one partly destroyed, and one at the east end. The porch entrance has been
walled up, and a small window placed in the upper part of it, a barbarism
which has been repeated in the northern aisle, doorways being inserted further
westward, so as to open under the interior gallery. The north aisle once
contained several rich mullioned and tracery windows; but these were, A.D.
1790, replaced by lights, filled with plain lattice glass. Of the nave there is
now no distinctive feature, owing to the circumstance of one roof spanning the

• Papers in Record Office. See p. 49.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

whole of the nave and aisles. The pitch of the roof of the chancel is the
as that of the nave, with a cross on the summit of the eastern gab e
buttresses, at each angle of its rise, having short crocketed finials

Ente ring the church, by one of the doors already named as opening under
the gallery, the connoisseur of ecclesiastical style will have to deplore the
havoc made by the Solons of the parish in the year I79o, who, in vestry
assembled, November 17, 1789, resolved -that the church should be new pewed
in a regular way, so as to be fit and decent for divine service." To provide
for this, they took off the several roofs, destroyed the pillars and arches
separating the nave and north aisle, and removed the porches. Proceeding to
make the edifice fit and decent, they erected a roof of one span for the whole
building, separated the tower arch from the body of the church by the erection

of a large gallery, with closed screen under, pewed the body without leaving
any central passage to the chancel; and thus, with a flat ceiling, having
cornices round, and five circular central mouldings, gave to the interior much
more of the aspect of a large concert room than a place of worship. (2) As,
therefore, there is nothing to praise, and much to deplore, let us leave these
renovators, and hasten into the chancel, where, fortunately, they had no power,
and describe the interior. It is divided from the nave by a high pointed arch,
springing from piers or half pillars, but slightly defined, and has a coved
ceiling. The south side has a pointed window of two lights, and two others of
three lights, with a priest's door, and the north two of two lights, a third
being filled up, and now partly forming the side of a modern vestry room.

(2.) This interesting structure has since been restored their "prentice hands." The old seats and gallery were

by the exertions of the late Rev. A. Hunter, vicar, from removed, the flat ceilings taken down, and the girders

plans of Mr. G. E. Street, by Mr. T. Collins, Tewkesbury. of the roof restored. The row of pillars with their arches

It now presents some of the handsome and original that separated the nave and north aisle were erected iu

features of the church before the renovators of 1790 tried harmony with the other parts of the church.

86 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

The east window is also pointed, and of five lights. It is exceedingly light
and graceful, and would much improve the interior if filled with coloured
glass. On each side of it, and nearly on a level with the sill, is a large
carved bracket of exquisite workmanship, supported on shafts, considerable
portions of which are hidden by the raised floor. These brackets were once

occupied by saintly images, and as there were formerly two chapels, or oratories,
in this church, dedicated to Our Lady and to St. Catharine, most probably
their effigies stood thereon, whilst the altars were placed beneath and in front.
On the south side of the communion table are the remains of the sedilia, now
reduced to one and a half complete stalls, the other portions having been cut
away to introduce a monument to the memory of Andrew, Lord Archer.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 87

Further eastward, is a piscina, under a trefoiled arch, with crocketted canopy
and short finial. The chancel has, in some measure, been restored to its ancient
state, by the erection of stalls for the choir, &c. The communion table is
without ornament, and the font is a plain stone vase, placed in the nave, near
to the entrance to the chancel.

The windows of the church in Dugdale's time contained the arms of
Mowbray, Montfort, Tucket, Hastang, Crewenhale, Musard, Archer, and
Waring; those of Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, and Clinton, Earl of Hunting
don, gracing the parlour window of the vicarage house, having, no doubt,
been removed from the church.

There were several monuments at Dugdale's visit: Those to the memory
of Edward Archer, gentleman, i;th February, 1592, and two others mentioned
by him, are totally gone; whilst those to the memory of the Fulwodes may be
the dilapidated stones on the floor of the northern aisle. The other, named
and engraven in his work, still remains entire. This is the brass plate, in a
carved frame, on the north side of the chancel, representing a female at prayer
before a faldstool, on which lies an open book. Below is an inscription to the
memory of Margaret Archer, daughter of Simon Ralegh, of Farnborough,
Esq., obiit i3th August, 1614. The chancel contains besides a large mural
monument to the memory of Thomas Archer, Esq., and other members of
the family. The monument referred to in the description of the sedilia is to
the memory of Andrew, L/ord Archer, Baron of Umberslade, the last male
descendant of the family, obiit 25th April, 1778, aged 41. It bears the family
arms, and has the draped figure of a female leaning on a pedestal, which bears
the bust of the last lord. Another stone mural monument records the death of
Thos. Spooner, obiit 1593, aged 93. In the nave and aisles are several tablets,
and stones on the floor, to the memory of the families of Chambers, Hunt,
and Willes. In the tower are six bells, all cast in the eighteenth century. A
singular custom exists here of ringing one of the bells at the hours of nine,
one, and eight o'clock, and which has been done time out of mind of the

O *

inhabitants.

In the church were formerly two chantries, one at the altar of the Blessed
Virgin, the other at that of St. Catharine.

THE CHANTRY OF THE VIRGIN

Was founded by Robert Fulwode, the first vicar after the impropriation of the
church to the Priory at Maxstoke: He granted, igth Edward III, to Ranulph
de Fulwode, and his heirs, his capital messuage at Tanworth, with the lands
and tenements thereto belonging, situate in a place called Beaumont, and
another messuage, also in Tanworth, to find a priest, chosen by twelve of the
principal inhabitants of the town, to celebrate divine service daily in the church,

88 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

at the altar of the Blessed Virgin, for all the living and dead of the parish,
and for the benefactors to the said church and chantry. The priest was
required to take oath, yearly, that he would faithfully perform such service,
and likewise that he would daily say a Placebo and Dirigc, with a special
commendation of him, the said Robert, by name, and his heirs. This deed
provided for a succession of trusts, in case of failure of heirs, and was
witnessed by Sir Peter de Montfort, Sir Edmund de Trussell, Sir Roger de
Aylesbury, Sir Thomas Blancfront, and others.

THE CHANTRY OF ST. CATHARINE,

It appears, was founded I4th Richard II, by one Thomas Collins, of Tan worth,
who conveyed certain lands in trust, to find two priests to celebrate divine
sen-ice here for ever. The disposal being made without license from the king,
became forfeited, when he gave the property to John Swet, who obtained a
patent from Henry IV, whereby they were assigned to Rose Montfort, (then a
woman of consequence in the parish,) that she and her heirs should provide
and maintain two chantry priests to celebrate divine service daily in the church
of Tanworth, as well as for the good estate of King Henry during his life,
and afterwards for his soul, as also for the souls of his mother and queen
deceased; and for the soul of the said Rose Montfort, and the souls of her
ancestors and heirs, and for other benefactors of the said chantry. This Rose
gave, by deed, the lands unto John Blakenhale and Richard Boys, serving at
the altar, to hold to them, and their successors, priests of this chantry, to
celebrate divine service there for ever.

In a6th Henry VIII, when an account of these chantries was taken, it
was certified that the parish was twenty miles in circumference, so that in
plague and other sickness, the priests of these chantries assisted the vicar in
the administration of the sacraments, &c.

The following is the return made of the chantries at the Dissolution:

CHANTRIES FOUNDED IN THE PAROCHIAI, CHURCH OF TONWORTH.

"Sir Thcmas Ilshawe and Fulco Flecher, custodians of the said Chantries.

And they are valued in lands and tenements there, beyond 325. 8d., )
allowed to the said custodians for rent repaid to the chief lords \ £• s- d-
of the fief there, annually. ) 12 o 8

The tenth part of this sum

o 24

The lands of both Chantries were given, ;th Edward VI, to the Throck-
mortons and their heirs. In the year 1553 there was a pension of 61. to Fulk
etcher and the same to Thomas Yelsham, incumbents of these two Chantries
The precise locality of the Chantries, owing to the improvements of which

(•) Valor Ecclesiasticus, Henry VIII.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 89

mention has been made as the act of the vestry in 1790, can only be conjectured.
Most likely, they were situated as has been suggested at p. 87.

The churchyard, from its elevation, commands a most extensive view
towards the south and east. Over the deep valley, "clustered in leafiness,"
running down to Henley and Wootton, are spread out the woods of Mays Hill,
Austey, &c., whilst

"Far away the woodlands stretch"

to the extremity of Edgehills. From this point, and at no great distance, is
seen the Leasowes farm, where a few years ago, under the church-yard hill,
were dug up the remains of human bones and horses, a cannon ball, buttons,
portions of a sword, &c., indicative of a conflict here, during some of the
civil broils once common in "merrie England." Close by is a farm still called
'The Butts," no doubt designating the spot, common in every parish, when
the bow was the principal weapon of warfare, where the youth of this village
competed for prizes, on saints' and feast days. (3)

About twenty years ago a MAYPOLE, with vane and weathercock, stood
in the open space west of the church, and many still recollect its gay garlands
on May-days long past.

The charities at this place are numerous, and the education of the poor
well attended to in the large school connected with the church.

The village of Tanworth is larger than most others in this part of our
tour, and is, from its situation, highly salubrious. The main street shows the
singular nature of the division of parishes; for whilst the church and houses
on the north side are in Tanworth, the whole line of street on the south,
consisting of seventeen houses, is in Aspley, a hamlet of Wootton Wawen.
The parish itself extends, from south to north, a distance of eight miles, some
portion of it being land of superior quality, but a considerable tract on the
line referred to at p. 18, is of a thin soil, on a gravelly substratum, and often
times taxes alike the pocket and patience of the farmer. The country, with
this exception, is well wooded, and there are many spots of the shaded lanes
in the parish that the traveller may well stay to contemplate.

The registers date from the year 1558, and contain some curious entries.
The living is returned at ^450, patron, Earl Amherst, and the Honourable R.
C. MowcreifF the vicar. The vicarage-house is a modern building some distance
from the church.

(3.) In the time of Henry VIII, archery practice had except spiritual men, justices, and barons of the exchequer,

fallen so much into disuse that an Act was passed, 1511, &c., do use and exercise shooting in long bows, and also

providing, among other matters, "that the statute of do have a bow and arrows ready continually in his house,

Winchester, for archers, be put in due execution; and over to use himself in shooting." He was also to provide bows,

that, that every man, being the king's subject, not lame, &c., for every man-child in his house, from seven years

decrepit, or maimed, being within the age of sixty years, upwards.

N

90 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Before leaving Tanworth village, it may be necessary to remark that in
this extensive parish were formerly a great number of old manors, such as
Umberslade, Sidenhall, Clayhill, Codbarrow, Beetlesworth, Lodbroke, and
Crewenhale. All these possess some feature or other of historical interest; but
as many of them now designate solitary farm houses, or small groups of
cottages, we shall conduct the traveller to the most attractive sites, and notice
the others in notes, in their respective localities.

Passing from Tanworth northward, at a short distance to the left is

LODBROKE PARK,

One of the ancient manors just spoken of. In the 8th year of the reign of
Henry IV, Lodbroke Park(4) was found, by inquisition, to have been in the
possession of Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, in the time of Richard
II, and that he held it of the king as of the honour of Peverell. With
this family it remained till the 3rd of Henry VII, when it came into the
possession of the crown: In the 36th of Henry VIII, it was sold by the
crown to Sir George Throckmorton, along with the manor of Tanworth, the
whole of which was subsequently acquired by the Archers, through purchase,
this portion of the Archer property ultimately passing, by marriage with a
coheiress, to Earl Amherst the present owner, as has been already recorded.

The old house standing here was pulled down six years ago, and rebuilt.
Round the garden was formerly a moat, now filled up.

Northward of Lodbroke is a considerable district of the parish of Tanworth,
forming the chapelry of

SALTER STREET,

It includes Earlswood, Warings Green, Illshaw Heath, and Monkspath Street,
besides many scattered farm houses, and the old manor places of Cheswicke,
Beetlesworth, and Sidenhall. Of these old manors, however, there is now
nothing to attract the attention of the tourist.

EARLSWOOD.

Of this manor little is known. Sir Symon Archer in his collection, from
which several extracts have been made, states that "By deed dated March
20th, gth Elizabeth, 1567, Sir R. Thogmorton of Coughton, in consideration of

U.) John de Lodbroke, i9th Edward III. resided here, to him, in trust for its benefit. Richard III granted to
and had remainder of the endowment of the Chantry William Catesby, of Lap-.vcrth, five hundred trees in I.od-
foundcd in Tanworth church by Robert Fulwode, assigned broke Park, for rails to his new park there.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 91

£112 paid to him by Richard Dolphin of Tan worth, yeoman, sells to him "all
his okes, saplings, trees, and tymber trees uppon on all or upon any parte or
parcell of his waste grounds or soils comenlie called Erles Wood, otherwise
called Gerles Wood, in Tan worth aforesaid, to cut down, fall, take, use, and
carry away, during the tyme of eight years, with liberty to make sawpits, and
cole fires, on any part of the said waste grounds.

The Thogmortons purchased Earlswood and the manor of Farnworth from
Henry VIII.

CHESWICKE.

Dugdale considers this to have been a Roman work, Wyke meaning, in
old English, a castle or fortification, but it is more probable the name was
derived from a Saxon word, signifying to dwell. It was owned, in early
times, by the ancestors of John de Broughton, who, agth Edward I, had a
grant of free-warren here from that monarch. In 42nd Edward III, Sir Thomas
Broughton, knight, sold it to John Waring and Richard Gower, the heirs of the
latter again disposing of it, in the seventeenth century, to one William Bache.
In 1730 it had become the property of a Mr. Hall, and subsequently of the
late Mr. John Cooke.

BEETLESWORTH.

This was partly granted by William, Earl of Warwick, temp. Henry II,
to Roger de Ulehale, and passed to John le Archer. The manor, if such there
were, was, in Henry Ill's time, granted by Ralph de Wilington (Wilmton) to
Roger Durvassal, who obtained a license of Pope Alexander IV to build a
chapel here for the celebration of divine service, as by reason of its remoteness
from the parish church, and the badness of the ways, his residence here was
unprovided for: Nicholas Longespe, then rector of Tanworth, assenting, reserved
for himself and his successors a payment to the mother church of a wax candle
of half a pound weight, on the feast of St. Mary Magdalene yearly. It after
wards passed to the Montforts and the Catesbys of Lapworth, and was sold,
36th Henry VI, by Robert Catesby, Esq., to Thomas Green, and remained
with his family for some generations. In 1730 it was in possession of the
Rev. — Bonner, and is now the property of the executors of the late Mr. J.
Heynes.

SIDENHALL.

This place gave name to the family of Sidenhall. It passed, 4th Edward
III, by a daughter and coheiress of the house, to the Fulwodes, of Clay Hall,

92

THE FOREST OF ARDRN.

by one of which family it was sold to the Hugfords, of Kenwood, with
whom it continued till bought by Nathaniel Cookes, of Ingon. It was after
wards purchased by the Marquis Cornwallis, and is at present the property of
P. W. Martin, Esq., his nephew. It is now a common farm house, near to
which part of the old moat remains.

These, as before stated, are comprised in the district of the parish called
Saltcr Street, the principal object of interest now being

THE CHAPEL,

Which is dedicated to St. Patrick, and was erected in 1839. It originally was
a simple brick building consisting of a nave and chancel, and would accommodate
about one hundred persons. In 1860 a composite tower of brick and stone
was erected at the west end by Thomas Burman, Esq., in memory of his
father, the late Thomas Burman, Esq., of Warings Green. The chapel is
represented in the initial letter prefixed to this chapter.

The tower story consists of a vaulted and groined chamber about twelve
feet square, forming a western porch to the church. It is entered by double
doors, and has a doorway having a central column and highly enriched tracery
head, in the principal division of which is a sculptured medallion of the Ascension
of our Blessed Lord; beyond this is an outer arch uniting the two westernmost
buttresses, elaborately carved and having in the tympanum above a bust of St.
Patrick holding the trefoil and in the act of benediction. This outer porch
is panelled at the side to receive mortuary inscriptions of the Burman family,
and is decorated with shafts of green Horton and red Mansfield stone.

The second stage forms the ringing loft, and is approached by a staircase
external to the tower, of peculiar character. The upper stage has a large
three-light louvre window with a tracent head on each face. Over each of
these is a gable the whole width of the tower, having at its eaves a figure of
an angel holding the emblems of the passion, and at its apex a large wrought
iron finial. The four ridges uniting these gables are coped with a wrought iron
cresting, and a lofty and ornamented cross rises from their intersection. The
cost was about iaoo/., exclusive of the ring of bells, which have been added
by subscription of the landowners and inhabitants. The architect was Mr.
G. T. Robinson, and the building executed by Mr. Ballard, the principal carving
by Mr. Wood.

The living is a perpetual curacy, of the value of i;o/ per annum, and is in
the patronage of the Vicar of Tan worth. The Rev. G. W. Barnard is the
present Incumbent.

Should the tourist have visited Salter Street, he will return southward,

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

93

but if not, then leaving Lodbroke, he will proceed eastward, by Birchey Crosses)
for some distance, turning to the right on a road which leads direct to

UMBERSLADE,

An ancient manor house, which, temp. Henry II, was partly given by Henry
de Vilers, (sewer to William, Earl of Warwick,) to Robert Archer and Seliit
his wife, and their heirs. In this grant it is called Terra de Ombresladc,
and recites that other part of the manor was given, by Roger de Ulehale,
to the said Seliit only. William their son had, early in king John's reign, a
grant of much land in Tanworth, by Waleran, Earl of Warwick, which was
set out by special boundaries. Pope Gregory IX also issued a special bull for
a peculiar chapel (6) at this place, igth Henry III. Of the members of this
family, John, son of the before-named William, obtained a special charter from
Earl Waleran, for license to hawk and hunt in all parts of Tanworth, and to
enjoy all other liberties belonging to the said earl within Monkspath(7) and
Umberslade, on payment of twelve arrow heads and a couple of capons, at
Whitsuntide yearly. One of his sons was Lord Prior of the Hospital of St.
John of Jerusalem, i4th Edward II. Thomas le Archer, grandson of William,
49th Edward III, granted license to Richard de Montfort and others, to amortize
certain lands here, for founding a chantry in Lap worth Church, which will
be more particularly referred to in a future page. This Thomas obtained from
Pope Boniface IX a special indulgence to appoint a special confessor, who
might pronounce plenary remission to himself and wife of all their sins, which,
with contrite hearts, they should make confession of at the time of their deaths.
Richard, his son and heir, who died nth Edward IV, by his will ordered his
body to be buried in the church at Tanworth, giving to the fabric four marks,
and directing that twelve pounds of wax be burnt round his hearse on the
day of his funeral; and that there should be eight new torches made and
lighted during the mass, to be held by eight poor men, each in a russet gown,
who were to be supplied with meat and drink for that day. To this Richard

(5.) Birchey Cross.— So called from a very large birch tree, of ground without any habitation, but a public house

once occupying the junction of the roads, upon which was and a few farm residences now mark the locality. The

a cross. Several other crosses anciently stood in the parish, manor was given, temp. Henry II, by William, Earl of

viz., near to Umberslade, at Brown's Green, Jacob's Well, Warwick, to Roger de Ulehale; his great grandson,

and Knowlesbury Cross, at Tanworth. William de Ulehale, in the time of Henry III, sold it for

forty marks to John le Archer, in whose family it continued

(6.) Dugdale says that in the windows of this chapel tm the division of the estates. Moiikspath is supposed

were the arms of Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, Clinton, tQ have derived the name from the frequent journeying

Earl of Huntingdon, and of the Archers, all of which were of the monks of stoneleigh to Bordesley Abbey. There

in good preservation, although of so early a date as the was another manor called Little Monkspath, held of the

time of Edward III. manor of Tanworth by the fourth part of a knight's fee,

(7.) Monkspath Street.— This was formerly a large tract and belonging, in early times, to the Montforts of Coleshill.

94

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

succeeded three Johns, and then another Richard, Esq., of the Body to Henry
VIII. His great grandchild, Sir Symon Archer, knight, born September 2ist,
1581, was a gentleman well versed in the antiquities of his native county. (8)
With his descendants this and several neighbouring manors continued, in
a direct line, up to the time of Thomas Archer, created, 2ist George II, Lord
Archer, Baron of Umberslade. His son, Andrew, succeeded to the family-
estates and honours, but died April 25th, 1778, aged 41, and lies buried, with
his ancestors, in the chancel of the church of Tanworth, where his monument
records that "He was the last male descendant of an ancient and honourable
family, that came over with William the Conqueror, and settled in the county
of Warwick, in the reign of Henry II, from whom his ancestors obtained
grants of land in this county." He married Sarah, the daughter of James West,
Esq., of Alscot, by whom he left four daughters. In the division of his
property, this part came, by marriage, to the Earl of Plymouth, who sold it
to Bolton King, Esq., who disposed of it to G. F. Muntz, Esq., eldest son of
the former member for Birmingham.

THE HALL

Is situated in a park of about three hundred acres, both of which have been
much improved by the present proprietor. Near one hundred years ago, Jago
sang of the scenery of this and neighbouring places,

Sir Syraon Archer, (1581-1663) was a celebrated valuable records of the county, now preserved in the
f, and * Mend of Dugdale, the county Historian. Stratford Birth-place Library, extracts from which have
cted and orepen-ed many of the rarest and most been quote-

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 95

" Beneath the waving umbrage, Flora spreads

Her spotted couch, primrose and hyacinth

Profuse, with every simpler bud that blows

On hill or dale

* * * * Such Umberslade,

In the sweet contest joined, with livelier charms

Intent t' illumine Arden's leafy gloom."

The old manor house was moated round, and had a gate-house. The moat
was filled up in the reign of James I. The present mansion was erected by
Lord Archer. It is a large and handsome stone building, in the Palladian
.style of architecture, nearly square in form, having a western and eastern front.
The eastern front had a portico, the pillars of which were of the Doric order,
and was surmounted by a bust of the emperor, Titus Vespasian. The portico
on the west had the arms of the Archers, with military trophies. The present
proprietor has considerably improved the appearance of the west front, of which
the engraving gives a good representation, by removing the portico and erecting
a colonnade extending from both wings.

In the park here there is now a Baptist Church, built by G. F. Muntz,
Esq., and opened for public worship in 18 — . It is a handsome edifice of gray
Wilmcote stone, with Bath dressings, and consists of a lofty gothic tower and
spire, a nave to seat two hundred persons, an octagonal apse, and two transepts,
in one of which the organ is fixed. The pulpit is of oak and the Baptistery
of white marble. The roof of stained deal is supported by principals rising
from carved stone corbels, and the windows are furnished with cathedral glass.
The entrance is through a porch on the north side of the tower, occupying
the front angle of the building.

On the borders of the park, southward, is the site of the old manor of

CODBARROW,

Referred to at page 90. On this spot stood, in very early times, a mansion
of some extent for that period. The moat, which is still very perfect, indicates
the size of the dwelling it once inclosed. It is now approached, from the keeper's
lodge, by a foot-bridge, but the space it incloses, 132 feet by 120, is used as a
garden. Not a vestige of the edifice of which it has been the site remains.

This ancient seat belonged to the de Montforts, of Lap worth, and was in
the possession of Richard de Mcntfort and Rose his wife, 37th Edward III.
It descended to William de Montfort, their son and heir, and, by partition,
came to Helen, one of his daughters, married to Richard Merebroke, who, in
default of issue, by William, his son, and Alice, his daughter, entailed it upon
John Catesby and Margaret his wife, and their heirs, this Margaret being the
other daughter of William de Montfort. In the deed of disposition, it is styled
the Manor of Codbarrwo. In ist Richard III, it appears to have been held in

96 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

fee, as it is stated that "John Bigge hath the manour of Codbarowe in the
countie of Warr., of the yearly value of xvi/. viijj., with the issues of the same
during his lif."(*) The Manor came to the above-named Alice, who had married
John Norris, knight, of Yatenden, Berkshire. He, a6th Henry VIII, conveyed
it, in trust, for the benefit of William Wellington, Esq., of Barcheston. He,
again, bestowed it upon Anne, his daughter, wife of Francis Montfort, Esq.,
and her heirs. Their grandson, Sir Edward Montfort, (gth James I,) sold it to
Simon Archer, Esq., and it has been attached to Umberslade from that time
to the present.

Near to this place is another old manor, viz., ,

CLAY HALL,

Anciently called Fulwode , which gave the surname(9) to a family who resided
here. The Fulwodes descended from a younger son of the Offords, of
Offord, near Wootton Wawen. In igth Richard II, John Fulwode obtained a
license from Tideman, bishop of Worcester, for a private oratory at this place,
which was renewed by the next bishop, 4th Henry IV. Clay Hall continued
with his successors till 35th Elizabeth, when Robert Fulwode sold it to
Thomas Greswold, whose executors, nine years after, disposed of it to Thomas
Spooner. William Spooner, his grandson, conveyed it to Andrew Archer, Esq.,
and it passed in like manner with Umberslade to the present owner,
G. F. Muntz, Esq.

Returning through the park, on the other side of the house, and on the
easteni side of the grounds, stands an Obelisk, erected by Lord Archer in the
year 1749. Its form will be seen in the engraving of the chapel at Nuthurst,
on a knoll near to which it is erected. It is mentioned by Lady Luxborough,
where she says " I am to dine at Lord Archer's next Tuesday, when I shall
see the Obelisk, and be a better judge how it appears from the saloon it is
seen from.''^)

In this neighbourhood was once a large oak, on which a cross was
engraved. The parishioners, in walking the boundries between Tanworth and
Nuthurst, used to say a gospel(io) here. The tree was considered, by many, to be
as old as the Conquest.

The parish of Tanworth, with its numerous members, contained a population

(9.) Dugdale (fives inscriptions on two monuments, to from the custom of reading passages from the Gospel at

the mrmory of members of this family, extant in Tanworth the spot, when the parishioners walked the bounds and

Church when hs visited it. One commemorated Richard limits of the parish. Different ceremonies were performed

Pulwode, obiit 23rd February, 1502; the other, Robert at the various boundary marks, in order that the localities

Kulwode, obiit 2oth October, 1531. The founder of the might be impressed on the minds of the voung, as they

chantry of St. Mary >" the same church, was, doubtless, were attested by the recollections of the ofd.
another member.

(•) Harl. .IfSS., 433, fol. 67.

(10.) The Gospel Oak was a boundary tree, and so called (+) Letters to SHenstone, 107.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 97

of 1870, in the year 1891. In the return, temp. Elizabeth, there were 104
families.

Crossing the lane into the next field, we arrive at Nuthurst Chapel, erected
for the convenience of the scattered houses of this ancient hamlet.

*

NUTHURST

Is a member of Hampton-in-Arden, from which, however, it is distant about
nine miles. Like that place, and its other members, it belonged to the de
Mowbrays, from whom it came to the de Montforts, and from them, 46th
Henry III, to one of the Hastangs, of Leamington Hastang. It is, when
possessed by this family, that we have the first mention of it, in a challenge
by Peter de Montfort of certain services from Robert de Hastang. It had
become the property of William Trussell in the early part of Edward I's reign :
He obtained, 5th of the same reign, license of free-warren here, together with
a special license to make a park of his woods in this place. From him it
descended to the Trussells,(n) of Billesley, in this country, with whom it
continued till sold, in the middle of the seventeenth century, to William
Jesson, of Coventry. The property of the Trussells here, according to inquisition,
8th Henry VIII, consisted of one messuage, 200 acres of land, 300 of pasture,
ten of meadow, thirty of wood, and \s. rent charge. Nuthurst afterwards
came to the Archer family, who sold it, with Umberslade, to Bolton King,
Esq., who had recently disposed of it to G. F. Muntz, Esq.

THE CHAPEL.

Being a member of Hampton-in-Arden, there has been a chapel here from
a very early date, which in consequence of its great distance from the mother
church, had the privilege of burial accorded to it. Like Hampton, it was, and
Henry III, appropriated to the Canons of Kenilworth, by William de Cornhull,
Bishop of Worcester, who conferred upon these monks the tithes arising in
the hamlet. In i8th Edward II, John de Olnefel, vicar of Hampton, granted
a lease, for eight years, to Thomas Ketel, priest of the chapel at Nuthurst, of
all the glebes, tithes, &c., reserving to himself all living mortuaries of the
inhabitants deceased, and the burial of the bodies of all married persons and
widows, with funeral oblations; and also pasture and forage yearly for four
young beasts, steers, or heifers, and the keeping of three or four hogs in

(n.) The Trussells were connected with the county from was chosen by the Commons to pronounce the sentence
the time of Henry I, and held considerable possessions of deposition against that monarch. His lands were seized
under the Earls of Warwick. William, son of Sir Edmund upon, as a rebel, by Edward III, but were afterwards
Trussell, who first possessed Nuthurst, temp. Edward II, restored.

O

98 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

harvest time, and for a month after Michaelmas. The grant stipulated that
the said Thomas Ketel and his clerk should perform service daily, in the said
chapel, honestly and decently, so that the vicar incur no blame; and keep the
housing and chapel, with books, vestments, and other ornaments, in as good
state as, or better than, he found them; but to cut down no trees, and to pay
to the vicar, or his deputy, zos. annually. Edward Fulwode, Esq., of Clay
Hall, further endowed the chapel here, by a grant, 9th Elizabeth. The old
chapel in time went to decay, and was in ruins in 1730. A new building, the
chapel now standing, was erected several years after. It is a small, unpretend
ing edifice of brick, plastered over, consisting of a nave with four pointed

arched windows on each side, a bell turret at the west end, under which is
a small niche and a pointed arched doorway, which forms the only entrance.
There is also a small chancel. The general appearance will be best understood
by the sketch. The interior presents nothing remarkable beyond a stained
glass window at the east end. It is seated partly with pews, and partly with
open benches. The font is plain, standing between the pulpit and reading
desk at the east end of the nave.

The church has been closed as a place of worship and is now used as a
mortuary chapel. A new and commodious church has been erected nearer to
Hockley Heath, a description of which will be found in a future page. The
parish is now separated from Hampton in Arden, and a district with a part of
Tanworth formed into a separate living.

The living is returned at £170. The Rev. J. Fisher is the present
incumbent.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

99

The hamlet proper consists of three or four scattered farm houses, and
some cottages, and contained a population of 101 in the year 1891.

Leaving Nuthurst, we proceed down the lane leading to the turnpike road
from Birmingham to Stratford-on-Avon, and by which road we again return to
Henley-in- Arden.

Jfottttfj lag.

T will be necessary to-day to take the tourist over a portion
of the Birmingham turnpike road already traversed, in
order to visit Lapworth, Harborough Banks, Kingswood,
Bushwood, Camp Hill, Buckley Green, and Beaudesert,
in which parish is The Fletchers represented here. From
this road, at a distance of three miles from Henley, a lane
to the right, overhung with leafy foliage and lofty trees,
leads direct to the pleasantly situated village of

LAPWORTH,

The records of which are of an earlier date than those of any other parish
in the district. Kenulph, king of Mercia, conveyed it, in the time of Denebert,
the ninth bishop, to the see of Worcester, of which it formed a part till the
time of Canute, when Brightegus, the then bishop, gave it to his servant
Hearlewinus, in reward for his services in attending him into Saxony, whither
he had been sent as escort to Gunnilda, the king's daughter, wedded to Cono,
the emperor. The parish was then reckoned as half a hide, out of which
twelvepence was reserved yearly, in acknowledgment of the right of the
church. In the Conqueror's time, it was given to Hugh de Grentemaisnill,
who returned it as containing half a hide, one ploughland arable and three
villeins, the woods being two miles in length and one in breadth, the whole
being valued at 2os. Before this, they had been the freehold of one Baldwin,
who became tenant of the new proprietor. From the Grentemaisnills, it
passed, by marriage, to the Earls of Leicester, of whom it was held, in Henry
Ill's time, by the ancestor of Henry Pipard, who fixed here his residence, and
is styled in several deeds Capitalis Dominus Feodi de Lapworth. He was a
man of considerable rank in the county, holding several high offices during
the reign of Henry III. On his death, the manor, &c., became the portion of
one of his daughters, Dionysia, married to Sir Robert de Harecurt, whose

I02 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

son William, early in the reign of Edward I, granted to Henry de Braundeston,
and his heirs, a certain part of his court and capital mansion here, viz., that
lying to the west from the great gate of the wall, (which then extended to
on oak standing before the door of the old grange,) together with the advowson
of the church, and the homage and service of several freeholders. He also
granted, or confirmed, to his nephew, Sir William de Bishopden, son and heir
of the other coheiress, certain lands here, reserving for himself and heirs the
payment of one barbed arrow yearly. The manor remained with the heirs of
Henry de Braundeston till the reign of Edward III, prior to which, however,
the family had acquired other possessions here, by grants from Hugh de
Lodbroke, one of which manors he granted or sold to Sir John Bishopden,
knight, supposed to be that of Bushwood.(i) To the above Henry de Braundeston
succeeded his son Hugh, who was frequently styled Dominus de Lapworth,
having, nth Edward III, obtained a lease thereof for forty years from Sir
John de Bishopden. Dying without male heirs, in the 36th of the same reign,
part of Lapworth came by one of the coheiresses, to Richard de Montfort,
and part to Philip de Ailesbury, who had married the other coheiress, a third
daughter being a nun at Wroxhall. The whole of the estates afterwards
came, by marriage, or grants, from the de Montforts and Bishopdens, to the
Catesbys,* with whom they continued (with a slight interruption by the
execution and attainder of William Catesby, Esq., on the accession of Henry
VII) till the time of James I, when Robert Catesby sold the manor to Sir
Edward Greville, knight, from whom it was purchased by Sir Thomas Holte,
of Aston, near Birmingham. From the Holtes, Lapworth descended to a
daughter, married to Abraham Bracebridge, Esq., of Atherstone, whose children,
by Act of Parliament, sold the manors of Lapworth and Bushwood, with
houses, farms, &c., in those places, containing 10140. Ir- 28/-, and chief rents
of Lapworth, 3/. js. ox/., to Sir Charles Cockerell, Baronet.

THE CHURCH,

Dedicated to St. Matthew, (2) is situated, as the engraving shows, on a gentle
eminence, and from the neighbouring hill, southward,

"At distance seen
Above its clustering group of trees."

(i.) These deeds with their subscribing witnesses are authority; but, as the wake or feast of dedication is still

interesting, and correct translations of them will be found held on the eve of St. Matthew's day, we adhere to the

in the Appendix. earlier dicta of Dugdale.

(a.) Dr. Thomas, in his edition of Dugdale. states it to (•) See Appendix.
be dedicated to "the blessed Virgin Mary," and cites his

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

103

has the aspect of a building of superior character to any we have yet visited,
an appearance which is fully borne out on closer inspection. It was given,
temp. Henry III, by William de Harecurt, to John, son of Peter de Glen, who
granted it to the Warden and Scholars of Merton College, Oxford, and, with
a brief interval, it has remained in their patronage to the present day. It was
valued, igth Edward I, at seventeen marks and a half; in 26th Henry VIII,
at 9/. 9^. jd. ; and is now returned at 428/. The inventory of Church Goods
enumerates as here in 6th Edward VI,

j chalice & iiij belles, a saunce bell.

iij vestments, one vellet, ij dornix.

ij copes, one vellet, one silke.

iij albes.

ij altarclothes.

ij candlestickes, laten.

one pix, laten.

ij cruett.

a crosse, coper.

one sensor, laten.

Of the church originally given to Merton College, nothing remains but
parts of the walls worked into the present edifice. In these remains of the
ancient church are traces of windows that have been filled in. The more
modern edifice consists of a tower with lofty spire, north and south aisles,
nave, having what formerly constituted an open porch, with a chapel over it,
at the west end, a chancel, and a chantry chapel on the north side of the
latter. The tower was once independent of the body of the church, but it is
now connected by a lobby or passage, leading through a pointed arch in the
north aisle. It stands on the north side, exactly in a line with the eastern
ends of the aisles and nave, and is lighted by pointed arch windows on each

104 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

face of the ground story and the belfry. An embattled parapet surmounts the
tower, which is approached by a projecting staircase at the north-west angle,
covered with a pinnacle or coved roof. From the tower rises a graceful spire,
which has, from its elevated situation, been, on two occasions, damaged by
lightning. From the tower a very extensive landscape is visible on all sides,
which will well repay the trouble of mounting to its summit. The two aisles
are embattled, having crocketed pinnacles ; the southern one contains three
pointed windows of two lights, with crocketed mouldings and finials on the south,
and a similar window at the east and west ends. The doorway is a pointed
arch, and had formerly a half-timbered porch, removed during the incumbency of
the Rev. H. A. Pye. The northern aisle has two similar windows and doorway,
with a pointed three-light window at the west end. The nave has, on each
side, four flat-headed clerestory windows of three lights, and a large western
window, of five lights, rising over the western porch and chapel. It is embattled
on the sides and on each gable, having five pinnacles rising from light buttresses
at regular intervals on the former, and a cross on the apex of the latter. The
gargoyles, which are large, are in the usual grotesque style. The western
porch had two doorways leading from north to south, but one of these is now
walled up. The chapel over is lighted by an obtuse arched window. It has
a plain parapet, with pinnacles at the sides and cross in centre of the gable.

The chancel is the most ancient part of the building, and has been recently
restored by the rector, from funds furnished by himself, Merton College, and
other contributors. In the restoration nearly the whole of the south side has
been rebuilt, the two obtuse arched windows and priest's doorway reinstated,
the eastern pointed arched window, of five windows, reopened, (3) and a single-
light window on the north side repaired. The other part of the north side of
the chancel is occupied by the chantry chapel, which has two windows, one
flat-headed, of three lights, eastward, and one pointed, of two lights, to the
north.

The interior of the church is in true keeping with ecclesiastical architecture.
The nave is separated from each of the aisles by four pointed arches, springing
from pillars of different shapes and proportions, those on the north side being
more massive than those on the south. The west window contains some ancient
coloured glass, viz., four coats of arms taken from the west window of the
south aisle, (4) and other portions from the chancel window, in 1807. At
Dugdale's visit, the arms of de Montfort, Catesby, Braundeston, Arden, Arundel,

(3.) The renovations of 1807 consisted of blocking up (4.) This was formerly called the Brome Hall window,

the east window, fitting the church with high pews, and and the arms removed were those of Catesby, Montfort

breaking up the carved rood screen, bearing the arms of of Beaudesert, Montfort of Lapworth, and Catesby impaling

Catesby, Brome, and Arden, to form the altar rails and Montfort, quartered with Braundeston.
panelling of the walls of the chancel.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 105

Scrope, and others, were to be found in the windows. The roof of the nave
is in ceiled panels, with cross beams and curved braces. The roofs of the
aisles are plastered over, the southern one having a plain arched piscina, with
a credence table at the east end. The western porch has no communication
with the church. A staircase leads to the chapel above, founded A.D. 1374,
by Richard de Montfort and others. On the south side of it is a piscina or
water stoup. This building is now used as a vestry. The chancel, which is
divided from the nave by a pointed arch, is now restored to something of its
ancient form and style, under the superintendence of Mr. Street. The east
window, blocked up in 1807, again throws its light over the interior, from
which has been removed the wainscotting and wood-work, made from the rood
screen at that time. The two south windows are filled with stained glass, (5)
shedding their rays on the ancient chapel opposite to them. Carved reading
desks and stalls for the choir, a stone pulpit, and an oak lectern have been
added, and the nave and chancel separated by pillars of Irish stone, resembling
malachite, supporting a plain baluster of Bath stone. Over the communion
table is placed an alabaster reredos, representing the Last Supper, executed by
Mr. Earp, of Lambeth, the blank portion of the wall on each side being filled
with encaustic tiles, as is the whole of the floor of the chancel.

The north chapel, separated from the chancel by a circular arch, is
approached from the north aisle by a pointed arched doorway. Dr. Thomas
considers this to have been the chapel of Our Lady, but it is more probable
that the altars of St. Catherine and St. James were here situated. On the
eastern wall are two brackets, of different patterns, and near to each other.
On these, images once stood, and Dr. Thomas says, "in the loft, over the
Lady's chapel, there is a hole in the wall just over the niche, where the
image of Our Lady stood, wherein a man might unobserved, by strings, play
tricks with the image; it seems to have been made for that purpose, for there
is no other reason to be given for it." (6)

The church, which is pewed, has a gallery at the west end of the nave.
It is in contemplation, however, to restore the interior so as to correspond with
the chancel. The font is octagonal on a shaft of the like form, having a
sculptured head at each angle. The tower contains five bells. The monuments
are all of comparatively modern date, to the memory of a few of the rectors,
and members of the Ingram, Camden, Bradbury, and other parishioners' families.

From the absence of any notice, it would appear that the church was

(5 ) These windows were executed by Messrs. Clayton and the two side lights. The other, the gift of John Fetherstone
Bell One a memorial to Alfred Lapworth, Esq., presented junior, Esq., the Baptism of Our U>rd.

bv his family represents the Nativity in the centre light, (6.) These holes have lately been carefully searched for,

and the Adoration of the Magi and of the Shepherds in but without any discovery of them being in

P

I06 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

devoid of monuments when Dugdale visited it; he cites only one inscription
as being in the east window of the south aisle, viz :

Ctatr pro bono stam

ft IP £arrsfcp arroigrn pro ccrporr rrgis.

THE CHANTRIES.

The Chantry, dedicated to the Virgin Man- and to St. Thomas the martyr,
was the western one described on page 104. It was founded, 47th Edward III,
by Richard de Montfort, Roger de Ulbarwe, Roger Attye Greene, of Lapworth,
and Richard Dolfyn, a priest, for the maintenance of a priest to sing mass
every day to the honour of the Blessed Virgin, St. Thomas the martyr, and
All Saints, for the repose of the souls of the founders, and a long list of the
neighbouring gentry, priests, &c., and for the souls of all the faithful deceased.
The chantry was endowed with two messuages, two canicates of land, twelve
acres of meadow, and sixteen shillings rent, all in the parish of Tanworth,
which were, with the consent of the superior lords of that manor, settled, 49th
of the same reign, upon John Jori, the first priest of this chantry, and his
successors.(7) The following is the return, temp. Henry VIII:

CHANTRY FOUNDED IN THE PAROCHIAL CHURCH OF LAPWORTH.

"Sir John Hynwood. custodian of the Chantry founded in the said Church

And it is worth in lands and tenements beyond the demesne of t £ s. d.

Lapworth. annually * o 100 o

The tenth part of this sum - o 10 o"*

In the west window of the nave, as before stated, are the arms of the principal
founder of this chantry, with this inscription:

Ri us ^HonrfbrO fill" Prm Rosr ur n

D'm Dr 2>rflo Drstrto film ......

The Catesbys were great patrons of the church, and obtained an indulgence,
A.D. 1467, of forty days, for all who attended mass at the altar of St. Catherine,
to be celebrated daily for the souls of William Catesby and others. This altar,

(7.) 47th Edward III. Warwickshire. Richard de Monte is to celebrate Divine Service every day in the chapel of

Forti and others give ten pounds for license to be granted Lapworth, founded in honour of Mary the Virgin and of

to the said Richard and others that they may be able to St. Thomas the Martyr, and All Saints: to be held at

give and assign certain lands and tenements with their "mortmain."— Rot. Orif., 34.

appurtenances in Toneworth, to a certain chaplain, who (*) I'alor Ecclesiattictts, Henry VIII.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 107

as well as that of St. James, once existent here, probably stood in the northern
chapel, immediately under the brackets described on page 105, whereon would
be placed their effigies. As the chapel is still said to belong to the lords of
the manor, it may not be too much to assume the Catesbys to have been the
founders of this chantry. In common with other churches, there were here also,
previous to the Reformation, endowments for the maintenance of the rood and
paschal lights, and for candles and lamps before the several altars. Ivo Pipard,
on St. Leonard's day, 6th Edward I, settled a messuage, lands, and two shillings
per annum, for the maintenance of two wax candles and two lamps in the
church at Lapworth; viz., one candle to burn before the altar of St. James,
on Sundays and holy days, at mass, and on all Saturdays when the mass of
the blessed Virgin Mary is celebrated. One to burn before the said altar on
other occasions; one before the reliques; and one before the altar of the blessed
Mary in the chancel.*

The church at Lapworth had also, i8th Henry VI, certain lands given to
it by George Ashby, the elder, comprising one hundred and six acres of arable,
meadow, pasture, wood, and moor land, with two messuages, situate in
Lapworth and Nuthnrst, for the use of the then vicar, Ralph Perot, and his
successors, to provide a certain lamp to burn there, and to perform other works
of charity. These lands came to the crown, ist Edward VI, and were con
veyed, 1 8th Elizabeth, to — Grey, as concealed lands.

In the churchyard was formerly a fine old stone cross,(8) biiilt on arches,
containing a pulpit, which had room for twelve persons. At the beginning of
the seventeenth century, a renovating churchwarden, one Askew, removed it,
the parishioners in their complaint respecting its removal, stating that it was
pulled down by his privity, and employed to groundsill his house, and to build
his chimneys !

The rectory house stands in a field west of the church, as shown in the
illustration. The present incumbent of the living is the Rev. K. Prescot.

The village, occupying a gentle eminence, is of pleasingly rural aspect, and
contains several good private residences. There are also extensive wharves
here, on various parts of the Birmingham and Stratford Canal, by means of
which a considerable trade in coal, lime, and corn is carried on.

The population of the parish numbered 617 in 1891. There were forty-five
families in 1563.

The charity estates here are large, and besides the relief to the poor, afford
ample funds for education, in commodious schools near to the Rectory.

(8.) Before the Reformation it was customary to erect and hope of the departed, and to designate that the ground
stone crosses in churchyards near to the south porch of was consecrated,
the church, to serve as a triumphant symbol of the faith (*) Thomas's Dugdale.

I08 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

On the eastern side of the parish of Lapworth is a spring, which divides
into two streams taking different courses, one going towards Balsall, and thence
by various rivers, reaches the sea by the Humber; the other flows southward
to the sea by the Severn.

Pursuing the road from Lapworth to Warwick, about a mile from the
former, we come to

HARBOROUGH BANKS,

Of which some account is given in the introductory chapter, and which will
be of interest to, and deserving of a visit from, the antiquarian. In addition
to what has been stated as to its Roman origin, it is said to have been in
military occupation in the time of the wars between Charles I and the
Parliament. The report is, in some measure, sustained by the finding of a
cannon ball and the remnants of a pistol some years since. That the
Parliamentarians were in some force in this neighbourhood, and levied large
contributions from the gentry, is shown by a document preserved in the deeds
of the Ferrers family, (concerning whom more particulars will be found in
another chapter,) the owners of Baddesley, Kingswood, and Brome Halls, in
the vicinity. The items consist of horses, oxen, milk kine, corn, harness,
arms, free quarters, and a contribution of 61. per month, levied on the then
proprietor, his son, and tenants, the whole amounting to the sum of 468/., but
whether or no the claim was paid is not stated.

A short distance from Harborough Banks, on the other side of the canal
and railway is,

KINGSWOOD HALL,

Or manor house, the remains of which serve now for a small farm house.
It consists of a front with two half-timbered gables, and porch in the centre.
Near to this place, on the opposite side of the road, is a cottage having the
arms of Beauchamp inserted over the door, doubtless a stone brought from
some building in the neighbourhood, and placed here. At Kingswood Hall
the family of Ferrers occasionally resided. Here died, October loth, 1633,
Henry Ferrers, Esq., whose knowledge of antiquities, Dugdale states, gave a
fair lustre to that ancient and noble family, whereof he was no small ornament.
A curious document, still preserved, gives the account of expenses incurred at
his funeral, which we quote as an illustration of the times.

' The charges of the buriall : of Henry Ferrers, Esq., who deceased at
Kingswood in the p'ish of Rowington, the xth day of October, 1633.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 109

£. s. d.

Imp. To Roberte Banister, of Henley, for meate - - . . -2511

To Thomas Vescy, of Rowington, butcher, for half a beef - - - i 12 o

To Richard Lane, of ye same towtie, butcher, for more meate - - i 10 o

To the same Vescy, for half a calf more - . . . -068

To Thomas Rawbon, of Baddesly, butcher, for more meate - - -056

To Richard Burtonwood, of Baddesly, for xi dozen of breade - - o 11 o

To Goodall, ye baker, of Balsall, for iiii dozen more of breade - -040

Ffor breade and drinke for the iieyboured at his house at Kingswood,

before they broughte him to buriall to Baddesly Church - -046

One hogshed of beere - - - - . . . -oioo

To Willa, Knighte, of Baddesly, for butter and cheese - - -050

Ffor x cheeses more at viiirf. the peice - - - - . -068

Ffor the coffine - ---..__ o 7 0

To the Vicar of Rowington for a mortuarie where he died - - -084

Ffor makinge the grave - - . . . . . -020

Ffor ii sheepe more - ------- o z? a

To Widdowe Holder, for attendinge him in his sickness and for monyes

laied out for him - - . . ... . -iioo

Returning to Harborough Banks, on the south side of it stands

BROME HALL,

Or Bromds Place, now also a farm house. That a considerable mansion,
surrounded by a moat, stood here in ancient times, is indicated by the remains
of fish ponds of three falls, and pleasure grounds around. This, in all like
lihood, was the seat of the Bromes, previous to the acquisition of Baddesley,
by John Brome, the lawyer, of Warwick, his ancestors residing here for several
generations. The first mention of them, in public documents, is of one Robert
Brome, 2oth Richard II, who was also a lawyer, and steward to Thomas de
Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick. (9) John Brome, his son, was returned by the
burgesses of Warwick, to the parliament, 8th Henry IV. He married Joan,
daughter and heir of Thomas Rodie, of Baddesley Clinton, by which alliance
the estates at that place fell to the family of Brome, who fixed their residence
there. William Catesby, grandson of Sir Richard Catesby, of Lapworth, by
his second wife Elizabeth, daughter of William Astall, of Nuneaton, is described
in the Catesby pedigree as of Brome Hall.* The east window of the south
aisle of Lapworth church was formerly called the Brome Hall window, and
the rood screen had several coats of arms of the lords of that manor painted
thereon. The house now standing has been modernized by additions, the oldest
part being the two chimneys and the half timbered gables. The interior of
one part of the house still retains considerable portions of the ancient oak
panelling.

(9.) The pedigree, Herald's Visitation, gives six genera- of Brome.
tions preceding John Brome, the first being William Brome, (*) Herald's Visitation, Hart. MSS.

i io THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Near to Brome Hall is THE HIGH CHIMNEYS, another farm house, so called
from its ancient and lofty chimneys. Here there is a curious tradition relating
to one of its former owners. On the inmates arising one morning, they found
a basket, containing a child at the door, which was taken care of by the parish ;
and, from being found on St. John the Baptist's day, it was named John Basket.
By industry, in after life, he became the purchaser of this very farm, and it
continued in his family for many generations, till it was sold to the late
Benjamin Parnell, Esq., of Solihull. Very near to this house, stands

LAPWORTH HALL,

Commonly called Bush wood Hall, from its being in that hamlet. This is an
old moated manor house, the moat being full of water, and, with the exception
of the eastern section, pretty much in its original condition. This manor
belonged, as is mentioned in the account of Lapworth, to Henry de Braundeston,
who passed it to Sir John de Bishopden, knight, by deed, bearing date I4th
Edward II, with a special mandate to all his freeholders and customary tenants
here. Afterwards, all the various manors in Lapworth became united (this
among others) under Sir William Bishopden, knight, whereof Lapworth Hall,
juxta Henley, is specially mentioned, i3th Henry IV.

The accounts of Simon Berebrown, collector of rents at Bushwood, 3rd
Edward IV,* show some of the curious customary payments to the Lord in the
fifteenth century. Among others there were received as arrears, 2kL, four barbed
arrows, two roots of ginger, and one red rose. The rents of the free tenants
amounted to 2O/. 5^. 3^., one pound of pepper, four roots of ginger, four wood
hens, and four barbed arrows, as also of one red rose for a tenement called
Fowlers.(io)

The general account of money received stands thus:

£. s. d.

Arrears . o o zl

Rents of free tenants - - - - 20 5 3

Rents of assize - •••-499

Pasturage of the park - - - - i 12 io

Pasturage of swine in ditto . . 150

Sale of wood . . . . -71 2!

Perquisites of courts . . 21711

Sale of hay - - i 13 o

£39 5 a

do.) Some of the repayments illustrate the prices of miles), zd.; for ringing swine, ad.; for mowing, spreading,

r and of certain articles in remote districts of the collecting, and carriage of hay growing in two fields, and

this period, viz., for one two-horse load of ricking the same for the lord's use, 4s. 6rf. ; and to John

hay, 31. *d. ; for eleven quarters of oats, 15*. 4rf. ; for coals, Barnthurst, keeper of the park, zd. per day.
i*. 4</.: to the miller for four days' work, M.: to Wadwode

for carriage of malt and wheat from Stratford (about ten (•) Papers in Record Office.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. m

From the above Sir William Bishopden, by the marriage of Philippa, one
of his daughters and coheirs, the whole came to Sir William Catesby, knight.
The Catesbys henceforth had their residence generally here. Sir William, son
of the above, was of great repute in the country, and held high offices under
Richard III. Following the fortunes of this monarch, he was taken prisoner,
stoutly fighting at Bosworth-field, and three days after beheaded. The estates
were forfeited; but, in loth Henry VII, were restored to his son, George, in
whose family this manor remained till the time of James I, when it was sold
by Robert Catesby to Sir Edward Greville, of Milcote, and it has passed through
the various hands of the proprietors stated in Lapworth. This Robert Catesby
was attainted, 3rd James I, for participation in the Gunpowder Plot, and is said
to have been slain, with Percy, at Holbeach House, Staffordshire. Catesby's
house at Bushwood was the natural centre of the plot, but it was too small
a place, and, on the advice of Catesby, Sir Everard Digby moved to Thomas
Throgmorton's house at Cough ton, near Alcester. A tradition exists that he
fled, after the discovery of the plot, to his house here at Bushwood; but, as
he had before this time disposed of the estates to Sir Edward Greville, the
truth of this is very doubtful. A tradition also exists that the plot was laid
by Catesby and others, at a mill about a mile from the house. This mill has
long since been removed, and the bed of the pool cut through, the only vestige
remaining being an old barn, still called the Mill Barn.

The Hall stood nearly in the south east corner of the parish. A small
farm house, built in 1708, out of the materials of the old hall of the
Bishopdens, now represents it. Of the old mansion nothing remains. In the
garden, within the moat,(n) foundations have been dug up, showing, by their
extent that the original edifice was of considerable pretensions. That there
was a Hall, or Manor Place, in Lapworth, at an early date, is shown at p.
134; but whether on this site it is impossible to determine. If so, it is certain
that it was removed to make room for a more convenient residence for the
new proprietor in the time of Edward II: for Sir John de Bishopden entered
into an agreement with William Heose, mason, and John de Pesham, of
Rowington, to erect for him a stone mansion, at Lapworth, engaging to pay
them twenty-five marks by instalments. The style of this house, together with
its various rooms, &c., has been adequately noticed in the introductory chapter
of this work.

Bushwood, though so long connected with the lords of Lapworth, is an
outlying hamlet to Old Stratford, from which it is distant about ten miles.
Dugdale considers that this place being, long before the Conquest, part of the

(n.) The area within the moat, which is 21 i feet wide, is 176 by 148 feet.

112

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

possessions of the bishops of Worcester, was continued to that see, and held
by successive bishops as part of the demesne of Stratford, and being a mere
wood was called bissopwude, afterwards corrupted to Bushwood. Here is still a
large wood, taking the name of the hamlet, which consists of two or three
farm houses and cottages, the population of which in 1891 was 34.

The adjoining farm to Bushwood is called Lafivorth Park. On this, in a
field called "Island Meadow," is a very deep moat; but no vestige of any
building within its compass, which is 123 feet by 119. William Catesby had
a grant, 2nd Richard III, bearing date Kenil worth Castle, 28th May, of one
hundred oaks, to be taken within the king's old park at Tanworth, and
Earlswood in Tanworth, with five hundred trees, for rails, in Lodbroke Park,
in the lordship of Tanworth, for making his new park here at Lapworth.
This farm; from its name, denotes the situation of the park, and on it there
are still large pools existing.

Keeping the road from Bushwood, and passing the farm houses called
"The Park" and "The Lodge," we come again into the Birmingham road,
and, turning to the left, soon reach Liveridge Hill, where commences the
parish of Beaudesert. From its summit a most extensive view over the southern
part of the country is obtained. Near to this, in a field to the left, are traces
of the Roman earthworks, called Camp Hill, described at p. 13. Southward
is a small knot of houses, called

BUCKLEY GREEN,

A member of Beaudesert, the history of which is little known. Geoffry de
Pauncefot and John Duvassal gave certain lands here to the Priory of Wootton
Wawen, Gilbert and William de Monkelee, with Roger, then vicar of Wootton,
being witnesses to the grant. In 1326, Peter de Montfort granted to John de
Lobbenham sixteen acres of land in the field called Bockeleyffelde.* In the
3rd Edward IV, lands in Bockley were held of the Catesbys.f In the parish
accounts of Beaudesert is an entry (1741), which relative to the letting of
Buckley Green Common to William Newland for digging and making bricks,
and erecting buildings for carrying the trade of a brickmaker.
The extensive parish of

BEAUDESERT

Runs eastward of the road through Henley-in-Arden,(i2) a short street leading
to the church being in the centre of that town.

(12.) The initial letter to this chapter represents the fall (•) Cart. Cott., xxvii, 137.

of water, called "The Fletchers," a short distance north (+) Rentals of Margaret Catesby, in Record Office, marked

of Henley. « Warwkk."

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. n3

Beaudesert or Beldesert was so called from its pleasant situation in the once
woodland parts of Warwickshire. At the Norman Conquest it was certified to
have contained, under the name of Donnelie, (its after designation as Beldesert
being given to it by one of its Norman owners,) one hide, with two plough-
lands arable, six villeins and two bordars with two ploughs, having a park or
inclosure half a mile in length and breadth, and of the value of 30^., (formerly
20.?.,) held by Earl Mellent, heretofore the property of Alwold, who held it
freely. From this Earl Mellent, the greater part of his possessions here passed
to Henry de Newburgh, his brother, the first Norman Earl of Warwick, who
enfeoffed Thurstan de Montfort, his kinsman, with this and other manors and
lands. On the hilly part of Beaudesert, .(where it is more than probable that
a stronghold or military station, in the time of the Britons and Saxons, had
existed,) he erected a large and strong castle, which continued to be the
residence of his successors for many generations. In King Stephen's time he
obtained, from the Empress Maud, a charter for a weekly market on Sundays
at his castle of Beldesert. This charter was renewed to Peter de Montfort, in
the nth Henry III, the market to be held on the Monday, at Henley-in-Arden.
Henry, eldest son of Thurstan de Montfort, succeeded him, and was a liberal
benefactor to Wootton Priory, giving to it his mill at Henley, with a messuage
and some land. After him was another Thurston de Montfort, who was a
munificent donor to Pinley Abbey, as will be seen in the account of that
monastic establishment. Dying, i8th John, his son Peter, being then a minor,
was placed under the guardianship of William de Cantelupe. In this Peter,
Dugdale states, the family of the De Montforts was in the meridian of its glory.
For his rebellious conduct towards the king, (Henry III,) his lands were seized,
but, feigning great contrition, they were restored, and himself again in favour
with that monarch, whom he shortly after attended into Gascony. In 34th of
this reign, he obtained a charter of free warren in all his lands here and in
other places, and the following year was made Governor of Horeston Castle,
Derbyshire. In succeeding years he received many other special favours and
honours, but again revolting, was taken prisoner, and confined in Windsor
Castle. Liberated in a few weeks, he, two days after, took up arms once more
against the king, who was made prisoner by the rebel barons. Escaping from
their custody, Henry assembled a powerful army, and in the battle that ensued
at Evesham, August 6th, 1266, Peter de Montfort was slain. His lands here
were, with his other possessions, seized by the crown, and a commission
directed to the Abbot of Bordesley and Prior of Studley, to take an account
of the number of acres of land, meadow, wood, and pasture, and the value
of each; as also of those that held in villeinage, with the rents and services of
the freeholders. This Peter gave to the canons of Studley, all his demesne
lands, called the Vineyard, situate at Studley, for the health of his soul, the

Q

n4 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

soul of Alice his wife; as also of his father, mother, ancestors, and friends,
whose bodies lay buried in the Priory of Studley. Peter, his son, was taken
prisoner at the battle of Evesham, but afterwards found favour with the king,
and his inheritance was restored to him, 5ist Henry III. With the De Montforts
Beaudesert continued till the 2ist of Edward III, when, by the marriage of
Guy, the last direct descendant of the house of De Montfort, with a daughter
of the Earl of Warwick, the castle and manor, with other lordships, passed
to the Beauchamps. This conveyance of the De Montfort property here, was
the result of an arrangement, by which an estate in tail was created in favour
of the Warwick family, in failure of issue by the before-mentioned alliance.
Thomas de Beauchamp, 5Oth of Edward III, granted, in the property thus
acquired, a life estate to his son, William, afterwards Lord Bergavenny, at a
yearly rent of one red rose, payable at the feast of St. John the Baptist. It
then passed to Sir Baldwin Freville and Sir Thomas Boteler, as recited in our
first day's journey, p. 24: The Boteler portion continued under the same pro
prietorship till the 4th of Queen Elizabeth, when it was granted to Ambrose
Dudley, Earl of Warwick, who, dying without issue, it reverted to the crown,
with which it remained till Alderman Cawdwell, of London, purchased the site
of the castle, with the park wherein it stood. The other portion of the manor
continued with the heirs of Sir Baldwin Freville, and was sold, 36th Elizabeth,
by Sir Edward Aston, who married a sister of the last knight, to Francis
Smythe, Esq., of Wootton Wawen, by whose family this and the other portion
are still possessed.

THE CHURCH,

Dedicated to St Nicholas,(i3) is of a more interesting character than several of
the churches in this neighbourhood, on account of the example (in excellent
preservation) of the late Norman architecture which it affords. It is not named
in the taxation of igth Edward I. In the valuation, i4th Edward III, it is
stated that "The church of Beldesert is not enlarged because of poverty, but
is of the yearly value of 40*." In the 33rd Henry VIII, when this place and
Henley were in the hands of the king, 209. were paid annually to the vicar
for the tithes of the herbage and pannage of the parks. (*) The valuation of the
living, 26th Henry VIII, was 7/. 16*., which was the sum valued for its sale
to John Digbye, i3th Mary, on the forfeiture of the advowson by John, Duke
of Northumberland, (t) The Church Goods, 6th Edward VI, were

(13.) A native o» Patara, in Lycia. He was appointed and school children,
to the see of Myra by Constantine the Great, in which

office he died, A.D 343. He is the tutelar saint of the (•) Accounts of Edmund Brereton, in Record Office.

Dominican Friars, and called the patron of sailors, virgins, (+) Harl. MSS. 606, f. 48.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. II5

j chalice and iij bells.

vj vestments dornix.

ij copes saye.

iij altarclothes.

ij towell.

ij candlestickes.

ij shett.(')

The living is now returned at 2Q2/., and the Rev. E. C. Chator, the present
rector.

The building consists of a western tower, a nave, with porch on the south
side, and a chancel. The latter is the most ancient part, having, at the east
end, a semi-circular arched window, as shown below, with highly ornamented
mouldings, both internally and externally, supported by plain round pillars
with capitals. The walls of the nave are of great thickness, showing their
Norman origin. In the north wall, a door, having a semi-circular arch, has

been blocked up, the only entrance being by the porch, on each side of which
are carved supporters of the seats, of Norman design. The tower is embattled,
and has a large obtuse arched window of three lights in two courses on the
west front. On the south side is a canopied arch, or niche, with ornamental
bracket at the foot, from which the image has disappeared. In the tower are
three bells. The nave is separated from the tower (of a much later date) by
a pointed arch, and from the chancel by a Norman arch, with zigzag moulding.
The east window is similar in ornament to the outside, and is filled with stained
glass, representing the Ascension, &c. It was presented to the church aln
memory of W. W. Lea, Esq." The chancel was intended to have been finished
with a stone roof; but the design was not carried out. Six pillars, or shafts,

(*) Papers, " Warwick," in Record Office.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

and brackets, from which the girders were to spring, appear to have been
completed, and remain in tolerable preservation. In the north wall is a carved
opening, or locker, which, most probably, at one time, was of a more ornamental
character than it now is. In ancient times it served to represent the Holy
Sepulchre at the Easter celebrations. (14) On the south side of the chancel is
a piscina, and near to the south porch a Norman stoup, the outer portion
broken off. A few monumental slabs are found on the chancel floor, in token
of former rectors, and one commemorative of Humphry Fairfax, of Ullenhall,
1688. The nave contains several marble tablets in honour of the families of
Welch, Lea, and Charles, of Henley-in-Arden.

The church as represented on p. 116, in 1868, was, in the following year,
restored. Some of the work was executed in harmony with the original character
of the edifice, whilst other portions of it were lamentably out of keeping with
the primitive design of the building. The porch, and low ceilings of the
nave and chancel, were taken down, the roof repaired, the chancel and south
entrance properly renewed, and the groined roof restored to the former. The
alterations in the nave (by antiquaries accounted as old, or older, than the
chancel) were not effected with equal good taste and judgment. For the five
Norman windows, three of the Early English type were substituted, and two
small square ones, and only one in the same position in the walls. The north
doorway and one window to the west of it, with their plain arches, were left
intact, testifying to the antiquity (1079 — 1098) of the structure. The mural
monuments were crowded into the tower, whilst the memorial slabs on the floor
were transferred to the church-yard.

The Parsonage House, on the north of the church, was interesting as
exemplifying the style of such residences in olden time. It was a large half-
timbered gabled structure, with small low rooms, and had not been inhabited
by any rector for more than a century. This has been taken down, and a new
Rectory built a little further east, and the surroundings improved.

The population of Beaudesert in 1841 was 205, scattered about an extensive
parish, to which we have referred. In the year 1891 the numbers were 167.
The number of families A.D. 1563 was only fourteen.

The Registers date from 1661, and several parish accounts from 1736. They
were damaged in the great flood of June i8th, 1872. They were dried, but

(14) These celebrations were typical of the interment in the early days of the Christian church, that Our Lord's

and resurrection of Our Lord, and took place from Good coming would be on Easter Eve, hence the sepulchres were

Friday to Easter Sunday. Lights were kept burning before watched through the night until three o'clock in the

the. sepulchre, and there are many entries of expenses morning, when two of the oldest monks would enter and

connected therewith in old church accounts, such as pay- take out a beautiful image of the Resurrection, which was

nents for wax for the lights, and to the sexton for elevated before the adoring worshippers during the staging

watching them. See SOLiHfM.. A general belief prevailed of the anthem "Christus resurgens."

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 117

not much care taken of them, like those of many other parishes. Such as
remained have been rebound in separate volumes.

Leaving the church-yard and small cluster of houses near, the traveller
will ascend the adjoining hill, called "The Mount," whereon formerly stood

THE CASTLE.

This edifice, as before stated, was built by Thurstan de Montfort. Dugdale
writes that this "Thurstan, finding it so capable of fortification, erected thereupon
that strong castle, whereunto, by reason of its pleasant situation, the French
name, Beldesert, was given, which continued the chief seat of his descendants
for divers ages; but, at length, through' coheirs coming to such families whose
principal mansions were in other places, to prevent the advantage, which in
times of civil dissension betwixt the houses of York and Lancaster, might have
been taken on either side, to the prejudice of its owners, (as I conceive,) was
either demolished, or suffered to go to ruin; so that now there is not only any
one stone visibly left upon another, but the very trenches themselves are so
filled up, as that the plough hath sundry times made furrows in every part
of them, to the great advantage of the industrious husbandman, whose pains,
through the rankness of the soil, hath been richly rewarded with many a
plentiful crop." What it was in Dugdale's time it is at the present day, the
site, from which the very foundations have been rased, affording rich pasturage
for cattle and sheep. The castle was in the possession of Peter de Montfort
during the civil wars in the time of Henry III. Taking part with the rebel
barons under Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, (of a distinct family,) he
was slain, as before stated, at the battle of Evesham, in the 49th of that reign.
From this period the fortunes of the family declined; and it is more than
probable that the castle dates its decay, and utter dilapidation, from this re
bellion. Certain it is that the materials used in its construction have all been
removed ; nor can there be much doubt that many of the timbers of houses in
Henley once formed part of the castle, the mortices in the framework showing
that the beams, &c., have been heretofore part of some larger building.(i5)

In the 50th year of Edward III, Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick,
granted by charter to William de Beauchamp, his son, for his life, "the castle
and manor of Beaudesert, together with all the lands, tenements, rents, reversions,
advowsons of churches, knight's fees," &c., in Henley, Whitley, Hazleholt,
Forwood, and Studley, he rendering one red rose annually for all services, and

(15.) In building the bridge over the brook between beam was dug out from the foundation, which there could
Henley and Beaudesert, in the year 1854, a large timber be little doubt had been so employed.

IX8 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

doing for him and his heirs, to the chief lords of those fiefs the services due
and customary by Iaw.(i6) License to crenellate this castle was granted, 3ist
Edward I., (1303) to William de Langdon, Bishop of Coventry.

The latest mention of the castle occurs A.D. 1144, in the accounts of John
Chamberleyn, constable of the castle, in which is a memorandum that a trifling
sum was paid "'pro emend? portic castrt"(*)

The chief outlines of the various works may yet be traced. (17) The
approach, or road up the hill, commences near to the church, at the end of
Beaudesert Street, and winds gently round the eastern side of the first elevation,
to the entrance of what was most probably the outer court. The whole of the
top of the hill was inclosed by massive walls, having a deep fosse running all
round them. This portion, the northern part, is remarkably steep at the top, and
has evidently been made so by art, its height being several feet above the level
of the southern portion. Parts of the ground have sunk considerably of late years.
This elevated part was connected with the southern portion by a narrow way,
most probably a covered one. At the extreme northern end, beyond the fosse,
there appears to have been a barbican or outwork ; and two others, one on each
side of the covered way, seem to have been so placed as to command the
defence of the ditch, or fosse, from one end of the hill to the other. It is also
probable that there was a considerable outwork on the extreme south, commanding
the approach by the road and its whole course up to the gate : so that we may
infer, from the extent, disposition, and nature of the works appertaining to the
defences of this castle, that it was next to impregnable before the invention of
gunpowder.

"Reared aloft,

And inaccessible the massy towers,
And narrow circuit of embattled walls,
Raised on the mountain-precipice! such thine
O Beaudesert! Old Montfort's lofty seat!
Haunt of my youthful steps ! where I was wont
To range, chaunting my rude notes to the wind."

So sung Richard Jago, A.M., son of a former rector of the parish, in the

(16.) Cart. Cott, xi, 70. The charter bears date at space within the outer wall, the end of the drawbridge

Warwick, July igth, 1377, and the seal of Thomas de next the ballium wall being guarded by a portcullis, or

Beauchamp, in red wax, remains. The witnesses are strong gate sliding between two towers, having iron spiked

Henry d'Arderne, William Bretonn, Nicholas Lyllynge, cross bars like a harrow, and which could be raised and

Thomas de Byrmycham, knights, John Morhalle, John let fall at pleasure. Sometimes there was a second or

Wyard, William Durvassal, and others. Dugdale calls inner wall and ballium. In the centre was the keep or

William de Beauchamp, brother of Thomas de Beauchatnp. donjon, the last resort of the besieged, and therefore the

strongest of the works. The walls were of great thickness,

•17.) The disposition of these works appears to have been and frequently the only light obtainable was through

pretty similar to that of the many castles erected in feudal loop holes, windows being dispensed with, for the sake of

limes. The first work was generally the barbican, a watch adding to the strength of the building,
tower, flanked with walls, erected beyond the moat. A

drawbridge united the barbican with the ballium, or (*> churches °f Warwickshire, 147.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

119

words of whose muse we will take our leave of a hill, from which, in this
undulating country, one of the most extensive views, south and west, is
obtained.

r .

^ E shall occupy this day's journey with the towns and hamlets

lying east of Henley-in-Arden, viz., Whitley, Preston Bagot,
Kington, Langley, Songar, Claverdon, Lye Green, Pinley,
High Cross, Holywell, Rowington, Finwood, Lonesomeford,
and Bushwood. Taking our way southward down the
street, and turning to the left at the end of it, we pass over
Blackford Bridge, (near to Blackford Mill,) so called,
doubtless, from the nature of the Ford over the stream here, whose floods fre
quently now render the road dangerous or impassable. Ascending Blackford Hill
we arrive at

WHITLEY.

A member of the parish of Wootton Wawen, comprised in two small farm houses
and a few scattered cottages. Whitley was formerly more populous, as, in 24th
Edward I, it is certified to have had seven freeholders, who yearly paid 30^. rent,
the pleas and perquisites being 2s. per annum. William the Conqueror gave
Whitley, like Wootton, to Robert de Stafford, and it then contained one hide of
land, a mill, and a wood, valued at 40^. It was held by one Drago, whose posterity,
it is supposed, adopted the name of Whitley, according to the custom of that time.
This family were long possessors under the De Staffords and the De Montforts,
who held under the honour of Stafford. In the time of Henry V it had come to
John, youngest son of John Harewell of Wootton, who styled himself De Whitley;
and, in iyth Henry VII, his son passed the manor into the hands of feoffees. In
i yth Henry VIII, Roger Harewell, son to the said John, sold it absolutely for 6o/.,
to John Smythe, the owner of Wootton, whose descendant, Sir C. F. Smythe, is
the present proprietor. The Catesbys also held lands in Whitley, temp, Henry VI >
and in the accounts of the rentals, 25th of that reign, particulars are given of land
in the field of Whetley, extending into the Marshes, and near the land of John
Stoke.(»)

(*) Papers, " Warwick," in Record Office.

R

I22 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Near to Whitley are two other small clusters of houses, called Kite and Preston
Greens, belonging to the parish of Preston. Descending the hill we enter the
village of

PRESTON BAGOT.

A public-house, with the sign of the Crab Mill, at its entrance, reminds us of
usages long since vanished, a mill, of that description, having once occupied the
site.

In Domesday Book this place was called Prestetone, and was then of large
extent, comprising, Dugdale considers, greater part of Henley and Beaudesert,
where there was then no habitation, and which were subsequently taken out of it.
Its extent, at this time, was certified to be ten hides of land ; five, with a mill rated
at i6s.j and woods one mile long and half a mile broad. These five hides, &c.,
which had been the freehold of one Turbern, were held by Earl Mellent, on whom
the king had bestowed the whole, and were estimated at 505. The other five, held
by Britnod before the Conquest, were now held of the earl by one Hugh, and were
valued at 40^. There were ten bordars, four bondsmen, one villein, and one
stranger. From this Earl Mellent, the manor passed, like Beaudesert, to the earls
of Warwick, in whose proprietorship it continued till the time of Henry II, when
it was sold to Ingeram Bagot, the earls of Warwick remaining chief lords of the
fee. From the Bagots, who gave the distinctive name to the place, it was conveyed
to the Knights Hospitallers, temp. Henry III, in which reign Simon de Stok and
others held one knight's fee of the heir of Simon Bagot, and he of the Hospital
of Jerusalem; and in jth and 8th Edward I, the Hospitallers are stated to have
held Preston for thirty years past.(*) In 2ist Edward III, Nicholas le Messager,
of Kenilworth, and Agatha his wife, showed to the king, that they had recovered
in the king's court at Westminster, against William le Muleward, chaplain, and
Walter de Kington, chaplain, seisinam of three acres of land, with the appur
tenances, in Preston Bagot. (t)

At the dissolution of religious houses, 3Oth Henry VIII, the manor was
resumed by the crown, by whom it was granted to Edward Aglionby, of Balsall,
Esq., and Henry Hugford, of Solihull, gentleman. From these it came to the
Throckmortons, of Haseley, and remained with them several generations. It
has since passed through various hands: John Mills, Esq., is now the owner of
the manor. The manor house is a large timber framed building,(i) probably of
the time of James I, and stands by the side of the Warwick road, close to the

( i.) In the reigns of Elizabeth and James I, timber frame- gables, were executed in oak and chestnut, with much

work became common in country manor houses. Wherever beauty of design and a singularly pleasing effect,

stone and brick were scarce they increased and multiplied. (»\ jf0t Hund., ii, p 226

The carved pendants, the barge boards of the roofs and i+\ £0f Q^- 65 ''

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. I23

bridge passing over the canal. Lord Leigh, Sir C. F. Smythe, and others,
also possess considerable property in the parish.

THE CHURCH,

Of the thirteenth century architecture, is dedicated to All Saints, and crowns
the summit of a very steep hill, immediately above the rectory, which was
rebuilt, by the Rev. T. J. Cartwright a few years ago. The church is of a
very poor character and consists simply of one continuous nave and chancel,
with a small brick turret for two bells, placed on the roof at the west end.
The entrance is by a timber-framed porch, through a Norman semi-circular
arched doorway, a similar one, now walled up, having been opposite, in the

north wall. Other traces of Norman architecture are found in several of the
windows. At the east end are two tre-foil arched single-light windows, filled
with modern stained glass, one representing Christ Blessing Little Children,
and the other emblematical of Acts of Charity, each with suitable texts, "In
Memory of Anna Cecilia, wife of the Rev. Theodore John Cartwright," obiit
May 4th, 1856. A new window, similar in design to the last-mentioned, was
inserted at the west end when the late alterations were effected. The windows
formerly contained the arms of Montfort, England, Lancaster, and Beauchamp.
The interior was, in 1854, refitted with open seats, and other alterations
effected, by the rector, aided by a subscription from the landowners and parish
ioners. The floor of the chancel was, at the same time, repaved partly with
Minton tiles, the space within the communion rails being wholly so. The
division of the chancel from the nave is effected by the reading desk and choir
seats on the north, and by the pulpit on the south. The font is octagonal,

I24 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

with quatrefoils on each face. The edifice has been further restored to some
of its early architectural character under the superintendance of Mr. J. A.
Chatwin.

There was formerly a monumental inscription in the church to the memory
of John Randoll, 1626, and there are others still existing recording the deaths
of several members of the same family. Other mural tablets to the memory of
several rectors of the parish, and branches of their families, remain.

CHANTRY.

Peter de Montfort, the last male possessor of the castle of Beaudesert,
founded, aoth Edward II, in this church, a chantry for celebrating divine service
daily at the altar of Our Lady, for the health of his soul, and the souls of his
ancestors and successors, endowing it with thirty acres of meadow, 55. 6d. in
silver, five strike of muncorn, and one strike of oats, to be yearly paid by certain
feoffees and their heirs to a priest, for the performance of such service.' As no
further notice is found of this chantry, it is probable that the revenues were
returned in the rentals of the Knights Hospitallers at the dissolution.

The patronage of the church has for many years been separated from the
manor, and is now held by the representatives of the Rev. Theodore John
Cartwright. In 1291, the rectory was valued at six marks and a half; in the
i4th Edward III, at 4/. 6^. &£; and in 26th Henry VIII, at 4/. It is returned
at 34<D/. In 6th Edward VI the Church Goods here were

j chalice & j bell, one hanbell.

ij vestment, silke.

ij copes, one silke, oon saye.

ij allies.

ij altar clothes.(»)

The rector is the Rev. John Heathfield. The rectory is situated on the
slope of the hill westward from the church.

The elevated situation of the church-yard affords to the visitor another of
those extensive wooded landscapes, peculiar to this part of the country; and
he will do well to rest awhile before descending the hill, and proceeding to
Claverdon.

The population of Preston in 1841 was 238; in 1891, 176. There were
only four families resident here in 1563. There is a small school kept in the
village at the expense of the rector.

Returning through the village, and passing the old manor house already

(•) Papers in Record Office.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 125

referred to, we proceed on the Warwick road ; and, ascending another high hill,
two miles further on we arrive at

CLAVERDON,

Which, before the Conquest, was the property of a Saxon, named Bovi, who
held it freely. It is stated to have contained three hides of land, a wood, one
mile in extent, five ploughlands arable, and sixteen acres of meadow. There
were within its limits a priest, fourteen bordars, twelve villeins, and three
bondsmen. This place was also a parcel of the lands given by the Conqueror
to Earl Mellent, which descended through various branches of the families of
successive earls of Warwick.

In yth and 8th Edward I, the jurors at the Inquisition held at Stratford,
presented that the liberty of Claverdon impeded common justice by not per
mitting the king's bailiffs to perform their office there without their officers. (*)
In 1 3th of the same reign, William de Beauchamp, one of the earls, claimed
a gallows, with assize of bread and beer in the manor. It continued through
several generations with the Warwick family, but was in the hands of the crown
in the time of Edward IV, when a patent was granted to Edmund Verney,
Esq., as parker of the park of Claredon, on account of the minority of Edward,
son of the late Duke of Clarence, to hold during his minority ;(t) and in the and
Richard III, a warrant was issued, dated Nottingham, September 27th, to
"thauditours and receiu's of the lordeship of Clauerdon, to demaund nothing
of Edmund Verney, squier, marshall of the hall, for the pannage(a) of the
park of Clau'don, in counte of Walwik."(J)

The rentals of the manor, &c., 23rd and 24th Henry VII, are given in
the accounts of William Hankorne, the Prepositor for the king,(§) viz:

£ s. d.

Arrears - o o o

Rent of assize - - 16 5 zj

Customary rents(3) - - i 14 2

Farm of the kings's manor - -200

Farm of the demesne lands - o 10 q

Farm of a horse mill - - o n 8

Carried forward £21 i 9^

(2.) Pannage or pamiage.— This was a grant to graze (*) Rof_ Hund, ii, 226.
and depasture horses and cattle, which the law calls agist-

ment, upon an implied contract not to seize the same to (t) Patent Rolls, part i.

the lord's use.— See Blackstone. ^ ffar[_ MSS., 433, folio 1906.

(3.) One of the customs was called Fodryngsilver. (5) Papers, " Warwick," in Record Office.

I26 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

£ s. d.

Brought forward 21 i 9}

Herbage of the parkU) -
Herbage of the king's meadow i 6 8

Farm of the fishery 034

Sale of wood ...

Perquisites of the court -

18 3

£24 10 oj

The crown, 26th Henry VIII, leased the manor to Roger Wai ford for
twenty-one years; but Edward VI, in the first of his reign, granted the
inheritance of it to John Dudley, Earl of Warwick. On his attainder, ist Mary,
the queen leased it for forty years, at a rent of 2-jl. %s. \d., to Clement
Throckmorton, Esq., of the neighbouring village of Haseley;(*) but, in 4th
Elizabeth, it was given to Ambrose Dudley, Earl of Warwick, through whose
death without issue, it came again into the possession of the crown. It was
afterwards purchased by Thomas Spencer, Esq., a younger son of Sir John
Spencer, Baronet, of Yarnton, Oxfordshire, whose granddaughter sold it to
Andrew Archer, Esq., of Umberslade, in whose family it continued til] the
death of Lord Archer, when in the division of his property among his daughters,
the manor came to the Honourable Mrs. Musgrave, and it is now the property
of her son.

The objects of interest in the village are the church, and what is now
called " The Stone Building." Proceeding to

THE CHURCH,

We find an edifice, almost new, in no very good architectural taste. It appears
that there was a church here in Saxon times ; and the building that preceded
the present one consisted of a tower, (still standing,) nave, chancel, south aisle,
and porch. The nave was wholly pulled down in the year 1830, when the
nave, south aisle, and chancel were built, at a cost of I2OO/., the funds being
provided from a charity left by one John Matthews, (5) to whose memory a
tomb stands in the church-yard, containing some verses relative to the gift,
but of no sufficient merit to quote. The church is dedicated to St. Michael.
The tower is embattled, having the bases of pinnacles at the corners, and has
a projecting staircase up to the string course. The entrance is now through
the pointed arched doorway of the tower; over which is a pointed arched

(4.) Pour pounds was the usual rent, but at this time, in the park during the winter,
like the park at Henley, the herbage was reserved for the

support of the king's colts and mares, called the stud. <5-) The value of the estate is shown bv the inscription

Also no rent was received for a certain meadow in Closham, on the tomb-viz., in 1617, Rent, 12 Nobles; in 1707, Rent,

because six cart loads of hay was annually cut from the I2 Pounds; in 1825, Rent, 78 Pounds,
said meadow and preserved for the support of the beasts (.j Latudown MS., No. 109, f. 184.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

127

window of three lights. The nave and south aisle are covered with a roof of
one span. The chancel has, like the nave, a high ridge roof, and contains on
each side two flat headed windows, divided by mullions and transoms into six
lights. The east window is larger and square headed, divided in a similar
manner into eight lights. A doorway, having a plain pointed arch, is pierced
between the windows on the south side. No division by pillars separates the
nave and aisle, and the roof is plastered between slight timber girders, with
bosses at the intersections. A gallery, containing a small organ, runs on the
south and west sides. The chancel is divided^selfr the nave by a high pointed
arch.

In 1877, these unsightly portions of the church were removed. Between the
tower and chancel the nave and aisles were rebuilt in the decorated style. The
edifice, therefore, now comprises tower, nave, aisles, and chancel, with new
windows in the body of the church, all in conformity with the original lines
of the building. The windows however, in the chancel, which were inserted
when the Spencer Monument was raised, were retained. For these judicious
changes the parish is indebted to the zeal of the Rev. E. A. Kempson, the
then vicar; the structural alterations were carried out by Mr. Ewan Christian
of London, as architect.

In the chancel is a lofty tomb, with pillars and canopy. Over this is a
coat of arms, helmet, crest, and other insignia. It is built partly in the north
wall, against one of the windows, and bears the following inscription:

Here lyeth the body of Thomas Spencer, of Claveydon in ye county of Warwicke, esquier, second sou
of Sir John Spencer of Althroope, in the county of Northampton, knight, who deceased the 8th daie

128 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

of November in the yeare of our Lord God, 1586. This Thomas Spencer married Mary Cheeke the eldest
daughter of Henry Cheeke esquier and had issue by her one only daughter Alice Spencer married unto
Sir Thomas Lucy knight of Charlcott in the said county of Warwick, knight.

All the daies of my appointed time will I wait.— Job adv, 14.

There are also mural tablets commemorating members of two families named
respectively Wilcox and Deakins, and the Rev. Robert Wylde, a former rector.
A late erection is one to the memory of Samuel Tertius Galton, Esq., obiit.
1844.

The font is a recent addition to the church, baptisms having been performed
previously by the use of a basin placed on a wooden pedestal. It is octagonal,
with sunk quatrefoils on each face, standing upon a like figured base and shaft.
In the tower are six bells of good tone, which, from the elevated situation of
the church, may be heard for many miles. On one of them is this inscription :

" In wedlock's bands all ye who join, with hands, your hearts unite,
So shall our tuneful tongues combine, to laud the nuptial rite."

In the exterior south wall of the chancel under a projecting obtuse arch,
is a tomb, with the following inscription:

" Here lyeth the body of Christopher Flecknoe, Steward to Thomas Spencer, Esqvier. To his master,
faithfull. To his friends, respective. Towards the poore, ever charitable. Having attained the age of
60, at his last gaspe, to the vnspeakable comfort of his sorrowfull freinds, and encovragement of all in
goodness, devovtly recommending his spirit to his most blessed Redeemer, at Claverdon, on the of

May, in the yeare of ovr salvation, one thousand hundred and

The south view from the church-yard is very pleasing, extending over a
highly cultivated tract, rising to the upland in the distance.

Connected with the history of this church, it appears that, 23rd Henry I,
Roger, Earl of Warwick, gave to the newly founded Collegiate Church of
Warwick, two parts of the tithes issuing out of the inclosures in the parish,
and also of the pannage of all the woods.

In 1291 the living was valued at fifteen and a half marks, the vicar's
portion being then six and a half marks. The vicarage, 26th Henry VIII, was
valued at 6/., the payments out being 8s. It is now returned at 3i2/. The
Archdeacons of Worcester have the patronage, which has been the case since
A.D. 1269, or earlier. The Rev. T. Price is the present incumbent. The
Church Goods(*) enumerated in the Inventory taken 6th Edward VI were

(•) Papen in Record Office.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 129

j chalice and iij belles.

iiij vestment dornix.

oon cope dornix.

ij altarclothes.

ij altar towell.

iiij cruett.

one crosse coper.

ij candlestick bras.

oon senser bras.

There are preserved in the parish two old overseers and constables accounts.
The former have some curious entries of expenditure, the latter relative to the
regular and local militias during the Revolutionary and Peninsular wars. They
are in the possession of Mr. John Rutherford, Arden.

The vicarage is a modern built edifice, standing on the east side of the
church-yard.

THE STONE BUILDING

Is situated northward of the church, adjoining a farm house. The portion
that remains consists of a square building of three stories, as represented in
the initial letter to this chapter. The front faces the east, and the entrance is
by a pointed arched doorway on the south. This doorway is in a projecting
portion of the masonry, extending half way up the side, before entering which
another arched doorway in a wall, reaching from the building to the farm
house, is passed under. Left of the doorway to the building is a window at
foot of the staircase. The front, or east side, contains six windows, two in
each story, of different sizes, but all with stone mullions and jambs. Two
similar windows, walled up, are on the north side; and on the west are several
single windows, which give light to the staircase. On this side also the chimney
projects from the first story to the top of the building. The south side appears
to have been connected with the other portion of the mansion, of which this
square remnant once formed a part, by an open court. That its extent was
considerable, there can be no doubt; for Dugdale says that the Thomas Spencer,
Esq., who purchased the manor of the crown, as referred to at p. 126,
"obtained a lease from the dean and chapter of Worcester of certain lands in
this place, built a very fair house thereupon, and for the great hospitality which
he kept thereat, was the Mirrour of this County." This Thomas Spencer died
in 1586, leaving one only daughter, married to Sir Thomas Lucy, Knight,
of Charlecote; but having no male issue, he settled this manor on Sir William
Spencer, of Yarnton, Oxfordshire. The manor passed as before stated; but the
land on which the remains of his mansion stands reverted to the dean and
chapter of Worcester. It has lately been vested in the Ecclesiastical Com
missioners for an annual rent charge, and since sold by them to Darwin Galton,
Esq.

13o THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

On entering the arched doorway we find ourselves in a hall, or lobby, at
the end of which is a room, approached by a similar arched doorway, having
a low arched fireplace. On the left a passage, with another arched doorway,
leads to a stone staircase, which rises to the top of the building. From this
staircase, the rooms on the second and third stories are entered. These consist
of two apartments on each story, one leading into the other. Each of the larger
rooms has an open fireplace of carved stone, flat at the head, the smaller
apartments having none, and appear to have been dressing rooms connected
with the former, with which the arched doorways communicate. The windows
of the larger rooms are divided by jambs and transoms into eight lights, and
those of the smaller into four lights. There appears to have been a tower at
the head of the staircase, the parapet surmounting it bearing evidence of
pinnacles or globes having been affixed at each corner. The parapet on the
other part also bears indications of a like ornament at the corners. What the
extent of this fair house may have been, there are but few foundations left to
indicate; but a careful inspection of the farm house adjoining will show that
the building extended considerably on this side. The external portion of the
chimney is large and massy, and the plinth and string course running along a
considerable portion of the south wall. Inside is another massive wall now
forming the side of a passage to the chambers, and the cellar presents nearly
all round the walls some portion of the original building.

We may, however, readily assign to this mansion the importance Dugdale
attaches to it by the evidences around of the extensive gardens and pleasure
grounds once connected with the place. The length and breadth of these towards
the east, though overgrown with rich herbage, is sufficiently defined to show that
they covered several acres of ground. The raised terraces appear to be the same
as when first thrown up, the central one extending in a straight line, about 220
yards from the building, and crossed at intervals twice by others running from one
side terrace to the other. These were, no doubt, often traversed by the gentry of
the county, when the "great hospitality" of the builder of the house and projector
of the pleasure grounds, was dispensed to his neighbours. (6) All this glory has,
however, departed, and nothing is known of the man save what his monument in
the village church imparts. Whether this building stood on the site of a still older

16.) Towards the end of Elizabeth's reign and during for protection from the wind, hedged in at both ends and

that of her successor, the angular and circular windows finely gravelled, whilst others had mounds breast high,

gave place to those of a square and tall form, divided by and often level with the wall, so as to overlook the fields,

transoms and placed in lengthened rows. Battlements Many had walks of turf dividing the garden into four

were omitted, the pile was more massive, broken by a equal portions. All around was redolent of sweet trees

square central turret higher than those at the angles. and flowers, whilst fountains, statues, obelisks, and other

The gardens of the period probably did not partake of a works of art contributed to the beauty of the scene,

similar change. These were generally laid out in terraces Bowling greens formed a portion of some, where "the old

and walks. The side walks were kept shady so as to knights and chaplains dally quarrelled and made friends."
afford shelter in the hottest sun. Some were like galleries

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. I3I

manor house must be left to conjecture. The earls of Warwick had, and Edward
III, a residence at Claverdon, as is evident by the grant of Spernall to one of the
Duvassals to hold in seargeantry, viz., by the service of giving attendance upon
the earl and his heirs at the castle of Warwick, or at their manor houses of Claver
don, Tanworth, and Button, at which of them he or they should happen to reside
upon Christmas day, Easter day, and Whitsunday, then and there to perform the
service of chief butler at those times, and receive a certain fee for the same.(*) The
present aspect of the remains is seen in the initial letter to this chapter.

A short distance from the building is Claverdon Leys, the seat of Darwin
Qalton, Esq., the owner of considerable property in this parish. It is a neat
modern structure, to which great additions were made in 1858-59.

The parish is extensive, containing several distinct hamlets and manors.
These the tourist may readily reach, if so disposed; but he will find nothing in
them of interest sufficient to recompense him for such a deviation. They comprise
Norton, which lies out of our district, two miles south east, Langley, Kington,
Songar, and Yarnigale, near which are some extensive earthworks (see page 133),
and consist of a few farm houses and cottages.

The population of the whole parish, exclusive of Norton, in 1891, numbered
576. In 1563 there were fifty-two families.

Here is a large National School, with residence, erected a few years ago, in
which the youth of this and neighbouring parishes and hamlets are receiving a
good education.

LANGLEY,

One of these hamlets, west of the church, was formerly of more importance than
at the present day. At the Norman Conquest it was given to Robert de Stafford,
with Wootton and other lordships. Langley was held of him by one Judichel, and
contained one hide and a half of land, with woods one mile long and half a mile
broad, valued at 40.9. This in Saxon times had been the freehold of Ernvi. With
the De Staffords the manor continued for several years. In iyth Edward II, Sir
Henry de Lodbroke, Knight, styled himself " Dominus de Langele ;" and two years
after, William Vaughan took the same title. The hamlet subsequently belonged
to Sir Baldwin Freville and Richard Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick ; but, in Henry
VI's reign, John Arden, of Park Hall, Esq., who was then lord of the manor, settled
it on his son and heir, on his marriage. Since then it has passed through several
hands, and S. R. Solly, Esq., is now the lord of the manor.

In this place was once a CHAPEL, which anciently belonged to the Church
at Wootton. In Thomas's edition of Dugdale it is stated that about 1208, the

(*) Escheat Rolls, 2nd Edward II, 45.

I32 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

abbot and convent of Conches (to which the priory and church at Wootton
belonged) complained to the pope that the rector of Claverdon had unjustly
detained the tithes and obventions of this chapel. On the cause being heard
before the papal delegates the parson of Claverdon alleged that his church had
had possession of them for more than forty years. It was proved, however, by
the abbot and convent, that they had always received these tithes till the time
of prior Ernulf, who granted them to W. Comin, the parson of Claverdon, for
the time of his life, on his payment of a pound of incense yearly. It was also
proved that before the late wars the inhabitants were baptised and buried at
Wootton, and that during the reign of Stephen, the lord of Langley and his
lady constantly attended the church at Wootton on feast-days, and that they
were buried there, and it was further shown that Comin regularly paid the
pound of incense, and that his successor for some time did the same, till the
wars came on, when he refused to do so any longer.

The dispute appears to have extended over fifty years, for in 1257 an
agreement was come to between the prior of Wootton and the rector of Claverdon,
in which it was provided that, from that time, the chapel, with the tithes,
great and small, should belong to the church at Claverdon, and that the
inhabitants of Langley should bury their dead and receive the sacraments there,
the rectors of Claverdon engaging to pay to the said prior, and his successors,
five marks and eight shillings yearly. The priors of Wootton having lost the
revenues of that priory (see p. 126) in the reign of Henry VI, the king gave
the patronage of the church, &c., to King's College, Cambridge; and in 22nd
of the same reign, a new arrangement was made, by which the archdeacon of
Worcester, then rector of Claverdon, agreed to pay to the said college 40^.
yearly, in right of their rectory of Wootton Wawen, and in default to forfeit
double that sum, and pay all costs.

Of the chapel, whatever it might have been, no trace remains. There was
a population of 152 in 1891.

KINGTON,

Another manor, is near to Langley, and was, like part of Claverdon, held
freely by Britnod in Saxon times; but, on the conquest, it passed to Earl
Mellent. It was then called Cinton, and comprised one hide and a half of
waste, valued at 5.9., the woods being estimated at IGJ. The monks of Bordesley
had, anciently, two carucates of land here, besides other possessions in Langley.
At the dissolution of religious houses, this manor, designated "The Grange,
Manor, or Farm at Kington," was granted to Clement Throckmorton, Esq., of
Haseley, and Alexander Avenor, and their heirs. The former died seized of it,

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 133

by the title of "Kington Farm or Grange," i6th Elizabeth. With the
Throckmortons it continued some time; John Parker, gentleman, was the
owner in 1734; and it is now the property of Lord Calthorpe.

The Grange, or Manor House, which is a rather large, half-timbered
building, is still standing.

SONGAR,

A farm lying south of Kington, was a manor also possessed by the monks of
Bordesley, to which it had been given, in the reign of Stephen, by William
Giffard, and confirmed by Roger, Earl of Warwick. At the dissolution of this
monastic establishment, it came into the same hands as Kington, by the name
of "The Manor, Farm, and Grange, called Songar Grange," and so continued
for many years. It has followed the fortunes of its sister manor, and by sale
has become the property of S. R. Solly, Esq.

YARNIGALE,

With few cottages surrounding it, this is still an open common, from the hilly
parts of which extensive views southwards and eastwards are obtainable. To the
south is BARNMOOR WOOD, where are earthworks and entrenchments, three or
four acres in extent, which would appear to have formed parts of the ancient
FOREST OF ARDEN. On its north side is a well defined causeway (twenty feet
deep), intersecting the fosses and connecting the enclosure with the open plateau.
The form of the camp (about a hundred and fifty paces wide) is slightly oval. In
all probability, like the mound at Beaudesert, the enclosure constituted a stronghold
of the tribes who occupied this primitive fort.(*)

There are several other small clusters of houses in various parts of the parish
of Claverdon, which need no special notice. One of these Lye Green, we travel
through on leaving Claverdon, and to the west of this is Yarnigale, having still a
large common, which being hilly, is a prominent object in the landscape. Pro
ceeding to the right, on leaving Lye Green, we soon come to

. PINLEY,

An extra-parochial place, consisting of two farm houses and a few cottages, and
anciently a member of Rowington. It then, like the latter, belonged to Robert,
first Earl of Leicester of the Norman line, who granted it to Robert Boteler, of
Oversley, in this county. This Robert enfeoffed Robert de Pilardington, who
founded, temp. Henry I, the

(•) Timmins : Warwickshire

i34 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

PRIORY OF PINLEY,

And gave to God and the nuns "all the land of Pinelcia, with the consent of Robert
Pincerne, of Oversleigh." Once established, the nuns (of the Cistertian order)
were in no lack of benefactors. They dedicated their institution to the Blessed
Virgin; and received grants of land, tenements, and tithes, in almost every parish
and hamlet adjoining. The De Montforts, of Beaudesert, were amongst their most
liberal benefactors. Thurstan de Montfort gave to the Priory the third part of all
his victuals spent in his house; viz., bread, beer, flesh, fish, and whatsoever was
dressed in his kitchen. Peter, son of the above, obtained the patronage of the
priory from Roger de Pilardington, temp. Henry III. He allowed the same tenth
of provisions as his father; as did also another Peter, his son. This Peter, 5th
Edward I, is supposed to have redeemed this charge, by granting to the nuns a
yearly rent of thirteen quarters of wheat and fourteen quarters of barley, on lands
in Whitchurch, which they are stated to have acquired by purchase of Peter de
Montfort, lord of that manor. This they were returned as possessing, agth of the
same reign. (*) Waleran,(7) Earl of Warwick, placed his daughter and niece under
the care of the prioress and nuns of this establishment, and provided for their
maintenance by a charter of which the following is a translation:

"To all to whom the present writing shall come, Waleran, Earl of Warwick, greeting. Be it known
to you all that I have granted, and by this my present charter confirmed, to the nuns of Pinnelei, two
marks of silver from my rents of Calverdone, to be annually received from my seneschal [or steward]:
one mark at the feast of St. Michael, and the other at the feast of St. Mary in March [Lady Day] : so
long, namely, as these nuns shall have the maintenance and guardianship of Gundred my daughter and
Isabella my niece, whom I have committed to their care. But if one of these girls shall be removed
from the charge and custody of the nuns, these nuns shall receive only one mark annually: and if each
shall be removed by my desire, I will be quit [or free] from those two marks. Wherefore, if by any
chance the said two marks shall not be paid to the before- mentioned nuns under the form prescribed,
the nuns shall deliver the before-named girls to me or to my heirs. Moreover, I have granted, and by
this my present charter confirmed, to the aforesaid nuns of Pinnelea, the redecimation of my demesne
of Walton, as a pure and perpetual charitable gift, for the salvation of my soul, and of the souls of the
countess Margaret my wife, of the earl R[oger] my father, of the countess Gfundred] my mother, of the
earl Wfilliam] my brother, and of others my predecessors and successors. Witnesses— Thomas Prior ;
John de Kibbeclive; Richard, my chaplain; William, seneschal; Roger Murdac; Ralph Selvem: Wido de
Oila: Roger, clerk; Symon, chamberlain, and others."

[With the seal of Earl Waleran. ]+

In Pope Nicholas's Taxation, A.D. 1291, it is stated that the prioress of
Pinley held at Pinley two carucates of land, each worth IQS. per annum, and a
mill worth half a mark. The total income was 2/. 6s. 4^.(8)

The accounts of William Hankorne, 34th Henry VII, (see p. 132,) show an
annual payment on account of lands formerly belonging to the earls of Warwick,
" in a certain pension annually going out of this demesne to the prioress and

(7.1 \ValeransucceededhisbrotherWilliamintheearldom (8.) Pope Nicholas's Taxation, folio, pub. 1802, p. 230.

<>f Warwick, A.D. 1184, and died A.D. 1204 or 1205. See The return was erased, but it stands in the Cottvtiian

f>nfj/ilf'.i R.ironagf, in which the above charter is men- AfSS. below the taxable value,
tioncd. (*) Inqttisit 'tones Post Mart. (+) Cottonian J/.V.V., xi, 16.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 135

nuns of Penley at 18.9. per annum, from an ancient custom."(*) Divers immunities
were also granted to these nuns in charters, by Kings Henry II and III.

The establishment is stated by Tanner to have consisted of a prioress and
three or four nuns. In the survey taken 27th Henry VIII, this house and its
possessions were valued at 23^. 55. nd. over and above the reprises, amounting
to 4/. 7.9. 8</., of which i6.y. tyd. per annum was yearly distributed in alms to
poor people, on behalf of the soul of Sir Peter de Montfort, and 12^. for the
soul of Sir Ralph de Sudeley, Knight. The high steward, Roger Wigston,
Esq., had a pension of 2os. yearly.

At the dissolution of the house, Margaret Wigston, prioress, was allowed
an annuity of 4/. per year, during her life, but the nuns obtained no compen
sation. In the 3Oth of Henry VIII, the king sold to William Wigston, Esq.,
son of the above-named Roger, the site of this monastery, with the manor of
Pinle, and all the demesnes thereto belonging; as also the lands in Shrewley,
Clardon, and Langley, with the croft at Hatton, and the said rent corn issuing
out of the manor of Whitchurch. The purchase money was 342/. us., for
which consideration these possessions were conveyed to him and his heirs, to
hold in capite, by the twentieth part of a knight's fee, i/. i6s. <^d, yearly, in
the name of a tenth, being reserved to the king, his heirs and successors. The
site and lands in Pinley were afterwards sold to — Cooksey, who held them in
1640, afterwards they were sold to Aaron Rogers, gent., whose son, John Rogers,
rector of Fenny Compton, possessed them in 1734. They are at this time the
property of Henry Wise, Esq.

Besides the above these nuns had possessions, as found by the survey,
in Haseley, Tanworth, Edstone, Watcote, Butler's Marston, Astley, Preston
Bagot, Warwick, and Stratford-on-Avon, in this county; Byley, and Chorlton,
Worcestershire; Goodrickton, Gloucestershire; Sybford-Gower, Bedfordshire;
and Shernford, in the county of Leicester.

The following were the prioresses :

Lucia de Sapy, November 5, 1269.
Helewysia de Langelegh, October, 1321.
Elizabeth de Lotrynton, March 4, 1324.
Matilda de Bret.
Amicia de Hinton, July 4, 1358.
Alicia Myntyng, March 12, 1426.
Margaret Wigston.

All that remains of the priory is comprised in portions of farm buildings,
which are situated in a sheltered valley, apart from any public road. The
exterior aspect will be readily understood from the engraving, presenting only

(*) Papers, " Wai-wick," in Record Office.

I36 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

the arched doorway (9) to what was formerly the church or chapel. Over this
doorway has been a large window, the lower parts of which are traceable
inside. Of this portion, the front or south wall has been taken down, and
brick pillars inserted, so as to adapt it for a waggon hovel and implement
shed. The north wall, in places, preserves a Norman string course, together
with the sills of two mullioned windows of three lights each, a third having,
most likely, been destroyed by the insertion of large folding doors. The walls
(two and a half feet in thickness) have, nearly to the level of these sills, been
taken down, the present roof resting a few inches above them. The projecting
portion at the east end, now a small stable, is conjectured to have been a
revestry. It was entered from the southern side of another apartment, now also

a stable, through a pointed arch doorway, which, though much dilapidated, is
highly ornamented with sculptured roses between the spandrels formed by the
arch and square head. This latter building has a plinth and string course
running on two sides of it, and west of the north door are the remains of what
appears to have been a water stoup. There is also a rather lofty doorway
leading into the remains of another room on the east, the sides still perfect, but
the arch gone.

Another doorway appears to have been walled up in the western side of
the revestry. A stone coffin, with circular head, lies broken in the yard; and
a fragment of a carved stone corbel is placed in the garden wall. A portion of
the present farm house exhibits remains of further buildings, viz., in the stone
chimney, and the plinth and string course on it and the walls running from it.

The grounds occupied three or four acres, surrounded by a moat, a con-

(9.) This doorway is more fully depicted in the initial letter commencing the next chapter.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 137

siderable part of which, filled with water, still remains. No definite idea can
be formed of their character, since nearly every clue to their original condition
has been utterly destroyed: where once the prioress and her nuns enjoyed the
pleasures of contemplation, the husbandman and his labours reign supreme.

"The moaning- blast will not declare,
How great thy pomp,— thy cloistered dwellers, where?
Thy vesper chimes are mute,— thy matin bell
No more wakes echo from the flowery dell."

Sir Symon Archer, writing of this place, (1610) says, "At Pynlye the scite
of the Nunry is uppon the side of a hille, not uppon the very highest ground,
other part of Pynleye beinge somethinge higher grounde. This hamlett of
Pynleye standeth upon a high ground, albeit not sensibly to be perceived,
there beinge noe sudden ascent the ground hereabout risinge by degrees."

Leaving the abbey, and proceeding northward we pass Pinley House, a
modern farm dwelling, with three other farm houses, called Cryer's (a corruption
probably of Friars) Oak, Holywell, and High Cross, names of significance in
times preceding the Reformation. This part of the country is not so thickly
wooded as some we have previously traversed. Continuing our course, and
passing for the first time over the Great Western Railway, we arrive at

A considerable village, pleasantly situated on a hill, and commanding an
extensive view to the south and west. This place was, in the Domesday Survey,
called Roclintone, and was certified to contain three hides of land, a church,
woods one mile and a half long, and eight furlongs broad. There were twenty-
seven villeins, and twenty-four bordars, with nine ploughs. It was held freely
by Baldwin, in the time of King Edward; but was in the Conqueror's time,
the property of Hugh de Grentemaisnill, and held of him by Roger, his
under-tenant. It soon, however, fell to the crown; for Henry I gave it and the
church to the abbey of Reading, in Berkshire, which he had founded, which
grant Henry II confirmed. In 1291 the monks of this abbey had here three
carucates of land, of the value of ioy., a carucate, two water-mills, and one
windmill, rated at 6s. &/.; also in rent of assize, i/., and the profits of their
own store in this place, one mark ; with pleas and perquisites, one mark and
a half. At the inquisition held at Stratford-on-Avon, yth and 8th Edward I,
before referred to, it was found that the abbot of Reading had here assize of
bread, beer, and other things, but by what warrant the jurors knew not; and
that the liberties of the manor impede common justice, because they do not

T

138 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

permit the king's bailiffs to perform their office without their bailiffs.(*) To
these, in Edward Ill's time, Thomas de Rivere and Richard Goodman added,
by gift, sixty-nine acres of land, and eight and a half acres of meadow, for
the maintenance of one monk, being a priest, to celebrate divine service daily
in the abbey church of Reading, for their good estate in this life, and for
their souls after death. These lands were held of the barony of Stafford. (10)
After the dissolution of the great monasteries, the manor was leased to
John Oldnall for twenty-one years, a lease which was soon surrendered, for
five years later the king settled it on Katharine Parr, his sixth wife, on their
marriage, as part of her jointure. On her death, 2nd Edward VI, it was
resumed by the crown, and was, the yth of the same reign, exchanged to John
Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, on whose attainder soon after it once more
reverted to the crown. In 5th Mary it was granted to the above John Oldnall
for another lease of twenty-one years, which seems also to have failed of ful
filment, since in 5th Elizabeth, the queen granted it to William Spinner,
gentleman, Alice his wife, and their son. This grant, however, again failing
from some cause or other the following year, the queen gave it to Ambrose
Dudley, Earl of Warwick, and his heirs; but, he dying without issue, it came
once more into the possession of the crown, and so continued till the time of
Charles I, who made it part of the dowry of his queen, Henrietta Maria, a
settlement which, with the exception of the interval of the Commonwealth,
continued in force till her death. The manor remained with the crown till the
year 1806, being leased to various parties : but, in that year, it was purchased
by William Smith, Esq., of Rowington. Since this time it has passed through
various hands, and is now the property of Edward Westwood, Esq., who is
enfranchising the lands of the few leasehold tenants remaining.

THE CHURCH,

Dedicated to St. Lawrence, is large, and of a better class of architecture than
many we have had occasion to describe. It comprises a central tower, some
thing similar to that at Wootton Wawen; but, in this case, rising near to the
east end of the nave, instead of forming a division between it and the chancel.
In addition to the nave there are narrow aisles, north and south, a small south
transept, a chancel, and a large chantry chapel, extending from the north aisle,
by the side of the tower, the eastern portion of the nave, and the whole of the
chancel. The tower, which is supported on four pointed arches, springing

do.) The revenues at the dissolution of religious houses an account of the possessions of Reading Abbey being lost,
are not a.-ailable in this instance, the volume containing (•) Rot. Hund., il, 226.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 139

from half pillars and piers, and rather low in elevation, is crenelated or embattled,
bearing shields on two of the battlements. The belfry windows are of two
lights, under a pointed arch, and within are five bells and a clock. One of
these bells, the fifth, bears a Latin inscription, which may be thus rendered:

"When I sound, if thou art not of willing mind,
Never to prayers wilt thou desire thy way to find."

The aisles are entered by pointed arched doorways, the south one having a modern
brick porch, and, east of the northern one, is the remnant of a water stoup(n) in
the wall. The aisles are each separated from the nave by two pointed arches, sup
ported by octagonal pillars, and have, along with the latter, ceiled roofs formed of
circular timber ribs attached to the rafters, horizontal ones dividing them into
panels, which are plastered. The chancel is divided from the nave by a pointed
arch, and is ceiled similarly. The east end contains a pointed arched window of
four lights, with tracery above, the upper portion being filled with modern stained
glass, representing, in the four compartments, the Birth, Baptism, Crucifixion, and
Ascension of our Lord : It has been thus ornamented as a memorial of the late
William Aston, Esq. The lower portion is covered with a white marble reredos,
containing the Commandments, the Creed, and the Lord's Prayer, and is inscribed
"the gift of Mr. Richard Reeve, citizen of London, A.D. 1750." Under the south
east window is a stone seat; but with no division into three stalls. This may have
formed the sedilia. An apparent unsoundness in the wall, east of this, indicates
the existence of a piscina, or the place where one has formerly been. The rood
screen was removed some years ago, part of it now forming the outer gates of the
porch.

The chantry, the roof of which is quite flat, is divided from the chancel by a
carved screen. This was no doubt " The Chapel of the Blessed Mary," mentioned
by John Hill, bailiff of Rowington, who directs, by his will, I5th Henry VII, that
certain wax lights should be kept burning therein, "before the statue of St.
Lawrence, "(12) to whom the church is dedicated.

The windows throughout the church are mostly square headed, divided by
mullions, and some of them foliated. The west window of the nave, which is
placed over an obtuse arched doorway, is similar to the eastern one, but with more
elaborate tracery. Above it, externally, is a blank shield, and, surmounting this,
an obtuse arched niche beneath the apex of the gable.

(n.) A basin, generally of stone, fixed usually on the nance of the Rood Light, the Paschal Taper, and the
east side of the great door, going into the church, which Sepulchre Light, and for prayers at certain seasons for
being filled with holy water, some sprinkled and others the souls of himself, his wives, and parents, for the abbots
crossed themselves with it as they went into church. of Reading, and for all those whose bodies rest, or shall

rest, in the church-yard of Rowington, for ever— Churches

(12.) This pious bailiff also left funds for the mamte- p/ Wara)ickshirei u> a<

140 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

The monuments in this church are numerous, and those of most ancient date
record the memories of John Woollaston, Elizabeth Wolascott, John Hancockes,
John Hill, Richard Reeves, with other benefactors to the church and parish. Two
incised slabs with figures still remain, one on the chancel floor, and one in the
north chapel ; on the latter of which is the following inscription round the fillet or
border :

" Here lyeth Jhon Oldnall and Isbell his wife late bayliff of Rownton, a worthy man to be hadd in
memory: who dyed the xi day of Augouste in the yeare of oure Lord God Mo. Do. Lviii, being of the
age of threescore and xvi yere, upon whose soule Jesu have mercy."

The font is circular, without ornament, having a plain square pediment and
round shaft. The pulpit is of stone, carved in panels, and stands on a half pillar
at the south east angle of the tower, the adjoining reading desk and clerk's pew
filling up the small south transept. There is a gallery containing an organ at the
west end of the nave. In the nave and other places are a few open seats ; but the
principal part of the church is fitted with high pews.

The church, as it appeared in 1863, has undergone considerable improvement.
In 1872 its restoration was skilfully accomplished by the parishioners, supplemented
by the generous aid of the late James Dugdale, Esq., of Wroxall Abbey. The
old-fashioned high pews, together with the west gallery, were removed, and the
nave and aisles furnished with oak seats, in keeping with those of the chancel.
The ancient rood screen was restored at the chancel arch, and the low roof of the
chantry chapel painted to agree with the original decoration of the interior. A new
organ gallery was also built on the north side of the nave, the flat ceilings removed,
and the timber roofs repaired. The chancel was also fitted with oak seats for the
choir, and the floor relaid with encaustic tiles. The bells have been rehung and
one of them recast. The registers date from 1638. No entries appear from
1655 to 1662, to which is the following note. — "John Wiseman, 1662. — By usurped
authority for these many years wrested wrongfully out of my living."

The church-yard is small for the extent of the parish, and is crowded with
graves, in connexion with which no memorials of any interest exist.

" ' They lived,— they died ; ' such is the sum,
The abstract of the headstone's page."

On the north side is the vicarage, a newly-erected brick edifice with stone facings.
Public schools on the National system are on the western side.

The abbot and canons of Reading, to whom the church was given by
Henry I, formerly presented to the living. At the dissolution of religious houses
the patronage reverted to the crown, with whom it still continues. The living was
valued, igth Edward I, at twenty marks, eight marks being the vicar's portion ;
and 26th Henry VIII, it was rated at ;/. us. yd., and 155. 2d. payments. It is

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. I4I

returned at n6/., but the present value is 36o/. per annum. The Rev. P. B.
Brodie is the present vicar. The return made of the Church Goods, 6th Edward
VI, was

chalice & ells, oon tie sance bell,
vi vestments, oon vellet, iiij silke.
oon cope, silke.
v altarclothes.
iiij albes.
iiij stream's,
iij ban' clothes,
ij candlestyckes.
ij cruets.

ij crosses, oon coper, oon plate,
yj towells.
oon altar fronte, say.

There were eighty-seven families in the parish in 1563. The population in
1841 was 1046, in 1891 the number was 833.

The situation of the village on a hill or rock, whence its name, makes it
one of the driest and most agreeable places in the neighbourhood; and, in
consequence, several neat residences have been erected. Land here, which is
divided among a great number of proprietors, accordingly realizes a better price
than in less favoured localities. Standing near Rowington Green, the view,
south and east, though not so picturesque as some in the district, is nevertheless
sufficiently agreeable, and the eye may roam

" O'er cultured plains, where hamlets tell
Of homes where peace and plenty dwell,
And, from its swelling hill, you spy
Each mossgrown turret greet the sky."

Quitting the village proper, and descending southward by the road to the
right, we come to one of several outlying hamlets, or clusters of farm houses,
called Finwood Green, and, shortly afterwards, to another named Lonesomeford,
a name, without doubt, derived from the former solitary character of the country
where the ford crossed the little brook that still flows onward to the river Arrow,
at Alcester. By Lonesomeford, the Birmingham and Stratford canal passes,
and a considerable trade is done in coal, lime, and sand.

LONESOMEFORD.

A mission room to accommodate one hundred and twenty persons was
erected here in 1877, for the convenience of the dwellers in this remote district
of the parish. There is also a small Nonconformist chapel. Here there is
also a small chapel belonging to the Independent denomination of dissenters.

The road from Lonesomeford leads through the lands comprising the

i42 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

hamlet of Bush-wood. On the right is a large wood known by this name; and
the few houses belonging to the hamlet scattered at wide intervals for the
convenience of the farms. One of these, called Lapworth Hall, though in the
hamlet of Bushwood, has, from its connexion in early times with the parish of
Lapworth, been described in our last day's tour. Here was formerly Bushwood
Common, inclosed in 1824, the improvement of which, since that event, has
progressed so rapidly that it is now become a very fertile tract of land.
The population in 1891 was 34.

Having finished this day's ramble, the traveller may either return to Henley
for the night; or, if he desire to save the time required to reach this point
on the morrow, retrace his way to Rowington, where he will find, at no great
distance from the church, an inn capable of administering supplies to his
weakness and rest to his weariness. Leaving him there, busily engaged in
cultivating an intimacy with the viands and beverages that will soothe and
satisfy his necessities, we wish him

" Good digestion (to) wait on appetite,
And health on both ; "

That, so fortified, he may be ready on the morrow to resume his exploration
of the beauties of the picturesque district into which he has penetrated.

HAVING Henley-in-Arden, a longer walk or drive (as the
case may be) will be involved at the commencement of
this day's pilgrimage, which will bring us to Wroxhall, a
parish in which we must pause awhile, for the sake of its
ancient Priory. Thence we shall pursue our course to
Baddesley Clinton, Packwood, and other places of minor
importance, but affording much matter for passing observa-
IZt^- tion and notice.
Proceeding, then, through Rowington, a road will lead us to the first-named
in the list of places to be visited, that is to say, to

WROXHALL,

Not mentioned in Domesday Book. Dugdale conjectures that, owing to the
barrenness of the soil, the lands here, like those at Hatton, though wooded,
were not mentioned in that document. The first information we obtain of
Wroxhall occurs in connection with the establishment of a monastery here.
Of the origin of this establishment we have the following fabulous story, quoted
by Dugdale, from a MS. in illustration of the superstition of the period. One
Hugh, a person of great stature, son of Richard de Hatton, holding this manor
and Hatton of the Earl of Warwick, going to the wars in the Holy Land, was
taken prisoner and kept captive for seven years. Reflecting, at length, that St.
Leonard was the patron saint of his parish church, he prayed earnestly to him
for deliverance. The saint twice appeared to him in the habit of a black monk,
and commanded him to go home and found a house of nuns of St. Benedict

I44 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

at his church. He made a vow to God that he would do so, after which he
was miraculously transported in his fetters, and set down in Wroxhall woods,
not far from his own residence. A shepherd, who was accidentally passing, found
him, and though at first much frightened at seeing a person so overgrown with
hair, he was persuaded to take a message to his lady, who, when she arrived
at the spot, could not believe him to be her husband, till he produced part of
a ring which had been broken between them, and which, when applied to the
part in her own possession, fitted it. After solemn thanks to God, Our Lady,
and St. Leonard, and prayer for direction, he was instructed where to build the
monastery, by the tokens of several stones pitched in the ground, in the very
place where the altar was afterwards erected. Two of his daughters became
inmates; and a lady, named Edith, from the nuns of Wilton, was installed to
instruct them in the rule of St. Benedict. Jago has sung this legend in his
poem of " Edgehill."

The history of Wroxhall is dependent upon that of the priory, up to the
time of its dissolution, as its nuns were owners of the whole of the lordship,
besides other extensive manors and properties. The foundation of the legend
we have referred to, is, most likely, that Hugh de Hatton had made a vow,
during his sojourn in the Holy Land, in acknowledgment of some great
preservation. This, on his return, he performed by building the religious house
here, in fulfilment of his pledge, sometime in the reign of Henry I or Stephen,
and giving for its support the whole of the lands in "Wrocheshale," with lands
and woods in the same place, the church of Hatton, and whatsoever belonged
to it, as well as the land at Hatton which Aytropus had, and so much of the
founder's royalty there as lay between the two brooks, with other property and
privileges in that lordship. To this liberal endowment, many other persons
added grants of land, advowsons, and payments from their estates, which
King Henry II further enlarged by the gift of ten marks yearly rent, for the
health of his soul, and the souls of his father and ancestors, to be paid out of
his exchequer, until otherwise ordered. The fresh disposition of this grant
occurred A.D. 1259, in the reign of Henry III, who assigned six marks of the
original donation to be paid by the Bishop of Worcester and his successors,
and four by the sheriff of Warwickshire. In i3th Edward I the nuns made a
claim of court-leet, gallows, and waifs in Hatton and Wroxhall, which was
allowed. In 1290 GifFord, Bishop of Worcester, made a visitation to this priory,
and in 1309 another was made by Bishop Landavon, at which time there were
twelve nuns on the establishment. The church at least, if not the whole
conventual fabric, Dugdale considers was rebuilt, or considerably enlarged,
previous to 1315, as in that year Walter de Maydenston, or Maidston, then
Bishop of Worcester, consecrated the church and high altar. In i6th Henry VII,
at the court of Isabel, then prioress, John Benet was admitted to a messuage

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 145

and three crofts, to hold according to the custom of the manor of Wroxhall.(*)
The priory, like the whole of the smaller religious houses, was suppressed
27th Henry VIII. In the previous survey, 26th of same reign, the nuns
were found to have possessions in Wroxhall, Hatton, Haseley, Beaudesert,
Hampton on the Hill, Preston Bagot, Radford, Burton, Walston, Marston, and
Brailes, in this county, besides other rents, &c., the whole valued at j8l. los. id.,
less 5/. 15.9. 3^. for various deductions. At this time, according to Tanner's
" Notitia Monastica," there were five or six nuns ; and on the dissolution, dame
Agnes Lytle, then prioress, had a pension of 7/. los. per annum allowed. Sir
Edward Ferrers was then high steward of the priory, receiving 3/. 6s. &/. per
year, and it was found that on every Maundy Thursday there were 20.?. distributed
to the poor people in bread and herrings, with is. in money, for the good of
the founder's soul.(i)

In 36th Henry VIII the site of the priory, church, belfry, church-yard, and
the lands in Wroxhall, with the rectory and tithes, were granted to Robert
Burgoyne and John Scudamore, and their heirs. From this Robert the manor,
church, &c., descended to Sir John Scudamore, Baronet, of Sutton, in the
county of Bedford, with which family they continued till the year 1713, when
the estate was sold to Sir Christopher Wren. With his representatives, through
Chandos Wren Hoskyns, Esq., who married the heiress, it remained till the
year 1867, when it was purchased by James Dugdale, Esq., of Manchester.
The prioresses were

Erneburga. Emma.

Helena. Matilda.

Sabina. Cecilia.

Helena. Ida.

Matilda. Amicia.

Sibilla d'Abetot, April 5, 1284.

Isabella de Clinton, of Maxtoke, obiit 1300.

Agnes de Alesbury, December 6, 1311.

Agnes de Broy.

Isabella de Fokerham, October 25, 1339.

Alicia de Clinton.

Johanna Russell, July 2, 1356.

Horabila de Aylesbury, August 19, 1361.

Alicia de Aylesbury.

Isolda Walshe, .September 3, 1425.

Isabella Asteley, July 20, 1431.

Jocosa Brome, obiit June 21, 1528.

Agnes L,ytle, 28th Henry VIII.

The approach from the road to

(i \ In the MS mentioned as recording the miraculous east dore of our close quier. His mother is buryed m

foundation of the priory, it is further stated, " The founder our church-yarde." This would refer to a building standing

dyed the xix of Marche, [year not given,] and he lyeth here prior to the present church,

buryed in our quier, under a marble stone, under the (•) Dugdale^ Monastic™.

ryed

U

146 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

WROXHALL ABBEY,

As it is now called, is by a fine avenue of oak and other trees, at the end of which
stands the church, the conventual buildings, and the modern mansion, the latter
forming the west side of the quadrangle that was once the court of the priory.
Beginning with

THE CHURCH,

Occupying the northern part, the tourist will find it of one continuous breadth
and height, without division of nave and chancel, with a brick tower at the
end of the former, rising from the roof. The main building is embattled, as
is also the tower, the turret of the staircase rising higher than the other part.
On the north side are five pointed arched windows of three lights, the centre
one being about half the length of the others, and having a corresponding
arched doorway, blocked up, underneath it. On the south are two smaller
pointed windows of three lights, and a third still smaller, the eastern portion
of the wall having two pointed arches, walled up, originally intended to open
on a southern aisle. The eastern, or chancel window, is pointed and of five
lights. There are two entrances, one south from the quadrangle, and one north
under the tower, leading from the church-yard, which is the one used by the
parishioners. This had, formerly, a timber- framed porch attached, which is now
removed a short distance over the pathway to the door. Entering by the door
way, which is a pointed arch, and exhibits a curious carved heading inside, we
find the interior furnished with plain open seats, having carved finials to the
heads; the pulpit and reading desk being towards the east, on the north side,
and the font, a plain octagonal basin and shaft, westward, on the south side.
The principal interest of the interior will be found in the stained glass windows
and the monuments. The windows, on Dugdale's visit, contained the arms of
Zouch, Say of Ricard's Castle, Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, England, Latimer,
Lodbroke, Montfort of Beaudesert, and others. Many remains of these still exist
in the four northern windows nearest to the east. There are also, in good pre
servation, a figure of St. Benedict, under a canopy; the effigies of a saint or nun
in the attitude of prayer; and many fragments of other figures, inscriptions,
oak leaves, and similar kinds of ornament. The eastern window has a coat of
arms in the four outward lights, the centre containing the rose and crown. The
western, or belfry window, of three lights, possesses the arms of Nevile, Earl
of Warwick. The remains of a piscina exist under the south-eastern window,
and a plain slab marks the sedilia. On the opposite wall, immediately under
the sill of a window, are three curiously sculptured bosses.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 147

Dugdale further states that, on a marble slab, was this inscription:

" Domina 3Ioco^a TSromc filia 3IoIjani^ TBvome tt

DC JEfcojrijall obijt JRCI 3lunif, anno ^Itj, winii."

This is now gone; but there are remains of incised slabs on the floor, at
the end now forming the chancel; whilst loose in the easternmost window of
the north is the brass figure of a lady in the costume of the fifteenth century,
of the original position of which in the church there is no evidence to show. (2)
On the wall, north of the communion table, is a mural monument to the
memory of Anna, wife of Sir Robert Burgoyne, Baronet, obiit, February 5, 1693,
aged 51. On the south side, another mural tablet to the memory of Christopher
Wren, Esq., and Mary his wife, who died, respectively, in 1771 and 1773.
Besides these, there are several tablets recording the deaths of members of the
Wren family and others. Seven hatchments of the Wrens remain in the church.
The roof is open timber-work, divided by cross-beams, &c. In the tower are
three bells.

The Rev. H. G. Wollavey is the present incumbent of the living, a
donative curacy in the patronage of the lord of the manor, but of which the
value has not been returned to Parliament. As the church, which, up to the
dissolution of the priory, formed part of the monastic establishment, was the
place of worship for the parish, it was preserved and dedicated to the use of
the parishioners, the parties to whom it was granted having the power to
appoint the minister and pay his stipend.

The Church Goods found here, 6th Edward VI, were

j chalice & iij belles.
ij vestment, dornix.
oon cope, dornix.
one altarclothe.

one towell.

•

Leaving the church by the south doorway, we pass into a room adjoining,
and thence into the quadrangle, or court of the priory, on the east and south
sides of which the old conventual offices continue almost in the same state
they were in when the religious community, located here, was dispersed.
Passing a pointed arched doorway, leading to the garden, about midway on
the east side is another, being the entrance to the chapter-house, in the interior
of which are six pillars with capitals, from which at one time a groined roof
appears to have sprung. On the south side, near to the eastern angle, is an

(2.) This figure is said to have been brought from the church of Brailes.

148

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

obtuse arched doorway, the wall, supported by massive buttresses, having pointed
windows. This portion of the building was the refectory of the convent, and
is now used, together with the entire range of offices, for the domestic purposes
of the modern mansion. Ascending a staircase to the rooms over the chapter
house, opening on a long corridor, or passage, are a number of small rooms,
the ancient oaken doors and frames, iron hinges, &c., being very perfect. If
these were the dormitories of the nuns, as the cicerone of the place asserts,
they are a striking contrast to what is now considered necessary for health.
In one of them are still preserved several old full-length portraits of nuns, &c.
This priory, like so many others, had its special relics, the principal being
the ring and chain named in the legend given of the founder. (3) These,
however, like the potent virtues of roods and crucifixes, had no doubt, as
Froude observes, "begun to grow uncertain to sceptical Protestants; and from
doubt to denial, and from denial to passionate hatred, there were but few brief
steps," so that when the "nuns were exposed to the wide world to seek their
fortunes," there were few here to mourn their departure.

THE ABBEY,

As the modern mansion is called, stands on the west side of the quadrangle,

(3.) In ancient times every monastery, every parish
church, had its special relics, its special images, to attract
the interest of the people. The reverence for the remains
of noble and pious men, the dresses which' they had worn,
or the bodies in which their spirits had lived, was in itself
a natural and pious emotion. The people brought offerings
to the shrines, where it was supposed that the relics were
of the greatest potency. The clergy, to secure the offerings,

invented the relics, and invented the stories of the wonders
that had been worked by them. The great exposure of
these miracles took place at the visitation of the monas
teries.— FROUDE'S England. A more mercenary- spirit,
according to other writers, actuated the king and nobility,
in their suppression. See Henwood Nunnery in next
chapter.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 149

the western front, shown in the preceding engraving,(*) being built by one of
the Burgoyne family, the other portions of the nunnery being at the same time
appropriated for offices. The interior of this mansion contains a wainscoted
hall, dining and drawing rooms, with chimney-pieces and various carvings.
The front has a portico entrance and large bay windows. The entrance hall,
which is forty feet long, is lofty, and the walls are covered with oak panelling.
The dining and drawing rooms are also similarly embellished, the former having
a fine carved oak chimney-piece. (4) The gardens, with a small lake, in front
give a pleasing aspect, and the view extends over a quiet wooded country, but
not so varied as some sites we have visited. Considerable additions and
improvements have been made by the new proprietor, James Dugdale, Esq., of
Manchester.

Wroxhall in 1891 contained a population of 176, twenty-four families
resided here in

Leaving the Abbey, and proceeding through the grounds in a different
direction to that we approached it, we quickly arrive at the Birmingham and
Warwick turnpike road, the northern course of which brings us speedily to
Bedlams End, a cluster of houses called Chadwicke, and now forming a member
of Baddesley. Taking the road to the left of the latter, and skirting Hay
Wood, we soon reach

BADDESLEY CLINTON,

A small village in Hemlingford Hundred. (5) This manor, formerly a member
of Hampton-in-Arden, in which it was included in the Domesday survey, had
at that time been given to Nigel de Albani, and was by him, or Roger de
Mowbray, his son, granted to Walter de Bisege, temp. Henry I. In this family
Baddesley continued three or four descents, till Sir Thomas de Clinton, of
Coleshill, who had married Mazera, daughter of James de Bisege, granted it to
James, the fourth son of the marriage for his patrimony, he paying one penny
per annum to his father's heirs, hence Baddesley Clinton. James was succeeded
by Thomas, his son, whose two daughters afterwards came to the estate. With
their descendants it continued almost uninterruptedly, till it was sold by one
Nicholas Metley, a lawyer, temp. Henry IV. This Metley, by his will, ordered
his body to be buried in the Temple church, London, and this manor to be sold
by his executors, the proceeds thereof to be applied to the providing four priests

(4.) Previous to the late transfer of the property the hall Barlichway Hundred, as is the case with the next parish,
contained a full-length portrait of Sir Christopher Wren, . Packwood. The remainder are all situate in Hemlingford.

with a large coat of arms, and brackets with figures in (*) The engraving shows the house as erected by Sir

armour, besides prints of the churches erected by him. Christopher Wren, which has now been replaced by a new

The drawing room contained some portraits, carvings, mansion of modern date (1868).
and miniature effigies of the various orders of nuns.

(5.) The whole of the places before described are in ^ HarL MSS-> 595-

i5o THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

to celebrate divine service for his soul and the souls of his ancestors, for one
year after his death, or two priests for two years, and to provide another priest
to do the same at Baddesley, for a like term, leaving his mother, his wife, and
Robert Catesby, his executors. The first two sold the estate to the latter; but
twenty years after, John Hugford, of Emscote, who had married Margaret,
daughter of the above Nicholas Metley, gaining possession, Nicholas, son of
Robert Catesby, seized and held it for several years, till he, in his turn was
ejected by the heirs of Hugford. Finding his title to be thus questionable, he
sold it to one John Broine, of Warwick and Brome Hall,(*) who held lands in
Baddesley prior to this time. This John Brome was high in office under the
crown, in the reign of Henry VI, but ceased to have any public employment
after the death of that monarch. In the 8th Edward IV he was mortally
wounded by one John Hurthill, steward to the Earl of Warwick, in the porch
of the Whitefriars' church, London, and was succeeded by his son Nicholas,
who, three years after, slew John Hurthill in Longbridge field. The widow of
Hurthill appealed against Nicholas Brome, on account of the murder of her
husband; but through the mediation of friends, the matter was settled (i2th
Edward IV) by the latter agreeing to pay ioo/. for the maintainance of a priest
in St. Mary's church, Warwick, to say mass for one year, and to pray for the
souls of John Brome and John Hurthill; and also to provide a priest, for two
years, to sing mass in the church of Baddesley Clinton for the same souls.
The manor and possessions at Baddesley after this came to Sir Edward Ferrers,
who had married Constance, the daughter of Nicholas Brome; and in this family
they have since remained. One of the family, Henry Ferrers, Esq., (referred
to at p. 108, as dying at Kingswood manor house, A.D. 1633,) left a curious
poetical descent of Baddesley, in a document which was in possession of the
family for some generations but is now lost. The following is a copy:

" This Seat and Soyle from Saxon Bade, a man of honest fame,

Who held it in the Saxon's time, of Baddesley took the name

When Edward the Confessor did wear the English crown,

The same was then possessed by , a man of some renown ;

And England being conquer'd, in lot it did alyghte

To Giffry Wirce, of noble birth, an Andegavian knighte;
. A member Hamlet all this while, of Hampton here at hand,

With Hampton so to Moulbray went as all the Wirce's land.

Now Moulbray Ix>rd of all doth part these two, and grants this one

To Bisege, in that name it runs awhile, and then is gone

To Clinton, as his heyre, who leeves it to a younger son;

And in that time the name of Baddesley Clinton was begun.

From them again by wedding of theirr Heyre, at first came

To Conisby, and after him to Foukes, who weds the same.

From Foukes to Dudley by a sale, and so to Burdet past;

To Mitley next, by Mitley's will it came to Brome at last.

Brome honours much the place, and after some descents of Bromes

To Ferrers, for a Daughter's parte of theyr's in match it comes:

In this last name it lasteth still, and so long longer shall,

As God shall please, who is the Ix>rd and King and God of all."

(•) See p. 109.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. i5I

THE CHURCH,

Dedicated to St. James, stands on an eminence, some distance from any dwelling.
It is small, and was at one time a chapel to Hampton-in-Arden, appropriated
to the monastery at Kenilworth, with the church at that place and its other
chapelries. The gift came from Roger de Mowbray, A.D. 1217, though it
continued as a rectory, and was valued at two marks, igth Edward I; at 3/.
6.?. &/. in 1 4th Edward III; and at 4/. 6s. &/. in 26th Henry VIII. In 6th
Edward VI the Church Goods were

oon chalice, iij belles, a handbell, and a sacring bell,
a pix, latyn.
a cope, silke.

iij vestm'ts, oon velvet, oon silke, oon dornix, w' iij albes to them,
two altarclothes.
a front of lether, gilt,
two candlesticks, pewter,
two cruetts, pewter,
a pax, latyu.
a corporys, w' a case.
M'd. That the p'ishe have sold sithence the last s'vey to the repa'cion of theire

churche, theis p'cells following:
a cope, silke.
a senser, latyn.
a holywater tynke, latyn.
a crosse, latyn.

The living is now united with Polesworth, and returned at 27O/. The Rev.
P. B. Brodie is the present incumbent.

The church consists of tower, nave, and chancel. The tower is embattled,
having an external staircase at the corner adjoining the south side of the nave.
The west doorway is a pointed arch under a square headed canopy or hood
mould. Over this is a large pointed arched window of three lights, with good
tracery heading. The belfry windows are of two lights, and the frieze or
moulding under the battlements is ornamented with projecting carved heads, at
the corners and centres of each face of the tower. This portion of the building
is said to have been built, as a modern inscription on the south interior wall
records, by "Nicholas Brome in the rayne of king Henry the Seventh." Dug-
dale states that he had seen a document showing that Nicholas Brome, whom
we have referred to as killing John Hurthill, in revenge for the murder of his
father, rebuilt the tower of this church from the ground, as also that at Pack-
wood ; and that he bought three bells of this, and raised the body of the church
ten feet higher, all of which was noted in an inscription on his monument, then
destroyed.

The nave and chancel have high ridge tiled roofs, and the windows of both
are principally square headed, with the excepting of the eastern window of the

152

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

latter, which is an obtuse arch of five lights, in two ranges. The entrances
to the church are by the southern pointed doorway in the nave, and by the
priest's in the chancel, which is also pointed, having a flat moulding over the
date, 1634, cut at the point of the arch.

The interior has been much neglected for years, and presents an unenviable
contrast to the church last visited. The pews, with their once carved panelling,
are fast falling to pieces, for want of timely repair; whilst a rickety gallery,
with rough old stools for seats, appears destined to fall down from the same
cause. A few ancient oak open benches remain. The open roof of the nave
is of oak, nearly on a level with the point of a lofty arch separating it from

the tower. The chancel division is by a low pointed arch, springing from
piers in the wall, and a rude oak screen of no merit.

The upper portion of the east window is of stained glass. When Dugdale
was here the figures and arms were perfect; and he relates that there were
"portraitures of Sir Edward Ferrers, knight, and the Lady Constance, his wife,
with three sons and six daughters, all kneeling before St. George," with the
scroll " Sancte Georgi ora pro nobis" proceeding out of the knight's mouth, and
accompanied with his and his wife's arms. This was in the upper part of the
window. In the lower division was the picture of the same Sir Edward, and
the holy Constance, with Nicholas Brome, her father, kneeling before a crucifix,

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 153

another scroll from the lips of Sir Edward having "Amor mcus crucifixus
Under these figures were four coats of arms of the Ferrers' and the families
to whom they were allied. These, with the monument to the same Sir Edward,
Dugdale intended to engrave, "that the beauty of them, which is so subject
to perish by time and unhappy accidents, might have been represented to the
world, for their lasting memory;" but the then heir of the family refusing to
contribute to the expense, the intention of the learned antiquary was aban
doned. What he feared might happen, has come to pass; the poor remains
of what has escaped being now placed in the upper part of the window, in a
miscellaneous manner. The centre light contains the Crucifixion, with a temple
at the head. The northern light is filled in with Sir Edward and his wife
kneeling before a faldstool, with books thereon, together with the scroll first
named. The southern light has portions of figures, (heads and busts,) and the
other scroll. The other two lights are filled with pieces of glass of no defined
shape, such as heads, parts of animals, coats of arms, &c., evidently collected
and placed here for preservation.

The monument of Sir Edward, being of more enduring character, remains
as Dugdale found it. It is an altar tomb with an arched canopy, and numerous
armorial bearings, situate on the south side of the chancel. The following is
together the inscription :

" Here lyeth Sir Edward Ferrers, Knight, son and heir of Sir Henry Ferrers and Margaret Hekstall
his wife, of East Peckham, in the county of Kent, Knight. He died the xxixth day of August, 1535,
leaving issue Henry, Edward, George, and Nicholas. Here also lieth Dame Constance his wife, daughter
and heir to Nicholas Brorae, Esquire, of this Mannour of Badsley Clinton, who died the xxxth day of
September, 1551.

"Here also lieth Henry Ferrers, their eldest son and heir, who married Catherine, one of the daughters
and coheirs of Sir John Hampden, of Hampden in the Countie of Buck., Knight. He dieth Anno D.
1526, leaving issue Edward Ferrers, married to Briget, daughter to William Lord Windsor, of Bradenham,
1548, and died Anno Dom. 1564.

Ecce hie in pulvere dormimus. Hie nostrcn resident gloria carnis. Disce mori mundo, Vivere disce Deo.

Hodice nobis."

There were also several other monuments in honour of members of this
family, and an inscriptiou relating to the chancel, the latter of which only
remains. It is on a stone over the priest's door and to this effect, that

"Edward Ferrers, Esqvire, sonne &
heire of Henry Ferrers, Esqvire,
& Jane White his wife, did new
builde and reedifie this chauncel
at his owne proper costes &
charges. Ano Domi 1634.
This Chvrch is dedicated to
Sainte James."

On the north wall are two hatchments, and a white mural tablet to the
memory of Mrs. Helena Ferrers, late of Aylesbury House, obiit 29 January,

x

i54 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

1840. Two old incised slabs are near to the priest's door, one having had a
large brass plate and two coats of arms thereon. These, most probably, are
the remains of the monuments named by Dugdale as "taken notice of" by Mr.
Henry Ferrers in the time of Queen Elizabeth, and then bearing the following
inscriptions.

In the chancel upon a raised monument.

C?ic facet "Bratm "Brcmr DiDua, filia
RaDulfi <3>tirlrp nulitis, tuionDam uror
Joljannijs T5romc DC 'BaDslrp Clinton
iirminfrn; qur obi it r Oir mrnjsp Jtilu
anno Domini ;fflCC66lnwi, cufu.3
aninu propitirtur Dntjs amen.

Upon a marble slab, with a large brass of a man in armour.

tyic facet pjjilippujB Purrfcp armtgrr
filhijs & l)ttt» flDiflirimi Piirrfrp Dr
'SrtjirfbrD in Com, JDar. armigtri;
HIM obiit rui Die mrnjsi^ ^/rptrmbn^
anno Domini ^CCCClcti, ntfujs
antmc propitictur

The communion table and rails are of plain old oak, the floor within the
rails being paved with encaustic tiles. The font is an octagon without
ornament, standing on a corresponding shaft. In the tower are three bells.
The Rev. P. B. Brodie is the present incumbent.

In 1874 the church was judiciously renovated through the generous efforts
of the late Lady Chatterton.

The gallery was removed, the nave provided with open seats, the floor
renewed, the chancel railing removed, and the east window restored.

In the church-yard are several old gravestones, the inscriptions on all
being illegible. It is a very secluded place, surrounded by woods and closely-
timbered hedgerows; and it is only on the Sabbath that signs of life are seen
here, and then but for a brief space. Then, indeed,

".Round its lone walls assembled neighbours meet,
And tread departed friends beneath their feet;
And new-briared graves, that prompt the secret sigh,
Show each the spot where he himself must lie."

Turning westward of the church-yard, we pass down an avenue of trees,
and at the foot of the slope come to

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

155

BADDSSLEY CLINTON HALL,

the seat of the family of Ferrers, of whom frequent mention has been made.
It is a fine specimen of the ancient fortified mansion ; and since it is unique
in the district we are describing, we may afford it a more particular and
extended notice than other mansions have received. A dwelling house, belonging
to John Brome, stood at Baddesley in the year 1450, as appears by a roll in
possession of the family; but whether it is to be identified with the existing
edifice is purely conjectural. The house, which is of low elevation, is of stone,
encircled by a moat of considerable depth. It forms three sides of a square,
the other side looking on to the moat from the inner quadrangle or court,
which is now converted into a flower garden. A bridge of two arches, covered
with ivy, conducts to the entrance. Here stood the drawbridge leading to

"The strong postern gateway,
Portcullised once,"

Which remains in its original state, under an embattled tower, the massive
door strengthened with strong bolts and bars of iron. Passing through this
gateway we come to the inner court, to the left of which we enter a spacious
hall, in which there is an elaborately carved stone Elizabethan chimney-piece,
with the arms of Ferrers in a circle in the centre, quartering Brome, Hampden,
and White, surmounted with a helmet and the crest, a unicorn passant, ermine.
In different portions are emblazoned other arms, scrolls, flowers, &c. This, as
well as the oak panelling with which the hall is covered, was formerly painted,
but has been recently restored by the former occupant, J. D. Muntz, Esq. In the

156

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

windows, too, are various amis and inscriptions connected with the alliances of
the Ferrers family.

On the left of the hall is an oak panelled drawing room, having a large
carved chimney-piece of the same material, containing the arms of Ferrers of
Groby: The windows, likewise, abound in arms and memorials associated with
family alliances. On the right is the dining room, which has a beautifully
carved chimney-piece, date 1628, supported upon pillars of the Ionic and
Corinthian orders, with arms, Ferrers quartering White, in the centre. In this
room are some good family portraits, and an additional series of arms and
records of marriages embellishes the windows.

Ascending the stairs to the sleeping apartments, it will be found that nearly
all are either wholly, or in part, lined with oak panelling, ornamented with
carving or heraldic insignia. One chimney-piece, in a room called "The Ghost's
Room," bears date 1634. The room extending over the gateway, named "The
Banqueting Hall," contains portions of oak panelling round the windows at
each end. These windows are square headed and of six lights, with stone
mullions and transoms. In this room is an oak table extending the whole
length; and on the walls are some family portraits. Beyond the Banqueting
Hall is a small room formerly used as a chapel. In connection with the use
to which this room was once appropriated, a curious bell is preserved, bearing a
Flemish inscription, "Jesus is \its\ name" and with the date i584.(6) Several
of the windows of the chambers, staircase, and passages, contain arms and other
mementos of family history.

Descending by a back staircase, which leads to the kitchens and domestic
offices, we find the walls of great thickness, differing much from other parts of
the building and indicating that they belonged to an earlier mansion once
occupying this site.

Henry Ferrers, Esq., and his son and successor, Edward, appear to have
been the promoters of the embellishment of Baddesley House, if we may judge
by the carvings and other ornaments, which are of this period: and it is not
improbable that the former, who was well versed in antiquities, was the designer
of the alterations made in the hall, and also at the church, the chancel of which
bears date the year after his decease, A.D. 1633.

The gardens, pleasure grounds, fish ponds, rookery, &c., outside the moat,
are of some considerable extent, and well planned : From many points of these
the view of the venerable remains is exceedingly strikingly and interesting.

The parish of Baddesley is extensive. Within its borders is a convent of
nuns of the order of Poor Clares, which order was founded by St. Francis of
Assissi, in the year 1212. It was established in 1850 by nuns from Bruges

(6.) This is probably the sacring bell described at p. 151, and brought here from the church.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 157

in Belgium, and there are now twenty-two nuns in the convent, Mary Victoria
de Seille being the superioress. For many years previous to their settlement
here, there had been a Roman Catholic Mission at Baddesley. The convent
adjoins the chapel of the mission, and has no particular chaplain, the nuns
attending all the services there. The present pastor is the Rev. B. Crosbie.
The convent is a large brick building, but of no architectural importance.

In 1891 the population of Baddesley was 132. There were only ten families
in the year 1653.

Passing, by permission of the resident of the hall, through the private
grounds, the road merges into another, leading the traveller to

PACKWOOD HOUSE,

A small mansion of the Stuart period, long the abode of the Fetherston family,
a branch of the ancient stock of Fetherstonhaugh, of Fetherstonhaugh castle,
in the county of Northumberland. They were here at an early period, and in
the reign of Henry IV John Fetherston, and Emotta his wife, were members
of the Guild at Knowle. In the time of the war between Charles I and the
Parliament, another John Fetherston, residing here, appears to have been, in
common with his neighbours, put to considerable expenses by one or both
parties. In the following letter, still preserved among the family papers, he
shows to what straits country gentleman were reduced during this period.

" Good Brothr— I am in a great distraction concerninge my armor (being altogeither unable to satisffy
my self in judgment and conscience what to doe) by reason of the genrall commands of the Kinge and
Parliament: my protestacon putts me in mind that I am bound in conscience to serve both, and yet
there seems now a very great difference betweene them, wh I humbly desyer Almighty God, if it be
his will, may be peaceably and timely composed and settled for the good of this throne and kingdome.
I have not yet sent in my Armes, eyther to my lord of Northhampton, or I^ord Brooke, because you
know I am joyned with Mr. Bettom, who is a known profest Papist, hee is to find the horse and man,
and I ye armor and pettronells and sadle. If I should deliuer my Armes to Mr. Bettom's man, I should
then haue done an act contrary both to the Kinge and Parliamt, who haue both declard that Papists

are to be disarmd. I haue, therefore my armor at yor house, and my pettronells I haue sent by

my man now, and as for my sadle I cannot haue it from Mr. Bettom's: I understand that Mr. Dugdale
lyeth at yor howse. I pray you prsent my Respects to him, and tell him my armes are there Ready, and
I desyer they may be Imployed for the safety of the King and kingdome. And thus prayinge for a
happy accomodacon of warr, with Remembranc of my love and best wyshes to you, I rest

" Yor dr louing Brother to his power,

"Jo. FFETHERSTON.

" My sistr & all my famyly are yet I thank God well, but now we are lately very much affrighted
by Reason of a troup of horsemen, that cam to some of my neighbours howses and did disarme them
and took away what they pleased undr coulor of taking of theire armes."

From the time of Henry IV until the year 1714, the estate descended from
father to son, when Thomas Fetherston, Esq., dying childless, bequeathed it to
his great-nephew and namesake, son of William Fetherston, of Harbury. He
dying also without issue in 1720, left it to his youngest sister, Dorothy, who

8 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

married Thomas Leigh, Esq.,(7) of Aldridge, in the county of Stafford. He
assumed the surname of Fetherston before that of Leigh, and died at Pack wood
i« 1755. leaving by his said wife, Dorothy Fetherston, one daughter, Catharine,
who succeeded to the Packwood estate, and dying unmarried in 1769, willed it
to Thomas, second son of William Dilke, Esq.,(8) of Maxstoke castle, on con
dition that he and his successors, should bear the surname and arms of Fetherston
only. This Thomas Fetherston, being killed by a fall from his horse,
unmarried, in 1814, was succeeded by his brother, Charles Dilke, who also
assumed the surname of Fetherston, and left two daughters, the elder of whom
married, in 1833, her first cousin, John Dilke, eldest son of the Rev. John
Dilke, Rector of Packington, to whom the royal licence was granted the same
year, to bear the name and arms of Fetherston only, the estate has since been
sold to George Arton, Esq.

Packwood house was built on the site of one erected at a much earlier
period; and it has since its erection been considerably altered. The park front,
shown in our engraving, was built in 1634; but has been altered by the
insertion of new windows, and the addition of a porch. A pillar sundial in
front bears date 1660, and near to it is a dilapidated fountain, the water formerly
spouting from a bear's head. The only part existing in its primitive style is
one of the stables, which affords a rare specimen of the massive oaken work
of the period. The interior of the house affords nothing for special commend-

(7.) He was great great-grandson °f Sir Edward Leigh, (8.) His mother was Mary, her half sister, only child of

Knight, of Kushall, sheriff of Staffordshire, 26th and 44th the above Thomas Fetherston Leigh, Esq., by his second

Elizabeth and ist James I, by Anne, second daughter of wife, Mary, eldest daughter of John Lane, Esq., of Bentley

Sir John Fennon, knight, of Eston Neston, co. Northants, Hall, and great-granddaughter of Colonel Lane, who shel-

and Maud, daughter of Nicholas, Lord Vaux, of Harrowden. tered Charles II. after the battle of Worcester.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. I59

ation, beyond a carved oak chimney-piece, two or three wainscoted rooms, and
a few paintings by Vandervelde, Vandermeer, and Teniers, along with some
family portraits.

The garden, adjoining the southern front of the house, is almost unique,
remaining in pretty much the same state in which it was first laid out. It
seems originally to have had, at each corner, a summer-house on a raised floor;
and three of these are yet to be found. By an iron gate we enter into another
garden, or series of walks, the centre one bordered with Portuguese laurels,
and columns of yews clipped into the shape of pyramids, &c. On each side
of this gate are apertures, or niches, at the bottom of the walls, intended for
an apiary, which was not found to prosper, by reason of mice and other vermin
destroying the labours of the bees. Proceeding up the walk, or avenue, by a
gradual ascent, we arrive at a terrace of similar character, having twelve yews
rising, at equal distances, out of the thick clipped box hedge inclosing it; and
in the centre of the southern hedge a spiral walk to an artificial mound, edged
by a clipped box border of great thickness. The summit, which is crowned
with a spreading yew, is equal in height to the house; and from it several
beautiful views are obtained of portions of the park. Descending, it will increase
the pleasure already experienced by the tourist, if he spend a little time in
further exploration of the grounds of this

"Rural seat,

Whose lofty elms, and venerable oaks,
Invite the rook."

The records of the family prove many of the trees to have been planted
in the interval from 1669 to 1711. Amongst them are fine specimens of purple
beech, flowering elm, variegated sycamore, &c. One large oak in the park,
opposite to the stables, measures from the extremities of its branches one
hundred and thirty feet.fg) A pit, called "Spratt's Pit," of great depth, lies a
little further southward : it was so designated in a deed of the time of Edward II.

About a mile north-wrest of the mansion are the church, the hall, and the
parsonage, together with a few houses constituting the village of

PACKWOOD,

The greater number of residences belonging to which are scattered about, or
near the different farms to which they appertain. The parish is of considerable
acreage, and was once a member of Wasperton, near Warwick, and belonging

(9.) This oak forms the subject of the headpiece of the introductory chapter.

160 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

for some time to the monks of Coventry. The first mention of the place is
in 7th Richard I, when it is stated that Philip de Kington levied a fine thereof
to Roger de Charlecote. It was, however, again in possession of the monks of
Coventry in 4ist Henry III, when a grant of free warren in Packwood, as in
all their other manors, was obtained ; and three years after, on the appropriation
of all the churches and tithes within their lands, this Packwood is specially
noticed. On the foundation of the monastery at Coventry by Earl Leofric, 7th
Edward I, and the appropriation of lands here, he is described as .Lord of
Packwood, amongst other places. At this time, the monks had two carucates
of land in demesne, and two tenants, holding one yard of land by performing
certain labours, being subject to such tax as the prior might impose: also six
freeholders, who held two yards and a half of land at several rents, and suit
of court twice a year. At the same time they had an inclosed park and an
outwood, not within the precincts of any forest. In igth Edward I, in the
taxation of the temporalities of the religious houses, it is stated that the prior
of Coventry had in Paavode two carucates of land, with a water mill, and
other privileges. These continued in their possession till the dissolution of
monasteries. In the survey previous thereto, a6th Henry VIII, they had then
here, rent of assize, gs. 5^.; lands, tenements, pastures, and a mill, value
I4/. 8s. 4^.; and the farm of the manor, jl. 14^. ^d.; out of which was allowed
to the bailiff, Thomas Hugyn, an annuity of i/. 6^. M. On the dissolution,
four years after, the king granted the manor and advowson to William Wellington,
and to William Sheldon who had married the latter's daughter, and to their
heirs. This William Sheldon sold it to Robert Burdet, Esq., of Bramscote;
and by his grandson it was sold to Thomas Spenser, Esq., of Claverdon, for
io,ooo/., from whom it descended to Sir William Spenser, of Yarnton, Oxford
shire. It was afterwards in possession of Mr. Russell, of Warwick, who left it
to his daughters, and who sold it to Sir Horace Mann. From him it came
to the Earl of Cornwallis, Bishop of Lichfield, and became the property of his
great-grandson, Philip Wykeham Martin, Esq., and is now the property of
his son, Cornwallis P. W. Martin, Esq.

PACKWOOD HALL,

With its moated inclosure, full of water, stands on the west side of the church
yard. Here, we may conclude, the priors and monks of Coventry maintained
an establishment; and from their well-stocked park of deer, and woods abounding
in game, kept the refectory of their convent amply supplied. The hall is now
occupied as a farm house, the moat extending round it, whilst an outer one,
to the west, surrounds the agricultural buildings, rick yards, &c. The house

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. l6l

has been lately rebuilt; but, to the curious in such matters, the moat, like others
we have visited, exhibits a good example of those means of defence by which
our ancestors provided for their safety in rude and troublous times.

Another farm house, southward of this, is still partly moated round. It
was called "The Glass House," in the time of Charles I, from the number of
its windows. In its original condition it occupied nearly the whole of the space
inclosed by the moat. This house is on the Fetherston estate.

THE CHURCH,

Dedicated to St. Giles, (10) belonged, as before stated, to the monks of Coventry.
It was reputed a chapel to Wasperton, in the reign of Henry VI, and therefore
not presentative. The curate had then the small tithes and the altarage for
his stipend, the monks retaining the tithe corn and all living mortuaries. His
stipend, with the glebe, was valued, 26th Henry VIII, at 5/. per annum. In
36th Elizabeth, the chapel here was granted to Edward Wymerke, and is
designated Capella de Pacwode cum pertinentiis.

The commissioners return as at Pacwoode, in 1551,

j chalice & iij belles, a handebell.
iiij vestment, two vellet, two saye.
ij copes, one silke, one saye.
one pixe, coper.
a crosse, laten.

(10.) St. Giles was born at Athens, and after disposing abbey for him. St. Giles died A.D. 795, and has, for some

of his property to charitable uses, travelled to France, reason, ever since been regarded as the patron of lame

where he became a hermit, and afterwards first abbot of persons and beggars generally.
Nismes, Charles Martel, King of France, having built that

i62 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

ij cniett.

ij candlestickes.

ij sensor.

iij to well.

ij altarclothes.

The living is now a perpetual curacy, returned as of the value of ioo/.,
but is really little more than 6o/. The Rev. P. E. Wilson is the incumbent.

The church, (n) or chapel, stands apart from the village, with no house
near except the hall, and a cottage formerly the parsonage. It consists of a
nave and a chancel, with tiled ridged roofs, and a tower with five bells, the
first and fifth the gift of Thomas Fetherston, Esq., in 1686, in which year the
other three were recast. On the south side is a timber-framed porch, and on
the north a brick-built transept, not at all in keeping with the rest of the
building. The tower, which is embattled, is ascended by a spiral staircase,
projecting from the south-east angle of the wall. It is in all its main features
similar to that of Baddesley, being built, according to tradition, temp. Henry
VII, by the same person and for the same reason. The proof of the latter is
wanting; but evidence of the person who erected it may be gleaned from an
inscription that formerly existed in one of the windows to the following effect:

"SDratc pro anima I2id;olai Bromc qui Canranil*
DC Pacfooou fifn frctt,"

The windows of the nave and chancel are of the usual pointed arch character,
the one at the east end being of three lights. The interior is partly pewed,
and partly seated with rough open benches, having a small gallery at the
tower end, which has cut in two the oldest monument in the church, date
1610. The roof of the nave, by being ceiled, is hid in a very unsightly manner;
and the insertion, at the time this was done, of six dormer windows, was no
improvement. At the eastern end of the nave is a piscina, the arch and finial
of which have been recently restored. The tower arch is pointed and lofty,
and the chancel is divided from the nave by one of similar character, under
which are remains of the screen and rood, surmounted by a large wooden cross,
recently added. There is a piscina in the south wall of the chancel, under a
pointed arch; and in the east window a representation of the Crucifixion in
very ancient stained glass. Under this, a few years since, was inserted another
subject, "The Descent from the Cross," after Rubens, the work of a young
Birmingham artist, presented by the late Mr. Samuel Fullard.

(n.) Here, as in the instance of Henley, we have desig- parochial worship, it is generally so called,
nated this a church, because, as the sole edifice for

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. l6^

The transept, as an inscription records, was erected in 1704, by Thomas
Fetherston, Esq., and a vault made under the same, « for himself and his
posterity." The transept is lighted by a modern semicircular headed window;
but, with the exception of the monumental tablets on the walls to the memory
of members of the Fetherston family, some of which are of good sculpture,
there is nothing of particular interest.

In the chancel there are several mural monuments to the memory of the
Aylesbury family, former owners and residents of Aylesbury House. There is
also a large mural monument in the nave, to the memory of John Fetherston,
Esq., of Packwood House, obiit 1679. The arms of Woodward are impaled with
those of Fetherston, over the inscription. This gentleman had two wives, each
named Isabella Woodward, daughters of two John Woodwards, one of Butlers
Marston, and the other of Avon Dassett.

The communion table and rails are of the usual character we have described.
The font is circular, on an octagonal shaft, and near to it is the parish chest;
a venerable relic of the strength of materials applied to such articles in olden
times.

The register of this church, commencing 1695, furnishes an interesting
entry of the marriage of the parents of the great lexicographer, Dr. Johnson, the
time and place of which does not appear to have been known to his numerous
biographers. (12)

1706. "Michell Johnsones of Lichfeld and Sara Ford
maried June ye igth."

The parsonage house, a modern building, is in a pleasant situation north
of the church, and in the direction of

AYLESBURY HOUSE,

Formerly a mansion of some note in this part of Warwickshire. The family
settled at it was a branch of the Aylesburys of Edstone, who possessed
property here, in Solihull, and other places in the county. The branch
located at this place occupied it for many generations, and several members
of the family are buried in the parish church, as before related. The

and his mother was Sarah Ford, descended of an ancient children, both boys, and was born September i8th, 1709.
race of substantial yeomanry in Warwickshire." Quoting King's Norton is only a few miles from Packwood.

164 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

house, standing a field from the road leading from Packwood, is a plain brick
building, of the time of the Stuarts, with a large open garden to the south.
Traces of fish ponds, and of more extended pleasure grounds than now exist,
may be easily recognised around the house.

A short distance west of Aylesbury House is

HOCKLEY HEATH,

A member of Packwood, consisting of a scattered group of houses, that prin
cipally sprang up in consequence of the two inns, which in the old posting
times, before railways were known, and when

"The twanging horn o'er yonder bridge"

announced the fast-going coaches then on the road between London and Bir
mingham, existed here for the convenience of travellers. These, in our days of
express trains, are dim reminiscences. The glory of inns has departed; the
larger of the two here has been converted into a private residence, and the other
figures as a plain roadside public house.

The population of Packwood was 320 in 1891, having nearly doubled since
the opening of the station at Dovridge on the Great Western Railway, many
good residences having been erected in the neighbourhood. A church has
also been built near, the services being provided for by the Rev. Canon Evans,
rector of Solihull.

Leaving this parish we may make our way to Knowle. In doing so, the
traveller will pass the station on the Great Western Railway, and near to
Darley Mill, probably the site of the prior of Coventry's mill in igth Edward
I: Afterwards his course will be in a direct line to that place, where he may
rest for the night.

OR this day's recreation of the traveller we shall confine our
descriptions and journey to the considerable town of Knowle,
the interesting hamlet of Temple Balsall, the nunnery of
Kenwood, and the ancient manor of Langdon. These
are all of great historical interest, the churches of fine
architecture, and will repay a lengthened inspection.

KNOWLE

Was anciently another member of Hampton-in-Arden, and is consequently not
noticed in Domesday Book. It is first mentioned in King John's time, when
William de Arden, of Hampton,(i) granted it to Amicia de Tracy, his wife,
as part of her dower. In 35th Henry III, Hugh de Arden, his son, had grant
of free warren in all his demesne lands in Knowle. William, son of the latter,
had a lawsuit with Peter de Montfort and others, relative to certain lands
here; and, on his death, his widow had Knowle assigned to her as part of
her dowry. This William and his brother Richard dying without issue, Knowle
came to one of the coheiresses, Amicia, wife of John de Lou, who sold it to
Eleanor, wife of Edward I. After her death, aoth Edward I, it, with other
manors, was given to the monks of Westminster, on condition that, on the
eve of St. Andrew, the abbot and monks should sing a Placebo and a Dirige,
with nine lessons; one hundred wax candles, weighing twelve pounds each,
being kept burning about her tomb, and every year new ones being supplied
for that purpose; that those candles should be lighted on every eve of the same
anniversary, and burn till high mass was ended; that, all the bells then
ringing, they should sing solemnly for her soul's health, each monk saying a
private mass, the inferior monks their whole psalter, and the friars' converts
the Lord's Prayer, &c., for her soul and the souls of all the faithful departed.
These and numerous other ceremonies and expenses, gifts to the poor, &c.,

(i.) This William de Arden had also a residence here, church at Hampton-in-Arden, it was provided that the
for by an agreement, A.D. 1217, between himself and the said William, his heirs, and their families, should have
canons of Kenilworth, relative to the advowson of the liberty to hear divine service in his chapel at Knowle.

166 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

were enjoined on the convent by a charter dated Berwick-upon-Tweed, 2oth
October, 2Oth Edward I, all of which being performed, the surplus of the
revenue derived from Knowle was to be expended as "they themselves should
best like."

The monks of Westminster leased these lands, 34th Edward I, for life to
Ralph de Perham, and in 8th Edward II he paid a fine of twenty marks to the
king for a confirmation of the grant of the manor of Knowle and Grafton, and
other hamlets thereto belonging ;(*) but afterwards they retained them in their
own hands. They thus continued till the dissolution of the abbey by Henry
VIII, when Westminster becoming a bishopric, they were annexed to it.

The return made by the commissioners from the monastery of St. Peter
at Westminster(t) was a follows:

Office of the Guardian of the Manor of Queen Eleanor. Warwick.

£. s. d.

Is worth in rents of assise, with rents & farms in Knolle 52 76

Site of the manor there --------- .-..I2 oo

Perquisites of the court there, every year 0584

Sale of trees there, every year 0500

In the whole as appears by the declaration, thence made - - - - - 69 15 10

Dugdale(J) states the possessions of the abbey here to have been:

£. s. d.
Rents of free assize & customary holdings •- ------17 13 9

New rents tg 3 ii

Moveable rents -----.... . ••''•*•!

Rents & fee farms lg 75

Tallages of customary holdings ... 2 15 2!

Farm of the park - 0134

Perquisites of the court -------------21810

Farm of the manor -- --12 oo

In 4th Edward VI, Westminster was made a deanery with secular canons, and
the jurisdiction of the bishop united to London. In 1556, Edmund Bonner, then
bishop of that see, leased the manor, for ninety-nine years, to Sir John Cope,
who assigned it the following year to his son George Cope. On its resumption
by the crown, 2nd Elizabeth, this queen, i3th of her reign, granted it to Robert,
Earl of Leicester, and his heirs, who exchanged it again, 23rd of Elizabeth,
for other lands under the queen, so that it again reverted to the crown. King
James, 2oth of his reign, granted it to Sir Fulke Greville, Knight, Lord Brooke,
to be held of the manor of East Greenwich, for the rent of 6;/. i6s. 8d. per
annum. With the Grenvilles, who left several excellent charities for education,

(t) Monasticon, i, 330; ed. ,830.
(+) Valor hcctfsituttcus, i, 416.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

167

&c., it continued till A.D. 1743. It afterwards came into the hands of a branch
of the Greswolde family, and in the division of the property in 1848-9, the
manor and advowson of the church were sold to J. W. Unett, Esq.

This fine old collegiate church strikes the eye on entering the village, as
far beyond the requirements of the parish. It was built in the latter part of
the reign of Richard II, by Walter Cooke, canon of Lincoln, who, it is stated
"bearing a special affection to this place, from its distance from the parish
church, did. for the health of his own and his parents' souls, erect a fair
chapel here, with a tower-steeple and bells, on his father's own land." The
place was then said to have contained about fifty houses, several inns, and a
town-hall, and situate a mile from Hampton-in-Arden, though it is three of
our present miles. The chapel he dedicated to the honour of St. John the
Baptist, St. Lawrence the Martyr, and St. Anne, (2) and he added to it a
church-yard, and endowed a priest to celebrate divine service, to baptize all
infants born in the hamlet, and to bury all persons there deceased. To further
this he obtained of Pope Boniface IX a special bull, containing an indulgence
for seven years for all who did penance, and made confession there, on certain
saints and holy days, and who bestowed something at such times for the repairs.

(2.) St. Lawrence, one of the most celebrated martyrs of St. Anne was mother of the Virgin Mary. The I^atin

the church, was by birth a Spaniard, and suffered a most church celebrated her day with great pomp, and attributed

cruel death in the year 258. He is said to have been, by many miracles to her relics, which were brought from

the order of Valerian, prefect of Rome, laid on a gridiron, Palestine to Constantinople, and afterwards dispersed in

and live coals, nearly extinguished, thrown under it, where the west,
he remained calm, till death put an end to his sufferings.

X68 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

He also obtained, ist Henry IV, a license to celebrate divine service from John
Burghill, Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, and another the same year from
the king, to Walter Cooke and Adam, his father, to found a chantry of one
or two priests, to celebrate the same perpetually in the same chantry, the
patronage of which the said Walter granted to the monks of Westminster.

The church consists of a tower, nave, north and south aisles, north transept
or chapel, and a large chancel. The tower is embattled, and has a projecting
staircase at the south-east angle. The nave has five clerestory windows on
each side, and is embattled on the south, with pinnacles at intervals, the
embattlement being a few inches lower over the fifth window, and taking line
with the chancel. The pinnacles have huge grotesque heads, feet and wings,
as gargoyles, at their base. The north side, which has a plain parapet, has
some of its pinnacles broken, the gargoyles remaining in tolerable preservation.
The south aisle is embattled, and in other particulars corresponds with the
nave, as does also the chancel parapet. The windows throughout the whole
church are nearly all of pointed architecture, those of the chancel being larger,
and exceedingly fine. Under each chancel window, nearest the east, are surbast
arches, and on a buttress above a carved headless fowl. The church, which
has no north or south door, is entered by a pointed arched doorway in the
western face of the tower, over which is a pointed window of three lights.
Passing through the tower, under a large acutely pointed arch, the interior of
the church presents a pleasing appearance to the spectator. The nave is
separated from the south aisle by four octagonal pillars supporting pointed
arches, whilst on the north are three of like character, with pointed arches,
and one half pillar and pier, with an obtuse arch, forming the division of the
north transept or chantry. The centre light of one of the windows of the
south aisle is of stained glass, illustrative of the woman touching the garment
of Christ, with the verse "Thy faith hath saved thee; go in peace." It was
placed here "To the memory of Thomas Satchwell," and others. The tracery
in the north window of the chapel is filled with various fragments of ancient
stained glass. The whole of the church has open timber roofs, the one in the
chantry having carved beams and bosses. The chancel is separated from
the nave by the rood screen, (3) there being no arch or depression of roof.
This screen is one of the very few perfect specimens of such ornaments now
to be met with. It is exquisitely carved, and had formerly, on the beam over
it, painted whole length figures of the Virgin, of saints, and angels. It has

(3.) The rood loft had its name from the rood or crucifix, rood lofts remain perfect in parish churches, strict injunc-

ancicntly set up in the middle of it. Here some of the tions for their demolition being issued in the first year

lessons, and other parts of the liturgy, used to be sung, of the reign of Queen Elizabeth,
before the change of religion. Very few of the ancient

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 169

been removed during the recent alterations, from the west to the east side of
the chantry, but its removal leaves the chancel still spacious and imposing.
The windows of the chancel, as before stated, are particularly fine, and the
peculiarity of clerestory windows over two of them, is worthy of note as an
unusual arrangement. In the upper part of the east window, portions of coloured
glass still remain. In the chancel were formerly seven carved oak stalls on the
north side, and six on the south. (4) In the south wall was a sedilia of four
stalls, high in the wall and of unequal lengths, with carved arches and finials,
and a cornice of oak leaves. Part of these have been walled up in the new
arrangements of the choir. The altar table is carved, with large bossed legs,
similar to others before described, and the rails inclosing it are of carved open
screen work. The whole of the chancel floor is laid with Minton's tiles.

The font, which is octagonal, with quatrefoils on each face, stands on an
octagonal base or shaft. In the tower are three bells.

In 1860 the interior of the church was restored to something of its ancient
state, by the removal of high pews and a gallery, and the substitution of open
benches in the body of the church. The old pulpit has been removed, and
replaced by a richly carved one on the south side, with a reading desk on the
north. The chancel seats, with finials of elegant foliage, have been renewed
and the Commandments, Lord's Prayer, and Creed, richly illuminated on a
slab, placed under the eastern window. The cost of these restorations was
upwards of iooo/., raised by the subscriptions of the inhabitants and friends
stimulated by the zeal of the present incumbent. They were carried out very
successfully by the contractor, Mr. Corbett, from designs and under the super
intendence of Mr. Neville, of Coventry.

This old collegiate church was once exceedingly rich in monumental slabs
and inscriptions, and its windows equally so in coloured glass, nearly the whole
of which time and the ruthless hand of man have destroyed. Dugdale particu
larizes and engraves the arms of Aylesbury, Somerville, Belknap, Brome, Ferrers,
Marrow, and others then in the windows, as also a kneeling figure of Thomas
Dabridgecourt in armour, in a window on the south side of the chancel.
Separate inscriptions also existed, in various windows, calling on the faithful
to "Pray for the souls" of Nicholas Brome, Edward Ferrers, Thomas Dabridg-
court, Thomas Marrow, Johanne Arnot, William Wigston, and Lawrence Eborall.
He relates, also, that a fair marble lay in the chancel whereon had been a
figure in brass, which tradition stated to have been of Walter Cooke, the founder

(4.) These stalls have been removed and the best portions a lion and a unicorn, are now fixed on two iron brackets
fixed at the east end of the south aisle. The carvings under the tower,
were particularly well executed, and the most prominent,

Z

I70 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

of the church. Near to it was another, having brass effigies of a man, his two
wives, and twelve children, and the following inscription:

£f pour rtanfp prap for tftr feouts of ffa, 3!olm Dabrisseourt, esquire, fofa
DferasrD tfcf rt)i Da? of 3JttIp, an. jaDrliui, anfl for rtjc *oulc* of Ralmnc
anD (Clijabftf) bus totorjs, on tofco.sr monies 3Irjsu,3 baut mrrc?.

One other monument was to the memory of Elizabeth, wife of Thomas St.
Nicholas, of Ashe, Kent, obiit March 9, 1631.

Of these, the first, considered to be the founder's, still remains in the centre
of the chancel entrance. It is a circular grey stone, four feet in diameter, and
had formerly a circular border of brass, and, in the centre, a scroll and two
shields. The Dabridgecourt slab lies near, but the figures and inscription have
been stolen.

Mr. Vincent, writing in 1592, when he visited the churches, &c., in this
neighbourhood, says, "Here is the picture of a man like a country m'chant,
w'th a side cassock and a square pouch, under written Rich. Wright. And
this Wright was the ........ upp sc old sq'ire Christopher Wright.'Y*)

Here also, sixty years ago, were monuments to the memory of the Grevilles,
Greswoldes of Malvern Hall, Spooners of Kenwood Hall, and Dousets. There
are now in the church others commemorating various members of the Grimshaw
and Wilson families, and others.

The living of Knowle was returned to the commissioners of Queen Anne's
Bounty at i5/. 135. ^d. It is now returned of the value of no/. The Rev.
J. W. Hatton is the present incumbent. The registers date from 1682.

THE COLLEGE OR GUILD. (5)

The munificent canon of Lincoln, Walter Cooke, referred to as the builder
of the church, and founder of the chantry therein, conferred still further benefit
on the place, by the establishment of a guild, for which he obtained, i4th
Henry IV, a license to himself, and others who, from devotion, should join
him in the work. The fraternity was thus established at Knowle, but as the
founder's preferment increased in the church, he, with the assistance of Elizabeth,

(5.) Antiquaries differ considerably as to the nature and consolation. Whatever their design, it appears certain

object of these institutions. Guilds were common in that the general good of their members was the principal

England Ixrfore the Reformation, and by some are supposed intent of these guilds, so as to produce, by union, that

to have been friendly associations; by others, trading which could not have been accomplished by individual

companies; and, by some, of a purely religious nature, exertion. For an Account of Guilds, see Appendix,

having for their object the administration of spiritual (•) Harl. MSS., No. 2129, fol. 161.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 171

widow of John, Lord Clinton, obtained another license, 4th Henry V, that they
and their executors might found a college of ten chantry priests; one to be
the rector, to pray for the good estate of them both, in this life and after
death, and for the souls of their parents and friends, as also of all the faithful
deceased. The Guild had a common seal, and was famous and popular in its
earlier days, many of the nobility and eminent personages in the neighbourhood,
as appears by the register, being members of the fraternity, amongst whom we
have mention of Aylesbury, Somerville, Brome, Belknap, Ferrers, Marrow,
Eborall, &c., whose arms were in the chapel windows when Dugdale visited
it. In the year 1462, there appears on the register members of lesser note,
— Thomas Baker and Henry Boiston of Bentley Heath, William Browne and
John Pratey of Solihull. In 1468, there are thirty-nine members enrolled
including Thomas Lee and Thomas Smyth of Shirley and his wife, the Rector
of Solihull, and John and Richard Smyth, weyvers.

The prosperity of the college and guild appears to have declined previous
to the Dissolution of Religious Houses; for 26th Henry VIII, (*) when the
survey took place, there were only two priests and the rector, John Townesend,
on the foundation, and the return of their income as follows:

COLLEGE; OR GUILD OF KNOLL.

Master John Townesend, Rector or Custodian of the Chapel of the said College.

Lands and tenements belonging to the said chapel.

The same renders an account of 20!. 155. zd., from the total rent of all the lands and tenements
whatsoever pertaining to the said chapel, within the domain of Knoll, in the county of Warwick : which
domain or manor of Knoll belongs to the abbot a:id convent of the monastery of Westminster in the
county of Middlesex, and the said custodian does not receive any other rents or profits for the
sustentation and for the stipend of himself and of two other chaplains there serving God, annually, and
to which he is held for ever.

Sum - 2Q/. 155. 2d.

Sum total of the whole - zo/. 155. zd., of which

Repayment of Rent.

£. s. d.
The same accounts in rent repaid to the abbot of the monastery of Westminster, 1

for the land there, annually
And there is allowed to the same for rent repaid to the prior of St. John of > 6 6

Jerusalem in England, annually i

And there is allowed to the same for rent repaid to the prior and convent of the , 0 6

monastery in the city of Coventry, annually (

Sum 2 20

Charitable Gifts.

And there is allowed to the same for charitable gifts, given on the anniversary
day of Walter Coke, the founder of the chapel, as appears by the foundation )
and ordination. of the said Walter, annually 35., and on the anniversary day of > o 7 8

Thomas Kyxley, lately rector there, one of the benefactors of the same chapel, J
annually 45. 8d., in all

Sum °

Sum of the allowances - -

And there remains clear, beyond the aforesaid allowances, annually 18 5

The tenth part of this sum • i 16 6J

(*) Valor Ecclesiasticus, ii, 75.

i;2 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

The return of the revenues of the chantry was 29/. 14?. id. per annum,
there being at that time three chantry priests, daily singing in the said chapel.

In the year 1553, John Browne and John Wright, incumbents, had each a
pension of 5/. 6s. &/.

An old half-timbered building, west of the church, is pointed out as the
ancient college or guild house, and is generally believed, by the inhabitants, to
have been such college, or the mansion of the founder or his family.

The village of Knowle is larger than many in this locality, and, like
similar places, broken up into groups of a few houses, there being no continuous
line of shops, &c. It had formerly a market, and still retains a fair, which is,
at the present day, of little account. There is a free school for boys and girls,
endowed by the Hon. Algernon Greville, and another endowment by the Hon.
Sarah Greville for clothing and educating boys for three years. There is a
small dissenting chapel in the village.

The opening of the Great Western Railway, on which line there is a
station for Knowle, has much improved its condition. Several new houses have
been built, and others are in progress, and the healthy situation, as its name
implies,(6) inviting the capitalist, its population in a few years appears likely
to be considerably increased. Near to the station, distant about a mile from
the village, the Dorridge estate has recently been laid out in building lots.

There were a few years ago, several old half-timbered houses in and
around the parish, formerly the dwellings of early well-to-do residents. Of
these buildings an excellent example will be found in one named Grimshaw
Hall, a house of seven gables, half-timbered walls, and other features of domestic
architecture.

The returns in 1861 give 1200 inhabitants as the population, in 1891 there
were 1818. The number of families, temp. Elizabeth, were included in the
return from Hampton- in- Arden.

From Knowle to Temple Basall the traveller will pass through a succession
of richly varied scenery. Quiet lanes with overhanging trees, which in the
spring and summer are resonant with the song of birds, abound here; whilst
the hedgerows are adorned with the variegated beauty of flowers which bloom
in wild profusion all along the path the tourist will pursue.

"From hill and dale new scenes arise:
The distant plough slow moving, and beside
His labouring team, that swerved not from the track,
The sturdy swain diminished to a boy!

Hedgerow beauties numberless, square tower,
Tall spire, from which the sound of cheerful bells
Just undulates upon the listening ear,
Groves, heaths, and smoking villages,"

(6.) Our old English Cnolle signifieth the knap of a hill, or an ascending ground.— Dugdale.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 173

all in succession meet and charm the eye, and lead us pleasantly on.

A short distance from Knowle, on the right hand side of the road, a
modern-built house indicates the site of the ancient

KNOWLE

From the antiquity of the latter house this place lays claim to special notice.
It was a large stone building, with a good frontage, its doorway sheltered by a
portico, or porch, the side wings extending from the front a considerable distance
along the lawn, so as to make the edifice occupy three sides of a square. The
lawn and garden was protected from the road by a stone wall, having pillars at
the angles and the gate in the centre. (7) The time of its erection is unknown,
but it was pulled down about fifteen years ago. The manor of Knowle being
leased, 4th Mary, by Bishop Bonner to Sir John Cope for ninety-nine years, he>
in the following year, assigned it to his youngest son, George Cope, who appears
to have resided at this hall till his decease in 1572; and there is a very curious
inventory and valuation still extant of his effects, now in the possession of the
Fetherston family. In it are enumerated the goods in the hall, the gatehouse,
in Anthonie's and his own chamber, in fifteen other offices and apartments, in
the mill, and a long list of horses, cattle, sheep, and pigs, besides many kinds
of workmen's tools and agricultural implements. It afterwards came into the
possession of the Greswolde family, and then to the Palmers, of Olton End,
from the latter of whom it came to Greswolde Lewis, Esq. On his death the
families of Wilson and Wigley, coheirs, obtained an Act of Parliament,
empowering them to divide the Greswolde estates. In this partition Knowle
Hall fell to the share of the Wilsons; and at the death of the Rev. — Wilson,
William, his son, sold it to R. E. Wilson, Esq. The present owner and
resident is G. A. Everett, who is also patron of the living of Knowle.
Approaching Balsall, on the left hand stands

SPRINGFIELD HOUSE,

The seat of the Boultbee family. It is a modern brick building of no very
marked features, and is distinguished by the greenhouses, pleasure grounds,
and fish ponds common to country mansions.

TEMPLE BALSALL.
No mention is made of Balsall in Domesday Book. At that time it

(7.) Knowle Hall, before its destruction, forms the subject of the initial letter to this chapter.

I74 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

constituted one of the many members of the extensive parish of Hampton-in
Arden, passing, like the rest, to Roger de Mowbray, who gave this portion of
his possessions to the Knights Templars,(8) hence Tcmf>lc BalsalL The Knights
Templars, on taking possession of this manor, erected a house and church for
their order, sending some of their brethren to reside here, and making it a
Precept ory, (9) subordinate to the Temple in London. In addition to this manor,
they soon had grants of lands from divers devout and pious persons, viz. the
manors of Barston, Sherbonie, and Flechampsted, besides smaller grants in
numerous other places, for the benefit of the fraternity residing here. These
they continued to enjoy till the ist of Edward II, when, according to Stow,
the whole of the order of Knights Templars in England were attached by
their bodies, and kept in safe custody, though not in hard or vile prison, until
the king did otherwise ordain, and their lands, tenements, and goods, as well
ecclesiastical as temporal, with all their charters and writings, were seized and
taken into the king's hand.(*)

Other privileges which they enjoyed in Balsall were free warren in all
their demesne lands, by charter of 32nd Henry III, a weekly market on Thurs
days, and two fairs, annually. Roger de Mowbray, i^th of Edward I, confirmed
all their rights as granted by Roger de Mowbray, his father, for which they
made him partaker of all their prayers and spiritual benefits.

The order of Templars being suppressed, their possessions reverted to the
original doi ors; but they were shortly after given, by the king, to another order
called the Knights Hospitallers. (10)

In 33rd Edward III, they were in possession of fifty messuages and fifty
virgates of land in Temple Tysoc, Temple Hardwicke, Xewbold Pacey, and of
the manor of Sherborne.(t) Leland, (time of Henry VIII,) speaking of Warwick,
says "There is a chappell of St. John in the Bridge End subtirbe, that
belonged to the Priory of St. John's in London. The landes of this came to
the Commander of

The Knight* Templars wet* instituted A.D. in*, and ucO This order took its name from an hospital, built

from having their first residence in some at Jerusalem, tor the use of pilgrims coming to the Holy

•tec *o the Temple at Jerusalem. Their business Land, and dedicated to St. John the Baptist. They were

to guard the roads for the security of pilgrims in the instituted about A.D. toa». and were very much favxmred

their rule, that of canons regular of St. by Godfrey of Bulloigne. and his successor Baldwin. King

*t was wh»te. with a red cross on their of Jerusalem. They followed chiefly St. Austin's rule and

ir cowing into Kngland was probably wore • black habit with a white cross upon it. They sooa

the reign of King Stephen, and their first came into England, and had a house built for them in

r**mn>s AW. V.w. London. A.D. i too: and from a poor and mean beginning.

(».» Preceptories were •MBMI or Tarafra of the Kn;«t,t« o***"** •» !*«« wealth, honours, and exemptions, that

T^pUr,Tbere they |oTS^JS£!Lv^£j "S^F* ""* *" **** ~ *' ** "* *—•

tfcer^mmento.ooe of t*« «« eminent TemptaS ««»•*• ~* ««« »*»-*« Pmrtia»enC»-JVgl«

wto ted beet, by the Grand Master oeated IV^xrptores **"' * *'

TrmpU." to Uke care of the lands and rents in that place ^ -ShW* r*nwvA>. 114,

n<icfcba«rhaod. «»d so were only cells to the principal <*> **g*»»'l Mtm^itinm. vH. «oo.

««> % M 1 -* - —

U) Ltitutft /timemry, iv. 6^

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

175

The new proprietors do not, however, appear to have always held this
place as a Comniandery,(ii) by the residence of any of their fraternity; for,
in the time of Edward IV, John Beaufitz, Esq., was the farmer of the house
at Temple Balsall, and resided in it. Some of the customs and services of the
tenantry in early times (on which we have remarked before) were in operation
here; for, among other obligations, the tenants of the Hospitallers were yearly
to mow three days in harvest, one at the charge of the house, and to plough
three days, one at like charge. They were also to reap one day, at which time
they were allowed one ram, or eightpence, twenty-four loaves, and a cheese of
the best in the house, together with a full pint of drink. They were not
allowed to sell the horse colts, if foaled on the land belonging to the Temple,
without the consent of the fraternity, nor to marry their daughters without
their license.

The dissolution of the monasteries swept this, together with their other
manors, from the possessions of the Hospitallers. Temple Basall, like Rowing-
ton, was assigned for the dowry of Queen Katharine, last wife of Henry VIII.
In the ist of Edward VI, the reversion was granted to Edward, Duke of
Somerset, and his heirs, to hold by the fortieth part of a knight's fee ; but he
being attainted in the 6th of the same reign, it came again to the crown, and
was given to John Dudley, Earl of Warwick. Upon his attainder, in Mary's
reign, the queen granted it to Edward, Lord Dudley; but it came again to the
crown; for the queen, intending to restore the order of Knights Hospitallers
in London to part of its ancient splendour, and having made Sir Thomas
Tresham, Knight, lord prior thereof, bestowed the manor of Balsall upon the
order. Dying, her successor, Queen Elizabeth, by letters patent, in the 8th of
her reign, granted it to Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, and his heirs. Coming
to his granddaughter Lady Katherine Leveson, she, by will, gave the whole
of this estate, in trust, for the building of an almshouse for the perpetual
sustenance of aged and infirm females, for ever, which endowment amounts at
the present day to a large income.

THE TEMPLE.

The ancient hall, or refectory of the knights, is situate near to the church.
It is now a receptacle for lumber, but was formerly a magnificent apartment,
framed wholly of timber, and divided by large wooden pillars into a nave and
two aisles, with crossbeams supporting the roof, which still remain. It is 140

(H.) Commanderies were the same among the Knights mander, who were allowed proper maintenance out of the

Hospitallers as Preceptories were among the Templars, revenues under their care, and accounted for the remainder

viz. societies of those knights placed upon some ol their to the Grand Prior in London,
estates in the country, under the government of a Com-

I76 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

feet long; and was, without doubt, when furnished and decorated with the
arms of the most eminent members of the fraternity, a goodly room. At the
west end is a small room, with several coats of arms, where the Court Leets
are now held. Affixed to the walls of the room are thirteen emblazoned
shields taken from some former building. One is the coat of arms of William
Weston, the last prior of St. John's previous to the Reformation. Dugdale
engraves five coats as here in his time, and describes them as painted on
the ceiling of a chamber of the house. They have lately been correctly restored,
and attached to the wall.

The most perfect relic of the institution of the Knights Templars here is

THE CHURCH,

Dedicated(ia) to St. Mary, and standing a short distance east of these buildings.

After the suppression of the order, it fell into decay, the dilapidation in
creasing till the year 1677. When the property became Lady Leveson's, she
directed by her will that it should be put into a complete state of repair. By
means of this reparation it is thought that the roof, gable terminations, and
the upper part of the tower, were rebuilt. The church was further restored in
the year 1849, when the upper part of the tower, then square, and not in
harmony with the other portion, was taken down to the head of the supporting
buttress, rebuilt in a like octagonal form, and surmounted by a turret, having
apertures on each face under it, and smaller ones on four of the faces of the
turret. A continuous parapet, with a course of finely carved heads, correspond
ing with that on the west end gable, was run round the tower, and extended
along the southern side, with the addition of pinnacles at the head of each
buttress. The interior was restored at the same time. The arrangement of
the tower as will be seen by the engraving, is not what is usual in ecclesiastical
buildings, so that it constitutes one of the principal features of this interesting
church, which forms one continuous and noble apartment, or hall, of equal
width and height throughout. The roof is a semicircular timber frame, with
battens above, supported by carved stone bosses.

At first entrance the extraordinary beauty of the tout ensemble of the interior
instantly arrests attention: its noble windows filled with varied tracery, (only
two being of the same pattern,) completely captivating the eye. The fine west

(12.) "There was no dedication of our Christian churches This time was called with us The Wakes, for waking, as

to saints, until praying to saints was in use; and after the Latin word I'igUte, or Vigilando, because at such

churches began to be dedicated to saints, their dedication times the people prayed most of the night before such

feasts were usually kept on that day, which was the feaS* feast day in the churches." -Antiquarian Repertory, ii,

day appointed in the calendar, for commemoration to that 425.
saint to whom such church was particularly dedicated.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

177

window of five lights, the centre one extending to the top of the arch, the
whole length, with the tracery over the other four, filled with richly stained
glass, has a remarkable effect upon the spectator, and one which it is impos
sible adequately to describe. The subjects in glass are Our Saviour and the
four Evangelists.

Over this is a fine circular, or wheel window, similarly ornamented. At
the east end is another window of five lights, with a small one over it. On
each side are three large pointed arched windows, of three and four lights,
with varied patterns of tracery. At Dugdale's visit the arms of England,
Peche, Revel, Weston, prior of St. John's, and another, were in the church.
There is no division of the chancel, which is defined by the three raised

platforms, paved with Minton's tiles leading to the altar, and by the two most
easternly windows on the north, the sills to which are built above the level
of the other. On the south of the west window is a canopied niche, which
probably once contained the effigy of the patron saint of the church; and on
the northern wall are three modern mural tablets. Near to the altar, under
the eastern window of the south side, are the sedilia and a piscinia of exquisite
beauty, which have been restored. They are divided by open stone pillars,
with capitals, arches, and finials, beautifully carved, the leaves and stalks of
the foliage being cut clear of the supports and edges.

The whole of the interior was renewed at the last restoration of the
building; and its open seats with carved heads, stone octagonal pulpit, having

2 A

I78 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

figures cut on the three front faces, stone altar, and graceful font, convey an
impression of delicate beauty which it is highly desirable to see imitated in the
renovation of other churches in the locality we have described. The only
entrance previous to 1849, was by the western pointed arched doorway; but on
this occasion the south doorway was reopened, and a priest's doorway added in
the chancel. The south doorway had formerly a stone porch, a portion of
the corbels, and part of the springers of the groined roof, still remaining on
the western side.

The remarkably handsome church of Temple Balsall is now supposed to
be in the same state of completeness as when it was erected by those military
knights whose former location here conferred its distinctive name upon the
village.

The church is the private property of the governors of the hospital, the
Rev. Shaw Stewart is the vicar, and is also the master of the

HOSPITAL OR ALMS HOUSES

Founded by Lady Katherine L/eveson. These stand on the north side of the
church, and were endowed by her with "the manor of Balsall, alias Temple
Balsall, with all the lands, tenements, and privileges whatsoever." They are
built of brick, and occupy two sides of a quadrangle, the house of the master
occupying the third. An ample green and pleasant walk from the road to the
church, runs in front of the building; and the evidences of neatness and comfort
enjoyed by the inmates, are an agreeable testimony to the munificence of their
noble benefactress. The revenue has so increased in value, as to provide for
a number of poor widows, or women not married. A new arrangement of the
charity has recently been made by an Act of Parliament, confirming a scheme
of the Charity Commissioners. The almswomen are now thirty-five, twenty
from Balsall and the others from Barston and Hampton-in-Arden. Each person
receives 6*. per week, a cloth gown, shawl, and a bonnet annually, with such
quantities of bread, milk, and fuel as the governors direct. A medical prac
titioner and nurse are also provided when required. Formerly the poor of
Long Itchington in this county, Trentham, Staffordshire, and Lilleshall,
Shropshire, participated in the benefit of residence. Four persons, of suitable
qualification, from each of these parishes now receive 8s. each per week, payable
through the officiating minister and churchwardens of those places. The schools
at Balsall are maintained, subject to a preference given to the children of the
hamlet. The master of the hospital, who must be an ordained clergyman,
receives 2oo/. per annum. He is also visitor to the school, and may act as

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 179

perpetual curate of Balsall. The bailiff, for superintending the estates and
property of the charity, has a salary of ioo/. a year. The almswomen are
selected according to the will of the foundress of this wealthy charity, from
"the lamest and poorest persons" in their respective parishes.

The population of Temple Balsall in 1893 was To64, it was included in
Hampton-in-Arden, A.D. 1563.

Northward of Knowle, on the Birmingham road, are two places of consider
able interest to the antiquary. About a mile distant, the traveller will see, on
the left-hand side, and two fields from the highway, Langdon Hall; and some
distance down a lane on the right, he will find the site of the Nunnery of
Henwood.

LANGDON HAU,

Belongs to the manor of Langdon. At the Conquest it was held by one Almar^
of Turchil de Warwick, and was then certified to contain two hides and a half,
worth 20.?., and woods one mile long and half a mile broad. In Henry I's
time it was held of Siward de Arden, son of the above Turchil, by one
Chitclbern, sometimes called Ketelbernus de Langdona, founder of Henwood
Nunnery, a tenant and servant in the office of sewer to this Siward. His son
dying without issue, it vested in his daughter's posterity, who had, however,
by this time, assumed the name of De la Launde. James de la Launde, 37th
Henry III, had grant of free warren here, but disposed of this estate, with the
advowson of Henwood, to Gilbert de Kirkeby: This Gilbert sold his interest
here to William de Arden, and his heirs, for 112 marks of silver, particularizing
the capital messuage, or manor place, pertaining to the property, with all the
hands thereto belonging, reserving to the before-mentioned James de la Launde,
and his heirs, all such services as belonged to the same. After this, it appears
to have followed the same line as Knowle, the monks of Westminster, 22nd
Edward I, paying to John de le Launde, son of James, five marks of silver
yearly. In the distribution of monastic property at the Dissolution, this manor
was added to the revenues of the see of London. Soon after it passed into
the possession of John Greswolde, Esq., and from him by one of his co
heiresses, to Thomas Dabridgecourt. This family was descended from Sir
Eustace Damprecourt, who came into England with Philippa, wife to King
Edward III, and whose son, by a daughter of John, Lord Wake, and widow
of Edmund of Woodstock, Earl of Kent, was one of the founders of the order
of the Garter. (*) This Thomas Dabridgecourt was a justice of peace, and high

(*) Harl. MSS., noo, f. 22.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

sheriff of the county, 29th Elizabeth. Dying(i3) fourteen years after without
male issue, the manor came next to John Fulwode, of Ford Hall, who had
married Katharine, his eldest daughter: Through her daughter, married to
William Noel, of Wellesborough, Esq., it passed into their family, and came
by marriage to Lord Byron, descending to his daughter, the late countess of
Lovelace, and is now the property of the Earl of Lovelace.

There are no remains of the old manor house, but a gabled farm house,
with high brick chimneys, built near to the site, now bears the title of
Langdon Hall. Towards the west of it is a complete moat filled with water;
but not a vestige of the ancient edifice appears within the space which it
incloses. In size and width, the moat is very similar to Codbarrow, already
described. It now serves as a boundary to a garden, access to which is by
a bridge.

KENWOOD NUNNERY

Was a Benedictine establishment of considerable importance. The nuns of
this order, according to a legend of early date, were first settled at Polesworth,
in this country, by King Egbert, in consideration of the cure of his only son,
by Modwen, daughter of the then King of Connaught, whom he invited over
to England, promising to found a monastery for her. On her arrival, with
two other nuns, the king is said to have placed his daughter, Edith, with
her for instruction in the rules of St. Benedict, giving her a dwelling place
in the Forest of Arderne, and soon after, according to his promise, founding a
monastery for them at Polesworth, constituting his daughter abbess. However
questionable this statement may be, this is certain, that the Benedictine nuns
had numerous establishments in this neighbourhood soon after the Conquest.
This, at Kenwood, was founded in the reign of Henry II, by Ketelberne, lord
of the manor of Langdon, and was called Eshvcll on its first foundation. It
was built near a spring, eastward of Langdon, and was dedicated to St.
Margaret,(i4) the boundaries of the gift being particularized in the charter
disposing of it. The founder also granted to the nuns a free court, with all

(13.) He was buried in Knowle church; and when Dug- of the chancel, a male figure in armour, kneeling, and
dale visited it, there was in a window on the south side under it the following inscription :

!3Dratr p. bono jstatu Cljomc DafariUgeourt

filif 3!oljij3 DabriDgfcourt rt <Cfi?al>rrt;t
iifcn; run qur fuit £oror HDilli IDisston

militijB, qui lane frttfjetram firri frcit.

See alfo inscriptions to members of this family in Knowle and Solihull churches.

(14.) St. Margaret, a native of Antioch, for refusing to and renounce her religion, was cruelly tortured and be-
marry Olybrius, president of the east, under the Romans, headed, A.D. 278.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 181

customs and liberties, as free as he had from Hugh de Arden, his superior
lord. Also pasturage for all their cattle, horses, sheep, goats, and hogs, in
every place where his own fed, without pannage or any custom to be paid for
them : They were likewise permitted the privilege of cutting timber in Langdon
wood for building their church, house, and other offices, and of erecting a mill,
where they could find a suitable place on their own land, his lying opposite
thereto.

The name of Estwell soon ceased, and it took the name of Heart-wood, from
the tall oaks then and there standing, and the establishment advanced rapidly
in material prosperity. Pope Gregory IX, A.D. 1228, confirmed all the tithes
they had obtained in the parish of Solihull, and all their other possessions.
These consisted of lands, woods, annuities, and advowsons given, at sundry
times, by William de Arden, Ralph and James de la L,aunde, Roger de Camvill,
the Abbot of Westminster, the Bishop of Coventry, and Kings Richard II and
Henry IV, the whole of which, at the dissolution of the monasteries, was
valued at 2i/. 2s., with 2/. 6s. *jd. payments. Their property, at that period,
consisted of holdings in L,angdon, Hill Bickenhill, Church Bickenhill, Rodburn,
Curdworth, Shustoke, Ansty, Stretton on Dunsmore, Whitnash, Barford, and
Solihull, in the county of Warwick, with Appleby, in the county of Derby, and
other smaller possessions.

According to Tanner, 5th Henry IV, there were twelve nuns in the convent,
and in great poverty ; and when, 27th Henry VIII, it was dissolved, as one of
the lesser monasteries, its prioress Johanna Hykford, or Hugford, was allowed
a life annuity of 3/. 6s. 8d. At this time there were only the prioress and
four or five ntms.(i5) The prioresses were

Kath. Boydin, resigned 1310.

Margareta le Corzon.

Milisanda de Fokerham, March 30, 1339. ^

Johanna Fokerham, August 22, 1349.

Johanna de Pichford.

Alianora de Stoke, April 20, 1392.

Jocosa Midlemore, 1400.

Joecia Midlemore, January 8, 1438.

Alicia Waringe, 1460.

EHz. Pultney, 1498.

Alicia Hugford, 26th Henry VIII.

Johanna Hugford, 28th Henry VIII.

The site of the convent, together with divers lands belonging to it in

(15.) Great doubt exists in the minds of several writers, benefited by grants of the possessions of abbeys, nunneries,

whether many of the charges brought against the monastic &c., hastened their downfall; for, as a recent writer has

establishments were not invented for the purpose of observed, "a cruel king, and a greedy nobility, could not

bringing those institutions into disrepute, and to prepare afford to wait for their prey, but turned out, helpless and

the common people, who profited much by their charitable homeless, on the mercies of the world, of which they had

offices, for their suppression. The desires of the monarch, become ignorant, the aged inmates of the nunnery and

and the cupidity of the nobility and gentry, who so largely of the monastery."

j82 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Knowle and Solihull, was disposed of, 3ist Henry VIII, for aoy/. 55., to John
Hugford and his heirs, to be held in capite of the crown, equal to a yearly
payment of i/. y. \d.y by the twentieth part of a knight's fee. This person
pulled down the church, and appropriated the monastic buildings to the pur
poses of a dwelling house, in which he resided. John Hugford was descended
from an ancient family settled at Emscote, near Warwick, and married Catharine
daughter of John Heneage, Esq., of Hainton, county of Lincoln, by whom he
had a son, John, who also resided here, as did John Hugford, son of the
latter, by Margaret, daughter of Sir John Hugford, of Bindleston, in the county
of Gloucester. This John Hugford, by his first wife Lettice, daughter of
Edward Holte, of Duddeston,(*) left another John, aged twenty-one, in 1619.
The estate was sold by this family to William Spooner, Esq. It is now the
property of Joseph Gillott, Esq.

In 2nd and 3rd Philip and Mary, it was found that Thomas Somerland
had an annuity of i/. 135. 4^., and Johanna Hugford a pension of 3/. i6.y. Sal.

All that remains to identify the site of the Nunnery of Henwood is a
number of grass-ground mounds, on the elevated portion of a field contiguous
to the farm house called Henwood Hall; a large walnut tree marks the spot.
The foundations have been dug out, and these elevations are, doubtless, formed
of the rubbish left. Indications of a moat, on the east and north, remain, part
of it, on the latter, being banked up to form a pond. The present Henwood
Hall is small and of modern construction; and, with the exception of a carved
head, inserted in the front wall bears no trace of the monastery adopted as his
mansion, by John Hugford, in 1540-41. About A.D. 1600, when Belchier visited
Warwickshire, there were several coats of arms emblazoned in Mr. Huggeford's
house at Hen wood, (t) In the walls, however, of the garden fronting the house
are many vestiges of the former ecclesiastical buildings. These walls, indeed,
appear to be composed wholly of stones taken from the priory, many of them
being sculptured, such as the capitals of pillars, portions of arches, niches, &c.
On one side of the gate leading into the garden is a pointed arched niche, with
crockets and finial; and on the other side, a full length carved draped figure
without the head, two pieces of sculpture which the mason appears to have placed
thus prominently in view, as being the most perfect relics of the old conventual
abode. The farm buildings afford many traces of the plain slabs and stonework
being incorporated in their walls. On the little river Blythe is still a mill, no
doubt representing that erected by the nuns, in pursuance of the license they
received from their patron Ketelberne, whose name is still preserved in that of
a tract called Kcttlcburn Heath.

•) HtraUft Visitation, Harl. MSS., noo, f. 99. (+) Belchicr>s Notes : Bridges' Papers in Bodliean Library,

Oxford.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

183

Returning to the Birmingham turnpike road, the traveller can either retrace
his steps to Knowle, or proceed onward to Solihull, where we shall await him
on the morrow.

HE town of Solihull, with its several hamlets, rich in his
torical associations and architectural interest, will alone
occupy our attention this day. The approach to this place,
from Knowle, is of a highly sylvan character. Overhanging
trees, with a beautiful and fertile country stretching beyond,
will here richly recompense those who delight in

"The rural walk through lanes

Of grassy swarth, close cropped by nibbling sheep,
And skirted thick with intertexture firm
Of thorny boughs."

These, indeed, are the prevailing characteristics of

SOLIHULL,

From whatever point the tourist may reach it. It is about six miles and a
half south-east from Birmingham. Formerly it possessed a considerable market,
which has for some years been declining; and the place now ranks as a large
and pleasant village, rather on the increase since the opening of the Oxford
and Birmingham Railway, affording an agreeable place of residence for the
families of Birmingham merchants and others. Three fairs are still held at it.
The distinctive name of this town does not appear in any document prior
to the reign of King John, at which period, in a record of the profit of the
leets kept for several hundreds, one mark is set down to the account of Solihull.
Dugdale considers it to have been reckoned in Domesday Book as Ulverlie,
belonging, in Edward the Confessor's days, to Edwine, Earl of Mercia, and,
afterwards, to one Cristina, who held it by gift from the king. It comprised
eight hides, twenty carucates of arable land, twelve of meadow, and a wood
four miles in length and half a mile in breadth, with a church, twenty-two
villeins, and four bordars. It was worth 4/., and had been worth io/. From
this Cristina the manor came to the family of Limesie, which is supposed to
have had its seat at Ulverlte, subsequently written Wulverle; and after the

2 B

!86 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

rise of Solihull, altered to Olfon, or old Town, distant a mile from Solihull.
In the tenure of this family of Limesie it remained for four generations, and
then came to Hugh de Odingsells, who had married one of the coheiresses.
From him it fell to his youngest son, in whose time Solihull, out of the
decadence of Wulverlie, became a town of some magnitude, as appears by his
obtaining for it a charter, 26th Henry III, to establish a weekly market on the
Wednesday, together with a yearly fair, for three days, commencing on the
eve of St. Alphege. In 34th of the same reign, a charter of free warren in
all his demesne lands here, was also granted him: In i3th Edward I he
claimed a court leet, gallows, tumbrel, and assize of bread and beer, in this
lordship, by charter of Henry III. He founded a chantry in the chapel of
St. Alphege, and, dying 23rd of the same reign, left a son and heir, who
surviving his father but a few months, the manor came, the same year, by
marriage of the coheiresses, to Sir Peter de Birmingham, Knight, and Richard
de Perham, from whose descendants it was transferred to John Hotham, Bishop
of Ely, and his heirs. This bishop obtained a charter, 23rd of February, i3th
Edward II, for the continuance of the market, and the holding of the fair at
Lammas, instead of at the feast of St. Alphege: and again, in ist Edward III,
one of free warren.

Early in the latter reign a serious dispute arose between the inhabitants of
Solihull, King's Norton, and Yardley, with the Earl of March, relative to
pasturage in King's Norton; for, 6th Edward III, an inquisition was held, and
a fine which had been adjudged as damages to the earl, remitted, by the
following writ from the king: "Since we have learnt by an inquisition, &c.,
that the inhabitants of Kyngesnorton, Yerdeley, and Solihull, from time imme
morial, have possessed the right of common pasturage for all their cattle and
sheep, at a certain time of the year, in the pasture lands of Kyngesnortonwode.
which is on the borders of Worcestershire and Warwickshire, and that these
men, and others also having the right of pasturage in the said pasture lands,
as it was quite lawful for them to do, destroyed a certain ditch in the said
pasture lands which have been lately made, to the injury and disinheriting of
themselves, by Roger de Mortimer, late Earl of March, and for this that, on
the day of holding a certain inquisition, lately made, by our writ of nisi prius,
in a certain plea made before us at the suit of the aforenamed Earl against
the aforesaid men, [inhabitants] respecting the destniction of the said ditch,
they did not dare to appear, and 3<Do/. have stood adjudged to the said earl for
his damages on this account; with respect to which we have pardoned the said
inhabitants respecting the said sum."(*)

(•) Rot. Orif., r. 20.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 187

In 45tli Edward III, Robert Burgoloun recovered in the King's Court at
Warwick, from Thomas Bulkemore, and Alice his wife, possession of a messuage
and four acres of land, with \s. 5^. of rent, and the appurtenances. (*)

From Bishop Hotham the manor was transmitted through different members
of his family, by descent and marriage, until the 5th Henry V, when it was
resumed by the king: It continued in the crown till i6th Henry VI, when
the custody of the manor was given, by that monarch, to Thomas Greswolde
for seven years. This term had not expired before it was granted, 22nd same
reign, to John, Duke of Somerset, and his heirs male; but he dying without
issue, the king granted it next to Edmund Mountford, Esq., for life, on
payment of fifty marks sterling per annum. He, however, held it but one year.
After him, it was successively held by different tenants of the crown, up to the
5th Henry VIII. At this date, Thomas Howard, Earl of Surrey, had letters
patent, from the king, of this lordship, with the avowson of the church, in
consideration of his eminent services against the Scots, at Flodden Field. He
was followed in possession by his son, Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, who passed
the inheritance of Edmund Knightly, Esq., and Eustace Kitteley, gent., in
trust for the use of Sir George Throckmorton, Knight, and his heirs. Sir
George Throckmorton's grandson, 2nd James I, sold it for io8o/. to Edward
Hawes, of Solihull, gent., and Humphry Coles, of the Middle Temple, from
whom, by purchase from divers persons, it came to Sir Simon Archer, of
Umberslade: In his family it remained till the estates were divided among
the coheiresses, when this portion of them fell to the share of the Earl of
Plymouth, and from him to Earl Amherst, who sold the manorial rights to
Lieut.-Col. Short, obiit 1859, who bequeathed them to his nephew, the Rev.
John Couchman.

THE CHURCH,

Dedicated to St. Alphege,(i) is the finest ecclesiastical structure in this part of
Warwickshire, and was probably built at the close of the i3th century. It
contains many features of architectural interest; such as the cusped terminals
of the tracery of the windows with trefoiled arches. It consists of an inter
section tower and spire, lofty nave, north and south aisles, north and south
transepts, large chancel, and sacristy with a chapel over it. The tower is
embattled, having pinnacles at each corner. The spire, which is octagonal, was
rebuilt after the old model, the former one having been blown down by a

(i.)St. Alphege, of a noble Saxon family, was brought Chester, and Archbishop of Canterbury. He was stoned to
up in the monastery of Deerhurst, in Gloucestershire. death at Greenwich by the Danes in 1012, and not long
He became successively Abbot of Bath, Bishop of Win- after canonized. (*) Rot. Orig., r. 39.

i88

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

hurricane, on the isth of March, in the year 1757. The south aisle has a
modern plain parapet, the northern one being embattled. The nave, transepts,
chancel, and chapel, are without parapets, and have all high ridged roofs.
There is a porch on the north side, entered by wrought-iron gates, of good
workmanship, bearing the date of 1746; whilst on each side is a small window
filled with stained glass, representing St. Simeon and the Royal Psalmist,
with appropriate texts. The arch of the doorway is pointed. Entering the
church by this porch, the spaciousness of the building, as compared with other
churches, immediately impresses the visitor. The lofty pillars of the nave, the
graceful arches over them, and supporting the tower, the noble transepts and

chancel, with the numerous richly mullioned windows, present a coup d? ceil that
must be seen to be duly appreciated. The nave is separated from each aisle
by four octagonal pillars, supporting pointed arches: it is lighted at the west
end by a large perpendicular arched window of five lights, with elaborate
tracery, under which is a pointed arched doorway slightly depressed. The roof
of the nave is framed with curved braces, similar to the chancel, those of the
aisles being straight rafters with plaster between.

The windows of the aisles are pointed, with the exception of the one
nearest the east end of the south aisle, which is large and square headed, of
five lights, divided by mullions and transoms, the centre upper portion being
filled with stained glass, representing the Saviour as the Good Shepherd, and

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

189

an inscription, "Dedicated to God and the church in memory of Mary Ann
Lynn." At the east end of the south aisle (St. Anthony's chapel,) is a stone
reredos, having carved panellings. In the south wall is a piscina, the carving
much mutilated; and behind it are two carved brackets, the uses of which have
been before described. In the northern aisle St. Thomas a Becket Chapel,
there are traces of a carved wood reredos, and a piscina. The tower forms
the division of the nave, transepts, and chancel, by four pointed arches resting
on semi-octagonal jambs, or piers.

In the south transept, formerly the chapel of St. Mary, the ancient altar
slab and the remains of the piscina still exist. It is entered by a carved screen.

The north transept, once the chapel of St. Catharine, (2) is separated from
the church by another screen. The four lights of the north window are filled
with modern, and the tracery with stained, glass. The glass in the four lights
was the gift of the late Colonel Short, in memory of his parents and other
members of his family. The transepts do not open into the aisles, which is a
peculiarity in the plan of this church.

The chancel is the most interesting part of the building, and was probably

(2.) St. Katharine, born at Alexandria, was, in the reign wheels, and afterwards beheaded. From this the sign, &c.,
of the Emperor Maxentius, tortured with four sharp -cutting of the Catharine wheel was derived.

I90 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

erected at the close of the i3th century. It is distinguished by a large
pointed east window, filled with richly stained glass, the five lights containing
representations of Our Lord and the four Evangelists, with their emblems at
the foot. The tracery, filled with the debris of an older window, produces, with
the above, a beautiful effect in the interior. It was executed by Mr. Wailes, of
Newcastle-upon-Tyne, and the cost defrayed by a legacy of the late Mr. Chattock,
and the liberal help of the late rector, the Rev. Archer Clive. Four smaller
pointed windows occupy the south side; and on the northern are two windows
similar in design, and two others now blocked up by masonry. The windows
of this chancel are adjudged to be very early specimens of the Decorated style.
The arches of the side windows are connected by the hood mould, with trefoiled
arches rising in the plain portion of the intervening walls: They have under
each of them an elegant bracket, beautifully carved with foliage. On the south
is a sedile of three stone benches, independent of the walls from which it pro
jects. The piscina on the east of these is larger than usual, and enriched with
a beautifully carved bowl, the triangular crocketed canopy being supported by
shafts. In the north wall is a large opening, now concealed by oak panelling,
which served, in ancient times, as the Holy Sepulchre, (3) a description of which
has been given before. The roof of the chancel is esteemed a fine specimen
of wood work, differing from most structures of the kind, by the employment
of curved braces affixed to the under side of the tnisses. The lower part of
the walls is covered with oak, and the chancel fitted with open stalls. The
communion table is similar in character to that of others that have been des
cribed, and the altar rails are of fairly carved wood work, the sacrarium being
paved with Minton's tiles.

A door on the north side of the chancel leads to an ancient chapel or
chantry, which is variously conjectured to have been originally intended for a
charnel house, sacristy, &c. It is, however, more than probable that it once
formed a chapel, dedicated to some patron saint, if we may judge from the
numerous altars, founded by the neighbouring gentry, in this church : for besides
the chapel of St. Alphege, the high altar, and the altars in the transepts, the
church had, before the Reformation, others in honour of St. Anthony, (4) St.
Nicholas, St. Thomas a Becket,(5) and others, as may be learnt from the entries

(3.) In the churchwardens' accounts are several items of in the English, but is one of the most notable saints in

receipts and of charges for celebrating these customs at the Romish calendar. The temptations of St. Anthony

Easter. In 1534— paid the sexton for watching the sepulchre have, through St. Athanasius's Memoir, become one of

light, 2d. For twelve pounds of wax for the sepulchre the most familiar of European ideas,
light, 71. Two pounds of the sepulchre wax went to the

rood light. Received for Easter box and sepulchre light, (5.) Thomas a Becket was born in London in 1117; and

became Archbishop of Canterbury, in which cathedral he

(4.) St. Anthony was born in Egypt about the year 251. was assassinated at vespers. His relics, in a costly shrine,

was amongst the earliest anchorets, and commonly at the east end of the cathedral, attracted devotees from

called the Patriarch of Monks. He withdrew from human all parts of Europe. King Henry II, who had been privy

y and took up his abode in a cave, and was the to his murder, afterwards did penance at his shrine, and

founder of the solitary mode of living. He is not named suffered himself to be scourged by the monks.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 191

of items of expense incurred by the parish on account of the celebration of the
early ceremonies of the church. (6) This chapel has a groined roof, and was
formerly lighted by two small lancet windows on the north, and one on the
western and eastern sides, the latter one being still open. Under the window a
stone altar is found.

Over this lower chapel is another, which is reached by a staircase from the
chancel, and entered by a pointed arched doorway. This is considered to have
been the

CHANTRY OF ST. ALPHEGE,

Founded by Sir William de Odingsells, Knight, in the time of Edward I, for
one priest to celebrate divine service for ever, for the health of the souls of his
father and mother, as also for his own soul, with the souls of his progenitors,
children, and all the faithful deceased. For the support of this priest, he gave
certain houses and lands, near St. AlphegJs well, in this lordship, and 3/. yearly
rent, payable by several of his tenants here. The maintenance of this priest
was successively augmented, first, by Ralph de Limesi and his wife, to the
extent of five marks yearly ; next, by William Hawes and others, by a messuage
and forty acres of land in Solihull, called Coldeford's tenement, for the chantry
priest to celebrate divine service for the souls of Hugh le Despenser and Sibill
his wife. This grant, being without a license from the king, the gift became
forfeited, and was given, i4th Henry IV, by the king, to John Birkyn, one of
the yeomen of the larder, for his life. Before i6th Henry VI other diminutions
in the priest's income had taken place; for, in that year, on an addition of 3/.
more annually made by one Thomas Greswolde, it appeared that the stipend
was so poor that no priest was then serving. This augmentation was for the
priest to sing mass every day for the good estate of the king (Henry VI) and
of the said Thomas Greswolde, and for their souls after death, as also for the
souls of the ancestors of the said Thomas, and all other benefactors. In 26th
Henry VIII the revenues were valued at 5/. 13^. per annum, with 185-. yearly
paid to several persons; and, 37th of the same reign, were found to be 61. i6s. 6d.
over and above all payments. At this time the chantry priest occasionally
assisted the parson in administering the sacraments, the parish being extensive,
having no less than seven hundred communicants. This chantry, or upper
chapel, now the sacristy, is said to have been built at the time of its foundation,

(6.) Among others we find, A.D. 1532 et seq. : For mending 3$. To find light yearly to feed St. Katharine and the table

the censer, jd. For cords for the saunce bell and for the of St. Anthony, 35. 6d. For the lamp of the cross, 8$. For

lamp, is.zd. For mending the cross and censer, is. For repairs of the cross, i2d. For repairs of the canopy of the

nine pound of wax for the rood light, 55. zd. For the sacramentum, 6d. For the hour glass and its standard,

light making, 6s. qd. Received for the rood light, 215. 6d. 2S. 8d. For frankincense, 135. nd. Paid George Lynall for

Of Our Lady's coffer, 135. In pay of St. Nicholas' clerks, repairs to Becket's chapel.

192 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

and the chancel is supposed to have been erected about the same period. It
was called the chantry of Haliwell, or Holy Well, from, as is conjectured, the
property given to it, by the founder, being near to St. Alphege's well, remains
of which are still existent near to the rectory.(7) The chapel, which, i6th Henry
VI, was called libera capclla sancti Alphcgi, is approached, from the chancel of
the church, by a short staircase under a large pointed arched doorway, and is
lighted by four pointed arched windows, of varied design, one of them, the
eastern, having some remains of ancient stained glass. This consists of a centre
of good colour, with a scroll ornament, in each light. In this chapel still
remains the piscina; but the altar, with other accessories, have disappeared. A
remarkably fine oak chest, in which are kept the parish records, stands in this

chapel.

A further benefaction for the use of this church was made, i3th Edward
III, by William de Stow, a priest and parson of Solihull, in the gift of twelve
acres of land and six of meadow, in trust to succeeding rectors, for two wax
candles to be kept burning in the church every day at mass, and two torches
always at the elevation of the Host. For this, Thomas de Blaston, Rector of
the church of Sulyhull, paid a fine of los. to the king.(*)

With equal judgment and good taste the church has been restored, under
the present rector, the Rev. Canon Evans, M.A. The nave and north transept
are now fitted with open seats, the bench ends being partly formed out of the
old pew doors. The large gallery has been taken down, the removal bringing
into view the three handsome windows filled with stained glass. The old
rood-loft screen, an interesting example of fourteen-century carving now forms
a conspicuous ornament of the chancel.

The MONUMENTS, ancient and modern, in the various portions of the
church, are so numerous, that they can only be briefly particularized. Those
of ancient date still extant are the following:

On three oak panels, hanging on the south aisle, are several family arms
and crests. One panel bears this inscription:

DabciDgceourtr, rjeq., DtpartcD tljis Ippt pr jrii of ^Bap, 1601.
Another is thus inscribed:

fllicc Dabrigrcoutt, dntjst jBijstcr. anD eoljrirc to Kicljarfl dSrr.stoolDf, rsamrr,
DrpartrD rijis Ipfc rtjf lastc Dapt of JFdmiarir, 3no Dni, 159U.

(7.1 Many wells were committed to the patronage of the after the superstition which gave it had passed away. In

saints, and treated with reverence, some on account of early ages this veneration for holy wells was carried to

their purity, and others for the medicinal virtues of their an idolatrous excess, insomuch, that in the reigns of

waters. St. Alkmund's well at Derby is an instance of the Edgar and Canute, it was found necessary to issue edicts

former class, where the name has been continued long prohibiting well worship. -Hone's Every Day Book, ii, 637.

(•) Rot. Orig., r. 64.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 193

This tablet was larger when Dugdale visited the church, and then had
their portraits, and those of five children, with a verse of eight lines under
each principal figure, in addition to what we have quoted.

On a brass plate on a slab, under the tower arch, are the figures of a man
and his two wives, with those of fourteen children, in three groups^ under them,
and this inscription:

?our eijaritte, pra^c for tije jsoflps of HDtlliam %U, p'ttlman, aim for
anfl agnts Ip fo?ffg,s foicl) JDilltam D'crastfl tf)t if nape of Drccmbrr,
in fi)t gear of €lur lorDe $00, mcccectftf, on foljosc soil 3ilju Ijato mmii, atmn,

On a tablet of wood, at the east end of the north aisle, is painted the
family arms, a Latin acrostic of GVLIELMVS HAVVES, and a long English verse,
in memory of the same person. A brass plate affixed to the wall contains
his effigy, with those of Ursula, his wife, and their eight children, and the
following inscription:

WILLIAM HAWES, ^t. 80. 1610. URSULA COLES, ^t. 76.

Here William Hawes, and Ursula his wife,
Their bodyes lye, their soules with Christ in life,
Whose Holy Spirit did so direct their wayes,
That in his fear they lived to aged dayes.
In endlesse joy with Christ they now remaine,
By whose blood all salvation doe obtaine.

These are all that remain of those noted by Dugdale, as in the church in
his time. Of those that have disappeared there were, first, a memorial "To
Richard Greswolde, obiit September lyth, 1537, and his wife Alicia, quorum
animabus propitietur Deus, amen" with their arms and effigies. Second, to
Thomas Greswolde, obiit July 8th, 1577, and his three wives, with their figures,
Third, a monumental brass on a marble gravestone, to John Botiler, obiit 1512.
Fourth, an alabaster slab with portraiture of a man in a gowne, to the memory
of Henry Huggeford, died 1592; "to whom the Lord grant a joyfull resurrec
tion, Amen." And a fifth to William Plasted and his wife, 1591.

In the chapel, at the eastern end of the north aisle, are several hatchments
arms, and inscriptions commemorative of the owners of Malvern Hall, who have
been buried in this and other places. The north transept contains numerous
monuments of the Holbeche family, heretofore of Bentley Heath, in this parish.
The modern tombs, tablets, and memorials, are very numerous, and chronicle
the deaths of several of the rectory, of divers branches of the families of Chattock,
Welchman, Harborne, Palmer, Doley, and others, connected, by birth and alliance,
with the parish.

Before leaving the church, a few other particulars respecting the interior
deserve notice. The pulpit is of the usual carving of the sixteenth century,

2 c

I94 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

and the body of the church with a portion of the north transept is pewed, the
free seats being open sittings. A large gallery ranges over the entire width of
the nave, under the western window, the front of which is formed of the old
rood loft in the middle, the two sides being of cast iron of the same pattern.
A large chandelier hangs from the centre of the nave, bearing an inscription
to the effect that it was the donation of one of the Holbeche family. The font
is octagonal, supported by a central shaft, with eight small pillars, one at each
angle. In the tower is a fine peal of eight bells, cast in 1686, by Bagley.

The church, or living, was valued, igth Edward I, at thirty markes, over
and above two marks paid to the priory of Hertford. In 26th Henry VIII the
annual value was assessed at 23/. iSs. ^d., after deduction of these two marks,
is. icx/. yearly to the chantry at Solihull, and los. lod. for synodals, &c. The
tithes are now commuted for 1465^ The Rev. Canon Evans, M.A., is the
present rector.

When the survey was taken of the goods, plates, jewels, &c., in all the
churches, chapels, guilds, brotherhoods, and fraternities in the county of Warwick,
by Sir George Throckmorton, Knight, John Digby and Thomas Marrow,
Esquires, 6th Edward VI,(*) the return made from Solihull was

two chalices, iij belles, a clock, and ij sacring belles.

a pix, latyn.

two cruets, pewter.

two paxes of glas and wood.

two corporys cases.

two sensers, bras.

two candlesticks, bras.

a frount for thaltar of paynted clothe.

iij altarclothes.

xviij towells.

iij sut vestm'ts, oon veluet, oon silke, oon wulsted.

vj copes, two veluet, two silke, oon wulsted, 0011 dornix.

The church-yard, like the edifice it surrounds, is large, and contains many
monuments and memorials of humbler pretensions ; but as none are of any
particular interest, the traveller may on leaving it muse on the equality of all
who here find a resting place.

On the south side of the church-yard stands the rectory house, a com
modious brick building erected by the Rev. Archer Clive in 1834. In a field
below the garden some remains of the holy well may be traced, the spring still
bubbling up. This was anciently called St. Alphege's well, the patron saint of
the church, to whom allusion has been made at p. 191.

In Solihull the curfew still " tolls the knell of parting day," and may have

(•) Papers, " Warwick," in Record Office.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. I95

done so from the time of the Norman Conquest. (8) Two pounds a year was
formerly paid to the clerk, for ringing the curfew, from a general fund, formed
out of several old benefactions to the church and poor.

The means of gaining a glimpse of the "old world" every-day life of small
and isolated towns in this country are not too abundant: In the carefully
preserved accounts of the churchwardens of this parish, however, materials exist
for attaining a tolerably accurate idea of our ancestors' mode of life. It appears
from an entry in these accounts, of $d. paid in 1534, for "a broiderer, who came
to mend the vestments," and another of "12^. to a tynker for mending the
cross and censer," that no permanent settlement of such artificers had then
taken place in the smaller towns. A century later, 1657, during the Common
wealth, 4$. zd. is paid for eight charges at three times for s the Papist's

names at Coleshull, and 6d. to Mr. Palmer, by a Parliamentary order, to travel
into Ireland. In 1661, i/. 2s. is paid for the goale martialsie, and maimed
soldiers, and 15-. id. in paying the Polemoney, and in the year following i/. os,
$d. for maimed soldiers and the marrins. In 1658, \d. is paid to Henry Davies
to watch in the church-yard to prevent the burying of Wid. Willson (probably
dead of the plague). In the same year is. is giver to Mrs. Penruddock, whose
husband was taken by the Turks, to prevent collection; and in 1662, is. 6d.
to John Searle that had been taken a slave to the Turks, as the half moon
burned in three places on him made apparent. In 1664, Is- to widow Bird,
pitifully complaining, and in 1667, 2s. 8d. for a shirt for William Bate, and
making it, as also is. 6d. for calf skins to mend the said William Bate's
breeches.

Some discipline appears to have been exercised by the authorities of the
parish over scolding wives and refractory youngsters; for, in 1658, a charge of
IQS. Afd. is made as paid to Robert Hay wood, for making the clicking stoole,(9)
and for beer at the drawing it up to the crosse ; also ^d. for a lock to lock it
to the cross. In 1714 the sum of is. 2d. for going before Justice St. Nicholas
with the young people "which would not goe to service." In 1712, a charge

(8.) From an order of William the Conqueror, the custom bell, which was rung at four o'clock,
of ring-ing- the evening- and morning bells is derived. In

order to suppress those nocturnal compotations to which (9-) ThecucMnf stool was an engine for the punishment

the English were so much addicted, and which afforded of scolds and unquiet women, by ducking them in the

them an opportunity of conspiring the better against his water, after having placed them in a stool or chair fixed

government, he required that they should extinguish their at the end of a long pole, by which they were immerged

fires and lights at the hour of eight in the evening. A in some muddy or stinking pond. They were much in

bell, called the curfew, (quasi cotivre feu, or cover fire,) use formerly, and there are charges made, &c. They

was rung, to give notice of the same; nor was it lawful appear to have been in common use when Gay wrote his

to enkindle them again until the sounding of the morning Pastorals; they are thus described in the 1

"I'll speed me to the pond, where the high stool

On the long plank hangs o'er the muddy pool,
That stool, the dread of ev'ry scolding quean."

196 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

is also made for going before Mr. St. Nicholas to squash Sam Larence.

The loyalty of the place is show by the numerous charges, from is. to 10*.,
made for ringing on occasions of St. George's Day, the king's birthday thanks
givings, the peace, &c., in various years: On the restoration of Charles II,
45. is paid to the ringers upon a thanksgiving day, los. to William Baynton
for painting the king's arms in the church, and 2/. ioy. lent to Charles Causton,
constable, for "drumes and collors by consent." And to the horror of modern
sportsmen, be it known that 2s. were given to Squire Dilke's man for the
heads of two foxes, in 1662, a premium which extended to 1762, when 4*. were
given for four others. Hedgehogs and sparrows also had their price. In 1659
a pennyworth of paper is bought for the parishioners : but the most curious is
one which records that, in 1663, 2s. were " paid to William Stretch, to stop his
mouth," and a further sum of is. &/. to the same person " for the proclamation
for the observance of the sabbath."

The town of Solihull consists of one long street, with small arms branching
from it, and is cheerful and agreeable in its general aspect. Many of the houses
are modern, whilst a few of them are large and surrounded by grounds of a
pleasing character. A few old half-timbered houses, one dated *£, and an
ancient inn, complete the tout ensemble. Here is also a Roman Catholic chapel
erected in 1836, a smaller one having been taken down at that time, after
standing nearly sixty years. There is now a school attached to it. The Ins
dependents have, likewise, a neat place of worship, built a few years ago.

Education(io) has been amply cared for by liberal endowments. There is
an excellent Grammar School founded about the year 1556. Many famous
scholars have presided over this institution, among whom may be named
John Compton, elected in 1704, who held the position for thirty years. Dr.
Samuel Johnson called him uan eminent teacher." Shenstone, Jago, and other
celebrities were educated at this foundation.

Since 1863 the town has made great progress. The church -house has been
taken down, the site planted and added to the church-yard. Connected with
the church of St. Alphege a new building has been raised for parochial pur
poses. At a cost of £3,000, a spacious school-house for boys has been erected,
as also a number of elementary schools, partly supported by endowments. A
school-chapel, maintained by Mr. Joseph Gillott, has also been erected at
Catharine de Barnes' heath. Large and ornamental buildings too have been
built for the holding of petty sessions, 'public meetings, and other town purposes.

.) Two I. at in entries in the parish accounts show that has paid to Edward Pole, the schoolmaster, on account

provision for education was made here before the year of his salary as he shows by his four receipts. 1569.

». of which we pve a translation. 1562. Hamlet gl. IDS. paid to Kanulph Hayworth, lately schoolmaster in

Fetherstone requires an allowance of 61. 6i. 8rf. which he the same place, for his salary for one whole year.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.
At the end of the street, and east of the church, stands

197

MALVERN HALL,

Long the seat of the Greswoldes. The descent of this family is from John
Greswolde, of Kenilworth, married to a daughter of William Htigford, of
Huldenhall, in the parish of Solihull:(*) he was followed by Ralph, the father
of Richard Greswolde, who died before I3th Henry IV. The next in succession,
Thomas, is recorded, i2th Henry VI, as one of the persons of quality in this
county, sworn to observe the articles concluded in the parliament then held,
being a justice of the peace for the same from 2ist to 36th of that reign. In
i6th Henry VI he had the custody of the manor of Solihull and Sheldon,

seized by the king on the death of Edward, Duke of York; and thirteen years
after, the custody of the lands of Robert de Arden, attainted of high treason
for siding with the Yorkists, and executed the year following. From this
Thomas descended John Greswolde, of Langdon Hall, who was succeeded by
Richard Greswolde, obiit 1537, and Thomas, obiit 1577, as recorded on their
monuments in Solihull church in Dugdale's time.(n) The Greswolde estate,
after passing through a long succession of direct heirs, ultimately fell by

(11.) In the church register is the following entry, relative came into the churche of Solihull to divine service, and
to some member of this family: "The xxth daie of Sep- their openlie made his submission, accordinge to th
tember, beinge Soudaie, 1606, Richard Griswolde, yeoman, statute in that case provided."

(*) Herald's Visitation, Harl. MSS., noo, f. 91 b.

an \

fr V

I9g THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

marriage to Henry Greswolde Lewis, Esq., who, dying in 1829, was succeeded
by Major Meysey Wigley, who assumed the name of Greswolde. He died
unmarried in 1832, and was succeeded by his uncle, Henry Wigley, Esq., who
also assumed the name of Greswolde. Dying in 1848, the estate fell to his
three daughters, one portion coming to the youngest, Anne, married to F. E.
Williams, Esq. The two eldest died unmarried, one leaving her share to Mr.
Williams, and the other hers to his eldest son, Wigley Greswolde Greswolde
Williams, Esq., and they are now joint proprietors.

The hall is in the midst of a park, from which it is separated by a sunk
fence. It is a large and well-built mansion, but of no great antiquity, the
front entrance facing an avenue of trees running up to and beyond the Warwick
road. On the gateway pillars are quarterings of arms, and on two pillars
flanking the entrance hall door are full length sculptured figures. The gardens
and pleasure grounds are extensive, and in keeping with the requirements of
such a residence. Portions of the once extensive park, which bounds for a
considerable distance the left hand side of the road leading from Solihull to
Bentley Heath, have been converted into a farm. It was formerly stocked
with deer.

The Greswoldes, as we have stated, had the custody of the manor of
Solihull in the time of Henry VI; and it is more than probable that, from the
circumstance of their armorial bearings being carved on the stables, some branch
had once residence at Hillficld Hall, in the parish, a description of which,
though some distance south-west of Malvern Hall, may, from this connection,
be fittingly introduced here.

HILLFIELD HALL

is an interesting relic of a mansion of the sixteenth century, to which reference
has been already made in the introductory chapter. The engraving represents
the oldest part of the structure, viz., the northern front, which, before its restor
ation by the present owner, T. E. Williams, Esq., was defaced by several
unsightly lean-to's and obliterated windows. This part of the building is
wholly of brick, and of the castellated order, a style of edifice which did not
go out of fashion for many years after such defences were no longer required.
This part presents two crenelated towers, with a gabled centre, and two wings
right and left of the towers. The southern front is of later date, and is of the
Italian order, with brick pillars having stone capitals.(i2) Over a bay window

(12.) Fortified Manor Houses became, in more peaceful and more like modern mansions. Baddesley, a relic (of

times, houses for residence in which the moat was the these times), has had no great alterations internal or

ticipal feature which remained of the old troublous external for several generations.
times. The buildings became more decorative in style

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

199

in this part, were formerly the arms and crest of the Fieldings, who were
living here in the time of the Stuarts. To the Fieldings this southern front
may therefore, with reason, be attributed. When Belchier(*) visited the neigh
bourhood, he found here five coats of arms, (most probably in the windows,)
which he thus describes:

1. John Hawes of 1371.

2. Thomas Hawes, married Ann, d. of John Greswold, 1465.
3 Hawes, married 1529.

4 empaling Hawes— arms, a dagger between stars,

a crescent for difference.
5. William Hawes, Ursula d. of Win. Cole, of com. Warwick, 1562.

This last appears to have rebuilt, or enlarged the house, as may be inferred

from the following inscription^) over the doorway of the eastern tower:

HIC HOSPITES
IN CCELO GIVES

1576

The interior has undergone considerable alterations. The spacious old
hall has been converted into rooms more suitable to the requirements of
modern times. A long chamber still remains at the top of the house, under
which was formerly a corridor or passage running the whole length of the
building. In the western tower is an ancient oak spiral staircase, winding
round a straight oak extending from the basement to the summit.

(13.) This may be rendered "Here we are guests: in
heaven citizens" W. V. H.— William and Ursula Hawes.

(*) Notes, Bridges' Papers in Bodleian Library, Oxford.
They are partly undecipherable.

200

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Hillfield, according to family documents, was first purchased, 5th Edward
II, (1465,) by Thomas Hawes of Shirley, "skilled in the law." But the first
member of the family resident at the place, as appears by the pedigree, (*) was
William Hawes, of "Hilfield in Solihtill, living in 1563." His father was
Thomas Hawes of Edlicott, a descendant in the fourth generation, of the same
name and of the same place, one of whom, as above stated, married a daughter of
John Greswolde. William Hawes, who lies buried in Solihull church, was a
benefactor to the chantry of St. Alphege there. He was succeeded by his son
Edmond, living in 1619, whose posterity at that time included William his
son and heir, aged fourteen, three other sons, and eight daughters. This
Edmond Hawes purchased the manor of Solihull, 2nd James I, but afterwards
sold it to Samuel Marrow, Esq., of Berkswell. Since then Hillfield came to
the Greswoldes, and is at the present time the property of their descendant.
The family of Hawes is now represented by the Honourable Swynfen Parker
Jcrvis, of Little Aston, in the county of Stafford.

BERRY HALL,

Another ancient mansion, furnishing the subject of the initial letter to this
chapter, lies north-east of the church. It was once of considerable size, what
remains being turned into a farm house. It is said to have originally formed
the chapel; but this is merely conjectural, there being no internal evidence to
prove what part of the building it constituted. Berry Hall was long the seat
of the Waring family, the first mention of whom in connection with this residence
dates from 2ist Henry VII. They were descended from a family located at
Tanworth: One of this family, John Waring, 5ist Edward III, was in the
commission for assessing a subsidy of Pole money; in and Richard II, for
collecting another subsidy; and in the yth of the same reign, for the assessing
and gathering of the half of a tenth and fifteenth. He was succeeded by Thomas
Waring, styled armiger, I2th Henry VI, in the 36th of which reign Alice
Waring was prioress of the neighbouring nunnery of Kenwood. The Warings
contracted alliances with many of the principal families in the county, and
continued to reside here for several generations; but no records or monumental
inscriptions exist, by means of which to trace their fortunes up to the time
when this estate fell into other hands. It is now the property of S. Warner, Esq.

SILHILL HALL,

A corruption of Solihull, stands west of the town, and though still bearing the

(•) Herald's Visitation, Harl. MSB., uoo, f. 119.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 2oi

old name, is only a farm house. Traces of a moat once surrounding a much
older building are still visible. The present house has nothing remarkable about
it, and no data are found to connect it with any of the ancient families of this
parish. It is probable that it was built on the site of a house belonging to the
Middlemore family, since in the account of the repewing of the church in 1656,
still preserved in the parish chest, it is stated that Richard Middlemore, Esq.|
erected a pew near to Mr. Dabridgecourt's tomb in the south aisle, "to be ap
propriated to Solihull Hall for ever." The estate is now the property of H. H.
Chattock, Esq.

The account of this parish can scarcely be considered complete, without
some reference to two ancient members, For shew and Widney. They contain
but little to attract the traveller. The former of these,

FORSHAW,

Was given, in Edward I's time, by William de Odingsells to his younger son,
Nicholas. Here, temp. Henry VII, was a manor house, a park, and a warren,
reputed to be a chase. Of this manor house nothing has been visible for
many years, a coppice growing on its site in 1656, surrounded by a double moat
of large extent. A farm house, called Forshaw, now denotes the spot, and the
moat is still readily denned. The manor is owned by R. Morrall, Esq.

WIDNEY,

Was granted by Philip de Cumtune, temp. Henry III, to his kinsman, William
de Paries, whose son, another William, in the reign of Edward I, granted it
to Walter de Aylesbury, who obtained a charter of free warren here. His
posterity, seated at Edstone, held it till the iyth Henry VI. From them it
came to Thomas Somervile, Esq., of Somervile Aston, Gloucestershire. In
25th Elizabeth, Widney reverted to the crown, by the attainder of John Somervile,
a younger son of the family. Since this time, both Widney and Forshaw have
passed through various hands. The manor of Widney is now in the possession
of John Stubbs, Esq., who succeeded to it by the will of J. Smallwood, Esq.,
who purchased it from the Honourable Mrs. Musgrave, one of the coheiresses
of Lord Archer. Widney now consists of two or three farm houses. West of
Solihull is

SHIRLEY STREET,

Another member of this parish, situate on the road from Stratford-on-Avon to
Birmingham, from which it is distant six miles: It has, however, no historical

2 D

202 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

features beyond being a portion of the ancient road referred to at p. 10. It
consists of houses built on each side of the street, extending to a considerable
distance. Several neat residences have, of late years, been erected, which gives
to the place a more prosperous appearance than it formerly exhibited. It is
now constituted into a district under the Ecclesiastical Commissioners' Act. The
population in 1891 had increased to 1500. The principal object of interest is

THE CHURCH,

Which, dedicated to St. James, was erected in the year 1831, considerable
additions and alterations having been made in 1862. The structure consists of
a tower, nave, and chancel, the nave having a high ridged roof, from which
projects a row of dormer lights. The living is a perpetual curacy, value igiL
per annum, of which the Rev. C. Burd, M.A., is the incumbent.

There is a National School, accommodating about 150 scholars, and a small
chapel of the Baptist denomination.

Returning to Solihull we now come to the Old Town or Wulverlie of
Domesday, which lies northward, and deserves more particular mention. .Old
Town End, now

OLTON END,

Vulgarly Oken End, is about a mile distant from Solihull ; and, as before
stated, was the original colony of the parish, and then called Wulverlie. After
the rise of Solihull, the locality of which being more favourable, and its
progress rapid, this place, as esrly as the igth of Edward I, became known
as the Old Town, or Olton, in which Roger de Someri is certified to have had
lands. In the 23rd of the same reign, Ela de Odingsells and her husband are
stated to have been jointly enfeoffed of the manor of Oulton. From the Oding
sells it passed by one of the coheiresses to the family of Grey of Rotherfeld;
and, in like manner, from them it fell, 2nd of Henry IV, to the wife of Sir
John Deincourt, Knight. From this family it came by descent, fine, &c., to the
families of Lovel Boteler, and Arundel. In 33rd Henry VIII it had become
the property of Henry Ogard, Esq., and afterwards of Oliver Briggs, Esq., who
sold it to Mr. Middlemore, of Birmingham, and it afterwards came to the
Palmers, and from them to Miss C. Meysey Wigley, who married the Rev.
Archer Clive, Rector of Solihull. He sold it in 1847 to W. C. Alston, Esq.

In describing Olton, Dugdale states "I found a large moat, containing
within it at least an acre, whereon they say a castle long since was situate,
though now nothing be left thereof (a parcel of old oaks growing where the
buildings stood) ; which tradition hath the more colour of truth, forasmuch as

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 203

there is a lane near at hand bearing the name of Castle Lane. Which grounds,
being at least a mile diameter, have heretofore been a park, as the country
people say, and is probable enough from the large bank that lyeth on the
outside of them, environed with lanes. Not far from whence are the vestigia
of three very large pools, long ago converted to meadow ground."

Time has dwindled this ancient settlement to a mill and several groups of
houses. The remains of a triangular moat are still traceable, within which
stood the manorial residence of the early lords of the place, referred to in the
account of Solihull, and above. One side of the moat now forms part of Castle
Lane, rendering it highly probable that a castle was built here in the early
Norman period; and, from the moat being still called Hobb's, formerly Hog's,
or Odingsell's moat, it may be conjectured that, so long as the family of
Odingsells continued the proprietors, they resided here. The present mansion
is situated at some distance, and is called Olton Hall, and was purchased by
Mr. Alston with the rest of the property.

The population of the whole parish of Solihull in 1841 was 3404, and
6150 in the year 1891. In 1563 the number of families was 160.

Resting from our tour of this extensive parish we shall visit the other
places in the neighbourhood on the morrow.

[ONTINUING our journey we shall have for description the
villages of Elmdon and Bickenhill. These, with the once
more important town of Hampton-in-Arden, and other places
of minor note, will complete our tour through the district
of Arden. Leaving Solihull and passing to the right of
Olton we come to some beautiful rural lanes and roads, the
branches of the elm, oak, and ash forming in many places
a complete canopy and lengthened avenue, affording in the
hottest days of summer a grateful shade; whilst from many an eminence
extensive wooded prospects open upon the view. Crossing the canal,

ELMDON HALL,

the seat of W. Alston, Esq., is seen on the left. It is a handsome stone
mansion, occupying a site on a gentle ascent from the road, overlooking a
large extent of parklike ground, bounded with ornamental timber. It has a
northern and southern front: the general features of the latter will be best

206 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

understood by the engraving. It was erected by the late Isaac Spooner, Esq.,
in 1795. After the death of Mr. and Mrs. Isaac Spooner the house became the
residence of their eldest son, Abraham Spooner Lillingston, Esq., who was
killed in his own grounds by the fall of a tree, May 29, 1834, living only
long enough to show to his relatives, and labourers who had assembled
round him, that for a death thus sudden he was yet prepared. On the site of
the hall stood a former mansion built by John Boteler in the time of Henry
VIII. Dugdale states that the arms of Whitacre, Waldeiff, Hore, and Boteler,
successive proprietors, were cut on a beam of this hall, when he visited the
place.

ELMDON

has passed through various fortunes. Before the Conquest it was the property
of Tochi: after that event it was granted by William I to Turchil de Warwick.
In Domesday it is stated to have contained half a hide, the woods being one
furlong in length and breadth, and the whole of the value of 5*. In the reign
of Henry III it was held in fee by Simon de Whitacre, of Simon de Bercheston,
and by him of Thomas de Arden, heir to the before-named Turchil. In 4th
Edward I William de Arden died, possessing the manor in fee. It afterwards
came by heirs female from the Whitacres, successively to the families of
Waldeiff and Hore; and then, by a daughter of Alan Hore, to her husband
John, son and heir of Richard Boteler of Solihull, in the time of Henry VI.
John, his son, sold the manor to Thomas Marrow, gentleman, whose son, 34th
Henry VIII, parted with it to Henry Mayne, of Berrington, county of Hertford,
in whose family it remained several generations. It afterwards passed to the
Spooners, and was sold in 1840 by Isaac William Lillingston, Esq., to William
Charles Alston, Esq., on whose death in 1862 it passed with the principal part
of his landed property into the possession of his eldest son.

THE CHURCH,

dedicated to St. Nicholas, was entirely rebuilt in the year 1784, by Abraham
Spooner, Esq. The structure is situate near to the hall, and is partially con
cealed from view by the trees which surround, on every side, the peaceful church
yard. It is a neat stone building, consisting of a tower, nave, and chancel.
The tower is embattled, with small pinnacles at each corner, an obtuse arched
doorway on the west being the principal entrance. Over this is a two-light
window, and one of a similar design on each face of the belfry. The nave has
an embattled parapet, having on the south side three two-light windows, and

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 207

two on the north. The chancel, which is semi-octagonal, has on the east angle
a three-light, and on each of those adjoining a single-light window, all filled
with stained glass. The interior is fitted with pews, a gallery, and a pulpit and
reading desk of rather large dimensions for so small a building. These are all
of oak, and of excellent workmanship. The font is small, and stands in a pew
at the north-east angle of the nave.

The monuments are numerous, belonging principally to the family of the
Spooners, of whom four generations are interred in the vault beneath the church.
One tablet is to the memory of the late Archdeacon Spooner, who was for
fifty-five years rector of the parish, and died in 1857.

The arms in the windows of the old church, when Dugdale visited it, were
Clinton of Maxstoke, Clinton, Earl of Huntingdon, and Hore.

In 6th Edward VI the Church Goods were stated by the commissioners to
consist of

oon chalice and two belles,
an old cope.

a vestm't complete, silke.
two altarclothes.
a crosse, latyn.
two caiidlestickes, bras,
oon old s'ples.

Md. That the p'ishe owethe for oon of their stude belles,
liijs. iiijrf.

The living in 1291, igth Edward I, was valued at 2/. 13^. 4^.; in the 26th
Henry VIII at 3/. 8s.; and it is now returned at i8o/. The Rev. H. C.
Boutflower is the present rector.

The rectory house stands a short distance north-east of the church, and
was built in 1803.

The population in 1891 was 230.

Journeying onward, this road leads direct to the Birmingham and Coventry
turnpike. Turning to the right, and keeping the high road till the toll-gate is
reached, the traveller must there make another detour to the right, which, in a
few minutes, will conduct him to the village of

CHURCH BICKENHILL,

so called to distinguish it from Hill and Middle Bickenhill, two of its hamlets.
In the Conqueror's time the whole of the parish appears to have been computed
as two villages, one containing two hides, with woods of four furlongs long
and as many broad, formerly the freehold of Alwardus; and the other also two
hides, with woods twelve furlongs in length and six in breadth, the property of
one Alurtc. in Edward the Confessor's time. These were given at the Conquest

» ti

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

to Turchil de Warwick, who was the ancestor of all the family of Arden ; for
his grandson and heir, Henry de Arderne, made deed of certain lands in this
place for the dowry of Letitia his wife, and grants unto her servitium Eustachii
de ArcUrne de Bychcnhulla, which he held of him. It appears probable that the
descendants of this Eustace changed the name of Arderne to Bykenhull, their
place of residence; for, 33rd Henry II, Thomas de Bykenhull is found in con
nection with this place; and early in Henry Ill's reign, Alexander de Bykenhull
bound himself in the sum of fifteen marks of silver unto Sir Hugh de Arden,
of Hampton, Knight, not to sell or encumber any part of his lands, without
his consent. This Alexander was one of the justices of assize for this county,
in igtli Henry III. In 23rd Edward I, Alice de Langley signed herself Domina
dc Bygcnhull, though Thomas, son of the above Alexander, styled himself lord
at the same time. The next owner appears to have been Walter Paries, to whom
succeeded William Paries, who, ist Edward III, sold his title to Sir John
Peche, of Hampton-in-Arden, knight, whose grandson, Sir John Peche, 28th
Kclward III, obtained a charter of free warren. Little is known of the descent
of this manor after this period. It is now the property of the Earl of Aylesford.

THE CHURCH.

dedicated to St. Peter, is, from its lofty spire, a marked object to the eye from

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 209

whatever way it is approached. In Henry IPs reign, at the foundation of the
monastery of Kenwood, this church was given to the nuns of that establishment;
but it did not long remain in thsir pDsssssion, bsing shortly afterwards granted
to those of Mergate, Bedfordshire.

The church consists of a tower with spire, nave, north aisle, north chapel,
and chancel. The tower is rather lofty, with an embattled parapet and small
pinnacles at the angles, from the interior wall of which rises a plain spire of
graceful proportions. The summit of the tower is approached by a projecting
staircase, over the door of which is carved 1632 — 2 — E.B. R.A. The interior
arch of the nave and tower is walled up, and the only entrance to the tower
is by the staircase door. The west window in the tower exhibits some fine
tracery, and is of four lights, in two ranges or lifts. The nave and chancel are
of equal height, and, with the aisle and chapel, have all ridged roofs, without
cross or ornament of any kind. The chapel and chancel eastern windows are
pointed arched, and each of five lights with open tracery. The windows of the
nave and aisle are flat headed, with mullions and tracery. The chancel south
window is a pointed one of two lights. The entrance to the body of the church
is by a pointed arched doorway, covered by a modern wooden porch. The in
terior arch of this doorway is a fine specimen of early architecture. Previous
to the alterations, hereafter referred to, the original entrance arch was hid by
plaster, and not known to exist. On the removal of the mortar it was found
that a smaller doorway had been inserted, which remains the present entrance
to the body of the church. The semi-Norman arch discovered has been cleaned
and the dilapidated portions restored. The arch, which is sculptured in two
rows of alternate billet, springs from pillars with plain oblong capitals, bearing
one simple zigzag mould running across them.

In stepping into the interior, the traveller will do well to rest at the door,
and take a survey of the fine semi-Norman pillars and arches which divide
the nave and northern aisle. The pillars are three in number, two cylindrical
and one square. They are very low and massy, and have slightly sculptured
and escalloped capitals. From these spring four semi-circular arches, without
ornament or sculpture, the underside, or surbase, being cut flat, the angles
forming the outline of, and even with, the wall over.(i) The flat ceiling, which
conceals the roof of the nave, very much mars the effect of the alterations of the
interior. The pointed tower arch has been walled up, and an organ and singing
pew placed against it. The tower buttresses are in two tiers, having slightly
depressed trefoiled niches, to which formerly brackets for images of saints
appear to have been attached. At the west end of the aisle is a doorway

i ) An engraving of these arches, &c., will be found in the initial letter to this chapter.

2 E

2IO THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

blocked up, having a richly carved pointed arch, with sculptured finial and
headed corbels. There is no separation of the nave from the chancel by an
arch; but an obtuse arch divides the chancel from the north chapel. This arch
is of more elaborate character than those before-named, the outer plinth or
hood mould being terminated by a griffin and an angel's head as corbels. The
timber roof is open. The priest's door, like the others, is walled up, and the
chancel exhibits nothing remarkable except the encaustic tiles in the sacrarium.

The chantry, or chapel, separated from the chancel as already stated, and
communicating with the north aisle, is nearly the size of the chancel. The
extreme end of it is now parted off by a stone wall or screen, (perhaps, the
former reredos of this chapel,) which has evidently been removed to its present
situation from some other part of the building, and which now forms the west
side of a small sacristy or robing room for the incumbent. The doorway of
this screen, or wall, is pointed, having a carved finial heading, and sculptured
corbels of two king's heads. The centre is an oblong panel without ornament,
and on each side of it a richly sculptured niche on carved pedestals ; but the
effigies once filling them are gone. On the north side of this portion is a
depressed surbased arch, and on the south side two smaller ones.

On the floor of the north aisle, is a large incised slab with an inscription
in old text on the border; but quite defaced. A slab in the south wall, near
to the organ, commemorates George Smith Cooper and his wife, benefactors
of io/. to the poor in bread.

The modern monuments are few, and of no particular interest. One mural
tablet, in the north chapel, is to the memory of Fettiplace Nott, Esq., obiit
April 22, 1726; and three others, in the chancel, north of the communion table,
record the deaths of several children of Carew Thomas Elers, vicar of the
parish. The font appears, from the perfection of its sculpture, to be a modern
addition. It is, however, of ancient date: and has been painted white. It is
octagonal in shape, having quatrefoils on each face, with heads on the incline
to the shaft, which is also octagonal. The general appearance of the church
is highly creditable to the parishioners, for its neatness. It has lately been
reseated with open benches and restored. There are five bells in the tower.
In the windows were formerly the arms of Peche, Waver, and Erdington.

A curiously cut gravestone stands in the church-yard, "To the memory- of
Miss Anne Smith, who lived a maid, and died, aged 70. 8, [78] A.D. 1701."
Near to the tower lies a very long oak chest, in two partitions, all cut out of
the solid oak, and strongly bound with iron, but fast going to decay. It is a
pity this relic of ancient native workmanship has been removed from its former
position under shelter.

In 1291 (iQth Edward I) the vicarage was valued at nine marks, and in
26th Henry VIII was estimated to be of the value of 7/. 17*. 2d. It is now

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 211

returned at 324/., and the Rev. C. E. S. Ratcliffe is the present incumbent.
The Church Goods, temp. Edward VI, were

ooti chalice and iij belles in the steple.

a frount for thaltar, wulsted.

a cou' to the altar, silke.

iij altar clothes, lynen.

two to wells.

a pix, bras.

two candlesticks.

a cope, silke.

a vestm't of veluet.

a corporis and the case, veluet.

a crosse, bras.

The registers date from the year 1538.

THE CASTLE.

About a mile north-west of the church, in a field near to a farm house,
called " Castle Hills," is the site of the castle built by Nigel de Albani, or
Roger de Mowbray.(a) Though nothing of the building remains, the entrench
ments, part of which are traceable, furnish a tolerable notion of its extent
when in existence. No historical reference to this castle is to be found after
its erection, and the scanty notices of many other of these strongholds of the
Norman barons tend to show that the destruction of some, and the reduction
of others as castellated dwellings, was very general and complete in the time of
Henry II. This at Bickenhill it is, therefore, highly probable came under the
same category as Studley, (see p. 70,) and was at least dismantled under the
decree of that monarch. Thus reduced, it, perhaps, became the mansion of one
of the Ardens, as, in an inquisition taken 4th Edward I, one of the parks
belonging to William de Arden, stated to be a"bout a mile and a quarter distant
from Hampton Church, "towards Elmedon," was situated here, but no allusion
to any castle is made therein.

"Unsparing Time,
Stern miner of the tower sublime,"

has done his work so thoroughly, that the sheep and ox now graze quietly
over its obliterated foundations, which are here and there indicated by a slight
elevation of the surrounding surface, by mounds of earth, and by traces of a
moat.

The population of Church Bickenhill was 516 in 1891. There were forty-

(2.) Dugdale says it was "called Bevenchesley, in which parish of Bickenhull, though it be a member of Hampton
was a castle, still called 'Castle Hills,' and lyeth in the Lordship."

2I2 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

six families in 1563. The parish is large, the village proper consisting of the
vicarage, a school for poor children, and a few farm houses and cottages.

The hamlets referred to are Hill and Middle Bickenhill, Kingsford, Wavers
Marston, Marston Culey, and Lindon. These at the Conquest became the
property of Turchil de Warwick, and falling to the Ardens were afterwards
granted to other proprietors, under various tenures, &c. A considerable portion
of the first-named was bestowed upon the Kenwood nuns; but, on the dissolution
of religious houses, was granted to Edward Aglionby, of Balsall, and Henry
Hugford, of Solihull. In Kington, or Kingsford, which is a very ancient place,
though now consisting of but a few scattered houses, there appears to have
been a church in the reign of Henry III; for the advowson of it was granted
5th of that reign, to the nuns of Mergate, by one Henry de la Notte. In i6th
Edward II, it was called the chapel belonging to Bickenhill.

Proceeding through Church Bickenhill, the road to Hampton leads, like
so many others we have pursued, through woodland scenery of much beauty,
and bringing us in the course of two miles, to that place.

HAMPTON IN ARDEN.

This is a very extensive parish, comprehending many hamlets, some of
them, as we have noticed in Nuthurst, being wholly isolated, and distant some
miles from the mother church. The property of this parish before the Norman
Conquest was vested in one Lucvinus. At that period it was given by the
Conqueror, with many other lordships, to Geoffrey de Wirce, of Little Brittany
in France, who had assisted in the Conquest. At this time it is stated in
Domesday Book to have had ten hides of land, a church, a mill value 3^. 4*/.,
and woods three miles in length and breadth, all worth 5/. From this proprietor,
who does not appear to have left any issue, it is probable the lands returned
to the crown. By grant of king Henry I they were bestowed upon Nigel de
Albani. This Nigel, the progenitor of the de Mowbrays, had issue Roger,
surnamed de Mowbray, by whom the Ardens, as lords of the manor, were
afterwards enfeoffed thereof. Of these Radulphus de Hamptone, 5th of
Stephen, was the first writing himself de Eardcne. It continued with this
family in 351!! Henry III, when Hugh de Arden possessed it. They had, in
the meantime, acquired other property in the parish, since the manor house,
demesnes, and advowson, which had been given by Roger de Mowbray to
Ralph de Haia in exchange for other lands, were bought by Robert de Arden
for fifty marks of silver. This Hugh de Arden obtained a charter of the king
of free warren for all his lands here arid in Knowle, as also for a weekly

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 213

market at Hampton, and a fair for three days, to be held on the eve, day, and
day after the feast of St. Luke. To him succeeded William de Arden, who
is supposed to have been slain, 4th Edward I, by one Richard de I/Isle. By
the inquisition taken after his death it appeared that he had at Hampton a
manor house, two gardens, four hundred and sixty acres of land, a meadow
value ;/. 12^., two parks, one pool, two water mills, and fishing in the river
Blithe, with other rents, &c., in this and various places in the country, of the
value of y/. 12$. 5^., the whole, excepting the advowson of the vicarage, being
valued at 52/. 6s. 4^. Richard, his brother, the heir, was not only a minor
but, being an idiot the inheritance fell to his aunts, Hawise and Olivia, sisters
of the before-named Hugh. Part of the lands were afterwards purchased by
the crown ; but ultimately came again into the possession of a member of this
family, Sir John Peche, Knight, son and heir of Hawise. With them the
manor of Hampton continued till the roth Richard !!.(*) Then, through a
daughter of this house, it passed to the Montforts of Coleshill ; but was estreated
to the crown, nth Henry VII, on the attainder of Sir Simon Montfort, for
high treason in sending money to Perkin Warbeck.Q) In the following year it
was granted by letters patent to Richard Pudsey, esquire to the king ; but, as
he had no issue, it reverted to the crown. In the 4th of Henry VIII, that
monarch granted it to Sir Henry Guildford, Knight, who dying childless, it
reverted again to the crown. In the i5th Elizabeth, the queen granted it to
her favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester ; but he having no allowed
lawful issue, it once more reverted to the crown, and remained a royal appanage
for many years. During this period it was assigned as dowry to Henrietta
Maria, Queen of Charles I, but after his execution and her flight, it was/A.D.
1649, ordered by the Parliament to be sold. (4) It is uncertain that a sale, was
effected ; but, whether or not, the property after the Restoration was again a
royal demesne, and remained a crown possession till purchased by Isaac

(3.) The revolt raised by one Richard Simon, a priest at Birmingham, a survey was taken, which enumerated the

Oxford, by training up Lambert Simnel, a baker's son, to name of the tenants, and the houses, lands, woods, &c.,

counterfeit the person of the son of the Duke of Clarence, in their occupation. It is entitled "A Survey of the Manors

smothered in a butt of malmsey, was scarcely put down of Hamptou-att-Arden, with the Rights, Members, and

by Henry VII, when the old Duchess of Burgundy put Appurtenances thereof, lying and being in the County of

forward one Osbeck, or Warbeck, the son of a converted Warwick: Last Parcell of the Possessions of Henrietta

Jew, whose name, Peter, was corrupted into Peterkin, or Maria, Queen of Charles Stewart, dec'd, made and taken

Perkin, to personate the Duke of York, murdered in the by us, whose names are hereunto subscribed, in the month

Tower, reporting previously that he was still living. The of December, 1649, by vertue of a Commission grounded

plot succeeded for a time, spreading through England, upon an Act of the Commons of England assembled in

Scotland, and Ireland, many of its supporters being tried Parliament, for the Sale of the Honors, Manors, and Lands

and beheaded, whilst the wretched dupe of this conspiracy heretofore belonging to the late King, Queene, and Prince,

was at last hanged at Tyburn, with several of his adherents. under the Hands and Seals of five or more of the Truste

in the said Act, named and appoynted." It is a curious

(4.) For this purpose, as shown by a MS. of fifty-one document, extracts from which, however, would not be of

pages, formerly in the possession of Mr. Job, bookseller, much interest here.

(*) Inq, Post Mori,

214

THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

William Lillingston, Esq., who sold it to the late Sir Robert Peel, Baronet,
whose son, the Right Honourable Frederick Peel, is now lord of the manor.

THE CHURCH,

dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Bartholomew, stands on an eminence,
close to the road leading through the village. It consists of a tower, nave,
north and south aisles, and chancel, with a chantry chapel on the north side
of it. The tower, which is low, is embattled, whilst its roof is reached by an
outer circular staircase. This tower had, formerly, a tall spire, which was a
noted landmark in this woodland district. In the year 1643, during a violent
storm of thunder and lightning, it was thrown down, great damage being
thereby done to the tower, and to other parts of the building. The west, or
tower window, is of three lights, under a pointed arch, and the belfry has a
two-light pointed window on each face. The nave has a crenelated or embattled
parapet, under which, on each side, are four clerestory windows of two lights.
The chancel has a ridged roof, without parapet, but the northern chapel is
embattled. The stringcourse of the chancel is semi-hexagonal, and of early
date. We enter the church by an obtuse arched doorway, under a modern
porch. The aisles are each separated from the nave by three circular pillars,
higher than, but not so massive as, those of Bickenhill. From these rise four
pointed arches. The nave is, too, divided from the tower by a similar arch,
bricked up, and from the chancel by another. The south aisle windows, with
one exception, have been suffered to go to destruction, and are now filled with

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 2I5

plain headed lights, the original mullions and tracery being gone. A stone seat
runs along the side of this aisle, a peculiarity we have not noticed in any other
church we have visited. In the north aisle are two circular headed windows,
and one pointed, of two lights each, whilst the north doorway is also pointed!
Leaving the body of the church, which is pewed and galleried, we enter the
chancel, which is the most ancient part of the building, presenting many
features of the Anglo-Norman style. On the north side are two plain semi
circular windows, without ornament, (one filled with lattice glass,) and a lofty
circular headed doorway of like character, blocked up with masonry. The east
window is pointed, of four lights, and with fair tracery heading, filled with
stained glass of recent date, the subjects being the Dove, Cross, &c. The
windows on the south side are flat headed, the priest's door being pointed.
The windows formerly contained the arms of de la Bere, Peche, Albani, Brad-
stone, and Say. On the east side of the priest's door is a pointed arch, with
a trefoiled one under, containing the bust of an angel bearing a shield, on
which are the arms of Erdington, two lions passant. Dugdale speaks of these
and other arms as then being "on gravestones in the church," mentioning an
inscription on one in the chancel, commemorative of "Sire Johan Peche et Johan
sa feme gisant icy Dieu de lour almes eit mercy." This shield is, most likely,
the sole remnant of this monument. On the floor of the nave is a large slab,
on which two brass figures formerly existed ; but only one now remains. This
is, doubtless, the stone noticed by Dugdale as having the " portraitures in brass
of a man and his wife," and the following inscription :

Hie jacet Ricardus Brokes Balinus de
Hampton in Ardena et Isola uxor eius.

Man it behoves thee oft to have in minde
That them dealest w'h thy hand that shalt thou find
Children bin sloathfull and wives bin unkinde
Executors bin covetous and keepe all that they find.

This caution, and the portraiture of Richard Broke, are both gone. The
few monuments now scattered here and there are modern, and principally to
the memory of the Eboralls of Balsall, whilst the slabs, in the chancel, com
memorate several of the vicars.

The chantry chapel presents little deserving of notice. Every token of its
former purpose has been diligently removed, in order to adapt it to its present
use as a vestry. The entrance from the chancel is by a pointed arched doorway,
having a moulding with ornamental finial and sculptured corbels. It is lighted
by square windows. The exterior doorway being square, and cut for this purpose,
does not correspond with the architecture of the building. The font is circular,
standing on a similar pillar and shaft. In the tower are six bells.

2I6 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

The church was restored in 1878. The flat ceiling was taken down, and
the open roof repaired. The tower arch was opened, and the gallery removed,
the tall pews replaced by open seats, and the chancel fitted with carved oak
stalls, the altar being raised to a third step. An organ chamber has been built,
and an organ erected by Messrs. Hill and Son, London, at a cost of over ,£900.
The old wooden porch has given place to a new stone one, upon which are
carved the heads of the parent saints. The alterations from the former sad
state have now restored this ancient church, erected in place of the original, to
the state of the ancient building.

In the Conqueror's time, Geoffrey de Wirce, to whom the lordship had been
given, granted to the monastery of St. Nicholas, at Angiers, of which Monks
Kirby was a cell, a third part of the tithe corn, wool, cheese, and pannige ;
but Roger de Mowbray, when he came in possession of the lordship, recalled
the gift ; bestowing upon the canons of Kenilworth the church, tithe, and glebe
wholly, and all chapdries belonging thereto; This grant wis confirmed by
several of his successors. Disputes arose, afterwards, between the monks of
Kirby and the canons of Kenilworth, as, also, between the latter and the then lord
of the manor, William de Arden, which were settled, through the mediation of
the bishop and others, by certain payments, and the giving license to the said
William de Arden and his heirs, with their family, to hear divine service in his
chapel at Knowle, saving the indemnity of the mother church of Hampton. In
2ist Henry VIII, William Wall, abbot with the canons of Kenilworth, let to farm
to Sir Edward Ferrers, knight, and Thomas Jackson, clerk, for forty years, all
the tithe corne, and greynes, with all other fruits and profits in anywise growing
in Hampton, Balsall, and Knowle, belonging to the parsonage at Hampton,
payable yearly 9/. 6s. &/., in two instalments. (*)

In the year 1291 this church was valued at eleven marks; and, 26th Henry
VIII, the vicarage, with the chapel at Nuthurst, at i5/. 6s. 8</., over and above
2os. pension paid to the canons of Kenilworth, and us. for procurations, &c.
It is now returned at 5;8/. The Rev. T. J. Morris is the present vicar. The
registers of the church date from 1559.

The Commissioners, 6th Edward VI, found here at their visitation, (f)

oon chalice and iij belles in the steple.

two altarclothes of bokera, and a cou'ing clothe thereto.

a front clothe.

two towells.

two altar clothes, lynen.

two candlesticks, latyn.

two cruett.

ij copes, dornix.

C) Tkomat't

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 217

iij vestm'ts, the first for the p'st, deacon, and subdecon
of dornix clothe, of bustyon and wulsted, w' oon albe and
thimplem'ts thereof.

a pax, mastlyn.

a crosse, coper.

a ban' clothe, silke.

a syndrex of chaungeable silke.

two supleses.

It'm, an other vestm't of silke.

Near to the porch is a very old tomb, composed of huge stones, and one
of similar character is found in another part of the church-yard. Here are also
the remains of the church-yard cross, which was usually erected near to the
south porch. This stands eastward of the chancel, and has an octagonal
pedestal, with quartrefoils on each face. The shaft is broken off at about two
feet from its base.

The vicarage house is a modern erection, standing on the opposite side
of the road, eastward of the church.

West of the church, and adjoining the church-yard, is the site of the
"Old Manor House" of the Ardens, referred to in the inquisition taken i4th
Edward I. A portion of a half-timbered dwelling remains, incorporated with
a farm house, which partly occupies the site. It is still called "The Old
Hall." A considerable extent of the moat, once surrounding it, is discoverable,
forming a fence to the garden. As this house presents nothing to distingiiish
it from other such dwellings, we will proceed to the newly-erected mansion,
which has taken the place of its predecessor, and which is known as

HAMPTON HALL,

built by, and the residence of, the Right Honourable Frederick Peel, the
present lord of the manor. The edifice, standing on a commanding eminence,

2 F

2l8 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

west of the old manor-place, is built in the castellated style, from designs
by — Giles, Esq., of Derby, and the engraving will give a notion of its general
appearance, which, when the trees and shrubs which fill the gardens and
surrounding plantations have attained a larger growth, will materially contribute
to the interest and beauty of the locality.

The charities of Hampton are numerous, the principal one being left by
George Fentham, of Birmingham, in 1690, by which relief is given to the poor,
and a good education imparted to the youth of the place, under suitable masters
and mistresses.

The general appearance of the village has been much improved of late
years. Several houses and cottages have been erected by the lord of the
manor, and a large school built by the feoffees of Fentham's Charity, all giving
a more lively and cheerful appearance to the place. The erection of a station
on the North Western Railway has added also to the accommodation and
considerably advanced the prosperity of the town.

We have already visited Nuthurst, Baddesley, and Knowle, ancient
members of this extensive parish. The other smaller ones of Kinwaldsy^
Chadwick, and Diddington, are of no sufficient interest or importance for the
tourist to visit. Those places were inherited by the Arden family, in the same
manner as the parent parish. Kimoaldsy was granted to the nuns of Mergate,
Bedfordshire, who, with their prioress, Christina, devised it and Diddington,
temp. Richard I, to William de Arden, reserving for themselves the yearly rent
of 2OJ. Hugh de Arden, his son and heir, afterwards purchased the inheritance
of them from Isabel, the next prioress, and the convent for thirty marks. The
property, with Knowle, afterwards came to the monks of Westminster. Chadwick
also belonged to the Ardens, being granted to Peter de Arden by Roger de
Mowbray to hold by the tenth part of a knight's fee. From this Peter it came
to Roger, his brother, whom he made his heir. Coming next to William de
Arden he granted it in dower to his wife, Amicia de Tracey, as tota villa de
Chadelswiz. In 36th Henry III it was certified to be held by the eighth part
of a knight's fee by Peter de Montfort, but in 29th Edward I it had descended
by marriage to Sir John Peche, in the same way as was described in speaking
of Hampton-in-Arden.

As, from their having been at one period proprietors of a great portion of the
northern part of this locality, it has been necessary to introduce this family
of Arden, taking their name from the district, and to give many details of their
history, it will not be irrelevant to make some further remarks relative thereto,
before terminating our labours in leading the tourist through the country at
one time known as the Forest of Arden. Descended from Turchil de Warwick,
branches of the Ardens settled in various parts of the county, viz., at Curdworth,

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 219

Hampton. Kingsbury, Roiburn, Ratley, and other places, all dying out, or
leaving female issue, in a few generations, with the exception of the branch
at Curdworth, which continued till the year 1643, when Robert, great grandson
of Edward Arden, executed, a;th Elizabeth, for high treason in connection
with his son-in-law Somervile, died in his youth, leaving the inheritance to
his sisters.

The population of Hampton-in- Arden in 1841 was 2306, (*) and 689 in the
year 1861. In the year 1563 there were 140 families.(*)

It will be no unfitting conclusion of these wanderings in Arden, if we
request the tourist especially to mark the still strictly rural character of the
district we have attempted to describe — more particularly of the southern and
northern portions of it. Although so close upon large seats of manufacturing
indiistry, its peculiarly rustic features have been preserved almost intact: The
dense and shady woods about Wootton, Morton, Bushwood, Umberslade,
Baddesley, and Hampton, and the great abundance and richness of the hedge
row timber in field, lane, and road, everywhere except in the mid portion of
this district, justly claim for this part of Warwickshire, if not a pre-eminence
of sylvan beauty, at least an equality with any other part of any other county.
The spreading prospects, the gentle hills, the beauty of the valleys which inter
sect in every direction the Forest of Arden, must afford, to every true lover of
the country and its tranquil scenes, an unfailing fund of enjoyment and delight.
Here too, in many a mossy lane, shadowed road, and secluded byway, may
the naturalist find ample scope for the exercise of his taste ; whilst in purling
brooks and winding streams, the disciple of "Old Isaak" may forget the town,
as he plies his art to circumvent the finny tribe. For the healthiness of the
neighbourhood, the ruddy countenances of the villagers are a sufficient voucher :
and, whether seeking health or pleasure, whether worn by the toils, or wearied
with the cares, of business, or of state, here may "all sorts and conditions of
men" find, for awhile, the solace suited to their varied circumstances, needs,
and infirmities. Here may the visitor realize the poet's words :

"The statesman, lawyer, merchant, man of trade,
Pants for the refuge of some rural shade,
Where, all his long anxieties forgot,
Amid the charms of some sequestered spot,
He may improve the remnant of his span,
And, having lived a trifler, die a man."

Statesman or lawyer, merchant or man of trade, who seeks these "cool

(*} This included the whole of the hamlets. I.i i85i they were returned separately.

220 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

sequestered shades," we heartily wish him the fulfilment of the desire so well
expressed by the poet : And when official, professional, or business exigencies
summon him to say farewell to these scenes,

"Where smiling spring its earliest visit pays,
And parting summer's lingering bloom delays,"

we bid him " God speed " on his journey, be it north, east, west, or south, as,
forsaking Hampton-in-Arden, he pursues his homeward course, under the London
and North Western Railway, and turning round to the stations on that line
and the junction line to Whitacre on the Midland Railway, takes his seat in
the train which will bear him to his destination.

CHARTER OF KING HENRY VI, A.D. 1449, TO SIR RALPH BOTELER, KNIGHT.

SEE PAGE 24.

HENRY, by the Grace of God, King of England and France, and Lord of Ireland, to his Arch
bishops, Bishops, Abbots, Priors, Dukes, Earls, Barons, Justices, Sheriffs, Reeves, Ministers, and
all his Bailiffs and faithful Subjects to whom these present Letters shall come, GREETING. Know
ye, that whereas our trusted and beloved Ralph Boteler, lord de Seudeley, knight, is tenant and
owner of the town and manor of Henlsy-in-Arden, in the County of Warwick, and he and all
his ancestors tenants and owners of the town and manor aforesaid, and all others whose estate
he hath in the same manor, have had, and from the time whereof the memory of man is not
to the contrary were wont to have, amongst other things, the liberties and franchises underwritten,
that is to say, view of frankpledge of all the tenants and resiants within the same town and
manor, to be holden twice in the year at Henley aforesaid, and waifs and strays and all things
which appertain to view of frankpledge within the precincts of the town and manor aforesaid,
and a certain market there to be holden every week, namely, on Monday : and we of our special
grace, by our Charter, for us and our heirs as far as in us lies do accept, approve, ratify, and to
the same Ralph and his heirs by the tenor of these presents grant and confirm, all and singular
those liberties and franchises; willing furthermore and granting for us and our heirs aforesaid to
the same Ralph, that, albeit he and his ancestors, lords of the manor aforesaid, or others whose
estate the same Ralph hath in the same town and manor, before these times had not, nor ought
to have had, the liberties and franchises aforesaid, or any of them, or did not fully use them,
nevertheless the same Ralph and his heirs shall hereafter fully use and enjoy those liberties and
franchises and every of them, without let or hinderance of us, our heirs or successors, or
the justices, escheators, sheriffs, coroners, or other ministers of us or our heirs whomsoever.
And furthermore forasmuch as the tenants of the same Ralph, and the resiants in. the town and
manor aforesaid, and within the precincts of the same, before these times have been often
grievously and unjustly vexed, arrested, and disturbed by our sheriffs, escheators, and other
ministers, and the ministers and servants of the same sheriffs, escheators, and other our ministers
aforesaid, by their entry into the town and manor aforesaid, and the precincts of the same, to
execute their offices therein, to the manifest disturbance of our people there, and to the no small
loss and grievance of the same Ralph, as it is said: and we, being willing on that account out
of our royal magnificence to impart our favour to the same Ralph, so that his tenants aforesaid
and the resiants within the town and manor aforesaid, may the more quietly dwell and reside
there, of our especial grace have granted, and by the tenor of these presents for us and our
heirs do grant, to the aforesaid Ralph and his heirs aforesaid that they may have for ever by
themselves, or by their bailiffs or ministers, within the town and manor aforesaid, and the
precincts of the same, the return of all writs and precepts of us our heirs and successors, and
of summonses of the Exchequer of us our heirs £nd successors, and of estreats and precepts of

222 THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

the Justices of us our heirs and successors of either Bench, of the Justices in Eyre of us and
our heirs as well of Pleas of the Crown as of the Common Pleas, and of other Justices of us
and our heirs whomsoever, and also attachment as well of Pleas of the Crown as of bills and
precepts of the stewar.l and marshall and clerk of the market of the household of us our heirs
and successors, and also the execution of the same writs, estreats, summonses, attachments, and
precepts within the town and manor aforesaid, and the precincts of the same, so that no sheriff,
under-sheriff, coroner, bailiff, or any other minister of us or our heirs, shall enter into the said
town and manor, or the precincts of the same, to do or execute anything there in anywise, nor
intermeddle in aught within the same, unless in default of the same Ralph or his heirs aforesaid.
We have granted also for us our heirs and successors as far as in us lies, that the aforesaid Ralph
and his heirs may have infangthief and outfangthief, and all chattels of felons, fugitives, or
persons in anywise condemned or put in exigence for treason or felony, and the chattels of
outlaws, whether it be at the suit of us or ovir heirs or at the suit of a party, the chattels of
felons, of themselves, chattels confiscated or in anywise forfeited of all their tenants, resiants
and non-resiants, and of others resiant within the town and manor aforesaid, albeit the same
tenants, resiant or non-resiant, and others resiant elsewhere, have held of us or our heirs or of
any other person whomsoever ; so that if anyone of them ought to lose his life or limb for
his offence, or shall flee and not be willing to stand his trial, or commit any offence or contempt
for which he ought to forfeit or losi his chattels, wheresoever justice ought to be don e therein,
whether it be in the court of us or our heirs or successors, before us or our heirs or before the
Justices of us or our heirs of one Bench or the other, the Justices assigned to hold the assizes
and gaol delivery', or before any other Justices, Officers, or Commissioners of us or our heirs, the
same chattels shall belong to the same Ralph and his heirs ; And that it shall be well lawful for
the same Ralph and his heirs, by themselves or their ministers, to seize those chattels, and that
they may have, convert, commit, and apply them to their own proper use, without let or
hinJerance of us or our heirs, or the justices, sheriffs, esc'aeators, or ot'.ier ministers or officers of
us or our heirs whomsoever; And that no buyer or purveyor for the household of us or our
heirs do take any goods from the aforesaid Ralph or his heirs, or from any tenants of the same,
resiant or non-resiant, or from others resiant of and in the town and manor aforesaid, and the
precincts of the same, without the will of the same Ralph and his heirs and the tenants afore
said, that is to say, of those whose goods so to be taken they shall be; And that all and
singular the tenants of the same Ralph and his heirs, of the town and manor aforesaid, as
well resiant as non-resiant, and all others there resiant, and all others who hereafter may be
resiant there, shall for ever be quit of toll or tollage, stallage, pontage, paviage, weighage, murage,
keyage, and cheminage, in all places, as well by land as by water, throughout our whole realm
of Eaijlan 1 and elsewhere within our dominions and power. We have granted also to the same
Ralph and his heirs, that they shall have within the town aforesaid every year two fairs, namely,
one fair to be held on Tuesday in the week of Pentecost and the two following days, and the
other fair to be held on the day and feast of St. Luke the Evangelist and the two following days,
with all and singular the things to such fairs appertaining, so that the same be not to the
nuisance of neighbouring fairs. Albeit express mention is not made in these presents of the
true value of the premises or of any of them, nor of any other gifts and grints to the same
Ralph by us or our progenitors before these times made, or any statute, act, ordinance, restriction,

or mandate to the contrary made in anywise notwithstanding. These being Witnesses: The

Venerable Fathers John, Archbishop of Canterbury, Primate of all England, our Chancellor;
Marmaduke, Bishop of Carlisle, our Treasurer of England; and Adam, Bishop of Chichester,
Keeper of our Privy Seal; our most dear Cousins Humphry, Duke of Buckingham and Duke
of Suffolk, our Chamberlain of England; Richard, Earl of Salisbury; and Thomas, Earl of
Devon; our trusty and beloved Sir Ralph Cromwell and Sir James Tenys, Lord de Save,
Chamberlain of our household, Knights; and others.

GIVEN under our hand at Westminster the i6th day of May, in the twenty-seventh year of
our Reign.

[With a seal.] ROUS.

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 223

n.

TRANSLATION OF ANCIENT DEEDS IN THE AUGMENTATION OFFICE,
RELATING TO LAPWORTH. SEE PAGES no AND in.

it known to people now and hereafter, that I, William Catesby, Knight, son and heir
of John Catesby, Esquire, and of Margaret his wife, have given, granted, and by this
my present charter have confirmed, to Robert Catesby, senior, Esquire, and to John Wattson,
Clerk, the half of the manor of Lappworth, with its appurtenances, which formerly belonged
to Rose Mowntforde, and all the lands and tenements, rents and services, together with the
reversions, which I have in the villages and grounds of Lappworth aforesaid, Henley, Wotton,
Beldesert, and Wellesburne, which lately have legally and hereditarily descended to 'me, after
the decease of the aforesaid Margaret, my mother, with their appurtenances in the county of
Warwick. And I have also given and granted to the aforesaid Robert and John all the
tenements, lands, and rents, with their appurtenances, which I have in Brawnstone and
Falkeles in the county of Northampton. To have and to hold the aforesaid half of the manor
of Lappworth, with its appurtenances, and all the aforesaid lands .and tenements, rents and
services, together with the aforesaid reversions, in Lappworth, Henley, Wotton, Beldesert,
Wallesburn, Brawnstone and Falkeles, with all their appurtenances, as is aforesaid, to the
abovenamed Robert Catesby and John Wattson, thair heirs and assigns, for ever, from the
chief lords of those fiefs by the services thence owing and legally customary. And I, the
aforesaid William Catesby, and my heirs will warrant, and for ever defend against all persons,
the aforesaid half of the manor of Lappworth, with its appurtenances, and all the lands
and tenements, rents and services, together with the aforesaid reversions, in Lappworth,
Henley, Wotton, Beldesert, Wellesburn, Brawnstone, and Falkeles, with all their appurtenances,
as is aforesaid, to the abovenamed Robert Catesby and John Wattson, their heirs and assigns.
In testimony of which I have affixed my seal to this present charter. Dated at Lappworth
aforesaid in the feast of Saints Simon and Jude, in the thirty-sixth year of the reign of King
Henry the Sixth after the Conquest of England. The witnesses being : Bawdewin Mountforde
and Edward Dodyngsils, Knights ; William Leucy and Thomas Huggeforde, Esquires ; Thomas
Assheby of Lappworth; John Blythe of the same; John Stalye of Henley; and many others. (*)

LET people now and hereafter know, that I, Ivo Pippard, parson of Lapworth, have given
and granted, and by this my present charter have confirmed, to Master Henry de Brauncestone,
and to his heirs or assigns, all my part and all the pasturage which I have from the feoffmenl
of William de Harecurt, in the Great Park of Lapworth. Also all my part which I have from
the feoffment of the same William in the meadow which is called Havenesham, in the
same village of Lapworth, with the hedges and ditches adjoining the aforesaid park and
meadow, and with all other appurtenances of the same. Also three shillings of an annual
rent from land which Walter de la Wode and William Gardelop formerly held from me in
the same village, which land is called Snelleslond, with the homages, wards, relevies, and all
other appurtenances and escheats, which can hence, in any manner, occur, as well in the land
itself, as in the coppices, meadows, hedges, and ditches, and all other appurtenances of the
same land, for ever, without any hinderance of myself or of my heirs. Rendering thence
annually the same Master Henry and his heirs, to me and to my heirs or assigns, one
head of cloves at Easter, for all service, exaction, custom, or secular demand. And I, the
aforesaid Ivo, and my heirs the aforesaid part of the park and meadow, with the pasturage,
and the aforesaid rent of three shillings, with all the other things abovementioned, will

(*) Marked Warr. No. i (25).

224 THE FOREST OF ARDEX.

warrant, acquit, and defend against all men, to the aforesaid Master Hinry, anrl to his heirs
or assigns, for ever; excepting only the dowry of Matilda la Potere, the wife of the aforesaid
William, if she shall survive her husband and ought to have her dowry from the aforesaid.
In testimony of which I have affixed my seal to the present charter. These being the
witnesses : Richard de Wroxhulle : Walter de Wynterton ; John the Archer ; Richard de
Tulwode ; Geoffrey le Mareschal ; Robert Pippard ; Walter Stikeman ; Walter le Fraunceis ; and
many others.(*)

BE it known to people present and to come, that I, William de Harecurt, formerly Lord
of Lappewored, have granted, and by this my present charter confirmed, to William de
Bissoppesdone, my relative, son and heir of the late Sir Thomas de Bissoppesdone, for his
service, all that land at Lappewrd which Henry Pippard formerly granted and confirmed by
his charter to Simon Bagot of Prestone : And all that land in the same village which
Luke Sorel formerly gave and confirmed by charter to Sir William de Bissoppesdone: And
all that land which Henry le Bonevile formerly gave and confirmed by charter to Sir Thomas
de Bissoppesdone in the same village ; And all the land which Henry Sorel formerly gave and
con finned by charter to the said William de Bissoppesdone, my relative, in the same village :
And the advowson of the church of the said village of Lappewrd, together with two marcs ot
yearly rent at Thorneton. To have and to hold from me and my heirs or my assigns, to him
and to his heirs or his assigns whomsoever, all the aforesaid land, and the advowson of the said
church, and the said rent, with all the liberties and their other appurtenances, freely, quietly,
honourably, in peace, and in fee, for ever. Rendering thence annually to me, my heirs or
my assigns, himself or his heirs or his assigns, one barbed arrow on the day of Pentecost,
for all services, exactions, suits of courts, claims, and for all secular demands. And I, William
de Harecurt, and my heirs or my assigns will warrant, acquit, and defend, for ever, the whole
of the aforesaid land, and the advowson of the said church, and the aforesaid rent, with the
appurtenances, to the said William and to his heirs or his assigns, by the aforesaid service,
against all mortals. But for this concession and confirmation the aforesaid William has given
to me in hand one mark of silver. And because I desire that this my concession, confirmation,
warrant, acquittance, and defence may for ever retain its binding effect, I have confirmed
the present charter with the impression of my seaL These being witnesses: Sir Bardulph
de Cestreton, Sir Thomas de Caunvile, Knights; Peter de Wolwardinton ; John de Cairly;
Richard de Wroxhul; John de Bruly ; Robert Pippard; and others.(t)
[With a Seal.]

HENRY DE BRAI/NTESTONE to all his faithful, free, and customary tenants of Lapworthe,
greeting. Since I have lately given to Sir John de Bisshopisdon, Knight, all my manor of
Lapworth, with the whole of the domain belonging to the said manor, I strictly charge and
direct you, all and singular, that you henceforth regard and consider the same Sir John as your
Lord. And that you may be able to do this wall and securely, I send to you these my letters
patent, sealed with my seal. Dated at Bishwoie on Sunday in the feast of Saint Andrew the
Apostle, in the fourteenth year of the reign of King Edward the son of King Edward.(J)

[With a Seal.]

III.

GUILDS. SEE PAGES 32, 54, AND 170.

t a very early period, and were ori

__r districts, for the purpose of furthering ^^ 5 *.«„*.« ^^ta^ »i me
brotherhood, and assisting each other in cases of sickness. They were of two kinds, religious

UILDS were founded at a very early period, and were originally associations of the
inhabitants of particular districts, for the purpose of furthering the general welfare of the

(•) Mar!;cd \Varr. No. i (26). (j) Marked Warr. No. i (23).

(+) Marked Warr. No. i (31).

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 225

and secular, the former being the character of those guilds refers 1 to in the above pages. These
guilds were established for the performance of works of charity, and for the regular observance
of certain religious services, and in the middle ages they had also the management of the public
amusements of the people. These amusements were considered by the ruling powers of those
days to be so intimately connected with the peace and welfare of society, that they were placed
under the protection of religious guilds, for the purpose of perpetuating their existence ; for it
was thought that if suffered to fall into disuse, the people, being bereft of their customary
sources of relaxation, would employ their vacant time in schemes of mischief. They manage:!
also the religious processions and shows. The heathens had their mysteries, so had the Christians,
and divine worship, in like manner, was accompanied with flowers and perfumes, and clouds of
incense, and the religious edifices were adorned with images, pictures, and symbolical designs.
In processions and public shows the clergy bore a conspicuous part, hence guilds, were established
for their particular direction. Miracle plays were performed, and contributed a splendour to the
rites of religion peculiar to the times in which they flourished. The celebration was usually
kept at one of the annual fairs, or feast of dedication of the church, which, by increasing tli2
number of visitors, brought additional profit to the trades associated in the secular guilds. On
these occasions pleasure was in the ascendant with the masses, anJ no feeling indulged but
anxiety to witness and give increased splendour to the ceremonies.

To establish a guild, or other religious institution, it was necessary to obtain the sanction of
the sovereign, the parties being subject to heavy fines if founded without this authority (see pp.
32, 68). The constitution of the guild was formed of an alderman, brethren, and sisters, and the
vicar or rector, as well as the principal persons in the town and neighbourhood, were enrolled
among the members. They frequently met, but at the annual assembly they went to the church,
offered up their prayers for all the members of the society, dead or living, and concluded with
a dinner at the guild house. Many of the guilds accumulated considerable property, by grants
from individual members, or parties friendly to the institution. The priests generally resided on
the foundations, receiving an annual stipend, and on the dissolution of the monasteries, when
guilds were suppressed, it will be seen that those described in these pages were in possession of
considerable property, taking into account the value of money in the reign of Henry VIII.

IV.

NAMES OF THOSE IN THE DISTRICT WHO CONTRIBUTED TO THE

DEFENCE OF THE COUNTRY AT THE TIME OF THE SPANISH

INVASION, A.D. 1588.

William Skynner, gent, of Rowington - ^"25.

William Fetherston, gent, of Packwood

Gabriel Poultney, gent., of Knowle

William Somervile, gent., of Edstone

Andrew Archer, gent, of Tanworth - 25-

V.

FOREST LAWS. SEE PAGE 10.

-XTO written English Forest Laws existed previous to the time of Canute the Dane. This monarch
IN framed a code about the year 1016, by which the king had the power to take possession of
anv tract of land, and to use it for his own purposes. While the timber and trees were little cared
for the greatest strictness was enforced by these laws in respect of the wild animals with which
the forests abounded. Death was the punishment awarded to those who killed a deer, and i

2 G

226 TfiE FOREST OF ARDEV.

any one merely chased a deer until it panted, a fine was inflicted, the lowest being ten shillings,
which, comparing the value of money in different periods, was a severe penalty at that time.
The verderers were also protected by stringent regulations, and if force were used against them,
the offender, if a freeman, lost his freedom, and if a villein, then, for the first offence, his right
hand was chopped off, and for a second offence he lost his life. These laws continued in force
for upwards of two hundred years, totally restraining all rural pleasures and manly recreations.

William the Conqueror confirmed the code of Canute, and soon after Iris arrival in this
country formed the New Forest, by dispossessing the proprietors of the land, and driving the
population to other localities. William Rufus followed his father's example with regard to these
laws. Stephen, on his accession, promised to redress these grievances of the people, but failed
to do so after he had secured the crown. Richard I also administered the Forest Laws with
severity. In King John's time, and that of his son Henry III, they were so strictly enforced
that they occasioned many insurrections of the barons, or principal feudatories, which had the
effect of obtaining the two great charters of English liberties, viz. Magna Carta and Carlo de
Foresta, 4ist Henry III ; and though the Forest Laws were stringent for many reigns after, the
latter charter swept away the cruel statutes of Canute and William.

VI.
ARMS IN CHURCHES AND MANSIONS. SEE PAGE 226.

A MONGST the Bridges' Papers in the Bodleian Library at Oxford are two volumes of
-£^- Heraldic Notes by W. Belchier of Guilsborough, obiit 1609. They refer to the arms, &c., in
various churches and private dwellings in the counties of Warwick and Northampton. In this
district were the following. The arms are very badly executed in trick, and some of them
scarcely to be made out.

Arms in the windows— Knowle Chapel and College, Lapworth Church, Henley-in-Arden Chapel,
and in the Churches at Bickenhill, Hampton-in-Arden, Temple Balsall, Tanworth, Studley, and
Claverdon.

Arms in Mr. Hugford's, Mr. Hanlope's, Mr. Hawes', and Mr. Danby's houses at Solihull, at
at Langdon Hall, Baddesley Hall, Mr. Fulwood's house at Tanworth, and Mr. Spenser's house
at Claverdon.

Alauna, (Alcester,) a Roman Station, 5.

Alne, I/ittle, a hamlet to Aston Cantloe, historical notes of, 56.

Antiquities found in the district, 4, 5, 8, 88.

Aqueducts on the Stratford Canal, 49, 62.

Archery in time of Henry VIII, 89.

Arden, Forest of, i to 19; present state of, 219.

Ardens, the, a family of great note in the county, 218.

Arms in churches and private dwellings, 226.

Aspley, a member of Wootton Wawen, notices of, 77.

Aston Cantloe, Domesday account of, 49; the Cantelupes long possessors, 50; castle at, 50; the

church described, 51; singular sculpture, 52; chantry chapel, 53; church-yard, 53; guild, 53;

population, 53.

Baddesley Clinton, early history of, 149; poetical descent of, 151; description of the church, 151;

the hall, 155; convent, 156; population, 157.
Barrells Hall, parish of Wootton Wawen, description of in Lady I/uxborough's time, 78; the

modern hall, 79; mausoleum, 80.

Bearley, account of in Domesday and early history, 47; chapel described, 48; population, 48.
Bearley Cross, 40.
Beaudesert, Domesday and other notices of, 113; long the property of the de Montforts, 113; the

church described, 114; population, &c., 116; historical and descriptive notices of the castle,

117.

Beetlesworth, an ancient manor in Tanworth, 91.
Berry Hall, Solihull, description of, 200; the Waring family, 200.
Bickenhill, Church, notice of in Domesday Book and other early documents, 207; the church,

208; chantry in, 210; the castle, 211; population, 211.
Bickenhill, Hill, and other hamlets, short notices of, 208.
Birchey Cross referred to, 93.

Botley, a member of Wootton Wawen, notice of, 82.

Britain in the time of the Romans, I to 8; the Saxons and Danes, 9 to 10; the Normans, II, &c.
Britons, the Ancient, mode of life of, 4; warlike ability of, 5; their ingenuity and skill, 7; their

roads, 5 to 7.

Brome Hall, notice of, 109; the residence of the Bromes, Catesbys, &c., 109.
Buckley Green, a member of Beaudesert, short account of, 112.
Bush wood, an ancient manor house, no; the wood and hamlet, 142.

Camp Hill, a Roman Post, 7, 9, 113.

Castles of the Normans, 20, 50, 70, 116, 202, 211.

Chained books, 42.

Charles I, lands of, sold by the Parliament, 213.

Charter granted for Henley-in-Arden by Henry VI, 24; translation of, 221.

Cheswicke, an old manor in Tanworth, 91,

22g THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Claverdon, in the times of the Saxons and Normans, 125; descent and early customs, &c., 126;

rental,' 128; church described, 126; the seat of the Spencers, called the Stone Building, 129;

population, &c., 131.

Clay Hall, in Tanworth, belonged to the ancient family of Fulwode, 96.
Clergy, the, contributed to the amelioration of the poorer population, 15.
Codbarrow, an ancienc mansion and manor, notes of, 95.
Crosses, roadside and church-yard, in the district, 34, 48, 95, 107, 217.
Cucking-stool, account of the, 195.
Curfew-bell, ringing of the, 195.
Customs, ancient, 24 to 26, 89, 194.

Dedication of churches, 176.

Druids, the, priests and lawgivers of the Ancient Britons, 5, 6.

Easter celebrations in churches, 116.

Edstone, and Hall at, described, 46; Domesday account of, 47; chapel formerly at, 47.
Mini. l»n, Domesday and other notices of, 2o5; notes of the church, 206; population, 207; the
hall, 205.

Fin wood Green, a member of Rowington, 141.

Forde Hall, a member of Wootton Wuwen, notice of, 77.

Forest Laws, 10, 12, 225.

Fortified Houses, ancient, 12 to 14, 95, 108, no, 155, 160, 179, 217.

Forshaw, a member of Solihull, notice of, 200.

Funeral expenses, A.D. 1633, 108.

Gardens, early English, 130.

Gospel Oak, the, 96.

Guilds, religious, 32, 54, 170 224.

Hampton-in-Arden, account of in Domesday Survey and other early records, 212; the church

described, 214; chantry, 215; old manor house, 217; new mansion, "the Hall," 217; present

state, 218; its numerous hamlets, 218; population, 219.
Harborough Banks, a Roman Fortification, 6, 8, 108.
Henley-in-Arden, situation, 22; early history, 23; charter by Henry VI, 24; the chapel, 31; chantry

chapel, 32 ; guild at, 32 ; hospital, 34 ; ancient cross, 35 : modern account of, 37 ; population,

&c., 38-

Henwood Hall, a residence of the Hugford family, 182.
Hen wood Nunnery, account of its foundation and early history, 180; suppression, 182; prioresses

and revenues, 181 ; present remains, 182.

Hillfield Hall, Solihull, account of, 199; the Hawes family, 200.
Hockley Heath, a member of Packwood, short notice of, 164.
Holt, a member of Studley, 73.
Holy Wells, account of, 137, 192.

Johnson, Dr. Samuel, marriage register of the parents of, 163.

Kingswood, a manor of Rowington, 108; the ancient hall, 108; funeral expenses of H. Ferrers,

Esq., 109.

Kington, an ancient member of Claverdon, 132.
Knights Hospitallers, the, 174.
Knights Templars, the, 174,

THE FOREST OF ARDEN. 229

Knowle, early account of, 166; rental of in time of Henry VIII, 166; the church, 167; the college

or guild, 170; population and present state, 172.
Knowle Hall, historical notices, of, 173.

Langdon Hall, Domesday account of the manor and other ancient notices, 179; present aspect,

180.

Langley, a hamlet to Claverdon, notices respecting, 131 ; chapel formerly at, 131.
Lapworth in Saxon and Danish times, 101; Domesday and other early accounts of, 102; the

church described, 103; the chantries, 105; population and other notices of, 107.
Lapworth, translation of ancient deeds relative to, 223.
Lapworth or Bushwood Hall, the residence of the Bishopden family, no; rent account, no; the

Catesbys and gunpowder plot, in; the hall rebuilt, in.
L/apworth Park, short account of, 112.
Lodbroke Park, parish of Tanworth, 90.
Lonesotneford, parish of Rowington, short notice of, 141.
Luxborough, Lady, of Barrells, lines to, 78.

Malvern Hall, Solihull, a seat of the Greswolde family, account of, 197.

Manor Houses, ancient, 17, 90, 95, 197, 199, 200, 202.

Mapleborough Green, a member of Studley, notice of, 72.

Mockley, a member of Wootton Wawen, historical notice of, 77.

Monkspath Street, an ancient manor, 93.

Morton Bagot, extent of in Domesday Survey, and descent of, 61 ; the church, 62 ; population, 63.

Newnham, a hamlet to Aston Cantloe, 54.

Nuthurst, a member of Hampton-in-Arden, early notices of, 97; the chapel and obelisk, 97;
population, 99.

Offorde, a member of Wootton Wawen, early notes of, 57.

Oldberrow, a Worcestershire village, situation and early history of, 59; the church described, 60;

population, 61.
Olton End, formerly Ulverlie, historical notices of, 202; present state and hall at, 203.

Packwood, not noticed in Domesday, earliest notices of, 160; Packwood House, 157; the hall,
160; description of the church, 161; Aylesbury House, 163; population, &c., 164.

Parks or Chases, 13.

Parochial accounts, curious extracts from, 51, 90, no, to 190, 191, 195, 197.

Pathlow, a member of Aston Cantloe, gave name to the Liberty of Pathlow, 55.

Perkin Warbeck, revolt of, 213.

Pinley and its Priory, foundation and gifts to, 133; Earl Waleran of Warwick places his daughter
therein, 134; dissolution, 135; prioresses, 135; present state, 135.

Population of the district in 1565, 18.

Priories and other religious houses, 15, 43, 66, 133, 135, 145, 175, 180.

Preston Bagot, account of in Domesday and other early documents, 122; the church, 123; chantry,
124; the rectory, population, &c., 124.

Relics in monasteries, 148.

Roman roads, 5.

Rowington, Domesday and other early notices of, 137; the church, 138; chantry, 141; population

and present state, 141.
Ryknield Street, the, a Roman road, 5.

Salter Street, a chapelry to Tanworth, 90; the chapel described, 90.

23o THE FOREST OF ARDEN.

Shakespeare, a rambler in the Forest of Arden, 18.

Shelfield, a member of Aston Cantloe, 56; notices of the manor and manor house, 57.

Shirley Street, chapelry to Solihull, 201; the church at, 202.

Sidenhall, a manor in Tanworth, 91.

Silhill Hall, Solihull, notice of, 200.

Sillesburne, a hermitage, 49.

Skills, a member of Studley, history of, 72; Skilts House, 73.

Snitterfield Bushes referred to, oo.

Solihull, situation, 185; Domesday account of, 185; historical notices of, 186; the church described,

187; chantry, 189; chantry of St. Alphege, 191; the curfew, 194; ancient customs, &c., at,

195; present state of, 194; old manor houses, 199 to 202; population, 203.
Songar, a member of Claverdon, early nonces of, 133.

Spanish Invasion — Names of Gentry who contributed to the Defence of the Country, 225.
Spernall, account of in Domesday and its early history, 65; the church, 64; population, 65.
Studley, two manors at the taking of Domesday Survey, 65; descent of these manors, 66; the

prior)', 66; list of priors, 68; the church, 68; chantry, 69; the old castle, 71; the modern

castle, 71; population, &c., 73.

Tanworth, included in Brailes at the time of the Norman conquest, early historical notices of,

83; the church described, 83; chantry of the Virgin, 87; chantry of St. Catherine, 88;

modern aspect, 89; old manors, 90; population, 90.
Temple Balsall, the early property of the de Mowbrays, given to the Knights Templars, 174;

succeeded by the Knights Hospitallers, 175; remains of the hall described, 175; the temple

church, 176; the hospital or almhouses, 178; population, 179.

rilenhall, hamlet to Wootton Wawen, Domesday and other early notices of its history, 74; the

chapel described, 75; population, 76.
Umberslade, an ancient manor in the parish of Tanworth, long the property of the Archer

family, 93; the hall, 94.

Whitley, a member of Wootton Wawen, short notice of, 121.

Widney, a member of Solihull, account of, 201.

Wilmecote, a hamlet to Aston Cantloe, historical notices of, 54; the chapel described, 55.

Wootton Wawen, Domesday account of, 39; descent of the two manors, 40; description of the

church, 41; the priory, 43; Wootton Hall, 44; Roman Catholic chapel, 45; cemetery at,

45 ; population, 47.

Wroxhall, not mentioned in Domesday Survey, 143; legendary account of Hugh de Hatton,
144; priory founded at, 145; prioresses, 145; the church and priory described, 146; the

modern mansion called Wroxhall Abbey, 149; population, &c,, 149,

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