FORTY YEARS
COL.S.B.STEELE, C.B,.M.V.O.
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FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
BY COL. S. B. STEELE, C.B., M.V.O.
<:.^'
FORTY YEARS
IN CANADA
REMINISCENCES OF THE GREAT
NORTH-WEST WITH SOME ACCOUNT
OF HIS SERVICE IN SOUTH AFRICA
BY COLONEL S. B. STEELE, C.B., M.V.O.,
LATE OF THE N.W.M. POLICE AND
THE S. AFRICAN CONSTABULARY
EDITED BY MOLLIE GLENN NIBLETT
WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY
J. G. COLMER, C.M.G., & 17 PLATES
HERBERT JENKINS LIMITED
ARUNDEL PLACE, HAYMARKET
LONDON, S.W. fig « MCMXV
^>!^
WBM LOMOOM ADD MOKWICR PRBSS, UllITBD, LONCOM AND NORWICH
INTRODUCTION
BY J. G. COLMER, C.M.G.
WRITTEtf AT THE SPECIAi; REQUEST OK THE L\T«
LORD STRATHCONA, G.C.M.G.
THE late Lord Strathcona promised to write a foreword
for Colonel Steele's projected book, but his lamented
death intervened. Although not able to carry out
his intention, he did not forget the promise ; and
among his last words was a request to me to undertake the
duty for him and in his name. Lord Strathcona had a sincere
regard for Colonel Steele, and never forgot the services rendered
by him as commanding officer of " Strathcona's Horse " during
the South African war. When his name was mentioned for
that position. Lord Strathcona at once accepted the nomination,
as he recognised that Colonel Steele was one of the most
suitable men for the command, in view of his long experience
in that famous force the Royal North West Mounted Police.
I write with some knowledge of the subject, as it was my
privilege to assist Lord Strathcona in the organisation of
his distinguished regiment ; and, besides, I can look back on
twenty years or more of personal acquaintance with the
author of this volume. In this connection, I may say in
passing that it was a gracious act on the part of the Canadian
Government to perpetuate the name of " Strathcona's Horse "
by the formation of the permanent western regiment which
now bears that honoured name. Lord Strathcona was much
gratified by this mark of consideration, and it was especially
pleasing to him that Colonel Steele was selected for its
command.
The reader of Colonel Steele's book will be impressed with
the simplicity and vigour of the man. His life during the
last forty years, except for the time he was in South Africa,
V
327973
vi INTRODUCTION
is synonymous with the progress and development of the
western territories of the Dominion of Canada, now one of
the leading agricultural countries of the world. He was
there in the early days before there were railroads or settlements
or wheat fields — when the country was largely in possession of
the Indian and the trapper, and covered by herds of hundreds
of thousands of the buffalo. What a change these forty years,
or thirty years, or even a lesser period has brought about !
In the decade from 1870 to 1880, and even up to 1890, it was
possible to travel over many parts of this vast area without
seeing a house from morning till evening ; while at the present
time passengers on the thousands of miles of railway that
now intersect the western provinces in every direction are
hardly ever out of sight of cities, towns and villages, huge
grain elevators, and thriving homesteads.
It is impossible to give too much credit to successive govern-
ments, to the Hudson's Bay Company, and to the Royal
North West Mounted Police for what they have done to assist
in the peaceful and wonderful development of what was once
the red-man's country, and described, later on, by Lord
Beaconsfield as "an illimitable wilderness." It is true that
there were some troubles in 1869-70, when the country was
transferred from the Hudson's Bay Company to the Dominion
Government, and again in 1885 ; but these arose rather
from the misdirected ambition of a few prominent men among
the half-breeds and Indians than from any really deep-rooted
grievances. The Hudson's Bay Company had always instilled
into the native mind that fair treatment would be extended
to them, that the word of the Great White Company and its
officers could always be relied upon and kept. The Govern-
ment continued this policy, and it soon became kno\\Ti that
justice was being administered equally to the red man and to
the white. Herein lies the explanation of the excellent relations
it has always succeeded in maintaining with the red population
— which enabled the country to be opened up for settlement
and cultivation with so little friction and difficulty. The
North West Mounted Police was the channel through which
this wise policy was carried out, and the tact and discretion
it has always shown in keeping law and order within so
INTRODUCTION vii
immense a territory, and the confidence felt in the force
both by the Indians and the settlers, afford ample evidence
of the manner in which such duties have been carried out.
Few are aware of the part played by the Mounted Police
in connection with the construction of railways in, and the
immigration movement to, Manitoba and the other western
provinces since the early seventies. The men employed
on the construction work, especially in the earlier days, were
not exactly angels, and a good deal of tact, good temper and
determination had to be shown in handling them. And further,
immigrants of all races have been pouring into the country
in their thousands and tens of thousands, and many of these
settlers must be grateful to the Mounted Police for timely
help and counsel. The force has also been of much use to
the Indian Department in its successful efforts to transform
the red man into a useful citizen and a worker. My experience
— and I have travelled over a good deal of the country — is that
the officers and troopers of the North West Mounted Police
are welcomed wherever they go. Their work has not been
confined to the settled districts, or districts in course of settle-
ment ; they have done splendid pioneer work in the Yukon,
and are still similarly engaged round the shores of Hudson's
Bay, and in the far northern boundaries of the country.
Colonel Steele has taken no small part in the course of events
to which reference has been made, and has a record of which
most men would be proud. His life has been full of incident,
but he is a modest man, never accustomed to blow his own
trumpet, preferring the more sterling satisfaction of doing well
whatever duty was entrusted to him. He is a splendid example
of the man who puts deeds before words, and this is shown not
only in his record in Canada, but while in command of Strath-
cona's Horse, and in his subsequent work in the South African
Constabulary. For all these reasons I have no doubt that this
volume of reminiscences will have a wide circle of readers in
the many parts of the Empire in which the name and sterling
qualities of Colonel Sam Steele are well known and appreciated.
J. G. COLMER.
Dominion Day,
1st July, 1914.
CONTENTS
PAca
INTRODUCTION v
CHAPTER I
My birth and ancestry — A fighting family — My father's career
in the navy — ^The Leopard and the Chesapeake — His first
marriage — He emigrates — His life of public service — A
tedious journey — His second marriage — Our early educa-
tion— The training of a backwoodsman — My half-brother,
John Steele — A crack shot — Fenian raids — My military
training — The Clarksburg Company — The Red River
rebellion ......... i
CHAPTER II
The Red River settlement — The transfer to the Dominion —
Dissatisfaction of the Metis — Louis Riel — Capture of Fort
Garry — Attempts at conciliation — Mr. Donald Smith —
Riel's violence — Murder of Scott — Public indignation —
Organization of an expedition — Colonel Wolseley — I join —
Preparations — A narrow escape — Prince Arthur's landing —
Jack of all trades — The voyageurs — The advance — The
difficulties of the expedition — Donald McKellar — Captain
Redvers Duller ........ 6
CHAPTER III
Colonel Wolseley's example — Portaging — A ship's load — Mon-
sieur Baril — Dissensions among the rebels — The Winnipeg
river — " Anak " — An exciting moment — The Stone Fort —
Fort Garry — Winnipeg — The success of the expedition —
Tributes to the troops — An unfortunate incident — Smallpox
in the west — Its rapid spread — I am promoted to corporal
— A tough lot — Trouble in the barracks — Drills and
" Ladies' Parades "....... 22
CHAPTER IV
Winnipeg forty years ago — Dances — Weddings — Funerals —
Sundays — Schools — Buffaloes — The new province of Mani-
ix
CONTENTS
PAGE
toba — Election riots — Our relaxations — We leave Fort
Garry — Home again — The Canadian artillery — A good
record — An active veteran — The inception of the North
West Mounted Police — " The wild and woolly west " —
Whisky traders — " Whoop up " — " The Spitsee cavalry "
— A treacherous attack — The Peigans, Crees, and Assini-
boines — The state of things in the west .... 41
CHAPTER V
The organization of the N.W.M.P. — We leave for Fort Garry — I
am made sergeant-major — Anomalies of the organization —
Life at the Stone Fort — The march to the wilderness — A
stampede — A motley calvacade — The march — We leave
the main party — We start for Edmonton — A convoy of
crocks — A disastrous jump — Forest fires — Pemmican —
Fort Carlton — Roast skunk — Difficulties of the journey —
Exhausted horses — A sea of mud — An awful night — The
limit of endurance — Trouble on trouble — Edmonton at last
— Colonel French's march — Jerry Potts — The Rockies —
Whisky raids — The first pow-wow with the Blackfeet
Nation — Crowfoot — The Blackfeet — A case of self-defence
— The Swan River barracks — Colonel French's report — A
record march ........ 59
CHAPTER VI
Edmonton — English Charley — The police ball — Whisky runners
— Buffalo Lake camp — Our first mail — Fort Saskatchewan
— I am appointed chief constable at Swan River — My journey
— Indian piety — Gabriel Dumont — The law of the plains —
Buffalo hunts — The manufacture of pemmican — Its excel-
lence— The building of the barracks at Swan River — The
personnel of the N.W.M.P. — The work of the force — Its
high standard — Its equipment — Colonel French's resigna-
tion— Our presentation to him ..... 84
CHAPTER VII
Lt.-Col. Macleod appointed Commissioner — Short notice — A
long trek — The Indian Treaties of 1876 — Fort Carlton — The
council — The dance of the stem — The signing of the treaty
— Fort Pitt — Another treaty — Headquarters at Fort Mac-
leod— Sitting Biill — Custer's army annihilated — Spotted
Eagle's account — A busy time — The chinook — Christmas
at Fort Macleod — Hiram Upham — The influence of the
force — An unfortunate affair — The Indian treaties of 1877
CONTENTS xi
PAGE
— The Lieutenant Governor's speech — Crowfoot's speech —
The chiefs sign — The Indians' tribute to Colonel Macleod . loi
CHAPTER VIII
The Sioux in Canada — Major Walsh and Sitting Bull — Grievances
against the United States — The commission — General Terry
— The conference with the chiefs — Sitting Bull's reply —
Failure of the commission — Work at Fort Macleod — Buck-
skin Charlie — The Assiniboine sun dance — The initiation of
the braves — Indian signs — An awful journey — Big Bear's
band — Leveillee — Jerry Potts — An adventurous youth —
A triumph of strategy — Indian honesty — An intelligent
goose .......... 123
CHAPTER IX
Postal facilities in the north west — A fraudulent contractor —
American hospitality — Civil War veterans — Changes in the
force — An unsuccessful experiment — Horse stealing — An
accident — A bad attack of fever — A mysterious murder —
The buffalo lost to Canada — Hardships of the north west —
A masonic banquet — The mystery cleared up — A courageous
arrest — A scandalous verdict — Trouble with the Sarcees —
Horse thieves — Moose Jaw Bone — Fort Qu'appelle — The
last fight between Indians in Canada — A ludicrous episode
— Colonel Macleod's resignation — Lt.-Col. Irvine succeeds
him — My winter quarters — Snow blindness — An old plain-
hunter's remedy — An agricultural experiment — Sitting Bull
again — He surrenders to the United States — The Governor
General's tour — His reception in the west — The Indian
chiefs' welcome — The Governor General on the duties of
the Mounted Police . . . . . . .141
CHAPTER X
Settlers in the west — The land boom — The prodigal son —
Recruiting for the force — The construction of the C.P.R. —
Regina — " The Pile of Bones " — A game of poker — A
speedy trial — The farm colonies — An amateur rancher —
A clever ruse — Work on the C.P.R. — An unsatisfactory
N.C.O. — Calgary — Misguided enthusiasm — Trouble with the
Blackfeet — General Strange's ranch — Prohibition — Ingeni-
ous devices — A brutal murder — Clues — No lynching in
Canada — Indian unrest — I am appointed to British
Colimabia — A prisoner escapes — I am sent to re-arrest him —
Crowfoot — Indian hostility — A ticklish position — Firmness
succeeds — An amazing acquittal — New Calgary. . . 163
xii CONTENTS
CHAPTER XI
PAGB
The C.P.R, in the Rockies — The prohibition belt — Difficulties
in our way — Extension of our powers — The Tote Road —
Kicking Horse Pass — A remarkable experience — I have a
narrow escape — No idUng on the C.P.R. — The British
Association — The Beaver River — Tall stories — American
politics — A heated argument — A case of self-defence —
A mysterious murder — Gamblers and toughs — " Rolling " —
Our long hours — Unrest among the navvies — A strike —
The rebellion in the north west — Urgent appeals — I
warn the strikers — A difficult arrest — Strong measures —
A riot averted — Peace restored — The half-breeds' griev-
ances— Louis Riel again — Danger of an Indian outbreak —
Outrages by the half-breeds — The Prince Albert Volunteers
— Duck Lake — Troops hurried west — General Middle ton's
orders — The work of the Mounted Police — Unfounded
attacks in the press . . . . . . .186
CHAPTER XII
Alarm at Calgary — Major General Strange — I join his force —
Steele's scouts — Big Bear's band — We march from Calgary —
General Strange's plans — His way with obstruction —
Rev. George Mackay — Edmonton — The Frog Lake massacre
— Fort Pitt's danger — The fort abandoned — We follow Big
Bear — A brush with the enemy — The Indians retire —
Pursuit — A sharp encounter — An offer to the Indians —
General Middleton's neglect — The chance of a life-time —
New country — Official ineptitude — The release of the
prisoners — The end of the campaign — The commanders'
tributes — Unrecognized merit — Red tape — Bull Dog Kelly
— A mystery solved — Trouble with the B.C. authorities —
A magisterial squabble — Colonel Macleod as peacemaker —
Mr. Donald Smith drives the last spike of the C.P.R. — A
pleasure trip — Back to the plains . . . . .211
CHAPTER XIII
The prairies again — Battleford — The trial of the Frog Lake
murderers — The new Indian agent — A popular appointment
— Church -going in the force — An " offertory " — Our new-
commissioner — The training of the force — The north west
rebellion medals — Farcical awards — I am transferred to
the south west — A hard winter — The chinook at last —
The Kootenay district — Chief Isadore — Colonel Baker —
Straightforwardness of the Indians — The Indian Reserves
CONTENTS xiii
PAGE
Commission — The Kootenay character — Discipline among
Ihe Indians — More trouble with Chief Isadore — A satis-
factory settlement — Sports — Some good performances —
Chief Isadore's tribute to the force — Back to Macleod —
The commissioner's report — The work of the force — Its
efficiency — Prairie fires — " Neck- tie socials " . . . 238
CHAPTER XIV
Indian depredations — The young braves — An arrest opposed —
The police and the Indians — The Governor General's tour —
A display of Indian horsemanship — My marriage — A visit
to the United States — The New York police — An interview
with Sir John Macdonald — The capacity of Southern
Alberta — The Mormon settlement at Cardston — Organiza-
tion and customs — Social life at Macleod — Cowboy sports —
A wonderful feat of horsemanship — An exciting drive —
Alarming experiences — Christmas in the west — Changes
in the territory — Death of Lt.-Col. Macleod — A loss to the
Dominion — A distinguished career — Another sad loss —
Jerry Potts — A faithful servant and an unequalled guide —
His influence with the Indians — A tedious hunt — " Bad
Young Man " — Almost trapped — Clues — The pursuit —
The pursuers defied — Captured at last — Wild stories in the
press — The Diamond Jubilee — The N.W.M.P. contingent 262
CHAPTER XV
The Mounted Police in the Yukon territory — The gold discovery
in Bonanza Creek — The gold rush — Mr. William Ogilvie —
I am sent to the Yukon — A dangerous voyage — We reach
Skagway — The Chilkoot Pass — The state of Skagway —
Soapy Smith and his gang — Sheep camp — Gamblers and
swindlers — Awful weather — A customs post established —
A strenuous life — Our varied duties — Interesting visitors —
Jack Crawford — Wild Bill and some of his exploits — Good
Samaritans — Fatal avalanches — We are reinforced — Con-
ditions at Dawson — The Queen's birthday celebrations —
The great trek to Dawson — Miles Canyon — A serious acci-
dent— We take charge — A motley fleet — Dangeroiis duty —
American extortion — A narrow escape — An adventurous
lady — A friend in need ....... 288
CHAPTER XVI
I am honoured by the government — Gold claims at Atlin Lake —
Mr, Ogilvie appointed commissioner — Our quarters at
xiv CONTENTS
PAca
Dawson — Our force increased — Dawson City — T5^hoid
and scurvy — The Board of Health — Methods of raising
money — A busy day — The mails — The utility of the force — •
Foreigners in the Yukon — A " scoop " thwarted — A dis-
tressed damsel — Hard labour on the wood pile — ^The
criminal classes — Gold mining in the winter — Heavy
work — A cosmopolitan population — Dr. Good kept busy — ■
A " natural born colonel " — The new royalty system —
Changes in the force — I leave the Yukon — My work in the
territory — A hearty send-off — An ingenious expedient —
Skagway changed — The end of Soapy Smith — Home again —
Montreal — The beginning of the South African war . . 317
CHAPTER XVII
The Canadian Mounted Rifles — The Royal Canadian Dragoons —
Strathcona's Horse — Recruiting — An offer from Arizona —
The corps complete — A farewell banquet — We sail for
South Africa — A letter from Lx)rd Strathcona — Arrival
at Cape Town — Our first job — Kosi Bay — The plan mis-
carries— We join General Buller — A reinforcement from
Canada — Our general utility — Sir Redvers Buller — White
flag incidents — Slanders on the corps — Looting — We join
General French's column — Lord Dundonald — Pretoria — A
tribute to the corps — Varied duties — Major General Baden-
Powell — Our recall — Lord Kitchener's tribute — More
slanders on the corps — England — A warm welcome — King
Edward presents us with colours — Lord Strathcona's
Hospitality — Banquets and sight-seeing — Mr. Joseph Cham-
berlain— Our last night in England — Our return to Canada
— Lord Strathcona's generosity — Promotions and decora-
tions— The South African Constabulary .... 338
CHAPTER XVIII
leave Canada again — I stay with Lord Strathcona — My old
home in England — I sail for the Cape — English ignorance
about Canada — Johannesburg — The South African Con-
stabulary— Organization — Lord Kitchener — Kruger's house
— Major General Baden-Powell's tour — Efficiency — Promo-
tion in the force — Negotiations for peace — Peace signed —
The Kaffirs and their arms — Lord Kitchener's farewell —
The task of the government — The magisterial system — Its
inconveniences — Trouble with the Kaffirs — Rinderpest —
An empire trip — A tour of inspection — The Buys Boers —
Hay — The disarming of the Kaf&rs — Improvement in the
magisterial system — The census — Game wardens — Lions —
Snakes — My wife comes out to South Africa — Mr. Chamber-
lain's visit — The Kaffirs 3^5
CONTENTS XV
CHAPTER XIX
PAG«
Major General Baden-Powell's new appointment — His successor
— My tour of inspection — Hard work and fitness — A capable
factotum — Crocodiles — Chief Matoppo's kraal — His eleven
queens — Not too old at fifty — Reform in the judicial system
— The War Claims Commission — The census — Baseless
rumours — The plagues — President Kruger's funeral —
Politics — The Chinese labour question — Chinese outrages —
An ingenious excuse — Colonel Nicholson's generosity —
Visit of the Duke and Duchess of Connaught — The guarding
of the Rand — The Royal Commission — My recommendations
— Boer of&cers — My resignation — The Simmer and Jack
Mine — We leave for England — My wife's illness — " Home "
again — A pleasant time in England — Back to Canada —
In harness again — ^The new west — The pioneers' reward . 388
INDEX
413
ILLUSTRATIONS
Colonel S. B. Steele Frontispiece
All that Remains of Old Fort Garry
Fort Edmonton, Winter ....
Fort Saskatchewan
Red Crow, Head Chief of the Blackfeet Nation
1895
Chief Big Bear, of the Plain Crees, 1885 .
Lt.-Col. James Farquharson Macleod, C.M.G.
On the Bow River .....
Kicking Horse Flats . . . .
Pioneers of Edmonton ...
Young Blood Squaws and Children in Macleod
District
N.W.M.P. Artizans, Macleod.
Calgary Indians ......
Dyea Trail Canyon, 1898 ....
Group taken at Midnight at the Yukon Police
Barracks, Dawson, June, 1899
Lord and Lady Strathcona and the Officers of
Strathcona's Horse ....
Colonel S. B. Steele, from a Photograph lent
by Mrs. William Ogilvie
PACE PAGK
28
74
90
120
136
156
176
192
214
242
256
266
296
334
360
392
FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
BY COL. S. B. STEELE, C.B., M.V.O.
FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
CHAPTER I
My birth and ancestry — A fighting family — ^My father's career in the
navy- — ^The Leopard and the Chesapeake — His first marriage — ^He
emigrates^ — His life of public service — A tedious journey — ^His
second marriage' — Our early education — The training of a back-
woodsman— My half-brother, John Steele — A crack shot — Fenian
raids — My mihtary training — ^The Clarksburg G^mpany^ — The Red
River rebellion.
I WAS bom on January 5, 1849, at Purbrook, township of
Medonte, county of Simcoe, province of Ontario. I was
the fourth son of Captain Elmes Steele of the Royal
Navy, by his second wife, Anne, the youngest daughter
of Neil Maclan Macdonald, of the Ardnamurchan branch of
the Macdonalds, who was a native of Islay, Argyllshire, Scot-
land, and was a grandson of Captain Godfrey MacNeil of Barra,
and nephew of Colonel Donald MacNeil of the British Army.
My grandfather was Dr. Elmes Steele of Coleford, whose
brother. Colonel Samuel Steele, served at the capture of Quebec.
My father was one of seven sons, three of whom served in
the navy and three in the army during the great war, and one,
WiUiam, adopted his father's profession and practised in
Abergavenny, where his descendants are still residing.
My father served in the navy during the days of Nelson and
later, and was present at many engagements on board some of
the most famous ships. He entered the service in the last
decade of the eighteenth century as a midshipman on board the
Triton, thirty-two guns, in March, 1798. In 1800 he was trans-
ferred to the Cambridge, seventy-four guns, the flagship of
Sir Thomas Pasley, and then to the Atlas, ninety-eight guns.
In November, 1802, he was nominated master's mate of the
Caroline, thirty-six guns. During the passage of the Caroline
to the East Indies a prize was taken, and my father was placed
2 «; : • -.FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
on board with, very naturally, the worst of the crew, to take her
home, his only assistant being a young middy of sixteen years,
named Curran, a nephew of the great Irish lawyer, John Philpot
Curran. On their way to Cork the British crew broke into
the spirit-room one night and got drunk. In the midst of
their disorder the ship was retaken by the enemy, but she did
not remain in their hands for many days. They had lost their
reckoning, and my father was called upon deck to assist them
in working it out, and as a reward was permitted to walk the
deck. Curran was also allowed to come up to keep him com-
pany. Finally, when in sight of the Scilly Isles, the ship was
retaken by a ruse and her course changed to Cork. For this
service my father was made a freeman of the city of Gloucester.
Early in 1805 he was nominated lieutenant of L'Aimable,
and between August following and December, 1812, he was
employed on the coast of North America and in European
waters. He was on the Leopard at the time of the famous
" incident " with the Chesapeake, when they enforced the right
to search foreign ships for British deserters, and commanded a
broadside in the encounter. This extraordinary action was
brought about by the direct orders of the British government
through the admiral commanding the North American squad-
ron, but the powers that controlled the navy at that time went
back on their officers, and meted out some punishment to all,
including my father, although he was only acting under the
orders of Captain Humphries, whom if he had not obeyed, he
would no doubt have been tried by court-martial and shot.
His hottest time was in the Basque Roads under Cochrane,
and he commanded a forced landing and destruction of guns and
signal-stations at Baignio, on the coast of France. He con-
tinued on the active list for some years after Waterloo, but
Europe was tired of war, the navy was reduced, and, as there
was little to do, he took to the land and interested himself
in civil affairs. After his marriage with Miss Coucher of Bath,
and for several years he lived in Paris and Coutances and
Normandy. There were six children of the marriage, who were
given every advantage in France until the Revolution of 1830,
when he and his family returned to England.
In 1832 my father and many other British officers of the
PIONEERS IN CANADA 3
army and navy were induced by Lieutenant-General Sir John
Colbome, at that time governor of Upper Canada, to emigrate
with a large number of soldiers and sailors to that province and
and settle on the vacant Crown Lands. He proceeded there
with his second son, John, and took up 1000 acres of land in
the picturesque county of Simcoe, cleared off the forest, built
at bis own expense the first AngHcan Church in the township,
and eventually became the first member of parliament for the
county, his election being one of the most hotly contested in
the records of the county. During the remainder of his long
life, he devoted himself enthusiastically to everything that
would benefit his adopted country, and became a magistrate
and colonel of the miUtia. The old soldiers and sailors who had
emigrated had commuted their pensions to reahze sufficient
money to make a start in the new land, and at one time they,
hke many others, were in sore straits to make ends meet.
While my father was in parhament he took the lead in inducing
the home government to restore their pensions.
The year after he had settled at Purbrook, Mrs. Steele and
all but one of the family, his eldest son, Elmes, afterwards a
doctor in Abergavenny, joined my father, the sailing ship
which brought them to New York taking two and a half
months to cross the Atlantic. They then came by the Erie
Canal to Rochester, whence the only railroad in America, the
short hne from that place to Oswega, took them to the only
steamboat on the Great Lakes. My father met them at Little
York, now the fine city of Toronto, and they crossed Lake
Simcoe on the sloop which carried passengers to the httle
Indian village of Orillia. They went cheerfully through the
inconveniences of pioneer life in the backwoods, and no doubt
enjoyed a great deal of it.
Mrs. Steele, a much beloved lady, died in the forties, when her
family were well settled in hfe, the girls in Toronto, and in
1848 my father married again. At the early age of twenty-
nine my mother died, leaving six children, the eldest
myself, only eleven years old. Our years were very happy
before that, but there came afterwards much sorrow and a
great deal of unhappiness, brightened, of course, at times by
the kindly sympathy of our relations. Previous to our sad
4 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
bereavement we had moved into Orillia, which was no longer
the red man's home, and there the older ones of the family were
sent to school. My brother Dick and I went to one kept by
a talented old English gentleman, Mr. Edwin Slee, whose wife
taught French, but before I went there I had the benefit of my
father's excellent teaching and a large stock of books, and was
in consequence able to slip into the top class with the older boys.
In those days every man and boy, and many girls and women,
could shoot, swim, and find their way through the forests,
which were then a trackless wilderness, and all men and boys
could ride well. I had the benefit of all this, and in winter
could skate, play any game, wrestle and box ; our bouts at
school were without gloves, as all boys could not afford to
purchase any, and we had to do without.
My riding and shooting I learned under the auspices of my
cousins in the township of Oro, Captain Hugh Clarke, then only
a lad, being my preceptor, assisted by my cousins of the Maclan
clan, who were kind comrades and teachers. With my cousin,
J. B, Clarke, now K.C. of Toronto, I roamed the woods during
the hohdays, built boats and rafts, assisted Hugh to make
gunpowder and ball, using the heavy rifle or fowUng-piece as
soon as we could carry them. There was nothing in the Ufe of
the backwoods pioneer that we did not know and desire to
learn.
I was thirteen years old when my father moved into the
country again, and in 1865 he died full of years, and I lived for
a short time with my half-brother, John, who had a leading
place in the country, and was thirty years or more my senior.
An association with him was a great advantage to any lad, for he
was kind and cultured, a true gentleman, admired by all who
knew him. He was one of the best shots that I have known,
and a good sportsman, who could shoot, run or ride, and he
joined the young men and boys in their games. He used the
heavy octagon barrelled rifles, with their weighty iron ramrod,
and I have often known him shoot the heads off two partridges
at once. On such an occasion his Highland Scotch companion
used to suggest sagely to his neighbours that the Evil One must
have loaded John Steele's rifle ! In those days the farmers
would assemble at some " corners " and shoot for geese.
EARLY MILITARY TRAINING 5
turkeys, and even horses and cows, at so much per shot, and if
the Council were sitting in the neighbourhood he would some-
times have to adjourn to shoot for some old gentlemen who had
been bred under different conditions.
As a boy I shared in that sort of Ufe, and when the Fenians
began to threaten Canada, and made raids on our honest,
loyal people, I joined the militia at about sixteen years of age.
As I had been given a commission in Number 6 company of
the 35th Regiment, I had to quahfy for the highest rank, and
did so with the 2nd battahon Leicestershire Regiment, taking
the best certificate going, and making one hundred per cent, of
marks on drills and dicipline. I did not remain long with that
company, however, as circumstances compelled me to do better
for myself, and I got employment as a clerk in the business
of a Mr. Tumbull of Clarksburg, co. Grey. While there I
raised and trained the Clarksburg company of the 31st Regi-
ment, and was asked by the leading people to take command,
but I felt that I was too young and not prominent enough to
take a company when there were fine men there to undertake
it. I left there after putting the company in good order and
well organized, parting from them with much regret. I was
still interested in the force, however, and made a close study
of all mihtary matters, at the same time looking well after the
interests of my employers, until the disturbances of the Red
River Metis under Louis Riel changed the course of my life.
CHAPTER II
The Red River settlement — The transfer to the Dominion — Dissatis-
faction of the Metis — Louis Riel — Capture of Fort Garry —
Attempts at conciliation' — ^Mr. Donald Smith — Riel's violence' —
Murder of Scott — Public indignation — Organization of an expedi-
tion— Colonel Wolseley — I join — Preparations — A narrow escape —
Prince Arthur's landing — Jack of all trades — The voyageurs —
The advance — The difficulties of the expedition — Donald McKellar
. — Captain Redvers Duller.
DURING the autumn of 1869 and for many months of
1870 the Red River Settlement of the North West
or Hudson's Bay Territory was in the throes of
rebeUion. This then remote colony was situated in
what is now the fertile province of Manitoba, and extended
for a considerable distance along the banks of the Red and
Assiniboine rivers. Its inhabitants were the descendants of
Scotch settlers, who had been placed there by the famous Earl
of Selkirk, and French Metis, descendants of half-breeds, the
renowned " coureurs de bois " of Canada, who had been in the
employ of the North West Fur Company of Montreal. The
settlement had at different times been reinforced by retired
Hudson's Bay Company's officers and other employees. At
Portage la Prairie, about 60 miles up the Assiniboine from
the Red River, there had settled in the early sixties a consider-
able number of British Canadians from Ontario. Fort Garry,
near the confluence of the Red and Assiniboine rivers, was the
principal post of the " Great Company," and the residence of
its governor.
Shortly after the confederation of the provinces in 1867, an
arrangement was made for the transfer of the North West
Territory to the Dominion of Canada. The Hudson's Bay
Company, which had held sway over it for nearly 200 years,
agreed to annul their charter for a consideration, and the
transfer was fixed for December i, 1869. The Hon. Wijliam
6
THE METIS' REBELLION 7
McDougall was appointed Lieutenant Governor of the vast
country, and on September i he left Ottawa for the settlement
to assist in the transfer.
Survey parties had been sent by the Canadian government
to Fort Garry, and were already laying out the lands in sections
and townships. This greatly offended the French Metis, and
on October 10 a party of them, under the leadership of Louis
Riel, stopped the work of the surveyors. The chief of the
survey party appealed to Governor McTavish of the Hudson's
Bay Company, but without effect. Riel flatly refused to allow
the work to proceed, and the surveyors were withdrawn.
The French Metis then formed a provisional government,
with a man named John Bruce as president and Louis Riel as
secretary. The latter, being the stronger head and the better
educated of the two, soon assumed the leadership, and was
elected president. Soon after this government was formed an
armed force was sent to Scratching River, about 15 miles south
of Fort Garry, where a barricade was erected to oppose the
entrance of Mr. McDougall by the Pembina traiL The following
letter was sent forbidding him to enter.
Le Comity National des Metis de la Riviere Rouge intime a
M. Wm. McDougall I'ordre de ne pas entrer sur le territoire de
Nord Ouest sans une permission speciale de ce comite.
Disregarding the letter, Mr. McDougall kept on his way to
the Hudson's Bay post at Fort Pembina, inside the North
West Territory. Three days later an armed party of mounted
men arrived from Fort Garry, and sent into the post two of
their number to inform Mr. McDougall that by order of the
Metis' provisional government he must leave the North West
Territory by nine o'clock the next morning. This was en-
forced, and the Lieutenant Governor took up his residence in
the village of Pembina, on the American side of the border.
On November 24 Riel took forcible possession of Fort Garry
with its stores, food suppHes, arms, ammunition and money.
He made the post the base of operations, and fed and paid
himself and his men at the expense of the Hudson's Bay
Company.
On December i Mr. McDougall took formal possession of
8 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
the North West Territory in the name of the Canadian govern-
ment, and issued proclamations to the people. The first was
to the effect that he had been appointed Lieutenant Governor,
and the second confirmed all public officers in their appoint-
ments, except Governor McTavish. He gave Colonel Dennis,
chief surveyor, authority to raise a force to put down the
rebellion. This Colonel Dennis proceeded to do, taking
possession of the Stone Fort, 20 miles north of Fort Garry, and
placing some men there ; but at the sohcitation of some of the
leading persons of the settlement, he caused his men to lay
down their arms so that unnecessary bloodshed might be
avoided. Soon after this, Riel increased his force to about
500 men, and had the promise of many more if required. To
maintain them he continued to draw on the provisions and
funds of the Company.
With affairs at this pass, Mr. McDougall deemed it useless
to remain in the north west, and returned to Canada. In the
meantime two delegates were sent from Ottawa to conciliate
the rebels. A few days later, Mr. Donald A. Smith, better
known as Lord Strathcona, chief officer of the Hudson's Bay
Company in eastern Canada, followed as special commissioner
to inquire into and report upon the causes of the disturbances,
and to assist Governor McTavish. He arrived in the settle-
ment on December 27, and, gaining admission to Fort Garry,
met Riel and his councillors, and was soon, to all intents and
purposes, a prisoner. He found the British flag hauled down,
and the fleur de lys and shamrocks floating over Fort Garry.
He learned that the desire of several of the rebel leaders was
to bring about the annexation of the country by the United
States. However, he took the people of the settlement into
his confidence and succeeded in convening a mass meeting of
the settlers, where he explained to them the views of the
government. About 1000 men were present, and the con-
vention lasted for two days, January 19 and 20. It was held
in the open air, with the temperature about 25 below zero,
and resulted in 40 delegates being chosen. On February 10
it was decided to send three of their number to the government
at Ottawa with a bill of rights. These persons were Father
Richot, Judge Black and Alfred Scott, men whose names are
KIEL'S VIOLENCE 9
intimately connected with the history of the Red River
Settlement.
Riel burst into violence while the delegates were in session,
and placed a guard over Governor McTavish, who was confined
to his bed by a serious illness, threatening to have him shot
before midnight. He also arrested Dr. Cowan, chief officer
of the Hudson's Bay Company in the district, and placed him
in the fort with 60 prisoners whom he had confined some days
previously. He threatened to shoot Dr. Cowan if he did not
take the oath of allegiance to the provisional government. A
few days later he calmed down, and on February 10, the last
day that the 40 delegates were in session, he set the Governor
and Dr. Cowan at liberty, and on February 11 and 12 released
a few more of the prisoners, promising to set free the remainder
in a few days.
Before Riel had an opportunity to do so, however, the
people of the British Canadian settlement at Portage la Prairie
assembled and were joined by some hundreds of the old
settlers under Major Boulton, an ex-officer of the looth Royal
Canadian Regiment of the British Army. These men were
determined to take Fort Garry by assault. Major Boulton
endeavoured to dissuade them from the enterprise, as they
were very inferior in numbers to the rebels, and were not weU
supphed with arms or ammunition. Seeing, however, that
the people were determined to make the attempt to release
the prisoners, he decided to try to surprise Riel in the night,
the only plan which could have the slightest hope of success.
The enterprise was frustrated, however, by a blizzard which
sprang up on the night on which the attempt was to be made,
and they were unable, owing to the storm and deep snow, to
reach Fort Garry before dayhght. Finding that they could
not surprise the place, and being short of food, they departed
for their homes on February 17, but on their way to Portage
la Prairie, Major Boulton, Thomas Scott and 45 others passed
too near the fort, and were captured by Riel and placed in
confinement in the post.
Major Boulton was tried by court-martial on the i8th and
was sentenced to be shot at noon on the same day, but, on the
petition of some friends, the execution was postponed until
10 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
the igth. Poor Boulton was kept in suspense. He was given
the last rites of the church, and was fully prepared to die when
at the last moment Riel yielded to the earnest solicitations of
Mr. Donald Smith and pardoned him.
The elections in the Scotch and Enghsh parishes were held
on February 26, and on the 28th Riel promised to release the
prisoners who were captured with Major Boulton ; but on
March 4 he ordered the trial of Thomas Scott. The court-
martial was presided over by Ambrose Lepine, and Scott was
condemned to be shot on the same day. He was accused of
being unruly and insolent to the guards who were placed over
him, and Riel stated that an example must be made of him.
Mr. Donald Smith did all that a human being could do to turn
the rebel leader from his purpose, but without success. In.
his report he wrote : "It was now within a few minutes of
one o'clock and on entering the Governor's house the Rev. Mr.
Young joined me and said, ' It is now considerably past the
hour, I trust that you have succeeded,' ' No,' I said. ' For
God's sake go back to the poor man, for I fear the worst.' "
He left immediately and a few minutes after he had entered
the room in which the prisoner was confined, some guards
marched in and told Scott that his hour had come.
His dreadful position now for the first time flashed upon
him. Poor Scott turned to his fellow-prisoners and said
good-bye to them, and was led out accompanied by his faithful
and kind pastor, Mr. Young. His eyes were bandaged, and
when he was outside the gate on the east side of the fort near
the north west bastion, he asked Mr. Young where he should
place himself, and then knelt down on the snow, facing north,
the firing party of six facing south. At the signal they fired,
and three bullets passed through poor Scott's body. He fell,
but as he still showed signs of life, the commander of the
firing party drew his revolver and fired a shot into his head,
the bullet entering the eye and passing round the skull. Mr.
Young then asked for the remains, so that they could be
interred in the Presbyterian burying-ground, but he was
refused. The Anghcan Bishop also asked, with the same
result. The body was taken into the fort, confined in a rough
pine-box, and left for the night in one of the bastions. Before
A COLD-BLOODED MURDER ii
daylight, it is said, the murdered man was heard to groan, and
a guard was sent in to finish the bloody work. It was
supposed then that the remains of poor Scott were buried
within the walls of the fort, but it has since been clearly proved
that this is not so.
On the way to his execution Scott prayed fervently and
continued to do so until he was unconscious, and he said, as
he was led down the steps, " This is a cold-blooded murder."
The news of this atrocious crime produced a great sensation
in eastern Canada, particularly in the province of Ontario.
Public meetings were held all over the province, and the
government was urged to send an expedition to restore the
authority of the Queen and punish Riel and his companions
in crime. As soon as the three delegates from Fort Garry
arrived in Ottawa, two of them were arrested as accessories
before the fact to the murder of Thomas Scott, but as nothing
could be proved against them they were released.
At this crisis, Mr. Donald Smith recommended that a
military expedition should be sent as soon as possible in the
spring. His suggestion was approved, and it was decided to
dispatch a force of regulars and Canadian militia under the
command of Colonel (afterwards Field-Marshal Viscount)
Wolseley, who had served many years in Canada. His
appointment was very popular with the Canadian people, and
as he had commanded large camps at Thorold on the Niagara
frontier and at La Prairie near Montreal, he was well known
to the Canadian militia and thoroughly understood conditions
in the country.
The route chosen for the expedition was that formerly used
by the Great North West Fur Company before its amalgama-
tion with the Hudson's Bay Company ; but nothing larger
than a birch-bark canoe had been employed for the first
200 miles westward from Lake Superior. The route had been
considered impracticable for boats. Troops had previously
been sent to Fort Garry by Hudson's Bay, the Nelson River
and Lake Winnipeg.
On May i I received a message from Lt.-Col. Alexander
Mackenzie of the 35th Regiment to the effect that Captain D.
H. McMillan would be at Barrie, co. Simcoe, at four o'clock,.
12 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
and that if I cared to go to Red River he would give me a
place. I had previously held a commission in the 35th, had
organized and drilled a company of the 31st Grey Regiment,
and had obtained from the Military School field officers'
certificates of qualification for cavalry and infantry, but I had
resigned my commission.
Accordingly I joined, and was pleased to find myself a
member of No. 4 Company ist Ontario Rifles,^ under the
command of Captain McMillan, with Lieutenant N. Kennedy
and Ensign Stewart Mulvey as the subalterns. We were
already well drilled, but as yet the N.C.O.'s were only " acting,"
and as it was necessary that all should have officers' certifi-
cates, the order came out one afternoon for all men with
Military School certificates to fall out to the right, but I did
not do so, as I had made up my mind to serve as a private.
The men were very kind and cheerful companions, always
ready to do a good turn for a comrade, so that as far as experi-
ence went I was better off without chevrons and learned how
to appreciate the trials of other men to an extent that I should
never have been able to do had I been promoted.
On May 16 my company arrived at Sault St. Marie, and
marched over to the camp ground near the old Hudson's Bay
Company's quarters. This place was directly opposite Fort
Brady on the United States side of the river, and as at first all
the troops and supplies had to be brought over the Sault
portage, we were stationed there to prevent any interruption
by the Fenians who were then active in the United States.
At this time, through a foolish misunderstanding, none of
our vessels were allowed to pass through the canal on the
American side of the river, but later on this was settled amicably
on the protest of the Governor General through the British
ambassador at Washington. The ships were then permitted
^ The Ontario Rifles consisted of 7 companies for service and one at
the depot, Kingston, Ontario, and was commanded by Lt.-Col. S. P.
Jarvis, a Canadian of the British Army. The battalion earned the
admiration of Colonel Wolseley by its steadiness on parade and aptitude
under instruction. The appearance of the corps on parade was very
striking, the rank and file being remarkable for their physique ; the
flank men of the companies were almost gigantic, the right-hand man
of No. 2 being 6 feet 8 inches in height, and perfectly proportioned.
COLONEL WOLSELEY ARRIVES 13
to go through with ordinary supplies, the troops and contra-
band of war going across the Canadian portage. Since then a
splendid canal, far superior to those opposite, has been con-
structed over the portage road, and a well-built, bustling town
of many thousands of inhabitants, with fine factories and other
works, has taken the place of the village which at that date
compared very unfavourably with the pretty and clean
American town opposite. We did not realize then that we
were the pioneers of the Western Canada of to-day.
On May 23 Colonel Wolseley arrived at the Sault. The
troops and military stores were landed at the wharf and the
Chicora passed up, the first to get through the canal after
consent had been given, although she had brought the horses,
boats and ordinary stores with her. The screw steamer
Shickaluna also arrived, accompanied by the schooners Pandora
and Orion. Colonel Wolseley and the troops embarked on
the Chicora and with the fleet left for Thunder Bay, but,
much to our disappointment, we were left behind.^
The American troops at Fort Brady consisted of two com-
panies of infantry, and I am pleased to say that the greatest
hcirmony existed between us, the American soldiers often
coming to see us after our work was lightened by the ships
being allowed to pass the canal.
» The force consisted of detachments of the Royal Artillery, Royal
Engineers, Army Hospital Corps and Army Service Corps and seven
companies of the ist Battalion 60th Rifles. There were also two
battalions of militia. The daily rations issued to N.C.O.'s and men
were : i lb. biscuit or i J lbs. soft bread ; i lb. salt pork or i| lbs. fresh
meat ; 2 ozs. sugar ; i oz. tea ; J oz. salt, when fresh meat was used ;
J pint beans or ^ lb. preserved potatoes ; \ oz. pepper. Tobacco and
soap were provided by the Control Department for purchase by the
troops. In consideration of the special nature of the service, the
Secretary of State for War sanctioned the issue free of cost to all
N.C.O.'s and men of i serge frock, i pair serge trousers, i pair outside
boots, 2 pairs worsted socks, 2 flann6l shirts, i housewife, i woollen
nightcap, i cap cover with peak, i piece mosquito netting, i clasp
knife, i tin cup, i tin plate. There was an extraordinary field allow-
ance for six months for all officers, who, however, were not allowed under
any circumstances to take private civil servants with them. They
were permitted a limited amount of mess stores and cooking utensils
as far as Fort William, Beyond that place each officer was to be
allowed 90 lbs. weight only, to include bedding, cooking and mess
utensils. All company officers were to be armed with rifles, and to
carry 60 rounds of ammunition like the men.
14 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
We were at the Sault longer than any company in the
expedition, and were glad to join the others. We arrived at
Thunder Bay on June 13. The place where the troops dis-
embarked had been named " Prince Arthur's Landing " by
Colonel Wolseley when he arrived, in honour of Prince Arthur^
who was then serving in the Rifle Brigade at Montreal. On
our way up Lake Superior we had a very narrow escape from
shipwreck. We were saved by the presence of mind of Harry
Stavely, one of our privates, who had served in the navy for a
number of years. He was sentry on the fore-part of the upper
•deck in front of the wheel house, when, in the midst of the
dense fog through which the Chicora was ploughing at an early
hour of the morning, he saw a large rocky island looming up
before the vessel and only a short distance ahead, whereupon
he gave the word " Hard a port ! " The helmsman obeyed,
and the Chicora passed the rock, missing it by only a few feet.
If a landsman had been on sentry we should most likely have
been wrecked and all hands lost.
The day after our arrival we were set to work on a stockade
fort which had been under construction for some weeks. It
•consisted of a strong palisade with a ditch, and a magazine was
built inside with small bastions at the corners. Employment
on this was the only task which seemed to be distasteful to the
men. Canadians dislike the pick and shovel, and if they can
get anyone else to use them, they are never to be found digging ;
any other occupation, no matter how severe, seems to be
preferable.
Sometimes in the evening, when the day's work was done,
Colonel Wolseley provided a few boats, and encouraged races,
and generally acted as starter on these occasions. In addition
to the rowing there were competitions in hornpipes and fancy
dancing on a platform erected in the vicinity of the canteen of
the 60th. Foot-races and other sports were also indulged in
after a hard day's work, but, as a rule, the majority were
•quite content to be spectators of the various events.
The appearance of the country in the vicinity of Prince
Arthur's Landing, now Port Arthur, was most forbidding.
For some time before the troops landed and probably several
1 The present Duke of Connaught.
STRICT SABBATARIANS 15
years previously, the forest for many miles had been swept by
fire. Enormous quantities of fine timber had been destroyed,
and thousands of acres were covered by the blackened trunks
of trees. Several stretches were still burning when the rain
began in June. These fires had destroyed many of the culverts
and bridges over the small creeks on the Dawson Road, as the
road to Shebandowan Lake had been named.
More than 700 voyageurs, whites and Indians, had been hired
in different parts of Ontario and Quebec, selected on account
of their great skiU in handling boats, canoes and rafts of timber
in the great rapids of the St. Lawrence, Ottawa, St. Maurice,
Saguenay and other rivers. These men were accustomed to
bush work ; their winter employment being cutting, sawing
and hewing timber for the Enghsh and home markets. There
was no work in the woods to which they could not turn their
hands, and as they landed they were sent up the road, and
were soon hard at work. A few of them, but very few, gave
trouble because of their objection to work on Sundays, but when
matters were explained to them they accepted the situation
and laboured with a will, and a better lot of men it would be
impossible to find. They were a motley crowd ; and more than
half were Indians, or had Indian blood in their veins ; the
whites were Scotch or French Canadians. The Iroquois took
first place for skill in navigating boats and canoes in surf
waters. It was thought at first that the voyageurs and
soldiers would not understand one another, and consequently
not work well together, that the officers, especially those of
the regulars, would not know how to handle men unaccustomed
to unquestioning obedience, but as a matter of fact the officers
got on admirably with them, and the men anticipated every
wish and combined with the soldiers to make a success of the
■expedition.
On the day the headquarters of the Ontario Rifles dis-
-embarked at Prince Arthur's Landing, Colonel Wolseley,
dissatisfied with the progress being made by the land transport
in hauling the boats by road, made up his mind to try the water
route to Shebandowan, and detailed Captain Young, of the
60th Rifles, with his company and the proper complement of
voyageurs and Indians to make the attempt. Six boats were
l6 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
taken with two voyageurs to each, to steer and guide, and a
crew of soldiers to track or tow them along the rivers.
From the mouth of the Kaministiquia to the Matawin
bridge are 12 miles of quiet water and 33 miles of rapids, with
now and then short navigable sections. Boulders of all shapes
and sizes and sharp rocks set on edge were encountered along
that part of the stream, which could be traversed with little
or no risk to men, but which was very dangerous for boats.
Great care had to be taken to prevent damage to keels and
bottoms, and the labour of getting the boats safely over the
portages and tracking them up the stream was exceedingly
trying. None but men of strong physique were of use here.
From the Matawin bridge to the Oskondagee Creek by land
was 12 miles. To a point known as Young's Landing it was
navigable, but from here on there was a succession of rapids,
the most difficult on the route, and a deep canyon with per-
pendicular walls, through which the current dashed at a great
speed. The boats had to be taken up this part of the river for
8 miles. These rapids end at Calderon's Landing, and this
place was connected with the main road by a bush trail two
miles long, called Browne's Lane, after an officer of the corps.
By this trail suppHes were hauled from the Matawin bridge to
the Landing and transported by boats to Ward's Landing.
From Calderon's Landing to the Oskondagee the river was
navigable for lightly laden boats, but the current was swift and
the work severe, the men having to track along the high rocks,
sometimes poHng or wading in the swift and shallow water up to
the armpits. From the Oskondagee to Ward's Landing, over
4 miles, the boats and supphes had to be taken by waggon.
The total distance by water from Fort William to the
Oskondagee is about 70 miles, and prior to this expedition
no boats had ever passed up. The bark canoe was the
only craft considered suitable by the Great Fur Company's
voyageurs, and with good reason. Mr. Dawson reported
unfavourably of the route on account of the danger of damaging
the clinker-built boats, but Mr. Maclntyre, of the Hudson's
Bay Company, was of the opinion that we could make use of
the route, though with difficulty. The torrents of rain which
fell during the time the expedition was bringing up the boats
THE METHOD OF PORTAGING 17
certainly made it much easier, for, although the river was
swifter on that account, the boats avoided many rocks which in
ordinary seasons were uncovered, and would have damaged
them. Even so the difficulties of that trip up the Matawin
were stupendous. It was hard enough on the soldiers, but it
was still worse for the voyageurs, who were kept continually
coming and going until the last boat had passed up.
When Captain Young started up the Kaministiquia on June 3,
rain was falling daily and the rivers were rapidly becoming
torrents. The Kaministiquia, fed by smaller streams, rose
6 feet in one night. There were 7 portages to pass as far as
the Matawin, one of them, at the Kakabeka Falls, being nearly
a mile long and the fall no feet. The heavy boats had to be
dragged up the hill at an angle of 45 degrees, and the load
carried upon the men's backs over the portage. The rain fell
continuously, while the black flies worried the men during the
day and the sand flies and mosquitoes at night.
The method of bringing the boats across the portages was
by skids (short poles), cut and laid across the track at intervals
of a few feet. When the boats were ready the long towline
was secured to the forefoot or stem and passed over double to
a ring bolt on the kelson, back again to the forefoot and there
secured. Then a man would take the end of the towline over
his shoulder to lead in the right direction ; two of the most
powerful of the crew, generally voyageurs, placed themselves
at the bow with their backs against the side of the boat, seizing
the towline where it passed above the stem, and braced them-
selves, while two more of the strongest men were at the stern.
The rest strung themselves along the towhne or supported the
sides of the boat by holding the gunwales. Those on the
towhne placed themselves in pairs or half sections, dividing the
distance to the end of the line, fastening their tumpUnes
(portage straps) to the rope, passing the flat part over the
outward shoulder, and hauled on the rope, bearing outwards
a little. As the boat went along the men at the bows lifted the
stem over obstacles, such as stumps, stones or high skids, and
in this manner they crossed the portage.
This was hard work, but drawing the boats across was mere
child's play compared to the labour of carrying the stores and
i8 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
tracking or poling up the torrent. Even on the few navigable
stretches the current was often much too swift to admit of
rowing or even poling ; consequently tracking had to be
resorted to in many places. When at this work the voyageurs
were in the bow and stern of the boat, each with a pole to keep
it out from the rocky shore or to steer clear of boulders. The
remainder of the men took hold of the line, one of them leading
it the best way over land or along the shore, while the rest
passed the line over their shoulders. Often when the water
was too deep near the shore they ascended the bank, the leader
passing the rope in front of the trees while the others hauled
on the line as was most convenient, running along and passing
one another when necessary. As a rule wading was preferred
to taking to the high banks. Frequently, owing to the swift-
ness and depth of the water, one would miss his footing and
would have to hang on to the towline whilst the other men
steadied themselves until he had regained his feet.
Captain Young and his party reached the Matawin bridge
in 7 days from Fort William. The voyageurs reported that
they had agreed to go as far as, but no farther than, the
Matawin, and were sent back by road and tug boat to Fort
William. They stated before leaving that it was impossible
to take the boats higher up the river, but a few days later
Captain Young made the attempt without voyageurs. He
took only one boat, and after great difficulty reached the gorge
on the canyon already described. He returned, convinced that
it was useless to try to bring the boats up further by water.
It has been stated by Captain Huyshe that no boats were
taken up that part of the river, but this is an error difficult to
account for, as all were brought up the bad stretch and on to
the Oskondagee Creek. Mr. Dawson, who was in charge of
the transport, etc., was much annoyed when he was informed
that they could not be taken up, but took immediate steps to
prove that with voyageurs it could be done.
There is no doubt, however, that the difficulty was such that
not one man in a hundred could have succeeded. It was left
to Mr. Donald McKellar, a Highland Scotch Canadian,
and now a leading citizen of Fort William, Ontario, to
prove that it could be done. There were several brothers
THE McKELLARS OF THUNDER BAY 19
McKellar living at Thunder Bay, all experienced in the rivers
and forests, with a thorough knowledge of the capabilities of
the Indian voyageurs. Mr. Dawson knew them well and sent
a messenger for Mr. John McKellar, and when he got a reply
that John was not at home, he sent back the messenger to get
any McKellar to come to him without delay, as he had very
important business under consideration. Mr. Donald McKellar,
at the time the only one at home, went in to see him and was
told how things were at the Matawin. Mr. Dawson said :
*' I want you to go up to the Matawin station and get the boats
up the Matawin and Shebandowan rivers to the Oskondagee.
Take with you a crew of local Indians from the mission at
Fort WiUiam. Here is a letter to the foremen along the line,
authorizing them to give you any men, boats or supplies you
may want ; see that you get the best, so that you will be sure
to open up this route." Mr. McKellar suggested taking
Iroquois and Sault St. Marie Indians along with the local
Indians, and selected ten Fort William Indians, ten Iroquois
and ten Sault St. Marie Indians. When they arrived at the
Matawin he chose three boats. While he was fitting them up
for the trip. Captain Young, who was encamped on the opposite
bank of the river, came across to where they were working and
said to him : " You can save yourself all this trouble, for there
are not men enough in the expedition to take the boats up
this river."
At four o'clock next morning Mr. McKellar started with
ten men to each boat, he taking the lead with the Fort WiUiam
Indians. Mr. T. A. P. Towers followed with the Sault St,
Marie Indians and Captain Pritchard with the Iroquois brought
up the rear. At nine o'clock in the evening they arrived
at Ward's Landing on the Oskondagee, which was their
destination. Captain Ward, of the 60th Rifles, was encamped
there and rushed down to meet McKellar and his party. He
was delighted and surprised, thinking it impossible to get the
boats up the river so far. The feasibility of the route from
the Matawin bridge was now assured, and it proved a great
success. The news soon spread, and there was great rejoicing
along the line, for the success of the trip removed a load from
the minds of all concerned.
20 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
When, on June 20, Colonel Wolseley inspected our regiment
he expressed himself very much pleased with the way we turned
out. It looked odd on these parades to see our officers armed
with rifles, but they are certainly a more useful weapon than
the sword. A few hours after the parade the Arctic came in
with the last of the detachment which had been at the Sault
St. Marie, These were the last troops to land, and they came
at a time when the thunder had for many weeks rolled round
the vast solitudes where the white man was practically
unknown. The rain was almost incessant, and the road was in
constant need of repair. Bridges were swept away and trans-
port trains cut off, so that they could neither advance nor
retire. The ingenuity of everyone was taxed to meet the
situation. The boats were going up the Kaministiquia, and
large parties of men were posted at intervals to repair damages
to the road. When they had finished one tedious job, knap-
sacks were strapped on, rifles grasped, and the company moved
on to the next place needing repair. This road work was the
hardest task in my experience in this land of severe trials
and strenuous pioneering, but it was carried out under the
direction of one of the most capable of commanders, whose
example and tactful treatment of his troops inspired them to
face cheerfully and remove every difficulty in their way.
One of the brigades of boats sent up the Kaministiquia left
on June 14, under the command of Captain (afterwards Sir)
Redvers Buller, who was soldiering for the love of it, and setting
his men an example of self-denial not often seen. He was a
great favourite in Canada and the Old Country to the day of
his death. On arriving he reported :
The boats, nine in number, are arranged according to merit
and capacity, durability, and speed; 2 white clinker-built
boats marked R. Abbott, 2 large carv^el-built, 2 small grey
ditto ; 2 marked T.S., painted grey inside, and one clinker-
built from a maker in Barrie. The carvel-built are undoubtedly
the strongest, but their weight renders them liable to rough
treatment in portaging. They have no well holes, and there-
fore carry a large quantity of water, which it is impossible to
bale out, A large quantity of the cargo consisted of flour in
barrels, the hoops of which not being nailed on, came off
during the rough usages which they received in portaging.
"ON TO FORT GARRY " 21
The axes supplied as camp equipage were so blunt that they
were worse than useless.
The felling axes to which Captain Buller alluded were the
old army ordnance pattern, and were served out to us although
quite useless. As it was impossible to do any work with them,
they were condemned and the excellent Canadian feUing axe
was supplied instead.
The Algoma arrived at Prince Arthur's Landing on the
night of June 29 with Lt.-Gen. Sir James Lindsay ^ on board.
He landed at once, and went over to Fort William, ^ the solitary
Hudson's Bay post under the direction of Mr. Maclntyre. A
tremendous storm arose which forced the general and his
staff to return to the Landing, It was the worst we had yet
experienced ; the thunder and lightning were incessant ; the
road and every hollow were rivers of muddy water rushing
down to the lake, and all work at the Landing had to cease
for the day. Everything seemed to have conspired against us
to cause our discomfiture ; but nothing disturbed the troops,
officers and men were united to push on to the great west.
*' On to Fort Garry I " was the word. We left Prince Arthur's
Landing on June 30.
1 Commander-in-Chief of the forces in British North America,
* This post took its name not from one of the Royal Family as most
people suppose, but from Mr, William McGillveray, a leading officer of
the Great North-West Fur Company, by whom it was built before the
amalgamation with the " Great Company,"
CHAPTER III
Colonel Wolseley's example' — Portaging. — A ship's loa.d— Monsieur
Baril — Dissensions among the rebels- — ^The Winnipeg river—
" Anak "• — An exciting moment — The Stone Fort' — Fort Garry. —
Winnipeg- — The success of the expedition — Tributes to the troops
■ — An unfortunate incident — Smallpox in the west — Its rapid
spread — I am promoted to corporal — A tough lot — Trouble in the
barracks — Drills and " Ladies' Parades,"
FROM the day of his arrival, Colonel Wolseley had been
incessantly on the move. Had the men required it they
could not have had a better example. "UTien the first
brigade of boats started for McNeill's Landing on
Shebandowan Lake, Colonel Wolseley was there to see that all
went well. The i8th found us still at Calderon's Landing with
little to do. The next day we prepared to make a final start
and loaded our boats that we might be off early in the morning.
The boats moved in regular order. Captain McMillan in
front, then Lieutenant Kennedy, Ensign Mulvey, Sergeant
Doidge and Major Macleod, The Flying Dutchman bringing up
the rear. This was the worst boat in the lot, two feet shorter
than any, and at least a foot wider in the beam. I was one of
her crew, and had something to do with suggesting her name,
which was received with derision, as it required nearly twice
as much effort to move her through the water as any other boat
in our brigade, except, perhaps, La Belle Manitoba, an im-
mense boat navigated by Major Macleod, which gave him much
trouble on all the portages, and in rapids was very clumsy and
difficult to steer.
Our voyageurs were white men. The bowman did not last
long, but the steersman. Big Neil Mc Arthur from near Owen
Sound, was a success ; he was a splendid man, tall, strong,
good-tempered and all that we could desire. None of us were
novices at handling boats under any circumstances, which
was fortunate. By the time we reached Kasheboiwe portage
22
OUR SPLENDID OFFICERS 23
we had developed splendid appetites for our dinners, and
eagerly disposed of our rations of pork, beans, hard tack and
strong black tea, of which Colonel Wolseley saw that there
was an unlimited quantity, a very good substitute for beer or
spirits, of which there were none. There were many of Mr.
Dawson's voyageurs, boatmen and axemen busy on the
portage, and four carts had been provided to assist in trans-
porting the loads, but they proved to be of little service to us
after all.
The work of portaging was done with a rush, the officers
and men running back after depositing their loads, all working
alike. Major Macleod, a tall, graceful men, was the first of
all of us to shoulder a barrel of pork, a heavy load, each barrel
weighing 200 lbs. The flour and biscuit barrels weighed
100 lbs., the arm-chests 200 lbs., and the beans 100 lbs., the
hghtest loads being the boxes of ammunition, 500 rounds in
each, which weighed 64 lbs. The arm-chests were the most
awkward burdens. ^
On July 29 we reached Baril portage. We found it very
rough, with a high hill in the centre like a hog's back or barrel,
but it did not get its name from that. It is derived from an
incident which occurred in the early days of the fur trade.
Two brigades owned by rival traders or corporations were on
* The loads in every boat weighed nearly 4,000 lbs., made up of—
Biscuits, barrels 8 each
Flour,
6 „
Pork.
8 ,.
Sugar, „
Tea, chests
1 .,
Beans, sacks
2
Potatoes, cases 2 „
Ammunition boxes, 2 each
Arm chests.
t each
Ball pouches,
Tents, I "
10 rds.
large, 50/ds.
Soap, cases, i
Candles, boxes, i
Boat nails, i
keg
Mosquito oil.
I bottle
lbs.
lbs.
100
800
100
600
200
1600
80
80
50
50
100
200
50
100
64
128
200
200
75
75
50
50
25
25
10
10
3,9i8
24 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
their way west in bark canoes laden with goods. One brigade
was a few days ahead of the other and had on board of one of
the canoes a barrel of rum, which the leader feared might be
taken from them by the rear brigade if it caught up, as it was
stronger in numbers. He therefore caused a grave to be dug
and the barrel of rum carefully and decently interred, and a
hewn headboard placed, on which was inscribed, A la memoire
de Monsieur Baril. The rear brigade saw the grave and
thought that some good voyageur had been buried there, and
as they were pious fellows after all, some of them offered
prayers for the repose of the soul of Monsieur Baril. On the
return trip of their rivals his remains were exhumed and
his health drunk with many a laugh at the success of the
trick.
The Deux Rivieres portage was one of the worst on the
route. It was 750 yards in length, and there was a large
hollow in the centre which had been bridged by Ignace, Colonel
Wolseley's favourite voyageur, and some of his men. Two
tall pines had been thrown across the hollow and skids laid on
notches to enable the boats to be dragged up the slope over
the ravine. This was nicknamed " Jacob's Ladder."
The advance of the expedition arrived at Fort Frances on
August 4, and the last of the brigades of the 6oth passed on
the 7th. Lieutenant (afterwards Sir William) Butler, who had
gone incognito to Fort Garry via the United States to find out
how matters stood in that settlement, met the commander of
the expedition at the outlet of Rainy Lake, three miles above
the fort. He had seen Riel and had the latest news from
Fort Garry. It was far from reassuring to those who desired
peace ; both parties were at daggers drawn and afraid of the
Indians, who at that time were very powerful, but always
loyal and peaceful if justly treated.
After we arrived at Fort Frances, the crew of The Flying
Dutchman exchanged her for a shghtly damaged but much
lighter boat, which was soon repaired, and this addition to our
fleet we named The Girl of the Period. On Saturday, the 13th,
we loaded our boats with frenzied eagerness, lest on the
arrival of our colonel next day we might be ordered to remain
behind. We received no orders, but there seemed to be some-
HOW TO RUN A RAPID 25
thing in the wind, and as soon as each boat was loaded it
departed with all speed and was quickly beyond recall.
When we reached Rat portage we found orders for us
regarding the navigation of the Winnipeg River, which we
were now to descend, and here we had news of the leading
brigades and heard that Colonel Wolseley in crossing the lake
without a guide had missed his way in the maze of many
thousands of lovely islands. It was a difficult task to under-
take, and it was indeed fortunate that he happened to meet
some Indians, who guided him to Rat portage. He had sailed
round the lake for two days, had waited for us the same
length of time, and, hurrying on to overtake the leading
brigades, had been gone only two hours when we arrived.
The navigation of the Winnipeg River by boat or canoe is
one of the most difficult in the world. In its course to Lake
Winnipeg it falls many hundreds of feet by a succession of
cataracts, most of which are of a very difficult and dangerous
character. The portages on the route enabled the force to
pass a number of those places, but many rapids had to be run
and many risks taken before we arrived at Lake Winnipeg.
On approaching a rapid which has to be run, the bowman
always stands up in his place and steers, long paddle in hand,
braced against the stem, his keen and practised eye on the
rushing water. The voyageur in the stern, who has shipped a
long oar in the stern-rowlock, a ring securely fastened so that
it cannot jump out, keeps the boat from swinging in the
current. Down the torrent the craft rushes, propelled by the
desperate efforts of the six oarsmen. They row as for their
lives so that there may be steerage way for the bowman who,
by skilful use of his paddle, brings the vessel safely through
the rocks and whirlpools of the passage. The boat seems to
spring beneath its crew, the speed being so great that the oars
seem hke feathers in their hands, no pressure of the water
being felt on the blades as the boat careers down the incline.
At a very early hour the next morning we were at work and
had our boats and their cargoes across before breakfast. The
ground was rough and stony but level, and on this portage we
saw the heaviest load carried. One of the Company's guides,
a tall, dark, and powerful-looking voyageur, with a full black
26 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
beard and moustache, hearing of the exploits of the Iroquois
and others in our brigades, was anxious to show what he could
do, so he carried two barrels of pork and looo rounds of
ammunition across. The load had to be carefuUy secured and
placed so that he could stand well under it. The weight was
528 lbs., but the burden was an awkward one and nothing to
be gained by it except to show the man's great strength,
which was patent to everyone as he moved quickly under the
load without any apparent distress. Many heavy burdens
were carried by the officers and men ; nearly every boat had
several who carried their barrel of pork or arm-chest of 200 lbs.
without any difficulty. Many conveyed a barrel of pork and
a sack of beans on their backs as one load. I always carried
my share of pork with either my knapsack or another pack,
of equal weight added. One of the officers of the 6oth
Ensign St. Maur (now the Duke of Somerset), a tall, handsome
young man, nicknamed " Anak," because of his great strength,
frequently packed two barrels of pork on his back, 400 lbs.,
and Captain Redvers BuUer always took at least 200 lbs. and
sometimes 300 lbs. at a trip. Everyone of us, on account of
the training given by the heavy work, became much stronger
than when he started, although he was then in good condition.
At the rapid called Le Grand Descharge we met with what
at one time promised to be a serious mishap. Big Mike, the
powerful and skilful Iroquois, although of Major Macleod's
boat, took the bow of ours also, and Captain McMillan, who
had remained at the summit to see his boats safely through,
came in our craft, which was the last, and sat in the stern
sheets near Big Neil McArthur. I had the stroke oar (we took
turns at it), and, as we approached the crest, set the pace, but
just as we passed over it, rowing our best, Neil's oar snapped
Hke a pipe stem and the boat swung into the tremendous
waves on our right, rolHng and pitching over them, and hurling
several of the crew from their oars into the bottom of the boat.
Captain McMillan tried to hold my oar down in the rowlock to
enable me to row, but it was impossible ; we were quite helpless,
and death stared us in the face as we surged past the rocks
and whirlpools at a great speed, while Big Mike stood towering
in the bow wielding a heavy oar as if it were a light paddle.
ARRIVAL AT FORT GARRY 27
His long hair streamed in the wind, his coal black eyes glared
at the angry waters, and he handled his oar with such effect
that the boat came safely through, landing us far below, and
his compatriots on both sides of the Descharge, who, with our
comrades of the brigade, were watching the outcome with
great anxiety, joined him in wild whoops and shrieks of
triumphant laughter.
At Fort Alexander, which we reached at sundown on the
25th, we found Mr. Donald Smith with news of the Red River
Settlement. Colonel Wolseley and staff had arrived on the
20th and were met by Mr. Donald Smith, who had come there
for the purpose. Lt.-Col. Feilden and the whole of the regular
troops had reached there on the i8th, and on Sunday, the 21st,
they had left for Fort Garry in 50 boats via Lake Winnipeg.
We were off early on the morning of the 27th, and the next
day as we ploughed our way up the Red River numbers of
the Scotch settlers and Indians came to the bank to welcome
us to the " Great Lone Land " and the church bells rang
merrily as we passed on.
The brigades arrived at Lower Fort Garry, " The Stone
Fort," early in the afternoon. Colonel Wolseley, Mr. Donald
Smith and Lieutenant Heneage, R.E., had been there that day
to inspect the fort and arrange for the accommodation of the
2nd Quebec Rifles for the coming winter. Major Wainwright
and his two brigades of the Ontario Rifles had passed up at
noon on the 26th. We left Lower Fort Garry early next
morning and tracked up the St. Andrew's rapids. Numbers
of people came, as on the previous day, to welcome us as we
rowed along. We arrived at Fort Garry at sunset on August 29,
just 38 days from Shebandowan, and encamped on the level,
grassy stretch of plain between the mouth of the Assiniboine
and the fort.
When we arrived Colonel Wolseley and staff were busy
making arrangements for the return of the regular troops and
the retention of the Canadians as a garrison until the following
spring. The Ontario Rifles were to be quartered at Fort
Garry and the Quebec Rifles in the Stone Fort. The colonel
and his officers were the guests of Mr. Donald Smith in his
commodious quarters at Fort Garry.
28 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
The advanced troops had landed on the 23rd on the left
bank of the Red River, six miles by land and nine by the
river from Fort Garry, with the intention of moving upon the
fort the next morning. But a violent gale sprang up, accom-
panied by torrents of rain, which continued all night, making
the roads nearly impassable, and the commander was obliged to
-change his plans and take to the boats. The scouts sent into
Winnipeg during the night brought the information that the
rebel flag still floated over Fort Garry that evening and that
Riel evidently meant to fight.
Early the next morning the force landed about two miles
north of Winnipeg and advanced on Fort Garry, going round
the west side of the village, but although guns were seen pro-
truding from the embrasures in the bastions and the gate on
the north side was shut, there were no signs of life, and the rebel
flag had been hauled down. Scouts were sent round the fort
at a gallop and found the south gate open ; Riel, Lepine and
O'Donoghue were seen escaping over the bridge of boats in
front of the fort. We then took possession of the place,
hoisted the Union Jack, fired a salute and gave three cheers
for the Queen.
Fort Garry, which has taken such a prominent place in the
history of the west, was originally given the proud name of
Fort Gibraltar. It was erected in 1806, and destroyed in
1816. In 1822, when the Hudson's Bay and North West
Companies were amalgamated it was rebuilt and named Fort
■Garry. In 1835 it was rebuilt in stone, running 280 feet east
and west and 240 feet north and south. There were circular
bastions at each corner with embrasures for guns and loop-
holes for muskets. The walls were about 12 feet in height
and had a wooden banquette round the inside to enable the
defenders to fire over them.
In 1850 a second part was extended 300 feet north with
double walls of oak bolted together about two feet apart,
filled in with broken stone, mixed with earth. The foundation
of the new addition was of stone, the banquette was continued,
and a north gateway of stone was built with a platform and
embrasures for gims. This was no doubt the gateway on the
north side of the stone portion of the fort, and was shifted
A FAMOUS OLD FORT 29
when the addition was constructed. I have no authority for
this, but it seems to me that there must have been such a
gateway for the stone fort, and that it is only natural that the
same material should be used. The south gateway of the fort
was but a short distance from the Assiniboine and had no gun
platforms ; the gates were of heavy oak timber, clamped with
spikes. The buildings inside the fort consisted of a store, or
sales-shop, on the east close to the south-east bastion. A
large house, two stories in height with a stoep, or platform,
along the front of it, and used as officers' quarters, stood in
the centre of the older part of the fort.
The residence of the Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company
faced the north gate, a short distance from it. At the west
side of the fort, not far from the wall, there stood four long
buildings, each two stories in height and large enough to
accommodate 100 soldiers. Three of these were handed over
to the Ontario Rifles as soon as they were put in order, and
behind the doors of each room the roll-boards of the last
troops who had come in by Hudson's Bay were still hanging.
'On one of them was entered the name of Bugler Coyne, our
sergeant-major I
The south-east bastion was now in use as a guard-room and
the others were filled with miUtary stores left by the former
occupants of the fort ; these were Brown Bess muskets,
bayonets, kegs of bullets, powder and shot. Other buildings
were on the north-east side of the fort, and during our stay
were used as commissary stores. There were a few small
buildings in secluded nooks. As soon as the public works
department oflficers arrived a large building was erected
between the front gate and the south-east bastion, and con-
tained the orderly-room, sergeants' mess, library, etc.
Outside the fort communication with the south was by
means of a bridge of scows and a ferry over the Assiniboine ;
both were in constant use until winter set in. Large numbers
of creaking Red River carts, without a particle of iron in their
construction or grease for their axles, came in every day from
St, Cloud, Minnesota, the nearest rail point in the United States,
laden with merchandise for the Hudson's Bay Company and
the merchants of Winnipeg, The United States points were
30 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
reached by the steamer International, a flat-bottomed river
boat propelled by a stern wheel, which went to the highest
point navigable on the Red River. Running in opposition to
her were flat boats, which brought in flour, butter and eggs ;
when their loads were discharged they were broken up and
sold, the lumber bringing good prices.
The Winnipeg of that day was situated about half a mile
north of Fort Garry and consisted of about forty houses of
every shape and size lining the Stone Fort trail for about
half a mile. That old road is now the beautiful main street
of the city of Winnipeg. The first house from the fort was
that of the Rev. Dr. Young, the truly Christian pastor of the
little Methodist church. There was one fairly good hotel kept
by a Mr. Davis, who was, later on, premier of the new province
of Manitoba. Nine stores, three chemist shops, one saddlery,
one hardware store, and, of course, several saloons, with such
names as "Hell's Gates," "The Red Saloon," etc., were
situated in the village.
The village of St. Boniface lay on the right bank of the Red
River, and was the residence of Bishop Tache, a prelate
of the Oblate order ; his residence and the cathedral were for
that time very fine buildings, and there were several com-
fortable houses and a convent. The cathedral was well
attended by the Metis, large numbers of whom could be seen
going to and from it every Sunday. Each would be respect-
ably dressed in the costume of the country, the men in long
blue coats with bright brass buttons, gay sashes, and fur caps,
which would now be worth looo dollars, corduroy or mole-
skin trousers, leggings and moccasins beautifully ornamented
with beads or worked in silk. The women wore, as a rule, dark-
coloured skirts of silk, beaded or silk worked moccasins, and
they had dark-coloured shawls over their heads instead of hats
or bonnets.
North of Winnipeg, St. John's Anglican cathedral was the
principal church of that denomination, and there was a
Presbyterian church. in the Scotch settlement of Kildonan,
some miles further. The clergy of the settlement were broad-
minded and on excellent terms with everyone, and the people,
when we got to know them, were kind and true friends.
WINNIPEG FORTY YEARS AGO 31
For several days after the leading troops reached Fort
Garry, the main street, which was a trail from the fort to the
lower settlements through the little viUage of Winnipeg, was
a sea of black mud, caused by the recent rains. In it
voyageurs, whites, half-breeds and Indians fought, wallowed
and slept in all stages of drunkenness, induced by the poison
dispensed over the bars of the vile saloons of the place. They
made the day and night hideous with their yeUs, shrieks and
curses, and it became necessary to detail strong pickets to
patrol the village, and Mr. Donald Smith posted at various
spots special constables to maintain the law. Happily these
precautions had the desired effect, order was restored and the
victims of the debauch returned to work.
On August 31 the last of the corps arrived under Lt.-Col.
Jarvis, and Captain Buller left with his company for the
north-west angle of the Lake of the Woods. On September i
the last of the 60th Rifles departed for the east, followed two
days later by the detachments of Royal Artillery and Royal
Engineers, Mr. Dawson, the indefatigable, brought our first
letters from the east. Mr. Archibald, the newly-appointed
Lieutenant Governor of Manitoba and the North West Terri-
tories, arrived at the Indian settlement at the mouth of the Red
River in his huge bark canoe manned by Indians. From
there he sent on in advance a letter to the commander of the
expedition, congratulating him on its "magnificent success,"
and saying that it was " impossible not to feel that the men
who have so triumphed over such difficulties must not only
themselves have worked wonders, but also must have been
weU led."
Mr. Archibald was a Nova Scotian, a clever lawyer, hand-
some and benevolent in appearance. He was installed in his
office of Lieutenant Governor on September 6. Mr. Donald
Smith, who had carried on the civil government of the North
West until ;Mr. Archibald's arrival, Colonel Wolseley and staff,
and a large number of the leading people of the settlement
were present. Lieutenant Butler and Dr. Schultz arrived
together, both remarkable for their magnificent physique and
almost gigantic stature as well as for the contrast they afforded,
Butler being dark-haired and bearded, Schultz golden-haired
32 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
like a Viking of old. When the governor appeared a large
band of Saulteaux and Cree Indians appeared to do honour
to the occasion. They were on foot, decorated, feathered and
painted, and the chief was mounted on a pony and painted
white from head to foot.
Among the amusing incidents that occurred before Colonel
Wolseley and his staff left Fort Garry was one which took
place when I was on sentry early in the morning at the rear
gate of the Government House. I had only just been posted
when a colonel on the staff, noted for his kindness of heart,
capability as a soldier, hot temper and lurid language, ap-
peared unshaven and in his shirt sleeves, carrying in his hand
a letter. He addressed me with, " Sentry, have you seen my
orderly ? " I replied, " No, sir, not yet 1 " upon which he
broke into his favourite style of conversation when disturbed,
saying, " Blank the blank to h — 1 and d — n ! " I acquiesced
as a good soldier should, and he returned to his quarters, but
soon reappeared just as Stavely, his orderly, who was an ex-
naval man, came swaggering along the walk, spick and span,
as if he owned the country and there was nobody like him.
When the colonel sighted him he said pleasantly, '* Ah,
Stavely ! Take this letter to , and here's 50 cents to
drink my health I "
During his stay at Fort Garry, Colonel Wolseley promulgated
a farewell order to each contingent of troops. The regulars
he thanked for enabling him to carry out the Lieutenant
General's orders so successfully. After referring to the
" excessive fatigue in the performance of a service that for
its arduous nature can bear comparison with any previous
mihtary expedition," to the 600 miles traversed, to the road-
making, to the 47 portages, " entaihng the unparalleled
exertion of carrying the boats, guns, ammunition, stores and
provisions," he went on :
The whole journey has been made through a wilderness,
where, as there were no supplies of any sort whatever to be
had, everjd:hing had to be taken with you in the boats. I
have throughout viewed with pleasure the manner in which
officers have vied with their men in carrying heavy loads. It
has rained 45 days out of the 94 that have passed by since
COLONEL WOLSELEY'S TRIBUTE 33
we landed at Thunder Bay, and upon many occasions every
man has been wet through for days together. There has not
been the sHghtest murmur of discontent heard from anyone.
It may confidently be asserted that no force has had to endure
more continuous labour, and it may be truthfully said that no
men on service have been better behaved or more cheerful
under the trials arising from exposure to inclement weather,
excessive fatigue and the annoyance by flies.
To the militia he addressed a separate farewell in which he
paid them a compliment that must awaken a thrill of pride in
every Canadian's heart.
I can say without flattery that, although I have served with
many armies in the field, I have never been associated with
a better set of men. . . . You have only to attend as
carefully to the orders of the officer to whose command I now
hand you over, as you have done to mine, to become shortly
a force second to no corps in Her Majesty's service. . . .
I bid you all good-bye with no feigned regret. I shall ever
look back with pleasure and pride to having commanded you,
and although separated from you by thousands of miles, I
shall never cease to take an earnest interest in your welfare.
In his Story of a Soldier's Life, Field-Marshal Viscount
Wolseley says :
I can draw no distinction between the relative merits of the
military value of the regular soldier and the Canadian militia
man who went with me to Red River ; each had arrived at
Prince Arthur's Landing with special attributes peculiarly
their own, but by the time Fort Garry had been occupied each
had acquired the military virtues of the other. What it is
that a large army of such men under some great leader could
not achieve, I, for one, know not.
Colonel Wolseley left Fort Garry on September 10, but
before his departure a banquet was given in his honour at
Government House.
Arrangements were made for the two battalions of militia
to garrison the Red River Settlement for the winter of 1870-1.
The ist Ontario Rifles were stationed in Fort Garry, with
No. I Company under Captain Cook at Fort Pembina on the
border, the 2nd Quebec Rifles in the Stone Fort, and in the
34 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
short space of 17 days from the date of the arrival of the
troops everything had been put right, the Lieutenant Governor
had been duly installed, the garrison settled down and the
regulars despatched to eastern Canada.
Soon after Colonel Jarvis took over the command an
incident occurred which disturbed the community and caused
bad blood in the settlement for some time, in fact the feehng
did not die out for more than a year. The Ontario Rifles
were out on fatigue, taking the boats out of the Assiniboine
where they had been moored, and placing them on skids near
the camp. Suddenly two travel-stained horsemen, one on a
black horse the other on a grey, rode up to us and asked if
we had seen a man named Elzear Goulet who, one of them
stated, had commanded the firing party which shot Thomas
Scott. As we could give no information they wheeled quickly
and rode off at full speed towards Winnipeg. The same night
it was reported in camp that they had found Goulet seated
on a bench at the Davis House, a hotel in the village, and when
they had accosted him he had taken flight towards the Red
River, pursued by his accusers. When he arrived at the
bank he turned and threatened to shoot, but they called to
him " Fire away 1 " Seeing that they would not be denied,
he jumped into the river, and when he attempted to swim
across, shots were fired and he sank. The horsemen had been
followed by a crowd of people, amongst whom were two of our
buglers, mere lads. No other soldiers were present, and
neither of these took part in the chase, nor is it likely that
any of our men would have taken part in the pursuit of the
unfortunate man, even had they known that he was one of
the murderers of Scott. We had amongst us about a dozen
very wild spirits, but they were kept in control by the strict
discipline maintained in the regiment, and, what is some-
times better, the fear of the displeasure of their comrades,
who in ways which soldiers have, could make their lives
intolerable. At the time of this occurrence a strong party
of military pohce was in the town night and day, and as they
were remarkable for their attention to duty, it is a certainty
that they would be aware of any part taken by soldiers and
would have arrested the dehnquents on the spot.
THE DISPOSAL OF SCOTT'S BODY 35
The next day our commanding officer, misled by reports
made to him by interested parties who wished to put the
blame on the military to save others, paraded us in camp and
fiercely attacked us, accusing us of being a lot of hot-headed
fanatics who had aided and abetted the death of Goulet. No
doubt he believed the report, for it came to him from persons
in high places, but they were persons who would not hesitate
to make political capital out of the circumstance, and, able
staff officer though he was, he took no steps to inquire into the
charge which, had he done so, could easily have been dis-
proved. He beheved the words of enemies in disguise, and
the evilly-disposed persons, to whom Colonel Wolseley had
referred in his farewell order to us, were thus fortunate enough
to have the blame shifted from their shoulders to ours. Thus,
for party reasons, we were branded throughout the eastern
provinces as a band of murderers, and when the papers from
Ontario and Quebec arrived and were read in barracks, there
was a strong feeling of indignation which it required a steady
hand and tactful mind to keep within bounds. As a matter
of fact it never died out so long as the regiment lasted, and
was carried into civil life.
It was supposed up to this time that the body of poor Scott
was buried within the walls of Fort Garry, but this was dis-
proved one morning before we had gone into barracks. I was
present when an officer of the pubHc works department with
a fatigue party opened the grave which was situated between
the officers' quarters and the south gate. An oblong, pine
box was found, but there was no body in it ; the box was
empty, and had no doubt been buried in the fort to deceive
people as to the true disposal of the remains of the murdered
man. After this discovery there was a strong impression that
his body had been taken away during the night after the
murder, weighted with chains and forced through a hole in
the ice of the Red River, but the mystery has never been
cleared up.
For several months before the advent of the troops to Fort
Garry smallpox had been raging on the plains of the far west
from the Missouri to the North Saskatchewan. This scourge.
36 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
so fatal to the red man, was brought into the country on a
Missouri steamboat plying from St. Louis to Benton, Montana.
A white man, who had the disease, left a blanket behind him
on the steamboat. This was stolen by an Indian of the Gros
Ventre tribe and started the contagion. He caught it and
gave it to his people, amongst whom it spread until many
camps were depopulated, and a war party of the Bloods, a
tribe of the Blackfeet nation, who had gone south to steal
horses, found in one camp nothing alive but the ponies grazing
round the tents. The dead lay as they had fallen.
The Blood warriors, knowing nothing about the disease,
appropriated as many of the ponies and buffalo robes as they
could take, and returned with their spoil to the north, no
doubt well pleased with the results of their foray. It proved,
however, to be a fatal one to them, and to the majority
of the dusky inhabitants of the great plains. By the time
they got back to their people, the infected robes had given
them the disease and it spread through their tribe, de-
populating their camps and sending destruction through
the Peigans, Blackfeet, Crees and Stonies ; in fact through
all our Indian tribes. From them it spread to the plain
hunters. Company's employees and the families of the
missionaries. Many of the latter did their best to induce
the Indians and half-breeds to scatter so as to escape the dread
germs, and all who obeyed them succeeded, but unhappily
there were many who paid no attention to the advice, and
suffered the consequences. Some of the missionaries, well-
meaning but unpractical men, encouraged their flocks to keep
together in large numbers, and they were soon surrounded by
sick and dying people. To make matters worse there were
neither doctors nor medicines, and this state of affairs continued
until enormous numbers of Indians had died. Every important
chief of the Blackfeet nation had gone, leaving few fit to lead
the people. One tribe which, a few years previously, had
2,000 lodges in their principal camp, each lodge averaging at
least eight persons, was reduced to one-tenth of its number.
It was particularly virulent amongst the Crees, who were said
to have contracted it from the Blackfeet in the same way that
the latter had caught it from the Gros Ventres.
THE SMALLPOX EPIDEMIC 37
A Company's officer at Edmonton reported the circumstance
to his chief, with the result that Lieutenant Butler was de-
spatched west with a stock of medicines and directions for
their use, these to be given to the officers of the Company,
missionaries and other persons of intelligence. He had also
orders from Lieutenant Governor Archibald to report upon
the extent of the scourge and its origin, as well as upon all
matters about which it was necessary for the government to
be informed.
The whisky trader had already penetrated the southern
and western portions of the North West Territory, and his
pernicious influence was already felt amongst the tribes in
those regions ; he had to be dealt with, and Lieutenant Butler
was expected to devise means to teach him that British law
was supreme. He performed his task with great skill and sound
judgment, returning to Fort Garry on February 18, 1871,
having travelled on horseback and by dog train 2,700 miles
and endured many severe hardships, sleeping under the sky
with the thermometer indicating many degrees below zero.
His book. The Great Lone Land, gives a clear account of his
journey and work.
Soon after Goulet's death Colonel Jarvis went on leave, and
until his return to Fort Garry in the winter, Lt.-Col. Casault
took over the command of the 2nd Quebec Rifles, whilst that
of the Ontarios fell to Major Wainwright. The quarters
were being put in order for our occupation when Captain
McMillan sent for Private Grady and myself, and gave us a page
of a novel to write from dictation. When we had finished, he
looked over our work with the remark, " That is very nice,"
and dismissed us. A few days later, when the regiment had
moved into barracks, both of us were in orders for promotion
to corporal.
I reported for duty to Sergeant R , a kindly man and an
able civil engineer and land surveyor, but too good for some of
those with whom he had to deal. The majority of the company
were very fine men, but there were several as bad as I have met,
and strange to say they were located in one room in charge of
Corporal A , who seemed to have been selected for the job
38 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
of keeping them in order as much on account of his physical
as his mental powers. The men were afraid of him. The elite
of the company, with few exceptions, had been able to induce
their kindly Sergeant R to permit them to be together in
the other room, and to that I was posted. I was young in
comparison to the majority of the men in the lower room where
the wild spirits were quartered, and I went to Number 7 with
some misgivings. As I expected, I was not well received by
the rough element. The men of the upper room were comrades
from the first, and the officers treated me kindly, but the
" toughs " regarded me as an interloper who should not have
been promoted from another company. One of them, who had
been drinking when I reported to the senior sergeant, made no
bones about telling me so and a great deal more. He was one
of the greatest ruffians that I have ever seen out of gaol, but
our mild senior N.C.O. let him rave away in his drunkenness,
instead of letting him see the inside of the guardroom.
I was not pleased with my reception, but bided my time.
For the first month the bad lot in the company left nothing
undone to compel me to commit myself and be paraded " on
the carpet." Their attempts were useless, however, and I took
my own way, making them toe the mark. Some of them, when
warned for duty, would object that it was not their turn, but
they were made to find that such conduct was useless. I was
firm, laughing off much of their nonsense, with the result that
in less than a month they ceased their stupid manoeuvres and
showed signs that I had at least gained their respect. But it
did not cure them of acts of insubordination for which they were
noted, and one morning a strong, stalwart fellow of the group
had a narrow escape from being charged with murder.
I had just come off guard and was resting on my cot, and
Jack Kerr, a favourite in the company, was busy pohshing the
huge Carron stove when this fellow came upstairs, dressed in
review order without his rifle, conversing with some of the men.
There was a long table beside him on which lay several sheath
knives which had just been cleaned. The cook, nicknamed
" Rattledy W ," came in and began skylarking with Kerr,
who made a black streak across his nose with the brush he was
using on the stove. W laughed at this and the other man
A BRUTAL ASSAULT 39
smiled, but with a sinister look said to Kerr, " You could not
do that to me." " Oh, yes, I could 1 " replied Kerr, and sprang
at him with the brush, making a motion about a foot from his
face, but without touching him, nor did he mean to do so, as
the fellow was in review kit. But this was no safeguard ; the
other seized one of the long sheath knives and, rushing at Kerr,
drove it into his thigh. Before I could get round the stove to
interfere, he made another rush at Kerr, knife in hand, but the
latter was too quick for him ; he seized the huge tongs, used
for the big stove, and brought them down with full force on
his assailant's head, felling him insensible to the ground with
such force that the building shook.
His comrades in the room below, hearing the noise, dashed
up the outside stairway, the only entrance to the room, and
seeing Kerr seated on a cot holding his bleeding thigh, and their
comrade lying senseless on the floor, they made for Kerr like
madmen. On hearing them coming up the stairs I had armed
myself with a rifle, and when they charged, met them with it
clubbed, and drove them out of the room and downstairs by
sheer force. I then sent for the surgeon's assistant, in the
meantime doing my best for both. When Dr. Codd arrived
he sent them to hospital, where both spent some time. This
scrimmage seemed to clear the air, and we had no more trouble
in barracks.
Soon after the regiment had settled down, and the Indian
summer with its delightful sunshine was at its height, our com-
manding officer began our annual training. Being young and
strong with good appetites, we found our rations insufficient,
and when we could afford it we turned to DevUn's prolific
bakery, not far from the barracks. We paraded for drill
two or three times a day, once in the early morning under the
adjutant, again in review order until noon, and in marching
order at half-past two with our 70 lb. packs and ammunition.
This would have been a severe enough test, but, owing to our
work on the portages, we had a contempt for any load less than
the weight of a barrel of pork. In the afternoon, as in the
morning, the drills were those of a rifle regiment of that time,
every movement had to be done very smartly, double time was
the rule, and from extended order we occasionally made rushes
40 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
of 1000 yards or more to assemble on the reserve. After
about 2^ hours of this amusement the proceedings wound up
with a march-past at all the paces, to the music of the regimental
band and the intense satisfaction of a bevy of fair damsels and
their mothers who sat on the balcony on the north side of the
parade ground. Fortunately we were in good trim for the
work, and none showed any signs of fatigue, but it was not
encouraging to our ravenous appetites to return to a cheerless
barrack-room and make our evening meal off a bucket of cold
tea and the attenuated remains of the morning loaf of bread.
These manoeuvres did us a great deal of good, brushed us
up until we were wellnigh perfect, and taught us how little
food a healthy Anglo-Saxon really requires. The afternoon
drills in marching order were in fun styled " Ladies' Parades,"
on account of the interest that the fair sex took in our move-
ments, particularly the pretty wheels on and off the passing
line. One of the young ladies remarked to an officer, "It is
charming to see the regiment out in the afternoons ; the men
look so nice with the little boxes on their backs ! "
CHAPTER IV
Winnipeg forty years ago — Dances — Weddings — Funerals — Sundays —
Schools — Buffaloes — The new province of Manitoba — Election
riots- — Our relaxations- — We leave Fort Gan^' — ^Home again —
The Canadian artillery — A good record — An active veteran —
The inception of the North West Mounted Police — " The wild
and woolly west " — Whisky traders — " Whoop up " — " The
Spitsee cavalry "■ — A treacherous attack — The Peigans, Crees, and
Assiniboines' — ^The state of things in the west.
THE Red River Settlement^ in 1870 — consisted of parishes
which were subdivided into narrow farms about four
miles in length, the rear half of which was held as a
hay privilege. The houses being close together gave the
settlers the advantages of a water front and easy communica-
tion for social intercourse. The rivers during the summer
were the highways for their boats, and those of the Great
Company, and during the winter became a sheltered road for
their sleighs and dog trains. The houses were chiefly of squared
logs let into a frame, and were roofed heavily with thatch ;
the farms were fenced with rails and posts as far back as
required for agriculture. Near each house were the outbuildings
and sheds, whilst huge piles of poplar poles stood on and in the
vicinity of the clay-oven, almost invariably to be seen near the
house.
The chief social events in the life of the settlers were dances,
weddings and funerals, whilst church-going was a duty never
neglected, the people being in the habit of walking five or six
miles to service, or riding or driving twice that distance.
Weddings were as important then as now, and were one of the
^ My kind friend, the Hon. Colin Inkster. High Sheriff of Manitoba,
whose father was one of the first to welcome the troops on their arrival
in the vicinity of his residence, Seven Oaks, Point Douglas, has given
me much valuable information, which added to my own experiences
has enabled me to write a short sketch which may be of interest to those
who have not had the great pleasure of meeting those delightful people,
the first settlers of the Great Lone Land.
41
42 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
occasions on which wines and liquors were drunk. They took
place during the winter months, as the long nights were
conducive to the proper execution of the Red River Jig, the
Scotch Reel and other dances requiring vigour.
To be a good jig dancer required much speed and endurance.
When the first surveyors arrived a dispute arose as to the
distance to Sturgeon Creek, about six miles west of Winnipeg.
In order to settle it they agreed to send one of their dog drivers
to the creek and back with a pedometer in his pocket. This
was at night, and before he had come back the surveyors had
gone to bed. Next morning their dog driver produced the
pedometer and to their astonishment the instrument indicated
60 miles 1 He was at once questioned as to where he had been,
and his reply was that he did not go farther than Sturgeon
Creek, but finally he admitted that when he arrived there a
dance was going on, to which he was invited, and he had danced
all night, walking home in the morning.
Weddings generally took place on a Thursday ; the father
of the bride or some person representing him went from house
to house, inviting friends and neighbours on a day prior to the
wedding, not later than the Monday. It was short notice, but
such was the custom. On these occasions it was not unusual
for the guests coming from a distance to arrive the night before,
and have a sort of prehminary canter for the following day.
The bridal party drove in carioles, another reason for not
celebrating weddings in the summer months, as it would not
be becoming to see twenty or thirty well-dressed couples going
to church in squeaking Red River carts. The horses were
decorated with coloured ribbons, and when the party arrived
at the bride's house they were received with a salute of firearms.
The men then put away the horses, and the ladies doffed their
French merinos and substituted mushn gowns. Dancing then
commenced and was kept up all night. The music was supphed
by relays of fiddlers, and the only interruptions were for meals.
These consisted of roast beef, roast mutton, buffalo tongues,
plum puddings, mince pies, etc., and as one house was too small
for the entertainment of such a large party, two were generally
brought into use, one for dancing and the other for feasting.
The following week the groom would take his bride to his
EARLY DAYS IN MANITOBA 43
father's house, and a repetition of the festivities ensued, called
the " home wedding,"
Funerals were conducted with great solemnity and decorum,
friends were invited as at the weddings and refreshments
partaken of. The coffin, home-made and covered with a
black cloth, was carried by four men at a time, whilst four
others walked by their side, ready to take their places when
the patriarch who led the procession should halt and call out
" Relief ! " The carriers would then fall out, and others be
ready to relieve those who had taken their places. Funerals
proceeded in this way for many miles, a halt being occasion-
ally called for refreshments.
Sunday was kept with Puritan exactness and, however
great their need, no windmill would grind on that day. As
for cards, they were prohibited as an institution of the Evil
One.
Of churches and schools the settlers had sufficient, and,
thanks to the missionary societies, the salaries of the Pro-
testant ministers were paid, and those of the teachers in part,
especially in the poorer settlements. In St. John's, where the
people were well off, the parents paid 15s. per child per annum
and suppUed sufficient firewood to warm the schoolhouse.
In that school, besides the three R's, geography, history,
grammar, Latin and French were taught, and Bible history
was one of the most important branches. At one time
school material was so scarce that old slates had to be broken
up for slate pencils and tea-chest lead beaten into shape to
take the place of lead pencils, but these were, of course,
extreme cases. Quill pens were often used, the teachers
cutting them into shape every morning, and each pupil's name
was scratched on the back of the quill.
In 1870-1 the buffalo were about 300 miles west of Fort
Garry, and nearly half the people hved by hunting them.
There were two classes of hunters, one that lived by the chase,
called " winterers," the other that had small farms and hved
on them during the winter ; the former class usually arrived
from their winter quarters and encamped west of the fort, the
product of their hunt being mostly buffalo robes and wolf
and fox skins.
44 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
After the sale of their robes money circulated freely ; they
had no idea of economy and never thought of putting anything
aside for a rainy day. They would pay £40 or £50 for a
good horse, as the possession of a good buffalo runner would
raise the owner from poverty to affluence in one season.
After they had sold or traded their robes and furs, they out-
fitted again and went off to their summer hunt early in June.
The class with the small farms did likewise and returned with
what they called " dry provisions " in August. The product
of the summer hunt would be pemmican, dried meat, tallow,
dressed skins, sinews and hides. The " winterers " then
outfitted and left for the west and did not return until spring.
Those with the little farms, after they had harvested their
crops, went out for the fall hunt and came back in November
to spend the winter in the settlement.
The first cattle were driven into the settlement from the
south by Americans ; cows sold at ;^30 and oxen at £18.
Such was the Red River Settlement, and up to the date of
the rebellion of the Metis I believe there were no more truly
happy people in the world than the inhabitants of this region.
In the words of Longfellow,
Neither locks had they to their doors, nor bars to their windovrs.
Their dwellings were open as day, and the hearts of their owners.
There the richest was poor and the poorest lived in abundance.
During the winter of 1870-1 party feehng ran high in the
new province of Manitoba. Old sores were re-opened and real
or imaginary grievances made the most of. The elections
came off on November 20 and produced much rioting, which
kept the excellent httle civil force, our military police, and
inlying pickets very busy. Fortunately, it was not considered
necessary to call out the troops. The pickets were strong,
the pohce resolute and tactful, and the very numerous dis-
turbances which took place during the winter were quelled
with a firm hand.
The civil police force was a fine body of men under the
command of Captain Villiers, of the Quebec Rifles, who had
served in the 13th Hussars. The constables were selected
from the two rifle regiments, and there were a few young
fellows from the settlement. They were drilled and uni-
AN ELECTION RIOT 45
formed as cavalry. In all their dealings with the rival
parties they displayed sound judgment, thus gaining the
confidence of the public. As for the men of the regiment,
there were few who gave trouble while the elections were in
progress. The colonel did not confine the corps to barracks, as
was customary in those days ; he put us on our honour and had
very little cause to regret it, although considering the bitter
party feeling one might think that the indulgence was risky.
When the rioting began I was on picket. The call for help
was sounded, and the picket hurried to the town before I
could fall in, as my quarters were outside the fort. I ran aU
the way to join it, however, and was met by three hostiles
who tried to stop me ; but I clubbed my rifle and easily brushed
them aside ; they were not prepared to try conclusions in
that way. When I fell into the ranks the riot was at its height
and many arrests were made. Our officer ordered us to
load with ball, and it seemed at one time that we might have
to fire ; but, fortunately, the disturbance was quelled without
it, though there were many broken heads.
In spite of our regular round of garrison duties, we contrived
during our spare evenings to have a pleasant time. There
were dances in the settlement, the reading-room Was full of
men every night, reading the papers and writing letters home,
which had to be carried 500 miles by dog-trains and sleighs
before they would reach the nearest railway. There were
readings from his favourite authors by Ensign Stewart Mulvey,
who convulsed his audience as he rendered humorous passages
from " Handy Andy," " Rory O'More," and " Charles O'Mal-
ley." Amateur theatricals, nigger minstrels and concerts, in
which the officers and men took part, were held in town and
well attended by the citizens and soldiers. The vocal talent
was above the average and much appreciated.
Even on guard the time did not hang heavily, although
on the cold nights the sentries had to be relieved every hour,
which necessitated a good deal of walking, but when one
returned to the guard-room there were many yarns to amuse
us. There were a couple of dozen old soldiers in the regiment,
one of whom had been through the Central Indian campaign
under Sir Hugh Rose. On one of these occasions, he said.
46 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
" I was in the 86th Royal County Down in the Mutiny, and
whin we tuk the fort of Jhansi there was a big pile of goold
and dimonds in the middle of the big square, but I would not
go near it, do yez think I wud ? Not a bit av it ! But there
were dozens who did, and were busy filling their pockets whin
there was an explosion, which blew them all to the divil ! It
was jist as I expicted, there was a mine undernayth the goold
and dimonds, put there to blow us up whin we wud be hilpin'
ourselves to the stuff ! "
The first Legislative Assembly of the new province of
Manitoba consisted of 24 members, and the inaugural session
was opened on March 15. It was convened in due form by
Mr. Archibald in person, the usual salute was fired, and the
Ontario Rifles furnished a guard of honour,
A short time before the snow had disappeared orders
had been received for the officer commanding the district
to select from each of the two regiments a company of 50 men,
who would volunteer to remain in the service to garrison
Fort Garry for another year, or longer. All the soldiers who
desired to enter civil life in the west were to be discharged,
and those who did not wish to settle in Manitoba were to be
sent back to Toronto or elsewhere in the east. The discharges
entitled the recipients to a free grant of 160 acres of prairie
land. If they decided to farm they could have a homestead
of 160 acres and a pre-emption of the same area, the latter at a
trifling cost per acre, and three years in which to pay for it.
No difficulty was experienced in getting 100 men to volunteer
for the service companies, and Major Irvine, of the 2nd Quebec
Rifles, was placed in command. The discharges of those who
wished to settle were soon in their hands, and the necessary
arrangements made for those who were returning to the east.
We left Fort Garry on June 11, and on the morning of July 14
we arrived at Toronto.
The Quebec Rifles manned the walls of the old fort and
gave us three hearty cheers as the train rushed by. This was
the only welcome we received, but a veteran officer of the
British Army, who was on a visit to Canada, was at the station
when we detrained, and he remarked, " Well, those are some-
thing like soldiers 1 " We were discharged in a few days, and
A FENIAN RAID 47
departed for our homes, whence the majority soon returned
to the west.
Captain Scott was sent to Manitoba the same autumn to
reinforce Major Irvine's companies. A Fenian raid had been
attempted on the province of Manitoba a couple of months
after the return of the expedition. Major Irvine had taken
very prompt steps, but the American troops had been set
in motion and nipped the affair in the bud, before he had a
chance to give them a drubbing. This could easily have
been done, as the whole of the officers and men of the Red River
expedition who had settled in the west, backed up by a large
number of settlers and Hudson's Bay employees under Mr.
Donald Smith and other leading citizens, rallied to his assistance
and marched under him to the frontier. Captain Scott's
command, which had started late, and went by the north-west
angle of the Lake of the Woods, underwent a good deal of
hardship at an inclement season of the year, but on their
arrival were soon settled down comfortably in old Fort Garry,
and were stationed there for a considerable time, rendering
the settlement perfectly safe from attack.
In October, 187 1, the new battery of artillery and school
of gunnery, the first of the Canadian Permanent Force, was
being organized, and my younger brother Richard and I went
to Kingston, Ontario, the headquarters of the corps, for the
purpose of taking a twelve months' course.
The battery had few men when we joined, my brother and
I being the twenty-second and twenty-third members of it.
When fully up to strength it would consist of long-course
N.C.O.'s and gunners from the field and garrison batteries
of the militia, and be able to receive and instruct short-course
officers and men. Lt.-Col. (now Maj.-Gen. Sir George) French
of the Royal Artillery, commanded the battery and school
of instruction, and the next senior officer was Captain
Cotton.
The commandant began the formation of the battery by
selecting the best N.C.O.'s and privates from the disbanded
depot of the Ontario and Quebec Rifles, which had been
stationed at Kingston while those corps had been in the west.
These were given a good course in gunnery, and were obliged
48 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
to pass their examinations and prove their fitness in every
way. The chief instructor and sergeant-major was John
Mortimer, late sergeant-major of the school of gunnery at
Shoeburyness, England. He was the first man to instruct
on the Armstrong gun when it was invented, and was considered
one of the ablest of his rank in the R.A. I always congratulate
myself on having served with him and profited by his precept
and example. Mortimer had been twenty-two years in the
army, which he had entered at the age of sixteen in the R.H.A.,
and when the short service system was introduced he was
obliged to leave while he was still in his prime. It was related
of him that when he had his papers he marched to the parade
ground, and facing to his proper front, addressed himself thus : — ■
" Sergeant-Ma j or John Mortimer, you have served your Queen
and country faithfully for two and twenty years ; your services
are no longer required. Right turn 1 Dismiss ! " On these
commands from himself he turned to the right, took a side pace
to the left, and marched briskly through the barrack gate,
to be seen no more in England. He proceeded to Canada by
the first ship, enhsted in the Red River force, and when he
was discharged was appointed to the rank of brigade sergeant-
major in the battery, where he certainly left his mark, as he
did afterwards at the Royal Military College.
In the spring we were reinforced by some first-class in-
structors and other staff N.C.O.'s from England. They came
fresh from courses in instruction in their branches of the
service. They were soon busy and left their impress on the
battery and the militia artillery. Among them was Staff-
Sergeant (now Lt.-Col.) Clarke, who, in addition to his work
as a laboratory foreman, had charge of the drivers of the
battery, and soon had that part of the work on a sound basis.
He had served in the Crimea, and had the medals and clasps.
His yarns about the Russian war were interesting and his
experiences varied, for he had taken a turn at everything
done by his famous battery, the Grey, of the 4th Brigade.
By June there was a large camp of instruction assembled at
Kingston under the command of my former O.C, Colonel
Jarvis, and it was visited by the Earl of Dufferin, the Governor
General, accompanied by Colonel P. Robertson Ross, the
CHAOS AT NEW FORT 49
adjutant-general of militia, who gave the battery its first
inspection.
The corps suppUed the guards of honour for Lord Dufferin«
They presented a very fine appearance, nearly all of the fifty
men in the front rank were decorated with medals, and the
guard averaged at least five feet ten inches. We handled our
arms with smartness and precision ; an Irish soldier near me
muttering between his teeth, " Holy Moses, what a prisint I
I tell ye, I tell ye 1 " I was sandwiched between two ex-colour-
sergeants of the British Army, one had the Crimean, Turkish,
Indian Mutiny medals and Legion of Honour decorating his
broad breast, and the other showed the same medals and the
French decoration for Valour and Discipline.
After the miUtia camp broke up a brigade of garrison artillery
was stationed in Fort Henry for training, and five instructors,
myself included, were sent there to train them. Our quarters
were in the casemates, and damp from long disuse, but we
were strong, and if our boots became blue-moulded during the
night from the effects of it, they were easier for the batmen to
pohsh ! I was very fortunate in having a very good battery
to instruct, though none of the men understood Enghsh.
At the final inspection, however, their record was the best
in the brigade for gunnery and discipUne. Their officers
belonged to the old seignorial famihes of the province of
Quebec.
I was next sent to Toronto with a strong party to be
stationed in the New Fort, as the Stanley barracks were
then called, to put the artillery stores, guns and ammunition
in order, and I was given the selection of my men, a very
great compliment. I found everjrthing in the worst state of
confusion, disorder, and neglect, in fact as bad as could be.
The stores were piled in heaps on the floors, but before we had
been there a month order was restored, thanks largely to our
hard-working district gunner, Billy Mitton, a man of more
than twenty years' service in the army, but who would never
accept promotion. After the stores were put right, we made
the obsolete cartridges into modern ones to suit our guns,
but before this was done the Toronto garrison battery came
into barracks for their annual training, and I took charge
50 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
of their instruction, assisted by several of my detachmentji
The corps was excellent, and its training a great pleasure to us.
The officers were good disciplinarians, but kind to their men,
who were bright and well-behaved.
When the last evening in barracks arrived the battery gave
a smoking concert, which Lt.-Col. Goodwin, the mihtary
store-keeper, a position now held by the senior Ordnance
officer, attended, and contributed much to our pleasure by
dancing Irish jigs and hornpipes, and singing " a Waterloo song
by a Waterloo man," as he called it, and he also gave the
fugle exercise which had been abolished in 1826, a graceful
handling of the old Brown Bess musket. It was marvellous
to see this officer of 82 years performing this feat as if he were
still in his prime. He had served in Bull's troop of the R.H.A.
at Quatre Bras and Waterloo, and at the former received
a lance wound through the left arm while fighting hand to
hand with Kellerman's cavalry when they made their fierce
onslaught upon the British squares and guns.
After Waterloo he served in Paris in the army of occupation
under the Duke of Wellington, and while there made the^^
acquaintance of several of Napoleon's most noted mattres^
d'armes, with the result that he became not only a good French
scholar, but one of the best swordsmen in Europe, fencing well
in both the Italian and French styles. Duelling was in vogue,
of course, and in his travels three men who insulted him by
saying that no Englishman could fence, were carried off the
field. The old gentleman was now devoting his dechning
years to making a competence for the widow and young child
of his son Henry, who had died while attempting a severe
gymnastic feat.
In those days the Old Fort possessed a canteen for the sale
of ale, porter and groceries, and we got our supplies from the
Irish couple who had the privilege of keeping it. The husband
was an ex-sergeant of a famous regiment, and he and his
wife had been with the corps in all quarters of the globe. We
liked them, and had no reason to think that there were occa-
sional lapses from the path of sobriety, but one dull morning
Gunner Phillips had cause to visit them for the day's groceries,
and found the interior of the canteen in a most ruinous state.
A CATASTROPHE 51
The old man, still active and in his prime, had " broken out "
and taking an axe, an excellent weapon for the purpose, had
demolished the imoffending beer pumps, the clock, and in fact
everything within reach, but when Phillips arrived he had
sobered, and was going about amongst the wreckage wringing
his hands, bemoaning his foolish escapade, while his faithful
spouse, who had also returned to the prosaic present, sat
on the floor in the midst of the ruins, dissolved in tears, and
when the visitor appeared broke out into lamentations, ejacu-
lating, " Pheelips, I'm a luniac 1 "
We found Toronto very pleasant, but were kept busy durmg
the spare hours. After work I attended the Commercial
College for a course in business, telegraphy, etc., and when
that was concluded I returned to Kingston, the colonel having
found himself short of instructors.
In the battery there were many things to amuse ; every
kind of sport was indulged in during our spare hom^s, there
were also amusing tales to tell of scenes in the orderly-room
when prisoners appeared before the commandant. A gunner,
whose time was to be very short, had given the N.C.O, of his
room much trouble, and the sergeant in testifying against him
dehvered himself thus : " I do not know what to make of
this man, sir ! He goes out when he likes, comes in when he
likes, gets drunk when he likes, in fact he might be an officer,
sir!"
It was not all fun, however, even when we tried to have
it, as we found to our regret when the battery had its annual
picnic, which came off in the summer. This was held on an
island east of Kingston, and we proceeded there in our numerous
boats, one of which, a very cranky little craft, with two masts,
was steered by an ex-naval man. After limcheon he started
off east with three others in the boat, and when they had
gone a few miles before a very fresh breeze, they attempted to
luff. I was watching them from a high point, and saw the
sails disappear and then come up again. This was repeated
several times, and I told an officer and several others that the
boat had upset, and the men were trying to get on the bottom
and tmning her over. They would not be convinced, however,
so, caUing for volunteers, I jumped into a boat, and we rowed
52 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
hard for the overturned craft, which I saw in the distance.
When we reached it we found the sailor seated in the stern
with his boots, a pair of Wellingtons, held between his teeth,
while he kept the boat before the wind ! There was no sign of
one of the men, but the other two were on the bottom of the
boat making agonized efforts to retain a hold of the keel over
which the waves washed with great force, and it was evident
that had help not come, their end would have been soon.
The sailor by his own efforts had turned the boat, and re-
peatedly placed his comrades on it when they were washed off.
With some difficulty we got the three men on board. Soon
after we landed I asked our sailor gunner why he took the
trouble to hang on to his boots under such circumstances.
"They cost me two dollars," was his practical reply, "and if
the lads had drowned in spite of my efforts to save them,
I could swim ashore and have the boots to carry me over the
gravel. I had no fears for myself, but it was almost certain
that the men would drown if help did not come soon."
Apart from this unfortunate circumstance, the spring and
summer of 1873 passed off pleasantly enough. I had many
friends, and at the week-ends had trips to Gananoque to visit
the family of Mr. J. B. Mitchell, or would take a run down to
Alexandria Bay, a pleasant summer resort among the Thousand
Islands, where Generals U. S. Grant and Phil Sheridan were
to be seen, seated under the trees in quiet converse or stroUing
about enjoying their cigars and the music of the bands, as if
the roar of battle had never troubled them.
In August at Ottawa I learnt that the North West Mounted
Police Force was to be raised and sent to the north west
very soon. I obtained an introduction to Major Walsh,
who, it turned out, was well known to my relatives on the
St. Lawrence. He was to commence recruiting for " A "
division of the force, and I arranged to go with him as his
sergeant-major if I could get my discharge. So we went
to Colonel French, who was in the city, and with a twinkle
in his eye, as if he knew all about it, he gave four others and
myself permission to leave the battery and join the poUce.
We returned to Kingston as soon as possible to get our dis-
charges and examinations, and left for Brockville by steamer.
THE INCEPTION OF THE N.W.M.P. 53
but before we departed our messes gave us a joUy send-off
I was sorry to leave, for I had been very well treated by aU
ranks, and I liked the work, but there were no prospects, and
I had the Great Lone Land before me, where it is a man's own
fault if he fails while he has health and strength.
We were met on the arrival of the boat by Major Walsh,
and in the afternoon we passed the medical examination, and
were sworn in as members of the North West Mounted PoUce
Force. Major Walsh left for Ottawa the same evening and
directed me to take any desirable recruits who might present
themselves, and, on October i, I took over my duties as
sergeant-major of the division.
Before going further with this narrative I must give some
idea of what we were, what we were going to do, and why the
North West Mounted Police Force was organized. Many
persons of high attainments who have only seen the results
are under the erroneous impression that there never has been
in Canada, as in the United States, what is commonly called
" The Wild and Woolly West." Such is not the case, for
the state of affairs in the west at the time of the organization
of the N.W.M.P. was infinitely worse than in the days when
none but the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company and the
numerous tribes of Red Indians inhabited the territory.
One cause of the lawlessness was the settlement of the
territories of the United States to the south of us. Here
large numbers of reckless men found their way, and simply
did what they pleased, ruined the Indians, and brought on
quarrels with them for the sake of gain. No steps had been
taken to restrain them, and the consequence was that there
were many who traded to the Indians improved arms and
" fire water " in exchange for buffalo robes and furs. These
men moved over into Canada, and estabhshed pahsaded
posts as a protection against the Indians whom they were
destroying, and systematically continued their nefarious
traffic.
The Indians, although much reduced by the ravages of
smallpox, were still powerful and of a warlike character.
The territory formerly under the rule of the Hudson's Bay
54 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Company had been transferred to the government. The
Red River expedition had only enabled the government to be
properly carried on in the then small province of Manitoba,
which at that time extended not more than loo miles west
of Winnipeg. The south of the territory had not even a justice
of the peace, nor dared one set foot in that region.
Travelling across the prairies was fraught with danger.
Near Edmonton and on the east slope of the Rocky Mountains
the Indians were friendly. A Methodist mission had without
difficulty been established well up in the foothills of the Rocky
Mountains by the Rev, George McDougaU, one of the most
noted and enterprising missionaries of his church, but south
and west from these foothills, where the city of Calgary is now
situated, through the country where the thriving cities of
Medicine Hat, Lethbridge and Macleod are located, and along
the south branch of the Saskatchewan it was necessary to
travel with an escort of armed men.
One of the principal posts of the traders in that region was
Fort Hamilton, commonly known as " Whoop Up," situated
at the forks of the Belly and St. Mary's rivers. There were
two walls, about a dozen feet apart, built of heavy squared
logs, braced across by heavy log partitions about the same
distance from one another, dividing it into rooms, which
were used as dwellings, blacksmiths' shops, stores, etc., the
doors and windows opening into the square. There were
bastions at the comers, and the walls were loop-holed for
musketry. Iron bars were placed across the chimneys to
prevent the Indians from getting in that way. There were
heavy log roofs across the partitions, and a strong gate of oak,
with a small opening to trade through. All other posts merely
had palisades, but they were strong enough for the purpose.
The trader stood at the wicket, a tubful of whisky beside him,
and when an Indian pushed in a buffalo robe to him through
the hole in the wall he handed out a tin cupful of the poisonous
decoction. A quart of the stuff bought a fine pony. When
spring came, wagonloads of the proceeds of the traffic were
escorted to Fort Benton, Montana, some 200 odd miles south
of the border line.
There were a few legitimate American traders in the country.
A HORRIBLE MASSACRE 55
who traded to the Indians Winchester repeating rifles and
ammunition, which enabled them to hunt the buffalo with
success, and thus increase the quantity of robes to be traded.
The whisky-traders objected, and to put a stop to it organized
a body of men styled " The Spitsee Cavalry," after the river
of that name, now the well-known High River, Alberta. Spitsee
means taU timber, and, consequently. High Wood was the name
by which we knew it at first. These people ran some of the
legitimate traders out of the country in spite of their protests.
In 1872 a party of men, most of whom had taken part in
the great Civil War in the South, came from Fort Benton,
Montana, to the Cypress Hills, about 40 miles north of the
border, near where Fort Walsh was afterwards built. These
men traded large quantities of whisky to a band of Assini-
boine Indians who were encamped along the creek on a flat
piece of prairie, now known as "The Massacre Ground."
When night came these fiends in human shape decided to
" clean out " the Indian camp, and accordingly proceeded to
a cut bank on the south side of the creek. Here they could
stand on the gravel, breast high, rest their Winchesters on
the top and fire from good cover. The Indians were in the
midst of their orgy, every lodge lighted up so that a good view
of each could be had. Fire was then opened, with the result
that over 30 of the Indians were killed, many wounded,
and the rest, not knowing where their assailants were, took
to the hiUs for refuge. This occurrence was seen by Abe
Farwell, a respectable American trader who had a post close
by, and who was married to a Crow squaw known as Big Mary,
After the Indians had fled the ruffians had made prisoner a
young squaw who had crossed the creek to take refuge with
the Farwells, and were in the act of carrying her off when Big
Mary appeared upon the scene, covered them with a revolver,
and, backed up by Abe, dragged her from them and took her
to their post.
From time immemorial the Indians of the west were at
war with one another, and many fierce and bloody conflicts
took place. One of these came about in this way. There was
a trading post named Fort Kipp, after Joe Kipp, a well-known
scout and interpreter of those days. It was situated at the
56 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
forks of the Belly and Old Man's rivers, half-way between
the present towns of Lethbridge and Macleod, and was in
charge of a well-known and respectable trader named Howell
Harris. Up the Belly, close by, there was a camp of North
and South Peigans, a branch of the Blackfeet, composed of
about 500 warriors. At the time the Assiniboine Chief Piapot,
with a large number of Cree and Assiniboine Indians, had
gone into the Blackfeet country to hunt buffalo, and had
camped on the left bank of the Belly, opposite to where Leth-
bridge now flourishes. Piapot sent his scouts up the Belly to
where a small party of old Peigan men, women and children
were encamped, and these unfortunates were all put to death,
except a boy of thirteen, who took to the bush, and eventually
found his way to Kipp, where he warned the trader and the
Peigan warriors.
The Peigans came to the Hudson's Bay Company's post
and persuaded Jerry Potts, a remarkable scout and interpreter
employed there, to take command as their war-chief. The
next morning at dawn Potts took Piapot 's camp by surprise,
and after a desperate fight drove the Assiniboines and Crees
out of the country. Mr. Harris and another, who followed
Potts out of curiosity, were in full view of the battle. The
Crees and Assiniboines, driven out of their camp ground, took
to the ford near the coal banks and, being crowded, suffered
heavily from the rifles of Potts' warriors, who pumped bullets
into them and followed them across the Belly, keeping up the
fight as long as an enemy was in sight. Four hundred dead
were counted on the field, apart from those who were kiUed
in the ford and on the other side. At the close of the fight
Potts was knocked senseless by a stone in the hands of a
Cree squaw. For many years Potts acted as police interpreter,
scout and guide, and was one of the most remarkable men I
have known, having a most extraordinary eye for country.
Before the arrival of the N.W.M.P. no Hudson's Bay
Company's trading post could be maintained with safety south
of the Red Deer. Even the whisky-traders could not have
established themselves in the Blackfeet country had they not
been led by men who knew war and palisaded their posts. There
was incessant warfare between the tribes, and this condition.
INDIAN OUTRAGES 57
enhanced by the abundance of whisky brought in by un-
scrupulous traders, provided a decidedly wild and wooUy
atmosphere south of the Red Deer and South Saskatchewan
rivers. The Indians burnt Old Bow Fort near a Hudson's
Bay Company's post on the Bow, which is really the head of
the South Saskatchewan, and Chesterfield House, built below
the confluence of the South Saskatchewan and Red Deer at a
cost of £40,000. In consequence, the Hudson's Bay Company
built Rocky Mountain House, about 100 miles above Edmonton,
on the North Saskatchewan. This was done to pacify the
Blackfeet, as they were determined that intruders, both white
and red, should be kept off their hunting grounds. When they
met at Edmonton for trade, the Crees and Blackfeet invariably
fought, causing the occupants of the fort to close the gates and
man the banquette until the fight was over. In 1870 seven
Blackfeet who went to Edmonton to trade were slaughtered by
the Crees, in spite of the efforts of the ofl&cer in charge of the
post, assisted by hired half-breeds from St. Albert Mission.
The Drunken Lakes, a few miles from Edmonton on the
north side, were the scene of orgies, bnitahties and crimes
beyond description, aU caused by " fire water." Murder was
common and the perpetrators stalked abroad in open day
without the slightest fear of arrest. In 1870 a whole party of
Blackfeet, who were on the south side of the Saskatchewan,
were slaughtered by the Crees, and a war party of Black-
feet shortly afterwards came up to avenge them. Seeing
there the carts of the Hudson's Bay Company and Mr. David
MacDougaU, they looted the goods and furs, burnt the carts,
and after firing a volley at the closed gates of the fort, left for
the south. There were many massacres and outrages of the
most dreadful description in the vicinity and under the walls
of Forts Carlton, Pitt, Edmonton, and Mountain Fort, as the
Rocky Mountain House was named. The murderers went
scot free unless the famihes of the murdered men contrived
the death of the murderer. Scalping and horse stealing were
considered virtues. The Indian who could boast of his coups
of stolen horses and scalps taken was the envy and admiration
of his tribe.
Only the traveller who courted death went west of where
58 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Regina now prospers, in the midst of smiling farms, without an
escort. When exploring the west in the late fifties. Captain
Palliser had to go out hunting a whole winter with Old Sun, the
Blackfoot Chief, that he might become acquainted with the tribe
and be permitted to take his observations without molestation.
The half-breed hunters and others of the Red River settlement
never ventured west of the Moose Jaw, except in well-organized,
armed bands, with written rules and regulations, guards,
scouts and pickets. An experienced hunter styled " The Cap-
tain of the Hunt " was responsible for the scouting. When-
ever they halted in the Indian country their carts were formed
in circular corrals, or laagers, the shafts turned inwards and the
hubs touching. Tents were pitched inside and the horses
corralled in the same enclosure. These people often fought
with the Indians, particularly the Sioux and Blackfeet, and
they considered themselves " far out," when at Swift Current
Creek, where there is now a prosperous town. If they ventured
to the Cypress Hills they did not stay long, for the game being
plentiful and in great variety, the Indians made that a favour-
ite hunting ground and would swarm to the destruction of the
intruders as soon as they were aware of their presence.
CHAPTER V
The organization of the N.W.M.P. — We leave for Fort Garry — I am
made sergeant-major — Anomalies of the organization — Life at the
Stone Fort — The march to the wildemesS' — A stampede^ — A motley
calvacadC' — The march — ^We leave the main party' — ^We start for
Edmonton— A convoy of crockS' — ^A disastrous jump — Forest
fires — Pemmican — Fort Carlton — Roast skunk' — ^Difi&culties of the
journey — Exhausted horses — A sea of mud — An awful night —
The limit of endurance — Trouble on trouble — Edmonton at last —
Colonel French's march' — Jerry Potts — The Rockies — Whisky
raids — The first pow-wow with the Blackfeet Nation^ — Crowfoot —
The Blackfeet — A case of self-defence — The Swan River barracks —
Colonel French's report — A record march.
THIS was the state of affairs when Canada took pos-
session of the Great West, and steps should have
been taken at once to remedy it. The horrors referred
to were brought to the notice of the government in 1871
by the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company ; remedies were
suggested by the Revs. George and John MacDougall, Father
Lacombe, Captain Butler, Colonel P. Robertson Ross and Sir
Sandf ord Fleming, aU of whom had taken trips through the north
country.
Many exaggerated reports of the state of affairs in the north
west reached the ears of the government at Ottawa, and no
doubt caused them to put off doing what should have been
done as soon as Lieutenant Butler's report had been submitted.
However, on May 3, 1873, Sir John Macdonald introduced a
Bill for the estabHshment of a pohce force in the North West
Territories. This body was not to exceed 300 men, " who
should be mounted as the government should from time to
time direct," the commissioner and superintendents to be ex-
o^cio justices of the peace. The salaries were small when
considered in relation to the hardships of the service and the
banishment from the advantages of civilization ; but the
government probably rehed on the spirit of adventure regard-
59
6o FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
less of compensation which is innate in every Anglo-Saxon in his
early manhood.
One of the clauses in the North West Mounted Pohce Act* was
that " No person shall be appointed to the Police Force unless
he be of sound constitution, active and able-bodied, able to ride,
of good character, able to read and write either the Enghsh
or French language, and between the ages of i8 and 40
years." Recruiting was commenced in September under
Inspector Walsh. It was decided to despatch to Fort Garry in
October three divisions of 50 men each, so that they might
arrive before winter set in. Lt.-Col. W. Osborne Smith was to
have temporary command of the force until the arrival of the
•commissioner.
From Prince Arthur's Landing there travelled with us on
their way west the last party of settlers of that year, consisting
of a man, his wife and family and a couple of spans of horses.
They were very nice people and lucky in having us for their
feUow-travellers to assist them along. Thus within a month of
its organization the N.W.M.P. began the work of assisting the
immigrant to his destination.
At the Stone Fort we were soon settled fairly comfortably in
the store buildings which had to answer for barracks. The
■officers were quartered in the Hudson's Bay Company's officers'
mess, which stiU stands in the centre of the square, and as soon
as all were located Lt.-Col. Osborne Smith came down from
Winnipeg and swore us in, each man being given a warrant with
his name and rank, the first and last issued to the force. When
my turn came Inspector Walsh said to the colonel, " I wish to
recommend Sergeant-Ma j or Steele to be confirmed in his rank,"
and Colonel Smith replied, " I am very glad, for my friend,
Colonel French, who is commissioner, has requested me to
appoint him."
Supt. Jarvis was left in command after Colonel Smith returned
to Winnipeg. Inspector Walsh took over the duties of adjutant,
veterinary surgeon and riding-master. Griesbach took charge
of the discipline and instructed the divisions at foot driU in the
square of the fort. I took over the breaking of the horses and
instructed the N.C.O.'s and men in riding. Our work was
1 Passed May 20, 1873.
ORGANIZING OF THE N.W.M.P. 6r
unceasing from 6 a.m. until after dark, I drilled five rides per
day the whole of the winter in an open menage, and the orders
were that if the temperature were not lower than 36 below zera
the riding and breaking should go on.
With very few exceptions the horses were bronchos which
had never been handled, and none but the most powerful and
skilful dared attempt to deal with them. Even when we had
them " gentled" so as to let recruits mount, the men were
repeatedly thrown with great violence to the frozen ground ;
but no one lost his nerve, they always " had it with them."
With plenty of such exercise, when spring opened they were
very fine riders, laying the foundation of Canadian horseman-
ship in the wild and woolly west.
Lt.-Col. French arrived in November and assumed his
position as commissioner of the force. The difficulty of
organizing the force under the Act was very great, it being quite
evident that our lawgivers must have been under the impres-
sion that we were plaster saints, not Canadians of blood and
brain, with a number of the peculiarities and weaknesses of
poor human nature. The only punishment that could be
awarded was by fine, and strange to relate the pay of aU N.C.O.'s
from senior to junior was the same. This, of course. Colonel
French had rectified during the next session of parhament, but
he could not get everything put right, and it was not until
two years later that the officers were given proper disciplinary
powers over the force, which in every respect had more the
characteristics of a first-class cavalry regiment than those of
an ordinary rural police.
The junior officers were not successful recruiting agents ;
" tough nuts " had been enlisted without regard either to
character or physique, but this was remedied by a rigid medical
examination and the undesirables were weeded out, so that
those who were left were as fine men as any one could desire.
It had been the original intention of the government to
send out only 150 mounted police, a quite inadequate number,
for there should have been at least 1000 well-mounted men ;
but to ask for even 500 would have been considered an absurd-
ity. The needs and possibilities of the west were not under-
stood except by those on the spot, and they unfortunately
6a FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
had little weight at that time. Colonel French's representa-
tions, however, resulted in the force being increased to 300.
The work of training the force was kept up in the Stone Fort
until May. The left wing, when raised and horsed, was
stationed in the barracks at Toronto. Several new officers
were appointed : Walsh got command of " D " division ;
" E " division was later assigned to Supt. Carvell, an able
officer who had served with the southerners during the great
Civil War in the United States. Horses were purchased in
Ontario and Quebec to make our strength up to our require-
ments. We had purchased very good mounts from the Hon.
James Mackay, of Deer Lodge, and from Colonel Shaddock, of
Iowa, U.S.A., and arrangements were made for a few more
when the commissioner should return.
Although we had much work at Stone Fort there were
some amusements, such as baUs, parties, and rifle matches ;
but with the thermometer in the thirties below zero there was
little pleasure in shooting. There was a Quadrille Club for the
N.C.O.'s and men, but I never attended, as I much preferred
an evening either with the old settlers, who could teU me
something about the country, or in attending their dances and
weddings. I took notes of all the information I received, and
was pretty weU acquainted with the customs of the Indians,
hunters and traders before I left Fort Garry.
During the winter a grand ball was given by the sergeants of
Lt.-Col. Irvine's corps at Winnipeg, to which I was invited.
The day was cold when two of us, mounted on Colonel Shad-
dock's horses, rode to Winnipeg. In spite of the fact that we
had a head wind and the mercury stood 20 below zero the
ride on the trained American trotter was one of the warmest
that I have yet experienced. The seat was the military one,
which all soldiers practised, every stride raising us several
inches off the saddle and bringing us down with a bump which
would have been fatal to any one with a weak heart. The ball
was held in the new barracks and was a great success.
When the Queen's birthday came round athletic sports
were held in a pleasant little park not far from the Stone Fort.
The principal feature was a cricket match between a local eleven
captained by Thomas Sinclair, an old settler, and one of the
OUR HORSES STAMPEDE 63
force captained by Constable Tetu. He and Killaly, of the
Mounted Police, were a great acquisition, both having played
against W. G. Grace's eleven during his tour in 1872.
On June 7, 1874, the detachment of the Mounted Pohce
left Stone Fort with considerable regret, but with high hopes.
We were now under the command of Major Macleod, who had
been promoted to assistant commissioner on June i. I was
placed in charge of all arrangements for the march, encamp-
ments, etc., and directed to carry out these to the best of my
abihty until we should arrive at Dufferin, near Pembina,
North Dakota, where we awaited the arrival of the commis-
sioner and the three divisions from Toronto, which he had
obtained permission to move through the United States
on accoimt of the difificulties of the Dawson route. On the
19th they encamped beside us. They corralled their horses
inside a ring of loaded wagons, where they were secured to the
picket lines. Our horses, mostly bronchos, were kept at
their old lines, a fortunate circumstance, as was afterwards
proved.
The left wing was composed of a fine, carefully selected and
well-educated body of men with exceptionally good horses.
These were all over fifteen and a half hands, with almost
perfect forms, and were admitted in Toronto to be the best
ever shipped from that city. But they were soon to have a
hard time, and their perfect forms were reduced to living
skeletons.
About ten on the following night a terrific thunderstorm
burst upon us, the worst that I had seen in the west since 1870.
I was riding near the large corral at the time, the incessant
flashes of lightning making every object visible for a long
distance. A thunderbolt fell in the midst of the horses.
Terrified, they broke their fastenings and made for the side of
the corral. The six men on guard were trampled underfoot
as they tried to stop them. The maddened beasts overturned
the huge wagons, dashed through a row of tents, scattered
ever5rthing, and made for the gate of the large field in which
we were encamped. In their mad efforts to pass they cUmbed
over one another to the height of many feet. At the time
Constable Colman had just cleared the gate with his team,
64 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
which ran away at its utmost speed ; but the powerful driver
hung on to the reins and brought them to a hah in about
half a mile. The stampede continued south over the Pembina
bridge. Crazed with fright, the horses crossed the river
and continued their flight on the opposite bank, and the
majority were between 30 and 50 miles in Dakota before they
were compelled by sheer exhaustion to halt.
I shall never forget that night. I had full view of the
stampede, being not more than 50 yards from the horses as
they rushed at the gate and attempted to pass it, scrambling
and rolling over one another in one huge mass. This and the
unceasing flashes of lightning, the rolling of the thunder,
the loud shouts of the troopers as they vainly attempted to
stop the horses and the mad gallop of Colman's team, gave to
it a weird and romantic complexion, typically suggestive of
the wild west.
Our bronchos and Shaddock's horses came in now that the
other steeds had taken flight. We started after the runaway
horses the next morning, covering over 100 miles during the
following twenty-four hours. The fugitives were brought in
with only one missing. When they reached camp several
of them lay down and rested for some days.
This stampede had such an effect on the horses that for
the remainder of the summer they were ready to repeat the
performance on hearing the slightest unusual sound, and every
thunderstorm brought us out of our tents at night, and in the
dajrtime we had to be amongst them to calm their fears.
As soon as we were equipped there were parades to test us.
The Sioux Indians in Dakota gave us an opportunity one day.
They raided an American village near the border, and took
some scalps. The alarm coming to the commissioner, we were
turned out ; the horses were grazing more than a mile off,
and at the sound of " boot and saddle " they were driven in
and we were off in twenty-five minutes to the south west,
in case the force could be of any assistance to the poor people,
but when we had gone some distance news came that the
redskins had decamped. These Indians had been on the
warpath for some time, and when our horses stampeded
into Dakota there were fears that if we did not hurry to get
WESTWARD HO! 65
them back into Canada we should have them run off with by
the Sioux.
We left Dufferin on July 8. The first camp was merely a
"pull out," commonly called for many years a "Hudson's
Bay Start," very necessary so that before finally launching
into the unknown one could see that nothing had been forgotten,
or that if one had taken too much, being so near to the base,
the mistake could be easily corrected. The column made only
10 miles the next day. It was about 2^ miles in length when
closed up, and advance and rear guard, scouts and some
jflankers were thrown out. It must have presented a curious
appearance with its motley string of ox-carts, ox- waggons,
cattle for slaughter, cows, calves, mowing machines, etc.^
At the Turtle Mountains, a range of low, partially-wooded
hills, a heavy shower of rain came on, which was followed
by a hailstorm, but this did not last very long, and the sun
came out brightly, but the pattering noise on the tents con-
tinued. This proved to be caused by the visitation of locusts,
which afflicted the province of Manitoba so sorely that year.
The air for the height of hundreds of yards was full of them,
their wings shining in the sun, and the trees, grass, flowers,
and in fact everything in sight, were covered by them. Even
the paint and woodwork of the waggons, and our carbines
were not free from their attacks, and our tents had to be
hurriedly packed away to save them from destruction. This
swarm destroyed the crops of the majority of the settlers
in the province, and seed grain had to be distributed for the
next season's crop. From the Turtle Mountains as far west
as the extremity of the path of the locusts the grass was very
scanty ; the pests came with the south west wind from their
breeding grounds on the great plains. Fortunately their
path did not cover the country beyond the Moose Mountains.
On July 23 the force was halted at Riviere des Lacs, near the
Hill of the Murdered Scout, a forbidding spot not far from the
* Colonel French's report of this occasion stated that :'. "To a
stranger it would have appeared an astonishing cavalcade, armed
men and guns looked as if fighting was to be done. What could
ploughs, harrows, mowing machines, cows, calves, etc., be for 7 But
that little force had a double duty to perform, to fight if necessary,
but in any case to establish posts in the far west."
F
66 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
border. The hill is named on account of a story, the truth of
which can be vouched for. A Cree scout in his search for his
enemies perceived a Mandan ascend the hill on the same
errand and, having taken a survey of the horizon, lie down and
sleep. The Cree then approached the spot with the usual
stealth of the redman and killed him. He cut in the hard clay
with his hunting knife the shape of the Mandan 's footsteps,
of his own where he crept up the hill, and that of the murdered
scout's body where he lay asleep. Although the occurrence
had taken place many years previously every mark was as
clear when we visited the spot as when made, and no doubt
can be traced to this day, the clay being almost as hard as
brick, and not likely to be much affected by the rainfall.
Riviere des Lacs was the scene of a good joke on one of our
most active divisional commanders. During the march the
commissioner had caused the divisions to take turns in leading
the column, that each might take their share of the dust.
Later he directed that the first ready to march would move
at the head. This inspired our hero to turn out his men before
reveille that morning that he might be ready to move off
before any of us were up. The noise made, though purposely
suppressed as much as possible, woke me and I hurriedly
dressed, horrified lest I had overslept myself, I was much
relieved, however, to hear the trumpet call a few minutes
later, but the others were in their saddles and the drivers in
their seats ready to trek. It was no doubt a great disappoint-
ment to their commander to be ordered to have his men
dismount and stand easy until all were ready to pull out.
We were the first, but he was permitted to move off before us.
He had trusted to watering his horses at a lake on one side
of the trail. When he arrived opposite it, he outspanned his
teams and moved towards it in hopes that he would have
finished watering before the remainder would have time to
pass him, but he was still on his way to the lake and not half-
way there when we passed his waggons. He had forgotten
how deceptive distances are on these high plains.
At St. Peter's springs we found only a group of dirty mud
holes, so had to set to work to make several wells. Sawing
barrels in half, we bored holes in the bottoms of them, and set
A CONVOY OF CROCKS 67
them in the spring, and soon had them running over with line
clear water.
At Short Creek, on the banks of the Souris, by La Roche
Percee, " A " division under Inspector Jarvis left the rest of the
train, to proceed to Fort Edmonton via Forts Ellice and Carlton,
a distance of 875 miles by trail. The commissioner was
compelled to transfer the majority of the men and all of our
horses except the officers' chargers to other divisions, and
Jarvis received in their stead the quartermaster and several
of the youngest and weakest men, 55 sick and almost played-out
horses recovering from a severe attack of epizootic, 24 waggons,
55 ox-carts with 12 drivers, 62 oxen, 50 cows and 50 calves
to help us on to Fort Ellice.
The commissioner with the main force left La Roche Perc6e
on July 29. We were a disconsolate lot when we saw the
force depart on their long trek, but we had a much harder
time before us than any experienced that year. There were
no oats for the horses, although they had never before done
work on grass alone. Erroneous reports of travellers in the
northern part of the prairie region had been made to the effect
that horses could do 40 miles a day on grass. The people
forgot to say that they had ridden and driven on horseback
and in buck-boards with a herd of acclimatized native ponies
driven behind them, and none of them were obliged to be
under saddle or in harness for more than a couple of hours
in the day at most.
We remained in camp getting everything put in shipshape
order until August 3, when we started for Fort EUice. Every
man, including the sick, was employed. The latter drove
teams, and as we went on improved in health. We had a
bad time of it for several days after we left La Roche Percee,
the horses being so weak that they had to be changed twice
both forenoon and afternoon to enable our little force to make
8 miles a day, and the cows and the calves became so footsore
that they would lie down every few yards unless a goad were
constantly applied. The guide was able to keep ahead of the
transport at a slow walk, leading his little pony and cart. The
cart train and the yoke oxen followed, while we drove the
herd of cows and calves before us. The country over which
68 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
we passed, now covered with fine farms and comfortable
homes, was gently undulating and luxuriant with grass, which
caused our horses and cattle to show signs of returning vigour.
We reached Fort Ellice on August 14. It was a large
fenced enclosure, with the usual style of dwelhngs and stores,
and stood on the bank of the Assiniboine about 300 feet
above the river, surrounded by bluffs of aspen and poplar.
The valley, which is more than a mile wide, was very pretty,
partly timbered, and there were occasional grassy bottoms
on which large herds of ponies, many of them pintos (piebald),
and numbers of cattle were grazing. Our horses and cattle
were turned out on the flats, and as there were quicksands in
different places we had a good deal of practice hauling them out
of those death traps, which the Indian ponies knew enough
to avoid.
On August 18 we pulled out from Fort Ellice towards the
west, leaving behind us the quartermaster, the sick men, half
of the cows and calves, a large quantity of provisions and stores
and several horses, which were not in good enough condition
to be brought with us.
Our stock had now recovered their strength, and, as we
had not enough men to furnish night herders, they wandered
considerable distances. As we did not know the ground, the
round up took us a considerable time. One morning I jumped
a fine creek with grassy banks, and found my horse up to the
neck in a shaking bog with a tough sod on top and quicksand
beneath. Fortunately the horse must have been in such a place
before, as he did not exhaust himself with vain struggles. He
. took things easily and waited till I called him to come, which
I lost no time in doing. I had, as one should always do in a
quicksand, thrown myself face downwards, and strugghng as
if swimming, took the lead, and the horse when called made a
plunge forward, and resting for a second, gathered himself
for another effort until we were extricated from our predica-
ment. I noticed afterwards that this horse and another which
was always with him and had the same colour and marks
avoided all soft places when they were turned out to graze.
There was one man, the shortest man in the force, who
was noted amongst us for his hearty appetite, which, on
A PRODIGIOUS APPETITE 69
account of the quantities of game which fell to our guns,
he was able to indulge to the fullest extent. Stewed prairie
chickens and ducks usually formed part of the evening meal,
and after eating, in addition to his rations, at least a brace, he
would say, " I wish I were in Toronto, at Gus Thomas's English
Chop House, where I could get a porterhouse steak and a bottle
of Guinness ! " He was worth all he ate, for there was no more
useful man in the division in his own line, that of a horse trainer.
There were signs of prairie fires having run over the country
the previous autumn. These had done a good deal of damage
to the islands of poplar. At that time there were no laws
against this destruction. The Hudson's Bay Company had
no jurisdiction now, with the lamentable result that people
had become careless. Travellers left their fires burning,
tenderfeet threw matches into the grass after hghting their
pipes, Indians and the half-breed buffalo hunters wilfuUy
set the prairies on fire so that the bison would come to their
part of the country to get the rich, green grass which would
follow in the spring. Large tracts of country had been burned
every year, consequently no trees were to be found except
where the lakes and creeks were numerous enough to prevent
the fires from running.
A change was soon to come over this, however ; ordinances
were passed and rigidly enforced, with beneficial results ;
but there is much to be done to prevent the dreadful waste
of timber in forested parts of the country, where milHons of
dollars' worth have been destroyed. In the Rocky Mountains
the mischief has been chiefly caused by railroad engines,
careless travellers, prospectors and green hunters. Steps are
now being taken to conserve the timber, and when there are
a sufficient number of foresters who know their work the
Dominion will save many millions per annum.
On the Salt Plain we met several brigades of carts driven
by hunters, freighters and traders with packs of buffalo robes,
dried meat and pemmican. Inspector Jarvis bought a supply
of pemmican, which is the best food in the world for the
traveller, soldier and sailor, either on the plains of America
or in the Arctic regions. It was cooked in two ways in the
west ; one a stew of pemmican, water, flour and, if they could
70 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
be secured, wild onions or preserved potatoes. This was
called " rubaboo " ; the other was called by the plain hunters
a " rechaud." It was cooked in a frying-pan with onions and
potatoes or alone. Some persons ate pemmican raw, but I
must say that I never had a taste for it that way.
After eight long weeks of weary days we reached Fort
Carlton, Here perfect discipline existed. The offices and
stores were neat, and over each door was painted in French
and English the name of the store and office, together with the
class of goods in the buildings. After a week's rest we pulled
out of Carlton, As we left we were informed that the Blackfeet
and Crees were again on the warpath. The country through
which we went was a good stock country, but we found the cart
trail very rough with roots and stones, and the horses were now
beginning to show signs of the long march without grain.
Game was very plentiful, and the cranes, white wild geese or
wavies were in profusion, with considerable numbers of the grey
Canadian goose. Our guns and rifles were kept busy during
each halt. Corporal Carr on one occasion shooting eleven wild
geese with one barrel.
Carr was a young man of 26 years, who had been at Trinity
CoUege, and was for a considerable time assistant agent on an
Irish estate, but conditions were so distasteful that, although
he was well treated and had the shooting, he decided to
emigrate, and like a good man and true worked at anything
he could get until he had the opportunity to go west.
The evenings were fine, and the half-breed drivers had great
fun after supper. One of them had a vioHn, and to its music
the remainder in turn danced a Red River Jig on a door which
they carried in their carts for the purpose. Tired of ducks,
geese, prairie chickens and pemmican, these strange fellows
caught skunks, boiled them in three waters and then roasted
them, thinking them preferable to any other food 1
Our 0,C, was a great favourite with all. When in the
evening they sat round the camp-fires, he would tell amusing
yams of his experiences in South Africa during the Kaffir
wars in the fifties, I took mental notes of all that he told us
about the customs of the country, and found it useful when I
served there many years after.
A DESPERATE FIGHT 71
One morning as we were struggling up a hill, we found that
one of the teams was in difficulties. The driver was a most
original chap hailing from Belfast, where he had been educated
by two careful maiden aunts and had lived for many years.
In his recitals of experiences he always dated events from
outbreaks that had occurred in Belfast. For instance, " It
was just before the '65 riots," or " that was just one month after
the '69 riots." He always took notes in his diary if anyone
used strong language, happily a rare occurrence, but he
omitted nothing. On this particular occasion the fiery temper
of our good O.C. showed itself in a tirade of lurid expressions,
many of which were said to have been learned while he was
on the staff of a celebrated general, whose name shall go
down to posterity as long as Britain lasts, and of whom it
is said that when an exalted personage asked if he had taken
over command at Aldershot yet, he received the reply, " Oh,
yes, he swore himself in yesterday 1 " This our comrade could
not stand. Here was a chance which must not be overlooked,
so he jumped off the seat of the waggon, went down on one
knee and entered the words in full ! The O.C. had passed on
by this time, and did not hear the roar of laughter that greeted
the incident.
Horse Hill, close to Turtle River, was, a few years previous
to our visit, the scene of a desperate fight between the Crees
and Blackfeet. The Crees were encamped near the foot of the
hill when a party of Blackfeet, who had recently made a
successful raid, discovered them and charged. The Crees
were waiting for them, and sent a large body of warriors
round the hill at full speed, and they drove the Blackfeet into
the ravine, where they were surrounded. Many escaped,
but the plunder was retaken and, remarkable to relate, 40
horses were killed. The Blackfeet Indians were always noted
for reckless daring. Long acquaintance with them has taught
me that they are the most straightforward and least crafty of
the plain Indians. There are many tales to prove that this
is their character. Sometimes they wiU exercise strategy,
but often no more than the average white, who to the Indian
is simphcity itself.
From now on the trouble with our tired horses and oxen
72 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
increased. Heavy rains had fallen, reducing the trails to a
deplorable state, and the poor horses in the waggons staggered
along with marvellous pluck. They suffered much more than
the oxen and, as the nights became colder, when they lay down
to rest the unfortunate brutes became so stiff that they could
not rise without help, and I had to call the men up many times
during the night to lift them by main force and rub their
stiffened limbs to restore the circulation. This occurred so
often that the men themselves became exhausted from fatigue
and want of sleep.
To add to our troubles, some of the teams would be hours
behind the leaders, and we who were in the rear with the
cattle and worn-out horses, had to stay and help them along.
Axes and spades were in constant demand to repair the numer-
ous bad spots on the trail, long stretches of which were under
water, often for hundreds of yards. There is a saying that
Canadians are born with an axe in their hands, and the way
everyone used his on this trek proved to me its truth. In the
rear our party were obhged to walk all the time ; our horses
could carry us no longer. The loose ones we were driving
would sometimes fall, and be unable to rise. Carr and I,
with a pole under the brisket, had to hft the wretched
brutes to their feet while the shoeingsmith assisted to steady
them.
At last, however, we reached Victoria, a Company's post
with a pahsaded enclosure, situated on a narrow ridge along
the Saskatchewan. There was a mission founded by the
Rev. George McDougall, one of the pioneers of the Methodist
church, and round the fort and on the river bank clustered
the thatched log houses of the Scotch and Enghsh half-breeds
who had followed him to the place. These people made a
living by hunting buffalo, fishing and freighting. They sowed
their crops in the spring, and never saw them again until
harvest. If the crops failed it did not matter, for the distance
to the herds of buffalo was not far, and the numerous lakes
of white fish were near at hand, Whitefish Lake Mission being
located about 60 miles north of Victoria.
We enjoyed the halt here among the good people of the
settlement. The Cree Indians who had recently come in to
AN AWFUL NIGHT 73
trade at the fort came to see and wonder at us. One of them
was known by the breathless title of " Sky-Blue-Hom-Sitting-
Down-Turning-Round-On-A-Chair ! " Before we left Victoria
the O.C. made arrangements to leave the cows, calves and
weak oxen there for the winter months, under a contract
with one of the settlers at 15 dollars a head for oxen and cows
and 10 dollars each for calves.
Our progress from here to Edmonton was slow and
the going very difficult. Our loose horses very often fell,
one fine animal being lifted bodily by Carr, the shoeingsmith,
and myself at least a dozen times by means of a pole.
The other horses had to be helped along in the same
manner until we arrived at the outspan. We had not
been halted very long when a messenger arrived from Inspector
Jarvis directing Gagnon to bring the division into Fort
Edmonton the same afternoon. Some of the horses could
not go on, and a marquee was pitched to shelter them at
night, and two men were left in charge. I inspanned the
remainder, leaving no transport behind. Gagnon went ahead
with the yoke oxen and was soon out of sight, and I pushed
on with the horse teams and had the hardest trek that I have
yet undertaken. The trail was worse than any we had encoun-
tered. It was knee-deep in black mud, sloughs crossed it
every few hundred yards, and the waggons had to be unloaded
and dragged through them by hand. Many small ponds
covered with a thin coating of ice lined the sides of the trail,
and gave us much trouble while we were engaged in unloading
the waggons. The poor animals, crazed with thirst and
feverish because of their privations, would rush to the ponds
to drink, often falUng and having to be dragged out with
ropes from where they fell. One of the men would hold up
their heads while I placed the hitch. It mattered not how
often they were watered, the same performance had to be gone
through time after time.
Determined to carry out my orders to get to Fort Edmonton,
which was only 12 miles on, I kept my wiUing men going in
spite of the darkness, which frequently caused us to miss the
trail. On one occasion the ambulance driver, who was ahead,
took his team out into an extensive marsh covered by thin
74 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
ice for several hundred yards until the increased depth of
water warned him of his mistake.
This struggle to obey orders continued until five o'clock
the following morning, when we arrived at Rat Creek, a
small stream about 4 miles from Edmonton. Gagnon was
there with the two ox teams which, of course, walked through
the sloughs without much difficulty. I informed him that
it was useless to continue, the men and horses having been
constantly on the move for at least 21 hours, exclusive of the
noonday halt, and they all needed rest. They appeared
to have reached the limit of their endurance. Gagnon agreed
to this, and went on to Fort Edmonton, while I had the tents
pitched, caused two rows of fires to be built of the quantities
of dry wood in the vicinity, and had the horses washed, dried
and rubbed down and turned out to graze with two herders
to watch them, while Sam Taber prepared our meal.
We had just got ready to turn in when the herders called
out that a horse was in difficulties, I seized my rope and rushed
to the spot, followed by the men, and found the animal partly
through the ice in a large, round hole with high banks, I gave
the men one end of the rope and had secured the horse by the
lasso with my usual hitch round the neck and hindquarters,
when the ice broke and horse and men sank in about ten feet
of water. The men hung on to the rope, however, and so did
I, and after a few hearty pulls we were once more on dry land.
This accident was the last. The men were sent to rest, and I
changed my clothes. As it was after six o'clock, and I was
not tired, I cut poles to make a bridge across the creek, which
was only a couple of yards wide, but awkward for the horses.
I was engaged in laying them when the O.C. arrived. He
was cheerful, expressed himself well pleased with our work, and
told me that he had secured winter quarters for us at Fort
Edmonton.
We inspanned immediately and, passing over the first dry
piece of trail, reached the fort in fairly good time. When they
sighted the welcome roofs the poor horses pricked up their
ears and made a feeble attempt to trot as we moved down the
hills. Mr. Hardisty, one of the kindest and best of men, met
us at the gate of the fort and assigned us our quarters and
■•3Ff,
1
• o
A LONG TREK 75
stabling at once. He gave the officers' mess to Inspector
Jarvis and Gagnon. The men were given a comfortable
row of houses with bunks along the walls and fire-places in
each. I had good quarters in another building, which I shared
with Carr, and our horses and cattle were provided with
stables and large corrals. Inspector Jarvis showed me his
report, very kindly stating that he was pleased with my work,,
and hoped that it would be recognized. The paragraph,
relating to the division stated: "Had it not been for the
perfect conduct of the men and real hard work, much of the
property would have been destroyed. I wish particularly ta
bring to your notice the names of Troop-Sergeant -Major
Steele and Constable Labelle. S.-M. Steele has been untiring
in his efforts to assist me, and he has also performed the manual
labour of at least two men. The attention paid to the horses
by Constable LabeUe has saved many of them."
The distance covered by the division since it left Fort Garry
amounted to 1,255 miles.
We had parted from Colonel French at La Roche Percee
on July 29. His march need not be related at length. They
went via Wood End depot, across Long River and Dirt Hill
to Old Wives' Lakes, and on to Old Wives' Creek, where they
rested several days. At Cypress Hills they halted from
August 25 to 31, waiting for supphes which Lt.-Col. Macleod
had secured. At first he had experienced some difficulty with
the guides. Doubting their reliabihty, he had been forced to
keep a check upon them by observations taken night and
day, route sketching, and checking the distance by odometer.
On September 4 a party of Sioux Indians visited the camp-
and, as usual, showed themselves very friendly. The commis-
sioner made them presents of tea, buffalo-meat and biscuits,,
which pleased them exceedingly. The guides soon began to
show reluctance to investigate the country, knowing that
hair from the top-knots of Crees and half-breds was in much
demand among the Blackfeet, who roamed in every direction.
Buffalo were now seen in vast numbers on all sides,
moving south west, 60,000 or 70,000 being estimated from
one hill, but as the country as far as the horizon was black.
76 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
with them, no doubt this count was much under the mark.
The same extent of country has since had about 100,000 cattle
grazing on it, but they were very thinly scattered over it in
comparison to the enormous numbers of bison that there
were seen on that trek to the Sweet Grass Hills.
At Fort Benton, an important trading centre at the head
of navigation on the Missouri, and a station of the American
army, which had many posts in Montana at that time. Colonel
French received telegrams approving of his recommendation
to leave a considerable number of men in the south west of the
territory, and informing him of the decision to make Swan
River the headquarters of the force. He also engaged Jerry
Potts, a half-Scotch, half-Peigan scout and interpreter, and
made arrangements for horses, ponies and supplies for the
wing of the force estabhshed in the south west. He then
returned to the boundary trail and started on his march
eastward to the Swan River, while Lt.-Col. Macleod at the
same time set out westward for the post on Old Man's River.
Jerry Potts accompanied the latter party. He was a short,
bow-legged man, with piercing black eyes and a long straight
nose. He was silent and laconic, and people said he was a
fighter, and he looked it. He won the confidence of all ranks
the first day out, and when morning came he rode out boldly
in front of the advance guard. It was noon when the party
reached Milk River, and found him there sitting near a fat
buffalo cow which he had killed and dressed for the use of the
force. To those new to such life he appeared to know every-
thing, and their good opinion of him was confirmed when on
the second day he turned sharp to the left towards the Milk
River ridge, selected a camp ground, and then led the force
a short distance to some fine springs containing the best water
that they had tasted for many a long day.
During that night mysterious rumblings were heard, which
were explained in the morning by the sight of vast numbers
of bison. As far as the eye could see to the north west there
was a black mass moving eastward ; hundreds of them were
to be seen crowding down into the coulee to the springs.
On Jerry's advice orders were given that not a shot was to be
fired at the buffaloes in case the report of the guns might
INDIAN ORGIES ^y
stampede the great herd. The men had to crowd them back
from the springs as quietly as possible so that a sufficient
supply of water for man and beast could be obtained.
Upon the order to march being given the advance and rear
guards were not sent to their stations. The waggon train
and guns were closed up to one yard distance, the men marching
quietly alongside the train, and thus all day long they thrust
their way through the immense herd. Throughout the day
the buffalo kept very close, and sometimes a fierce young bull
would gallop along not many yards away, tossing his head
and snorting in defiance of these strange creatures in such
extraordinary garb, that he had never seen before.
The Rocky Mountains had been in full view for many days,
and they seemed like a great wall to the west. Chief Mountain,
hke a huge square block many thousands of feet in height,
reared its remarkable head through the clouds. Potts had
been telling them something of the people and conditions of
this part of the country, and all were anxious to see Whoop Up,
Slide Out, Stand Off, and other traders' posts, and to meet
those who were at the time causing so much trouble in the
north west by selling liquor to the Indians.
A specimen of the work that was going on was seen on one
side of the trail, where an Indian lay dead, his body riddled
with buUets, and Jerry Potts, when asked the cause, in his
laconic but effective way replied, " Drunk ! "
The scenes which had been enacted round Whoop Up and
other trading posts were just what might be expected when the
wild redman obtained the " fire-water." The Indians who came
to those posts to trade were soon maddened by drink, and
settled old scores and family feuds by shooting or butchering
one another in their camps or other places where they obtained
the intoxicants. When the police arrived the victims of these
orgies were to be seen lying dead in the vicinity.
The first raid on the persons engaged in this traffic was
made during the same month in which the force established
itself on the Old Man's River. Three Bulls, a prominent
Indian of the Blackfeet tribe, and later a chief, informed the
assistant commissioner that a coloured man named Bond, who
had a trading post at Pine Coulee, nearly 50 miles north of
78 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
the police camp, had given him a couple of gallons of whisky
in exchange for two of his horses. Potts obtained the necessary
information, and arranged that Three Bulls should meet
him next evening about dark on the trail to Pine Coulee.
Inspector Crozier and a small party of well-mounted men,
guided by Potts, left camp a little before dark with instructions
to seize all robes and furs of any description which he suspected
had been traded for whisky, and in addition a sufficient amount
of goods and chattels to satisfy the fines which might be imposed.
Crozier executed his task, and two days later appeared in
camp with Bond and four others in custody, all of whom had
been captured about 45 miles distant. They had waggons
laden with alcohol, 16 horses, 116 buffalo robes, and a Winches-
ter Henry magazine rifle and a Colt revolver each. The
assistant commissioner confiscated the robes, destroyed the
alcohol, fined the two principals and Bond, who was their
guide and interpreter, 200 dollars each, and the other two,
who were hired men, 50 dollars apiece. Next day a well-to-do
trader of Fort Benton came to Lt.-Col. Macleod and paid the
fines of all but Bond.
There were many raids to capture whisky outfits. These
were very exciting and almost always successful, the traders
being fined or imprisoned. Their furs and buffalo robes
obtained through the trade in whisky were confiscated and, as
the force was in need of bedding, a sufficient number was
issued for the purpose. The hides of the younger animals
were made into coats and caps, one being issued to each
member of the police.
Meanwhile the barracks were being constructed, officers
and men alike busy early and late until they were completed.
As the weather became very cold it was decided to build the
hospital and stables first, the men's quarters next, and the
officers' last. The quarters for the force were built of rough,
round cottonwood logs, placed upright in the ground, and the
roof covered with about a foot of mud ; the cracks had to be
filled with the same material. As gloves could not be worn
at that work, the men's hands hardened with the exposure,
but if the thermometer indicated 10 below zero they were
allowed to cease " mudding " and go to another job.
A POW WOW WITH INDIANS 79
While aU this was going on several chiefs of the Bloods and
Peigans paid the assistant commissioner a visit, upon his
sending them a message that he wished to speak to them.
None of the Blackfeet came until the last week of November,
when a fine looking young Indian brought a message from
a number of their chiefs. They had heard that the North
West Mounted Police were their friends, but desired to be
assured of this before they came to see him. Lt.-Col. Macleod
told the young man that he had been expecting to see the
chiefs for some time past, gave him to understand what were
the principal objects of our mission to the north west, and
made him a present of tobacco for each of the chiefs as a token
of friendship.
On December i Chapo Muxico, or Crowfoot, Chief of the
Blackfeet, came in to visit him, and a few days later all the
chiefs of the Bloods, Peigans and Blackfeet, headed by Crow-
foot, came for a pow-wow with " Stamixotokan," as they
called him on account of the bull's head over his door. Some
say they gave him this name because of the crest of the Macleods
which he had in his Glengarry cap. Upon being introduced
by the interpreter, Jerry Potts, they all shook hands and
expressed their pleasure at meeting him. They then sat down
and Jerry Potts lighted a pipe and handed it to the principal
chief, who took a few puffs and then passed it to the others.
AU remained silent and waited to hear what the white chief
had to say.
He explained to them why the government had sent the
force into the country, and gave them a general idea of the
laws that would be enforced, telling them that not only the
white men but Indians also were to be punished for breaking
them. He impressed upon them that they need not fear
being punished for what they did not know to be wrong, and
assured them that the force did not come to take away their
land, an intimation which they received with great satisfaction.
He told them that when the government wished to speak to
them, their great men would be sent to meet the chiefs of
the tribes, and that they would know the intentions of the
government before anything was done.
When the assistant commissioner had ended, Crowfoot,
8o FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
the personification of grace, rose and shook hands with the
white chief and all the white men present. Then he bared
his right arm and, with eloquent gestures and eyes flashing fire,
made a long speech, thanking the One Above who is our Chief
and the Great Mother for sending the Mounted Police to save
them from the effects of the cursed fire-water, which was
destroying their young men, and for the peace that was to
come. At the conclusion of the speech Potts interpreted it,
and Crowfoot departed, followed by the other chiefs.
When rendering the Blackfeet into English Potts was very
laconic ; but his interpretation of what Lt.-Col. Macleod said
was eloquent, and his eyes gleamed as if his soul were in it,
and as if showing that he felt that every word of it was good
for the Indians. Several of the chiefs besides Crowfoot stated
that they were dehghted at the arrival of the force, and they told
how they were being robbed and ruined by the whisky trade ;
how their wives, horses and robes were taken from them ;
how their young men were continually engaged in drunken
riots, and numbers of them shot dead ; how their horses were
gradually decreasing in numbers, so that before long they
would not have enough to chase the buffalo and would
have no means of procuring food. Now all that was to
be changed. One chief said, " Before you came the Indian
crept along, now he is not afraid to walk erect." This pow-wow
had a good effect. The war between the Blackfeet and the
Crees ceased from the time the force arrived.
The Blackfeet were a fine race, of splendid physique ; the
men taU and well formed, pleasant in their bearing and very
straightforward. The legend of Hiawatha was not known to
them, but they had one which told of a battle between a hero
who came from the east and the Great Spirit of the West Wind
who had his seat in Chief Mountain. The large stones, which
form at equal intervals a straight line from north to south
about 40 miles from the Rocky Mountains, were said to be the
missiles which the latter hurled at his enemy. The Blackfeet
were polygamous, and their wives seemed to live happily
together, and in those days chastity had a high place amongst
them. At their great spring meeting the wives went down
on one side of a long line of men, the young women and children
AN OUTRAGED AMERICAN CITIZEN 8i
on the other, to where sat the medicine man of the occasion
Each married woman received a piece of the sacred tongue,
specially prepared, and then returning to where the sun could
shine upon her, she held it up before the people, caUing all of
them to witness that she was true to her husband and children,
asking the Great Spirit to bless them and keep her virtuous
until the next great meeting.
There were many strange characters in the country at that
time who soon became acquainted with the Mounted PoUce.
One old trader had a store not far from Fort Macleod. His
trade had been largely in whisky, and when he was arrested
a great number of buffalo robes obtained in that way were
confiscated and he was fined and imprisoned. When he came
before Colonel Macleod and was convicted, he said, " Colonel,
I'U make them wires hum to Washington when I get loose 1 "
The magistrate calmly repHed, " Let them hum ! " He did
his six months ; but instead of making the wires tingle with
his messages to the President of the United States, he became
quite fond of the force, who had always treated him kindly, as
far as lay in their power. He was given leave to go once a
week to his store to see that his books were being kept correctly
and the business going on as it should, returning with a treat
of CaHfomia tinned fruit for " the boys."
Another strange character was a stalwart German who had
served under Colonel Mosby in the American Civil War.
He and his partner in the robe trade, a Spaniard, had quarrelled.
One night, returning from an inspection of the stables, he looked
through the window and detected his amiable Spanish friend
going to bed with a large knife under his piUow. "Dutch,"
as the German was nicknamed, entered the cabin, picked up
a heavy gun barrel which had been in use as a poker and broke
his partner's head with it. He then departed hastily for Fort
Macleod and confessed to the assistant commissioner that he
had killed his partner in self-defence, which he no doubt had,
for had he not made such good use of the poker the Spaniard's
knife would have put an end to him. He was allowed to go,
with orders to come before the court when called upon.
Peace now reigned in the Old Man's River country. The
war amongst the Indians had ceased with the arrival of the
82 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
force. The whisky trade was dead in every part of the north
west, and a more peaceable community could not be found in
any part of Canada. Large numbers of Indians encamped
near the fort for weeks at a time, exchanging their robes for
the goods in the stores. Thousands of horses, the produce
of the whisky trade, had gone out of the territory, and the
Indians were now busy buying all that they could get and
would sell none. Before the arrival of the force, gates and
doors were fastened at night. The Indians' passion for
whisky was so great that they could not be kept out of the
traders' stores, and even when friendly to the traders of the
fire-water, they would climb the roofs and find their way down
the chimneys to steal it.
When Colonel French reached the site for the Swan River
barracks he found to his amazement that the barracks were
being erected on a high hill covered with huge granite boulders
which were firmly embedded in the ground. To add to his
chagrin, the prairie fires had burned half the hay, and the
Hudson's Bay Company had lost 300 loads which the Mounted
Police might have purchased, and there was no more to be had.
Good work had been done on the barracks considering the
late start, but machinery had to be hauled from Winnipeg,
more than 300 miles, over a very bad trail, consequently the
buildings were not nearly ready for occupation. He left one
division there, and with the rest went on to Winnipeg. There
the men had to sleep in the lofts of stables until authority was
received for them to winter at Dufferin barracks, which the
Royal Engineers had vacated the same autumn, after com-
pleting the survey of the international boundary. In his
annual report, made in January, Colonel French wrote :
For the credit of the Dominion and humanity, it was abso-
lutely necessary that a stop be put to the disgraceful scenes
which were daily enacted on the Bow and Belly rivers and in
the Cypress Hills. The immense distance to those places and
the shortness of the season for operations necessitated a
mounted force being dispatched. The Mounted Police were
being organized for the preservation of law and order in the
North West Territories, but consisted of about 120 men and
AN INDEFATIGABLE FORCE 83
50 horses at the time this expedition was contemplated.
Nevertheless it was decided with very good reasons that the
work of establishing law and order where all was lawlessness
and violence should be entrusted to the Mounted Police.
Tied down by no stringent rules or articles of war, but only
by the silken cord of a civil contract, these men by their
conduct gave Httle cause for complaint, though naturally
there were several officers and constables unaccustomed to
command and having Uttle experience of tact, yet such an
event as striking a superior was unknown and disobedience of
orders very rare.
Day after day on the march, night after night on picket or
guard, and working at high pressure during four months from
daylight until dark with httle rest, even on the day sacred to
rest, the force ever pushed onward, delighted when occasionally
a pure spring was met with. There was still no complaint
when salt water or the refuse of a mud hole was the only liquid
available, and I have seen this whole force obliged to drink
liquid which when passed through a filter was still the colour
of ink. The fact of horses and oxen dying for want of food
never disheartened or stopped them, but pushing on on foot
with dogged determination they carried through the service
required of them under difficulties which can only be appreci-
ated by those who witnessed them.
Where time was so valuable there could be no halting on
account of weather, the greatest heat of the July sun or the
cold of November in this northern latitude made no difference ;
ever onward had to be the watchword, and an almost un-
interrupted march had to be maintained from the time the
force left Dufferin with the thermometer 95 to 100 degrees in
the shade, until the remainder of the force returned there in
November, the thermometer marking 20 to 30 degrees below
zero, having marched 1,959 miles.
Thus ended the Mounted Pohce march of 1874-5, the longest
on record of a force carrying its supplies. So well was the work
of that year performed in every part of that vast country where
the presence of the force was required that in a very few months
the situation was under our control.
CHAPTER VI
Edmonton — English Charley — The police ball' — Whisky runners —
Bufialo Lake camp — Our first mail — Fort Saskatchewan — I ant
appointed chief constable at Swan River — My journey — Indian
piety — Gabriel Dumont — The law of the plains — Buffalo hunts. —
The manufacture of pemmican' — Its excellence' — ^The building of
the barracks at Swan River — ^The personnel of the N.W.M.P.
— ^The work of the force — Its high standard — Its equipment —
Colonel French's resignation — Our presentation to him.
SHORTLY after we had got settled at Fort Edmonton,
Mr. Donald Macleod arrived by the same trail by which
we had come from Fort Ellice. He was a fine fellow,,
one of the characters of the early days of the north west.
His house was always open to his friends and neighbours, and
every one liked him. One of the men who during the winter
would always be seen in his chimney corner, smoking or frying
buffalo steaks for the numerous guests, was an old placer
miner, known as EngUsh Charley. He had made good-sized
fortunes, and lost them, in every mining camp from Cahfomia
in '49 to Caribou in the early sixties. He came to a halt at
the age of sixty-five with his old comrade Scotch Charley, and
together they worked on the gold bars of the Saskatchewan,
near Edmonton, where they washed out fine gold in a machine
called a " grizzly," or prospected up the river as far as the
mountains until the storms of winter compelled them to desist.
When winter closed in he would take refuge with the kind-
hearted Donald and other hospitable pioneers. Scotch Charley
died before we came west ; his loss nearly broke the warm
heart of his old comrade, but he never lost faith and beUeved
that there was a great fortune in store for him in the
mysterious recesses of the great range, but the poor fellow
did not live to see his dream of wealth come true.
On the approach of Christmas Inspector Jarvis gave me
permission to get up a ball in the fort, as it was thought to be
84
A BALL IN THE NORTH WEST 85
a good thing to introduce ourselves to the people in the settle-
ment and to return some of the hospitality which we had
received. A meeting was held and all voted a month's pay
towards the dance. Chief Factor Hardisty gave us the use of
a large store-house, in which there was an enormous fire-place,
and loaned all the crockery and other table necessaries required
for the feast. Large quantities of fresh buffalo tongues, himips
{or " boss ribs," as they were called), buffalo hind quarters,
venison, prairie chickens and wild geese were purchased, and
the chef, Sam Taber, with his assistants, was set to work to
make plum-puddings and mince-pies, for which there was an
ample supply of material in the Company's store.
Invitations were sent to every settlement and every hunters'
or traders' camp for 100 miles round, and on the appointed
day, Christmas Eve, the guests began to arrive and were put
up in the fort and in the neighbouring houses. First, they
were entertained to supper and a dance, which lasted until
nearly morning. The next day after breakfast the company
went to church ; then came the dinner, presided over by
Inspector Jarvis and Sub-Inspector Gagnon. The Queen's
health was drunk in good tea, the beverage of the north west
in those days, and after the repast dancing was resumed with
-vigour to the hvely music of several viohns.
The Red River Jig, Lord Macdonald's Reel, the Eight Hand
Reel and other dances were aU performed to very fast music.
The men sat on one side of the room and the women and girls
on the other, and, when the fiddlers had finished the prehminary
tuning up and scraping, one of the men advanced to the centre
of the room, gazed at the partner of his choice, closed his right
hand and pointed at her with his thumb, whereupon, no matter
■what her wishes in the matter might be, she placed herself
beside him and he took her hand. The jig struck up forthwith,
and the couple took a few steps forward and back, dropped
hands and, facing one another, stepped to the music, usually
with great skill, now and then reheved or cut out by others.
If the man were conceited or a fooUsh person the men let him
■dance until his hmbs almost refused to move and the perspira-
tion roUed off his face in streams, while if he were a favourite
-he was allowed sufiicient to satisfy him. When the dance
86 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
was over breakfast was served, and all went home, after expres-
sing their delight at the entertainment which had been offered
them.
During the first week in January Inspector Jarvis learned
that an illicit whisky outfit was en route from Belly River to the
large buffalo hunters' camp at Buffalo Lake to trade with the
half-breed hunters and Indians. He made up a party com-
posed of my brother Dick, Carr, myself and ten men. We
hired a dog-train and ponies and set off, the weather being very
cold. As we proceeded the cold increased, our thermometer
indicating from 42 to 56 below zero for 15 days, the severest
weather known for at least thirty years, according to the
Company's records.
We took no tents, as we were better without them, and we
had no stoves, such luxuries being then unknown in the west.
Our halts for the night were made about an hour before dark,
so that the ponies could be made snug and a large quantity of
firewood cut. The snow was then shovelled away, a large
fire built, buffalo robes laid down, and after a supper of buffalo
steak, bread and tea, we lay in front of the fire hke herrings in
a barrel and slept well.
We arrived at Buffalo Lake after dark, and were searching
amongst the four hundred cabins to find John Ashon's store
when we heard the sound of dance music and directed our steps
to a large log cabin in which a lively wedding dance was going
on. Two rows of young men and women were on the floor
footing Lord Macdonald's Reel to the most rapid time possible,
as was the custom among the hunters. Inspector Jarvis
and I entered the room and were directed to Ashon's place,
where we received a hearty welcome.
We remained four days in the camp and enjoyed the novelty
of the situation. Mrs. Ashon, a young woman about twenty
years of age, took good care that we should not suffer from
starvation, for she kept the fire going and the pot boiUng the
whole time. The intervals between meals are very short, for
every now and then we would be asked to " draw in " and
despatch buffalo tongues, bannocks, strong tea and tinned
fruits.
Inspector Jarvis did much to obtain intelligence from all
THE SLAUGHTER OF THE BUFFALO 87
parts of the country, which he caused to be visited for at least
100 miles to the south, east and west, and as the hunters and
traders liked to talk we kept their tongues wagging. We
secured a great deal of information of all sorts which was
afterwards of good use to us.
To the south between Buffalo Lake and the Hand Hills,
vast numbers of buffalo covered the country, and, although the
snow was deep, made a good Uving off the grass, until the new
crops came in the spring. Many buffalo were killed and the
robes bartered for by the Company and the free traders. ^
White hunters were few in number, but when they went to
hunt for the purpose of obtaining a supply of fresh meat, they
committed the most wanton destruction, killing enough for a
whole settlement or a regiment of soldiers. They were, as a
rule, poor horsemen, and did their hunting on foot. Con-
cealed in a bluff of timber, or behind a snow drift, they would
shoot down hundreds without the poor animals having a chance
to see the direction from which the shots came.
The Metis and Indians gave the buffalo a chance for its life ;
they were splendid horsemen, the equal of any in the world,
and killed the game from the saddle, a dangerous operation in
the winter, owing to the numerous badger holes concealed by
the snow. The most successful of the half-breed hunters
during that winter was Abraham Salois, who kiUed 600 ; in
one run 37 fell to his rifle, no doubt the best on record.
Shortly after our return to the fort, the Company's packet
came in with the first mail for us since July 8. It contained
news of the rest of the force and general orders, which assigned
rewards to a number of N.C.O.'s and men. I was fortunate
enough to be one of the number mentioned for *' upright and
conscientious discharge of duty." The commissioner, under
the Act, was supposed to have the power to distribute such
marks of appreciation, but after 1875, in spite of the remarkable
services of the force, the custom was more honoured in the
breach than in the observance, nearly all the fund being dis-
tributed evenly throughout the division, for the purchase of
* Men who had completed a term of service with the Company and
then went trading on their own account were known as " free "
traders.
88 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
newspapers, games, etc. Perhaps this was the best way, as
no member of the force worked any the less conscientiously
on account of there being no prospect of individual reward.
The remainder of the winter of 1874-5 passed off quietly
enough at Fort Edmonton. We had only one party of visitors
from the west, Mr. E. W. Jarvis and his assistant civil engineer,
who came from Fort George, British Columbia, across the
Rocky Mountains, looking for a pass for the Canadian Pacific
Railway. The surveys for this had been going on in the
north and west through the Yellowhead Pass for some years
without any route having been decided upon. The trip was a
hard one on snow shoes, the party subsisting part of the time
on rabbits, the only game seen in the mountains. A few days'
rest at Edmonton was a great relief, particularly to Mr. E. W.
Jarvis, who in our O.C. met a cousin whom he had not seen
for years.
Another mail came in during the winter with orders from the
commissioner for our commanding officer to prepare to build
barracks for us on a site to be selected on the right or south
bank of the Saskatchewan, anywhere between the present fort
and Sturgeon Creek, some 25 miles east. These instructions
were soon known and a deputation of the people of the settle-
ment came to Inspector Jarvis with blood in their eyes to
interview him and to demand that the barracks should be built
at Edmonton. They did not use much tact, and they were
trying to coerce the wrong man. Our O.C. was of a fiery
temperament, and would carry out his orders as he pleased,
and was the last man to let himself be browbeaten. I have
no doubt that if the settlers had let him alone he would have
built the new post on the opposite side of the river. As it was,
he chose a position 20 miles east, where he thought there would
be a good railway crossing.
The site selected was a good one, but very inconvenient at
that time, being quite out of the fine of travel by trail. The
ground opposite Edmonton was equally good and in other
respects better, but at that time, one must remember, the
preliminary survey of the CP.R. passed 40 miles south, at a
point known as the Hay Lakes, and crossed the Saskatchewan
many miles west of Fort Edmonton, thus giving the impres-
THE BUILDING OF A FORT 89
sion that the main line would not touch Edmonton. Inspector
Jarvis had quite a different opinion, however. He knew that
Edmonton had a name already, and had large quantities of
coal beneath the fort, in veins which extended and improved
all the way up the river for many miles, but he knew that the
crossing at the new site was easier and beheved that a good
town would spring up there in the future, as well as at Edmon-
ton, which should have had a through hne 25 years ago.
In April, 1875, we set to work to build our new quarters.
The men's building was 90 feet by 22 feet, whilst the officers'
quarters were of a size suitable for two or three. To these
were added a guard-room and stables.
We made our own shingles, raised the walls, put on the
roof, a new experience to many ; but a few of us had been bred
in the rural districts in the east, where every boy in those days
was supposed to have an axe in his hands within a few weeks
of his birth, and where, in the early days of our boyhood, retired
army and navy officers might have been seen on the roofs of
their log bams, shingling them or handspiking at the log heaps
to make homes for their sons. So there were we teaching ex-
graduates and Irish land agents' sons to place shingles.
Our food at this time consisted of pemmican and mountain
trout. The smallest trout weighed 5^^ lbs., and many were over
12 lbs. These fish have a flavour quite equal to salmon, but
one does not so soon tire of them. As an addition to our larder
large quantities of wild duck eggs were obtained from the
shores of the lakes in the Beaver Hills, to the south of our post,
and an old Indian moose-hunter, who hved in the hills, brought
us quantities of game in exchange for flour and tea. The
favourite was beaver, which when roasted is deUcious food.
In July the Company's steamer Northcote arrived on her
maiden trip, the first steamer to navigate the Saskatchewan.
She brought great quantities of mails for our division, the first
mail of any consequence since we left our camp at Dufferin
more than a year before. Amongst the official correspondence
received were the general orders of the force, one of which
was to the effect that I was to proceed to Swan River to take
the position of Chief Constable, to which I had been promoted,
to replace Chief Constable Griesbach, who had been appointed
90 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
sub-inspector. I had to start for Swan River at once. I was
sorry to leave the division and my kind O.C, but the orders
were imperative and all arrangements had been made for my
successor to come from Fort Macleod.
I had pleasant companions on the Northcote, and the time
passed quickly. Joe Favel, the pilot, had been for years on
the Mississippi and Missouri, which he had found difficult at
times. The Missouri, he asserted, was not so good a stream
as the North Saskatchewan. He had toiled on the river for
years before, and the change from " tracking " from the mouth
to Edmonton was very agreeable to him ; he knew every stone,
bar and shallow in the river.
The steward was a character worth studying, a French Metis
with the aristocratic name of Xavier de Mont-Ferron. This
cognomen was a puzzle to the chief engineer, who substituted
" Mor-fe-daw," which did not matter to Xavier, who came
with alacrity when called.
At the Grand Rapids we were to be met by a new steamer
from Lower Fort Garry, but there was no sign of it, and ere
long our bill of fare consisted of fat sturgeon and tea alone,
other supplies having run out. Eventually, two large boats,
manned by Indians, arrived from Norway House at the head
of the lake, and as they were bound for Lower Fort Garry, I
took passage by one and left the next afternoon.
On Lake Winnipeg we ran into a headwind so strong that
we had to turn into a little creek and wait for a change. It kept
up for several days, and as we had only a few pounds of flour
we were soon out of rations and had to shoot seagulls. These
and tea were all we had to keep us from starving. At last the
wind changed, and we lost no time in setting sail across the
lake.
At the mouth of Berens River there was a Company's post,
and here we procured a small supply of pemmican, tea and
flour, sufficient, with economy, to last us until we reached the
Stone Fort, now better known as Lower Fort Garry.
We sailed wing and wing down the lake, from point to point,
and, when meal time came, landed to cook our stew of pemmican
and flour and boil our tea, and when the kettles were on the
fire we all knelt down to pray, led by the chief pilot, if both
INDIAN PIETY 91
boats could get berthed in the same cove ; if not, each pilot
led his own crew in fervently delivered prayer. When the
meal was cooked all hands embarked and ate it in the boats
to save loss of time.
I was naturally much impressed with the piety of the
Indians, and it had often struck me what a curious scene was
that assembly for prayer. The red-coated white in the kneeling
circle of Indians, the wild surroundings of rock, forest and
lake, the deep and impressive tones of the praying pilot lending
solemnity to it all. I shall never forget it.
Talking of red-coats, one day when I was seated beside
the chief pilot, a man of sixty or thereabouts, he looked at me
with a roguish expression, and laughingly said, " Ah 1 Soldiers
is wild mans ! " " How is that, Baptiste ? " I enquired.
*' Aha," said he, "I was one of the pilots of the soldiers who
came to Fort Garry by Hudson's Bay in 1846 (meaning the
6th Warwicks under Colonel Crofton), and when we ascended
one of the rapids one of the soldiers was drowned, but that made
no difference, in a few minutes all were singing as if nothing
had happened. Ah, soldiers is wild mans 1 "
On our way through the narrows of the lake we saw a light
passing, which proved to be that of the new steamboat on her
way to meet the Northcoie at the Grand Rapids. She was
very much behind time, and I was fortunate in more ways
than one in taking passage with the Indians.
We arrived at Lower Fort Garry in three or four days
from Berens River, and there I parted from my Indian friends
with much regret. I should have liked to sail, fish or hunt
with them all the summer long.
Next morning I decided to walk to Winnipeg, as the distance
was but 22 miles. I took my room, on arrival, at the Grand
Central Hotel, and next morning reported to the Mounted
Police supply officer, a somewhat peppery old gentleman who
did not receive me with urbanity. He read my credentials
from Inspector Jarvis, which stated that I was en route to
Swan River barracks on promotion. The latter word did not
seem to please him, for he gazed disapprovingly at me, sa5ang,
" Take care you do not get the Irishman's hoist 1 " Being
disciphned I made no remark, but spoke cheerfully about
^2 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
the trip in such a way that he seemed sorry for his out-
burst of temper, and promised me transport in a few days.
In the meantime I called at the sergeants' mess of the
battalion on duty at Fort Osborne, where I found several
old friends.
The next afternoon I left for Swan River with the teams
of the Public Works Department carrying artisans and suppUes
for the men employed there. The weather was fine, with the
exception of a hailstorm near Fort EUis, which lasted but a
few minutes, and I found the men very kindly, cheerful fellows,
most of them from my own county in Ontario.
I noticed on this trip that a great change was taking place
beyond Portage la Prairie, 60 miles west of Winnipeg. Home-
steads had begun to dot the prairie at intervals as far as the
" Beautiful Plains," 100 miles west, most of the new settlers
being from Huron and Bruce, Ontario.
On my arrival at Swan River the adjutant and Colonel
French gave me a hearty welcome and promised me plenty of
work.
I then learned that the commissioner and a party of 50
officers and men had been at Carlton the previous month, with
Major-General Sir E. Selby-Smyth, G.O.C. of the militia,
who was on an inspection tour of the north west and British
Columbia, with instructions to report on the North West
Mounted Police and other matters of importance. On his
arrival at Swan River barracks he was overtaken by Lieutenant
Cotton, of the Artillery, who brought a despatch, which caused
him, after consultation with Colonel French, to proceed to
Carlton without delay. The reason for this hurry was a report
that Gabriel Dumont, a great leader of the plain-hunters,
had set up a sort of provisional government on the banks of
the South Saskatchewan, 18 miles east of Carlton, and that
he claimed independence of the Dominion.
The general met Gabriel at Batoches crossing on the south
branch, and had a conference with him, which resulted in
clearing the air. He then passed on to Carlton, crossed the
North Saskatchewan, and continued his march west.
The true reason for aU the fuss was that Gabriel Dumont had
enforced the law of the plains on one of the band of hunters
GABRIEL DUMONT 93
to which he belonged, and of which he was virtually the chief.
Information was laid against him for assault, etc. A warrant
was issued by a local J. P., recently appointed, and an attempt
was made to arrest him, but without success. No violence
was used, however, nor were any of the pohce employed.
The law of the plains was necessary that there might be a
proper system when the large number of plain-hunters were
out . No member of the band was permitted to leave camp until
all were ready to run the buffalo, lest the herds in the vicinity
should be stampeded and the hunters have to break camp,
and make a long march before they could overtake them.
It wiU thus be observed that the law was not only necessary,
but should have been provided for when the country was taken
over by the Dominion government,
Gabriel Dumont was a remarkable Metis, who, with careful
and just treatment, might have been educated to become
one of the most loyal citizens of Canada. He was very much
of the red man, far from faultless, extravagant, never looking
out for the morrow ; but, as with his copper-coloiured relatives,
his good qualities far outweighed his bad, and he was a man
whom many leading white men were glad to call friend. An
old comrade of mine who had starved, hunted, feasted, and
worked with him, and knew him in his hours of play, joy and
sorrow, considered him one of the kindest and bravest of
men. His equal as a hunter and horseman it was difficult to
find. He was a great scout, and knew the plains as well as
a housewife knows her kitchen.
One might travel the plains from one end to the other and
talk to the Metis hunters and never hear an unkind word said
of Dmnont. He would kill bison by the score and give them
to those who were either unable to kill or had no buffalo.
Not until every poor member of the hunting-parties had his
cart filled with meat would he begin to fill his own. When
in trouble the cry of all was for Gabriel. His father and uncle,
the former known as Kanpiew, the latter as Kanhow, were
great hunters, though very old men, and were very much
respected, but all turned to Gabriel when there was any grave
crisis, the oldest paying attention to his word. He had,
however, one fault, a grave one, but common amongst the
94 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
hunters and Indians, that of gambling. Sometimes he would
play for three days on end, stopping only to eat.
The life of the plain-hunter of those days is almost forgotten,
and I shall give some account of it. I have seen a great deal,
and my experiences have been and are corroborated by others
who lived with them before the bison were exterminated.
The spring hunt began as soon as the snow had melted,
and usually continued for a month or six weeks. Then came
the summer hunt, until the middle of September, and lastly
the fall or winter hunt, which did not cease from the time the
groimd was frozen until the hunters had sufficient fresh meat
laid up to last them all the winter. This they kept frozen
either in their outbuildings constructed for the purpose in the
vicinity of their log-houses, or on stages or scaffolding erected
to keep it out of reach of the numerous dogs.
The spring hunt engaged most of the hunters, though a few
stayed at home to plant small patches of garden stuff. The
remainder who did not go hunting took to the trail with their
carts laden with prime buffalo robes, furs and pemmican
secured during the previous summer and winter hunts. They
would bring back to their homes from the Company's posts
supplies of tea, sugar, tobacco, clothing, guns, rifles and
ammunition.
The summer hunt found everybody out on the plains, young
and old. The men of the band were divided into heads,
councillors, and soldiers. The councillors met each day,
discussed matters pertaining to the hunt, the camp, etc., and
appointed a leader for the next day. His duties resembled
those of the officer of the day and commanding officer combined.
He took charge of the line of march, selected the halting-place
for noon and night ; if the band was not on the move, he
took the lead when the buffalo hunt began. For the day his
word was law. At night he called his soldiers, of whom there
were several detailed to each captain and under his orders,
who formed a corral or ring with the carts in a circle, shafts
inwards, hub to hub, into which all the horses were driven at
dusk, to be let out to graze at daybreak. Outside this defence
fires were hghted at intervals, and inside the lodges or teepees
LAW OF THE PLAINS 95
■were pitched in a circle close to the carts. The soldiers
remained on guard all night, passing from one fire to the
other, keeping them aUght and watching over the camp
generally. There was seldom any wood, and buffalo chips took
its place.
Every evening after the halt, when the corral had been
formed, an old man, the crier of the camp, made a round of
the enclosure calling out, " Oh, ho, oh, ho, le conseil ! " and
after the council had assembled and made their selection of a
leader, he would go the rounds again calling out, " Oh, ho,
les soldats ! " and they would assemble under their respective
captains. These camps were often very large, sometimes 300
or 400 lodges together, including Indians and plain-hunters.
The diameter of the corral was often as much as 1000 feet.
When a buffalo run took place, the hunters would form up
in line at intervals and canter slowly to an advantageous point,
generally to leeward and behind some rising ground, the
captain always in command. Very often they would dismount
under cover of the rise and, before making a dash, one of
the older men would repeat a prayer, all the rest responding.
After that they would mount, but no other move was made
until the captain gave the word to " let go," when it was every
man for himself after a herd often of 50,000 or 60,000 buffaloes.
The winter hunt was for robes and meat ; the spring and
summer hunt for pemmican and dried meat. The hides
were tanned for leather to make harness, saddles, tents and
moccasins. To make pemmican, the meat was dried, then
finely pounded. For first-class pemmican, the marrow of
many buffalo bones was taken, the whole put in a sack of the
skin of the animal, the hair outwards, and well mixed together.
When the sack was full the mouth was sewn up with threads
of sinew. The second-class pemmican was composed of meat
of the same quahty, but mixed with the best of fat melted,
while the third-class was of meat not quite so good nor so
finely pounded ; but it was mixed with melted fat in the same
way. This preparation of dried meats and pemmican would
keep in perfect condition for decades. I do not know what
the record is, but I have seen sacks of pemmican which had been
worn smooth by transportation, not a hair being left, and yet
96 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
I it was as good as the best made within the year. It is first-class
; food for travellers, hunters or soldiers, and, now that the buff ala
I no longer roam the plains, it can be made from the meat of
i the domestic animal, and is much superior to the " biltong "
, of South Africa. Both dried meat and pemmican were the
; favourite food of the traveller on the plains and far north,
and the Mounted Pohce used it for years.
The Swan River barracks — Livingstone was the name on the
official record of the government, but never used by the force — >
were built on a most extraordinary spot. How on earth any
person in his senses could have selected such a situation it
is difficult to imagine. When the builder arrived he found a
board marked " site for barracks," and was obliged to com-
mence. It lay on a high point between Snake Creek and the
Swan River, which lay in a wide and deep valley. The surface
of the ground was covered with very large, firmly embedded
boulders, a considerable portion of them showing above
ground, only a few feet apart, and before enough space could
be cleared to enable the men to form properly on parade
we had to build large fires over the rocks and adopt the
primitive method of causing them to split when heated by
pouring water on them.
At the end of the barrack reserve an extraordinary spectacle
might be seen in the autumn or the early spring. There
were several beds of stone about 25 feet square, on which lay
a huge mass of garter snakes basking in the sun. The reptiles
took refuge there when the nights became cool, and for the
most part paid no attention to intruders. When summer
came these snakes left their beds, and were found in every
direction for miles round, and some of them were even found
in the barrack-rooms. Fortunately they were quite harmless,
if unpleasant, and the children gathered boxes full of them,
or amused themselves chasing their playmates with a snake
in each hand. These beds gave the creek its name and had
been the resort of snakes from time immemorial.
The members of the force were a mixed lot. Many were
smart young fellows from the old country and eastern Canada,
well-educated, but unaccustomed to manual labour, lured
MARVELLOUS PUNCTUALITY 97
to the wild west by the halo of romance which surrounded the
lives of the pioneers. These men proved themselves equal
to the very best, and helped to build up the reputation which
the force now possesses.
There were also sons of Ontario farmers and the like, who,
by their resourcefulness under all circumstances, were an
excellent leaven to the whole lump. They seldom remained
in the force for more than one term of service. They had
come from the east to make homes for themselves and, as soon
as their time expired, took their discharges and settled down
to farming or business pursuits, generally in the vicinity
of one of the police posts.
Such were the rank and file of the Mounted Police in 1875.
Each had his own virtues and was different from the others,
but in a short time all had absorbed the best characteristics
of the others, the few faults soon disappeared, and the corps,
although ridiculously weak in numbers for the work it had
to do, became a powerful engine for the government of the
west.
The mails were brought once a week from Winnipeg to Shoal
Lake by our men with sleighs, and thence on to Swan River
barracks, 140 miles, by a French Metis named Antoine Geneille,
with the police dog trains On several occasions he made the
distance in 36 hours' continuous travel, running behind the
trains, and when he arrived at the orderly-room Colonel
French would often say to him in fun, " Why, Antoine, you are
ten minutes behind time ! What was wrong ? " and Antoine,
taking him to be in earnest, would make all sorts of excuses
and apologies for not having made more than 100 miles per
day I The dog drivers of the north west were marvels of
endurance ; they are no longer to be seen on the plains,
dogs have been superseded by horses and railways, but it
will be many a long day before they will cease to be of use
in the north.
The telegraph line constructed through by Swan River the
previous summer was a great convenience. The operator
gave us every day the latest news from the east, in a bulletin
which he posted up in a convenient place, an advantage which
no other post except Battleford enjoyed for many years. The
H
98 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
western terminus of the telegraph was at the Hay Lakes,
40 miles south of Forts Edmonton and Saskatchewan, on the
projected line of the C.P.R., which was not intended to touch
those places. The former, however, owing to later and better
plans, is now one of the most important cities in Canada,
and has three great railways passing through it.
Major-General Sir E. Selby-Smyth's report on the N.W.M.P.
was published in general orders during the winter, and was read
with interest. It was comphmentary on the whole, but
contained several erroneous statements. The drill of the
force was commented upon most favourably ; the endurance
of the men, their resourcefulness under all circumstances
he considered greater than that of any force with which he
had travelled during his many years of service on every con-
tinent. He had a good opportunity afforded him to test the
mettle of the men. The trails, where there were any, were
bad ; rafts had to be made daily to enable him and his staff
to cross the numerous rivers.
During his trip the general was impressed by the kindly
and firm methods of the Hudson's Bay Company in its deahngs
with the Indian tribes. The lawless invasion of the southern
country had been followed by the organization of the N.W.M.P.,
whose work was now in evidence over the whole of the Great
Plains. The west had never seen so many and useful changes.
Strong posts had been established at Swan River, Saskatche-
wan, Calgary, Macleod, Shoal Lake, and the Cypress Hills.
Law and order prevailed ; the quarters in all stations but one
had been built by our own hands, officers and men vying with
one another to get the work done ; surveyors were busy, a
telegraph hne, 900 miles in length, had been almost completed,
geologists were boring for coal, the explorers of the government
went about their business safe in the knowledge that we were
near when wanted, and people had settled near all of our posts
except in the Cypress Hills ; the Hudson's Bay Company had
navigated the North Saskatchewan by steam ; and all this
in the short space of fourteen months.
The lessons of Stuart and Sheridan fell on good soil, and we
were far in advance of the times as mounted riflemen. Ten
years later, when the mounted infantry instruction came out.
AN UNSAVOURY BREAKFAST 99
it was too antiquated for us, and had to be improved upon
to bring it up to the old standard, as in its original form it
was never intended for first-class horsemen. In everything
military or civil our commissioner led the way. Our equip-
ment was comfortable ; full dress, grey cork helmets, scarlet
Norfolk jacket, with loops for the belt so that it would not
fall when unbuckled, Bedford cord flesh-coloured pantaloons,
blue overalls, black boots for parade, brown for the trek,
German silver hunting spurs, brown belts, gauntlets ; undress,
scarlet serge, the same pantaloons, blue overalls, with double
white stripes, black and brown boots, heel and hunting spurs,
forage cap with gold laced band for officers and sergeants ;
fatigue, brown jackets of duck ; winter, fur caps, mitts,
moccasins, buffalo coats, and long stockings.
Lt.-Col. Irvine, who succeeded Lt.-Col. Macleod as assistant
commissioner, had been in the far west all the summer. On
his journey to Fort Macleod from Winnipeg his travelling
companions were, with others, Abe Farwell, a fine type of
American frontiersman, and one of the old hunter coureur de
bois class, named Alexis de Bombard. The party had the
usual buffalo skin tent or lodge for shelter at night, and the
custom, common and necessary, was to stretch a string across
the tent at a good height above the fire and hang thereon any
moccasins or other articles which had become wet through
travel in the deep snow. When the party turned in a stew of
buffalo tongues, prairie chickens and rabbits was put in a camp
kettle over the fire to simmer all night so as to be ready for
breakfast in the morning. Alexis had for a head covering a
tuque, or thick woollen cap, commonly used in the woods in
winter. It looked as if it had been an heirloom from his
grandfather, and as it had got wet that day he hung it up to
dry with the rest of the articles. In the morning it was
missing, but at breakfast Abe Farewell fished it out of the
stew 1 One of the party objected to stewed nightcap and
contented himself with a survey of the horizon, but de Bombard
donned his tuque as if it were not the first time it had been
cooked, and Abe went on eating his breakfast as if nothing
had happened, saying that he could not hit the trail on an
empty stomach.
100 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
In July, Colonel French, our good and capable commis-
sioner, resigned and returned to duty with the Royal Artillery
in England. The sergeants at headquarters presented him
with an address and a gold watch and chain, which he is still
proud to wear, and the corporals and constables presented
Mrs. French with an address and a service of plate.^
1 Colonel French and his family left Swan River in August. On
his arrival in England he was decorated with the C.M.G., and soon
afterwards appointed Inspector of War Stores for Devonport and the
Channel Islands. Later he organized the defence force of Queensland.
On his return to England he was appointed Commandant of the School
of Gunnery at Shoeburyness, then of the Artillery in Bombay. He
was subsequently in command of the troops in New South Wales
during the Boer War, and organized the whole of the troops sent out
to it from that State. He left his mark on the North West Mounted
Police by laying the foundation of its splendid efficiency.
CHAPTER VII
Lt.-Col. Macleod appointed Commissioner — Short notice — A long
trek — The Indian Treaties of 1876 — Fort Carlton — The council —
The dance of the stem — The signing of the treaty — Fort Pitt —
Another treaty — Headquarters at Fort Macleod — Sitting Bull —
Custer's army annihilated — Spotted Eagle's account — A busy time
— The Chinook — Christmas at Fort Macleod — Hiram Upham — ^The
influence of the force — An unfortunate affair — ^The Indian treaties
of 1877 — ^The Lieutenant Governor's speech — Crowfoot's speech —
The chiefs sign — The Indians' tribute to Colonel Macleod.
IN July we heard that Lt.-Col. Macleod had been offered
and accepted the commissionership of the force, and
had been gazetted on the 20th. He started for the
west at once, accompanied by the adjutant. Captain
Dalrymple-Clark.
They arrived at the Swan River barracks at 6 a.m. on
August 6, and gave orders for the headquarters and all but a
handful of " D " division to start by 9.30 a.m. for Fort Carlton,
where the Indian treaties were to be concluded in August.
It was a march of 1,150 miles, and we were to have all that
we required to enable us to halt anywhere and spend the
winter 1 We had to see to the shoeing of the horses, transfers
of men who were to be left behind, as well as the hundred
and one other matters. The whole of these arrangements
fell upon the shoulders of the orderly-room clerk, the orderly
sergeant and myself, but at 8.45 I was able to report that
the division was ready to march, and we puUed out at 9 a.m.,
with half an hour to spare. Sub-Inspector Dickens, a son of
the great novehst, accompanied the division. Before we
trekked we learned that the Swan River barracks had been
found to be unsuitable for headquarters, and the place was
in future to be a mere outpost of the force.
On August 18 at sunset we arrived at Fort Carlton. We
found there a very large number of Indians of different bands
lOI
102 FOIiTY YEARS IN CANADA
in one huge camp with the tents in a great circle. Near at
hand many traders had assembled to get the benefit of the
large sums of money that were to be paid to the Indians at the
conclusion of the treaty.
The first day's proceedings were over when we arrived.
The commissioners for the treaty were the Hon. Alexander
Morris, Lieutenant Governor of Manitoba and the North West
Territories, the Hon. W. J. Christie, and the Hon. James
Mackay ; the two latter were well known in the country,
had been born in it and spoke the Indian languages with ease
and fluency. Mr. Christie had served in the Hudson's Bay
Company for the greater part of his life ; Mr. James Mackay,
a man of enormous size, weighing nearly 400 pounds, was
perfectly familiar with every phase of life in the great west,
and knew the Indian character intimately ; no better men
could have been chosen to carry out the work than these able
councillors of the north west. The secretary of the com-
mission was Dr. Jackes, of Winnipeg ; the interpreter, a dignified
plainsman named Peter Erasmus.
The council tent was pitched on an eminence about a
quarter of a mile from the Indian camp, which contained
upwards of 2,000 redskins. These assembled soon after the
arrival of the commissioners, firing rifles, beating their tom-
toms, dancing and yeUing, the whole band chanting to the
accompaniment of their drums.
When quite ready they advanced in a semi-circle, preceded
by a large number of mounted warriors giving an exhibition
of their magnificent horsemanship. These braves had been
painted by their squaws in the most approved Indian style,
some like zebras, others hke leopards, each according to the
skill and fancy of the artists. It was a fine show, well worth
coming many hundreds of miles to see. Nothing so fine or
barbaric can be seen nowadays ; the exhibitions one sees at
fairs and shows being a mere sham and a disgrace to the red
man.
The Indians gradually approached in the same semi-circle
to within 50 or 60 yards of the Council Tent, where they halted
and began the " Dance of the Stem." This was commenced
by the chiefs, medicine men, councillors and musicians
THE INDIAN TREATIES 103
coming to the front and seating themselves on robes and
blankets spread there for the purpose. The bearer of " The
Stem," which was a gorgeously adorned pipe with a long
stem, walked slowly along the same semi-circle of Indians
and advanced to the front. He then raised the stem to the
heavens, tiurned slowly to the four cardinal points and, return-
ing to the group on the robes in front of the Council Tent,
handed it to one of the young warriors, who commenced a
slow chant, at the same time performing the stately dance,
accompanied by the musicians and the singing of the men
and women in the semi-circle. This was repeated by the other
men, the main body steadily advancing. The commissioners
then left the Council Tent to meet them, the horsemen still
performing their wonderful feats. The bearer of the pipe of
peace presented it first to the Lieutenant Governor, who
gently stroked it several times and passed it to the other
commissioners, who repeated the ceremony. This when repeated
meant that the friendship of the Indians had been accepted.
The interpreter then introduced the chiefs and headmen.
After that the Indians seated themselves before the Council
Tent, and the commissioners placed themselves at a large
table within it and faced them, while the sides of the tent were
drawn back to enable the parties to the treaty to have a clear
view. The Lieutenant Governor then addressed the Indians,
announcing the mission of the commissioners through Peter
Erasmus, who stood at the end of the table facing them, his
position graceful and dignified, his voice deep, clear and
mellow, every word distinctly enunciated. On hearing what
the Lieutenant Governor had to say the red men requested
leave to adjourn to talk it over in their council lodge, and the
commissioners returned to the fort.
On the 19th the council was resumed. There were present
the principal chiefs, Mis-Tah-Wah-Sis and Ah-Tuk-Ah-Coop.
When all were placed the Lieutenant Governor again addressed
the Indians, asking them to present their chiefs so that they
could address him and the other commissioners. These were
then brought forward by their braves. They represented 456
lodges.
Chief Beardy, of Duck Lake, 16 miles from Fort Carlton,
104 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
was not present with his band, having refused to meet the
commissioners. His demeanour had been so unfriendly that
Inspector Walker had to send an escort to bring the Lieutenant
Governor and his colleagues from the south branch of the
Saskatchewan to the fort. The refractory chief also sent a
messenger to the commissioners to find out the terms of the
treaty, but the Indian was told firmly that if he wished to
know anything he must sit and listen to what they had to say.
The terms of the treaty were then given out to the assembled
Indians, and when the Lieutenant Governor had concluded his
address Mis-Tah-Wah-Sis came forward, shook hands with
him and asked for time to go and think over his words. It was
arranged that they should meet again on Monday morning,
the 2ist.
The Indian camp was on a level plain and presented a very
picturesque appearance. The lodges or tents were of tanned
buffalo hides, many of them large enough to allow 20 or 30
to sit comfortably inside. The fire was built in the centre,
the smoke finding its way through an aperture in the top, the
proper draught to prevent the occupants from being smoked
out being secured by a triangular wing of the tent being held
in the right direction by a pole. The skin of the tent was
stretched on long spruce poles trimmed quite smooth ; these,
when the Indians were on the move, became part of the means
of transport by being passed through the loops of the saddle or
back band and trailed along the ground behind the pony ;
two pieces were lashed across behind to form a sort of ham-
mock-Hke stretcher, in which were carried the babies, the sick,
the wounded, puppies, food, or any camp utensils, etc. On the
outside of the lodge the Indians had painted the figures of
birds, beasts, or reptiles representing their totems. Like the
rest of their race on the plains, the Indians had many thousands
of horses, the hills and prairie being covered with them, each
family having its own herd and band of ponies. These were
driven regularly to water at the Saskatchewan, and on the
way back the herders invariably had a quarter-mile race on
the level ground from the river to the bench land. The ponies
were in first-class condition, and numbers of pinto or piebald
ones were to be seen amongst them.
THE CHIEFS SIGN 105
The Indians again asked for more time for deliberation,
but on the 23rd, after a few preliminaries, the treaty was
signed by the Lieutenant Governor, the Hon. James Mackay,
the Hon. W. J. Christie, and by Mis-Tah-Wah-Sis, and Ah-
Tuk-Ah-Coop. On the 24th, at the same place, the Lieutenant
Governor invested the chiefs with their uniforms, medals
and flags, and the headmen received, theirs in the evening.
The uniform of the chiefs was a scarlet frock coat braided
with gold lace and a top hat of felt with a gold band. The
headmen were given blue frock coats with gold lace, with hats
similar to those of the chiefs. The medals were very large,
with the Queen's head and a suitable inscription thereon.
On August 26 the whole of the Indians assembled in the
fort, led by their chiefs, headmen and councillors, in uniform
and with their medals. Each of them came forward in turn,
shook hands with the Lieutenant Governor and the other
commissioners, at the same time expressing gratitude for what
had been given to them and the courteous treatment they
had met. After this the Lieutenant Governor had some
small pow-wows with lesser bands of Indians, some 5 miles
from the fort, who assembled to meet him and sign the treaty.
We then went on to Fort Pitt, which we reached on
September 5. A large number of Indians were assembled
but, as there were many more still to come, the treaty was
postponed until the 7th.
The same method of procedure was employed as at Fort
Carlton. The Indians performed the " Dance of the Stem "
in a very elaborate manner. Several " Stems " were used on
this occasion, the bearers advancing gracefully to the beat
of their tom-toms ; ermine skins festooned the " Stems,"
which were stroked in turn by the commissioners and Lt.-Col.
Macleod. The pipes were smoked when that was concluded,
the Lieutenant Governor, chiefs and commissioners passing
the stem from one to the other, the chiefs pointing it to the
north, south, east and west before smoking.
The horsemanship of the warriors as they advanced was
even more daring than at Carlton. Each Indian was beauti-
fully painted and mounted on his war horse or buffalo runner.
They formed in line about 500 yards from the tent, broke
io6 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
away from the flanks in a double serpentine, the horses at their
utmost speed, and finally halted in line about 50 yards from
the tent. Two of them on this performance met with an acci-
dent through one of the horses putting its foot in a badger
hole, this causing a coUision which put the hip of one of the
warriors out of joint and seriously injured both horses. For-
tunately our surgeon was present, and gave immediate relief
to the injured man. The ceremony did not cease for a moment
owing to this accident, nor was the least surprise manifested.
The Lieutenant Governor addressed the chiefs and headmen
as at Fort Carlton. He told them that the red-coated servants
of the Queen had come to protect them when it was learned
that a large number of Assiniboines had been murdered at
the Cypress Hills by the American traders, and that they would
protect them from fire-water and from murder, would preserve
peace, and prevent whites from injuring the Indians ; they
must know, therefore, that when they met the red-coats they
met friends. Sweet Grass, a fine Indian, was the principal
chief, and, on the conclusion of the Lieutenant Governor's
speech, shook hands with him and asked for the full terms of
the treaty. These were carefully explained, and received with
the " how-how " of approval from the assembled Indians, who
next day considered the treaty in council.
On September 9 the treaty was signed, uniforms, flags and
medals were presented, and the band played " God Save the
Queen." The Indians were paid the same afternoon and pre-
sents distributed, the numerous traders reaUzing a large harvest
of doUars. Amongst the chiefs who had come to Fort Pitt was
Big Bear, whose band afterwards massacred the people at
Frog Lake, only 28 miles from Pitt. He did not sign the treaty,
nor had he any intention of doing so, but he signified to the
Lieutenant Governor that he agreed to its provisions.
On September 13 Sweet Grass and others came to say good-
bye to the commissioners. Big Bear did his utmost to extract
a promise that there would be no hanging. He seemed in
great fear of the rope, but was given to understand that
anyone who took life must die for his crime.
Swan River having proved unsatisfactory, it was decided
to make Fort Macleod the headquarters of the force, at any
SITTING BULL AND CUSTER 107
rate for a time. Accordingly, soon after the treaties had been
made, we set out thither, and arrived on October 22, We had
travelled on the prairie, from the time we left Swan River, at
least 1,149 miles, and were sorry the trek was over.
There was also another reason for the change to Fort Macleod.
The Sioux Indians and the American troops were fighting not
very far from the boundary line between Canada and the
United States. On the previous May 25 Major-General Custer,
of the U.S. Army, with the 7th Cavalry, attacked Sitting Bull,
the head soldier of the Sioux Indians, but the gallant general
was slain and his regiment, fighting against enormous odds,
was almost annihilated. The survivors, under Major Reno,
were forced to take refuge on a hill in the vicinity and entrench
as best they could until the arrival of General Terry, with whom
Custer was to co-operate in the attack. I heard the account of
this battle from Spotted Eagle, who was with Sitting Bull, and
will give it in his own words :
" The Sioux were encamped in the vaUey of the Big Horn
River, their lodges extending for some miles, when a cloud
of dust was seen in the distance, and their scouts sent word
that the ' Long Hair ' (General Custer) was coming. Sitting
Bull ordered the Indians present to prepare for battle, and
galloped down the valley to rouse the rest of the camp. The
Indians assembled in large numbers and General Custer,
sending part of his force round the hills to cut them off, ad-
vanced to fight on foot. The action with this part of the force
did not last long. The soldiers were jammed in a crowd and,
although they fought with great courage, were dispatched by
the Indians with their " coup " sticks.^ Some of the soldiers
tried to escape on their horses, but in vain, the Indians crowding
about and clubbing them to death. The last stand was made
by Custer and a small party of his men, who stood together to
the end. He was the last to fall, and died like a true soldier."
Spotted Eagle expressed a sincere admiration for the " Long
Hair," who, he beUeved, would have been able to lead his
*"Coup" sticks are weapons having an egg-shaped stone secured to
a stick by raw hide tied round a groove in the stone, and with a loose
end at the other extremity which was coiled round the wrists like a
sword knot. A blow from this was fatal, if received on the head, a
fracture of the skull being certain.
io8 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
regiment through them had they been armed with swords.
The fight with this part of the force was over and the soldiers
all dead before Sitting Bull returned.
Fort Macleod was situated on the island formed by the Old
Man's River and a channel called " The Slough." The force
had been located there for two years, and trails had been made
to Fort Benton, 245 miles, and to Fort Shaw, Montana, 210
miles, both places garrisoned by United States troops. A
fortnightly mail kept us in touch with Ottawa, via Fort Shaw,
Helena, Ogden, Utah, and the Union Pacific Railway, the
letters being one month in transit. There were mails to and
from Forts Calgary and Edmonton, the former once a week,
the latter at longer intervals. All these were run under our
own contracts ; there were no post offices, and all letters had
to have United States stamps, the nearest post offices being
at Forts Benton and Shaw. Letters came to the orderly-room
both ways, were sorted by our men and distributed, civilians
getting theirs free of charge.
All freight for the Mounted Police and the traders' stores in
the Httle collection of houses designated a town were brought
from Fort Benton in ox-waggons, commonly called prairie
schooners. These were very large and hauled by spans of 10
yoke or pairs of oxen of huge size. The vehicles were in trail,
that is, coupled as freight cars, and carried from 10,000 to
15,000 lbs. of goods. The first waggon had about 6,000 lbs.
the second 5,000, and the third carried 3,000 lbs. They were
always neatly painted and had a nice cooking outfit to each
span or team, the canvas cover fitting so well that everything
was brought to its destination in perfect condition. The bull-
trains, as they were styled when there were several, came in
brigades of 10 or more teams, and in some parts of Montana
I have seen them to the number of 50 or more moving in their
slow and regular way across the prairie. One firm in that
state had over 1000 oxen and 300 waggons on the trails. This
system was very good in a country without bridges or roads,
as the west was in 1876 and for many years later. When the
teams came to bad places the waggons could, if necessary, be
uncoupled and taken over one at a time. One crossing in the
west, that on Milk River, south of Fort Walsh, was so bad
PRIMITIVE MARRIAGES 109
through quicksands that on several occasions during the spring
rains 40 or more oxen were required to drag one waggon
across the stream.
The town lay in close proximity to the fort. It had gradu-
ally increased in size during the past two years, and contained,
in addition to two excellent stores, many small log buildings
roofed with mud, which were occupied by small traders,
gamblers and others who made a living by smuggHng whisky
for the use of the whites and half-breeds. This stuff was re-
tailed on the sly at the price of 50 cents per glass. It was a
vile decoction which soon showed its effects upon those unwary
enough to use it. Many of the gamblers in the place married
Indian girls according to the custom of the aborigines, which
was to give the father a present of a gun, a pony or ponies,
according to the value he placed upon his daughter when he
gave her to the white man in marriage. These marriages the
Indians considered binding, but the white men took quite
another view of the transaction and in most cases tired of
their Indian wives and threw them aside when they left the
place. This offence should have been severely punished, as
it had a bad effect on both Indians and whites, causing them
to become lax in their morals, and it was the origin of much
mischief.
Crimes of a serious character had decreased, but there was
no law against gambling until 1877, and the majority of the
gamblers were professionals who, when they lost aU, would
depart for new fields in the south. They were replaced by
others or were "set up " again by their friends for a fresh
start, for with all their faults they were a generous class.
As at Fort Walsh, I. G. Baker & Co. were our contractors
and bankers, and supplied us with forage and rations. Our
men deposited most of their pay with them and received a
large percentage per annum. This was done to save the firm
the trouble and risk of bringing large sums into the country,
and was no doubt profitable to both parties. Everything in
the stores was expensive ; money, owing to the long distance
from the base of supplies, was only turned over once a year,
and a profit of about 100 per cent, was expected upon goods
sold to the whites. The Indian trade was more profitable,
no FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
however ; enormous numbers of buffalo robes were taken,
the Indians receiving not more than two dollars in trade,
while the robes realized five times that amount in Chicago.
Thus there was always a large profit both ways, lOO per cent,
on the goods and at least four or five times that amount on
the robes.
The timber suitable for fuel had disappeared from the river
bottoms, but the pioneer coal-miner of the west, Nick Sheran,
located a vein near where the city of Lethbridge now stands,
and supplied us from that by ox waggons. This was a great
thing for the post and town, and was the origin of the immense
colliery at Lethbridge.
There was a good trade going on at Fort Calgary, the buffalo
being plentiful to the eastward of the post. The Hudson's
Bay Company and I. G. Baker & Company had stores, and Mr.
David Macdougall had a good trading outfit, by which he dealt
with the Mountain Assiniboines or Stonies, a very good tribe,
whose conduct had been much influenced by the Rev. George
Macdougall. He was one of the ablest of the missionaries of
his church, but unfortunately was frozen to death near Fort
Calgary the previous winter, when out hunting. His son, the
Rev. John Macdougall, succeeded to his labours at the mission
near the old Bow Fort, and became chairman for the whole of
the north west. Near Fort Calgary Father Constantine
ScoUen established a mission as soon as the Mounted PoUce
were firmly located, and a Methodist mission house was built
on the flat near the barracks.
This short description of the country adjacent to the foot-
hills of the Rocky Mountains will give an idea of the change
which had come over the region in less than two years, the
results being, no one will deny, due to the work of the Mounted
Pohce. It was indeed pleasant to see everyone going about
his work as peacefully and free from molestation as if he were
on an Ontario farm. Whites and Indians rode the plains on
peaceable terms, all tribes of Indians camped near one another,
the redman and his family were rich again, well fed and clad.
They thought nothing of the morrow, when, owing to the fact
that everyone was at peace with his neighbour and could go
where he pleased, the buffalo would soon disappear.
NOVELTIES IN NAMES iii
We found on arrival at Fort Macleod that the assistant
commissioner had prepared for headquarters to be located
there for a time at least. Log buildings were under construc-
tion to shelter us, and these were soon completed and made
comfortable. The ofhcers and men, at their own expense,
however, lined the walls with factory cotton to keep the dust
out and make the rooms look neat, and for the first time in
two years floors of plank took the place of mud.
We all had a very busy time. As for myself I had not a
moment to spare. In addition to the endless routine, a party
imder my supervision was employed broncho busting. The
remainder of the force was kept busy at the barrack routine
of a cavalry regiment, guarding prisoners, heading off whisky
traders and horse-thieves, visiting Indian camps and traders'
posts.
The court-room was crowded nearly every day ; the assist-
ant commissioner and Inspector Winder were frequently on
the bench and, in addition to my numerous outdoor duties, I
attended court regularly, producing witnesses and preparing
all details. Scarcely a night passed without an excursion after
some criminal cases, and our men were continuously on the
trail of law-breakers.
Some of the Indian witnesses had extraordinary names,
such as "Double-barrelled Scissors," "Waggon Box Julia,"
and the nicknames of the white men who were before the court
were quite as odd. Almost every white man went by a nick-
name which either connected him with some occupation or
" outfit," by whom he was employed, or some personal peculiar-
ity gave him the cognomen, such as " Yeast Powder Bill,"
*' Self-rising William," " Red Waggon Jim," " Mormon Mike,"
" Diamond R. Brown," or " Liver-eating J." This last had
killed an extra brave Indian warrior and devoured that portion
of his anatomy, in hopes that he would absorb some of the red
man's courage, not that he himself was lacking, but he wanted
more 1
In carrying out our duties that winter we were fortunate in
having very mild weather. There was a slight fall of snow,
and the weather grew cold near Christmas, but the chinook
came in January, leaving the prairie bare for the remainder
112 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
of the winter. This extraordinary wind has a great influence
on the cUmate of the prairie region, and is even felt as far
east as Winnipeg. Many were of the opinion that it came
from the south west through the Rocky Mountain passes, and
it was years before the true origin was known. It is from the
Pacific Ocean, whence it rises in a damp wind, discharging its
moisture on the mountains of British Columbia, Idaho and
Montana, in snow and rain. It then descends dry to the
plains, taking up all the moisture in its course until it exhausts
itself far east. Its influence causes the isothermal line to run
north west and take in the Peace River country. Even in the
far, cold Yukon one day in 1899 it had the effect of melting
the snow off the roofs of the houses. Its velocity is sometimes
quite 100 miles per hour, and it is then somewhat unpleasant.
Three feet of snow with a crust has been melted in one night,
and its coming is heralded by a heavy bank of dark clouds
on the Rocky Mountains, and its cessation is signalized by
their disappearance. The weather then, if in winter, gets
gradually colder until the heavy clouds again gather and the
Chinook comes roaring on to the plains.
My first Christmas at Fort Macleod was very pleasant The
sergeants were a right good sort, united in everything which
goes to make life pleasant. There were among them three
university graduates, a Blue Coat boy, three N.C.O.'s, Royal
Irish Constabulary, a West Point cadet, who had been rusticated
for objecting to a coloured student from Virginia, and an
ex-sheriff of New Brunswick.
Our Christmas dinners in the Mounted Police were always
in the evenings, no daylight dinners for us. All, from the
commissioner to the latest recruit, realized that Christmas
comes but once a year, and that we must have a good time.
Our civilian friends, to the number of 20, sat down with us,
and our bill of fare consisted of turkeys, wild geese, antelope,
other venison, buffalo tongues, boss rib, plum pudding, Cah-
fornia fruit, raisins, nuts and milk punch, for which a permit
had been obtained to enable us to pass the Christmas satis-
factorily. The proceedings were enlivened by songs, speeches
and toasts, the Queen, the Governor General, the army and
navy and other loyal toasts being duly honoured. The
THE CUNNING OF HIRAM UPHAM 113
President of the United States was toasted in honour of our
guests, who with few exceptions were citizens of the great
Republic, and was responded to by every American at the table.
Several of these are now British subjects and weU satisfied
with their new country.
One fine fellow, who has departed for the Great Unknown,
was Hiram Upham. " Hi," as he was affectionately called,
was a tall, good-looking man from Vermont, and of great
western experience. He once took a trip in the Indian country
when the red man was looking for scalps, taking with him old
Vielle, the interpreter of his firm. They were only out a few
days when a party of their red brothers on the warpath
approached. As it would have been madness to run for it.
Hi and Vielle took to a large buffalo waUow and prepared to
fight. But the latter, who was not noted for his pluck, and
was married to a squaw of the same tribe as the Indians,
thought that his skin would be safer if he left Upham to take
care of himself and returned to a coulee in the vicinity. As
he could not get away without some vahd excuse he suggested,
" You stand 'em off. Hi, and I'll ' rustle ' a bit on the side."
It was no good, however, for Hiram replied, " You rustle here,
you angel, or I'U relieve you of your top hair I " This decided
Vielle to remain with him, and Vielle's red relatives, seeing
that the white men presented a bold front with their rifles
ready for use, concluded that their scalps would be too
expensive and drew off to look for easier prey.
During the winter large numbers of Blackfeet, Bloods, Pei-
gans, Stonies and Bobtail's band of Crees came to trade at
the stores. These people were armed with magazine rifles and
many had revolvers. The Blackfeet were with few exceptions
dressed in buffalo robes, with the hair inside, the outside
coloured with red ochre, and the whole secured by a large black
belt studded with brass nails. The Bloods and Peigans wore
gay American blankets, the latter had theirs neatly arranged
with a hood at the back to pull over their heads in stormy
weather. All wore leggings and were painted with ochre
according to their fancy. Bright brass rings were fastened
round their well-braided locks. The Crees and Stonies wore
the durable white blankets of the Hudson's Bay Company
114 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
wrapped round them, but they took very httle trouble to adorn
themselves.
Great numbers of buffalo robes were brought in by the
Indians, those furnished by the Blackfeet and their kindred
tribes were very fine ; the skin of the heads and tails and the
horns and hoofs well polished were left on them and made them
much more valuable. The Crees and Stonies did not take the
same trouble until they found that they must follow the
example of the Blackfeet or be unable to sell the skins.
Quay-we-den, the gigantic medicine man of Bobtail's band
of Crees, was at Fort Macleod during the greater part of the
winter, and Chief Crowfoot at Blackfoot Crossing, " The Ridge
Under the Water," became unwell, and sent word to this
Cree medicine man that he must be using his " long medicine "
on him, in other words, bewitching him, and that there was no
excuse for doing this, as their tribes were at peace with one
another. This tickled Quay-we-den, who, being a cute
Indian, played upon the superstitious fears of the Blackfeet
chief until the latter bought him off with presents and was
restored to health.
During the winter we had proofs of the ease with which
buffaloes and antelopes can be tamed. We captured two
yearling buffalo calves, which within a few weeks would go out
to graze on the prairie every morning and in the evening before
dark return to the corral, where they would play with the
men. Several times I met them a mile from the fort without
exciting in them the slightest alarm. Some antelopes were
secured and ere long could be turned loose, and would frolic
with the Indian children and the only white child in the post,
circling round them like kittens. They would encourage the
dogs to chase them, keeping them within a few feet, and then
by a sudden burst of speed distance them Uke a flash.
I was in T. C. Powers' store one day when one of our ante-
lopes, not more than a month in captivity, came into the
building. As it was not wanted Mr. Williamson, the account-
ant, got a biscuit from a box behind the counter and coaxed
the httle beast outside. Next day it returned, went round
the counter to the biscuit box and helped itself.
It is a great pity that no attempt was made in those days
THE BLACKFEET NATION 115
to domesticate the buffalo on a large scale so that such a useful
animal should not be lost to us. They could have been easily
captured at a small cost per head, and no doubt the plain-
hunters and Indians would have been glad to do the work.
In the hunts the calves were left far behind and when the
hunters returned the calves ran round the horses' legs, taking
them for their mothers, and would follow them into camp,
where they were killed for their meat and hides.
We had by this time become very well acquainted with the
Indians and had a very great influence over them. They were
learning to shun the low white man and look to us for protec-
tion. The Blackfeet Nation, viz., the Blackfeet, Bloods and
Peigans, were an open, frank, bold people, with very little
of the craft supposed to be in the Indian character. The Crees
were quite different, very distant and less inclined to make
friends except for selfish reasons. The physique of the Black-
feet Nation, especially the Blood tribe, was very fine, the
men were tall and graceful in bearing, and were pleasant and
cheerful. Their horsemanship was of a high class and their
ponies, buffalo-runners and war horses of a good type. From
two years of age the children rode without assistance, and the
women also rode weU and took charge of the trains of ponies
when on trek from one camp to another, pitched the tents,
dressed the buffalo robes and cooked the food. The more
wives an Indian had the richer he was I
The Indians had a name for every white man they knew
and were very clever in noting any physical peculiarity. A
handsome young man, for instance, might get the name of
" Pretty Young Buck." Colonel Macleod was a great favourite
with them, and the fort was called " The place where the
' Bull's Head ' stays." He was regarded by the Blackfeet
Nation as the personification of justice. I doubt if any one
ever had such influence with them, and, as a matter of fact,
it could not be otherwise. He kept his place, never accepted
a present, never gave one, and was respected by them aU the
more for it, his word being law from the time he appeared
amongst them.
One of the most important aids to us in our management of
the Indians and the carrying out of our duties, both miUtary and
Ii6 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
civil, in the great west was our remarkable scout and inter-
preter, Jerry Potts. He had been in many Indian fights, in
which he had led large bands of warriors. He was indis-
pensable as a teacher of the mysteries of the plains and the
ways of the red man. He was only fifteen years of age when
he lost his father, a Scotchman of education, who had charge
of one of the American Fur Company's posts on the Missouri,
and was murdered by an Indian who mistook him in the dark
for one of the employees of the Company with whom he had
quarrelled. From that time on Potts was employed as an
interpreter, scout and guide, and at all our posts was trusted
implicitly in all dealings with the Indians. The officers and
men treated him with the greatest consideration and received
in return the most loyal assistance and support.
" The 17th of Ireland," as our friends call the day of their
patron saint, was kept by the Irishmen at Macleod in the
most patriotic manner. Green ribands were to be seen
everywhere, and many a whisky cache or hiding-place was
raised to enable Pat and his many admirers to do honour to the
occasion. About midnight on the 17th I was reading in the
mess, wondering if I could soon retire to rest, but afraid that
I should have something to do in town, when a man rushed
excitedly into the room with the information that a small
trader had a row going on in his cabin and was dispensing fire-
water, whereupon I got the farrier-major to come with his
men.
When we arrived at the door of the cabin we found a party
of civilian toughs there to warn the proprietor. Tuke, the
farrier-major, seized the largest and shook him as a terrier
would shake a rat, while I, on being refused admission, kicked
the door in. We had to be prompt in those days 1 We found
the trader and several others in a hilarious state. No sooner
did he see my informant than he made a rush at him with fury
in his eyes, and no wonder, for the young rascal had been
enjoying his hospitality, had quarrelled with his host and then
out of spite had informed upon him. The trader was arrested,
however, and a cache discovered amongst a huge pile of buffalo
robes.
Just as we were leaving Tuke saw a stockinged foot pro-
THE INDIAN TREATY 117
t Hiding from a pile of robes in a dark comer and dragged the
owner forth. He proved to be a poor fellow, commonly called
Paddy, a graduate of a famous university, who in the weakest
moment of his life had fallen to the seductive wiles of the trader.
There was no help for it, he should not have played the ostrich
and been caught by Tuke's eagle eye. He was before the
assistant commissioner next morning, and met the fate of aU
in the force who sacrificed duty at the altar of Bacchus.
In 1877 the Dominion Government decided that a treaty
should be concluded that year with the Blackfeet and other
Indian tribes who roamed the Great Plains from the North
Saskatchewan to the international boundary in what is now
the province of Alberta. The Indians' title to their hunting-
grounds was to be extinguished and the red man to receive
reserves and other compensation.
The treaty was to be styled Number 7, and the commissioners
appointed to represent the government of Canada were the
Honourable David Laird, Lieutenant Governor of the North
West Territory, and Lt.-Col. Macleod. The place decided
upon was the Blackfeet Crossing, or " The Ridge under the
Water," of the Bow River, about 80 miles over the prairie
from Fort Macleod.
On September ig the majority of the chiefs and minor chiefs
of the Blackfeet, Blood, Peigan, Stoney and Sarcee tribes seated
themselves in front of the Council Tent, and about a third of a
mile beyond them some 4,000 men, women and children were
on the grass watching the proceedings with interest.
Mr. Laird then addressed the Indians in the following words :
The Great Spirit has made all things, the sun, the moon, the
stars, the earth, the forests and the swift running rivers. It is
by the Great Spirit that the Queen rules over this great country
and other great countries. The Great Spirit has made the
white man and the red man brothers, and we should take each
other by the hand. The Great Mother loves all her children,
white men and red men alike ; she wishes to do them all good.
The bad white man and the bad red man she alone does not
love, and them she punishes for their wickedness. The good
Indian has nothing to fear from the Queen or her ofi&cers;
you Indians know this to be true.
ii8 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
When bad white men brought you whisky, robbed you and
made you poor, and through whisky made you quarrel amongst
yourselves, she sent the Mounted Police to put an end to it.
You know how they stopped this, and punished the offenders,
and how much good this has done. I have to tell you how
much pleased the Queen is that you have taken the Mounted
Police by the hand and helped them and obeyed her laws
since their arrival. She hopes you will continue to do so,
and you will always find the police on your side if you keep the
Queen's laws. The Great Mother heard that the buffalo were
being killed very fast, and to prevent them from being destroyed
her councillors have made a law to protect them. This law
is for your good ; it says that calves are not to be killed either
in winter or spring, except by the Indians when they are in
need of them for food. This will save the buffalo and provide
you with food for many years, and it shows you that the
Queen and her councillors wish you well.
Many years ago the Great Mother made a treaty with
the Indians, far away by the great waters of the east. A few
years ago she made a treaty with those beyond the Touchwood
Hills and the Wood Mountains. Last year a treaty was
made with the Crees along the Saskatchewan, and now the
Queen has sent Colonel Macleod and myself to ask you to
make a treaty. But in a very few years the buffalo wiU be
destroyed, and for this reason the Queen wishes to help you to
live in the future in some other way. She wishes you to
allow her white children to come and live on your land, and
raise cattle and grain, and thus give you the means of living
when the buffalo are no more. She will also pay you and your
children money every year, which you can spend as you please.
By being paid in money you cannot be cheated, as with it
you can buy what you think proper.
The Queen wishes to offer you the same as was accepted
by the Crees. I do not mean exactly the same terms, but
equivalent terms that will cost the Queen the same amount
of money. Some of the other Indians wanted farming imple-
ments, but these you do not require, as your lands are more
adapted to raising cattle, and cattle perhaps wiU be better
for you. The commissioners will give you your choice, whether
cattle or farming implements. I have already said we will
give you money. I will now tell you how much. If you
sign the treaty, every man, woman and child will get twelve
dollars each. This year's chiefs and councillors will be paid
THE TERMS OF THE TREATY 119
more than this. Chiefs will get a suit of clothes, a silver
medal, a flag, and every third year you get another suit.
A reserve of land wiU be set apart for yourselves and your
cattle, upon which none other will be permitted to encroach.
For every five persons one square mile wiU be allowed on
this reserve, on which they can cut brush and trees for fire-
wood and other purposes. The Queen's officers will permit
no white man or half-breed to build or to cut timber on your
reserves ; if required, roads wiU be cut through them. Cattle
will be given to you and potatoes, the same as are grown at
Fort Macleod.
The commissioners strongly advise you to take cattle, as
you understand cattle better than you will farming, for some
time at least, and as long as you continue to move about in
lodges. Ammunition wiU be issued to you each year, and
as soon as you sign the treaty, 1,500 dollars' worth will be
distributed among the tribes ; and, as soon as you settle,
teachers will be sent to you to instruct your children to read
books like this one (a Bible), which is impossible so long as
you continue to move from place to place.
I have now spoken. I have made you acquainted with the
principal terms contained in the treaty which you are asked
to sign.
You may wish to talk it over in your council lodges, you
may not know what to do before you speak your thoughts
in council. Go, therefore, to your councils, and I hope you
may be able to give me your answer to-morrow. Before
you leave I will hear your questions and explain any matter
which may not be clear to you.
After a few questions the proceedings closed for the day.
Next morning the commissioners proceeded once more to the
Council Tent and found the chiefs awaiting them. The pro-
ceedings continued aU day, with short intervals, in which the
band played. All the chiefs spoke and asked questions, to
which the commissioners replied, explaining any point that
the Indians did not quite understand. On the following day
the terms of the treaty were agreed to and several of the
chiefs made speeches. Crowfoot, being the paramount chief,
spoke first and said :
While I speak be kind and patient. I have to speak for my
people, who are numerous, and who rely upon me to follow
120 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
that course which in future will tend to their good. The plains
are large and wide ; we are the children of the plains ; it has
been our home, and the buffalo have been our food always.
I hope you look upon the Blackfeet, Bloods, Peigans and
Sarcees as your children now, and that you will be indulgent
and charitable to them. They all expect me to speak for them,
and I trust the Great Spirit will put into their breasts to be
good people, into the minds of the men, women and children,
and their future generations.
The advice given to me and my people has proved to be
very good. If the police had not come to this country, where
should we all be now ? Bad men and whisky were indeed
killing us so fast that very few of us indeed would have been
left to-day. The Mounted Police have protected us as the
feathers of the bird protect it from the frosts of winter. I
wish them all good, and trust that all our hearts will increase
in goodness from this time forward. I am satisfied. I will
sign the treaty.
Crowfoot then seated himself, and Button Chief, an Indian
who made stupid remarks during the conference, asking that
the Indians be paid for the wood used by the Mounted Police
for fuel, etc., rose and said : "I must say what aU the people
say, and I agree with what they say. I cannot make new laws.
I will sign." Thereupon Red Crow spoke and said : " Three
years ago when the Mounted Police came to the country, I met
and shook hands with Stamix-oto-kan (Colonel Macleod), at
Belly River. Since that time he made me many promises, he
kept them aU ; not one of them was broken. Everything that
the Mounted PoUce have done has been good. I entirely
trust Stamix-oto-kan, and will leave everything to him. I will
sign with Crowfoot." Father of Many Children, the oldest
Indian present, said : " I have come a long way and far behind
any of the bands I have travelled with these traveaux that you
see outside with my women and children. I cannot speak much
now, but I agree with Crowfoot and will sign." Ancient Sun
addressed the commissioners also, saying : " Crowfoot speaks
well. We were summoned to meet the Great Mother's chiefs
here, and we would not disappoint them. We have come and
will sign the treaty. During the past Crowfoot has been caUed
by us Our Great Father. Great Mother's Chief (Mr. Laird),
RED CROW, HEAD CHIEF OF THE BI.ACKFEET NATION, 1895
PAYING THE TREATY MONEY 121
everything that you say appears to me to be very good, and
we hope that you will give us all that we ask, cattle, money,
tob.acco, guns and axes, and that you will not let the white men
use poison on the prairies ; it kills horses and buffalo, as well
as wolves, and it may kill men. We can ourselves kill the
wolves and set traps for them. We all agree with Crowfoot."
Red Crow was one of the very best of the Indian chiefs. He
was head chief of the Bloods, the most powerful of the three
Blackfeet tribes, and was loyal to the last. The putting out
of poison for wolves was much objected to by the Indians, but
at the time of the Blackfeet treaty there was not so much of it
done as in former years, when a considerable number of white
men, styled " wolfers," made a living by that means, and their
cabins were to be seen along the rivers. Laws had been already
passed to prevent the careless use of poison, and the Mounted
Pohce kept a sharp look out to prevent " wolfing " in a reckless
way, viz., throwing poison about wholesale. It had been a
common thing a few years before the law was passed to see
dozens of wolves Ij^ng dead near the poisoned carcase of a
bison,
A great many chiefs followed Red Crow, all in favour of the
treaty, and on September 21 the whole of them and their
councillors signed it beneath the signatures of the com-
missioners, and the usual salute of thirteen guns announced the
conclusion of the last treaty with the Plain Indians of Canada.
The next three days were spent in paying the Indians their
treaty money. Some very odd requests were made during
these payments, such as premiums for the babies that were to
come, and for blind brothers and sisters who could not attend.
On the last day of the payments the chiefs presented an address
to the commissioners, expressing their satisfaction at the way
its terms were carried out, and their best wishes to the Great
Mother, the Lieutenant Governor, Colonel Macleod, and the
North West Mounted Police. They spoke in the highest terms
of the officers and of the force in general, and assured the
commissioners of their firm determination to adhere to the
treaty and abide by the Queen's laws. Jerry Potts stated
that he had never heard Indians speak their minds so freely
before.
122 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Mr. Laird, in reply, said that he was much pleased to receive
such an address from the Blackfeet Nation ; it was to the Great
Mother, for whom he was acting, as he was only carrying out
her wishes.
Colonel Macleod said :
The chiefs know what I said to them three years ago, when
the police first came to the country — that nothing would be
taken away from them without their consent ; you all see
to-day that what I told you was true. I also told you that
the Mounted Police were your friends and would not wrong
you, or see you wronged in any way ; this also you see is true.
The police will continue to be your friends and be always
glad to see you.
On your part you must keep the Queen's laws and give
information to them in order that they may see the laws
obeyed and offenders punished. You may still look to me
as your friend, and at any time when I can do anything for
your welfare I shall be only too happy to do so.
You say that I have always kept my promises : as surely
as my past promises have been kept so surely shall those made
by the commissioners be carried out in the future. If they
were broken I should be ashamed to meet you or look you in
the face. But every promise will be solemnly fulfilled, as
certainly as the sun now shines down upon us from the heavens.
I shall always remember the kind manner in which you have
to-day spoken of me.
CHAPTER VIII
The Sioux in Canada — Major Walsh and Sitting Bull — Grievances
against the United States — The commission' — General Terry- —
The conference with the chiefs — Sitting Bull's reply — Failure of
the commission' — Work at Fort Macleod — Buckskin Charlie- — The
Assiniboine sun dance — The initiation of the braves — Indian signs
• — An awful journey — Big Bear's band — Leveillee — Jerry Potts —
An adventurous youth — A triumph of strategy — Indian honesty- —
An inteUigent goose.
COLONEL Macleod had now another important duty to
perform. The governments of Great Britain, Canada
and the United States had arranged that com-
missioners from the latter country should visit the
North West Territory in October, 1877, and endeavour to
induce the surrender to the United States of Sitting Bull and
the Sioux Indians, who had taken refuge in Canada after the
fight in which they had almost totally destroyed the 7th
Cavalry under the gallant General Custer. It was nece^^sary
that the commissioner of the N.W.M.P. should represent
Canada and arrange for the Sioux chief and his colleagues to
meet the American commissioners and discuss proposals.
The Sioux had crossed the boundary line in December, 1876,
and in March, 1877, Medicine Bear and 900 lodges of Yankton
Sioux followed. The latter were not concerned in the Custer
miassacre, nor were they regarded as hostiles, although they
belonged to the Sioux Nation. Major Walsh had met the
Sioux, who asked for ammunition ; but he would give them
only some food for themselves and their families. They had no
ammunition left with which to kill buffalo, and later on he
allowed ten rounds per man on a permit signed by an officer of
the jMounted Police. No trader could sell more than the
number of rounds authorized. This was a wise arrangement,
it being known that there were petty traders in the buffalo
country who would, if they dared, sell all that the Indians
123
124 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
desired, and, provided that their own scalps were safe, were
quite regardless of the safety of those of the " Mela Hoska "
(Long Knives, i.e., United States soldiers) or the " Shagalasha "
(Mounted Pohce).
About the 29th of the same month Lt.-Col. Irvine was met
by some Sioux Indians at Fort Walsh, who reported that
three Americans were in Sitting Bull's camp near Pinto Horse
Butte, and on the last day of the month he proceeded to the
camp, accompanied by Major Walsh, the adjutant of the post
and another officer. When he arrived he saw three white men,
the Abbe Martin, an interpreter, and an alleged scout of General
Miles, of the U.S. army. These persons had seriously offended
the Indians, who looked upon them as spies who had no right
to be present, and had it not been for the orders of Major
Walsh they would have put them to death. The Abbe was
desirous of having them return to their reservations in the
United States. The other two men stated that they had
accompanied the Abbe for protection, but that they intended
to find out from the Mounted Police if the Sioux purposed
crossing the international boundary. This was a very absurd
excuse, for if it was their wish to meet the officers of the force
they could have done so without going to the Sioux camp,
which was a very strange proceeding if reliable information
was to be obtained. In fact, to say the least of it, their actions
had the colour of stupidity or deceit. Had they gone to Fort
Walsh to interview the commandant they would have been
treated with courtesy, and he would have known the best
course to take in the matter. The officers and men of the
force, from the date of the arrival of the Sioux until the time
of the surrender of Sitting Bull and the last of the hostile Sioux,
in 1881, maintained perfect touch with every move of those
Indians, and succeeded by their constant vigilance in preventing
them from raiding or annoying any settlements of the U.S.A.
The assistant commissioner's council with Sitting BuU and
his chiefs was conducted with the usual ceremony, the pipe of
peace was smoked and the ashes buried. At this conference
the chiefs present were Sitting Bull, Pretty Bear, Bear's Cap,
Eagle Sitting Down, Sweet Bird and Minnieonzon.
Major Walsh, having already met Sitting Bull, informed him
THE WAR AXE DUG UP 125
that the assistant commissioner was the highest authority in
that part of the country, and that he had come to hear what
he had to say. Lt.-Col. Irvine then addressed the chiefs,,
explaining to them that now that they were in British territory
they would have to obey the laws, and that they must not cross
the border to fight the Americans and then return to Canada.
He told them that they would be allowed enough ammunition
to hunt buffalo for food, but that not one round of ammunition
was to be used against either white man or Indian. He said
that they had done well to send information of the Americans
who had come to their camp, and that he would go and see
them, and take them away with him ; they had nothing to
fear from the Americans, as they could not cross the hne after
them.
Sitting Bull came to Lt.-Col. Irvine's tent about 11 o'clock
at night and sat there until an early hour in the morning,
relating his grievances against the " Long Knives." His band
was small at first, but soon grew, being recruited by many
hostiles who had not yet taken refuge in Canada. The numbers
from first to last have been under estimated. With Medicine
Bear's Yanktons, there were well known to be double the
number reported. It was this state of affairs which brought
about the visit of the American conmiissioners and Colonel
Macleod's trek from the Blackfeet Crossing to meet them.
We found everything bustle and hurry at Fort Walsh.
General Terry, of the U.S. army, was expected to arrive shortly
with his staff. There was another cause for excitement.
Chief Joseph and his Nez Percee Indians had dug up the war
axe and were fighting the American troops a few miles south
of the international boundary at the west end of the Bear Paw
mountains. The red men had already fought a battle with
Major-General Gibbon, and were attempting to reach Canada
for refuge. They had up to date behaved in a remarkably
civiHzed manner, no farmers or other civilians had been
molested, and, with the exception of a few stores at the Coal
Banks of the Missouri at Cow Island, where they had a fight
with some volunteers who had turned out under the command of
an officer of the regular army, they had done no plundering.
Several columns were soon in pursuit of the Nez Percees, to
126 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
prevent them from getting across the Canadian border, and
General Miles in command of the forces had brought them to
bay. They had entrenched to make their last stand and faced
the troops with great determination. This outbreak had given
much alarm to the settlers in Montana, and the despatch riders
from Fort Benton to Fort Walsh in connection with the rising
and the movements of the commissioners to meet Sitting Bull
-demanded and received as much as 500 dollars for the trip of
160 miles. On our side, however, no such sum would have
been paid. The despatches were carried by our men without
extra pay, and all were anxious to be employed.
When we arrived we found that Major Walsh had gone to
Pinto Horse Butte, about 150 miles east of Fort Walsh, to meet
Sitting Bull and the other Sioux chiefs and escort them in.
The following day our party went out to meet him and lend
more importance to the occasion. When Major Walsh ap-
peared he was accompanied by the Sioux chiefs, 20 in all, and
one squaw, a tall, powerful looking woman in the prime of hfe.
He reported that he had seen a party of Nez Percee Indians,
who had succeeded in escaping through the American lines to
Canada. Many were wounded and in a destitute condition.
They stated that the rest of their party had been either killed
or captured.
Early next morning we were on our way back to Fort Walsh,
the Indians jogging along at a fox trot beside us. The chiefs
were very frank and friendly in their demeanour, and we soon
learned that no matter how much the Canadians and Americans
desired it, the Sioux had not the slightest intention of giving
themselves up to the United States government. In fact,
nothing but force or starvation would induce them to cross the
border. These chiefs were the most noted of the Teton Sioux,
handsome in appearance, aU having the dark and intensely
piercing eyes pecuhar to the Sioux.
After supper one of the Sioux started to run buffalo, and a
fat cow was killed and dressed by the squaw, who cut the meat
into thin strips and broiled them on the coals for the Indians,
who washed them down with copious draughts of strong tea.
The Indians sat up aU night round the buffalo chip fire, singing,
■eating and drinking, until the whole carcase had been devoured,
GENERAL TERRY'S ARRIVAL 127
every one of them stowing away at least twenty pounds of the
well-cooked meat. This gastronomic feat may seem incredible
to those who do not know the capacity of the North American
Indian to eat large quantities of food when favourable op-
portunity presents itself. He has to be ready for the morrow,
and it should be borne in mind that the flesh of the buffalo is
much easier to digest than beef.
The day after our return to Fort Walsh Colonel Macleod met
<j€neral Terry at the border. Permission was given for the
American general's escort of infantry to come with him to the
fort. This company travelled in mule waggons, and was very
interesting ; several of them had been through the battle with
the Nez Perc6es at the Bear Paw mountains. Many were old
and seasoned soldiers, one having been through the Mexican
War, more than 20 years before. They were supplied with
comfortable tents with good stoves ; the latter were luxuries
unknown to us at that time. The camp fire and our blankets
were the best we could have. Stoves were introduced many
years later and proved to be a great comfort.
There were several professional scouts in General Terry's
party, one of them, an Enghshman of an old family, Howard
by name, a very bright, well-informed man, but, like many,
averse to hiding his light under a bushel He took no pains
to conceal his dishke of the red men
The day after his arrival. General Terry and General
Lawrence, who accompanied him, were met at the officers'
mess-room by Colonel Macleod and his officers, and received
Sitting BuU and his chiefs in council A number of American
and Canadian newspapers were represented, and the squaw who
came with the Sioux was permitted to be present, although it
is against Indian etiquette for a woman to take part in a council.
In fact, it was an affront to the commission, but whether
intentional or not I cannot say.
The proceedings began by Colonel Macleod stating that
General Terry and his staff were present by invitation, and that
the Sioux chiefs had been summoned to meet them. General
Terry then addressed the chiefs, through an interpreter who,
it is to be regretted, did not know even his own language and
was in no manner to be compared with those who did duty
128 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
at the great Blackfeet and Cree treaties Few men of good
education had opportunities of learning Sioux, consequently
the fine display of oratory of some of the chiefs was cut down to
laconic remarks even coarser than one sometimes heard in the
magistrate's court at Fort Macleod.
The general told the chiefs that their band was the only one
that had not surrendered to the United States, and that it
was the desire of his government that they should return to
their reservations, give up their arms and horses, and receive
cattle in exchange for the money realized by the sale. In
reply Sitting Bull said :
For 64 years you have kept me and my people and treated
us badly. What have we done that you should want us to
stop ? We have done nothing. It is the people on your side
who have started us to do these depredations. We could
not go anjrwhere else, so we took refuge in this country. It
was on this side of the country that we learnt to shoot, and
that was the reason I came back to it again. I should like
to know why you came here. In the first place I did not give
you the country, but you followed me from one place to
another, so that I had to leave and come over to this country.
I was bom and raised in this country with the Red River
half-breeds, and I intend to stop with them. I was raised
hand-in-hand with the Red River half-breeds, and we are
going over to that part of the country, and that is the reason
that I have come over here. (Here Sitting Bull shook hands
with Colonel Macleod and Major Walsh.) That is the way
I was raised, in the hands of the people here, and that is the
way I intend to be with them. You have got ears and you
have got eyes to see with, and to see how I live with these
people. You see me, here I am. If you think I am a fool,
you are a bigger fool than I am. This house is a medicine
house. You come here to tell us lies, but we do not want
to hear them. I do not wish any such language used to me,
that is, to tell me such lies in my Great Mother's house. Do
not say two more words. Go back to where you came from.
This country is mine, and I intend to stay here, and to raise
this country full of grown people. See these people here,
we were raised with them. (Again he shook hands with the
Mounted Police officers.) That is enough, so no more. You
see me shaking hands with these people. The part of the
THE INDIANS AND THE U.S.A. 129
country you gave me you ran me out of. I have now come
to stay with these people, and I intend to stay here. I wish
to go back and take it easy going back. (At this point he took
a Santee Sioux Indian by the hand.) The Santees, I was bom
and raised with them. He is going to tell you something
about them.
" The One who runs the Roe," a Santee Indian, then said :
'* Look at me 1 I was born and raised in this country. The
people away north I was raised with. I have lived in peace
with them. For the last 64 years we were over in your
country and you treated us badly. We have come here now,
and you want to try and get us back again. You did not
treat us well, and I do not hke you at all."
The Sioux squaw then got up and remarked : "I was over
in your country. I wanted to raise children over there, but
you did not give me any time. I came over to this country
to raise my children and to have a little peace. That is aU I
have to say to you. I want you to go back to where you
came from. These are the people I am going to stay with
and raise my children with."
Flying Bird then spoke, saying : " These people here,
God Almighty raised us together. We have a little sense and
we ought to love one another. Sitting Bull here says that
whenever you found us out, wherever his country was, you
wanted to have it. It is Sitting BuU's country, this is. The
people sitting all round me, what they committed I had nothing
to do with. I was not in it. The soldiers find out where we live
and they never think of anything good. It is always something
bad." He too shook hands with the Mounted Police officers.
The Indians then arose and were about to depart when the
interpreter was directed by General Terry to ask : " Shall I
say to the President of the United States that you have refused
the offer he has made to you ? Are we to understand from
what you have said that you refuse those offers ? " to which
Sitting Bull replied : "I could tell you more, but that is all
I have to tell you. If we told you more, why, you would not
pay attention to it ; that is all I have to say. This part of
the country does not belong to your people. You belong to
the other side. This side belongs to us."
130 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Sitting Bull than left the room, followed by the Indian
chiefs, and encamped outside the fort for a day or two. During
their stay they visited the barrack-rooms and were fed by the
men on the best they had. In one room they were regaled
with plum-pudding and one of them, Bear's Cap, had a severe
attack of indigestion, necessitating the loan of a tent, in which
he was treated in a very drastic manner for the complaint.
While the American soldiers remained with us I made the
acquaintance of the officer commanding their company and
the smart German sergeant. I was shown their system,
interior economy, books, pay sheets, etc., all of which they
carried with them in neat pigeon-holed chests which, when
the company was halted, could be opened and used as desks.
General Terry and his officers were smart soldiers, very
punctilious in their bearing towards us. The general was the
hero of Fort Fisher, which he captured during the great war
between the Northern and Southern States, and when the war
was over was rewarded by high rank in the regular army.
He was very erect and at least six feet six inches in height,
well proportioned and with a very kindly expression of
countenance. It was a great pity that his mission was so
unsuccessful, but nothing else could be expected. The buffalo
were still plentiful, the country attractive, and as long as the
Indians behaved themselves there was no trouble.
The day after the council broke up General Terry and his
staff departed for the south, escorted by Major Walsh as far
as the border. They expressed themselves delighted with
their visit and the pleasant time they had with Colonel Macleod
and the force under his command.
The winter of 1877-8 we spent at Fort Macleod. The
weather continued delightful during the whole of that season.
I have never seen finer anywhere. New Year's Day was like
midsummer and cricket was played outside the fort. But it
was not all play ; the force was worked to the limit of its
powers to keep down crime. I never went to bed before mid-
night and, hke the rest of the men, was often up all night.
Parties had to be sent off on patrol at all hours of the day and
night to look for horse-thieves, to make sudden raids on
Indian camps, to capture lawbreakers, to lie in ambush at far
ADVENTURES OF BUCKSKIN CHARLIE 131
coulees or at lonely fords to head off criminals making south
with their plunder or tr5dng to escape the service of a warrant,
or to intercept whisky outfits on their way north to carry on
their illicit trade. I paraded all parties and went with some
of them. Life was so busy and the hours so uncertain that no
one knew when he could get a night's rest. Our guard-rooms
were gaols and penitentiaries, and even long term prisoners
sentenced in the winter had to be kept until spring, when they
could be sent by trail to Winnipeg.
These expeditions were excellent practice, and our force
could now produce a large number of first-class scouts. Every
man of two years' service had so much of it that he could find
his way to any point required for hundreds of miles round.
In May, 1878, headquarters had to be moved to the Cypress
HiUs on account of the large numbers of Indians hunting
buffalo near Fort Walsh.
In June a strong party of recruits arrived. Mr. James
Christie came from Idaho with a large band of bronchos and,
as few of them ever had a man's hand on them, some of our
men and a fifteen year old broncho buster, known as " Buck-
skin Charlie," were put to work to " gentle " them. " Buck-
skin " was a handsome lad. I beheve he had a history. He
had suddenly appeared at a horse ranch in Montana, clad in
buckskin from head to foot, and asked for work. He was
promised that, if he could ride, he would be given plenty to do
and good wages, and there were a large number of untamed
bronchos to break. There was a narrow door to the corral
with high side posts and a cross bar on top, upon which CharHe
mounted and requested the rancher to drive his wildest horse
through it. This was done, and he proved his horsemanship
by dropping on the animal's back as it passed beneath him
and riding it without saddle or bridle, in spite of its wild
bucking, until it was tame. Charhe had taken part in a buffalo
run the previous year and, riding alongside a large bull, sprang
from the saddle to its back and, hanging on to its long hair,
rode it until he was tired, finally shooting the buffalo to enable
him to dismount.
Some of Christie's wild horses were very good jumpers,
although raised on the plains. One of them, when I was
132 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
drilling a ride in a log corral which answered for a manege,
suddenly broke away from the circle and, galloping down the
enclosure some 80 yards in length, jumped the fence at the
farthest end. The recruit, afterwards one of our best riders,
threw himself off after he had safely landed on the other side.
I asked him why he had done so, and he replied : " For fear
of going over the fence ! " He meant this, for he did not know
that he had cleared the obstacle. I measured the fence at the
place where the horse jumped it and found it to be six feet
eight inches. The same horse some years later cleared seven
feet two inches.
The first white women came to Cypress Hills during the
spring. They were the mother and sisters of ex-Constable
Graham, from Mulmer, co. Simcoe, Ontario. Graham and his
two brothers came with them and settled down to work. One
of the young fellows joined the force.
The Indians encamped in and hunting round the Cypress
Hills when we arrived from Fort Macleod, were Sioux, Assini-
boines, Saulteaux, Blackfeet, Sarcees and Crees. These
Indians had fought fiercely amongst themselves from time
immemorial, but were now at peace. The Crees style the Sioux
" Po-en " or " Po-el," i.e., Enemies, and the Assiniboines, on
account of their relationship to the Sioux and their custom of
using hot stones to generate steam for a sort of Turkish bath,
they call Stone Enemies — " Assinee Po-en," or " Assinee
Po-el." The Assiniboines were handsome and more frank and
open than the Crees, who were of a crafty, cunning character.
All the Indians liked to visit the fort and the stores in the
valley, where they amused themselves with pony races. In
these there was no jockeying for a start ; they rode hard from
start to finish, and the best horse won.
A short time after the force had settled down in the fort
the Assiniboines held their annual Sun or Medicine Dance on
the north side of the Cypress Hills, and I rode over there with
several others to witness the ceremony, which is for the
initiation of warriors, and gives one a good idea of the endur-
ance of the red man.
I have seen many Sun Dances by different tribes, but none
of them equalled the dance in the Cypress Hills. In the
THE INITIATION OF A BRAVE 133
centre of the Medicine Lodge was a large post which supported
the fabric, and a raihng of rough sapUngs ran three-quarters of
the way round the inside of the lodge, from the left-hand side
of the door or entrance. Behind this was a single rank of
braves close together, each with a whistle in his mouth secured
by a string tied round the back of his neck. These neither ate
nor drank until the ceremony was concluded. The whistles
were kept going to the beat of the tom-toms.
The Medicine Man of the tribe, naked to the waist, stood
near the centre, ready to administer the torture, and when
the proper time came the candidates, partly stripped and
painted, came forward, accompanied by their female relations.
They were taken hold of by the medicine man, who, with the
aid of the women, drove sharp skewers of hard wood through
the thick muscles of the breast, secured them to the double
tails of a lariat (raw hide lasso) attached to the upper part of
the post, and when this was completed the young brave, to
the low, deep chant of the warriors, the shrill whistUng and
drumming of the musicians, and the unearthly shrieks of the
women in the lodge, threw his weight back upon the lariat
until the skewers were torn from the flesh. This ordeal made
him a warrior, and the next candidate came forward to go
through the torture, which was occasionally varied by attach-
ing to the skewers passed through the muscles beneath the
shoulder blades a couple of heavy buffalo skulls, which were
dragged round till the flesh parted and the skewers came out.
Sometimes skulls of buffalo were fastened to skewers passed
through the muscles of the back and chest, the candidate being
compelled to dance until the weight of the skulls tore the
skewers out of the quivering flesh. These severe tests of
endurance were borne by the young braves with the greatest
fortitude ; no cry or moan escaped their lips, their teeth were
set and drops of agony stood in beads on their foreheads, but
there was nothing more to indicate that they were in pain.
During this weird performance large numbers of braves
belonging to the tribe, all in feathers and war paint, stood
round the Medicine Lodge viewing the proceedings with great
interest, to aU appearance anxious that the young braves
should pass successfully through their severe trial ; for if they
134 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
failed they could not be warriors, and when the braves went
on the warpath would be obliged to remain in camp with the
women and children.
Each tribe of Indians has a sign of its own which they will
make when they are asked what they are. The Crow sign is
both hands held extended beside the head, palms to the front,
flapped up and down as the wings of the crow. The Pawnees,
or Wolves, hold the hands above the ears with the knuckles
of the forefinger of each hand held to represent the sharp ears
of the wolf ; the Peigans, or " Painted Faces," rub the knuckles
of the right hand on the right cheek as if applying paint ; the
Bloods draw the forefinger of the right hand along and through
the closed lips from left to right ; the Blackfeet make a motion
with the extended hand towards the feet, and so on throughout
the whole of the red men of the plains. The Crees, Ojibbeways
or Saulteaux, having been for centuries, one may say, in closer
contact with the white man, and the latter having learned the
language, are not quite so good sign talkers as the other great
tribes.
The winter of 1878-9 in the north west was exceptionally
severe. Blizzards were common. After Christmas orders
were received to take a census of the half-breeds in the north
west. I was detailed to take that in the vicinity of Fort
Macleod and Calgary. I left Fort Walsh in the afternoon of
January 3, taking with me two constables and a fine old haK-
breed plain-hunter named Foley as an interpreter. Foley and
I were riding and the two men, Mills and Holtorf, drove
jumpers (small sleighs with shafts), each drawn by a pony.
MiUs was a small, active Irishman, Holtorf a tall, strong German
Canadian. We took with us eight days' rations and forage in
the belief that it would be sufficient.
The weather was extremely cold and our provisions and
forage ran short. To make matters worse, the ponies in the
jumpers showed signs of " playing out," and on Belly River
we got into a maze of coulees very difficult to pass and very
deep, so I decided to leave the sleighs and baggage there and
mount Holtorf and Mills on the ponies. As Foley said he did
not know the way to the Old Man's River I took the lead and
we struggled along through the deep snow for some hours.
A NEAR THING 135
Darkness and a blizzard came upon us, and presently my horse
halted and refused to go, whereupon I dismounted and found
that the wise brute was within a yard of the high precipitous
bank of the Belly River, some distance below old, abandoned
Fort Kipp, and another step would have launched us on to
the ice at least 100 feet below.
Next morning the bHzzard still raged ; the snow was too
deep for them to walk, and as Foley's horse and mine were
very strong and in good condition, the men were mounted
behind us. In the teeth of the bUnding snowstorm we rode
up the valley until we reached Fort Kipp, where we had hoped
to hght a fire ; the effort was in vain, however, there was no
fuel, and the dry cottonwood logs of the old buildings were so
smooth and hard that had we tried to set the place on fire it
would have been impossible. There was, therefore, no help
for it but to push on to Fort Macleod, 17 miles distant.
The bhzzard became worse as we mounted the hill to the
westward, and there was no sign of a trail, but with a good
idea of the right direction I led the way until Foley cried out,
** The man behind you is freezing to death." Holtorf was
behind me, and when I dismounted I found that he was going
into the death sleep, and I pounded, shook and slapped him,
saying, " A nice fellow you are, to try and steal off in this
way ! You must wait a while, you are too young to die yet,
wait a while ! " These exhortations had the desired effect, and
we pushed along for some time at a slow walk until I had to
call out to Foley, who was now riding on my left, " The man
behind you is freezing to death I " whereupon Mills was dragged
off the horse, shaken, cuffed and reproached for his apparent
willingness to leave this world of care and cold. This sort of
thing had to be repeated several times, and I began to have mis-
givings as to our chances of bringing the poor fellows through.
I had Holtorf dismounted for what seemed to be the last
chance for him, when I saw Mr. Joseph Macfarland's Pioneer
ranch, four miles east of Fort Macleod. Letting the horse
follow me, I supported the man to the door, where we were
met by Mrs. Macfarland with a kindly Irish welcome. We had
been nearly four days without food, but neither Foley nor I
felt any ill-effects from the storm and lack of food.
136 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
A short time after my return, one of the Mackays of Fort
Walsh, who had been out hunting buffalo near the forks of
the Red Deer, lOo miles north of the fort, brought in some
Cree Indians, who complained to Lt.-Col. Irvine that Wandering
Spirit, the head soldier of Big Bear's band, had enforced the
old law of the plains upon them when they were hunting, by
confiscating their ponies, cutting up their harness and com-
mitting assaults upon them and their women.
On hearing this a strong party was sent out under my
charge. We had with us two interpreters. Potts and LeveiU^e,
Blackfoot and Cree ; they were both tough enough, but the
latter seemed to care nothing for the cold, his only covering
at night being a thin, single blanket, which he wrapped round
him when he turned in for his night's rest. He was tall and
well knit, about 66 years of age, with all the vivacity
and politeness of his French ancestors. Being good natured,
he was much chaffed by the men, with whom he was a great
favourite. One of them, an Irishman, invariably called him
" father-in-law," and proposed in jest for the hand of one of
his numerous daughters, a suggestion which was taken in
earnest, but refused for the reason that his daughters had to
marry men who would settle down to a quiet life, not wanderers
like the men of the force.
Leveillee would never fail to bow to the officers or touch his
hat gracefully and pohtely to any who addressed him, no
matter who they might be. When first with the force in
1874 he was employed to hunt buffalo near Fort Macleod.
When he came into the post at night he would report direct
to Colonel Macleod saying, " Three fine buffalo, my dear
Curnell, all for you, my dear Curnell ! " He had, like his
compatriots, hunted on the plains from childhood, and had
been in many fights with the Sioux, whose country was nearest
to the half-breeds. The marks of these encounters he bore
on his body ; several bullets had passed through his chest,
and it was marvellous to our surgeons how he had survived
them. He had once been unhorsed by a buffalo bull and had
lain on the ground as if dead, while the huge beast turned him
over with his nose, trying to gore him. He had sufficient
presence of mind to he perfectly still. A short time before.
CHIEF BIG BEAR, OF THE PLAIN CREES, I
JERRY POTTS, INTERPRETER 137
one of his relatives had been caught in the same way, but,
being of a nervous disposition, he could not remain quiet,
and, half-rising to escape, was gored to death.
Potts was of an entirely different temperament from
Leveill^e, seldom smiling when a joke passed ; no one attemp-
ted light conversation with him, although he was very good
tempered. It was difficult to get from him an account of
his very eventful hfe, but occasionally, when few were
near, he might be drawn out. I have had many chats
with men who had been in all sorts of adventures on the
western plains from the Gulf of Mexico to their northern
limit, but none were more interesting than our favourite
Jerry Potts.
He had been thrown on his own resources from the age of
sixteen, when his father, a fine old Scotchman, had been
murdered by an Indian. Old Mr. Potts was of a very re-
spectable family, had relatives in Edinburgh who were of the
learned professions, and it had been his intention at one time
to send his son there to be educated. He was in charge of the
American Fur Company's post at Benton at the time of his
death, and had with him, amongst the employees of the
Company, a man who one day quarrelled with an Indian.
The man's duty was to close the shutters of the store at night,
and the Indian, still angry and determined on revenge, went
out and lay in the brush outside the fort, whence he could see
the upper windows of the stores and shoot his enemy when he
came to close the shutters. On this occasion, however, Mr.
Potts had something else for him to do, and himself went to
the window. As he stretched out his arm to unhook the
shutter, the Indian, taking him for his man, fired with fatal
effect, then fled to his camp several hundreds of miles away.
Young Jerry was soon in hot pursuit of the murderer, whom he
followed to the midst of his people, and shot him dead before
the whole band. The Indians, in admiration of the lad's
pluck, and also liking his father, spared his hfe and ever after
looked upon him as Big Medicine.
One of the most remarkable adventures in which Potts took
part was during the days of prospecting for precious metals
in Montana. He had been hired as a guide by Major George
138 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Steell, known to the Indians as " Sleeping Thunder " on
account of the fiery spirit that lay beneath a calm exterior.
They went prospecting, taking a young tenderfoot with
them. After a long time the little party found nothing and
were returning home, but still far from it, when a band of
about 200 Sioux warriors on the warpath rode out from a
coulee and gave chase at full speed. The three white men
rode for their lives for a short distance, whilst they consulted
as to what course they would pursue, and finally decided that
as the Indians would make the running and thus eventually
get them, it would be best to turn suddenly, charge through
the red men, firing right and left, and make their way as fast
as possible to a deserted log cabin about two miles further
back. No sooner decided than acted upon. They dashed
through the Indians at a great rate, taking them quite by
surprise, and reached the cabin in time to off-saddle and let
the horses go, which they had to do as the door was too low
to admit them, and hurry inside.
The door was off its hinges, so they placed it on its side
across the entrance, braced it with some logs left beside the
fireplace by the former occupant, and stood rifle in hand and
revolver ready for the assault which was sure to come. At a
considerable distance from the cabin the Indians dismounted
and rushed at them, receiving the fire of the defenders of the
hut. Several were killed, but a number of attacks were
made. Potts killed five Sioux with his revolver through the
chinks between the logs. The first assaults failing, the Indians
drew off some distance and waited for darkness to come, so
that they could burn them out, but Potts knew a trick better
than to wait. He took one of the saddle blankets, wrapped it
round him in Indian fashion, crept out of the cabin when it
grew dark, went round behind it on hands and knees and
walked a quarter of a mile back, keeping the cabin between
him and the Sioux. He then strolled round to a point behind
them, went amongst them as if he were one of themselves
and, finding some of the horses loose, took three of them back
the way he had come, brought them close behind the cabin,
where he and his comrades mounted and made off. As they
galloped over the hill. Potts could not resist a war whoop of
INDIAN HONESTY 139
defiance. It was too late for the Indians to pursue now, their
prey had too long a start !
We reached the forks of the Red Deer and South Saskatche-
wan, three days from Fort Walsh, and on arrival encamped
amongst the trees.
Next morning we secured a few of Big Bear's men, who were
concealed in lodges up the valley of the Red Deer, and in the
evening sixteen of us pushed on to where there were some
Indian lodges amongst the trees. We surrounded the lodges
and secured the last of the gang.
On our return we picked up our caches of provisions as we
went along, and in one of them we noticed that a handful of
biscuits had been taken from the box. There were moccasin
tracks about, but knowing that they must have been extracted
by some one who needed food, nothing was thought of it.
When we returned to the fort an Indian came to offer payment
for the biscuit which he had taken " because he was hungry
and knew that we had enough." Such was the Indian before
he came in contact with the low white. It was perfectly safe
in those days to leave an5rthing out of doors, neither Indian
nor white man would touch it. The former, and sometimes
the latter, would steal the horses of their enemies, but the
Indian looked upon that as war and an honourable act.
Our prisoners were tried by Colonel Irvine the day after our
return, and were given several months' imprisonment, which
might appear to be sufficient punishment, but after events
proved that the longest term that could be given to the
wretches who composed Big Bear's soldier lodge would be
none too much for them.
There was a strange bird in the fort which gave the lie to
any assertion that a goose is not highly intelligent. It had
been caught by one of the men and soon became a great pet.
During the winter it was fed in the barracks, in summer-time
it grazed on the parade ground outside the post, and when
first post sounded came in and placed itself on a flat stone
near the guard-room door. It was to be seen there both
winter and summer until the reveille sounded. The beat of
the sentry extended to the gate and he had orders to leave it
occasionally to visit the stables, and, if anyone had any doubts
140 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
as to the regular performance of that duty, the goose removed
them by setting up a series of yells in goose language from the
moment the sentry left his beat until he returned. On very
cold nights the bird would tap on the guard-room window with
its beak until admitted to have a warm at the stove, and
when sufficiently comfortable it left the room on the first
opportunity given to it by some one entering or leaving, and
resumed watch on the flat stone. In the daytime, when
inside the fort, the goose kept its eye on strange dogs, and when
one appeared there was an immediate attack and fierce
flapping of wings until the intruder departed through the
gate !
CHAPTER IX
Postal facilities in the north west — A fraudulent contractor — American
hospitality- — Civil War veterans — Changes in the force — An
unsuccessful experiment — Horse stealing — An accident — A bad
attack of fever — A mysterious murder — The buffalo lost to Canada
• — Hardships of the north west' — A Masonic banquet — The mystery
cleared up — A courageous arrest — A scandalous verdict' — Trouble
with the Sarcees — Horse thieves — Moose Jaw Bone — Fort Qu'ap-
pelle — ^The last fight between Indians in Canada — A ludicrous
episode — Colonel Macleod's resignation — Lt.-Col. Irvine succeeds
him' — My winter quarters — Snow blindness' — An old plain-hunter's
remedy — An agricultural experiment — Sitting Bull again — He
surrenders to the United States — ^The Governor General's tour —
His reception in the west — The Indian chiefs' welcome — ^The
Governor General on the duties of the Mounted Police.
THE postal communication of the southern half of the
North West Territories in 1879-80 had not changed
from what it had been some years previously. There
were no post offices between the Rocky Mountains
and the western boundary of Manitoba, a distance of at least
750 miles. Everyone posted his letters in the orderly-room
of the Mounted Pohce at Calgary, Fort Macleod, Fort Walsh
and Wood Mountain. United States postage stamps were
used, the nearest post offices being in the United States. The
orderly-room clerks made up and sorted the mails, which were
carried to their destination by contract with the Mounted
Police. Fort Walsh, Fort Macleod and Calgary had weekly
mails to the south. From Wood Mountain to Fort Walsh and
thence to Fort Macleod they were once a fortnight, and from
Battleford, 300 miles, once every three weeks, and with few
exceptions, had only official mails for the force. In the north
mails were sent out by contract with the Post Office Depart-
ment and picked up at the Hudson's Bay and Mounted Police
posts en route.
In June, 1879, I was ordered to the Coal Banks of the
141
142 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Missouri to meet a large party of recruits who were coming
up that river from Bismark, Dakota.
Four companies of United States infantry were encamped
close to the bank of the river on the cactus-covered alkaline
flat. I called on Captain Durham, the commanding officer of
the detachment, and reported to him my business at the
Coal Banks and the number of men with me, and I had not
been long in his tent when a number of officers called to have
a game of whist. Mr. W , a well-known citizen of Fort
Benton, came at the same time, and we sat down to the game.
He took a hand in with the rest of us and made himself very
agreeable. He had a contract for the supply of wood to the
camp for the coming season.
The game was going on very pleasantly when the quarter-
master reported to Captain Durham that there was something
very peculiar in the construction of the piles of wood suppUed
by the suave contractor, and Captain Durham asked me to
accompany him to the spot, where an examination of them
showed that they were hollow, except those outside. These
and the ends were so closely piled that without the careful
inspection which we then made this could not be easily
detected. Captain Durham expressed himself very much
surprised that any respectable man would be guilty of such
deception, but old W protested that his men had done it
without his knowledge and were a bad lot. No one believed
him, however, and he had to set his men to work and rebuild
the whole of it. Some people seem to think it is no disgrace
to rob the government.
The officers of the i8th called next day in a group and asked
me to dinner. I found them very pleasant and kindly men of
large experience. All had fought through the great battles
in Virginia during the Civil War. The senior heutenant had
commanded the 62nd New York Infantry from the time he
left West Point Academy in 1862 until the end, and another
had been in the whole of the operations for the capture of
Richmond and had been wounded several times.
On our return we were held up at Fort Benton by incessant
rain. It was garrisoned by the 3rd Infantry, and during our
halt I met some remarkable characters. One of the most
SHORT SHRIFT FOR HORSE-THIEVES 143
interesting was a veteran of the Civil War who had been on
General Grant's staff at the siege of Vicksburg and was an
intense admirer of that distinguished soldier. The gallant
major, for such was his rank, was a great talker and stayer,
very interesting to me, but there were others who had heard
his yams before and had not time for a repetition of them.
One of these men pinned a paper skeleton in the inside of his
coat with the inscription above, "This man was talked to
death ! " and, when the major was deep in one of his yams,
exposed it to view, by putting his thumbs in the arm-holes of
his waistcoat and drawing back his elbows. After that for
some time they passed without speaking, until the major, in
his good nature, had forgotten the incident.
The brothers Conrad were very hospitable and did a great
deal to make us comfortable during our stay in the frontier
village. They belonged to an old Virginian family and had
served in Stuart's cavalry during the Civil War. The town
of Fort Benton had been the scene of many strange doings
from the time when it was first a trading post of the American
Fur Company. Even in our day short shrift had been given
to many a horse-thief. There was a magistrate, a sheriff, and
deputies, and unless the accused was a horse-thief he would
get a fair trial. Five years later, however, there were 40
genuine or alleged horse-thieves hanged by the vigilantes
improvised for the occasion. The magistrate was a man who,
having led a Fenian Raid on Manitoba in 1871, had no liking
for Britishers and made a practice of measuring their fines by
the amount of money they had in their pockets when arrested.
When we got back to Fort Walsh we found that many
changes had been arranged for the force. Inspectors were to
be known in future as superintendents ; sub-inspectors as
inspectors ; and mihtary ranks, which had always been
customary with the N.C.O.'s instead of the cumbrous official
terms, were confirmed by law. The pay for those who wished
to re-engage when their time was up had been lowered to 50
cents a day. The recruits who had just arrived were being
paid 75 cents ; they were to be the last, however ; the next
lot were to receive only 40 cents. The consequence of this
remarkable regulation was that none of the old hands would
144 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
re-engage to get less pay than the recruits. No high-spirited
man would submit to such treatment, and the result was that
the force was given a blow from which it took some years to
recover.
I have never been able to fathom the reason for this change,
but before that I heard senior officers state that our men were
too well educated, that a rough lot would have been better,
and there were frequent arguments on the subject. A trial
of the class advocated proved how foolish it was to take such
men, and the pay had to be raised again by a sliding scale to
75 cents per day.
In July there were many Indians in the Cypress Hills —
Assiniboines, Sioux and Saulteaux — who had been hunting to
the south-east. " Little Child," the Saulteaux chief, was a very
fine Indian, with the dark copper colour and keen eyes of the
tribe. The Indian custom of buying wives was very much in
evidence at this time ; some of the younger squaws were held
by their fathers at high prices, and one Saulteaux girl was
valued at thirty horses, although the usual price or present
was a rifle or one horse I
Many stolen horses were brought into the hills that summer.
The American owners generally came after them and reported
at the fort ; then there was some careful scouting for the
stolen property, which was invariably found and restored to
the rightful owner. Much time was taken up by these claim-
ants, but they always went away well pleased with the prompt-
ness of the force. For these services no charges were made
against the owners, their sole expenses being their trip into
Canada. The foreigner received the same treatment as our
own people, but in our case we could get no criminals of the
horse-stealing class extradited from south of the border line.
The neighbouring States made their own laws, but had for-
gotten to provide one which would permit them to return our
neighbourly act, and the extradition treaty between Canada
and the United States was the worst that the British Empire
had with any country. It is better now, I am pleased to note.
The Indian treaty payments came in September, and the
usual escorts, under the command of an officer, had to be sent
to protect the agent and other officials and assist, if need be.
THE PIONEER'S HARDSHIPS 145
in the work. This left the barracks with but few officers and,
as there was danger of the horses being run off with by a raid
of thieves, it was necessary to have an ofl&cer in charge of the
horse camp. I was detailed with only one old hand in the
party, the rest, having joined in the spring, were not yet
capable prairie men, consequently we had to exercise a great
deal of care.
The herd stampeded one night, and the old hand and I had
to go out in every direction to round them up. I was " loping "
along in the Six Mile Coulee, east of Fort Walsh, when my horse
turned a somersault through putting his foot in a concealed
badger hole, and struck me between the shoulders with the
oak cantle of the saddle, breaking it and twisting the ironwork.
The poor animal rolled over my head and remained there
several seconds before I could extricate myself, and when he
staggered to his feet the blood poured from his nostrils, as his
head had struck the gravel and stones, giving him a severe
shock. When I got back to camp he had to be put off duty for
a few days.
My next misfortune was a severe attack of fever, typho-
malarial they called it. I had been in bed only a few days
when I felt well enough to go and pay a visit to my friend,
Frank Clark, who had been stricken down with the same
disease. The state in which I found him will give an idea of
the hardships of the pioneer, and when I saw him I pictured
to myself the contrast between his surroundings and those of
his childhood in his happy southern home. The sight would
have driven any doctor or nurse distracted, but there was no
help for it, for our hospital was full already, and there was no
other. There was no ventilation, there was no nurse, and the
poor fellow lay in the corner of his log shack, a group of Indians
sitting in one corner of the room and along the wall, whilst
myriads of flies buzzed round him in the stifling atmosphere.
I tried to cheer him up, but I could see that it was useless, as
he had, no doubt, made up his mind to die. I turned the Indians
out, however, and persuaded an Indian boy to fan the flies off ;
but I suppose he gave up the task as soon as my back was
turned.
When I returned to my quarters I had a relapse and was
146 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
soon at death's door. Our doctor did his best for me, but was
soon in the hospital himself with the same disease, and Surgeon
Kennedy had to be sent for from Fort Macleod. When Kennedy
arrived he had his hands fuU, with 60 patients to attend to,
and no nurses except our own men, who did their best. My
nurse was my man Holtorf, the yoimg German Canadian who
was in the bhzzard with me the previous winter, and a good,
kind one he was, going to all sorts of trouble to make me com-
fortable. I liked cool spring water, and he would ride several
miles up the mountain every day to get me a pailful of it. I
became very weak, however, in spite of all the kindness and
attention of Kennedy and his staff, and at last, as I appeared
to be near my end, he asked me if I had any message to send
to my relatives, but I had not, for although I had every bad
symptom I would not give in. I felt a confidence that was not
warranted by my appearance, for I was a perfect skeleton, and
the others had no hope of my recovery. I learned this one
night when Holtorf opened the door stealthily and crept in
on his hands and knees, dragging a blanket with him to the
foot of the bed, where he lay awaiting my departure. This
actually amused me, and I laughed at the idea, but the effect
of this was good, and I was out of danger in the morning. It
was, however, many a long day before I was able to walk about
without the aid of a stick, and when I returned to duty and
had to parade the guard I had temporarily lost my memory.
After the treaty pajmients, large numbers of the Indians
came to the hills to hunt buffalo, but there were none. They
were south of the border on their way north, and if left alone
would have returned to Canada. Lt.-Col. Irvine did his best
to induce the Indians and the Metis hunters to remain near
Fort Walsh, and rations were issued to them, but all was in
vain. The Sioux from Wood Mountain, Pinto Horse Butte,
and other points east of us along the border Une began to hunt
on the north side of the great herd, turning it back into the
United States, whence it was never to return.
About the end of November one of the men of the force, a
mere lad, named Greyburn, was murdered by a Blood Indian.
He had been on duty at the herd camp, three miles up the creek
from the fort, and had been sent to get a picket rope and an
A BRUTAL MURDER 147
axe which had been forgotten at the last camp a mile further
up the creek. As the lad did not return when expected, a
search was made and, no trace of him being found, a report
was sent into the fort. From there a party reinforced the men
at the herd camp, and patrols circled for trails in the vicinity
until darkness compelled them to desist. Next morning we
were at it again, and Jerry Potts finally came upon the trail,
which had been covered up with snow. His horse walking
through it exposed blood, and a further search revealed the
lad's hat hanging on a bush, and in a ravine below it the body
was found where it had been thrown by the murderers. The
lad's horse had been led into the woods near by, tied to a tree
and shot dead.
We tried to track the murderer out on to the open prairie,
but a Chinook had sprung up and melted the snow, and, the
ground being frozen, not a trace was left. Patrols and scouts
of the force searched every hollow where snow might still lie,
but in vain. Sufficient had been learned, however, to prove
that the murdered man, after leaving the herd camp, had been
joined by two Indians and had ridden along with them, no
doubt conversing, when one of them halted suddenly and fired
a shot into his back. He had fallen head foremost, but there
would have been no trace of it there had not Potts' horse
kicked up the snow. The motive of this outrage was revenge,
but for a long time it was a mystery. No one would beUeve
that the poor yoimg lad had given the murderer the slightest
cause for it. He spoke the Blackfeet language well, although
he was a recruit of the previous spring, and was a favourite
with his comrades and appeared to be so with the Indians.
The winter of 1879-80 set in with as great severity as the
previous one, and the numerous Indians who had come to the
Cypress HiUs in the autumn would have starved to death had
it not been for our efforts. Rations were issued to at least
500, whose horses were unable to proceed after their trek from
the north, but inducements were held out to the remainder
to follow the buffalo into the United States before traveUing
became too difficult on account of the depth of the snow.
The majority took this advice, but a considerable number,
knowing that we would not permit them to starve, remained
148 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
in the hills round the post. Their lodges were to be seen in
every hollow or sheltered spot in the vicinity. Starvation
stared them in the face, and the force were put to a severe test
to prevent it. Two hundred of the Indians were sent to the
Island Lake to the north of the hiUs to be near some cattle
herded there by the Indian Department. Provisions were
hauled to the camp through the deep snow by our teams, often
a distance of 70 miles, the condition of the Indian ponies being
such that they could not transport their own supphes. Fish
nets were purchased, and some of the men were out all winter
to teach the Indians how to manage them, an art of which the
plain Indians knew nothing.
Towards spring fish were plentiful in the small creeks, and
many of the Indians were issued rations and ammunition to
enable them to hunt the smaller game, such as antelope and
deer. In this way starvation was prevented until they would
be able to travel to their reserves, where they would find food
provided for them. In the spring large numbers of them, who
had gone south, came back to Fort Walsh, their search for
buffalo having been unsuccessful. The herds had been almost
totally destroyed by the large number of Indians and ruthless
white hunters who had been sent by the merchants of the
United States, who were in the robe trade, to slaughter the
noble animals for their hides alone. This resulted in the
wretched Indians, once the wealthiest and happiest of
primitive races, being forced to loiter about frontier posts
and villages, to live on garbage or the contents of swill barrels
not fit for hogs to eat.
Messengers had been sent by Major Crozier to ask the Indians
to return to Canada as soon as the prairie was passable, and
when they began to move north our teams were sent to meet
them with provisions. During the winter and spring our men
were constantly on the trail to assist them, and when the last
of the Indians had assembled round us, they numbered at
least 5,000. These consisted of every tribe of plain Indians,
Crees, Asstniboines, Blackfeet, Bloods, Peigans, Sarcees and
Sioux. Some of the trips taken by the members of the force
in connection with Indian affairs and other duties were of the
most trying character.
A FATAL MISTAKE 149
This is not to say that the men of the force were the only
persons to endure hardships. The whole of the inhabitants of
the south, and many of the north, were obhged to travel on
the plains, and often underwent much suffering. In the winter
of which I write an instance came under our notice which is
worth mentioning. A young man, who had come to Fort
Walsh from Montana early in the winter, obtained employ-
ment as a trader for I. G. Baker & Co., who had placed him
in charge of their east end post, many miles from Fort Walsh.
On one occasion he was obliged to visit the post for more
supplies. On his way back to his camp he halted for the night
at the coulee, six miles from Fort Walsh, picketed his horse
and lay down. Unfortunately he took off his moccasins, a mad
thing to do, and which no one of experience would attempt.
He woke during the night to find that the pony had broken
loose from the picket line and was some distance off. He ran
after it, picketed it again and lay down, to be again aroused by
the animal breaking the picket line and getting beyond his
reach. He tried to rise, but in vain ; his feet were frozen.
There was nothing for it but to crawl to Fort Walsh on all
fours, and he had reached a point within one mile of the post
and was sitting exhausted in a snowdrift, when found by one of
the constables, who lifted him on his horse and brought him to
our hospital, where, had his heart been strong, he would have
recovered. This was an exceptional case, and could not have
been the experience of anyone accustomed to prairie travel in
winter, and for us the rules were so strict and the men so
suitably clad for any season that as long as they had food
they were safe. We were never allowed to travel alone, no
matter how much we were accustomed to the plains, and
wherever Major Crozier was in command aU hands had to
show kit before they left the post, so that nothing they
required would be left behind. He was always anxious about
his men when they were out in stormy weather.
It must not be supposed from what I have written that it was
all work and no play at Fort Walsh. An ex-member of the
force, who had served as a French conscript through the
Franco-Prussian War, had erected a large hall, which we used
to his great profit as a theatre, dance hall and church.
150 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
The first Masonic banquet in the north-west was held at
Fort Walsh in 1880 ; Major Crozier was chairman and I was
vice-chairman. There were no Masonic lodges in the territory
at that time, and it was felt that something should be done
to show that there were masons, if there were no lodges. The
banquet was quite a large affair and proved to be a great
success, all taking part enthusiastically without regard to creed»
nationality or language.
It was late in the winter when we had a clue to the murder
of Constable Gray bum, but at last, by occasional talks with the
interpreters, who in turn sounded the Indians, two Blood braves,
who had been charged with horse-stealing, were arrested and
confined to the guard-room cells. Crozier remanded them for
some days, and while they were awaiting trial we learned that
they had been encamped near our herd at the time of the mur-
der and knew all about it. There was at this date a large camp
of Bloods on the rising ground before the fort, and in it the
wives of the two Bloods were living, during the time they were
in prison, and were permitted to see them at intervals of a few
days.
The prisoners soon came to the conclusion that they had
more than horse-stealing against them, and made up their
minds to escape as soon as possible. This they attempted one
very fine spring altemoon, when, with another of the same
tribe, they were taken out for exercise, escorted by two of the
guard. No sooner had they cleared the gate than they made
a bold dash for liberty, leaving the other Indian, who knew
nothing of the attempt, standing aghast at the sudden break.
They were followed by the escort in their long boots, poor foot-
wear for a race after moccasined red-skins. As the escaping
Bloods rushed swiftly through the camp on the hill, their
wives, who were on the look-out, handed them their Winches-
ters and belts of ammunition. The other Indian, thinking
that he should follow their example, fled in the opposite direc-
tion.
Crozier, Cotton and Kennedy were playing tennis in front
of the post and, when they saw the escape, followed the fugi-
tives. I sent the first men who turned out after them, mounted.
They caught up to the Indians in about half a mile. Ignoring
A COURAGEOUS ARREST 151
their levelled rifles, they rode at them and soon had them
back in their old quarters in the guard-room. Their attempt
to escape having failed, the two asked to see Crozier at mid-
night in his quarters, and, after the windows had been covered
with blankets so that no hght could be seen from the outside,
they gave him the name, description and full particulars of
the Indian who had murdered Graybum.
A despatch was then sent to Colonel Macleod, who was in
Benton, to the effect that the murderer was lurking in the fast-
nesses of the Bear Paw Mountains, and he asked the American
authorities in legal form for his arrest, but, unless he could
pay at once 5,000 dollars in cash, the sheriff would not make
the attempt, and we were, in consequence, obliged to wait
until the accused would venture back to Canada, for an
opportunity to capture him. This did not present itself
until 1881, when Sergeant Patterson at Macleod learned that
he was in the Blood camp, and proceeded there, accompanied
by Jerry Potts and two constables. They arrived at dawn
and went to the lodge in which the murderer. Star Child by
name, was concealed, their intention being to take him without
alarming the camp, which, it was beheved, was hostile. The
Indian came out at dawn, fully armed ; covering Patterson
with his rifle he told him that he would shoot if he moved hand
or foot, but the sergeant, as a ruse, spoke as if addressing
someone behind Star Child, causing him to turn his head,
whereupon Patterson threw himself upon him. In the struggle
the rifle went off, rousing the whole camp, and the Indians
turned out in hundreds. In the meantime Patterson had
the murderer beneath him half choked, and finally handcuffed
him while Jerry Potts, Chief Red Crow, Strangling Wolf, One
Spot and Constable Wilson, by threats and exhortations, kept
the remainder at bay. The sergeant then took Star Child
towards Macleod at the fuU speed of his horse, supported by
Potts and the constables, followed by the majority of the band
as far as the fort, where they were forced to halt and turn back.
Star Child confessed to the murder, and there was corrobora-
tive evidence, but in spite of it all the jury disagreed and he
was set free, to be arrested for horse-steahng a few years later
and sent to the penitentiary for five years. There is no doubt
152 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
that the jurymen who were for acquittal were afraid that the
conviction would bring on an Indian war, or cause the Bloods
to kill their stock out of revenge. This idea was sheer non-
sense, of course, but it was certainly in the minds of some of
the jury.
The day following the recapture of the two Bloods, the
young horse-thief, who had escaped at the same time, was
found in a dying condition in the backyard of one of the married
men, living a few hundred yards from the fort. The weather,
which had been delightful for some weeks past, became stormy,
accompanied by sleet and snow, and the poor Indian lad, not
being clad for such an emergency, perished within easy reach
of aid. The occupant of the cabin heard him groaning for a
long time, but was afraid to go outside at first to see what
was the matter ; at last, however, he plucked up his courage
and reported the circumstances to me, and I sent a stretcher
and bearing party to bring the Indian in, but by the time he
was brought to the hospital he was beyond human help. This
caused some excitement amongst the Blackfeet who were in
the vicinity, and they asked to see the remains, having got the
idea into their heads that we had hanged him. Kennedy
went into the case, and with some difficulty persuaded them
that their relative had died a natural death.
The large number of Indians now in the hills round the fort
gave us a great deal of anxiety. Horse-steahng became preva-
lent amongst them, many of them coming over from the
United States to run off the herds. Our own Indians were
not free from the offence, and the Sarcees began the trouble
by steaUng from the Assiniboines. They came to the fort to
lay a complaint, and one night, with a strong party and the
interpreter, I went after them. The whole of the Sarcees were
in the camp, and to take them by surprise we stole cautiously
up a coulee. The scouts crept up the hill at the head of the
coulee and reported all quiet.
The Indians seemed to be in deep slumber, and keeping a
small reserve on the outside I threw a circle of men round the
camp, which we then entered. The whole of the Indians by
this time were out in the centre of the large ring of tents, the
men with their rifles in their hands, but the chief and headmen,
SARCEE HORSE-THIEVES 153
recognising me, called out, " How, Manistokos I " They
shook hands and said that they were ready to obey my orders.
I knew that the tribe were worth watching, and would do any-
thing to permit the horse-thieves to escape, visits to the peni-
tentiary near Winnipeg not being at all popular. I ordered
all the tribe to assemble in the middle of the circle whilst some
of our men searched the lodges and others watched every
movement of the Indians from one lodge to another. We caught
the thieves at last in the act of creeping back to lodges which
had been searched from those that had not been inspected.
Placing each thief between two men we galloped to the fort
by another trail, arriving there about noon.
Some days later Major Crozier persuaded the Sarcees to
leave for their reserves near Fort Calgary. An ample supply
of provisions was served out to them before they left and we
soon learned that they had taken with them a number of horses
which they had stolen from the Assiniboines. I sent Staff-
Sergeant Eraser and a party of six constables in pursuit. He
overtook them near the Seven Persons Coulee, about 40 miles
west, and, galloping to the front of the Sarcees where the horses
were being driven ahead, cut out the '* bunch " on the hill
on the left. He was pursued by the majority of the Indians,
who fired several rounds upon the party, but without effect,
except to wound one of the stolen horses, and they were back
in the fort within twenty-four hours, having covered 80 miles.
We were very glad to be rid of the Sarcees, the most unpre-
possessing of the plain Indians. They were originally from
the north, where they had quarrelled with some of their rela-
tives about a dog, and departed for the prairies. There they
were surrounded by so many strange tribes and were so weak
in numbers themselves that they learned the Cree and Black-
feet languages, and, having to hold their own against odds,
became very self-rehant.
We heard that winter that many of the Sioux Indians were
in a starving condition and obliged to eat their horses, which
had died of the mange caught from the buffalo robes which
had been placed on their backs as substitutes for saddles or
pads. It had spread through the whole of the north west,
Montana and Dakota, destroying thousands of horses and
154 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
ponies, and, despite our veterinary staff and great care, it got
amongst ours and was stamped out with difficulty.
In the spring we took steps to induce the Indians who had
not yet left to make an effort to go to their reserves, where
they could find food and be instructed in agriculture, raising
cattle and building houses for themselves, but none of them
departed before June, and then were with difficulty persuaded
to leave. They would take their supplies, make a show of
moving, eat them and, making ridiculous excuses for their
delay, return for more, until at last our men were placed in
charge of the rations and issued them as they were required
when the Indians were on the march.
On June 17 I left Fort Walsh for Fort Qu'appelle with eight
four-horse waggons very heavily laden. The remainder of the
men were mounted, and we had with us everything necessary
to enable us to camp and make ourselves comfortable any-
where.
The seventh day we were at Moose Jaw Creek or, as they
called it then, the Moose Jaw Bone, the Cree translation being
" The place where the white man mended the cart with the
Moose Jaw Bone," the reason being that the Earl of Mulgrave,
then an officer in the Guards, who was on a buffalo hunting
trip, spliced the broken feUoe of one of the carts of his party
with a moose jaw bone which he picked up in the vicinity and
used as a spUnt.
We reached Fort Qu'appelle in nine days, having covered
300 miles. Fort Qu'appelle was an important centre, where
several trails met. One led north to the Swan River barracks
through the Pheasant Plain ; one followed the vaUey for 30
odd miles, and then ascended the bench land and so on to Fort
EUice ; another led to Winnipeg via Portage la Prairie, and a
trail to Fort Carlton via the Touchwood Hills left the valley
through a narrow coulee on the north side. There was also
connection with Winnipeg by other routes.
The north west was not divided into Mounted Police dis-
tricts at this time, but all knew well that when a crime was
committed the first one hearing of it had to proceed and bring
the accused to the nearest and most convenient post. Our
division, roughly speaking, had to keep an eye on an extent of
THE INDIANS' LAST FIGHT 155
country about 400 miles square. Within this extensive tract
of country the Indians were being placed upon their reserves,
escorted by us, most of them having arrived from the south,
west and east during the previous two months. Some of the
reserves were more than 150 miles distant. There was no
white settlement for about 140 miles east. In that section a
number of Ontario farmers, chiefly from the counties of Huron
and Bruce, were settling on the homesteads and taking up
their pre-emptions of the same area. They were a good type
of pioneer, hospitable, industrious and law abiding.
At this date Lt.-Col. Macdonald, the Indian agent, was
absent on a tour of inspection and paying Indians, and his
sub-agent not being at home I had to take charge of the agency
for a few days. One of the Cree chiefs, Pasqua, " The Plain "
or " Prairie," came to me for rations to take him and a party
of young bucks to the United States. He had already been
refused them, when I was present, but had forgotten that I
had been with Colonel Macdonald when he applied. I, of course,
refused, and he went off very much annoyed. The colonel's
reason for refusing was that he was certain to get into mischief
over there and cause serious trouble, and this proved to be
correct, for, in spite of the rations being denied him, he took a
small war party over. Near the Missouri he came upon a
Mandan camp when the braves were away hunting, and killed
and scalped some of the old men, women and children, and
fled north. Before he had gone far the Mandan warriors-
returned and to the number of 60 gave chase, following the
trail, which forked, one branch going north west, the other
in the direction of Moose Mountain. They took the latter
and, after a long ride, caught up to a strong hunting party of
Assiniboines who were halted in their corral on the trail. On
riding up and seeing that they were not Crees, they were passing
by when an Assiniboine called out in Cree, " Where are you
going ? " The Cree tongue caused them to be suspected, and
they were attacked at once and a sharp fight was kept up for
some time until the Mandans were defeated with loss. This
was the last fight between Indians on Canadian soil. Old
Pasqua, fortunately for him and his gang, had taken the left-
hand trail, and escaped to his lair on the Qu'appelle lakes,
156 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
and it was some time before we got news of his misconduct,
no one having come north to us to complain of the outrage.
On August 6 the division had as guests, with quarters in the
guard-room, two Enghsh gentlemen, settlers from the vicinity
of Rapid City, 200 miles east. They had been arrested by our
Shoal Lake magistrate, who had refused bail. One was Cap-
tain B., a retired Indian Mutiny veteran, the other a much
younger man, Mr. J. The circumstances of their arrest were
ludicrous. A complaint had been made against them for a
mere trifle and a warrant issued, but, instead of placing the
warrant in the hands of our constables, the magistrate, who
had been on bad terms with my predecessor, employed a
young and very green settler to carry out the arrest. On
arriving at the home of the accused he spent a pleasant fore-
noon, and lunched with them at their invitation, not saying a
word about his errand until he was leaving, when he turned
at the door and said, " Oh, by the way, I have a warrant for
your arrest I " The Enghshmen laughed and refused to
beheve it, but, as the " special " insisted, B. got his rifle and
said, "J., you count one, two, three, and I shall put a buUet
through his hat ! " No sooner said than done, and the terrified
special rode for dear life to the magistrate, who, after all, had
to employ our constables. They, as a matter of course, met
with no resistance. The poor feUows were taken from their
homesteads to Qu'appelle, where they remained in the guard-
room until they knew the names, characteristics and nickname
of every officer, man and horse in the force. Judge Richardson
tried them some months later, and, taking into consideration
the delay, released them the same day.
Early in the autumn Colonel Macleod resigned the commis-
sionership of the force for the position of stipendiary magis-
trate. He was beloved by his officers and men and was a
very great loss to the service. His influence with the Indians
was enormous, with whom he was fair dealing and truth
personified. He was succeeded by Lt.-Col. Irvine, assistant
commissioner, who was also very popular with the force.
The barracks being finished, we were snug for the winter,
and, as the autumn in Canada is the finest season of the year,
the trips taken to many parts of the area over which I had
,^.;.„ ,:VV>H^U/'^
LT. -COL. JAMES FARQUHARSOX MACLEOD, C.M.G.
/;le1* i
THE CALIFORNIA STOCK SADDLE 157
supervision were very pleasant. I made many hundreds of
miles and visited every important spot. The Indians were
now settled on their reserves and preparing for a start at
farming the next spring, and the presence of the division
had materially assisted in bringing about this state of affairs.
The work of keeping the division in an efificient state meant a
great deal more than drills, patrols or treks to the reserves.
We were almost self-supporting, herded and slaughtered our
own beef, cut and hauled our hay and fuel, repaired our trans-
port, made our sleds for winter travel, etc. " B " division at
that time was the only one using the CaHfornia stock saddle ;
the rest had the universal cavalry pattern, which kept the
saddlers busy repairing them. Having had experience with
both, I alone recommended the stock saddle as best for our
purpose, being the most durable, the easiest on horseflesh and
the most comfortable, especially for winter. I had ridden mine
6,800 miles in the year 1879-80 in all weathers. It had been
used since 1875 and was still in perfect condition, never once
having to be repaired. Other saddles were recommended the
same year, but the stock saddle was selected and is still in use.
The quarters which I occupied during my stay at Qu'appelle
were not palatial. They consisted of a log house roofed with
the thatch of the country, and stood on a slope on the north
side of the valley in a pretty situation. The floor of poplar
boards sloped very much to the south, and a narrow mud fire-
'place supplied the heat. The kitchen was a lean-to at the
back of the cabin. A long narrow wing of round poplar poles
lined with rough boards, with some straw stuffed between
them and the logs, was my sleeping quarters, a box stove supply-
ing the heat. I slept well in that room in the winter nights,
in spite of the fact that the water bucket would freeze to the
bottom and the temperature was more than once 30 below zero.
Soon after the New Year an epidemic of smallpox was
threatened, and, as that disease had such dire effects amongst
the Indians of North America, prompt measures were taken
to prevent it from spreading and getting into the camps. Under
the North West Territories Ordinance a board of health was
convened. Lt.-Col. Macdonald, Mr. W. J. McLean and I were
the members. Acting Hospital Steward Holmes was the
158 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
medical health officer. He had studied medicine for many
years and was extremely capable, but as yet had no diploma.
There was, however, no qualified surgeon, and we had to do
our best. Holmes did remarkably well, visited the threatened
locahties and quarantined the houses. Orders were posted at
every important point and the forks of each trail, warning
travellers not to enter houses in the Qu'appeUe valley. Holmes,
who was usually known in the force as " Doc," vaccinated the
Indians on all the reserves, the whites who required it and all the
half-breeds in the valley. To perform these duties he had to
travel many hundreds of miles, often sleeping out in the snow,
with the thermometer indicating many degrees below zero.
When the smallpox scare was over, as he was only paid the
75 cents per diem of a constable, I recommended that he be
granted for his services to the Indians an allowance of lo
doUars per month, and, as the division was entitled to a staff-
sergeant and he was performing the duties, that he be pro-
moted to the rank of hospital steward, but both of the applica-
tions were refused. The smallpox treatment and vaccination
had been the least of his services. Hundreds of the Indians,
when they came to the district, were in an almost dying con-
dition from the experiences of the previous winter. All these
people had been attended and the disease arrested, and the
medicines compounded and administered by this useful man.
There are some instances of the miscarriage of justice for which
it is difficult to find words.
During the winter of 1880-1 I suffered for the first time in
my life from snow bhndness. I found that the first symptom
was the desire to rub one's eyes as if sand or some other irritat-
ing substance were beneath the eyehds ; the next sensation
was to see the snow a bright yellow. The pain is so severe
that the shghtest light causes agony ; a handkerchief has to
be tied over the eyes and the blinds drawn until the room is in
total darkness. I got some medicine and applied tea leaves
with no apparent effect, and was sitting wondering what
would turn up next when there was a knock at the door and
I bade the visitor enter. When he had seated himself he said,
*' Oh, sir, are you snow bhnd ? " I answered in the affirmative,
and he asked me what I was using, and, when I told him medi-
A CURE FOR SNOW BLINDNESS 159
cine from the hospital and tea leaves, he remarked, " Let me
give you an old plain-hunter's remedy. Get a pot of strong
black tea made, cover your head with a silk handkerchief, so
as to let no steam escape, and look into the kettle." I took
his advice, got instantaneous rehef and was quite well in a
couple of days.
The spring of 1881 opened early, and to prove the capabili-
ties of the soil and give the men some garden vegetables,
which up till the present had been almost impossible to obtain
at the southern posts, I had five acres of the prairie broken
and planted in potatoes, Indian com, cabbages, tomatoes
and, in fact, every vegetable in common use in Canada. All
of these came to maturity, the tomatoes ripened on the sod,
and the returns of all were astonishing. In addition to this
work I made an arrangement with a trader in the vicinity,
who had some land, to sow oats for our horses, and, as he had
no seed, I loaned him what was required from our store, on
condition that he would sell the proceeds to the government
for one doUar per bushel and return the seed. This plan
answered both parties very well, the settler getting a good
price and the force saving the trouble of freighting the oats
from the east at an advance of 70 cents per bushel ; the
settler was also assisted, and we demonstrated the suitability
of the Qu'appelle valley for farming.
One day Sitting Bull arrived at Fort Qu'appelle with about
1,200 of his tribe to have a pow-wow. He began by saying
that he expected to meet Major Walsh at Qu'appelle and that
he thought the major would obtain for him and his tribe a
reservation in Canada, as he did not care to return to the United
States. Canada was, he asserted, his country, and the Mela
Hoska (Long Knives) had no claim upon him. His friends
were the Shaga Lasha (British), and always had been ; the
revolution did not give the Mela Hoska the right to govern
him and his people.
I told him that the policy of the government was for the
Sioux to return to the United States and that it was not
at all hkely that a reservation would be given to him in Canada.
He had long ago thrown in his lot with our neighbours to the
south, had accepted a reservation in that country and must
i6o FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
return there as soon as possible and receive the benefits which
were there for him and his people when they were once more
at their agency.
On hearing what I had to say the chief was very much
disturbed and in reply reiterated that he had been given to
understand that it would not be difficult to obtain a reserve
for his people, I replied, however, that it was useless to apply
for one, but that a despatch would be sent to the Indian com-
missioner, who was at Shoal Lake, i6o odd miles east, and he
might see him. When the pow-wow was over a messenger
was sent to Mr. Dewdney, the Indian commissioner, to let him
know that Sitting Bull was with us. He came up and saw
him, and arranged to feed his band as far as Wood Mountain,
and I provided an escort to go with them and issue the rations
as required.
They departed at once, and when they reached Wood Moun-
tain the supplies were exhausted. Sitting Bull went to
Inspector A. R. Macdonnell, in command there, and demanded
more food, which was refused him. The chief threatened to
take it by force, but he was reckoning with the wrong man.
Macdonnell told him that he would ration him and his men
with bullets. The chief exclaimed, " I am thrown away ! "
•' No," said Macdonnell, " you are not thrown away ; you
are given good advice, which is that if you require food you
must return to your own reservation in the United States,
where you will be well treated." This was the last of it ; the
chief accepted the situation, and the next day accompanied
Macdonnell to Poplar River, where he handed over his rifle
to Major Brotherton, United States army, in token of sur-
render, and the remainder of the band went in with Mr. Louis
Legare, who supplied carts and food at the expense of the
American government.
This surrender ended our troubles with Sitting Bull and his
Sioux, and I may say in connection with it that not one word
appeared in the official reports of that year to say that Mac-
donnell had even seen the chief ; and an officer, who was many
hundreds of miles away, and Mr. Legare, the trader, who
certainly did not supply the Indians for love, were honourably
mentioned. The officer was one of the best fellows in the force.
THE GOVERNOR GENERAL'S TOUR i6i
and Legare a good citizen, but they had, at the actual surrender,
nothing whatever to do with inducing the Sioux to return to
their homes in the United States. This honour belongs to
Macdonnell.
In the summer I received orders to be ready to supply trans-
port for a tour through the far west, to be undertaken by the
Governor General, the Marquess of Lome, in the months of
August and September.
The party arrived at Fort Qu'appelle on August 17, early
in the afternoon, and I received the Governor General with a
guard of honour drawn up in front of the post where he was to
be entertained. Mr. W. J. McLean had met them at the
Roman Catholic mission, five miles east, where a number of
the early settlers and plain-hunters had assembled, and pre-
sented an address of welcome, to which the marquess made a
hearty reply.
A large body of Indians had been assembled from the re-
serves, and on the i8th a great pow-wow was held at the
Hudson's Bay Fort, and the Sioux Indians of Standing Buffalo's
band from Jumping Deer Creek gave a buffalo dance in honour
of the marquess. Each brave had a buffalo head and horns,
complete, as a head-dress, the appearance of the party being
very weird indeed. The remainder of the Indians, Crees,
Chippeways or Saulteaux, and Assiniboines, headed by their
chiefs, assembled inside the post, where they were received
by the Governor General and dehvered eloquent addresses
of welcome. Chief 0-Soup, a stately Indian, was the most
graceful in his deUvery, but of course the iUiterate interpreters
could not give a true idea of the expression of which the chiefs'
languages were capable.
On the 19th the marquess left for the west via the Qu'ap-
pelle, Touchwood Hills and Carlton trail. A few days after
his departure Lt.-Col. Macdonald was informed that he had
lost a ring at one of the camp grounds. An Indian was
despatched at once to visit the place on the way, and returned
in a few days with the ring, which he had found in the long
grass where the party had outspanned !
At the Red Deer River a buffalo hunt was held in honour
of the marquess. It was the last but one to be held in Canada.
i62 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
The climb at the Red Deer River furnished the party with a
good idea of the dry humour so noticeable in the force in those
days. One of the four horse teamsters had very soon learned
the names of the officers of the staff and had named his horses
after four of them. At the very high hill on the south side of
the Red Deer the staff walked up to save the teams. One of
the horses, now named " The Doctor," after Dr. Sewell,
balking and causing the other three to do Hkewise, the driver
exhorted them at the top of his voice, as he laid on the whip,
" Pull hke a boy, Bagot ! Gid ap, Chater ! Pound the Doctor 1
Lay on to him, Jones ! " and so on until the team reached the
top. The Governor General and staff were convulsed with
laughter as they watched the team until it made the summit.
Everywhere the Indians turned out in all their barbaric finery
to honour the first Governor General to visit the wild and
woolly west. The tour extended beyond the hmits of the
Dominion, the party going to Fort Shaw, Montana, and thence,
with an escort of United States troops, to Helena. From
there they returned to Winnipeg by rail.
The distance travelled by the marquess and party to Fort
Shaw was 1,229 rnil^s, and my horses, before they got back
to Fort Qu'appelle, had treked 1,500 miles. The same year
between March and August they had made on other duties a
total of 1,434 miles !
The Governor General, before leaving Fort Shaw, made a
short address to the escort, in which he referred to the variety
of the work of the North West Moimted Police. He said :
" Your work is not only that of military men, but you are called
upon to perform the important and responsible duties which
devolve upon you in your civil capacities. Your officers, in
their capacity of magistrates, are called upon to perform even
that of diplomacy."
CHAPTER X
Settlers in the west — The land boom — ^The prodigal son — Recruiting
for the force — The construction of the C.P.R. — Regina — " The
Pile of Bones "^ — A game of poker — A speedy trail — ^The farm
Colonies — An amateur rancher. — A clever rusC' — ^Work on the
G.P.R.' — An unsatisfactory N.C.O.. — Calgary — Misguided enthusi-
asm— Trouble with the Blackfeet — General Strange 's ranch —
Prohibition^ — Ingenious devices^ — A brutal murder^ — Clues— No
lynching in Canada' — Indian unrest — I am appointed to British
Columbia' — A prisoner escapes — I am sent to re-arrest him —
Crowfoot — Indian hostility — A ticklish position — Firmness suc-
ceeds— An amazing acquittal — New Calgary.
DURING the winter of 1881-2 we were kept constantly
on the prairie in every direction. The white settlers
who were coming into the country knew nothing of
the dangers of travel in the wilderness, and would
venture out in a garb that was no protection. Many of
them thought they knew more than Indians, plain-hunters,
Hudson's Bay officials or the Mounted Pohce, and would
take no advice ; bitter experience had to be their teacher.
Fortunately, the majority were different and were glad to
accept assistance.
Many speculators looking for town sites invaded the country.
Their route was from Winnipeg via Fort ElUce and along the
Qu'appelle valley. While they had the shelter of the poplars
they were all right, but when they struck out from it they
suffered much. One party, with a well-known gentleman at
their head, estabhshed themselves on the surveyed C.P.R. hne,
18 miles south of the fort, and, taking up homesteads round
a common centre, called the place Troy. It is now Qu'appelle.
Others went further east, and many were looking for town
sites near the elbow of the South Saskatchewan, a long distance
west, near the source of the Qu'appelle. Large numbers of
people from the eastern provinces of Canada, inspired by the
reports of the Governor General's trip, a fuU account of which
163
i64 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
had been published in the eastern papers, had hurried to
Winnipeg and started a land boom, which lasted for several
months.
In February I obtained leave on private affairs, and started
east for Ontario soon afterwards. At Brandon I saw a loco-
motive for the first time in nine years. I went on as far as
Portage la Prairie, 60 miles west of Winnipeg, and found the
boom going on there, and I met some men whom I had induced
to settle in that fertile region. They were delighted with
their success. None had farmed more than 50 acres in Ontario,
and now, with their sons on homesteads and their daughters
well settled, they, as they said to me, did not have to work.
They farmed between them and their sons nearly 2,000 acres
each, but did not dignify with the name of work the task of
walking round their farms. Nothing was work to them but
the severest kind of manual labour.
In Winnipeg lots were selling at, for that time, fabulous
prices, and any quarter section in Manitoba, if subdivided into
town lots, would realize a handsome fortune for the owner.
People were ready to buy anything. The hotels did a roaring
trade and the bars made profits of hundreds of dollars a day.
Every available space was taken up for sleeping accommoda-
tion and the privilege of having a chair or a step on the stairs
to sleep on during the night cost a dollar. In the forenoon
the speculators were at their writing-tables going through
their correspondence ; the city was quiet, though crowded
with men. At noon there was the usual hearty luncheon ;
at 3 p.m. the fun began, and was kept up until a late hour.
Those who had made money were ready to re-invest it, and
the real estate offices were crowded with men ready to buy or
sell lots.
I took rooms at the Grand Union Hotel and the next day
received orders from Ottawa to start a recruiting office. Most
of the men who presented themselves were not of the right
stuff. I got a few good ones, but I would take none but the
best. Towards the end of the winter Inspector Perry, just
appointed to the force, came up to relieve me so that I could
proceed east.
At Ottawa I was informed that my leave would be very short
FINE FELLOWS 165
owing to the construction of the C.P.R. through the territory
and the illness of an officer who was recruiting 200 men in
Toronto, as a result of which I might have to take the men
west. As things were looking brighter with the sick officer,
I went to North Simcoe for a couple of weeks and stayed
with my numerous relatives in that part of the country, all
of whom treated me as if I had been the prodigal son !
When I returned to Ottawa 13 recruits were enhsted, and
I took passage for myself and them by boat from Sarnia to
Duluth, Minnesota. My recruits were fine, handsome young
men, and were soon great favourites with all on board. The
other passengers, not knowing much about the Mounted Police,
were surprised that such well-educated men would enhst, and
I had to inform them that no other class would be engaged ;
such men had been the making of the force and had done much
to popularize the service. The party which I had with me had
come from the old country and the maritime provinces on
purpose to join. Two of them were ex-Life Guardsmen, one
was a captain of the Irish militia, whose rank the others never
lost sight of, the remainder were college men, and none were
under six feet in height.
When I arrived back at Fort Qu'appelle I was appointed
acting adjutant of the district and placed in command of the
detachments on the line of construction of the C.P.R. , and I
performed those duties until the railway work ceased for the
season. While the summer lasted many visitors came to the
valley and settlers began to follow the line, merchants had
stores in canvas tents at every new siding, and towns " moved
on" until permanent locations such as Regina, Moose Jaw,
Swift Current and Maple Creek were found.
While the work was going on the suppression of crime was
difficult, but it was successfully accomphshed, the force saving
the contractors hundreds of thousands of dollars owing to the
absence of saloons and the prohibition of intoxicants. There
was much smuggling but the sale was kept within bounds and
the navvies could not at any time get enough for a spree.
The illicit liquor smugglers and gamblers were given the " full
benefit of the law."
In August the Canadian Press Association, in an immense
i66 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
special train, visited the North West Territory and proceeded
to the end of the track, which had by that time reached a point
10 miles west of Regina, then merely a canvas town on a bare
plain. The party were accompanied by their wives, sons and
daughters, and by others interested in the progress of the
country. Their visit gave Major Walsh an opportunity to
welcome them to the west in the spirited manner peculiar to
him.
He paraded a strong troop and, as there was not much time
to spare, took us at a fast pace the i8 miles to the siding,
which is now the pretty town of Qu'appelle, and concealed us
in the woods near the line. When the heavily loaded train
came puffing up the grade to the siding we broke cover, the
major at our head, and galloped alongside and round it, saluted
by the shrieks of the engine, the cheers of the men on board,
and the waving of the ladies' handkerchiefs. The train stopped
for a few minutes to take water, and the major went on with
the party to the last siding west of Regina, which was named
Pense, after the president of the Press Association who was on
the train.
At Regina the new capital frame houses were already taking
the place of the canvas tents. When we arrived there we en-
camped on the homestead of Mr. George Moffat, on which it
was afterwards decided that the headquarters of the N.W.M.P.
were to be, and are still. None of the officers liked the site.
I suggested another to the comptroller and drove him over to
inspect it, but it was a good thing for Saskatchewan and the
city that it was not chosen, for it is now occupied by the
imposing pubhc buildings of that province, and has the pretty
artificial lake where I thought we could have a dam for the
water supply, there being nothing but the creek, then known
as " The Pile of Bones," to depend upon for the coming winter.
The Lieutenant Governor had made up his mind, however,
and he decided upon the present location, for which the good
citizens of Regina owe him thanks, as well as for the place
being chosen as the capital.
On September 13, a short time after the site was chosen,
I was sent to Regina to lay out the ground for the portable
buildings which were to be our home for a long time to come.
SECRET GAMBLING 167
I was to perform all of the magistrate's work and remain in
charge of the detachments along the railway as far as Swift
Current.
For police protection I placed a strong detachment in the
town and, making the men as comfortable as possible, went on
with the work of laying out the site and carrying on the rest.
There were many loose characters in Regina and the new
towns east and west, who had settled down for the winter
to make those places lively, and they soon got a taste of our
methods of handling such people. Neither the men nor I
had a spare moment to ourselves, the former were on the move,
coming and going, all the time, and I was on the bench trying
cases until far into the night, my court-room being a 16 by 14
marquee, which was also mess-room and sleeping apartment.
We often had visitors during the autumn. Many of them
would say, " What a pity the creek is called ' Pile of Bones,'
not a pretty name, is it ? " To this remark I always repUed,
" Wascana is the Sioux name for Pile of Bones, it means the
same thing." Of the correctness of the translation I was satis-
fied, and, as Major Walsh had given the Sioux names of Wapella
and Sintaluta to stations further east, I thought it would be
a good thing to give one to Pile of Bones, and it is thus that
it became Wascana.
There was much secret gambhng in Regina, and it was a
common thing for half a dozen of the gamblers to be brought
before me, but one of these cases had a more amusing side
to it than any other that it had been my experience to try.
Corporal Stewart, a bright young Trinity College student,
who had come to the Mounted Police through the cavalry,
was in charge of the town station, and had to keep a sharp
lookout on the poker games. The senior partner of the con-
struction company building the C.P.R. had an intense objection
to gambling. He had two nephews, brothers, the older,
careful and staid, was the paymaster, the younger and liveUer
was his quartermaster ; he was fond of a game of poker when-
ever he could indulge in it. They were in Regina on business
one dark, wet night, and were to join their uncle on his train
west-bound, which was hourly expected. The same evening
I was busy writing in my tent near midnight when the younger
i68 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
nephew burst headlong through the door, followed closely
by Corporal Stewart, shouting, " For God's sake, Cap, how
much is it ? The corporal has just caught me in a poker game
and has the pot. Do try me now 1 The old man is on the
train, and is expected every minute, and if I miss it he will
know what has happened, and I shall lose my job. Do try me.
Cap ! " By this time the elder brother had entered in a more
orderly manner, and with the corporal was standing behind
while the younger brother deHvered himself of this harangue.
When he had finished, the elder said, " I wish you would try
him, sir. His uncle will be very angry with him if he hears
of this gambling scrape. The amount of the fine matters
httle, and I should be grateful if you would try him in time
to catch his train." These requests had their effect and, when
the corporal had laid the charge and sworn to it and the prisoner
pleaded guilty, I inflicted the usual fine, which was promptly
paid, confiscated " the pot," and the brothers, thanking
me for my generosity, made their " best Hcks " to the station
in time to catch the train and escape their uncle's wrath.
This episode has been the subject of a magazine article,
which states that I was aroused out of bed to try the case.
A Mounted Police officer roused out of bed at midnight I He
might be at 4 a.m., but until the small hours were well on
he would be, as I was that night, booted and spurred, ready
for the trail. The whole case did not take above ten minutes.
The young man often said to me afterwards when he met me,
" By Jove, Cap, you did me a good turn then 1 "
Late in the autumn Regina became the headquarters of
the Mounted PoUce, but the officers had no mess nor quarters
until near Christmas, and the water froze in our bath tubs
during the nights. The little dam on the Wascana creek
soon gave out and we had to melt snow for men and horses,
everyone, no doubt, wondering why such a change was made
before we had a permanent water supply. We were accus-
tomed to hardship, however. The winter was very severe,
and the officers and men employed in clerical work used to
put their ink bottles on the top of the stoves to keep the ink
from freezing. Bhzzards were very regular in their appearance,
and, when duty or pleasure took us to the town or to some
FARM COLONIES 169
neighbour's cabin, we had to be careful lest we should go astray
and be on the prairie all night. The whistle of the locomotive
at the little station was a very welcome sound on some of
those stormy nights.
For a new place there was a good deal of fun going on in
Regina. After Christmas the Lieutenant Governor and Mrs.
Dewdney entertained a good deal, and parties of civilian
friends were with us at balls and parties, and the Regina Leader,
edited by the brilliant Nicholas Flood Davin, indulged in
jokes at our expense. Until March I was the only officer hear-
ing cases, and was kept fairly busy, but about the end of the
month I was sent to Winnipeg on recruiting service, I took
rooms at the Potter House, then the best hotel in the town,
which was full of surveyors and engineers, amongst them the
gigantic General Rosser, chief engineer of the C.P.R., who was
very interesting to all of us younger men, having been a dis-
tinguished cavalry commander during the Civil War in the
United States. He was a splendid type of southern gentleman,
and was some years later Minister for the United States to
Austria-Hungary. Mr. Rodgers, the engineer who had been
selected to look for a pass through the Selkirk range of the
Rocky Mountains, was there too, and received the necessary
information from Walter Moberly, the true discoverer of the
pass, who had been exploring in that part of British Columbia
in 187 I.
Towards spring I met several English travellers, one of them
a retired surgeon-major in the British army, who had been
visiting one of his nephews, a pupil in a United States farm
colony. He gave me an interesting account of the doings of
the colonists, who with their polo and horse-racing, which
intermingled with their pretended farming, nearly drove the
matter-of-fact American farmers in the vicinity to insanity.
The pranks of some of those lads were extraordinary, at least
the old gentleman thought so. He mentioned his nephew as
having gone to a neighbouring town to sell a load of wheat
hauled there by a fine span of mules. The youngster did
not return for a week, and then calmly accosted the manager
with the remark, " I sold the wheat." " Yes," said the
manager. " I got per bushel." " That's a good price,"
170 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
replied the manager. " I sold the mules and wagons for
dollars." " Ah, that was a good bargain I" "I spent the
money I " " That's all right, I'll charge it up to the old
gentleman ! " meaning this remarkable youth's father in
England.. That this story is true I can vouch, and I have
known many quite as strange to happen in the west.
The system so common at that time of sending young
men from the old country to learn farming was very absurd.
Their instructors, although paid to teach, did not care whether
they worked or not ; if they preferred to hang round the
neighbouring villages, it mattered nothing to them ; they were
paid for the lads' board and lodging, and that, with the occa-
sional hour in the rush of seed time and harvest, more than
compensated them. It was also a mistake to send them
out without any experience to start farm or ranch hfe on the
prairies. <
An amusing case came under my observation. A well-known,
in fact famous, professional man sent his son out west with a
good allowance and sufficient capital to make a good start
in cattle-ranching. He wisely hired a practical stockman, who
built his comfortable log house and commodious corrals on the
banks of a pretty stream, while he enjoyed himself in a neigh-
bouring town, assisted in spending his allowance by a number
of yoimg fellows " from home." To encourage his parents
he sent glowing accounts to them of the success of the cattle
venture, and this was so pleasant to hear that the following
summer they decided to visit the young hopeful at his ranch
in the west. This decision filled the embryo rancher with
consternation. He had no cattle yet, and as he had reported
many, what was he to do ? He was soon shown the way ;
he had not yet learned the resourcefulness of the cow puncher,
who had graduated in the Mounted Police and obtained the
rank of corporal, a position not attained in those days without
evidence of a rather remarkable inteUigence I
The father and mother arrived and took up their quarters at
the ranch, which was in sight of the snow-capped Rockies. The
next day they were conducted round the corrals in which were
a large number of fine cattle. It is true that they were of
different brands but, as those marks of identification are not in
AN ENTERPRISING YOUTH 171
vogue in the old land, nothing was suspected or noticed. The
old gentleman was so pleased with the apparent success of the
cattle venture that he increased the allowance of his enter-
prising son and invited him home for a Christmas visit. This
he accepted with alacrity, and, as he now possessed the
intimate knowledge of his manager's power of initiative, he
made an arrangement by which he was apprised during his stay
with his parents that the winter in the west had proved to be
so severe that the cattle had died of the cold. This settled
ranching for him in Canada, an orange grove came next !
I enHsted many good men in Winnipeg and sent them on to
Regina as fast as they were sworn in. One apphcant was a
splendidly-built man whom I had to refuse on account of his
great height. He stood six feet nine inches in his stockings
and was well proportioned, and his travels had led him from
England to South America, where he had been employed as a
civil engineer. He had first-class testimonials, but he remarked
that his great height was a nuisance to him no matter where he
went, for people stared at him as he walked the streets and gave
him no end of annoyance. On hearing his story I was very
sorry that I could not take him, but arranged to do weU for him
by getting employment for him on the staff of a survey party
under a friend of mine. He did excellent work, and the next
time I met him he was on his way to England to take possession
of a large fortune to which he had fallen heir.
Shortly after this a strike was threatened at Maple Creek on
the hne of construction, 600 miles west of Winnipeg, and I was
ordered to proceed there with all of the available trained men in
Regina, while Griesbach took my place on the recruiting station
at Winnipeg. The strike ended in a satisfactory way for both
parties, and then I was kept busy at magisterial duties, which
necessitated travelling along the railway from Medicine Hat^
1 The name is a translation of the Blackfoot word " Saamis," given on
account of a vision that came to an Indian chief there. Of this there
are various versions, but one thing is said to be certain, the chief,
whether waking or sleeping, said that he saw an Indian rise out of the
Saskatchewan wearing the plumed hat or head-dress of a Medicine Man
Medicine has nothing to do with drugs. It is a charm, a fetish, magic,
mystic power, hence the expression, " His medicine is strong," " He is
bad medicine," or " It is good medicine." Often in the old days one
would hear an Indian droning a weird song, and if one asked what he
172 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
to Moose Jaw, and although the work was constant I had not a
bad time. I got very well acquainted with the officers of the
C.P.R., the train men and other employees, all of whom were
very good and most obliging. I took my meals at the section
houses or in the cabooses, and slept in the latter or on the
prairie. The court-houses were of a primitive character ; on
several occasions in what is now the prosperous town of Swift
Current I tried cases while seated on a Red River cart, with a
plank stretched across for the bench, the evidence being taken
down on the flap of my despatch bag !
The railway construction of the year 1883 had commenced at
Medicine Hat and was under the management of Mr. James
Ross, a Highland Scotch engineer. Mr. Donald Grant, a gigantic
Canadian Highlander from Glengarry, was in charge of the
tracklayers. One always knew how many miles of steel he
laid every day by the number of trains which passed to " the end
of track." Each of them contained the rails, ties and other
materials for one mile of line and there were never less than four
passing up every day, and once Mr. Grant beat all previous
records by laying eight miles of line between sunrise and sunset.
Some years afterwards he beat his remarkable feat by laying
ten miles on another railway.
The stations along the C.P.R. from Moose Jaw west were as a
rule named after the important persons who travelled on
excursion trains to see the line. On one occasion Mr. (now Sir
Wilham) van Home passed up with a train, and, to demon-
strate how practical they were, the general superintendent
took the lever and Major Walsh worked the brakes, then the
old-fashioned kind ; the air brakes, however, had been placed
on most trains at that date.
There were new Mounted Police barracks under construction
at many points, and Maple Creek, which had taken the place of
Fort Walsh, was often visited by the commissioner. Early in
June I was at Maple Creek for a few days and saw Big Bear's
band going north. They were going to their reserve at Frog
was doing, those who knew would say, " He is making medicine."
As already described in a previous chapter the Medicine Men of the
tribes initiated the young braves in the Medicine Lodge of the Sun
Dance.
MAGISTRATES AT VARIANCE 173
Lake and were a bad bunch, " bad medicine " as it were, and
should never have been left without at least 100 well-armed and
mounted men near them. It would have been useless, however,
to ask for this ; it required an Indian rising to open the eyes
of the pubhc to such a necessity. The force from the beginning
had been kept short-handed for the work to be done ; 500 more
men would have saved miUions.
I had not been very long back at Medicine Hat when our
commissioner arrived on one of his tours and produced a
telegram from the Prime Minister, Sir John Macdonald, to the
effect that I was to be sent with a strong party of picked men to
Rat Portage,^ now Kenora, where there was trouble between
the magistrates of Manitoba and Ontario. The territory was
disputed, each province claiming it, and their magistrates
were busy attempting to arrest one another instead of taking
a sensible view of the situation until the Privy Council should
decide the case which was before them.
I took no horses, as all our work would be done on foot, and
at Regina was given as N.C.O. a smart-looking young man
whom I had rejected at Winnipeg a few years before because
he could not produce his parchment discharge papers from the
Royal Horse Guards ; he had proceeded to Regina and, after
interviewing a young man who knew his history, joined the
force and was promoted to corporal in a few days, over the
heads, one might say, of more than a hundred well-educated
and experienced men. He had alleged to me that he had
belonged to the Blues, but had nothing to show for it but a
private letter from someone who signed himself as adjutant.
He was very well-proportioned and handsome, but not more
so than the men over whom he had stepped, and it was
fortunate indeed that it did not matter with such men
whether I had a N.C.O. or not.
When I arrived in Winnipeg I was met by the Attorney-
General, an old friend of mine, and when he saw the smart,
athletic men that I had with me he winked and said, " They
will do, Steele 1 " I was ordered to put my men in barracks at
^ The name Rat Portage is no more, divided interests brought about
a change into a composite word made up of a syllable from each of the
three small towns at the head of the Winnipeg.
174 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Fort Osborne, and a few days later Mr. Fred White informed
me that as the trouble seemed to have blown over at Rat
Portage I need not take the party there unless there were a
recurrence of it ; the ordering of the detachment to Winnipeg
seemed to have had a deterrent effect. After making my men
comfortable in barracks I started a recruiting office and did
very well, large numbers of good men coming forward, attracted
by the smart bearing, gay uniforms and pleasant manners
of my party.
I had not been in Winnipeg a month when the mistake of
appointing the N.C.O. was discovered. He deserted one
night, leaving some new found friends " in a hole" to the
extent of many hundred dollars and taking away his kit. In
his place a very fine and experienced N.C.O. was sent to me,
after which all went well. A few days later I met in town a
young man of my acquaintance whom I had first met near
Swift Current. ^' So the bird has flown ! " he remarked. " He
came to see me before he joined the force and asked me to say
nothing about his past history as he wished to join the Mounted
Police and, although he had been refused admission when he
apphed, he was going to try again." My young friend and he
had served in the Blues and they were in Australia together ;
the first had bought his discharge and was out there when the
other appeared, after deserting from his corps, and joined the
Australian Police, but had not been long in them when he
deserted, sold his horse and kit and was arrested, fined and
imprisoned. The other was a very good fellow who had com-
mitted the grave offence of enlisting in the army. When he
had finished sowing his small stock of wild oats he returned
home to Ireland, where his father was a wealthy barrister, in
hopes that he would, like the prodigal, be forgiven. In this
he was mistaken, however, for no sooner did he show his face
than his father asked him why he had returned, to which he
retorted, " I have just come to see what time it is by the town
clock, and I thought I would call in." He has since made good
in Canada, and is a welcome guest in every home in his city.
In November I went to Calgary to take temporary command
of the district. I found Lt.-Col. Irvine and one of his staff
officers there investigating a somewhat humorous incident.
EARLY DAYS IN CALGARY 175
Several yomig constables of very short service, who had frus-
trated the efforts of their comrades to bring to justice some
gamblers and toughs, had been given a barrack-room court-
martial and, for their lack of esprit de corps, were ducked in
the Bow, which was full of floating ice at the time, the ther-
mometer indicating fifteen degrees below zero. The victims
complained to the CO., who, after carefully investigating the
matter, sentenced the ducked to a term of imprisonment and a
heavy fine. Their assailants he placed under arrest for taking
the law into their own hands, and telegraphed for the com-
missioner to investigate the charge against them, which he did
on the night after I arrived. As he understood that the
ducking was only a misguided display of esprit de corps, he
dismissed the cases with a caution.
Calgary at this time was a cluster of portable huts and
frame houses on the east side of the Elbow River ; where the
centre of the city now is, was not then occupied. Some squat-
ters were in possession of it, and these had been bought out by
some others, and although the section was odd numbered (15)
and imder ordinary circumstances would belong to the C.P.R.,
in this case it did not, at least until their claims went before
the courts. The ground was just the same as I saw it in 1878.
The Mounted Police barracks were improved a great deal, it is
true, and there were a few small frame shops, the Roman
Catholic and Methodist mission buildings and a few log cabins
of the freighters. The Hudson Bay store still flourished on
the east side of the Elbow, and there were also two hotels and
two small churches. The Church of England had not yet
built a place of worship ; they used our orderly-room on
Sunday, and the Rev. (now Archdeacon) Tims used to come
up from the mission amongst the Blackfeet and hold services
there.
Two days after I took command at Calgary I assigned the
magistrate's court to Inspector Dowling, the only officer in the
district to assist me, although it covered an area of at least
150 miles square. In addition to this duty he was clerk of
the District Court, presided over by Colonel Macleod, the
stipendiary magistrate, who had the powers of a Supreme
Court judge when associated with a justice of the peace.
176 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
When the navvies left for the winter things were fairly quiet
as far as the railway was concerned, but there was trouble
coming up in another quarter, viz., amongst the Indians and
half-breeds along the Saskatchewan ; and the Blackfeet, no
doubt a fine lot of wild Indians, but unfortunately in some
directions looked upon as mild innocents, were giving much
annoyance to the stockmen in the cattle country. For this
crime there was no excuse ; they were fairly well fed, and the
reserves were administered by agents who gave them all to
which they were entitled.
Early in the winter there were complaints of the Blackfeet
killing stock. Small parties of the worst of them would leave
the reserve and, secreting themselves in some nook in the
vicinity of wood and water, would make stealthy raids on the
cattle, and until found and arrested would subsist thus, never
taking the trouble to draw their legitimate rations at the
agency. When the complaints were made I sent out parties,
and the thieves were hunted down and brought to justice.
On several occasions General Strange's military colonization
ranch suffered loss on account of these marauders. I would
go with a strong party, remain at his ranch until near dawn, and
then surround Old Sun's camp and capture the thieves before
they could take to the woods and prairies. This work was
excellent scouting practice for the men, who had learned to
take those alert people by surprise, or to get on their trail and
track them to their haunts.
On one occasion after these arrests, the agent, at my request,
sent for the chief and headmen, and the general and I addressed
them, urging them to keep their people honest. These har-
angues no doubt had a good effect, but a nocturnal visit from
the red-coats did much more.
The same old law for the suppression of intoxicating liquor
was in force, and proved excellent for the purpose of preserving
peace on the railway construction and keeping the Indians
from deterioration, but it should not have been forced upon
the rest of the community against the will of the majority.
It was intended for the prevention of the Indian trade, and our
powers under it were so great that we could enter or search any
place at any hour of the day or night. The officers and men
A BRUTAL MURDER 177
hated this detestable duty, which gave them much trouble
and gleams of unpopularity. We soon learned that compulsion
will not make people sober ; it must be brought about by the
example of the best people. The prohibitory law made more
drunkards than if there had been an open bar and free drinks
at every street corner. Liquor was brought into the territories
by every conceivable trick. Egg shells were emptied of their
contents and alcohol substituted ; tin imitations of the Holy
Bible were filled with intoxicants and sold on the trains ;
metal kegs filled with alcohol came concealed in the centre of
barrels of kerosene, and mince-meat soaked in brandy and
peaches prepared in the same manner were common.
We had one brutal murder during the winter. The victim,
a fine young fellow, had a store near us, and he was a regular
attendant at the Presbyterian church east of the Elbow, and
used to see to the lighting of the fires on Sunday and Wednesday
evenings. On one of the latter a young man named Francis
came to me in a great state of excitement, saying that he
had been at the store and found the poor man lying near the
desk with his throat cut from ear to ear and the whole place
bespattered with blood. I learned from Francis that on that
same evening the coloured cook of a neighbouring restaurant
had been in the store and disputed in a hostile manner an
account which had been rendered to him by the proprietor ;
he had even gone behind the counter to give vent to his threats.
On learning this I turned out several parties, mounted and
assisted by numerous civihans. They scoured the country
until, about midnight, Mr. James Christie, an ex-member of
the force, arrested the negro near some Indian lodges about
a mile from the barracks, and he was placed in the guard-room,
where Kennedy and I went at once and caused him to be
examined. We found blood on his right finger nail, but there
was very httle of it, and a dark oblong stain in his right trousers
pocket. We noticed that the right leg of his trousers, being lower
than the other, was frozen at the bottom from being in contact
with the snow after being wet. The man had overshoes only,
without boots, and his stockings were very damp.
The snow round the store, in front and on all sides, as there
was no fence, had been trampled over until it would appear
178 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
impossible to find a trace of any footprints, but at the front
window of the store, so close that they could not be obscured
by other marks, the tracks of the toes of the overshoes were
very distinct, as if the wearer had got as close to the window
as possible to see if his victim had returned. From these,
in spite of the numerous tracks, the marks were followed for
an hour with the greatest care to where they were found
distinctly on the right-hand side of the store, where the negro
had stood and taken off his overshoes. He had then gone
round to the back door in his stockinged feet. These tracks
were discerned as far as the inside of the store. There were
blood stains on the desk and ledger, blood on the till, and a
small twenty-five cent note, called a " shin plaster," was found
on the floor. The stockinged feet were with difficulty traced
back from the door to where the shoes had been left ; the shoes
had been put on again, and the tracks were followed to the
trail, the large number of footprints giving much trouble, and
at last were traced through deep snow to a hay stack.
The hay stack had been disturbed, as if a hand had been
thrust into it, and a search revealed twenty odd dollars in notes
which had been held crushed in a bloody hand and pushed
into the hay. The tracks were followed back to the trail and
along a path through a snowfall, which showed behind the
heel of the right foot a semicircle made on the snow by the
frozen bottom of the trousers. There were several of these
marks, and further on, where the negro had halted for a second
or two, a small mark was noticed in the snow, about 30 yards
from the trail, as if some article had been thrown into it.
We found a razor in its case. The edges of the blade were
jagged, as if it had come in contact with bone or some other
hard substance ; both razor and case were bloody. Proceeding
further the tracks led to an Indian lodge, and from there to
where the negro stood when he was arrested the night before,
and thence to the guard-room.
The accused was taken out of the cells and led through
some snow, and it was seen that the bottom edge of his trousers
made the same sort of mark which had been perceived by the
trackers. It was fortunate that the tracking was commenced
at daylight, for early in the afternoon, soon after it was finished.
THREATS OF LYNCHING 179
a Chinook came and took oft every particle of snow, and no
trace was left. The following day Dowling committed the
negro for trial, and Colonel Macleod arrived from Fort Macleod
next day. I was invited to sit with him at the trial and, as the
prisoner had no counsel, Mr. James A. Lougheed, now a senator
for the Dominion, was directed to act for him. A strong
defence was made, but the evidence was too clear. The jury
found the prisoner guilty without leaving the box, and before
sentence was delivered by Colonel Macleod he confessed his
guilt.
Some weeks later the sentence of the court was carried out,
the prisoner marching to the scaffold with a jaunty, military
step, keeping time with the escort, and on the scaffold he
faced the witnesses to the execution, and stated that drink
was the cause of the crime. Dr. Kennedy and I were the
official witnesses, and I relate these circumstances for the
reason that this was the first execution in the North West
Territories of any person other than an Indian, and it was
carried out in the barrack square of the Mounted Police.
The murder caused a great deal of excitement, and when
it was reported a large mob of citizens, headed by a very decent
but excited individual, came to find out what I was going to
do about it, and there were threats of lynching the perpetrator
if captured. But I said to him, " You lads are all tenderfeet,
and have visions before you of taking part in a Neck-tie Social.
There never has been a lynching in Canada, nor will there
be as long as our force has the pohce duties to perform, so go
away like sensible men, and remember that any attempt
at lynching will be bad for those who try it ! " This settled
the matter, and from that date he was one of the best friends
of the force, always taking a leading part on our behalf. On
the night of the execution I was returning to my quarters
from the orderly-room, and as I approached the door one
of my friends was standing in the passage, and stood gazing
over my head, with a look of horror and superstitious dread
on his face. I said, " What's the matter ? " and he gasped,
** Thank Heaven, it's you I I thought it was the negro I '*
During the spring of 1884 I got proof that there was trouble
before us in the North West Territory. It came about in this
i8o FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
way. My orderly-room sergeant, who understood Cree and
spoke Blackfeet, was on leave for a week-end at High River^
and on his return reported that he had seen a French half-breed
there talking with some Blackfeet Indians, with whom he
seemed to be on very friendly terms, and saying that he had
come from the Judith Basin in Montana with Louis Riel,
and that the Indians had a right to kill the settlers' cattle
if they chose, and that the country belonged to the Indians,
and that the whites should be turned out. He had said much
more, in an undertone, which the sergeant could not catch,
but there was sufficient for me, and I caused information to be
laid against the half-breed, charging him with vagrancy, and
when he appeared in court he admitted that he had come over
with Riel and that he had suggested that the Blackfeet had
a right to kill cattle. The magistrates sentenced him to one
month's imprisonment, and cautioned him that any further
misconduct would be more severely dealt with.
There was nothing heard of the Cree half-breed for some time,
and in April I received orders to hand over the district to
Colonel Herchmer and select from the division a strong party
with me to go to British Columbia, where I was to have sole
charge of the Mounted Police on the line of construction of the
C.P.R. through the Rocky Mountains to where the last spike
would be driven. I had been appointed a commissioner
of police under the Police of Canada Act and a commissioner
of the peace under the Act for the Preservation of Peace on
Public Works.
The whole division volunteered to a man and, to avoid the
dilemma, I selected the best shots with rifle and revolver.
The construction on the mountains began early in April, and
Mr. James Ross returned to the west and made his headquarters
at Laggan, near the summit of the Bow River Pass, where
the end of the track was situated and there was a vast accumu-
lation of material. As soon as the work was well under way
I went to Laggan with a number of the men and posted them
where they were most needed ; it was evident from what I
saw that they had a hard year's work before them. Large
numbers of gamblers, whisky men, in fact almost every
description of criminal, who had been plying their trade on
THE BLACKFEET HOSTILE i8l
the Northern Pacific Railway, were wending their way from
Sand Point and estabhshing their dens on every httle creek
along the hne.
The force had to find escorts for the paymaster of the com-
pany on his tour to the end of the track to pay the men.
Directions were given to use every precaution on all such trips,
men were to be sent on in advance to examine any place
where a hold-up might be concealed. Two were to be with
the paymaster, near the pack ponies with the money, and two
more were to be in front and two in rear of it at a safe distance,
the whole party arranged so that all could not come under
fire at the same time. The N.C.O. was to stay with the
paymaster and keep a sharp look-out ; I also gave orders
that every man of the tough element was to be under sur-
veillance and his antecedents ascertained.
On my return to Calgary I was holding myself in readiness
to depart as soon as I had handed over the district, when
Mr. Magnus Begg, Indian agent of the Blackfeet, came to
Calgary and reported that the former friendly demeanour of
the tribe had changed to one of sulkiness and hostihty, and
that he was feeling very anxious. I asked him if he had any
reason to assign for their altered behaviour, and he rephed
that a stout half-breed of about thirty years of age was in the
camp with Crowfoot, and that ever since his arrival the chiefs
and tribe had become sulky. This convinced me that the
half-breed was the one from the Judith Basin, who had come
over with Riel, and that he was the cause of the change in the
behaviour of the Indians, but although I had no great faith
in Crowfoot, I could not quite understand his sudden change
towards Begg, who had been very kind to him.
There was nothing for it, however, but again to arrest the
half-breed, and, as the Blackfeet were holding their Sun Dance,
I sent Sergeant Dann and a constable to Gleichen, a station
near the camp, to wait there until Begg got a friendly Indian
to decoy the half-breed to the station. They arrived soon
after dawn, and the half-breed was arrested and held until
the train from the east would arrive next morning. In the
meantime Lt.-Col. Irvine and Supt. Herchmer arrived for
the handing over of the district. Next morning Dann and
i82 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
the constable were bringing their prisoner to Calgary on the
morning train, which was making about 30 miles per hour.
They were in the mail car with their prisoner handcuffed,
and the sergeant was brushing his clothes when the half-breed
sprang to his feet, slipped his handcuffs, which were too large,
seized Dann's rifle and jumped from the train. Dann and the
constable followed, but the former put his knee out of joint,
and the half-breed ran at top speed for Crowfoot's camp,
or at least in that direction. The constable endeavoured to
follow, but his long boots were a handicap when chasing the
moccasined half-breed, and he had to turn back.
The train was stopped to pick up Dann and the constable,
who, when they arrived in Calgary, reported what had occurred,
and I informed Supt. Herchmer and Lt.-Col. Irvine, and was
asked by them as a special case to take to the prairie and
arrest the half-breed. Herchmer expressed great anxiety
to have the arrest made, and seemed to think the behaviour
of the Indians serious and the presence of the half-breed in the
camp as the cause of the unrest and a bad sign.
I left with two men, one driving a buckboard ; these were
constables Walters and Kerr, as I thought it was important
to make as little display of force as possible. We scouted east
for nearly 40 miles until dark, and then turned into General
Strange's ranch, where we were received with the usual hospi-
taUty. We waited there until i a.m., and then rode to Old
Sun's camp, which I found clear of all adults except John
L'Hereux, interpreter for the agency, and the Indian who
had decoyed the half-breed to Gleichen. There were a lot of
hvely Indian boys in camp, who, with the usual cheerfulness
of their kind, found L'Hereux and the Indians for me.
The interpreter was a man of great experience and equally
great timidity. He had lived in the Blackfoot camp for many
years, often sharing Crowfoot's lodge, and advising him when
any question came up between him and the whites, and seemed
to be much in his confidence during the treaty of 1877 at the
Blackfoot Crossing. When I told him that he must come
with me to get the half-breed at Crowfoot's Sun Dance camp,
he showed palpable signs of fear, and I am convinced that he
knew what was the matter. I told him that there was no cause
A DIFFICULT ARREST 183
for alarm, that Crowfoot and I were good friends, and we were
not going to fight, but to make an ordinary arrest. Then,
accompanied by him and the Indian, I went with my party
to the outskirts of the Sun Dance camp, which was near the
Peigan Sand Hills,
It rained in torrents all the time we were there, a fact which
I welcomed, as we did a bUzzard in winter when on the same
sort of errand, for under the circumstances the Indians would
not be stirring or wandering about the precincts of the camp
as they would in fine weather. As soon as dawn was clear,
the friendly Indian pointed out Crowfoot's lodge, and I went
there. After teUing him I was there I entered with the inter-
preter, leaving the men outside. The occupants, all men,
were seated in a circle round the lodge. They were leading
men of the tribe, and Crowfoot sat at the back facing the door,
with the half-breed occupying the place of honour on his right.
He sat there without a movement or sign, but the moment I
entered Crowfoot gazed fiercely at me and showed every
indication of hostility.
I spoke firmly to him but in a friendly way, and told the
interpreter to say that I had come to bring the half-breed to
Calgary, that he had been making mischief, and had to be
tried for his offence and must come with me now. I also told
the half-breed that he must come at once. He understood
English, and I spoke to him in that language, but he showed
no sign of moving. All this time L'Hereux was as pale as
death, with his knees knocking together in fright, and Crowfoot
was speaking with great vehemence, whilst the Indians were
expressing approval of what he was saying. I understood him
to be speaking in defiance of me, and told the interpreter to
tell him I was in earnest and would stand no nonsense. I said
to L'Hereux that he was not telling the truth to Crowfoot, that
he was temporizing with the chief, and I would not permit it.
He braced up a bit then and told the chief what I said to him.
Crowfoot then sprang up and came at me in a hostile manner,
but I waved him back, told him not to make an offensive move
or it would be the worse for him, and that if the worst came he
would be the first to suffer. I spoke sternly, straight at him
and moved close to him, and when he stood back I ordered
i84 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
L'Hereux to open the flap over the entrance or door of the
lodge. Holding my right hand on the butt of my revolver, I
seized the half-breed, who showed no sign of obeying me, by the
back of the shirt collar with my left hand, whirled him round
with his back towards me, and dragged him head foremost
through the door and had him outside before he had time to
resist. I gave him over to Kerr and Walters, who placed him
in the buckboard and secured him to the seat. I found the
lodge surrounded by hundreds of Indians, all of whom looked
sullen and hostile.
When my men seized the prisoner I made the interpreter
tell the assembled warriors that they must remember that
when the Mounted Police came for an Indian or white, that
person had to come, and that anyone who interfered would
suffer for it. I told Crowfoot to come out of the tent so that
I could speak to him, and that I had to have the half-breed
dead or alive, when I was sent for him, and that he. Crowfoot,
had behaved badly, although he had always received fair play,
that he acted as if he had been treated unjustly, whereas he
had received the greatest kindness from the Mounted Police
and all of the officers of the Indian Department, and was making
a poor return for it, and that I had expected his assistance
as the chief of a great tribe. Then I spoke to the other Indians
to the effect that anything the half-breed had said to them
or the chief was false. I gave them advice, which seemed to
have some effect, and then wrote a note to the C.P.R. agent
at Gleichen to let Crowfoot have a return ticket to Calgary,
saying to the chief, as I handed it to him, " You may go up to
Calgary and hear the half-breed tried by Ho-mux-a-stamix
(Lt.-Col. Irvine). If you think the prisoner will not be fairly
dealt with, then, perhaps, you may explain your conduct in
the tent. In future, I should advise you to assist to maintain
the law as you promised to do. When you go to Calgary to
attend the trial, you will find that you have been harbouring
a disturber of the peace."
Whereupon I sent the prisoner away with the men, and
when they had cleared the camp I sent by L'Hereux a message
to Mr. Begg, the agent, informing him that the half-breed
had been sent to Calgary under escort, and that he might be
A GRIEVOUS BLUNDER 185
needed at the trial as he had laid the charge. I then followed
the men, and when I arrived at Calgary I reported the circum-
stances to Supt. Herchmer, and the prisoner was lodged in the
cells. He was brought before Lt.-Col. Irvine next day. Supt.
Herchmer and Crowfoot were present, I was not, nor was I
invited or ordered to be. The charge against the half-breed
was dismissed !
Lt.-Col. Irvine told me recently that my report never reached
him, but Supt. Herchmer most distinctly informed me that
he had forwarded it to the commissioner. He said much more
that I remember well, and expressed dissatisfaction at the
result of the trial. In reply I expressed the opinion to him
that Riel having gone to Batoche and the half-breed having
come across with him at the same time, and at once fraternized
with his hereditary enemies the Blackfeet, had a sinister appear-
ance. Ten months later the truth of this was proved, and,
during the rebellion of the following year, had it not been for
the active work of the white officials. Colonel Macleod, the
agents and police, it is just possible that Crowfoot would have
shown his hand. The agent for the Bloods informed me in
1886 that Crowfoot tried to induce Red Crow, the Blood chief,
to rebel, but that chief, the best in the Blackfeet Nation, was
loyal throughout, and so was North Axe of the Peigans, and
all the headmen of those two tribes.
I left Calgary for the Rocky Mountains as soon as possible.
A great change had taken place at Calgary during the past
few months. The town site had been surveyed on the west
side of the Elbow near the police post, taking in the whole of
section fifteen ; a railway station was estabUshed and, as
soon as the authority was granted by the government, nearly
all the people on the east bank of the Elbow purchased lots
on the west side and moved their portable houses and furniture
across. LTie place had altered almost beyond recognition.
Where there had been a bare plain the previous summer, a
good start had been made for the present fine city, which
covers the hills dominating the pretty valleys of the two
rivers.
CHAPTER XI
The C.P.R. in the Rockies — The prohibition belt. — Difficulties in our
way- — Extension of our powers — The Tote Road' — Kicking Horse
Pass — A remarkable experience — I have a narrow escape — No
idling on the C.P.R.- — ^The British Association — ^The Beaver River —
Tall stories — American politics — A heated argument — A case of
self-defence — A mysterious murder — Gamblers and toughs —
" Rolhng "• — Our long hours — Unrest among the navvies — A
strike — The rebellion in the north west — Urgent appeals — I warn
the strikers — A difficult arrest — Strong measures — A riot averted
— Peace restored — The half-breeds' grievances — Louis Riel again
— Danger of an Indian outbreak — Outrages by the half-breeds —
The Prince Albert Volunteers — Duck Lake — Troops hurried west —
General Middleton's orders — The work of the Mounted Police —
Unfounded attacks in the press.
WHEN, in 1884, the Mounted Police took over the duty
of maintaining the law along the hne of construc-
tion of the C.P.R. in British Columbia, the belt
over which we had jurisdiction was only 20 miles
wide ; the surveyed line of the railroad was the centre, and
the area was proclaimed by the government under the Act
for the Preservation of Peace on Pubhc Works. The sale of
intoxicating liquor was prohibited, and the difficulties with
which we had to contend were that, unless there were a bar
in the tent or cabin, no liquor could be seized or confiscated.
Persons caught in the act of selling were only liable to a fine of
40 dollars for the first and second offences ; for the third they
might be imprisoned, but they got over that by transferring
the goodwill of the dive to another, who went on in the same
way. Another drawback was that the belt was so narrow that
the labourers could go out at any time after they received their
month's wages to places outside our belt and spend every
dollar in their possession, remaining there for a prolonged
spree, thus delaying the progress of the work and causing no
end of annoyance to the contractors.
The greatest obstacle in our way was the determination of
z86
TWENTY MILES FOR A DRINK 187
the government of British Columbia that the province should
not be deprived of its internal revenue. It therefore issued
to all comers licences to sell " spirituous and fermented
liquors " within the belt already proclaimed under the act.
This action gave courage to the liquor men, and many sold
who, had they not been granted licences, would not have
attempted it.
We had right on our side, however ; the building of the great
work must not be retarded. I therefore made up my mind
to enforce the laws to the limit, and, no matter how much
liquor was distributed and sold throughout our belt, that those
who were under its influence in public places or were in any
way disorderly should be dealt with in a way that would deter
others. I also recommended that the government increase the
width of the railway belt to 40 miles, and increase our powers
so that the magistrates could punish with imprisonment for
the second offence of selling intoxicating hquor. These sug-
gestions were approved and had a good effect. The wholesale
and retail stores on the edge of the 20 mile area had to move,
and navvies found a 20 mile walk too long for the sake of a
spree.
The end of the track at Laggan contained the offices and
residences of the principal officials of the company. The
latter were situated along the beautiful banks of the Bow.
There were several small stores, a few saloons, the post office
and boarding-house for the company, and, as our men had been
vigilant ever since they were posted, there was not much cause
for complaint.
Trains ran regularly, bringing men and materials from the
east, but there was small chance of the end of the hne being
moved on for some months. The difficulties in the vicinity were
enormous and would take a considerable time to overcome.
The work was being pushed forward with great vigour to the
first crossing of the Columbia River, nearly 70 miles west.
This place is now the town and railway divisional point of
Donald, named after Lord Strathcona. As it was important
that detachments of the force should be placed wherever
required, I left Laggan with a strong party the day after I
arrived.
i88 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
We were mounted on exceptional horses and moved along
what was called the Tote road, which had been constructed a
few weeks earlier to enable the company and the contractors
to transport their supphes. These were carried by horse and
mule teams ; stores had been established at convenient
distances, each presided over by a capable employee. From
them the contractors obtained their food, forage, etc., which
they hauled with their own teams to their contracts.
The Tote road was exceptionally rough. On the right
bank near the Columbia it was cut out of the sohd rock for
several miles, some hundreds of feet above the river and,
except at the Kicking Horse Flats near the Beaverfoot Pass,
where the stream spread out into several fordable channels,
it was not of sufficient width to admit of teams passing. I
placed detachments at all points where large numbers of men
were employed, and gave them orders to protect all employed
in legitimate occupations.
The Kicking Horse Pass was named by the famous Dr. Hec-
tor, who was Captain Palliser's assistant in the exploration of
western Canada during the late fifties. He had explored the
pass accompanied by a party of Indians, and at one of his camps
had the misfortune to be kicked by a wild horse, which he had
been attempting to saddle and pack when the brute lashed out
furiously, breaking several of the good doctor's ribs and ren-
dering him unconscious. The Indians thought he was dead,
and had dug a grave and placed him in it when they saw signs
of Ufe and, taking him out of the grave, restored him to
consciousness.
The trail along the side of the mountains near Golden was
only suitable for pack animals until the Tote road was con-
structed. It was very dangerous ; at the highest part it was
more than a thousand feet above the foaming torrent and
bad enough anywhere. One of the most remarkable experi-
ences on it was that of Mr. H. S. Holt, C.E., now of Montreal.
He was making his trip over the pack trail from the head of
the Kicking Horse to the Columbia. Mr. A. R. Hogg, a prom-
inent engineer, two assistant engineers and two packers com-
posed his party, and he was riding a spirited broncho which
he had used on the plains, and which had no experience of
AN AMAZING ESCAPE 189
mountain trails. When he got to the lower canyon of the
Kicking Horse, being the leader of the party, he found the
trail very bad ; at one point his horse began slipping on a
loose stone, but he managed to dismount and tried to make
the brute back up, which she would have done had she been a
trained mountain pony. Instead of backing up she started
forward and hit Mr. Holt in the chest, knocking him over the
side of the canyon, which at that point was perpendicular
and about 75 feet from the trail to the river below. In falling
he turned a complete somersault, landing on his stomach on
the trunk of a dead tree which had been caught in the rocks
on the side of the canyon. The distance was afterwards meas-
ured, and the tree was found to be 2y^ feet below the trail.
The horse and the stone on which she slipped, which must have
weighed at least 800 pounds, also fell over the cliff, but
fortunately fell clear of the tree in which Mr. Holt had lodged,
and both fell to the bottom of the canyon.
When the rest of the party came up they lowered to Mr.
Holt a lariat, which he tied under his arms, and they pulled
him up to the trail. Looking down he saw the horse lying on
the rocks below ; thinking her leg was broken and being
unable to get down the perpendicular wall of the canyon, he
concluded that it was best to shoot her and proceeded to carry
his idea into execution. He succeeded in putting five bullets of
his revolver into the horse's head without touching a vital
spot. The animal then struggled to her feet and fell into the
river, which was at that season and all summer a raging
torrent, and was carried down about half a mile to the opposite
shore.
The next day Mr. Holt sent his packers back to try to recover
the saddle and bridle and some papers which were in the saddle
bags. They found the horse lying on the rocks with one eye
shot out, three ribs broken and one leg almost cut off. As they
knew that the animal was a favourite with its owner, they
built a shelter of brush over the poor beast and made her as
comfortable as possible. When it was reported to Mr. Holt,
he sent them back with some oats and gave instructions to
them to feed the poor animal and give her a chance to recover,
which, wonderful to relate, she did. She was sent to Mr.
igo FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Holt's ranch for a year, and when the Alberta Field Force was
raised for the suppression of the rebellion I saw a man, who
had been employed as a mail carrier in the Rockies, in the
ranks of the Alberta Mounted Rifles, riding a one-eyed horse,
which he informed me, and so did others, was the animal
which went over the canyon with Mr. Holt.
A skittish or shying horse on that trail was an impossible
beast. Horses are seldom found to be afraid of a precipice.
They fear the rocky wall away from the brink and, if of
the shying kind, keep working away from it. After the Tote
road was built on that rocky height, some hundreds of feet
above the Kicking Horse, some fresh mounts were sent to me
from Calgary, and when I received them at Laggan I selected
a fine-looking animal to take me to Golden. At the high and
precipitous part of the Tote road I met an Italian navvy with
his bundle of blankets, and he, as was then the custom, instead
of going to the right, planted himself against the wall of rock
furthest from the precipice. At the sight of the extraordinary
object, my horse, crazed with fright, whirled about, and I just
saved myself and the horse by hurling myself on to the road.
I kept a strong hold of the reins and head collar and hung on
to the animal, whose hindquarters were over the brink, with
its body resting on the rocky edge. My companion, who rode
a steady horse, ran to my assistance, and with our united
efforts we dragged the brute on to the road. Needless to say
I had to send the horse back to Calgary with a letter to the
effect that if the O.C. there valued our lives he would keep
such brutes for the plains as they were of no use in the
mountains.
The summer of 1884 on the prairie and in the mountains
was very wet ; rain fell nearly every day for at least two
months. The wet summer, however, did not in the least
retard the work of construction. The men were busy, wet or
dry. On one contract the time books, which I was shown,
proved that the men averaged more than ten hours per day
per month ; some of them had thirteen or fourteen hours per
day to their credit, especially in the Swedish camps. If it
rained too hard for an hour or two they made up for it when
it slackened, and as I rode along I often saw them working in
I MEET THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION igi
the moonlight, particularly those who had taken the small
contracts called station work, where four or live men, generally
Swedes, would join together in a small contract where there
was no rock.
One thing worth mention was the almost total absence of
accidents through the handling of explosives. There were only
two, a clear proof of the care exercised by the contractors,
who would never employ any but the most experienced rock
foremen. This is a marked contrast to the construction of
other railroads.
The medical department was under Doctors Orton and
Brett, who, in spite of the great drawbacks, were successful
in keeping down disease, most of which was caused by bad
sanitation. The most common complaint was typhoid, which
they called mountain fever, and there were many cases.
On one of my trips to Laggan I met the British Association
on its first visit to western Canada. They had come under the
auspices of the C.P.R. and were delighted with the sublime
grandeur of the Rocky Mountains and the wild scenery of the
Kicking Horse Pass. Some members of the Association went
as far as the terminal in the flats, and one, the proprietor of a
Welsh newspaper, walked to the end of the construction, and
on his return to the old land wrote many interesting articles.
He approved of everything but the severity with which we
dealt with road agents, thieves and murderers. He seemed
to prefer that we should manage such gentry according to the
methods of orphanages or reformatories.
When the tunnels on Kicking Horse were finished and the
end of the track at Golden, I had to see about moving on, and
arranged with Mr. Ross to have winter quarters built at
Donald, but when they were almost complete it was ascertained
that the end of the track would be at Beaver River, and that
it would be better to locate my headquarters there for the
winter. Accordingly, a good log building was constructed
by the company. It was very strong, with cells for thirty
prisoners, a separate portion for women, a court-room, two
rooms for myself, a mess for the staff of the road, excellent
quarters for my men, and stables.
On my way back to Golden I strained my ankle owing to
192 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
my horse jibbing at a tree and had to lay up from riding, but
continued my work on the bench.
One of the most amusing characters on the construction was
the sheriff, whose duty it was to collect the poll tax of three
dollars each levied on all persons in the district, and in addition
to issue licences, etc. His chief amusement was to get a number
of friends round him and relate to them some experiences,
which made Baron Munchausen's efforts seem puny by com-
parison. One of them was that when skating on the ice of one
of our rivers he was pursued by wolves and, after dodging them
for a considerable time, would at last have been obliged to
succumb had he not been rescued by two men who were
hoeing potatoes on the shore !
After which he related that when in Australia he arrested a
man to whose handcuffs he fastened his lariat and led the
prisoner beside his horse. On arrival in court the accused
complained that he had been ill-treated, the constable having
galloped the whole way, taking chasms 20 feet in width by a
flying leap ! Our friend protested that he had done nothing
of the kind, that he had not noticed anything in the way, but,
in spite of all his protests, the magistrate went with him and
the prisoner over the route to verify the statement, and, as
the sheriff said, " What was the result ? Would you believe
it ; I had done it ! "
Early in the autumn, when the Cleveland-Blain contest was
at its height, a curious circumstance took place at the Kicking
Horse Flats, where there were a few saloons, which resulted in
the first homicide, and the only one, which occurred within
the jurisdiction of the North West Mounted Pohce. A large
number of American citizens had got together in the tent
which a coloured barber used as his shop. Two of them were
Irish-Americans, one a big brakesman and the other a small,
peppery conductor. The latter, who was a Democrat, got into
a heated argument with the barber, who professed Republican
principles. While this was going on the brakesman noticed a
pistol in the hip pocket of his friend the conductor and, to
prevent any shooting, removed it without being perceived and
placed it in his own pocket. A short time afterwards the
barber became infuriated, drew a razor, made a rush and began
A TOO ARDENT REPUBLICAN 193
slashing at the crowd. Everyone made for the tent door, but
the conductor was forced into a comer whence escape was
impossible, and the enraged barber made a pass to disembowel
him, cutting through his waistcoat and making a hole in his
shirt. He closed in to make another stroke when, as quick as
a flash, the brakesman thought of the pistol, drew it and
" filled him full of holes." He then fled, thinking that he would
suffer all sorts of pains and penalties. The constable in the
vicinity reported the matter at once, and the brakesman was
followed to the north west and brought before me. I investi-
gated the case, which clearly showed that the killing was done
in self-defence, and obtained by telegraph from the Attomey-
Grcneral of British Columbia authority to admit the prisoner
to bail.
Soon after this occurrence I heard from a man named John-
ston, who had a roadside inn called the Hog Ranche, about
22 miles south of Golden, that a Mr. Baird, in the employ
of Eddy-Hammond & Co., of Missoula, Montana, had been
murdered 3 miles south of the hotel on the trail to Montana,
while on his way to Missoula with 5,000 dollars collected from
persons doing business with his firm. On receipt of the
report I sent two men in pursuit, Johnston having stated that
the murderer must have gone south and that he had sent
word to rouse the Indians in that direction. The police
ascertained at the hotel that the murdered man had with him
the packer and a blacksmith named Manuel Dainard, both
very respectable men, and that an attempt had been made
to kill all three.
They went to the place and searched for tracks, and found
three 4575 Winchester cartridges behind the upturned root
from which the murderer had fired his fatal shot. They also
tracked him back to where he had spent the night at a fire in
the woods, and from there to where he stood early in the
morning on the hill above the hotel, watching the httle party
making their preparations to start, whence he was tracked
back to the pine-root where he posted himself to do the shoot-
ing. Another strike from there resulted in finding where he
had run after the pack-horse, caught it and cut open the pack,
an evidence that he was no packer. The tracks were followed
194 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
through the ford at Golden, and in it a new Winchester rifle
was found ; three shells had been fired and five were in the
magazine. The constables reported that Manuel Dainard had
stated that the man was unknown to him, but wore a beard,
was tall and had a stoop. I sent them on, caused every camp to
be visited, wired to the Winnipeg police and to every important
point east and south, to the Attorney-General of British
Columbia and to our headquarters.
The two constables went as far as the Second Crossing of
the Columbia, now Revelstoke, and to rest their horses slept
at a camp in the Selkirks, in a tent with a man named Bull
Dog Kelly, who was going in the same direction. He was the
murderer, but in no way, except as regards height, did Dainard's
description tally with his. Kelly disappeared at the Columbia,
and for a time we were completely baffled. The finale was not
in sight for many months ; but the case was never lost sight
of, and large rewards were offered by the government of British
Columbia and the firm to which Baird belonged.
I kept my headquarters at Golden until ever5rthing was
ready at the Beaver, but placed a detachment there under the
command of Sergeant Fury, who could easily be depended upon
to keep order in the place. After Christmas I transferred my
headquarters to the Beaver, which was within a mile of the
end of the track.
We had a great deal of trouble with gamblers and toughs
of every description, who had concentrated first at Donald,
and had built log-houses, saloons and dens of all sorts ; on
that account the end of the track was pushed on to the Beaver,
where some of the stores, the postal-car, etc., were located.
Mr. Ross established the headquarters of the construction staff
at Donald in the log-houses which had been buflt for us, but
as there was nothing left as an inducement to the tough element
to remain, they moved on to the bridge at the Beaver and
located opposite our post. They built saloons, dance-halls
and disorderly houses of the cedar logs. Each saloon paid the
licence fees demanded by our friend the sheriff.
The people lived by preying upon the navvies who might
appear amongst them on pay day and get drunk. The term
" rolling " was common, originating in the practice of turning
THE POLICE KEPT BUSY 195
over an incapable man, searching his pockets and appropriating
anything which might be found therein. The best thing that
could happen to such a man to prevent him from being robbed
was to place him in the cells. I know of only three or four
who came into court the second or third time ; the reminder
and advice seemed to have a salutary effect.
The whisky " dives " were busy, and as Mr. Ross would not
permit the trains to bring food for them or any others of the
tough element, they had to resort to every kind of dodge and
dishonest act to obtain the necessaries of life ; consequently,
we were kept more than occupied, and every ceU was full.
Sleighs left unloaded and unwatched at any siding or camp
would be likely to have part of their loads missing in the
morning ; a few sub-contractors were tempted to sell part of
their supplies, which they could, of course, replace at the com-
pany's stores, but the greater quantity was obtained by sneak
thieving.
In the evenings the fun began at dances to which the navvies
and toughs went, but as half of the police were on patrol the
greatest order possible with such a class of men prevailed.
When by any chance a fight or riot took place, the cells were
j&lled and I was kept busy all the forenoon disposing of the
prisoners, from five to thirty of these appearing every morning,
and my afternoons were often occupied in summary trials for
petty theft, assault, etc. The town being awake most of the
night, we had to be likewise, in case there should be a sudden
demand for more assistance, and I must admit that no people
in the world earned the title of " night hawk ' more honestly
than we of the Mounted Police camp at the Beaver. We were
rarely to bed before two or three a.m., and were up in the
morning between six and seven and breakfasted at eight.
In February the suitability of the Selkirks for a railway by
the Rogers Pass was severely tested. Avalanches of the most
tremendous weight and power began to roar down the mountain
sides. The blasting was partly responsible for this state of
things. Glaciers, which had never left their rocky beds above
the clouds, under the shocks of the blasting operations broke
away and came crashing down, cutting pathways from a quarter
to half a mile wide through the forest below. One avalanche,
196 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
which came at the summit of the pass 20 miles from the Beaver
camp, descended 5,000 feet with such velocity that it went
across the valley and up on the opposite side for 800 feet.
During the month of February and early in March, 1885,
many of the men employed on the construction complained
to me that they had not been paid for some time, and that
the money was much needed for their homesteads in Manitoba,
Minnesota and Dakota. In every case I counselled patience,
saying that the money would be forthcoming and all claims
settled, but in spite of my advice the complaints at last became
serious. Having a thorough knowledge of what was going
on, I learned that a strike was on the point of being arranged.
When the numbers applying to me increased and the men spoke
of striking I again asked them to wait, as there was no sense
in worrying when there was a certainty of the money coming
to them very shortly. In fact, I did everything in my power
to avert a strike, which I feared would lead to rioting and the
destruction of property by a large number of ruffians, gamblers
and murderers from the Northern Pacific who had left it on the
completion of that road. Several of these had been south
early in the winter, and but few of them were free from the
crimes of robbery or murder in the United States. Amongst
them was one who had just returned from a health resort
in Arkansas, where it was reported that he had killed three
men.
There had been mutterings of rebellion in the North West
Territory, which did not surprise me. It was, therefore, plain
that, in the event of a strike taking place, I should have no
help from that quarter, but I was confident that with the
assistance of the railway staff and other well-disposed persons,
and with the influence which we had with all classes, I could
control the situation. As it was my duty to give warning to
all concerned, I told Mr. Ross that a strike was likely to take
place at any moment, but I could not convince him of the
danger. On my return to camp I telegraphed to the Prime
Minister that a strike was imminent on the C.P.R. and that
the results might be serious. I then made arrangements with
Mr. George Hope Johnston to go up the line and assist in
maintaining order, in case I was attacked by the illness which
THE NAVVIES STRIKE 197
I felt was coming on. The next day I was do^vn with fever,
and was ordered to stay in bed.
The men struck before I was convalescent, and Mr, Johnston,
with Father Fay and several men of the force, went up the
line to the west and advised the strikers to be careful to abstain
from any lawlessness. Father Fay had much influence with
the men who were on strike, particularly those of his own
church, and could be relied on to the fullest extent. I was on
the mend, but very weak, when the Lieutenant Governor
of the North West Territories telegraphed me to come out of
the mountains with all my men. I was obliged to reply to the
effect that the strike made it impossible. I did not report
my illness, for I was aware that there was no relief for me,
the news having come that the rebellion in the north west
had broken out and that there had been an engagement at
Duck Lake. My inclinations were the very contrary to what
I felt was my duty, but it would have been sheer madness to
leave. Some days later I had an urgent wire from the Mayor
of Calgary to this effect : " For God's sake, come ; there
is danger of an attack by the Blackfeet ! " I replied : " Can-
not leave ; telegraph the Lieutenant Governor."
The navvies had struck work on April i, and informed
the manager of construction that unless paid up at once in
full and more regularly in future they would do no more work.
They also openly talked of their intention to commit acts
of violence upon the staff of the road and destroy property.
A deputation of their leaders came to see me, and I managed
to sit up in my chair to receive them. I assured them that
they made a great mistake in striking and that, if they com-
mitted any act of violence and were not orderly in the strictest
sense of the word, I should inflict on the offenders the
severest punishment the law would allow me. They saw the
manager of construction, who promised to do the best he could
if they would return to their camps. Some were satisfied with
this, and several hundreds returned to their work. Many
remained at the Beaver, however, where a large number
of loose characters were ready to urge them to any mischief,
and pretended to be waiting for their money. They were
apparently very quiet, but I learned that they had about 300
igS FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
of their number, most of them armed with revolvers, who were
to watch the strikers at the end of the track and prevent
them from doing any work, and that they were ordering the
tracklayers • to strike, the teamsters to leave their teams
and the bridgemen, who were Canadians, to stop work.
I had only eight men at the Beaver, as I had sent detach-
ments to the points threatened, and instructed the men to use
the strictest measures with any who tried to prevent the work
of construction. Amongst the men sent out was a small party
from the post under the command of Sergeant Fury, who
proceeded to the place where the tracklayers were to work.
A train load of them had been sent out but, intimidated by
the strikers, had been driven back to the yards. Mr. James
Ross then mounted the engine and proceeded to the spot ;
when he came to the strikers' position he told the engineer
to put on all steam and run past the crowd, which he did, and
although several shots were fired no one was hurt. It was
fortunate that this happened at the narrow canyon of the
Beaver, for the cutting was only the width of the road bed,
so that a few men could hold the position against a multi-
tude. The strikers proceeded to follow the train, making a
great uproar and firing their revolvers, but the tracklayers
started to work at once, and Sergeant Fury drew his party
across the canyon to meet the strikers' advance, and upon
their arrival stepped to the front and announced that he
would shoot anyone crossing the line. The strikers at this
made a great noise and started a hostile demonstration,
but the determined attitude of the police, and their strong
position with both flanks covered, eventually overawed them,
and, seeing the futility of further attempts, they gradually
broke up and retired to the Beaver, allowing the tracklayers
to finish their day's work.
When the sergeant returned and reported the circumstances
of the day, I rose as best I could and sat in a camp chair,
awaiting the return of Constable Kerr, one of the men who
had been in camp all day and had gone to the end of the track
for a bottle of medicine ordered for me. Shortly after I
had risen Mr. Johnston came in to see how I was and to ask
if there were anything that he could do, and a few minutes
A CRITICAL MOMENT 199
later Sergeant Fury returned, stating that Constable Kerr on
his way back saw a desperate character inciting the strikers
to make an attack on the barracks, and that he had attempted,
single-handed, to arrest him, but had been overpowered and
forced to leave the ground. After hearing what the ser-
geant had to say I remarked, "It is a pity that he attempted
the arrest without sufficient assistance, but as he has done
so we must take the man at any cost. It will never do to let him
or the remainder of the gang think they can play with us.
Take what men you require and arrest him."
Fury went off at once, but after a long interval returned with
his jacket torn and other evidences of a struggle about him,
saying as he entered, " They took the prisoner from us, sir."
I replied, " That is too bad. Take your revolvers and shoot
anyone who interferes with the arrest ! " He started off again,
and Johnston went to the window and watched the party cross
the bridge which connected our barracks with the town and
disappear round some buildings. The men were Sergeant
Fury, Constables Fane, Craig and Walters. In a few minutes
we heard a shot, and Johnston said, " There is one gone
to hell, Steele." I went to the window and saw Craig
and Walters dragging the accused man across the bridge,
the desperado fighting like a fiend, while a woman in scarlet
followed them with wild shrieks and curses. Fury and Fane
were in the rear, trying to keep off the crowd. I rushed out,
caUing upon Mr. Johnston to get the Riot Act and come with me.
Seizing the Winchester rifle from the constable on guard at the
gaol, I ran to the bridge, and as the crowd was on the point
of making a rush on to it, I covered them with the rifle and
called upon them to halt or I would fire. They answered with
curses and cries of " Look at the ; his own death-bed makes
no difference to him I " but they halted. In the meantime the
prisoner was strugghng fiercely with the men who had him, but
half-way across Walters raised his huge fist and struck him over
the temple, and with Craig trailed him by the collar, as insen-
sible as a rag. As the woman passed screaming, " You red-
coated ! " I said " Take her in too ! " and went forward
over the bridge to the crowd.
By this time Johnston had joined me with the Riot Act,
200 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
which he had to get by kicking the orderly-room door open, the
key being with Constable Fane, who was busy in the riot, and we
stood together before the rioters, Johnston opened the book,
and I said, " Listen to this, and keep your hands off your guns,
or I will shoot the first man of you who makes a hostile move-
ment." Johnston then read the Riot Act, and when he had
finished I said, " You have taken advantage of the fact that a
rebelUon has broken out in the north west and that I have only
a handful of men, but, as desperate diseases require desperate
remedies, and both disease and remedy are here, I warn you
that if I find more than twelve of you standing together or any
large crowd assembled I will open fire upon you and mow you
down 1 Now disperse at once and behave yourselves 1 " By
this time a considerable number of engineers, respectable mer-
chants and contractors, all well armed, had assembled at the
barracks to back me up. The eight Mounted Police stood at the
head of the bridge under Fury with magazines charged, ready
to act when needed. Johnston and I remained where we were
until the rioters had dispersed and then sent the man whom
Fury had wounded to the hospital for treatment from the
C.P.R. doctors. Mr. Ross was very kind to him.
Darkness came on soon after that and, as there was danger
of an attack on the gaol to rescue the cause of the trouble, I
obtained a locomotive from Mr. Ross and sent the prisoner
through the woods to the end of track, whence he was taken to
my detachment at Palliser, where there were cells to accom-
modate him. Next morning Beaver and all along the line was as
quiet as a country village on Sunday, and as now was the time I
caused all who had been ringleaders in the attempt to prevent
the arrest to be brought before Mr. Johnston and myself. They
pleaded guilty and were fined loo dollars each, or 6 months'
imprisonment with hard labour. After they were sentenced I
went by locomotive to Palhser and tried the man there ; he was
sentenced to the same punishment. It was several hundreds
of miles over the mountains to the nearest gaol in British Col-
umbia, and, the Mounted Police having been ordered to Calgary,
it was deemed best to give lighter punishments in hopes that it
would be sufficiently deterrent. We were right ; no further
trouble occurred. The strike had collapsed, the roughs of the
LOUIS KIEL AGAIN 201
Beaver, having had a lesson, were quiet. I was much pleased
and so were all the contractors, Mr. Ross especially. The con-
duct of the police was all that could be desired ; there were only
eight at the Beaver at the time, and they faced the powerful
mob of 700 with as much resolution as if backed by hundreds.
On April 7 the labourers were all paid, and I proceeded at once
to Calgary, leaving Sergeant Fury in charge to collect the men
and horses when everything had been settled. On my way out
Mr. Ross wired to me to return if possible, but I was obhged
to reply regretting that my orders to go on to Calgary were
imperative.
The rebellion in the north west had broken out in March, but
trouble had been brewing for many months. The first report on
the subject of unrest was made on July 13, 1884, when Supt.
Crozier, who was in command of the police in the North
Saskatchewan, stated that the half-breeds claimed to have
grievances. Louis Riel, who had been the head of the previous
outbreak in the Red River settlement, had been asked by them
to come to the country from Montana. He had consented, and
was now acting as their leader and representative. This dis-
turber had been living at the half-breed settlement of the Judith
Basin, in the State of Montana, where he had eked out an
existence by acting as a worker to catch votes for a political
party in the United States, and was looked upon with little
or no respect.
Throughout July, August and September there were reports
of meetings of half-breeds and Indians, which Riel addressed.
On September i a meeting was held at St. Laurent, where a man
called Jackson made an inflammatory speech, in which he
said that the North West Territory " belonged to the Indians
and not to the Dominion of Canada."
In October a Mounted Police post was established at Carlton,
and the police of the northern division were increased to 200,
distributed between Battleford, Carlton, Prince Albert and Fort
Pitt.
On December 23 Supt. Gagnon, who had been placed in
command of the force at Carlton on account of his knowledge of
the French language and long experience, reported that the
half-breeds of St. Laurent and Batoche had held a public
202 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
meeting to adopt a petition, which had been duly forwarded to
Ottawa, and that Riel was pressed to remain amongst them,
and had been presented with a house and would be given a
purse next month. It also appeared that the chief grievance
amongst the half-breeds was that the government would not
sanction the way in which they wished to take their home-
steads, viz., ten chains front on the Saskatchewan River and
a depth of two miles, a system to which they had been
accustomed in the Red River settlement. They had in many
cases laid out their lots in that way, so as to have a frontage
on the river for everyone. No doubt that grievance should
have been settled forthwith.
During January reports from several posts indicated " all
quiet." The next report was that the agitation seemed to
have died a natural death and that Riel had said that he was
going to leave the country as he was not recognized by the
government as a British subject. This was considered necess-
ary on his part to enable him to fan the flames. The result
was that a meeting was held to induce him to stay in the
country, to which request he consented.
On March lo Gagnon telegraphed that the half-breeds were
excited and moving about more than usual and that they
proposed to prevent supplies going in after the i6th. On the
nth the commissioner received a telegram from Crozier at
Carlton, ordering a seven-pounder gun and 25 men to that
place from Battleford.
He again telegraphed Colonel Irvine : " Half-breed re-
bellion liable to break out at any moment. Troops must be
largely reinforced. If half-breeds rise the Indians will join
them." Colonel Irvine recommended that at least 100 men
should be sent at once, and on the 15th telegraphed to the de-
partment at Ottawa : " Lieutenant Governor thinks I should
go north at once ; roads and rivers will soon break up." In
reply he received orders to start for the north with all available
men and 20 horses from Calgary.
On the 17th Crozier telegraphed : " Present movements
and preparations have quieted matters. No cause for alarm
now." There was no likelihood of this apparent security being
able to continue, at least Colonel Irvine thought not, and he
OUTBREAK OF THE REBELLION 203
carried out existing arrangements, his opinion being con-
firmed by two urgent appeals from Crozier on the i8th for
more men, followed on the 19th by the report that the half-
breeds had seized stores at the South Saskatchewan and had
made Mr. Lash, the Indian agent, prisoner, besides committing
further depredations.
On the i8th Colonel Irvine left Regina with 4 officers, 86
N.C.O.'s and men and 66 horses, all that could be spared, but
ridiculously small for the purpose of holding the north. At the
small station on the Salt Plain, where they camped for the
night, he received a dispatch from Crozier to the effect that some
Indians had already joined the rebels and that others were
likely to join them shortly. Their numbers were estimated at
from 200 to 400.
At Humboldt they were joined by Mr. Hayter Reed, assist-
ant Indian commissioner, who remained with Colonel Irvine
throughout. At that point it was learned that about 400 half-
breeds were assembled at Batoche to prevent the police from
joining Crozier.
On the 23rd the rebels broke camp, and soon afterwards
Colonel Irvine was informed that the mail station at Hoodoo
had been sacked by them. He found that the report was
correct. Everything in the shape of provisions and grain had
been looted. The stage driver had been made prisoner and
carried off with his horses.
On the 24th the commissioner and party kept on the Batoche
trail for six miles, then turned in a north-easterly direction to-
wards Agnew's Crossing of the South Saskatchewan, thus out-
flanking the half-breeds at Batoche. The march was con-
tinued in the evening, and Prince Albert was reached about
8 p.m. In reaching Prince Albert the commissioner felt that
the most difficult and arduous part of the object in view, viz.,
affecting a junction with Crozier's force at Carlton, had been
effected in a markedly successful manner. The plan of the
rebels had been to prevent an increase to the force at
Carlton by resisting the crossing of the south branch of the
Saskatchewan.
Soon after his arrival he received much valuable information
from Mr. Thomas Mackay. He had intended to reach Carlton
204 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
on March 25, but, on Mr. Mackay's assurance that all was quiet
at that post and as his horses had been travelling over a frozen
trail for nearly 300 miles, and it was necessary that their shoeing
should be attended to, the men's outfit inspected and volunteers
engaged to defend the place. Colonel Irvine decided to remain
there for the day and keep Crozier informed of his movements
and strength by sending a despatch to him giving full particu-
lars.
On the 26th Colonel Irvine left Prince Albert for Carlton,
taking with him 83 of his men and 25 volunteers. The ser-
vices of the latter were offered with a perfect knowledge of the
dangers which they had to face, but like loyal and gallant
citizens of our country they were ready and anxious to be em-
ployed. Colonel Irvine engaged them in order to increase the
number of the Mounted Police available for service outside the
post, and by prompt action to crush the rebellion at the outset.
He knew that if this were not done thousands of Indians would
be on the warpath, and it would require a fair-sized army to
subdue them. It was not his intention to take the Prince
Albert men from their homes for any great length of time, for
they would soon be required there with their families, and
besides. Prince Albert was an important point and must be
guarded. This was made known to the citizens when they were
engaged.
During the afternoon Colonel Irvine received the following
from Supt. Gagnon : " Supt. Crozier with 100 men started out on
Duck Lake trail to help one of our sergeants and small party in
difficulty at Mitchell's store. I have 70 men and can hold the
fort against odds. Do not expect Crozier to push on further
than Duck Lake. Everything is quiet here."
The force was pushed on rapidly on receipt of the despatch,
hoping to be in time to avert further trouble, but on top of the
hill above Carlton the commissioner received another despatch
from Gagnon, which read : " Crozier exchanged shots with
rebels at Duck Lake ; 6 men reported shot, Crozier retreating on
Carlton. Everything quiet here, but ready for an emergency."
Colonel Irvine arrived at Carlton in the afternoon of the 26th
and there met Crozier, who had just returned from Duck Lake.
Early that morning he had sent a party, consisting of a sergeant
THE FIRST REVERSE 205
and 17 constables, with 8 sleighs under Mr. Thomas Mackay of
Prince Albert, to secure a quantity of provisions and ammuni-
tion from the store of Mr. Mitchell, a trader of Duck Lake.
When within 3 miles of Duck Lake, Mr. Mackay, who was
riding in front, saw 4 of the Mounted Police scouts falling back,
pursued by a large number of half-breeds and Indians, where-
upon Mackay rode back to the sleighs, halted them and ordered
the men to load their rifles and get ready. Then like a true
Mackay he went forward to meet the rebels, who were all well
armed and mounted and being rapidly reinforced.
They behaved in a very overbearing and excited manner,
demanding the surrender of the party. Mackay refused to
surrender and told them in Cree that if they fired, two could
play at that game, and all the time Gabriel Dumont and
others kept prodding loaded and cocked guns against Mackay's
ribs, at the same time threatening to blow out his brains ! Two
of them jumped on a sleigh belonging to his party and tried
to get possession of the team, but the fearless Mackay ordered
the driver not to give it up, and all the while the Metis jeered
at his small party and called out, " Now, if you are men, come
on ! " Mackay then feU back on Carlton, cautioning the
rebels not to follow and keeping a sharp look out upon
them.
In the meantime a scout had warned Crozier, and on
Mackay's return to the fort, Crozier started for Duck Lake
with a bronze 7-pounder and 100 officers and men to secure
the stores which the first party had not been able to get.
He met the rebels about a mile and a half from Mitchell's
store. After half an hour's fighting it was quite evident that
the way to Duck Lake could not be forced and that to remain
longer on the field against such odds would mean much greater
loss, if not annihilation. The attempt to continue the fight
was then abandoned, Crozier withdrawing his men in good order
to Carlton. Mr. Thomas Mackay was the last man of the
rearguard, and on taking a final shot at Dumont, leader of
the rebels, he wounded him in the head. This deterred
the half-breeds from pursuing the force ; they would not
venture without Dumont. We lost 9 killed and 14 wounded,
of whom 3 subsequently died.
206 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
In connection with the fight at Duck Lake, Colonel Irvine
states in his report :
As you will doubtless notice from the substance of my pre-
vious remarks, I cannot but consider it a matter of regret that,
with the knowledge that both myself and command were
within a few miles of and en route to Carlton, Superintendent
Crozier should have marched out as he did, particularly in
the face of what had transpired earlier in the day. I am led
to the belief that this officer's better judgment was overruled
by the impetuosity displayed by both the Police and Volunteers.
However, once this action had been taken, much confidence,
power and prestige were established throughout the rebel
ranks, and thus Rial found his hands materially strengthened.
In saying this, let me beg you to understand that I do not for
a moment lose sight of the steady conduct and most gallant
bearing of our officers, non-commissioned officers and men,
and the Prince Albert Volunteers, under the most severe fire
• experienced during the whole campaign.
Even before Colonel Irvine arrived at Carlton he felt assured
of the determined opposition which the loyal forces would
meet from the Metis, who relied on the blood relationship
between them and the Indians to bring the latter over to them
as allies.
On Colonel Irvine's arrival a council of war was held to
decide upon what action should be taken under the circum-
stances, and the unanimous opinion was that the safety of
the country lay in placing Prince Albert in a tenable position,
and it was necessary that the Volunteers should return there
to guard their homes, families and property. Colonel Irvine
was strongly and justly of this opinion, and it was agreed to,
as Prince Albert and the country in the vicinity represented
the only white settlement within hundreds of miles. Battle-
ford, a very small one, lay about 140 miles distant, and the
next was Fort Qu'appelle. The section south of the white
settlement of Prince Albert was already in possession of the
rebels, and consisted of their habitations and farms. In view
of the opinion of the council it was decided by Colonel Irvine
to evacuate Carlton, and the force was scarcely outside the
gates when the place was in flames, caused by a fire which had
been lighted to warm up a room for the wounded.
IMPORTANCE OF PRINCE ALBERT 207
No sooner did the news of the Duck Lake fight spread
through the land than the people of the whole prairie region
were in a state of alarm. The Indians along the North
Saskatchewan, already warned by the emissaries of Riel,
rose in rebellion, or were ready to do so, according to the turn
which events should take. The settlers, missionaries, Indian
department employees, telegraph operators and others were
either murdered or had to fly for their lives to Mounted Police
or Hudson's Bay posts. Prince Albert, Battleford, Fort
Saskatchewan and Edmonton were crowded to the limit of
their accommodation, and the citizens of every town in the
west organized home guards and prepared for defence.
On receipt of the report of the Duck Lake fight troops were
hurried to the front. The first ordered were the 90th Winni-
peg Rifles and the 13th Winnipeg Field Battery. The difficulty
of moving troops from eastern Canada at that time of the
year when the lakes were frozen was very great. The C.P.R.
along the north shore of Lake Superior had not yet been
completed, and long stretches between the sections already
constructed had to be passed by the troops along the ice-
bound shores of the lake.
In the meantime the presence at Prince Albert of the
N.W.M.P. saved that settlement from falling into the hands
of the Metis and their fierce allies. The place was the key of
the loyal position in that part of the north west, and had it
been taken there is no doubt the rebellion would have assumed
greater proportions. At one time large numbers of Sioux
Indians moved with the intention of making a raid upon it ;
but they abandoned the scheme when they saw the trail of
the Mounted Police leading to Prince Albert. The loyalty of
a large number of Indians and half-breeds was doubtful ; they
had to be carefully watched, and eventually the powerful
influence of the Mounted Police and loyal citizens of Prince
Albert deterred considerable numbers of rebel sympathizers
from going over to the enemy. In the meantime General
Middleton, with a contingent of troops, arrived in the disturbed
area, and Colonel Irvine suggested to him that their forces
should combine, but at that time he was under the impression,
from the nature of the messages of the G.O.C., that he had
208 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
only a total strength with him of 350 men, with 1000 following.
He also had reason to believe that the attack would take place
before the larger force could arrive.
An impression got abroad that the Moimted Pohce should
hsave attacked at the same time as the troops, but, whether
they should have done so or not, they could not have moved
without General Middleton's orders, which were to the effect
that they were to hold Prince Albert and not join in the attack.
Besides, it does not seem to be generally known that the com-
mander of the Mounted Police was in such a position at Prince
Albert that he could not know what steps were taken in the east
with regard to sending troops into the North West Territory,
and it was not until April 16, when Messrs. McDowall and
Bedson arrived at Prince Albert by Carrot River, that he was
aware that General Middleton had with him a force of 1200
men. Through those gentlemen, the general informed Colonel
Irvine, over his own signature, that they were sent to com-
municate with him. He stated in the message that he intended
to attack Batoche on April 18 ; he might be delayed until the
19th, and he also put in a proviso that he might attack earlier.
Mr. McDowall stated clearly and positively that General
Middleton's orders were that Colonel Irvine was not to attack,
but to look for " flying half-breeds." The G.O.C. seemed to be
under the impression that the rebels would offer no resistance,
but would fly on the approach of his column.
After Messrs. McDowall and Bedson had consulted with
Colonel Irvine they saw clearly the importance of the main
body of the force remaining at Prince Albert, and they gave
him the impression that they would " inform General Middle-
ton accordingly." They left Prince Albert on April 17 with
the intention of making for Humboldt and joining General
Middleton's column, which they thought would be moving
for Batoche. In consequence of this. Colonel Irvine, on April
19, proceeded towards Batoche with a force of 200 mounted
men for a distance of 12 miles, sending his scouts well to the
front, but he got no information that the G.O.C. was near
Batoche, and, none being forthcoming, he very justly concluded
that there was delay in the previously contemplated advance
of the troops ; ascertaining that none of them were attacking
GENERAL MIDDLETON'S PLANS 209
at Batoche, and receiving on the same night a letter from Prince
Albert to the effect that it was not unlikely that an attack
was contemplated on that place, he very properly decided to
return, a step which subsequent events proved to be a wise
one to take.
Soon after Messrs. McDowall and Bedson had departed, and
when Colonel Irvine had returned with his command to Prince
Albert, he learnt from one of his scouts that General Middleton
was marching on Clarke's Crossing, and on April 30 Scout
Linklater, whom he had previously sent out, returned to
Prince Albert, bringing the following letter from General
Middleton.
Fish Creek, April 26.
Attacked here on the 24th and after a smart fight drove
the enemy back, but lost too many to repeat, so shall make
for Hudson's Bay Ferry, where your barges are. Our loss
was 6 killed, 4 died since, and 43 wounded. Hear the whole
force was opposed to us and believe we have inflicted heavy
loss, and have captured a lot of cattle and horses. Our men
are in good heart, cannot move at once as the wounded must
be sent to the rear. I have ordered Otter to send a regiment
to you, if he can spare it, from Battleford, where all is quiet.
You may expect me at the Ferry about Thursday, or one of
the following days. Have the steamers there to guard the
ferry.
Colonel Irvine had, on his own responsibility, anticipated
the general's wishes by building scows and posting a guard on
the Hudson's Bay Ferry, and on May 3 advised General Middle-
ton that a steamer had left for Hudson's Bay Ferry, South
Branch, and that 4 scows and 4 lifeboats were at the Ferry in
charge of 2 officers and 31 men. Later Colonel Irvine learned
that another change of plans was made and that the other
troops would march to Batoche via Gabriel's Crossing and then
proceed to the Hudson's Bay Ferry.
This period was the most critical for Prince Albert. The
force available for any operations had been much reduced
owing to the number of men employed outside. The settlement
was 5^ miles in length, and its normal population of 700 had
been increased by refugees to more than double that number.
There were large quantities of provisions, many valuable
210 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
buildings and several steamboats, which had been laid up
there for the winter. It would therefore seem reasonable that,
in the event of the troops receiving a check which would cause
delay, there might be an attack made upon the town.
During the whole of the campaign Colonel Irvine's scouts
performed valuable services under their daring and capable
leader, Mr. Thomas Mackay. They were constantly in touch
with General Middleton's force and repeatedly drove back
Rial's scouts. Their presence was so dreaded by Riel that he
threw up strong entrenchments on the left bank of the South
Saskatchewan opposite to Batoche. After the battle at that
place Diehl and Armstrong, scouts sent out by Colonel
Irvine with dispatches to General Middleton, were two of the
three who captured the rebel leader.
The battle of Batoche took place on May ii, and on the
17th of the same month the gallant Prince Albert Volunteers
were disbanded, their services being no longer required. It
will be seen from this short and absolutely accurate account of
the share that Colonel Irvine and his force took in the suppres-
sion of the rebellion of 1885 that he and his little force per-
formed the duty under the direct and positive orders of the
G.O.C. Yet during the whole of the operations the eastern
press teemed with aspersions against Colonel Irvine and his
men ; the newspapers containing these were read in the militia
camp daily by all ranks. The war correspondents were there
who published such stuff as " What is Colonel Irvine doing ?
What are the Mounted Police doing ? Why do they not come
out and attack Riel ? " Attack him 1 with two hundred men,
and leave Prince Albert open to rapine and murder ! Such was
the tenor of many of the articles ; but in spite of the fact that
they were known to headquarters, no effort was made on the part
of the officer responsible for Colonel Irvine's movements to
disabuse the mind of the public, poisoned as it was by the
slanders sent abroad.
CHAPTER XII
Alarm at Calgary — Major General Strange — I join his force — Steele's
scouts — Big Bear's band — We march from Calgary — General
Strange's plans — His way with obstruction — Rev. George Mackay
— Edmonton — The Frog Lake massacre — Fort Pitt's danger — ^The
fort abandoned — ^We follow Big Bear — A brush with the enemy —
The Indians retire — Pursuit — A sharp encounter — An offer to the
Indians — General Middleton's neglect — ^The chance of a life-time
— ^New country — Of&cial ineptitude — The release of the prisoners
— ^The end of the campaign — The commanders' tributes — Unrecog-
nized merit — Red tape — Bull Dog Kelly — A mystery solved —
Trouble with the B.C. authorities — A magisterial squabble —
Colonel Macleod as peacemaker — Mr. Donald Smith drives the
last spike of the C.P.R. — A pleasure trip — Back to the plains.
ON the outbreak of the rebellion and the removal of the
N.W.M.P. from their midst to reinforce Colonel Irvine,
the citizens of Calgary were thrown into a dreadful
state of alarm, and at their request Major General
Strange, who happened to be in the town, organized a troop of
scout cavalry and a home guard for the town. Major Hatton,
an ex-officer of the Canadian militia, organized a cavalry corps,
which was gazetted as the Alberta Mounted Rifles.
Major General Strange, whose ranch adjoined the Blackfeet
reservation, in pursuance of his orders from General Middleton,
proceeded to take command of the District of Alberta. Orders
were sent to Superintendent Cotton, commanding at Fort
Macleod, to make arrangements for its defence. Captain Jack
Stewart, an ex-officer of militia who owned the Stewart ranch,
raised from the cowboys and others in the Macleod country a
mounted corps which was gazetted as the Rocky Mountain
Rangers, to patrol along the border and towards Medicine Hat.
Cotton established dispatch riders at different points between
Fort Macleod and Calgary, and, with his Mounted Police
patrols, kept in constant touch with the Indians on the Blood
and Peigan reserves. Later, at Strange's request, he sent a
211
212 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
field gun and a detachment of Mounted Police, under Inspector
Perry, to join the column which the general organized to
march on Edmonton.
When the organization of this column was commenced the
people were found to be in an entirely defenceless state. Not
only were settlers in the district without arms, but the cowboys
and ranchmen, a class never hitherto without them, had,
though surrounded by reserves of well-armed Indians, relied
on the protection of our small force and the proximity of the
railway.
I arrived at Calgary from the Beaver River early on April ii,
and found the inhabitants in a very excited state. Many ladies
were at the train with their families, on their way east. I was
placed on duty at once, General Strange telegraphing to the
Lieutenant Governor for permission to take me with him in
command of his mounted troops.
On the i2th the 65th Regiment Mount Royal Rifles, French
Canadians from Montreal, arrived by train, under the command
of Lt.-Col. J. A. Ouimet, M.P., with Lt.-Col. Hughes, a staff
officer of the 6th Military District, as second in command.
At the request of Mr. White, our comptroller, I named Mr.
G. H. Johnston as my deputy at the Beaver, and he came to
Calgary for instructions to organize " specials."
My appointment to the command of the cavalry and scouts
of the Alberta Field Force was confirmed, and I was gazetted
major in the Canadian militia. While transport teams were
being organized I was directed to raise a mounted corps, which
the general did me the honour to name Steele's Scouts,
From all sides messages came in imploring protection. The
Indians had risen and destroyed farms in the vicinity of Red
Deer, Beaver Lake, Victoria and Saddle Lake. Big Bear's
band, whose reserve was at Frog Lake, near Fort Pitt, had
massacred nearly all the white men who were employed there,
and those spared, as well as the people at Fort Pitt, were
reported to be in Big Bear's hands. Ermine Skin's and Bob-
tail's bands, whose reserves lay north of Battle River, had
plundered the Hudson's Bay Company's stores and the mis-
sions, but subsequently repented, through the influence of
Father ScoUen, who remained with them. The settlers at Red
GENERAL STRANGE'S FORCE 213
Deer who came in for help were supplied with rifles and escorted
back to their homes.
A few days later the Winnipeg Light Infantry, under Lt.-
Col. W. Osborne Smith, C.M.G., arrived and encamped near
the barracks.
Before we left for the north to restore the settlers to their
homes and bring to justice the Frog Lake murderers, many
leading men offered their services to the general, amongst them
the Rev. John McDougall, who was one of the best scouts in
the west, being as much at home in the canoe, on the trail, or
running wild buffalo as he was in the pulpit. He brought
with him four Mountain Stony scouts, and was gladly accepted,
the general arranging that he should proceed in advance to
Edmonton with his Indians to inform the people there that
succour was coming.
On April 19 my Mounted Police, the scouts, and the right
wing of the 65th, with transport and fifteen days' supplies,
were ready to march. The left wing of the 65th, under Perry,
who had been gazetted major, was to follow with the gun a
few marches behind us. The Winnipeg Light Infantry
was to remain at Calgary until the Alberta Mounted
Rifles, which had some difficulty with its saddlery, was ready
to trek.
On the 20th the first column, under General Strange, pulled
out from Calgary. I was in command of the advance guard,
and my force was small for the work. There were 175 teams
and the rest of the force to protect. Nothing that caution could
dictate was neglected. The start in the morning was like a
circus. The horses, with few exceptions, had seldom been
ridden, and bucked whenever mounted, until two or three
days had gentled them. This little performance interested the
men from Montreal as they gazed at the gyrations of the
cow-puncher soldiers and Mounted Police.
The scouting of the men the whole way and at all times was
excellent and the discipline the very best. The cowboy has
no superior in the world, and in spite of his free life he takes to
the order of military experience as if he were born to it. The
Mounted Police and the scouts were, of course, British sub-
jects, but there were in the ranks several American cow-
214 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
punchers and broncho busters, first-class men, ready for hard
work, good-tempered and obedient.
On the 25th we reached the Red Deer, 90 miles from Cal-
gary. The stream was much swollen and rising rapidly. The
following day the 65th was sent across the river to scout the
dense woods and to cover the passage. The ford was so deep
that the waggon boxes of the transport had to be raised on
the bolsters to prevent the supplies from getting wet, and
several carts were swept away and recovered with difficulty.
At the Blind Man's River, 8 miles further on. General
Strange received a dispatch from the Rev. John McDougall,
who had arrived at Edmonton with his scouts, to the effect
that the place was safe. He approved the general's projected
movement to the eastward along the North Saskatchewan to
restore the settlers to their homes. Many of them had taken
to the woods for refuge from the Indians, and were likely to die
of starvation. This movement had already been thought out,
and it had been ascertained that scows could be built to trans-
port the gun, infantry and supplies down the river. As I had
been over that part of the country before and knew the trails
and the settlements, he called me to his tent to discuss the
route. After further consideration he sent orders to Mr.
McDougall to construct the scows and boats to transport the
troops and supplies to Fort Pitt.
On the evening before we arrived at the Battle River the
Rev. George Mackay, a brother of Mr. Thomas Mackay, of
Prince Albert, came into camp, having ridden 200 miles from
Fort Macleod to join the column and offer his services in any
capacity. Brave as a lion, an excellent horseman, a good shot
and speaking Cree fluently, he was just the man for the cavalry,
to whom the general very kindly attached him as chaplain I
At the Battle River we were joined by Fathers Lacombe and
ScoUen, well known to many of us, who had been busy with the
Indians to induce them to keep the peace. We also had
confirmation of the report that the Indians of Bobtail's and
Ermine Skin's bands had plundered the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany's stores. Those chiefs were with the priests, but the
general refused to shake hands with them ; they had had for
years an unsavoury reputation, and he warned them that on
OBSTRUCTION 215
the conduct of themselves and their bands their future treat-
ment would depend. They were a most forbidding pair, and
their bands the most depraved in the north west. Even in
the days when the buffalo were plentiful the majority of them
preferred to loiter about the posts on the frontier rather than
make an honest livelihood. They were " coffeecoolers " of
the worst type.
We arrived at Edmonton on May i and were met by Major
Griesbach, my old comrade, who was in command at Fort
Saskatchewan, where he had under his protection the whole
of the Beaver Lake refugees. My three brothers, Richard,
Grodfrey and James, were at Edmonton, and were sworn in
as scouts. The Home Guard there did much to calm the
fears of the people from the settlement who, on hearing of the
massacres and murders, had taken refuige in Edmonton, which
at that time was a very small place but of great promise. The
company was disbanded the day after the arrival of General
Strange's column and the men returned to work on their farms
in the vicinity.
On the morning of the 6th I moved east by the old Edmonton-
Pitt-Carlton trail, with no Steele's Scouts under Captain
Oswald, 25 Mounted Police under Lieut. J. A. Coryell, two
companies of the 65th under Captain Prevost, and a large
waggon train of supplies in charge of Mr. John Colman, late
of the N.W.M.P. We were the advance and flank guards of
the river column which was to be moved by scow down the
Saskatchewan.
Before the general left Edmonton he was given a great deal
of unnecessary trouble which caused delay to the advance.
Objections were made to him by a senior officer to the effect
that the construction of the boats was faulty, that the power
of resistance of the flour sacks, the only means available for
the protection of the men in the boats, should be tested, and
finally a request was made to condemn a large proportion of
the ammunition issued to the troops. This sort of thing was
straight obstruction, and was met by General Strange in a
characteristic manner. He ordered a board to assemble and
take the evidence of experienced Hudson's Bay Company
navigators and boat builders, the penetration of the flour sacks
2i6 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
was left to hostile bullets, and those who objected to the quality
of the ammunition were advised to reserve their fire for short
ranges. The boats were reported fit for service, and the troops
held in readiness to embark.
One night the 65th, according to orders, had tied up their
scows for the night and were resting, when one of their sentries
gave the alarm of Indians ! No more was necessary for the
corps. They were under arms in a moment and, led by their
gallant commander, charged up the heights with loud cheers
and swept the prairie with a shower of buUets. Five of my
scouts who were out had to lie down in a deep hollow, where
there was cover for themselves and their horses, until it was
discovered that the sentry's Indians were young poplars
waving in the wind !
The first news of the rising had been received by Inspector
Dickens from Mr. Rae, the Indian agent at Battleford, 90 miles
east of Pitt. It was to the effect that the country was in a
state of rebellion, and that the Indians were much excited, but
that he had hopes that Dickens and sub-agent Quinn would
endeavour to prevent Big Bear and his people from going to
Battleford. On receipt of the report Dickens at once advised
Quinn to come in if he considered that there was serious danger,
and offered to reinforce him if he could not leave. Quinn
replied at once that the Indians at Frog Lake were perfectly
quiet, and that he was confident that he could keep them there
by feeding them well and treating them kindly ; but, as the
presence of the detachment of Mounted Police might excite
them, he would send Corporal Sleigh and party to the fort.
The corporal and his men arrived on April 2 and reported
to Dickens that the white people at Frog Lake had at first
decided that they would go to Fort Pitt, but Quinn and Farm-
Instructor Delaney were determined to remain at their posts,
and the others had made up their minds to stay with them.
Corporal Sleigh at first refused to leave without the white
women, but Quinn insisted that he should leave without them,
and gave the corporal a letter to Dickens, explaining why
the Mounted Police left and asserting that the Indians were
quiet.
Sergeant Martin had been at Onion Lake the same day and
FORT PITT THREATENED 217
found the Indians excited, firing their rifles and yelling, and
they told him that they had been informed that 2,000 soldiers
were coming to kill them, but the sergeant told them to keep
quiet as there was no danger whatever. This had the effect
of calming them for a time. On the 2nd Sergeant Roby, who
had been at Onion Lake, reported to Inspector Dickens that
the Indians were talking of something which had taken place
at Frog Lake, and that Mr. Simpson, of the Hudson's Bay Com-
pany, on his way there with freight, had hurried on there
hoping to be in time to prevent mischief. Inspector Dickens
had redoubled his guard but, although he had the letter of the
agent at Battleford, he had little faith in the rumours of Indian
war talk. Mr. Quinn had promised to send a messenger in
the event of anything serious, but in the afternoon Mr. and Mrs.
Mann with their children came in from Onion Lake, the Indians
there having informed them that all the white people at Frog
Lake had been murdered and that they must fly for their lives,
as the Indians had risen and were going to kill all the whites in
the country.
On receipt of this news preparations were made at Fort
Pitt to receive an attack, the windows and doors of the dwel-
lings and store-houses were barricaded and loop-holes made
in the walls. It would have been impossible, however, to have
held the post in the night time, for it covered so much ground
and had so many combustibles, such as hay and firewood,
that it could have been set on fire at any time. It would have
required at least 200 well-armed men to defend it, but Dickens
prepared to hold out to the last. On April 4 Henry Quinn, a
relative of the agent, arrived at the fort and reported that he
and the remainder of the white people at Frog Lake had been
made prisoners by the Indians and were being taken to camp
when he broke away on hearing them say that all the white
men would be killed.
He was hotly pursued for a considerable distance, and had
with difficulty succeeded in making his escape. The same day
the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Quinney were escorted into Fort Pitt
by four of the Onion Lake Indians, and later, John Saskatche-
wan, a well-known plain-hunter and guide, arrived there with
a letter to Dickens, advising him to proceed to Battleford by
2i8 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
the north trail. This he refused to do as he had not enough
transport and the Indians could easily overtake them travel-
ling slowly, as they would have to do with the women and
children, and if attacked in the open they would have to protect
them and would be worse off than if they were in the Hudson's
Bay post. The civilians were of the same opinion, and, as
matters were getting very serious, Dickens wrote to Battleford,
asking for 50 men, as under the present circumstances it was
impossible to move.
No reply was received to this letter, the bearer having been
intercepted, but for all that there was no excuse for leaving
the people in Fort Pitt in such a terrible plight, Battleford
was perfectly safe and could not only have defended itself but
have spared more than 50 men to assist those in distress. It
was reported later that 50 N.C.O.'s and men had volunteered
to proceed to the relief of Fort Pitt, but were not permitted
to go.
In the meantime Dickens continued to strengthen the post,
and a scow was being built by the carpenters of the Hudson's
Bay Company, when on April 13 a large body of Indians
appeared on the rising ground to the north of the post. They
had with them as prisoners Cameron, Halpin and Dufresne, of
the Hudson's Bay Company. The latter was sent to the
fort with a flag of truce. He brought letters from Mr. Halpin,
in which he stated that Big Bear demanded the surrender of
the arms and ammunition. This offer was, of course, contemp-
tuously refused, and shortly after this Mr. W. J. McLean,
believing the Indians to be a peace party, went out to interview
the chief, and the latter agreed to keep them quiet that night.
But next morning he sent a demand that the Mounted Police
leave the place at once. Dickens refused all overtures and
would not permit the Indians to approach the fort.
Later on in the day Mr. McLean went out again and was
taken prisoner, and constables Cowan and Loasby and Special
Constable Quinn, who had been out to ascertain what had
occurred at Frog Lake, came upon the Indians, who lay between
them and the fort. Young Cowan, a fiery, hot-headed lad,
in charge of the party, decided to ride through them. Quinn
would not agree to this, and turned back to find his way round.
THE FORT ABANDONED 219
Cowan and his horse were shot, and the Indians rushed forward
and drove muskrat spears into the poor fellow's body, tearing
them out again to increase his torture. 1 Loasby's horse was
shot under him, but he got up and ran towards the fort, the
Indians pursuing him for a considerable distance, until he was
struck down wounded, and feigned death, while the redskins
took his belt, bandolier and ammunition. By that time the men
in the fort had opened fire, compelling them to retreat, while
Loasby, under the cover of their rifles, staggered into the fort.
Shortly after this incident darkness came on, and with it a
message from Mr. McLean directing his family to join him.
The remainder of the civilians prepared to depart with them
and surrender to Big Bear, whereupon Dickens, finding that
their minds were made up, decided that it was now his duty to
see to the safety of his men, who had remained at their post
for the protection of the people. He caused the spare arms
to be destroyed, collected the food and ammunition and, under
cover of darkness, embarked his detachment on the scow. Mrs.
McLean did not leave the post until the last man was on board,
knowing that it was unlikely that any of the Indians would
come to the fort until she went to the camp. The party
eventually arrived safely at Battleford.
While these events were transpiring Quinn had gone round
to the Saskatchewan, moved along in the shelter of the cut
bank until the fort was between him and the Indians, and
galloped into it to find to his horror that it was in their posses-
sion. He was seized and would have been put to death, had
he not said that he was a friend of Mr. McLean, who had done
a good turn to the leader when he was in a scrape some years
previously. This saved his life, and he was conducted to the
camp and placed with the prisoners, amongst whom were
Interpreter Pritchard, of the Frog Lake reserve, and the two
white ladies from there, Mrs. Gowanlock and Mrs. Delaney,
whose husbands had been put to death. They owed their
lives to Mr. Pritchard, who, seeing them in the possession
» On our arrival at Fort Pitt we discovered poor Covran's remains ;
the body had been mutilated by scalping and cutting out the heart,
which was found impaled on a stick close by. His horse's remains
were found lying near the corpse.
220 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
of one of the Indians, gave him a couple of horses for them.
This purchase of the ladies is explained by the custom of the
Indians in war, which gives them the right to the captive,
to dispose of him or her as he pleases.
The day after our arrival before the ruins of Fort Pitt, I
sent scouts across the river and to the north and east of our
bivouac. Whitford found a heavy trail in the direction of
Onion Lake, but there was only the trace of a cart and the
print of a white woman's shoe, which had no doubt been
picked up by some squaw and appropriated to her use. In
the forenoon, when looking round for traces of the direction
taken by the hostiles, I found Miss Amelia McLean's first letter
to her mother from St. John's Ladies' College at Winnipeg.
Mrs. McLean had shown it to me in 1880, and I recognized it
at once.
On the afternoon of the 26th Big Bear's trail to the north
was found, and I was directed to proceed in pursuit to locate
the whereabouts of the enemy. I was ready to start when the
general told me that the scouts at headquarters and several
gentlemen who were attached to the force were of the opinion
that the hostiles had crossed the Saskatchewan and gone south
to join Poundmaker, the prominent Cree chief, who had been
on the warpath near Battleford early in the spring. I assured
him that the south side had been carefuUy scouted by my best
men and a cart trail and the track of a woman's shoe were all
that was to be foimd there, and there was no sign of a large
number of the enemy except to the north, where there was a
heavy trail going east. The general agreed, and I trekked
north, taking with me 2 officers and 90 mounted men. About
midnight a Chippeway scout, named Beatty, was brought to
me, saying, " Beatty smells Indians and has cold feet ! "
Soon afterwards I halted on the high bank of the Saskat-
chewan, and to the westward, about 3 mUes away, I saw the
camp fires of General Strange's column. As it was time to
halt, I passed the word to Coryell to keep a sharp look out, and
went down the hill with Sergeant ButHn and Corporal Mc-
Lelland to find a place where I could bivouac without danger
of the horses being stampeded. Captains Oswald and Wright
followed, and I had just found a suitable bivouac and remarked.
A HOT CORNER 221
*' This is just the thing ! " when an Indian, lying in the grass to
my right front, sprang to his feet, fired two shots at us in rapid
succession, and ran across my front towards a horse tied to a tree
to the left. I turned to fire, but Corporal McLelland, close on
my left, was between us, and at 60 yards dropped the red man.
When the Indian fired at me I saw another sitting on his horse
about 30 yards off, and the moment the Indian discharged his
rifle we were in the midst of a yelling, whooping band ; rifles
and pistols cracked, while the lurid remarks of Butlin and
McLelland could be heard a mile away. The hot flashes of the
Winchesters of the Indians almost singed our faces, and several
times we had to pause lest we should shoot one another. This
lasted a minute, when the Indians departed with headlong
speed to the eastward, exchanging shots with my rear party
as they passed by. As no more Indians were to be seen, we
concluded that this was a party that had been watching the
fires of the column with the intention of stampeding the horses
as soon as the camp was in darkness.
Soon after daylight I continued east along the Indian trail.
At one of their bivouacs I counted where 187 camp fires had
quite recently been.
Whitford went to the front, and I had not long to wait for
intelligence. He had not been gone more than half an hour
when I heard Indian yells and saw him, at the head of his
scouts, riding for dear life, followed by a large band of yelling
braves, and more could be seen in the hiUs behind him. I
pushed forward some men to cover his retreat, and extended
the remainder, dismounted, ready to receive them if necessary,
but as soon as the savages caught sight of us they halted at a
respectful distance and galloped away. Whitford explained
that the scouts had kept together to a place at the hills, where
they intended to extend, when he heard a horse stamp as if
annoyed by mosquitoes, and his attention was further attracted
by hearing an Indian say, " Wait, wait, let them come a little
further." Whitford halted and then said in a low tone,
" Shall we fight or fall back ? " and the answer was, " Let us
draw them ; to fight is no good. We were not sent here for
that." Whitford turned at once and came back at the fastest
pace until he got to us, followed by the band of yelling Crees.
222 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Shortly afterwards General Strange appeared with the in-
fantry, a small party of Hatton's corps and the 9-pounder gun.
The infantry had been placed in waggons to save time, and
the 65th Rifles went down the river on the flat boats so as to be
ready to land when required. A company of the regiment had
been left to fortify and protect what remained of Fort Pitt,
and guard the large quantity of stores and camp equipment
left there. On reaching me the waggons were formed into a
corral under Captain Wright ; the drivers, being armed, were
able to take care of the transport. When that was arranged
the march was resumed. About 2 miles further on the scouts
reported the enemy to be holding the wooded hills in front,
and the general extended the force and advanced to the attack.
No sooner was the movement begun than a fine-looking band
of Indians appeared on the summit of a large round butte,
about 1,500 yards distant. They were galloping in a circle to
warn their camp, their excellent horsemanship and wild appear-
ance making a remarkable picture as they were silhouetted
against the blue sky. Directly they were sighted General
Strange gave them a shot from the g-pounder ; the first
fell short, the next swept the butte, the shrapnel tearing up
the grass and gravel a second after the wild horsemen dis-
appeared from the summit. The advance was continued and
the position carried. The 65th, on hearing the firing, left
their boats and dinners behind them and joined us. Owing
to the density of the woods the gun had to keep on the Indian
trail. The scouts were far to the front before dark and could
be seen moving up the slopes of Frenchman's Knoll, which
had changed since I last saw it in 1876 from bare prairie to
fairly thick woods. Scout Patton, one of the Edmonton men,
was very far forward and obtained a good view of the ridge
behind which the Indians were posted. The force was cor-
ralled for the night, and great precautions were taken. My
scouts were out to the front about a mile ; the advanced post,
under Patton, could see the glow of some fires amongst the
trees along the ridge.
At daybreak next morning the woods were again recon-
noitred and the force advanced, the Mounted Police and scouts
in front on foot. About half-past six the enemy's position was
BIG BEAR'S RETREAT 223
located on a thickly-wooded ridge about 600 yards distant
across the valley of the Red Deer. The general ordered me to
turn the enemy's right. The gun came into action with
shrapnel, but soon after I was informed that the force was to
retire out of the woods and I was to cover the movement. The
gun had kept up a rapid fire and no doubt had a good effect,
but no Indians were seen on the ridge. The reason for our
retirement was that a report came in from Hatton's corps to
the effect that the hostiles were turning that flank, and there
appeared to be nothing for it but to get clear of the woods.
The correctness of the report was doubtful. When the force
was clear of the woods it was halted and the situation was dis-
cussed. The general decided that the proper thing to do was
to attack the rifle pits on the right and drive the Indians out,
but before giving any orders he had a talk with two senior
officers, and later summoned me. It was clear that his plan
was not received as cheerfully as it merited, and the force
retired to Fort Pitt.
On the 31st we moved out again and on the following day
we found the rifle pits unoccupied. The position proved,
upon careful examination, to be even stronger than anticipated,
300 rifle pits were counted, 200 along the front and 100 in
reserve. Several were large enough to shelter a dozen men,
and many were proof against shells. There was much plunder,
which could not have been carried off ; a great deal of it
very valuable, furs looted from the Hudson's Bay stores at
Pitt and Frog Lake.
Seven trails were found, which eventually led into two,
and these were followed until at daybreak Big Bear's line
of retreat was discovered. In the afternoon the infantry
were busy collecting the waggons, carts, flour, bacon, tools
and furs which had been left behind. The whole of this
was placed in charge of an officer and party of men, to be
restored to the original owners or credited to them, and it
was estimated that there was many thousands of dollars'
vorth of loot recovered.
In the night the scouts reported that Mr. and Mrs. Quinney,
Messrs. Halpin, Cameron and Dufresne were in the forest,
having been left behind by Big Bear, and Major Dale with a
224 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
few of my scouts brought them into camp. When the Indian
trail was reported to me I had only 20 of the Mounted Police,
20 of my scouts, and 22 of the Alberta Mounted Rifles available ;
but, as it was important to rescue the remainder of the captives
and capture the Frog Lake murderers, I was directed to follow
the hostiles.
We could not wait for either the pack-animals or pack-
saddles. The supply of ammunition was small, but there
was no help for it, as no time was to be lost, and when I was
ready to move I had with me Major Hatton, Capt. Oswald,
Lieut. Coryell and 62 N.C.O.'s and men. Just as I was moving
off the brigade-major ordered Hatton to return at once, and
the poor fellow actually wept and broke his hunting crop to
pieces on the horn of his stock saddle. General Strange
informed me as I moved off that General Middleton had
landed, and would be sure to send his mounted troops in
support.
At lunch time we were in touch with the enemy's scouts.
I pushed forward and charged across an open piece of meadow
that lay between us and the Indians, as there was no way
round. When we were almost across the Indians fired and
wounded one man, but we pushed on gaily. When I was about
50 yards in the woods I heard behind me a fierce war whoop
and turned, expecting to see an Indian, but it was our friend,
Canon Mackay, who, like the majority of western men and
boys brought up among Indians, could utter a war whoop
which would make Sitting Bull turn green with envy 1 His
eyes were blazing as he hurried along uttering his fierce yells.
He was dressed in a pea jacket, felt hat and moccasins, his
pantaloons were tied with strings round the ankles, and he
was obviously full of fight. Further examination of the
woods proved, however, that there had been only a small party
of scouts, and I hurried on in hopes that they had gone into
the forest to the left, so that I could get so far ahead that they
could not give warning to Big Bear before I caught sight of
him.
The next day the enemy were reported in sight. From a
long ridge we saw before us a large and very beautiful lake
with many pretty bays ; a long point jutted out from the
A SHARP ENCOUNTER 225
east side of it, and might be an island ; it was densely wooded
to the water's edge. Along the west shore a dry swamp of
spruce and tamarac extended, and a semicircular range of
lulls, bounding a small prairie below us, came round to where
we lay. The woods near us being dense the trail could not
be seen, but on the side of the lake next the prairie an Indian
lodge stood, and in the ford which separated the point or
island several Indians were crossing. I suspected that they
were a decoy and that there was an ambush along the trail
in the woods below us, but, as the proper thing to do was to ask
the Indians to surrender, I was about to get the canon to call
out in Cree that the war was over, that the remainder of the
Indians and half-breeds were defeated and prisoners, that
as we were a strong force it was useless for them to continue
their retreat, and if they came in only the Indians who had
been ringleaders or concerned in the murder of the whites
would have to stand trial.
The canon had scarcely got ready to hail them when a
party of Indians opened fire upon us, prematurely, I think.
Their fire was a signal for us to attack, and we rushed to the
front with Indian yells and rolled up the ambuscade which
lay along the trail. We drove the Indians out of the swamp
on the right front and across the httle prairie. They posted
themselves under the shelter of the hills opposite to us and
again opened fire, their bullets tearing the bark off the trees
round my trumpeter, Chabot, and myself. Chabot offered
me his rifle to fire at the red men, who seemed to be making
fine practice, but I told him to go ahead as I had something
else to do, and a few minutes later I heard an Indian chief
leading his men with yells of encouragement round the hills
to my left front, and to meet the attack sent the men on my left
up the hill. They went up in fine style, led by Coryell,
Sergeant-Ma j or Fury and Sergeant Macdonell.
On the crest of the hiU Fury was wounded and rolled down
the steep declivity, whereupon the canon, who had been very
forward in using his rifle, ran to his assistance. The remainder,
however, rushed on with spirit and, meeting the Indians in the
forest, pressed them back with a sharp fire to the ford. My
centre men now dashed across the open at the party under the
Q
226 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
hill, driving them out of there ; the whole were then forced
across the ford, and from there kept up a sharp fire. As we
were short of ammunition I deemed it useless to reply, and
ordered " Cease Fire " to sound. Accompanied by the canon,
I ascended the highest hill commanding the ford, hoisted a white
flag and hailed the Indians, who on seeing it ceased fire.
The canon told them what I had intended to say before
the fight commenced. He had a splendid deep voice, and every
word was distinctly heard by the Indians, who hstened atten-
tively, all save one, who kept up a steady fire, causing us
to shift our positions each time he obtained the range ; he was
an exceptional shot and armed with a good rifle. One of the
Mounted Police was standing with his back against a tree. As
he had broad shoulders, the Indian could see them project,
and placed a bullet just behind the centre of his back but,
fortunately, it did not come through.
After hearing what I had to say, the Indians made no reply ;
there seemed to be no one to take the lead. A few called out
that they would not surrender, and in the meantime, as there
was no sign of General Middleton, not even a scout, and more
men would be needed to turn the position by the other side
of the lake, I caused a count to be made and found that I had
only one day's rations and 15 rounds of ammunition per
man. Only two men had been wounded, but their hurts were
very severe. The worst of the situation was that there was
no sign of the promised support which should have been
with me early in the day. No one had been sent to ascertain
what had become of the little band of 65 men sent in pursuit
of 500 desperate and blood-thirsty Indian braves who held in
captivity white men, women and children I
Having called once more upon the Indians to surrender,
without result, I caused the wounded to be carried along in
the best way possible, and withdrew to the top of the ridge
from which I had advanced to the attack. I then sent to
General Middleton my report, which covered every important
point required to enable him to follow the Indians.
As soon as Buthn had gone off with it I left a small party
under a N.C.O. to watch the ford and any move of the Indians,
and fell back a few miles with the wounded men. The party
THE CHANCE OF A LIFETIME 227
on the ridge opened fire several times on people whom they
took to be Indians, but were no doubt mistaken. Later on
I learned that W. J. McLean and Simpson had come forward
to surrender the Indians to me, the fight having demoraUzed
the band. This was one of the chances of a hfetime which one
misses !
I bivouacked in the woods about 3 miles from the lake,
and on June 4 continued the retirement, expecting to meet the
troops at any moment, but none appeared. The next day
Sergeant Buthn returned with the information that he had
delivered my report to General Middleton in person at
two o'clock the day I sent him. He had found the troops a
few miles in the woods and had been questioned by the G.O.C.
as to the trail, but had no message for me 1 The column was
now only 7 or 8 miles from me trying to make pack saddles,
and that remarkable vehicle caUed a travois had also come
into the calculations of the transport officer ; the troops were
mounted and had Gathng guns.
Next morning General Middleton and his A.D.C. appeared,
and I gave full particulars as to the best way to proceed.
The general then ordered me to rejoin General Strange's
columns, but changed his mind and decided to take me with
him.
The force arrived at Loon Lake on the second day, and
halted on the hill which overlooked the scene of the fight.
After examining the ground we crossed to the opposite side
and discovered some newly-made graves, which the general
caused to be opened to ascertain if any of the remains were
those of the captives. There were trails in several directions
from there, one of them led south-east and was no doubt that
of Big Bear's Crees escaping to the United States. From the
camp a good view of the large and beautiful lake was obtained ;
few white men had seen it until Big Bear's band arrived with
their captives. No exploration of that part of the Great Lone
Land had ever been made.
The same afternoon two scouts who had crossed the little
narrows reported that they had seen the dead body of a squaw
who had hanged herself on account of being lame and unable
to keep up with the rest of the people. They stated that there
228 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
was a muskeg on the far side of where she was found, and,
as it was important that it should be examined, I crossed the
narrows.
From there I went on with the scouts to the muskeg they had
reported, which, upon careful examination, I found to be a
swamp with a solid bottom 2 feet below the surface. The
two scouts crossed without any trouble, as the Indian men,
women, captives and children had already done, their trail
being quite distinct. It was quite practicable for the mounted
troops, but not for the Gatlings. There were indications that
the Indians were not very far away.
The remainder of the force crossed the narrows, excepting,
of course, the Gatling guns and a small escort. It has been,
said that the muskeg was impassable, but this statement
is incorrect. It may by some have been considered impractic-
able, but this contention is absurd in the face of the fact
that delicate women and children had been able to traverse
it a few days previously. The staff, however, would not
listen to any representations made by members of the Mounted
Police, nor to the evidence of their own senses, but leaned on
those who had no experience to guide them, with the usual
results.
The official report states that the whereabouts of Big Bear
were still uncertain ! Well might it be, for that wily chieftain
was well on his way to Carlton, where he was captured on
July 2 by Sergeant Smart and another man of the Mounted
Police.
On the afternoon of the 15th General Middleton had a pow-
wow with some of the Chippewayans, who, it is said, went
unwillingly with Big Bear. This was sheer nonsense, mere
romance. Father Le Goff was present. He had done his
best to make his Indians keep the peace, but until they came
under the fire of Strange's rifles they were keen enough to
break the law. After the pow-wow two of them were sent
down the river in search of Big Bear. The next day a pet fox,
said to belong to the McLean family, was found, and one of the
staff, in real earnest, remarked, " Ah, we have something
tangible at last ! " This was the same officer who remarked
to one of the transport officers that he had been conversing
MR. MCLEAN'S ACCOUNT 229
with some of the drivers and had found them to be " quite
intelligent " ! To which that irrepressible joker replied,
" If I find any of them possessed of any such quality, out he
goes ! They have their orders pasted inside the crowns of
their hats, and that is all that is required." Whereupon
he was reported to be mad.
On our return to Fort Pitt I called on Mr. McLean and
asked him about his captivity. He stated that when he went
out the second time from Fort Pitt to Big Bear's camp on the
hill he was detained a prisoner. When Constable Cowan was
murdered, he was covered by the rifle of Wandering Spirit,
the chief of the Frog Lake miscreants, and, on pain of instant
death, compelled to ask his family to leave the fort and join
him, accompanied by the rest of the whites who had taken
refuge there.
Some time after Dickens and his detachment of Mounted
Police had left the post, Big Bear's band, the Wood Crees
and Chippewayans, departed for the position near Frenchman's
Butte and entrenched themselves, and when they saw General
Strange's column arrive at Fort Pitt Big Bear sent out a party
to stampede the horses. This band was joined by 30 more,
and were the same with whom I came in contact when I left
Pitt on Big Bear's trail.
When General Strange attacked the Indians at Frenchman's
Butte there were more than 500 Indian warriors in the rifle
pits. He and the captives were some distance off under
guard. The Indians had the range of all the positions and
kept up a steady fire, until the gunners found the true range
and killed several in the pits. A retreat of the Indians was
the next move, but, with the exception of a few scattered bands,
they went north after Big Bear, taking the McLeans and Simp-
son and Fitzpatrick with them.
After the attack at Loon Lake Big Bear's band broke up,
and the squaws of the Plain Crees threatened to butcher
the captives, but the Wood Crees protected them. The
Plain Indians went south-east, except a few of the murderers,
who went north with the Wood Crees. The latter took the
captives with them, but before any move was made McLean
and Simpson were sent by the Indians to surrender them to
230 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
me, and they went to the ford to hoist the white flag and
proclaim the fact, but when they approached, the fire from
my scouts on the hill was so hot that they could not show
themselves and were forced to retreat into the woods.
On the day following the Wood Crees and their captives
crossed the narrows and muskeg and went on to Beaver River,^
suffering much hardship en route, crossed it and halted about
lo miles further on, not far from Lac des Isles, where they held
several councils. Mr, McLean addressed the Indians through
an interpreter and explained to them that, as long as they
held him and the other captives, the troops would be kept
in the field in pursuit of them, and as it was impossible for
them to make a living they would eventually die of starvation,
and it would be better for them to release himself and his
fellow prisoners at once.
During these councils the Indian women used to go near
enough to hear what was said, and, influenced by Mr. McLean's
remarks to the chiefs, upbraided them for their obstinacy.
Before long all but Dressy Man, the wretch who had taken
the leading part in the murder of Constable Cowan, were
willing to release the captives, and eventually he was persuaded
to let them depart. When this was arranged they left for the
south. At the Beaver River they fortunately met a party of
friendly Indians and were ferried across in their canoes. At
the muskeg, where General Middleton had retired, they found
some tins of canned corned beef which had been left there
by the troops. These were a welcome change from the rancid
pork upon which they had been forced to exist. At Loon
Lake they were met by Mr. Bedson, Mr. Hayter Reed and
George Ham, with supplies of food and clothing, and the trail
from there having dried and been much improved since they
had passed over it, they were soon at Fort Pitt.
The whole of the force except those on the lines of communi-
cation having concentrated at Pitt, there was a little delay
waiting for the boats to take them down the river.
Before the column broke up Major General Strange issued
farewell orders, in which every unit was remembered, and
Major General Middleton in his dispatch stated : "I have
already sent to the Comptroller of the N.W.M.P. the names of
RECOMMENDATIONS AND REWARDS 231
those officers of that corps who came under my personal com-
mand whom I desire to mention as having done excellent
work during the campaign, and to whom my thanks are greatly
due, in Lt.-Col. Herchmer, Major Steele, Major Perry, Inspector
White Eraser."
Major General Strange mentioned me in his dispatches thus :
" Major Steele and his cavalry were the eyes, ears and feelers
of the force, and their spirited pursuit of Big Bear crowned
with success the long and weary march which they had pro-
tected and, to a certain extent, guided. The Rev. John
McDougall and Canon Mackay, from their large and intimate
knowledge of the country, were usefully connected with the
force."
General Strange also recommended me to General Middleton
for the C.M.G. in these words : "I have the honour to submit
for your favourable consideration the name of Major Samuel
Steele, Superintendent of N.W.M. Police, who commanded
the cavalry of the Alberta Field Force under my command
during the late campaign. I need not detail to you the eminent
services he rendered, as already mentioned in my dispatches,
as well as in that forwarded by him when sent forward by me
with my cavalry in pursuit of Big Bear's band, also the details
of organization he carried out in raising scouts under my
command. I beg respectfully to submit that he has earned
the distinction of a C.M.G. , usually bestowed for military
services to the Empire in connection with the Colonies."
It did not matter, however, who was mentioned in dispatches,
no one but the G.O.C. received any reward. He was voted in
parliament the sum of 20,000 dollars and was knighted ; but
there was nothing for General Strange after all his hard work.
He had saved Alberta, had rescued the captives who had been
in Big Bear's hands, not one shot had been fired against the
chief or his murderous tribe and their allies, the Wood Crees,
except by Strange's men, and he should certainly have been
granted the K. C.M.G. It is not too late now, however, and it is
hoped that steps wiU be taken to do him justice
I left Fort Pitt on July 3 and, having been informed that
some of the teamsters who were ahead of me on the route to
Edmonton intended to loot Saddle Lake Indian reserves and
232 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
take the farm implements, I sent Sergeant Parker, of the
Mounted Police, ahead with a party to prevent it. He was in
the nick of time ; many of them had their teams loaded
up with machinery and other articles, which Parker com-
pelled them to restore before they left. This action saved the
government the loss of several thousand dollars' worth of
property. One of my men, however, on the march to Pitt,
had accidentally damaged a set of weighing scales. Of this
the Indian department took due notice, but not of the action
taken to save their property. Such is life !
We arrived in Calgary on the evening of the i8th. The
Mayor and the Council and a large concourse of citizens met
us and presented us with an address of welcome. The recep-
tion was enthusiastic, and everyone did his best to make our
stay agreeable. On the 19th I received a telegram from Mr.
White, congratulating me on being promoted ; Major Perry
also was gazetted, but it was some weeks before any more
names appeared. As soon as my men were paid off, the citizens
of Calgary gave us a banquet and presented me with a valuable
diamond ring.
Shortly afterwards I went to Winnipeg for ten days. A few
days later, on my return from the Winnipeg races to the hotel,
the young constable who was with me came to me in a great
hurry to say that he had seen the ruffian " Bull Dog Kelly "
on the train coming from the races, and he had asked him if I
had a warrant for his arrest. He had replied that he knew of
none, and had scarcely spoken when Kelly jumped off the train
near the station and disappeared.
On hearing this it struck me that Kelly was the man who
had murdered Mr. Baird the year before, and I reported this
to Murray, of the Winnipeg Police, who had been informed by
me of the murder and the large rewards offered for the arrest
of the murderer, and he came to the same conclusion as myself,
that Kelly was the man. Accompanied by Sergeant McRae,
until two years ago chief of the force, Murray went in pursuit
of Kelly. Taking the train to Crookston, Dakota, they found
him in one of the hotels. Stealing cautiously up to his bed-
room they hurled themselves against the door, bursting it open
and securing their man. Had they undertaken the arrest in
BULL DOG KELLY 233
any other way there would have been some shooting ! They
then lodged their prisoner in gaol in Crookston to await an
investigation, and I hurried back to the Rocky Mountains to
have the case worked up. When I arrived there I found that
Dainard, who had known all the time but was afraid to speak,
was now ready to swear that " Bull Dog Kelly "had fired the
fatal shot. What an amount of trouble we should have been
saved had he spoken out at the time !
The evidence was damning and conclusive but, although the
cormnissioner reported in favour of extradition, the authorities
at Washington would not sign the papers, and Kelly was
released, but was again arrested in Minneapolis and brought
before another commissioner, with the same result. The
Attorney General, or his deputy, from Victoria, B.C., was there
watching the case for Canada, but as the proceedings had
already cost many thousands of dollars it was not deemed wise to
do any more. The murdered man was an honourable American
citizen ; the murderer was an American. We had done our
duty according to our traditions of justice, and there was
nothing to be done but abandon the case. Kelly died a violent
death the following year. His right name was McNaughton,
and during the trials he was encouraged by the fact that the
desperado who had inspired the crime was present with a large
amount of money supplied by the criminal class in Chicago
and the members of a secret organization noted for its hatred
of everything British.
I now returned to British Columbia and resumed my duties
as the Dominion commissioner of police. The saloons, gambling
houses and dives for the ruination of the navvies were, as
before, in spite of the Peace Preservation Act, licensed to sell
intoxicants. The government of British Columbia still held
that the province should not be deprived of its revenue through
the enforcement of a Dominion act of parliament, and fees
must be collected, the rum seller take care of himself, the dram
drinker take his chances, regardless of the consequences to his
morals.
The B.C. stipendiary had been after the " specials " em-
ployed by the Dominion when I was away on the prairie, and
made a particular point to designate them as North West
234 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Mounted Police, which he well knew they were not. He cor-
responded regularly with the B.C. papers and did his utmost
to bring discredit upon Mr. Johnston and his men, who had at
best a hard uphill fight against the lawless element, supported
as they were by this mistaken policy of the worthy gold com-
missioner and stipendiary magistrate. Some of the worst
characters on the American continent had congregated in this
place. Road agents and confidence men had to be watched,
and it was marvellous that there were no murders or hold-ups.
To prevent this we had to be constantly on the watch, and the
Mounted Police court was full of cases from 9 a.m. until dark.
Before I arrived an unpleasantness occurred between the
Dominion magistrate and his hard-headed countryman " frae
the borders " through one of the Dominion special constables
having arrested a man in the act of bringing in a cargo of in-
toxicating liquor by pack train. The prisoner complained to
the magistrate of B.C., who at once issued a warrant for the
special, charging him with highway robbery. The B.C. con-
stable, who was deputed to execute it, was himself arrested
for assaulting the constable in the execution of his duty and
sentenced to seven days' imprisonment. The B.C. magistrate
then issued a warrant for the arrest of the Dominion magis-
trate, swore in a large number of specials, and, when he ap-
peared on the streets, had him seized and brought before him
for prehminary hearing and released him on bail for a large
amount. It would not have been safe to have attempted the
arrest in any other way, for the assaulting party would have
found that the stronghold on the hill contained as determined
men as the ancestors of its chief, who, when they were asked in
the midst of their revelry, after one of their famous raids on
the innocent people of Cumberland, the following question,
" Are there nae Christians in this hoose ? " replied, " Na, na,
only Johnstons and Jardines ! " Be that as it may, however,
the arrest was made, the prisoner was bailed, and Colonel
Macleod, fresh from his valuable work in keeping the Blackfeet
Nation quiet during the rebellion, appeared to " clear up the
situation."
When he arrived I called upon him, introduced the two magis-
trates to him, and he sized them up in no time. The accused
THE LAST SPIKE OF THE C.P.R. 235
appeared in court, and eloquent and feeling addresses caused
the disputants to shed tears over the fact that " twa chiels
frae the borders " should have such a "fa' oot." They were
soon reconciled over a glass of hot Scotch and a pipe, and the
gallant and tactful Colonel Macleod departed, well pleased
with the success of his mission.
Soon after peace was restored I was again at the first crossing,
when my friend the sheriff wired me from the Roger's Pass,
" Please arrest for interfering with an officer in the exe-
cution of his duty." I replied : " Report the circumstances
to the non-com. in charge at the summit." I heard no more of
this for at least a month, and then when I met the sheriff
I said : " What about that case of yours at the summit ? "
His eye gleamed with satisfaction and he answered : "It was
just this way. I went into a restaurant and ordered a dozen
hard-boiled eggs. There was a man sitting opposite to me,
and he began to help himself to my eggs. I hit him on the
nose ; we had a desperate fight, and I got him into the wood-
box (a box for fuel) and, would you believe it, he tore the side
out with his teeth ! "
From this time on I was able to utilize the valuable services
of Mr. Johnston, who had done such good work during my
absence. Mr. James Ross had given him a very high character,
and he was very busy in court until the railway was completed.
In November the line was ready for the last spike, and Mr.
James Ross arranged for an excursion to Victoria, B.C. The
principal directors in Canada who could spare the time and
the leading men of the staff arrived from the east by a
special train, passing through Revelstoke on the morning of
November 7, picking up several of us who had the privilege of
proceeding with them. There were two well-filled trains of
excursionists, and when they arrived at the place, Mr. Donald
Smith seized the heavy sledge hammer provided for the occa-
sion and with vigorous strokes drove the spike which united
the great Dominion from ocean to ocean.
Amongst those present were Mr. James Ross, manager of
construction, Mr. W. C. van Home, manager of the C.P.R. ,
Mr. Sandford Fleming, Mr. James A. Dickey, Dominion
government engineer, Mr. John M. Egan, superintendent of
236 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
the lines west of Fort William, Mr. John McTavish, land
commissioner for the company, and many others.
The trains now continued on their way, passing over the last
laid rails at the place which is now named Craigellachie, the
significant motto of the Clan Grant, and speeded on their way
to the Pacific. Jim Dickey and I, after we arrived at Kam-
loops, changed to the private car of the manager of the traffic
on Mr. Onderdonk's section of the line. Dickey knew him
well, which was sufficient to ensure a warm welcome, and the
train rushed along at the rate of 57 miles an hour, roaring in
and out of the numerous tunnels, our short car whirling round
the sharp curves like the tail of a kite, the sensation being such
that when dinner was served Dickey, the manager and I were
the only men in the car who were not suffering from train
sickness. I think this was one of the wildest rides by rail that
any of us had taken, and was, to say the le.ast of it, dangerous,
for had the train left the rails it would have plunged down a
precipice a couple of hundred feet into the wild waters of the
Fraser. The next morning when the train rushed out of one of
the tunnels a hand-car loaded with section men was seen on the
trestle bridge in front ; the navvies jumped off and clung to
the sides of the bridge, in the nick of time to save their lives
and see their car hurled through the air to the torrent below.
Many years have passed since that memorable ride, and
to-day one whirls through the mountains in the most modern
and palatial observation cars, but the recollection of that
journey to the coast on the first train through is far sweeter
to me than any trips taken since. It was the exultant moment
of pioneer work, and we were all pioneers on that excursion.
When we arrived at Burrard Inlet the steamer Olympia was
ready at the dock, and all went on board. She then steamed
round the shore of Cold Harbour and English Bay, soundings
being taken, which proved to be most satisfactory to the
directors, and the location of what is now the fine city of
Vancouver was chosen. The vessel was forthwith headed for
Victoria, where the magnates of the railway were received with
enthusiasm, and a few very pleasant days were spent, all being
delighted with the situation of the city, and of one mind that
a prettier place for the capital of the province could not be
BACK TO THE PLAINS 237
selected. We saw everything, took jaunts round the inlets,
visited the Chinese quarter and attended the theatre, in
which about one thousand Chinese expressed their satisfaction
with the play and music by maintaining solemn silence through-
out.
When it was time to return eastward we boarded the
Olympia and were given a dehghtful trip up the beautiful
Fraser to Yale, where we took the train for Donald. After a
short stay there to put our affairs in order, engineers, con-
tractors and Mounted Pohce left the mountains in two huge
trains.
When our train emerged from the Bow River Pass, and we
again saw before us the magnificent expanse of prairie, with
the beautiful sparkUng Bow meandering to the eastward,
pleasure beamed on every countenance, and was given vent
to in cheers of delight, one stalwart engineer shouting at the
top of his voice, " Hurrah I Civilization at last 1 "
I was very sorry to leave all the kind friends we had made.
The force was popular with all good citizens. Mr. James Ross,
when he bade them farewell, paid my men a high compliment,
and among other things said that they could count on him
as a friend, always ready to do them a good turn. This he
has repeatedly done, and all have appreciated his kindness.
With reference to him personally, I know he was regarded by
the leading contractors as the ablest manager of construction
they had ever known, and his place in Canada will be difficult
to fill.
CHAPTER XIII
The prairies again — Battleford — The trial of the Frog Lake murderers
— ^The new Indian agent — A popular appointment — Church-going
in the force — ^An " offertory " — Our new commissioner — ^The
training of the force — The north west rebellion medals — Farcical
awards — I am transferred to the south west — ^A hard winter — ^The
Chinook at last — ^The Kootenay district — Chief Isadore — Colonel
Baker — Straightforwardness of the Indians — ^The Indian Reserves
Commission — ^The Kootenay character — Discipline among the
Indians — More trouble with Chief Isadore — A satisfactory settle-
ment— Sports — Some good performances — Chief Isadore 's tribute
to the force — Back to Macleod — The commissioner's report —
The work of the force — Its efi&ciency — Prairie fires — " Neck- tie
socials."
IT was getting late in the year when we got back to the
plains. We were not sorry to leave the mountains.
AU seemed to feel free once more ; there were no lofty
peaks to dominate them, to make them feel their
insignificance. The weather was cold with snow on the ground ;
but when we arrived at the South Saskatchewan, 22 miles
from Swift Current, I found the ice too thin to cross with safety.
That we should not be delayed, I had to make a bridge by
placing a layer of hay of the width required, pouring water on
it until it froze, and repeating this until it was thick and
strong.
At the " Sixty Mile Bush," the first point of woods on the
north side of the plain, we met the deputy sheriff, I. W. Gibson,
Rejmolds, Indian agent, and an amateur hangman, the man
who had volunteered to operate upon Big Bear's Indians. He
was a very respectable citizen, but more than wilhng to hang
any of the rebels in revenge for the severe and cruel treatment
he had received at Fort Garry when he was a captive of Kiel,
in 1869-70. These officials had been at Battleford in connec-
tion with the trial and execution of the Frog Lake fiends.
The murderers had been tried by Judge Rouleau and a jury
338
THE NEW INDIAN AGENT 239
of six, found guilty and hanged. We spent the night at the
" Sixty Mile Bush," and two days later were in Battleford
barracks, where all received a hearty welcome.
The force at Battleford consisted of " D " and " K "
divisions, in all about 225 men, under Major Crozier, who had
recently been promoted to assistant commissioner. I was at
once placed in command of " D " division. The majority
of the men had been enlisted during the rebellion to bring the
force up to 1000, double its former strength, and had been
sent hurriedly to Battleford to garrison the place, the Indians,
although disarmed, being stiU in an unsettled state and the
inhabitants nervous. Just before Christmas Crozier left for
Regina, and the command of the Mounted Police in the district
was entrusted to me.
We had to pay constant visits to the Indian reserves. The
red men were in a bad humour. They had no arms but we
had to see that they could not get any, and regular patrols
were kept going amongst them. There was no Indian agent
when I took command, and steps had to be taken to select
one for that important post. After some persuasion the
Venerable Archdeacon John Mackay consented to take the
position. The negotiations were made by and through me. The
clergy of all other denominations were interviewed and the
matter discussed at considerable length, with the fortunate
result that they expressed themselves weU satisfied with the
appointment. It was popular with aU classes and creeds, for
the archdeacon was genial and broadminded, and soon brought
his red charges into a proper frame of mind.
Early in the winter an amusing test of disciphne occurred.
The majority of our men were recruits of less than six months'
service, only partially trained, and I noticed that very few of
them attended their churches. There had been no parades
for the purpose, the parson of the Church of England having
objected to them. Our regulations were very clear on the
subject, but only five men attended the morning serrice of his
church, and they were in the choir, when there should have
been at least 100. I decided that I would not order church
parades if I found all ranks attending the morning services
regularly, and, to make it easy for them, I gave orders that
240 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
there would be no noon stable parade on the Sundays. It was
cold weather, the horses would not drink until late in the
morning and could be fed by the stable orderhes at noon.
I naturally expected something from this arrangement,
and the next Sunday went to church, confident that there
would be a large turn-out. I was disappointed, however, on
seeing that the number had only increased to seven ! This
settled the matter. Orders were given for all hands to parade
and march to their respective places of worship. This filled
one side of the Church of England, but the yoimg fellows
boycotted the plate when it was passed round for the offertory.
After this had occurred several times the parson's church-
warden, the late Mr. Robert Wylde, an ex-member of the force,
made up his mind that they should contribute, and, when the
time came, he proceeded with the plate in his left hand to
take up the collection. On approaching the first of the obstin-
ate troopers he made the motion of pointing a revolver at him
with his right hand as if to hold him up 1 This ended the boy-
cott ; all were on the broad grin, and the civihans of the
congregation were almost convulsed as the men groped in
their pockets for silver.
The rebelHon had left a great many persons, particularly
the loyal half-breeds, in poor circumstances, and I received
orders to select the sufferers from the rebellion, regardless of
the part taken in the " unpleasantness," and give them
something to do to keep the wolf from the door. As new
barracks would have to be built in the spring I obtained
authority to employ the sufferers at hauUng lumber from
Prince Albert, the nearest place where any could be obtained.
The distance by train was about 150 miles, but the men were
very glad to get the work, as it not only provided them and
their famihes with enough to maintain them for the winter,
but left a comfortable margin for food and seed grain for the
following summer.
The resignation of Lt.-Col. Irvine, our commissioner, came
as a great shock to all who knew him. He was a great favourite
throughout the west, a hard-working, conscientious officer
who had served his country faithfully for many years. He
was still in the prime of life, and for my part I could see no
A FIRST-CLASS CORPS 241
reason why he should retire, particularly after the good work
that he had done during the rebellion.
He was succeeded in the command of the force by Lt.-Col.
Herchmer, whose hnes fell in much more pleasant places than
those of any of his predecessors. He found the force doubled
in strength, the Canadian Pacific Railway completed ; and the
rebellion had taught the people that there must be no penny-
wise policy after this. He had a well trained and highly dis-
ciphned corps to carry out the duties assigned to it, and was
able to do much for the benefit of the settlers and others who
required advice or protection.
In the spring of 1886 the settlers who had taken refuge in
Battleford on the outbreak of the rebeUion and had remained
there during the winter were escorted to their homes, and
from that time on they were frequently visited and reports
were made of their situation. Complaints were attended to
at once. I also introduced mileage returns of the distances
travelled by our horses on duty, a system which was afterwards
adopted throughout the force, and gave a perfect knowledge
of the work done. These visits to the settlers restored their
confidence and were kept up throughout the country until
the people became so numerous that it would be impossible
to carry it on without a large increase in the force.
During April I received the new Mounted Infantry book
with orders to introduce it at once. It was very unpopular,
a wretched substitute for our first-class single rank drill,
which was good enough for Stuart and Sheridan. When we
had adapted it to suit our purposes the father of the work
would not have recognized his child. It could not have been
intended for a corps of first-class horsemen, and was superseded
ere long to suit circumstances. When spring opened the
recruits of the past year were put through a long and useful
course of training, and, as no one in the N.W.M.P. would be
promoted unless he were thoroughly trained in all exercises,
I kept them at it until there was no part of it that they could
not do well. The divisions at squadron and regimental drill
could take their high jumps in hne or column of troops. They
could swim their horses across any river with ease, and find
their way either in winter or summer without guide or compass
R
242 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
to any place for hundreds of miles round. Mounted sports
of every kind, tent-pegging, etc., were encouraged and well
performed.
In June the medals for the Battleford Rifles came and were
presented to them in the town, and I paraded my men in review
order, dismounted, to be present to do them honour. The
company had behaved well during the rebellion and deserved
all we could give them. The N.W.M.P. had not yet received
medals, and, when the gift was approved, it was delayed until
1888, three years after the war ! Even then only those who
had been in an engagement were permitted to receive them.
Scouting parties, in which men of the corps were under fire
and several killed, were dealt with as if they had not been in
action ! The mihtary officers and men who had served in any
capacity in connection with the campaign very justly received
medals within the year, and why the N.W.M.P., who held
important posts, kept the Blackfeet in check, and prevented
sympathizers in the United States from crossing the inter-
national boundary, should have been deprived of the medal it
is difficult to understand.
Towards the end of August I was reinforced, and in September
my division was transferred to the south west. My orders
were to march on September i for Fort Macleod, 365 miles
across the north west part of the Great Plain. Our route was
trackless and, as the season was very dry, water was hard to
find. We arrived at Fort Macleod on the thirteenth day from
Battleford, and encamped on the banks of Willow Creek, going
into barracks next morning with every horse on the bit and
not a sign of the march on any of them.
The official records of the winter of 1886-7 proved it to be
the coldest that we had experienced. The thermometer at
the barracks indicated 50 below zero ; snow covered the
ground to the depth of 3-^- feet ; the chinook seldom visited us,
and then only long enough to thaw the surface and was followed
by severe frost, which formed a hard crust on the snow, through
which the cattle could not penetrate to the grass. The ranchers,
with a few exceptions, had trusted to luck and failed to stack
enough hay to tide them over the severe weather ; the horses
being able to paw did, as usual, very well, but the losses of
A DETESTABLE LAW 243
the cattlemen were very severe, and at one time it appeared
as if all their stock would die of starvation.
On January 7, the barracks at Lethbridge being ready for
occupation, I transferred my headquarters there, and eventu-
ally had the whole of the division with me. The new buildings
were the best and most comfortable that I had occupied for
many a day. As soon as I had time to look about me I noticed
that a great change had come over that part of the territory
since the days when the buffalo roamed. One would never
have believed that only eight or nine years had elapsed since
the vast herds were grazing over the spot on which 2,000 in-
habitants of the town were making things lively, or that
seventeen years previously a battle had been fought between
wild Indians on the opposite bank of the river. There was a
narrow gauge railroad connecting the town with Dunmore
junction on the C.P.R., no miles east. The great coal deposits
had been opened, and trains of cars pulled out daily with
several hundred tons, and other signs of civilization were to be
seen on all sides. In spite of all this, its newness made the sur-
roundings unattractive. The people were kindly and hospit-
able, however, and many of the pioneers were there ; but it
was neither one thing nor the other, for it had none of the
charms of the wilderness nor yet of the great city.
We had the detestable prohibitory liquor law to enforce, an
insult to a free people. Our powers under it were so great, in
fact so outrageous, that no self-respecting member of the corps,
unless directly ordered, cared to exert them to the full extent.
We were expected, on the slightest grounds of suspicion, to
enter any habitation without a warrant, at any hour of the day
or night, and search for intoxicants ; no privacy need be
respected. Yet, owing to the pressure of a lot of fanatics who
neither knew nor cared to understand the situation, parlia-
ment would not repeal the law and let the white people speak
for themselves. This state of affairs continued for some years,
despite the fact that the judges quashed nearly every con-
viction which was brought before them on appeal.
The winter continued severe until March ; trains on the
narrow gauge railway, irreverently nicknamed " The Turkey
Trail " by the driver of the Macleod coach, were often snowed
244 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
up for several days at a stretch, and had to be dug out
by gangs of men or snow ploughs. This did not cause
any cessation of our work, however. The old routine or hard
winter trips went on all the same throughout the force all
over the territory, but the settlers on the ranches in stormy
weather remained in their homes in comparative comfort,
whUe the Mounted Police and cowpunchers were out in all
weathers.
In Lethbridge there had as yet been no time to build curling
or skating rinks, but the citizens enjoyed their spare evenings
all the same. Hospitality reigned supreme, and consisted
mostly of card parties and dances ; the latter were public.
Young and old went in for a good time, and were soon well
acquainted. The picturesque caller-off, such as we had at
Macleod and other parts of the territory, was not so much in
evidence, however ; quadrilles were fewer and round dances
the favourites.
At last the country was visited by a welcome chinook,
which saved the stockmen from much loss. It was the first of
any consequence that winter, all others had lasted but a short
time, with the result that the snow was not melted and more
harm than good had followed. This one was so remarkable
that it is worth while to describe it.
One night during the first week in March I was one of a
whist party at the quarters of Mr. C. A. McGrath and Dr.
Mewbum. The thermometer indicated 30 below zero, and the
fires had to be kept going until the stove was almost red hot.
At eleven o'clock the temperature began to rise, and at mid-
night it had gone up 75, and continued rising. I left about
that time and, as I went up the street, going east, I heard the
roaring of the chinook as it surged from the mountains. It
finally overtook me, accompanied by clouds of drifting snow,
sending me ahead of it to the barracks, the blizzard so thick
that I could scarcely see the lights of the guard-room. Next
morning every particle of snow was gone and every hollow
was full of water. By noon the wind had dried all shallow pools,
and by six o'clock in the evening the dust was flying along the
trails over many thousands of square miles. Every large
coulee was a huge river, caused by the enormous quantity of
TROUBLE WITH THE KOOTENAYS 245
melted snow. The wind had the velocity of a hurricane, and
continued for many days.
On May 20 I received orders to hold myself in readiness to
proceed to Kootenay district, taking with me Inspectors Wood
and Huot and 75 N.C.O.'s and constables of my division.
One officer and the remainder of my men were to be left in the
Lethbridge district and transferred to Supt. Macdonnell's
division, which had been ordered south from Battleford to
relieve me.
The duty for which we were detailed was to restore order
amongst the Indians of the Kootenay district, then almost
inaccessible, there being no way in during the winter, except
on snowshoes, and during the summer only by pack trail. The
settlers in the district were very few in number and uneasy on
account of Chief Isadore, of .the Kootenay tribe, having, with
part of his band, broken open the gaol at Wild Horse Creek, an
old mining camp, and released Kapula, one of their men who
had been arrested, charged with the murder, in 1884, of two
white placer miners at Deadman's Creek on the Wild Horse-
Golden trail. Isadore then ordered Provincial Constable
Anderson, who had made the arrest, and the Hon. F. Aylmer
out of the district, forbidding them to return. The latter was
a prominent engineer and land surveyor, who had been at
work in pursuit of his profession.
This action caused the scattered settlers and prospectors much
alarm, and they applied to the authorities for help. Isadore
and his Indians had other grievances, one of which was the
sale of the lands on Joseph Prairie, a beautiful spot in the foot-
hills, 12 miles west of Galbraith's Ferry, which had been
occupied by them and their progenitors for several generations
past. It had been purchased from the government of British
Columbia by GaJbraith Bros., who afterwards sold it to Colonel
James Baker, late of the British army, a brother of Sir Samuel
and Valentine Baker Pasha. The Galbraiths had left the
Indians in undisturbed possession of their land, and there was
no trouble until some time after the sale, when Colonel Baker
ordered Isadore to vacate it. This he flatly refused to do,
and there was no organized power in British Columbia at the
time to enforce his compliance \\ith the colonel's wishes.
246 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
These difficulties were brought to the notice of the govern-
ment, and in January, 1887, Lt.-Col. Herchmer was sent
into the district to investigate and report upon the state of
affairs. He went in from the west through the Moyea Pass
on snowshoes, and obtained a great deal of useful information
from the leading people.
The Indians of that region were the Shuswaps, of the Upper
Columbia Lakes, and the Upper and Lower Kootenays. The
former lived on their reserve under their quiet chief Mathias.
The Upper Kootenays, a fine class of Indian of good physique,
objected to living on the reserves set aside for them ; they
preferred to roam the valleys and mountains at will, as they
had always done, hunting, fishing, raising horses and cattle,
of which they had a large number, as they were horse Indians,
and used to cross the Rocky Mountains in the days of the
buffalo to hunt and trade. The Lower Kootenay Indians
were located along that river from where it re-entered Canada
to its outlet on the Columbia, but they recognized no boundary
line and mixed with their relatives in the United States. They
had very few horses or cattle and were known as canoe Indians,
who lived by fishing and trapping.
Before it was quite decided that the N.W.M.P. should be
employed in the Kootenay district, a commission, consisting
of A. W. Vowell, Esq., gold commissioner and stipendiary
magistrate of the district. Dr. Powell, general superintendent
of Indians for British Columbia, and Lt.-Col. Herchmer,
visited Wild Horse Creek in June. After several interviews
with Isadore, they induced him to hand over Kapula to the
authorities. Lt.-Col. Herchmer ascertained also from other
sources that the Kootenays had several hundred fighting
men well armed and supplied with ammunition. They had
also 500 head of cattle and 2,000 horses of very good quality.
On the loth I received orders to entrain at once on the
narrow gauge railway and proceed to Swift Current, on
account of alarming rumours which had been circulated from
there. The cars being very small, we had to take the waggons
apart to load. When I was ready to depart the citizens came
to see us off and presented us with an address.
We detrained at Dunmore next morning and transferred
THE PASSING OF THE BUFFALO 247
to the C.P.R., which brought us to Swift Current early on
the 13th, and on the 14th I met Lt.-Col. Herchmer on the
train there, and was informed that reports had been made of
an intended rising of the half-breeds, and that patrols would
have to go out. I sent them north and south, made personal
investigation, and sooft learned that rumours of a rising had
emanated from the fertile brains of some of the merchants
who were anxious to see a division of the N.W.M.P. stationed
at Swift Current. I had found considerable numbers of poor
half-breeds, the once happy plain-hunters, making a precarious
livelihood by collecting buffalo bones for the sugar refineries
and bone dust factories of the United States, but they were
perfectly harmless and would never have thought of rebellion
even if suggested to them.
Persons must often wonder why there are so few buffalo
bones on the plains where those animals roamed in such vast
numbers. The answer is that they have been gathered ; many
thousands of tons have been collected and sent away, leaving
very few to tell the traveller that the bison were once in millions
on our prairies. There are now some herds in the Peace River
country under the protection of our Mounted Police, and
several hundreds, which are rapidly increasing, were purchased
some years ago by the government of the Dominion. These,
if properly cared for, will increase so rapidly that many people
now living may see thousands distributed throughout the
Donunion. The possibility of this should not be lost sight of
by those responsible for their preservation.
As soon as I had reported the true state of affairs I was
ordered to Regina, where I arrived on the 22nd. After a short
stay to talk over Kootenay matters with the commissioner, I
returned to Swift Current and left with my division for Golden,
B.C. It was made up to full strength at Dunmore by men and
horses from Lethbridge, and I arrived at Golden on the 28th
and went into camp on the south bank of the Kicking Horse
The next day Lt.-Col. Herchmer came to see us and left by the
east-bound train in the evening.
We left again on July 18, and on the 30th we arrived at Six
Mile Creek, where it had been suggested that I should make
my permanent camp. A careful examination of the locality.
248 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
however, proved it to be in every way unsuitable. I inspected
the vicinity of Four Mile Creek with the same result. The
same afternoon Colonel Baker called upon me to welcome the
division to the district. On seeing the situation he expressed
surprise that it had been chosen as a site for our quarters
when there were so many excellent places to be found round
Galbraith's Ferry and south on Fenwick's Flat on the
Kootenay River, 20 miles east of Six Mile Creek.
Next day, according to our arrangement, Huot and I accom-
panied Fenwick to Galbraith's, where we found him, his sister
and brother-in-law, Mr. and Mrs. Clark, at home, and were
heartily welcomed. We crossed Wild Horse Creek, at that
time much disturbed by Dave Griffith's hydraulic giant, which
was at work about 5 miles up stream at the Old Town, as the
old mining camp was called, and went to inspect Fenwick's
Flat, but one glance showed that it would not answer our
purpose.
I asked Galbraith for permission to build on a point of land
which was in the angle formed by the confluence of the Wild
Horse Creek and the Kootenay. He very kindly gave me a
lease of the ground for as long as we should require it for the
modest sum of one dollar. The spot was an ideal one. It
commanded the trails to Tobacco Plains, the Crow's Nest Pass,
Moyea, and the Columbia Lakes, and was the most central
situation from which to communicate with the Indians and
give protection to the whites.
I returned to Six Mile Creek the same evening, and next
morning, Monday, August i, moved the division down to the
ferry. Before dismounting the men, I clearly explained to
them on parade the duty which we had to perform and the line
of conduct which we should pursue in our relations with both
whites and Indians, so as to gain their respect and confidence.
After our camp was pitched all hands were told off to their
tasks, one party cutting and hauhng logs for our winter
quarters. I arranged for a summer mail service by dispatch
riders to Sam's Landing, where it would meet the boat, and
purchased a pack train of 24 fine ponies and three Kayuse,
with aparejos and other equipment complete. This train
proved to be a good investment, earning its value every
CHIEF ISADORE 249
month, costing nothing for forage, and teaching many men
the art of packing.
As soon as I had got settled in camp I sent for Isadore, and
directed him to bring in Kapula and another Indian named
Isadore who was suspected of being an accomphce.
fi' Five days later they were brought before me at Wild Horse
Creek lock-up, where they remained for eight days to give the
witnesses for the prosecution time to appear. There was not,
however, sufficient evidence to send them to trial, and they
were accordingly dismissed, and I sent them home with food
for the journey. Isadore was present during the whole of the
proceedings and followed the evidence with keen interest. I
was pleased with the bearing of the Indians, both accused and
witnesses. They showed great intelligence, and it was clear
that they knew nothing of the murder, which was probably
committed by some loose character frequenting the trails.
After the investigation Isadore came to see me. He had
been informed by the white men and Chinese that we had
come to Kootenay with hostile intentions towards the Indians.
I told him, however, that we were in the district to maintain
the laws of the Great Mother, and that both whites and Indians
would receive just treatment and would be equally severely
pimished if they deserved it. The effect of this interview was
a marked improvement in the demeanour of the Indians.
With few exceptions, however, the whites remained in fear of
them for some months.
A great change was now coming over the Kootenay district.
A waggon-road was under construction from Golden. Patrols
were sent out and travellers, assured of protection, visited the
district. The work of building the barracks proceeded, and
soon we had an excellent camp. Meat and vegetables were
purchased from the Indians, and a new era of confidence
spread over the place.
On September 22 three commissioners, the Hon. Mr. Vernon,
minister of lands and works in the province. Dr. Powell, and Mr.
O'ReiUy, superintendent of Indian reserves and lands for
British Columbia, came into the district to make an inspection
of the Indian reserves and. 11 necessary, allot more land. The
majority of the Indians, however, were away at the time, and
250 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
the commissioners were unable to meet them as they could
not wait. I was instructed to acquaint Isadore and his Indians
with their decision.
The part of Joseph Prairie occupied by the chief had to be
restored to Colonel Baker and, as I expected, Isadore objected,
saying that he had occupied the land before the whites came.
I told him that Dr. Powell would be responsible in full for the
payment of his claim for improvements. He replied that he
would vacate the land only if he were paid at once. On my
telling him that this was a reflection upon the word of the com-
missioners, he launched forth into an eloquent account of the
wrongs of his people, and I could get from him no direct
answer. Eventually I persuaded him to appoint an arbitrator,
which we accordingly did, and the matter was more or less
amicably settled. We on our part dug him an irrigation ditch,
and later an industrial school was opened, and now every
Kootenay can read and write, and many of them have learned
trades under the supervision of the Indian agents and their
missionary at St. Eugene.
During the whole time, over 12 months, that we were in
Kootenay district, there was not a case of theft nor one of
drunkenness brought to our notice. Crime was rare amongst
the Indians, and it was the opinion of the best whites that the
Kootenays were very good. They often packed large quantities
of liquor into the district for white merchants and carried
whisky from the stores for white men, but none of them were
known to meddle with any that was placed in their charge,
and Isadore was the most influential chief I have known.
Crowfoot, the Blackfoot chief, or Red Crow, dare not, in the
height of their power, have exercised the discipline that Isadore
did.
"When Christmas came the Indians, as was their custom, rode
in a body to St. Eugene mission, where they took up their
quarters in their log houses, and for a whole week attended
the church services. In the intervals, Isadore and his four
sheriffs seized all who had been guilty of any offence, such as
gambling, drunkenness or theft. They were tied down on a
robe, hands and feet secured by rawhide thongs to stakes
placed in the ground, and soundly flogged, regardless of age
COLONEL BAKER AND THE INDIANS 251
or sex. By some means or other the chief knew the culprits,
but, in spite of that fact, and the consequences of their folly,
they never failed to appear at the church to take their medicine.
At Easter the same ceremonies were followed, when they
assembled to perform the Easter duty.
In the spring Messrs. McVittie, land surveyors and engineers,
surveyed the Indian reserves, and while they were at work
Isadore complained that the reserves were too small and that
he had been promised larger ones. There was no way of dis-
proving this statement ; no treaty had been made as in the
North West Territory ; no records of what he had been pro-
mised were recorded with his signature upon them, so that
there was nothing for it but to induce him to be satisfied.
One thing was certain, the Indian agent was an upright and
talented man, who would, if anything, be too good to the
Indians, and he was ably supported by Father Cocola, the
missionary who had reheved Father Fouquet, in charge of St.
Eugene. He was a Corsican of high family, and did much to
create a good feeling between the Indians and whites.
The work on the irrigation ditch was commenced in May,
the industrial school was under construction, irrigation was
carried out on the gardens near the mission, and everything
looked rosy with regard to the Indians, when more food for
annoyance was found. Colonel Baker, who had been in Victoria
all winter at his legislative duties, returned on May 24 and found
several newly-constructed camps and corrals on the land which
had been vacated by Chief Isadore, and informed me that the
Indians had been trespassing.
As soon as I heard of it I arranged for Inspector Wood to
proceed there with the interpreter. They saw the sheds and
corrals which had been built, and the Indians were ordered
to come to barracks and explain to me the reasons for the
trespass. They arrived the same evening and stated that Mr.
Hyde Baker had given them permission to stay there for the
summer, and I received a letter from the colonel to the effect
that he did not like to be hard on the Indians, and that they
might stay there for the year. I informed them of his wishes,
and they went away, apparently satisfied, but it was evident
that they were under the orders of their chief and would not
252 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
have moved without his permission except by force. This did
not end the matter, for on the 29th Colonel Baker complained
that Chief Isadore, who had been absent when Wood visited
the Indian camp, had been insolent to him when he volunteered
to show him the boundaries of his estate, and accused him of
taking all the land in the country. As it appeared to me that
serious trouble might result, I requested Chief Isadore to
come to the post and asked Colonel Baker to come also,
so that the matter could be cleared up. They arrived on
the 31st and met in the office of Mr, Michael PhiUips, the
Indian agent. I had wanted him to settle the whole matter,
but he refused, so I had to take it up myself.
Colonel Baker made a clear statement of what had occurred,
and I demanded from the chief an explanation of his conduct.
He admitted having been insolent to the colonel, but that he
meant no harm. That gentleman had appeared angry and had
ordered him to leave in a couple of days. This was merely an
excuse on the part of the chief, who knew well that he had
provoked the colonel by his language.
I warned the chief that his conduct would lead him and his
tribe into trouble if persisted in. Colonel Baker, I said, was
one of their best friends, and by acting as he did the chief was
going contrary to the wishes of the Great Mother, whose desire
was that her children of all colours should live together in peace.
When I had finished speaking Isadore arose and shook hands
with Colonel Baker, saying that he would never again
trespass on his land, a promise which has been faithfully
kept.
On June 16 1 received definite orders to move to Fort Macleod
in July. The training was completed before the end of June,
and I arranged to have our annual sports at Four Mile Creek,
and invited all the inhabitants of the district, white and red, to
take part in them, with the object of enhancing the friendly
feeling which was growing between the white people and the
Indians. A large subscription list for prizes and refreshments
was made up amongst us, and Mr. Galbraith put his name
down for a large amount. Marquees were pitched under the
trees, and an ample supply of food and refreshments provided
so that no one need go home hungry, and anyone who came a
INDIAN ATHLETES 253
long distance and wished to rest in camp for the night was
welcome to do so.
The sports began on July 2, and I opened them just before
noon by a march past Colonel Baker, so as to impress Isadore.
The colonel did not care to do it but, as I felt that it would
place him in an important position with the Indians, he con-
sented, and all of the movements of a cavalry squad were per-
formed before him, at all paces, and the whole of the visitors
joined the Mounted Police in three hearty cheers for the Queen.
After luncheon the sports commenced, whites and Indians taking
part in all events. Colonel Baker was appointed referee, Mr.
Galbraith and Mr. Norris, collector of customs, the judges, and
I acted as starter. The Indians proved themselves to be very
athletic and entered heartily into the sports. In the sprinting
our men were first and the redskins a close second. At the
long distances the latter shone, and at wrestling on horseback
they surpassed an5rthing I have yet seen. Our men did not
compete, as it would not have been wise on account of the
position they occupied in the country ; a few of the civilians
did, but though they were first-class horsemen they were
hurled from their saddles by the Indians, whose powerful
limbs gripped their horses as if in a vice. In the mile race an
Indian won on a buckskin, which traversed the course in one
minute and fifty seconds, timed by two stop watches, remark-
able speed for a pony. I weighed the rider, Maiyuke, after
the race as he stood in his moccasins, the Indian tipping the
scale at 197 pounds 1
The sports were a great success, everyone was pleased, and
in the evening Isadore assembled his Indians and came to say
farewell at the head of his tribe. I received him on some rising
ground, accompanied by Colonel Baker, Mr. Galbraith, Mr.
Norris and other leading white men. The chief addressed me
on behalf of himself and his people, speaking in the highest
terms of the manly and moral behaviour of the men of the
division, and adding that when we came into the district the
Indians did not know us, and very naturally were in doubt,
but aU had changed, and he hoped that when we returned to
the North West Territory we would look back with kind feelings
towards them. When we arrived the white men and Indians
254 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
in the district had mutual distrust, but that had disappeared,
never to return, chiefly owing to the good advice given to the
Indians by the officers of the force and the kindly and honour-
able behaviour of the men. He added that if in future there
were any cause for complaint, instead of taking the law into their
own hands, they would visit Fort Macleod to obtain advice
from the Great Mother's red-coats.
After the pow-wow Isadore and his tribe, men, women and
children, filed past me, shaking hands in farewell. This was
the last of the Indian question in Kootenay, but on July 5
I received a letter from Mr. Michael Phillips to the effect that
there was some danger of the American Indians of the Tobacco
Plains, U.S.A., causing trouble amongst ours, who objected
to their presence, as it was reported that the United States
government intended to remove them from their reservations
on account of murders which had been committed by them the
previous autumn. On receipt of the letter I cancelled the
order for the march out of Kootenay and requested Mr.
Phillips to accompany Inspector Wood to the scene and, if
necessary, to cross the boundary line and visit the United
States' officers. They made a fast ride and found that there
was nothing in it. Some of the American Indians had murdered
three white men and had been lynched by the friends of the
victims, but the remainder were not to be moved off their
reserves.
On August 7 we started for Fort Macleod. We went by the
Crow's Nest Pass, and, in my report to the commissioner on
the doings of the year, I laid particular stress upon the value
of the coal lands in the pass, its suitability as a railway
route, and the lightness of the work in comparison with that
of the Kicking Horse Pass. Everything I had seen I described
as clearly as possible, and what I stated has since been proved
to be correct. The great coal lands, remarkable for their
extent and value, have been developed, employing thousands
of men, mostly foreigners, who make large wages and strike
on the slightest excuse or by command of foreigners, regard-
less of the suffering of the British subjects who people the
Dominion. Such a state of affairs should not be permitted.
The Canadians own the coal lands and should see that with
THE CONDITION OF THE FORCE 255
such an enormous area, larger than the British Isles, they
should not be forced, on account of those strikes, to turn to
the United States coal miners for relief.
The commissioner in his report for that year stated :
Having reported upon all which I consider interesting to
you, I will specially call your attention to the extremely able
manner in which Supt. Steele managed matters in the Kootenay
district, B.C., and which I think will be found to have a lasting
impression on the Indians of that country, and I propose with
your permission, as soon as the Crow's Nest Pass is clear of
snow, next June, to send a patrol into Kootenay for a few
weeks. The satisfactory passage of " D " division through
that part of the north west reflects the greatest credit upon
Supt. Steele and all ranks of his command, and my inspection
of that division, a short time after their arrival at Macleod,
gave me the most intense satisfaction.
He added, concerning the whole of the N.W.M.P. :
The force is well drilled, but from the numerous and different
avocations in which the men are employed, although individu-
ally drilled men, they naturally require some days together
before they are in a condition to do justice to themselves on
parade. The general public are unaware of our multifarious
duties and, when we make mistakes as police proper, they
make no allowance for our qualifications. I may be allowed
to name a few of the different things we do for ourselves
outside of ordinary duties and patrols. We are trained
soldiers, both mounted and dismounted, and every division
understands its drill ; we do our own carpenter work, painting,
alterations of clothing, blacksmithing, most of our freighting
and teaming, plough when required, extinguish prairie fires,
act as customs and quarantine officers, do most of our waggon
repairing, mend all and make a great deal of our saddlery and
harness, act as gaolers and keepers of the insane for weeks
at a stretch, and there is not a division that cannot go into
any country and erect complete barracks either of logs or
frame. " D " division, under Supt. Steele, erected first-class
barracks at Kootenay, B.C., last year, the division being
completely housed before winter set in. In physique we are
second to no force in existence ; our men are well set up, young,
active, good-looking, stout and tall, and we have very few men
256 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
who cannot ride day in and day out for 50 miles. Only first-
class men can stand 5 years in the force.
After the inspection, the division was mentioned in General
Orders, and our comptroller informed me later that Sir John
A. Macdonald, G.C.B., Premier of the Dominion and Super-
intendent General of Indian affairs, was well pleased with my
report of the work done in the Kootenay district, and of the
Crow's Nest Pass.
On December 8, 1888, I was placed in command of the
Macleod district, one of the most attractive, interesting and
romantic in the territory, and the only one, except head-
quarters, containing two divisions, squadrons in a military
sense. Wood and Macdonnell commanded them. Both were
hard-working, loyal officers, great favourites throughout the
country, and better comrades could not be desired. Each
division was organized into four sub-divisions, which were
equivalent to troops, the district into four sub-districts, com-
manded by inspectors, the sub-district into sections in charge
of a N.C.O. or senior constable. The section contained within
its area several townships, 6 miles square. Lists were kept
of the settlers, all of whom were visited by patrols, to ascertain
if they had any complaints. Each post had the necessary
drill, law and brand books, and the men were catechized
monthly as to their knowledge of their duties and tested at
their driU.
The increase of the force in 1885 had been a good thing, for
we were able to keep a watch on the criminal element in a way
which was impossible with a smaller force. At the present
time, when large numbers of people are pouring into the coun-
try, it is as important as in the wildest and most unsettled days
to give in every part of our western territories perfect protection
for settlers. They are entitled to it, but no undisciplined, ill-
trained force can provide it. The " gunman " laughs at such,
but there is terror in his heart when he finds that the men of
a well-disciplined force with good traditions are on his trail.
No man in such a force will hesitate to risk his life ; discipline,
self-respect and esprit de corps compel him to face numbers
without hesitation.
In the eighties and nineties the settlers were fewer and had
TRAINING AND EFFICIENCY 257
no near neighbours, which made the visits of our patrols
possible and important. Each settler was visited by the
Mounted Police, and signed the patrol slip, with remarks
thereon as to whether he or she had any complaints. If there
were any they were attended to at once, and weekly reports of
circumstances and actions taken were forwarded through the
proper channel to district headquarters, with copies of diaries
of all officers, N.C.O.'s and constables, and extracts were
submitted in the commandant's monthly report to the
commissioner.
The N.W.M.P. had, in 1888, arrived at a very high state of
efficiency, not only as police, but as soldiers. The training
throughout was the best, the men a fine class, good-looking
and well-educated. On Joining headquarters they had a steady
grind at military and police instruction, and lectures on every
part of their duties were given ; they were then distributed to
fill up the vacancies in the districts ; the commandants, during
the whole of their future career in the force were responsible
for their efficiency. The mounted infantry book had been
gauged at its real value, which was small, and the true system
for mounted rifles resurrected. We were soon far in advance
of the time in everything that goes to make good scouts,
soldiers and police. A careful watch was kept that we should
excel in horsemanship, which had to be of the very best. No
fault was overlooked ; the riding-school was before every care-
less rider. Firing from the saddle with revolver and carbine
was part of the instruction.
The divisions of the force were in a position to take the field
complete with transport in less than half an hour at any time
of the day or night, and the smaller parties, so often required
in an emergency, were obliged to be in the saddle, ready for
the prairie, in fifteen minutes from the time they were roused
from their slumbers.
The Macleod district and those contiguous were at that time
the home of the stockman, and very little farming in the true
sense was done. The horses and cattle roamed at will, a great
temptation to the horse and cattle thief. This necessitated
constant vigilance. The patrols were obligatory night and day,
no matter how severe the weather might be, rain or shine, frost
258 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
or snow. The Bloods and Peigans, two of the strongest tribes,
were on their reserves in the centre of the district. They were,
as a rule, well-behaved, but the young bucks were always
ready for war with their hereditary enemies, the Crows and
Gros Ventres, to the south of the border, or for any other mis-
chief. Although well fed they would turn out at night and raid
the ranches for cattle and horses ; the former they would kill
for food ; the latter they would run off to the United States to
trade with the receiver of stolen stock, who would in turn sell
them to travellers who were going south, just as they sold
horses stolen in the south to persons who were on their way
north, thus reducing the chances of detection.
In the prevention of these crimes the patrols on night duty
along the borders of the Indian reserves frequently came in
contact with the Indians, and were obliged to make their
arrests at the pistol's point. Conflicts occasionally occurred,
but such episodes had to be made light of and kept as quiet
as possible, lest the settlers be alarmed and rumours of a
disturbing nature be circulated throughout the country. The
Indian war of 1885 had made the people very nervous, and
the shghtest rumour caused many to see Indian risings every
spring when the grass was good.
Apart from the Indians the cattle ranchers had enemies to
their prosperity who were far more dangerous because they
were their own neighbours. These settled on homesteads in
the centre of the leases, and did their best to make up small
herds at the expense of the large concerns. They were a curse
to the cattle industry. Fortunately many were caught and
punished, but their detection was difficult.
Prairie fires gave us much trouble. They were a great
danger to the stock interests. The grass became very dry, in
fact turned into hay on the ground in August, and was as
nutritious as when it was green, but it would ignite as easily
as tinder, and many hard rides had to be made to detect the
wilful or foohshly neghgent persons who were responsible.
The moment smoke or any sign of fire was noticed the poUce-
man who saw it had to proceed to the spot and others in the
party had to turn out every male settler, man or boy, within
ten miles to extinguish it. Waggons loaded with barrels of
THE FIRE ALARM 259
water and empty sacks were soon going at full speed to the
fire ; mounted men with damp sacks tied to their saddles
rode furiously in that direction ; ploughs were brought to run
lines of fire-guards to cut off the area in flames. When the
grass was short the fires were extinguished by beating out the
flames with the wet sacks. Sometimes I had a hundred men
out for several days at a time ; everything had to be set aside
for this. All the officers and men of my two divisions were
fire guardians under the laws of the territory, and many
civihans held the same office. The fines were heavy, the
informant being entitled to half, a provision in the law which
caused at least one rather amusing episode.
Our hay contractor generally cut the hay aft«r it had
turned brown. One of his men, when smoking, set the prairie
on fire where they were working, whereupon the contractor
rode at full speed towards Pincher Creek village, where there
was a magistrate. On his way he met a Mounted Pohceman
riding hard towards the fire and, as he galloped by, called out,
*' One of those men of mine has started a fire ; all the hay will
be burned ; for the Lord's sake turn out as many as you can
to put it out. I'm after ! "
The policeman rode on, and men were turned out and the
fire extinguished before he returned. He had been to the
magistrate, before whom he laid an information against him-
self for causing the fire through his hired men, was fined
100 dollars, paid the amount promptly, then cleared half as in-
formant, thus saving 50 dollars. When he returned to camp
he had the laugh on the other fellows.
One morning we had a little example of our share in the
prevention of fires spreading. A cowboy rode up to the
orderly-room and reported that prairie fires were raging along
the northern part of the Porcupine Hills. He looked as if he
had ridden hard, and said that the stockmen and their neigh-
bours had been fighting the fires for a couple of days and nights
and were exhausted. As there was need of immediate help
I sent Sergeant Joyce, a very hard-riding and capable N.C.O.,
with 50 mounted men to the scene of the fire, some 35 miles
distant. They foimd everyone in a state of exhaustion, but,
starting work at once, with the assistance of a few of the
26o FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
ranchers who were able to carry on, they extinguished the fire
after 6 hours' strenuous toil, and were back at Macleod within
24 hours, none the worse for their trip and their 70 mile ride.
In some places where the grass was long and the wind high,,
nothing could stop it. The fire travelled faster than a horse.
On one occasion a rancher was followed by a fire of that sort
and had to start another ahead to save himself from being
overtaken, resting on the burnt ground until the pursuing fire
had passed on both sides. He followed the flames to his ranch^
expecting to find it in ruins, but, to his intense relief, found his
stacks and home safe, and the Mounted Policemen of the
neighbouring detachment seated on the wood-pile, blackened
and panting from their efforts.
These experiences were all in the day's work with us ; the
main thing was to see that the settler was protected and that
the work be so well done that he did not need to take part in
a " neck-tie social," as they had to do in a neighbouring State
in 1884, when at least 40 enterprising fellows who had annexed
their neighbours' horses were hanged, without the intervention
of judge or jury. Amongst them was a young man who was
traveUing south from Canada and who on his way stopped
for the night at a road house, where he met a number of men
dressed in the cowpuncher's garb. They invited him to a
meal, of which he partook, and all had settled down for a night's
rest when the house was surrounded by the vigilantes, and all
hands taken out and hanged. The young feUow protested his
innocence, and was backed up by his supper mates, who stated
that he did not belong to their gang, but it was no use, he was
strung up with the rest. Another innocent man was a freighter
from Canada who had once been a sergeant in the force and
who, with several others, was lynched through the treachery of
a British subject.
None of these things could take place in Canada or, in
fact, in the Empire, but we had at one time the men for
it if it had been permitted. They had been driven out,
however, or had a trip " over the road " to the penitentiary.
They were a desperate lot, fearing nothing and ready to face
death at any time, regardless of the lack of preparation. One
of them after he went across was hired by a rancher near Sun
A CALLOUS RUFFL\N 261
River, Montana, and, after serving him for some time, took it
into his head, in the absence of the proprietor, to murder
the mistress of the house and the manager. Two children
who were there escaped to the brush along the creek and finally
-warned some neighbours of the occurrence. The sheriff was
sent for, but, after arresting the murderer, he was forced to
give him up to the enraged citizens, who brought the miscreant
in a waggon to a convenient tree and drove imder a branch.
When the rope was properly adjusted, the murderer, anxious
to have the work over as soon as possible, called out, " Are you
all set ? " " Yes, all set 1 " was the reply. " Then, drive on,
you ! " he called out. The whip was apphed to the team
and the wretch left danghng in mid air.
CHAPTER XIV
Indian depredations — ^The young braves — An arrest opposed — ^The
police and the Indians — The Governor General's tour — ^A display
of Indian horsemanship — ^My marriage — A visit to the United
States — The New York police — ^An interview with Sir John
Macdonald — The capacity of Southern Alberta — ^The Mormon
settlement at Cardston — Organization and customs — Social life
at Macleod — Cowboy sports — A wonderful feat of horsemanship —
An exciting drive — Alarming experiences — Christmas in the west
— Changes in the territory — Death of Lt.-Col. Macleod — ^A loss to
the Dominion — A distinguished career — Another sad loss — Jerry
Potts — A faithful servant and an unequalled guide — His influence
with the Indians — A tedious hunt — " Bad Young Man " — Almost
trapped — Clues — ^The pursuit — ^The pursuers defied — Captured at
last — ^Wild stories in the press — ^The Diamond Jubilee — ^The
N.W.M.P. contingent.
WHEN I took over command of the Macleod district
the Sun Dance, which I have already described^
was still a strong and baneful feature of Indian
life, particularly with the Blood tribe, the most
war-hke of the western Indians. It kept the red man from
becoming civilized, and the mischief was enhanced by the
practice of the older men of "counting their coups," i.e.,
relating to the assembled warriors their real or imaginary
feats of valour in war. This conduct encouraged the rising
and recently initiated braves to commit crimes, such as horse
and cattle stealing and raids upon their hereditary enemies,
the American Indians.
In 1889 one of these expeditions was led by Prairie Chicken
Old Man, an active and daring young Blood Indian. It was
first reported to me on April 30 that a party of 15 Blood Indians
had left for the Crow reservation on the Big Horn River, in the
United States. The names of the Indians were obtained and
retained for further use. On the 22nd I had received a telegram
from Mr. R. S. Tingley, of Big Sandy, Montana, to the effect
that our Indians were stealing horses in that neighbourhood,.
262
AN INDIAN RAID 263
and asking me to take action in the matter. My outposts were
warned to keep a sharp look out for their return in case they
should escape notice. Later on I had another telegram from
Mr. Tingley, stating that the Bloods had stolen 17 horses from
him, and I sent an officer and all available N.C.O.'s and men to
intercept the Indians, and notified the districts to the east and
all outposts.
On May 7 I received a telegram from R. B. Harrison, Helena,
Montana, that the Bloods had stolen 40 horses belonging to the
Crows. I also received a telegram from Colonel Otis, U.S. army,
who was commanding at Fort Assiniboine, to the effect that
nine Bloods had passed through the Bear Paw Mountains near
there with stolen horses belonging to the Crows in their posses-
sion. Several rumours also came in to the effect that the party
was under Prairie Chicken Old Man and that they were all
killed by the Gros Ventres. On the i6th the outpost scouts
captured The Bee, one of the raiders, and sent him into barracks.
On the i8th Hind Gun, Young Pine and The Scout gave them-
selves up to the Indian agent, and were confined in the guard-
room at Macleod.
The day after he was arrested, Young Pine confessed to me,
when he was arraigned in the orderly-room, that the party
consisted of five Bloods and one South Peigan, and that on the
Big Horn, over 300 miles from Macleod, they stole and drove
off from near the Crow agency about 100 head of horses most
of which were not in good condition and had to be dropped
along the trail. When they were returning on the second day
from the Crow agency they were surprised by a large party
of Gros Ventres, who commenced shooting at them, and they
were pursued by the Gros Ventres into the Bear Paw Moim-
tains. They kept on, returning the fire, and in their efforts
to break through for Canada they met two Indians on the
trail in front of them, pursued them and killed one of them,
an Assiniboine. The Scout took his horse and Prairie Chicken
Old Man his scalp. A party of American cavalry tried to
head them off, and in their efforts to escape they were obUged
to leave most of the stolen horses with the Gros Ventres.
However, they arrived at the Blood reserve with five of the
stolen horses and one that they foimd straying.
264 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
A month later the Indian commissioner was at Macleod
and had an interview with the Indians akeady captured, and
they were released to come up for trial when required. Later
another member of the marauding party came and gave him-
self up to me, and, as the others had been released and no
charge had been laid against him, I allowed him to go, giving
him a severe " telling off " for his misconduct.
This raid was a fair sample of the daring character of the
Blood Indian braves, and of the annoyance that the younger
ones were in the habit of giving us and, in this case, the authori-
ties on the south side of the border. Their crimes should have
been severely punished as soon as the witnesses could be
obtained, which would have been easy enough, but it appears
to me now, as it did then, that the civiUzation of the Bloods
was not eagerly sought after by the worthy persons responsible
for it.
The Sun Dance, the chief cause of much mischief, commenced
that year, and a horse thief, named Calf Robe, had taken refuge
there, beheving it to be a sanctuary. Staff-Sergeant C.
HiUiard reported to me that Calf Robe had levelled his rifle
at one of the constables a few days previously when he made
an attempt to arrest him for his crime. I was determined
that we must have no further trouble with refugees at the Sun
Dance, and ordered him to proceed there and arrest the horse
thief, taking with him a sufficient number of men for the
purpose. The task no doubt required great tact and courage,
but Hilliard and his men were weU fitted for it.
They found Calf Robe in the medicine lodge, and attempted
to take him, but in vain ; several hundred armed warriors
fell upon the poUce, overpowering them and turning their
prisoner loose. He was seized by the three and another
attempt was made to drag him forth. The men were often
on the ground in their struggle with the Indians, dozens of rifles
were pointed at their heads as they lay on the ground hanging
on to their prisoner, or when trying to bring him away, and at
the last he was torn from them and, protected by over 200
howhng braves, galloped off. It is a wonder there was no
bloodshed, and there most certainly would have been if
the pohce had lost their heads and tried to draw their
LEGAL POSITION OF THE INDIANS 265
revolvers. Their cool and resolute conduct was worthy of all
praise.
On his return to Stand Off, Hilhard reported his failure to
make the arrest, and early next day I ordered Inspector Wood
to proceed to Stand Off with a small party, and held the
remainder of the men in barracks ready to support him if
necessary. My orders were to Red Crow, through him, to
bring in Calf Robe and all of the ringleaders in the interference
with the three poHce ; if he did not bring them in, I should
take out a party strong enough for the purpose. Wood acted
with his usual tact and skiU, and returned the next day with
five Indians, whom he confined in the guard-room. The chief
came with them and expressed his regret at the occurrence.
The Indians were brought before Inspector Wood and myself
for their prehminary trial, the Indian agent appearing in their
defence, and, after the witnesses had been heard, were com-
mitted for trial before the supreme court. The Indian agent
and Red Crow went bail for them. The legahty of the arrest
was questioned, and there was much correspondence, but my
action was supported in every particular by Sir John Thomp-
son, Minister of Justice, who held that we could arrest an
Indian at any time or place. They were wards and we were
ofi&cers of the Crown, therefore there was no chance of a
miscarriage of justice.
On September 9 I received instructions from headquarters
to provide a travelling escort and transport to meet the
Governor General, Lady Stanley, and several of their friends,
with a number of staff officers, who were making a tour of the
southern part of the territory and British Colimibia.
The party came to Lethbridge by rail and were met there
by the escort on October 11. They left for the Blood agency
on BeUy River, where they arrived at noon, and halted for
luncheon and to receive an address from the chiefs of the
tribe. I met them there with two strong sub-divisions. When
I arrived I formed them facing the ground on which the Indian
ceremonies were to be performed. The Indians had assembled
in large numbers, and when the Governor General and party
arrived there the chiefs were presented. Red Crow, the fine
old chief of the Bloods, came first, of course, and, after this
266 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
part of the ceremony was over and the usual speeches made,
the Indian warriors who had assembled gave a mounted war
dance. This was really an illustration of what they would
do in war, such as riding into the camp of an enemy and
stampeding his horses. The braves were beautifully decorated,
plumed and painted, and all were well mounted and in high
spirits. Our horses were so accustomed to the weird sights
and sounds of the old Indian camps which they had so often
to visit, and of the prairie on which they were bred, and to the
practice given them in the force by waving blankets and shoot-
ing over their heads at the annual training, that they did not
pay the slightest attention to what followed.
The Indians formed up some hundreds of yards in front of
us, and the Governor General's party were on the verandah
of the agency. When his turn came, each centaur rode at
full speed towards us, rolled up in his blanket hke a ball, both
feet coiled up under him on the saddle, and when he was close
enough, suddenly unrolled himself and, standing erect on his
horse, spread the blanket to the full extent of his arms like
the wings of a bat, coming at us with wild yells, flapping it as
he passed at a gallop round the flanks of my party. Others
came waving the blanket in one hand and firing their rifles
as they approached with their wild war whoops. Many
gaUoped in, firing as they advanced, or rode by yelling and
shaking their rifles at us as if in defiance, but there was not a
tremor amongst our horses, and I judged that the Indians
were quite disappointed at the failure of their efforts.
The visitors enjoyed the proceedings, as they did their
subsequent visit to the Cochrane ranch, where Mr. W. Cochrane
turned out his cowboys and gave the party a fine display of
ranch work, roping and branding steers " as were steers,"
not the miserable in-bred lot that one sees at the stampedes
and other exhibitions throughout the country to-day. Each
of the animals would weigh several hundred pounds more
than the Texan variety, and was much stronger. When they
came for a man " bull dogging " was of no avail.
In January, 1890, I went on leave to eastern Canada to be
married, and owing to the importance of the district I was
relieved by the assistant commissioner of the force.
MY MARRIAGE 267
The winter traffic on the C.P.R. in those days was not heavy.
After I reached Dunmore the only passengers with me in the
Pulhnan were Sir John Lister Kaye and a young man from
Vancouver. We were delayed for a day at Biscotasing, a small
place on the north shore of Lake Superior, and found the
weather extremely cold. There was no dining-car with us
at the time, but through the kindness of the agent we received
very good meals, which only cost us 15 cents as a tip to the cook
for his trouble.
When I arrived at Montreal the city was in the throes of a
blizzard. I stayed there for a day or two, and then went ta
the village of Vaudreuil, in the county of that name, and
on January 15 was married to Miss Marie Ehzabeth Harwood,
the eldest daughter of Mr. Robert Harwood, M.P., a seigneur
of the county and maternal grandson of Michel Gaspard
Chartier de Lotbiniere, the last Marquis de Lotbiniere, a direct
descendant of Allan Carter, a Scottish officer who as a youth
accompanied Margaret of Scotland to France when she went
to that country to marry the Dauphin. He was afterwards
ennobled as Marquis de Lotbiniere, and the family has for
many generations been closely identified with the history of
Canada.
After our marriage we visited New York and other places
in the United States, and were received with great hospitaUty.
We saw everjrthing of note in greater New York, The fire
department turned out 60 engines for us, and we saw many
of the precincts (divisions) of the poUce of the city, and I met
the principal officers of that remarkable force. As we drove
round on our visit the sergeants and inspectors, said, " Yes,
Major, we own this city, we can handle any riot ourselves,
and we have great influence." I could see quite plainly that
they had ; the force was well paid and well equipped.
After a month south of the border we returned to Vaudreuil,
and visited several of the leading cities, a very pleasant winter
being spent. On one of my visits to Ottawa, Mr. White, our
comptroller, stated that Sir John Macdonald wished me to
report at his office. Sir John gave a skip as he entered the
ante-room, where a number of people were waiting to see him,
poked one of them in the ribs with his cane, followed it up with
268 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
a joke, and asked me to go into his office. When we were
seated he said that there was a bill for the Calgary-Edmonton
Railway before the House, the line to run from Macleod
through Calgary to Edmonton, and he wished me to tell him
all about the country and to give an opinion as to the route
to be taken. I informed him that the line was much needed
and that the country through which it would pass was very
fertile and would fill up with settlers as soon as there were
facilities for transportation, which there were not at that time.
He expressed himself pleased with what I told him, and the
bill was rushed through the same afternoon and surveys
commenced the following summer. That was the first and
last interview that I had with Sir John, sad to say ; he was not
to be very long at the head of the force after that, although
to all appearance he might have had a great many years before
him, he was so active and bright. After a very pleasant time
in the east, my wife and I left Vaudreuil in May and arrived
at Macleod on the 14th, where our friends gave us a very
warm welcome.
The district was now beginning to be known as Southern
Alberta, although it had not yet arrived at the dignity of a
province, and had only one member in the House of Commons
and one senator. There was an impression abroad that the
district was unfit for anything but stock-raising, and our
friends the horse and cattle ranchers did their best to strengthen
the idea, now happily exploded. The Mormon settlement at
Cardston, or Lee's Creek, had done much to demonstrate that
the district was one of the best in the north west, but until
they were firmly established on their farms the majority of the
people in the country round imported their butter, eggs and
vegetables. Even the large ranchers who owned thousands
of cows used tinned milk, and even tinned vegetables. There
were other farmers besides the Latter Day Saints, but they
were few and far between, and had no appreciable effect on the
supply of farm products.
Our situation was better, every detachment had a small
garden and was supplied with seeds. They were loaned cows
by the larger ranchers, and there was ample space on which
to pasture them, and facilities for keeping fowls. After the
THE MORMONS AT CARDSTON 269
Mormons were started we were able to get much from them,
and to the towns of Lethbridge and Macleod they were and
still are a god-send. The head of the Mormon settlement
was Mr. Card, after whom it was named. Mrs. Card was a
daughter of Brigham Young, the prophet, who led them on
their great trek to Great Salt Lake, and established them so
firmly there that for many years they were the most influential
community in Utah. Card and his wife, " Aimt Zina," as she
was called in the community, did much to direct their people
on the way to prosperity. The new settlers of their faith
were assisted in every way. Much land was purchased and
the extent increased as soon as they could afford it, and their
system of locating in a village and carrying on their farming
operations from there was an excellent plan, suiting the
prairie country extremely well.
The Mormons worked their farms from a common centre,
which admitted of their having their gardens, houses, corrals,
stores, halls, assembly-rooms, churches, shops and schools
within easy reach of all, thus giving them advantages impossible
for those who reside on their homesteads. The women and
children are always within call if assistance is required should
the man of the house be away. We found the Mormons
a hospitable people, but they had the reputation of being
over sharp in their business dealings. I saw much of them
in my frequent visits to the sub-districts, and my wife and
I often stayed overnight at the Cards. Parties of ladies and
gentlemen came with us sometimes, and much enjoyed the
trips ; they were received in so kindly a manner. Strange
to say I found the Mormon women-folk the strongest supporters
of polygamy. Brilliant lawyers and able financiers who were
with me had all they could do to hold their own in arguments
with the leading lady of the settlement.
At this time they were under close surveillance, detectives
being in their midst, and finally, on reports which I furnished,
the criminal code was amended to meet the circumstances.
The social customs of the Mormons were different from those
which existed amongst the "Gentiles," as they called those
outside of their faith. Their dances were opened with prayer ;
the master of the ceremonies, standing at the upper end of the
270 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
hall or room, raised his hand enjoining silence, and, still
holding it aloft, called upon God to bless the proceedings of
the evening. If any Gentiles were present the Mormons
were permitted to have two round dances out of respect to the
visitors, but amongst themselves these were not allowed,
only quadrilles were permitted and that fiend, the caller-off,
was present in all his glory.
At Macleod and throughout the district, although the life
was strenuous, there was no lack of amusements or sports.
During the summer quadrille and tennis parties, polo and golf
were frequent, and, when transport could be spared, the
guests to the barrack dances with their visiting friends in town
were driven to and from them. There were few halls in the
little town to accommodate a large ball or party, and to help
the people a wing of the barracks was thrown open to the
St. George's, St. Andrew's and St. Patrick's Societies for their
annual balls.
Our annual ball was given during the winter, all ranks
subscribing sufficient to make it a success, and, no matter
what ball it was, the billiard and reception-rooms, etc., were
thrown open, and as the dance went merrily on a smoking
concert was held in the recreation room, where cigars and
soft drinks were dispensed to the non-dancing men. The
sitting-out rooms were furnished by the married officers and
men. Robes and fur rugs decorated the floors and comfortable
seats were provided. These parties usually numbered several
hundred. The whole countryside was invited, and many
came very long distances in their spring waggons, often 30
or 40 miles, but they did not mind that. As it was not always
convenient to leave the numerous babies at home, they were
stowed away comfortably in the houses of their friends in town.
At parties held in the country the youngsters were often seen
a dozen at a time tucked up in one of the beds ; so close
together and so mixed up would they be before morning that
it was difficult to know one from the other. More than once
practical jokers changed the babies, and it was very difficult
for the almost distracted mothers to know " which from
which."
During the summer there were race meetings on a very good
COWBOY SPORTS 271
course and, at intervals between races, roping the wild steer,
riding the broncho and other events peculiar to a great stock
country were indulged in. The competitors in these events
had often come from a long distance and were past-masters
at the games, sometimes champions of the great stock regions
south of the line and in our own country from the ranches
in the vicinity. The racers were brought in from distant parts
of the country, but as a rule that sport was not first-class.
The Blood and Peigan Indians with their squaws attended,
accompanied by their ponies, papooses and dogs. These were
in evidence every day and evinced a keen interest in all that
was going on. Horse races were arranged for the Indians,
both men and boys, for the red men were real sports and rode
to win ; Jerry Potts was always the starter, and decided
many disputes. He was a leader amongst them, and remained
so until the day of his death.
In the roping contests the wild steers were run out. These
were not the light Texan variety, but the huge animals of the
ranches of the districts of southern Alberta, and as savage as
any. When they had passed the line about 100 feet the
cowboy on his well-trained pony followed at full speed. His
horse kept its eye on the lasso until it fell over the steer's head,
then came to a dead stop with all four feet planted to receive
the strain. The sudden shock caused the steer to go heels over
head and fall on the broad of its back, the cow pony still
keeping the rope taut by hanging back until the rider had time
to dismount, hog tie the steer, throw off the rope and mount
his horse, which had stood watching every move during the
operation.
The bucking contests were no circus affairs, the horses were
perfectly wild, at least five years old, and had never been
ridden, saddled or handled. The horsemanship had to be
of the very best. Man and horse often came to the ground
together and were up again with the rider still in his place.
There were very few casualties, however, although it is really
wonderful that no one was hurt.
Amongst the most extraordinary feats of horsemanship that
we had the good fortune to witness was one by Mr. Charles
Sharpies, of the Winder ranch. He had brought some horses
272 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
to Macleod to sell to the Mounted Police, and had them in a
livery stable near the Old Man's River, where there was a
perpendicular bank about 40 feet in height. He started out
to show one of them to the commissioner at the barracks, but
the brute bucked fiercely towards the cut-bank, sidling and
fighting against its rider until at last there seemed to be nothing
for it but to go over the brink, side on. Sharpies would have
none of that, however. He turned the brute sharply towards
the precipice, gave it the spur and went out into space. Every-
one in the vicinity, and there were many, rushed to the bank
to see what had become of the bold horseman, and were
surprised to see him still firm in the saddle, with the horse
swimming towards the opposite bank, none the worse for his
wild leap.
Often we drove to the Glengarry ranch, a most attractive
spot in a valley of the Porcupine Hills, 35 miles north of
Macleod. The managing director, Mr. Allen Bean Macdonald,
and his charming wife and family did their utmost to make
our visits agreeable by taking us for jaunts over the hills to
the best fishing pools of the numerous pretty trout streams
which meander through that favoured region. In the evenings
after dinner the men of the ranch, several of whom could
speak Gaehc and English, or, as they laughingly said, " the
two talks," came to the house and, to Mrs. Macdonald's
inspiring music, danced Scotch Reels, the Highland Fhng, etc.,
until the approach of the smaU hours warned them that there
was another day's work before them. Several of the cowboys
on the ranch were brought from Mr. Macdonald's county of
Glengarry, a very Highland Scotch comer of Ontario, and
imder his careful instruction developed into that useful
person the Canadian cowboy. Not confining themselves to the
mere handling of the cattle, these men could do any useful
work, evidence of which was to be seen on all sides, in that
neatness so attractive on a well-managed ranch or farm.
In 1892 my wife took a trip east for the summer. The
Calgary and Edmonton railway was under construction, but
was not completed until the autumn. In the interval Supt.
A. R. Macdonnell had three guests at his home, and, when I
started off on the last round of all the posts before sending in,
AN EXCITING DRIVE 273
my annual report, I invited them and Mr, and Mrs. D. W.
Davis to come with me, and all gladly accepted.
When we started off Mrs. Davis and Mrs. C, Macdonnell's
niece, were in the back seat, and Mr. Davis and I sat facing
them with our backs to the horses. The driver. Constable J.
Macdonald, had two new horses in the team, and as they were
almost exactly like the others a mistake was made and they
were put in the wheel. This we discovered to our cost when
we arrived at the top of Spicer's HiU, a very steep and high
declivity by which we had to approach the Kootenay or
Waterton River. There was a sharp turn at the foot of the
hill, where a barbed wire fence ran across in front of us, a bad
thing to face. When the team commenced to descend the
breeching came against the young horses and they sprang
forward, starting the leaders, and off we went at the utmost
speed of the team, all beUeving that we stood a fair chance of
this being our last journey. " D. W." and Mrs. Davis sat as
if a runaway on the highest and worst hill in the district was
an ordinary recreation. Mrs. C, in very natural terror, clung
to Mrs. Davis, whose calm demeanour and soothing manner
towards her companion in trouble was one of the finest things
in the way of genuine pluck that I have seen. The driver,
one of the best in the country I should think, handled his
team with great skill, swinging it round the comer clear of
the wire fence and keeping on at a fast gallop until he brought
it up exhausted at the ford. We changed the wheelers next
morning and I cautioned Macdonald to avoid another mistake,
and in the evening, when we halted at Stand Off, he looked over
the numbers on the horses' hoofs to make sure that it could
not happen again.
The following night we halted at our post at Cardston, and
next morning headed our teams for the detachment at Boundary
Creek, near the foot of Chief Mountain. Our trail led along
the high bench of Lee's Creek, on its way to the foothills, and
a few miles up we came to a long hill leading across the creek
by a narrow bridge without a parapet. On both sides there
was a drop of about 10 feet to boulders and dry gravel below.
Along the trail to our left a strong barbed wire fence confined
it, and to our right there was a steep hill, a couple of hundred
274 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
feet in height, along the side of which our trail descended so
that there were really two hills, one in front and the other on
the right. No sooner did the team arrive at the top of the
first hill than, the breeching touching the wheelers, the team
sprang madly down the hill, and to all appearance there seemed
to be but little hope of avoiding a fatal accident, had not
Macdonald, powerful in the arms and with his wits about him,
wheeled his horses, faced the hill on the right and drawn them
up exhausted at the top, a narrow escape for us. There was
no chance of another for the same reason, however, for out
came poor Macdonald's notebook to take down the numbers
of his horses.
The next adventure with Macdonald and his team was a
few years later, when he drove my wife and myself south.
The rivers had been at flood a short time previous to this, and
with those mountain streams it is a common thing for the
fords to disappear, and years afterwards for others to take their
places. There are regular changes, the high water washing
away the banks, one season on the right, the next on the left,
the river gradually cutting down further and making the
valley deeper. On this trip, as there was no sign of a change
to the true ford, we drove in, to find in a few seconds that our
horses were swimming boldly across as if it were their accus-
tomed work. The waggon floated, but the box filled with
water, and my wife and the two children had to get on top of
the seat. Fortunately the waggon was the old sensible broad
gauge, the only one fit for fords and side hills, or it would have
upset, and no doubt, in spite of all one could do, someone
would have found a watery grave. As it was, it tipped now
one way, now the other, as the wheels struck boulders, and
bumped along at a great rate. My wife showed no sign of
fear, and the children, of course, did not know what it all
meant. At last, by dint of good swimming by the team, we
were brought safely to land some hundreds of yards below,
and were soon dry and comfortable in the quarters at Stand
Off.
Christmas was a jolly time in the west in those days and is
still, and was kept in the best style at all Mounted Pohce
posts. Dinner was always in the evening, and this was the
DEATH OF COLONEL MACLEOD 275
occasion when the N.C.O.'s and men invited their bachelor
friends to accept their hospitahty in return for their many
kindnesses during the year at their ranches and homes. They
spared no expense to make the occasion all that could be
desired, and, as is customary all over the Empire, the officers,
headed by the CO., visited the mess-rooms to see the decora-
tions and wish their men a merry Christmas and a happy New
Year.
During these years at Macleod the changes in the territory
were assuming greater proportions. Large numbers of useful
settlers were coming in ; every day during the summer their
prairie schooners, as their covered waggons are called, were to
be seen on the trail through the district from the United States
to the north country. A customs post had been estabUshed
at St. Mary's in the south to meet the vastly increasing travel.
Farm delegates from the old country travelled all over the
west in the four-horse waggons of the force, and were enter-
tained at our posts and at the homes of the stockmen. Many
farmers from the eastern provinces of the Dominion and the
New England states came to spy out the land and select
homesteads for themselves and their neighbours. They
would return in the spring with large parties of their friends,
and were soon comfortably settled.
The Calgary and Edmonton Railway, a useful Une extending
for 300 miles from Macleod in the south through Calgary to
Edmonton in the north, was completed early in the autumn
of 1892.
On September 5, 1894, Canada suffered a great loss in the
death of that noble character, Lt.-Col. James Farquharson
Macleod, C.M.G., a judge of the Supreme Court of the North
West Territories. As a soldier, a judge and a gentleman he
had few equals. From the time he arrived, in everything for
the well-being of the people of the North West Territory his
hand was to be seen. No one was jealous of him; he was
the admired of all, and kind to a fault. He had been trans-
ferred to Calgary some time before his death, and was much
missed in Macleod. He was a near relative of the chief of the
great clan whose name he bore, and his father. Captain Martin
Macleod, had settled at Oak Ridges in the township of Whit-
276 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
church, county of York, Ontario. His son James was educated
at Upper Canada College, Toronto, and at Queen's University,
Kingston, and after graduating he studied law and was called
to the bar of Upper Canada. On war being imminent with
the United States owing to the Trent affair, he served on the
frontier until the trouble was over. Later, when Fenian raids
were threatened, he was again at the front, arid in 1870 he was
brigade-major on the Red River expedition. In 1873 he was
appointed to the N.W.M.P., eventually becoming commissioner
of the force, which he maintained at a high state of efficiency
until he resigned in 1880, to take up the appointment of
stipendiary magistrate of the territory.
In 1877 he was one of the commissioners for making the
great treaty with the Blackfeet and other Indians at " The
Ridge under the Water," as the Indians caUed the Blackfeet
crossing. In 1885 he was the principal factor in maintaining
peace amongst the Blackfeet, who looked upon him almost
with adoration, justly regarding him as the personification of
truth and honour. In 1887 he was appointed to the newly-
organized Supreme Court of the North West Territories, and
was one of its judges until the day of his death. From 1876
until the legislative assembly was complete many years later,
he was ex officio a member of the council for the government
of the territories and initiated much useful legislation.
On July 14 our remarkable interpreter, guide and scout,
Jerry Potts, died of consumption, after 22 years of faithful
service. He was the man who had trained the best scouts in
the force, and, in the earlier days when the prairie was a track-
less waste, there were very few trips or expeditions of import-
ance that were not guided by him or the men to whom he had
taught the craft of the plains. As scout and guide I have
never met his equal ; he had none in either the north west or
the states to the south. Many such men have been described
in story and their feats related round many a camp fire, but
none whom I have known or of whom I have read equalled
him. In the heat of summer or in the depth of winter, in
rain, storm or shine, with him as guide one was certain that
one would arrive safely at the destination. It did not matter
whether he had been over or in that part of the coimtry before.
JERRY POTTS AND THE INDIANS 277
it was all the same to Potts, although he never looked at
compass or map.
Potts' influence with the Blackfeet tribes was such that his
presence on many occasions prevented bloodshed. The
Mounted PoUce and Indians knew his character for tact and
pluck and believed that he would stay with his party to the
last moment no matter how serious the situation might be.
In his deahngs with the red men he was a master of finesse, a
most important quahty in all who deal with those keen children
of nature. It was a great pleasure to know Potts, for his
conduct was always that of a gentleman, and he possessed
most of the virtues and few of the faults of the races whose
blood coursed through his veins. As an interpreter he was
the most reliable that we ever had, being truthful and clear.
In explaining to the courts and the members of the force he
bad a clear-cut but terse way of his own, one might say,
boihng it down to the finest point needed, and to the Indians
the remarks of the white officials were explained so accurately
that there could be no shadow of doubt in their minds. It
would take a large volume to describe even a small part of
the usefulness of this man, his record being worthy of a place
in the archives of the country which he served so well.
During the autumn of 1896 the N.W.M.P., the settlers and
the Indians of the district were engaged in the most remarkable
and difficult of man hunts that has taken place in the west.
It began on October 13 and was kept up without intermission
until November 12, and for the whole month at least 100
officers and men of the force, many cowboys, stockmen and
settlers, with the addition of the two Indian agents and at
least 75 Blood and Peigan Indians, were riding hard in pursuit
of, and on the look out to capture, by every stratagem that the
white or red man's brain could devise, a Blood Indian, whose
pluck and endurance were a wonderful example of what the
greatest of natural soldiers is capable of, when put to the test.
The hero of this chase was Bad Young Man, or Dried Meat,
who had been nicknamed Charcoal by some of the white men
who were employed as issuers of rations at the Blood agency.
He was at least the equal if not the superior in character and
prowess of the ideal Indian of Fenimore Cooper's novels, and
278 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
for some years before we met the Bloods was spoken of by
them as one of their most remarkable young warriors, a hero
in their eyes from every point of view. In those days he
rarely slept in his camp, was generally on the warpath or on
horse stealing expeditions against the hereditary enemies of
his tribe, a restless brave who for a long time hated the whites.
To many he seemed to be a myth, but when we came into the
wilderness we found him only too much alive. He had given
us much trouble, but as time went on our just treatment had
the effect of making him friendly, and for several years he had
been weU behaved.
In 1896 Mr. James Wilson was the agent in charge of the
Bloods, and Mr. Harry Nash of the Peigans ; both were able
and self-denying officers of their department. On October 13
it was reported that a Blood Indian named Medicine Pipe
Stem had been found dead in a cattle shed on the Cochrane
ranch, and I sent the coroner, Mr. W. S. Anderton, to the
scene. I also sent a dispatch to Inspector Jarvis, who was at
Big Bend, directing him to proceed at once to the reserve and
investigate, and later on the same day it was reported that
some unknown person had made an attempt to murder Mr.
Macneil, the farm instructor of the Blood reservation, and
that Little Pine, one of the braves who had been on the horse
stealing expedition to the Crow Agency in 1889, had informed
the Indian agent of the Bloods that Charcoal had been to his
lodge and confessed to him that he had killed Medicine Pipe
Stem and that he had tried to kiU Macneil. Little Pine
wished to arrest Charcoal, but, although himself one of the
pluckiest of men, he would not venture to do so without
assistance, and he went to get some of his friends to help him,
but on his return Charcoal had gone, accompanied by his
family, which consisted of four squaws and two children.
"When I received this information all the detachments were
warned, and Inspector Jarvis, Sergeant HiUiard with our men,
our Indian scouts and other Indians were sent in pursuit.
At the inquest a verdict of wilful murder was returned, and I
issued a warrant for the arrest of Charcoal.
At Big Bend, soon after my arrival, a settler named Hender-
son came to the post and reported that while he was loading
THE PURSUIT OF CHARCOAL 279
timber in the woods a few miles distant an Indian had stolen
his overcoat. He gave chase, but could not overtake the
thief. The description of the Indian agreed with that of
Charcoal, and I sent Jarvis and his party to the place at once
to institute a search at dawn. Mr. Henderson volunteered
to assist.
On reaching the woods the police took off their hats and
boots, so that they could move without noise, and in this
manner proceeded five miles. They located the murderer's
lodge in a valley below them, where the pines were very thick
and the mountains towered above it to a great height, whilst
the undergrowth was very dense. The spot was approached
with caution, but, very unfortunately, when the party were
quite close to the lodge the cracking of a dried branch alarmed
the fugitive, who at once left his tent and fired several shots
at them. The police and Indians fired a couple of rounds, but
had to cease lest they might kill the women and children.
The murderer then dodged into the dense brush, followed
by two of the squaws and a lad, leaving behind him the other
two and one child, the tent, several ponies and a considerable
stock of provisions, sufficient to support the Indians for at
least two months. The pine forest where the lodge was con-
cealed was about 500 acres in extent, and was surrounded at
once. Inspector Davidson had already arrived at the west
end of it and had extended his men so as to prevent the
murderer from penetrating farther into the mountains. Jarvis
distributed his party round the remainder of the forest, and
it seemed as if the escape of the Indian during daylight was
cut off. It was arranged by both officers that the men should
be careful to prevent escape during the night, patrols being
kept moving, a long chain of Blood Indians and police. It
was also intended that a careful search would be made in the
brush at dawn, and all hands were notified of the hour it would
commence. The chain of sentries were cautioned not to fire
into the woods lest they might harm their comrades. Previous
to this Inspector Davidson, finding that his horses were in the
way while he was moving about on foot, sent them to Mr. R,
Bright's ranch, six miles distant, and put them in the stable
for the night, but when he sent a man at daylight to feed them.
28o FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
they had been stolen. Trailers were then sent to the ranch,
which was unoccupied at the time, and they came to the
conclusion that the horses had been taken back to the timber.
I did not believe that this could be so, and my idea proved to
be correct, when later in the day I received a dispatch from
Inspector Sanders informing me that Charcoal had been seen
at La Grandeur's ranch on the Old Man's River, about 45 miles
from the place where he was last seen, and that Davidson's
horses had been stabled. Thus the murderer, from the time
he stole through the chain round the woods, had covered
6 miles to Bright' s ranch on foot and from there 50 mounted.
As soon as I heard this I sent a message to Mr. James Wilson
for 30 reliable Blood Indians to reinforce me, and to Inspector
Sanders at Macleod for more of our men with arms and ammuni-
tion for the Bloods, and, as the weather was getting cold,
ordered warm underclothing and blankets for all.
Charcoal was first seen at La Grandeur's early on the
morning after he had left Bright's ranch. He had entered
the house when only the lady was present, helped himself to
food without remark and had departed. Mrs. La Grandeur
then informed the police, who, after searching the woods in
the valley of Old Man's River, struck the trail and, following
it, found Davidson's horses, but the moccasined fugitive left
no traces on the hard, dry ground.
When I heard of this I rode to La Grandeur's ranch. During
the night I was roused by a report that a Peigan Indian
named Commodore had been fired upon by an Indian supposed
to be Charcoal, who was trying to steal his horse, which was
tied near the house. The woods in the vicinity were searched,
but without success.
Charcoal's boy, who had escaped with him, was arrested in
the Peigan camp, and informed the agent that his father and
two squaws were in the Porcupine Hills several miles north
west, where they had gone from La Grandeur's, and that
Charcoal had visited the Peigan camp the previous night with
the boy behind him, for the purpose of stealing a horse, and
had concealed him in the bush, but was not long away when
the lad heard a shot and thought that Charcoal had been
killed, and he ran away in fright to where he was found.
GONE AWAY 281
After a great deal of persuasion the boy was induced to show
the way to the murderer's hiding-place ; two Indians in their
ordinary garb were sent with him, and some more Indians and
our men were sent after them to assist when the fugitive was
found. Shortly after they left I learned that Long Mane, a
half-brother of Charcoal, had supplied him with clothing. I
caused him to be arrested, so that he could do no more mischief.
The next morning the parties returned to the agency with
news that the Indian had seen them coming and had been
able to escape into the woods.
Day after day the search continued, and on the 28th Bear's
Back Bone, a brother of Charcoal, was arrested for assisting
him to escape. The other brothers and some female relatives
had gone to the Mormon settlement, 30 miles distant, to trade,
and as Left Hand, another brother, who was with them, had
been aiding the murderer, he also was arrested, and with him
22 other relatives were brought to the barracks, where they
were confined in the guard-room for aiding in Charcoal's
escape. Left Hand was naturally anxious to obtain his
release, and Mr. James Wilson, the Blood Indian agent, informed
me that he had a great deal of influence with him and that he
thought that if he were released he would assist in obtaining
information as to the fugitive's whereabouts, and inform me
or perhaps induce Charcoal to surrender. I had no belief that
the Indian would give himself up, but was under the impression
that if I could get reliable information as to his whereabouts
the capture might be affected. I therefore released Left
Hand on the 5th on condition that he would arrest him by the
loth, or if he could not do so he was to let the police know
when he visited the reserve.
I then sent for Inspector Jarvis, who was at Stand Off, and
on his arrival I had an interview in his presence with Left Hand
and Bear's Back Bone, and made them understand that if
Charcoal could not be arrested the brothers should at least
disarm him, for I was certain that we should never get the
murderer until at least one of his pursuers had been killed,
and I had carefully warned every person engaged in the
pursuit that whUe the Indian had fire-arms no chances were
to be taken with him.
282 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
The Indians promised to assist, and I told Left Hand that if
they did not keep their word they would be charged with
aiding and abetting the fugitive, and that their relatives, who
were in the guard-room, would be brought to trial on the same
charge. He seemed so deeply impressed with what I had to
say that I felt some confidence in his promise. I also arranged
at the same time that five Indians should watch the cabins of
Charcoal's relatives.
At 5 a.m. on November 2 I received a dispatch from Corporal
Armer, who was in charge of the police detachment at the
Mormon settlement, to the effect that when he was on his way
to lock the stable the evening before he was fired at and
slightly wounded by some person who was hiding behind the
water trough in the yard. The bullet fired at the corporal
was of the same calibre as those fired at Medicine Pipe Stem
and Mr. Macneil. Armer had a lantern in his hand at the
time, and it was ascertained that he was only eleven yards off
when the Indian fired at him, no doubt missing on account of
the glare of the light. The constable came out when he
heard the shot, but the assailant had disappeared in the
darkness.
Three and a half miles up Lee's Creek a Mrs. Lamb, whose
husband had been away from home, had heard some person
gaUop furiously along the trail which passed close by the
house. She knew from the rate that the horseman travelled
that it was not her husband, and she was very much alaxmed.
She heard a noise in the store-room behind the house as if
some person were pulling things about, and on going there in
the morning she found that a quantity of food had been
stolen.
From that house the party, with Scout Green Grass, a re-
markable trailer, followed the track of the fugitive. It led in
the direction of the pine wood at the head of the Belly River,
where he was first seen on October 17, but the trail was lost
on the hard ground and could not be taken up again. It was
at last ascertained that Charcoal had turned suddenly from
his north west course to the north east, and, after a hard ride
of about 50 miles to the lower Blood agency, the same morning
left his horse near there, '* played out," and lassoing another
THE MURDER OF WILDE 283
went across the Peigan reserve to the Porcupine Hills. I
organized a pack outfit to follow every clue until the murderer
was run down and captured.
Charcoal was seen at Beaver Creek and immediately pursued
by Sergeant Wilde and a party. He was again sighted near
Thibaudeau's ranch on the north fork of the Kootenay. He
was riding one horse barebacked and the other, which he led
alongside, was saddled and had provisions strapped upon it.
He paid no attention to his pursuers at first, but when they
began to push as fast as possible through the deep snow, he
changed horses, turning the unsaddled one loose. The murderer
could be seen with his carbine across the saddle in front of him
and looking over his shoulder occasionally as he rode along.
Sergeant Wilde, whose horse was above the average, closed
up rapidly, leaving his men far behind.
A Mr. Brotton, who was riding a fiery young horse and round-
ing up cattle, was within 50 yards when Wilde closed up on
the murderer, and he saw Wilde place his carbine across the
front of his body and reach over to take hold of the Indian,
who wheeled sharply round and fired. The sergeant fell, and
the murderer rode on about 20 yards, turned and rode back
to where Wilde's body lay, dismounted and fired another
shot into the murdered man's remains. He then raised
his hat over his head, gave a fierce war whoop of defiance
at all in sight, mounted Wilde's horse, took his carbine and
galloped off.
Shortly after this one of the scouts, a Blood Indian named
Many Tail Feathers Around His Neck, came up on foot ahead
of the rest, and Mr. Brotton, who was himself unarmed, offered
him his horse, but, as it was almost unbroken and very nervous,
it would not let him mount. He therefore mounted the mur-
derer's horse and continued the pursuit alone. Charcoal and
he disappearing in the gathering gloom. Scout Holloway and
the Peigan, when they came up, carried the sergeant's remains
into Thibaudeau's ranch, whence they were taken to Pincher
Creek the following day and an inquest held. The verdict
was wilful murder against Charcoal.
On receipt of the sad news of poor Wilde's death I sent
Inspector Sanders and a strong party to join in the chase.
284 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
and meanwhile Many Tail Feathers Around His Neck continued
the pursuit during the night. A party from Pincher Creek,
under John Herron, followed the Indian's trail and caught up
Many Tail Feathers.
They trailed the murderer to the Rocky Mountains at the
head of one of the ranches of the north fork of the Kootenay,
where Herron espied the Indian fugitive standing in the woods
behind his horse with his rifle levelled upon the party over
the saddle. Thibaudeau and Many Tail Feathers were
with Herron, the others some distance in advance on the
trail. Charcoal had doubled on it and was waiting for
them to pass.
On seeing him Many Tail Feathers called upon Charcoal to
surrender, and fired upon him, but missed. The remainder of
Mr. Herron's party, hearing the firing, galloped back to his
assistance, but by that time the murderer had disappeared in
the woods. The party then divided and guarded the woods,
while the scout and Hugh Leaper searched them. This was
continued until after dark, without success, when they found
that Charcoal had started for the reserve, and four of the men
followed his trail.
In the meantime, after Herron's men had driven him from
his refuge, the fugitive rode 55 miles as the crow flies to take
shelter on the Blood reserve, but as he had to pass round high
hills, lakes and sloughs, the distance could not have been less
than 70 miles. When he arrived at the reserve he went to the
house occupied by Left Hand and Bear's Back Bone, to whom
I have already referred as having promised to assist me in
arresting him, and knocked at the door, which the Indians
opened and asked him to come in. He gazed sternly at them
and said, " You have betrayed me," and after standing at
the door for a moment he returned to where his horse was
waiting, and was on the point of mounting when Left Hand,
who had followed him out, seized him and called upon Bear's
Back Bone to assist, and after a severe struggle they succeeded
in securing him.
After they had taken Charcoal into the house and quieted
him by giving him a smoke, they proceeded to search him,
and then noticed a flow of blood from him, which, upon ex-
CAPTURED AT LAST 285
amination, proved to have been made by an awl which the
prisoner had in his possession, and he would have bled to death
had they not perceived the blood. After binding up his wounds
Left Hand sent for Sergeant Macleod, who was in the vicinity
with his party as had been arranged, and Charcoal was taken
to Stand Off until he was able to move, and on November 14
he was confined in the guard-room at Fort Macleod.
On the same day Sergeant Wilde's remains were interred in
the cemetery there. He was one of the finest men who had
served in the Moimted Pohce, faithful, true and brave, useful
in every capacity. The citizens of Pincher Creek erected a
monument to his memory. Poor Wilde had two large and
faithful hounds always on guard where he was, and when the
pall-bearers were entering his room at Pincher Creek to remove
his remains, one of the animals would let no one approach and
had to be shot.
Bad Young Man, alias Dried Meat, ahas Charcoal, during
the time he was a fugitive never left the Macleod district,
although he might easily have escaped to the United States.
He knew, no doubt, that he would eventually be captured,
but was determined to leave a name which would not soon be
forgotten, and in this he certainly succeeded. His craft and
endurance were remarkable, and excited such admiration that,
had he not killed Sergeant Wilde, he would not have been
likely to suffer the death penalty, proof having been produced
at the trial that he had so much justification in kiUing Medicine
Pipe Stem that no doubt the jury would have returned a
verdict of manslaughter only.
During the pursuit of this Indian many wild and imfoimded
reports were circulated by the eastern press to the effect that
the settlers were alarmed on account of my arming the Indians
to assist in his capture. One of these was that I had as many
as 200 armed with repeating rifles. This was all nonsense.
Only 75 Indians were employed, and these not all at one time.
When they were fatigued through want of sleep and hard
riding, their moccasins torn and their clothing worn to rags,
they were reheved and others chosen to take their places.
They preferred to work under the officers and N.C.O.'s of the
force. The kind treatment which they had always received
286 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
from us, the careful management of their tribes for some years
previously and the kindness of the agents had gained the con-
fidence of the majority, consequently they cheerfully assisted
me.
Their tracking and picking up of the trail were all that could
be desired, in many cases marvellous, for it must be remembered
that there were thousands of horses roaming over the district ;
consequently it was covered with their tracks, making it diffi-
cult to know which was which. Amongst the best were Green
Grass and Many Tail Feathers Around His Neck. The whites
who worked with them formed a high opinion of their loyalty
and skiU, and the settlers, far from being uneasy, were well
pleased that I had established a precedent in the west of arming
the Indians and obtaining their assistance in the pursuit, all
being alarmed lest Bad Young Man might commit some out-
rage. Even the Indians who were not engaged in the chase,
with few exceptions, bolted and barred their doors and windows,
and were ready to give their redoubtable tribesman a warm
reception. Charcoal was found guilty of murder and hanged
in due course. He died hke a true warrior, singing his death
song all the way to the scaffold.
1897 was the year of the Diamond Jubilee, and there were
great rejoicings throughout the Empire. Strong contingents
of troops assembled in London to do honour to the occasion,
and a good troop of the N.W.M.P. was sent to take part, under
the command of Major Perry. These were given a hearty
reception in the Old Land. Several were selected from the
Macleod district ; all were anxious to go and take part, but of
course the number had to be limited and every district given a
share. I sent with mine the horse which poor Sergeant Wilde
was riding when he was murdered, and Sir Wilfred Laurier
presented it to the regiment in which he had last served. The
men of the contingent were granted two months' leave, and
had a right royal time in the Old Country.
In 1897 the Crow's Nest branch of the C.P.R., from Leth-
bridge through the Rocky Mountains to Revelstoke on the
main line, was under construction, and my district furnished
the officers and men to maintain order on the British Columbia
portion of the work. Inspectors Sanders and Jarvis being in
THE KLONDYKE GOLD RUSH 287
charge. Their troubles were reduced, however, by the de-
parture from British Columbia and the coast states of the
majority of the lawless element. The rush for the Klondyke
commenced in the autumn, and the hold-up men went after
the prospectors, as shall be seen in my next chapter.
CHAPTER XV
The Mounted Police in the Yukon territory — ^The gold discovery in
Bonanza Creek — ^The gold rush — Mr. William Ogilvie — I am sent
to the Yukon — ^A dangerous voyage — ^We reach Skagway — ^The
Ghilkoot Pass — ^The state of Skagway — Soapy Smith and lus gang
— Sheep camp — Gamblers and swindlers — Awful weather — A
customs post established — A strenuous life — Our varied duties —
Interesting visitors — Jack Crawford — ^Wild Bill and some of his
exploits — Gk)od Samaritans — Fatal avalanches — ^We are reinforced
— Conditions at Dawson — The Queen's birthday celebrations — ^The
great trek to Dawson — Miles Canyon — ^A serious accident — ^We
take charge — A motley fleet — ^Dangerous duty — American extor-
tion— A narrow escape — An adventurous lady — ^A friend in need.
IN 1894 a complaint was received by the government from
a prominent trading and transportation company at
Forty Mile Creek in the Yukon Territory to the effect
that miners and prospectors working on the creeks on
the American side were giving them much annoyance by
taking the law into their own hands. Supt. Constantine, an
officer of wide experience, was sent out to investigate, and in
consequence of his report it was decided that he, with Inspector
Strickland, Assistant-Surgeon Wills and 20 N.C.O.'s and men
should be stationed in the territory. The party was accom-
panied by Mr. D. W. Davis, who had been appointed collector
of customs for the Yukon Territory. The route taken was by
ocean vessel to the mouth of the Yukon, and thence by steamer
up the stream for nearly 2,000 miles to their destination at
Forty Mile Creek. The party was soon in comfortable quarters,
built, as usual, by themselves.
As this was the first effort on the part of the government to
estabhsh its authority in the Yukon Territory, which was still
part of the North West Territory, I shall give a short sketch
of the situation. Supt. Constantine was appointed magistrate
and recorder of claims. Inspector Strickland, a very active
officer, was as much at home in the sawmill or running the
288
BONANZA CREEK 289
logs down the river, as an example to his men, as studying the
art of war at the Royal Military College or scouring the plains
of the nori:h west. Dr. WiUs was an indispensable man, the
only surgeon in a region as large as France. Mr. D. W. Davis
was a pioneer of long standing, and had been 10 years a member
of the House of Commons.
Before the first year had passed over their heads the force
was popular with the very men whom it had been sent to keep
in order, and everything went smoothly. The comparative
quiet of the place did not last long, for in August, 1896, a great
discovery of placer gold was made on Bonanza Creek, a tribu-
tary of the Klondyke, properly the Tronduick or Tronduck,
a river which joined the Yukon about 50 miles above Fort
Constantine, the name given to the new post. Everyone who
could reach it rushed to the spot. Men left their old claims
and, with a blanket, an axe and a small supply of " grub,"
prospected the new creek, staked and registered their claims.
The news created great excitement throughout the civilized
world, and the great gold rush began, in consequence of which
reinforcements and suppUes were sent into the Yukon for the
Mounted PoUce.
The suppUes were pushed across the Chilkoot Pass as fast as
possible ; a cabin was built at Lake Bennett, Inspector Harper
was posted there, and the men of the force whipsawed the
lumber out of the green logs of spruce and fir and constructed
the boats as fast as the boards were ready for them.
The difficulties of the situation were at their height on
September 28. The Skagway trail to Lake Bennett via the
White Pass had been exploited by that interesting individual,
the company promoter, who had reported how easy it was to
get to the Klondyke if people would take the Skagway trail.
It was far otherwise, but, attracted by the statement and the
ill-advised chatter of the persons coming out from the gold-
fields, men from all parts of the world were going that way to
the new El Dorado.
From Seattle and other points in the south every crazy craft
which had been condemned was brought into use again and
put on the Skagway route, each of them on arrival unloading
hundreds of passengers, large quantities of suppUes, mules and
290 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
horses for packing. The result was that the trail was soon
jammed and further progress wellnigh impossible. Rain fell
in torrents for several weeks, making the trails knee deep in
mud ; oats and hay became scarce, horses and mules to the
number of 3,000 died from iU-usage and starvation, choking
the trail with their carcases, and many men became discouraged
and returned home.
When Strickland arrived at Lake Bennett, Inspector Harper
had completed four boats and had already departed for Daw-
son, the new town at the mouth of the Klondyke. Head winds
detained Strickland until October i, when he left for Tagish,
the customs post at the foot of the lake of that name, which
he reached after five days' hard pulling against head winds.
He built quarters for his men and settled them down to their
hard winter's work.
On October 8 the Hon. Clifford Sifton arrived at Skagway
accompanied by a large staff of officials, including Major Walsh,
late of the Mounted Police, recently appointed commissioner
of the Yukon Territory, Mr. Justice McGuire, of the Supreme
Court of the North West Territory, Mr. King, chief astronomer,
Mr. Ogilvie, F.R.G.S., Mr. Fred Wade, legal adviser, and
Inspector Wood, a large party of Mounted Police, dog drivers,
100 train dogs and a considerable quantity of stores. Mr.
William Ogilvie was an able surveyor and explorer, who had
been employed on the survey of the Alaskan boundary and,
when required, in surveying mining claims. Judge McGuire,
Mr. Wade and others left for Dawson by the Chilkoot Pass.
Major Walsh followed a few days later, but was detained by
an ice jam. At that time seventeen prospectors were frozen
in at Little Salmon and others a few miles lower down, which
testifies to the severity of the weather.
''. On January 7 Inspector Robert Belcher arrived at Skagway
Y>^ with reinforcements, and Wood left him in charge there
and started for Big Salmon, where Major Walsh was camped,
taking with him 22 men, 9 dog drivers and 43 pack horses.
At Lake Bennett he organized three parties to haul freight to
Tagish and La Barge, to be taken on by the boats in the
spring. The trip was a hard one, storms raged continuously,
the snow was very deep, almost smothering the pack horses.
OFF TO THE YUKON 291
and the temperature remained in the forties below zero. At
Lake La Barge Wood met Major Walsh returning. He had
started for Dawson, but the report of an American ReUef
Expedition with food for the Americans who were alleged to be
starving at that place caused him to return.
When the great rush to the Klondyke began I had no idea
that I should be called upon to serve, nor as a matter of fact
had many others whose experiences have been related. On
January 29, 1898, I was directed to hand over my district to
Supt. Deane and proceed to Vancouver by the first train.
There I should receive further instructions from Ottawa. I
left Macleod next morning, leaving my wife and children in the
barracks to be quartered there until my return. At Vancouver
I found Supt. Perry, who was on duty in B.C. After we had
opened our orders he took passage for Skagway and I followed
on the 6th as arranged, on board the Thistle, a small but well-
commanded, seaworthy craft, in which, owing to the rush, I
had great difficulty in securing a berth.
The boat had formerly been employed on the Alaskan fur seal
trade and was filled to her utmost capacity with stalwart men in
black mackinaw suits bound for the Klondyke. My berth
was one of three situated above the screw, in a little cabin which
had a strong odour of ancient cheese. The berths were so
small that it was with the greatest difficulty that we could
remain in them when the boat pitched in the heavy seas which
she encountered during the voyage.
The master of the vessel and his pilot were natives of New-
foundland, skilled in navigating the icy seas in the whahng
and sealing industries, and no better sailors than they are
can be found. The food was coarse but well served, and, as
there were more than 200 to feed in the little vessel, only
120 feet in length, the tables were crowded all day, only one-
sixth of the passengers being seated at one time. Fortunately
for our trio the master gave us places with him and the pilot
in a sheltered nook on the lower deck.
The weather during the voyage of 1,100 miles was very
severe ; snowstorms and hurricanes raged, and the seas, as we
crossed Queen Charlotte Sound and Dixon Entrance, tossed
our httle craft as if it were a cockleshell. The other parts
292 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
of the route being studded with rocky islands and no light-
houses having as yet been provided, we were often roused
during the night by the whistle sounding for echoes to enable
the navigators to ascertain the proximity of rocky shores.
Occasionally the boat would stop, and then back away from
some danger discovered in that way. These were made plain
to us in daylight, as we passed the remains of vessels wedged
on the rocks, a fact which caused all hands to thank their stars
that they were travelling under the guidance of expert navi-
gators. We were also certain that our vessel was seaworthy,
the hull and boilers having been inspected by competent men,
which was not always the case with the boats of our neighbours
to the south, where, owing to the harvest of dollars in view,
any old hulk was brought into requisition and put on the
K Ion dyke route. The boiler of one of those death-traps was
in such a bad state that when the ship struck a reef the shock
caused it to burst and the vessel blew up ; none of the crew or
passengers were saved.
On the way up we touched at Wrangel, a mean and squalid
spot, with the usual number of gambling dens and other
low dives, frequented by very tough-looking characters, but
there were numbers of fine men on their way to the goldfields
by the Stickeen and Teslin Lake route. Juneau was our next
port of call. The town is on the mainland and was supported
by the mines in the district, the famous Treadwell, on an
island opposite, being one of the largest in the world. It was
simply a mass of ore, which was taken out as if from a quarry,
and was discovered by Pete Deville, a Frenchman of good
family, who told me himself that he sold it for 700 dollars I
Such is the way of the prospectors, others reap the benefit of
their toil and misery.
We arrived at Skagway on February 14. The thermometer
read 30 below zero when we landed, and we struggled along
the quay against a biting blast which came roaring down the
White Pass, searching us to the bone, an earnest of pleasures
to come. The town of Skagway when we arrived had about
5,000 inhabitants. We had an office in the town, established
for the purpose of forwarding supplies and drafts of men to
their stations in the Yukon, as well as for giving advice to
SKAGWAY AND DYEA 293
persons of all nationalities. It was the means of preventing
disaster to many venturesome prospectors.
I found the office with the assistance of my friend, Mr. D.
Stewart, of Glengarry, Canada. There was no officer of the
force there, Inspector Wood having gone to Big Salmon to
meet the commissioner of the Yukon, and Perry having left
for Lake Bennett as soon as he arrived on the loth. He was
expected back any day, and returned on the i6th, having
organized two strong parties of the force, and posted them
on the Chilkoot and White Passes, with Inspectors Belcher and
Strickland in command, to establish customs offices on the
true boundary' and guard the passes. Each station was
provisioned for six months, had machine guns and an ample
supply of ammunition. The men were housed in tents, and a
cabin was under construction on each summit, which was to
be the customs house and quarters for the officer in command.
After his return Perry had to wait until we were certain
that the customs posts were in working order and the flag
hoisted, so that he could report it on his arrival at Vancouver.
To make sure of that I left on the tug-boat for Dyea and the
Chilkoot. The weather had been very stormy since the 15th,
and when I boarded the boat, accompanied by Constable
Skirving, who had come with me from Macleod, we found the
wretched craft coated with six inches of ice from stem to stem
and the thermometer several degrees below zero. At Dyea
when we were landing on the ice-covered wharf several lost
their footing and fell into the sea. Their clothes soon froze
soUd, and they had to be hurried to shelter lest they should be
severely frostbitten.
When I landed I took rooms at the hotel, and had the pleasure
of dining with Major Rucker, of the United States army, and
two of his officers, who were in charge of a large quantity of
provisions for American citizens, who were alleged to be starv-
ing at Dawson and other parts of the Yukon. Shortly after
dayhght I left on foot with some teams in the employ of a
transportation company, which was engaged hauHng supplies
and in building an aerial tramway over the summit. As we
proceeded up the pass we faced a wind so cutting that we had
often to make a rush for the shelter of a tree, or walk in a
294 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
crouching position behind the tailboard of the sleighs for a
few minutes' respite. We saw no people moving on the trail,
they were afraid to venture out in the storm, in fact it was
useless to do so, for no one could work in such a wind ; even the
horses had the greatest difficulty in making headway against it.
We arrived about noon at the stables of the company, half-
way up the pass, and, as it was wellnigh impossible to go on,
we halted there for the night of the 22nd and were given shelter,
food and a hearty welcome from the jolly old prospector in
charge. The employees and ourselves slept in the stables on
beds of straw made up in the vacant stalls to protect us from
the intense cold.
We were off again early next morning with serviceable direc-
tions as to our course. The storm was still at its height, but
many men had ventured out of Sheep Camp, a tent town of
several thousand people which we passed early, and we over-
took many staggering blindly along, with heavy loads on their
backs, some of them off the trail and groping for it with their
feet. These we assisted to find it, or they would most hkely
have fallen into the numerous holes along the trail.
When we arrived at the foot of the steep ascent from a
point called The Scales to the summit, the storm made it
impossible for us to find the hfehne which had been placed to
guide the people up the steps cut in the ice which covered
that part of the ascent, and we turned back to the camp of the
men who were constructing the tramway. It was difficult to
find, and we had almost given up the search when Skirving
called out, " Here it is, sir I " and there I found a tunnel which
led into a huge snow drift which covered two large tents.
One was occupied by the civil engineers, the other by the
labourers, cooks, etc., of the company, and two men were busy
shovelling the snow out of the tunnel to prevent the occupants
of the tents from being suffocated. We were hospitably re-
ceived by the engineers, who made us feel quite at home and
offered us quarters for as long as we cared to stay. They were
a very jolly lot of men, both British and American, who had
worked at their professions all over the civihzed world. Their
tent, on account of the quantity of snow covering it, was com-
fortable, very little fuel being used.
THE CHILKOOT PASS 295
Next morning the storm was still raging. Shortly after
I had wired to Supt. Perry the cause of the delay, Corporal
Pringle came down the mountain from Belcher's camp on the
summit and reported that they were ready for work, and I
sent him back with orders to Belcher to begin collecting next
day, February 25. After wiring Perry to that effect and that
I was returning to Dyea, I started on the back trail next morn-
ing, after the flag was hoisted on the summit, sending my
baggage on to Bennett, where I was to have my headquarters.
On our way down to Dyea the weather had changed for the
better, and many thousands of men were on the trail, packing
their supplies to the summit, or in caches near The Scales at
the foot of the big hill. The work of these men was very severe,
each one having to bring into the Yukon district at least 1,150
pounds of solid food besides tents, cooking utensils, prospectors'
and carpenters' tools, or he would not be permitted to enter
the country. Money was of httle use to him, it could purchase
nothing, and starvation was certain if no food were brought in.
This order given by the commissioner of the territory was
one of the wisest given in the Yukon, and was the means of
preventing much trouble and privation ; needless to say it
was strictly enforced.
At Dyea I met Perry, and together we returned to Skagway
in a small sailing boat. The weather, although not stormy,
was very cold, and as the tide was out we were obhged to wade
through the pools on the shore in our moccasins. When we
embarked we were soaked to the middle of the thigh, and our
clothes were like boards. When I arrived at the office, papers
had to be got ready for Perry to take back to Vancouver, and
of course I had no time to change my clothing, the result
being that next morning I had contracted a severe attack of
bronchitis, which lasted for several weeks. Perry left on the
afternoon we arrived from Dyea, and I was at work letting
contracts for the transportation of supplies to the foot of Lake
La Barge, where the boats were being built to take them down
the river in the spring. Wood had returned from the interior
on the 25th, and was soon up to his eyes in work.
The town of Skagway at this period of its existence was
about the roughest place in the world. The population in-
296 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
creased every day ; gambling hells, dance halls and variety
theatres were in full swing. "Soapy" Smith, a " bad man,"
and his gang of about 150 ruffians, ran the town and did what
they pleased ; almost the only persons safe from them were
the members of our force. Robbery and murder were daily
occurrences ; many people came there with money, and
next morning had not enough to get a meal, having been robbed
or cheated out of their last cent. Shots were exchanged on
the streets in broad dayhght, and enraged Klondykers pur-
sued the scoundrels of Soapy Smith's gang to get even with
them. At night the crash of bands, shouts of " Murder ! "
cries for help mingled with the cracked voices of the singers
in the variety halls ; and the wily " box rushers " (variety
actresses) cheated the tenderfeet and unwary travellers,
inducing them to stand treat, twenty-five per cent, of the cost
of which went into their pockets. In the dance hall the girl
with the straw-coloured hair tripped the hght fantastic at a
dollar a set, and in the White Pass above the town the shell
game expert phed his trade, and occasionally some poor fellow
was found lying lifeless on his sled where he had sat down to
rest, the powder marks on his back and his pockets inside out.
The town of Dyea at the entrance of the Chilkoot Pass
resembled Skagway in many respects, but the worst features
were to be found further up at Sheep Camp. Many thousands
of men and some women were encamped there, most of them
engaged in packing their supplies over the summit, all anxious
to get to the head waters of the Yukon to build their boats
for the passage down. Neither law nor order prevailed, honest
persons had no protection from the gangs of rascals who plied
their nefarious trade. Might was right ; murder, robbery
and petty theft were common occurrences. The shell game
was there likewise, the operators could be met with on every
turn of the trail, pushing the business to the utmost limit so
as not to lose the golden opportunity which could not be foimd
on the other side of the pass, where life and property were safe.
During the few weeks that I was detained in Skagway an
incident occurred which wiU give an idea of the state of affairs
in that place. One Sunday morning Wood and I were roused
from our slumbers on the floor of our cabin, which answered
SOAPY SMITH AND CO. 297
the purpose of office, bedroom, sitting-room, etc., by the cries,
curses and shouts of a gang who were having a pistol fight round
us. Bullets came through the thin boards, but the circum-
stance was such a common event that we did not even rise
from our beds. Wood jocularly suggested that we should get
up and take a hand in the scrap, but that was all. The pursued
left for some other part of the town, followed by the others,
who were most likely men who had been robbed by some of
Soapy Smith's gang and were trying to " get even."
A description of the box rushing business may well be
given here. In the variety theatres, the upper part of which
consisted of rows of boxes for the theatregoers, the actresses
in the intervals rushed up to the boxes and, by all sorts of
wiles, induced the occupants to " treat," or rang the bell them-
selves, receiving a small ticket from the waiter, which on pre-
sentation at the bar entitled them to receive twenty-five per
cent, of the money paid for drinks. These girls were under
the protection of the most villainous set of men that I have
ever seen. One of our contractors, a soft young man, engaged
in transporting goods to Lake Bennett, visited their resorts,
and before the wretched man had left he had paid 750 doUars
for one box of cigars, 3000 for drinks, and was alleged to owe
another 1000, which the proprietor had the assurance to ask
our party to collect for him. I told him that it was fortunate
for him that he was not in the Yukon, where he would get his
deserts if he came across the summit.
It would be difficult to describe the hardships gone through
by the Mounted Police stationed on the passes. The camp
on the Chilkoot, under Inspector Belcher, was pitched on the
summit, where it is bounded by high mountains. A wooden
cabin was erected in a couple of days ; the place where it was
in the pass was only about 100 yards wide. Below the summit,
on the Canadian side, was Crater Lake, named after an extinct
volcano. On its icy surface the men were forced to encamp
when they arrived. On the night of February 18 the water
rose in the lake to the depth of six inches. Blankets and
bedding were wet, the temperature below zero in the blizzard.
The tents could not be moved, and the sleds had to be taken
into them to enable the men to keep above the water at night.
298 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
The storm blew for days with great violence, but on the 21st
had abated sufficiently to admit of the tents being moved to
the top of the hill, where, although the cold was intense, it was
better than in the water-covered ice of Crater Lake.
The nearest firewood was 7 miles away, and the man sent
for it often returned badly frost-bitten. Belcher, collecting
customs, performing military as well as police duty on the
summits, lived in the shack, which had all the discomforts of
a shower bath. Snow fell so thickly and constantly that every-
thing was damp and papers became mildewed. From February
25 to March 3 the weather was dry and cold, but on that date
another terrific storm began and continued almost uninter-
rupted until May i ! This storm reached its height on
Saturday, the 3rd, when the snow buried the cabin and all
the tents on the summit, the snowfall for the day being 6 feet
on the level.
On the White Pass the tents at first had to be pitched on
the ice, no timber for cabins or firewood being nearer than 12
miles. Logs were cut at the nearest bush and hauled by
horses. Blizzards raged as on the Chilkoot for 10 days, and
there was great danger of losing men. On February 27 the
Union Jack was hoisted and the collection of customs began.
The guard was posted in the most commanding position, and
men were told off in reliefs to examine the goods during the
day, and at night to shovel the snow from the door of the
customs cabin lest the occupants should be smothered. The
great rush began on March 3, and poor Strickland, overworked
and suffering from bronchitis, struggled along in charge,
loyally and ably assisted by his men. An immense amount
of work was done on both passes, and thousands of dollars
were collected every day on account of the goods having been
purchased outside the Dominion. Had the miners outfitted
themselves at Victoria or Vancouver they would have saved
themselves a large amount of money. On the 20th I received
from Regina a reinforcement of 20 men under Inspector Cart-
wright. As Drs. Grant and Runnels had just reported that
Inspector Strickland, like myself, was suffering from a severe
attack of bronchitis, which threatened to become chronic if he
were not immediately relieved, I left Wood up to the eyes, as
SHARPERS AND GAMBLERS 299
usual, in all sorts of work, and departed on March 25 for Lake
Bennett, accompanied by Inspector Cartwright and Mr. Dan
Stewart. We rode pack horses hired for the occasion, as there
were no others, and had a most uncomfortable but interesting
ride up the pass. There were many thousands of people on
the trail, hauling their supplies. The gamblers and shell game
ruffians were busy taking what they could out of the numerous
tenderfeet who were on their way in. Like the majority of
their kind, they thought they " knew it all," until they foimd
themselves minus most of their dollars and, realizing the situa-
tion, began to fire their ill-aimed revolvers at the expert, who
occasionally got impatient at the fusillade and returned the
fire with fatal effect. At nearly all the places men in the
mackinaw garb of the goldseekers were to be seen " boosting,"
that is encouraging the unwary to take a hand in the game.
These and their accomplices were members of Soapy Smith's
gang, and amongst them, employed in the same way, were
others who were a disgrace to an honourable profession.
Honour among thieves had no place with these people. The
week previous one of them on his way down the Chilkoot to
Dyea, with 900 dollars in his pocket, the proceeds of his day's
work, sat down to rest. He wore spectacles, and, as he gazed
pensively at the snow, one of his own sort came along, poked
his " gun " under his cap peak, demanding, " Cough up your
pile, or I'll blow your specs off ! " He coughed up both pile
and pistol, and was told to " git," which he made haste to do.
When I arrived at the post I found Strickland no better, so
I put Cartwright in command, and sent Strickland to Tagish,
where the clear, dry atmosphere soon restored him to health.
I remained with the White Pass detachment until the 27th,
when Cartwright was well started at his work. While there I
noticed the difference in the demeanour of the people of all
nationaJities when they arrived under the protection of our
force. There was no danger of Soapy Smith or his gang ; they
dared not show their faces in the Yukon. The " gun," the slang
name for a revolver or pistol of any description, was put in the
sack or valise, and everyone went about his business with as
strong a sense of security as if he were in the most law-abiding
part of the globe.
300 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
The day after I arrived a Klondyker named Pat Galvin
called at the office. As he had walked all the way from Skag-
way that morning and was tired, I gave him a drink. He then
inquired my name, and was surprised when I told him that I
had seen him in the United States, and that he was favourably
known to the force. He thereupon informed me that he was a
partner of Mr. John Brothers, who had once served under me
at Fort Macleod and had gone to the Yukon with Constantine,
taking part later in the stampede to Bonanza and other creeks.
Afterwards, when his time was out, he took his discharge, and
had, in conjunction with Pat Galvin, done very well. The
latter had just returned from negotiating the sale of their
claims for a large sum, and was on his way " inside " to see
about it. Before leaving he asked for the names of the officers
who were working under me on the Upper Yukon, and started
for Lake Bennett. I left next day, and halted for the night at
Macaulay's ranch, and next morning early started off on the old
pack horse. The day was mild, the snow falling thickly, and
the trail was crowded with men moving backward and forward
from one cache to another, carrying their loads by stages. The
snow was many feet in depth, not less than seven or eight
anywhere, and the ancient and experienced plug that I rode,
accustomed to having a wide load on his back, would dodge
to one side whenever we met anyone, so that he could pass,
and his imaginary load would not touch him and bury both of
lis in the snow up to his withers. On one hill he turned a somer-
sault and rolled over on top of me, with the horn of the stock,
saddle planted firmly on my chest. I hung on to it, however,
and found myself in my place when the brute regained his feet.
About noon I arrived at the lake and called on Commissioner
Walsh, who was encamped on one of the foothills above it.
The situation was certainly unique, and not likely to be repeated
on this earth again. The place was busy but orderly, about 7,000
men were encamped in the immediate vicinity, and across the
river the sound of axes, hammers and whipsaws was incessant,
making the place seem like one of the large shipyards in the
days of wooden walls. East and west of us, from the foot of
the Chilkoot and White Passes to Tagish, nearly 60 miles east,
€very available nook or flat was crowded with tents. The
A BUSY TIME 301
mountains towered to 5,000 feet north and south of these
stretches of lake and river. To the west lay Lake Lindeman,
several miles in length ; to the east Lake Bennett stretched for
II miles to where it narrows at Caribou Crossing, the channel
which connects it with Nares Lake, which at its lower end joins
Tagish, a magnificent stretch. The lakes and rivers were all
frozen over.
The post at Lake Bennett was well situated for our purposes,
being at the head of navigation on the Yukon, and where the
trails from both passes unite. During the great rush, which was
now at its height, strange sights met the eye. An old woman in
male attire, breeches, mackinaw coat, moccasins, and whip in
hand was driving four goats hauUng a sled, which contained
part of a stock-in-trade for a laundry which she purposed
starting in Dawson. She had lost her husband and children,
but, full of pluck, she hoped to do well on the Klondyke.
Another common sight was that of active men, for no others
need be there, holding the gee pole of their sleds, which had
sails set if the wind were fair, and their dog or dogs hitched up
beside them, trotting along, their tails wagging with the
enjoyment of being in the same team as their masters. Pack-
trains came in for us every day, the loads being transhipped
from Bennett to the foot of Lake La Barge.
From the time I arrived at Lake Bennett until the opening of
navigation, except for short intervals for exercise and meals, I
could not leave my office, which was also my quarters. It was
a small room at one end of the log building in which the whole
force lived. The furniture consisted of my wooden trestle bed in
one corner, a rough table of boards which answered for my desk
imder the six-panelled frost covered window, another on the
left of it at which my capable young clerk. Corporal Tennant,
worked from 9 a.m. until midnight, a cyhndrical sheet-iron
stove and a few home-made wooden chairs. In the next room
the N.C.O.'s and men were quartered, and when they had
finished their meals and gone to work I had mine cooked and
served on the same table. Captain Rant, late of a British
cavalry regiment, and Mr. Godson, a customs officer on my
staff, messed with me, and occasionally I had welcome visits
from friends and brother officers who were constantly on the
302 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
move to and fro, on duty. Captain Rant was the stipendiary
magistrate for the part of British Columbia in which Lake
Bennett was situated, and was very tactful in all his dealings.
My work began at 4 or 5 a.m. each day, and at 9 I breakfasted,
a strenous Hfe indeed. At 10 I commenced interviews with
Klondykers, who came all day and far into the night, asking
advice and assistance in connection with every imaginable phase
of their lives. Sometimes they should have gone to Captain
Rant, but it made no difference, the matter, according to the
custom in the force, was put right for them, notwithstanding
how roughly they may have accosted us, which made them
eventually as polite as ourselves, confirming what has been said,
that the contact with the pioneer civiUzes the coarse mannered.
We had to settle disputes between men who had known one
another for years, had been educated at the same schools, but
still did not really know one another, nor the true test of
friendship. Some were hard, inconsiderate beings. Many
would quarrel about some petty trifle connected with their work
and arrange to dissolve partnership, and ask us to see a fair
division of the property. This course was seldom necessary,
however, a few words of advice usually had the effect of
restoring them to good humour, and all would go weU. All
sorts and conditions appeared to consult us as to what they
could or should do, and amongst them were men who had been
doctors, lawyers, clergymen, soldiers and engineers, and women
in tights — by far the most convenient dress for them — all
hurrying along the trails to the new Bonanza.
Deaths were brought to our notice occasionally, and then
we took hold, acted as administrators, kept a careful count
of everything in possession of the deceased, disposed of the
effects to the best advantage, except watches and trinkets
which might be prized by the next-of-kin and mailed them
to the proper address, with letters, clear statements and last
messages. The addresses were not difficult to obtain, for one
of the first things I caused to be done after I arrived at Lake
Bennett was to have every boat, scow and canoe numbered,
and the number painted on it as soon as it was ready to launch,
and these particulars, with the names and addresses of every
man, woman and child, the names and addresses of their next-
A LADY'S PREDICAMENT 303
of-kin, and the number of their boat, were recorded at Bennett
and Tagish in books kept for the purpose. The number of
the boats and the names of the crews and passengers were
kept, so that in the event of a boat being wrecked, or a person
missing from it, or anyone being overtaken by death, or any
other calamity, we should be able to get and give a clear
account of everything. These entries entailed a great deal
of work, which was well performed at Bennett by my customs
officer, Mr. John Godson, and at Tagish by Inspector Strick-
land.
A number of petty cases came before me, but I sent them
to Captain Rant for trial, for although all the Mounted PoUce
officers were magistrates of British Columbia, we never dealt
with such matters when there was an available magistrate
outside the force. This was most satisfactory and avoided
all friction, not that there would have been any when the
B.C. stipendiary was such a capable and even-tempered man
as our friend Captain Rant.
One day a lady and gentleman arrived on their wedding
tour ! They came by the White Pass and had sent their
baggage ahead of them to Lake Bennett by pack-train, keeping
only a small valise and no change of clothing with them, an
unwise proceeding, as was afterwards proved, when they
broke through the ice on one of the creeks on our side of the
border hne. The bride, being soaked to the skin, had to
accept the hospitality of the N.C.O. in charge, who placed
his tent and wardrobe at the disposal of the young couple.
As they could not dry their clothes, there was nothing for
the lady to do but to ride into Bennett in scarlet jacket and
yellow striped pantaloons.
During my stay I had many callers, and no two alike. One
was Mr. Jack Dalton, a leading trader in the vicinity of Haines
Mission and the Chilkoot Pass, where he had a post. His
adventures would fill several volumes of romance, although
he was still comparatively young. He had been in the western
territories of the United States in the days when a man had
to be " healed " (armed) if he had any property to protect,
and he had learned to shoot in self-defence. One of his feats
was to gallop along in the pass and shoot the pine knots for
304 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
recreation. His visit to me was to take the contract for the /
supply of our men who were to be posted in the Chilkeot^^
Pass on his trail, and a good contractor he proved to be, always
giving the men more than their allowance. When he was
with me several ladies and gentlemen dined with us, and were
charmed with his manner and conversation, little knowing
the serious trials through which the handsome young American
had passed, or the number of times he had been compelled
to defend his life at the expense of his assailant.
Another interesting visitor was Captain Jack Crawford,
the poet-scout, who had been through the American Civil
War, had fought Indians, prospected, knew Wild Bill, the
splendid frontiersman, who, as a reward for his services, was
made U.S. Marshal of a new territory after the war. Wild
Bill had a partner who was married, and one day he had to
visit some of their properties, and, as it was likely that the
trip would be prolonged, he asked Wild Bill to call upon his
wife and children, who lived five miles out of town on the
lonely plain, and see how they were. He started for the
purpose one afternoon with six rounds in his revolver. On
the way he shot a prairie chicken, and when he arrived at
the house he sat and chatted with his partner's wife. While
doing so, he noticed an octagon barrelled rifle hanging over the
fireplace, and this he examined casually, finding it loaded.
Presently the lady of the house said, " 's gang passed
here a while ago, and they will be coming back soon, and if
they see your horse at the door they will come in and murder
you ! " Wild Bill did not reply to her remark, but continued
the conversation. In a few minutes they heard galloping
horses, and a man called out, " Bully for Wild Bill ! We've
got him at last I " The gang hurriedly dismounted and made
for the door, pistols in hand. Wild Bill seized the rifle from
above the mantelpiece, killed the first five with his revolver
and a sixth with the rifle, brained two with the barrel, and in a
desperate struggle dispatched the last two with his bowie
knife, ten men dead, and he not disabled. The lady of the
house during the fierce conflict lay under the bed in the next
room with her children, almost paralyzed with fear.
Once in the course of his duty Wild Bill was insulted by a
WILD BILL 305
gun man, and a duel was arranged. The men were to be armed
with pistols, stand back to back and, at a given word, walk
50 paces, tiun and fire. His opponent stepped about 47,
then treacherously turned round and fired at Wild Bill,
whose back was still towards him. He missed him, and Wild
BiU, wheeling quickly, shot him dead, then facing the mob,
all of whom were friends of the gun man, backed towards his
horse, mounted and rode ofi. Every one of the crowd would
have shot him had he dared, but to carry his hand to his gun
meant certain death.
A few years later he was with Crawford, and in one of the
hotels of that wild and woolly region he was accosted by a
desperado whom he had brought before the courts, and was
covered by two revolvers, the fellow saying : "I have you
now, you ; you are my meat 1 " To this Bill calmly
replied that it was in the performance of his duty as U.S.
Marshal, and seemed to be talking coaxingly to the ruffian,
when all at once, without a symptom of warning, he uttered
a wild yell and sprang into the air. This so startled the
desperado that the revolvers were both fired without, effect,
and Wild Bill shot him dead.
During the Civil War Wild Bill was in the northern army
as a scout, and sometimes as a spy. On one of the latter occa-
sions he was in the ranks of a southern regiment a few hours
before a battle, and one of the sergeants on the outpost chal-
lenged anyone in it to ride as close to the northern ranks as he.
Wild Bill accepted the challenge, and they rode together to
within 50 yards of a strong body of the enemy, and were stiU
approaching, when Wild Bill was recognized, and a northern
soldier fooUshly called out in astonishment, " It's Wild Bill 1 "
whereupon the sergeant tiurned and fired at his companion
and galloped off. Bill could have shot him but, as it would
not have been a fair deal, he refrained, caUing, "Go it,
sergeant, go it I" and then joined the picket of his side, as he
thought it would be unwise to return to the southern troops.
Before the ice left I was visited by my two good friends.
Major Woodside and Dr. Good, the former a jovial editor who
had visited me at Macleod, the latter a leading speciaHst
ot Winnipeg. Both were on their way inside to see what
w
306 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
the country was like, and, fortunately for that part of the
world, prolonged their sojourn. The managers of the Banks
of British North America and Commerce came in with their
staff, and Mr. Wills, of the latter, gave me the custody of two
million dollars in bank notes, which I was obliged to stow under
my cot for safety, as there was no better place.
An interesting female personality at Lake Bennett all winter
was a young girl from California, who was known best by the
name of a coast city to which was tacked on her Christian
name. Belle. She was a waitress at a log restaurant, where
she was earning money to take her inside. Near the place
there were several men in an improvised hospital, suffering
from pneumonia, bronchitis and pleurisy, brought on by
dreadful exposure. Belle had much to do in the restaurant,
but she nevertheless found time to help the doctor, cheer the
sick and give them their medicine and food. This caused her
to be looked upon with kindly and respectful regard by all
with whom she came in contact. In this self-sacrifice she was
not alone. Dr. Grant, a clergyman as well as physician,
treated hundreds of sick without remuneration. Our force
owes him a heavy debt of gratitude for the way he saved our
men. More than half of those at the summit and Lake Bennett
had pneumonia, but were so weU treated that we lost none.
I have never seen men in such a dangerous state, and it seemed
impossible that they could recover, yet they were pulled
through. Another case of pluck and self-sacrifice came to my
notice. Dr. Sugden, who was on his way in to dig gold, was
called upon as a last resort to go down on the ice of the Yukon
to treat a woman who was at death's door. There was no other
doctor near, so he started off cheerfully on foot, diagnosed and
treated the case, which was very serious, and, to save her Ufe,
placed her on a band sled and hauled her with his own hands
the 100 miles to safety and shelter.
On April 26 I received a report from Inspector Belcher, in
command on the Chilkoot summit, that a storm which had
been raging for a week had reached its height and had buried
his cabin and the Klondykers' caches of supplies on the summit.
Six feet of snow fell that day, and the quantity there had
already attained sixty feet on the level 1 At seven o'clock next
AVALANCHES ON THE CHILKOOT 307
morning there was a lull, and large numbers of men began
packing their supplies and outfits up the mountain to the
summit, which they had been prevented from doing for many
days owing to the tempestuous state of the weather.
While a number of them were on the summit the storm
increased in violence, and, knowing how difficult it would be
for them to descend the mountain and return to Sheep Camp,
and that they could not remain on the summit and live, they
began to descend to The Scales, a place near the foot. They
managed to reach a point half a mile below the mountain, but
were caught there by a tremendous avalanche, which buried
sixty-three of them. Fifty-three perished ; the rest were dug
out with difficulty. Two women who had been rescued from a
smaller sHde at The Scales, the same day, were buried in the
larger ; one of these was again rescued, the other being killed.
The next morning the manager of the Chilkoot Tramway Com-
pany reported that nineteen of their men had perished in the
same slide. Amongst them were several of the kindly young
engineers who had given shelter to Constable Skirving and
myself when we went up the Chilkoot Pass. All the bodies were
dug out but two, which Belcher stated were found in the spring.
Although towards the end of April, it was to all appearances the
depth of winter.
When the avalanche was reported to me I requested Belcher
to send a party to the scene to be present when the bodies were
exhumed, and, although the accident occurred in the United
States, to render all assistance possible, to organize a committee
of good American citizens to see that the property of the dead
was taken care of, and make a i)oint of looking after the inter-
ests of British subjects, what property they had on them, and
the names and addresses of all. This work was well done. A
conunittee collected the effects of the deceased Americans and
was assisted by Belcher in checking over any property which
happened to be cached on our side of the border, and, on the
assurance of Belcher that the men composing the committee
were trustworthy and had proper authority to act, I allowed
them to take possession of the goods on British soil which
belonged to the dead. Belcher saw that the affairs of the
unfortunate people were in honest hands. A list of aU the
3o8 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
deceased persons was obtained and sent to the comptroller at
Ottawa and a duplicate list, giving full particulars, to Perry at
Vancouver. I also wrote to the next-of-kin of aU persons
killed or injured, no matter where their homes might be.
It was indeed a fortunate thing that the weather was so
stormy at the time of the accident, or the trail would have been
covered with people and many hundreds, perhaps thousands,
would have been buried under the snow. Truly the Chilkoot
summit was a dreadful place on which to spend the winter.
It was bad enough to live there, but to carry out the responsible
duties which the pohce had to perform was a tremendous
task. The hardships and difficulties were beyond description.
Great care had to be exercised lest there should be any attempts
to evade the payment of duties. The severe storms and intense
cold, the large amount of snow and the small space on the summit
of the passes, especially the Chilkoot, compelled the officers
in command to hurry the people on as fast as possible, lest they
should be caught in the blizzards, which meant certain death.
As careful an examination as could be performed was made of
the goods, but had it been made as strictly as it might have been
in a good warehouse or in a better cHmate or season, large
quantities of valuable goods would have been destroyed and a
blockade on the summits, followed by much suffering, would
have been the result. The work was simphfied, however, by
the desire of the travellers to push on out of the storm centre.
On April 12 I received another reinforcement. Inspector
Jarvis arriving at Skagway from Calgary with 18 men, and on
the 14th he was sent with his party to estabhsh a post on the
Dalton trail in the Chillo^t Pass, to collect customs and to
protect the numerous persons who were going in that way to
prospect. Excellent log quarters were built, and a large supply
of everjrthing needed was packed in as arranged with Mr. Jack
Dalton. There was great difficulty in penetrating the pass ;
the river was rising fast, the snow was six feet in depth and the
roar of the avalanches could be heard on all sides. The Chil-
koot and its tributaries were difficult ; they are great salmon
streams, and when the snow has gone the run begins, and it
is impossible to cross on horseback without killing many of
the fish.
THE WINTER AT DAWSON 309
On May 3, the ice being still firm, Major Walsh and staff left
for Dawson. The American Relief Expedition, which he had
expected to meet, had been cancelled, as there were no starving
people to feed. Prices had been high, but Constantine and his
officers had arranged for supphes to be treated in such a way
that everyone got his share, and no comer in them had been
permitted. In the early part of 1897 some speculators had
bought up a quantity of provisions, and the report came out
that there would not be sufficient. Eggs, which were imported
during the winter by dog trains, were 18 dollars per dozen,
and oysters were 25 dollars per tin, but there was plenty of
plain food, abundance of work and a meal ready for anyone
who chose to visit the shanties of the hospitable miners on
Dominion, Eldorado and Bonanza. The ice left the Yukon
at Dawson on May 8 and the river at Lake La Barge was clear
on the 9th. It left Tagish Lake on the 28th, and the rush
from Bennett and other points began on the 29th, when it
became general all the way down the river.
The first boat arrived from Lake La Barge at Dawson on
the 13th of the same month, and the heaviest of the work of
forwarding supplies and attending to the wants of the people
passing into the Yukon via Skagway being over. Inspector
Wood came to Bennett and the pay office was established
there. At Tagish, on May 11, Strickland was informed that
two prospectors, Meehan and Fox, had been attacked on the
McClintock River by Indians ; Meehan had been killed outright,
and Fox severely wounded. Strickland immediately dis-
patched Dr. Barre to render surgical assistance, and at the
same time Corporal Rudd and a party were ordered to run
down and capture the murderers. After a chase of two weeks,
through deep snow in an unknown country, Rudd and his men
succeeded in securing the four Indians concerned in the
murder and brought them in irons to Tagish, where Inspector
Strickland, in his capacity as a magistrate, held the usual
preliminary investigation, committed them and sent them to
be tried at Dawson by Judge McGuire and a jury. The
murdered man and Fox had been prospecting 12 miles up the
McChntock and were drifting down the river in their canoe
when the Indians, in hopes of getting their outfits, fired a
310 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
volley at them from the shore ; Meehan was killed, but Fox,
who was only wounded, lay in the bottom of the canoe, feigning
death, until he drifted out of sight of the Indians, and finally
landed and found his way to the nearest police post.
At Lake Bennett the Queen's birthday was loyally observed
and everyone was busy at the games which we had arranged.
The tug-of-war was the great event ; there were Scotch, Nova
Scotian, American and Australian teams competing, selected
from the most powerful of the many strong men who were
encamped along the shores of Lakes Lindeman and Bennett,
but in the final the lithe, active Mounted Police got the best
of it. When they hned up for the last pull it was thought
that they might be defeated ; the anchor man of the opposing
team stood 6 feet 7 inches in his stockings and weighed about
250 pounds of hard muscle and bone ; none of the team was
less than 200. Captain Rant was one of the judges, but, true
to his cloth, could not help throwing his hat into the air when
the red-coats won the event.
On May 29, the lake being clear of ice, the wonderful exodus
of boats began. I went up the hill behind the ofl&ce to see
the start, and at one time counted over 800 boats under sail
on the ii|^ miles of Lake Bennett. I had arranged to go
down to Miles Canyon and the White Horse Rapids to super-
intend their passage, and went down the lake on the little
iron steamer Kilbourne, accompanied by several friends. The
afternoon was very fine, a hght and fair breeze blowing, and
the sight, I suppose, the most remarkable of its kind. During
the 50 odd miles of our trip we were not at any time more
than 200 feet away from a boat, scow or canoe. Opposite
the lower end of Windy Arm, a howling pass from the south,
something went wrong with the machinery, which compelled us
to turn back to repair damages. We were off again early
next morning, however, and in the afternoon arrived at Miles
Canyon, a deep and dangerous gorge with perpendicular chfis
of granite, which no one could chmb, and a current which
ran hke a mill race. The water, being closely confined, worked
up into a ridge in the centre, which made the passage by small
craft doubly dangerous. The canyon was named after the
distinguished General Miles by Lieutenant Schwatka, who.
THE WHITE HORSE RAPIDS 311
when he passed there years before, did not know that it was
in British territory, and gave the names of his countr5anen
to the majority of the physical features, such as Lindeman,
Bennett, Miles Canyon. No one objects, of course, least of
aU mihtary men, all of whom in the English speaking world
admire General Miles and Bennett, but for whose enterprise
we should never have known Stanley so well.
Before the canyon are the dangerous White Horse Rapids,
named after a Finn who was drowned there, whom the Indians
called White Horse on account of his flaxen hair and great
strength. I found several thousand boats tied up at the
head of the canyon. I had a detachment there, consisting
of Corporal Dixon, a clever swift water man, and several
constables. A Mr, Macaulay had a tramway, which extended
across the portage, and was about 5 miles in length. The
carriages were hauled by horses and were on grooved wheels
to fit the poles which answered for rails. There were several
store-houses, the Mounted Police log cabin and several tents,
occupied at night by Macaulay's men and half a dozen river
men and sailors, who were engaged in taking boats through
the canyon and rapids. The tramway was used by the
steamers, which were gathering there with loads of goods for
Diwson. It was unfortimate that an accident had happened
to the httle steamboat the previous day, for when I arrived
I learned that some of the people who got there before me
had started to run the canyon and rapids, regardless of con-
sequences, with the natural result that about 150 boats and
outfits had been lost and smashed to pieces on the rocks and
10 men drowned. Our detachment had rescued several
women and children who had been in the boats. It was
remarkable that more people were not drowned.
This state of affairs decided me to take action against a
recurrence of such accidents, and I requested the people to
assemble so that I could speak to them, and said :
There are many of your countrymen who have said that
the Mounted Police make the laws as they go along, and I am
going to do so now for your own good, therefore the directions
that I give shall be carried out strictly, and they are these : —
Corporal Dixon, who thoroughly understands this work, wiU
312 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
be in charge here and be responsible to me for the proper
management of the passage of the canyon and White Horse
Rapids. No women or children will be taken in the boats.
If they are strong enough to come to the Klondyke they
can walk the 5 miles of grassy bank to the foot of the White
Horse, and there is no danger for them here. No boat will
be permitted to go through the canyon until the corporal is
satisfied that it has sufficient free board to enable it to ride the
waves in safety. No boat will be allowed to pass with human
beings in it unless it is steered by competent men, and of that
the corporal will be judge. There will be a number of pilots
selected, whose names will be on the roll in the Mounted Police
barracks here, and when a crew needs a man to steer them
through the canyon to the foot of the rapids, pilots will be taken
in turn from that list. In the event of the men not being able
to pay, the corporal will be permitted to arrange that the boats
are run without charge. The rate now charged, 5 dollars,
for each boat, seems to be reasonable.
They all seemed satisfied with the arrangement, and when
they got through, I know they were, for many thousands of
boats were taken through after that without one being
lost.
The following day I returned to Bennett. There were
many more boats on the way. Strange and motley were these
craft ; large scows with oxen, cows, horses and dogs on board,
well-built skiffs, clumsy, oblong tubs, httle better than ordinary
boxes ; hght and serviceable Peterboro' canoes, were met.
Before I arrived at Bennett, we had seen almost the last of
the great rush on " the trail of '98." More than 30,000
persons, everyone of whom had received assistance or advice,
had passed down the Yukon. Over 150,000 dollars in duty
and fees had been collected, more than thirty million pounds
of soHd food, sufficient to feed an army corps for a year, had
been inspected and checked over by us. We had seen that
the sick were cared for, had buried the dead, administered
their estates to the satisfaction of their kin, had brought on
our own supphes and means of transport, had built our own
quarters and administered the laws of Canada without one
well-founded complaint against us. Only three homicides
had taken place, none of them preventable, a record which
A DANGEROUS MISSION 313
should and, I believe, did give satisfaction to the government
of the Dominion.
On Jime 9, the trails being fairly safe, I dispatched Wood to
Victoria with about 150,000 dollars in gold and notes. This
was a dangerous and important duty when one considers
the class of persons who were still to be found in Skagway and
Dyea. The party was escorted as far as the Chilkoot summit,
but beyond that Wood preferred to take his chance with
sufficient men to carry the loads of gold, etc., which were
packed in the ordinary Mounted Police kit bags. It had been
quietly circulated that Wood was on transfer to the north west
prairies, and was taking his baggage and boatmen only. After
a very anxious time he reached Dyea, crossed the bay in a
small boat and on one occasion had to threaten to fire on a row
boat fuU of men, who appeared determined to run them down
and were only kept at a distance by the threat of shooting.
On arriving at the wharf it was found to be crowded by a bad
looking crowd of men, who jostled the escort and no doubt
would have robbed Wood and his little party had not the
captain of the C.P.R. boat Tartar, who had been previously
warned, sent a heavily armed escort of sailors, all R.N.R.
men, to meet them. He had Ukewise posted a strong party
on the hurricane deck of the ship, covering the pier with
their rifles. Soapy Smith was there, but, seeing the precautions
taken, merely smiled at Wood and invited him to stop over
in Skagway for a day or two ! The rest of the way was easy,
the party deposited the treasure in the bank at Victoria,
and as Major Perry had gone to Ottawa on duty Wood
remained at Vancouver until his return.
On July 30, when we were ready to hand over the customs
posts to that department, Mr. Clute, the inspector, arrived
and placed several young clerks in charge, but it was still
necessary that escorts should remain to support them, other-
wise there is no doubt that they would have a bad time, although
there were but few people coming in except merchants with
supphes of goods for the diggings. The customs having
been handed over, summer camps were placed and sites
selected for the winter quarters in the passes. An iniquitous
practice was instituted by the United States officials in
314 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Skagway of sending escorts with all parties who had Canadian
goods in bond. These unlucky people, although they had
only about 19 miles to go, and no place where they could
hide or sell the goods en route, were forced to pay five dollars
a day, and, as they had to pack their goods and it took some
days to do that, the expense was ruinous. The American
customs officer endeavoured to force them to take escorts as
far as Bennett, 25 miles inside British territory, but as soon
as I heard of it, I gave orders that the escorts could come no
farther than the summits of the pass. There is no doubt that
the American government knew nothing of this, which was
nothing less than extortion.
The weather was delightful during the summer of '98, and
the dayhght lasted so long for six weeks that photographs
could be taken at midnight. Many persons of note came into
the country for pleasure or profit and went as far as Dawson,
a few going even further, and returning home from the mouth
of the Yukon by sea. Steamboats had begun to run regularly
on the Yukon early in the summer, some on the upper river,
others below the rapids to Dawson. The majority of the
latter were built during the winter near Bennett or Tagish, and
were run through Miles Canyon and the White Horse Rapids
by Corporal Dixon.
The mails were escorted by our men by trail to Bennett and
thence to Dawson, the return to Bennett being by boat. The
same men had often large quantities of gold dust under their
escort on the return trip from Dawson. I went often to the
White Horse Rapids and was present when the steamers were
run through, but had only one trip down on a steamer, the only
one which was not piloted by Corporal Dixon. We were rush-
ing through the canyon in good style, piloted by a friend of
the owner, who had not asked Dixon to take the boat. The
bright genius lost his head, and in consequence the boat struck
the wall of the canyon with great force. A hvely American
waitress who stood on the bulwarks on the side narrowly
escaped death by being crushed against the rocks, as she hung
on to the upper deck to view the scenery of the canyon. I
was on the upper deck, and had scarcely warned her to get
inside, when the vessel struck with such force that everyone
AN ADVENTUROUS LADY 315
was thrown on the deck by the shock and every loose thing
was scattered about. The boat took in water rapidly, and to
save her from sinking she steamed at full speed, passing
through the White Horse Rapids in a few minutes, and was
beached some distance below in the nick of time. Every
steamer but this one was steered so skilfully through the
rapids that one would scarcely have known that there were
any difficulties in the way.
When the last steamer had passed through I returned ta
Bennett. I met there a young EngUsh lady who represented
a leading paper in the old country. She had pluckily walked
over the summit and was on her way to Dawson. When I
saw her safely on board steamer, I directed our men who
were on mail escort to see to her comfort and protection, and
did everything possible to facihtate her progress. On her
return Inspector Belcher, who happened to be in Bennett on
that day, escorted her on her way to the sea by the Chilkoot.
This, of course, in the great west, on either side of the Une in
those days, was unnecessary, but now that we have become
civihzed it is quite another thing. Women and children require
escorts just as in the east, unless, of course, they get clear of
steamboats or railways. On her return to the old land she
wrote much of her experiences and gave lectures in London,
which were very interesting. She is now Lady Lugard, and
has seen much since then, in a very different chmate from the
cool and invigorating Yukon.
Amongst my pilots on the White Horse route was a bright,
young Enghsh doctor, who had been at one time a midshipman
and had seen a good deal of hard work on a whaler. He had
taken up the work at the rapids with considerable success,
and called on me one evening at Bennett on his way out to
Skagway. I suggested that he remain " inside " until he could
leave for good and all, as a trip to Skagway was far from
advisable. He laughed at my advice, saying that he would
take care, but the next time I saw him he had two very
palpable black eyes, about the possession of which I inquired,
and learned that when at Skagway he went into a variety hall
for a glass of beer. This had no doubt been drugged, for it
made him stagger about the bar and against a big member of
3i6 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Soapy Smith's gang, who jumped upon him at once, knocked
him down and relieved him of his pocket-book. Dazed and
disordered he found himself downstairs and outdoors, where
he was accosted by a gigantic and forbidding member of the
same gang, who said to him, " What's the matter, doctor ? "
When informed of the trouble, he said, " Come up with me 1 "
and led our friend upstairs. On his assailant being pointed
out, he proceeded to administer to him a severe thrashing, went
through his pockets, restored the doctor's wealth and, taking
charge of that young gentleman, saw him snugly ensconced
in bed at the only respectable hotel in the place. To the doctor
the conduct of his protector was quite inexplicable, but when
he learnt next morning that the man had been a typhoid
patient of his during the previous autumn, he reahzed that he
owed it to gratitude.
CHAPTER XVI
I am honoured by the government — Gold claims at Atlin Lake —
Mr. Ogilvie appointed commissioner — Our quarters at Dawson —
Our force increased — Dawson City — Typhoid and scurvy — ^The
Board of Health — ^Methods of raising money — A busy day — The
mails — The utility of the force — Foreigners in the Yxikon — ^A
" scoop " thwarted — A distressed damsel — Hard labour on the
wood pile — ^The criminal classes — Gold mining in the winter —
Heavy work — A cosmopolitan population — Dr. Good kept busy —
A " natural bom colonel " — The new royalty system — Changes
in the force — I leave the Yukon — ^My work in the territory — A
hearty send-off — An ingenious expedient — Skagway changed —
The end of Soapy Smith — ^Home again — ^Montreal — The beginning
of the South African war.
ON July 7, the government did me the honour of
appomting me one of the members of the coimcil of
the Yukon Territory, which had by a recent act of
parhament been separated from the North West
Territory. I was also put in command of the N.W.M.P. in
the Yukon Territory and British Columbia, promoted to
Lieutenant Colonel, and given the thanks of the Governor
Greneral in Council for the work done since I came to the
north. I was also much gratified by the promotion of
Inspector Wood to a majority and the rank of superintendent.
Later on in the same month I heard of the discovery of gold
near Athn Lake, B.C. Several prospectors had gone there
in the winter over the ice of Tagish Lake, and, crossing the
divide between it and Athn, found gold on Pine Creek, on the
opposite side of the lake. Under the impression that the find
was in the Yukon Territory, they staked their claims in
accordance with the Yukon mining laws and recorded them
with Inspector Strickland at Tagish. Having doubts of the
accuracy of their contention I sent Strickland to Athn Lake
by canoe to ascertain if possible its true position.
Shortly after his departure I noticed signs of a stampede
to the lake being organized, and, fearing that there would be
317
3i8 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
some confusion and difficulty for both the Dominion and
provincial governments, I set ofi on the Kilbourne with Captain
Rant, who would have to administer the laws of the province
if the diggings proved to be in British Columbia, and an
escort of the force, and steamed up the Tagish Lake.
At the mouth of the Toochi Creek we met Strickland return-
ing in his canoe. He had been to Pine Creek and was under
the impression that it was in the Yukon Territory. We
continued our way, however, and 70 miles from Tagish reached
Athn Creek. The stream was so swift that the Kilbourne, in
spite of all the steam we could crowd on, could not pass up,
and we were obhged to land and walk over the portage to
Atlin Lake. After a careful study of the situation and con-
sultation with Rant, I came to the conclusion that we were
well within the boundary of British Columbia. On my
return to Lake Bennett, at the request of Captain Rant, I sent
Sergeant Davis and Constable Woodhouse to Athn to estabhsh
a post and maintain order, for as the mining claims had been
staked and recorded under the laws of the Yukon, which
permitted a much larger area than the regulations of British
Columbia, there was danger of a conflict unless some of the
force were posted there. A recorder was sent with them by
Captain Rant, and matters were soon amicably settled.
A short time after the clean-up of the claims in the Dawson
district, Pat Galvin returned on his way to " the outside "
with a good stock of bank drafts which he had received in
exchange for the gold dust cleaned up from his claims. I
then learned why, when on his way in during March, he had
obtained the names of the officers from me, for the kind-
hearted Irishman handed over to me for each one of them a
beautiful gold nugget with the name of the recipient pasted
securely thereon. Needless to say they were all dehghted with
the keepsake.
On August 14, Major Walsh arrived from Dawson, accom-
panied by his secretary, Mr. Patullo, and informed me that he
had resigned and was on his way home, and that his successor
was to be Mr. William Ogilvie. On the 30th the new com-
missioner and staff arrived at Lake Bennett, escorted by
Major Wood. He halted at Bennett until September i.
A DELIGHTFUL COMPANION 319
whilst I arranged the organization of the force in the Yukon.
Wood was placed in command of the force on the Upper
Yukon, from Five Fingers rapids to the south, and, as there
was no officer of the rank of superintendent at Dawson, I
decided to take immediate command of that division and
district as well as of the force in the country. Wood's head-
quarters were to be at Tagish, and Inspectors Primrose and
Jarvis were ordered to join him with some of their men and
horses. I left Dr. Fraser at the Dalton trail post, as he was a
justice of the peace and one was needed there. This organiza-
tion lasted as long as I was in the country.
I left Bennett on September i with the commissioner. The
trip down the Yukon was very pleasant, although autumn was
drawing near, and the journey was much enlivened by the
stories with which the commissioner beguiled the time. He
was a perfect mimic, and his yams would have filled a large
book. He was indeed a delightful companion, a true friend
and an upright, self-denying officer of the government. The
scenery along the route was very beautiful, the banks of the
river well wooded with a luxuriant growth of fir, spruce and
birch ; the cut banks were many and thickly covered with
swallow's nests, built against the clay, and aU along the shore
a streak of white volcanic ash showed itself in proof of the
character of the mountains in the vicinity. The commissioner
knew every foot of the course of the great river, and as we
steamed onwards sites were selected for Mounted Pohce posts,
which as soon as I arrived at Dawson I was to estabUsh, in
addition to those which we had already built and occupied
during the past summer and winter.
We touched at Selkirk, the new post of the Yukon Field
Force, a provisional battahon of the permanent soldiers of
Canada, which had been sent into the Yukon during the
summer. The barracks were situated on the site of and named
after the Hudson's Bay post, which had been estabhshed there
by that remarkable pioneer of the company, the late Chief
Factor Campbell, who, accompanied by several officers of the
company, had discovered the upper waters of the Yukon in
the early forties and, judging that the coimtry was a good
one for trade, went all the way to Fort Garry on snowshoes
320 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
to report the result of his observations. What would most
snowshoe tramps of our clubs look like beside that wonderful
one of 2,300 miles !
The company had approved of Mr. Campbell's suggestions,
and he returned to the Yukon in 1852, and built the post
which he named after that pioneer of the western settlement
of Canada, the famous Lord Selkirk, whose name wiU endure
in this country as long as the world lasts. When Mr. Campbell
built his post, the Indians of the coast, an extremely bad lot
at best, were enjoying a trade with those of the interior, and
the presence of the company's post gave them much annoyance,
and Mr. Campbell, expecting an attack from them, kept his
friendly Indians round him for some time, but was obUged at
last to let them go out to hunt. The coast Indians, learning
that he was to a certain extent defenceless, attacked the post
early one morning when he was alone, burnt the place and
turned him adrift in the woods without food or any means of
subsistence. Nothing daunted, however, he made a raft of
drift wood, bound together with withes, which he cut with
his jack knife, and floated down the Yukon for about 100 miles,
to where he found a camp of his own Indians. After a rest of
a few days he found his way across the Rocky Mountains,
eventually reporting himself at Fort Garry.
We arrived at Dawson on September 5 and took up our
quarters in the post. A look round the place next day re-
vealed the fact that there was not sufficient gaol accommoda-
tion to enable me to carry on the duties of such a big district,
containing such a large number of " bad men." I had 34 new
ceUs, quartermaster's stores, hospital and offices built of
squared logs and sawed shingles. At the same time I sent
Inspector Harper up the river by the steamer Canadian with
a party of men provided with building materials and a year's
supply of provisions for the posts which I gave him orders to
construct at the places selected on the way down. He made
a good job of this, and every place was provided with men,
rations, dog-trains, food for the animals, and canoes, so that,
when the ice should go in the spring, the men could navigate
the Yukon and its tributaries. I obtained authority to reserve
from 10 to 40 acres of land round each of the posts, so that
A CITY OF CHAOS 321
we could keep trespassers and others from building too close.
Care was taken, however, that we did not encroach on
established locations.
Among other things I discovered that the work of the force
in Dawson could not be carried on with our present strength.
Guards had to be provided for the banks and escorts to
oversee the work of the prisoners. I therefore requisitioned
the commissioner of the Yukon for a reinforcement of 50
N.C.O.'s and men of Lt.-Col. Evans* force.
This I considered, under the circumstances, a moderate
request, for to have the duties conducted in a thoroughly
efl&cient manner Dawson needed a garrison of at least 100
N.C.O.'s and men, that is, a force equal to a full division of
the Mounted PoHce.
This letter met with a prompt response from the commis-
sioner. Lt.-Col. Evans was consulted as to the barrack
accommodation he would require and arrangements for
rationing his men, but later on it was found that the work
was so hard that more men would be needed, and I requested
that 20 should be sent down to reinforce them. Captain
Biurstall and Captain Ogilvie, of the Royal Canadian Artillery,
arrived in October with 9 N.C.O.'s and 41 men. The next
detachment came on January 3. A short time after the
arrival of the Yukon Field Force company a fire broke out in
Dawson, and had it not been for the Mounted PoUce and
troops the place would have been destroyed. As it was, two
large blocks were laid in ashes.
Dawson was far from attractive in any way, and most
unhealthy. It was built on a frozen swamp which had been
navigable the previous spring owing to a flood which sub-
merged the place for some weeks, the people going about from
one spot to another in canoes. It had partially dried up, but
its last state was worse than the first. Sixteen thousand
persons had been encamped on the ground before moving up
the creeks to prospect ; there had been no attempt at sanita-
tion or organization. The hospitals. Saint Mary's and Good
Samaritan, had been put in order by the Rev. Dr. Grant and
Drs. Thompson and Good and other capable doctors in the
town, and they, with the half-dozen small private hospitals.
322 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
were filled to their utmost capacity. The majority of the
patients were suffering from typhoid and scurvy. Our
hospital was full of typhoid patients ; these were in two small
log buildings in the barrack square, but fortunately some
young ladies of the Victorian Order of Nurses came down
from Selkirk, where they had been with the Yukon Field
Force, and helped Dr. Thompson, our assistant surgeon, out
of his difficulties, by their kindly and strict attention to the
sick.
The expense of maintaining the sick was very great. Cham-
pagne was 20 dollars a bottle, it had been 45 ; milk was a
dollar a tin, eggs at least 5 dollars a dozen. No expenditure
could be spared to restore the sick to health, and, to perfect
the sanitation, I recommended the formation of a board of
health, under the provisions of the North West Territories
Ordinance, and Dr. Thompson was appointed medical health
officer for the town and inspector for the Lower Yukon dis-
trict. The council met and appointed me chairman of the
board, which consisted of three members, including Dr.
Thompson. When he went on leave Dr. Good took his place.
A sanitary inspector was appointed for the city, and a thorough
investigation was made to ascertain the state of the place.
This was carried out to the fullest extent and everything done
to remove all causes of illness.
In addition to these duties the medical health officer had to
relieve numbers of people who had no means ; the worst of
these had to be sent to hospital at a big expenditure to the
Yukon government and the country. Those who did not go
into hospital were visited by the doctor in their cabins within
a radius of two miles from the town, others had to be called
upon at the barracks. It was now quite clear that the Klon-
dyke was no place for any but those with the most powerful
and sound constitutions. No finer men could be found in
any country than those of the rush of 1897-8, but large
numbers of them succumbed to the chmate and the great
hardships attendant on residence in the Yukon. The council
was taxed to the utmost in caring for all who apphed for reUef .
When Mr. Ogilvie arrived at Dawson he was supposed to
have to his credit sufficient funds to meet all emergencies, in
PLEASURE MADE TO PAY 323
fact to manage the territorial government for a year, but he
was disappointed to find that, owing to the enormous prices,
the funds lasted only a few weeks, and he did not know where
to turn for more, as there was no vote to cover the necessary
expenditure. The place was, however, full of loose characters
who had come into the country to prey upon the respectable
but, as a rule, simple and unsuspicious miners, and I dealt
with them with the utmost severity. The heavy fines furnished
a large and useful fund, which in a few months amounted to
many thousands of doUars, every cent of which was devoted
to the patients in the fever-crowded hospitals. A board of
licence commissioners was formed, of which I was the chair-
man, the members being Mr. Wills, manager of the Bank of
Commerce, Mr. Davis, collector of customs, and Inspector
Belcher, secretary. All saloons, dance-halls, wayside inns and
other places where intoxicating liquor was sold had to pay for
licences to carry on their business. We were all too busy to
hold our meetings in the day time ; 10 p.m. was our usual
hour, and our services were given free, for we wanted to be
sure that the work of our country was the best that Canadians
could give. The only charges against the fund were for
stationery and postage, and before winter was over we had
collected about 90,000 dollars, the cost of which to the public
was only 75 dollars !
During this time our good commissioner, too pure-minded,
one would almost suppose, for such a situation where so many
were " on the make " regardless of consequences either in this
world or in the next, was on a bed of thorns in his fight against
graft, which he had to keep up from start to finish. I gave
him the strongest support in my power, which was a great
deal, for I had with me the officers and men of our splendid
force, and the approval of at least nine-tenths of the people
in the district. In aU parts of the civilized world the already
high reputation of the force was enhanced by the work done
in the Yukon, which was performed by all with the sole object
of being a credit to our country.
We had great support from Judge Dagas, who made Dawson
a hot place for evildoers, and we had the fi;ie services of our
brothers-in-arms of the Yukon Field Force, particularly those
324 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
who shared our trials in Dawson. On their return to the east
they must have felt as if roused from a horrible nightmare.
Order was brought out of chaos eventually, however, but
before this desirable state of affairs came about the amount
of work done and hardships undergone by the officers and men
of the force were beyond behef. As for myself, my waking
hours were at least nineteen. I retired to rest about 2 a.m. or
later, rose at six, was out of doors at seven, walked five miles
for exercise between that hour and eight, two and a half miles
up the Klondyke on the ice and back over the mountain,
visited every institution under me each day, sat on boards and
committees until midnight, attended to the routine of the
Yukon command without an adjutant, saw every prisoner
daily, and was in the town station at midnight to see bow
things were going.
In July I had been notified that the mails, which up to that
date had been carried and forwarded by the police, were in
future to be brought in by a man from Seattle, Washington,
who had the contract for the United States mail to Alaska.
Ours continued to arrive at the coast, but, although the contract
was for a fortnightly service, there was no sign of the con-
tractor or his men, consequently, for the convenience of the
public, I continued to send letters all the simimer in charge of
a N.C.O. or constable of the force. This had given Dawson a
system of mail service two or three times a month, until the
close of navigation on the Yukon. It turned out afterwards
that the contractor had sublet his contract, and, as he had paid
no more attention to it, no mails came through unless we
undertook to bring them in. This state of affairs after the
close of navigation was serious, and to save the situation I
suggested to the commissioner of the Yukon that, as there
were about 40,000 persons without mail' communication, our
force should carry on the service by dog trains, for I knew that
our men would respond with alacrity, no matter how difficult
the task might be. The duty belonged to another depart-
ment, but, as always, they were ready to stop a gap, and I
arranged to send the mails out from Dawson on the first and
fifteenth of the month and to bring in any that were ready,
until navigation opened.
A MISHAP TO THE MAIL 325
The first mail went out on November 15, in charge of
Corporal Richardson and Constable Bell. I gave them orders
to shorten the trail by cutting across the bends and points
along the river, and to obtain the assistance of the detachments
all the way to the coast to make the route practicable for the
parties to follow. They were to change dogs at every post as
they went along and make all possible speed. This mail was
very important, consisting as it did of the official returns and
annual reports, bank reports, and drafts from the banks for
large as well as small amounts. When Richardson arrived at
the 8 mile cabin near the Hootalinqua river, 190 miles from
Dawson, to change dogs, he was on the point of going ashore
with the outfit when the ice, which was at least a foot in
thickness, on account of some rise of water up-stream, suddenly
rose and broke up in pieces, sweeping the two men and their
load down the river together. The mail was a total loss, but
Richardson and his comrade saved themselves by seizing hold
of the branch of a tree and hanging on for dear hfe until helped
out by their companions on the shore. The dogs had been
sent up to the cabin to be exchanged for others before the ice
broke up. As soon as they had dried their clothing, the
corporal sent Bell back to Dawson to report to Major Wood.
From Tagish he went to Skagway with a dispatch reporting
the accident and returned to Dawson with a description of
the trail along the river, making the distance, 600 miles, in
12 days, on foot.
The next mail went out on December i, taking the duplicated
•drafts and reports. Now that the trail was well known and
the trees blazed across the points, I arranged that for the
remainder of the winter men and dogs should be reUeved every
30 miles, the distance separating our posts. The mail was to
be kept going and coming, night and day, the changes of men
and dogs to be made in 20 minutes. AU attempts made by
others during the winter to send out mails were failures. The
Arctic Express Company's agent started one off on December 8,
but the effort had to be given up at our Stewart River post,
where Corporal Greene took charge of it and sent it on with
liis dog train.
I sent the next mail out from the post office on December 15,
326 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
and from then on from 500 to 700 poimds of letters were
carried each way, the men making their best efforts to beat
past records, the 600 miles being frequently covered in seven
days. Nine days was the slowest. A dog train of Major
Woods' used to make the 57 miles from Tagish post to Bennett
in seven hours, the driver, on account of the speed, being
forced to sit on the top of the load, or he would have been left
on the trail. The dogs were the well-known Labrador breed,
very fierce, and they had the remarkable reputation of having
at one time killed and devoured their driver. One of the
fastest stages was by the constable at Indian River, who used
to make his 30 miles in 4^ hours, running behind his team aU
the way, pretty good proof of the condition of our Yukon men.
In addition to this work of bringing the mail in and out, the
men at the 20 posts along the Yukon assisted everyone who
required help and attended to all police duties.
Quarters and food were provided for aU officers of the two
forces and other government officials going and coming to
and from the " outside." Frequently the men helped on such
of the latter as required it by our dog teams, thus being
obliged to put a greater strain on themselves and the dogs,
and as a rule these persons were grateful, but not always.
Sometimes people were found in lonely cabins lying almost
at the point of death, through exposure or scurvy. These
unfortunates were picked up and given the most kindly
attention until placed in hospitals or nursed back to health in
the Mounted Police huts. Many whose circumstances com-
pelled them to leave the Yukon for the " outside," and perhaps
had no means, were fed and lodged as they passed out along
the icy trail. These were expected to do an hour's good
chopping in return for the work done for them. Several of
the criminal class, driven to the last extremity, but against
whom there was no charge, found their way out in this manner,
a very good thing for the country. They had made Skagway
and Dyea as bad as could be, but found Dawson very different,
the strict watch kept upon them making it wellnigh impossible
for them to commit crime and escape detection.
The majority of the people in the country were orderly and
many were refined and well-educated persons, but there were
A WOMAN ' JOURNALIST'S MISTAKE 327
considerable numbers of foreigners who, although doing well
and given the protection of the best laws in the world, had not
the decency to abstain from abusing the form of government
of the country which gave them the privilege of digging out
its gold without receiving any appreciable benefit. Canada
had but few of her sons in the Yukon ; four-fifths of the people
were foreigners, and the royalty on the gold did not pay the
expenses of the government of the territory or of the protec-
tion afforded. Some of the people objected to Royalty in
general, did not hke monarchs, and would speak shghtingly of
ours. One of those was an actor in the theatres in Dawson,
and when his conduct was reported by the sergeant he was
given an opportunity to say he would sin no more or take his
ticket for the outside. This had the desired effect.
We had in our cells a white man and some Indians awaiting
execution. As All Saints' Day was a religious holiday and
festival, Mr. Justice Dugas decided that the executions,
which were set for that date, could not take effect, and he
reprieved the condemned men until he could hear from Ottawa.
As he had only arrived at the decision late on the night of
October 31, the news did not become known until late on
the morning of November i. There was at that time in Dawson
an enterprising young lady who represented a leading Toronto
daily. As she wished to make a " scoop," she wrote out a full
and complete description of the execution and sent it off by the
mail going out that morning. When she heard of the postpone-
ment she came to me in tears, imploring me to help her in her
difficulty. The mail had to be overtaken, and, as it was several
hours on the way to the coast, there was no time to be lost.
A dog train was secured, and after a fast run of 30 miles the
offending report was captured and brought back for future use,
much to the relief of the distressed damsel. The men were
executed on the following August 4.
Christmas passed off in a very Hvely manner, but, despite
the large quantities of hquor consumed, there was no trouble.
The days were now very short, one might say that there was no
dayhght. For 27 days of January the sun was not seen and
lamps were hghted all day. The escorts for the prisoners had
no sinecure, for there were as yet no walls to prevent escapes.
328 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
and lanterns had to be carried, but, in spite of these drawbacks,
and although there were about 50 prisoners to guard while
at work out of doors sawing wood, there were no escapes.
One man made a bolt, and started for the town so as to escape
the rifles of the escort, who could not fire lest any of the people
might be struck by a bullet, and he finally took to the ice of the
river, but was recaptured about 10 miles down on his way to
Alaska.
It was not with darkness alone that we had to contend.
We had the intensely cold weather of the Yukon, always during
the winter about 30 below zero at noon and often 60 to 70
below at night, but it did not deter anyone from going about
his usual work. During my walks for exercise I do not remem-
ber a morning in which the trail to the creeks was not weU
crowded with men, and often healthy, active women and girls
were met.
The quantities of firewood consumed in barracks and
government ofiices were enormous. Fires had to be kept up
all night except in my quarters, and the absence of it was for
self-preservation, for, had my stove caught fire, I should not
have been able to escape, as it was between me and the door.
I preferred to have the water bucket frozen to the bottom every
night. This was a regular occurrence, although my fire did
not go out until about 3 a.m., and was replenished and lighted
at 6. One can form some idea of the amount of wood consumed
when I say that the Mounted PoUce and government used
nearly 1000 cords, equal to a pile of fuel almost 8,000 feet
long, 4 feet high and 4 feet wide, aU of which was sawn into
stove lengths by the prisoners ! They hated the " wood pile,"
if possible, more than they did their escorts. That wood pile
was the talk of the town, and kept 50 or more of the toughs
of Dawson busy every day.
These prisoners were under the supervision of my provost.
Corporal Tweedy, one of the best N.C.O.'s that I have known.
He is now an officer in the South African Constabulary, and has
been for several years an authority there on aU police matters.
He was a terror to all evildoers and, no matter how they
boasted of what they " would do to him," one glance of his
keen eyes or a grip of his weU-skiUed hand was sufiicient.
OUR DETECTIVES BUSY 329
I used to see them every morning in and out of their cells,
and have never known prisoners kept in a better state of
discipline. The Yukon Field Force guarded them during the
day in turn with our men, and also furnished guards for the
banks, while Sergeant Wilson had charge of the town poUce,
and with his 12 men made Dawson safe for anyone during
all hours of the day and night. The men were not put on a
beat, that would not do in such a place ; they had to be every-
where to keep an eye on all resorts, and none of the criminal
class could make sure of going anywhere in town without
meeting one of them.
The criminal class were much the same as one saw in Skag-
way and Dyea when the rush was on. Many had committed
murders in other lands, had held up trains and stage-coaches,
committed burglary and safe-blowing, or were diamond
thieves, but they could not display themselves openly. No
Soapy Smith could have lived in the Yukon. Our detectives,
who were only known to myself, obtained the names and former
history of the criminals. They were under our eyes aU the
time, no mining camp on the creeks was unprotected, and when
a crime was committed the dehnquent was soon on the " wood
pile " or in gaol awaiting trial. These were not the only
people who needed watching ; there were others, wolves in
sheep's clothing, who cheated the decent miner of his hard-
earned claims, and had to be disciphned. Compared to them
the " road agent," gallant and bold, the Dick Turpin of America,
was a gentleman. Many a sleepless night poor Mr. Ogilvie
spent, thinking of what ought to be done with these unworthy
creatures. The cormnissioner's years in the Klondyke, while
holding his high office, were one long nightmare.
The council passed many useful ordinances ; we were not
tied down by foohsh precedent, the situation was before us
and had to be faced. Nothing was omitted that was for the
good of the community. The hotels and other houses
of entertainment along the trails had to provide suitable
accommodation, and, on account of the dangers of typhoid,
they were obliged to serve chilled boiled water to all who
preferred it. The sale of intoxicants to children and their
employment in saloons and variety haUs was prohibited. The
330 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
gambling houses were left as we found them, wide open but
closely watched, lest there should be any cheating, and those
seductive gentry well knew that there was no money in sharp
games. There were worse men in the world than the gamblers
of the Klondyke. Some of them were the most charitable of
men, always ready with money to help the sick or assist a
mission, and one often thought what a pity it was to see such
naturally fine characters making their hving in that manner.
Sam B. was one of these, he had a large place and made much
money, but the sick or poor never went to him in vain.
In the winter I took several trips to the creeks. The sight
was a remarkable one, the ground being frozen to the depth,
in some places, of 200 feet, the frost of the ice age, not of the
present. The miners had to thaw out the ground with large
fires of fir or pine wood until they had, after many scrapings
and burnings, reached bed rock, and then had to drift along
its surface to enable them to scrape up the gold. This opera-
tion was dangerous to inexperienced persons, and several, who
had no idea of the strength of the fumes of the charcoal, went
into the drifts too soon after the fire had been extinguished,
and were taken out unconscious or dead.
All the way up the valleys the air was full of dense choking
smoke. The spectacle was one which is not likely to be seen
again on this earth. There had been steam machines invented
which thawed the gravel and hoisted it to the surface, but
they had not yet come into general use. They were, however,
much sought after on account of the absence of danger.
These visits to the creeks were frequently made by the officers
of both corps, who always received the greatest kindness from
the hospitable miners. A remarkable change had come over
the majority of the latter since they arrived in the territory ;
there were few disputes now, and our official intercourse was
pleasant. Apart from the amusements provided by profes-
sionals, few were indulged in except by those who led sedentary
lives ; there was, notwithstanding, some hockey and ski-ing,
the latter by the Norwegians, who were obhged to kill time.
These taught many the best way to come down hills without
breaking their necks.
The Mounted Police had no time for such recreation, being
A STRENUOUS LIFE 331
obliged to take the trail on inspection tours or be in the office.
One of them was paymaster, quartermaster, a justice of the
peace and, when necessary, superintendent of construction of
buildings ; one was sheriff and police magistrate, others were
in charge of posts on the creeks where goldmining was being
done, or out inspecting the posts. Every officer was a magis-
trate, with the powers of two justices of the peace. In addition
to the duties I have mentioned I attended the meetings of
the coimcil, and at the end of the month had huge stacks of
cheques, vouchers and returns to be signed, so that payments
could be made. The whole of the government officers and
their employees had to be supphed through us, which made
the quartermaster's work very heavy.
In addition to these duties there were many interviews with
persons on aU sorts of subjects, and letters to be answered from
aU parts of the world, inquiries about relations from whom
the writers had not heard.
Every evening numbers of persons dropped in, often as late
as midnight, to see me or to have a chat with others who came
every night. Frequently I was unable to be present, but it
did not matter ; they could get on very weU until I returned.
The party was always cosmopohtan. EngUsh, Scotch, Irish,
Canadians, Jews, Americans, Norseman, Danes, Poles, Germans,
doctors, lawyers, engineers, soldiers and sailors were amongst
the visitors, and discussed the affairs of the territory and the
outside, the amount of pay dirt in their claims, their troubles
and intentions, until about 2 a.m., when they usually retired
to rest, and in winter I was in my sleeping bag by 3 a.m.
The spring of 1899 brought with it much severe work for
the garrison at Dawson, but the tough element had departed ;
at least very few of them remained when spring opened. The
city required cleaning up and draining, and the coimcil gave
full authority and let contracts to make drains and improve
the water supply. Dr. Thompson had left early, and Dr.
Good took his place as medical health officer. His duties were
multifarious ; there was much to be done, and he was deter-
mined there should not be another epidemic of typhoid. None
occurred ; the doctor was everywhere ; he inspected the water
supply and the food, and prosecuted those who were guilty
332 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
of keeping supplies of bad quality. He visited the numerous
steamers and small boats, inspected aU supplies on board,
and saw the sheep and cattle before they were slaughtered,
displaying remarkable veterinary knowledge.
As he said himself with the usual merry twinkle in his eye,
he "led a useful and active life," which resulted in reducing
the numbers of sick to one-tenth of what there had been the
previous year. There were, however, many cases of scurvy
coming in from the creeks ; on several occasions people were
carried in on the backs of our men, though often heavier than
the men who were performing this work of charity out of real
kindness of heart. The poor sufferers would be found in
their cabins, far from help, and when the patrols found them
they were brought in to Dr. Grant's Good Samaritan hospital
for treatment. That good clergyman was an authority on the
disease, and had gone to much trouble to get at the root of it.
He was unremitting in his attention to the sick, often coming
to the council to press them to do even more than was within
their power.
Amongst the citizens of Dawson was a certain " Colonel."
His coimtrymen had given him the rank unsolicited, and as
the boy said, " He came when called ' Colonel.' " On one
occasion, at a banquet given in honour of Mr. Ogilvie, the
health of the colonel was drunk. In his reply he said, " I wish
to explain how it is that I hold the rank of ' Colonel,' which
you always give me in this town, and why I have that title
instead of that of ' Judge,' which was the only alternative I
It is thus : I was in New York many years ago, and met at
one of the clubs three colonels ; one was from the regular
army, another had served with the Confederate forces during
the Civil War, the third was a Kentuckian. In the course of
conversation the second, who was a Virginian, said to the latter,
' What regiment did you command in the war, sir ? ' ' Nevah
commanded any regiment in the wah, suh, natural bawn
colonel, suh 1 ' and that is what I am — a natural born colonel I "
When the warm spring sim began to melt the snow I sug-
gested in writing that the royalty on the gold could be collected
with greater advantage to the country than formerly if the
officers and men of the force were employed as when they col-
FORTUNES WHILE YOU WAIT 333
lected the customs in 1898. The conunissioner approved of
this offer, which was not to cost the country any extra outlay,
and I posted officers and men on all the creeks which were
being worked, Bonanza, Eldorado, Dominion, Himker, Gold
R\m, and a few of less note. As it was very difficult to find
out from the miners how much gold they had taken out, and
to prevent us from being imposed upon, I directed the officers
to take the cubic measurement of all dumps of gold bearing
gravel and take an average by panning out in different parts
of them, so as to find an approximate average of the yield and
give us a fair idea of how much royalty we might expect.
This plan was just to both parties and answered very well, the
royalty being far in excess of what it would have been had the
former methods been permitted. The gold output of the Klon-
dyke that year was very great. From some of the claims it
was enormous. One young man, for his winter's work, obtained
1,950 pounds avoirdupois of gold dust, valued at 400,000
dollars, ten per cent, of which went to the government in
royalty.
Almost all gold, particularly the large yields, was escorted
to the banks by a constable of the Mounted Police and some
of Captain BurstaU's men, under a N.C.O. It was then
weighed, and the royalty deducted and paid over to the
government. After the gold was received in the banks it was
made into ingots, and I sent escorts with it to wherever the
bank manager wished, which was always Seattle, Washington,
U.S.A.
The escorts, always from the N.W.M.P., had more gold in
their charge, and imder more difficult circumstances, than
any men who have performed such duty in any country in the
world. Four men took at least five tons of ingots down the
Yukon each trip, 2,000 miles of the stream through a wilder-
ness by steamer to the ocean, then transferred it to a sea-going
vessel of very httle importance, and finally deUvered it at the
bank in Seattle, another 2,000 miles distant, and this was
always done without a hitch in the arrangements. The men
performing this duty were serving for the sum of one dollar
twenty-five cents per day. The banks usually made them a
small present, but had they employed specials it is highly
334 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
improbable that the work would have been done so well, and
it would have cost at least 500 dollars per man employed, and
even then it is doubtful if the gold would in every case have
gone through safely to its destination.
The summer of 1899 in the Yukon, like its predecessor, was
delightful. There was very httle rain, and for at least six weeks
of the season there was no darkness. We had no regular office
hours. They extended to past midnight, but we were ready
at any hour between 7 a.m. a^d 2 a.m. the following morning,
when it was expected that we would be permitted to rest. The
circumstances were such that we had to be up and doing at
least eighteen hours of the day.
During the spring several government officials, amongst
them two of the council, went to Ottawa on leave, and many
changes were reported to be on the tapis. In August the officers
and men of the Yukon Field Force, stationed in Dawson, were
transferred to eastern Canada. We were very sorry indeed to
see them depart, for they were generous comrades and good
soldiers, and had been of great assistance to us. Little did I
think that in a couple of months the majority of them would
be on their way to South Africa, and that we should serve side
by side with them in fighting for the Empire.
Early in September I was relieved by the representative of
Supt. Perry. Many of the leading persons came to ask me if I
would remain in command if an arrangement could be made.
To these gentlemen I replied that on no account would any
influence induce me to remain unless I were ordered, and even
then it would be much against my will. In spite of all I said,
I learned after I arrived in Montreal that the population, as a
body, desired that I should be sent back to the Yukon. In-
spector Primrose came and took over the division at Dawson
and the command of the Lower Yukon until Major Perry
should arrive to assimie command.
I wished to leave the territory as quietly as possible, but
despite all I could do the report leaked out and, quite without
my knowledge or desire, steps were taken to give me a grand
send-off. I was glad to leave the territory, for my time,
almost two years, was the most trying that has ever fallen to
the lot of a member of the N.W.M.P. I had done my best.
THE GOOD NAME OF CANADA 335
which the whole of the people of Canada who knew anything
of what I was obliged to do admitted was a great deal. The
late Mr. Ogilvie, one of the truest and best of men, got the
benefit of my long and varied experience. I stood up for the
credit of Canada and the honour of the force to which I
belonged, and it is no idle boast to say that at no time in
its history did the police show to better advantage than during
the trying years of 1898-9, when I commanded its fine officers
and men on the Yukon. I left the force in the highest possible
state of efficiency, and had the support and approval of our
splendid comptroller and assistant-comptroller in Ottawa,
Lt.-Col. White and Mr. L. Fortescue. I could say too that,
although I had perhaps half a dozen enemies from an officer's
point of view, I had on my side every honest man of the thou-
sands in the Yukon, and my foes had not a single supporter.
They went to Dawson " on the make," and dragged the good
name of Canada in the mire, and they were my enemies be-
cause, through my influence and support of the commissioner,
their efforts to bring the force down with them failed.
Shortly after I received orders to leave for the east, Judge
Dugas, Lt.-Col. Evans and several prominent men came in
the evening to bid me an informal farewell.
On September 26 I took passage on one of the steamers for
White Horse Rapids. I was surprised to find that many
thousands of people had assembled from the creeks and every
part of Dawson to give me a parting cheer. Every wharf,
steamboat and point of vantage was packed with people.
Many personal friends came on deck to shake hands, amongst
them the commissioner, the judge. Major Woodside, Mr. Boyle
and others, and a committee presented me with an address and
testimonial. When the boat threw off her lines and started
up the river, steamers whistled, and the people cheered and
waved hats and handkerchiefs until we passed out of sight.
The captain of our steamer was a smart fellow, and one day
he gave us an illustration of his expedients. He had arrived
at a rapid by moonlight, and did not care to be bothered by
putting out a line. The rapid had only an abrupt rise of
about two feet, and the pilot gave orders that on the first
sound of the whistle all were to run aft, and thus raise the bow
336 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
of the boat over the step, and when she was half-way up with
full steam on, the next whistle summoned the two hundred
passengers to the front to balance the vessel like a see-saw.
The wheel made a terrible row when it cleared the water and
whirled round in the air, but there was way enough to admit
of her passing up in the novel manner and proceeding on her
voyage.
Among my fellow passengers was a pretty woman, who had
left her husband and children in New York while she took
her annual flying trip to Dawson to collect the revenue from
the claims of which she had become possessed through promises
of marriage to various foolish fellows with whom she had
agreed to be united if they made some shares over to her.
When the papers were duly drawn up and signed, however, she
played the game on others, who were kept on the string in the
same way. Her share in the " wash up " of 1899 amounted
to more than 30,000 dollars, and on this trip she could be seen
at the saloon tables the centre of a poker game, which went on
every day of our trip up the river as soon as the tables were
cleared after meals.
We stopped at a very crudely managed hotel in Skagway.
The place had changed, and there was no more rush, in fact
the place looked dull after what we had known of it on our
way inside. Soapy Smith had been given his quietus during
the previous summer. The ruffianism of him and his gang
had come to such a pass that no respectable citizen could
mention Soapy's accomplices in an uncomplimentary way
without the danger of being murdered. To put a stop to that
state of affairs a young mining engineer with a couple of friends
went down to the pier one dark night to talk over ways and
means of putting an end to the lawlessness of the town, and
the engineer stood guard at the narrow part of the pier and the
others went to one of the storehouses to concoct their plan.
Soapy Smith was somewhat intoxicated that night, and
hearing what was in the air took a Winchester repeating rifle
and went to the wharf to kill the lot. When he saw the
engineer he called upon him to stand aside and, when he
refused, fired point blank, mortally wounding the young man,
who, as he was falling, killed Soapy with a shot from his
THE END OF SOAPY SMITH 337
revolver. The other men rushed out at them and alarmed the
town, and the people, hearing that Soapy Smith was dead,
seized every one of his gang and took them to a clump of trees
to hang them, when the troops interfered and took them in
charge. Photographs were taken of them before they were
sent to Sitka for trial, and amongst them was the marshal,
whose duty it was to keep order in the place.
Eventually I reached Montreal, where I met my wife and
family. My wife had suffered much inconvenience since I left
for the Yukon. The children had been ill several times and
the house in quarantine. It had first been decided that she
should join me in the Klondyke, but, as my stay there was
not to be more than two years at the longest, we decided that
it would be better for her to go to Montreal, where she would
be within easy reach of her relatives and mine.
At Montreal theatres, parties, concerts, etc., were all the
go, but war was in the air, and the feeling in the city was
intense, and was, of course, increased by the sailing of the first
contingent a few days after I arrived ; but there was at that
time no talk of any other.
CHAPTER XVII
The Canadian Mounted Rifles — ^The Royal Canadian Dragoons —
Strathcona's Horse — Recruiting — An offer from Arizona — The
corps complete — A farewell banquet — ^We sail for South Africa —
A letter from Lord Strathcona — Arrival at Cape Towm — Our first
job — Kosi Bay — ^The plan miscarries — We join General Buller —
A reinforcement from Canada — Our general utility — Sir Redvers
Buller — ^White flag incidents — Slanders on the corps — Looting —
We join General French's column — Lord Dundonald — Pretoria —
A tribute to the corps — ^Varied duties — Major General Baden-
Powell — Our recall — Lord Kitchener's tribute — More slanders
on the corps — England — A warm welcome — King Edward presents
us with colours — Lord Strathcona's hospitality — Banquets and
sight-seeing — Mr. Joseph Chamberlain — Our last night in England
-^ur return to Canada — ^Lord Strathcona's generosity — Promo-
tions and decorations — The South African Constabulary.
TWO months after the first Canadian contingent had
sailed for South Africa I heard that it was likely
that a mounted corps would be sent to the war.
As the Mounted Police might form part of the con-
tingent I should stand a good chance of being accepted if I
wished to volunteer. I placed my name on the list, and in a
few days was told to report at Ottawa. When I was presented
to the G.O.C. he mformed me that the Canadian government
had directed him to raise, for special service in South Africa, a
four squadron regiment of mounted riflemen.
He intended to give the command to an officer who was
already in South Africa, I was offered the appointment of
second in command. I was to organize the regiment in every
particular, except with regard to recommending the officers,
and take it to the theatre of war. Three of the squadrons
were to be commanded by officers of the permanent force, and
the fourth by an officer of the N.W.M.P. Inspectors were to be
offered lieutenancies and the quartermaster's billet, whilst
the permanent force would provide the adjutant, and the
338
I ACCEPT A COMMAND 339
transport officer would come from the west. Half of the
N.C.O.'s and men would be taken from the permanent force
and the militia cavalry, and the remainder from the Mounted
PoHce and stock ranches,
I decided that the arrangement would be unfair to the
N.W.M.P., which was more than double the strength of the
permanent cavalry, and had for many years been highly trained
in all that goes to make a first-class mounted rifle corps. I
felt, too, that in such a mixed regiment I should be only a
fifth wheel to the coach, so I declined the offer.
I was recalled the next day and informed that two regiments
of two squadrons each were to be formed, one in the east and
the other in the west. Thej' were subsequently styled respect-
ively the Royal Canadian Dragoons and the ist Canadian
Moimted Rifles. I was to be offered the command of the
western regiment, which I accepted. Having been gazetted,
I was on the point of proceeding west to organize the corps,
when of my own accord and for reasons of my own I gave up
the command and was appointed second. Lt.-Col. Herchmer
was appointed to command the corps, and I proceeded west
to assist in the organization. I visited Medicine Hat, Calgary
and Macleod, to inspect the men and horses, both of which were
of first-class quality. The men were expert horsemen and
good shots, several were experienced scouts. The staff and
the majority of the officers and N.C.O.'s were members of the
Mounted Police. Half of the men also were from the force,
and the remainder of all ranks were trained military men, and
the owners and employees of the horse and cattle ranches of
the North West Territory.
When the organization was completed we proceeded to
Winnipeg, the city of hospitality, and from thence on to
Ottawa, where Lady Minto presented us with guidons.
I went on to HaHfax, and had been there only two days
when Sir Frederick Borden, minister of militia, telegraphed
for me to return to Ottawa to raise and command a corps of
mounted riflemen for Lord Strathcona, who was sending a
regiment to South Africa at his own expense. I was to be
allowed to take with me any officers and men of the Mounted
Police who had volunteered for the service and could be
340 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
spared from their duties, and I could have the services of the
remainder to recruit the corps.
One squadron was to be raised in Manitoba, another in the
North West Territory, and the third in British Columbia ;
the whole of the saddlery, clothing, transport waggons, and
many other articles of equipment had to be manufactured.
The horses had to be purchased at the very worst time of the
year, and were to be cow-horses, that is, animals trained in
round-up and all range work. Recruits were not wanting;
one could have got thousands of the best men in Canada. I
had an offer from six hundred first-class Arizona stockmen.
They were prepared to supply their own arms, pay for any class
of rifle that I desired, furnish their own horses, spare and
riding, if I would take them for Strathcona's Horse. I had,
of course, to decline, but it was clear proof of what the Empire
can expect in time of trouble. One could have had the assist-
ance of thousands of the finest horsemen in the United States.
The recruiting was completed on February 8, and was most
satisfactory. On the 14th we reached Ottawa, and were
quartered in Lansdowne Park Exhibition Ground. The
regiment was cheered at every station en route. On March 6
I paraded the regiment for the inspection of the Governor
General. Our space was limited, and the snow, being above
the horses' knees, prevented me from doing more than march
past in sections of fours, but the corps looked well.
The corps was at last complete and ready to move at a
moment's notice, all the result of one month's work. During
these strenuous days I had much encouragement from Lord
Strathcona, who wrote me several kindly letters, impressing
upon me that I was to spare no expense in providing for the
comfort of the men and the efficiency of the regiment. I
could say that in every respect I had carried out his wishes
to the fullest extent and with due regard to economy, and,
thanks to his liberality and the active assistance I received
from all concerned, I am sure it would have been impossible
to find a better equipped corps in the world.
We were banqueted on March 12 at the Windsor Hall.
Many of the leading citizens of Montreal were present,
every regiment in the garrison was strongly represented, and
STRATHCONA'S HORSE 341
the galleries were filled with ladies. The mayor was in the
chair, supported by the Chief Justice, Sir Alexander Lacoste,
Principal Peterson of McGill University, Archbishop Bruchesi,
and others. All made speeches extolling the munificence of
Lord Strathcona in sending the regiment to fight for the Empire,
and the mayor duly proposed the corps. During the progress
of the banquet my brother-in-law, Mr. C. A. Harwood, K.C.,
placed my two little girls on the table beside me, each of them
holding out to me bashfully a pretty bouquet of flowers. The
mayor, in the goodness of his heart, not knowing they were
my daughters, and to make sure that I should do the right thing,
said, " Kiss them, Colonel, kiss the little dears ! " which, of
course, I did, to the satisfaction of the assembly, who cheered
heartily. In the main hall our little boy was passed from
hand to hand till his poor mother was in fear lest she would
lose him in the crowd.
When the banquet was over we marched to Bonaventure
Station, where our train had been transferred, and had great
difficulty in getting through a crowd of at least 30,000 which
had assembled there.
At Campbellton, New Brunswick, a large crowd was gathered,
and we were presented with a beautiful silk standard. Later
in the day another silk flag was bestowed upon us by the
citizens of Monckton, accompanied by an address.
On March 17 we embarked upon the Elder Dempster SS.
Monterey at Halifax. Our marching out state was 28 officers,
512 other ranks, and 599 horses.
Shortly after we had embarked I received from Lord Strath-
cona by cable the following message, which when pubUshed
on board was received with hearty cheers in every part of the
ship :
Very sorry cannot see my force embark. Have transmitted
Dr. Borden gracious message I have received from Her Majesty,
which he will publicly convey to you and the men under your
command. Have also asked him to express my best wishes
to you all, and that you have a pleasant voyage, every success,
and a safe return. Appointments of all officers gazetted ;
they will receive their commissions from the Queen. Hope
to forward them to reach you at Cape Town, where you will
342 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
find letter on your arrival. Report yourself to the General
Officer Commanding Cape Town.
Strathcona.
The arrangements on board for the comfort of all ranks
were excellent, yet our voyage was far from satisfactory.
No sooner did we get out into the open sea than, in spite of the
fact that it could not be called rough, the vessel rolled heavily,
a motion which she kept up on the slightest excuse for the
greater part of the trip. After a few days one of the horses
developed pneumonia, and from day to day many went to feed
the sharks. The greatest care was taken, but it was of little
avail, the disease had to run its course, and it was a pitiful
sight to see so many exceptionally fine animals thrown over-
board.
On April lo we arrived and anchored in Table Bay. On the
I2th I had letters from Lord Strathcona, all containing useful
advice. He sent out 150 field glasses and wire cutters, whilst
money was placed to my credit to purchase lassoes, extra tea
and tobacco. On the 13th I called on Sir Alfred (now Viscount)
Milner, the High Commissioner, at Government House.
All our transport arrangements were soon made, and we
could have left for the front at once had it not been for a
telegram which I received on the 14th, and which read as
follows :
From the Field Marshal, Commanding-in-Chief, Bloemfontein.
The officer commanding Strathcona's Horse not to be
disappointed at not being brought here. There is important
work for his corps to do for which I have specially selected it.
A further annoyance for me was a request made by a general
officer friend of ours, who was at Bloemfontein, for volunteers
from Strathcona's Horse to join a scout corps for the advance
of Lord Roberts. One of his scouts wrote to some of my
men, asking them " on the quiet " to volunteer, but they, like
good soldiers, informed me of it. I called for volunteers, but
none appeared ; however, I paraded the men and told them that
as no one had volunteered I wished to tell them that I was
pleased that none would leave the regiment. I also said that
in any case I was determined that we should not separate.
A DANGEROUS ENTERPRISE 343
We were raised by Lord Strathcona for special service as a unit,
and not to be broken into detached parties.
On June i we sailed from Cape Town for Kosi Bay, in Ama-
tonga Land. Just before we left I received my sealed orders.
At the mouth of Kosi Bay we found H.M.S. Doris, the flagship
of Admiral Sir R. Harris, commander-in-chief on the Cape
station, H.M.S. Monarch, and a small cruiser. The coast to
the north of where the Kosi River runs into the httle narrow
bay is low and sandy, and from a strip about 300 yards in
width the land rises abruptly and is steep and rugged, covered
with thick, low, scrubby bushes. The cruiser had run a line
about 500 yards north to mark the landing place ; the surf
was 25 feet wide or thereabouts, but not difficult. Prepara-
tions were made to lower the horses and swim them to land
as soon as the man who was to meet us appeared on the shore.
My orders were that on account of contraband of war being
smuggled through Portuguese territory by the Delagoa Bay
railway, I was to land at Kosi Bay and proceed with one
squadron to the railway bridge over the Komati River and
blow it up. Captain Livingstone, R.E., and his brother
officer, Lieutenant Walker, were to perform the engineering
feat. The scheme had been objected to by more than one
distinguished officer on the score of its being impracticable,
but the authorities had decided that the attempt should be
made. Mr. Roger Casement,^ who knew the natives, was to
accompany me.
Extreme secrecy was necessary. The essence of the plan
was surprise, and it could only be effected by landing at Kosi
Bay, a lonely spot. The Lebomba Mountains, which had
to be crossed, were bad, and it was therefore decided that the
party to destroy the bridge should not exceed 200. Pack
animals only could be taken. It was understood that if we
had the good fortune to blow up the bridge we should not
be strong enough to hold the place or to prevent it from being
repaired ; for this a stronger force would be necessary. In
consequence the majority of Strathcona' s Horse with guns
and mule waggons was to move to Eshowe in Zululand, as if
» He has since been noted as the exposer of the dreadful rubber
atrocities in Central Africa and Peru.
344 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
moving to cover General Buller's flank along the western
border of Zululand, and while they were at Eshowe they were
to collect supphes for the whole force for several weeks. Whilst
they were doing this, my party was to land at Kosi Bay and
make for the bridge as fast as possible. The ship was then to
return to Durban and advise the rest of the regiment that they
were to start at once in support, taking the coast road through
Zululand to Lebomba, and by that time the bridge would be
blown up.
The next day I learned that a ship had been sent to Delagoa
Bay and had returned with the bad news that tidings of the
plan had got into the hands of the Boers, that the garrison
at the bridge had been strengthened, and that 500 of the enemy
had been posted on each flank of our route.^ On receipt of this
intelligence, which the admiral had good reason to beUeve,
and as there was no sign of the appearance of the guide who
was to have met us at the bay, he called off the expedition and
we sailed for Durban the same afternoon. The abandonment
of the expedition had a most disheartening effect on the men,
and the naval force regretted the loss of the practice in landing
the horses on such a difficult coast.
I next received orders to proceed to Eshowe, in Zululand,
as soon as possible and make an attempt from there to reach
the Komati and destroy the bridge. The orders to join General
Buller had been countermanded.
We reached Eshowe, and the same evening we were ready
to make a rapid move north to the bridge, but to the intense
chagrin of every officer and man in the corps, I received by
wire orders to return to Durban by road, and from there
proceed to Zandspruit, on the border of the Transvaal, to join
General BuUer's force. I was sorry that the attempt was
abandoned, for it would have been successful.
On June 20 we joined General Buller's army at Zandspruit.
It was dark before I arrived there, and the hundreds of bivouac
* Several years later, when in the South African Constabulary,
I went to Komati Poort on a tour of inspection, and I learned that the
guard on the bridge at this time consisted of, at most, 150 men. It
seems incredible that the circumstance was not known to our people
in Delagoa Bay. It is good proof of the ability of the Boers to spread
false news to deceive their enemy.
SIR REDVERS BULLER AGAIN 345
fires were a cheerful sight. On the following day the brigade,
under Lord Dundonald, which I had been ordered to join,
marched early.^
While we were on the march Sir Redvers BuUer rode up with
his staff and passed in and out through our troops, which were
in column, and expressed himself very much pleased. He said :
'* I know Lord Strathcona very weU ; when I was in Winnipeg
on the Red River expedition of 1870, it was arranged with him
that I should go west to distribute the proclamation ; but it
turned out that I was required with my regiment, and Butler
went instead, a very good thing too ; for he wrote a very good
book describing his journey, which I could not have done."
Sir Redvers' manner was delightful. He spoke of Canada
and the pleasant time he spent in the country when he was a
young officer of the 60th King's Royal Rifles, and when he saw
my general service ribbon he spoke of the Red River expedition
and his experiences at that time.
The next day we entered Standerton unopposed, welcomed
by large numbers of British people, who waved handkerchiefs
and hats, calling out, " Welcome, Canadians ! " Before
we arrived a loud explosion was heard, and a cloud of black
smoke arose, which was explained when we entered the town
and saw the ruins of the railway bridge which the enemy had
blown up. There was also a large quantity of railway stores
in flames ; as several of the railway officials had participated
in this wanton destruction, they were made prisoners of war.
The names I mention must not always be assumed to be
those of towns or villages, as every farm in the Transvaal and
Orange Free State was named and numbered. They are very
large, generally 6 or 7 miles square, and are shown on the
maps with numbers and recorded. There are many of the
same name, and they are described thus : OUphantsfontein
No. ID ; Krokodilpoort No. 50, and so on. When the voor-
trekkers came into the country they laid out the farms to suit
themselves by riding as straight as possible for an hour at the
usual tripping pace — single-footing or racking, we call it —
» It was composed of Composite Regiment, South African Light
Horse, A Battery, R.H. Artillery, Engineer Troop, Strathcona's Horse,
Thomeycroft's M.I.
346 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
then turning at right angles to the course and again at the end
of another hour, until a square of about 6 miles had been
described. Marks were placed at the corners, and the house and
kraals were erected as near as possible to the water supply
furnished by some spruit or fontein, then trees were planted and
an effort made to beautify the place.
On the 1 2th we bivouacked at Witpoort, and on the following
day I sent Major Sangmeister out to the right with a troop to
cover that flank ; but the clear atmosphere of that region,
although he had resided at Heidelberg for some time previously,
caused him to miscalculate the distance ordered, and he went
out too far, and before there was time to warn him, he ap-
proached One Tree Hill, a high kopje which rises abruptly from
the plain. He saw some of the enemy on top of it and without
hesitation charged them at the head of the troop, receiving a
heavy fire at close range, and was captured with seven of the
men by the strong commando which was posted on the summit.
Two of the men were severely wounded and several horses
shot. An ambulance was sent for the wounded men and
brought them into camp in the afternoon.
During the following night the plucky major sent in a report
by a Kaffir to Lord Dundonald, giving him full particulars
of the strength of the enemy. The remainder of the brigade
in the meantime came in contact with the Boers in a strongly
prepared position across the ravine. I got within a short
distance and opened fire, and the brigade pursued them until
dark, inflicting severe loss. Our casualties would have been
nil, but for the misfortune of poor Sangmeister.
At Waterval Lieutenant Adamson, with 38 men and 40
horses, reported to me as a reinforcement from Canada. They
had been sent by Lord Strathcona to fill up casualties, and
were a very good lot. I posted them to the regiment at once,
keeping them in a troop under Adamson.
I learned at Heidelberg that there was a possibility of the
regiment being retained for work on the line of communication.
As such was not to our taste I wrote to our brigadier, pointing
out that the corps was not raised by Lord Strathcona for work
on the line of communication but as advanced scouts and with
the advance, as that class of troops had been specially requested
SPLENDID BUT USELESS COURAGE 347
at the time of organization, and that there would be great
disappointment throughout the corps, and no doubt at home,
unless we were kept with the advance of the army. The letter
produced the desired effect, the corps being kept well to the
front during the remainder of its service in the field.
Poor Sergeant Parker, an ex-captain in the Essex and
prominent in the Kootenay district, B.C., was killed near
Waterval Bridge. Some Boers had sent in word to the officer
in command that they would surrender to a troop if it went
out to receive their submission, and White-Fraser was sent
to meet them, as they had stated that they did not care to
come in to lay down their arms.
White-Fraser, a capable officer in the field, proceeded with
caution, and it is well that he had no faith in the proposals
of the enemy, for as soon as he approached the place the troop
came under a hot fire at long range from about twice its number
or more posted in kraals and sheltered by kopjes. He con-
tinued his advance until there was a certainty that treachery
was intended, and then fell back slowly, keeping well to the
front of his men and nearer the enemy. Sergeant Parker
and one of the privates, however, when well out to the flank,
were fired upon by a strong party of the enemy concealed in a
kraal not more than 25 yards from them. The Boers called
upon Parker to surrender, but he rephed defiantly and was
shot dead. The wounded private had to be left on the field,
but was picked up by a farmer and kept in the house imtil
medical assistance was sent. As he could not be moved he
remained there until my arrival, when I sent out an escort
to bring him in from the Boer farm, but the poor fellow died
of his wounds before he could be moved.
At Paardekop the men of the west had an opportunity of
showing what they could do besides soldiering. A band of
500 horses fresh from Natal broke out of one of the kraals
through a gate which had been left open, and were soon
careering wildly across the veldt. We had to turn out and
lasso at least half of them, the remainder being rounded up
in the usual way. In return for this service, which could not
have been performed had we not been equipped with lassoes
and stock saddles, I was given the first pick of the remounts,
348 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
50 of which I required. I thanked my stars that on my
recommendation the regiment had been provided with stock
saddles and lassoes. They very often came in useful later on,
in capturing wild horses found on the veldt and in dragging
others out of bogs or sloughs, for all one had to do in this latter
case was to throw the rope over the mired animal's head, take
a turn round the horn of the saddle, and drag the animal out by
the neck, not a hard task, for as soon as the brute felt the strain
he made desperate efforts to keep up with his captor and
plunged forward on each yank of the rope until on dry land.
On August 5 I dined with Sir Redvers Buller and his staff.
Sir Redvers had always kept in touch with Canada, and talked
a great deal of his experiences there. He was possessed of the
dry humour of a Mark Twain, keeping the table merry during
the meal and drawing everyone else out. It was evident to
me that he was held in great esteem and was a favourite with
everyone.
The story of the South African War has been told many times
over, and I do not propose to do more than string together
some incidents and events that appear to me to be of peculiar
interest. We saw much fighting, and I think proved that from
the Dominion came as good fighting men as ever played at the
great game of war.
When searching a house that displayed a white flag the
system in the 3rd Mounted Brigade was to make good the
ground on all sides with the flankers and advance, so that no
enemy could escape. The support would then search the house.
By taking this precaution there were no white flag incidents.
Very often the white flags were put up with no sinister intent ;
every house in sight placed them, no doubt they were raised
sometimes by the women for their protection, and very natur-
ally, as the kraals round the farm-houses were strong stone
fences behind which the retiring Boers took cover and opened
fire on any of their foes who approached. On one occasion
a young cavalry officer with a party of his regiment was
reported to have gone straight to a house. from which a white
flag was displayed, and talked to the occupants, women and
children, for the purpose, it was stated, of getting information.
When they were on the point of riding away, every saddle was
TOMMY ATKINS FORAGING 349
emptied, several of the men being killed outright and the
remainder wounded, some mortally, the fire being directed
from an adjoining kraal.
Early one morning as the regiment passed out of the bivouac
at Vogelsluitspruit to its position on the left of the column
we met Sir Redvers BuUer and his staff. In response to my
salute, and " Good morning, sir," he greeted me heartily,
saying, " We shall have hot work to-day, Steele ! " It was a
pleasure to serve that gallant man, a jovial, cool-headed soldier,
the perfect type of the best of his race, always where he was
wanted, always cheery. That day's action at Bergendal Farm
was a great credit to Sir Redvers BuUer, who had planned the
battle and was reported in dispatches by the Commander-in-
Chief as having handled the operations with great skill.
On one occasion at Machadodorp, as we halted to water the
horses at a long ditch, we observed some stragglers from another
corps, fellows who ought to have been under fire ; but at that
moment they came under that of the tongues of some Boer
women of the farm below the hill. There were pigs and fowls
about, which these enterprising- troopers were carrying off,
while the women, young and old, were busy screaming all
sorts of things at the " verdommed Rooineks," and belabouring
them with broom handles and mops. The victims of the
assault rent the air with their shrieks of laughter, the pigs and
fowls joining in the chorus. This entertainment was still
going on when, a few minutes later, we galloped to the front
and threw ourselves, dismounted, under cover to the left rear
of the Chestnut battery, which came forward at a gallop and
was soon busy with the enemy's Long Toms posted on the
heights of the Drakensberg, where they had been for most
of the day. Thus comedy and tragedy were being enacted at
one and the same time.
One day the provost-marshal of Lyndenberg called at my
bivouac, and we had a pleasant chat, during which he said, " I
am told you have been informed that I stated on the day the
colunm entered Machadodorp that your men had looted in that
town." I replied, " Yes, I was so informed, and reported to
Lord Dundonald that immediately after the 3rd Mounted
Brigade carried the town I had reassembled the corps in the
350 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
square, and that I saw every man fall in, and that no looting
had been done." To this he answered that if anyone had
stated that he had spoken in that way of the regiment he told
an untruth, for he had not made any such statement nor had
he any grounds for it. There was " no regiment in the army
more free from any kind of irregularity than Strathcona's
Horse."
Having taken a prominent part in the Battle of Lyndenberg,
we were still at Spitzkop on the 22nd, and the convoy returned
from Nelspruit with supplies. Their march was through a
malarial tract of country, and they had found the remains of
several of the field guns which had been destroyed by the Boers
who had retreated before us on the 13th and broken away in
that direction. The usual daily summary of news stated
that President Kruger had sailed for Holland from Louren50
Marques, resigning the Presidency to Vice-President Schalk
Burger. There were also erroneous reports to the effect that
General Botha had been forced to resign owing to ill-health,
and that many of the enemy had thrown down their arms and
retreated into Portuguese territory.
Lord Dundonald had interesting interviews with some of the
brigade on the subject of looting. Certain enterprising young
Colonials had turned down the brims of their felt hats and
put dints in the crowns to make them look like the Canadian
hats, but it was not successful, the saddles gave them away,
as we had the California stock saddle, which could not be
imitated in a hurry. There were no complaints against our
men and very few against others, for woe betide the marauder
who got into the hands of our chief ! General Buller's orders
on the subject of looting and damaging property were very
strict and well carried out ; as Lord Dundonald tersely
stated, " It is not war to loot the poor people or to burn their
homes."
Frequently, when we bivouacked, I ordered that no fires
should be lighted, as it was not worth while having the corps
under fire and having men and horses damaged for a cup of
tea. Camp fires would spring up everywhere else, and, as they
made an excellent mark for the enemy, fire would be opened
upon the column, but no shells fell amongst us. Once when
THE BREAK-UP 351
shells, all shrapnel of course, were falling, Major Belcher and I
were smoking with our backs against an anthill, and we heard
an A.S.C. man say, " I've been looking for a blasted * funk-hole '
all night and can't find one ! " a remark which caused us much
amusement, as the young man was roaming about without the
faintest desire for shelter !
On October 8, in the valley west of Helvetia, we met General
French's column returning from Barberton, and marched with
it for some distance. While halted outside Machadodorp to
let the transport pass on, I was ordered by Sir Redvers Buller
to move in quickly for him to say good-bye to us before he left
for England that night. When I arrived on the ground I
formed the regiment on foot and, with the officers at their posts,
received him with a general salute. Sir Redvers then addressed
us as follows : "I have never served with a nobler, braver or
more serviceable body of men. It shall be my privilege when
I meet my friend, Lord Strathcona, to tell him what a magnifi-
cent body of men bear his name."
At Machadodorp I learned on October 9 that we were to
accompany General French's column to Standerton, and the
next day received orders, much to my regret, that the 3rd
Mounted Brigade was to be broken up here. I instructed the
quartermaster to prepare statements of stores issued to the
regiment from time to time, and lost or missing through active
operations, these to be submitted to a board of officers so as to
have them struck off the books. However, on the nth, we
were directed to move by rail to Pretoria, and, at the request of
Lord Dundonald, who wished to say good-bye, I paraded the
regiment. He stated that he was very proud of Strathcona's
Horse, and from the time the regiment joined the brigade under
his command it had covered a great deal of ground and had
undertaken and successfully carried out many dangerous
duties. At the conclusion of his address we gave him three
hearty cheers. He was a very great favourite with all ranks
and respected for his fine soldierly qualities. Although the
work was hard, everyone of us enjoyed it, and, from the time
we joined the Natal army until Sir Redvers Buller and Lord
Dundonald departed, I can assert that our experience was
delightful and valuable. We received nothing but kindness
352 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
from our gallant commanding officers, their brilliant and
capable staff, and from the whole of our comrades, not only of
the 3rd Mounted Brigade, but from all the Natal army which
was now broken up and its component parts sent to other
columns.
On the 12th I handed over our horses to Greneral French's
cavalry, the major in charge of the party stating, as well he
might, that they were the best that he had seen in the country.
The animals from Canada did not enjoy the change, and
several of them bucked so badly that I had, at the request of
the remount officer, to send some of the men over to remind
them that they had to behave themselves. These horses had
not bucked for months, yet, strange as it may seem, no sooner
did they change masters than many of them began their old
tricks.
We reached Pretoria on October 14. I took a room at the
Grand Hotel for myself and staff to work up back correspond-
ence and prepare for more work. Two days later I was ordered
by the Commander-in-Chief to prepare for further service in
the field. On the 20th I was sent for by Lord Kitchener,
Chief of Staff, and given orders to march to Germiston by the
Johannesburg road, leaving at 2 p.m., after Lord Roberts had
inspected the regiment. The Commander-in-Chief, however,
was indisposed, and did not inspect us, a great disappointment ;
but Lord Kitchener came out of the headquarters, and when
he stated that Lord Roberts could not appear, he inspected
us and expressed himself pleased with the regiment.
At Germiston we entrained for Wilverdiend, whence with
other troops we were to march under Colonel Hicks to reUeve
Major General Barton's column, which was out of ammunition
and being pressed by General de Wet at Frederickstadt.
None of us had ever met before, but it made no difference,
we 'were all of the same sort. In giving us our orders he told
me that he was giving Strathcona's Horse the danger point,
and that I had to protect the left front, left flank and left rear.
The enemy had been reported in considerable strength on the
left of the long range of rugged kopjes called the Gatsrand.
The firing was heavy, but the march of the column was not
checked or interrupted, and we reached Frederickstadt with
A MAGNIFICENT TRIBUTE 353
the welcome ammunition and assistance. Major General
Barton at once attacked the enemy, who was occupying a
deep donga, which extended for some distance about 600 yards
from our position. A heavy fire was opened upon him, and
the Royal Welsh Fusiliers, Imperial Light Horse and Scots
Guards attacked, scattering the enemy, who suffered severe
loss in killed, wounded and prisoners. Our column remained
in reserve during the action. The enemy had his dismounted
men too far from their horses, with the result that our infantry,
in prime condition, closed with them, and many were bay-
oneted. While the action was in progress Colonel Hicks came
and thanked me for the way the regiment did its work on the
way down.
Our subsequent operations were very satisfactory, and in-
cluded the capture of 600 head of cattle and a very large
number of sheep, which were carried into Frederickstadt. On
November 10 I received the following from Major General
Barton :
I cannot speak too highly of the practical and effective
manner in which the duty assigned to your splendid corps
was carried out by yourself and aU under your command
yesterday, and I have specially mentioned this in my report
to the Field Marshal Commanding-in-Chief. I only regret
that circumstances prevented my supporting your movements
by advancing further with the main body. The capture of
the stock is most satisfactory. I regret the casualty of one
man missing and one wounded.
Private Reed, who had been captured in the Buffeldom
Pass, escaped from the enemy during the night and appeared
in our lines in the morning. The Boers, after posting their
scouts, had a dance in the farm-house where he was, and while
it was in progress Reed was placed in a chair in charge of one
of the guard, who sat before him and made himself comfort-
able with his Mauser between his knees. Reed feigned sleep,
and very soon his captor, overcome by fatigue and the heat
of the room, was deep in slumber. The door being open to
admit the cool breeze, the prisoner seized his chance, stole out
into the night, and was soon on his way to rejoin the regiment.
He made a clear and highly intelhgent report, giving full parti-
354 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
culars of the strength of the Boers and the quantity of ammuni-
tion in their possession, which I submitted to the general.
Private Stewart, one of the special scouts, had an opportunity
one day of showing his courage and determination. He met
two of the enemy at a farm-house and was covered by their
Mausers. He dismounted and threw down his rifle, but the
Boer nearest to him levelled his weapon to shoot him. He was
not quick enough, however, and before he could fire Stewart's
trusty revolver dropped him at about 50 yards. The other
fired at the same time, wounding him in the chest, but seeing
some of our scouts galloped off.
At Klerksdorp I got a touch of ptomaine poisoning and on
the return march to Potchefstroom was obliged to ride in our
ambulance, and when we arrived at Potchefstroom I was very
ill, but did not go on the sick list. Near our bivouac there Uved
the family of one of the Boer quartermasters, and my always
active batman, Private Kerr, the son of my old and tried com-
rade. Jack Kerr, City Clerk of Perth, Ontario, obtained a room
for me from the lady of the house. I shall never forget her
kindness and that of her daughters, whose husbands were also
in the field. I have never felt worse in my life ; but there was
nothing that those kind people could do that was left undone
to bring me back to health. Their behaviour gave me a good
impression of the character of the people against whom we
were at war.
One of our duties at Potchefstroom was that of moving Boer
famihes into the town from their farms on the river. The work
was not pleasant, the lamentations of the women and children
having a depressing effect upon us ; but it was better for them
to be brought in and cared for than to be left out at the farms
suffering from want of food. A heavy thunderstorm overtook
the squadron while it was employed in that way, and when
the women and children arrived they were wearing the khaki
jackets of Strathcona's Horse to protect them from the heavy
rain. A number of soldiers, natives, children and transport
animals were killed by Ughtning in the town and in our bivouac,
but none of the regiment was struck. The first detachment of
the South African Constabulary arrived there under Colonel
Edwards, who was to command A Division, 2,500 strong.
CANADIAN PLUCK 355
While at Frederickstadt the previous month I had been offered
and promised to take command of B Division if, when the
service of Lord Strathcona's Horse terminated, Sir Wilfred
Laurier would permit me to be seconded for service in South
Africa, at the end of the war. At that time we were under the
impression that it would be concluded very soon.
Soon afterwards Lieutenant Snider came into the bivouac
with a convoy of supplies from Smithfield. He had had a good
deal of difficulty fighting his way through, but by marching
at night he averaged twenty miles per diem. At de Wetsdorp
he found a number of dead who had not been properly buried,
and set his Kaffir drivers to put the graves in proper order.
His trip, in spite of considerable discomfort and responsibiHty,
was not without its amusing features.
He had, on one occasion, a train of two thousand oxen.
The officer in command of the escort was a young captain of
a celebrated regiment, who did not know much about the
pecuharities of ox transport, and one day when they had
outspanned and the oxen were l5nng at rest after feeding, he
got impatient and said, " It's time to move on, Snider ; you
must inspan ! " to which the latter repUed, " We cannot inspan
yet ; the oxen will get sour stomachs if we do. They must
chew their cud." " Their cud ! \^Tiat in h is that ? "
Snider told him, and he was satisfied to let them carry out that
useful operation.
There were many splendid instances of Canadian pluck
during the long months of the war. One day at Clocolan two
of the men, Corporal Macdonnell and Private Ingram, both
sons of good western stock, were sent to cover a ridge at a
considerable distance from the remainder of the men. They
ascended it and at the top came face to face with eight Boers,
who had come up the other side. They dismounted and opened
fire with their revolvers, while the Boers followed suit with
their rifles. Three of the enemy were killed and two wounded.
Poor Ingram, a first-class man, was killed, and Corporal Mac-
donell was shot through the body, but walked four miles to
Clocolan.
Christmas Day found us at Clocolan resting while the horses
grazed. Reveille was at half-past four, and the men were
356 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
given permission to collect some fruit and other articles. We
patrolled the vicinity, and cossack posts remained out as usual,
and a small issue of rum was authorized. The Irish Yeomanry-
gave a smoking concert in their lines, and all hands had a very
pleasant time. The yeomanry and the regiment got on very
well, and when poor Ingram was buried they sent a wreath
for his grave and attended the funeral. On the headquarters
staff we were in luck, the kind Scotch lady at the drift having
supplied us with turkey, plum pudding and a bottle of Cape
wine to drink to " absent friends." After dinner some of us
smoked ; we were, however, reduced to the black twist of the
country, and the experience of the first who tested it was
sufficient warning for the remainder, and we decided to do
without for the present.
The regiment was now within a month of one year embodied,
and, as it was the general impression that the war was almost
at an end, it was recommended that the corps be permitted to
return to Canada, for the majority had come away from the
ranches in the west at considerable expense. On January ir
when at Viljoen's Drift, I received a telegram from our depot
officer to the effect that we were to embark for Canada. The
corps had been five weeks without time for a change of under-
clothing, nor had anyone of us heard a word of news from any
quarter.
The next day we lay at Elandsfontein, and I had the pleasure
of a call from Major General Baden-Powell and Major Bird-
wood, and I called upon Major General Barton, who had
several of us to dine with him. On Sunday, the 14th, I paraded
the regiment and informed them that Lord Strathcona had
arranged for them to return to Canada via England, and that
I expected that, while in London and elsewhere, they would
prove themselves to be as well behaved in peace as in war, a
credit to their country.
On the 15th I received orders to entrain for the Cape. Prior
to our doing so. Lord Kitchener, Commander-in-Chief in South
Africa, arrived to say farewell to the regiment. The corps
received him in line, and, after the usual salute, the Commander-
in-Chief, accompanied by Major General Barton and the staffs
of both, addressed us. He thanked us for our services and
ANANIAS ABROAD 357
stated that we had marched through nearly every part of the
Transvaal and Orange River Colony, that he had never
heard anything but good of the corps, and that we should be
greatly pleased if he told us of the number of letters he
had received from generals all over the country asking for
Strathcona's Horse.
The regiment arrived at Cape Town on January 20, em-
barked at once on the Lake Erie, and sailed on the following day.
All hands were refitted with new clothing from head to foot,
and new hats were sent out by Lord Strathcona, and the men
were trimmed up to the usual smartness.
There were many lying reports circulated to the effect that
the regiment behaved badly at Cape Town when waiting there
to embark. One officer from another Dominion wrote to a
paper in that country stating that, badly though his own
regiment had behaved at Cape Town when waiting to embark,
they could not hold a candle to Strathcona's Horse, the mis-
behaviour of which was the worst he had yet seen 1 As a
matter of fact, the regiment marched direct from the train to the
ship ! Another Ananias put an article in the papers which
circulated over the civilized world to the effect that when some
Boers fired upon a party of the regiment from a house which
showed the white flag, they prepared to lynch them, and did
so, and, when a staff oihcer interfered, threatened to lynch
him ! This is sheer nonsense. There may have been men in
South Africa who would have done this, but they were not in
Strathcona's Horse ! Proof of the conduct of the regiment
under all circumstances is to be had in the report of the evidence
of officers of the British army who appeared before Lord Esher's
commission on the conduct of the war in South Africa.
After a very pleasant voyage the Lake Erie arrived in the
Thames, but too late for the tide. We had a visit from Mr,
Joseph Colmer, C.M.G., secretary to Lord Strathcona, the
High Commissioner for Canada. He came on board to welcome
us and gave me an idea of the programme which was to be
carried out after we landed. I received the following telegram
from Lord Strathcona :
Just a message to wish you a hearty welcome. Hope you
have all had a pleasant voyage. Informed steamer would
358 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
land regiment this morning Royal Albert Docks at eight
o'clock. Was there to meet you but found steamer delayed.
Hope we shall meet some time to-morrow. Colmer going
down to see you this afternoon.
(Signed) Strathcona.
On February 14 the regiment disembarked at the Royal
Albert Docks and proceeded to Kensington Barracks, where,
later in the day, we were met by Lord Strathcona, who wel-
comed us heartily. There were present with Lord Strathcona,
Lady Strathcona, the Hon. Mrs. Howard (now Lady Strath-
cona), Dr. Howard, Mr. and Mrs. Joseph Colmer, with many
personal friends. When the ceremony was over one half
of the regiment was quartered in Kensington Barracks ;
the regimental staff and half of the squadron officers in the
Royal Palace Hotel, Kensington, and the remainder at St.
John's Wood Barracks. The accommodation was all that
could be desired. At the Royal Palace Hotel, mess-room,
ante-room, the best bedrooms and an orderly-room with
telephone were provided. During the parade several photo-
graphs of the corps were taken at Lord Strathcona' s request.
Lord and Lady Strathcona and I formed one group.
On February 15 I marched the corps to Buckingham Palace
and formed up inside the grounds, which were kept by the
King's company of the Grenadier Guards. The snow had
already been swept off, but there was scarcely sufficient space
for the regiment on parade. It was made to answer the purpose,
however, and the ceremony was concluded without a hitch.
On the terrace of the Palace the King and Queen were present,
attended by a large number of ladies and gentlemen. The
Duke and Duchess of Connaught, the Duke and Duchess of
Argyll, the Duke of Cambridge, with the Duke and Duchess of
Abercorn, Earl Roberts, Lord Strathcona, Sir Evelyn Wood,
Sir Redvers BuUer and many others, were there. His Majesty
presented each officer and man with the South African war
medal, the first issued to any troops, as the decoration had only
just been struck. When this was done His Majesty presented
the regiment with the King's colours, and said to us : " It
was the intention of my late mother to present you with this
colour. I do so now, and ask you to guard it in her name
KING EDWARD'S SPEECH 359
and mine." He then handed the colour to me, and I in turn
placed it in Lieutenant Leckie's hands. His Majesty then
presented me with the Victorian Order ; the regiment pre-
sented arms and His Majesty addressed us as follows :
Q)lonel Steele, officers, non-commissioned officers 'and
privates, I welcome you to these shores on your retmn from
active service in South Africa. I know it would have been the
ardent wish of my beloved mother, our revered Queen, to have
welcomed you also, but that was not to be, but be assured,
she deeply appreciated the services you have rendered, as I do.
It has given me great satisfaction to inspect you to-day,
and to have presented you with your war medals, and also
with the King's colours. I feel sure in confiding this colour
to you. Colonel Steele, and to those under you, that you will
always defend it and will do your duty as you have done
during the past year in South Africa, and wiU do so on all
future occasions.
I am glad that Lord Strathcona is here to-day, as it is owing
to him that this magnificent force has been equipped and sent
out. I can only hope that your short sojourn in England will
be agreeable to you and that you will return safely to your
friends and relatives.
Be assured that neither I nor the British nation will ever
forget the valuable service you have rendered in South Africa.
I replied on behalf of the regiment, and the regiment then
marched past his Majesty and returned to Kensington Barracks,
and was formed up and addressed by Lord Strathcona. Photo-
graphs were taken of the corps, and it was then dismissed for
the day, and Captain Mackie and I had the honour of lunching
with Her Royal Highness the Princess Louise and the Duke
of Argyll. General Strange, our old friend of the far west.
Miss Strange, Colonel Chater and Mr. Hulme were present.
On Saturday, the i6th, by express command of His Majesty,
I proceeded to Buckingham Palace with three of the privates
of the regiment who, on account of being on baggage guard,
were not able to attend the ceremony the previous day. The
hour was 9 a.m., and punctually to the moment His Majesty
apjDcared in the brilliant uniform of a Field Marshal and
surrounded by many officers in full dress, a gay contrast to our
sombre garb. We were then ushered into his presence, and I
36o FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
presented the men to him in turn by name. When he had
pinned the medals on their breasts he shook hands with each
of them and wished them long life and happiness. They were
self-possessed and soldierlike, and no doubt felt the great
honour paid to them in being specially ordered to appear to
receive their medals, a mark of consideration so characteristic
of our late great and good King. The ceremony over, we
were permitted to depart, and from that time until the regiment
left London I had little time to spare except for the regiment.
The officers and men had a splendid time, and I did not
neglect the opportunities given me, I was never in bed before
3 a.m. and was up at 6. Moir, the orderly-room sergeant, was
invaluable and almost sleepless, for he never retired before me.
Many whom I had met in the west in the earlier days and
who resided in England called, among them Major General Sir
Ivor Herbert. Major (now Brigadier General) Paget of " A "
battery, R.H.A., asked the officers down to the west of England
to have a few days with the hounds, a delightful act of courtesy
which indicated how we stood with " A " battery. The Royal
Artillery mess at Woolwich invited us down to lunch, and as
many as possible went and received the most kindly attention
from the gallant gunners. The men were invited out and
asked to accept the hospitality of some of the most influential
people in the city.
On February 17 the majority of the officers and men
attended church, I lunched with Lord and Lady Strathcona.
The next day the theatres and all places of amusement and
interest were thrown open to the officers and men. Splendid
arrangements were made to show the N.C.O.'s and men the
sights of the greatest city in the world, an opportunity few
of them had experienced before. Guides from the Household
regiments and brakes containing 25 men each were provided
for their use. The late Marquess of Hertford, whose son
served in " C" squadron, invited the whole of his comrades
to dinner, including, of course, the officers of " C," and they
had a delightful evening under his hospitable roof.
Lord Strathcona gave a magnificent banquet, modestly
called a luncheon, to the officers, N.C.O.'s and privates of the
corps. Many leading personages were present, including the
A SERIES OF BANQUETS 361
Earls of Derby and Aberdeen, ex-Governors General of Canada,
the Earl of Dundonald, Major General Laurie, M.P., Major
General Hutton, and many other officers of the army, prominent
Colonial statesmen and gentlemen interested in the Dominion
and other oversea portions of the Empire. Lord Strathcona,
surrounded by his guests, received each officer, N.C.O. and
private at the entrance of the banqueting hall. The fine
phj^ique and hardy appearance of the regiment was freely
commented on. When I saw the men at the tables I felt that
any country would be proud of them.
Lord Strathcona proposed the heaJth of the regiment, coupled
with my name, and I responded. Several toasts were drunk,
that of Lord Strathcona producing the wildest enthusiasm,
the officers and men springing to their feet and making the roof
echo with their ardent cheering. The names of Sir Redvers
Buller and Lord Dundonald, who, in the absence of Lord
Roberts, took his place on Lord Strathcona's left, were also
heartily received, the men rising to their feet to honour them.
When the banquet broke up the men went on their round of
sightseeing.
On the 19th Majors Belcher and Jarvis, Captains Howard,
Mackie, Cartwright and I had the honour of dining with the
Duke and Duchess of Abercom. Major General MacKinnon
was amongst the military men who dined, and he gave me
much pleasure by saying that the admirable bearing of the
men of the regiment " was the talk of the clubs." During
the evening a number of young officers of the Household troops
came in to add to the brightness of the scene, one of them a
son of the house. The Duke and Duchess took a great interest
in the war and in matters connected with Canada and other
parts of the Empire.
On February 21 several of us dined with Mr. St. John
Brodrick (now Viscount Midleton), Secretary of State for
War, at his home. Amongst the guests were Earl Roberts,
Commander-in-Chief, the Earl of Derby, Lord Strathcona, Mr.
Joseph Chamberlain, Sir James WUlcocks, the successful leader
of the latest Ashantee Expedition, and Mr. Winston Churchill,
now First Lord of the Admiralty. The evening was very
pleasant, and I had the pleasure of a long and interesting
362 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
conversation with Mr. Joseph Chamberlain. We had a most
agreeable time indeed, and the next day, the last we were
to spend in London, Lord Strathcona gave a splendid banquet
to the officers of the regiment, all of whom were present.
Lord Strathcona received all the guests in the great drawing-
room of the Savoy Hotel, and presented me to them when they
had greeted him. I had the place of honour on his right.
Earl Roberts, the Lord Mayor of London, Lord Lansdowne,
Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, Mr. Joseph Chamberlain,
Sir Redvers Buller, Lord William Seymour, Sir James Ferguson,
and about thirty other gentlemen were present. The Rev.
John Macdougall, our old friend from the far west, was there,
too, and said grace. An enjoyable evening was spent, and
I responded for the regiment, and proposed the health of the
Commander-in-Chief.
This, our last, night will never be forgotten by Strathcona's
Horse. The splendid hospitality we had received, the
imiform kindness of all whom we met. Lord Strathcona's
goodness to all ranks, had overwhelmed us to such an extent
that we felt we were utterly undeserving of it all. When I
returned to the hotel there was so much to do that it was
useless to think of sleep. Next morning at 7.30 the regiment
entrained for Liverpool ; Lord Strathcona, the Earl of Dun-
donald and many friends of theirs and ours came to see us
off. After a splendid reception there we sailed for Halifax,
N.S. This was the first time for years that I felt the need of
a rest, and I took full advantage of it.
We had a very bad voyage, and, when we arrived at Halifax,
thirteen days from Liverpool and six days overdue, we found
that there had been great anxiety on the part of our relatives
and friends. We were in port on the night of March 8, and
everything was got ready to enable us to proceed to our homes
without loss of time. On the following morning Mr. (now Sir
Frederick) Taylor, Inspector of the Bank of Montreal, and
Lieutenant Ketchen, assisted by our paymaster, who produced
the vouchers, proceeded, by order of Lord Strathcona, to pay
the regiment for the full period of its service the difference
between the Imperial Cavalry pay and that of the North West
Mounted Police, which was much higher ; a bonus was also
DECORATIONS FOR CANADIANS 363
given to each officer, Lord Strathcona treating all with the
greatest liberality. This came as a surprise, for all thought
that he had been more than generous already. Many ladies
and gentlemen came on board, amongst them my dear wife,
who had been, with our three young children, a prey to very
great anxiety, as the ship was so long overdue.
We left by special train for Montreal. The journey was an
ovation ; we were welcomed at every station en route, and the
the first night at Monckton I was presented with an address
by the citizens who had assembled in a great crowd to welcome
us back, and the ladies presented me with a handsome travelling
bag, which had been subscribed for in small sums so as to enable
as many as possible to participate in the presentation.
I remained one day in Montreal, and on the 13th proceeded
to Ottawa and called upon the Governor General and Sir
Frederick Borden. With the former I talked over commissions
for a few of the officers and men who were willing to join the
South African Constabulary, a large contingent of which had
been raised and was at that date stationed in the Exhibition
Buildings. There were very few vacancies, but I sent in some
names.
When I called on the minister of militia he informed me that
it had been the intention of the government to make Strath-
cona's Horse a part of the permanent force, which it is now,
but there was no hope for that at present, which was reason
for me to prefer to retiun to South Africa. While in Ottawa
The London Gazette appeared, granting many officers and men
of the regiment special decorations. The C.B. was given
to me ; the C.M.G. to Majors Belcher and Jarvis ; the D.S.O.
to Captains Mackie and Cartwright and to Lieutenants
Christie and Leckie ; and many N.C.O.'s and men were granted
the medal for distinguished conduct in the field. The officers
of the regiment were given their honorary ranks in the British
army for life. The Canadian Gazette promoted Lt.-Cols.
Otter, Drury, Lessard, Evans and myself to Brevet-Colonels,
dated May 17.
After I had finished the work in connection with Strathcona 's
Horse I applied to Sir Wilfrid Laurier for leave to proceed to
South Africa and take up the appointment of Substantive
364 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Colonel on the staff of the South African Constabulary, which
I had been granted by Sir Alfred Milner, on the recommendation
of Major General Baden-Powell, and he very kindly consented.
Sir Frederick Borden also was so good as to second me to
the constabulary for five years, and placed me on the reserve
of the Canadian forces. I was to have sailed with the Canadian
contingent for the S.A.C., but was not quite ready, and had
to get a month's leave from the Inspector General in South
Africa.
I cannot close this chapter without placing on record my
appreciation of the honour conferred upon me by Lord Strath-
cona in putting me in command of the regiment, and my
gratitude to Sir Frederick Borden for his kindness under all
circumstances, and I can say without hesitation that all
ranks under me did their utmost to prove that they were
worthy soldiers of the Dominion and this great Empire of
ours.
CHAPTER XVIII
I leave Canada again — I stay with Lord Strathcona — ^My old home in
England — I sail for the Cape — English ignorance about Canada —
Johannesburg — The South African Constabulary — Organization —
Lord Kitchener — Kruger's house — Major General Baden-Powell's
tour — Efficiency — Promotion in the force — Negotiations for peace
— Peace signed — The Kaffirs and their arms — Lord Kitchener's
farewell — The task of the government — ^The magisterial system —
Its inconveniences — Trouble with the Kaffirs — Rinderpest — ^An
empire trip — A tour of inspection — ^The Buys Boers — Hay —
The disarming of the Kaffirs — Improvement in the magisterial
system — The census — Game wardens — Lions — Snakes — My wife
comes out to South Africa — Mr. Chamberlain's visit — The Kaffirs.
HAVING made the necessary arrangements for leave of
absence from the N.W.M.P. I sailed in the Austra-
lasian for Liverpool, accompanied by Captain
Alexander Boyd, of the loth Grenadiers of Toronto,
who had been appointed to a captaincy in my division of
the South African Constabulary, and Messrs. Bartram and
Kerr, who were going out to join that force.
When we arrived in London, Boyd and I called on Lord
Strathcona, and during our stay in town received the greatest
kindness from him. He went with us to obtain passages
from the War Office, where it was somewhat difficult to get
the officers to understand that, as we were commissioned
officers of a force which was paid by the British Government
and were going out to the war, we were entitled to our passages
by military transports. From the War Office back and forth
to the Colonial Office we went, but Lord Strathcona eventually
put. matters right, and it was arranged that we should
sail on the transport Makool, the same ship which had taken
Strathcona's Horse to Kosi Bay.
I spent a week-end at Knebworth House, with Lord and
Lady Strathcona, and met there Dr. and the Hon. Mrs. Howard
(now Lady Strathcona) and several Canadians of prominence.
365
366 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
I returned to London with Lord Strathcona, and, as the
transport was not ready to sail, I left next morning for Aber-
gavenny, Monmouthshire, where I was met by my kind and
still active cousin, Dr. Samuel Steel, then in his eighty-first
year, and his charming wife and daughter, I enjoyed three
days there, and the evening of my arrival there was a great
gathering of the family at Dr. Steel's. We had much
pleasant talk about the various changes in the family when
my father and his five brothers went into the two great services.
Dr. Sam was the son of my uncle William. The birthplace
of the famUy was Coleford, Gloucestershire, where it had come
from the north, and the name has been in the course of time
spelled Stele, Stiel, Steell, Steel and, lastly, Steele. My father
spelled his the latter way, on account of his first commission
being written with the final " e " by mistake, and never altered
it.
During my three days there I saw the tree my father planted
in 183 1, when he left for Canada to carve out new homes for
himself and his family of six, my half-brothers and sisters,
all of whom died at good old ages, one of them, not long since,
at ninety-three. While at Abergavenny I was shown over the
beautiful country, and saw much of the doctor's son, William,
who is colonel commanding one of the battalions of the South
Wales Borderers, and Mr. Henry C. Steel, of Blaenavon,
where he and his ancestors have been in charge of the coal
mines and lands attached to the great steel works there for the
past hundred years.
Early in June we sailed for the Cape, There were several
officers on board who had been wounded in the early stages of
the war and, having recovered, were on their way out to take
part in the second phase. Two of them, a captain of the Royal
Welsh Fusiliers and a captain of the Seaforth Highlanders,
had been shot through the brain, but were none the worse
for the mishap. I made the acquaintance of many of the
passengers, all of whom were much interested in Canada, but
had heard little or nothing about it until the Canadian con-
tingents had taken part in the war. I had found this lack of
knowledge of Canada and other parts of the Empire very
general in the old country amongst all but those who were
THE ROUT OF THE STOKERS 367
financially interested ; in fact, many seemed to think that
Canada was under an alien flag. Indeed, I have been told
that, when in 1897 the Canadian contingents were banqueted
in London, the Stars and Stripes were entwined with the
Union Jack round the room, and when the kind hosts were
asked why, the reply was, " In honour of the Canadian visi-
tors ! " Happily, and in a large measure owing to the patriotic
behaviour of the Dominions and colonies overseas, they are
better known now in the old land.
We arrived at Las Palmas on July 10, and while we were
coaUng the sergeant-major of the detachment of the Post
Office corps which was on board and my batman were placed
at the gangway to prevent the stokers who were on short
leave from bringing intoxicants on board when they returned.
A short time afterwards my man came up to the saloon deck
and complained to me that the stokers had fallen upon him
and the sergeant-major on their return to the ship and knocked
them down in the coal dust. The batman's appearance was
proof of the truth of his story, and, as I was only a passenger,
I sent him to the officer of the day. I was within a few feet
of him when he made his report, and saw the ten stokers come
up the companionway. As the batman related his story of
the assault one of them called him a har, whereupon he threw
himself fiercely upon the crowd and thrashed them soundly,
throwing them to the orlop deck, while the captain, a lively
Irishman and fond of a fight, looked on with keen enjojmient.
We reached the Cape after an uneventful voyage and imme-
diately proceeded to Johannesburg. The day after our
arrival, Boyd and I lunched with Colonel Nicholson, chief
staff officer of the S.A.C. We then left for the dynamite
factory at Modderfontein, several miles north.
Modderfontein was the temporary headquarters of the
S.A.C. and the depots for the reserve and " B " division of the
force, and at the station I was met by my senior staff officer,
Major Cantan, of the Duke of Cornwall's Light Infantry,
and Lieutenant Hildyard, the staff adjutant of my division,
and de Havilland, also on my staff.
The S.A.C. had been called into existence by Earl Roberts'
proclamation, and was organized and trained as a military as
368 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
well as a civil corps. Major General Baden-Powell had been
directed to draw up a scheme for the organization of the force
to police the Transvaal and Orange River Colony, and to be
prepared to take over the duties by June, 1901, under the
orders of Lord Milner, High Commissioner for South Africa.
At that time peace was supposed to be at hand, and 6,000
officers, N.C.O.'s and men were thought to be sufficient.
The Commander-in-Chief agreed to hand over to the force a
proportion of the officers, N.C.O.'s and men up to 20 per cent,
of each corps, to form it, and to equip it complete with horses,,
saddlery, arms and transport, in fact everything that it would
require to carry on its duties, including medical treatment
of sick or wounded at the military hospitals.^
In December, 1900, it was found necessary to increase the
force to 10,000, and early in 1901 a reserve division was
organized. From the time that the constabulary came into
existence until the end of the war, it was unable to perform
any police duties and was employed as a military force under
the Commander-in-Chief and constantly engaged in field
operations and on the block-house lines. Some block-houses
were built where they could guard the concentration camps
where the Boer women and children were maintained by the
British government to save them from the ever-present danger
of starvation on the veldt. While I am on that subject, which
has been a burning question, the British government, the
army, and all connected with the management of the camps
having been abused for the way they were conducted, I can
state, from a personal knowledge of facts, that the people were
indeed fortunate to be in camp. They were under the super-
vision of kind and capable officers, doctors and nurses ; they
had their own schools and school teachers ; they were well
sheltered in good tents and they were well fed.
iThe corps was first organized into four divisions. There were to
be three divisions in the Transvaal, and one in the Orange River Colony,
all divided into troops, consisting of one captain, one lieutenant, and 100
N.C.O.'s and men, but as hostilities showed no signs of ceasing the army
was unable to carry out the proposed agreement, and consequently
the Inspector General established recruiting ofi&ces in England, Cape
Colony and Natal, and arranged for a contingent of about 1,300 N.C.O.'a
and men, with their own of&cers, from Canada.
THE SOUTH AFRICAN CONSTABULARY 369
The Canadian contingent, which had sailed before I left,
was distributed throughout the three divisions of the Orange
River Colony and eastern and western Transvaal ; none were
at present posted to " B " division, which was under my
command. It had been intended that they should be divided
amongst the men of the other troops, but when they were raised
the recruiting officer gave them the impression that they
would be in one division by themselves, under me, and when
the men heard that they were not, they showed such signs of
discontent that I recommended to the Inspector General
that they be kept in distinct troops, and he very kindly per-
mitted that arrangement. The impression has been circulated
that they were all Canadians by birth, but such was not the
case ; at least half of many of the troops were originally from
the old land, and had joined to have a look-in at the war.
I took over command of Modderfontein and my division the
day after I arrived. It consisted of six troops, well com-
manded by officers of experience. Several were stationed west
of Modderfontein, and, having made myself acquainted with
my surroundings and pushed on the organization and instruc-
tion, I left two days later to inspect my outposts.
With few exceptions every officer in the S.A.C. had served
in other fields or had been through the experiences of the
previous years of the Boer War. The majority were seconded
from the army or colonial corps, and the rank and file were
highly intelligent, stalwart and, usually, well educated. The
greater number had enlisted in the expectation that the force
would be permanent, and many had hoped that commissions
would be within their reach.
As the Inspector General was in England, the divisional
commandants of the force had to take their orders for work
in the field from Lord Kitchener, commanding the forces in
South Africa. I reported to him at Pretoria. After a look
over the maps he ordered me to keep pushing my troops north
and west along the Rustenburg road to clear the country
beyond the Magaliesberg range. The interview was pleasant,
and I found the Commander-in-Chief, as I expected, keen,
business-like and clear in his instructions.
The chain of posts as far as Rustenburg had been placed
2 A
370 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
on the 13th, and, all being in order in Pretoria, I left for the
Rustenburg line, where my headquarters were to be. The
post had been placed in a good state of defence. An isolated
mountain, called Wolhuter's Kop, was my signal station, in
charge of an officer, and was in communication by helio and
lamp with all my troops for at least 40 miles, and with several
infantry posts also, including the Suffolks, West Riding and
Lincolns, who were stationed along the Magaliesberg in touch
with Pretoria. That part of the Transvaal was a favourite
resort for small active commandoes of the enemy, placed there
to make raids upon columns of transport and on the lines of
communication, by going south through the neks in the
Magaliesberg to cut the Krugersdorp-Klerksdorp line, or
turning their attention east to blow up the Pretoria-Pietersburg
railway.
After an ineffectual attempt to get a suitable house for the
staff in Pretoria, I reported to Lord Kitchener in the usual
way, and when I brought the matter to his personal notice I
was assigned the residence of the late president of the Transvaal
as quarters for my officers, and Mr. Eloff's house next door as
offices. There was good stabling, a carriage house, which con-
tained the state coach, Mrs. Kruger's phaeton and a covered
carriage for private use. Mr. Kruger's trek waggon stood in
the back yard, just as it had been left after his last trek to the
low veldt.
The house was a long low building in the Dutch colonial
style, and contained a large reception-room, a dining-room, a
lady's boudoir and several bedrooms, one of which had been
occupied by Mr. Kruger, and was protected by strong steel
shutters inside, which were closed at night and secured by
an iron bar. In front of the house the usual stoep extended,
and at the entrance from the street Barney Bamato's marble
lions reclined, facing the passage to the stoep. In the large
reception-room there were several curios, amongst them
the first shell fired at Spion Kop, which had been duly inscribed
and presented to the president by some enthusiastic admirer.
When Major General Baden-Powell returned to the country
he made a tour of the division, accompanied by Majors Steuart
and Kearsley, and inspected every troop. The Inspector
WORK AT THE DEPOT 371
General was a great favourite in the corps, a good disciplinarian,
kindly and patient. A proof of the latter quahty I saw at
Naauwpoort, where one of the officers produced a gramophone
to amuse the company, and kept the wretched records going
from dark until nearly midnight, gazing the while on the party
with a smile of intense satisfaction, but not a word from the
general, nor any one else, until we nearly dropped asleep from
sheer exhaustion 1
In the middle of May, when there were signs of peace. When
negotiations were opened, several of the Boer delegates were
passed through my Hues under a flag of truce.
From this time, there being no great necessity for my presence
with the main body of the division, I left it under the command
of Major Steuart, who had been transferred to me as second in
command, and went into Pretoria to prepare for our future
employment both as peace officers and as soldiers. The depot
was very strong in numbers and augmented a short time after
peace was proclaimed by Canadian and Austrahan troops, and
one of Boers who had fought all through the war. When
the latter came I had them paraded and gave them words of
encouragement, which seemed to please them. The depot was
very busy, at first under Captain Trew and later under Captain
Hilliam, late of the R.C.M. Rifles, who had been strongly
recommended to the Inspector General by Colonel (now Major
General) Rimington, for whose column he had served as leader
of the scouts. He was one of the best instructors that I have
known, and his varied service in the 17th Lancers and the
N.W.M.P. had fitted him well for the command of the depot.
When things were as I wished at the depot every troop officer
took a course in the duties of paymaster and quartermaster
under the officers of the division at the head of those depart-
ments, and the men, after passing their recruits' course, were
sent in large parties to work for a few weeks with the Pretoria
blue police, so that if need be they could work in the small
towns, which were the seats of the resident magistrates, and
were to be the headquarters of S.A.C. districts. I had Dutch
instructors employed and classes of 50 men were taught the
language as we went along, orders being given that they were
to be practised in it at stables and other duties, so that if need
372 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
be they could work amongst the Boer farmers without an
interpreter.
To encourage the large number of well educated men in the
corps the Inspector General had arranged that there should
be promotion from the ranks to commissions in the force.
The first men who came in to be examined were not in every
case fairly selected, and some who were not N.C.O.'s were sent
to the depot on the recommendation of some friend who was
exercising that curse, social influence, ten times worse than
political influence. I put a stop to this, however, by ordering
that no one under the rank of sergeant, and promoted on his
merits, would be recommended, and when they came in I gave
them a severe test before I permitted them to come up for
examination, and those who failed were retained at the depot
imder instruction until they proved to be efficient in every
respect.
While peace was being arranged in Pretoria the Boer generals
who represented their country were at the local hotels, and
created a very favourable impression, being soldier-like men,
with pleasant manners. The most distinguished were Generals
Botha, de la Rey and de Wet, all of whom had great influence
with their feUow countrymen. They had opposed the war in
the first instance, but when it was forced upon them, like true
patriots, they fought to the end, and made the best terms
possible.
In May the Inspector General gave orders that the four
divisional commandants should send to him a daily diary of
events and suggestions which they might choose to make for
the good of the force. This method worked well, and its good
effects were soon evident in the increasing efficiency of the
corps, which at that time was the strongest mounted police
force in the world, its parade state totalling at least 10,500 men.
The thumb-mark system of identification was brought into
the S.A.C. during May, and everything done to make the corps
at least as modem as any other. The present head of the
Metropolitan Pohce was in Johannesburg and the head and
leader of that system, which had been brought to perfection
under him.
On May 24, 1902, a vast concourse of people assembled in
A MENACE TO THE WHITES 373
Church Square, Pretoria, to hear peace proclaimed, but as it
did not come off they left, very much disappointed. The
treaty of peace was, however, signed on May 24, and on June i
the clergy of the city informed their congregations of the
good news.
On the 29th I completed in my office a list of the Boers and
other burghers of the Transvaal Colony and registered them.
The same was done throughout the S.A.C., I beheve, and was
a great help to us for the remainder of our service in South
Africa. This information had been obtained from the archives
of the Dutch RepubUcs. The northern or " B " Division of the
Transvaal was placed under my command. Although it con-
tained the homes of a large number of farmers, it had within
its limits more Kaffirs than all the rest of the two colonies.
Many hundreds of thousands were scattered about the numer-
ous kraals, and were a decided menace to the whites who had
returned to their homes, for they had a large quantity of arms
and ammunition. These had to be taken from them at an
early date, or we should be faced by serious consequences. As
soon as I learned the true state of affairs, I recommended that
the natives be disarmed, even if the government had to com-
pensate them for the loss of their rifles and other fire-arms, and
the question was seriously taken up.
Before Lord Kitchener left for England he addressed us.
He said that he had never seen finer men on parade, nor more
gallant ones in the field, under circumstances requiring forti-
tude and self-denial. Though we had lost many men during
the campaign, the force had always been ready when wanted.
He also gave much sound advice as to the future conduct of
the force towards those who had been recently in arms against
us, but were for the future to be our friends and fellow subjects
of His Majesty.
Peace having been now assured, the government had a
very important and difficult task before them in the repatria-
tion of our new fellow subjects, the restoration of the theatre
of war to its normal state and the improvement of the two
colonies by the building of roads, the estabUshment of schools,
the improvement of the railways and of every other pubhc
service.
374 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
The new law department appointed resident magistrates
for every magisterial district. The system was peculiar, quite
different from any other part of the British Empire, and, with a
strong and capable police force, likely to cause friction between
the resident magistrates and the district commandants. The
resident magistrates, who had been long in the colonies, or were
born in them or were lawyers by profession, got on very
well with us from the first, but in cases where they were
military officers and senior in rank to the S.A.C. commandants
there was very often a great deal of misunderstanding. Some-
times there were faults on both sides, but not often on the side
of the S.A.C, for the reason that from the first the officers
studied the laws, ordinances and regulations, and were in
most cases quite fit for the bench themselves. The law
department refused for a long time to make our officers, or any
other persons, justices of the peace with power to try petty
cases, such as breaches of the masters' and servants' ordinances,
etc., giving as a reason that an officer should not try cases in
which his own men give evidence. At the same time, many
of the resident magistrates tried to interfere with the S.A.C.
officers and do the police work themselves I
The magistrates personally were very agreeable men, and,
as time went on, almost all learned that the S.A.C. were their
best friends, and at the same time quite capable of managing
the police work and the many other duties assigned to them
without interference. But it was many a day with some of
them before they came to the conclusion that, after all, as
magistrates, they were not in command of the police. We had
a few regulations which had applied to the old regime in other
colonies when the magistrate would interfere with everything,
inspect the men's quarters, the cells, etc., as if they were in
command of a regiment, ask for men to act as mere servants,
so that the pohce were looked down upon, but the S.A.C. soon
put an end to such ; in fact we did not permit such a course
on the part of the resident magistrates. Our men were highly
respectable, the officers from the miUtary services and the
colonies, and the Inspector General would not permit them to
be treated in a way that would lower their self-respect. The
force had not been doing duty amongst the Boers and other
KAFFIRS AND BOERS 375
persons in the cities and towns for more than six months before
they were looked up to as a credit to the races to which they
belonged.
We had not been out at our posts very long and we were
busy at our multifarious duties when it became evident that,
as in the early days of settlement and government under a
council in the North West and Yukon Territories of Canada,
it was necessary that the constabulary should be represented
on the council, and in one of my daily letters to the Inspector
General I suggested that the force should have a place at the
council board. In reply he offered to recommend me for it,
but I pointed out that it was his place, not mine, and that the
chief staff officer should be there also ; the suggestion was
adopted, to the great advantage of the pubhc service.
A short time after my troops were placed it was reported
that the Kaffirs, as I expected, were not at aU friendly to the
Boers, and showed themselves very impudent in demeanour
towards them. They had formed an impression that, as we
had fought with the burghers, we were hostile to them. I
gave orders to my troop commanders and senior captains at
the district headquarters that they were to insist upon the
natives treating the Dutch people with respect, as formerly ;
ex-Commandant Beyers had reported that armed natives were
interfering with Boers who were returning to their farms, and
he thought that the S.A.C. had no orders. I reheved his mind,
however, and issued further instructions to the force that it
was their duty to protect all persons in their legitimate occupa-
tions, and that, to do so with effect, they must act at once in
all cases where there was any danger of a breach of the peace,
and were not, on any account, to wait for orders from any
central authority. They were to exercise judgment, prompti-
tude and tact.
Shortly after this a number of native constables, mostly
Zulus, were engaged, and, as the other Kaffirs were in consider-
able dread of them owing to their reputation for courage and
strength, they were a great assistance to the force in every
division. Every detachment, no matter how small, had one or
more attached to it, and, as they made good use of them, it
was not long before all causes for complaint were removed.
376 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
This did not admit of any slackening off, however, for the
Kaffirs, particularly those who had been treated too familiarly
by the whites attached to the army, were prone to be insolent,
and even commit, as they did a short time after repatriation
of the Boers, very serious crimes, some of which, apart from
murder, were punishable with death.
Rinderpest was reported amongst the transport oxen at
Piet Potgieter's Rust on July i6, and from that date the
department of agriculture, the South African Constabulary and
magistrates had a very difficult task to keep alive the herds
of cattle and make the Boer farmers' understand the serious-
ness of the situation. This was soon followed by tick fever,
another disease fatal to stock and very difficult to eradicate.
It eventually came to such a pass that the infected areas had
to be fenced to keep them apart from the sections where the
cattle were still sound, and, as the government gave compensa-
tion to owners, it was not an uncommon offence for the farmers
to trek into the infected areas so that their cattle would catch
the disease in order to have the animal paid for. Passes had
to be given to go in certain directions, and, instead of proceeding
according to the pass, they would be found going in opposite
directions, and when caught would feign ignorance of the
purport of their pass.
The tick fever would never have found its way into the coim-
try had the advice of our veterinary surgeon been taken.
Captain James Irvine Smith reported that the cattle which
were being imported from the Portuguese side were diseased,
but the other veterinary surgeons, none of whom were in our
service, declared that his diagnosis was wrong, with the natural
result that the country was soon overwhelmed with diseased
stock. Great experts had to be sent for eventually, and re-
ported that Captain Smith was right, and that had his advice
been taken the country would have been saved from enormous
loss.
When the cattle diseases were known the men of the S.A.C.
assisted the farmers in every way by showing them how to
prevent the spread of it amongst their cattle. As Professor
Theiller, a bacteriologist and pupil of the great Koch, lived in
Pretoria, I took advantage of his presence to send a number
A TOUR OF INSPECTION 377
of my men to learn from him all about the diseases, and the
veterinary surgeons took charge of them, and they were
divided amongst the districts, but this did not happen until
after 1902.
On July 18 reports came to me which were sent on to head-
quarters to the effect that at least 50 per cent, of the Kaffirs
had rifles and other fire-arms, and I again suggested that the
natives in my division should be disarmed at once if peace
were to be maintained. The same day Captain Pomeroy, for
the same reason, took the rifles from several of the Kaffirs.
This was brought to the notice of the government by the
Inspector General, and early disarming and compensation for
their rifles was promised.
I made my first round of the troops in the north on the last
week of the same month, accompanied by Captain de Havilland,
and inspected aU troops on the way to Zoutpansberg. I found
the Boer families hospitable and cheerful. As it was reported
that diseased cattle were being brought into the Zoutpansberg
from Rhodesia in the most reckless manner, I ordered patrols
north to the Limpopo to stop them, and a station was placed
on the main trail from the north where the road crossed that
river. I foimd also that there were attempts to meddle with
the duties of my officers and men, and directed that they must
not permit it and must be firm on all points.
On my way I found that we were put to great annoyance by
having to bring Kaffir and other prisoners many miles, to the
great inconvenience of ourselves and witnesses, and I reported
to the Inspector General that it was important that the
government should appoint our senior ofiicers justices of the
peace, with powers to try cases, as in other parts of the British
dominions. After several complaints of our troubles bringing
witnesses and petty cases sometimes 60 or 70 miles before the
resident magistrates, the Inspector General and I went to the
law department. It was no use at that time, the officials were
unaccustomed to such methods, but later they were obliged to
comply with modem ideas and have some consideration for
the farmers.
There was much trouble with regard to cattle imported in
a state of disease, and Captain Jarvis complained that the
378 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Rhodesian authorities had again given passes to a Boer to
bring 42 diseased oxen into the Transvaal. These animals had
tick fever and were quarantined immediately. I again wired
orders that, pass or no pass, all cattle on the move from Rho-
desia were to be turned back from the Limpopo, and officers
were not to wait for orders on matters of such vital importance ;
they must keep their patrols for the protection of the stock
interests on the move. I also reported to the department of
agriculture, and asked that we be given full powers to act in
all cases such as those, and received orders to act on my own
judgment, and I delegated the same to all of my officers that
they were to do likewise.
On August 16 arrangements were made to send a party of
Boer delegates and their wives to visit the overseas dominions
of His Majesty. Canada, Australia, New Zealand and, of course,
England were visited, but the season of the year did not
suit Canada at all ; the harvest was over when they arrived,
but they saw much to interest them. Judging from their
report they were well satisfied, but I fear they learnt very
little except the enormous extent of the Empire. The move
was a good one, nevertheless, and the delegates could not
but have been impressed with the kindly way in which they
were received everywhere.
The Kaffirs had got it into their heads that as the Boers
had been defeated the whole of the land in the Transvaal
belonged to the natives, and we were constantly getting reports
of strained relations between Boers and Kaffirs. Up to date
no steps had been taken to disarm the natives, although there
was great danger of outrages being committed on the unarmed
whites. About this time I had to forward a report of high
officials exasperating the Boer farmers by alluding in an
offensive way to the late war.
On August 19 I went north to accompany the Inspector
General on a tour of inspection of the posts in the Zoutpansberg.
With him was Captain Kearsley, his aide-de-camp, and they
came on to Pietersburg the same day.
Next morning we trekked east to Haenertsburg, 43 miles
from Pietersburg, and the Inspector General went over the
troop next morning. In the afternoon we rode back to
A PYTHON STORY 379
Pietersburg, a most uncomfortable ride for me, as I had bron-
chitis, a very sore throat, and my face was swollen to twice
its natural size. Moreover, my horse turned a somersault
and rolled over me, giving me quite a severe wrench, the effects
of which I felt for several days.
At 5 p.m. the following day we left for Spelonkin, Captain
Jarvis' post at Fort Edward, 72 miles north east on the road
to the Limpopo and Rhodesia. It was a fine, cool night, and
at 10.30 we had made the 42 miles to Dwaar's River, where
there was a detachment of Jarvis' No. 14 troop. It was
quite dark when we arrived there, but no sooner did we dis-
mount than I saw that the ways of the North West Mounted
Police prevailed there to a considerable extent. Our horses
were taken to shelter at once, and the men busied themselves
making tea and preparing food for us, and the Inspector
General, a man after their own hearts, was soon talking game
and sport to a gigantic British Columbian, who was a noted
shot. When going round with the corporal I found that
he was the son of Mr. James Audy, an officer of the Hudson's
Bay Company, and had served a short time in the N.W.M.P.
Fort Edward, which we reached next morning, had been
constructed during the war under the direction of a Royal
Engineer ofiicer, and was in a good state of defence. The
situation was pretty, on rising ground above a large spruit of
fresh water, and across the spruit there was a fine farm, owned
by a family of Scotch descent, named Cooksley. Mr. Cooksley,
when bathing in the spruit some years before, had been seized
around the chest by a young python, but had held his own
until his wife and a Kaffir boy came to his rescue ; they took
hold of the reptile's tail and unwound it, and the three killed
the snake.
Iguanas were plentiful in the neighbourhood, and one of the
officers was startled by one jumping on to his chest as he sat
drying himself after bathing. As he had never seen one
before, he took it to be a young crocodile, and there was a
laugh at his expense, in which he very heartily joined, when
he had recovered from the sudden start which it gave him.
On the slopes of the Zoutpansberg there was a settlement
of mulattoes called the Buys (pronounced Base) Boers, who
38o FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
were named so after a voortrekker, who had led a commando
there in the early days. As there were no Europeans they took
Kaffir wives, and located themselves in that rather favoured
region. Reports had been made in Pietersburg to the effect
that these people were on bad terms with the Dutch and
natives, but I ascertained that there was no truth in it, and
I was told that they were kindly, well-disposed persons.
Lieutenant Welstead's post, in the north of the Zoutpansberg,
was a difficult one ; the Kaffirs were in large numbers and well
armed, and the lions were so bold that fires had to be kept
going all night to keep them at a distance.
I returned to Pretoria next day, having been travelling
when suffering from bronchitis, sore throat and much swollen
face, and had been in torture the whole time I was out. There
was no help for it in the S.A.C., however ; I had to keep going
until I recovered in the ordinary course.
No hay had ever been cut in any part of the Transvaal,
and there was no bedding for the horses. Most of the forage
had to be brought from overseas. I therefore obtained mowing
machines, and we made hay as in western Canada and salted
it in the stacks. The horses were soon in better condition,
as there was ample for bedding as well, and during the whole
time I was in South Africa our horses, although they did very
hard, constant work, were admired by everyone who saw them.
The grass in that country is not by any means as nutritious
as it is on the prairies of western Canada. It becomes brown
and useless with the first frost ; ours, of course, dries into hay
on the ground in August, and is almost as good as when it is
fresh and green.
The ordinance respecting the disarming of the Kaffirs came
into our hands at the end of August. The first important
disarming took place on September 22, and by October 8
19,740 guns and rifles and a considerable quantity of ammuni-
tion had been surrendered to my division alone. In this work
the Native Commissioner had been escorted and protected
by the S.A.C., and the good work went on until every gun and
rifle in the possession of the natives had been handed in,
destroyed, and paid for, leaving the Kaffir powerless for
mischief against black or white.
THE END OF A CUMBROUS SYSTEM 381
The policing of the border next the Portuguese possessions
was the most difficult. The country was what is called the
low veldt, very unhealthy in the summer or rainy season.
Horse sickness, fever, ague and other diseases peculiar to a
hot climate prevailed, and the heat was very great, the maxi-
mum at midnight in several places being about 125 degrees
Fahrenheit. White people almost invariably suffered from
malaria, and after being there for a few years, if they live
that length of time, are often very severely attacked when
they return to the high, healthy veldt.
Such being the country which had to be policed along the
eastern border, detachments were placed on the high ground.
I would not station them in the low country, but occasional
patrols with Kaffir police were made by an officer and N.C.O.
in the summer, and in the winter parties went over the ground,
and maps were made by officers of the division, with the result
that the patrolling was efficiently done and we had very little
fever.
By October 15 the S.A.C. had been distributed to suit the
circumstances, and inspecting officers found the men very good.
There were, indeed, people holding high office in some of the
districts who thought we were too soldier-like, but they had
evidently failed to observe that every successful police force
in the world has a military style, is drilled, obeys orders, and
is invariably commanded by men who are soldiers in everything
but the name. One of those who worried about this was a
military officer himself, and when asked for a case of neglect
of duty on account of the force being military in manner,
could produce none. With the majority of resident magistrates
the officers and men became favourites, and eventually, in spite
of much opposition, the officers, as in the N.W.M.P., were
appointed justices of the peace, and proved the value of the
system. But before this became law reams of foolscap had
been written, forwarding the complaints of the Boer farmers,
who had to travel many miles to attend petty court cases as
prosecutors or witnesses, and of the officers of the force, who
had to send their men 30 or 40 miles mounted, escorting
Kaffirs who were on foot, and perhaps only guilty of a trifling
offence, which could have been tried nearer home. When the
382 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
change came about the country had much to thank Lord
Mihier for, in the alteration to common-sense methods.
In connection with our work I may say that we seldom
had the support of the law department. Even the magis-
trates disapproved of the way some of its officials looked upon
the officers and men, without whom they would have been of
little use themselves, but with the other departments we were
on the best of terms, and helped them as much as we did the
legal branch in every way possible.
When the proper time came we took the census ; every
man, woman and child of the white population, except in the
cities of Johannesburg and Pretoria, where we had no juris-
diction, was known to us, and there was not a Kaffir kraal,
or chief, nor a burgher before the war who was not on the rolls
and his character and opinions known to us. As I said to a
friend of mine who was a resident magistrate, and had done
duty in one of the districts as a staff officer and objected to
our placing the posts ourselves at the outset, " Though you
know the district, in three weeks' time we will be better
acquainted with it than even the Boers and Kaffirs."
In November, 1902, there were many complaints in some
districts of the ravages of baboons, particularly in the Water-
berg, and I had to obtain leave to issue an extra supply of am-
munition to our men to destroy them, as the Boers had not
yet been permitted to have rifles. One resident magistrate and
district commandant had issued a few, but when I learned it I
was obliged to advise the district commandant not to give any
Ucences for arms until we had orders. The baboons always
knew when the good man was away, and took advantage of the
occasion to drive the women and children into the house, and
would then raid the crops.
Game was very plentiful in the outlying parts of the division,
and as it had to be preserved, I suggested to the Inspector
General that we take over the duties of game wardens in addi-
tion to our other work, as it would fit in with our patrols.
The idea was not approved, however, by the government
as far as the great game region along the Portuguese border
was concerned, although it would have saved expense and
prevented friction. It was well done under the other plan.
A TERRIFYING EXPERIENCE 383
but, as I expected, the officer in charge of that area objected
to see our officers and men within it, in spite of the fact that it
we did not visit it we should be unable to prevent the importa-
tion of ffire-arms and fire-water for the Kaffirs. I paid no
attention to the objections raised, however, and directed the
officers along the border to carry on their duties of patrolling,
regardless of opposition. Being firm and tactful, they managed
matters in such a way that all concerned worked in harmony.
Under the new rules the whole of the low country became
a preserve, managed under very stringent regulations, and
throughout the remainder of the division, where game was in
many places very plentiful, the game wardens and the S.A.C.
divisions carried out the duty so strictly that, where there
was little or no travel, wildebeeste, koodoo, hartebeeste, and
other varieties of deer and antelope too numerous to mention,
being undisturbed, paid little attention to the patrols, and
lions seemed to be quite anxious to make our acquaintance, even
encroaching upon the settlements of the frontier, and the men
very often ran great risks of being devoured.
One of the game wardens under Major Hamilton was the
hero of a rather remarkable adventure which I have seen
described in another book, but as it occurred within the pre-
cincts of the area under the S.A.C, I must be excused for
relating it. Wolhuter, a young Boer game guardian, and
a comrade were returning to camp one night when a lion and
lioness sprang out upon them from a thicket. Wolhuter was
riding carelessly and, when his horse shied, was thrown. His
companion, losing control of his horse, was carried at a furious
pace along the path, pursued by the lioness, while Wolhuter
was seized by the lion and dragged towards the thicket.
He was in great pain, and could feel the brute's feet trampling
upon him as he was drawn along the ground on his back.
In this dreadful predicament, expecting his captor to make
a meal of him very soon, he suddenly felt his hunting knife
with his left hand. Drawing it from its sheath, he made a
chance stroke, and drove it into the lion's body, behind the
shoulder, kilUng it instantly. Being experienced in the ways
of Uons, he cUmbed a tree, and when his friend returned with
assistance to ascertain what had become of him, he was found
384 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
seated on a branch with the lioness watching him from below,
her dead mate lying close by, its heart pierced by Wolhuter's
knife. The plucky young Boer was in hospital several weeks
after his adventure, where he made a good recovery.
Lions were frequently met along the Selati railway, a line
which had been for the time abandoned, but on which the
S.A.C. had permission to run their hand cars to reach posts
in the low veldt. In the north near the Limpopo they were
very bold, some of the men having to take refuge in trees
and on the roofs of the sheds of Mr. Zeederburg, the former
mail contractor. In another district one of the men, when
trying to shoot a Hon which had his comrade in its grasp,
killed the poor man instead, and an officer who went on a lion
hunting trip died from the effects of a mauling he received
from one of the brutes.
There were other things as dangerous and more repulsive
than the lion. The large rivers were infested by crocodiles,
reptiles which the Kaffirs at one time regarded as sacred, and
a native who killed one without the permission of his chief
was promptly put to death.
Another creature which could be seen in the kloofs and
noisome spots was the python, which in South Africa grows
to an enormous size. Captain Scarth killed one in the Lyden-
berg district which measured 29 feet 6 inches. The natives
do not seem to fear those snakes, however, although under
certain circumstances they proved themselves to be very
dangerous customers and destructive to buck, colts, calves
and even larger animals, which they crush and then devour.
When Scarth shot his python he heard some Kaffirs calling
to him, and when he went to the spot he found a group standing
near where one lay coiled like a huge hawser of pretty colours.
He was so surprised at the unexpected sight that the creature
had time to dart into the bushes. A few minutes later he again
heard the natives crying out to attract his attention, and when
he went to them he saw the python with his head waving from
side to side, several feet above the bushes, and gave it both
barrels. When the skin was removed the lovely colours
disappeared, giving place to a dull brown.
There were many venomous snakes in the divisional area.
MR. CHAMBERLAIN'S ARRIVAL 385
amongst them the maambas, brown and green. The latter
is to be found in the trees and is very poisonous. Both kill
in a few minutes, and the brown maamba is so quick that the
eye cannot follow its stroke. There were also the puff and
night adders, the renghals and the peel slang. The latter
spits at its enemy, causing temporary blindness and raising
blisters.
There are several useful antidotes for the bite of the snakes,
one of them is made up of poisons of several. When I was in
South Africa this was sold by the native doctors, and is carried
by almost all who go on hunting expeditions. Another is
in liquid form, and the dose is 21 drops for an adult ; if taken
at once it will cure, but the patient must on no account fall
asleep.
One of the most remarkable of the feathered tribe is the
honey bird, which leads to or warns one of the proximity of
a lion, a snake, or a bee's nest. This one is very well known to
all who have resided in South Africa.
My wife and family, accompanied by Mrs. R. W. Harwood
and Dr. A. C. de L. Harwood, and Mrs. HiUiam, wife of my
depot commandant. Captain HiUiam, arrived on November 22,
very much fatigued by the long voyage and the stuffy, hot
train. They were soon restored, however, and during their
stay made many friends in the Transvaal, who did much to
make their visit to the country enjoyable.
In January, 1903, Mr. Joseph Chamberlain arrived on a
visit to South Africa, and was enthusiastically received
throughout the country. While he was in Pretoria my division
furnished the escorts, and a reception was held in one of the
public parks, where a large number of ladies and gentlemen,
including Generals Louis Botha, de la Rey and Cronje were
presented.
During the same month some of the newly-appointed officials
suggested that the officers of the S.A.C. and native departments
should be more familiar with the Kaffir chiefs, but fortunately
the suggestion was not adopted. The Kaffir is not like the
Red Indian or Maori, who in their primitive state are dignified
and courteous and wiU take no Uberties, and it does not answer
to treat him the same. Strict justice and firmness is the only
2B
386 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
course. There was another good reason why there should be
no change, the whole of the white population were against it,
especially the Boers, who knew them better than anyone,
and they did not believe in famiharity. If they were sometimes
severe and unjust when they were in power, they had many
good rules to guide their intercourse with the native population
which it would not be wise to change.
The Kaffir as a labourer in any capacity is trying ; under
the influence of fear they will work fairly well, but in gangs
it would be an unusual thing to see more than five to ten per
cent, busy at the same time. As domestics in towns, both
men and women are poor servants. On the locations the
women do all the manual labour and work hard ; the men
loaf about and will not work unless circumstances compel them.
Both sexes are by nature untruthful, and few are capable of
gratitude for any kind act. Admonition by the cat-o'-nine-
tails is the only thing understood, and as that is seldom used
the Kaffir is difficult to manage. The native, of course, looks
up to the white person as " baas " or " missus," and as no
European will perform manual labour in that country unless
he cannot help it, the employers, such as mine owners, etc.,
have to make the best of what they can get. White servants
have been brought out from England, but as soon as they see
the state of affairs they demand hired help at their work, and
are then " baas " and " missus." This is not because the
temperate parts of South Africa are not suitable for white
labour, but because it is a black labourers' country ; the
white is master, and would be despised by both Europeans
and Kaffirs if he lowered himself to the native level.
The best Kaffir boy that I had in the S.A.C. was a driver
named Philemon, who was well educated, that is, he could read
and write well, and was a preacher in the location on Simdays,
and as he was able to give me some information I asked him
why the Kaffirs had so little gratitude and were so imtruth-
ful. He replied that, " Nothing appeals to the native but
physical pain. It is no use to treat them the same as the
whites, they cannot understand it ; we are spoiled by being
told that we are the equals of the white people ; we are not
civihzed, and should be taught that, until we are so, we are not
NATIVE CONSTABLES 387
the equals of the whites." Of course, as in the case of this
boy, there are notable exceptions, particularly among the
Zulus, and we got some good native constables from amongst
them, and even in the other tribes, but then they had great
supervision in the force, and that, with the fact that they
occupied a high position amongst their fellows, had a good
effect upon them. The Zulus are soldiers by nature and long
training, and much superior in every way to the majority of
the Kaffirs.
CHAPTER XIX
Major General Baden-Powell's new appointment — His successor — ^My
tour of inspection — ^Hard work and fitness — ^A capable factotum —
Crocodiles — Chief Matoppo's kraal — His eleven queens — Not too
old at fifty — Reform in the judicial system — ^The War Claims
Commission — The census — Baseless rumours — ^The plagues — Presi-
dent Kruger's funeral — Politics — The Chinese labour question —
Chinese outrages — An ingenious excuse — Colonel Nicholson's
generosity — ^Visit of the Duke and Duchess of Connaught — ^The
guarding of the Rand — The Royal Commission — My recommenda-
tions— Boer officers — My resignation — ^The Simmer and Jack Mine
— ^We leave for England — ^My wife's illness — " Home " again —
A pleasant time in England — Back to Canada — In harness again —
The new west — ^The pioneers' reward.
IN February, 1903, Major General Baden-Powell was
appointed Inspector General of Cavalry in Great Britain
and Ireland, and was succeeded by Colonel Nicholson,
chief staff officer of the S.A.C.
When Colonel Nicholson returned from England in June
and took over command of the S.A.C, I was able to report to
him that, during his absence in England, I had made a complete
tour on horseback of my division, inspected the different
district headquarters, the outposts, men, horses, arms, accoutre-
ments, kits, clothing, pohce records, all books, ammunition,
messing ; had spoken to every member of the division to ascer-
tain if he had any complaints, or if there was anything that I
could do for him. I found the discipline very good, and that
the removal from the division of every man who had mis-
behaved himself in pubUc or had been a disgrace to the corps,
had a good effect, leaving the division with as fine and respect-
able a body of men as anyone could desire to command. I had
found officers and men keen on their work and weU acquainted
with their districts and the inhabitants, and the officers with
a sound knowledge of the character and capabilities of the
N.C.O.'s and men under their command. They knew the
country so well that they could take me over any by-path,
388
MY TOUR 389
trail or mountain to any place in the district. The officers
and men were respected by the inhabitants of the country,
all of whom made a practice of coming to them when they were
in need of advice or help. The horses were in good condition
for the work they had to do, and, as directed by me in the
spring, care had been taken to select places for the outposts
which would be fairly free from horse -sickness, in fact, many
posts were perfectly safe. In some parts of the Zoutpansberg
they could be kept out at grass night and day.
I worked hard those days and rode some of the longest
■distances travelled on horseback. It would be tedious to
give details of the tour and of the work at all the posts visited,
but in each case the inspection was of the most searching
character, even to the nails in the horses* shoes. To show
the condition I was in, I may say that I lost only two pounds
in the 1,800 mile trek, and as I rode a horse with a different
pace and gait every day it made the work more difficult.
No other officer could or did stay with me on those trips without
a great deal of fatigue. The total mileage of my tour was
1,800 miles on horseback and 1000 by rail. This work was
-done over again every year.
Although I do not propose to give a detailed account of the
tour, there were a few incidents and episodes that, I think,
are worth recording.
At one farm, that of Mr. Shepstone, a son of the late Sir
Theophilus Shepstone, at one time governor of the Transvaal,
we found the owner away from home. He had invited us to
stay at his place at any time when I or any of the S.A.C.
officers were passing there, and he had left orders with his
stalwart Zulu factotum that we were to be given the best
in the house when we arrived. The Zulu met us at the door,
ordered the Kaffir servants to take our horses, showed us to our
Tooms, and when dinner was ready announced the fact in good
EngUsh. The meal was served by native girls in snow-white
garments, while the big Zulu watched every move, and when
we retired asked us when we should hke breakfast.
During the whole of the war when the '* baas " was away
the Zulu had held the place, and, although there was much
-valuable plate in his charge, not a spoon or other article was
390 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
missing when Mr. Shepstone returned. If any commandoes
came near during hostilities, he sent the native boys round ta
them to say that the British were occupying the place in force.
He certainly must have had some mysterious way of holding
the farm, for it was left untouched by Boer and Briton, and
the house was one of the best that I saw in the country parts of
the Transvaal.
Near one of our halting-places a native woman and child
were devoured by a crocodile, which was afterwards killed and
found to contain the remains of the poor creatures. I have
never been able to understand why the inhabitants of a
civihzed country, with the natives under control, took no steps
to destroy those hideous, loathsome reptiles, which are so
rapacious that they will eat their own young. The natives,
especially the women and children, run great risks where the
rivers are infested by them. Cages have to be made of stakes
driven into the mud of the banks to protect the women while
they are washing clothes or getting water. The reptiles have
been known to seize mules and horses even when they are
harnessed and being driven across the fords. A short time
before he joined the S.A.C. one of the officers, at a great risk of
his life, rescued a native woman who had been seized by a
crocodile and was being taken away to its lair.
We visited the stronghold of Chief Matoppo, who at the time
was in banishment. We found the kraal situated in a wild-
looking spot surrounded by enormous, irregular rocks, to gain
an entrance between which we had to creep on all fours.
Within the enclosure there was a large, complete and clean
Kaffir kraal of many huts and one corrugated iron building,,
which was perched on an eminence and dominated the ronda-
vels in the kraal. As soon as we entered we were welcomed by
Matoppo's Induna, who had charge of the chief's eleven queens,
of aU ages from eighteen years and upwards, and were con-
ducted to the big council rondavel, which was very clean like
the rest, but without any seats. These were soon provided
for us, however, and the Induna, with a large number of others,
sat on the hard mud floor, with their backs against the wall,
and after a talk, in which I explained that the S.A.C. were in
the country to protect both Europeans and natives, the
THE NATIVES AMENABLE 391
queens came into the hut on all fours, although the door was
high enough for a tall man, and passed round to us large
gourds full of fresh Kaffir beer, which we tasted, and it was
then given to the natives. When this ceremony was over we
went outside and were photographed with the queens by
Jarvis and de Havilland in turn, as neither of them would
miss the opportunity of being snapshotted with the dusky
maidens.
The natives in this kraal, both male and female, were of
very fine physique and of a rich brown colour. More perfectly
proportioned people it would be difficult to meet anywhere.
They seemed to be equal to the Zulus, and the men were said
to be very warhke and, previous to the British occupation of
the country, difficult to manage, being unwilling to pay the
hut tax, which, as a matter of fact, the Boers found it almost
impossible to coUect, the chiefs merely handing over a few
hundred pounds to the commissioner. That day was past
and gone, however ; we had disarmed the natives, and under
our escort every hut was visited and had to be paid for promptly
on the spot.
When we left the kraal we descended the hill through fine
crops of meaUes and Kaffir com. The latter is a sort of millet
which the natives find useful for the manufacture of their beer.
We saw the eleven queens again, busy collecting and storing
the grain, which they placed in egg-shaped holes in the ground,
and then covered over carefully with the leaves and earth.
The women were working under the direction of the eldest
queen, who kept them weU occupied, and it was remarkable
how easily and gracefully they walked with upwards of 50
pounds on their heads.
Most of the Kaffir kraals are, for sanitary reasons, perched
on the high ground of the kopjes, and, as the women carry the
water to the kraal while their lazy mates loaf the hvelong day,
it does not matter to the men how far the kraal is distant from
the wells or spruits.
When we got back to Pretoria from one part of our tour
we found invitations awaiting us for a ball that was to be held
that evening. We had had a hard day, including 50 miles
fast riding, and had only arrived at Pretoria at 6.30 p.m.,
392 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
but 8.30 found us at the ball. To ride 50 miles and go to a ball
the same evening at the age of 50 is another indication that
I was in pretty good condition.
In other lines of work, also, there was much to do. The
justices of the peace had no power to try cases and, when the
resident magistrates convicted law-breakers for offences,
however trifling, the guard-rooms at the headquarters of dis-
tricts and sub-districts could not be used to incarcerate them
even for short terms of imprisonment, but all had to be sent to
Pretoria, our men having to escort them for many miles by
road and train, to the great wear and tear of horseflesh on the
hard traUs and much worry on the trains when there were
many of them. This state of affairs was brought to the notice
of the law department, but that section was at that time so
strongly entrenched in old customs that Lord Milner in person
had to be interviewed before anything was done to mend
matters. The desired changes were then made, and later on
resident justices of the peace were appointed to deal with cases
as in other parts of the Empire, and as time went on, as a
measure of economy and to promote greater efficiency, the
officers of our force, as in the N.W.M.P., were gazetted as
justices, and all members of the constabulary were permitted
to prosecute in the resident magistrates' courts.
It took time to effect those reforms, and they only came
about through the influence of the High Commissioner after
persistent efforts at first to enlist the law department had
failed, even after it had been represented that it would save
much worry and annoyance to farmers, who often had to ride
or drive 60 or 70 miles to appear before the resident magistrate,
and to constabulary troopers who had to escort Kaffirs, who
were, of course, on foot, for very long distances. When these
changes were brought the benefit of the system was palpable
even to the law department.
The War Claims Commission finished its very important
duties about the end of 1903, with only one joke recorded
against them, which was that when a farmer in the south-
western Transvaal applied for compensation for the loss of
some pigs and fowls which had been used by the soldiers,
he was awarded damages for the loss of the hogs, but not for
From a plwtograpli lent by Mrs. William Ogilvie
THE GAME WARDENS' PROTEST 393
the fowls, because the troops derived no appreciable benefit
from fowls !
Although the natives had been disarmed, they could still be
a menace to the farmers and isolated persons, and needed care-
ful watching, as the latter had very few rifles. I had a very
long section of the Portuguese border carefully patrolled to
prevent gun-running, and we could take care of the game quite
as well as the game wardens posted in the low country, who
were constantly objecting to any patrols. They did not seem
to recognize the fact that to prevent the natives from having
facilities for murdering the farmers or starting a rebellion was
quite as important as the preservation of the game and the lions
and other beasts of prey, which, being undisturbed, were
increasing so fast as to be a danger to the isolated settlements.
Of course I paid no attention to the remonstrances of the game
wardens which came to me, and kept the patrols moving in that
region.
The Boers were very friendly and anxious to have our
detachments near them, and they made at first a good deal
of the reported risings of the natives, but all the time they
knew better, and were only making excuses to get rifles to shoot
game, and one cannot blame them, for they had always done
so, and from the day their ancestors settled in the colony every
Dutchman had the best and latest pattern rifle in his house.
In February, 1904, the question of taking a census came
up. When it was decided upon and the news of it spread
throughout the divisions, some evil-disposed persons, and they
were many, circulated a story amongst the Boer farmers to the
effect that the census was a plan of the British to cause the
Dutch to be in their homes at a given date, so that the natives
could fall upon them and finish the burghers and their famihes
at one fell swoop, thus settling the political question for all
time. Of course there were not many who would beheve this
fooUsh and wicked story, but there were some who did, and
took to the woods and kopjes for protection on the night they
were expected to be at home !
During the same year cattle and horse diseases prevailed
to a frightful extent, East Coast fever and Rhodesian Red-
water for the former, and the dreadful sickness for the latter.
394 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
Cattle diseases became prevalent where they had never been
before, and our veterinary surgeons and those of the hard-
worked and useful department of agriculture were kept busy.
Ours had much of their time occupied in teaching our officers,.
N.C.O.'s and men how to mix and apply the wash and dip
required to prevent the spread of the cattle disease. But these
matters, though bad for the country, were not all ; there were
enemies to good-will who had come from afar to destroy the
good name of their countrymen in peace as they had in war,
spreading falsehood through the land, about the humane
government, as they previously had when vilifying the true-
hearted British officers and soldiers. Following this plague
came the locusts from German East Africa. Of course the
S.A.C. had to take a hand to show the farmers how to use the
fungi provided for their destruction. The attempts made were
useless, however, for the breeding grounds were beyond our
reach and control, and, as long as the barren wastes to the west
of the Transvaal are allowed to breed these pests, there will
be a certainty of their periodical visits.
Following the locusts came the bubonic plague, brought
into the country by rats which came by sea, and our patrols
were kept busy preventing people from moving into or out of
the isolation camps which were established for the sick. This
disease did not last long, and the people who caught it were
fortunately few. It came in during the month of March, and
had entirely disappeared in a couple of months, but had great
care not been taken it might have been serious.
In April there were more reports of native unrest circulated
by alarmists who always saw war or rebellion in the air. Those
people could never get it into their heads that unarmed natives
could not make a successful rising. They had not even an
assegai, and the patrols along the border were so careful
that nothing in the shape of arms and ammunition could be
brought in.
The native census was completed in May, 1904, and it was
found that my district commands had a much better idea
of their numbers than the native commissioners who were in
charge of them. Captain Jarvis estimated the natives in the
Zoutpansberg at 300,000 in round numbers ; the native com-
PRESIDENT KRUGER'S FUNERAL 395
missioner put the estimate at 250,000 ; the actual census
was 309,000. \Mien this census was over my officers made
reports and maps of their districts, showing as accurately as
possible without a regular survey the roads, rivers, spruits,
mountain ranges, hills, kopjes, Kaffir kraals, forests, marshes,
farm-houses, Kaffir locations, the resources of the districts,
and the supplies available in time of trouble. These reports
were made carefully and proved to be of great use to me.
On December 17, 1904, I took 200 of my men, moimted, to
assist in keeping order at the obsequies of the late President
Kruger. The remains had been brought from Europe, and
were interred in Pretoria cemetery with great pomp. Many
thousands of persons from all parts of South Africa, especially
the two colonies, were present, and the leading Boer generals
were there. Everything went off in a way very creditable to
all concerned, and on the day following the funeral I received
a very courteous letter of thanks from the Boer committee of
arrangements and also from the City Council, expressing their
great satisfaction with the way our duties were performed.
In August our preparations were being made to get the
voters' lists of the two colonies prepared, as the work was
in our hands. Politics ran high ; Het Volk meetings were
being held and many persons, who were not in the confidence
of the government, thought it was rebellion, but it was merely
organization by the Dutch so as to be ready for the elections.
At the same time some prominent Anglo-Saxons were perched
on the political boundary fence, ready to change their allegiance.
The worst enemies of the government were British-bom persons,
agitators who made it their business to fool the electorate,
but, as the great Abraham Lincoln said, " You cannot fool
all the people aU the time," and seven years have disposed of
those gentry who promised that the new government, especially
if it were Dutch, would give the skilled miners, poor creatures,
higher wages — ^they were suffering at from ;^5o to ;^ioo a month !
The Dutch people had a real grievance in the Chinese
question, and a handle was made of it " at home." The mines
employed tens of thousands of coolies, who were subject to what
was called the foreign labour department, and it, very short-
sightedly, did not compel the mining magnates to take proper
396 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
precautions to maintain order, with the result that it was some
time before the government took steps to back up the pohce
force of Johannesburg and the S.A.C. in their efforts for the
maintenance of order.
In the homeland politicians were clamouring that the
Chinese were slaves, but the truth of the matter was that they
were more free than any domestic in the King's dominions, and
if it had been intended that the employment of Chinese on the
mines of the Rand was to be made so unpopular with the
inhabitants outside the Rand that they would demand their
removal from the country, the mine owners could not have
done more to attain the object. The roll call at the compounds
was only once a week, with the natural result that ere long
there were large parties of Chinese wandering about the coun-
try, robbing houses and murdering and maiming any persons,
black or white, who resisted them. Dwellings were blown
up with dynamite, which those wretches soon learned how
to use. They were inveterate gamblers, and it seemed to be
a religion with them that money must be obtained somehow
to pay their gambling losses, or death at the hands of the
winners would be their portion. There were many criminals
amongst them, and some, who had served in the Chinese army,
were able to lead their parties in pursuit of plunder. These
people were not the miserable, puny specimens that one usually
sees in towns in America, working in laundries or as domestics ;
they were, on the contrary, a weU-built, athletic class, many of
them over six feet in height and proportionally built.
This condition of affairs soon threw the whole rural popula-
tion into a state of alarm, and towards the end of 1905 some
of the farmers around the Rand were abandoning their homes
to get further away from it. Very soon it was estimated that
thousands of Chinese were wandering about the country.
I think the number was exaggerated, but many thousands
were out at a time, and several parties were captured as far
north as the confines of the Transvaal. They made the excuse
that they were on their way back to China by the overland
route ! In September, 1905, the marauders had become
such a menace that I had to place an extra number of posts
to watch the Rand and intercept any who were going north.
POPULAR OPINION 397
and eventually there were mobile troops placed around to
assist the districts.
Late in 1905 a Royal Commission was appointed, at the
request of a prominent member of the Inter-Colonial Council,
to investigate the S.A.C. Good though the reputation of the
force was, it was enhanced by the findings of the commission,
and the object of the gentleman who brought the matter up
was totally defeated, in spite of the fact that a large number
of subalterns had been called upon to express their opinions,
and their seniors and, one might say, their betters from a
military or constabulary and public point of view, left out.
The evidence of the people at large, and the Boer farmers
in particular, was unanimously favourable to the force.
They were taken haphazard, wherever found, and one and all
stated that the duties of the force were well performed, the
officers and men minded their own business, did not mix up
with the little affairs of the neighbourhood, were moral,
temperate and helpful to all.
Shortly after this it was arranged that the force should be
reduced to the lowest possible limits, and my division was
absorbed. I was offered the command of the Orange River
Colony division of the force, its commandant having gone on
leave, but, believing that he desired to return, I refused to
take it.
Colonel Nicholson gave up the command at the redistribution,
and I was appointed inspecting staff officer, which office I was
to hold until my leave had expired. The force at this time
was at its best, and before he left the colonel informed me
that he considered my division as near perfection as it could
be, and that it was my work which brought about that result.
He said even more which it is not necessary for me to mention,
and, in connection with this, I wish to say that no man can
make anything perfect without the assistance of others ; the
main thing is to get it started in the right direction. I had done
so, and had the support and assistance of as good and sound
a lot of officers as anyone could desire. There were no better
in the country, and I look back with pleasure and great
satisfaction to the loyal support which I received.
Colonel Nicholson left behind him a good name. He was a
398 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
kind friend to the force and a capable officer. I had often the
pleasure of talking over matters with him, and have had him
say to me that if any of the officers or their famiUes needed
a change for the benefit of their health, his purse was at my
disposal to draw upon to give them a trip " home," or if
officers convalescing after illness required a rest, they could
go home at his expense, or unmarried officers could come and
stay with him for a time until they were better, and he asked
me not to let any know the source from which the funds were
drawn. I do not think, however, that I am violating a con-
fidence at this date, and I believe distinctly in doing justice
to the living as well as to the dead.
In January, 1906, their Royal Highnesses the Duke and
Duchess of Connaught and Princess Patricia visited the South
African Colonies, Their reception from all nationalities was
most enthusiastic, and from none more than the Dutch people,
who vied with those of British birth or descent to show their
appreciation of the visitors.
In Pretoria there were garden parties, a horse show, reviews
of the troops, a grand military tattoo and torchlight procession,
which took place on the great square before the government
buildings, where, owing to the removal of the old Dutch
Reformed Church to another site, there was ample space for
the massed bands, and other ceremonies. At that time I was
very busy with the suppression of the Chinese outrages, and
could not spare much time to attend many of the functions
to which my wife and I were invited.
We had to consider the arrangement of a cordon of posts
around the Rand and the necessity for the taking of further
measures to put an end to the wanderings of the Chinese.
I was requested to take charge of the work as a special case,
and command posts as well as the mobile squadrons. I asked
for time to think it over, as my time was almost up and I
had arranged to return to Canada. I then called upon Lord
Selbome in connection with that and other matters, and as
he also asked me to take command I consented, on account
of the importance of the duty.
I submitted to him a memorandum on the subject. I con-
sidered that the compounds were not properly supervised, and
CHINESE OUTRAGES 399
recommended that the Chinese labourers should be placed
imder police supervision ; that a roll, or a count, of all the
labourers should be made every day and any absentees reported
at once ; that telephones should be established between
compounds and police posts and, if possible, along the whole
chain of posts. I also recommended that the compounds
be so constructed that when the labourers went out they filed
■out through the same channel.
The recommendations with regard to the compounds and
telephones were considered impracticable. I quite understood
that if wear and tear of horseflesh and men did not matter we
could do without the telephones ; but to put an end to the
Chinese outrages and other depredations without carr5dng out
what I suggested about the compounds meant that we might
have to maintain a chain of posts around the Rand area at
^eat expense to the country as long as the Chinese were
■employed in the mines. There was no help for it, however,
and as I had already a number of posts I went on with the
placing of others to make the cordon complete. The Rand
was so extensive that my detachments had to be posted so that
they formed an irregular oval of not less than 300 miles in
circumference, and on an average about 10 miles from the
mines, so that the deserters could be seen by the day patrols
and, if they left at night they would have a long walk from the
mines to the farm-houses nearest the Rand, or to pass our chain
of posts before daylight.
The detachments consisted, as a rule, of five men and
averaged five miles apart, with a regular system and connec-
tions. Each one sent out patrols during the day and night.
The first patrols would go out towards the Rand, and on their
return the relief would patrol outwards from the line of posts
for some hours, to capture any who might have passed through
the line during the night, and to visit farms, orchards and
plantations where some of them might be concealed, waiting
for an opportunity to take some farm by surprise. Patrols
had to move about at night in the vicinity of the farms and
on roads leading to the Rand. They had orders to make
themselves acquainted with all the farmers and storekeepers
and call upon them frequently ; they were to be asked for
400 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
information and were expected to report the presence of any
Chinese.
When I took over the duty a number of farmers and their
famiUes were absent from their homes through fear of the
Chinese, and I gave orders to have them advised that they
could return and would be protected, and need have no fear
after the new posts were out ; in the event of any of the
farmers being away on business, they could have one of our
men to take charge during their absence. It was suggested
from headquarters that they could stay in the houses that they
were protecting but, as the Chinese were likely to take them
by surprise or blow up the houses over their heads, and a man
in the house would be in equal danger, I directed the few that
I placed to remain outside and move around.
This work was strenuous for all of us. I was out every
morning at five or six o'clock, except when I had to be in
Pretoria or at headquarters on duty, and during the time I
had command of the cordon, in addition to complete tours
to visit aU outposts, I inspected at least 800 farm-houses and
showed the occupants how they could make them secure, took
the names and addresses of aU, ascertained if they had fire-
arms or if they needed any, and made typewritten reports
for headquarters. When I made the complete tour of inspec-
tion round the chain of posts without seeing many of the
farmers, I covered the ground at the average rate of 60 miles
per day, but on my trip to call on all of the farmers as I went
along I only averaged about half that speed.
On my way round I learned that there were no more popular
people in the colony than the South African Constabulary.
The Boers are, as all the world knows, good scouts, no better
anywhere, and when they were asked if they had any sugges-
tions to make with regard to the scouting and patrolling, they
invariably stated that the men were doing splendid work, no
men could do better, and that they were kind and civil to
them and their families. I found the people hospitable, always
ready to offer at least a cup of coffee and a shce of bread and
butter and some fruit.
On one of my trips I noticed that the farmer and two little
children were the only persons in sight at one of the houses.
DRASTIC MEASURES 401
and I asked if his wife was at home, as I should like to find out
her view of the trouble we were having. He replied that his
wife was dead. She had left the two children with another
woman and went to the front during the late war to fight
beside her husband ; nothing could dissuade her from going.
She wore men's clothes, fought in several of the hardest battles,
and was killed in one of them ! It was a sad case, but I beheve
there were similar ones.
By the middle of March the mobile troops and detachments
of the districts round the Rand had captured the whole of the
wandering Chinese, the murderers had been brought to justice,
and a great deal of skill displayed by Captain Trew and his
officers and men working up the cases and prosecuting, but
for all that the coolies continued their efforts, and our patrols
were kept busy night and day. The neglect of our suggestions
by the foreign labour department and the looseness of the
discipUne at the compounds made it a hopeless task to prevent
the Chinese from getting out, all that we could do was by
constant vigilance to protect the inhabitants from outrages.
Several conflicts had occurred when arrests were being made,
and cooHes had to be shot in self-defence.
On my rounds the Boer farmers, anxious to keep within the
law, used to ask me what they should do if the Chinese came
upon their premises at any time, and I advised them that they
must not on any account, or with any excuse, no matter how
plausible, permit one of them to approach. They should
shoot if they kept coming, either day or night, after being
warned back.
The necessity for such drastic measures had been evident
to me from the first, but I had given no instructions as yet to
any of the Boer farmers. There had been proof already that
the Chinese should be treated as burglars or highwaymen, and
there was more added to what we already had in our possession
when an outrage was committed on a farm on KUpriversberg,
a part of the Rand patroUed by the Transvaal Town Pohce
of Johannesburg. A large party of Chinese had attacked the
house, robbed it and maltreated everyone of the occupants
by breaking their hmbs, and the victims, when found, were at
the point of death. Had they made a fight of it all would have
20
402 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
been murdered. This crime brought me a letter from the
Inspector General, who had been asked by the High Commis-
sioner how such an outrage could be committed, how it might
be prevented, and if it had occurred within the area patrolled
by the S.A.C.
I repHed that such an outrage was quite possible under the
present system of Chinese management unless every farmer
was properly armed and his house made secure with bolts, bars
and shutters. In all cases where the habitation was isolated
from other dwellings I advised that there should be at least
two men at night, one of them, if possible, a pohceman, and
both well armed. I also recommended the posting of other
troops at various spots.
I pointed out that the root of the evil was at the mines. It
is well known that 20 per cent, of the coolie labourers were
absent at one time from the majority of the mines on the Rand,
which did not speak well for the management of the compoimds.
It was clear to me that if something were not done soon to
put a stop to the crimes of the cooUes they would have to be
deported from South Africa.
My letter bore fruit at once. The posts suggested were
placed and a mobile troop patrolled the kopjes. The new posts
were able to send men to guard the isolated farms, and aU that
was needed was for the discipline at the compounds to be im-
proved and the farmers who had no arms to be supplied with
them. We could not, however, compel the mine owners to
fence the compounds as I had suggested previously, and many
times since, although it was decidedly their desire to retain the
coohes.
On April 11, however. Lord Selbome appointed a Royal
Commission, presided over by Mr. Rose Innes, K.C., Resident
Magistrate of Pretoria. I appeared before them armed with a
great deal of sound information with regard to the coolies at
home, in the Dominion of Canada, and in the United States,
which had been collected by travellers, soldiers, missionaries
and consuls. I had my own personal knowledge of the habits,
manners and customs of the coolies as coal, metal and placer
miners in America, as navvies in British Columbia and the
United States, and I had in my pocket the blue book contain-
THE MERCILESS CHINESE COOLIE 403
ing the report of the Royal Commission which had met in 1902
in British Columbia to inquire into the Chinese question in
that province. Captain Sampson, of the T.T.P., a friend of
the days in Macleod district when he had a large ranch on
Mosquito Creek, Alberta, was also before the commission to
give evidence.
In my evidence I suggested all that I had mentioned in
previous letters, except telephones, and laid stress on the
necessity for fencing the mining compounds, having guards,
lights, very few exits, and cells for deserters. I recommended
that there should be a uniform system of passes, that the area
within which the coohes could be given passes should be much
smaller, and that a Chinaman misapplying his pass by going
in any other direction within that area should be arrested as a
deserter. I advised that revolvers or shot guns, the latter with
buck shot ammunition, should be issued free to the farmers
whose names I had submitted to the Inspector General, with
the cost that would be necessary to put the houses in a defen-
sible state, and informed the commission that I had personally
visited 800 farms around the Rand, examined the houses,
talked to the people, and knew that the rural population, and
even the Kaffirs, were in a state of alarm that would not have
existed in war time. I explained the merciless character of
the Chinese cooHe and his disregard for the sufferings he in-
flicted upon his victims, his slim ways, which enabled him to
enter houses with such stealth in the night that the inmates
would hear nothing until purposely aroused. I concluded by
recommending a careful roll call and check rounds, and insisted
that the trouble was aggravated by the lack of supervision at
the compounds.
After this I received authority to purchase shot guns and
buck shot cartridges for the farmers, but, as might have been
expected, the whole of the recommendations of the board were
not brought into effect. There was a roll call daily at the
compounds, but, except in a very few cases, they were not
fenced.
While these affairs were interesting the inhabitants of the
Transvaal the war in Natal had become serious, and it was
decided to have the mobile troops sent into the districts where
3C*
404 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
our natives were numerous, such as Lydenberg, Swaziland,
the Zoutpansberg, etc., and I was authorized to man the
Chinese cordon with special constables selected from amongst
the Boer farmers around the country, but recruits for that
service came in very slowly, horses being difficult to get. It
was the winter of that part of the world, and many of the
farmers had their horses in the low country. In the meantime
the mobile troops had to hold all their stations except the few
posts nearest the mines.
The special constables were to be paid five shillings per day
and their horses one shilling, but in time it was found that the
men could not maintain themselves on those rates, and they
were increased to a fairly good amount. The whole of the
cordon was not filled with Dutch farmers until the month of
July, and the mobile troops relieved and dispatched to their
destinations, but many detachments of Boers had been already
placed.
During this reorganization I saw much of Sir Richard
Solomon, who was at the time Acting Lieutenant Governor of
the Transvaal, and from him I received the officers who were
to serve under me on the chain of outposts. They had been
recommended to him by General Louis Botha, and were Major
Pretorius and Captain Kruger, of the Boer artillery, well-
trained soldiers ; Mr. Keyter, of Schoongezicht, who had under
him the Heidelberg commando at the siege of Ladysmith ; Mr.
van Dam, commandant of the Zarps or Johannesburg Police
before and during the war ; Mr. Kroon, a Hollander, and Mr.
Beignault, a Boer, both of whom had served on commando.
Of the three first named I saw most, and I formed a favourable
impression of them. They were faithful workers and most
hospitable. Mr. Keyter lived at a pretty spot near the kopjes
about three hours' drive from Johannesburg, and I often spent
the week-end with him and learned much of the doings of both
sides during the war. His commando had been kept busy
around Ladysmith, and he had been sent away from there to
annoy Lord Roberts' advance, when it was found impossible
to prevent the relief of the beleaguered city. Six thousand
men were withdrawn, but there was a sufficient force left to
equal Sir Redvers Buller's and endeavour to hold the line.
THE GERMAN SOLDIER 405
As we all know, and the general said, there was " no way
round," and the obstacles to Sir Redvers BuUer's advance
were enormous, I was very naturally pleased to know what
a high opinion the Boers had of Sir Redvers Buller as a fighting
man. They themselves said, "It is not only the burghers
who respected Sir Redvers Buller, but their wives and families ;
both considered him not only one of the best of soldiers, but
one of the most chivalrous of men." As Keyter said, it was
impossible to turn the Boer flanks in the advance from the
Tugela to Ladysmith, but in other parts of the theatre of war
they had no sooner taken up a position than it was turned by
superior numbers.
I had many interesting conversations with Captain Kruger,
who had commanded the Creusot guns of the Boers, about
everything in his experience, and found him to be a very well-
informed, bright, frank young fellow. He had been trained
by German artillerymen, and informed me that before the war
they had very naturally told him that their army was the
best in the world and their soldiers the best, and that, even
after the war was in full swing, he thought it was possible
that they might be right, but when he was with the Germans
in the campaign against the Hereros he changed his opinion
entirely, and he had no doubt that the British officer and
soldier had more resource. The soldiers were well treated by
their officers, which was not the case with the others ; the
treatment the German soldier received was cruel in comparison,
and it destroyed his initiative. To their prisoners of war, too,
the British were always as kind as could be.
After the Boers were posted in the chain of outposts I was
constantly amongst them, made long treks and was much
pleased with the way they met my wishes. Everything was
done well, the S.A.C. system being continued and found to be
the best. The work was as hard as ever ; constant vigilance
had to be exercised, and some of the Chinese got into the
kopjes near Heidelberg, and I h^d to get more special con-
stables for detachments which I had to place at least 35 miles
from the Rand. The district men of the S.A.C. were kept going
night and day, but outrages were kept down, for no sooner
did we find the trail of the wretches than they were captured
4o6 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
and punished. The immunity could not last long, however,
for the compounds had been improved but little. There were
tens of thousands of Chinese in the mines, and, although the
great majority were inclined to behave well and save money,
there were large numbers who gambled and would break
out to rob the farms. One night the house of a Mr. Smit, of
Klipriversberg, was attacked by nine of the miscreants, who
had, with their usual patience, lain in some kopjes not far
distant for the whole day, watching the house. Two con-
stables from a detachment which had not yet been relieved by
the Boers had been sent to guard it, and lay in the orchard
watching the building. They saw two of the Chinese place
dynamite cartridges, one at the end and the other at the side
of the house next them, and after setting their fuses prepare
to light their matches, whereupon one of the constables fired
two shots, killing both. Mr. Smit, aroused by the sounds,
came out rifle in hand, and the other seven were captured
in the act of dragging the dead away. While the fiends were
placing the dynamite cartridges one of the gang had set fire
to the thatch, but the constables extinguished it before it had
gained headway.
On May 30 I went with Sir Richard Solomon to the office
of the Chamber of Mines, Johannesburg, and, after a great deal
of discussion about all matters, it was ordered that, as I had
suggested before, the area to which the Chinese were restricted
would be reduced in size and posts placed round to define it.
The compounds were to be enclosed ; five men to be in charge
of them, and have a lock-up for delinquents, and one of them to
be on gate duty all the time. The members present stated
that there was a roll call, as had been arranged before at the
meeting of the commission.
"When everything had got into proper working order, the
Chinese wanderings had been reduced to almost nothing and
every marauder and deserter either on his way back to China
or in prison, I sent in my resignation. I made a final tour of
the chain of detachments, and said good-bye to every man of
the force, Briton and Boer, and wished him good luck. All
expressed regret that I was going, and many of the Boers said
they were sorry, because I understood them.
A FACTOR IN CONCILIATION 407
I went over to see Keyter on Saturday, September 8, and
was busy with him next day until ten o'clock. A number of
his men were there in their Sunday dress with arms, and I
asked him if they were going to church, and he replied, " No,
they are going to escort you to near Klip River, and from
there they will ride straight back to their posts." I thanked
him for the kind thought and mounted for my last trek with
the Boers. Mrs. Keyter and a friend of hers, Miss van der
Merwe, came with us in a carriage, and Kejrter with his men
formed a strong travelling escort beyond Klip River post,
about two hours' drive. Then the ladies alighted, and Keyter
formed up his men on the side of the road, and addressed me
on behalf of himself and his men, saying that I had come out
to fight for the crown, and, that duty having been done well with
the " Big Stirrups " and the S.A.C., I had worked with success
to reconcile Briton and Boer, and if all would do the same
there would not be an enemy of the King in the whole of South
Africa. He added that I had understood the Boers and that
the South African Constabulary had been by far the greatest
factor of all the government departments in conciliating the
Boers and teaching them what good people Britons were.
On September 18 I went to Johannesburg to visit head-
quarters and settle up my affairs with the force, and the same
forenoon went to the Simmer and Jack mine on the in\dtation
of the manager and Mr. Stokes, an ex-officer of the S.A.C.,
who had a biUet there. After lunch Mr. Stokes conducted me
round the compounds, in which 4,000 Chinese lodged ; all
were well cared for and disciplined under the direction of my
friend Stokes, and a perfect system was maintained to prevent
desertions. Those coolies were as well fed and treated as the
very best I have seen anywhere, either black or white men.
Large bath-rooms with hot baths were provided, ample sleeping
accommodation, the food was plentiful and weU cooked by
steam, as that was the way the coolies desired it, and they used
only three-fourths of their allowance. The kitchens were
commodious and clean, in the comer of each mess-room huge
boxes of tea grown in China and of their own choice were
placed, and each labourer helped himself.
In addition to the regular kitchens there were others in
4o8 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
which the coolies could cook any special tit-bit of their own,
and I saw several of them busy there. After the messing I
saw the system of pay, which was by card ; each labourer had
two, one pink and the other white ; the latter was marked at
the end of the shift by the white shift boss with the number of
inches that the Chinaman had drilled, and that was presented
with the pink ticket at the pay office, and the value of the
work done marked on the latter by a clerk. At the end of the
month both tickets were presented, and the coolie paid his
earnings, which were, I was informed, about double that of
a Kaffir, which, from what I had observed, was a correct
statement.
After seeing the compounds I visited the quarters and
reading-rooms provided for the European miners who superin-
tend the Chinese at their work. There was a very large supply
of the latest papers and periodicals, and the men seemed to be
comfortable and contented, earning from ;^5o to ;;fioo per
month.
The Simmer and Jack is the largest single gold mine in the
world. There were 47 miles of underground workings, and
60,000 tons of ore were crushed every month . The yield for the
previous month was £97,000 sterling in gold, and the mine had
360 stamps working steadily. The manager was an American
and the underground mining engineer a Canadian. The
salary of the former was £7,000 a year and of the latter £5,000
and I was informed that the deepest workings were 4,000 feet
beneath the surface, and that at such great depths the mines
are cooler than in any other part of the world.
It was a pleasure to go over this great property and see
what could be done when a perfect system prevails. If the
same could have been brought into force when the Chinese
were first employed, there would have been no annoyance given
to the inhabitants of the Transvaal, and the Chinese, if desired,
could have been retained. I was informed before I left for
Pretoria that the Simmer and Jack mine had at that date
33 years of life before it, and probably 50, when all ground is
worked.
On September 30 my wife and I went to Johannesburg to
say good-bye to the Earl and Countess of Selbome. Lord
WITH THE MILK TO LONDON 409
Selbome was kind enough to say that I had done " marvel-
lously good work," and thanked me heartily for it.
We returned to Pretoria next day. My wife by that time
was very ill ; she had suffered for at least two months with
dreadful headaches, which the worry of leaving for England
had aggravated to a very great extent, and, had her mother
not been on a visit to us, I should have been in sore straits.
We received hundreds of kind letters from all parts of South
Africa, and many came to call and say good-bye. We left
on October 2 in a violent storm of rain, but many friends came
to see us off in spite of the weather.
We sailed on the Suevic on October 7. I had thought
that a sea voyage would do my wife good, but it was
not so, for long before we reached England she became
insensible and remained so for at least a month after we
landed. She would certainly have died on the voyage had
it not been that Miss Dudley, an army nurse, happened to be
on board, and her care and that of my wife's mother, Mrs.
Harwood, saved her life. Everyone else was most solicitous
and kind ; a very pretty young German lady, Miss Hasenrahm,
of Hamburg, gave up her berth, which suited my wife better
than the one she was in, and others were so kind on her behalf
that we owe them a lifelong debt of gratitude.
We landed in England at Tilbury Docks on November i,
1906, and left the ship for the train, with my wife in a stretcher.
There was no provision for sick people, and I had to put my
wife in the baggage car amongst cans of milk for London.
There were no seats, so we stood until we arrived, the monotony
of the journey being broken very often by the advent of more
cans of milk. Until my wife was fit to be moved I took a
comfortable fiat in Kensington, and the children were sent
to school as soon as possible.
When I was in Africa Sir Frederick Borden, always con-
siderate to me, had arranged that I could be permitted by the
War Office to be attached for duty with the Inspector General
of Cavalry, Major General Baden-PoweU, who was finishing
the last year of his appointment, and it gave me much pleasure
to have the privilege of being with him. My wife's illness pre-
vented me from being as much with him as I should have
410 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
liked, but I took advantage of a great deal, and it was pleasant
to find that he was so well thought of by every cavalry officer
I met. In addition to my experience with him I took lectures
and read and re-read every book which could be of use, visited
Woolwich Arsenal under the auspices of Major H. Bland
Strange, the son of one of my very best friends, General Strange,
who showed me everything, and, as I always admired the
artillery service and have kept up my studies in it, I was glad
of the opportunity afforded me to go over that remarkable
place.
Mrs. Harwood and the children saw a good deal of the metro-
polis, and when my wife was fully restored to health we had
the pleasure of meeting General and Mrs, T. Bland Strange at
their hospitable home at Camberley, and enjoyed a couple of
week-ends there. We also met Sir George and Lady French
and their daughters. It was like old times on the plains of the
then wild west to meet those who had done so much for me,
and I was indeed delighted to find the man who " made " the
Canadian Artillery in such splendid health and taking such a
deep interest in the affairs of the country.
My wife and I paid a delightful visit to my relatives in Aber-
gavenny and Blaenavon. We stayed a while in both places
and enjoyed every moment of the time. In April I visited
Scotland, and with the most delightful weather made a long
stay with friends. I had a glorious time. We visited every
important battlefield, inspected the bottle dungeon of St.
Andrew's, saw the golf course with its thousands of braw
people, and, in fact, almost everything from Holyrood to the
" bore stone " and the home of the Fair Maid of Perth. We
visited farms, castles, picture galleries and cathedrals, just
the thing I liked, and the only thing to mar the occasion was
the thought that at that time my wife felt that it would not
be wise for her to undertake the journey while she was not
quite strong.
In London the first to call upon us was the High Commis-
sioner, Lord Strathcona, who was so kind as to offer to write
the foreword to this book. He has, since I met him in Canada,
departed to his reward, fuU of years and honours, leaving a
great and honoured name and reputation behind him. During
MY NEW COMMAND 411
our stay in London no one could have been more kind and
sympathetic than he, and when my wife had recovered we saw
much of him and Lady Strathcona, who pre-deceased him but
a short time.
During the latter part of the winter Sir Frederick Borden
was in London, and was so good as to give me the command
of MiUtary District No. 13, with headquarters at Calgary. In
May I left England with my family for Montreal, and after a
deUghtful trip up the noble St, Lawrence, and a short but
pleasant stay in Montreal and Ottawa, I went west in time to
take command of the camp of training at Calgary, which had
assembled a few days before, in the last week of July, 1907.
Subsequently I was transferred to Winnipeg, and have
devoted myself to the work of organizing new units, a pleasant
task when the officers of my staff, the permanent force and the
officers and men of the mihtia are so keen and work so har-
moniously. The force over the whole of the western districts
has increased to a remarkable but absolutely necessary extent
in the last few years. Two valuable assets to the country have
sprung into being and are watched over by the Departments
of Mihtia and Education. They are the cadet movement and
the physical training of boys and girls in the public schools,
and the quaUfication of teachers for the work of instructing.
They are making great progress, the improvement in the bear-
ing and physique of the teachers and children being very re-
markable. The cadets are allowed to spend a week in camp,
a dehghtful outing for the boys, with their instructors, teachers
and clergy, and under a good staff of officers, who instruct them
in the best of the Boy Scout work and mihtary drill. The
physical training is compulsory in all schools in Canada, but
the military training for cadet service is volimtary.
At Calgary I met many whom I had known from the days
when the buffalo roamed and the city of Calgary, with its
75,000 inhabitants, was not even a name. Amongst the officers
was the doyen of them all. Colonel James Walker, on whose
powerful shoulders the winters of the north and the struggles
with the forces of nature had no effect, whose hearty hand
clasp and frank, kindly gaze said, " You can depend upon me."
The changes which had taken place during my absence of
412 FORTY YEARS IN CANADA
seven years made me rub my eyes and wonder if I were dream-
ing. Hundreds of thousands of settlers had come into the great
west. It seemed impossible that Winnipeg, with its 200,000
citizens, its fine stores, palatial residences and well-paved, wide
streets, was the hamlet of 40 houses and less than 300 persons
that I remembered. Regina, whose site I had driven and
ridden over when the nearest habitation was the Hudson's Bay
Company's post at Fort Qu'appelle, 50 miles distant, was now
a railway centre, a beautiful city with parks, fine residences,
magnificent pubhc buildings, and encircled by smiUng farms.
There were similar changes at Moose jaw, no longer " Moosejaw
bone," but a hvely railway town with fine farms in every
direction. Swift Current had sprung into existence and, with
Maple Creek, Medicine Hat and other places, was growing fast.
I was not long in visiting Edmonton on duty, and found a
bustling and beautiful place, towering above the fine river, with
stores and residences that would be a credit to a place a hundred
years old. It was hardly credible that this was the place where
we wintered in 1875, with only half a dozen poplar log houses
in sight, and later, during the rebeUion, only a village !
It was the same aU over western Canada, and we, who had
been the pioneers of this glorious change, were permitted by
Providence to see the fruits of our labours and our hardships.
THE END
INDEX
Abercorn, the Duke and Duchess
OF, 358, 361
Aberdeen, the Earl of, 361
Abergavenny, i, 3, 366, 410
Adamson, Lieutenant, 346
Agitators in South Africa, 395
Agnew's Crossing, 203
Ah-Tuk-Ah-Coop, Chief, 103, 105
Alaskan boundary, the, 290
Alberta, 211, 231, 268, 271, 403
Alberta Field Force, the, 190, 212,
231
Alberta Mounted Rifles, the, 211,
213, 224
Alexandra, Queen, 358
Amateur hangman, an, 238
Amatonga Land, 343
Amazons, Boer, 401
American miners, 288
American Relief Expedition, the,
291, 293, 309
Ancestors of Colonel Steele, 1-4
Ancient Sun, Chief, 120
Anderson, Constable, 245
Anderton, W. S., 278
Annihilation of General Custer's
army, 107, 108, 123
Antelopes, tame, 114
Antidotes for snake-bites, 385
Archibald, Lt. -Governor, 31-34, 37,
46
Arctic Express Company, the, 325
Ardnamurchan, the Macdonalds of, i
Argyll, the Duke and Duchess of,
358, 359
Armer, Corporal, 282
Armstrong, a scout, 210
Artillery, battery of, and school of
gunnery at Kingston, 47-53
Artillery, brigade of, at Fort Henry
49-51
Ashon, John. 86
Mrs., 86
" AssineePo-en "or" AssineePo-el,"
132
Assiniboine, Fort, 263
Assiniboine Indians, 55, 56, 106, no,
132, 144, 148, 152-155, 161, 263
Atlin Lake, 317, 318
Audy, Corporal, 379
James, 379
Aylmer, the Hon. F., 245
Baboons, 382
Bad Young Man, or Dried Meat, see
Charcoal
Baden-Powell, Major-General, 366-
371, 388, 409, 410
Baird, murder of, 193, 194, 232, 233
Baker, Hyde, 251
Baker, Colonel James, 245, 248,
250-253
Baker and Co., I. G., 109, no, 149
Bank of British North America, the
306
Bank of Commerce, the, 306, 323
Bank of Montreal, the, 362
Banquet to Strathcona's Horse at
Montreal, 340, 341
Banquets given by Lord Strathcona
in honour of Strathcona's Horse,
360-362
Barberton, 351
Baril portage, 23, 24
Bamato's, Barney, lions, 370
Barr, Dr., 309
Barton, Major-General, 352, 353,
356
on Strathcona's Horse, 353,
356
Bartram, Mr., 364
Batman and stokers, 367
Batoche, 185, 201, 203, 208-210
Battle River, 212, 214
Battleford, 201, 202, 207, 217-220,
238, 239, 242
Battleford Rifles, the, 242
Bear Paw Mountains, the, 151, 263
Beardy, Chief, 103
Bear's Back Bone, an Indian, 281,
284
Bear's Cap, Chief, 124, 130
2D
413
414
INDEX
Beatty, a Chippeway scout, 220
Beaver Creek, 283
Beaver, delicious food, 89
Beaver Lake, 212, 215
Beaver River, 188, 194-198, 201,
212, 230
Beaverfoot Pass, 188
Bedson, Mr., 208, 230
Begg, Magnus, 181, 184
Beignault, Mr., 404
Belcher, Major Robert, 290, 293,
294, 297, 298, 306, 307, 315, 323,
351, 361
Bell, Constable, 325
Belly River, 265, 282
Bennett, Lake, 289, 290, 293, 295,
297, 299-303, 306, 309-315, 318,
319, 326
Benton, Fort, 108, 126, 142, 143
Bergen dal Farm, 349
Beyers, ex-Commandant, 375
Big Bear, Chief, 106, 136, 139, 172,
212, 216, 218-220, 223, 224, 227-
229, 231, 238
Big Bend, 278
Big Horn River, 262, 263
Big Mary, 55
Big Mike, an Iroquois, 26, 27
Big Sandy, 262
" Big Stirrups," 407
Birdwood, Major, 356
Biscotasing, 267
Bison, 76
Blackfeet Indians, 36, 56-71, 75,
79-81, 113-117, 120, 121, 132, 134,
148, 152, 176, r8o-i85, 197, 211,
242, 276, 277
Blaenavon, 410
Blind Man's River, the, 214
Bloemfontein, 342
Blood Indians, 79, 113, 115, 117,
120, 134, 148, 150-152, 185, 211,
258, 262-266, 271, 277-286
Bobtail, Chief, 212, 214
Boer delegates* visit to the overseas
dominions, 378
Boer Generals, 372
Boer ladies, the kindness of, 354
Boer women and children in the
concentration camps, 368
Boers and Kaffirs, 375, 378, 386
Boers friendly to the S.A.C., 39S,
397. 400. 407
Bonanza, 289, 300, 302, 309, 333
Bond, a whisky-trader, 77, 78
" Boosting," 299
Borden, Sir Frederick, 339, 363, 364,
409, 411
Borden, Dr., 341
Botha, General, 350, 372, 385, 404
Boulton, Major, 9, 10
Boundary Creek, 273
Bow River, 180, 187, 237
" Box rushers," 296, 297
Boyd, Captain Alexander, 364, 367
Boyle, Mr., 335
Brandon, 164
Braves, young, 132-134, 262-265
Brett, Dr., 191
Bridge made of frozen hay, a, 238
Bright, R., 279, 280
British Association, the, 191
British Columbia, 169, 180, 186,
187, 194, 233-235, 245, 262, 302,
317, 318, 340
Brodrick, Mr. St. John, 361
Brothers, John, 300
Brotherton, Major, 160
Brotton, Mr., 283
Bruce, John, 7
Bruchesi, Archbishop, 341
Bubonic plague, 394
Buckingham Palace, Strathcona's
Horse at, 358
" Buckskin Charlie," 131
Buffalo bones, 247
Buffalo dance before the Marquess
of Lome, a, 161
Buffalo hunt in honour of the Mar-
quess of Lome, a, 161
Buffalo hunters, 43, 44, 87, 92-95?
161
Buffaloes lost to Canada, 146
Buffaloes tame, 114, 115
Buffeldorn Pass, 353
Buller, Sir Redvers, 20, 21, 26, 31,
344. 345, 348-351, 358, 361, 362,
404, 405
on Strathcona's Horse, 351
Burger, Vice-President Schalk, 350
Burrard Inlet, 236
Burstall, Captain, 321, 333
Butler, Captain, 59
Butler, Sir William, 24, 31, 37, 59
Butlin, Sergeant, 220, 221, 226
Button, Chief, 120
Buys Boers, 379, 380
Cadets, Can.\dian, 411
Calf Robe, an Indian, 264, 265
Calgary, no, 134, 153, 174-185, 190,
197, 201, 202, 211-214, 232, 268,
275, 308, 339, 411
Calgary-Edmonton Railway, 268,
272, 275
Cambridge, the Duke of, 358
INDEX
415
Cameron, Mr., 218, 223
Campbell, Chief Factor, 319, 320
Campbellton, 34 1
Canada, ignorance about, 366, 367
Canadian Gazette, The, 363
Canadian militia. Lord Wolseley's
praise of, 33
Canadian Mounted Rifles, the, 338,
339
Canadian Pacific Railway, the con-
struction of the, 164-169, 172, 176,
180, 186-201, 235-237, 241, 286
Canadian Press Association in the
North West, 165, 166
Canadian pluck in South Africa, 355
Can tan. Major, 367
Cape, the, 343, 357, 366, 367
Card, Mr., a Mormon, 269
Card, Mrs., " Aunt Zina," 269
Cardston, 268, 273, 282
Caribou Crossing, 301
Carlton, 67, 101, 103, 105, 154,
201-206, 228
Carr, Corporal, 70, 71, 75, 86
Carrot River, 208,
Cart as court-house, a, 172
Carter, Allan, 267
Cartwright, Captain, D.S.O., 361
Cartwright, Inspector, 298, 299
Carvell, Superintendent, 62
Casault, Lt.-Col., 37
Casement, Roger, 343 and note
Cattle diseases in South Africa, 376-
378, 393, 394
Crawford, Captain Jack, 304
Census taken by the S.A.C., the, 382,
393-395
Chabot, Trumpeter, 225
Chamberlain, Mr. Joseph, 361, 362,
385
Changes in Canada, 411, 412
Changes in the N.W.M.P., 143, 144
Charcoal, an Indian, 277-286
Charcoal's boy, 280, 281
Charitable gamblers, 330
Chater, Colonel, 359
Chestnut battery, the, 349
Chewing the cud, a young officer
and, 355
Chief Mountain, 273
Children of Colonel Steele, the, 274,
291, 337. 34i» 363, 385, 409, 410
Chilkoot Pass, 289, 290, 293-308,
313, 315
Chinese in South Africa, 395-408
Chinook, a remarkable, 244, 245
Chippeway (or Ojibbeway) Indians,
134, 161, 220, 228, 229
Christie, James, 131, 177
Christie, Lieutenant, D.S.O., 363
Christie, the Hon. W. J., 102, 105
Christmas at Clocolan, 355, 356
Christmas festivities, 274, 275, 355,
356
Church-going of the N.W.M.P., 239,
240
Churchill, Mr. Winston, 361
Clark, Frank, 145
Clarke, Captain Hugh, 4
Clarke, Lt.-Col.. 48
Clarke's Crossing, 209
Clarksburg Company, the, 5
Cleveland-Blain contest, the, 192,
193
Clocolan, 355, 356
Chute, inspector of customs, 313
Coal, no, 141, 142, 254, 255
Cochrane, Captain, 2
Cochrane, W., 266
Cocola, Father, 251
Colbome, Lt.-Gen. Sir John, 3
Cold Harbour, 236
Coleford, 366
Colman, Constable, 63, 64
Colman, John, 215
Colmer, Mr. Joseph, C.M.G., 357, 358
Colmer, Mrs., 358
" Colonel, a natural born," 332
Colonel and orderly, 32
Columbia Lakes, 246, 248
Columbia River, the, 187, 188, 194,
246
Commodore, an Indian, 280
Concentration camps, 368
Conference between the United States
commissioners and the Sioux chiefs,
123-130
Connaught, the Duke of, 14 and note,
358, 398
Connaught, the Duchess of, 358, 398
Conrad, the brothers, 143
Constantine, Father, no
Con Stan tine, Fort, 289
Constantine, Superintendent, 288,
300, 309
Contraband of war smuggled into
South Africa, 343
Cook, Captain, 33
Cooksley and the python, 379
Coryell, Lieutenant, J. A., 215, 220,
224, 225
Cotton, Lieutenant, 92, 150
Cotton, Superintendent, 211
Coucher, Miss, 2, 3
" Counting their coups," 262
" Coup sticks," 107 and note.
4i6 INDEX
Cowan, Constable, 218, 219 and note,
229, 230
Cowboy display, a, 266
Cowboy soldiers, 211, 213
Coyne, Sergeant-Major, 29
Craig, Constable, 199
Craigellachie, 236
Crater Lake, 297, 298
Cree Indians, 36, 56, 57, 66, 70, 71,
75. 113-115, 118, 132, 134. 136,
148, 155, 161, 220, 221, 227-231
Criminals in the Yukon, 327-329
Crocodiles in South Africa, 384, 390
Crofton, Colonel, 91
Cronje, General, 385
Crookston, 232, 233
Crow Indians, 134, 258, 262, 263, 278
Crowfoot, Chief, 79, 80, 114, 119-121,
181-185, 250
Crow's Nest Pass, 248, 286, 254, 255
Crozier, Major, 78, 148-153, 201-206,
239
Curran, John Philpot, 2
Curran, Midshipman, 2
Custer, General, 107, 108, 123
Cypress Hills, 131, 132, 144, 147
Dainard, Manuel, 193, 194, 233
Dakota, 196, 232
Dale, Major, 223
Dairy mple-Clark, Captain, loi
Dalton, Jack, 303, 304, 308
Dalton trail, the 308, 319
" Dance of the Stem," 102, 105
Dances opened with prayer, 267
Dangerous duty performed by
Inspector Wood, 313
Dangerous railway journey, a, 236
Dann, Sergeant, 181, 182
Davidson, Inspector, 279, 280
Davin, Nicholas Flood, 169
Davis, D. W., 273, 274, 288, 289, 323
Davis, Mrs. D. W., 273, 274
Davis Mr., premier of Manitoba, 30
Davis, Sergeant, 318
Dawson, City, 290-293, 301, 309-336
Dawson, Mr., 18, 19, 23, 31
Deadman's Creek, 245
Deane, Superintendent, 291
de Bombard, Alexis, 99
Decorations for Strathcona's Horse,
363
de Havilland, Captain, 367, 377, 391
Delagoa Bay, 344
Delagoa Bay Railway, the, 343
Delaney, Farm-Instructor, 216
Delaney, Mrs., 219
de la Rey, General, 372, 385
de Lotbinidre, the Marquis, 267
de Mont-Ferron, Xavier, 90
Dennis, Colonel, 8
Derby, the Earl of, 361
Deville, Pete, 292
de Wet, General, 352, 372
de Wetsdorp, 355
Dewdney, Lt. -Governor, 160, 166, 169
Diamond Jubilee, the N.W.M.P. at
the, 286
" Diamond R. Brown," iii
Dickens, Inspector, loi, 216-219, 229
Dickey, James A., 235, 236
Diehl, a scout, 210
Disarmament of the South African
Natives, the, 373, 377, 393, 394
Disputes between magistrates, 173,
234. 235
Dissatisfaction of the Kootenay
Indians, the, 245-254
Dixon, Corporal, 311, 314
Dixon Entrance, 291
Doidge, Sergeant, 22
Dominion mine, the, 309, 333
Donald, 187, 191, 194, 237
Double-barrelled Scissors, an Indian,
III
Dowling, Inspector, 175, 179
Drakensberg, 349
Dressy Man, Chief, 230
Drives, exciting, 273, 274
Drunkards made by prohibitory
laws, 177
Drury, Brevet-Colonel, 363
Duck Lake, 197, 204-207
Dufferin, the Earl of, 48, 49
Dufresne, Mr., 218, 223
Dugas, Judge, 323, 327, 335
Duke of Cornwall's Light Infantry,
the, 367
Dumont, Gabriel, 92-94, 205
Dundonald, Lord, 345, 346, 349-351.
361, 362
on Strathcona's Horse, 351
Dunmore, 243, 246, 267
Durban, 344 and note
Durham, Captain, 142
Duties and work of the N.W.M.P.,
the, 331, 256-260
Dwaar's River, 379
Dyea, 293, 295, 296, 299, 313, 326
Eagle Sitting Down, Chief,^i24
East Coast fever, 393
Eddy-Hammond & Co., 193
Edmonton, 67, 73, 74, 84-89, 207,
212-215, 231, 268, 275, 412
Education, Canadian, 411
INDEX
417
Edward VII. and Strathcona's
Horse, 35S, 359
Edward, Fort, 379
Edwards, Colonel, 354
Egan, John M., 235
Elandsfontein, 356
Elbow River, 185
Eldorado mine, the, 309, 333
Election riots in Manitoba, 44
Ellice, Fort, 67, 68, 154, 163
Eloff's house in Pretoria, 370
England, Strathcona's Horse in,
357-362
English Bay, 236
English Charley, 84
English colonists, 169-171
Erasmus, Peter, 102, 103
Ermine Skin, Chief, 212, 214
Esher's, Lord, commission on the
South African war, 357
Eshowe in Zululand, 343, 344
Esprit de corps of the N.W.M.P.,
175, 256
Evans, Lt.-Col., 321, 335, 363
Experience of a doctor at Skagway,
315,316
Extortion by American customs
officers, 313, 314
Extradition between Canada and
the United States, 144
Fane, Constable, 199, 200
Farwell, Abe, 55, 99
Father of Many Children, Chief, 120
Favel, Joe, 90
Fay, Father, 197
Feilden, Lt.-Col., 27
Fenians, 5, 12, 143, 276
Fenwick's Flat, 248
Ferguson, Sir James, 362
Fight, the last, in Canada, between
Indians, 155
Fines devoted to hospitals, 323
Fitzpatrick, Mr., 229
Five Fingers rapids, 319
Flags presented to Strathcona's
Horse, 341
Fleming, Mr. Sandford, 235
Fleming, Sir Sandford, 59
Flying Bird, Chief, 129
Foley, an interpreter, 134, 135
Foreigners in the Yukon Territory,
327
Fort Assiniboine, 263
Fort Benton, 108, 126, 142, 143
Fort Calgary, no, 153
Fort Carlton, 67, loi, 103, 105, 154
Fort Constantine, 289
Fort Edmonton, 67, 73, 74, 84-89
Fort Edward, 379
Fort ElUce, 67, 68, 154, 163
Fort Garry, 21, 24, 27-47, 60, 62,
238, 319, 320
Fort Hamilton, 54
Fort Henry, 49-51
Fort Kipp, 135
Fort Macleod, 106-110, 119, 130, 134-
136, 146, 151, 179, 211, 214, 242,
252-255, 260, 285
Fort Osborne, 174
Fort Pitt, 105, 106, 201, 212-223,
229-232
Fort Qu'appelle, 154, 159, 161, 162,
165, 206, 412
Fort Saskatchewan, 84, 88, 89, 207,
215
Fort Shaw, io8, 162
Fort Walsh, 108, 109, 124-127, 131,
134, 136, 139, 143-149, 154, 172
Fort William, 21 and note, 236
Fortescue, L., 335
Forty Mile Creek, 288
Fouquet, Father, 251
Four Mile Creek, 248
Eraser, Dr., 319
Eraser, Inspector "Wliite, 231
Eraser River, 237
Fraudulent contractor, a, 142
Frazer, Staff-Sergeant, 153
Frederickstadt, 352-355
Free traders, 87 and note
French, Major General Sir George,
47, 52, 60-62, 65 note, 75, 76, 82, 83,
92, 97, 100 and note, 351, 352
Frenchman's knoll, 222, 229
Frog Lake, 172, 212, 213, 216-219,
223, 224, 229, 238
Funeral of President Kruger, the,
395
Funerals in the Red River Settle-
ment, 43
Fury, Sergeant-Major, 194, 198-201,
225
Gagnon, Superintendent, 73-75,
85, 201, 202, 204
Galbraith Brothers, 245
Galbraith, Mr., 248, 252, 253
Galbraith's Ferry, 245, 248
Galvin, Pat, 300, 318
Gamblers, 109, 165, 167, 180, 194,
196, 292, 296, 298, 330
Game in South Africa, 383, 393
Game wardens, 383, 384, 393
Garry, Fort, 21, 24, 27-47, 60, 62,
238, 319, 320
4i8
INDEX
Gatsrand, 352
Geneille, Antoine, 97
" Gentiles," 269
Germiston, 352
Gibson, I. W., 238
Gleichen, 181-184
Glengarry, Ontario, 272, 293
Godson, John, 301, 303
Gold claims at Atlin Lake, 317, 318
Gold Run mine, 333
Gold rush to the Klondyke, 289-302
Golden, 188, 190, 191, 194, 247, 249
Good, Dr., 305, 306, 321, 322, 331
Good Samaritan hospital, Dawson,
the, 321, 332
Goodwin, Lt.-Col., 50
Goose, an intelligent, 139, 140
Goulet, Elzear, 34, 35, 37
Governor Generals' tours, 161-163,
265, 266
Gowanlock, Mrs., 219
Grady, Corporal, 37
Graham, ex-Constable, 132
Grant, Dr., 298, 306, 321, 332
Grant, Donald, 172
Grant, General U.S., 52, 143
Great Lone Land, the, 26, 53-58, 228
Great Lone Land, The, Butler's, 37,
345
Green Grass, an Indian scout, 282,
286
Greene, Corporal, 325
Grenadiers of Toronto, the loth, 364
Greyburn, Constable, the murder of,
146, 147, 150-152
Griesbach, Major, 60, 89, 171, 215
Griffith, Dave, 248
Gros Ventre Indians, 258, 263
Haines Mission, 303
Halifax, 339, 362
Halpin, Mr., 218, 223
Ham, George, 230
Hamilton, Fort, 54
Hamilton, Major, 383
Hardisty, Chief Factor, 74, 85
Hardships of the N.W.M.P., 297,
298, 308, 324
Harper, Inspector, 289, 290, 320
Harris, Howell, 56
Harris, Admiral Sir R., 343
Harrison, R. B., 263
Harwood, C. A., K.C., 341
Harwood, Dr. A. C. de L., 385
Harwood, Miss Marie Elizabeth, see
Steele, Mrs. S. B.
Harwood, Robert, M.P., 267
Harwood, Mrs. R. W., 385, 409, 410
Hasenrahm, Miss, 409
Hatton, Major, 211, 222-224
Hay in the Transvaal, 380
Hector, Dr., 188
Helena, 162, 263
Helvetia, 351
Henderson, Mr., 278, 279
Heneage, Lieutenant, R.E., 27
Henry, Sir Edward R., 372
Henry, Fort, 49-51
Herbert, Major General Sir Ivor, 360
Herchmer, Colonel, 180-182, 185,
231, 241, 246, 247, 255, 256, 339
Herron, John, 284
Hertford, the Marquess of, 360
Hicks, Colonel, 352, 353
Hildyard, Lieutenant, 367
Hill of the Murdered Scout, the, 65,
66
Hiiliam, Captain, 371, 385
HilUam, Mrs., 385
Hilliard, Staff-Sergeant C, 264, 265,
278
Hind Gun, an Indian, 263
Hogg, A. R., 188
Holloway, Scout, 283
Holmes, Hospital Steward, 157, 158
Holt, H. S., C.E., 188-190
Holtorf, Constable, 134, 135, 146
Holyrood, 410
" Ho-mux-a-stamix," Col. Irvine,
184
Honey bird, the, 385
Hoodoo, 203
Hootalinqua River, 325
Horse stealing, 57, iii, 130, 143-
145, 150-153, 257-264, 278
Horse, the wonderful escape of a,
189, 190
Horsemanship, extraordinary feats
of, 271, 272
Horsemanship, Indian, 102, 103, 105,
106, 115, 222, 253, 266
Howard, Captain, 361
Howard, Dr., 358, 364
Howard, the Hon. Mrs., 358, 364
Howard, scout, 127
Hudson's Bay Company, the, 6-9,
II, 12, 16, 21, 28, 29, 47, 53, 54,
56, 57. 59, 60, 82, 86, 87, 90, 98,
102, no, 163, 207, 212, 214, 215,
2i8, 223, 319, 320, 379, 412
Hudson's Bay Ferry, 209
Hudson's Bay Fort, 161
" Hudson's Bay Start," 65
Hughes, Lt.-Col., 212
Hulme, Mr., 359
Humboldt, 203, 208
INDEX
419
Humphries, Captain, 2
Hunt of Bad Young Man, the, 277-
286
Huot, Inspector, 245, 248
Hutton, Major-General, 361
Huyshe, Captain, 18
Ignace, voyageur, 24
Iguanas, 379
Illness of Mrs. Steele, the, 409, 410
Imperial Light-Horse, the, 353
In a hurry to be tried, 168
India River, 326
Indian honesty, 139
Indian piety, 91
Indian Treaties of 1876, the, ioi-io6
Indian Treaties of 1877, the, 117-
122
Indians, massacre of, 55
Ingram, Private, 355, 356
Initiation of the braves, 132-134
Inkster, the Hon. Colin, 41 note
Innes, Rose, K.C., 402
Insanitary state of Dawson, the, 321,
322
Irish Yeomanry, 356
Irrepressible joker, an, 228, 229
Irvine, Lt.-Col., 46, 47, 62, 99, 124,
125, 136, 139, 146, 156, 174, 181,
182, 184, 185, 202-211, 240, 241
Irvine, Colonel, unjustly blamed, 210
Isadore, Chief, 245-254
Jackes, Dr., 102
Jackson, a rioter, 201
Jarvis, Lt.-Col. S. P., 12 note, 31, 34,
37, 48
Jarvis, Supt., 60, 67, 69, 75, 84-91,
278-281, 286, 308, 319, 361, 377,
379, 391, 394
Jarvis, E. W., 88
Johannesburg, 367, 372, 407, 408
Johnston, George Hope, 196-200,
212, 235
Johnston of the Hog Ranche, 193
Joseph, Chief, 125
Joyce, Sergeant, 259
Judicial system of South Africa, the,
392
Judith Basin, the, 180, i8r, 201
Juneau, 292
Justifiable homicide, 193
Kaffir corn, 391
Kaffir kraals, 391
Kaffir police, 375, 381, 387
Kaffirs, 373, 375, 377, 378, 380, 385,
386, 387
Kamloops, 236
Kanhow, 93
Kanpiew, 93
Kapula, 245, 246, 249
Kaye, Sir John Lister, 267
Kearsley, Captain, 370, 378
Kelly, Bull Dog, 194, 232, 233
Kennedy, Lieutenant N., 12, 22
Kennedy, Surgeon, 146, 150, 177,
179
Kenora, 173
Kerr, Constable, 182, 184, 198, 199
Kerr, Jack, 354
Kerr, Private, 354
Keyter, Mr., 404, 405, 407
Keyter, Mrs., 407
Kicking Horse Pass, 188-191, 247,
254
King Edward's address to Strath-
cona's Horse, 359
King, Mr., astronomer, 290
King's colours presented to Strath-
cona's Horse, 358, 359
Kingston, 47-49, 51-53
Kipp, Fort, 135
Kipp, Joe, 55, 56
Kitchener, Lord, 352, 356, 368-370,
373
Kitchener, Lord, and Strathcona's
Horse, 356, 357, 373, 391
Klerksdorp, 354
Klip River, 407
KUpriversberg, 401, 406
Klondyke, the, 287-337
Knebworth House, 361
Komati River, 343, 344 and note
Kootenay, 245-256, 347
Kootenay Indians, 245-254
Kootenay River, 248, 273, 283, 284
Kosi Bay, 343, 344, 364
Kosi River, 343
Kroon, Mr., 404
Kruger, Captain, 404, 405
Kruger, President, 350, 370, 395
Kruger's house, 370
Krugersdorp-Klerksdorp line, the,
370
La Barge, Lake, 290, 295, 301, 309
Labelle, Constable, 75
Labrador dogs, 326
Lac des Isles, 230
Lacombe, Father, 59, 214
Lacoste, Sir Alexander, 341
" Ladies' Parades," 40
Lady- journalist, a distressed, 327
Ladysmith, 404, 405
Laggan, 180, 187, 190, 191
420
INDEX
La Grandeur's ranch, 280
Laird, the Hon. David, 11 7-122
Lake Superior, 267
Lamb, Mrs., 282
Land boom, the, 163, 164
Lansdowne, the Marquess of, 362
La Roche Percee, 67, 75
Lash, Mr., 203
Las Palmas, 367 *■
Lassoes and stock saddles of Strath-
cona's Horse, the, 347, 348
Laundress on the Klondyke, a, 301
Laurie, Major-General, M.P., 361
Laurier, Sir Wilfred, 355, 363
Lawrence, General, 127
Leaper, Hugh, 284
Lebomba, 344
Lebomba Mountains, 343
Leckie, Lieutenant, D.S.O., 359, 363
Lee's Creek, 268, 273, 282
Left Hand, an Indian, 281, 282, 284,
285
Legare, Mr., 160, 161
Le Goflf, Father, 228
Leopard and Chesapeake incident,
the, 2
Lepine, Ambrose, 10, 28
Lessard, Brevet-Colonel, 363
Lethbridge, no, 244, 247, 265, 269
Letters from Lord Strathcona to
Colonel Steele, 341, 342
Leveillee, interpreter, 136, 137
L'Hereux, John, 182-184
LiberaUty of Lord Strathcona, 362,
363
Limpopo, 377-379, 384
Lindeman, Lake, 301, 310, 311
Lindsay, Lt.-Gen. Sir James, 21
Liquor in sham Bibles, 177
Lions in South Africa, 383, 384, 393
Little Child, Chief, 144
Little Pine, an Indian, 278
" Liver-eating J.," in
Livingstone, Captain, 343
Loasby, Constable, 218, 219
Locusts, a plague of, 65
Locusts in South Africa, 394
London Gazette, The, 363
" Long Hair," General Custer, 107
Long hours of the N.W.M.P., the,
195
" Long Knives," 124, 125, 159
Long Mane, an Indian, 281
Loon Lake, 227, 229, 230
Looting, 349, 350
Lome, the Marquess of, 161-163
Lost chance, a, 227
Louren9o Marques, 350
Lugard, Lady, 315
Lydenburg, 349, 350, 384, 404
Lydenburg, the provost-marshal of,
and Strathcona's Horse, 349, 350
Lying reports about Strathcona's
Horse, 357
Lynching unknown in Canada, 179
Macaulay's ranch, 300
Macaulay's tramway, 311
Macdonald, Lt.-Col., 155, 157, 161
Macdonald, Allen Bean, 272
Macdonald, Mrs. A. B., 272
Macdonald, Anne, the mother of
Colonel Steele, i, 3
Macdonald, Sir John A., G.C.B.,
59, 173, 256, 267, 268
Macdonald, Constable J., 273, 274
Macdonald, Neil Mac Ian, i
Macdonell, Sergeant, 225
Macdonnell, Superintendent, A. R.,
160, 161, 256, 272
Macdonnell, Corporal, 355
Macdonnell, Mrs. C, 273, 274
Mac Dougall, David, 57, no
Mac Dougall, the Rev. John, 59,
no, 214, 231, 362
Macfarland, Joseph, 135
Machadodorp, 349, 351
Mac Intyre, Mr., 16, 21
Mackay, Canon George, 214, 224-
226, 231
Mackay, the Hon. James, 62, 102, 105
Mackay, Archdeacon John, 239
Mackay, Thomas, 203-205, 210, 214
Mackays of Fort Walsh, the, 136
Mackenzie, Lt.-Col. Alexander, 11
Mackie, Captain, D.S.O., 359, 361
Mac Kinnon, Major General, 361
Macleod, 106-110, 119, 130, 134-136,
146, 151, 179, 2n, 214, 242, 252,
254-257. 260, 262-264, 268-275,
280, 285, 291, 339.
Macleod, Lt.-Col. James Farquhar-
son, C.M.G., 22, 23, 26, 63, 75,
78-81, 99, loi, 115, 117, 118, 120-
123, 125, 127, 128, 130, 136, 151,
156, 175. 179, 185, 234, 235, 275,
276.
Macleod, Captain Martin, 275
Macleod, Sergeant, 285
Macleod, Donald, 84
Mac Neil, Colonel Donald, i
Mac Neil, Captain Godfrey, i
Macneil, Mr., the attempted murder
of, 278, 282
Magaliesberg mountains, 369, 370
Magistrates' work, 167, 171, 195
INDEX
421
Magisterial squabbles, 173, 234, 235
Magisterial system in South Africa,
374
Mails in the Yukon Territory, the,
324-326
Maiyuke, an Indian horseman, 253
Man dan Indians, 66, 155
Mange, an epidemic of, 153, 154
" Manistokos," 153
Manitoba, 31, 32, 41-47, 164, 173,
196, 340
Mann, Mr. and Mrs., 217
Many Tail Feathers Around His
Neck, an Indian, 283, 284, 286
Maple Creek, 165, 171, 172, 412
March, a record, 63-83
Margaret of Scotland, 267
Martin, Abbe, 124
Martin, Sergeant, 216
Marvellous stories of a sheriff, 192,
235
Masonic banquet, the first in the
North West, 150
Massacre, the Frog Lake, 212, 238
Massacre of Indians, a, 55
Mathias, Chief, 246
Matoppo's kraal, 390, 391
McArthur, Big Neil, 22, 26
McClintock River, 309
McDougall, the Rev. George, 54, 59,
71, no
McDougall, the Hon. Wilham, 6-8
McDowdall, Mr., 208, 209
McGrath, C. A., 244
McGuire, Judge, 290, 309
McKellar, Donald, 18, 19
McKellars of Thunder Bay, the, 19
McLean, Mrs., 219, 220, 229
McLean, Miss Amelia, 220
McLean, W. J., 157, 161, 218, 219,
227, 229, 230
McLelland, Corporal, 220, 221
McMillan, Captain D. H., 11, 12, 22,
26, 37
McNaughton, see Kelly, Bull Dog
McRae, Sergeant, 232
McTavish, Governor, 7-9
McTavish, John, 236
McVittie, Messrs., 251
Medals, the rebellion, 242
Medals, South African war, 358, 359
Medicine Bear, Chief, 123, 125
Medicine Hat, 171 and note, 172, 173,
211, 339, 412
Medicine Pipe Stem, an Indian, 278,
282, 285
" Mela Hoska," 124, 159
Merit unrewarded, 231
Metis, 6, 7, 30, 44, 87, 146, 205
Mewburn, Dr., 244
Middleton, General, 207-209, 224,
226-228, 230
Midleton, Lord, see Brodrick, St.
John
Miles, General, 124, 126
Miles Canyon, 310, 311, 314
Mills, Constable, 134, 135
Milner, Lord, 342, 364, 368, 382, 392
Minnesota, 196
Minnieonzon, Chief, 124
Minto, Lady, 339
Missoula, 193
Mis-Tah-Wah-Sis, Chief, 103-105
Mitchell, J. B., 52
Mitchell of Duck Lake, 204, 205
Moberly, Walter, 169
Modderfontein, 367, 369
Moffat, George, i66
Moir, Sergeant, 360
Monckton, 341
Montana, 162, 193, 201, 262, 263
Montreal, 267, 337, 340, 363, 411
Moose Jaw, 154, 165, 172, 412
Moose Mountain, 155
" Mormon Mike," in
Mormon settlement at Cardston, 268-
270, 282
Morris, Lt. -Governor, the Hon.
Alexander, 102-106
Mortimer, Sergeant-Major John, 48
Mosby, Colonel, 81
Mount Royal Rifles, the, 212, 215
Mountain Stony scouts, the, 213
Mounted Infantry book, the, 24 1,
257
Moyea Pass, 246, 248
Mulgrave, the Earl of, 154
Mulvey, Ensign Stewart, 12, 22, 45
Murder of Mr. Baird, the, 193, 194,
232, 233
Murder of Constable Cowan, the, 219
and note, 229, 230
Murder of Constable Greybum, the,
446, 147, 150-152
Murder of Medicine Pipe Stem, 278,
282, 285
Murder of Thomas Scott, 10, 11, 34,
35
Murder of a store-keeper, 177-179
Murder of Sergeant Wilde, 283-285
Murray of the Winnipeg Police, 232
Naauwpoort, 371
Nares Lake, 301
Nash, Harry, 278
Natal, war in, 403
422
INDEX
" Neck -tie social," 260
Nelson, Lxjrd, i
Nelspruit, 350
Nez Percee Indians, 125-127
Nicholson, Colonel, 367, 388, 397,
398
Nicknames, in, 115
Norris, Mr., 253
North Axe, Chief, 185
North West Mounted Police, the,
52, 53» 56, 59-339, 365, 379
North West Territories Ordinance,
322
Northern Pacific Railway, the, i8i
O'DONOGHUE, 28
Officers of the S.A.C. justices of the
peace, 377, 381, 392
Ogilvie, Captain, 321
Ogilvie, WiUiam", F.R.G.S., 290,
318, 319, 322, 323, 329, 332, 335
Ojibbeway Indians, see Chippeway
Indians
Old Man's River, 76, 77, 81, 134, 272,
280
Old Sun, Chief, 58, 176, 182
Old Town, the, 248
Onderdonk, Mr., 236
One Spot, an Indian, 151
One Tree Hill, 346
Onion Lake, 216, 217, 220
Ontario Rifles, the, 12 and note,
20, 27, 29, 33-47
Orange River Colony, 368 note, 369,
397
O'Reilly, Mr., 249
Organization of the S.A.C, the, 368
and note
Orton, Dr., 191
Osborne, Fort, 174
O-Soup, Chief, 161
Oswald, Captain, 215, 220, 224
Otis, Colonel, 263
Ottawa, 164, 165, 202, 267, 291, 308,
313, 335, 338, 339, 363, 411
Otter, Brevet-Col., 363
Ouimet, Lt.-Col. J. A., M.P., 212
Outrages of the Chinese in South
Africa, 398-408
Paget, Brigadier-General, 360
Palhser, Captain, 58, 188
Parker, Sergeant, 347
Pasley, Sir Thomas, i
Pasqua, Chief, 155
Patricia of Connaught, the Princess,
398
Patterson, Sergeant, 151
Patton, Scout, 222
Patullo, Mr., 318
Pawnee Indians, 134
Peace arranged in Pretoria, 372
Peace proclaimed in Pretoria, 373
Peace River, 247
Peigan Indians, 56, 79, 113, 115, 117,
120, 134, 148, 185, 2X1, 258, 263,
271, 277, 278, 280, 283
Peigan Sand Hills, 183
Pemmican, 69, 70, 89, 90, 95, 96
Pense, 166
Perry, Major, 212, 213, 231, 232, 286,
291, 293, 295, 308, 313, 334
Perth, 410
Peterson, Principal, 341
Pheasant Plain, 154
Philemon, a Kaffir boy, 386
Phillips, Michael, 252, 254
Photographs of Strathcona's Horse,
358
Piapot, Chief, 56
Piet Potgieter's Rust, 376
Pietersburg, 378-380
Piety of the Indians, the, 91
" Pile of Bones," 166, 167
Pincher Creek, 259, 284, 285
Pine Coulee, 77, 78
Pine Creek, 317, 318
Pinto Horse Butte, 124, 126, 146
Pitt, Fort, 105, 106, 201, 212-223,
229-232
Plain-hunters, 92-95
Pneumonia, 306
PoHce ball, a, 84-86
Police, military, 44, 45
Polygamy, women supporters of, 269
Pomeroy, Captain, 377
Poplars mistaken for Indians, 216
Porcupine Hills, 259, 272, 280, 283
Portage la Prairie, 154, 164
Portuguese possessions in South
Africa, 381, 393
Postal arrangements in the North
West, 141
Potchefstroom, 354
Potts, Jerry, 56, 76-80, 116, 121,
136-138, 147, 152, 271, 276, 277
Poundmaker, Chief, 220
Powell, Dr., 246, 249, 250
Power, T. C, 114
Prairie fires, 69, 82, 258-260
Prairie schooners, 108, 275
Prairie Chicken Old Man, a young
brave, 262, 263
Prairie, Joseph, 250
Presentation to Colonel French, 100
Press libels on Colonel Irvine, 210
INDEX
423
Pretoria, 351, 352, 369-372, 380,
385, 391, 392, 398, 409
Pretoria blue police, the, 371
Pretoria — Pietersburg railway, 370
Pretorius, Major, 404
Pretty Bear, Chief, 124
" Pretty Young Buck," 115
Prevost, Captain, 215
Primrose, Inspector, 319, 334
Prince Albert, 201-210, 240
Prince Albert Volunteers, the, 204
206, 210
Prince Arthur's Landing, 14, 15, 21
Pringle, Corporal, 295
Prisoner's escape, a, 182
Pritchard, Captain, 19
Pritchard, Interpreter, 219
Prohibition, 186, 187
Promotion from the ranks in the
S.A.C, 372
Prospectors attacked by Indians,
309, 310
Pythons in South Africa, 379, 384
Qu'appelle, 154-159, 161-163, 165,
166, 206, 412
Quay-we-den, a medicine-man, 114
Queen Charlotte Sound, 291
Queen's birthday, the, at Lake
Bennett, 310
Queens, Matoppo's eleven, 390, 391
Quicksand, a jump into, 68
Quinn, Henry, 217
Quinn, Special Constable, 218, 219
Quinn, Sub- Agent, 216, 217
Quinney, the Rev. Mr., 217, 223
Quinney, Mrs., 217, 223
Rae, Mr., 216
Rant, Captain, 301-303, 310, 318
Rapid City, 156
Rat Portage, 173 and note, 174
Rebellion, the North-West, 196, 197,
200-231, 240
" Rechaud," 70
Recreations at Macleod, 270-272
Recruiting, 164, 165, 169, 171
Red Cow, Chief, 120, 121, 151, 185,
250, 265, 266
Red Deer River, 161, 162, 212, 214,
223
Red River Jig, the, 42, 70, 85
Red River rebellion, the, 5-33, 54,
276. 345
Red River Settlement, the, 27, 33,
41-46, 202
" Red "Waggon Jim," ni
Reed, Hayter, 203, 230
Reed, Private, his escape from the
Boers, 353
Regina, 165-169, 171, 203, 239, 247,
298, 412
Regina Leader, The, 169
Reinforcement sent to Strathcona's
Horse, 346
Reno, Major, 107
Report of Colonel Herchmer on the
force's work in the Kootenay dis-
trict, 255, 256
Revelstoke, 194, 235
Reynolds, Mr., 238
Rhodesia, 377-379
Rhodesian Red-water fever, 393
Richardson, Corporal, 325
Richardson, Judge, 156
Riel, Louis, 5-11, 24, 28, 180, 181,
185, 201, 202, 206, 207, 210, 238
Rimmington, Major General, 371
Rinderpest, 376, 377
Roberts, Lord, 342, 352, 353, 358,
361, 362, 367, 404
Roby, Sergeant, 217
Rocky Mountain Rangers, the, 211
Rodgers, engineer, 169
Rogers Pass, 195
" Rolling," 194
Rose, Sir Hugh, 45
Ross, James, 172, i8o, igi, 194-196,
198, 200, 201, 235, 237
Ross, Colonel P. Robertson, 48, 59
Rosser, General, 169
Rouleau, Judge, 238
Royal Artillery and Strathcona's
Horse, 360
Royal Canadian Artillery, 321
Royal Canadian Dragoons, 339
Royal Commission on the Chinese
outrages, 402, 403
Royal Commission on the S.A.C, 397
Royal Welsh Fusiliers, the, 353
Royalty on gold, collecting the, 332,
333
" Rubaboo," 70
Rucker, Major, 293
Rudd, Corporal, 309
Runnels, Dr., 298
Rustenburg, 369, 370
Saddle Lake, 212, 231
St. Albert Mission, 57
St. Andrew's, 410
St. Eugene, 250, 251
St. Laurent, 201
St. Lawrence, the, 411
St. Mary's, 275
St. Mary's hospital, Dawson, 321
424
INDEX
St. Maur, Ensign, see Somerset, the
Duke of
Salmon, Big, 290, 292
Salmon, Little, 290
Salois, Abraham, 87
Salt Plain, the, 203
Sampson, Captain, 403
Sam's Landing, 248
Sanders, Inspector, 280, 286
Sangmeister, Major, 346
Santee Indians, 129
Sarcee Indians, 117, 120, 132, 148,
152, 153
Saskatchewan, 84, 88, 89, 163, 166,
176, 201-203, 207, 214, 215, 219,
220, 238
Saskatchewan, John, 217
Saulteaux Indians, 132, 134, 144, 161
Scales, The, 294, 295, 307
Scalping, 57, 64, 113, 155
Scarth, Captain, 384
Schoongezicht, 404
Schultz, Dr., 31
Scollen, Father, 212, 214
Scotch Charley, 84
Scots Guards, the, 353
Scott, Captain, 47
Scott, Thomas, 9-1 1, 34, 35
Seattle, 289, 333
Selati railway, the, 384
Selborne, Lord, 398, 402, 408, 409
Selborne, Lady, 408
Selby-Smyth, Major-General Sir E.,
92, 98
" Self-rising William," iii
Selkirk, 319, 320
Selkirk, the Earl of, 6
Selkirks, the, 194, 195
Settlers in the West, 163, 164
Seven Persons Coulee, 153
Severe snow-storm, a, 306, 307
Seymour, Lord William, 362
Shaddock, Colonel, 62
" Shagalasha," 124
Sharpies, Charles, 271, 272
Shaw, Fort, 108, 162
Sheep Camp, 294, 296, 307
Shepstone, Sir Theophilus, 389
Shepstone's, Mr., Zulu factotum,
389, 390
Sheran, Dick, no
Sheridan, General Phil, 52
Sheriff, an amusing, 192, 235
Shoal Lake, 160
Shuswap Indians, 246
Sifton, the Hon. Clifford, 290
Signs of Indian tribes, the, 134
Simmer and Jack mine, the, 407, 408
Simpson, Mr., 217, 227, 229
Sinclair, Thomas, 62
Sioux Indians, 58, 64, 65, 75, 107,
123-130, 132, 136, 138, 144, 146,
148, 153, 159-161, 207
Sitting Bull, Chief, 107, 108, 124-
130. 159. 160, 224
Six Mile Creek, 247, 248
" Sixty Mile Bush," 238, 239
Skagway, 289-300, 308, 309, 313-
316, 325, 326, 336
Skirving, Constable, 293, 294, 307
Skunks as food, 70
Sky-Blue-Hom-Sitting-Down-Tum-
ing-Round-On-A-Chair, a Cree
Indian, 73
Slee, Edwin, 4
" Sleeping Thunder," 138
Sleigh, Corporal, 216
" Slide Out," 77
Smallpox in the West, 34-36, 159,
160
Smart, Sergeant, 228
Smith, Donald Alexander, see Strath-
cona, Lord
Smith, Captain James Irvine, 376
Smith, Lt.-Col. W. Osborne, C.M.G.,
60, 213
Snakes, garter, 96
Snakes in South Africa, 379, 384, 385
Snider, Lieutenant, 355
" Soapy Smith," 296-299, 313, 316,
328, 336, 337
Solomon, Sir Richard, 404, 406
Somerset, the Duke of, 26
South African Constabulary, the,
328, 344 note, 354, 355, 363-409
South African War, the, 334, 337-
360, 404, 405
South African War medal for Strath-
cona's Horse, 358, 359
South Wales Borderers, the, 366
Southern Alberta, 268, 271
Spelonkin, 379
Spicer's Hill, 273
Spion Kop, 370
" Spitsee Cavalry," the, 55
Spitzkop, 356
Sports at Four Mile Creek, 252, 253
Spotted Eagle, an Indian, 107
" Stamix-oto-kan," 79, 120
Stampede, a, 63, 64
Stand Off, 77, 265, 281, 285
Standerton, 345, 351
Standing Buffalo, Chief, 161
Stanley, Lord, 265, 266
Stanley, Lady, 265, 266
Star Child, an Indian, 151
INDEX
425
State of Skagway, the bad, 295-297,
315, 316, 336'
Stavely, Harry, 14
Steel, Dr. Elmes, grandfather of
Colonel Steele, i
Steel, Henry C, 366
Steel, Colonel Samuel, i
Steel, Dr. Samuel, 364
Steel, Dr. William, i, 366
Steel, Colonel William, 366
Steele, Captain Elmes, R.N., father
of Colonel Steele, 1-4, 366
Steele, Dr. Elmes, half-brother of
Colonel Steele, 3
Steele, Godfrey, 215
Steele, James, 215
Steele, John, 3, 4
Steele, Richard, 4, 47, 86, 215
Steele, Colonel Samuel Benfield,
C.B., M.V.O.
the birth of, i
the childhood of, 3-5
a clerk, 5
raised the Clarksburg Com-
pany, 5
joined the Red River expedi-
tion, 12
promoted to Corporal, 37
left the Red River Settlement,
46
joined the School of gunnery
at Kingston, 47
an artillery instructor, 49
Sergeant-MajorintheN.W.M.P.
52
highly praised by Inspector
Jarvis, 75
Chief Constable at Swan River,
89
had typho-malarial fever, 145,
146
suffered from snow blindness,
158, 159
appointed Adjutant, 165
commanded the N.W.M.P. on
the Une of construction of the
C.P.R., 165
acted as a magistrate, 167
took command at Calgary, 171
appointed a commissioner of
police, 180
appointed a commissioner of
the peace, 180
had a narrow escape, 190
down with fever, 197, 198
received the command of Gen-
eral Strange's mounted troops,
gazetted Major, 212
praised by Cxenerals Middleton
and Strange, 230, 231
recommended for the C.M.G.,
231
presented with a diamond ring
by the inhabitants of Calgary, 232
settled a dispute between white
men and Indians, 245-254
praised by Colonel Herchmer,
255. 256
the marriage of, 266, 267
the wedding tour of, 267, 268
had an interview wnth Sir John
Macdonald, 268
sent to the Yukon district, 291
ill with bronchitis, 295, 379
a member of the council of the
Yukon territory, 317
in command of the N.W.M.P.
in the Yukon Territory and British
Columbia, 317
- promoted to Lieutenant-Colonel
317
given the thanks of the Gov-
ernor General in Council, 317
- left the Yukon Territory, 334-
337
- volunteered for service in South
Africa, 338
- raised Strathcona's Horse, 339,
340
- sailed for South Africa, 341
ill with ptomaine poisoning, 354
- left South Africa with Strath-
cona's Horse, 356, 357
- received the Victorian order,
359
- returned to Canada, 362
made Companion of the Bath,
363
363
gazetted Brevet-Colonel,
left Canada again, 364
in London again, 364
joined by his wife and children
in South Africa, 385
his hard work and good health,
389-391
- — offered the command of the
S.A.C. in the Orange River Colony,
397
- appointed inspecting staff offi-
cer, 397
- praised b\" Colonel Nicholson,
397
- took charge of the special work
in connection with the Chinese
outrages, 398
426
INDEX
resigned from the S.A.C., 406
in England, 409-411
returned to Canada, 411
given the command of Military
District, No. 13, 411
Steele, Mrs. S. B., 267, 272, 274, 291,
337, 363, 385, 398, 408-410
Steele's Scouts, 212, 215
Steell, Major George, 137, 138
Stele, Stiel, Steell, Steel, or Steele,
366
" Stems," 102, 103, 105
Steuart, Major, 370, 371
Stewart, Corporal, 167, 168
Stewart, D., 293, 299
Stewart, Captain Jack, 211
Stewart River post, 325
Stewart's, Private, courage, 354
Stickeen, 292
Stock saddles, 157, 347, 348
Stokes, Mr.,. of the Simmer and Jack
mine, 407
Stone Fort, 60-63, 90
Stony Indians, 36, 110,113, 114, 117
Storm, a tremendous, 293-295
Story of a Soldier's Life, Viscount
Wolseley's, 33
Strange, Major General, 176, 182, 211-
215, 220, 222-224, 227, 228, 230,
231. 359, 410
Strange, Major H. Bland, 410
Strange, Mrs. T. Bland, 410
Strange, Miss, 359
Strangling Wolf, an Indian, 151
Strathcona, Lord, 8, 10, ir, 27, 31,
47, 187, 235, 239-346, 351, 356-366,
410, 411
Strathcona, Lady, 358, 360, 364, 411
Strathcona's Horse, 339-364
Strickland, Inspector, 288, 290, 293,
298, 299, 303, 309, 317, 318
Strike on the C.P.R. works, 196-201
Successful settlers, 164
Sugden, Dr., 306
Suicide of a squaw, the, 227
Sun Dances, 132-134, 181, 182, 262,
264
Sunday observance in the Red River
Settlement, 43
Swan River, 76, 82, 89, 92, 96-98,
loi, 106, 107, 154
Swaziland, 404
Sweet Bird, Chief, 124
Sweet Grass, Chief, 106
Swift Current, 165, 167, 170, 174,
238, 246, 247, 412
Taber, Sam, 74, 85
Table Bay, 342
Tache, Bishop, 30
Tagish, 290, 299, 300, 303, 3 Ml
317-319, 325, 326
Tartar, an armed escort on the, 313
Taylor, Sir Frederick, 362
Tennant, Corporal, 301
Terry, General, 107, 125, 127, 129,
130
Teslin Lake, 292, 309
Tetu, Constable, 63
The Bee, an Indian, 263
The One who runs the Roe, Chief,
129
" The Ridge Under the Water," 114,
117, 276
The Scout, an Indian, 263
" The 17th of Ireland," 116
" The Slough," 108
" The Turkey Trail," 243
Theiller, Professor, 376
Thibaudeau's ranch, 283, 284
Thompson, Dr., 321, 322, 331
Thompson, Sir John, 265
Three Bulls, an Indian, 77, 78
Thumb-marks, 372
Tick fever, 376-378
Timber, the waste of, 69
Tims, Archdeacon, 175
Tingley, R. S., 262, 263
Tobacco Plains, 248, 254
Too tall, 171
Toochi Creek, 318
Tote road, 188, 190
Touchwood Hills, 154
Tour of his S.A.C, division by Col.
Steele, 388-391
Tour of the Marquess of Lome in the
far West, 161-163
Towers, T. A. P., 19
Training of the N.W.M.P., the, 241,
242
Transvaal, the, 342-356, 368-406
Treadwell mine, the, 292
Trew, Captain, 371, 401
Tronduick River, see Klondyke
Trouble in barracks, 38, 39
Trouble with the Blackfeet Indians,
176, 180-185
Tugela, 405
Tuke, Farrier-Major, 116, 117
TurnbuU of Clarksburg, 5
Tweedy, Corporal, 328
Typhoid, 322, 329, 331
Typho-malarial fever, 145, 146
United States, the, and the Sioux
Indians, 123-130
INDEX
427
Unpopular liquor laws, 243
Unsatisfactory N.C.O., an, 173, 174
Upham, Hirana, 113
Van Dau, Mr., 404
van der Merwe, Miss, 407
van Home, Sir William C, 172, 235
Vancouver, 236, 291, 293, 295, 308
Vandreuil, 267, 268
" Verdommed Rooineks," 349
Vernon, the Hon. Mr., 249
Veterans of the Civil War, 142, 143
Victoria, 212, 235, 251, 313
Victorian Order of Nurses, the, 322
Vielle, interpreter, 113
Viljoen's Drift, 356
Villiers, Captain, 44
Visit of Mr. Joseph Chamberlain to
South Africa, 385
Visit of the Duke and Duchess of
Connaught to South Africa, 397
Vogelsluitspruit, 349
Voters' lists in South Africa, 395
Vowell, A. W., 246
Wade, Fred, 290
Waggon Box Julia, an Indian, iii
Wainwright, Major, 27, 37
Waitress's self-sacrifice, a, 306
Walker, Colonel James, 411
Walker, Lieutenant, 343
Walker, Inspector, 104
Walsh, Fort, 108, 109, 124-127, 131,
134. 136, 139, 143-149, 154, 172
Walsh, Major, 52, 53, 60, 62, 123,
124, 128, 130, 166, 172, 290, 291,
295, 300, 309, 318
Walters, Constable, 182, 184, 199,
200
Wandering Spirit, Chief, 136, 229
War Claims Commission, the, 392
War Office, the, and the S.A.C., 364,
409
War whoop of Canon Mackay, the,
224
Ward, Captain, 19
Wascana, 167, 168
Waterton or Kootenay River, 273
Waterval, 346, 347
Wedding tour, Colonel Steele's, 267,
268
Weddings in the Red River Settle-
ment, 42, 43
" Welcome, Canadians ! " 345
Welstead, Lieutenant, 380
White, Lt.-Col., 335
White, Comptroller, 212, 232, 267
White, Fred, 174
White flag incidents, 348
White Horse Rapids, 310-312, 314,
315, 335
White Pass, the, 289, 292, 293, 296,
298, 299, 300, 303
White women, the first at Cypress
Hills, 132
White-Fraser, 347
Whisky-traders, 53-58, 77, 78, 80-
82, 86, 106, 109, III, 120, 131, 165,
180, 186, 187, 195
Whitchurch, 276
Whitfcrd, Scout, 220, 221
" Whoop Up," 54, 77
" Wild and Woolly West," the, 53-
58
Wild Bill, 304, 305
Wild Horse Creek, 245-249
Wilde, Sergeant, 283-285
Willcocks, Sir James, 361
William, Fort, 21 and note, 236
Willow Creek, 242
Wills, Dr., 288, 289
Wills. Mr., manager of the Bank of
Commerce, 306, 323
Wilson, Constable, 151
Wilson, Sergeant, 329
Wilson, James, 278, 280, 281
Wilverdiend, 352
Winder, Inspector, 1 1 1
Windy Arm, 310
Winnipeg, 28-46, 62, 154, 162-164,
169, 171, 173, 174, 232, 339, 345,
411, 412
Winnipeg Light Infantry, the, 213
Winnipeg River, 25
Winter of 1886-7, 242-244
" Winterers," 44
Witpoort, 346
" Wolfing," 121
Wolhuter and the lions, 383, 384
Wolhuter's Kop, 370
Wolseley, Lord, 11, 12 note, 13-15,
20, 22-25, 27, 31, 32, 33, 35
Wood, Sir Evelyn, 358
Wood, Major, 245, 251, 256, 265,
290, 291, 293, 296, 297, 309, 313,
317-319, 325, 326
Wood Mountain, 146, 160
" Wood pile," the police, 328
Woodhouse, Constable, 318
Woodside, Major, 305, 306, 335
Woolwich Arsenal, 410
Work of the N.W.M.P., 130, 312, 313,
324, 331
Wrangel, 292
Wright, Captain, 220, 222
Wylde, Robert, 240
428
Yale, 237
Yankton Sioux Indians, 123-125
" Yeast Powder Bill," iii
York, Ontario, 276
Young, Captain, 15-19
Young, the Rev. Mr., 10, 30
Young Pine, an Indian, 263
Vukon Field Force, the, 319, 321-
323. 329, 334
Yukon River, 288, 289, 309, 319
INDEX
Yukon Territory, 288-337
Zandspruit, 344
Zarps, the, 404
Zeederburg, Mr., 384
Zoutpansberg, 377-380, 389, 404
Zulu factotum, a, 389, 390
Zululand, 343, 344
Zulus, 375, 387, 391
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