The Fox Hound
By Roger D, Williams
V '
JOHNA.SEAVERNS
I Uri3 umvtHSIIT LIBHAHItb
3 9090 013 412 032
Webster Family Library of Veterinary Medicine
Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at
Tufts University
200 Westboro Road
North Grafton, MA 01 536
THE FOXHOUND
CHAMPION-SCRAPE, FIELD-TRIAL-WINNER, BRED
AND OWNED BY THE AUTHOR
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FULL ENGLISH FOXHOUND GALLIARD, IMPORTED
BY THE AUTHOR
THE
FOXHOUND
BY
ROGER D. WILLIAMS
Author of "Horse and Hound," *'The Blood-
hound," Etc.
HANDBOOKS
Number 38
NEW YORK
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY
MCMXIV
TO
FG
VJ5
Copyright, 1914, bt
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY
All rights reserved
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
Foreword ....... 5
I. The Foxhound 13
II. Breeding and Training Hounds 27
III. Training and Hunting . . 39
IV. Feeding 63
V. Kennels 73
VI. Diseases and Remedies ... 87
VII. The Bench Show . . . .113
VIII. Dont's 119
Glossary of Technical Terms 127
Foxhound Field Trial . ,. .130
ILLUSTRATIONS
PAGE
CHampion Scrape — English Fox-
hound, Galliard .... Frontispiece
Typical American Foxhound . . . 16
Plan of Kennels and Yard .... 75
FOREWORD
FOXHUNTING is not only a recreation
and amusement, but the science of an art
in which but few obtain proficiency. It is
one of the few sports that is not more or less
tainted with professionalism. My experiences
in the field and saddle during a quarter of a
century of breeding and hunting hounds are
given herein, and I trust may prove of benefit
to the rapidly increasing devotees of a sport
that eminently encourages companionable qual-
ities in man, is conducive to good health, and
is frequently the means of cementing lifelong
friendships.
This book is written more for the benefit of
the country gentlemen of moderate means who
11 rides to hunt " than for the fashionable an-
glomaniac with money who " hunts to ride "
and thinks foxhunting a most fascinating and
enviable pursuit in the abstract.
THE FOXHOUND
CHAPTER I
THE FOXHOUND
THE character, sensibilities, and intellect-
ual faculties of the Foxhound are but
little known; they are, unfoitunately,
considered rather stupid and uninteresting than
otherwise by the majority of the people in
this country, especially those unacquainted with
the mysteries of hound lore. In England for
hundreds of years they have been held in the
highest esteem for their splendid intelligence,
their inexhaustible courage, and unequaled en-
durance, qualities that are indispensable in add-
ing to the pleasure of her sportsmen, and there
is no gainsaying the fact that the popularity of
the hound has rapidly increased in this country
during the past quarter of a century.
The origin of the breed is clouded somewhat
in mystery. Being lost in remote antiquity, it
has been the subject of debate and deep re-
search among sportsmen from time immemorial.
13
14 THE FOXHOUND
However, it is generally conceded to be the
result of judicious crossing between the Blood-
hound and the ancient Greyhound. This un-
doubtedly is true, as a first cross of the same
breeds to-day will produce a hound with many
of the characteristics and qualities of the Fox-
hound. As to the antiquity of the Foxhound,
if the writings of Gervase Markham in 1631
are to relied upon, hounds were used in the
chase of the fox as early as 16 13.
Our old time native Foxhounds were un-
doubtedly degenerated Bloodhounds, and to the
infusion of English, Irish, and French blood
are we indebted for the vast improvement, es-
pecially in conformation, size, and some of the
better qualities. It is generally understood that
they were imported from England, but exactly
when and by whom we have no authentic re-
cord. While believing that they are largely
descended from the English hound, there is
no doubt in my mind that the French hound
plays equally as important a part in their
origin. Lafayette sent over a large pack of
French hounds, this being the first pack of
hounds we have any record of as having been
imported into the United States as a pack,
though individual hounds had been previously
brought over from England.
THE FOXHOUND 15
If we can rely upon shape, conformation,
hound characteristics, and general appearance,
then we are indebted more to the French than
the English hound for our original stock. I
have seen many packs in different parts of
France that certainly resemble our old time
native black and tan, long eared, long headed,
high peaked, deep mouthed hounds, much more
than the English hound, though the present
American hound judged by the National Fox-
hunters Association more closely resembles the
English.
As far back as the Revolutionary War the
chief sport and pastime of the South was hunt-
ing, and while no regular organized hunts were
established, every Southern gentleman of means
had his own hounds and was as proud and
jealous of their reputation as of those of his
horses and his family. While at this period no
tabulated pedigrees were kept, nor hounds reg-
istered, no stud book having been established,
each owner was as careful in the breeding of
his hounds to good performers only as he was
of his racers. In the North at this period a
few straggling individual hounds were owned,
not to chase the fox, but to drive him and deer
within range of a ten-bore gun waiting to per-
forate their pelts with buck shot.
16
THE FOXHOUND
The American Foxhound, while different in
some respects from the English, should be
judged upon the same value of points. The
American hound should be the smaller and
lighter in muscle and bone, dogs should not
be under 21 nor over 24 inches nor weigh
Typical American Foxhound
1. Nose.
2. Flews or Chaps.
3. Nasal Bone.
4. Stop.
5. Skull.
6. Occiput.
7. Dewlap (where
such exists).
8. Brisket.
9. Top of shoul- 14.
der blades or 15.
" shoulder.'; l6
10. Top of Hip- "
joint. £
11. Shoulder-blade I&
or scapula. x9-
12. Rump -bone. 20.
13. Arm. 21.
Elbow.
Fore-arm.
Knee.
Stifle-joint.
Hocks.
Stern.
Chest.
Pasterns.
THE FOXHOUND 17
more than 60 pounds. Bitches should not be
under 20 nor over 23 inches, nor weigh more
than 53 pounds.
The head (Value 15, see Summary) should
be of medium size with muzzle in harmonious
proportions. The skull should be rounded
crosswise with slight peak-line, profile nearly
straight — with sufficient stop to give symmetry
to head. Ears medium — not long — thin, soft
in coat, low set, and closely pendant. Eyes soft,
medium size, and varying shades of brown.
Nostrils slightly expanded. Head as a whole,
should denote hound " character."
The neck (value 5) must be clean and of
good length, slightly arched, strong where it
springs from the shoulder, and gradually taper-
ing to the head without trace of throatiness.
The shoulders (value 10) should be of suf-
ficient length to give good leverage and power,
well sloped, muscular, but clean run and not too
broad. Chest and back ribs (value 10) : the
chest should be deep for lung space, narrower
in proportion to depth than the English hound,
28 inches in 24-inch hound being good. Well
sprung ribs, back ribs should extend well back,
a three-inch flank allowing springiness. The
back and loin (value 10) should be broad,
short, and strong, slightly arched.
18 THE FOXHOUND
The hindquarters and lower thighs (value
10) must be well muscled and very strong. The
stifles should be low, not too much bent nor yet
too straight, a happy medium. The elbows
(value 5) should be straight, neither in or out.
Legs and feet (value 20) are of great import-
ance. Legs should be straight and placed
squarely under shoulder, having plenty of bone
without clumsiness; strong pasterns well stood
upon. Feet round, cat-like, not too large, toes
well knuckled, close and compact, strong nails,
pad thick, tough, and indurated by use. Color
and coat (value 5) black, white, and tan pre-
ferable, though the solids and various pies are
permissible. Coat should be rough and coarse
without being wiry or shaggy.
Symmetry (value 5) : the form of hound
should be harmonious throughout; he should
show his blood quality and hound character
in every aspect and movement. If he scores
high in other properties, symmetry is bound to
follow. The stern (value 5) must be strong
in bone at root, of medium length carried like
a saber on line with the spine, and must have
good brush; a docked stern should not dis-
qualify, but simply handicap according to ex-
tent of docking.
THE FOXHOUND 19
SUMMARY
Head 15
Neck 5
Shoulders 10
Chest and ribs 10
Back and loins 10
Hindquarters and lower thighs 10
Elbows 5
Legs and feet 20
Color and coat 5
Stern 5
Symmetry 5
100
Faults in Hound Construction
Head too short and thick.
Neck short and throaty.
Shoulder upright and loaded.
Lack of muscle.
Not straight below the knee.
Hind leg too straight.
Long flat foot.
Hock not close enough to ground.
Slack loin, sway back.
Shallow chest. Flat side.
A narrow chest.
Head lacking hound quality.
Crooked and light boned legs.
Improperly set or carried stern.
Loose flat feet.
20 THE FOXHOUND
Faults in Field
Too slow.
Bad caster.
Potterer.
Roader.
Skirter.
Rioter.
Qualities
The extraordinary scenting powers of a
hound are as unlimited as they are unrivaled,
and never cease to be a wonder to the novice.
The instinct to pursue and kill is a second na-
ture in the hound and they seem to derive an
insatiable pleasure from indulging it. Nature
has endowed them with an enduring patience
and courage that enable them, hungry, fatigued,
footsore and exhausted, to continue the chase
although every step is painful to a degree.
Hounds have been known to run a fox or deer
twenty-four hours continuously without food
or rest. Bitches have been known to whelp in
a chase, and an authentic case is on record of a
bitch whelping a pup and taking it in her mouth
and continuing the run.
The question whether bitches are better than
THE FOXHOUND 21
dogs in the field is a mooted one. I am rather
inclined to think they are, though I know of
many experienced hunters who hold to 'the
other theory. In England the lady packs
(bitches) are hunted separately and are con-
sidered both faster and quicker, but I am in-
clined to think that is because they are smaller;
were the dogs the same size and build, I do not
think the difference would be as apparent,
though slightly in favor of bitches. In this
country where less attention is paid to appear-
ance, size, and sortiness of a pack, dogs and
bitches are hunted together, and as dogs are
undoubtedly freer with their tongues, while
bitches have more dash and vim though are
less steady, they undoubtedly make a strong
Combination in working together.
It is a widely discussed question and much
has been written upon the relative merits of
the American and English hounds. In touch-
ing upon this subject I shall attempt to give a
fair and impartial statement as seen from my
viewpoint. I have also advised with others
whom I consider authorities upon the subject,
being hunters of wide experience who, like my-
self, have imported, bred, raised, and hunted
English hounds of the very best strains to be
had. In the matter of breeding true to type
22 THE FOXHOUND
we must yield the palm to the English. In the
art and science of breeding they are not only
the peers but the superiors of all other nations,
and this applies to all domestic animals as well
as the horse and hound. As to hounds, they
have established a high standard of excellence,
as to size, symmetry, conformation, and beauty
of form and style, and breed for these quali-
ties to the detriment of nose, speed, endurance,
and fox sense.
While we must admit that an even, level,
sorty-looking pack, well balanced in size, color,
and markings, is pleasing to the eye, yet none
of these qualities can compare with those of
nose, speed, endurance and fox sense when it
comes to hunting foxes in America. We admit
that the English are far our superiors in breed-
ing, and had they for the past two hundred
years employed their ability and efforts to per-
fect hounds in the latter qualities, they would
undoubtedly have produced a hound that could
come to this country and eclipse any of our
hounds in the field instead of taking position
as second-raters, as they invariably do.
The hunting in England does not call for
the possession of the same qualities as in
America. There the climatic and atmospheric
conditions are generally favorable especially in
THE FOXHOUND 23
the moist grass countries, where trailing con-
ditions are such that scent hangs breast high
and a hound with half a nose could run at top
speed. The coverts are convenient and small,
the huntsman knows within a few hundred
yards of where the fox " uses " and can lay
his hand on the line any time. The foxes are
fat, sleek, and well fed, and in an untrained
condition a straightaway run of eight or ten
miles is uncommon. The run seldom exceeds
one and a half or two hours once in a dozen
chases. If check or loss is made, the hounds
have the assistance of huntsmen, whippers-in,
stoppers, and the hunter in regaining the line.
The problem that confronts the American
hounds is an altogether different matter. Our
coverts and forests are extremely large. The
foxes, remaining wild and timid, seldom pass
twenty-four hours without a run of four to
eight hours, the hounds frequently running
them by themselves without hunters.
BREEDING AND RAISING
CHAPTER II
BREEDING AND RAISING HOUNDS
THE English are without question the
most successful breeders in the world,
and with the exception of the horse they
Have probably paid more attention to the
breeding of the Foxhound than of any other
animal, and have certainly paid more attention
to the breeding of the hound than all other
nations combined. Unfortunately for us, how-
ever, their country and methods of hunting re-
quire an altogether different hound from that
which is called for in this country.
With them a hound is condemned for faults
in construction, size, and even marking before
he has even had a trial in the field, and after a
trial the hounds are again culled or " drafted,"
as they call it, for faults that may interfere with
their usefulness (from their viewpoint) in the
future. Unfortunately for the looks, symme-
try, and conformation of our hounds, this cus-
27
28 THE FOXHOUND
torn does not prevail to any extent in this
country and should be judiciously encouraged.
I am afraid that we have adopted the " hand-
some is as handsome does " policy too freely.
The efficiency of the hounds depends entirely
upon the breeding, and to maintain a pack or
strain up to the required standard of excel-
lence continual selection of superior animals is
necessary. One of the soundest principles of
breeding is that the longer certain desirable
qualities have been handed down from genera-
tion to generation the more certainly you can
depend upon a continuance of the same.
Heredity is undoubtedly the strongest force in
nature. To be sure, it does not control the
individual peculiarities of a sire or dam, but
where these characteristics existed for several
generations we may expect many of them, and
the farther back they extend the larger and
more pronounced will be their percentage.
Stonehenge says inbreeding is not injurious
to the dog, as has been proven by theory and
practice. On the other hand, Darwin says in-
breeding diminishes vigor and fertility. Some
claim that by inbreeding alone one can fix and
perpetuate good qualities in succeeding genera-
tions. My experience is that inbreeding, when
judiciously and not excessively practiced, is
BREEDING AND RAISING 29
essential to type and many necessary qualities
in the hound, but carried to too great an ex-
treme it unquestionably stunts growth and
weakens . both constitution and intelligence.
The most glaring contradiction of this rule is
in the case of game chickens, as those incestu-
ously bred are gamer, stronger, and more am-
bitious than others.
In inbreeding, the mating of sire and dam
with daughter and son is unquestionably prefer-
able to mating brother and sister. Once cross-
ing in, twice crossing out is an old rule and a
most excellent one to observe in hound breed-
ing. The antiquity of the hound with its long
line of breeding makes an absolute outcross
(such, for instance, as the Greyhound) less
dangerous than would be the case in many
modern breeds. The influence of such a cross
on type would soon be entirely obliterated.
No type can be maintained by adhering strictly
to the best selections of the same family, there-
fore rigidly adhere to one type, no matter how
great the temptation may be to do otherwise,
or the ultimate destruction of type will follow.
Due attention must be paid to joint selection
of sire and dam and the possibilities of a good
cross or nick. If sire and dam have vigor,
perfect health, and strength, it is fair to pre-
30 THE FOXHOUND
sume their offspring, with proper care and at-
tention, will inherit these same qualities. There
is absolutely no question about the fact of
hounds inheriting qualities of hunting more
from the dam than from the sire, while the
qualities of shape, size, and conformation come
from the sire.
Many breeders consider pedigree the only
consideration, paying but little attention to in-
dividual excellences or qualities; this is a mis-
take. Symmetry is never the result of chance
or luck, but of careful forethought and good
judgment, backed by a practical knowledge of
breeding. It is a gross mistake to breed good
and bad specimens together simply on account
of their pedigrees. The result is anything but
certain, as the bad qualities are as apt to crop
out in the progeny as the good, if not in the
first then in some succeeding generation. A
hound with bad qualities is more apt to perpet-
uate them in his progeny than he is to throw
back to better qualities possessed by his blue-
blooded ancestors. Therefore in breeding for
any certain desirable quality, for instance, color
or tongue, do not fail to investigate fully all
other qualities, good, bad, and indifferent, pos-
sessed by the sire, as with the desired qualities
you may get some very undesirable ones.
BREEDING AND RAISING 31
Hound bitches generally come in season
when eight or nine months old, especially those
reaching this age in the spring months. They
should never be bred until the second heat,
which in this case should be in the fall. It is
too great a tax on the energies and system of
the bitch, the pups are apt to be weak and puny,
and the strain may affect the constitution of
the bitch through life. If one expects strong,
vigorous pups with stamina and constitution
when they attain maturity, they should never
breed a bitch under eighteen months of age.
Bitches generally come in heat every six 01?
eight months, on an average three times in two
years. They should be separated from the
dogs at the very first sign of heat, which are
generally excessive spirits and playfulness, un-
due levity on the part of the quiet, sedate old
lady being an infallible sign. The next stage
is the swelling of the parts, followed by the
discharge. If it is a strange bitch, let her be-
come accustomed to her new surroundings be-
fore service. Do not keep near dogs. Remem-
ber their remarkable noses are doubly keen
under such circumstances. Take the greatest
possible precautions to isolate her, then double
your precautions. There is not only a chance
of her getting out, but a greater one of dogs
82 THE FOXHOUND
getting in to her. I have known some remark-
able feats of both, and have heard of some
more incredible ones.
It is neither necessary nor wise to serve a
bitch as soon as she is willing to accept service;
one week from the first appearance of discharge
is the proper time and two services forty-eight
hours apart are as good as half a dozen. The
period of actual heat is about ten days, though
this is often exceeded or decreased in duration.
There is little truth in the saying of nine days
coming and nine days going out. The average
length of service is fifteen minutes, and the dog
should be removed instantly, never being left
with the bitch after service.
If the bitch forms a messalliance, a prompt
injection of weak solution of bichloride of mer-
cury will have the desired effect. Never take
a bitch's word for it that her heat has passed,
but keep her close for several days after she
has denied the soft impeachement. Occasion-
ally a bitch, though fully in heat, refuses to ac-
cept service. In a case of this kind she should
be muzzled and forced to accept — only, how-
ever, in positive and unmistakable cases. Ex-
cessively fat bitches show impaired powers of
reproduction and frequently fail to breed or
will have small litters with sickly pups.
The best conformation for brood bitches is
BREEDING AND RAISING 38
one with wide and strong loins and good
length of flank. Too much exercise cannot be
given during this period, and hunting should
be kept up at least four weeks after service.
After four weeks, regular yard and road exer-
cise should be given, though care should be
taken in exercising to prevent colds. From
now on one cannot be too careful in adminis-
tering strong purgative medicines or applying
any soaps, washes, or strong remedies for
mange or vermin. The period of gestation is
sixty-three days and seldom varies except
through accident.
It is safe to count on the first service, if per-
formed in the latter rather than the first period
of the heat. The bitch will have a capricious
appetite at this time and should be well sup-
plied with a variety of food. A bitch that is
known to be rough and careless toward her
pups should not be given a whelping box. A
small house with a dry dirt floor is best. In
this hollow out a nest several days in advance,
that she may become accustomed to it. The
circular form of nest will prevent her lying or
stepping upon the pups, as they will always
gravitate toward the center. The antiseptic
qualities of the dry earth are too well known
to need comment.
The bitch's disposition changes very mate-
34 THE FOXHOUND
rially as parturition approaches, and the quiet-
est, gentlest of them may become restless, nerv-
ous, and irritable. After seeing that each
puppy has suckled once, do not intrude upon
her. Let her alone; she understands the ne-
cessities of the situation much better than you.
Feed soft foods for a few days, but do not
worry about the amount she eats; nature has
attended to that, but always have plenty of
cool, clean water within easy reach. Later on
the enormous drain on her vitality can be met
with generous and tempting food. If a pup
should die, or be crushed, remove the body at
the first opportunity, as the inclination and in-
stinct to eat it may lead to eating of all. This
also frequently happens when they are moved
from place to place or disturbed or interfered
with.
A bitch in good condition, getting plenty of
food and exercise, can raise eight puppies,
though I had a bitch raise fifteen of her own
whelping. If a foster mother is considered
desirable, make the change gradually, one or
two at a time, removing the foster mother's
pups every time you add a strange one and rub
some of the foster mother's milk over added
pups. Their eyes will open in nine days, and
when they are three or four weeks old they
BREEDING AND RAISING 35
will lap milk or soup. The former should al-
ways be boiled, thinned with water, and a little
sugar added. Later bread crumbs and well-
boiled meat may also be added. They should
be given a simple remedy for worms (see rem-
edy in chapter on Diseases and Remedies) at
five or six weeks of age. Pups, no matter how
they are raised, are troubled with these pests
of puppyhood.
Puppies kept clean and dry more frequently
escape the terrible ravages of distemper than
others. Feed them three or four times a day
until six months of age, then once daily, prefer-
ably at night, will suffice. Avoid giving medN
cine as much as possible. More hounds die
from improper and excessive uses of medicines
than from want of it. Give them access to
grassland and they will find their own remedies.
Never attempt to raise hound pups in a ken-
nel; a kennel-raised pup is absolutely worthless;
Adopt the English custom of farming them out,
or, as they express it, put them " out to walk."
Unless the person taking them has had expert
ence in raising pups, it is safest to give them
written instructions, especally as to feed, ver-
min, worms, and distemper.
TRAINING AND HUNTING
CHAPTER III
TRAINING AND HUNTING
THE sport of hunting wild animals on
their native heath, whether with hound
or gun, is the natural recreation of man.
Love of hunting in its different phases is one
of the strongest characteristics of the human
race, the principles and methods of which were
instilled into our remote ancestors and rightly
inherited by us ; and he who has once tasted the
sweets of foxhunting is its devotee for life.
When the system has once absorbed the love
of the chase it never can be eradicated.
In this country, since the earliest days of
colonization, the sport of foxhunting has
thrived with unflagging, in fact increasing,
enthusiasm. Our early ancestors, especially in
Maryland, Virginia, and Kentucky, were dev-
otees of the sport, and every country gentle-
man owned his pack of hounds and stable of
horses; but the first organized hunt club on the
39
40 THE FOXHOUND
order of an English hunt was in 1877, when
ten couples of hounds were imported and drag
runs were made on Long Island. They afford-
ed probably more amusement to outsiders than
to the participants, who were caricatured and
held up to ridicule by the press. However, this
sport found favor in the eyes and hearts of the
riders of the East, and soon drag hunts were
had near many of the Eastern cities. Thus a
desire for cross-country riding was created
which has developed into successful hunt clubs
in the East.
It has never been popular in any other sec-
tion of the country, and absolutely unknown in
the South. A Southern hunter would as soon
think of gratifying his sporting ambition by
tossing up a dead bird bought in the market
and shooting at it as by running a drag, and
the devotee of drag-hunting considers many of
the foxhunting customs of the South and West
equally absurd and amusing.
Hunting in America requires an altogether
different hound from those used in England,
conditions being very dissimilar. Hounds re-
quire superior hunting ability, wide ranging,
greater perseverance and patience, and above
all a much better nose to enable them to take
an old and cold track probably made the day
TRAINING AND HUNTING 41
before and work it out inch by inch for six or
eight hours if necessary. They get absolutely
no assistance from the hunter and have no one
to rely upon but themselves. I have known
instances where a single hound would slip away
from home, travel eight or ten miles to where
he had previously run a fox, find an old trail,
and work it diligently for fifteen or twenty
hours.
No animal is called upon to perform harder
feats than is the Foxhound, and none excel or
equal them in ability and willingness to per-
form them. As proficiency in other arts is
attained only by close application and constant
practice, so the art, for surely it is an art, of
breaking and training a Foxhound requires not
only these but a large fund of love and a mu-
tual bond of sympathy and understanding be-
tween man and hound.
The trainer having the requisite keenness
'and perseverance, combined with kindness and
quick observance of the nature and disposition
of hounds, can produce surprising results.
Unfortunately few trainers or hunters possess
sufficient knowledge of hound characteristics or
the unlimited stock of patience necessary to per-
fect a hound to the proper degree of efficiency.
A successful hunter or trainer should have in-
42 THE FOXHOUND
tuitive knowledge bordering on instinct of the
ways and habits of the fox and a well-defined
idea, based upon practical experience, as to just
what a fox is apt to do under various circum-
stances over which he (the fox) has no control.
A fair knowledge of the country to be hunted
is of great service, especially in " striking off a
loss," or "making casts," in the earlier
" checks " of a run.
It is the judicious study of the individual
hound that distinguishes the successful trainer,
and his judgment must be called into requisi-
tion in training different hounds, as no iron-
clad rules can be laid down. In limited space
it is impossible to give the full detail neces-
sary to enable a novice to graduate a broken
trained hound. Only the fundamental princi-
ples can be touched upon. In fact, many in-
stances arise through idiosyncracies of individ-
ual hounds where no general rules can apply.
Common sense must be appealed to and spe-
cific treatment administered.
In America we have no professional trainer,
every man is a law to himself, and few Ameri-
can hounds receive any except self-training.
The knowledge they obtain is by absorption
from contact with other hounds. Their nat-
ural instinct prompts them to hunt and trail;
TRAINING AND HUNTING 43
many bad habits are contracted in this crude
method that, once instilled in the system, are
almost impossible to eradicate and are fre-
quently transmitted to their progeny. The
hound is gregarious by nature, preferring to
hunt in packs, but the undeviating perseverance
and high courage of the American hound
makes it easier to train him to hunt alone than
is possible with the English hound, whose train-
ing is generally in a pack. Pack training, how-
ever, has a tendency to destroy the self-reliance
and independence so natural to the American
hound, which hunts independently of hound or
man and seldom expects or receives assistance
from either.
Different methods and conditions in hunting
are responsible for the widely divergent dif-
ference in hounds in the field, though practi-
cally of the same strain and breeding. Hounds
for use in the North and in New England,
where a single hound is hunted, require a far
more systematic training and education than
the pack hound of the South. The dog should
be taught by means of the check cord to fol-
Jow his master " at heel," become accustomed
voice, to jump in and out of a vehicle at com-
^to strange sights, and to come when called by
mand, and to ride quietly therein. He should
44 THE FOXHOUND
be broken to gun, chain, and collar, and above
all to know his master's horn. Familiarity
should not be countenanced, and any desire on
his part to jump upon or place his front feet
upon his master should be checked by gently
mashing his hind foot by stepping upon it
when he rears.
The native New England hound, doubtless
through ancestral influence, is of a more pliable
nature and better adapted to the style of hunt-
ing used in that section than the Southern
hound, which has inherited the pack instinct for
many generations. Yet the Southern hound,
owing to his extreme speed and brilliancy in
driving his quarry, is rapidly replacing the na-
tive. English hounds are undoubtedly more
susceptible to training and handling, and in
England much attention is paid to manners
and good behavior at walk, in the kennels, and
in the field. The thing taught is obedience
and respect to the master; such a thing as an
unruly or riotous pack is almost unknown.
Unfortunately in America the very opposite
is true, a well-mannered, obedient hound being
a rare exception. The fact that comparatively
few packs of American hounds are kept ken-
neled and the absence of " whippers-in " are
in a measure responsible for this unfortunate
TRAINING AND HUNTING 45
condition, while the naturally free and inde-
pendent nature of the American hound renders
his education along this line more difficult than
with the English.
There is little or no excuse for the harum-
scarum manner in which hounds are generally-
fed, handled, and taken to and from the hunt-
ing ground. With the use of " couples " and
an energetic " whipper-in " desirable results
will soon be apparent, especially if hounds are
roaded and packed when not actually en route
to and from the hunting ground. Good man-
ners, when once acquired, should not be al-
lowed to grow lax. By a display of resolu-
tion an unruly hound is readily subdued, and
if he is mastered at the beginning of his train-
ing is usually submissive afterward. If taken
in time the desire to resist can be more easily
overcome than the actual resistance can be con-
quered later on.
Hounds, if properly treated, are capable of
great affection. Their confidence should never
be abused. The whip is the most dangerous
implement in most hands, especially in those of
the trainer whose temper is easily ruffled at
some offense or breach of discipline on the
part of the hound. Firmness and considera-
tion appeal more to the sympathetic nature of
46 THE FOXHOUND
the hound than strength and cruelty. The
whip should be used sparingly with highly nerv-
ous or excitable hounds that need restraint or
correction. The voice, if properly modulated,
will generally have the desired effect. Hounds
will not readily forgive or forget an unde-
served blow, and when it is too freely bestowed
they soon learn to consider man an agent of
torture rather than a friend.
Never make a companion or pet of a hound,
and never offer to pet or caress one in the field.
This places them on a familiar footing and
" familiarity breeds contempt." The pamper-
ing and petting which many hounds are sub-
jected to by overindulgent owners are respon-
sible for the ruin of many a promising hound.
If not a breeder, in selecting hounds attention
must be paid to qualities and characteristics of
antecedents, as ancestral influence is certain to
crop out in later generations. While inherited
instinct may be more or less latent, it is always
present, and it is simply a question of develop-
ment by proper handling and training. A
hound with bad qualities is more apt to per-
petuate them in his progeny than he is to throw-
back to better qualities which were possessed
by his blue-blooded ancestors.
Hunting and training qualities are usually
TRAINING AND HUNTING 47
inherited from the dam, while speed, endur-
ance and conformation are transmitted from
the sire. Even a superficial knowledge of the
subject indicates that speed and hunting instinct
are among the greater qualities a hound should
possess and they are much sought after. But
a hound lacking vital force, staunchness, and
endurance can never excel. During the kinder-
garten course as far as possible pups should be
trained under the most favorable hunting con-
ditions, and the work made as easy and light
as possible. Later on harder problems may
be submitted for their solution. An ideal hunt-
ing day is when the ground is damp and moist
(not frozen) with a heavy atmosphere, a
cloudy sky, and light southern breeze.
At six months of age the average hound's
brain is sufficiently developed to enable him to
grasp the simpler rudiments of training and
to realize that he has a mission in life other
than the theft of everything portable he en-
counters. At this age his manners should re-
ceive proper attention. He should be made
acquainted with the sights and sounds of the
road, and no better method can be advised
than to couple him to a quiet, staid, dignified
old hound and road them through the country.
As soon as he is disposed to behave himself
48 THE FOXHOUND
he should be uncoupled, at first only when on
the way home. At the first indication of lev-
ity on his part recouple him promptly, giving
him to understand the why and wherefore.
Never allow hounds to visit farmyards un-
punished. Disabuse their minds of the idea
that they must make the acquaintance of every
cur of high or low degree they meet on the
road. The first lessons in actual hunting
should commence when six to ten months of
age, according to physical development. If at
this stage a careful study of the nature and
eccentricities shows faults too pronounced and
not easily corrected, it is far better to dispose
of the hound than to waste time on him with
the liability of others contracting the same
faults.
It is a very common as well as pernicious
custom of the tyro to allow hound puppies to
hunt or run rabbits. This is a serious mistake.
Why allow them to acquire a habit that will
take weeks and months to break them of later?
It is only fair to say that ninety per cent, of
the hounds that are first entered to rabbit can
never be made absolutely rabbit proof. The
best plan is to enter them to fox cubs. If a
den is not conveniently near and old foxes are
scarce, a captive fox taught to lead may be
TRAINING AND HUNTING 49
utilized in the preliminary lessons, at least until
they can learn the intoxicating delight a well-
bred hound experiences in scenting a fox.
Great care should be exercised in using a
captive fox to keep it far enough away from
the pups so they may never see or smell it until
they run across the trail laid for them. In
other words, a captive fox should never be
kept anywhere in the vicinity of the kennels.
It is better to hunt puppies where a gray rather
than a red fox " uses." Should they strike an
old red it will not only take the heart out of
them, but his straightaway tactics will take
them out of your own field of observation.
The gray will dodge, twist, and make short
circles, thus enabling you to note the perform-
ances of the puppies and correct their faults.
The presence of an older and better hound
teaches the younger hounds how to circle for a
loss and checks the disposition of many young
hounds to back track when a loss is made. A
slow hound is best to train them with first, but
he must not be a potterer or a babbler. After
he has the fox up and the pup has taken hold
of the line, if opportunity presents to take up
the old hound without the knowledge of the
pup do so. If the pup makes a loss or quits
for any cause replace the old hound, to assist
50 THE FOXHOUND
him. If a loss is made when hunting alone, do
not get excited and try to rush him along.
There is less danger of becoming a potterer
than rioter. Keep quiet: excitement is conta-
gious.
If he shows no disposition to u circle " make
the cast yourself and gently coax him to accom-
pany you. When he finally strikes the line
cheer him on. Never take a hound by the
collar or lead him and put him on the line; get
him to it naturally and let him think he has
" struck it off." No matter how much time is
lost, let him work out his own salvation. This
habit of laying on the line has proved a curse
to the English hounds.
When a distant hound opens and the pup
fails to " hark " to him, attract his attention
by repeating the word " hark " sharply, then
start rapidly toward the sound, urging him to
" go to him," stop, cry " hark," and repeat
this, getting nearer all the time until the pup
" goes in." Should he be " thrown out," re-
peat this later, as the fox is certain to circle
and return within hearing distance. When
possible alternate hunting alone and with pack.
If hunted always with a pack, especially of his
superiors, the young dog will soon acquire a
habit of waiting or holding back until others
TRAINING AND HUNTING 51
make a strike and his usefulness will be much
impaired. When alone he soon develops con-
fidence in his own ability that will later stand
him in good stead.
Hunting with inferior hounds teaches him
to go ahead, forge for the front, pick up a
loss, and to depend upon his own efforts. Hunt-
ing with better hounds teaches him through ob-
servation how to accomplish these ends with
accuracy and more ease to himself. If covert
is close, swampy, infested with briars, or im-
penetrable, never hunt him alone, but with a
slow, painstaking older hound which will in-
duce him to enter and remain in the face of
adverse conditions; if inclined to babble or run
riot, he should be given five or six miles of
brisk road work behind a horse or vehicle be-
fore throwing him in. This will take off the
keen edge and subdue his spirits enough to get
him down to business. One thus inclined
should never be broken with a noisy hound,
but a steady, reliable one, that knows just
when to give tongue and how much of it.
Punishment for babbling and running riot
should be administered promptly and deci-
sively. Spare your voice with young hounds.
Remember silence is a necessary qualification
of a successful trainer and that hounds soon
52 THE FOXHOUND
become noisy babblers like their masters. Back
tracking is a grievous fault, one of the hardest
to overcome as well as one of the easiest to
acquire. A hound showing a disposition to
back track should as far as possible be given
opportunities to run hot, fresh trails, even if
the aid of a captive fox is necessary. It is
far easier to distinguish the right way of the
track when fresh than when cold. Great care
should be exercised in punishing a hound for
back tracking. He thinks he is right and can-
not understand the punishment. It is far bet-
ter to let him continue on a track until it
" peters out," for then he realizes that some-
thing is wrong, especially if in his next run he
gets near enough to his fox to find the scent
increasing.
Training with a drag is very apt to make
back trackers of any hound. If in preliminary
lessons you are not fortunate enough " to
hole " a wild fox, the captive fox should be
brought into play, a half or three-quarter mile
trail laid by leading, and the fox securely holed
at the end. Let the hound run the trail to the
hole alone; as long as he shows a disposition
to stay and bay do not put in an appearance,
but keep in viewing distance. At the first indi-
cation of leaving, come forward and make
TRAINING AND HUNTING 53
exaggerate defforts to dislodge the fox, urging
the hound to bay and get him out. Drop back
out of sight gradually and repeat your actions
several times. Finally dig him out, and if
foxes are plentiful allow him to " break " the
fox, this being a good time to blood the hound.
If when hounds are thrown " in cover " a
11 blank draw" results, do not take the hounds
up, but let them hunt along to the next cover.
Move slowly, indicating the direction by a sin-
gle short blast on your horn every few hundred
yards to enable the hounds to keep in touch
with you. Moving rapidly has a tendency to
make " roaders " of otherwise good hounds.
Should a young hound " come in " while others
are hunting, trailing, or driving, and you can-
not induce him to go to them, do not allow him
to He around or follow you, but send him
immediately to the kennel; otherwise he will
soon become a confirmed loafer, in which case
he should be presented with an ounce of lead.
The practiced ear will readily distinguish a
hound's tongue when out of sight. When you
hear a hound " open " do not put spurs to your
horse to get to him unless you recognize his
tongue and know him well; he may fool you.
If other hounds are in sight, watch them
closely. They will " head up " at the sound
54 THE FOXHOUND
and listen intently, and if they are not thor-
oughly satisfied will resume their own hunting.
This may be repeated several times. Then
without any apparent difference in tone the
hounds " will hark to it " and with bristles up
and tail lashing take high fences in their eager-
ness to " get in." They know the characters
of their hound friends better than you do and
can tell when they are bluffing or in earnest.
Never force or hurry hounds in puzzling out
a cold trail. This is one of the most fruitful
means of spoiling sport, as well as hounds. If
you feel restless and impatient, dismount and
sit on a fence or stump. If you and your
horse show impatience it will surely be com-
municated to the hounds and a check will soon
develop in a loss. Never go ahead of the
hounds; remember, no matter how great the
temptation is to be in front, you cannot catch
the fox yourself, but you can, and probably
will, not only spoil the day's sport but you also
run the risk of spoiling the hound by such
tactics.
When " casting " never offer to assist as
long as the hounds are diligently trying to
" strike off." The less they are interfered with
the better; they understand finding a fox better
than you do. Hounds while fresh are very ex-
TRAINING AND HUNTING 55
citable and unless you overrun the line at the
first turn and make a loss do not keep too close
to them when driving. This is responsible for
spoiling more good runs than all the bad soil,
high wind, and climatic conditions combined.
In hunting the hunter should stay with the
hounds and not allow the hounds to stay with
him. They are supposed to do the hunting and
should not learn to rely upon the hunter to
select likely places to get up the fox or strike
a trail. When hounds are " thrown in " stay
perfectly quiet and keep your horse so.
Hounds are easily rattled at this stage, espe-
cially if they have been kenneled for several
days, and too much enthusiasm on your part
may cause them to riot. Frequently, owing to
the character of the country in wooded districts,
it is impossible to keep the hounds within sight
or hearing; then the craft of the hunter or
trainer with an accurate knowledge of the
habits of the game comes into play. If sheep
or cattle are in sight he can tell at a glance if
they passed in their vicinity, can even tell the
very direction taken. Every flock of fowls,
farm dog, or cur of low degree is an indicator.
If there is a band of horses he can tell whether
the hounds were close or far behind the fox.
If there is a crow or jaybird in the neighbor-
56 THE FOXHOUND
hood he can locate the fox, as both are invet-
erate enemies of the fox and will not only
" peach " upon him, but do everything in their
power to advise the world at large of the fox's
presence. All of these signs are Greek to the
novice and can only be learned by constant
observation.
While it is best to train in daytime, as the
work of the hound can be noted to better ad-
vantage, good results are obtained by night
hunting, especially in the South, where scenting
conditions are better at night and the fox is
more easily found, runs longer, and keeps a
more regular course. The trainer should fa-
miliarize himself with the tongue or voice of
each hound. An experienced hunter can tell
the feelings swaying a hound as each note re-
flected in the music of the mouth represents a
particular emotion, distinctly denoting eager-
ness, anxiety, uncertainty, joy, distress, or any
other canine feeling.
The number of times a week they should be
hunted at this stage of the game depends on
how they stand up to the work. As much care
should be taken to see they do not grow stale
or sour from overwork as that they do not
become soft and indolent from lack of work.
Their feet should be examined on the start from
TRAINING AND HUNTING 57
the kennel, also on the return to it. Place the
back of the hand to the hound's nose; if it is
cold and moist, he is all right.. If it is warm
and dry he should not be hunted, but given a
dose of castor oil and light road exercise. The
nose is the only absolutely correct indicator of
condition in a hound.
A bag fox can be liberated occasionally in
blooding young hounds. They never run like
a wild fox, even when they are fresh and unin-
jured; they generally go "down wind," and
though hounds run them in a half-hearted way,
the fox seldom, when turned down under fa-
vorable conditions for trailing, gets his " ticket
of leave." With twenty minutes' license,
hounds should kill in about the same amount
of time after being laid on the line. Never
attempt to call or collect your hounds by a false
call to game. You may fool them a few times,
but they will soon find you out and you will
realize that you have cried wolf once too often.
All hounds should be taught to swim, but do
not do it by throwing them into the water.
When the water is warm enough not to chill,
take them out in a boat a short distance from
the shore, place them gently in the water, and
pull ashore fast enough to prevent efforts to
get into the boat. It is seldom that more than
58 THE FOXHOUND
a couple of lessons are necessary to make them
feel at home in the water.
The homing instinct is possessed in greater
or less degree by all hounds and should be cul-
tivated to the utmost. This should not be done
by leaving them in the woods or hunting ground
to find their way home alone. Make short
excursions from the home and have them con-
fined for an hour after your departure. Grad-
ually increase the distance as well as the time
of confinement. Whenever a hound returns
voluntarily to the kennels he should be given
a morsel to eat, no matter what hour or how
near feeding time.
If you leave a hound while out hunting, he
soon loses confidence in you and looks upon
you as a deserter. When you are ready to re-
turn call him with your ,horn, the tone of
which you should familiarize him with in the
kennels. It is remarkable how readily they
learn the tone of their master's horn and never
forget or confuse it with another. Use the
cow horn in preference to the brass instrument.
The latter has no individuality and is very hard
for a hound to distinguish. There is a peculiar
charm, a mysterious sweetness about the tone
of a good, well-blown cow horn that no musical
instrument possesses. Its melody fills the heart
TRAINING AND HUNTING 59
of the hunter and quickens his blood as do the
drum and bugle that of a soldier.
One of the most important lessons to be
taught is that domestic animals are not legiti-
mate quarry. The worst habit a hound can
acquire is sheep killing; once acquired, no
earthly effort can break him of it. Young
hounds should be coupled and frequently taken
through sheep pastures. Should one show a
disposition to run or attack a sheep, ride him
down, whip him thoroughly, and give him the
impression that you intend to kill him then and
there. Should he repeat the offense, tie him
with a short rope to a vicious old ram who
will take pleasure in cracking a few ribs for
him, and he will forevermore lose his appetite
for mutton.
As a precaution against hounds running
deer, a young goat should be kept in and about
the kennels. To prevent gun shyness go to the
kennels at feeding time and while the hounds
are eating, fire a few shots from a small
rifle. Should any of them show any evidence
of fright or alarm speak to and pet them.
The next day use the twenty-two cartridges,
then a revolver and gradually lead up to a
shotgun. After firing lay the gun on the
ground for the dogs to inspect at their leisure.
60 THE FOXHOUND
Some hounds have a predilection for running
a dog track. This is almost as bad as the
" mutton habit " and calls for equally prompt,
heroic, and energetic treatment along the same
lines.
Between hunting seasons hounds should have
sufficient active and regular work to keep them
in discipline, muscles hardened, flesh down, and
pads well indurated. They will thus be ready
to resume their training on the opening of their
second season.
FEEDING
CHAPTER IV
FEEDING
THE subject of feeding is a matter of
the greatest importance, as upon proper
feed depends the health, spirits, general
appearance and capacity for work. There is
no detail of kennel management so imperfectly
understood as feeding, as is abundantly shown
by the lack of knowledge upon the part of
those taking upon themselves this responsibil-
ity and the resultant ailments directly attribut-
able to injudicious feeding.
The general rules to be observed are regu-
larity in time of feeding, moderation in the
quantity, and variety in the description of it.
Regularity in feeding is the most important
of these, as nothing tends more quickly to dis-
turb the digestive organs of the dog than a
long fast followed by a heavy meal given to
make up the deficiency.
There is much difference of opinion as to
whether hounds should be fed once or twice a
63
64 THE FOXHOUND
day. Some claim that the health and strength
of the dog will be impaired by being allowed
to go as long as twenty-four hours without
food. This may be the case with some breeds,
but hounds fed judiciously once a day can be
kept in perfect health and spirits, provided they
are not allowed to gulp it down and to over-
load their stomachs. This can be arranged
by using long, narrow V-shaped troughs made
from i"x6" hard wood 6 feet long closed at
both ends.
Troughs should be stood on end exposed to
the sun after feeding. If left upon the ground
it is a great temptation for a hound to urinate
on them and when once done every hound will
think it his bounden duty to follow suit.
Dogs in their natural or wild state, like
wolves, whose food depends largely upon acci-
dent are fortified by nature with powers of
resisting hunger for long periods. Of the
two evils, over- or under-feeding, the former
is by far the greater evil.
The quantity of food, of course, depends
entirely upon the size of the hound. While
no general rule can be laid down, it is safe to
calculate an ounce of food for every pound
weight of the hound. Should a healthy hound
under ordinary exercise grow thin on this ra-
FEEDING 65
tion it is fair to presume he has tape or com-
mon worms, and should be treated as else-
where provided.
During the hunting season the ration can
be increased in proportion to the work done.
A hound should never under any circumstances
have access to an unlimited quantity of food
or be allowed to eat until he ceases to be hun-
gry. The minute he ceases to eat eagerly and
begins to walk about, pick or choose his food,
he should be stopped.
It is not enough to see that they are sup-
plied with sufficient food. Like human beings
they vary much in their requirements, and it
is advisable to watch them closely when eating
to make note of the effect of different quan-
tities of food upon their systems and to ob-
serve their changing conditions. Bear in mind
the age, amount of exercise, health, season of
the year, and their individual needs. Always
be on the lookout for a falling or flagging
appetite, as that is the earliest and surest
symptom of disease. When the kennelman
has familiarized himself with their individual
appetites and manner of eating he should sep-
arate the hounds at feeding time, the timid,
shrinking, poor feeders in one pen and the
hustling bolters in another.
66 THE FOXHOUND
The dog is a carnivorous animal and re-
quires more or less of a meat diet. Some so-
called authorities, while admitting that the dog
was originally carnivorous, claim that from his
long association with man he has become om-
nivorous, and that meat is not necessary for
perfect development and health. While it is
true that dogs are practically omnivorous in
the present day, the assertion that meat is en-
tirely unnecessary is absurd.
The small digestive system and the carniv-
orous type of teeth remain and are entirely
unsuited to farinaceous and starchy foods.
Mutton and beef are the best meats for
hounds, but owing to their high cost are pro-
hibitive, especially for packs. Horseflesh can
be substituted and hounds thrive well upon it.
Care should be taken to see that the horse did
not die from glanders. In the proper feeding
of hounds quality is of much more importance
than quantity.
The principal feed of hounds in this coun-
try is necessarily meals and should be pre-
pared as follows:
One-third cornmeal (unbolted), one-third
shorts from wheat flour, and one-third hog
cracklings (refuse after lard has been extract-
ed). This should first be thoroughly boiled in
FEEDING 67
a steam-jacketed kettle, then baked brown in
a regular brick oven. In summer it is best to
substitute oats for cornmeal, as the latter is
too heating, and two tablespoonsful of hypo-
sulphite of soda should be added for every
ten couples. It should be baked hard, forcing
them to chew it up, thus causing a flow from
the salivary glands that aids digestion.
The feeding of soft, sloppy, starchy foods,
while fattening, leaves the hounds soft and
flabby and produces eczema and mange.
Baked hard the hound cannot bolt it, requir-
ing crunching and better mastication. It keeps
the teeth clean and firm, a soft food fed
hound of two years of age frequently has the
mouth of a four or five-year-old hound.
Dogs fed wholly on farinaceous foods take
on flesh rapidly, their systems become weak-
ened and predisposed to disease and lack the
highest development of courage, endurance,
and gameness so greatly desired in hounds.
An occasional feed of vegetables should be
given as the meal diet is very heating to the
blood and frequently brings on attacks of
eczema and mange, the curse of all hound
packs. It is doubtless to supply deficiency of
vegetables that a dog is seen to eat grass.
Bones, described as a dog's tooth brush, are
68 THE FOXHOUND
greatly relished by them and are of great serv-
ice in removing tartar, which frequently forms
around the teeth near the gums and either
loosens them or sets up an irritation. Bones
should never be given to dogs when their stom-
achs are empty, but only after being fed.
Feeding should be done by the same person
every day, preferably superintended by the
man who hunts them, as it will assist him in
enforcing discipline and obedience in the field.
When a hound refuses to eat he should be
thoroughly examined. If nose is found dry
and warm his temperature should be taken.
If registering above 101 in the rectum (nor-
mal) he should be given a dose of castor oil
and watched carefully for a day or two for
other symptoms of sickness.
It is of the utmost importance that they have
a pure water supply. Many intestinal com-
plaints are produced by a deficiency in this
respect. Drinking vessels should be so ar-
ranged that they cannot be soiled by the dogs
confined in the kennel, the temptation being
great to use them as urinals. Vessels should
be so placed as not to be exposed to the rays
of the sun and should be regularly cleaned,
and moss and scum removed from the bottoms
and sides.
FEEDING 69
A most excellent water trough can be made
of old galvanized range boilers by cutting a
four by twelve hole along the side in the center
and burying it upon its side, allowing the hole
to be flush with the surface of the ground.
It will hold about thirty gallons and the earth
will keep it at a proper temperature, and the
small opening will prevent the hounds from
soiling the water. By placing half the boiler
in either yard beneath the division fence and
making an opening in the boiler on each side
of the fence the one trough will serve both
yards.
Where practicable, running water (unfortu-
nately seldom to be had) should be provided,
and a box trough arranged for them to bathe
and cool off in.
KENNELS
CHAPTER V
KENNELS
THE question of kennels is a more im-
portant one than is generally supposed,
and the venerable saying " Anything is
good enough for a dog " should be replaced
by " Nothing is too good for a hound," as
those who have attempted to kennel valuable
hounds in unfitting quarters have discovered
to their cost.
While it is unnecessary to invest large sums
of money in kennels to insure comfort and
health for the occupants, one should not go to
the other extreme of overcrowding hounds in
unfitting quarters. Cramped quarters and
foul surroundings will do more to unfit hounds
for field work than can be counteracted by all
the skill of competent trainers and handlers.
Anyone who wishes to gain a reputation as a
successful breeder or hunter of hounds should
well consider the matter of comfortably ken-
neling them.
73
74 THE FOXHOUND
Supervise your kennels yourself if you want
it well done; if you want it half done, relegate
it to the best possible man you can employ,
irrespective of cost.
The following plans not only insure an in-
expensive kennel, but also one best adapted
for the hound's welfare, both in and out of
season. If it is desired, one can substitute
brick and stone for the wooden structure, but
the only advantage it will possess will be in
looks and durability.
The first and most important consideration
should be the location. When possible it
should be high and gently sloping in every di-
rection, so that during the rainy season pools
and puddles cannot form in the yards or runs,
and in a downpour the ground can be washed
and the surface water drained off promptly.
The soil should be dry and light, and free
from clay.
The plan illustrated provides kennels and
grounds for twenty couples; the size of the
runs, yards, and grounds can be regulated by
the amount of land at one's disposal, the
larger in area the better. The minimum
should be one acre. The outer fencing should
be of nine-inch cedar posts, set three feet in
the ground. A trench two feet deep should
76 THE FOXHOUND
then be dug, and a twenty-four-inch heavy two-
inch mesh galvanized wire netting called hog
wire stretched from post to post beneath the
surface. Fill the trench, tamping the dirt
compactly. This will insure against any
hounds digging out.
Three-inch strips, eight feet long, of rough
oak fencing, securely nailed on the outside of
the stringers, with two-inch spaces between,
will forever prevent scaling or gnawing out.
Should any portion of the outside fence lie
upon or near a public passageway it should be
boarded up solid with ordinary fencing plank,
care being taken to stop up all cracks or knot-
holes, all such being a fruitful source of noise
in a kennel. The same instructions should be
observed in erecting the division fences on
the pack side of the kennels, except that the
three-inch strips need only be five feet long,
placed three inches apart, with a two-foot gal-
vanized wire netting stretched along the top
as well as beneath the surface. This will allow
more sunlight and breeze.
The division fences on the breeding, hos-
pital, and puppy sides should all have solid
fences four feet high with three-foot netting
along the top, and two-foot wire in the
trenches. Gateways throughout should have
KENNELS 77
automatic catches in addition to a simple slide
or bar on each, and should be wide enough to
admit a wheelbarrow. The dimensions given
on the plan of kennels are the minimum and
can be increased as desired, but should never
be diminished. The foundation should be of
brick and the floor at least thirty inches from
the ground. The space beneath the floor can
be partitioned off with plan the same as the
floor plan, with a ten by twenty slide door,
opening into each yard or run. A piece of
carpet hanging over this opening will admit
the hounds, yet darken the place sufficiently to
keep out the flies and heat.
A twenty-four by twenty- four-inch trapdoor
on hinges should be placed in the floor of each
compartment. This makes an admirable re-
treat for the hounds from the heat and flies,
the latter being the curse of all kenneled
hounds.
A light bed of pine shavings on the bare
ground under the floor, with an occasional
sprinkling of turpentine, will keep all flies and
vermin away, and should not be overlooked,
else the entire kennels will become infested
with these pests.
The flooring should be doubled, with a
layer of good roofing paper between, the top
78 THE FOXHOUND
floor being matched. Brick and asphalt floors
should never be used; concrete is the best of
such floors, but I do not advise its use. It is
more or less conducive to kennel lameness,
which is simply another form of rheumatism.
In mild climates the siding may be of boxing,
well stripped, but in colder climates it should
be plastered, or have the addition of a good
building paper, or, better still, some of the
many eel grass papers, on the sheathing.
Under no circumstances should a metal roof
be used. They are cold in winter and intensely
hot in summer, and have nothing but their
price to recommend them. Shingles are the
best.
Each compartment should have a narrow
door with a latch on the outside, a sliding
door twelve by eighteen, six inches from the
floor, a sliding window and wire screen open-
ing into the rear compartments, placed six feet
from floor; an adjustable ventilator arranged
to throw the draft against the ceiling when
open.
A portable sleeping bench can be made with
twelve-inch solid back and four-inch rail
around sides and front, with short legs six
inches high which will prevent crawling under-
neath. This style bench can be taken out,
KENNELS 79
scrubbed, dried, and ventilated, a most impor-
tant consideration.
The cook-room should have a small, up-
right, single-flue, four-horse power boiler for
generating steam, connected to a steam-jack-
eted kettle holding sixty gallons. This is a
far better way of cooking food than the direct-
fire furnaces and kettle, the food cannot be
scorched, and can be more thoroughly, evenly,
and quickly cooked.
The storeroom can be used for the storage
of raw and cooked food, straw, brooms, mops,
shovels, etc., and should have a good-sized
closet for the kennelman's individual use, as
well as a well-arranged medicine chest.
All four sides of the kennel should have a
covered porch from four to six feet wide, upon
which should be located the gates connecting
the different yards, where the hounds can lie
during wet and rainy weather.
If the weather is cold enough to require
heating the kennels, which is seldom, if ever,
the case, a coil of steam pipe can be run
through the compartments, connected to and
returning the condensation to the boiler. Indi-
vidual whelping boxes should be placed in the
breeding yard. They should be thirty inches
high at back, and forty-two inches in front,
80 THE FOXHOUXD
forty-eight by forty-eight in the clear, roof
covered with waterproof paper, and hinged so
as to lift entire roof easily, the hinges being
in front. The opening in front, at either side,
should be small, ten by eighteen, and closed by
hanging carpet, ventilation being secured by
raising the hinged roof the desired height from
the floor. A shelf six inches wide, four inches
from the floor, should extend all around four
sides, thus preventing lying upon the pups,
when young, or crowding them into a corner,
a practice very common with hound bitches,
and the means of killing a large percentage
of pups.
Straw is the best bedding, and should be re-
newed as soon as the bitch is through whelp-
ing. Boxes, similar to the whelping boxes,
minus the shelf, can be used to great advan-
tage in the puppy yard, and should be white-
washed inside and out even- fortnight — the
wash containing a powerful disinfectant.
Urinal posts of four by four oak, set at inter-
vals about the yards, will be patronized to the
extent of saving the whitewashed fences. The
habit can be cultivated by placing a few drops
of oil of anise seed occasionally upon the posts.
It is an excellent idea to have a hay-rick
frame containing straw placed in the larger
KENNELS 81
yards. The hounds will enjoy it thoroughly
if placed at a height they can jump upon and
romp about on. On cold days they will lie
upon it, sunning themselves, and in the hot
weather will seek its shade. The straw will
have to be renewed but seldom.
If in a warm climate a trench three feet
wide, two feet deep, and ten feet long, board-
ed over, covered with dirt and left open at
one end, will be much patronized and appre-
ciated by hounds in the summer months. This
should be closed in winter.
Theoretical hunters and breeders may smile
at the crudeness of the trench and straw-rick
arrangements for the pleasure and comfort of
the hounds, but if they will try them they will
readily see the advantages they possess.
The floors should be sprinkled with dry
slaked lime once a week except in wet weather
and the walks and benches whitewashed not
less than once a month. This lime is a power-
ful disinfectant and will keep out fleas, lice,
and vermin and tend to harden the hound's
feet and kill the germs of mange, distemper,
and black tongue.
In summer a light sprinkling of sawdust may
be put on top of the lime and in the winter a
good clean bed of straw; both, however, should
82 THE FOXHOUND
be renewed and removed regularly, especially
the straw when it becomes damp. In climates
where straw is not considered necessary for
warmth it serves the purpose of preventing the
rubbing off of hair and bed sores frequently
seen upon hounds kenneled for any length of
time. Shavings while lacking the warmth of
straw are a good substitute, especially pine
shavings which contain more or less turpentine,
the odor of which is very distasteful to fleas,
the pest of most kennels.
Clean gravel makes excellent kennel yards,
and should be thick enough to prevent absorp-
tion by the ground beneath of the droppings.
Ashes and cinders, while not so good as the
gravel, can be substituted; they are cheaper,
more easily obtained, and should be renewed
oftener. Before putting in a new supply the
yard should be liberally sprinkled with lime.
Platforms 4x8 feet, made of one-inch rough
boards nailed upon 2x4 scantlings to raise
them from the ground should be placed in each
kennel yard for the hounds to lie upon and
sun themselves in good weather and keep dry
in damp weather, as they should not be allowed
access to the kennel sleeping room except in
extremely cold and bad weather.
One should avoid chaining a hound, espe-
KENNELS 88
cially young ones. The collar not only leaves
an unsightly ring or mark on the hair around
the neck, but the frequent struggling and pull-
ing on the chain pulls the shoulders and legs
out of shape and affects the proper develop-
ment of other parts of the body.
If you have a hound that can scale the ken-
nel fence do not chain but clog him, making
sure that the clog is heavy enough to prevent
him hanging himself. A round cast-iron ball
of about fifteen pounds weight will allow him
plenty of freedom of movement. A wire
stretched across the yard, with ring and chain
attached, will allow such a hound ample exer-
cise.
DISEASES AND REMEDIES
CHAPTER VI
DISEASES AND REMEDIES
I HAVE aimed to describe in plain and
simple language the diseases to which
hounds are most subject, their signs and
symptoms, and the simplest and most rational
methods of treating them. There are of
course many other diseases to which they are
subject which lack of space will not allow me
to touch upon. If proper attention is paid to
the laws of sanitation and disinfectants are
used liberally these diseases may be avoided,
as a large percentage of them come under the
heading of preventable.
Dogs are subject to almost every disease the
human system is heir to. Hounds, from the
amount of exercise they get and their regular
and simple habits, are immune from many of
them, being singularly free from those of a
cerebral and spinal character so common in
other breeds, the most common hound ailment
being distemper and skin diseases.
87
88 THE FOXHOUND
While this is in no sense a " medical " work,
there are doubtless many novices in the raising
and handling of hounds to whom the following
simple remedies may prove of value. Remem-
ber there are no specifics in canine practice and
no medicines which are sure cures, always, for
the same diseases, but the following remedies
have been tried successfully, and if properly
administered will be found efficacious in a
large majority of cases.
The strictest attention to cleanliness and
sanitary conditions in a kennel alone will in-
sure sound, healthy animals, capable of sus-
taining the hard work hounds are called upon
to perform during the hunting season. No
matter how much confidence one has in the
ability and faithfulness of an attendant, con-
stant vigilance should never be relaxed by the
master in supervising these details.
The constant use of powerful disinfectants
is highly necessary in every kennel. Solutions
of carbolic acid, bichloride of mercury, sul-
phate of copper, or chloride of lime can be
had of any druggist; and walls, floors, ancl
fencing should be sprayed or sprinkled twice a
month in summer and once a month in winter.
Many disinfecting preparations on the market
are equally effective and more convenient on
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 89
account of the manner in which they are put
up. If the yards and runs are small and over-
crowded, twice a year the yards should be well
sprinkled with lime and plowed up or spaded
over and where possible covered to the depth
of two inches with fresh earth or soil. Neglect
of this precaution will cause sore and tender
feet, and a master or huntsman well knows
what this affliction means in a pack in the way
of trouble and loss of hunting.
Let me emphasize the importance of doing
whatever is necessary without delay. Any
complaint that is taken in hand in its earlier
stages, before it becomes thoroughly estab-
lished, is easier to combat than if it has quite
got into the system. The information given
here will be found especially useful in detect-
ing ailments in the early stages. Those own-
ers who are blessed with a fair amount of
common sense and have some little knowledge
of hygienic principles will be able in many cases
to diagnose the diseases and to administer such
remedies as will be likely gradually but surely
to restore the health of the animal.
In all serious cases the experience and prac-
tical knowledge of a duly qualified veterinary
surgeon should be obtained without delay, for
though an unskilled person may have a fair
90 THE FOXHOUND
amount of knowledge, it is very unwise to trust
valuable animals to chance.
Every hound should be carefully examined
daily, by the hand as well as by the eye. The
general condition of the body can be noted at
a glance by one accustomed to it, but many
minor troubles can be brought to sight by the
hand. After each run a careful examination
should be made of every hound participating
in the run. Holding the hound with one hand
by the muzzle, examine eyes, feel ears, place
back of hand to nose, run the hand down each
leg, squeezing the foot and examining pads and
stoppers.
Remove thorns or foreign substances which
are likely to set up inflammation and incapaci-
tate hound from next hunt. Look for barbed-
wire cuts, wood ticks, burns, and feel texture
of coat and general condition of body.
Mange
Hounds being kept in large numbers to-
gether are naturally greater sufferers from
contagious diseases than other breeds of dogs,
and mange is the curse of the majority of the
packs. While it is true that mange is depend-
ent upon contagion, there are several forms of
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 91
this loathsome disease that arise from the
keep, lack of exercise, improper food, and bed-
ding.
I have yet to see the attendant who could
keep his kenneled pack free of mange and ver-
min without dipping. Where a pack consists
of twenty or thirty couples, dipping, unless one
is prepared for it, is quite an undertaking.
The simplest apparatus to be used effectively
is made as follows: Construct a galvanized
iron tank forty-two inches long, fifteen inches
wide, and twenty-eight inches deep. Fill the
tank twenty inches deep with a solution of fifty
parts tepid water to one part sheep dip, sanitas,
phenyle, chloro-naptholeum, West's or any of
the many disinfecting fluids — not containing
carbolic acid — which are commonly advertised.
If preferred you can make your own mange
dip at a nominal trifling cost as follows and
it will be found equally as effective :
Three pounds of Babbitt's concentrated lye
and five pounds powdered sulphur in four gal-
lons of water; let it set over night; add twenty
gallons of water next morning and four ounces
of sulphuric acid, and let it set for four hours
before using. Place hound in tank and with
a dipper pour the liquid over him for two min-
utes, wetting each inch of him, being careful of
92 THE FOXHOUND
the eyes. Twenty couples can thus be dipped
in a comparatively short time without any
struggling, splashing or confusion. A few dip-
pings will cure the most stubborn case of
mange. Dip them every fortnight and your
pack will always be clear of mange, skin dis-
eases, and vermin.
Mange can also be quickly cured with one
pound of sulphur, one quart of fish-oil, two
ounces each of oil of tar and turpentine, and
should be tried before using harsher remedies.
This may seem a rather simple treatment
for a disease which canine pathologists and
veterinarians exhaust volumes upon, but it is
based entirely upon practice and not theory,
and fully covers the subject, as a trial will
demonstrate.
Fleas
Vermin often are very troublesome to
hounds and whole packs are made miserable
by the presence of these pests, through the
ignorance of the attendant in not knowing how
to dispose of them. There is absolutely no
excuse for this; the dipping of hounds, recom-
mended above, will kill all upon their bodies,
and if the floors and walls of the kennels are
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 93
sprinkled with a little turpentine, or what is
left of the dip, it will be found sufficiently po-
tent to exterminate or drive them away, and
a flea will never be found on the premises.
Eczema
Eczema, frequently mistaken for mange, is,
however, entirely different, and can only be
cured by constitutional treatment requiring
time and patience. For several years my dif-
ferent kennelmen were constantly treating the
hounds for mange, and only after employing
the microscope discovered it was eczema. It
is non-contagious, is an individual disease, and
is never transmitted. It is caused by lack of
exercise, constipation, overfeeding, injurious
foods, and indigestion, few packs being exempt
from it In a majority of cases of eczema in
hounds, it is caused from the continued use of
starchy foods, while mange is aggravated by
feeding too much flesh.
Therefore, in either case, the first step is to
change the food. If this cannot be accom-
plished, add ten grains of hyposulphite of soda
for each hound in the kennel, in cooking the
food. If for individual cases, Fowler's solu-
tion of arsenic will effect a cure ; give six drops
94 THE FOXHOUND
twice a day, increasing the dose two drops
daily until thirty drops are being given, then
decrease the dose in the same manner down
to the original dose of six drops. The irritat-
ing ointments and mange cures should be
avoided entirely, being generally worse than
useless.
The following lotion is both cooling and
healing, and should be applied twice daily to
the sore and inflamed parts; four drachms
Goulard's extract of lead and four drachms
laudanum to a pint of water.
The earliest symptom of eczema is an itch-
ing, the hound scratching himself on every
occasion. Upon examination a redness and
thickness will be noticed; no sores are visible
as in mange. The second stage cannot be mis-
taken. Small vesicles form filled with pus,
which on breaking out mat the hair together,
causing it to fall out and leave a spot with a
wet, inflamed, exuding surface.
As compared with mange, eczema is a stub-
born disease, hard to cure, and should never
be neglected, but treated in its first stage. If
unable to diagnose the two, a powerful micro-
scope will soon set your doubts at rest, as the
parasite always present in mange does not
appear in eczema.
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 95
Distemper
It is not an exaggeration to state that threes-
fourths of the canine race die from distemper.
It is an acute, infectious disease characterized
by inflammation of the mucous membranes of
the mouth, nose, throat, stomach, and bowels.
Whether it is of microbic origin or originates
spontaneously is a much discussed problem, but
it is sufficient for our purpose to know that it
is highly contagious and subjects should be
immediately isolated.
It is of the greatest importance that it be
detected in its earliest stages and treatment
commenced at once. The earliest symptoms
are sneezing, a dry, husky cough, and wiping
the nose with the paws, then a watery discharge
from the nose and the eyes which are more or
less reddened. These symptoms may also be
present in a bad cold, but if the dog shivers,
seeks warmth, and nose is dry and crusty, and
a loss of appetite is apparent, treatment for
distemper should be commenced immediately.
Every man owning hounds should have a clin-
ical thermometer; one can be had from any
druggist for 75 cents, and at this stage is al-
most a certain indication of this disease if it
registers above 101 in the rectum (normal).
96 THE FOXHOUND
There are several serums and anti-toxin
preparations on the market to be given hypo-
dermically that are supposed to immunize and
to cure distemper. I have tried all of them,
and find while they will immunize for a short
period, say during a bench show or field trial,
the effect soon wears off. They undoubtedly
make the attack lighter and assist a hound to
quicker recovery, but cannot be depended upon
to cure unaided a severe attack. A hound
should be watched closely and carefully nursed
throughout the sickness, and the many compli-
cations especially of stomach and intestines
combated. I have tried every remedy I could
hear of, and cannot say that I have found
them any better than a teaspoonful of salt or
a teaspoonful of common kerosene once a day
for a grown hound and half for a puppy.
Careful nursing, proper food to keep up
strength and keeping them from exposure to
damp weather will do as much toward recov-
ery as medicines.
There is generally severe diarrhea which, if
not promptly checked, goes into dysentery.
The stools are thin, offensive, sometimes black,
and more generally streaked with blood. Doses
of from two to three tablespoonfuls of castor
oil should be given every third or fourth day
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 97
and if not checked starched enemas must be
resorted to. They should have no water un-
less rice has been boiled in it and they should
be fed boiled milk with browned flour stirred
in it. Ten-grain doses of bismuth daily will
also assist in correcting bowel derangements.
The most important thing is to keep up the
strength and tempt their appetite with a vari-
ety of food, including milk and eggs. When
a hound quits eating, the case is serious indeed,
and forced feed should be resorted to, eggs
and milk with a little whisky or brandy added
should be given; several tablespoonfuls five or
six times a day, or a teaspoonful of syrup hypo-
phosphites several times a day is a most excel-
lent tonic.
At the end of the first week they should be
treated for the abscess that frequently forms
at end of spine or root of tail. Grasp tail with
left hand and pull it back, with finger and
thumb of right hand squeeze anus hard; this
will burst the abscess. Repeat in Hvt days.
Paralysis, so common in this disease, is caused
by this abscess.
Chorea
Chorea is one of the distressing after-effects
98 THE FOXHOUND
of distemper. The most frequent symptoms
are a spasmodic jerking or twitching of the
muscles; while distressing to look at, the hound
suffers no physical pain whatever. It is a most
obstinate disease and a hound is seldom worth
the trouble necessary to effect a cure. Give
five drops of Fowler's solution of arsenic, in-
crease the dose daily two drops until up to
thirty-six drops; then decrease the dose five
drops daily until back to the five drops. If no
decided improvement is noticed, give the hound
away. If you feel encouraged, go through the
treatment again and again. Remember arsenic
is poisonous.
Worms
It is a fact not generally known that all pups
are infested with worms and frequently when
ten days old; therefore do not wait or look for
symptoms, but treat all pups when Rvq weeks
old, whether they show any signs or not. How-
ever, if the following symptoms are present at
four weeks of age, do not hesitate to treat
them. All of the worm medicines advertised
are good for grown dogs, but many of them
will kill or stunt pups of this age.
The presence of worms in pups is indicated
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 99
as follows: constant whining and moaning as
if in pain, capricious appetite, bloating of the
abdomen, sometimes distended astonishingly,
discharge from the bowels frequent and wa-
tery, with a reddish color. Give on an empty
stomach, preceded the night before by a des-
sert-spoonful of castor oil, one teaspoonful of
the following:
Worms seed oil 65 drops
Oil of turpentine 8 drops
Olive oil 2 ounces
Castor oil 3 ounces
Do not feed for several hours afterwards.
For tapeworm, on an empty stomach give
one pill containing thirty-two grains areca nut
(freshly grated), eight grains santonine, and
five drops male fern, followed with dose of cas-
tor oil in four hours. If bov/els are loose after
treatment, boil rice in drinking water and give
five grains bismuth twice a day until checked.
Repeat dose weekly until no segments of tape-
worm are passed in actions.
The hookworm is a parasite that is killing
thousands of dogs annually, especially puppies.
Few are familiar with it and lose their dogs
without suspecting its presence. The first
symptoms of hookworm are a dull, sleepy look",
100 THE FOXHOUND
a lazy gait, lying around, loss of appetite; the
second stages are rapid emaciation, dead look-
ing coat of hair, the ball of the eye turning
white, gums, tongue, and roof of mouth white
and bloodless, and a generally anemic appear-
ance.
It is unlike any of the worms dogs are sub-
ject to; it never gets larger than a small cotton
thread, nor over half an inch in length, and is
very hard to find. It does not live upon the
food taken by the dog, but fastens itself to the
mucous membrane lining of the stomach and
intestines by its hook-shaped head and feeds
upon the blood of its victim until it becomes
weak and anemic and dies without apparent
cause. Unlike other worms, they do not enter
through the mouth or throat of their subjects,
but burrow their way through any portion of
the body, frequently starting in through the
feet and legs — a post mortem will show little
red spots in the intestines where they have done
their work.
While any and all the vermifuges and worm
medicines sold will expel the ordinary worms,
they are absolutely worthless in combating the
hookworm. The only successful remedy I have
ever tried is to give a dose of Epsom salts at
night, and next morning on an empty stomach
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 101
five grains of thymol (for pups), followed in
an hour with another dose of salts (under no
circumstances give oil) ; repeat this every other
day for three treatments and if no improve-
ment is noted in condition of the patient at
the end of ten days repeat. Remove the hound
from its quarters, as it will soon become rein-
fected as the very ground becomes impregnated
with them and the germ is almost indestruc-
tible. It is an absolute impossibility to raise
pups in kennels that have once become infected
with the hookworm.
Hydrophobia
Hydrophobia is generally supposed to affect
hounds more frequently than any other breed;
this is not a fact. Hydrophobia is extremely
rare in any breed, in fact reputable writers
declare there is no such disease, claiming it to
be one of imagination only. Occasionally a
case may occur in a hound, which will commun-
icate it to a whole pack, all of whom may have
to be destroyed, whereas a dog of another breed
having it would be detected and destroyed be-
fore he would have any opportunity of com-
municating it to but few others.
When hounds do have hydrophobia it is most
102 THE FOXHOUND
frequently in the form of dumb rabies and not
the violent, maniacal form that causes them to
" run amuck." Ashmont says:
"The dumb, or swollen form of rabies is
a peculiar type of hydrophobia without the
violent irritative stage. There is decidedly less
excitation of the brain; the violent paroxysms,
the constant motion, the disposition to bite, and
the propensity to stray are all absent, or present
in only a slight degree, and the animal is quiet,
silent, and dejected. Paralysis of the muscles
of the lower jaw is a characteristic symptom
of this form of malady, and manifests itself
early in the attack. The jaw drops and the
mouth remains constantly open. In rare cases
a partial control of the muscles is retained for
a time, sufficient to lift the jaw and allow the
animal to bite if sufficiently irritated.
" Rarely more than a few hours, possibly
three or four, elapse before the disease mani-
fests itself. Before this paralysis appears
there is great difficulty in swallowing, and the
poor dog will plunge his muzzle into water up
to his very eyes, in order that he may get one
drop of water into the back part of his mouth
to cool his parched throat. In this form of
rabies the flow of mucus and saliva is abundant,
the same dripping from the mouth. The voice,
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 103
changed and of a hoarse tone, is seldom heard,
and that peculiar combination of bark and howl,
characteristic of the violent form of the dis-
ease, is entirely absent."
Black Tongue
I give this description of dumb rabies in full
to enable the reader to detect the difference
between it and a peculiar disease that hounds,
especially in the South, are frequently afflicted
with. Though I have read all the best works
on the diseases of the dog, published both in
this country and in England, I have never
seen it mentioned.
It does not seem to have come under the
observation of canine specialists. It is called
"Black Tongue," is generally fatal, and is
contagious. The symptoms are almost identi-
cal with those of dumb rabies, with the ex-
ception that the tongue turns black and the
mucous membrane linings of the throat are
sore and inflamed. It is only recently that a
remedy has been found, all cases formerly re-
sisting treatment and proving fatal.
The remedy and treatment are as follows:
Paint the inside of the lips and tongue with
tincture of bloodroot once a day, and give a
104 THE FOXHOUND
tablet of one-twentieth of a grain of bichloride
of mercury three times a day. Keep the hound
on a milk diet until cured, and on soft foods
for some time gradually returning to solids.
If the hound will not drink milk freely, add a
little brandy and beaten eggs, to milk, and
pour a few spoonfuls down the throat every
few hours.
Poison
Hounds at liberty frequently pick up poisons
which may have been laid down for vermin,
etc. The principal ingredients which hounds
are likely to get in this way are arsenic, carbolic
acid, phosphorus, and strychnine. Hounds are
such inveterate creatures for poking their noses
into strange places that they soon find any-
thing tasty, and in this way greedily eat. If by
chance a dog should eat any poison, the first
step is to empty the stomach by a quick acting
emetic such as tartar emetic, or even warm
water with salt or mustard in small quantities,
afterwards giving some antidote, such as lard,
milk and egg, olive oil, etc., in large quantitty.
Castor oil is also very useful, and if there is
much pain, a dose of laudanum every three or
four hours.
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 105
It is easy to tell by the continued spasmodic
convulsions that a dog has taken poison. If
there is much depression a little whisky or
brandy may be given at frequent intervals. An
antidote for both arsenic and strychnine poison-
ing should always be kept in the kennel, and
the huntsman should familiarize himself with
the characteristic symptoms of each and carry
a supply of antidote with him to the field,
especially if there has been any friction with
the farmers in the neighborhood. The symp-
toms of arsenic poisoning are indicated by
vomiting and swollen tongue and the symptoms
of strychnine are twitching and jerking of the
limbs and muscles.
Foul Mouth
Owing to the fact that hounds are kenneled
and have more soft foods than the average dog,
they frequently have sore or foul mouth as
indicated by the deposit of tartar on their
teeth, sore and bleeding gums accompanied
with slobbering or flow of saliva from the
mouth. The remedy is simple and quick: give
two tablespoonsful of castor oil and pour a
teaspoonful of ten per cent, solution of perman-
106 THE FOXHOUND
ganate of potash in the mouth daily (not down
the throat) for several days and it will dis-
appear.
Soft Feet
This is one of the most serious, annoying
troubles kenneled hounds are subject to. It is
generally caused by mange and it is always
safe to treat the feet first for mange with
remedy given elsewhere; then after a few
treatments for mange the pads may be hardened
or indurated by soaking them daily in a strong
decoction of white oak bark with a teaspoonful
of powdered alum added to the quart. If the
pads are worn through to the quick and you
deem it necessary to hunt the hound, cover the
pad well with collodion before casting off, it
will protect the hound through quite a long
day's work.
Canker
Ear canker is a very common disease among
hounds and is indicated by frequent shaking
of the head and rubbing the ear with the paw.
It is divided into two sections, internal and ex-
ternal. The former affects the inside passages
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 107
of the ear causing pain, and the hound in
violently shaking the head for ease makes the
flaps or end of the ears sore which soon become
affected and if not attended to the sores eat
away sections of the ear. A weak solution of
nitrate of silver poured into the ear daily is
good, but it discolors the hair, the hand, and
the clothing of user, and I have found a tea-
spoonful of one part creolin and twenty parts
water poured in the ear daily and manipulated
by the hand, and an hour later the same quan-
tity of powdered borax, equally effective. The
eating sore on the flap or end of the ear can
be similarly treated after having first been
touched lightly with a stick of lunar caustic
along the raw edges.
Rickets
This is a term applied to young, growing
pups with ill-shaped legs, misshapen joints or
the springing or standing over in pastern joints.
It is caused by bad feeding, enfeebled or imma-
ture parents, and generally the lack of suffi-
cient bone-forming material. Pups suffering
from rickets should have an abundance of light,
air and sunshine, given only lime water to
drink, and have phosphate of lime sprinkled
108 THE FOXHOUND
over their food, which should be given them
often and liberally.
Lice
Farm-raised puppies are frequently troubled
with lice and literally eaten up before their
presence is suspected or discovered, the con-
stant scratching and uneasiness being attrib-
uted to fleas. A close and careful examination
is necessary to detect them, as they burrow
almost into the skin. A puppy cannot thrive or
fatten as long as they are present. One vigor-
ous application of the following mixture will
rid them of these pests: Kerosene oil, one
pint; melted lard, one-half pint; spirits of tur-
pentine, one-half gill.
Eyes
Eye troubles are rather common in hounds,
owing to the exposure of the haw of the eye
and the nature of their work in running through
bushes and briars. Keep a bottle of saturated
solution of borax (boracic acid) handy, bathe
the injured member carefully and put a few
drops in the eye. Ulcers or specks frequently
form on the ball of the eye, especially after a
DISEASES AND REMEDIES 109
weakening disease, or when a hound is in poor
condition. Touch the ulcer with a feather or
small camel's hair brush dipped in calomel and
bathe the eye with borax water.
Wounds
Hounds are constantly receiving wounds, a
large percentage of them from barbed-wire
fences. It is, of course, impossible to advise
here on every kind of wound which may come
to readers' dogs, but just a few words on gen-
eral principles. If the wound is a straight one,
the parts should be cleansed and the bleeding
stopped. This should be followed by clipping
the hair close to the wound, then sew the edges
together with sufficient stitches, and finally
cover with wool which has been saturated with
boracic acid, and bandage over securely.
Watch must be kept to see that the surface
of the wound does not heal too quickly and so
enclose pus or matter, which will eventually
find an outlet farther away in the form of an
abscess. Before putting in the stitches make
sure there is no foreign matter in the wound.
If there is any doubt on this point, apply a hot
poultice night and morning until sure. It is
usually necessary to muzzle the dog for a few
110 THE FOXHOUND
days or he will tear off the bandage and pos-
sibly make the wound worse by pulling out the
stitches to allay any irritation. Dogs will as-
sist nature by licking unbandaged wounds.
Punctured wounds should always be exam-
ined minutely for foreign bodies and then
treated as above. In cases where the wound
has a ragged edge it may not be possible to
put in stitches, and there may arise wounds that
can neither be stitched nor bandaged. In such
cases the openings must be bathed with the bo-
racic acid lotion several times a day. It is im-
possible to emphasize too strongly the impor-
tance of removing any foreign body from a
wound, for if such be left in it may cause blood-
poisoning and death.
THE BENCH SHOW
CHAPTER VII
THE BENCH SHOW
PREPARING hounds for the bench show
requires a lot of work and patience on
the part of the handler and a hound with
good, amiable disposition that does not object
to handling. The first thing to be done by
the exhibitor is to thoroughly familiarize him-
self with the scale of points by which hounds
are judged. I was chairman of the committee
that formulated this standard, which has been
universally adopted by all the foxhunting asso-
ciations. (It will be found elsewhere in this
book.)
The hound, being a sporting dog, condition
is everything for exhibition purposes, as excel-
lence in symmetry and formation will be lost
on the judge if condition is bad. A hound is
judged on his apparent fitness to do his duty,
and if loaded with flesh instead of muscle will
surely be set back by the judge if he understands
113
114 THE FOXHOUND
his business. I have when judging them given
many a hound " the gate " for this reason.
Instructions for training should be followed
as nearly as possible, but as there are many
who probably have not such facilities, to them
I say: Give all the exercise you possibly can,
have hound follow you as much as possible.
Rub, knead, and roll all his muscles a half-hour
at a time, and not less than three times a day.
Brush briskly with a stiff brush, and rub off
with soft chamois skin. Clean his teeth thor-
oughly, removing all discolorations. Give sev-
eral good dressings to his coat, with two ounces
oil of tar, one-half pound sulphur in quart of
fish oil, followed by bath next day in tepid
water, using yolks of eggs or milk or soap.
Feed as many eggs as his stomach will stand
without becoming bilious and let him lap a pint
of milk daily.
Teach him to lead kindly with the chain and
to stand perfectly still, with head and neck ex-
tended, feet and legs straight and well under
him; to trot after his leader and to carry a gay
stern. Do not feed for twenty-four hours pre-
vious to judging. A few minutes before tak-
ing into the judging ring, however, give a small
piece of raw beef, say about the size of two
fingers.
THE BENCH SHOW 115
In the ring carry a small piece of fresh meat
concealed in your hand and let him smell it
occasionally; this will inject considerable life
and animation into him that otherwise might
be lacking. While in the ring do not crowd
your dog up close to the judge, but get as far
away as the ring will permit. If he is a good
one, the judge will never overlook him. If the
sawdust in the ring is deep, clean a space that
his feet and toes may be seen. If you do not
succeed in getting his muscles hard and firm,
stomach off, and body devoid of surplus flesh,
forfeit your entrance money and keep him at
home.
When showing on the bench, ascertain the
location of the nearest vacant lot or park to
the exhibition building, and give him a good
long romp of not less than an hour daily. If
accustomed to the " patent biscuits " usually
fed at the bench shows feed on lean beef or
mutton. If these instructions are carried out
faithfully the condition of your dog will remain
good for several weeks; otherwise the close of
the first circuit will find him a physical wreck.
When at home between dates of shows, keep up
his work, even if it be only for a few days.
Accustom him to strangers and strange sights
and by the time you have him in fit condition to
116 THE FOXHOUND
win you will doubtless have ruined a good
hound for field work.
Individual hounds should be taken or sent to
a bench show in a crate. This should have solid
bottoms and ends, with hinged door. The sides
and top should be slatted with good spaces be-
tween, as many dogs en-route to the shows are
annually smothered in hot express cars by hav-
ing merchandise thrown upon and around the
crate. The sides should be solid for a space
of six inches at the bottom to prevent the straw
from falling out. Never send hounds without
a handler. The fair promises of the manage-
ment to have your entries properly cared for
and exhibited are forgotten as soon as the many
duties of the show devolve upon them, and they
are lucky indeed if they are taken from the
bench except while in the show ring.
DONT'S
CHAPTER VIII
dont's
WHILE many of these are a repetition,
appearing in a different form else-
where in this book, they are collected
here for frequent and careful reading and if
adhered to will prove most invaluable in the
conduct of a successful pack and kennel.
Don't breed a valuable stud dog several
times in one season. One service is just as
good, if not better, than half a dozen if given
at the right time.
Don't prevent a bitch that is in whelp from
eating whatever she pleases, though if you find
she has a penchant for filthy matter, carrion,
and other flotsam and jetsam, let her have her
way or, better, give her sulphur in her food.
Don't keep your bitches in whelp chained up
or kenneled continually; they should have
especially the last three weeks before whelping,
plenty of gentle walking exercise every day,
119
120 THE FOXHOUND
Don't neglect to feed your brood bitches
with every food that will strengthen and stim-
ulate the mother in the trying periods of preg-
nancy and while suckling pups. Precipitated
phosphate of lime should be given to the bitch
in her food during the last weeks of preg-
nancy and after whelping, and then to the
puppies until two or three months old. Half
a teaspoonful daily to a pup is sufficient.
Don't, if you can avoid it, keep your bitches
in whelp in kennels or yards where they must
continually jump up on their hind legs in order
to look upon the outer world. Have open
wire or slats for fencing and divisions.
Don't feed cornmeal alone day in and day
out, as many kennelmen unfortunately do. It
is handy to cook and cheap, but its constant use
heats the blood, lowers the system, and eczema
and mange too often follow as a natural con-
sequence. Never feed it alone in hot weather.
Don't allow your very young puppies to run
with your old dogs. Besides the danger from
injury in romping with heavier dogs, there is
also a danger of the older dogs snapping at
the youngsters and giving them a nip that will
disfigure them.
Don't feed liver and lights to your dogs ex-
cept occasionally if you value their health.
DONTS 121
Such stuff may fill an aching void for the time
being, but there is no flesh producing substance
in it. The liver will disarrange the internals
and you may as well feed so much sponge as
the leathery, indigestible lights.
Don't forget the bones. Dogs kept in ken-
nels have not, as a rule, a very merry time of
it at best, and a good big knuckle bone will
serve to while away an odd hour or two, be-
sides cleaning the teeth and inducing a healthy
flow of saliva. But use discretion, avoiding
chicken and small bones.
Don't throw in one bone for two dogs.
Reason obvious. Neither give a bone to bitches
suckling or running with puppies. The mater-
nal instinct is strong, but the mother while
gnawing the bone is not to be depended on
and may give a too venturesome and confiding
puppy an ugly bite.
Don't neglect ventilation in the kennels.
Arrange this so that there is no direct draught
on the dogs. A good plan is to have an open-
ing under the eaves of the kennel and inside
nail a board the size of the aperture but slant-
ing inwards at an angle of forty-five degrees,
so the air is directed to the top of the kennel
first.
Don't feed raw meat to a dog suffering
122 THE FOXHOUND
from diarrhea. Feed starchy foods and rice
water. A good stiff gruel of Hour and water
will stop the complaint in its early stages.
Don't allow the kennel yards to become lit-
tered with manure. Besides being unhealthy
and a source of worms, the manure is a salable
commodity and should be regularly taken up,
dried, and sold to the morocco leather dress-
ers. The bones that accumulate around a ken-
nel can also be disposed of. All these little
things count in the conduct of a large kennel.
Don't feed scraps from the table without
carefully looking them over before doing so.
In the dog's eagerness after dainties he may
swallow a hidden fish bone, chicken bone,
splinter, or other pointed substance that may
cause trouble afterward.
Don't feed highly seasoned messes that
come from the table just because they are
handy and the dog will eat them. It will cost
you less in the long run to feed sound, whole-
some dog food.
Don't use the whip for every mistake your
dog makes. Dogs are not like lions in a cage
to be subdued by a show of force. Talk to
the dog and prove to him by action and expres-
sion that he has done wrong. A dog follows
his master's expression more than the lash.
DONTS 123
Don't lose your temper and kick a dog.
Don't enter a kennel without speaking to
the dogs, and especially so at night or in the
dark. The magic power of the voice may save
you from a bite.
Don't run your dogs after a meal, nor yet
just before it. How would you like to run half
a mile after a good meal?
Don't think because you know what you wish
your dog to do that he can grasp your mean-
ing offhand and without effort on your part;
dogs are intelligent, but they are not mind-
readers.
Don't wash puppies when they are very
young, unless they happen to get into some filth
that cannot be removed when dry by the brush.
Don't wash puppies until at least six months
old. Grooming and " elbow grease " every
day will improve the coat and do more good
than washing.
Don't let your pups or pup get into the habit
of barking violently, a most tiresome trick,
caused by idleness and not enough outdoor
exercise, and frequently hereditary.
Don't administer liquids to dogs while the
mouth is open. Close the mouth tightly, hold
the hand over his nose and lower jaw, and by
making a funnel of the inside lips, keep the
124 THE FOXHOUND
head erect and pour the liquid through the
teeth.
Don't give pills in a careless manner. If
you do, the dog will slip it under his tongue
and spit it out when you are not watching.
Drop the pill as far behind the tongue as pos-
sible. With two fingers push it farther back.
In his efforts to expel it, it will slip down the
throat.
Don't fail to give your dog plenty of good,
healthy exercise every day. Lack of it will
invariably cause indigestion, constipation, and
various other complaints that can easily be
avoided by carefully observing this precaution.
Don't deprive a sick dog of anything that he
will eat. In many cases it is necessary to tempt
him to eat so as to preserve his strength.
Afterwards you can gradually change the diet
to food that will prove more suitable for him.
Don't overlook the fact that a thorough dis-
infection of a kennel is absolutely essential to
insure perfect health among dogs.
Frequently whitewashing of woodwork de-
stroys offensive odors, insects, and vermin.
The ground around the Kennel should be swept
every day or so and once a week sprinkled
with a solution of crude carbolic acid and
water.
APPENDIX
GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL TERMS,
AS APPLIED TO THE HOUND
Apple-headed. Skull round instead of flat
on top.
Beefy. Big, beefy hindquarters.
Blaze. A white mark up the face.
Brush. The hair on tail of a hound.
Cat-foot. A short, round foot, with the
knuckles high and well developed; like a cat's,
short, round, and compact.
Chaps or Chops. The pendulous lips.
Character. The combination of points
contributing to the whole make-up and giving
to a hound that which is desired in his par-
ticular variety.
Cloddy or Cobby. Thick-set, short-coupled,
and low in stature.
Couplings. The length or space between
the tops of the shoulder-blades and tops of the
hip-joints, or buckle-bones. A hound is accord-
ingly spoken of as long or short " in the coup-
lings."
127
128 THE FOXHOUND
Cow-hocked. The hocks turning inward;
hocks that turn in, like those of a cow.
Deep in Brisket. Deep in chest; deep
from withers to point where chest and brisket
meet.
Dew-claws. The extra claws found occa-
sionally on the legs or superfluous claw inside
the hind leg just above the foot.
Dish-face. This term describes hound
whose nasal bone is higher at the nose than
at the top.
Domed Skull. Round skull.
Flat-sided. Flat in ribs ; opposite of well-
ribbed up.
Flews. The chops, or overhanging lips of
the upper jaw. The term is chiefly applied to
hounds or other deep-mouthed dogs. The
lips.
Hare-foot. Foot like that of a hare, long
and narrow. '
Haw. The red inside eyelid, usually hid-
den; the red membrane inside the lower eye-
lid.
Shelly. Too narrow and light in body.
Sickle-tail. A tail forming a semi-circle,
like a sickle.
Snipy. Too pointed in muzzle.
Sorry. Worthless.
GLOSSARY 129
Splay Foot. A flat, awkward foot, usually
turned outward; the opposite of " cat-foot.'*
Stern. The tail.
Stop. The indentation across the skull be-
tween the forehead and nose.
Style. Showy, spirited, or gay demeanor.
Throatiness. Overmuch loose skin or
flesh under throat.
Timber. Bone.
Tricolor. Black, tan, and white.
Tucked-up. Tucked-up loin, as in the
Greyhound.
Wall-eye. A blue mottled eye.
Wrinkle. Loose-folding skin over the
skull.
FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL
RUNNING RULES AND REGULATIONS
National Foxhunt ers' Association
Revised November, 1902, by W. S. Walker,
Leland Hathaway and Roger Williams, Com-
mittee, and since amended.
The stakes and the order of their running
shall be as follows:
The Derby Stake, for hounds under 18
months of age.
The entrance fee to the Derby Stake to be
$3.00. All-Age Stake, $4.00; the All-Age
Stake to be divided into three classes, as fol-
lows: Speed and driving, hunting and trail-
ing, and endurance. First, second, third prizes
to be awarded in each class, and letters of com-
mendation in the discretion of the judges.
But in the Derby only first, second, third and
letters of commendation.
Upon the winner of the highest general aver-
130
FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL 131
age in the three classes of the Champion Stake
will be conferred the title of champion.
Rule I. — No nominations can be taken or
entries made except by or through a subscriber,
who shall be a member of the Club, and
thereby becomes responsible for said entry.
Rule 2. — The entrance money must in all
cases accompany the nomination. No entry
shall be valid until fee is paid in full.
Rule 3. — The number of entries from any
one kennel or pack shall be limited to four.
The age of a dog shall be calculated up to and
inclusive of the first day of the hunt.
Rule 4 (a). — Subscribers must file with the
secretary the names of hounds they intend
starting on or before 12 o'clock M. of the day
preceding the trial. Every hound entered at
any trial held under these rules must be the
bona fide property of the person making such
entry. The entries must clearly identify the
dog by name, and if known, its date of birth,
name of its sire and dam, and the name of its
breeder; should any of these particulars be un-
known to the subscriber, it must be so stated
on the entry blank. Every hound entered must
be registered or listed in the N. F. H. Associa-
tion Stud Book, and the penalty for non-regis-
tration or listing is disqualification and the for-
132 THE FOXHOUND
feiture of entry fee and prizes won. Any sub-
scriber taking an entry in a stake and not pre-
fixing the word " names " to a hound which is
not his own property, shall forfeit the hound's
chance of the stake. He shall also deliver in
writing to the secretary the name of the bona
fide owner of the hound named by him.
B. (i) — A hound to be eligible to registra-
tion must have a full pedigree for three gener-
ations, or in the absence of such pedigree must
have been a first-prize winner at a foxhound
field trial recognized by the National Foxhunt-
ers' Association. If less than three generations
only can be given, a hound can be " listed " in
the Stud Book upon payment of 25 cents, and a
certificate of same will be issued. Such listings
will be published in the Stud Book.
(2) — No change in a hound's name shall be
permitted after it has been published in the
Stud Book.
(3) — A hound may be re-registered upon
change of ownership, but a new number shall
not be given.
(4) — The breeder of a hound is the indi-
vidual or partnership owning or leasing the
dam at the time of her being bred.
Rule 4. — If any subscriber should enter a
hound by a different name from that in which
FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL 133
it has last run in public, without also adding
the late name of the hound, said hound shall
be disqualified. A castrated dog or spayed
bitch shall be barred. Any such running shall
forfeit any and all prizes won.
Rule 6. — Objections or protests to any
hound must be made in writing to the directors
and accompanied by a deposit of $10, which
shall be forfeited if the objection is not sus-
tained by the directors; should an objection be
made which cannot at the time be substantiated
or disproved, the hound may be allowed to run
under the protest, the Club retaining his win-
nings until the objection is either withdrawn or
decided. Should he be disqualified, the others
shall be placed the same as if he had not been
in the stake.
Rule 7. — The directors may refuse any entry
they may think proper to exclude ; and no person
who has misconducted himself in any manner
in connection with the N. F. H. A. shall be
allowed to compete in any trials that may be
held under the auspices of this Club.
Rule 8. — No entry can be withdrawn with-
out the consent of the directors. Parties so
offending may be debarred at future trials
or penalized, at the discretion of the di-
rectors,
134 THE FOXHOUND
Rule 9. — Any owner, his handler, or his
deputy may hunt a hound, but it must be one
or the other. When the owner has deputed
another person to handle for him he must not
interfere in any manner, nor will he be allowed
to ride to hounds.
Rule 10. — Riders to hounds shall be limited
to the handlers with entries in that particular
hunt, the judges, the M. F. H., flag steward,
and members of the press who obtain such per-
mission from the directors.
Rule 11. — The M. F. H. shall give the han-
dlers any information they need as to direc-
tion to enable them to keep within reasonable
distance of the hounds. He shall instruct han-
dlers and outsiders not to converse with, or in
the hearing of the judges, about the work done
or merits or demerits of any of the competing
hounds. It shall be his duty to report any and
all infringements of this rule to the directors.
The offender shall be subject to a fine or expul-
sion from the grounds at the discretion of the
directors. He shall ride to the hounds, and
shall direct the handlers and assist the judges
in every proper way possible. It shall be his
duty to notify, by conspicuously posting in
camp the night before, the hour and place of
starting on the following day. He shall also
FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL 135
call the hunt off. He shall carefully examine
all hounds entered, and if any are affected with
contagious diseases or any bitches in season he
shall promptly report same in writing to the
directors, who shall officially notify owners or
nominators and bar same from the trial. He
shall designate by what marking, device or
colors each entry shall be marked to aid the
judges in disinguishing them, and no dog shall
be marked otherwise than as he directs. He
shall furnish the judges each day with a list of
the dogs running, and distinctive markings.
Rule 12. — The field stewards, where practi-
cable, should be sworn in as deputy sheriffs.
They shall be held responsible for the proper
conduct and behavior of spectators and partici-
pants, and will see that spectators are kept at
a proper distance from and do not interfere
with the hounds participating. They shall also
see that there is no destruction of property.
They shall report to the directors or M. F. H.
throughout the day for instructions.
Rule 13. — The flag steward shall, if possi-
ble, keep both hounds and spectators in view,
and by a series of flag signals notify the field
stewards of the general direction of the
hounds. He shall act as assistant to M. F. H.
in directing and calling off the hounds.
136 THE FOXHOUND
Rule 14. — There shall not be less than three
or more than five judges. They must not be
interested directly or indirectly in any of the
hounds, and must be hunters of large foxhunt-
ing experience, and capable of closely follow-
ing the hounds. They shall be subject to the
general rules of the Club and report for duty
each day to the directors. They shall have the .
fullest discretion, consistent with the rules, in
determining the merits of the hounds, and in
the field shall have the ordering off of the
hunt. Should an appointed judge be unable
to fulfill his engagement or become disabled,
the directors shall have the power to fill the
vacancy, or not, in such manner as they
see fit.
ORule 1 5. — Judges are requested to select a
reserve award, in case one of the winners
should be disqualified, that the prize may not
fail of being awarded. The judges shall con-
tinue the running during the day and from day
to day until a majority of them are satisfied.
Rule 1 6.; — Their final decisions shall be ren-
dered in writing to the directors; they cannot
recall or reverse them on any pretext whatever
after being so given. If any person openly im-r
pugns the decision or action of a judge on the
grounds, or in the camp, he may be fined in
FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL 137
the discretion of the directors not more than
$25 or less than $5.
Rule 17. — No person shall attempt to influ-
ence a judge's decision either before, during,
or after a race. If a party so offending is £
member, he shall be expelled from the Club; if
otherwise, he shall be fined and sent from the
meeting.
Rule 18. — The handler hunting a dog may
speak to and urge him on in a proper manner,
but he shall be cautioned twice by the judges
or M. F. H. for making unnecesary noise or
disorderly conduct, and if after such a caution
he continues to so offend, he may be ordered
from the field. Should a handler ride over or
purposely interfere with an opponent's hound,
the owner of the hound so ridden over or inter-
fered with shall have the privilege of saying
which one of the offender's entries shall be
barred, or shall have the option of selecting at
the end of that particular hunt one of the of-
fender's hounds, which will remain in the stake,
and he shall be entitled to claim one-half of
said hound's winnings, if any.
Rule 19. — A hound that fails by action or
note to work fairly on a trail, and runs " cun-
ning M to get an advantage, shall be discounted
in the discretion of the judges.
138 THE FOXHOUND
Rule 20. — A hound left on " a jump " or
thrown out " on a loss taken off," shall not be
penalized if it works diligently to "get in**
and succeeds in a reasonable time.
Rule 21. — A hound "thrown out" and
41 coming in " and refusing to hunt or " go in "
to others in full cry, shall be marked and
barred.
Rule 22. — Should the pack become sepa-
rated the judges must divide and carefully note
the work of each pack, and immediately upon
re-assembling individually report work noted.
Rule 23. — A hound lost during a run and
not returning until the itriajs are partly ior
wholly finished, shall be given credit, provided
the judges are satisfied that he has been run-
ning. Testimony of interested parties not to
be taken on this point.
Rule 24. — Any person allowing a hound
to get loose and join in the chase shall be fined
not less than $5. If the loose hound belongs
to an owner of one engaged in that particular
chase, such owner shall be fined in the discre-
tion of the directors, unless he can prove to
the satisfaction of the directors that he had
not been able to take up his hound after finish-
ing his last chase. The fact, however, of other
FOXHOUND FIELD TRIAL 139
hounds joining in shall not necessarily end the
cll3.SC
Rule 25.— No hound shall be eligible to com-
pete in trials that has been hunted upon the
grounds where the trials are to be held within
six months preceding the date of the trials.
Rule 26.— The entries in a stake shall be
numbered and divided into packs, in the discre-
tion of the directors; said division shall be
made by drawing lots under supervision of the
judges. When possible, a kennel or owner
should not have more than one hound in each
pack. After the first round the judges will
order such hounds as they elect to run in the
following rounds. In the general average the
judges shall make their decision upon the uni-
form principle that the hound showing the most
aptitude and ability to find, trail and catch a
fox is the winner. The principle is to be car-
ried out by estimating the work done upon the
following scale of points:
1 — Speed and Driving 5°
2 — Speed and Driving 35
3 — Speed and Driving 15
I— Hunting and Trailing 5°
140 THE FOXHOUND
2 — Hunting and Trailing. ... 35
3 — Hunting and Trailing. ... 15
1 — Endurance 50
2 — Endurance 35
3 — Endurance 15
THE END
OUTINQ PUBLISHING COMPANY — NEW YORK
©U3UM <Z\
U A MnD A AV C The ^books for out-.
nAlll/DUUJVlJ door work and play,^
Each book deals with a separate subject and deals
■with it thoroughly. If you want to know anything
about Airedales an OUTING HANDBOOK gives you
all you want. If it's Apple Growing, another OUTING
HANDBOOK meets your need. The Fisherman, the
Camper, the Poultry-raiser, the Automobilist, the
Horseman, all varieties of out-door enthusiasts, will
find separate volumes for their separate interests.
There is no waste space.
The series is based on the plan of one subject to
a book and each book complete. The authors are ex-
perts. \ Each book has been specially prepared for this
series and all are published in uniform style, flexible
cloth binding.
Two hundred titles are projected. The series cov-
ers all phases of outdoor life, from bee-keeping to big-
game shooting. Among the books now ready or in
preparation are those described on the following pages.
If you wish for any information on any outdoor
subject not treated in one of the following books write
Outing Publishing Co., 141-145 West 36th St., New
York.
PRICE EIGHTY CENTS PER VOL. NET,
POSTAGE 5c. EXTRA i
THE NUMBERS MAKE ORDERING EASY.
1. EXERCISE AND HEALTH, by Dr.
Woods Hutchinson. Dr. Hutchinson takes the com-
mon-sense view that the greatest problem in exercise
for most of us is to get enough of the right kind. The
greatest error in exercise is not to take enough, and
the greatest danger in athletics is in giving them up.
He writes in a direct matter-of-fact manner with an
avoidance of medical terms, and a strong emphasis on
the rational, all-around manner of living that is best
calculated to bring a man to a ripe old age with little
illness or consciousness of bodily weakness.
17
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY — NEW YORK
2. CAMP COOKERY, by Horace Kephart.
"The less a man carries in his pack the more he must
carry in his head," says Mr. Kephart. This book tells
what a man should carry in both pack and head. Every
step is traced — the selection of provisions and utensils,
with the kind and quantity of each, the preparation of
game, the building of fires, the cooking of every con-
ceivable kind of food that the camp outfit or woods,
fields or streams may provide — even to the making of
desserts. Every recipe is the result of hard practice
and long experience.
3. BACKWOODS SURGERY AND
MEDICINE, by Charles S. Moody, M. D. a
handy book for the prudent lover of the woods who
doesn't expect to be ill but believes in being on the
safe side. Common-sense methods for the treatment
of the ordinary wounds and accidents are described —
setting a broken limb, reducing a dislocation, caring
for burns, cuts, etc. Practical remedies for camp dis-
eases are recommended, as well as the ordinary indica-
tions of the most probable ailments. Includes a list
of the necessary medical and surgical supplies.
4. APPLE GROWING, by M. C. Burritt.
The various problems confronting the apple grower,
from the preparation of the soil and the planting of the
trees to the marketing of the fruit, are discussed in de-
tail by the author.
5. THE AIREDALE, by Williams Haynes.
The book opens with a short chapter on the origin and
development of the Airedale, as a distinctive breed.
The author then takes up the problems of type as
bearing on the selection of the dog, breeding, training
and use. The book is designed for the non-profes-
sional dog fancier, who wishes common sense advice
which does not involve elaborate preparations or ex-
penditure. Chapters are included on the care of the
dog in the kennel and simple remedies for ordinary
diseases.
18
OUTING PUBLISBINO COMPANY — NEW YORK
6. THE AUTOMOBILE — Its Selection,
Care and Use, by Robert Sloss. This is a plain,
practical discussion of the things that every man needs
to know if he is to buy the right car and get the most
out of it. The various details of operation and care
are given in simple, intelligent terms. From it the
car owner can easily learn the mechanism of his motor
and the art of locating motor trouble, as well as how to
use his car for the greatest pleasure.
7. FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT,
by Samuel G. Camp. A complete guide to the ang-
ler buying a new outfit. Every detail of the fishing kit
of the freshwater angler is described, from rodtip to
creel, and clothing. Special emphasis is laid on out-
fitting for fly fishing, but full instruction is also given
to the man who wants to catch pickerel, pike, muskel-
lunget, lake-trout, bass and other freshwater game
fishes. The approved method of selecting and testing
the various rods, lines, leaders, etc., is described.
8. THE FINE ART OF FISHING, by
Samuel G. Camp. Combine the pleasure of catching
fish with the gratification of following the sport in the
most approved manner. The suggestions offered are
helpful to beginner and expert anglers. The range of
fish and fishing conditions covered is wide and includes
such subjects as "Casting Fine and Far Off," "Strip-
Casting for Bass," "Fishing for Mountain Trout" and
"Autumn Fishing for Lake Trout." The book is per-
vaded with a spirit of love for the streamside and the
out-doors generally which the genuine angler will ap-
preciate. A companion book to "Fishing Kits and
Equipment."
9. THE HORSE— Its Breeding, Care and
Use, by David Buffum. Mr. Buffum takes up the
common, every-dav problems of the ordinary horse-
users, such as feeding, shoeing, simple home remedies,
breaking and the cure for various equine vices. An
important chapter is that tracing the influx of Arabian
blood into the English and American horses and its
value and limitations. A distinctly sensible book for the
sensible man who wishes to know how he can improve
his horses and his horsemanship at the same time,
19
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY — NEW YORK
10. THE MOTOR BOAT— Its Selection,
Care and Use, by H. W. Slauson. The intending
purchaser is advised as to the type of motor boat best
suited to his particular needs and how to keep it in run-
ning condition after purchased.
11. OUTDOOR SIGNALLING, by Elbert
Wells. Mr. Wells has perfected a method of signall-
ing by means of wigwag, light, smoke, or whistle which
is as simple as it is effective. The fundamental prin-
ciple can be learned in ten minutes and its application
is far easier than that of any other code now in use.
12. TRACKS AND TRACKING, by Josef
Brunner. After twenty years of patient study and
practical experience, Mr. Brunner can, from his intimate
knowledge, speak with authority on this subject.
"Tracks and Tracking" shows how to follow intelli-
gently even the most intricate animal or bird tracks;
how to interpret tracks of wild game and decipher the
many tell-tale signs of the chase that would otherwise
pass unnoticed; to tell from the footprints the name,
sex, speed, direction, whether and how wounded, and
many other things about wild animals and birds.
13. WING AND TRAP-SHOOTING, by
Charles Askins. Contains a full discussion of the var-
ious methods, such as snap-shooting, swing and half-
swing, discusses the flight of birds with reference to
the gunner's problem of lead and range and makes
special application of the various points to the different
birds commonly shot in this country. A chapter is in-
cluded on trap shooting and the book closes with a
forceful and common-sense presentation of the etiquette
of the field.
14. PROFITABLE BREEDS OF POUL-.
TRY, by Arthur S. Wheeler. Mr. Wheeler dis-'
cusses from personal experience the best-known general
purpose breeds. Advice is given from the standpoint of
the man who desires results in eggs and stock rather
than in specimens for exhibition. In addition to a care-
ful analysis of stock — good and bad — and some conclu-
sions regarding housing and management, the author
writes in detail regarding Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes,
Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds, etc.
20
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY-; NEW YORK
15. RIFLES AND RIFLE SHOOTING,
by Charles Askins. A practical manual describing
various makes and mechanisms, in addition to discuss-
ing in detail the range and limitations in the use of
the rifle. Treats on the every style and make of rifle
as well as their use. Every type of rifle is discussed so
that the book is complete in every detail.
16. SPORTING FIREARMS, by Horace
Kephart. This book is the result of painstaking tests
and experiments. Practically nothing is taken for
granted. Part I deals with the rifle, and Part II with
the shotgun. The man seeking guidance in the selec-
tion and use of small firearms, as well as the advanced
student of the subject, will receive an unusual amount
of assistance from this work.
17. THE YACHTSMAN'S HANDBOOK,
by Herbert L. Stone. The author and compiler of
this work is the editor of "Yachting." He treats in
simple language of the many problems confronting the
amateur sailor and motor boatman. Handling ground
tackle, handling lines, taking soundings, the use of the
lead line, care and use of sails, yachting etiquette, are
all given careful attention. Some light is thrown upon
the operation of the gasoline motor, and suggestions
are made for the avoidance of engine troubles.
18. SCOTTISH AND IRISH TERRIERS,
by Williams Haynes. This is a companion book to
'The Airedale," and deals with the history and develop-
ment of both breeds. For the owner of the dog, valu-
able information is given as to the use of the terriers,
their treatment in health, their treatment when sick, the
principles of dog breeding, and dog shows and rules.
19. NAVIGATION FOR THE AMA-
TEUR, by Capt. E. T. Morton. A short treatise
on the simpler methods of finding position at sea by
the observation of the sun's altitude and the use of the
sextant and chronometer. It is arranged especially for
yachtsmen and amateurs who wish to know the simpler
formulae for the necessary navigation involved in tak-
ing a boat anywhere off shore. Illustrated.
21
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY-* NEW YORK
20. OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY, by
Julian A. Dimock. A solution of all the problems in
camera work out-of-doors. The various subjects dealt
with are: The Camera — Lens and Plates — Light and
Exposure — Development — Prints and Printing, etc.
21. PACKING AND PORTAGING, by
Dillon Wallace. Mr. Wallace has brought together
in one volume all the valuable information on the differ-
ent ways of making and carrying the different kinds
of packs. The ground covered ranges from man-
gacking to horse-packing, from the use of the tump
ne to throwing the diamond hitch.
22. THE BULL TERRIER, by Williams
Haynes. This is a companion book to "The Airedale"
and "Scottish and Irish Terriers" by the same author.
Its greatest usefulness is as a guide to the dog owner
who wishes to be his own kennel manager. A full ac-
count of the development of the breed is given with a
description of best types and standards. Recommen-
dations for the care of the dog in health or sickness are
included.
23. THE FOX TERRIER, by Williams
Haynes. As in his other books on the terrier, Mr.
Haynes takes up the origin and history of the breed, its
types and standards, and the more exclusive representa-
tives down to the present time. Training the Fox Ter-
rier—His Care and Kenneling in Sickness and Health—
and the Various Uses to Which He Can Be Put— are
among the phases handled.
24. SUBURBAN GARDENS, by Grace
Tabor. Illustrated with diagrams. The author re-
gards the house and grounds as a complete unit and
shows how the best results may be obtained by carrying
the reader in detail through the various phases of de-
signing the garden, with the levels and contours neces-
sary, laying out the walks and paths, planning and plac-
ing the arbors, summer houses, seats, etc., and selecting
and placing trees, shrubs, vines and flowers. Ideal plans
for plots of various sizes are appended, as well as sug-
gestions for correcting mistakes that have been made
through "starting wrong."
22
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY --NEW YORK
25. FISHING WITH FLOATING FLIES,
by Samuel G. Camp. This is an art that is compara-
tively new in this country although English anglers
have used the dry fly for generations. Mr. Camp has
given the matter special study and is one of the few
American anglers who really understands the matter
from the selection of the outfit to the landing of the
■ficVi
26. THE GASOLINE MOTOR, by Harold
Whiting Slauson. Deals with the practical problems
of motor operation. The standpoint is that of the man
who wishes to know how and why gasoline generates
power and something about the various types. De-
scribes in detail the different parts of motors and the
faults to which they are liable. Also gives full direc-
tions as to repair and upkeep.
27. ICE BOATING, by H. L. Stone. Illus-
trated with diagrams. Here have been brought to-
gether all the available information on the organization
and history of ice-boating, the building of the various
types of ice yachts, from the small 15 footer to the
600-foot racer, together with detailed plans and specifi-
cations. Full information is also given to meet the
needs of those who wish to be able to build and sail
their own boats but are handicapped by the lack of
proper knowledge as to just the points described m
this volume. „ „ __.,
28. MODERN GOLF, by Harold H. Hil-
ton. Mr. Hilton is the only man who has ever held
the amateur championship of Great Britain and the
United States in the same year. This book gives the
reader sound advice, not so much on the mere swing-
ing of the clubs as in the actual playing of the game,
with all the factors that enter into it. He discusses
the use of wooden clubs, the choice of clubs, the art
of approaching, and kindred subjects.
29. INTENSIVE FARMING, by L. C.
Corbett. A discussion of the meaning, method and
value of intensive methods in agriculture. This book is
designed for the convenience of practical farmers who
find themselves under the necessity of makmg a living
out of high-priced land.
23
OUTINO PUBLISHING COMPANY — NEW TORE
30. PRACTICAL DOG BREEDING, by
Williams Haynes. This is a companion volume to
PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, described below. It
goes at length into the fundamental questions of breed-
ing, such as selection of types on both sides, the per-
petuation of desirable, and the elimination of undesir-
able qualities, the value of prepotency in building up a
desired breed, etc.
31. PRACTICAL DOG KEEPING, by
Williams Haynes. Mr. Haynes is well known to the
readers of the OUTING HANDBOOKS as the author
of books on the terriers. His new book is somewhat
more ambitious in that it carries him into the general
field of selection of breeds, the buying and selling of
dogs, the care of dogs in kennels, handling in bench
shows and field trials, and at considerable length into
such subjects as food and feeding, exercise and groom-
ing, disease, etc.
32. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN, by R.
L. Watts. This book is designed for the small grower
with a limited plot of ground. The reader is told what
types of vegetables to select, the manner of planting and
cultivation, and the returns that may be expected.
33. AMATEUR RODMAKING, by Perry
D. Frazer, Illustrated. A practical manual for all
those who want to make their own rod and fittings. ^ It
contains a review of fishing rod history, a discussion
of materials, a list of the tools needed, description of
the method to be followed in making all kinds of rods,
including fly-casting, bait-fishing, salmon, etc., with
full instructions for winding, varnishing, etc.
34. PISTOL AND REVOLVER SHOOT-
ING, by A. L. A. Himmelwright. A new and re-
vised edition of a work that has already achieved prom-
inence as an accepted authority on the use of the hand
gun. Full instructions are given in the use of both
revolver and target pistol, including shooting position,
grip, position of arm, etc. The book is thoroughly il-
lustrated with diagrams and photographs and includes
the rules of the United States Revolver Association and
a list of the records made both here and abroad.
24
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY — NEW YORK
35. PIGEON RAISING, by Alice Mac-
Leod. This is a book for both fancier and market
breeder. Full descriptions are given of the construc-
tion of houses, the care of the birds, preparation for
market, and shipment, of the various breeds with their
markings and characteristics.
36. FISHING TACKLE, by Perry D.
Frazer. Illustrated. It tells all the fisherman needs
to know about making and overhauling his tackle dur-
ing the closed season and gives full instructions for
tournament casting and fly-casting.
37. AUTOMOBILE OPERATION, by A.
L. Brennan, Jr. Illustrated. Tells the plain truth
about the little things that every motorist wants to
know about his own car. Do you want to cure ignition
troubles? Overhaul and adjust your carbureter? Keep
your transmission in order? Get the maximum wear
out of your tires? Do any other of the hundred and
one things that are necessary for the greatest use and
enjoyment of your car? Then you will find this book
useful.
38. THE FOX HOUND, by Roger D. Wil-
liams. Author of "Horse and Hound." Illustrat-
ed. The author is the foremost authority on fox hunt-
ing and foxhounds in America. For years he has kept
the foxhound studbook, and is the final source of infor-
mation on all disputed points relating to this breed.
His book discusses types, methods of training, kennel-
ing, diseases and all the other practical points relating
to the use and care of the hound, etc.
39. SALT WATER GAME FISHING, by
Charles F. Holder. Mr. Holder covers the whole
field of his subject devoting a chapter each to such fish
as the tuna, the tarpon, amberjack, the sail fish, the yel-
low-tail, the king fish, the barracuda, the sea bass and
the small game fishes of Florida, Porto Rico, the Pa-
cific Coast, Hawaii, and the Philippines. The habits
and habitats of the fish are described, together with the
methods and tackle for taking them. Illustrated.
25
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY^- NEW YORK
40. WINTER CAMPING, by Warwick S.
Carpenter. A book that meets the increasing interest
in outdoor life in the cold weather. Mr. Carpenter dis-
cusses such subjects as shelter equipment, clothing,
food, snowshoeing, skiing, and winter hunting, wild life
in winter woods, care of frost bite, etc. Illustrated.
41. ^WOODCRAFT FOR WOMEN, by
Mrs. Kathrene Gedney Pinkerton. The author has
spent several years in the Canadian woods and is thor-
oughly familiar with the subject from both the mascu-
line and feminine point of view. She gives sound tips
on clothing, camping outfit, food supplies, and methods,
by which the woman may adjust herself to the outdoor
environment.
42. *SMALL BOAT BUILDING, by H.
W. Patterson. Illustrated with diagrams and plans.
A working manual for the man who wants to be his
own designer and builder. Detail descriptions and
drawings are given showing the various stages in the
building, and chapters are included on proper materials
and details.
43. READING THE WEATHER, by T.
Morris Longstreth. The author gives in detail the
various recognized signs for different kinds of weather
based primarily on the material worked out by the Gov-
ernment Weather Bureau, gives rules by which the char-
acter and duration of storms may be estimated, and
gives instructions for sensible use of the barometer.
He also gives useful information as to various weather
averages for different parts of the country, at different
times of the year, and furnishes sound advice for the
camper, sportsman, and others who wish to know what
they may expect in the weather line.
44. BOXING, by D. C. Hutchison. Practi-
cal instruction for men who wish to learn the first steps
in the manly art. Mr. Hutchison writes from long per-
sonal experience as an amateur boxer and as a trainer
of other amateurs. His instructions are accompanied
with full diagrams showing the approved blows and
guards. He also gives full directions for training for
condition without danger of going stale from overtrain*
ing. It is essentially a book for the amateur.
26
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY — NEW YORK
45. TENNIS TACTICS, by Raymond D.
Little. Out of his store of experience as a successful
tennis player, Mr. Little has written this practical guide
for those who wish to know how real tennis is played.
He tells the reader when and how to take the net, dis-
cusses the relative merits of the back-court and volley-
ing game and how their proper balance may be achiev-
ed; analyzes and appraises the twist service, shows the
fundamental necessities of successful doubles play.
46. HOW TO PLAY TENNIS, by James
Burns. This book gives simple, direct instruction from
the professional standpoint on the fundamentals of the
game. It tells the reader how to hold his racket, how
to swing it for the various strokes, how to stand and
how to cover the court. These points are illustrated
with photographs and diagrams. The author also illus-
trates the course of the ball in the progress of play and
Soints out the positions of greatest safety and greatest
anger.
47. TAXIDERMY, by Leon L. Pray. Il-
lustrated with diagrams. Being a practical taxidermist,
the author at once goes into the question of selection
of tools and materials for the various stages of skin-
ning, stuffing and mounting. The subjects whose hand-
ling is described are, for the most part, the every-day
ones, such as ordinary birds, small mammals, etc., al-
though adequate instructions are included for mounting
big game specimens, as well as the preliminary care of
skins in hot climates. Full diagrams accompany the
text.
48. THE CANOE— ITS SELECTION,
CARE AND USE, by Robert E. Pinkerton. Il-
lustrated with photographs. With proper use the canoe
is one of the safest crafts that floats. Mr. Pinkerton
tells how that state of safety may be obtained. He gives
full instructions for the selection of the right canoe for
each particular purpose or set of conditions. Then he
tells how it should be used in order to secure the maxi-
mum of safety, comfort and usefulness. His own lesson
was learned among the Indians of Canada, where pad-
dling is a high art, and the use of the canoe almost as
much a matter of course as the wearing of moccasins.
2?
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY — NEW TORE
49. HORSE PACKING, by Charles J.
Post. Illustrated with diagrams. This is a complete
description of the hitches, knots, and apparatus used in
making and carrying loads of various kinds on horse-
back. Its basis is the methods followed in the West
and in the American Army. The diagrams are full and
detailed, giving the various hitches and knots at each
of the important stages so that even the novice can
follow and use them. It is the only book ever pub-
lished on this subject of which this could be said. Full
description is given of the ideal pack animal, as well as
a catalogue of the diseases and injuries to which such
animals are subject.
50. ^LEARNING TO SWIM, by L. de B.
Handley. Illustrated. Constructed especially for the
beginner who has no knowledge of the first steps. Ex-
plains the formation of the strokes, how to acquire con-
fidence in the water and gives full details as to the var-
ious methods, including those used by experts and rac-
ing swimmers.
51. *SMALL BOAT NAVIGATION, by
Lieut. Com. F. W. Sterling, U. S. N. Retired.
Illustrated with diagrams. A complete description of
the instruments and methods necessary in navigating
small boats in pilot waters, on soundings, and off shore.
Describes the taking of sights for position, the running
of courses, taking soundings, using the chart, plotting
compass courses, etc. Several chapters are given over
to the seamanship side of navigation, explaining the
handling of small boats under various conditions.
52. *TOURING AFOOT, by Dj\ C. P.
Fordyce. Illustrated. This book is designed to
meet the growing interest in walking trips and covers
the whole field of outfit and method for trips of varying
length. Various standard camping devices are de-
scribed and outfits are prescribed for all conditions.
It is based on the assumption that the reader will want
to carry on his own back everything that he requires
for the trip.
28
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY — NEW YORK
53. THE MARINE MOTOR, by Lieut.
Com. F. W. Sterling, U. S. N. (Ret.). Illustrated
with diagrams. This book is the product of a wide ex-
perience on the engineering staff of the United States
Navy. It gives careful descriptions of the various
parts of the marine motor, their relation to the whole
and their method of operation; it also describes the
commoner troubles and suggests remedies. The prin-
cipal types of engines are described in detail with dia-
grams. The object is primarily to give the novice a
good working knowledge of his engine, its operation,
and care.
54. *THE BEGINNER'S BEE BOOK, by
Frank C. Pellett. Illustrated. This book is design-
ed primarily for the small scale bee farmer. It discusses
the different varieties of bees and their adaptability to
different conditions, the construction of hives, care and
feeding at various times of the year, handling of bees,
and the types of locations and feed most suitable for
bee culture.
55. *THE POINTER, by Williams Haynes.
Contains chapters on the history and development of
the breed, selection of dog, breeding, kenneling, and
training. Also contains information on common sense
remedies for ordinary diseases.
56. *THE SETTER, by Williams Haynes.
The author takes up the origin and history of the breed,
its development, breeding, kenneling, and training. He
also discusses the various diseases to which they are
subject and treatment therefor.
57. ^PRACTICAL BAIT CASTING, by
Larry St. John. Illustrated. This book deals with
tackle and methods used in catching black bass. It is
based upon a wide and varied experience in the middle
West, where more bass fishing is done than in any
other part of the country.
Webstar Farr: nary Medicine
Cum; iary Medicine at.
Tufts Uni
20G . d Road
North Grafton, MA 01538
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