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Full text of "From Benguella to the territory of Yacca. Description of a journey into Central and West Africa. Comprising narratives, adventures, and important surveys of the sources of the rivers Cunene, Cubango, Luando, Cuanza, and Cuango, and of great part of the course of the two latter; together with the discovery of the rivers Hamba, Cauali, Sussa, and Cugho, and a detailed account of the territories of Quiteca N'bungo, Sosso, Futa, and Yacca"

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MICHAEL    GRAVES-JOHNSTON 

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P.O.   Box  532.    LONDON   SW9  ODR 

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FEOM    BENGUELLA 


TO    THE 


TERRITORY    OF    YACOA. 


AUG  0  7  1985 

l.fBRARfc* 


LONDON : 

PRINTED    BY    GILBERT   AND   RIVINGTON,    LIMITED, 

ST.  JOHN'S   SQUARE. 


VI 

Gil 

C22X 

FEOM    BENGUELLA 

[v/\AA  t0  the 

TEEEITOEY    OF    YACCA. 


Uctfcviption  of  a  $ounug  into 

CENTRAL   AND   WEST   AEEICA. 


COMPRISING  NARRATIVES,  ADVENTURES,  AND  IMPORTANT  SURVEYS 

OF  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  RIVERS  CUNENE,  CUBANGO,  LITANDO, 

CUANZA,   AND   CUANGO,   AND   OF   GREAT  PART   OF 

THE   COURSE   OF   THE   TWO   LATTER; 

Together  with  the  Discovery  of  the  Rivers  JTamba,    Caua/i,  Sussa,  and 

Cugho,  and  a  detailed  Account  of  the  Territories  of  Qniteca 

N'bungo,  Sosso,  Futa,  and  Yacca. 


BY 

H.  CAPELLO  and  R.  IVENS, 

Officer*  of  the  Royal  Portuguese  Navy* 

EXPEDITION   ORGANIZED   IN   THE    TEARS   1877—1880. 

TRANSLATED    BY 

ALFRED   ELWBS,  Ph.D. 

WITH    MAPS    AND    NUMEROUS    ILLUSTRATIONS. 

IN   TWO    VOLUMES. 
VOL.   II. 

iiontion: 
SAMPSON   LOW,   MARSTON,   SEARLE,    &  RIVINGTON, 

CROWN   BUILDINGS,    188,    FLEET   STREET. 

1882. 
[All  riff  Ids  reserved.] 


IN  RESPECTFUL  REMEMBRANCE 

OF 

JOSE  J.    DE    OLIVEIRA  ANCHIETA, 

THE  ENLIGHTENED,  UNTIRING,  AND  MODEST 

NATURALIST  AND  EXPLORER 

TO    WHOM 

SCIENCE  AND  HUMANITY 

AEE    SO    DEEPLY   INDEBTED 

A  SPECIAL  PAGE  OF  THIS  VOLUME 

CONTAINING   HIS    POETEA1T 

IS    DEVOTED   BY 

THE  EXPLORERS. 


CONTENTS   OF  VOL.  II. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAGE 

Last  day  at  the  fair  and  meditations  under  the  old  sycamores — 
Desertions  and  new  recruits — General  aspect  of  the  country, 
temperature  and  effect  of  humidity — A  native  court  and  a 
cemetery — Sketch  of  an  encampment  on  the  march — Cambolla 
the  jagga — Etiquette  in  the  Banza — The  sova'shat — Exchange 
of  presents — The  banks  of  the  Lui  and  the  baobabs — -An  ex- 
cursion towards  the  Cuango — Difficult  roads  and  dangerous 
currents — The  water-snake  and  fetish  preservatives — Alarm 
caused  by  a  couple  of  leeches — The  jagga  of  the  Bondos  and  four 
salt  lakes — A  sacrifice  to  science — Native  caravans — Prone- 
ness  of  the  Africans  to  trade,  and  what  they  owe  to  it — The 
pest  of  the  woods,  and  an  unpleasant  family  of  ants — Tala- 
Mogongo  ;  its  aspect  and  vegetation — A  lovely  prospect  and 
the  reflections  it  awakened     .......       1 

CHAPTER  II. 

Limits  of  Cassange — Native  justice — Reflections  upon  the  African 
character — The  rise  and  course  of  the  Cambo — The  African 
opium— The  insect  world — Breaking  up  of  the  encampment — 
Capulca  again — Lake  Utamba — Deceptive  medlars — N'Dala 
Samba  and  T'Chica — Jose  do  Telhado  and  mortality  of  the 
Europeans  in  Africa — Cuango  and  Cuanza — Divisional  line  of 
their  waters — Cha-Landu  and  exactions    of  the   petty  sovas 


viii  C 071  tents. 

PAGE 

— The  Ambaquista,  distinctive  features,  habits,  importance, 
fondness  for  scribbling— Ascent  of  the  morroBango — Dr.  Max 
Buchner,  the  German  explorer — A  queer  ecclesiastic — The 
Lu-calla  and  Lianzundo  cataract — Duque  de  Braganca  and  a 
dinner  with  Captain  A.  Silverio     .  .....     24 

CHAPTER  III. 

On  the  tramp  again — The  banks  of  the  Lu-calla  and  a  nice  dispute 
— Cateco,  the  hunter  of  wives — The  Jinga,  its  limits  and  im- 
portance— The  king,  titles  and  residence — Hierarchical  scale 
— Peculiar  mode  of  bestowal  of  property — The  ma-lung  a  and 
quijinga — The  Muco-N'Gola  or  Mona  N'Gola — Strange  head- 
dresses and  queer  pockets  — On  the  summit  of  the  Serra 
Catanha — A  love  episode  and  its  unpleasant  close — Conjugal 
relations — An  evening  discussion  and  a  morning  fli'ght — 
Mineral  wealth  of  the  Jinga — Mode  of  preparing  cloth, 
dwellings,  &c. — A  storm  in  the  forest,  and  a  further  desertion — 
Den  of  thieves — A  page  or  two  from  the  diary — A  tough  cow 
— Arrival  at  Cafuchila  ........     48 


CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Hungo  and  its  people — Head-dresses — Tobacco  and  snuff — 
Ugliness  of  the  women,  their  indifference  to  dress — Low  esti- 
mation in  which  they  are  held — The  monarch  of  the  Congo — 
Preparations  for  departure — Discussions  with  the  natives — 
Sudden  dissolution  of  a  meeting — Abandoned  senzalas — A 
little  looting — Lake  Tiber — The  camp  kitchen  and  an  old 
acquaintance — A  siesta  disagreeably  interrupted — Flight  of 
the  caravan — Fallen  among  thieves — A  trial  and  a  singular 
decision — The  forest  fired — Woods  and  vegetation — Quadru- 
mans  and  reptiles — What  explorers  have  to  expect — Discovery 
of  the  river  Cu-gho — Varieties  of  trees — Passage  of  the  river 
and  African  cunning — A  rest  in  the  forest     .         .         .         .71 


Contents.  ix 

CHAPTER  V. 

PAGE 

We  leave  the  Cu-gho — Gloomy  presentiments — The  mu-chitos  and 
the  desert — An  evening  of  tribulations  and  a  devouring  thirst 
— Trying  times  of  a  life  in  the  interior — A  Providential  inter- 
position— More  mu-chitos  and  fresh  labour — Caught  in  the 
wood — Nervous  state  of  the  explorers — All  but  lost — Scouts 
sent  out  in  search  of  succour — Two  lines  from  the  diary — A 
terrible  night — Return  of  Jose  and  brief  narrative  of  his 
adventures — Two  solitary  hunters — Fresh  hopes — Again 
astray — An  apparition  of  palancas — Night  again — Final 
decision        .         .         .         .         .         .  .         .  .         .     92 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Opinion  of  the  authors  upon  laconism  in  the  description  of  toil  and 
suffering — The  night  of  the  27th  May — Apprehensions — 
Night  phantoms — An  unexpected  discovery — The  women 
of  the  caravan — A  marriage — Famine  and  plenty  next-door 
neighbours — Having  satisfied  the  body  we  seek  distraction  of 
mind — A  wine-party — Quizengamo,  an  important  quilolo, 
visits  the  encampment — Two  pages  from  the  diary — The 
guides  urge  us  to  repair  to  the  Court  of  the  Quianvo — Our 
own  resolve — The  Cuango  and  capricious  sinuosities  of  its 
course — Frightful  effects  of  dysentery — Putrid  fermentation 
and  the  failure  of  food — A  dance  of  the  Ma-yacca — Aban- 
doned in  the  forest — Fever,  ulcers,  and  dysentery — Flight  of 
the  guide — The  desert — Fragment  of  the  diary — Baffled — 
Return— The  Cugho 113 

CHAPTER  VII. 

The  author's  experience  respecting  the  importance  of  the  stomach 
— Brief  sketch  of  the  course  of  the  River  Cuango — In  the 
Cugho — The  land  of  plenty — Maluvo  wine  and  its  collection — 
Lake  Aquilonda  wiped  off  the  map — The  palm  and  climato- 
logic  zones — The  Rivers  Sussa  and  Cauali — Vegetation— Sova 


Contents. 

PAGE 

Catuma  Cangando  and  indiscreet  curiosity  of  his  lady-subjects 
— A  native  song — Strange  ceremony  among  the  Ma-hungo — 
An  interment  in  the  woods — Danje,  Luamba,  Matamba,  and 
Pacaca  Aquibonda — Caculo-Cabaca — Homicide  of  a  carrier — 
The  value  of  life  among  the  negroes — F?/wda-ia-Ebo  and  the 
last  burial — The  valleys  of  the  Lu-calla  and  a  story  of  a 
crocodile — A  new  theory  of  Cosmogony — The  delights  of  the 
table — Passage  of  the  Lu-calla —List  of  members  of  the 
caravan  that  reached  Duque  de  Braganca        .  139 


CHAPTER  VITT. 

Duque  de  Braganca,  its  importance  and  fertility — Dinner-time 
again — A  Sova  god-father — African  children  and  some  re- 
marks concerning  them — Infants  and  adults — Explanations 
concerning  our  route — A  parallel  and  the  cardinal  points* — An 
alarm — The  encampment  in  flames — Anxious  moments — The 
papers  of  the  explorers  and  the  ammunition  of  the  expedition 
— Carriers  and  thieves — Things  might  have  been  worse — Otubo 
and  our  clumsy  assistant — "  From  sources  small  what  great 
events  may  spring  " — The  bi-sonde  and  the  last  night  of  the 
month  of  July 162 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Pinal  departure  from  Duque  de  Braganca — One  of  Jose's  stories  — 
The  Lu-chilo  and  the  patrulhas — The  Ptyelus  olivaceus — Cap- 
tain Silverio's  pets — The  Cosmetornis  vexillarius—  Jose  has 
another  uncle — Samba-Cango,  the  Hango  and  the  Lu-calla — 
Brief  notice  of  the  river,  conformation  of  the  land  and  vege- 
tation— The  Cariombo  and  Porto  Real — Novel  rafts  and 
ingenious  method  of  propulsion — A  visit  to  Pamba,  and  a 
few  remarks  thereon — A  vegetable  giant — The  road  to  Pedras 
Negras — Jose  and  the  basalts — Xative  silk — Pungo  N'Dongo, 
its  aspect  and  constitution — Remarkable  impressions  on  the 
rocks — Port  Hunga  and   its  orange-trees — Philosophical  con- 


Contents. 


XI 


^derations  of  the  explorers — "  In  the  country  of  eyes,  the 
blind  are  kings" — The  Caballo  cascade  — The  Cuanza,  ob- 
stacles, fish,  cataracts — Brief  reflections  thereon  —  Malange, 
Calundo,  and  Pungo  N'Dongo        ...  ...  179 

CHAPTER  X. 

Return  to  camp — The  pulex  penetrans  and  a  noteworthy  entozoario 
■ — Variableness  of  the  winds  at  Pungo  N'Dongo — The  ex- 
plorer's staff  and  the  writer's  pen — We  take  leave  of  Silverio 
— Cabeto  and  Cuanza  flies — Native  lightning-conductors — 
Capanda  and  the  western  vegetation — Brief  notice  of  its 
ornithology — Sengue  and  Nhangue-ia-Pepe — Cataracts  of  the 
Cuanza — The  Sova  Dumba — Cassoque — Von  Mechow — The 
Baugo  and  climatological  variations — The  Cuanza  and  the 
Cabulo  cataract — Last  glance  at  the  interior — The  Dondo — 
Reception  of  the  explorers  at  that  place — A  trip  on  the  river — 
Loanda — Mossamedes — The  voyage  home      ....  208 


Conclusion         ...... 

Table  of  Geographical  Observations    . 

Heights  above  the  Sea-Level 

Additions  to  the  Fauna 

Flora 

African  Dialects 

Vocabularies     . 

Index 


231 
277 
282 
283 
299 
302 
304 
335 


LIST  OF  ENGRAVINGS. 


PAGE 

Dorningos'  tender  farewell    .  .  .         .  .  .  .  .4 

Catraio         .  .         .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .5 

The  Caravan,  in  a  long  line,  filed  off     .  .  .  .  .  .6 

Construction  of  the  Encampment  .  .  .  .  .  .8 

The  Jagga  Cambolla    .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .11 

Plunging  into  the  thick  grass         .  .  .  .  .  .20 

Following  the  steep  and  broken  track  ■  .  .  .  .  .21 

Native  Box 23 

Smoking  the  fatal  Liamba     .       -  .       '  .       *   .         .  .  .  .29 

The  colossal  Lughias    .  .       "  .  .  .  .  .  .33 

A  roadside  Cemetery    .         .         .         .      *  .         .         .         .         .36 

An  Ambaca  Gentleman         .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .41 

"  I  am  Dr.  Max  Buchner  " 43 

Lianzundo  Cataract       .........     45 

Nest  of  the  Capata-ieu  .  •  .         .         .         .         .         .47 

On  the  banks  of  the  Lu-calla         .  .  .  .         .  .         .49 

Jinga  Type  .  .  . 53 

Cateco,  the  Guide         .........     59 

The  Tempest  had  now  reached  its  height      .  .  .  .  .63 

All  but  lost 67 

We  found  the  herd  waiting  .......     68 

Sharpia  Angolensis        .........     70 

The  Ladies  of  the  Hungo 73 


x i v  List  of  Engravings . 

PAGE 

Lake  Tiber 79 

The  Holo  Type 81 

The  Court  was  complete       ........     84 

We  had  to  cut  our  way  with  the  hatchet       .....     87 

The  Cu-gho  Watermen 90 

Cynocephalus  Porcarius         ........     91 

Slowly  descending  from  a  height  ......     97 

The  Mu-chito 99 

Jose  and  his  Companions  emerged  from  the  Wood  .         .         .   106 

ThePalancas        .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .110 

Coracias  Espatulata 112 

Lemba,  Hutu's  Wife 117 

The  two  Fugitives        .         .         .  .         .         .         ...         .    121 

Yacca  Head-dresses      .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .125 

The  Cuango  in  Yacca  .         .         .         .         .  •  .         .129 

Dances  of  the  Ma-yacca        .         .         .         .         .  .         .         .130 

Woman  of  the  Congo  .         .  .         .         .         .         .         .         .   134 

The  silence  of  the  tomb  reigned  supreme 135 

Qui-vuvi,  the  Silk-spider       .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .138 

Provisions  literally  showered        .......   142 

Curiosity  punished         .         .  .         .  ,  .         .  .         .151 

A  terrible  Mishap         .         .  .         .  .         .         .         .         .155 

Cosmetornis  Vexillarius  (Quimbamba)  .  ,  .  .  .         .    161 

A  Sova  Godfather .167 

The  Peril  was  intense  .         .         .         .         .         .  .         .174 

African  Silk .         .178 

The  Patrulha  of  Samba  Cango      .  .  .         .  .         .  .  184 

It  is  a  complete  system  of  parallel  screws       .....  186 

Rocks  of  Pungo  N'Dongo    .         .         . 193 

The  Caballo  Cascade    .         .         .         . 199 

Telphusa  Anchieta?,  River  Cuanza         ......  200 

Telphusa  Bayonniana,  River  Cuanza     ......  200 

Euprepes  Ivensi  (new  species),  River  Cuanza        .         .         .         .201 


List  of  Engravings. 


Chroinis  Sparramanni  (Smith),  River  Cuanza 
Dembe  (Mormyrus  Lhuysi,  Steind),  River  Cuanza 
Muaca  (Hemichromis  Angolensis,  Steind),  River  Cuanza 
Cliromis  Moss  Ambicus  (Peters),  River  Cuanza 
Highly  ornamental  frog,  River  Cuanza 
River  Cuanza  Crab       ..... 
Empacaceiro  of  Quissama      .... 
The  Tipoia  of  Angola  .... 

The  Voyage  home         ..... 


XV 

PAGE 

201 
204 
204 
204 
205 
207 
216 
224 
230 


► 


Sampson.  Low,  Marston  .  Searle ,  &   Rhdnatcnx 


5000»feet 
4000  \ 

3O00 


level  of  tke  SeaJ 


m5? 


.  a 


FROM    BENGUELLA    TO    THE    TERRITORY 
OF    YACCA. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Last  day  at  the  fair  and  meditations  under  the  old  sycamores — Deser- 
tions and  new  recruits — General  aspect  of  the  country,  temperature 
and  effect  of  humidity — A  native  court  and  a  cemetery — Sketch  of 
an  encampment  on  the  march — Cambolla  the  jagga — Etiquette  in 
the  Banza — The  sova's  hat — Exchange  of  presents — The  banks 
of  the  Lui  and  the  baobabs — An  excursion  towards  the  Cuango — 
Difficult  roads  and  dangerous  currents — The  water-snake  and 
fetish  preservatives — Alarm  caused  by  a  couple  of  leeches — The 
jagga  of  the  Bondos  and  four  salt  lakes — A  sacrifice  to  science — 
Native  caravans — Proneness  of  the  Africans  to  trade,  and  what  they 
owe  to  it — The  j>est  of  the  ivoods,  and  an  unpleasant  family  of  ants 
— Tala-Mogongo  ;  its  aspect  and  vegetation — A  lovely  prospect 
and  the  reflections  it  awakened. 

We  have  before  observed  that  the  departure  of  a  caravan 
for  a  long  journey  is  always  an  event  of  some  importance, 
as  the  reader  would  have  admitted  had  he  been  by  our 
side  in  Cassange  in  the  afternoon  of  the  18th  day  of 
February  in  the  year  of  grace  1879. 

The  ample  terrace  of  our  residence  was  encumbered 
with  the  various  articles  taken  from  the  warehouses 
by  the  busy  little  band  of  boys.  The  work  began  as 
usual  with  a  great  deal  more  noise  than  was  necessary, 
accompanied  by  animated  jovial  talk,  a  great  display  of 

VOL.    II.  B 


.^M^.cJ^^^^-^,^^^^  : 


SECTION    BETWEEN    M.CAENGUE    AND    MASSANCANO     fcrironul  Scale  i». ..-  M ,,, 


2  West  and  Central  Africa. 

white  teetli  and  sundry  jokes  from  the  more  lazy  of  the 
crew  seated  on  the  bales  and  trunks. 

Exchanges  of  loads,  protests  against  their  weight, 
substitution  of  muskets,  pilferings  of  ropes  and  straps,  or 
the  loss  of  a  key  of  an  important  case,  that  required  to 
be  opened,  and  which  the  intelligent  carrier,  after  insane 
search,  in  a  sudden  fit  of  inspiration,  suggested  might  be 
inside,  made  up  some  of  the  common  incidents  of  the 
scene. 

The  sun,  as  it  got  high  in  the  heavens,  was  a  signal 
to  knock  off  work,  the  goods  being  then  all  piled  in 
readiness,  and  we  took  our  last  rest  beneath  those 
memorable  sycamores. 

Each  had  lighted  his  pipe  and  was  puffing  huge  volumes 
of  smoke  in  silence,  his  head  sunk  within  the  collar  of  his 
great-coat,  his  knees  well  drawn  in  and  his  body  arched 
to  the  not  unnatural  position  assumed  by  a  man  who  has 
only  a  hard  stone  to  sit  upon  ! 

Forty  days  had  we  passed  in  that  place,  gazing  upon 
the  miserable  huts,  and  twice  as  many  plans  had  we  dis- 
cussed and  rejected  in  the  interval.  L'homme  propose  et 
Dieu  dispose  is  a  proverb  which,  however  hackneyed,  had 
been  found  to  be  only  too  true  in  Cassange  scores  of 
times. 

"  Cribbed,  cabined,  and  confined  "  in  that  wretched 
hole,  where  our  goods  were  stored  in  semi-picturesque 
disorder,  at  one  time  down  with  fever,  and  more  often 
than  not  under  its  influence,  a  constant  prey  to  ticks 
(ma-n'cuba)  which  had  permanently  settled  about  us, 
there  was  scarcely  any  form  of  annoyance  that  we  had 
not  gone  through  during  our  stay. 

It  has  been  seen  how  the  excursion  to  the  east  was 
defeated  by  the  Ban-gala ;  how  a  previous  one  to  the 
north  was  frustrated  by  fever ;  how  the  rains  prevented 


Leave-takings 


& 


any  wanderings  in  the  neighbourhood ;  and  finally,  we 
may  add,  that  interviews  with  the  natives  were  so  boot- 
less and  so  fatiguing  that  we  at  last  refused  to  receive 
them,  owing  to  the  insupportable  impudence  and  pre- 
tensions of  the  petty  chiefs. 

Although  Cassange  cannot  be  reputed  the  worst  of 
places,  owing  to  the  resources  which  it  undoubtedly 
possesses,  it  was  nevertheless  one  of  those  that  we  left 
without  regret  and  would  willingly  have  blotted  from  our 
memory. 

Jose,  our  new  guide,  but  recently  engaged,  had  pro- 
posed to  conduct  us  by  a  different  road  across  the  Jinga, 
until  we  should  again  fall  in  with  the  Cuango ;  but  many 
of  the  carriers  who  took  not  the  slightest  interest  in  such 
an  undertaking  and  had  certainly  no  ambition  to  follow 
it  out,  deserted  in  a  body  and  with  them  went  the 
cabindas  who  had  hitherto  stuck  by  us.  The  guide, 
nevertheless,  succeeded  in  getting  some  five-and-twenty 
fresh  carriers  and  with  them  we  had  resolved  to  make  a 
start. 

The  18th.  of  February  had  come  and  gone  and  at  day- 
break of  the  19th,  when  in  a  sound  sleep,  a  voice,  issuing 
from  a  head  popped  within  our  cabin,  exclaimed, — 

"  Senhores,  it  is  five  o'clock !  " 

Springing  to  our  feet  we  issued  the  necessary  instruc- 
tions ;  had  a  capital  breakfast  in  the  dwelling  of  our 
good  friend  Narciso  A.  Paschoal,  whom  we  beg  in  this 
place  to  thank  for  many  acts  of  kindness;  shook  hands 
and  exchanged  cordial  greetings  with  acquaintances  we 
had  made,  and  then  watched  the  arranging  of  our  men 
into  marching  order. 

There  were  other  leave-takings  besides  our  own  and 
some  of  them  even  assumed  a  poetic  form.  Of  this  com- 
plexion was  the  tender  farewell  of  Domingos,  a  carrier, 

b  2 


4  West  and  Central  Africa. 

to   his    beloved   Umba,    wherein    his    n*  dengue    (heart) 
figured  very  prominently  ;  his  improvised  song  running, 

TJmba-ri-ame  muene  rf  dengue  Io-oende. 

Umba-ri-ame  muene  n' dengue  Io-oende. 

Moi  N'jinji. 

Or  as  it  was  translated  to  us, 

"  Umba,  my  lady  and  my  heart, 
From  thee,  N'jinji  must  depart  !" 


DOMINGOS    TENDER   FAREWELL. 


Catraio,  our  blundering  assistant,  was  spared  so  pain- 
ful a  ceremony,  for  the  simple  reason  that  his  affectionate 
spouse,  for  the  twentieth  time  to  our  knowledge,  had 
run  away  from  him,  and  now  seated  on  the  ground,  he 
sought  consolation  in  his  pipe  while  the  bustle  and 
confusion  gradually  gave  place  to  order,  and  the  caravan, 


Departure  from  Cassange.  5 

in  a  long  line,  the  porters  duly  laden,  filed  off  to  the 
westward. 

In  this  fashion,  then,  we  abandoned  Cassange,  and 
struck  into  the  serpentine  path  which  first  crosses  the 
undulating  plateaux  leading  to  the  western  mountains, 
makes  its  way  along  the  slopes  of  the  latter,  traverses 
the  territory  of  the  Ban-gala  and  Ban-bondo,  on  the 
higher  ground,  and  reaches  at  last  the  Portuguese  station 
of  the  Duque  de  Braganza. 


CATRAIO. 


The  expeditionary  corps  steered  a  direct  course  for  the 
ravine  of  Tala-Mogongo,  about  seven  days' journey  from 
our  point  of  departure.  Crossing  numerous  rivulets,  for 
the  most  part  affluents  of  the  Lui,  some  having  an  im- 
petuous current,  running  through  steep  banks  of  schist 
others  on  a  low  flat  bed,  frequently  inundating  the 
adjacent  country  and  giving  birth  to  tall,  stiff  grass,  ferns, 
Papyrus,  Typhus,  Nenuphar es,  Victorias,  and  Mariancjas, 
the  homes  of  numerous  frogs,  whose  croakings  were 
heard   at   a    considerable  distance    and    resembled    the 


6  West  and  Central  Africa. 

cackling  of  geese,  and  not  a  few  toads,  with  a  note  not 
unlike  the  tinkling  of  grelots,  the  caravan  reached  one 
of  the  most  picturesque  regions  in  this  part  of  Africa. 

What  a  pity,  we  thought,  that  our  poets  and  our 
painters,  who  are  compelled  to  see  so  many  things  with 
their  mind's  eye,  cannot  be  transported  hither  to  enjoy 
in  reality  the  numerous  sights  and  sounds  which  this 
magnificent  country  possesses  in  such  profusion  !  What 
delight  these  romantic  scenes  would  afford  the  ardent  and 


THE    CARAVAN,    IN    A   LONG    LINE,    FILED    OFF. 


insatiable  imagination  of  the  artist  and  the — but  there 
we  stopped,  not  being  quite  clear  about  the  delight  of  the 
poet  under  such  circumstances.  So  putting  an  end  to  our 
philosophical  considerations,  we  plunged  into  the  thicket 
and  went  on  our  way. 

Under  this  latitude,  the  months  of  February  and  March 
are  the  hottest  in  the  year,  the  thermometer  reaching 
87°  Fahr.  in  the  shade.  The  atmosphere  so  sultry  and 
yet  so  full  of  humidity  is  then  perilous  in  the  extreme. 
When  in  the  heart  of  the  forest,   the  air,  saturated  with 


A  Court  of  Justice.  7 

vapour  is  almost  unbearable,  and  it  is  only  with  an  effort 
that  one  can  breathe  at  all.  Under  its  influence,  the 
very  plants  suffer;  trunks  of  stout  trees  becoming  every- 
where covered  with  cryptogamic  excrescences  in  a  perfect 
state  of  putrefaction.  As  a  natural  consequence  most 
metals  oxydize  with  astonishing  rapidity,  and  the  barrels 
of  our  guns  and  pistols,  our  knives,  the  needles  of  the 
compasses  and  other  articles  were  in  a  few  hours  covered 
with  rust.  Leather  softened,  the  wood  of  our  instru- 
ments warped,  paper  returned  to  its  original  pulp,  our 
goods  soaked  up  damp  like  so  many  sponges,  to  such  a 
degree  that  it  became  necessary  to  open  the  bales  and 
expose  their  contents  to  the  sun,  to  prevent  their  utter 
destruction.  In  man,  the  effect  of  this  dis -equilibrium 
of  nature  is  to  produce  permanent  dysentery. 

At  about  noon,  on  the  25th,  we  reached  the  banza  of 
the  Sova  Cambolla,  the  chief  of  one  of  the  families  in 
whom  the  jagg ado,  already  referred  to,  is  invested.  Only 
a  few  moments  previously,  we  had  passed  a  gigantic  syca- 
more under  which  a  Court  of  so  called  Justice  was  sitting. 
An  assassin  was  on  his  trial,  his  punishment  being  the 
payment  of  a  fine  to  the  family  of  the  victim ;  and  as, 
on  the  one  hand,  there  was  a  mu-cano,  and  on  the  other  a 
quituche  in  respect  of  the  motives  of  the  crime,  the  accused 
was  likely  to  be  heavily  mulcted. 

Leaving  the  banza  on  the  west,  we  made  for  a  pleasant 
eminence,  which,  being  crowned  with  a  group  of  graceful 
trees,  looked  a  likely  place  for  the  construction  of  our 
quilombo.  Loud  cries,  however,  from  the  natives  gave  us 
to  understand  that  the  place  was  a  cemetery ;  and  com- 
pelled us  to  seek  another  site.  We  had  noticed  this  to  be 
the  case  so  frequently  that  we  determined  in  future  to 
eschew  picturesque  localities  for  the  pitching  of  our  camp 
— at  least,    in    the    neighbourhood    of   villages,  for  the 


8  West  and  Central  Africa, 

natives  have  quite  a  mania  to  select  the  most  beautiful 
spots  for  the  last  resting-places  of  the  dead. 

Experience  soon  taught  us  that  the  best  place  for  an 
encampment  was  in  the  wood,  and  as  a  general  rule  we 
erected  it  there.  Such  a  site  had  always  much  in  its 
favour.  Material  for  the  erection  of  the  huts  and  for 
fuel  was  ready  to  the  hand ;  our  position  was  relatively 
independent,  and  we  were  relieved  from  the  visits  and  in- 
conveniences arising  from  a  residence  in  the  libatas  of  the 
sovas.  On  the  other  hand,  we  more  than  once  got  into 
hot  water  with  these  gentlemen  for  refusing  to  take  up  our 
quarters  in  their  precincts,  but  we  always  found  them 
disposed  to  yield  if  we  showed  sufficient  firmness  in  our 
own  determination.  In  the  present  instance  having  left 
the  lib  at  a,  near  which  we  first  thought  of  camping,  half  a 
mile  behind  us,  we  came  upon  some  fresh  water,  and  at 
once  gave  orders  to  pile  the  goods  round  a  large  tree. 

Then  ensued  the  busy  scene  that  was  usual  on  such 
occasions.  Our  men,  who  were  now  tolerably  expert 
from  long  practice,  started  off  in  every  direction.  Some 
in  search  of  young  trees,  which  were  cut  down  to  form 
the  skeletons  of  our  huts.  Others  lopped  off  and  brought 
in  branches  to  fill  in  the  interstices  and  make  a  first 
covering  of  the  roof;  whilst  many  more  came  laden  with 
sheaves  of  the  tall  grass,  to  be  used  as  thatch  and  as 
outer  coating  of  the  houses. 

Work  was  going  on  inside  as  well  as  out.  Three  or 
four  of  the  most  expert  would  arrange  the  sleeping-places, 
composed  of  grass  and  dry  leaves,  on  which  were  spread 
a  couple  of  panther-skins ;  while  Otubo  neatly  piled  upon 
two  or  three  tree-trunks,  set  in  front  of  our  huts,  the 
whole  of  the  goods,  that  were  then  covered  with 
tarpaulins  which  we  carried  with  us  for  the  purpose. 

When  the  two  principal  huts  were  built,  the  men  ran 


Sketch  of  the  Encampment.  9 

up  their  own  little  wigwams,  disposed  in  a  circle  about 
our  own,  so  as  to  leave  our  dwellings  and  the  goods  in  the 
centre ;  and  in  about  a  couple  of  hours  after  our  arrival 
the  encampment  was  complete. 

Meanwhile  Capulca  had  been  fitting  up  his  camp- 
kitchen,  and  having  turned  out  his  pans,  coffee-pots, 
knives,  tin  plates,  cups,  &c,  he  set  two  or  three  young 
niggers  to  work  to  clean  them. 

We  ourselves  were  soon  engaged  in  determining  by 
divers  observations  the  geographical  co-ordinates  with 
their  variations,  taking  the  bearings  of  the  region  in 
which  we  stood,  and  registering  our  meteorological  calcu- 
'ations.  The  entering  all  these  took  up  our  time  till 
^out  three  in  the  afternoon,  the  hour  generally  selected 
lur  our  principal  meal.  The  little  box  that  held  the  cups 
and  plates  served  alternately  as  our  working  and  our 
dining-table.  Upon  it  were  then  placed  a  couple  of 
plates  with  knives  and  forks,  and  on  the  ground  a  large 
iron  pot  of  infundi,  a  dish  of  roasted  meat,  on  fortunate 
days, — smoke-dried  fish  on  others,  and  not  unfrequently 
nothing  whatsoever.  Our  food  was  seasoned  with  Chili 
pepper  or  jinduncjo  which  had  the  advantage  of  covering 
any  flavour  that  the  palate  would  otherwise  have  fouud 
objectionable.  A  cup  of  coffee  and  a  pipe  to  finish  off 
with  did  wonders  towards  making  us  satisfied  with  our 
homely  fare. 

Then  would  follow  the  hour  for  reflection  and  repose. 
An  indigo  sky,  a  pleasant  temperature,  a  brilliant  land- 
scape, and  a  full  stomach  invited  us  to  rest  upon  the 
springy  surface  of  the  grass,  growing  all  about  us, 
leaving  to  the  "  gentle  zephyrs  "  the  care  of  fanning  us 
to  sleep  ! 

At  two  o'clock  that  afternoon  we  were  introduced  into 
the  dwelling  of  the  jagg  a  Cambolla,  a  handsome  residence, 


io  West  and  Central  Africa. 

constructed  in  great  part  of  marianga,  perfectly  interlaced 
with  grass,  and  surrounded  by  a  stockade. 

The  macotas,  opening  and  shutting  doors,  introduced 
us  successively  into  fresh  compartments,  till  we  wished 
their  etiquette  at  the  very  deuce.  And  there  was  such  an 
air  of  mystery  about  the  whole  proceeding,  peeping  into 
corners  and  nodding  of  heads  as  if  they  expected  to  find 
something  which  they  were  sure  was  lying  concealed. 

Two  more  compartments,  traversed  in  the  same  way, 
brought  us  to  the  hall  of  reception,  in  the  middle  of  which 
we  found  the  old  chief,  seated  on  a  low  stool ;  a  large 
framed,  powerfully  made  man,  already  in  years. 

Like  many  of  the  other  potentates  of  whom  we  have 
spoken  he  exercises  absolute  and  despotic  sway  over 
numerous  vassals,  whom  he  treats  at  his  good  pleasure, 
makes  war  and  peace  as  he  thinks  fit,  takes  everything  he 
covets  and  possesses  a  variety  of  other  prerogatives  which 
his  panegyrists  are  always  dinning  in  his  ear. 

He  was  attired  in  a  long  cloth  of  printed  calico, 
bound  with  blue,  had  bangles  on  his  wrists  and  ankles, 
wore  a  bead-necklace,  and  on  his  head  an  enormous  hat  of 
a  Portuguese  infantry  soldier  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
and  which,  driven  right  down  to  his  ears,  gave  him  a 
most  grotesque  appearance. 

Regretting,  as  he  informed  us,  his  inability  to  treat 
us  as  he  wished,  he  nevertheless  made  us  a  little 
present  of  an  enormous  black  ox,  which,  not  only  refused 
to  yield  to  the  persuasion  of  a  bullet  that  was  put  into 
him,  but  took  to  flight  across  country  ad  perjpetuam  rei 
memoriam. 

Presenting  him  with  some  cloth  in  return  and  one  of 
Cassai's  pups,  which  his  Majesty  was  very  anxious  to 
possess,  we  took  leave  of  Cambolla  Cangonga  and  pur- 
sued our  way  towards  the  west. 


The  River  Lui. 


ii 


Before  us  extended  the  azure  line  of  the  high  land, 
terminating  northwards  in  Mount  Bango  and  the  serried 
heads  of  the  N'guri ;  and  in  the  south  the  view  was  lost 
in  the  far  horizon,  where  Bumba,  another  jagga  of 
Cajinga,  had  his  residence.  On  the  south-east  appeared 
a  lofty  peak,  called  Cassalla,  the  summit  of  which  is  known 
only  to  a  few  intrepid  natives,  who,  having  found  water 


THE    JAGGA   CAMBOLLA. 


near  the  top,  have  converted  it  into  a  perfect  fortress,  held 
lO  be  impregnable. 

Having  crossed  the  Lui,  whose  banks  we  found  covered 
with  the  broad  flags  of  Arundo  jyliragmites^  green  ferns, 
eschinomenes — a  species  of  sensitive  plant — and  ede- 
monas,  we  continued  on  through  inundated  plains. 

On  the  last  day  but  one  of  the  month  of  February,  to 
the  north-west  of  the   Lu-ango   senzala,  the  expedition 


1 2  West  and  Central  Africa. 

was  encamped  on  the  precipitous  bank  of  the  Muhamba ; 
a  rapid  torrent  to  which  the  waters  from  the  mountains 
are  drained  and  rush  on  to  swell  the  Lui.  Here  we  met 
our  old  friends  the  baobabs,  those  splendid  trees  we  had 
lost  sight  of  since  we  left  Quillengues.  The  altitude 
was  shown  to  be  3321  feet. 

The  rain  at  that  time  was  coming  down  in  avalanches. 
So  after  arranging  our  meteorological  instruments, 
barometers,  and  thermometers  in  the  open  air,  together 
with  the  psychrometers  to  estimate  the  humidity,  we 
took  shelter  within  our  hut  and  looked  disconsolately  at 
the  watery  picture. 

We  still  obstinately  stuck  to  our  idea  of  travelling 
north-eastward,,  in  order  to  see  whether  we  could  not 
elude  the  Ban-gala  and  cross  the  Cuango  through  Holo. 
But  our  guides  just  as  obstinately  protested  against  it, 
asserting  that  the  attempt  would  be  a  certain  failure. 

66  Throughout  Cassange,"  they  averred,  "  the  news  had 
spread  that  the  people  of  the  Cuango  had  forbidden  the 
whites  to  cross  the  river.  That  a  short  time  before,  a 
t'chindelle  (referring  to  Otto  Schutt)  had  got  into  trouble 
in  the  Yongo  with  the  Calandula  of  the  Caquilo  and  the 
Banza  Quitumba-Caquipungo  ;  you  yourselves,  further 
south,  were  stopped  by  the  Banza-e-Lunda,  and  ran 
great  risk  of  losing  all  your  goods ;  so  that  the  trying 
once  more  to  force  a  way  in  the  teeth  of  those  savages 
would  be  to  court  defeat  and  probable  destruction.'7 

Admitting  to  a  certain  extent  the  force  of  this  reason- 
ing, we  nevertheless  held  that  an  attempt  might  still  be 
made  by  one  of  us  to  ascertain  the  feeling  of  the  natives 
whilst  the  others  remained  in  camp,  and  this  being  fully 
discussed  and  decided  on,  we  at  once  proceeded  to  put 
the  plan  into  execution. 

Next  morning,  therefore,   early,  the  exploring  party 


Excursion  towards  the  Cuango,  1 3 

set  out  in  the  direction  of  the  N'guri  range,  towering  up 
in  the  north,  and  in  whose  vicinity  the  jagg  a  of  the 
Bondos  had  his  dwelling. 

Traversing  the  little  plateau  of  the  Luango,  we  began 
ascending  and  descending  the  undulating  ground  and 
plunging  into  fresh  obstacles  with  every  step.  The 
brawling  streams,  rushing  from  the  heights  through  the 
deep  furrows  worn  in  the  mountain -side,  committed  all 
sorts  of  vagaries,  at  one  time  presenting  a  narrow  but  deep 
rivulet,  at  another  inundating  the  lower  ground,  which 
it  converted  into  marshes,  where  the  water  reached  our 
waists. 

Issuing  from  a  low-sunken  valley,  we  climbed  on  to 
the  mountain  slope,  but  had  no  sooner  congratulated 
ourselves  upon  the  change  than  we  were  buried  in  the 
thick  grass  and  papyrus,  and  had  thus  to  struggle  with 
the  forest  and  marshy  vegetation  combined. 

These  marches  up  and  down,  if  prolonged  to  any 
extent,  become  somewhat  insipid  and  monotonous,  inas- 
much as  the  side  of  the  mountain  on  the  one  hand  and 
the  vegetation  on  the  other,  completely  shut  out  all  view, 
and  leave  nothing  but  a  peak  or  two  and  the  sky  over- 
head to  relieve  the  attention. 

When  crossing  the  river  Bale,  with  the  water  to  our 
middle,  one  of  the  carriers  very  nearly  lost  his  life.  It 
was  a  moment  of  intense  anxiety,  which  was  only  relieved 
by  dint  of  great  exertion.  The  poor  fellow  stepped  into 
one  of  those  holes  of  soft  mud,  which  are  so  frequent  in 
these  rivers,  and  sunk  immediately  down  to  his  arm- 
pits ;  nothing,  in  fact,  could  have  saved  him  if  help  had 
not  been  so  near. 

The  woods  we  passed  through  were  utterly  deserted. 
Scarce  a  vestige  of  the  passage  of  a  caravan  was  dis- 
covered ;  the  only  evidence  being  the  carbonized  trunks 


1 4  West  and  Central  Africa. 

of  a  few  trees  and  a  calcined  stone  or  two  in  the  more 
open  ground. 

Whilst  cutting  our  way  through  dense  underwood,  a 
perfect  labyrinth  of  canes  and  brambles,  and  where 
almost  every  tree  exposed  its  complicated  net-work  of 
roots  to  the  air,  we  observed,  to  our  astonishment  and 
alarm,  the  men  who  formed  our  vanguard  throw  down 
their  loads  and  rush  towards  us. 

"  Uta !  Uta !  "  was  the  cry.  "  A  snake,  senhor,  an 
enormous  boa  !  " 

Desirous  of  ascertaining  the  truth,  we  advanced 
cautiously  in  the  direction  they  pointed  out,  and  made 
our  way  to  the  trunk  of  a  colossal  Herminiera  _£/.,  lying 
prone  upon  the  ground,  beside  the  precipitous  bank  of  one 
of  the  torrents  already  referred  to.  Whilst  peering  about 
there  suddenly  emerged  from  the  grass  a  gigantic  head, 
followed  by  an  enormous  body,  which,  with  a  couple  of 
undulations  reached  the  stream  and  disappeared  in  the 
water.  This  apparition,  most  probably  a  water-snake  or 
Naja,  produced  a  most  disheartening  effect  upon  our  men, 
not  one  of  whom  would  now  venture  to  ford  the  river, 
each,  saw  the  dreadful  reptile  at  a  different  spot,  only 
waiting  an  opportunity  to  devour  him. 

In  order  to  frighten  away  the  beast  and  destroy  any 
secret  and  malignant  influence  it  might  be  supposed  to 
exercise,  to  the  prejudice  of  our  expedition,  Master  Jose, 
or  Ze  as  they  called  him,  here  came  to  the  rescue  and 
exorcised  the  animal  by  a  combined  system  of  fetishism 
known  only  to  himself.  After  the  lapse  of  five  minutes 
he  came  out  of  the  wood,  where  he  had  ensconced  himself, 
gave  two  piercing  whistles  and  then  declared  the  job 
complete  and  that  we  might  enter  the  water  without 
fear.  But  when  half-way  across,  a  sudden  dash  of  the 
torrent,  followed  by  a  piercing  shriek,  sent  all  flying — our- 


A  curious  Bird.  i 5 

selves,  we  must  confess,  among  the  number — while  a  man 
in  mid-stream  screamed  out,  "  I'm  lost !  I'm  dead  !  " 

As,  however,  in  spite  of  his  asseveration  he  still  held 
his  ground,  we  went  to  the  rescue,  and  dragged  him  out, 
when  it  was  discovered  that  a  couple  of  leeches  had 
fixed  upon  his  ankle  and  caused  the  cries  which  had  so 
alarmed  us. 

On  the  2nd  of  March,  when  passing  the  base  of  Mount 
Catanha,  a  porter  was  sent  up  to  the  jagga's  senzala,  with 
the  customary  present,  subsequently  folio  wing  us  towards 
the  north-east,  in  the  direction  of  the  territory  of  the 
N'ganga  N'zumba.  That  sova  was  absent,  and  the 
information  obtained  from  his  subjects  entirely  dissipated 
the  notion  we  had  conceived  of  reaching  the  Cuango  in 
this  direction. 

"  The  Ban-gala  will  not  allow  you  to  pass,"  they  all 
exclaimed ;  but  apart  from  this,  they  informed  us  that 
the  land  through  which  the  river  Lu-anda  ran  was  all 
under  water ;  that  four  salt  lakes,  the  property  of 
N'ganga,  also  intervened  and  barred  the  passage ;  and 
that  if  even  these  difficulties  were  got  over,  the  whole  of 
the  foot  of  the  slopes  beyond  was  inundated,  and  the 
track,  for  the  time  being,  utterly  swallowed  up. 

By  this  time  our  porter  had  arrived  in  company  of  an 
inhabitant  of  the  senzala,  who  brought  us  a  basket  of 
fuba,  by  way  of  compliment,  and  an  enormous  bird  (hear- 
ing probably  that  we  had  a  taste  for  ornithology),  which 
was  accompanied  by  the  inquiry  whether  there  were  any 
such  beyond  the  great  water. 

It  was  a  large,  black  palmiped  with  an  immense  beak 
like  a  toucan;  the  eyes  reminded  us  of  a  chameleon, 
being  circular,  prominent  and  movable;  the  body  re- 
sembled that  of  a  duck  but  was  much  larger. 

Unaware  whether  the  creature  was  an  acquaintance  of 


1 6  West  and  Central  Africa. 

the  naturalists,  we  evaded  a  reply,  and  as  the  doubt 
existed  in  our  minds  we  saw  no  better  mode  of  solving 
the  problem  than  to  wring  its  neck  in  the  name  of  science, 
and  substituting  for  the  internal  arrangements  bestowed 
upon  it  by  nature,  a  little  cotton  wool,  wait  quietly  for 
the  decision  of  the  masters. 

Seeing  that  there  was  nothing  else  to  be  done,  we 
decided  on  returning  the  way  we  came,  besides  that  the 
state  of  our  health  made  such  a  proceeding  advisable. 

On  the  3rd  of  the  month,  not  only  were  we  prostrated 
by  fever,  but  dysentery  set  in,  and  the  ulceration  of  the 
lower  part  of  our  legs  resisted  every  treatment  that  we 
applied,  so  that  the  last  days'  journeys  were  a  martyrdom. 

Travelling  again  over  the  same  ground,  which  had 
not  been  made  easier  in  the  interim,  we  fell  in,  upon  the 
third  day,  with  a  caravan  of  Ma-songo,  bound  for  the 
west  with  a  heavy  load  of  india-rubber  and  wax,  for- 
warded from  Cassange. 

It  appeared  in  the  shape  of  a  long  file  of  men  and  boys, 
for  the  most  part  wearing  a  single  rug  suspended  from 
a  piece  of  rope  round  the  waist,  and  in  which  they  tucked 
their  pipes,  hatchets,  knives  and  other  articles  ;  and  as 
they  marched  intoning  a  monotonous  song.  The  boys 
seemed  to  be  of  no  little  assistance  to  their  elders,  who, 
being  laden  with  packages  weighing  some  ninety  pounds, 
in  most  cases  divided  their  burthen  with  the  young  ones, 
so  that  many  of  these  striplings  had  to  carry  forty 
pounds  of  weight. 

The  position  of  a  trader  in  this  part  of  the  world  is 
anything  but  an  enviable  one.  No  sooner  had  we  reached 
the  spot  than  any  number  of  india-rubber  balls  were 
offered  us  for  sale,  abstracted  from  the  bales  by  their 
carriers.  As  we  had  no  inclination  to  do  business,  they 
dispersed  and  carried  their  stolen  wares  to  the  neighbour- 


Passion  for  Trade.  17 

ing  senzalas  where,  of  course,  no  end  of  disputes  at  once 
arose.  In  one  instance  a  fellow  wanted  to  exchange  his 
gun,  without  a  lock,  for  a  new  one,  making  up  the 
difference  with  wax  or  india-rubber  ;  in  another,  a  carrier 
having  procured  some  garapa  upon  similar  terms,  his 
companions  managed  to  abstract  and  drink  half  of  it, 
and  he  could  only  save  the  remainder  by  retiring  hastily 
to  the  wood,  calabash  in  hand,  and  consuming  it  in 
secret ;  two  or  three  haying  clubbed  together  to  purchase 
tobacco,  fell  to  loggerheads  about  its  division,  and  so  on, 
making  a  scene  of  quarrels,  drunkenness,  and  confusion 
that  was  perfectly  bewildering. 

The  Africans,  as  a  rule,  dearly  love  a  bargain,  and 
many  of  them  have  almost  an  innate  passion  for  trade. 
Bin-bundo,  Ban-gala,  Ba-lunda,  Ban-bondo,  all  alike  are 
traders,  and  are  deemed  fitting  for  it  in  proportion  to 
their  cunning  and  dishonesty,  the  latter  quality  being 
considered  indispensable.  Living  by  trade  and  for 
trade,  they  are  to  be  found  wherever  goods  can  be  ob- 
tained and  bartered,  and  in  pursuit  of  their  calling  they 
will  plunge  into  endless  controversy,  make  contracts 
which  they  either  break  or  never  half  fulfil,  and  spend 
innumerable  days  amid  interminable  talk. 

Their  fairs  or  markets  are  the  important  centres 
where  the  natives  display  all  their  dexterity  and  eloquence, 
and  to  which  all  the  great  commercial  expeditions  natu- 
rally tend ;  but  they  will  never  lose  an  opportunity  of 
doing  business  on  the  road. 

Goods  vary  greatly  in  price  and  facility  of  sale, 
according  to  the  countries  they  pass  through,  and  one 
may  readily  guess  for  what  part  of  the  interior  a  caravan 
is  bound  on  learning  the  kind  of  merchandise  with  which 
it  is  laden. 

The  natives  have  everything  to  gain  by  trade,  and  it 
vol.  it.  n 


1 8  West  and  Central  Africa. 

may  well  be  said  that  without  it  they  would  be  nothing. 
Commerce,  by  obliging  them  to  make  repeated  journeys, 
carries  with  it,  as  a  necessary  consequence,  the  establish- 
ment of  relations  and  the  making  of  contracts  with  dis- 
tant peoples.  Compelled  to  seek  out  districts  where 
articles  can  be  obtained  at  the  cheapest  rate,  in  order  to 
get  the  most  profit  out  of  them,  they  acquire  a  taste  for 
speculation  and  a  clear  knowledge  of  value.  Experience 
has  given  them  considerable  expertness,  and  nature  has 
supplied  them  with  a  vast  amount  of  dissimulation  as  all 
Europeans  who  have  had  any  dealings  with  them  know 
to  their  cost. 

It  is  really  curious  to  observe  the  eagerness  with 
which  the  negro  will  seek  to  do  a  little  business.  A 
cloth  or  handkerchief  purchased  but  a  moment  before, 
will  be  readily  exchanged  if  he  see  the  most  ..trifling 
profit  can  be  made  by  the  barter.  In  our  own  encamp- 
ment we  have  had  opportunities  of  observing  within  the 
short  space  of  twenty-four  hours,  a  yard  of  red  baize  pass 
into  the  hands  of  six  successive  owners. 

The  whole  of  the  goods  constituting  the  African  trade, 
south  of  the  equator,  are  carried  upon  the  heads  or 
shoulders  of  men,  who,  collected  in  caravans,  styled 
m'bacas  in  the  south  and  quibucas  in  the  north,  and 
directed  by  a  quissongo,  march  in  extended  lines  across  the 
country.  It  was  one  of  these  we  now  met,  and  whose 
presence  has  given  rise  to  the  foregoing  remarks,  and 
which,  to  our  supreme  satisfaction,  shortly  afterwards 
resumed  its  way,  and  left  us  in  peace  to  construct  our 
own  little  encampment. 

By  three  o'clock,  our  huts  being  built  and  fires  lighted 
to  dry  our  clothes  and  prepare  our  food,  we  got  out  the 
instruments  for  recording  the  usual  observations,  when 
Catraio  (of  the  "  bird  of  ill-omen  "   memory,  and  whose 


The  Pest  of  the  Woods.  1 9 

duty  it  was  to  take  charge  of  the  scientific  apparatus) 
imparted  to  us  the  unwelcome  intelligence  that  we  might 
from  that  date  consider  ourselves  without  a  ground 
thermometer,  as  he  had  left  the  iron  tube  behind  him  at 
Cassange  in  company  of  a  pair  of  boots  !  He  attributed 
the  forgetfulness  to  the  unsettled  state  of  his  mind,  owing 
to  the  desertion  of  his  spouse,  and  as  there  was  no  help 
for  it  we  had  to  admit  the  excuse.  We  could  not  help 
thinking,  however,  that  if  we  went  on  at  this  rate,  we 
should  have  very  few  things  left  by  the  time  we  reached 
the  end  of  our  journey. 

Substituting  for  the  first  loss  an  air  thermometer,  we 
thought  of  inflicting  condign  punishment  upon  the 
rascal  for  the  serious  inconvenience  the  second  might 
cause  us,  when  we  were  relieved  from  the  necessity  of 
doing  so  by  a  huge  fly,  common  enough  in  the  thicket, 
and  whose  powerful  mandibles  cause  great  terror  to  the 
natives,  which  fixed  upon  the  negligent  assistant  and 
stung  him  severely  !  The  insect  somewhat  resembles  the 
Gapambo  (Dasypogon  Capambo  ?)  or  ox-fly,  but  is  consi- 
derably larger.  Its  sting,  which  is  very  venomous,  is 
immediately  followed  by  inflammation  and  acute  pain, 
that  occasion  serious  inconvenience.  Naturalists  call  it 
Synagris  comuta,  but  we,  among  ourselves,  dubbed  it  the 
pest  of  the  woods! 

It  was  on  the  7th  of  March  that  we  again  joined 
company  and  shook  hands  on  the  bank  of  the  Gamba 
rivulet. 

Immediately  on  our  arrival  we  became  sensible  of  a 
most  horrible  stench,  which  made  us  suppose  that  some 
flesh  was  about  in  an  advanced  stage  of  decomposition  ; 
but  we  learned  upon  inquiry  that  it  was  due  to  a  visitation 
of  a  strange  species  of  black  ants,  nearly  half  an  inch  in 
length,  that  had  invaded  the  camp   and  which  emitted 

c  2 


20 


West  and  Central  Africa 


the  most  pestiferous  smell  as  they  were  destroyed  by  the 
men.     There    was   nothing   better  to  be  done  than  to 


PLUNGING   INTO   THE   THICK    GRASS. 


escape  the  infliction  by  flight,  and  on  the  very  day  of 
our  arrival  we  consequently  set  forth. 


Ta  la  -  Mogongo. 


21 


Before  us  rose  the  vast  heights  of  Tala-Mogongo, 
with  spurs  that  jut  out  into  the  plain  like  huge  promon- 
tories, whose  precipitous  sides,  tinged  by  oxide  of  iron, 
have  the  appearance  of  titanic  walls. 

Following   the  steep  and  broken  track  which  wound 


FOLLOWING   THE    STEEP   AND    BROKEN   TRACK. 


about  the  flanks  of  the  mountain,  now  clinging  to  a  mossy 
trunk,  now  to  a  branch  that  offered  a  friendly  hold,  we 
succeeded,  in  carrying  our  reduced  weight  over  the 
asperities  that  lay  between  the  valley  and  the  practicable 
heights. 


22  West  and  Central  Africa. 

We  halted  upon  a  little  platform  to  enjoy  the  splendid 
panorama  unrolled  before  our  delighted  eyes.  The  in- 
clination of  the  slope  was  about  45°,  and  it  was  clothed 
with  wood  of  a  dark  green  colour,  so  thickly  that  not  a 
yard  of  ground  was  distinguishable.  The  very  trunks  of 
the  tamarinds,  acacias,  and  taculas  were  invisible  from 
the  wealth  of  foliage  that  surrounded  them.  From  the 
base  of  this  richly- wooded  mountain  ran  on  and  on,  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  vast  savannas  which  presented 
every  gradation  of  green  and  blue  according  to  the 
distance  from  the  point  of  vision,  covered  at  the  outset 
with  a  labyrinth  of  tree-trunks,  and  intersected  further 
on  by  meandering  streams  which  occasionally  glittered  as 
they  were  caught  by  the  light,  and  then  were  lost  again. 
The  picture  was  further  adorned  by  several  lofty  moun- 
tains, such  as  the  Bongo  and  the  serried  heads  of  the 
Yongo  range,  that  stood  out  in  bold  relief "  against 
the  sky,  and  the  sun  had  arrived  at  that  point  in  the 
heavens  when  it  flooded  the  whole  scene  with  golden, 
transparent  hues,  which  had  the  effect  of  intensifying, 
without  destroying,  the  other  lovely  colours  of  the 
landscape ! 

For  half  an  hour  we  stood  wrapt  in  wonder  and 
admiration  before  the  lovely  prospect,  and,  as  is  not  un- 
frequently  the  case  when  contemplating  similar  marvellous 
works  of  the  beneficent  Creator,  it  brought  to  us  a 
peace  and  serenity  of  mind  to  which  we  had  long  been 
strangers. 

There  in  the  distance  lay  the  mysterious  Cuango, — 
there  the  lands  of  the  Chinje, — yonder  rose  the  mountains 
of  the  Peinde, — all  abounding  in  strange  problems,  and 
filled  with  an  unknown  people,  that  we  so  longed  to 
visit  and  explore  ! 

And  then  came  the  revulsion  of  feeling  born  of  our 


A  Question  of  Time.  23 

recent  trials  and  disappointments,  and  almost  together  we 
exclaimed, — 

"  Those  infernal  Ban-gala  !  " 

But  is  it  in  the  nature  of  things  we  inquired,  that  so 
many  thousand  souls  can  remain,  in  an  age  of  civilization 
like  the  present,  when  the  spirit  of  progress  is  abroad 
in  the  world,  steeped  in  ignorance  and  slavery,  a  prey  to 
a  few  wretched  tyrants,  not  a  whit  more  enlightened 
than  themselves,  but  on  whom  superstition  and  fear 
have  bestowed  absolute  and  irresponsible  power  ! 

And  the  answer  came,  in  the  strong  conviction  of  our 
minds,  in  words  as  plain  as  though  they  had  been  uttered 
by  a  voice, — 

"It  is  but  a  question  of  time  !  " 


NATIVE   BOX. 


24  West  and  Central  Africa. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Limits  of  Cassange — Native  justice — Reflections  upon  the  African 
character — The  rise  and  course  of  the  Cambo — The  African  opium 
— The  insect  world — Breaking  up  of  the  encampment — Capulca 
again — Lake  Utumba — Deceptive  medlars — N'Dala  Samba  and 
T'Chica — Jose  do  Telhado  and  mortality  of  the  Europeans  in 
Africa  —  Cuango  and  Cuanza — Divisional  line  of  their  waters — 
Cha-Landu  and  exactions  of  the  petty  sovas — The  Ambaquista, 
distinctive  features,  habits,  importance,  fondness  for  scribbling — 
Ascent  of  the  morro  Bango — Dr.  Max  Buchner,  the  German 
explorer — A  queer  ecclesiastic — The  Lu-calla  and  Lianzundo  cata- 
ract— Duque  de  Braganca  and  a  dinner  with  Captain  A.  Silverio. 

We  were  at  length  out  of  the  territory  of  the  jag  gas  of 
Cassange,  and  away  from  the  influence  of  those  im- 
portunate Ban-gala  and  of  their  terrible  climate,  for 
though  under  the  parallel  we  had  now  reached  there  was 
little  to  be  said  in  favour  of  its  salubrity,  the  basin  of 
the  Cuango  must  be  considered  perfectly  pestilential. 
Tn  spite  of  this,  we  more  than  once,  having  somewhat 
recovered  from  our  fatigue,  half  made  up  our  minds  to 
turn  back,  and  try  again,  but  better  counsels  prevailed  ; 
so  definitively  turning  our  backs  upon  the  inhospitable 
region,  we  pursued  our  way. 

All  our  crew  expressed  a  lively  sentiment  of  satisfaction 
at  having  escaped  out  of  the  clutches  of  those  grasping 
and  cruel  tribes  amongst  which  we  had  struggled  so 
long,  and  being  relieved  from  the  apprehension  of  another 
attempt  to  force  a  passage  through  them,  the  caravan, 
with  Capulca  in  front,  and  ourselves  bringing  up  the  rear, 


Rescue  of  a  Prisoner.  25 

plunged  into  the  masses  of  verdure  in  capital  temper. 
The  abundance  of  low  marshy  ground  and  pools  of 
stagnant  water  makes  this  part  of  the  country  simply 
calamitous  and  we  did  not  envy  the  possessions  of  N'Dala 
Quissua,  who  is  the  ruler  of  the  district. 

We  had  not  traversed  more  than  three  miles  of  the 
road  than  we  quickened  our  steps  on  hearing  loud 
shrieks  and  cries  proceeding  from  the  forest. 

Cassai,  the  hound,  on  seeing  us  run,  started  on  ahead  and 
struck  into  a  by-path  as  if  to  show  us  the  way.  A  few 
minutes  brought  us  to  a  quilombo,  outside  which  a  little 
crowd  had  gathered.  The  chief,  as  we  were  informed, 
was  not  present,  and  in  answer  to  our  inquiries  about  the 
shrieks  we  had  heard,  we  were  told  with  the  usual 
circumlocution  that  the  carriers  were  amusing  them- 
selves with  chastising  an  unfortunate  for  not  paying  his 
debts. 

The  curious  part  of  the  matter  was,  that  he  was  per- 
fectly innocent,  for  we  learned  on  rescuing  him  that  an 
inhabitant  of  the  village  to  which  he  belonged  had  some 
time  before  obtained  something  to  eat  at  the  senzala  and 
not  paid  for  it,  and  that  they  had  seized  upon  him  to 
settle  the  score. 

His  body  was  in  a  miserable  state  from  the  blows  he 
had  received,  but  when  he  found  himself  among  friends, 
he  seized  a  knife  and  seriously  wounded  one  of  his  per- 
secutors. 

Having,  after  some  trouble,  quelled  the  disturbance, 
we  resumed  our  journey,  taking  the  late  prisoner  with 
us  as  a  guide  to  the  place  for  which  we  w^ere  bound, 
situated,  as  he  averred,  at  no  great  distance  on  the  road. 

It  is  worthy  of  remark  that  we  rarely  observed  among 
the  natives,  scars  of  wounds  arising  from  individual 
dissensions  among  them.     At  the  outset  we  took  this  as 


26  West  and  Central  Africa. 

a  favourable  sign,  showing  their  little  tendency  towards 
crimes  of  violence.  With  wider  experience,  however, 
we  considerably  modified  this  opinion,  and  attributed 
the  fact  rather  to  indifference.  The  natives,  indeed, 
seldom  trouble  themselves  about  others.  Personal 
interest  with  them  is  everything,  and  that  satisfied, 
rightly  or  wrongly,  they  care  little  for  aught  else.  From 
this  indifference  to  others,  rivalry  occurs  only  in  special 
cases.  Those  games  and  competitions  wherein  dexterity 
is  the  moving  spirit,  that  love  of  distinction  and  thirst 
for  admiration,  which  in  Europe  not  unfrequently  lead 
to  quarrels  and  disputes  are  pretty  nearly  unknown 
among  the  natives  of  Africa.  And  thus  it  happens  that 
the  chief  sources  of  envy  and  jealousy  being  dried  up, 
their  consequences  disappear.  The  negro  has,  besides,  a 
natural  horror  at  the  sight  of  blood,  and  therefore  re- 
frains from  committing  an  assault  upon  his  neighbour, 
not  from  any  high  principle  of  kindness  or  compassion, 
but  from  timidity  and  cowardice.  When,  however,  he  is 
brought  into  contact  with  civilization,  and  other  interests 
and  stimulants  are  awakened  within  him,  he  too  fre- 
quently becomes  a  dangerous  assassin.  Hence  it  is  that 
crimes  of  violence  are  most  frequently  committed  by  those 
tribes  who  reside  among  Europeans,  and  who  are  to  be 
found  in  great  commercial  marts. 

At  half-past  one  on  the  8th  day  of  March,  1879,  we 
arrived  at  a  vast  cane-bed,  pointed  out  by  our  guide  as 
the  source  of  the  river  we  were  seeking. 

Having  set  up  the  abba  on  the  brink  of  the  marsh,  we 
took  observations  to  determine  the  longitude  and  varia- 
tion, and  while  chewing  a  manioc  root,  and  remarking 
for  the  hundredth  time  that  it  tasted  very  much  like  a 
chestnut,  we  jotted  down  the  following  particulars  in  our 
diary : — 


The  course  of  the  River  Cambo.  2J 

The  Cambo  rises  on  the  slope  of  Serra  Catanha  in 
marshy  ground  that  receives  the  drainage  of  the  upper 
plateau,  and  running  northwards  between  the  lands  of 
Quifucussa  and  Catalla  Canjinga,  penetrates  into  the 
Jinga,  and  finally  empties  itself  into  the  Cuango  in 
latitude  7'  40°,  about  seven  miles  below  the  great  cataract 
of  Suco-ia-muquita  or  Suco-ia-n'buncli,1  in  the  territory 
of  the  Tembo  Aluma,  and  above  two  others  possessed  by 
the  same  river.  It  is  the  second  affluent  of  the  Cuango 
after  the  Lui,  and  is  erroneously  represented  on  the  old 
maps,  where  it  is  made  to  run  through  the  low  grounds 
of  the  Yongo  and  Holo  in  a  mean  direction  north-north 
east. 

We  were  just  preparing  to  make  a  series  of  magnetic 
observations  in  the  interest  of  science,  which  nowadays 
demands  so  much  of  the  explorer,  when  the  rain  quite 
upset  our  arrangements,  and  compelled  us  to  leave  the 
task  to  future  travellers,  whom  we  trust  may  be  blessed 
by  better  weather.  As  to  ourselves,  we  were  assailed  by 
a  fierce  thunder-storm,  followed  by  a  deluge  of  rain,  that 
compelled  us  to  keep  indoors,  to  the  unconcealed  delight 
of  our  followers,  who,  not  in  the  slightest  degree  in- 
convenienced by  the  clouds  of  thick  smoke  that  filled  the 
confined  space  of  the  huts,  passed  the  pipe  round  from 
mouth  to  mouth  in  hearty  enjoyment  of  the  tobacco, 
which  is  very  abundant  in  the  country  of  the  Bondos. 

As  long  as  they  confined  their  attention  to  wholesome 
tobacco  it  was  all  very  well,  but  most  of  them  soon 
abandoned  the  tobacco-pipe  for  the  mu-tojpa,  a  horn  con- 
taining water  and  a  bowl  used  for  the  consumption  of  the 
fatal  liamba  (Cannabis  sativa). 

The  smokers  sit  round  an  ample  brazier,  whence,  with 
small  tongs,  they  draw  out  a  bit  of  charcoal  and  place  it 
1  Suco-ia-u'bundi  seems  to  express  a  perturbation  of  sight. 


28  West  and  Central  Africa. 

on  the  top  of  the  bowl  containing  the  liamba.  One  of 
them  puts  the  mu-topa  to  his  lips,  and  takes  four  or  five 
strong  pulls,  inhaling  the  precious  smoke,  whose  effect  is 
to  cause  a  violent  fit  of  coughing,  apparently  all  the  more 
satisfactory  if  it  nearly  suffocates  him  in  the  process. 
The  instrument  is  then  passed  on  to  his  neighbour,  who 
draws  it  till  he  remains  quite  stupefied,  his  eyes  glazed 
while  he  breathes  as  if  in  a  deep  sleep.  The  water  in 
the  horn  bubbles  as  the  smoke  is  drawn  through  it,  but 
the  sound  is  soon  lost  in  the  hubbub  of  voices,  each  man 
clamorous  for  his  turn.  Meanwhile,  those  who  have 
already  had  their  pull  become,  as  it  were,  mad-drunk, 
throw  themselves  about,  talk  and  laugh  in  the  most 
excited  fashion,  the  while  the  saliva,  produced  by  the  in- 
halation of  the  burning  hemp,  runs  from  their  mouths 
and  makes  them,  with  the  contortion  of  their  features, 
dreadful  objects  to  contemplate. 

We  tried  our  best  over  and  over  again  to  put  a  stop 
to  the  practice,  for  the  sight  of  the  men  disgusted  while 
it  pained  us ;  but  it  was  of  no  use,  for  they  only  hid 
themselves  away  in  the  woods  and  indulged  in  the  dele- 
terious habit  in  secret. 

An  entomologist  would  have  been  in  ecstasies  with 
the  variety  of  specimens  to  be  met  with  in  this  region. 
When  the  rain  was  over,  thousands  of  butterflies,  adorned 
with  wings  of  every  variety  of  colour,  darted  about  the 
wood,  and  excited  our  wonder  and  admiration,  and  we  only 
wished  that  the  illustrious  director  of  the  Museum  at 
Lisbon  could  have  been  there  to  enjoy  the  spectacle. 

At  one  moment  there  fluttered  past  us  the  Synagris 
comuta,  already  spoken  of ;  at  another  the  ma- 
cunhapamba  or  Odonata.  On  the  green  stalks  of  the 
tall  grass  we  recognized  the  mu-curulumbia  Mantis, 
nearly  four  inches  in  length,  climbing  towards  its  curious 


Entomology 


29 


nest,  and  hard  by  we  saw  the  still  more  curious  home  of 
the  Capata-ieu,  constructed  of  small  fragments  of  stick, 
arranged  like  a  fluted  column  and  fastened  securely 
together  by  a  web.  These  being  burnt,  produce  an  ash 
reputed  of  great  value  for  the  preservation  of  the  teeth, 
which  may  indeed  be  gathered  from  the  native  name,  ieu, 


-•i^>:fe:£r>^ 


)K1NG    THE    FATAL    LIAM 


signifying  a  tooth.  On  the  ground  the  gongolo  (Sjnros- 
treptus  gongolo)  were  crawling  slowly  by  the  side  of 
Gapricornios  ;  more  than  one  variety  of  Scarabeus  engaged 
on  their  laborious  task  of  conveying  along  enormous  balls, 
formed  of  matter  dropped  by  herbivorous  animals, 
wherein  to  preserve  their  eggs. 


30  West  and  Central  Africa. 

The  termites,  ever  hard  at  work,  were  reconstructing 
their  habitations.  Strange  Arachnidios,  such  as  the  silk- 
weaying  spider,  ma-vuvi  (Nephita  bragantina)  were  swing- 
ing from  spray  to  spray,  fastening  them  together  with 
their  delicate  yellow  webs.  The  active  and  obscure 
Xylophages  were  mining  to  the  very  heart  the  knotted 
trunks  of  ancient  trees.  Colossal  m'bangarala  (Cicadas), 
in  continual  motion,  perfectly  confused  us  with  their  pecu- 
liar sharp  whirr,  interrupted  every  now  and  then  by  the 
still  more  piercing  notes  of  the  n'gumbe,  a  bird  that  we 
took  to  be  the  Gorythaix  paulina.  The  wonderful  ma- 
ribundo  or  ma-libundo  (Pelopceus  spirifex)  whose  clay 
nests  might  be  seen  sticking  about  the  beams  of  the 
houses,  were  also  among  our  numerous  acquaintance. 
After  depositing  in  each  nest  an  egg  and  food  for  the 
support  of  the  progeny  when  it  comes  out,  the  parents 
close  it  up  and  abandon  it  to  its  fate.  Not  'the  least 
singular  peculiarity  about  the  creatures  is,  the  apparent 
absence  of  females  among  them,  as  all  those  caught  were 
males.  We  also  saw  buzzing  about  innumerable  bees,  and 
certain  small  honey-producing  flies,  the  latter  a  perfect 
scourge  of  the  encampments,  which  assail  the  tired 
traveller  in  such  myriads  that  he  eats  flies,  drinks  flies, 
sneezes  them  out  of  his  nose,  and  coughs  them  out  of  his 
throat,  until  he  is  half  maddened  with  the  visitation. 

At  six  o'clock,  when  the  sun  disappeared,  and  the 
earth  was  immersed  in  shadow,  the  insect  world  retired, 
and  silence  fell  upon  the  scene.  We  then  sought  the 
driest  place  in  our  little  huts,  whereon  to  extend  our  tired 
limbs — spread  our  leopard-skins  upon  the  grass,  drew 
our  caps  down  upon  our  ears,  and  invoking  divine 
Morpheus,  prayed  of  him  the  gift  of  tranquil  sleep.  This 
he  was  good  enough  to  grant  us,  and  the  night  passed 
without  any  of  those  disturbing  influences  which  may  be 


Awakening  of  the  Encampment.  3 1 

interesting  to  a  reader,  but  are  far  from  pleasant  to  a 
weary  explorer. 

With,  the  first  red  blush  of  morn  we  rose  and  soon  woke 
up  the  entire  encampment,  when  once  again  was  re- 
peated the  picturesque  scene  of  the  starting  of  the  cara- 
van, so  full  of  incident  and  of  a  certain  wild  charm  to  the 
traveller  who  plays  his  part  therein. 

After  a  prolonged  performance  of  stretching  of  limbs 
and  yawning  of  huge  jaws  that  are  fearful  to  behold, 
an  incessant  chatter,  joined  to  that  peculiar  sniggering 
laugh  of  the  negro,  accompany  the  efforts  of  some  of  the 
men  to  revivify  the  smouldering  embers  of  the  fires,  in 
order  to  warm  the  food  prepared  the  night  before ;  while 
other  hands  are  busy  in  rolling  up  the  mat-beds,  which 
with  joints  of  meat  and  bags  of  fuba  compose  the  bag- 
gage of  some  of  the  carriers. 

The  coffee  for  the  chiefs  is  then  set  to  boil. 

The  goods,  drawn  from  the  heap  where  they  have  been 
piled,  are  taken  out  by  their  respective  porters,  and  secured 
with  their  other  impedimenta  to  the  mangos. 

The  scene  becomes  a  very  lively  one ;  all  are  at  work, 
or  pretending  to  be  so,  and  a  general  chorus  of  voices,  in 
every  key,  from  the  deep  bass  of  the  stalwart  carrier  to 
the  faint  treble  of  a  puling  child,  is  echoed  far  and  wide. 

Meanwhile,  the  light  increases  in  intensity.  Thousands 
of  birds  are  upon  the  wing,  and  gladdened  by  the  sight 
of  day  are  filling  the  woods  with  melody.  The  mist, 
which  has  hitherto  hung  over  the  horizon,  is  now  moving 
upwards  and  melting  in  the  air,  allowing  the  eye  to 
embrace  the  outline  of  the  distant  hills,  from  behind 
which  soon  grandly  rolls  the  orb  of  day,  which  in  those 
latitudes,  north  or  south  of  the  equator,  rises  approxi- 
mately at  ten  minutes  past  or  ten  minutes  before  six. 

The  hot  coffee  is  taken,  to   the   great  comfort  of  the 


3  2  West  and  Central  Africa. 

inner  man ;  the  women  with  their  infants  at  their  backs 
and  baskets  on  their  heads  are  waiting  to  fall  in ;  the 
cook  has  gathered  np  his  last  traps  and  seen  them  duly 
secured;  the  guide  marshals  his  men  who  are  to  act  as 
a  vanguard,  and  at  a  signal  takes  the  lead ;  others  soon 
follow ;  a  last  look  round  is  given  to  see  that  nothing  has 
been  left  behind,  and  in  a  few  minutes — of  the  encamp- 
ment so  recently  full  of  noisy  life — there  remain  but  a 
couple  of  dozen  huts,  looking  already  strangely  solitary, 
and  a  few  heaps  of  smoking  ashes. 

Plunging  into  the  woods,  with  our  strength  renewed 
by  the  night's  rest,  we  make  our  way,  deriving  no 
small  assistance  from  our  bill-hooks  in  widening  the  path 
and  removing  too  obtrusive  thorns,  while  we  philosophize 
on  the  marvels  of  creation  and  dilate  on  the  advantage  of 
a  bit  of  adhesive  plaster  on  our  corns  ! 

These  early  morning  tramps  through  the  grass  and 
forest  land  have  doubtless  a  charm  of  their  own,  but  as 
certain  drawbacks  modify  every  pleasure  in  this  world,  so 
we  discover  that  tall  grass  laden  with  water  and  satu- 
rated trees  which  the  slightest  wind  puts  in  motion, 
and  thereby  creates  an  artificial  rain  beneath,  may  contri- 
bute in  the  end  to  make  a  man  feel  very  uncomfortable. 

Still  we  pushed  on  in  good  spirits,  buoyed  up  with 
the  hope  that  we  should  soon  be  in  the  open  where  the 
warm  sun  would  dry  our  clothing  and  a  good  meal  would 
fortify  our  stomachs,  when  suddenly  there  broke  upon  the 
mind  of  Capulca  a  reflection  that  could  not  but  interest  us 
very  deeply ;  namely,  upon  what  we  were  to  expend  the 
splendid  appetite  that  our  morning's  march  had  made 
wonderfully  keen  !  But  one  pound  of  fuba,  it  appeared, 
was  all  he  could  offer  for  the  refreshment  of  two  hungry 
men,  seasoned  with  as  much  fresh  air  as  we  chose  to 
throw  in  ! 


The  colossal  Lughias.  3 3 

It  was  really  too  bad,  and  the  fellow  seemed  to  make 
quite  a  virtue  of  the  fact  that  he  had  only  just  thought  of  it ! 

Our  disappointment  was  so  great  that  we  had  scarce 
eyes  or  admiration  left  for  the  many  beauties  that  met 
our  view  as  we  neared  the  borders  of  the  forest  and  got 
upon  clearer  ground,  so  all-engrossing  was  the  subject  of 
an  empty  stomach  with  nothing  to  put  into  it ! 


THE    COLOSSAL    LUGHIAS. 


And  yet  how  beautiful  were  the  colossal  lughias,  with 
their  green  and  tender  fruit,  and  wide-spreading  branches, 
beneath  which  hundreds  of  men  could  find  an  easy  shelter ; 
how  charming  were  the  mu-anza,  covered  with  the  won- 
derful bark  so  useful  for  dyeing  leather ;  how  marvellous 
were  the  varieties  of  thorns  and  underwood,  here  present- 
ing spongy  heads,  and  there  glowing  with   flowers,   as 

VOL.   11.  d 


34  West  and  Central  Africa. 

remarkable  to  the  sight  as  to  the  smell ;  but  alas  !  none  of 
these  were  good  to  eat,  and  we  were  getting  so  hungry 
that  half  their  picturesqueness  was  swallowed  up  in  the 
great  absorbing  thought  of  food. 

Cursing  the  negligence  of  that  very  trying  individual, 
Capulca,  and  envying  the  philosophy  with  which  our  com- 
panions in  misfortune  solaced  themselves  with  their  pipes, 
we  drew  our  belts  all  the  tighter  to  prevent  the  emptiness 
of  our  stomachs  from  being  too  apparent,  and  still 
trudged  on,  the  sun,  as  it  made  giant  strides  in  the 
heavens,  setting  us  the  example. 

Strange  as  it  may  appear,  our  black  thoughts  were 
gradually  dissipated  amid  the  constant  change  of  scene, 
and  eluding  the  pangs  of  hunger,  we  followed  the  ill- 
defined  track  which  edged  the  forest,  now  stopping  to 
trim  our  pipes,  now  stumbling  over  the  irregularities  of 
the  ground. 

But  these  pastimes  had  not  been  of  many  hours 
duration,  when  an  unexpected  disaster  overtook  us.  We 
had  just  entered  upon  an  immense  slimy  plain — a  perfect 
bog  indeed,  which  the  guide  informed  us  bore  the  name 
of  Lake  Utumba — when  one  of  us  went  in  up  to  his 
knees,  and  on  the  other  attempting  to  assist  him,  both 
fell  flat  upon  our  faces  in  the  slime  !  Nose,  mouth,  eyes, 
and  ears,  were  choked  with  the  sticky  mud,  and  we  had 
the  satisfaction,  when  we  could  recover  our  vision,  to 
discover  our  followers  on  the  broad  grin  at  our 
disaster. 

Our  mouths  had  been  thus  unexpectedly  filled,  and 
yet  we  were  unsatisfied  ;  nor  did  the  ghost  of  a  senzala 
appear  to  gladden  us.  At  four  o'clock,  quite  fagged 
out,  we  were  compelled  to  stop  and  construct  our 
camp. 

No    sooner   were   we    installed,    than    Capulca    (that 


A  deceptive  Fruit.  35 

genius  for  discoveries)  strolled  off  along  the  bank  of  a 
neighbouring  rivulet,  the  Cu-ji,  and  ten  minutes  later 
came  running  back  radiant  with  joy,  holding  up  some- 
thing in  his  hand.  On  drawing  nearer  he  showed  us,  with 
great  glee,  a  handful  of  some  yellow  fruit,  not  unlike 
in  appearance  the  European  medlar.  We  seized  it  with 
avidity  and  crammed  it  into  our  mouths ;  and  then 
half  a  dozen  men,  proceeding  to  the  tree  whence  it  was 
taken,  gathered  and  ate  a  considerable  quantity. 

At  night-fall  the  fires  were  lighted,  and  we  soon 
turned  in  for  our  desired  rest.  About  eight  o'clock  we 
were  startled  by  sundry  sighs  and  groans,  which  grew 
louder  as  we  listened,  and  mingled  with  these  were  other 
sounds  not  uncommon  on  board  a  passenger-ship  when 
the  vessel  is  lurching  heavily. 

As  we  started  up  to  learn  the  cause,  we  were  conscious 
of  a  feeling  in  the  stomach,  as  if  it  were  bursting, 
followed  by  a  frightful  colic,  which  made  us  roll  about 
in  pain.  The  murder  was  out,  we  had  been  half 
poisoned  by  the  unknown  fruit  we  had  so  heedlessly 
devoured ;  and  the  cook,  the  young  niggers,  and  such 
of  the  carriers  as  had  partaken  of  the  delusive  medlars, 
were  suffering  the  same  pains,  and  uttering,  the  cries  and 
groans  that  had  so  startled  us.  Fortunately,  we  were  all 
violently  sick,  and  having  got  a  little  sleep  after  ridding 
ourselves  of  our  indigestible  burthen,  we  rose  up  next 
morning  sadder,  but  wiser  men. 

We  had  a  gleam  of  hope  ere  setting  out  imparted  to 
us  by  Jose,  the  guide,  whose  stomach,  owing  to  a  fellow- 
feeling,  sympathized  with  our  own.  He  assured  us  that 
before  the  sun  set  we  should  reach  the  establishments  of 
N'Dala  Samba,  where  he  actually  possessed  an  uncle  ! 
a  revelation  and  a  relation  for  which  we  could  have  em- 
braced him  on  the  spot.     Nor  did  he   deceive  us   with 

l>  2 


36 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


false  hopes,  for  after  seven  and  a  half  miles'  march  we 
entered  T'Chica,  and  finally  reached  our  destination, 
pitching  oar  camp  close  to  two  farms,  where  we  were 
enabled  at  once  to  purchase  provisions. 

At  length  we  had  something  to  eat,  and  there  only 
remained  the  ceremony  of  cooking  it.  In  order  to 
mitigate  the  horrors  of  expectation,  and  discipline  our 
appetites,  somewhat  excited  by  the  previous  twenty- four 


A    ROAD-SIDE    CEMETERY. 


hours'  fast,  if  we  leave  out  of  the  accounb  those  medlars 
of  painful  memory,  we  sat  down  and  began  whittling 
some  sticks,  the  while  Jose's  uncle,  to  whom  we  had 
been  presented  in  due  form,  told  us  a  few  stories,  inter- 
spersed with  episodes  of  the  woods,  which,  od  more 
accounts  than  one,  we  refrain  from  presenting  to  our 
readers. 

We  were  rewarded  at  last  by  Capulca's  exclamation 
that  "dinner  was  ready,"  and  great  was  our  emotion  to 


Frightful  Mortality.  3  7 

see  him  draw  from  the  bubbling  cauldron  two  white  and 
well-fed  fowls,  which  he  placed  upon  the  board  ! 

In  ten  minutes  nothing  was  left  but  the  bones,  to  the 
great  astonishment  of  Jose  and  his  respectable  relative, 
who  craned  their  necks  in  vain  to  discover  if  any  frag- 
ments were  left  that  were  worth  consuming  ! 

On  our  recent  journey  hither  we  had  fallen  in  pretty 
frequently  with  the  burial-places  of  both  Portuguese  and 
Africans — a  sad  reminder  of  the  difficulty  of  keeping 
life  within  the  body  in  these  remote  districts,  where 
various  agents  of  trading-houses,  established  in  Malange, 
had  taken  up  their  quarters  with  a  view  to  induce  the 
caravans  from  the  interior  to  halt  for  refreshment  and 
secure  a  little  business. 

At  T'Chiea  we  visited  the  tomb  of  a  famous  Portuguese 
trader,  Jose  do  Telbado,  whose  reputation  for  probity  is 
still  preserved  among  the  natives.  The  monument,  that 
is  situated  in  the  middle  of  a  little  hamlet,  is  carefully 
kept  up  by  the  last  of  his  old  retainers,  and  was  not  only 
strewn  with  many  fragments  of  articles  used  by  the 
deceased,  but  was  made  pretty  by  a  variety  of  flowers  in 
bloom. 

The  mortality  in  this  part  of  the  continent  is  perfectly 
frightful.  The  miasmatic  influence  of  the  climate  does 
not  appear  so  intense  at  all  periods  of  the  year,  which  is 
intelligible  enough;  during  the  rainy  season,  the  elevated 
temperature  not  only  makes  the  emanations  from  the  soil 
far  greater,  but  causes  abundant  perspiration,  excites 
more  thirst,  and  renders  the  absorption  considerable, 
and  the  organism  being  thus  disturbed,  violent  and 
dangerous  sickness  is  the  result.  During  our  stay  in 
Cassange,  three  traders,  whereof  one  was  an  European, 
were  taken  off.  At  Malange,  a  firm  with  three  partners, 
and    having    a   branch    at    Cassange,    was    also    closed, 


$&  West  and  Central  Africa. 

owing  to  the  death  of  two  out  of  the  three  associates; 
and  we  were  forced  to  come  to  the  sad  conclusion,  that 
whatever  their  desirability  as  places  of  trade,  they  were 
but  little  fitted  for  the  well-being  or  requirements  of 
Europeans  in  respect  of  salubrity. 

Where  we  stood  we  found  ourselves  on  the  divisional 
line  of  the  Ouango  and  Cuanza  basins.  On  the  north, 
Camicungo  pours  its  waters  into  the  Congo-Zaire,  on 
the  east  the  Camoaxi  runs  through  the  Mucari  to  the 
Cuanza. 

The  caravan  being  duly  provisioned,  after  a  visit 
paid  to  Sanza,  we  started  in  a  south-westerly  direc- 
tion. 

We  were  now  in  the  district  of  Malange,  that  we 
intended  crossing  on  our  way  to  the  Duque  de  Braganca, 
whence  it  was  our  resolve  to  take  a  fresh  departure 
for  the  interior. 

Impenetrable  wood  was  met  at  intervals,  in  great  part 
under  water ;  and  in  spaces  where  the  ground  wras 
cleared,  the  land  was  frequently  inundated.  Traces  of 
game  appeared,  but  no  animals  were  seen ;  partridges 
and  wood-pigeons  were  tolerably  abundant,  but  so  shy 
that  we  could  not  get  a  successful  shot  at  them. 

Petty  sovetas  visited  us  by  the  dozen,  and  with  one  of 
them,  Cha-Landa,  we  had  a  serious  dispute.  Out  of 
mere  caprice  that  gentleman  took  a  fancy  to  the  great- 
coat one  of  us  was  wearing,  and  after  a  good  deal  of 
beating  about  the  bush,  he  made  application  for  it 
through  the  interpreter.  Irritated  by  our  refusal,  he 
blustered  to  such  an  extent  in  the  quilombo,  that  we  had 
to  show  him  the  outside  of  it. 

No  one  can  conceive  the  series  of  petty  difficulties  and 
annoyances  to  which  the  explorer  is  subject  in  these 
parts.     The  mere  sight  of    his  goods  arouses    all    the 


The  Ambaquista.  39 

cupidity  of  the  miserable  little  despots,  and  when  they 
cannot  satisfy  it  by  force,  they  resort  to  every  kind  of 
chicanery.  No  sooner  does  a  caravan  appear  at  any 
point,  than  up  spring  sovetas,  seculos,  delegates  of  the 
latter,  relatives  of  these,  and  so  on,  putting  forward  the 
most  absurd  claims ;  such,  for  instance,  as  the  taking  of 
a  couple  of  eggs  from  the  wayside,  for  which  they 
demand  whole  pieces  of  cloth  in  the  shape  of  fine.  It 
often  happens  that  the  sova,  who  appears  in  the  guise 
of  a  captain  in  the  army,  is  merely  a  private  in  one  of 
the  native  regiments  raised  by  the  Portuguese  govern- 
ment in  Africa,  who  gives  himself  the  airs  of  a 
general,  at  least,  is  surrounded  by  a  horde  of  worth- 
less characters,  and  iuvariably  attended  by  a  sort  of 
secretary  or  bully,  always  a  finished  knave,  selected  from 
among  the  Ambaquistas. 

And  now  that  we  are  upon  the  subject,  we  will  say  a 
few  words  about  this  noted  tribe,  a  sort  of  African 
Bohemians,  who  are  to  be  met  with  throughout  the 
country  from  Malange  onwards.  The  Ambaquista  is  in 
fact  the  dine  damnee  of  the  interior. 

One  of  the  surest  signs  whereby  he  may  be  recognized 
is  his  general  get-up,  which  is  outre  to  the  last  degree 
according  to  his  means  ;  another  is  the  mark  of  the 
small-pox  which  he  generally  bears  upon  his  face ;  and 
be  it  noted,  as  a  peculiarity,  that  they  who  are  so  marked 
are  more  cunning  than  foxes. 

Having  a  profound  knowledge  of  the  native  character, 
the  Ambaquista  makes  his  way  into  the  senzala,  ]oses 
little  time  in  captivating  the  good  graces  of  all  its  inmates, 
and  principally  of  its  Sova,  decides  disputes,  has  the 
cunning  to  maintain  the  opinion  of  superior  understand- 
ing with  which  he  is  credited,  amuses  the  ruler  with 
singular  stories  touching  the  manners   and  customs  of 


40  West  and  Central  Africa. 

Europeans,  gives  him  even  some  notions,  however9 
erroneous,  of  religion  and  of  "worship,  and  in  fact  creates 
himself  a  position.  The  circumstance  of  his  being  able 
to  write — for  a  good  many  of  his  countrymen  have  that 
accomplishment — helps  not  a  little  to  raise  him  in  the 
estimation  of  the  ignorant  savages,  and,  as  the  so-called 
secretary  of  the  Sova,  he  is  naturally  a  recipient  of  all 
his  secrets. 

Where  the  Ambaquista  is  not  attached  to  the  service 
of  any  ruler,  lie  makes  a  tolerable  living  by  wandering 
about  the  country  with  an  ink-horn,  pens,  and  paper, 
packed  among  the  other  articles  of  his  little  muJiamba, 
and  rarely  fails  to  obtain  his  two,  three,  and  even  some- 
times four  yards  of  cloth  for  the  letter  he  writes  at  the 
instigation  of  the  Sova  to  the  authorities,  and  occasion- 
ally from  the  latter  to  a  native  chief.  Among  them- 
selves, the  Ambaquistas  have  a  perfect  mania  for 
drawing  up  protests  and  memorials.  A  half-dozen  of 
them,  united  in  council,  will  indite  a  protest  or  two  every 
week. 

We  heard  a  little  story  upon  this  subject  which  is 
amusing  in  its  way,  and  illustrates  very  completely  both 
their  rage  for  scribbling  and  their  natural  caution  not  to 
commit  themselves.  Five  of  them  having  drawn  up  a 
very  lengthy  memorial  against  one  of  the  Portuguese 
authorities,  were  about  to  sign  it,  when  a  grave  discus- 
sion arose  amongst  them,  owing  to  the  disinclination  of 
each  to  be  the  first  to  affix  his  name. 

The  more  they  debated  the  question,  the  more  serious 
it  appeared,  and  they  were  about  to  destroy  the  docu- 
ment in  despair,  out  of  the  difficulty  of  finding  the  x  of 
the  problem.  Finally,  a  happy  thought  illuminated  the 
brain  of  one  of  them,  and  was  adopted  forthwith  as  a 
triumphant  way  out   of  the  difficulty ;  and  that  was  to 


T?Ma£era,{ 
F?  PalmeirirLhxLS  < 


13 


East  of  Greenwich 


"eller,  Uifv 


7W".,t.  <■+,»,      s^.W,*    .?, 


An  Ambaca  Gentleman, 


4i 


write  their  names  in   the  circumference  of   a  circle,  and 
therefore  without  an}r  order  of  precedence  ! 

The  portrait  we   present  to   our  readers   is  that  of  a 


AN    AMBACA    GENTLEMAN. 


very  superior  Ambaquista  indeed — a  trader  and  a   man 
of  means — a  very  gentleman  of  the  tribe. 

Returning  to  our   narrative,  Ave  now  found  ourselves 
not  far  from  the  town  of  Malange.     To  the   south  of  us 


42  West  and  Central  Africa. 

rose  Mount  Bango,  near  which  we  pitched  our  camp,  in 
order  to  enjoy  a  short  interval  of  rest,  and  make  the 
ascent  of  the  mountain  to  obtain  a  tour  oV  horizon. 

As  the  density  of  the  underwood  was  such  as  to  bar 
our  progress,  the  two  first  days  of  our  sojourn  were  em- 
ployed in  cutting  a  path  upwards — a  labour  wherein  our 
whole  caravan  was  employed,  while  we  ourselves  prepared 
the  scientific  apparatus  we  intended  to  convey  to  the 
summit.  The  ascent  was  made  on  the  third  day,  and  a 
very  hard  task  we  found  it ;  the  chest  labouring  like  the 
bellows  of  a  forge. 

It  was  a  grand  spectacle  from  the  top  as  the  mountain 
rose  in  solitary  grandeur  from  the  plain  to  a  height  of 
nearly  900  feet,  and  allowed  a  perfectly  uninterrupted 
view  of  the  verdant  savannas  through  which  the  Cuanza 
wound  its  serpentine  course.  Further  to  the  northwards 
was  visible  another  mountain  ;  on  the  western  horizon 
appeared  the  lofty  peaks  of  Tungo  N'Dongo,  not  unlike 
the  cupolas  of  some  gigantic  edifice ;  on  the  north-west 
the  mountains  of  Ambaca ;  on  the  north  rose  Serra 
Muhunzo,  and  on  the  south  lay  the  town  of  Malange,  all 
successively  marked  by  the  azimuth  needle  and  traced  on 
the  paper  when  the  latter  descended. 

Next  morning,  the  19th  of  March,  we  were  seated  at 
the  entrance  of  our  hut,  sketching  the  portrait  of  Master 
Jose,  the  guide,  who  had  put  on  a  large  hat,  and  enveloped 
himself  in  a  sheet  for  the  occasion,  while  his  uncle,  lying 
on  his  back  with  his  legs  in  the  air,  admiringly  looked 
on ;  when  there  suddenly  appeared  to  our  astonished  eyes 
an  European  gentleman,  mounted  on  an  ox,  and  attended 
by  two  or  three  negroes. 

As  he  dismounted,  we  hastened  to  meet  him,  while  con- 
jecture was  immediately  at  work  to  guess  the  name  and 
calling  of  the  fair  man  who  stood  before  us.     He  at  once, 


Dr.  Max  Buchner. 


43 


however,   satisfied  our  mental  inquiries  by   introducing 
himself. 

"  I  am  Dr.  Max  Buclmer,  a  German  explorer,  sent  on 
a  special  mission  to  the  country  of  the  Lunda,  where  I 
am  to  have  speech  of  Muata-Yanvo.  Being  at  Malange 
completing  my  staff,  and  waiting  for   certain   articles  I 


"1    AM    DR.    MAX    BUCHNER." 


have  to  take  with  me,  I  heard  of  your  arrival  here,  and 
therefore  came  over  with  the  double  object  of  making 
your  acquaintance  and  scaling  the  mountain  hard  by,  an 
ascent  I  have  promised  myself  to  make  ever  since  my 
entrance  into  the  country." 

Inviting  him  to  breakfast,  we  soon  sat  round  our  im- 
provised  table,  which  was  furnished  with  the   best  our 


44  West  and  Central  Africa. 

men  could  produce,  and  for  the  space  of  a  good  hour  we 
talked  upon  every  subject  imagination  could  suggest  to 
three  men  under  such  circumstances.  We  dwelt  upon 
the  advantages  of  certain  compasses,  of  the  excellent 
working  of  certain  other  theodolites,  of  direct  processes 
for  the  determination  of  the  longitude,  of  the  difficulty 
of  transport  in  the  forest,  of  the  most  recent  news  from 
old  Europe,  of  the  broad  awakening  interest  felt  by 
many  of  her  sons  for  African  exploration,  of  the 
disastrous  influence  of  the  climate  of  the  great  conti- 
nent ;  of  the  best  mode  of  warding  off  its  fevers,  and 
other  kindred  subjects,  that  made  the  time  fly  swiftly 
and  pleasantly. 

Dr.  Buchner  then  started  with  a  guide  we  lent  him  and 
made  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  by  the  track  we  had  cut 
for  ourselves.  At  four  he  returned,  in  a  devouring  fever, 
and  taking  a  hasty  leave,  he  retraced  his  steps -the  road 
he  had  come,  and  we  saw  him  no  more. 

We  ourselves  remained  a  few  days  longer  in  our  camp, 
hard  at  work  during  the  day  and  listening  to  extraordinary 
stories  at  night,  one  of  which  we  record,  without,  of 
course  vouching  for  its  accuracy. 

Some  time  previous  to  our  arrival  a  certain  celebrated 
ecclesiastic,  whose  name,  which  was  not  Portuguese,  was 
mentioned  to  us,  made  a  progress  through  this  part  of 
the  country,  and  played  such  extraordinary  pranks  that 
his  fame  extended  far  and  wide.  The  worship  that  this 
noble  priest  endeavoured  to  set  up  was  that  of  Bacchus, 
of  a  form  modelled  by  himself,  and  as,  instead  of  young 
converts,  he  only  met  with  old  roues  and  jealous  rivals, 
he  had  recourse  to  the  stick  !  The  natives,  becoming 
alarmed  at  this  energetic  proselytizer,  at  last  gave  him 
the  widest  possible  berth,  so  that  the  congregation  of 
this  extraordinary  pastor,  with   a    cloth  round  his  head 


The  Lianzundo  Cataract.  45 

and  a  flagon  under  his  arm,  got  gradually  smaller.  They 
called  him  IFganga-ia-puio  (the  fetichman  of  the  whites), 
and  at  last  got  so  terrified  at  the  stories  that  were  told 
of  his  evil  powers,  that  the  rumour  of  his  coming  was  the 
signal  for  a  general  flight.  Happily,  as  aguardente  grew 
scarce,  the  zeal  of  the  missionary  cooled,  and,  as  it  is  pre- 
sumed, after  mature  study  of  the  position,  he  concluded 
that  it  was  both  ridiculous  and  inglorious  to  run  the  risk 
of  the  martyrdom  of  deprivation  of  alcohol  for  the  stupid 
and  insignificant  result  of  four  baptisms  and  three  chrisms, 
he  shook  the  dust  of  an  ungrateful  country  off  the  soles 
of  his  feet  and  travelled  coastwise,  where  it  is  to  be  con- 
cluded he  found  a  more  genial  soil  and  unquestionably 
more  rum. 

On  resuming  our  journey  we  skirted  the  mountains  on 
our  right,  and  had  on  our  left  an  immense  plain,  inter- 
sected by  several  rivulets  with  marshy  banks,  where 
"  the  fowls  of  the  air  and  the  beasts  of  the  field  "  might 
roam  with  safety,  but  which  was  but  ill-fitted  for  the 
passage  of  the  human  foot.  We  traversed  in  six  days, 
by  the  border  of  the  Malange  district,  the  space  interven- 
ing between  our  point  of  departure  and  the  Duque  de 
Braganca,  sleeping  one  night  near  a  little  hamlet,  where 
a  Sova,  in  the  uniform  of  a  Spanish  soldier,  worried  us 
almost  beyond  endurance,  at  another  in  the  forest ;  now 
in  the  open,  and  again  on  the  bank  of  some  river. 

It  was  the  2Sth  of  March  that  we  sighted  for  the  first 
time  the  river  Lu-calla,  at  the  residence  of  Calandula, 
near  the  Faba  rapids  ;  and  on  the  29th,  having  gone  a 
little  up  stream  we  came  upon  the  great  Lianzundo 
cataract,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  foam,  ninety-seven  feet  in 
depth,  with  a  spring-like  vegetation  clinging  to  its  steep 
sides,  and  at  its  feet  a  thicket  of  orange-trees,  which  we 
depict  in  our  engraving. 


46  West  and  Central  Africa. 

On  the  30th  we  made  the  fortress  of  the  Duque,  and 
were  cordially  received  by  the  Portuguese  chefe,  Captain 
A.  Silverio,  a  courteous  gentlemen,  well  advanced  in 
years  that  had  been  expended  in  the  service  of  his  country. 
In  the  course  of  three  hours  our  quilombo  was  run  up 
and  put  into  something  like  order,  so  that  we  were 
enabled  to  accept  in  comfort  an  invitation  of  the 
captain's  to  dinner. 

We  were  much  struck  on  entering  the  residence,  at  the 
novel  aspect  it  presented.  A  vast  verandah,  not  unlike 
those  of  the  Arab  tembes,  having  been  traversed,  we 
reached  an  inner  pateo  or  court,  having  at  one  side  the 
kitchen,  partly  concealed  and  sheltered  by  bananas  and  a 
paling,  about  which  were  cutting  half  a  dozen  little 
niggers,  a  couple  of  pigs,  a  dozen  or  so  fowls,  a. monkey, 
a  gazelle,  and  a  parrot.  The  opposite  side  was  taken  up 
with  the  living-rooms  of  the  establishment,  and  -in  one  of 
them,  which  did  duty  as  drawing  and  dining-room, 
appeared  the  welcome,  and,  to  us,  uncommon  sight  of 
a  long  table  covered  with  a  white  cloth,  having  dishes 
containing  smoking  viands  ranged  down  the  centre,  and 
a  couple  of  bottles  of  wine  at  each  corner ! 

The  succulent  food  brought  to  our  recollection  a  sub- 
ject we  had  frequently  discussed  when  we  had  nothing 
to  stay  our  hunger ;  and  we  unanimously  concurred,  at 
this  joyous  moment,  that  we  should  not  eat  merely  to 
live,  for  that  a  tender,  juicy,  delicately-browned  beef- 
steak produced,  in  its  consumption,  sensations  of  the 
mind  as  well  as  the  body  that  were  worthy  of  mature 
consideration. 

We  were  quite  touched  when  our  worthy  host  uttered 
the  simple  compliment,  "Will  you  please  be  seated?" 
and  the  first  spoonful  of  hot  soup  really  did  bring  tears 
into  our  eyes ;  we  recovered  courage,  however,  as  we  got 


A  civilized  Dinner 


47 


on,  and  before  half  an  hour  had  gone  by,  found  ourselves 
hob-nobbing  with  one  another  with  as  much  ease  as  if 
we  had  been  used  to  that  sort  of  thing  all  through  our 
adventurous  journey. 


NEST    OF    THE    CAPAT^-IEU. 


48  West  and  Central  Africa. 


CHAPTER   III. 

On  the  tramp  again — The  banks  of  the  Lu-calla  and  a  nice  dispute — 
Cateco,  the  hunter  of  wives — The  Jinga,  its  limits  and  importance 
— The  king,  titles  and  residence — Hierarchical  scale — Peculiar 
mode  of  bestowal  of  property — The  ma-lunga  and  quijinga — The 
Muco-N'Gola  or  Mona  N'Grola— Strange  head-dresses  and  queer 
pockets — On  the  summit  of  the  Serra  Catanha — A  love  episode 
and  its  unpleasant  close — Conjugal  relations — An  evening  discus- 
sion and  a  morning  flight— Mineral  wealth  of  the  Jinga — Mode 
of  preparing  cloth,  dwellings,  &c. — A  storm  in  the  forest,  and  a 
further  desertion  — Den  of  thieves — A  page  or  two  from  the  diary 
— A  tough  cow — Arrival  at  Cafuchila. 

Twenty-four  days  have  elapsed  since  the  memorable 
dinner  recorded  in  the  last  chapter,  the  same  scenes 
being  repeated  while  we  waited  for  the  cessation  of  the 
rains  ;  sometimes  absorbing  quinine  in  larger  or  smaller 
doses,  at  others  lying  in  bed  without  a  sight  either  of 
earth  or  sky. 

We  had  reached  the  26th  of  April,  exactly  532  days 
since  we  left  Benguella  for  our  journey  northwards,  but 
in  spite  of  our  mishaps  our  disposition  to  push  onwards 
remained  as  strong  as  ever.  We  considered  our  honour 
and  our  dignity  alike  embarked  in  the  solution  of  the 
problem  we  had  set  ourselves,  and,  determined  to  make 
our  constancy  overcome  the  difficulties  by  which  we 
were  beset,  we  made  all  preparations  for  a  departure  on 
the  first  favourable  opportunity.  The  weather  alone  now 
stood  in  our  way. 

In  order  again  to  reach  the  basin   of  the  Cuango  it 


An  zincomfortable  Strike.  49 

was  necessary  to  cross  great  part  of  the  kingdom  of  the 
Jinga — a  territory  that  our  informants  depicted  in  the 
darkest  colours,  whilst  they  could  scarcely  find  terms 
strong  enough  to  portray  the  exactions  and  tyranny  of 
the  supreme  ruler.  We  were  getting,  however,  quite 
case-hardened  in  our  scepticism,  and  resolved  to  judge 
for  ourselves. 

Thus  it  happened  that  at  daybreak  of  the  28th  of 
April,  1879,  without  even  waiting  for  the  preparation  of 
the  morning  meal,  we  set  off  for  the  margin  of  the  river, 
where  a  miserable  canoe  had  been  placed  at  our  disposal. 

The  banks  of  the  Lu-calla  are  almost  entirely  com- 
posed of  marsh,  so  that  we  had  no  choice  but  to  be  con- 
veyed upon  men's  shoulders,  whereof  several  brawny  ones 
were  at  once  offered  for  our  accommodation.  As  these 
offers  came  from  the  natives  of  the  district,  and  addi- 
tional hands  are  always  welcome,  we  gladly  accepted 
their  proposal,  our  guide  promising  them  a  couple  of 
yards  of  cloth  each  by  way  of  remuneration,  with  which 
they  appeared  to  be  perfectly  satisfied. 

When,  however,  we  were  about  half  way  through, 
the  cunning  rogues  struck  for  higher  wages,  and  vowed 
they  would  go  no  further ! 

In  Europe,  where  contracting  parties  have  reason  to 
be  discontented  with  the  working  of  a  contract,  it  is  a 
usual  thing  to  have  recourse  to  arbitration  to  settle  the 
dispute ;  but  as  that  was  not  the  custom  in  Africa,  and 
the  fellows  threatened  to  let  us  clown  in  the  mud  and 
deep  water  unless  their  demands  were  complied  with, 
we  were  forced  to  put  our  indignation  and  sense  of  the 
justice  of  our  ,  case  in  our  pockets  until  we  felt  firm 
ground  under  our  feet  again. 

We  were  then  near  the  residence  of  the  Sova  Zundo- 
ia-Faco,  into  which  we  entered  with  a  rush,  followed  by 

VOL.    II.  E 


50  West  and  Ceittral  Africa. 

the  mutinous  Jingas.  We  found  that  chief,  whom  we 
immediately  recognized  by  the  possession  of  a  battered 
old  hat,  squatted  on  the  ground  in  the  open  air,  adorn- 
ing the  sides  of  a  rough  kind  of  bench  of  his  own  manu- 
facture, his  Majesty  having,  apparently,  a  turn  for 
carpentry. 

Having  coolly  appropriated  the  bench  for  our  own 
use,  we  sat  down  on  it,  in  order  to  plead  our  cause, 
leaving  the  Sova  the  choice  of  the  ground,  and  for  two 
mortal  hours  we  discussed  the  question  of  our  agreement 
with  the  men,  which  terminated  in  our  being  compelled 
to  give  them  three  yards  each  instead  of  two. 

On  the  30th  of  April  we  had  run  up  our  quilombo 
near  the  dwelling  of  the  OWck-ia-Legho,  when  a  man 
introduced  himself  as  one  willing  to  act  as  a  guide. 

As  we  were  examining  him  from  head  to  foot,  he 
quietly  seated  himself,  and  began  to  relate  his  story. 
Having  the  "  gift  of  the  gab,"  and  being  as  well  versed 
in  gesticulation  as  a  Neapolitan,  he  had  uttered  in  ten 
minutes  quite  enough  to  fill  some  volumes,  and  had 
thrown  his  arms  and  legs  about  like  the  sails  of  a  mill 
in  a  heavy  gale,  during  the  whole  of  which  performance 
we  remained  perfectly  quiescent,  partly  from  a  feeling  of 
politeness,  but  more  through  not  understanding  a 
twentieth  part  of  what  he  said. 

When  he  had  finished,  our  interpreter  gave  us  a  brief 
summary  of  his  discourse.  According  to  his  own 
account  he  was  a  proficient  in  the  highways  and  by-ways 
of  the  district,  was  well  acquainted  with  sovas  in  general 
and  with  a  good  many  in  particular ;  was  one  of  the 
most  disinterested  members  of  his  profession  (that  of  a 
hunter),  which  he  had  adopted  from  inclination,  and 
whence  sprang  many  advantages,  the  chief  among 
which  being  the  ready  acquirement  of  many  wives  culled 


A  new  Giade.  51 

from  various   countries,   all  of  whom  were  passionately 
fond  of  him,  and  lived  in  perfect  harmony  with  each  other. 

As  we  regarded  his  sour  aspect  and  wrinkled  skin, 
we  could  not  but  think  that  some  of  these  African 
dames  must  be  rather  easily  contented. 

He  went  on  to  say  that  having  got  tired  of  one  of 
these  same  spouses,  with  whom  he  had  been  living 
through  the  rains,  he  had  resolved  to  go  northwards  for 
a  little  change  of  air,  and  in  order  to  see  another  of  his 
wives  whom  he  had  not  set  eyes  on  for  upwards  of  a 
twelvemonth. 

Well,  we  thought,  if  the  possession  of  a  number  of 
wives  can  be  considered  in  this  country  as  a  guarantee 
of  respectability,  here  is  a  respectable  man  par  excel- 
lence. A  nephew  of  our  visitor  who  stood  by  seemed 
almost  to  divine  our  meditations,  for  as  we  made  them 
he  gravely  nodded  his  head  in  the  affirmative. 

"  As  you  know  the  country  so  well,"  we  remarked, 
oblige  us  by  saying  which  you  consider  the  best  road  to 
the  territory  of  the  Hungo." 

"  By  taking  this  direction,"  he  answered,  pointing  to  the 
west-north-west,  "  and  passing  by  the  Serra  Catanha,  a 
man  would  find  himself  in  very  uncomfortable  quarters, 
as  it  is  the  district  of  the  Quibungo  Quiassama — a 
terrible  tyrant.  On  the  north-east  he  would  find  an 
even  worse  character  in  Tembo  Aluma ;  so  I  should 
advise  as  the  most  reasonable  step,  to  proceed  directly 
to  the  king's  court." 

"  The  king's  court  !  "  The  words  raised  our  sus- 
picions that  it  was  another  attempt  to  impose  upon  us. 
Still,  we  let  it  go ;  and  having  engaged  his  services,  we 
dismissed  him  for  the  night  with  the  words  : — ■ 

"  We  shall  start  northwards  on  the  morrow,  so,  at 
break  of  day,  be  in  readiness,  here." 

e  2 


52  West  and  Central  Africa. 

A  couple  of  "  calling  as  "  exchanged  between  us  put  an 
end  to  the  interview,  and  he  had  scarcely  retired  than 
we  found  ourselves  face  to  face  with  the  sova  of  the 
district,  one  of  the  most  silent  of  his  class  we  ever  met 
with.  As  we  had  just  as  little  to  say  to  him,  we  made 
him  a  present  of  six  yards,  and  then,  retiring  to  our 
huts,  we  posted  up  our  notes  and  went  to  bed,  passing  in 
a  sound  sleep  the  last  hours  of  the  month  of  April — the 
spring  time  of  the  dear  old  country. 

We  were  now  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Jinga  (a  queen 
of  which  country  figures  in  the  sonnets  of  Bocage),  now- 
adays a  mere  reflex  of  its  former  grandeur ;  it  is  divided 
into  three  provinces,  Sussa,  Danje,  and  Dongo,  and  has 
recently  received  an  acquisition  of  territory  in  the  shape 
of  the  Matamba  lands.  Its  boundaries  are  the  Cuango 
on  the  east,  and  the  Lu-calla  on  the  west ;  while  on  the 
north  it  is  limited  by  Hungo,  and  on  the  south  by  Holo. 
Its  commercial  importance  is  almost  nil. 

The  Jinga,  like  all  old  and  decaying  nations,  is  allow- 
ing itself  to  drift  along  the  downward  path  which  leads 
to  utter  ruin  and  annihilation.  The  autocrat  of  the 
Jinga  bears  the  title  of  king,  a  designation  which  struck 
us  as  rather  pretentious,  seeing  that  he  differs  but  little 
in  appearance  or  intellect  from  the  commonest  carrier. 
The  monarchs  of  the  country  are  always  styled  N'golas 
Quilluanjes  Quissambas,  though  they  have  their  own 
special  names,  that  of  the  reigning  king  being  Calunga 
N'Dombo  Acambo.  He  resides  in  a  senzala  pompously 
styled  a  "  court,"  surrounded  by  many  vassals,  dukes, 
counts,  marquises,  and  what  not,  whom  he  uses  for  his 
own  pleasure  and  advantage. 

The  Jinga  is  divided,  not  into  fiefs,  as  there  are  no 
direct  lords,  but  a  large  number  of  estates  frequently 
held  for  life,  and  which  as  they  fall  in  are  bestowed  by 


The  Jinga  Court.  53 

the  monarch  upon  whomsoever  he  thinks  fit.  He  is 
governed  in  his  choice  by  considerations  which  will 
appear  in  the  hasty  sketch  we  append  of  the  complicated 
hierarchical-social  scale  of  the  government. 

The  first  dignitaries  in  the  order  of  their  rank  are 
the  vundas  (a  species  of  duke);  the  second  the  candas 
(a  sort  of  count),  followed  by  quilluanjes,  znndos,  dambis, 
capelles,  catecos,  n'gola-n  boles  (a  kind  of  secretary), 
matomuzmnos,  &c,  who  occupy  the  estates  above  referred 


JINGA   TYPE. 


to,    surrounded    by   their    slaves,   and   form   the   royal 
suite. 

Whenever  one  of  these  personages  dies,  his  nearest 
of  kin  does  not,  on  account  of  his  relationship,  succeed 
him,  since  such  an  arrangement  would  not  suit  his 
Majesty's  views.  Various  wealthy,  ambitious  individuals 
are  sure  to  step  in  and  make  lumping  offers  for  the 
vacant  property,  which  is,  in  fact,  put  up  to  a  species  of 


54  West  and  Central  Africa. 

auction,  with  this  difference,  that  the  matter  is  held 
pending  sometimes  as  long  as  six  months,  in  order  that 
the  competitors  may  continue  pouring  their  valuable 
stores  into  the  king's  warehouses,  there  to  await  his 
decision,  and,  it  is  needless  to  say,  are  charged  pretty 
heavy  warehousage  in  the  shape  of  exactions. 

When  the  matter  is  finally  settled  the  successful  man 
is  undado  (invested  or  sworn-in),  and  receives  a  ma- 
lung  a1  (bracelet),  and  the  qui-jinga  or  ca-jinga  (cap), 
with  the  declaration  of  vunda  or  canda,  and  he  may  then 
in  his  turn  select  his  subalterns,  or  as  it  is  politely 
termed  may  appoint  m'jpembas  of  ma-tomuzumo  n'gola- 
n'bole,  &c.  A  personage  so  invested  need  only  doff  his 
qai-jinga  in  presence  of  the  king,  to  whom  he  always  does 
obeisance,  by  touching  the  ground  with  his  lips  and 
clapping  the  palms  of  his  hands  together.  He  may 
also  put  the  prefix  of  calunga  or  noble  to  his  name,  just 
as  the  monarch  himself  uses  the  term  of  mueniche. 
Finally,  repairing  to  his  estate,  he  becomes  lord  of  all  it 
contains. 

The  Jingas  style  themselves  Muco-N'Gola,  or  Mona- 
N'Gola.  In  shape,  they  are  well- formed  but  slender, 
very  dark  in  colour  and  of  a  uniform  tint.  They  affect  a 
great  variety  of  hair- dressing,  the  favourite  form  being 
a  great  bunch  on  the  top  of  the  head,  adorned  with 
bands,  braids,  plumes  of  feathers,  spiral  strips  of  brass, 
plates  of  the  same  metal,  beads,  &c. 

"We  were  considerably  amused  wifch  their  pockets, 
which,  owing  to  the  monstrous  size  of  their  coiffures  they 
arrange  on  the  tops  of  their  heads  with  the  opening 
behind  !     Into  this  they  thrust  every  small  article  the 

1  We  should  have  thought,  as  there  is  only  one,  that  qui-lunga  would 
have  been  the  more  correct  expression  ;  as,  however,  we  never  heard 
it  so  used,  we  give  it  as  we  found  it. 


Don  Jtcan  again.  55 

hollow  will  contain,  the  woolly  texture  of  the  hair  aiding 
considerably  to  keep  it  in.  Their  dexterity  in  putting 
away  anything  that  was  given  to  them  was  such  that  it 
appeared  on  our  first  acquaintance  with  these  people  very 
like  sleight  of  hand,  for  we  saw  the  upward  movement 
of  the  arm  to  the  back  of  the  head,  and  noted  the  hand 
come  back  empty ;  and  as  politeness  would  not  allow 
us  to  go  round  to  see  what  had  become  of  it,  we  at  last 
procured  an  answer  to  the  enigma  from  our  own  people. 

At  noon,  on  the  2nd  of  May,  under  a  blazing  sun,  we 
arrived  pretty  well  fagged  on  the  slope  of  the  Serra 
Catanha,  where,  under  the  shade  of  a  leafy  acacia,  we 
spent  nearly  an  hour  in  philosophical  meditation,  drying 
our  garments,  drenched  with  perspiration,  and  munching 
manioc  root. 

From  the  summit  of  the  mount  we  had  a  fine  view  of 
the  extensive  plains  of  the  kingdom  of  the  Jinga,  com- 
mencing by  the  Province  of  Dongo.  Senzalas,  scattered 
about  in  every  direction,  represented  the  estates  above 
alluded  to,  and  whereof  some  canda  or  vuncla,  with  a 
few  dozen  slaves  as  attendants,  was  the  lord  and  master. 
In  the  distance,  on  the  banks  of  the  Hamba,  rose  the 
pretended  court,  surrounded  by  the  dwellings  of  the 
king's  retinue,  while  numerous  flocks  and  herds  gave 
animation  to  the  green  hills. 

While  engaged  in  the  contemplation  of  this  beautiful 
scene  we  were  startled  by  a  tremendous  hubbub  in  the 
direction  of  the  senzala  and  at  once  hurried  hither  to 
learn  the  cause. 

We  might  have  guessed  as  much.  Don  Juan  was  at 
his  old  tricks  again,  and  we  could  not  help  thinking  that 
if  he  only  showed  in  the  field  of  danger  a  tenth  part  of 
the  boldness  which  distinguished  him  in  the  paths  of 
love,  he  would  have  made  a  famous  hero. 


56  West  and  Central  Africa. 

And  yet — to  look  at  him — lie  was  one  of  the  most  un- 
likely beings  to  command  success  in  those  same  paths 
that  the  eye  could  well  light  upon  ;  it  was  his  consum- 
mate impudence  and  vanity  that  spurred  him  on,  and 
made  him  frequently  successful  where  a  handsome  but  a 
modest,  retiring  man  would  not  have  had  the  ghost  of  a 
chance. 

He  was  short,  thin,  bow-legged,  prematurely  aged  by 
excesses  of  all  kinds;  bore  on  his  scraggy  neck  a  huge  head 
with  a  sinister-looking  face,  to  which  two  ill-shaped,  yellow, 
furtive  and  cunning  eyes  occasionally  lent  an  expression 
of  revolting  ugliness — certainly  not  removed  by  a  pair  of 
lips  of  enormous  thickness,  which  only  parted  to  show 
his  broken  and  irregular  teeth.  This  is  no  exaggerated 
portrait  of  Capulca,  whom  we  pompously  styled  our 
chef,  and  who,  in  spite  of  these  physical  defects,  was  the 
most  terrible  lady-killer  it  was  ever  our  fate  to  fall  in 
with. 

On  the  present  occasion,  time  hanging  rather  heavily 
on  his  hands — for  our  meals  were  not  of  that  extensive 
character  to  occupy  very  much  of  his  attention — he  con- 
ceived that  it  would  be  an  agreeable  pastime  to  bandy 
soft  speeches  with  some  of  the  lady  inhabitants  of  the 
district,  and  actually  persuaded  one  of  them  to  take  a 
stroll  with  him  in  the  fields.  Whether  at  her  invitation 
or  not,  it  matters  little,  he  accompanied  her  back  to  her 
dwelling,  and  was  just  entering  the  doorway  when  he 
almost  flattened  his  nose  against  the  master  of  the  house 
and  husband  of  the  lady,  who  at  once,  pouncing  upon  him, 
called  for  assistance  and  had  him  secured.  That  was 
Act  the  First. 

In  Act  the  Second  we  find  him  roaring  for  mercy  under 
the  infliction  of  a  dozen  lashes  or  so,  well  laid  on  by 
one  of  the  government  delegates ;  and  when  he  was  let 


Marital  Arrangements.  57 

loose  more  dead  than  alive,  the  scene  was  closed  by  his 
having  to  pay  a  thumping  fine  to  the  fair  one's  sposo. 

It  is  somewhat  in  this  fashion  that  most  of  their 
amorous  delinquencies  are  punished — the  lash  being 
spared  where  the  woman  is  at  fault,  but  vigorously 
applied  if  the  misdemeanant  be  a  man.  This  was  sum- 
mary justice,  we  thought,  with  a  vengeance  ;  yet  some- 
how it  commended  itself  in  many  ways  to  our  judgment, 
when  we  compared  it  with  some  of  the  long  and  tedious 
processes  with  which  we  had  become  familiar  in  old 
Europe. 

The  native  system,  however,  in  treating  offences 
against  the  marriage  laws  cannot  always  be  approved, 
as  the  following  instances  will  show :  A  lady,  becoming 
tired  of  daily  intercourse  with  her  lord,  clandestinely 
quits  bis  roof  and  finds  a  home  with  a  more  congenial 
companion.  The  husband,  in  order  to  remove  any 
difficulties  that  such  a  proceeding  might  involve,  seeks 
out  the  new  protector,  and  in  the  most  business-like  way 
demands  an  indemnity,  which  the  latter  invariably  pays. 
Should  he  be  averse  to  keep  the  frail  one,  he  pays  some- 
thing more,  in  accordance  with  an  amicable  arrangement 
between  the  parties,  and  in  this  case  the  husband  takes 
back  his  wife  without  any  disturbance  of  his  equanimity ; 
indeed,  the  gentlemanly  way  in  which  the  whole  affair  is 
conducted  is  beyond  all  praise. 

That  incorrigible  rascal,  Capulca,  elected  the  former 
course,  and  in  spite  of  his  sore  back,  after  he  had  paid 
his  fine  he  coolly  requested  that  the  caravan  might  be 
augmented  by  an  additional  member,  in  the  shape  of  his 
new  spouse  ! 

Abandoning  at  length  the  shade  of  the  friendly  acacia, 
where,  in  addition  to  our  cook's  escapade  we  had  a  few 
words  with  Cateco,  our  new  guide,  who  had,  by  accident 


58  West  and  Central  Africa. 

or  design,  mistaken  his  road,  we  camped  on  the  edge  of 
the  Serra  at  no  great  distance  from  the  residence  of  the 
noble  0<z7?<i<z-ria-Massango.  A  little  further  in  advance 
was  the  dwelling  of  another  of  these  lordlings,  called 
OWtZa-ria-Canzella,  a  perfect  bully  of  a  fellow,  hope- 
lessly given  up  to  drunkenness. 

This  latter  came  to  the  quilombo  to  visit  us,  at  the 
very  time  we  had  another  visitor  from  Duque  de  Bra- 
ganca,  a  trader  there  of  the  name  of  Figueiredo.  This 
gentleman  had  come  over  to  explore  the  neighbourhood 
in  our  company,  but  the  whole  of  the  day  till  nightfall 
was  taken  up  with  a  hot  discussion  between  himself  and 
the  petty  chief,  the  subject  being  a  lady  of  whom  Mr. 
Figueiredo  had  been  deprived. 

After  worrying  us  to  the  limits  of  our  patience,  one  of 
the  disputants  got  dead  drunk  and  the  other  went  to 
bed ;  nor  did  we  wait  to  hear  the  result  of  the  contention, 
which  was  certain  to  be  renewed  next  day,  for  having 
snatched  an  hour  or  two  of  sleep,  at  three  in  the  morn- 
ing, before  it  was  light,  we  quitted  the  place,  leaving 
plaintiff  and  defendant  in  the  arms  of  Morpheus. 

We  trudged  along  the  lofty  heights  of  the  Serra 
Catanha,  whose  eastern  flank,  the  work  doubtless  of 
some  convulsion  of  nature,  was  seamed  by  steep  preci- 
pices, exhibiting  here  and  there  huge  blocks  of  sandstone 
and  granite,  fantastically  shaped  in  the  semblance  of 
turreted  castles  and  frowning  fortresses. 

The  region  is  evidently  rich  in  minerals.  Silver 
appears  to  be  exceedingly  abundant,  as  various  of  the 
dignitaries  who  called  upon  us  wore  bracelets  and  anklets, 
and  carried  large  batons  of  that  metal.  We  could  get, 
however,  no  reliable  information  concerning  the  mines 
whence  the  metal  was  obtained,  or  respecting  the  process 
employed  in  the  working. 


Taenia. 


59 


Taenia  is  perhaps  one  of  the  most  important  staples  of 
the  trade  of  the  country,  if  we  might  judge  by  the 
quantity  of  people  we  saw  collecting  this  wood  and 
heaping  it  in  piles.  It  is  employed  for  various  purposes, 
such  as  staining  the  hair  and  body,  but  more  particu- 
larly for  dyeing  cloth.     The  natives  of   the  Jinga  are 


CATECO,    THE    GUIDE. 


accustomed  to  use  it  very  much  for  this  latter  purpose, 
the  natives  asserting  that  it  preserves  the  fabric  and 
keeps  it  cleaner.  They  moreover  make  an  infusion  of 
taenia,  dust,  and  oil,  steep  cloth  therein  for  some  days, 
and  then  expose  it  to  the  sun.     The  result  is  a  species 


60  West  and  Central  Africa. 

of  oil-cloth,  which  may  be  useful  in  keeping  out  water, 
but  it  stinks  abominably. 

The  dwellings  of  the  Jingas  were  unlike  any  we  had 
yet  seen.  In  shape  they  were  elliptical,  the  sides  being 
of  grass  thickly  interwoven,  with,  the  door  at  one  of  the 
ends  of  the  larger  axis,  sheltered  by  a  porch  with  trellis- 
work.  They  were  not  wanting  in  picturesqueness,  and 
some  of  them  were  neat  and  pretty. 

To  the  north  of  the  road  we  were  pursuing,  lay  the 
territory  of  Matamba,  and  on  the  east  the  Dongo,  whose 
extreme  limit,  just  visible  in  the  distance,  was  marked  by 
an  irregular  blue  line.  Our  guide  Cateco  steered  his 
course  unhesitatingly  through  the  territory.  His  gait 
was  almost  as  regular  as  that  of  an  automaton,  his  step 
firm  and  assured  as  a  hunter's  should  be,  and  with  his 
long  gun  over  his  shoulder,  he  climbed  mountains  or 
strode  down  into  valleys,  crossed  ravines  or  forded  brooks 
with  the  same  equanimity,  merely  stopping  at  a  place 
where  two  paths  diverged  to  exclaim,— 

"  N'gila  murno,  n'gana  "  (This  way,  gentlemen),  or 
perhaps,  to  save  himself  the  necessity  of  uttering  even 
this  brief  explanation,  he  would  simply  block  the  road 
we  were  not  to  take  by  bending  a  bough  across  it,  or 
placing  a  bramble  at  the  commencement  of  the  track. 

Having  thus  travelled  northward  for  some  distance  we 
arrived,  tired  and  panting,  at  a  village  belonging  to  the 
Canda-rm-Ijumbombo,  where  we  raised  our  huts  and 
spent  the  rest  of  the  day  in  scientific  labours.  Next 
morning,  however,  the  4th  of  May,  by  daybreak,  we  were 
again  upon  the  road,  making  for  the  lands  of  the  Zundo- 
ia-Cassungo. 

The  weather,  which  had  been  fresh  and  clear  since  our 
entry  into  the  territory  of  the  Danje,  became  suddenly 
overcast  and  threatening.     A  suffocating  heat  made  the 


Desertions.  6 1 

earth  crack  in  every  direction,  and  the  first  drops  of  rain 
that  fell  were  immediately  dried  up.  Large  masses  of 
cloud,  rolling  quickly  up  from  the  south-east,  portended 
a  storm  near  at  hand.  Not  a  leaf  stirred ;  the  motion- 
less trees,  white  with  dust,  seemed  anxiously  waiting 
and  looking  for  the  water  that  was  to  put  fresh  vigour 
into  their  drooping  sprays. 

Within  a  few  paces  of  us,  in  the  ravines  which  bordered 
our  path  to  the  westward,  lay  the  sources  of  the  river 
liamba,  a  large  affluent  of  the  Cambo,  visited  by  us  for 
the  first  time.  Crossing  to  the  left  side  by  a  rude  bridge, 
we  suddenly  came  to  a  halt  through  an  unforeseen  cir- 
cumstance that  occasioned  us  fresh  embarrassment.  We 
were  first  attracted  by  loud  shouts  in  the  rear,  and 
hastening  back  to  inquire  the  cause  learned  from  Jose, 
one  of  our  guides,  that  seven  of  the  carriers  had  deserted 
with  their  guns,  and  left  their  loads  in  the  middle  of  the 
path  to  take  care  of  themselves  !  Jose  assured  us  he 
had  made  every  possible  effort  to  dissuade  them  from 
their  purpose,  but  without  effect,  the  only  answer  they 
deigned  to  make  to  his  persuasions  and  arguments  being 
"  tund'enu"  (We  are  off),  and  off  they  went. 

It  was  not  easy  to  arrive  at  a  clear  explanation  of  such 
conduct.  Fear,  perhaps,  had  something  to  do  with  it, 
the  apprehension  of  going  further  northwards  into  a 
region  which  they  felt  convinced  was  peopled  by  cannibals  ; 
but  there  were  evidently  additional  motives  in  the  shape 
of  disputes  and  quarrels  with  other  members  of  the 
caravan,  and  something  besides  which  they  did  not 
choose  to  reveal  to  Jose. 

Their  defection  could  not  have  been  worse  timed,  for 
at  that  moment  the  storm  burst  over  us  and  the  rain 
began  to  fall  as  it  only  does  come  down  in  this  country. 
We  immediately  called  a  council  beneath  the  shelter  of 


62  West  and  Central  Africa. 

an  acacia,  as  we  really  for  the  moment  did  not  know  what 
better  to  do.  Canght  as  we  were,  perfectly  unprepared, 
the  men  standing  about  looking  like  so  many  sheep, 
dripping  with  water,  the  thunder- claps,  so  loud  and  in- 
cessant that  we  could  with  difficulty  hear  ourselves  speak, 
and  the  groaning  of  the  trees  as  they  bent  beneath  the 
tempest  of  wind  and  rain,  rarely  did  we  feel  so  utterly 
non-plussed  as  on  that  occasion. 

As  the  goods  lay  out  in  the  open,  our  first  care  was  to 
get  them  round  us,  to  which  end  the  guide  went  off  with 
some  of  the  men,  and  this  being  done  we  did  our  best  to 
distribute  them  over  every  working  member  of  the 
caravan.  After  a  deal  of  chopping  and  changing,  grum- 
bling and  persuasions,  we  succeeded,  after  half  an  hour's 
hard  work,  in  settling  the  matter  to  our  minds,  and 
valiantly  trudged  off  through  the  forest,  though  we  were 
wet  to  the  skin.  It  need  scarcely  be  said  that  we  did 
not  wish  every  kind  of  felicity  might  befall  the  fugitives  ; 
indeed,  I  am  afraid  we  mentally  consigned  them  to  very 
uncomfortable  quarters — a  sentence  which,  though  it  did 
them  no  harm,  was  a  miserable  kind  of  balsam  to  our 
own  feelings. 

In  the  laying  on  of  this  "  flattering  unction,"  we  were 
heartily  assisted  by  the  carriers  who  had  to  bear  the 
increased  burthen  caused  by  the  flight  of  their  fellows, 
and  even  Capulca,  whose  antecedents  might  have  taught 
him  to  be  silent  upon  such  a  subject,  broke  in  with, — 

"  Oh  !  let  them  alone,  senhors,  before  the  sun  sets,  they 
will  find  out  their  mistake.  It  is  ill  joking  with  the 
sovas  of  the  Jinga,  and  what  with  their  viondas  and 
candas  and  catecos,  our  friends  will  have  a  lively  time  of 
it.  For  my  part,  I  wouldn't  take  a  dozen  steps  away  from 
the  caravan,  for  all  the  goods  in  the  world !  Only  a  few 
days  ago — " 


A  heavy  Storm.  63 

As  this  commencement  threatened  to  have  a  long  yarn 
at  the  end  of  it,  we  requested  him  to  fall  into  his  place. 
With  the  temperature  at  86°,  and  a  tropical  rain  falling, 
one  is  but  little  disposed  to  listen  to  long  stories. 

The  tempest  had  now  reached  its  height,  and  we 
had  no  other  resource  than  to  pack  ourselves  into  the 
smallest  compass,  so  as  to  present  the  least  possible  sur- 
face to  the  elements  and  as  we  crouched  under  the  trees 
let  the  water  as  it  poured  down  the  napes  of  our  necks 
find  an  exit  at  our  boots  !  These  frightful  storms  are 
bad  enough  to  bear  when  the  traveller  has  taken  certain 
precautions  against  them,  but  when  they  catch  him 
unawares  they  are  simply  atrocious.  The  sheets  of  rain, 
by  converting  the  soil  into  paste,  obliterate  every  vestige 
of  the  track,  while  the  water  considerably  increases  the 
weight  the  men  have  to  carry.  The  clouds  are  so  dense, 
and  so  completely  shut  out  the  sky,  that  within  the 
forest  it  becomes  black  night,  with  all  the  horrors  attend- 
ing the  hours  of  darkness ;  the  flashes  of  lightning,  as 
they  partially  illuminate  the  scene,  give  to  the  gaunt 
trunks  of  the  trees  the  appearance  of  the  bars  of  some 
gigantic  cage,  in  which  the  dripping,  miserable  wayfarer 
is  caught  without  the  chance  of  an  escape,  while  to  the 
rolling  of  the  thunder  is  added  the  soughing  of  the  wind, 
the  crash  of  breaking  branches,  the  swishing  of  the  rain, 
and  other  nameless  unintelligible  sounds  that  a  lively 
imagination  or  a  superstitious  mind  converts  so  easily 
into  the  groanings  and  repinings  of  uneasy  spirits  ! 

A  tempest,  fortunately,  does  not  endure  for  ever,  and 
it  is  short  in  proportion  to  its  violence.  So  after  a  time 
the  clouds  broke;  a  patch  or  two  of  blue  sky  became 
visible  through  the  rents,  a  ray  of  sun  shot  through 
another  aperture  and  widened  the  breach  thus  made,  till 
the  forest  was  illuminated  with  the  golden  haze  and  the 


64  West  and  Central  Africa. 

sun-light  glistened  in  every  raindrop  and  puddle;  the 
black  masses  of  vapour  rolled  away,  the  earth  steamed 
beneath  the  glowing  heat,  and  one  began  to  wonder  at 
the  fancies  which  an  hour  ago  held  the  mind  enthralled. 

Giving  ourselves  a  shake  or  two  as  a  clog  does  on 
issuing  from  the  water,  we  resumed  our  journey,  camp- 
ing at  two  o'clock  near  the  senzala  of  the  chief  Zundo-m- 
Cassungo,  at  the  base  of  Serra  Catucua. 

The  5th  of  May  broke  serene  and  beautiful,  and  we 
set  out  in  good  spirits  for  a  long  march.  That  amiable 
disposition  was  not,  however,  destined  to  last  long,  for 
Cateco,  who  had  views  of  his  own,  guided  us  through 
paths  and  by-ways  which  seemed  to  lead  to  the  habitations 
of  every  acquaintance  he  possessed  in  the  neighbourhood. 
We  found  them  to  be  perfect  dens  of  thieves,  where  our 
patience  was  put  to  the  severest  test,  and  our  means 
were  diminished  to  an  alarming  degree. 

Innumerable  vundas,  all  of  them  grasping  rascals, 
wanted  cloth,  beads,  aguardente,  on  the  largest  scale  and 
on  little  or  no  pretext  whatsoever.  First  there  was  a 
certain  Fzmdb-ia-Navina,  then  an  impudent  Cambaxe, 
further  on  a  Vunda-m-^uta,  at  a  few  dozen  paces  in  ad- 
vance a  Fim^a-ia-N'gola-Quilluanje,  a  little  while  after- 
wards a  F?mcZa-ia-Miquenha  ;  a  very  horde  of  cringing  or 
hectoring  nobles,  whose  capacity  for  swallowing  every 
thing  that  they  could  beg  or  worry  out  of  us  was  infinite. 

Boiling  with  rage,  we  encamped  near  a  small  river,  the 
Quimbaxe,  apprehensive  of  going  any  further  that  day,  lest 
we  should  be  utterly  despoiled.  Another  reason  was, 
the  extreme  interest  attaching  to  the  country  round, 
which  we  found  it  impossible  to  examine  or  survey 
whilst  our  minds  were  worried  with  resisting  extortion 
and  paying  tolls. 

Happily,  an  apprenticeship  of  many  months  engenders 


Extracts  from  the  Diary.  65 

a  certain  practical  scientific  experience,  and  the  traveller 
who  is  accustomed  to  note  the  orography  of  the  lands  he 
is  passing  through,  the  direction  of  the  mountain  chains 
and  their  ramifications,  the  sources  of  streams  and  rivers, 
&c,  acquires  a  rapidity  of  glance  and  observation  that 
enables  him  considerably  to  abridge  the  labours  of  the 
field.  Thus  it  is,  that  with  a  couple  of  extreme  latitudes 
and  longitudes,  two  opposite  azimuths  and  a  tour  half- 
way, he  has  no  difficulty  in  committing  to  paper  the 
rivers  whose  courses  he  falls  in  with,  the  direction  of 
their  sources,  their  sinuosities,  and  the  bearing  of  the 
serras — a  sketch  which  a  subsequent  careful  examination 
in  his  hut  enables  him  to  complete  to  his  satisfaction. 

We  extract  from  the  diary  the  notes  of  the  two  fol- 
lowing days,  the  6th  and  7th  of  May,  for  being  jotted 
down  at  the  time  they  will  serve  better  than  any  narra- 
tive to  enlighten  our  readers  upon  what  an  explorer  has 
frequently  to  endure  upon  his  inarch. 

Portuguese- African  Expedition. 

May  6,  1879.  Page  510. 

Aneroid  2272  ft.  (uucorrd.)  Temperature  82°  Fahr. 

2.10  p.m.  Camped  near  the  River  Candanje,  to  the  N.W.  of  a  lofty 
peak  of  Serra  Catucua,  2-15°  true  (Lu-ache  and  Cambo,  rivers),  76°  true? 
in  parallel  8°  22'  S.  O  mer.  =  72'06  ;  azimuth  rect.  150°  true. 

To-day's  journey  infernal  ;  broken,  frightful  ground,  through  two 
ravines,  Catucua  on  the  W.  and  Temo  on  the  E.  forming  the  basin  of 
the  Hamba.  Scaled  and  descended  eight  steep  mounts,  of  not  less  than 
1000  feet,  which  half-killed  us  with  fatigue. 

Our  guide,  who  knows  the  country,  tells  us  that  between  here  and 
the  Quango  the  ground  will  get  gradually  worse  ;  and  that  the  next 
twenty-five  days'  march  will  be  nothing  but  ups  and  downs,  the  moun- 
tains and  valleys  covered  with  lofty  vegetation. 

From  this  point  we  see  the  Hamba,  which  by  a  narrow  curve  opens 
out  to  the  N.E  through  rocky  banks. 

To  the  W.  of  the  camp  mountains  and  valleys  intercept  the  view. 

"We  have  just  visited  two  graves  close  by,  respecting  Avhich  we  heard 
VOL.    II.  F 


06  West  and  Central  Africa. 

a  story  somewhat  in  the  style  of  the  fable  of  the  two  crickets  that 
managed  to  devour  each  other. 

A  couple  of  natives  had  started  from  the  coast  together,  in  order  to 
sell  their  goods  :  on  their  return  they  camped  near  this  spot  to  divide 
the  proceeds. 

As,  however,  they  disagreed  in  the  process,  from  words  they  came  to 
blows,  and  in  the  end  killed  one  another. 

They  seem  also  to  have  buried  each  other  besides,  for  an  eye-witness* 
who  saw  them  lying  dead  in  the  eveniug,  found  only  their  toes  stickiug 
out  of  the  earth  at  sunrise  next  day  ! 

We  should  have  liked  to  question  that  witness  as  to  whether  he  had 
covered  up  their  toes  ! 


Portuguese-African  Expedition. 

May  7,  1879.  Page  511. 

Aneroid  2275  ft.  Temperature  80J °  Fahr. 

Broke  up  camp  at  7.30  a.m. 

Fresh  labour  and  difficulties.  These  marches  are  very  trying  to  the 
men,  who  have  already  had  eighteen  months  of  it  in  the  interior. 

The  road  to-day  was  along  a  track  which,  in  the  space  of  a  quarter 
of  an  hour,  led  us  north,  south,  and  east. 

Covered  with  huge  flints,  it  was  a  perfect  ankle-trap,  with  vegetation 
in  between,  that  made  the  passage  of  a  heavily-laden  man  all  but 
impossible. 

The  carriers,  cut,  bruised,  and  exhausted,  refused  to  go  any  further. 
Poor  fellows  !  we  pitied  them  from  our  hearts,  with  their  seventy  pounds' 
weight  to.  carry  ! 

The  path  led  us  from  Candanje  to  Calling  a-M\id'i\le ;  thence  to 
Calling a-N'bondo,  and  finally  to  CaZwn^a-Mutomba,  where  we  are  now 
camped  ;  the  entire  road  running  along  the  edge  of  the  great  precipice 
lying  on  our  left. 

•at*  <&t»  .m.  jg»  *m»  je»  4t»     '  «ai» 


We  closed  the  events  of  the  day  just  recorded  (the  7th 
of  May)  by  a  hot  discussion  with  the  Sova,  Galunga- 
N'bondo,  who  in  the  most  delicate  and  polite  manner 
wanted  to  force  upon  us  one  of  his  oxen.  As  we  refused 
to  accede  to  such  an  arrangement,  which  we  knew  would 
be  a  dear  bargain,  that  rascally  Cateco  determined  to 
second  his  intentions,  and  on  the  8th  at  daybreak,  start- 


Treachery  of  the  Guide. 


67 


ing  at  the  head  of  the  caravan,  by  previous  agreement 
with  the  too  generous  chief,  he  guided  us  by  a  path 
which  turned  out  to  be  a  cul-de-sac,  and  left  us  in  a  deep 
river,  called  the  Mucuna,  and  took  to  his  heels  ! 

After  searching  about  for  a  path  in  vain,  we  had  to 
retrace  our  steps,  and  found  ourselves  at  length  almost 
at  the  spot  we  had  started  from. 


ALL    BUT   LOST. 


We  managed  to  catch  our  guide,  and  on  the  following 
day  took  a  northerly  direction,  but  got  on  so  slowly  that 
on  arriving  at  Mahabo  we  found  the  herd  waiting  for  us 
that  we  might  select  one  of  the  animals. 

Then  ensued  a  discussion  that  lasted  hours.  The  Sova 
did  not  want  to  sell,  but  to  give  us  a  beast,  only,  by  way 
of  preliminary ;  he  himself  wanted  a  present  of  sixteen 
pieces  of  cloth  ! 

¥    2' 


68 


West  and  Central  Afi 


nca. 


We  came  to  an  arrangement  at  last,  the  high  contract- 
ing party  letting  us  have  a  fat  cow,  but  which  turned  out 
to  be  so  old  and  tough  that  we  could  scarce  get  our  teeth 
into  the  meat  when  it  was  cooked. 

We  were  informed  that  this  was  one  of  the  wealthiest 


WE    POUND   THE    HERD   WAITING. 


Sovas  of  the  Jinga,  an  assertion  we  readily  believed,  judg- 
ing from  his  extensive  herds  of  cattle.  We  could  not  help 
observing,  however,  that  all  his  wealth  failed  to  secure 
him  respect,  for  the  animal  having  been  brought  down 
and  quartered,  all  the  natives  who  had  been  engaged  in 


The  river  Cn-ilo.  69 

the  occupation,  took  up  their  little  bundles,  and  turning 
their  backs  upon  the  great  man,  sneaked  quietly  off. 

It  is  a  noteworthy  circumstance  that  the  possession  of 
this  world's  goods  does  not  of  itself  insure  superiority 
among  these  people  :  it  merely  secures  to  their  owner  the 
advantage  of  satisfying  his  inclinations.  That  feeling  of 
respect,  which  in  the  old  country  is  shown  towards  the 
great  capitalist,  seems  to  be  quite  unknown  here.  This 
is  due,  probably,  to  the  fact  that  some  of  the  wealthiest 
Sovas  are  the  most  exacting,  and  will  stoop  to  the  meanest 
actions  to  increase  their  store. 

The  real  aristocracy  of  the  country,  if  we  may  use 
such  a  term  in  connexion  with  these  savages,  is  the 
hunter  whose  prowess  is  indicated  by  the  number  of  skin 
rings  bound  about  his  weapon — each  ring  showing  an 
animal  brought  down — or  the  warrior  who  has  distin- 
guished himself  in  battle,  or  the  man  who  has  dared  to 
penetrate  into  a  region  till  then  unknown.  These  hold 
the  highest  place  in  public  esteem,  and  are  not  unfre- 
quently  selected  for  important  offices  at  court. 

Sick  of  all  the  petty  annoyances  to  which  we  had  lately 
been  subjected,  we  longed  for  a  quiet  spot  where  we 
could  find  rest,  and  shouldering  our  dismembered  old 
cow,  we  set  off  in  search  of  such  a  desideratum.  We  did 
not,  however,  find  one  to  our  mind  till  the  16th  of  the 
month,  when,  having  gone  over  some  fearful  ground,  we 
sighted,  near  the  bank  of  the  Cu-ilo,  a  river  for  the  first 
time  marked  down,  the  residence  of  Cafuchila,  one  of  the 
principal  Sovas  of  the  Hungo,  whom  Cateco  specially 
recommended  to  us. 

On  a  nearer  approach,  we  were  informed  that  the  ruler 
himself  did  not  reside  there,  but  only  a  sister.  Still,  as 
it  was  of  small  interest  to  us  whether  it  were  a  sister  or 
a  brother,  we  encamped  in  due  course. 


7o 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


But  if  we  were  indifferent  to  the  subject,  others  did 
not  take  the  same  view  of  our  proceeding,  as  the  reader 
will  learn  in  the  next  chapter.  We  will  merely  observe, 
on  closing  this,  that  two  hours  after  our  arrival  we 
learned  that  it  was  not  a  sister  who  lived  there  after  all, 
but  the  Sova  himself  who  had  just  departed  this  life ; 
then  they  told  us  that  the  Sova  was  not  dead,  but  had 
decamped  ;  and  finally  this  was  again  corrected  by  the 
assertion  that  the  chief  had  gone  on  a  journey ! 

"  Anyway,  what  does  it  matter  to  us  ?  "  we  exclaimed, 
"  whether  the  man  be  dead,  run  away,  or  travelling  ?  " 

"  But,"  explained  Cateco,  "  they  want  to  go  and  fetch 
him." 

"  Let  them  go,  and  good  luck  go  with  them." 

It  turned  out  to  be  bad  luck  for  us  ;  and  little  did  we 
dream  when  planting  our  huts  in  that  longed-for  spot, 
that  we  should  be  the  poorer  by  twenty  pieces  m  of  cloth 
ere  we  got  quit  of  it ! 


SHABPIA   ANGOLENS1S. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Hnngo  and  its  people — Head-dresses — Tobacco  and  snuff — Ugli- 
ness of  the  women,  their  indifference  to  dress — Low  estimation  in 
which  they  are  held — The  monarch  of  the  Congo — Preparations 
for  departure — Discussions  Avith  the  natives — Sudden  dissolution 
of  a  meeting — Abandoned  senzalas — A  little  looting — Lake  Tiber 
— The  camp  kitchen  and  an  old  acquaintance — A  siesta  disagreeably 
interrupted — Flight  of  the  caravan — Fallen  among  thieves — A 
trial  and  a  singular  decision — The  forest  fired — Woods  and  vegeta- 
tion— Quadrumans  and  reptiles — What  explorers  have  to  expect — 
Discovery  of  the  river  Cu-gho — Varieties  of  trees — Passage  of  the 
river  and  African  cunning — A  rest  in  the  forest. 

We  are  now  in  the  territory  of  the  Hungo,  and  have  as 
yet  said  nothing  of  the  aspect  and  customs  of  its  inhabi- 
tants, for  the  simple  reason  that  as  the  data  had  to  be 
culled  from  the  notes  of  our  diary,  we  have  only  at 
present  reached  the  point  where  we  can  properly  speak 
of  them. 

The  natives  of  this  part  of  the  continent,  who  are 
called  ma-hungo,  have  a  special  type,  very  different  to  that 
which  distinguishes  the  people  further  south.  From 
the  moment  of  our  entry  into  Matamba,  we  began  to  re- 
mark that  difference  principally  observable  in  the  colour 
of  the  skin  and  the  mode  of  dressing  the  hair.  To  the 
jet  black  of  the  Jinga  had  succeeded  the  mahogany  hue 
of  the  Ma-hungo  ;  and  in  place  of  the  trim  bands  and 
plaits  of  the  former,  we  found  a  far  more  simple  style 
adopted  in  the  Matamba.     The  Ma-hungo  men  do  not 


7 2  West  and  Central  Africa. 

plait  tlieir  hair  at  all,  but  either  leave  the  wool  alone,  or, 
shaving  portion  of  the  head,  adorn  the  sides  with  blue 
glass  beads  or  other  more  common  ones. 

Their  dress  is  a  simple  c]oth  suspended  from  the 
girdle,  with  a  brass  bracelet  on  the  wrist ;  they  carry  a 
musket  whereof  the  metal  is  kept  clean  and  well-polished, 
and  occasionally  a  curved  sabre  of  the  old  huzzar  fashion, 
with  metal  sheath. 

They  cut  away  the  two  front  teeth  to  the  gum,  and 
sometimes  the  two  lower  ones  also,  which  gives  them  a 
most  repulsive  appearance.  In  their  mode  of  life  they 
are  barbarous  to  a  high  degree.  They  anoint  and  dis- 
figure their  bodies  with  oil  and  clay,  and  they  carry  with 
them  in  consequence  a  bouquet,  that  is  perceptible  at 
several  yards'  distance. 

Both  men  and  women  smoke  incessantly.  Nicotiana 
tabacum  with  a  large  lance-shaped  leaf  abounds,  together 
with  another  quality  having  a  round  leaf  (N.  rustica  or 
vulgaris  ?)  that  is  sold  by  the  leaf  or  in  small  conical 
piles  in  which  it  is  packed.  Their  most  inveterate  vice, 
however,  is  that  of  snuff-taking,  which  all  more  or  less 
indulge  in.  They  use  for  the  purpose  cylindrical  boxes, 
wherein  they  put  the  dried  or  toasted  leaf,  that  is 
pounded  with  a  small  wooden  pestle,  and  they  add 
pepper  to  it  to  give  the  mixture  a  more  pungent  flavour. 
Their  mode  of  taking  it  is  peculiar :  thrusting  into  the 
box  a  stalk  of  the  massambala  with  part  of  the  ear 
attached,  as  if  it  were  a  spoon,  they  fill  the  little  cavity 
with  snuff,  carry  it  to  the  nostrils,  and  inhale  it  with  a 
powerful  sniff.  The  operation  so  far  is  the  mere  indul- 
gence of  a  vice ;  but  with  most  of  them  it  does  not  stop 
there,  for  the  operator,  introducing  the  little  spoon  for  a 
second  time  into  the  box,  smears  all  the  upper  lip  with 
the  powder,  which  sticks  there  readily  enough  through  the 


THE   LADIES   OF   THE   IIUNGO. 


Page  73. 


The  Women  of  the  Hungo.  73 

running  from  the  nose,  and  this  done,  he  or  she  seems 
very  proud  of  the  disgusting  result. 

We  said  he  or  she,  for  the  ladies  indulge  in  this  habit 
quite  as  frequently  as  their  lords,  and  the  effect  may  be 
imagined  when,  their  mouths  and  noses  plastered  over 
with  the  yellow  powder,  they  open  their  lips  and  display 
their  toothless  jaws  ! 

As  we  are  upon  the  subject  of  the  gentler  sex,  we  will 
add  a  few  more  words  about  these  degenerate  daughters 
of  Eve.  The  women  of  the  Hungo  are,  in  general,  far 
uglier  than  the  men,  and  their  savage  appearance  is  in 
harmony  only  with  the  soil  on  which  they  live.  The 
mahogany  colour  of  the  skin,  not  uniformly  tinted,  but 
often  patched  and  spotty,  is  not  by  any  means  so  agree- 
able to  the  eye  as  the  shiny  jet  of  the  natives  further 
south.  As  one  meets  them  abroad  en  grande  toilette 
(that  is  to  say  as  bare  as  the  palm  of  one's  hand)  with 
a  layer  of  clay  upon  their  heads  to  keep  down  the  woolly 
hair,  a  pipe  in  the  month,  a  snuff-box  dangling  from  the 
girdle,  powerful  limbs  (many  of  them  are  five  feet  nine 
inches  in  height)  a  basket  suspended  by  a  narrow  leather 
thong  from  their  foreheads,  and  hanging  down  the 
back, — a  feeling  of-  pity  is  mingled  with  the  disgust 
which  the  sight  of  them  occasions. 

They  seem  to  have  the  most  sovereign  contempt  for 
any  sort  of  clothing,  if  we  except  a  little  scrap  of  baize, 
which  they  wear  like  an  apron,  only  behind  instead  of 
before.  Thirty  times  to  one  they  rejected  the  cloth  we 
offered  them,  taking  beads  in  preference,  to  adorn  the 
flat  tresses  that  surround  their  head,  and  which  represent 
the  labour  of  months — perfect  nests,  wherein  the 
parasites  must  lead  a  quiet,  peaceful  life,  and  multiply 
undisturbed.  If  by  any  chance  they  did  accept  a  piece 
of  cloth,  they  gave  it  to  their  husband,  or  wrapped  their 


74  West  and  Central  Africa. 

child  in  it,  or  made  any  use  of  it  rather  than  to  cover 
their  own  nakedness. 

They  appear  to  be  held  in  esteem  merely  as  beasts  of 
burthen  ;  and  if  we  had  any  doubt  concerning  the  exist- 
ence of  love,  as  a  sentiment,  among  the  tribes  further  south, 
we  can  have  no  hesitation  in  affirming  that  not  a  scintilla 
of  it  is  to  be  found  here.  Everything  is  absolutely 
practical.  A  man  appreciates  his  cows  far  more  than  he 
does  his  wives,  and  will  make  sacrifices  to  recover  the 
former  if  stolen  or  strayed,  but  as  to  the  latter,  they  may 
disappear  without  any  hue  or  cry  being  made  after  them. 

The  dances  to  which  we  have  more  than  once  referred 
in  the  course  of  our  narrative  are  practised  here,  but  all 
their  grotesqueness  has  disappeared,  and  left  nothing  but 
the  obscenity,  in  which  the  women  take  the  most  active 
part. 

Their  dwellings  are  filthily  dirty ;  and  their  clay 
utensils  are  clumsily  made;  nor  do  the  other  articles 
with  which  they  adorn  the  interior  of  their  huts,  and 
that  are  familiar  to  the  reader,  display  any  greater  taste 
or  skill.  There  are  mortars,  drums,  benches,  stools, 
bows,  lances,  canes,  wooden  platters,  oars,  fetishes, 
calibashes,  cartouch-boxes,  powder-horns,  bracelets, 
pipes,  knives,  marimbas,  and  other  things  which  the 
Ma-hungo,  like  their  congeners,  manufacture  for  their 
use,  but  they  are  rude  and  unfinished. 

The  supreme  authority  acknowledged  by  this  people, 
who  are  indubitably  of  a  different  origin  from  those  in 
the  south,  is  the  King  of  the  Congo,  residing  in  the  north 
at  St.  Salvador,  one  of  the  three  monarchs  of  whom  they 
have  any  notion;  the  other  two  being  the  King  of 
Portugal,  and  the  King  of  the  Jinga. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  third  day  of  our  sojourn  in 
Cafuchila,  the  guide,    Cateco,   appeared  before   us    and 


Something.   Wrong.  75 


-£>    "  -  -.  —,& 


inquired  in  a  queer  sort  of  way  whether  we  still  intended 
to  start  next  morning  as  we  proposed. 

"  016  !  "  was  our  reply.  "  Of  course  we  shall  leave  ; 
the  Sova  does  not  appear ;  only  his  sister  is  at  home,  and 
we  have  no  idea  of  taking  root  in  this  place." 

Turning  on  his  heels  with  an  insolent  air,  he  walked 
off  towards  the  village,  as  if  to  make  the  necessary 
arrangements,  but  hours  flew  by  and  he  did  not  return 
to  the  quilombo. 

The  night  passed  over  quietly  enough,  and  with  the 
first  blush  of  day  we  began  to  get  all  the  goods  ready 
for  departure,  and  sent  for  Cateco  ;  but  he  was  not  to  bo 
found;  the  rascal  was  hiding  for  some  purpose  of  his 
own,  and  we  had  once  again  to  leave  without  a  guide. 

No  sooner  had  we  commenced  our  march  than  we 
began  to  understand  the  position  of  matters,  for  in 
almost  every  direction  we  heard  the  confused  sounds  of 
large  bodies  of  men,  followed  shortly  after  by  the 
beating  of  the  war-drums,  and  the  appearance  in  the 
neighbouring  woods  of  many  armed  natives.  We  were 
surrounded,  that  was  clear ;  and  according  to  their  notions 
we  had  committed  some  crime,  of  which  we  were  pro- 
foundly ignorant,  but  which  we  were  expected  to  pay  for. 

In  the  course  of  a  few  moments  there  issued  from  the 
grove  on  the  left  three  warriors  in  company  of  the  traitor 
Cateco,  with  feathers  stuck  into  their  heads  and  making 
threatening  gestures. 

Our  first  impulse  was  to  rush  upon  the  fellow  and  give 
him  what  he  well  merited — a  thoroughly  good  thrashing. 
But  the  rascal,  as  if  divining  our  intention,  no  sooner  saw 
us  approach  than  he  took  to  flight,  his  long,  thin  legs 
and  arms,  and  lanky  body,  surmounted  by  his  plumed 
head,  giving  him  the  appearance  of  an  African  flamingo. 
His  companions  had  some  difficulty  to  catch  him  for  the 


76  West  and  Central  Africa. 

intended  conference,  and  when  they  did  the  whole  four 
returned ;  then  one  of  them,  after  a  short  silence,  and 
in  a  harsh  voice,  gave  vent  to  the  following  pithy  dis- 
course : — 

"  Muene  Puto  !  The  Ma-hungo  are  wrath  with  you. 
The  sister  of  Cafuchila,  now  in  charge  of  the  state,  has 
been  deceived  by  you,  as  you  said  you  would  await  the 
Sova.  Did  she  not  send  you  one  of  her  macotas  to  hear 
from  your  own  lips  that  you  would  await  the  coming  of 
the  Sova  who  is  now  two  suns'  journey  distant  ?  " 

"  She  did,"  we  replied. 

"  Did  you  not  say  that  you  would  wait  ?  " 

"  We  did," 

"  Is  she  not  the  lady  of  these  lands  ?  " 

"  She  may  be  so." 

"  Did  she  not  give  you  flour  for  your  daily  food  ?  " 

"  Well,  not  exactly  give,  she  sold  it  us." 

"  Anyway,  you  cannot  quit  this  place  because  you  have 
not  two  tongues !  Either  stop  or  go  back :  if  you  do 
otherwise,  you  must  pay." 

It  being  now  our  innings,  we  posed  in  a  proper 
attitude,  and  putting  Jose,  our  interpreter,  in  front  of  us, 
uttered  in  a  measured  way  the  following  words  :— 

"  Macotas  !  We  came  here  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  Sova  ; 
we  did  not  find  him,  for  which  our  heart  is  much  afflicted, 
and  therefore  we  are  about  to  pursue  our  onward 
journey.  We  never  dreamed  of  possessing  two  tongues, 
a  monstrosity  which  only  an  error  of  nature  could  produce. 
We  are  good  and  loyal  friends  "  (Jose  could  make  nothing 
of  the  loyal,  so  he  substituted  fat,  which  no  doubt 
answered  the  purpose  just  as  well),  "  what  reason,  there- 
fore, have  you  to  act  as  you  are  doing?  Does  it  not 
appear  to  you  treachery  towards  the  whites  ?  If  you 
were  in  the  country  of  the  whites,  think  you  we  should 


A  Conference.  jj 

act  as  you  are  doing  ?  It  is  not  our  intention  to  flee 
from  the  Sova,  and  as  a  proof  of  our  friendship  we  have 
here  a  present  to  offer  him." 

At  this  point  we  thought  matters  were  looking  a  little 
brighter,  when  the  trio  interrupted  us  with, — 

"  What  is  your  present  ?  " 

"  A  piece  of  gingham,  half  a  piece  of  cotton,  and  six 
handkerchiefs,"  we  replied,  trying  to  look  as  grave  as 
judges. 

"Uh-ehl"  exclaimed  the  three  rogues  together, 
"  Cafuchila  is  a  great  Muene,  he  governs  all  this  land  ;  he 
is  greater  than  Tembo  Aluma,  greater  than  Quinbungo 
Quiassama ;  only  the  Mani-Congo  is  greater  than  he.  He 
allows  no  one  to  pass  without  permission.  Eh- eh  !  wait 
one  day  longer  and  he  will  be  here.  He  has  not  seen  the 
whites ;  he  wishes  to  talk  to  them  and  drink  aguardente 
with  them ;  wait,  wait  two  days  longer  and  he  will  come." 

What  is  the  use,  we  argued  between  ourselves,  of  con- 
tinuing all  this  palaver  ?  we  shall  be  talking  here  all  night, 
and  yet  leave  off  where  we  began.  But  at  this  moment 
a  diversion  was  afforded  by  that  inimitable  Cateco,  who 
addressing  us  in  an  insolent  kind  of  way  said, — 

"  And  have  you  nothing  else  to  offer  us  ?  " 

This  was  too  much  for  our  patience,  so  we  answered, — 

"  Yes ;  we  have  a  stick  "  .  .  .  .  seizing  a  good  stout 
one,  ready  at  hand. 

The  action,  which  was  perfectly  unmistakable,  broke 
up  the  meeting,  the  false  guide  and  the  three  doughty 
warriors  incontinently  taking  to  their  heels. 

Giving  at  once  orders  to  march,  we  plunged  into  the 
vast  campaign  country  to  the  north,  the  echoes  for  some 
time  repeating  the  tumming  of  the  drums  ;  these,  how- 
ever, grew  fainter  as  we  advanced,  and  at  length  were 
lost  altogether  to  the  ear. 


78  West  and  Central  Africa. 

A  couple  of  miles  further  on  brought  us  to  some  plan- 
tations of  manioc,  pepper,  pumpkins,  and  other  products, 
and  we  shortly  after  descried  a  couple  of  senzalas  in  the 
woods. 

Although  furnished  with  the  ordinary  utensils  and 
articles  of  savage  life,  they  were  totally  deserted  of  in- 
habitants. By  the  ashes  of  the  fires  that  were  still  warm 
and  the  general  disorder  perceptible  about  the  huts  it 
was  evident  that  their  inmates  had  recently  taken  to 
flight.  This  is  no  uncommon  thing  in  the  interior  of 
Africa,  where  the  first  beating  of  the  war-drum  will  fre- 
quently cause  a  senzala  to  be  abandoned. 

That  cunning  Oapulca,  having  satisfied  himself  that 
there  really  was  nobody  about,  plucked  up  courage  to 
make  a  recognisance  and  returned  with  a  staff  and  a 
dozen  maniocs  that  he  had  looted.  His  example  was 
soon  followed  by  others  ;  one  appropriated  a  very  good 
skin ;  another  picked  up  a  pan ;  a  third,  some  other 
article ;  and  we  ourselves  secured  a  little  fetish,  quieting 
our  conscience  for  the  theft  under  the  pretext  that  it  was 
done  in  the  interest  of  science  and  for  the  gratification 
of  European  curiosity.  Lighting  our  pipes  at  a 
smouldering  fire  we  quitted  the  spot  and  resumed  our 
way. 

Still  keeping  a  northerly  course,  by  an  open  track,  we 
fell  in  with  another  deserted  hamlet,  through  which  we 
marched  in  triumph,  and  two  miles  further  on,  descending 
an  abrupt  slope,  we  came,  at  half-past  eleven,  upon  a 
lovely  lake  surrounded  by  high  ground,  the  name  of 
which,  as  we  subsequently  learned,  was  the  Tiber. 

Its  banks,  cut  into  a  variety  of  fantastic  creeks  and 
mimic  bays,  thickly  clothed  with  verdure,  offered  a  most 
enchanting  prospect,  the  contemplation  of  which  soon 
banished  from  our  minds  the  annoyances  of  the  early 


Lake  Tiber. 


79 


morning;  for  having  now  become  habituated  to  the  life 
of  the  woods  we  could  give  ourselves  up  to  the  enjoyment 
of  any  novelty  that  came  in  our  way  with  the  same  light- 
headedness as  any  of  the  natives — our  companions. 

The  water,  whose  limpidity  left  that  of  its  namesake  in 
old  Rome  far  in  the  shade,  faithfully  reflected  the  image 
of  the  steep  and  richly  varied  banks  and  the  azure  vault 


LAKE    TIBER. 


above  ;  not  a  sound  disturbed  the  holy  stillness :  not  a 
ruffle  broke  the  mirror-like  surface  of  the  lovely  basin ; 
and  we  might  have  fancied  ourselves  suddenly  trans- 
ported by  some  kindly  genius  to  this  enchanting  spot  as 
if  to  show  us  of  what  Nature  was  capable  in  her  happy 
moods  in  the  interior  of  savage  Africa. 

The  magic  of  such  a  scene  was  susceptible,  we  thought, 


8o  West  and  Central  Afi 


nca. 


of  being  heightened  if  contemplated  under  the  most 
favourable  material  circumstances,  that  is  to  say,  under 
the  influence  of  a  hearty  breakfast ;  so  rousing  Capulca 
from  his  pleasant  occupation  of  munching  one  of  his 
stolen  maniocs,  we  gave  orders  for  the  preparation  of 
the  meal. 

Making  for  the  nearest  tree,  and  arranging  close  to  it 
three  large  stones  (our  invariable  camp  fireplace),  our 
chef  divested  himself  of  his  cap,  boots,  and  pipe ;  and 
kneeling  down  to  attend  to  the  fire,  his  cook's  knife 
in  its  sheath  stuck  out  behind  him,  he  bore  so  extra- 
ordinary a  resemblance  to  a  baboon  with  a  stiff  tail, 
that  we  could  not  refrain  from  laughter  at  the  sight  ! 

Pending  the  preparation  of  the  meal,  we  set  ourselves 
to  gather  small  shells  in  order  to  enlarge  the  concho- 
logical  acquirements  of  the  naturalists,  and  when  break- 
fast was  ready  Ave  eagerly  attacked  the  invariable  fowl. 
It  was  an  old  acquaintance,  or  at  least  must  have  been 
very  near  of  kin  to  many  hundreds  of  equally  lanky, 
stringy  creatures  upon  which  it  had  been  our  fate  to 
banquet  for  many  a  long  month.  While  carefully  picking 
its  bones,  we  discussed — as  we  had  often  done  before — ■ 
the  tooth-resisting  power  of  this  species  of  biped  in 
Africa,  and  when  the  herculean  task  was  over,  we  lay 
back  on  the  grass,  our  heads  supported  in  our  hands, 
disposed  for  a  comfortable  siesta. 

It  did  not  last  long;  nothing  pleasant  in  this  world 
ever  does;  for  while  watching  amused,  with  half-closed 
eyes,  the  young  niggers  licking  the  plates  as  they 
gathered  them  up,  and  swallowing  any  scraps  (they 
must  have  been  very  few)  we  had  inadvertently  let  fall, 
we  saw  a  sudden  movement  of  alarm  among  them,  and 
with  the  warning  cry  of  "  The  Ma-hungo  ! 
our  ears,  we  sprang  to  our  feet. 


Pursued. 


81 


The  cry  liad  roused  the  whole  caravan,  the  men 
seizing  their  guns.  On  looking  round  we  were  con- 
vinced of  the  presence  of  the  enemy,  for  they  clustered  on 
the  neighbouring  hills  and  showed  their  heads  above  the 
grass,  all  apparently  armed  with  guns  and  assagais. 

"  They  are  back  again,"  was  the  universal  exclamation, 
"  and  we  shan't  get  by ;  they  mean  to  rob  us  !  " 

""Well;  if  they  try,  we  must  defend  ourselves,"  was 
our  response. 

And  giving  orders  to  march,  we  filed  along  the  edge 
of  the  broken  ground,  in  the 
midst  of  a  roar  of  voices 
from  the  savages,  which  the 
echoes  repeated  in  the 
strangest  sounds. 

It  was  a  frightfully  trying 
march  up  that  mountain 
side,  under  a  burning  sun, 
our  only  track  the  irregular 
furrows  made  by  the  waters, 
every  where  strewn  with 
sharp,  flinty  stones.  On 
reaching  the  summit  we 
discovered  at  the  base  the 
upturned  faces  and  shining 
bodies  of  our  pursuers. 

The  women  of  our  caravan  were  in  terrible  trouble,  for 
what  with  heavy  loads  upon  their  heads  and  their  infants 
at  their  backs  they  could  with  difficulty  get  along, 
and  we  deemed  it  prudent  to  bring  up  the  rear  to  pre- 
vent the  laggards  being  seized  and  carried  off  by  the 
natives. 

The  mountain  was  succeeded  by  a  plateau,  in  crossing 
which  we  came  upon  the  important  track  called  the  Holo, 

VOL.    II.  g 


THE    HOLO   TYPE. 


82  West  and  Central  Africa. 

that  runs  westward  to  Ambriz,  passing  through  Dembo 
Naboangongo.  We  at  once  struck  into  it,  followed 
closely  by  the  horde  of  barbarians,  who  pursued  us  with 
cries  and  threats,  stopping  when  we  stopped,  and  moving 
on  when  we  moved.  This  convinced  us  of  the  inefficacy 
of  any  attempt  at  negotiation. 

At  times  they  would  conceal  themselves,  and  the  joy 
of  our  crew  was  great.  It  was  always,  however,  short- 
lived, for  heads  would  pop  up  again  in  the  most 
unexpected  places,  as  if  the  wretches  had  burrowed 
through  the  earth  like  moles. 

Four  anxious  hours  were  spent  in  this  manner,  hours 
that  seemed  weeks  in  length,  and  we  were  uncertain  as 
at  the  outset,  about  what  we  had  better  do  :  for  we  stood 
unsupported,  in  a  savage,  desert  country,  with  compara- 
tively few  resources,  and  surrounded  by  a  hostile  people. 
At  this  moment  a  murmur,  as  of  some  important 
discovery,  came  from  the  vanguard,  and  we  ourselves 
observed,  as  we  commenced  the  descent  of  the  high 
ground,  that  we  were  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  senzala. 
We  at  once  decided  upon  camping  there;  and  on  reaching 
a  convenient  spot  the  loads  were  willingly  lowered  and 
piled,  and  the  men  set  to  work  to  procure  materials  for 
the  huts.  On  seeing  this,  the  Ma-hungo  closed  up  on  all 
sides  and  completely  surrounded  us. 

Suddenly  there  issued  from  the  senzala  an  old  noble, 
recognizable  by  his  cajinga,  who  came  towards  us.  As 
he  approached,  we  were  so  little  prepossessed  by  his 
general  appearance,  his  enormous  mouth,  hanging  lips, 
wrinkled  skin,  flattened  nose  and  blear  eyes,  that  we 
could  not  help  muttering,  "Another  thief!  " 

Little  wotting  of  the  unfavourable  effect  he  had 
produced  upon  us,  he  addressed  us  with  the  words, — 

"  I  am  the  chief  of  this  senzala.  Who  are  you  ?  Whence 


Trial  of  the  Cause.  8 


j 


do  you  come  ?  And  who  are  these  people  surrounding 
you  ?  " 

At  first  we  hesitated  about  making  him  our  confidant, 
but  on  second  thoughts,  seeing  the  not  too  favourable  eye 
he  cast  npon  the  Ma-hungo,  we  thought  it  better  to  give 
him  some  explanation.  Upon  our  hint,  therefore,  the  mu- 
zumbo  furnished  him  with  a  brief  narrative  of  the  events 
of  the  day,  the  persecution  to  which  we  had  been  forced 
to  submit,  and  the  absurd  pretensions  of  the  Ma-hungo, 
who  claimed  twenty  pieces  of  cloth  in  payment  of  an 
offence  that  was  either  imaginary  or  that  we  had  never 
committed. 

"  Fear  nothing,"  said  the  ngly  old  chief,  after  listening 
to  this  story  :   "I  will  decide  everything." 

And  in  a  rage,  real  or  pretended,  turning  to  onr 
pursuers,  he  began  to  rate  them  soundly,  interspersing  his 
discourse  with  such  gentle  epithets  as  "  thieves,  rogues, 
and  villains,"  so  that  our  hearts,  as  well  as  those  of  the 
whole  caravan,  were  gladdened  within  us  at  this  evident 
leaning  to  our  side.  Before  this  untoward  affair,  how- 
ever, was  terminated,  we  were  forced  to  alter  our  opinion, 
and  to  confess  that  the  hoary  old  Jinga  was  a  more 
cunning  rogue  than  all  the  rest  put  together,  as  he  was 
sharp  enough  to  swindle  both  parties  alike. 

Deeming  that  at  his  advanced  age  a  vertical  position 
could  not  be  particularly  comfortable,  we  found  him  a 
small  bench  to  sit  down  on,  and  when  he  had  taken  his 
place  beside  ourselves,  our  people  and  the  Ma-hungo 
gathered  round  and  the  Court  was  complete. 

The  interpreter  Jose,  on  our  behalf,  opened  the  case, 
and  bitterly  complained  of  the  annoyances  to  which  we 
had  been  subjected ;  and  when  he  had  done  our  adver- 
saries, by  their  mouth-piece,  made  answer.  This  was 
followed   by   reply  and   rejoinder,  till   one  would  have 

g  2 


84 


West  and  Central  Aft 


mca. 


thought  the   gates   of   some    lunatic    asylum    had  been 
suddenly  opened  and  the  inmates  had  broken  loose. 
The  old  judge  listened,  but  appeared  to  be  in  no  sort 


THE    COURT    WAS   COMPLETE. 


of  hurry  to  pass  sentence,  meanwhile  night  was  approach- 
ing, and  he  knew  the  natives  would  not  stop  there  after 
dark.     This  evidently  was  his  policy  ;  he  wanted  to  gain 


Judgment.  85 

time,  so  as  to  force  them  to  modify  their  claims.  As  the 
sun  Beared  the  horizon  their  demands  were  already 
reduced  to  fifteen  pieces  ;  as  it  was  setting  they  dropped 
down  to  twelve  ;  and  when  its  last  rays  disappeared  they 
had  fallen  to  ten. 

"  Ten  be  it,"  we  exclaimed  :  admitting  to  ourselves 
that  the  good  man  had  done  us  this  much  service  in 
reducing  the  claim  of  these  wretches  to  one-half. 

A  bale  having  been  opened,  and  the  ten  pieces  counted 
out,  the  natives  took  possession,  and  at  once  marched  off, 
to  our  intense  satisfaction.  Imagine,  however,  our 
astonishment  and  disgust  when,  on  the  retirement  of  the 
band  of  thieves,  the  arch-thief,  our  African  Daniel,  holding 
out  his  hand,  said,  in  a  snuffling  tone, — 

"  Bin-delle,  now  hand  over  the  other  ten  pieces  to  me  !  " 

And  we  had  to  do  it,  iniquitous  as  we  considered  the 
arrangement ;  and  thus  were  brought  to  a  close  an  absurd 
adventure  and  a  singular  trial,  the  first  in  the  country 
in  which  we  flattered  ourselves  we  should  obtain  justice. 

So  disgusted  were  we  with  the  events  of  the  last  few 
hours  that  we  had  almost  made  up  our  minds  to  resume 
our  march  at  night,  but  this  idea  was  abandoned  as  soon 
as  formed,  for  not  only  was  the  darkness  at  our  place  of 
encampment  complete,  but  before  us,  at  some  four  to  six 
miles  distance,  the  northern  horizon  in  an  arc  of  100° 
suddenly  wore  the  appearance  of  an  ocean  of  fire. 

The  flames  lent  to  the  hills  and  mountains  on  that  side 
a  weird  appearance,  fitted  to  daunt  the  boldest  heart; 
and  very  shortly  afterwards,  while  regarding  the  fearful 
spectacle,  flames  broke  out  to  the  south,  the  work, 
doubtless,  of  our  recent  adversaries,  who,  on  retiring,  had 
amiably  fired  the  woods  to  interpose  a  barrier  to  our 
further  progress  !  We  stood,  in  fact,  in  a  perfect  circle 
of  fire,   and  never  did  we  pass  a   more  anxious  night  ! 


86  West  and  Central  Africa. 

How  truly  did  we  not  then  recognize  the  truth  of  Stan- 
ley's descriptions  !  How  vast  is  the  difference  between 
the  inhabitants  of  the  middle  basin  of  the  Congo,  into 
which  Europeans  rarely  penetrate,  and  the  comparatively 
gentle  peoples  of  the  south — the  Quiocos,  the  Ganguellas, 
and  the  Songos  !  How  much  savagery  and  ill-faith  are 
centred  in  these  monsters,  for  they  are  men  only  in  form  ! 
And  the  more  we  reflected  upon  the  subject,  the  more 
serious  it  presented  itself  to  our  minds,  for  was  it  likely 
that  matters  would  improve  as  we  went  on  ?  From 
what  side  were  we  likely  to  find  protection,  when  every- 
thing that  bore  a  human  shape  was  our  enemy,  whose 
sole  aim  was  to  bring  about  our  ruin  ? 

A  delicious  morning  dissipated  many  of  the  gloomy 
reflections  born  of  night  and  of  the  horrors  that  sur- 
rounded us.  On  starting,  we  plunged  into  the  woods, 
the  few  natives  that  appeared  fleeing  in  terror  at  our 
approach,  and  shortly  afterwards,  descending  a  steep 
incline,  found  ourselves  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley. 
There  the  gigantic  fig-trees,  m'pafu  (Elemi)  and  immense 
palms,  connected  by  a  network  of  the  spiral  stems  of  the 
Calamus  florus,  and  other  creepers,  formed  an  almost 
impenetrable  jungle,  inhabited  by  troops  of  monkeys  of 
revolting  aspect,  among  which  we  recognized  the  Cyno- 
cephalus  porcarius. 

A  river  with  marshy  banks  then  completely  inter- 
cepted our  path,  and  as  there  was  not  the  ghost  of  a 
bridge,  we  were  compelled  to  wade  across  with  the  water 
up  to  our  waists. 

Continuing  our  way  over  hill  and  dale,  keeping  a 
steady  northerly  course,  at  one  time  through  a  marsh, 
at  another  by  a  piece  of  woodland,  we  came,  by  chance, 
at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  were  despairing 
of  such  good  Inch,  upon  a  little  village  named  Mucole 


Dense  J  tingle.  Sy 

Quipanzo,  where  we  were  at  once  the  victims  of  a 
swindle ;  for  having  engaged  a  guide  there  and  given 
him  six  yards  of  cloth  for  his  services,  the  fellow 
decamped,  and  we  had  to  go  on  without  him. 

The  ground  was  so  frightfully  rough  and  broken  that, 
unable  to  continue  longer  in  a  northerly  direction,  we 
diverged  to  the  eastward,  a  course  that  we  pursued  for 
a  couple  of  days,  one  of  us  suffering  from  fever,  the  other 
from  rheumatism.  The  path  was  encumbered  with  a 
profuse  growth,  called  by  the  natives  mu-chito,  a  perfect 
dedalus,  for  which  the  Hungo  is  celebrated.  We  had 
literally  to  cut  our  way  with  the  hatchet  and  the  sickle, 
and  whole  hours  were  passed  with  immense  labour  to 
open  up  a  mile  of  road. 

Many  a  day  was  spent  during  this  journey  in  the  midst 
of  such  labyrinths,  where  the  foot  of  man  had  probably 
never  before  trodden,  which  the  native  carefully  avoids, 
and  whose  only  inmates  are  monkeys  and  baboons  or 
some  frightful  reptiles,  which  find  a  home  in  the  hollow 
trunk  of  an  ancient  tree  or  about  the  network  of  roots 
that  are  as  much  above  the  ground  as  under. 

These  are  true  thorns  in  the  sides  of  an  explorer,  and 
when  he  meets  them  he  is  bound  to  put  out  all  his  energy, 
so  that  he  may,  by  his  example,  prevent  the  demoralization 
of  those  who  follow  him.  For  as  they  struggle  through 
pestilential  bogs  or  almost  impenetrable  woods,  stumbling 
here,  sinking  there,  laying  down  their  loads  to  take  up 
their  hatchets,  they  would  infallibly  drop  beneath  their 
fatigues  and  deprivations  were  they  not  encouraged  by 
the  words  and  activity  of  their  leaders,  to  whom  they 
look  up,  so  to  speak,  for  inspiration. 

In  the  midst  of  all  our  worries,  labour,  sickness,  and 
torment,  a  gleam  of  pleasure  was  at  length  afforded  us, 
not,  it  is  true,  unmixed  and  unalloyed,  but  that  still,  to  a 


88  West  and  Cenfral  Africa. 

certain  extent,  compensated  ns  for  much  of  the  suffering 
of  the  last  few  days. 

On  the  23rd  of  May,  while  descending  an  easy  slope, 
we  observed  at  the  foot,  and  extending  for  a  considerable 
distance  over  the  lower  ground,  a  thick  growth  of  reeds 
and  osiers  that  hinted  at  the  presence  of  a  large  river. 
Our  conjecture  was  a  true  one,  and  when  we  reached  the 
bottom  we  found  a  vast  stream  of  water  which  the  in- 
habitants of  a  neighbouring  senzala  informed  us  was 
called  the  Cu-gho,  an  affluent  of  the  Ouango,  which  we 
at  once  marked  down  upon  our  map,  and  to  which,  a  little 
later  on,  we  were  enabled  to  assign  a  length  of  100 
miles. 

It  springs,  according  to  our  informants,  in  the  north- 
west, amid  the  territory  of  Macume-N'jimbo,  in  a  spacious 
lake,  and  along  it  lies  a  track  which,  via  Quizau  Malunga, 
connects  the  interior  with  the  coast. 

In  front  of  us,  on  the  north-north-west,  extended  the 
district  of  Quicongo,  rugged,  mountainous,  full  of  lakes, 
lying  at  the  bottom  of  deep  valleys  ;  on  the  west-north- 
west lay  the  lands  of  Quiteca  N'bungo  ;  and  to  the  north 
of  the  latter  appeared  the  territory  of  Futa,  where  nestled 
the  Ba-congo  tribes. 

How  savage  was  the  aspect  of  the  whole  scene  !  Accus- 
tomed as  we  were  by  this  time  to  the  interior  of  Africa, 
it  somehow  seemed  to  us  that  this  region  was  unlike  any- 
thing we  had  yet  beheld  in  it.  The  soil,  the  air,  the  inhabi- 
tants, all  seemed  different.  The  vegetation,  mainly, 
imprints  upon  it  a  distinct  character.  Palms  predominate. 
There  are,  for  instance,  the  Elais,  the  Hyphosne,  the  Boras- 
sus,  a  species  of  Chamoerops  (the  fan-palm),  the  leafy 
Raphias,  whence  is  extracted  the  Maluvo,  of  which  we  shall 
have  more  to  say.  Species  of  hemps  begin  to  appear  in 
families  which  are  generally  herbaceous  near  the  tropics, 


Native  Watermen.  89 

Malvaceas,  more  especially,  among  which  figure  the 
Adansonia  and  Eriodendron  an/.;  and  even  various  Rubia- 
ceas,  show  symptoms  of  this  transformation. 

We  found  in  this  district  numerous  species  of  Nympha- 
ceas,  together  with  Euphorbiaceas  and  Acantaceas ;  pre- 
cisely the  contrary  to  the  Fugeras  and  Orchideas  epidendres, 
which,  rare  throughout  the  continent,  almost  disappear 
in  these  latitudes. 

The  gigantic  Burseraceas,  producing  the  Elemi  balsam, 
to  which  we  have  already  alluded,  under  the  names  of 
rripafn  or  m'bafu,  are  quite  common.  Down  their  enor- 
mous trunks  runs  the  white  resin  which,  evaporating  in 
part,  forms  drops  that  stand  out  like  the  gutterings  of 
huge  wax  tapers.  In  close  proximity  to  the  former  are 
the  colossal  Landolphias,  whence  is  obtained  the  india- 
rubber,  a  gum  that  is  very  abundant  in  the  Hungo. 

We  rested  on  the  23rd  of  May  near  the  libata 
Cambamba,  and  started  off  again  on  the  24th  for  Man- 
gongo,  with  a  view  to  crossing  the  river.  This  operation, 
that  constitutes  one  of  the  most  difficult  problems  in 
Africa,  when  the  traveller  has  to  employ  the  native  boats, 
was  very  nearly  in  our  case  bringing  about  a  serious 
conflict. 

At  the  outset  the  natives  hid  their  canoes  ;  then  they 
would  accept  none  of  our  offers ;  a  little  later  they  averred 
we  should  not  cross  the  river  at  all,  and  only  yielded  at 
last  under  reiterated  persuasion.  And  we  had  to  bear 
all  this  when  we  were  consumed  with  fever ! 

The  passage  at  length  began  ;  but  when  they  had 
carried  half  our  party  over  and  had  thus  divided  the 
expedition,  they  struck,  and  would  do  no  more  work  ! 

"  What  is  the  matter  ?  "  we  inquired. 

"We  don't  intend  to  take  over  any  more." 

"  For  what  reason  ?  " 


90 


West  and  Central  Afr 


rica 


"  Because  four  pieces  are  too  little." 

"  But  a  bargain's  a  bargain.  You  agreed  to  the  terms, 
which  are  your  own." 

"  You  must  give  us  two  more  pieces,  otherwise  you 
may  stop  where  you  are." 

In  a  moment  of  nervous  excitement  we  seized  our  gun 
and  raised  it  to  our  shoulder  with  a  view  to  fire  at  the 


THE    CU-GHO    WATERMEN. 


impudent  swindlers.  But  our  better  judgment  prevailed 
and  prevented  an  act  which  might  have  been  attended 
with  very  serious  consequences. 

We  therefore  had  recourse  to  diplomacy ;  spoke  them 
mildly,  while  we  were  boiling  over  with  rage ;  and  after 
a  promise  of  increased  pay,  and  three  mortal  hours  passed 
in  discussion  and  persuasion,    got    over  safely   to   the 


A  doubtful  Halting-place.  9 1 

other  side,  missing,  however,  at  the  last  moment,  when 
the  fellows  were  all  gone,  a  she-goat  that  had  formed  part 
of  the  last  boat-load. 

Late  as  it  was — four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon — and 
sick,  worn  ont,  and  trembling  with  pain  and  excitement, 
we  were  bound  to  go  further  on  in  search  of  a  convenient 
place  to  pitch  our  camp ;  which,  after  marching  in  a 
north-north-west  direction,  we  thought  we  found  in  the 
midst  of  a  thicket,  and  worked  till  nightfall  at  our  huts. 

Judging  from  the  musty  smell  that  soon  saluted  our 
nostrils,  we  must  have  selected — if  not  the  actual  lairs — 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  haunts  of  wild  beasts  ; 
but  we  were  so  thoroughly  done  up  that  at  that  moment 
we  cared  but  little  where  we  lay  our  heads,  so  that  we 
obtained  rest.  This  blessed  resource  was  happily  not 
denied  us  ;  and  thus  at  the  extreme  limit  of  the  Hungo 
we  slept  profoundly. 


CYNOCEPHALUS    FOKCARIUS. 


92  West  and  Central  Africa. 


CHAPTER  V. 

We  leave  the  Cu-gho — Gloomy  presentiments — The  mu-chitos  and  the 
desert — An  evening  of  tribulations  and  a  devouring  thirst — TryiDg 
times  of  a  life  in  the  interior — A  Providential  interposition — More 
mu-chitos  and  fresh  labour — Caught  in  the  wood — Nervous  state  of 
the  explorers — All  but  lost — Scouts  sent  out  in  search  of  succour — 
Two  lines  from  the  diary — A  terrible  night— Return  of  Jose  and 
brief  narrative  of  his  adventures — Two  solitary  hunters — Fresh 
hopes — Again  astray — An  apparition  of  palancas — Night  again — 
Final  decision. 

With  our  proximity  to  Yacca  commenced  the  most  trying 
portion  of  our  whole  journey.  So  long  as  we  remained 
on  the  Cu-gho  we  remarked,  and  the  guide  confirmed  our 
observation,  that  the  natives  appeared  more  and  more 
anxious  about  the  road  we  intended  to  pursue,  whisper- 
ing among  themselves  that  in  such-or-such  a  direction 
not  a  living  soul  was  to  be  found,  and  that  the  only  known 
track,  that  of  Cha-Massango,  lay  along  the  river's  course. 
We  had,  however,  got  so  accustomed  to  the  assertion 
that  certain  territory  was  a  desert  while  we  found  it 
everywhere  peopled,  that  we  paid  little  heed  to  their 
apprehensions,  and  resolved  to  continue  on. 

On  the  25th  of  May,  therefore,  having  risen  in  the  dark 
and  whilst  the  woods  were  still  echoing  with  the  mourn  - 
ful  cries  of  the  monkeys  and  the  more  painful  ones  of 
the  jackals,  we  were  seated  by  the  fire  waiting  for  day, 
which  an  inexplicable  presentiment  seemed  to  tell  us 
would  be  one  of  trial.     The  blessed  light  of  morning  soon 


Trying  Moments.  93 

appeared,  and  brought  with  it  the  energy  which  naturally 
conies  to  the  man  whose  mind  is  prepared  for  a  great 
struggle. 

"  Wake  up  !  Wake  up  !  "  was  the  cry,  and  the  men 
unrolled  themselves  from  their  mats  and  busied  them- 
selves with  preparations  for  departure. 

No  one  said  a  word ;  we  ourselves,  as  glum  as  our 
followers,  waited  till  all  was  ready,  and  the  silence  that 
had  fallen  upon  the  entire  camp  was  in  singular  contrast 
to  the  hilarity  and  chatter  which  usually  attended  our 
setting  out. 

Our  first  care  was  to  discover  a  path,  and  as  our  guide 
after  a  little  search  found  a  goat  track,  we  struck  into 
it  and  filed  off  in  a  north-easterly  direction. 

For  the  first  hour  we  picked  our  way  amid  the  crags 
which  formed  the  steep  bank  on  the  left  side  of  the  Cu- 
gho,  stopping  occasionally  to  listen  for  the  slightest 
sound  that  indicated  the  existence  of  humanity.  Not 
a  murmur,  however,  met  our  ear,  and  not  a  vestige 
of  a  living  thing  caught  the  eye  as  we  descended  the 
bare  declivity,  plunged  amid  some  ragged  palms,  and 
reached  at  the  bottom  a  deep  ravine,  almost  concealed 
by  the  abundant  vegetation,  where  every  vestige  of  a 
path  had  disappeared. 

Face  to  face  with  this  new  obstacle,  we  groped  about 
till  we  found  an  opening  into  which,  stooping  our  heads, 
it  was  so  low,  we  unhesitatingly  dived.  The  hard  sand- 
stone was  here  succeeded  by  a  spongy  soil,  that  soon 
became  a  slough  covered  with  leaves,  osiers,  and  sprays 
of  the  Metroxilon,  through  which  water  was  perceptible. 
We  were  evidently  in  the  channel  of  a  little  river. 

In  lieu  of  the  radiant  light  of  the  sun  we  had  a  semi- 
darkness  which  scarcely  enabled  us  to  pick  our  way, 
and  the  light  boughs  of  wavy  trees  were   replaced    by 


94  West  and  Central  Africa. 

giant  trunks  with  overhanging  branches  scarcely  less 
gigantic. 

The  forest,  ever  increasing  in  density,  became  at  last 
all  but  impenetrable,  so  that  we  had  to  make  a  dozen 
trials  ere  we  could  force  a  passage.  At  half -past  nine, 
all  but  disheartened,  and  yet  apprehensive  of  stopping 
where  we  were,  we  came  to  a  halt  and  sent  scouts  out 
in  different  directions,  with  orders  to  communicate  their 
position  by  shouts  and  cries.  The  reports  of  several 
guns  from  the  north  made  us  start  in  that  direction,  and 
after  tracking  our  way  through  the  underwood  we  got 
out  of  the  maze  and  reached  our  companions. 

It  was  then  ten  o'clock.  The  sun,  that  was  high  in 
the  heavens,  darted  his  full  beams  upon  the  neighbouring 
plain,  covered  with  a  new  kind  of  low  and  yellow  grass, 
which  we  got  through  without  much  difficulty ;  but 
before  three  quarters  of  an  hour  had  elapsed  we  found 
ourselves  engulfed  in  another  thicket  of  colossal  mu- 
chito,  which  covered  for  some  few  leagues  the  entire 
basin  of  a  broad  river  called  the  Ouviji. 

It  is  difficult  to  conceive  the  dangers  that  beset  a 
traveller  in  these .  woods.  The  black  and  shifting  soil, 
formed  by  the  accumulations  of  centuries  of  debris  of 
the  vegetable  world,  the  humidity  below  retained  by  the 
imperviousness  of  the  subjacent  bed  of  clay,  the  tepid 
vapours  of  the  soil  rising  like  a  thick  cloud  between  the 
tree-trunks,  the  water  dropping  from  the  upper  leaves, 
the  suffocating  heat,  the  sudden  chill,  the  overpowering 
smell  of  decayed  vegetation,  mingled  with  the  pungent 
odours  of  other  living  plants,  constitute  a  sum  of  elements 
that  the  pen  attempts  in  vain  to  describe. 

Pushing  on  through  this  wonderfully  beautiful  but 
still  fearful  forest,  with  many  a  hard  struggle  by  the 
way,  the  caravan,  as  before,  came  at  length  to  the  end, 


A  frigh tfu  I  Position .  9  5 

and  emerged  into  the  open.  The  prospect  before  ns 
was  a  rugged  bit  of  country,  exhibiting  various  bare, 
circular  mounts  and  deep,  green  valleys,  of  which  our  past 
experience  made  us  doubtful,  but  not  the  slightest  indi- 
cation of  a  track  to  show  that  it  had  been  traversed  by 
man. 

We  stood,  in  fact,  in  a  perfect  desert,  and  a  very  short 
halt  under  the  burning  sun  produced  a  thirst  which  it 
was  difficult  to  satisfy.  The  men  sought  for  water  every- 
where, but  not  the  smallest  brooklet  was  discoverable  in 
dale  or  valley. 

At  4.30  p.m.  we  found  ourselves  on  the  summit  of  a 
lofty  mount,  dropping  with  fatigue,  burnt  by  the  sun, 
and  fainting  with  thirst.  A  magnificent  panorama  of 
hills  and  conical  rocks,  disconnected  and  without  order, 
was  presented  to  our  view,  and  as  we  regarded  it,  our 
hearts  sank  within  us,  for  we  readily  comprehended 
that  as  there  were  no  river-beds,  the  water  which  fell 
from  the  clouds  and  formed  little  lakes  in  the  hollows 
became  speedily  dried  up.  Nevertheless,  we  despatched 
half  a  score  of  men  in  different  directions  to  search  once 
more  for  the  precious  liquid,  but  they  returned  one 
after  the  other  without  success. 

The  position  was  a  most  critical  one,  for  evening 
would  soon  be  upon  us,  and  yet,  what  was  to  be  done  ? 
Anyway,  remaining  there  was  useless  ;  so  putting  our  trust 
in  Providence  we  resumed  our  wearisome  journey,  our- 
selves taking  the  lead  by  way  of  setting  an  example  to 
our  half-demoralized  caravan. 

But  as  we  trudged  along,  uncomfortable  ideas  rose  up 
in  our  minds,  and  found  expression  in  the  half-muttered 
words,  What  if  the  reports  of  the  dwellers  by  the  Cu-gho 
should  be  correct,  and  the  territory  on  which  we  are 
entering  be   indeed  a  desert,    devoid  of  water,  bare  of 


96  West  and  Central  Africa. 

people,  with  no  resources  to  support  animal  life,  and  the 
further  penetration  into  which  will  involve  destruction, 
by  starvation  and  thirst  ! 

Shaking  off  with  difficulty  these  gloomy  reflections,  and 
clinging  to  the  hope  engendered  of  former  experience,  we 
kept  sturdily  on  our  way.  As  ill-luck  would  have  it, 
two  of  the  carriers,  overcome  with  fatigue  and  thirst,  set 
down  their  loads  after  we  had  got  over  a  couple  of  miles, 
and  declared  they  could  go  no  further,  so  we  had  to  carry 
the  guns  of  our  immediate  attendants,  and  make  them 
assist  in  conveying  the  goods. 

It  was  then  half-past  five  in  the  afternoon,  and  our 
anxiety  had  reached  its  culminating-point.  In  front, 
some  of  the  strongest  and  boldest  of  our  party  eagerly 
pressed  on,  in  the  hope  of  being  the  first  to  slake  their 
burning  thirst,  but  it  was  labour  in  vain,  mountain, 
plain,  and  valley  alike  showed  by  their  sterility 'that  no 
water  was  there. 

The  sun  was  already  hidden  behind  a  bank  of  cloud,  a 
mantle,  as  it  were,  waiting  to  enwrap  the  god  of  day  as 
he  sank  towards  the  western  horizon,  and  his  disap- 
pearance lent  a  most  melancholy  aspect  to  the  arid 
district.  Day  was  about  to  close,  and  heaven  only  knew 
what  was  to  become  of  us  after  thirty  hours'  thirst ! 
Most  assuredly,  by  the  following  morning,  not  one  among 
our  men  would  be  capable  of  taking  a  step  under  a  load 
weighing  seventy  pounds. 

But  that  was  not  the  worst ;  our  discomfort  was  deep 
enough,  but  a  lower  depth  was  looming  in  the  distance. 
Without  water,  how  were  we  to  cook  our  infundi  ?  And 
how,  therefore,  should  we  manage  if  we  suffered  from 
hunger  and  thirst  combined  ? 

In  the  depressed  condition  of  our  minds,  what  wonder 
if  we  should  ask  ourselves    whether  the  barbarians   of 


Losing  Heart. 


97 


Central  Africa  were  worthy  of  the  sacrifices  we  and 
others  made  on  their  behalf  ?  when  all  our  labour,  care, 
anxieties  and  suffering  were  to  be  met  by  ingratitude  ! 

But  we  had  brief  space  for  these  or  any  reflections. 
The  lads  of  the  party  who  had  borne  up  so  bravely  began 
to  give  way,  and  first  one  and  then  another  slipped  to 
the  ground  with  his  burthen,  and  cried,  "  We  can  do  no 


SLOWLY   DESCENDING    FROM    A    HEIGHT. 


more.  Let  us  go  back,  senhors,  let  us  go  back.  There 
was  water  on  the  road  we  came  from,  there  is  nothing 
ahead  of  us  but  rocks  and  stones." 

We  spoke  to  them  kindly  and  encouragingly ,  though 
our  words  scarce  found  an  echo  in  our  own  hearts.  We 
urged  them  to  take  a  little  rest  and  then  try  again ; 
assured  them  that  their  fatigue  and  trouble  would  soon 

VOL.    IT.  H 


98  West  and  Central  Africa. 

end,  and  that  water  and  food  would  shortly  be  at  their 
disposal.  And  as  we  uttered  the  promise,  the  report  of 
a  gun  and  then  another  from  the  front  broke  upon  our 
ear,  and  was  repeated  from  the  rocks  around,  as  if  a 
dozen  muskets  had  been  fired.  A  frenzied  excitement 
at  the  signal  succeeded  the  depression  that  was  akin  to 
despair.  Hoarse  cries  came  from  the  cracking  lips 
which  a  moment  before  seemed  incapable  of  proffering 
a  word.  Arms,  baggage,  everything  that  encumbered 
the  motion  of  the  limbs,  were  for  the  time  abandoned, 
and  the  long  file  of  carriers  just  then  slowly  descending 
from  a  height  appeared  to  be  animated  with  a  feverish 
life,  and  rushed  downwards  eager  to  see  the  origin  of 
the  preconcerted  signal. 

Before  us  ran  a  vast  river  which  one  of  the  lads, 
Fortuna,  happily  named,  had  just  before  discovered. 
Like  madmen  we  dashed  into  the  stream,  buried  our 
faces  in  the  limpid  water,  drank  it  as  a  dog  might  do, 
little  reflecting,  and  for  the  moment  little  caring  that 
everything  we  then  possessed  of  means  was  strown  upon 
the  rugged  way  ! 

When  we  had  come  to  our  senses  we  began  to  think 
of  our  encampment,  and  while  part  of  the  men  in  far 
different  spirits  returned  to  the  place  where  they  had 
left  the  baggage  which  they  gradually  collected,  others 
filled  their  calabashes  with  water  and  made  preparations 
for  the  evening  meal.  They  were  all,  however,  much 
too  tired  to  construct  the  usual  huts,  so  we  determined 
to  take  our  rest  in  the  open.  Never  was  rest  more 
needed ;  and  under  the  brilliant  stars  which  twinkled  in 
the  vast  canopy  of  heaven  we  composed  ourselves  to 
sleep. 

By  midnight  the  south-east  wind  that  had  been  blow- 
ing, moderated,  and  the  moon,  as  she  rose,  looked  down 


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THE  MU-CHITO. 


Page  99. 


Impenetrable  Jungle.  99 

peacefully  upon  our  handful  of  men,  lying  in  easy  atti- 
tudes about  the  smouldering  camp  fires,  in  happy 
forgetfulness  of  the  trying  adventures  of  the  day.  Ere 
we  dropped  off,  we  heard,  mingled  with  the  rush  of  the 
Fortuna  between  its  dark  green  banks,  other  strange 
sounds  due  to  the  various  quadrumen,  as  they  chased 
each  other  amid  the  boughs  of  the  trees,  or  to  the 
night-birds  shrieking  as  they  flew  by. 

On  the  26th,  at  daybreak,  well  provided  with  water, 
having  despatched  what  remained  of  some  dried  meat, 
we  started  along  the  high  ground  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion, in  search  this  time  of  food,  for  we  felt  convinced 
that  along  the  river  we  should  fall  upon  the  Cuango  (of 
which  we  conceived  the  Fortuna  was  an  affluent)  and 
the  human  habitations  we  sought.  Unfortunately,  we 
were  perfectly  wrong  in  our  conjectures,  and  at  about 
four  miles  from  our  starting-place,  we  discovered,  im- 
mediately beneath  our  feet,  a  ravine,  into  which  we 
descended. 

But  on  reaching  the  bottom  we  found  a  dense  thicket 
of  trees  and  our  old  enemy,  the  mu-chito,  where  we  lost 
ourselves  for  a  couple  of  hours.  On  emerging  from  it 
between  the  river  and  a  lofty  bank  on  the  south  side, 
we  kept  along  the  ridge  till  we  met  with  another  thick 
wood,  where  we  soon  found  that  we  were  completely 
surrounded  by  water  and  plants. 

The  caravan  floundered  about  the  high  and  stubborn 
grass  in  search  of  some  opening  whereby  they  might 
issue  from  the  trap — but  for  a  long  time  unsuccessfully. 
At  length,  fancying  we  saw  a  sort  of  track  through  the 
dense  vegetation,  we  followed  it,  but  to  our  dismay  soon 
observed,  by  unmistakable  signs,  that  it  was  a  path 
made  by  hippopotami,  and  all  our  care  had  to  be  devoted 
to  the  task  of  not  running  against  the  monsters. 

h  2 


IOO 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


As  we  stayed  our  steps  for  awhile,  the  silence  was 
profound.  The  river,  choked  with  rushes  and  canes, 
seemed  to  run  in  every  direction,  or  to  divide  itself  into 
numerous  branches,  and  while  one  of  them  appeared  to 
flow  eastward,  another  decidedly  ran  towards  the  north. 
Making  our  way  to  the  margin,  we  found  matters  even 
worse ;  the  treacherous  soil  gave  way  beneath  our  weight 
and  we  sank  up  to  our  knees,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to 
lend  a  hand  to  help  the  vanguard  out. 

Dead-tired  and  depressed  in  spirits,  we  felt  ready  to 
succumb  beneath  the  weight  of  such  gigantic  difficulties, 
unknowing  what  to  do  or  what  to  advise,  and  our  spirits 
were  not  raised  by  the  questions  we  overheard  our  com- 
panions put  to  each  other. 

"  Where  is  it  we  are  going  to  ?  How  shall  we  ever 
get  through  this  desert  country — without  food — without 
a  path — where  wild  beasts  may  meet  us  at  every  turn?  " 

How  indeed !  we  began  to  ask  ourselves ;  and  is  it 
not  a  species  of  insanity  to  go  further  ?  The  only  other 
course  open  is  to  turn  back,  but  then,  what  becomes  of 
our  labour  and  our  mission  ? 

Torn  by  these  conflicting  emotions — the  feeling  of  the 
quasi-impossibility  of  advancing  pulling  us  in  one  direc- 
tion, while  our  duty  and  our  pride  were  urging  us  in 
another — we  still  went  on  till  we  were  ready  to  drop. 

The  life  of  the  woods,  which  is  generally  miserable 
enough,  becomes  aggravated  in  all  its  worst  features  as 
the  traveller  plunges  deeper  into  this  great  continent. 
The  huge  obstacles  and  constant  privations  not  merely 
weaken  and  wear  out  his  body,  but  at  the  end  of  some 
months'  marching  they  produce  a  state  of  irritability, 
and  nervous  excitement  closely  allied  to  derangement. 
An  extraordinary  change  in  individual  character  soon  be- 
comes apparent.     The  extravagance  of  gesture,  precipi- 


Over  sir  a  ined  Nerves .  i  o  i 

tation  in  every  act,  abruptness  in  issuing  orders,  baseless 
fears,  and  a  desire  to  rush  along  the  road,  as  though 
pursued  by  some  phantom,  all  are  evidence  of  the  change 
that  is  being  wrought,  and  are  symptoms  of  the  malady 
known  here  as  African  spleen. 

The  ideas  which  at  such  times  rise  up  in  the  mind  are, 
as  a  matter  of  course,  closely  connected  with  the  objects 
of  the  explorer.  A  plan  that  he  may  have  conceived 
becomes  a  pivot  upon  which  turn  all  the  labours  of  the 
brain ;  by  day,  during  whole  hours  of  abstraction,  he 
figures  to  himself  endless  streams,  colossal  lakes,  new 
tracks,  and  strange  habitations ;  by  night  his  dreams  are 
still  of  Africa,  but  mingled  with  them,  the  extravagances 
and  monstrosities  proper  to  a  state  of  semi-conscious- 
ness. 

How  often  when  in  that  half-sleeping,  half-waking 
condition  have  we  not  beheld  the  Cuango,  coursing 
through  a  vast  plain,  and  finally  debouching  into  the 
Congo-Zaire  !  How  often  have  we  not  dwelt  on  the 
awful  beauty  of  that  region,  and  wandered  through  the 
vast  basin  of  the  immense  river,  noting  the  huge  plain, 
here  covered  by  many  feet  of  water,  there  clothed  with  a 
dense  vegetation  exhaling  miasma  and  death  under  a 
blinding,  scorching  sun !  We  could  even  trace  the 
course  of  the  numerous  rivers  that  flowed  into  the  all- 
absorbing  stream ;  the  Cuango,  the  Lu-angue,  the  Cas- 
sai,  the  Moaza-N'gombe,  converging  to  one  receptacle, 
where  their  waters  intermingled  !  In  that  same  half- 
dreamy  state  we  found  ourselves  gathering  information 
from  native  sources,  passing  through  scenes  of  the  most 
extravagant  character,  yet  bearing  an  impress  of  such 
vivid  reality,  that  when  we  were  broad  awake,  we  tried, 
but  tried  in  vain  to  dismiss  them  from  our  mind.  The 
map  of  Africa  was  stereotyped  upon  our  brain,  and  not 


102  West  and  Central  Africa. 

even  the  pitchy  darkness  of  our  hut  could  shut  it  from 
our  view  ! 

Did  these  strange  vagaries,  these  fixed  prepossessions 
portend  the  dawn  of  madness  ?  Was  the  brain  yielding 
to  the  pressure  put  upon  it,  while  the  body  was 
weakened  by  fever,  privations,  and  fatigues  ?  It  was  a 
fearful  fear,  and  as,  from  this  lapse  of  time,  we  look 
back  upon  those  terrible  days  and  try  to  realize  all  the 
dread  apprehensions  that  we  then  suffered,  a  feeling  of 
infinite  pity  and  compassion  for  the  suffering  mortals 
comes  over  us,  as  though  for  men  who  were  other  than 
ourselves  ! 

Amid  the  straits  to  which  we  were  now  reduced, 
there  was  one  great  and  overpowering  necessity  which 
demanded  instant  attention,  that  of  procuring  food ;  so 
abandoning  the  margin  of  the  river,  we  cut  a  path  with 
the  hatchet  through  the  forest  which  clothed  the  moun- 
tain side,  in  order  to  reach  the  summit  and  obtain  a  view 
of  the  surrounding  country,  and  when  we  did  so  we 
saw  the  folly  of  our  recent  struggles,  and  obtained  an 
explanation  of  the  imaginary  branches  of  the  river  we 
had  been  pursuing.  The  forest  extended  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach,  and  iu  the  open  ground  we  distinctly 
observed  two  rivers,  one  to  the  north,  the  other  to 
the  south  of  the  mountain,  and  whose  waters  met  at 
some  distance  beyond  its  foot;  the  smaller  one,  the 
Fortuna,  our  recent  discovery,  which  flowed  into  the 
Cu-gho ;  and  the  point  where  we  stood,  was  the  massango, 
or  confluence  of  the  streams. 

With  the  knowledge  thus  acquired,  there  remained  no 
doubt  upon  our  minds  that  we  must  retrace  our  steps, 
as  a  forward  motion  was  simply  impossible.  As  we 
continued  our  observations,  we  remarked  in  the  far  dis- 
tance, eastward,  what  we  took  to  be  smoke,  but  no  sign 
of  a  human  dwelling.     The  country  was  utterly  deserted, 


Sending  out  Scoiits.  103 

and  our  stomachs,  in  consequence  of  the  disappoint- 
ment, began  to  protest  energetically  against  the  neglect 
to  which  they  were  subjected. 

It  was  then  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  so  calling 
a  council  we  resolved  upon  a  plan  which  we  proceeded 
forthwith  to  put  into  execution.  Fortuna,  the  lucky  (for 
we  had  reached  a  stage  when  such  superstitious  trifles 
were  not  ignored),  accompanied  by  a  couple  of  com- 
panions, was  ordered  to  proceed  in  an  easterly  direction, 
and  he  was  furnished  with  a  gun  wherewith  to  signal 
in  case  of  a  discovery  and  defend  himself  and  party 
against  attack.  Somma,  an  intelligent  and  active 
mu-sumbi,  with  three  or  four  more,  was  instructed 
to  make  his  way  to  the  south  in  search  of  game  or  any- 
thing else  in  the  shape  of  food,  while  Jose,  the  guide,  was 
desired  to  go  northwards,  to  see  if  he  could  meet  with 
the  habitations  of  man.  We  ourselves  were  meanwhile 
to  keep  watch  and  ward  with  the  reserves  over  our 
goods,  and  wait  for  tidings  from  the  scouts. 

When  they  had  departed  we  set  to  work  to  construct 
an  encampment  and  scour  the  neighbourhood  in  search 
of  edible  roots.  As  the  quest  was  perfectly  unsuccess- 
ful, we  were  fain  to  content  ourselves  with  cold  water, 
and  such  scraps  of  flour  as  we  could  gather  from  the 
sack  after  it  was  turned  inside  out  like  a  glove.  Then 
we  entered  in  our  diary  the  laconic  phrases  which  we 
literally  transcribe  : — 

Portuguese-African  Expedition. 
May  26th,  1879.  Page  542. 

Aneroid  2349  ft.  Temperature  84°  Fahr. 

An  awful  day.  Camped  on  a  mount  near  the  confluence  of  the 
Cu-gho  and  Fortuna,  completely  cleared  out  of  provisions.  "Very  down 
and  glumpy.  Country  deserted.  Not  a  soul  yet  met  with.  Hungry, 
feverish,  and  sick.     Horary  for  longitude  : 

O  at  2h  =  53,  31.     H  =  l\  50m.  28s.  30*.     Azith.  =  369,9. 
Q  mer.  =  67,97. 
What  next  ?     We  must  wait. 


104  West  and  Central  Africa. 

It  was  the  only  thing  to  do,  so  we  did  it  with  resig- 
nation while  counting  the  minutes  and  listening  to  catch 
the  slightest  sound.  But  in  the  immense  solitude  there 
reigned  a  sepulchral  silence  which  we  ourselves  scarcely 
ventured  to  break. 

Meanwhile  the  sun  ran  his  imperturbable  course; 
passed  through  the  stages  from  brilliant  yellow  to  deep 
orange,  and  nearing  the  horizon  irradiated  the  patches 
of  cloud  which  floated  beneath  the  azure  vault  of 
heaven,  shot  a  few  grand  rays  through  a  rent  in  the 
dense  vapour,  and  then,  in  disappearing,  carried  with 
him  our  last  lingering  hopes  ! 

"  Nothing, "  we  murmured  sadly  to  each  other ;  "  other- 
wise they  would  have  returned." 

Night  fell,  and  brought  with  it  increased  depression. 
Extensive  fires  in  the  east  and  the  moon  which  then 
rose  seemed  to  augment  the  solemnity  of  the  prospect. 

Hours  passed  over  when  we  were  aroused  by  the  report 
of  a  gun  ;  it  was  Somma  with  his  party ;  and  shortly  after 
another  report  warned  us  of  the  arrival  of  Fortuna.  They 
brought  us,  unluckily,  no  comfort ;  they  had  found  no 
cultivation,  no  track,  not  a  vestige  of  a  human  thing.  The 
forest,  they  said,  was  all  around  us,  but  they  had  sought  in 
vain  for  a  path  which  could  hint  of  its  ever  being  traversed. 

In  Jose,  now,  lay  the  sole  hope  that  was  left  us,  and 
our  readers  may  believe  that  we  did  so  with  intense 
anxiety.  His  route  had  been  northwards,  and  in  that 
direction  we  looked  and  watched. 

As  early  as  four  in  the  morning  we  were  on  the  look- 
out ;  we  had  tried  to  sleep,  but  in  vain ;  we  had  been 
listening  the  night  through.  The  morning  breeze  as  it 
fanned  our  fevered  temples  was  an  immense  relief ;  but 
we  were  faint  and  sick  for  want  of  sustenance. 

The  sun  reappeared  and  lit  up  all  the  landscape ;  but 


A  slight  Diversion.  105 

to  us  it  brought  little  relief,  as  we  regarded  the  worn 
and  haggard  looks  of  our  companions  in  misfortune.  As 
for  ourselves,  wrapped  in  our  great-coats,  seated  on  the 
ground  and  our  backs  supported  by  the  open  trunks,  we 
wound  up  our  chronometers  and  recorded  the  readings 
of  the  thermometers,  and  having  thus  performed  our 
duty  towards  science,  restored  the  instruments  to  their 
places  and  once  more  gazed  out  upon  the  country. 

There  was  nothing  new  in  it;  there  was  no  change 
from  the  day  before;  the  same  valleys  and  the  same 
woodland  met  our  eyes,  and  the  same  silence  reigned 
over  all. 

As  time  sped  on,  it  became  urgent  upon  us  we  knew 
to  take  some  resolution,  to  make  some  effort  unless  we 
intended  to  wait,  with  arms  folded,  for  the  approach  of 
death  by  starvation.  But  what  was  that  resolution, 
what  that  effort  to  be  ?  To  return  ?  we  were  far  from 
any  inhabited  place ;  by  the  road  we  had  come  it  would 
take  us  two  long  days,  and  how  were  they  to  be  got 
through,  fasting,  while  we  had  already  fasted  so  long  ? 
To  go  forward  ?  whither  ?  amid  the  frightful  obstacles 
we  beheld  from  our  point  of  observation  ?  And  Jose  ? 
could  we,  ought  we  to  abandon  him  ?  A  thousand  times, 
no  !  Remain  we  must,  and  to  remain  we  resolved ; 
further  determining  to  use  our  efforts  to  draw  fish  from 
the  river  and  to  scour  the  woods  in  search  of  game. 

The  idea  was  no  sooner  uttered  than  it  was  seized 
upon  with  avidity,  and  once  again  did  the  encampment 
display  a  semblance  of  motion.  Anything  that  could 
serve  for  a  net  was  hastily  rummaged  out ;  lead  was  cut 
into  little  pieces  to  make  small  shot  for  birds ;  some  of 
the  hands  set  to  work  to  manufacture  snares,  and 
parties  were  in  the  very  act  of  setting  out  for  the  river, 
when   from  the  forest,  in  a    north-west  direction,  the 


io6 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


report  of  a  couple  of  guns  turned  us  for  the  moment 
into  statues  ! 

"It  is  Jose  !  "  was  the  universal  cry. 

And  as  we  looked  we  saw  Jose  and  his  companions 
emerge  from  the  wood,  with  a  firm  and  elastic  step 
which  was  in  strong  contrast  with  our  own  weakness, 


JOSE    AND    HIS    COMPANIONS    EMERGED    FROM    THE    WOOD. 


bearing  upon  their  heads  what  we  felt  was  to  restore  us 
to  new  life  ! 

It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  wild  joy  which  took 
possession  of  our  whole  band  at  the  sight.  As  the  men 
rushed  towards  the  new  arrivals,  eager  to  relieve  them 
of  their  load,  they  cried, — 

"  Is  it  food  you  are  bringing  us  ?  " 


Return  of  Jose.  107 

And  Jose  raised  aloft  a  string  of  bagres  from  the  river, 
drew  from  his  belt  a  root  of  manioc  which  he  flourished 
in  the  air,  and  pointed  to  the  packages  carried  by  his 
attendants,  in  eloquent  but  silent  answer  to  the  eager 
queries. 

Jose's  expedition,  as  subsequently  related  to  us,  may 
be  summed  up  in  few  words. 

When  he  and  his  party  left  us  the  evening  before,  he 
made  his  way  through  the  neighbouring  woods,  and 
coming  out  upon  the  river,  considerably  higher  up  than 
we  had  met  it,  they  found  to  their  satisfaction  that  they 
could  ford  it,  which  they  at  once  proceeded  to  do. 
Having  reached  the  other  side,  they  observed  what 
appeared  to  be  a  goat-track,  into  which  they  at  once 
struck,  and  marching  along  it,  uninterruptedly,  they 
came,  to  the  surprise  of  the  guide,  upon  a  solitary  hut, 
all  but  buried  in  the  high  grass.  On  entering  they  found 
.themselves  in  presence  of  a  couple  of  hunters,  who  had 
taken  up  their  residence  in  that  spot  in  order  to  pursue 
their  avocation.  The  men  were  intelligent  and  friendly, 
and  Jose  had  no  difficulty  in  bartering  a  piece  of  cloth 
and  a  bag  of  beads  for  some  thirty  bagres,  a  parcel  of 
manioc  roots,  about  eight  pounds  of  flour,  and  a  couple  of 
bindas  of  maluvo ;  he,  moreover,  drew  from  them  a  pro- 
mise to  act  as  our  guides  upon  the  road.  He  would 
have  returned  that  very  night,  but  learning  that  the 
forest  was  not  particularly  safe  during  the  hours  of  dark- 
ness, owing  to  the  wild  beasts  by  which  it  was  infested, 
he  discreetly  waited  till  the  next  morning  before  making 
the  return  journey. 

Whilst  our  worthy  guide  was  doling  out  his  news,  we 
were  in  like  manner  distributing  the  provisions  he  had 
brought,  and  though  the  banquet  was  not  a  luxurious  one, 
still  manioc  root  and  dried  fish  to  a  man  who  has  been 


1 08  West  mid  Central  Af7'ica. 

next  door  to  starvation  are  not  by  any  means  to  be 
despised.  Heartily  thanking  Jose  for  his  good  service, 
which  we  promised  duly  to  reward  on  reaching  the  coast, 
we  resolved  to  lose  no  time  in  pursuing  the  path  he  had 
discovered ;  and  so  soon  as  the  wants  of  nature  were 
satisfied,  we  got  ourselves  into  marching  order  and  broke 
up  our  camp. 

Our  course  was  north-westerly,  and  following  in  the 
footsteps  of  the  guide,  we  arrived,  after  about  an  hour's 
march,  at  the  point  where  the  Fortuna  was  fordable,  and 
which  river,  as  Jose  informed  us,  was  called  by  the  natives 
Unguiji,  and  came  from  a  far  distance  and  had  its  rise 
in  a  lake. 

On  reaching  the  other  side  we  began  climbing  in  an 
oblique  direction  a  rugged  mount,  which  made  us  per- 
spire at  every  pore,  till  the  caravan  at  length  sighted  the 
hut  spoken  of  by  Jose,  and  that  had  been  prudently 
erected  beside  a  running  brook.  It  was  then  11.30  a.m. 
of  the  27th  May,  1879. 

We  did  not  consider  it  of  good  augury  that,  on  our 
arrival  at  the  hut,  its  two  inmates  should  take  to  flight 
and  conceal  themselves  in  the  wood,  but  this  was  what 
they  did  on  catching  the  first  glimpse  of  our  people,  and 
it  required  all  Jose's  powers  of  persuasion  to  induce  them 
to  return.  When  they  did  so  we  endeavoured  to  persuade 
them  to  guide  us  to  some  inhabited  spot,  on  the  bank  of 
the  Ouango  which,  after  an  infinity  of  trouble  and  tempt- 
ing promises,  they  agreed  to  do,  and  took  the  lead  of  the 
caravan  for  the  purpose. 

Unencumbered  by  any  stores  of  provisions  we  rapidly 
skirted  the  forest  and  crossing  an  arid,  granite  mount,  we 
descended  on  to  the  picturesque  margin  of  the  river 
Mapemba,  where  we  halted  ten  minutes  for  a  rest.  On 
resuming  our  march  we  scaled  the  lofty  bank  on  the  oppo- 


In  fresh  Troubles.  109 

site  side  and  found  on  the  top  a  vast  plain,  destitute  of 
trees,  through  which  wound  a  sort  of  track. 

Our  guides  here  said  they  could  go  no  farther,  and  that 
we  had  only  to  follow  the  path  to  find  ourselves  at  the 
Cuango.  Little  agreeable  as  the  announcement  was  to 
our  mind — for  recent  experience  had  made  us  suspicious 
and  doubtful — there  was  no  help  for  it  but  to  let  them 
go,  more  particularly  as  being  paid  beforehand  we  had  no 
means  of  detaining  them.  On  separating,  therefore,  we 
pursued  our  way,  but  after  the  lapse  of  about  an  hour, 
all  indication  of  a  track  having  disappeared,  we  lost  our- 
selves completely  in  the  high  grass  ! 

Some  of  our  readers  may  perhaps  argue, — 

"  But  in  the  centre  of  a  plain,  with  compass  in  hand,  it 
surely  must  be  easy  to  reach  any  determinate  point." 

To  which  we  will  make  answer,  that  until  tried,  few  can 
tell  how  difficult  it  is  to  follow  a  right  line  where  there  is 
no  visible  point  in  the  distance  ;  and  this  was  exactly  our 
case,  for  owing  to  the  high  grass  and  cistus  that  sur- 
rounded us,  all  view  was  completely  shut  out. 

Groping  about,  therefore,  amid  these  obstacles,  our 
course  was  very  far  from  being  a  straight  one  ;  the  sun 
blazed  down  upon  our  heads  ;  fatigue  began  to  weigh  our 
limbs,  and  there  loomed  upon  our  minds  the  probability  of 
a  renewal  of  our  sufferings  from  hunger,  thirst,  and 
anxiety. 

The  Cuango  lay,  to  a  certainty,  in  an  east-north-east 
direction,  and  to  that  point  we  endeavoured  to  steer,  so 
putting  in  the  vanguard  three  of  our  stoutest  hands,  to 
cut  away  the  grass  and  weeds  that  blocked  the  way,  we 
followed  slowly  on. 

Ill-luck  appeared  to  pursue  us  upon  this  terrible  journey 
and  with  cruel  irony  placed  food,  so  to  speak,  within  our 
reach  only  to  snatch  it  away.     As  we  plodded  along,  one 


1 10  West  and  Central  Africa. 

of  the  carriers  reported  that  he  had  seen  upon  the  left 
various  dark,  moving  objects  which  he  took  to  be 
palancas. 

We  at  once  started  in  search,  working  round  to  leeward 
of  the  spot,  so  as  to  prevent  their  getting  scent  of  us. 
In  a  few  minutes  we  came  in  sight  of  them  and  could 
observe  their  beautiful  heads  peering  between  the  grass. 


THE  PALANCAS. 


They  were  large  female  antelopes,  hornless,  with  long 
necks,  elegant  in  shape,  with  very  light  and  lustrous 
skin,  having  the  appearance  at  first  sight  of  a  herd  of 
wild  asses.  On  our  nearer  approach,  something  caused 
them  to  take  the  alarm ;  and  hesitating  for  a  moment  in 
restless  attitude,  they  darted  away  with  all  speed. 

We  let  fly  a  couple  of  barrels  at  the  nearest,  but  missed ; 
and  to   our  immense  annoyance  and   the    surprise    and 


Renewed  Disappointments.  1 1 1 

disappointment  of  the  whole  caravan,  they  got  off  scot- 
free  !  We  followed  them  up  for  some  distance,  but  we 
might  as  well  have  chased  the  wind,  for  not  another  shot 
was  afforded  us !  One  of  us  succeeded  in  getting  a 
hasty  sketch,  tolerably  approximate  to  the  truth,  but  that 
was  the  only  record  afforded  us  of  their  apparition. 

This  last  misfortune  seemed  to  deprive  our  crew  of 
what  little  courage  was  left  them.  Ten  hours,  which 
appeared  as  many  months  in  length,  had  elapsed  since 
we  left  the  banks  of  the  river  Fortuna,  and  still  there 
was  no  evidence  of  human  habitation.  Surely,  we  thought, 
one  more  day  of  such  suffering  will  decide  our  fate,  and 
the  caravan,  already  demoralized,  must  perish  of  inanition. 
The  very  Ban-sumbi,  the  most  robust  of  our  men,  were 
sinking  beneath  the  strain  put  upon  them,  and  we  ex- 
pected at  any  moment  they  would  throw  down  their  loads 
and  refuse  to  carry  them  further.  The  young  niggers 
hobbled  along,  bent  like  old  men ;  the  women,  in  most 
instances  overladen  with  their  infants,  the  perspiration 
pouring  from  them  as  they  walked,  took  every  opportu- 
nity of  stopping  by  the  way,  more  willing  to  resign  them-- 
selves  to  their  fate,  if  it  brought  them  rest,  than  to  go  on 
seeking  for  what  they  deemed  undiscoverable.  We  our- 
selves, though  carrying  no  load,  did  not  suffer  less  than 
any  of  our  people.  A  general  debility  had  taken  posses- 
sion of  our  entire  organism,  rendering  it  difficult  for  us  to 
stand  upright,  owing  to  the  indescribable  pains  in  the 
back  and  loins. 

It  was  mainly  in  the  ascents  that  these  inconveni- 
ences and  troubles  were  experienced,  every  hill-side 
becoming  a  calvary,  upon  which  we  expected  to  faint 
and  die.  Our  temples  on  these  occasions  beat  ]ike  sledge- 
hammers, our  eyes  were  veiled  with  mist,  and  the  rapid 
action  of  the  heart  produced  a  feeling  as  of  suffocation. 

The  sun  was  rapidly  declining  ;  the  heat  diminished, 


I  12 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


but  in  the  same  proportion  our  hunger  and  thirst 
increased,  and  yet  the  further  we  went,  the  more  dis- 
tant still  appeared  our  chances  of  alleviation. 

Knowing,  however,  from  cruel  experience,  the  danger  of 
stopping,  and  determined  in  our  own  minds  that  we 
would  not  turn  back,  we  still  crawled  on,  conscious  that 
we  must  advance  till  we  found  water,  or  drop  by  the  way. 

The  main  body  skirted  a  gentle  declivity,  while  parties 
were  despatched  to  the  right  and  left  to  search  in  every 
hollow;  and  we  then  had  another  climb.  Night  was 
falling  as  we  reached  the  edge  of  a  steep  and  bare 
descent,  and  discovered  about  a  mile  to  the  westward  the 
windings  of  a  great  river.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  which 
we  stood  we  observed  an  extensive  valley  covered  with 
grass,  intersected  by  irregular  lines  of  darker  vegetation 
that  hinted  at  the  passage  of  several  brooklets. 

"  We  will  stop  here  !  "  the  men  exclaimed  as  with  one 
voice ;  nor  did  we  proffer  a  word  in  opposition  to  the 
general  will.  Besides  that  it  would  have  been  useless,  we 
felt  ourselves  that  we  could  no  further  go.  It  was  then 
seven  in  the  evening. 


3 '1MAIS  -t 
CORACIAS    ESPATULATA. 


"3 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Opinion  of  the  authors  upon  laconism  in  the  description  of  toil  and 
suffering — The  night  of  the  27th  May — Apprehensions — Night 
phantoms — An  unexpected  discovery — The  women  of  the  caravan 
— A  marriage — Famine  and  plenty  next-door  neighbours — Having 
satisfied  the  body  we  seek  distraction  of  mind  —  A  wine-party — 
Quizengamo,  an  important  quilolo,  visits  the  encampment — Two 
pages  from  the  diary — The  guides  urge  us  to  repair  to  the  Court 
of  the  Quianvo — Our  own  resolve — The  Cuango  and  capricious 
sinuosities  of  its  course — Frightful  effects  of  dysentery — Putrid 
fermentation  and  the  failure  of  food — A  dance  of  the  Ma-yacca — 
Abandoned  in  the  forest — Fever,  ulcers,  and  dysentery — Flight  of 
the  guide — The  desert — Fragment  of  the  diary — Baffled — Return 
u      —The  Cugho. 

To  the  man  who  has  never  had  the  misfortune  to  pass 
entire  days  of  hnnger  and  thirst,  with  the  temperature  at 
86°  of  Fahrenheit ;  who  has  never  experienced  the  dire 
sensations  of  intense  fever,  aggravated  by  the  anguish  of 
dysentery,  the  terrible  itching  caused  by  parasites,  and 
which  the  flannel  vest  renders  almost  unbearable ;  to  the 
man  again  who  never  felt  the  excruciating  suffering 
caused  by  scorbutic  wounds  in  the  legs  and  feet,  making 
the  pressure  of  the  boot  a  martyrdom ;  our  dwelling  to 
such  length  upon  these  subjects  may  appear  perhaps  both 
troublesome  and  undignified.  We  consider,  however, 
that  such  a  judgment  is  not  a  fair  one,  inasmuch  as  no 
traveller  is  capable  on  his  return  to  Europe  and  in  the 
quiet  repose  of  his  own  study,  to  set  down  faithfully,  after 
the  lapse  of  months,  what  he  suffered  in  those   inhos- 

VOL.    II.  I 


ii4  West  and  Central  Africa. 

pitablo  regions,  or  give  a  just  measure  of  the  physical  and 
moral  tribulations  which  at  the  time  oppressed  his 
miserable  existence.  He  may  retain  a  faint  recollection 
of  them,  but  hesitating  between  his  diary  and  his  wish  to 
say  the  exact  truth,  he  is  likely  to  suppress  a  great  deal 
that  we  consider  it  proper  to  lay  before  the  world  for  the 
behoof  of  future  explorers. 

Stanley,  that  active  and  indefatigable  genius,  was  con- 
scious of  this  truth  when  in  the  Zinga  on  the  10th  of 
June,  1877,  he  wrote  :— 

"  The  details  of  the  tortures  I  suffered  cannot  be 
described,  but  they  are  indelibly  engraved  in  the  depths 
of  a  heart  which  feels  all  the  bitterness  of  the  pains  which 
wrung  it." 

It  must  have  been  a  heavy  load  of  suffering  that  in- 
duced a  man,  usually  so  laconic,  to  pen  those  lines ;  they 
owed  their  origin  to  countless  struggles,  to  the  pangs  of 
hunger  and  thirst,  to  consuming  fever  and  the  loss  of 
faithful  companions ;  yet  many  readers  probably  passed 
over  that  simple  paragraph  without  a  second  thought.  In 
justice  to  him  and  others  we  intend  to  be  less  brief,  and 
in  the  present  chapter  to  give  a  faithful  record  of  our 
vicissitudes  and  reflections. 

It  was  on  the  27th  of  May  that  the  caravan,  whereof 
we  were  the  chiefs,  found  itself  on  the  left  bank  of  a  cer- 
tain river,  without  shelter,  pinched  by  hunger,  fall  of 
bodily  ailments,  seated  on  a  bare  mount,  in  a  narrow 
circle,  surrounding  a  fire  as  half  starved  as  ourselves. 

The  thought  of  the  morrow  was  in  the  minds  of  all. 
Ten  times  that  day  had  we  lost  ourselves  in  our  wander- 
ings, and  we  knew  too  well  that  the  continuance  of  such  a 
course  must,  in  the  end,  be  fatal  to  some,  if  not  to  all.  As 
we  scanned  the  horizon  we  put  the  question  to  ourselves, 
"  How  long  can  this  continue  ?  " 


The  Night  of  the  2  yth  May.  1 1 5 

In  the  far  distance  we  discovered,  aided  by  the  pale 
light  of  the  moon,  certain  high  land,  on  the  summit  of 
which  we  perceived  fires.  Could  they  be  senzalas,  or  were 
they  the  fires  of  wanderers  like  ourselves  ?  none  could 
say ;  this,  however,  was  certain,  that  not  a  sound  came  to 
our  ears  indicative  of  human  beings.  The  whole  country 
lay  in  profound  repose,  only  interrupted  in  the  depth  of 
night  by  a  troop  of  wolves  hovering  and  howling  about 
us.  Other  black,  shadowy  forms,  the  more  fearful  from 
being  undefined,  were  creeping  stealthily  in  the  valley 
below,  so  that  our  guns,  upon  the  cock,  were  kept  con- 
stantly pointed  in  that  direction. 

A  slow  fever  was  undermining  our  remaining  strength, 
and  a  terrible  insomnia  had  taken  possession  of  us  both. 
Our  heated  imagination  passed  in  review  a  multitude  of 
scenes,  of  thoughts,  of  disjointed  ideas,  which  ebbed  and 
flowed  in  an  uninterrupted  stream.  On  inquiring  of  each 
other,  we  found  the  experience  was  mutual,  so  drawing 
our  coats,  which  were  stiffened  by  the  cold  mist  of  night, 
closer  around  us  we  tried  to  sleep.  A  vain  endeavour 
truly ;  and  at  three  quarters  past  four  in  the  morning, 
we  were  witnesses,  against  our  will,  to  day  breaking  in 
the  east. 

So  soon  as  the  light  permitted,  a  careful  survey  was 
made  of  the  surroundings,  the  result  being,  that  we  were 
near  the  bank  of  the  river  Cuango,  posted  on  an  abrupt 
mount  which  bordered  it  on  the  western  side ;  that  the 
stream  ran,  in  a  broad  sheet,  through  banks  clothed  with 
dark  green  foliage,  forming  an  edging  to  the  tall  wavy 
grass  ;  that  on  the  heights  beyond  the  further  bank  white 
patches  were  discernible  which  by  the  glass  appeared  to 
be  human  dwellings ;  that  northwards,  the  land  was 
broken  and  uneven  to  the  last  degree,  and  that  behind  the 
hills  in  that  direction  white  smoke  was  rising  into  the  air. 

1  2 


1 1 6  #   West  and  Central  Africa. 

As  the  watch  marked  the  hour  of  five,  we  organized  a 
party  to  go  to  the  river  to  procure  water,  and  de- 
spatched another  up  the  stream  to  make  a  reconnois- 
sance,  whilst  we  ourselves  to  occupy  the  time  till  their 
return  endeavoured  to  take  the  bearings  of  the  sur- 
rounding country. 

We  had  not,  however,  been  long  engaged  at  the  work 
before  we  saw  two  of  the  party  rush  back  again  through 
the  grass  and  make  their  way  up  the  ascent  uttering  loud 
cries.  They  were  mere  lads,  though  one  of  them,  Lianda, 
was  quick-witted  and  expert,  who  informed  us  in  a 
breathless  state  that  they  had,  immediately  after  setting 
out,  discovered  an  immense  encampment  inhabited  by 
fishermen,  where  the  abundance  of  good  things  was  such 
that,  to  use  the  young  fellow's  own  expression  :  "  There 
Were  so  many  calabashes  of  maluvo  that  all  of  us  put 
together  would  not  be  so  many." 

The  effect  of  this  announcement  may  readily  be  con- 
ceived, and  we  lost  no  time,  after  recovering  from  our 
surprise,  in  setting  out  for  the  favoured  spot. 

In  a  tortuous  line  we  descended  the  rugged  slope, 
placing  the  women  of  the  caravan  in  front,  who,  with 
their  infants  at  their  backs,  intoned,  as  they  went,  a 
mournful  song,  meant  by  its  simple  words  to  be  one  of 
thankfulness.  All  honour  to  the  sex  and  all  honour  to 
these  not  unworthy  members  of  it !  On  fortunate  days 
they  were  the  first  at  work,  and  by  their  handiness  and 
cheerfulness  they  gave  to  the  camp  what  life  and  gaiety 
it  could  ever  boast  of;  and  on  the  sad  and  trying  ones, 
the  fewest  complaints  came  from  them,  whilst  their 
patience  and  endurance  were  beyond  all  praise.  How 
often,  when  fighting  with  a  host  of  obstacles,  has  not 
the  sight  of  them,  plodding  on  in  silence,  encouraged 
us  as  men  to  even  greater  efforts ;  and  how  often  too 


The  Women  of  the  Expedition.  1 1 7 

did  we  not  behold  a  like  effect  bein &  wrought  anion 9;  their 
untutored  companions,  and  a  respect  engendered  that  at 
the  outset  was  unknown  ! 

We  did  our  very  best  to  foster  this  respect  by  the 
rigorous  rules  we  laid  down  where  the  sex  was  concerned. 
All  quarrels  and  domestic  difficulties  were  referred  to  us 
for  solution,  and  woe  betide  the  husband  who  dared  to  lay 
a  finger  upon  his  wife  or  steal  a  cloth  from  her  to  barter 
it  away  !     Scores  of  times  Capulca  discovered  this  to  his 


LEMBA,    MUTU  S   WIFE. 

cost,  for  though  a  gallant  gay  Lothario  among  strange 
ladies  he  was  a  very  Othello  to  his  own  Desdemona. 
But  for  every  blow  he  administered  to  her  back,  ho 
got  a  dozen  on  his  own,  most  religiously  paid,  for  in 
matters  of  this  kind  we  made  it  a  point  of  honour 
never  to  be  in  his  debt. 

The  garments  they  wore  were  delivered  to  them  at 
set  times  ;  we  treated  both  them  and  their  children  when 


1 1 8  West  and  Central  Africa. 

sick,  and  if,  by  any  sad  chance,  one  of  them  became  a 
widow,  we  were  careful  at  once  to  keep  her  apart  till  we 
could  find  her  a  second  husband. 

While  on  this  point  we  may  mention  that  when  in  the 
Quioco  poor  Filippe  died,  Lemba,  his  wife,  was  separated 
in  this  manner,  and  on  the  following  day,  ranging  in  a 
line  those  unmarried  men  who  cared  to  enter  the  lists, 
we  made  her  come  to  the  front  with  ourselves  that  she 
might  make  her  choice.  It  was  curious  to  observe  the 
eagerness  with  which  the  candidates  followed  her  eyes ; 
for  it  is  no  light  thing  to  be  the  object  on  which  a 
woman's  choice  shall  fall  amid  a  bevy  of  competitors  ! 
At  the  outset  they  were  all  on  the  broad  grin,  for  they 
looked  upon  the  affair  as  a  capital  joke,  but  on  observing 
the  serious  air  with  which  we  presided  at  the  ceremonial 
they  composed  their  countenances  and  anxiously  awaited 
the  young  widow's  decision.  And  when  it  came  and  her 
choice  was  really  made,  the  only  countenance  that  dis- 
played hilarity  was  that  of  the  chosen  youth  who  bore 
the  name  of  Mutu.  Summoning  him  from  the  group, 
we  inquired  : — 

"  Does  this  woman  please  you  ?  " 

To  which  he  answered,  "  She  does." 

"  Would  you  like  to  live  with  her  ?  " 

"  I  should." 

"Be  it  so  :  now  listen.  Henceforth  she  shall  be  your 
companion  and  your  wife ;  you  will  live  with  her  and 
have  your  rations  apart ;  you  will  be  responsible  for 
her  acts,  and  if  you  do  not  immediately  repair  her  trans- 
gressions, you  will  be  punished;  .remember,  you  must 
not  lay  a  finger  upon  her,  but  live  in  peace."  And  thus 
were  married  Mutu  and  Lemba ! 

To  resume  our  narrative;  the  sun  shone  full  upon 
our  faces,  as  though  to  congratulate  us  on  our  good  for- 


Famine  and  Plenty.  1 1 9 

tune,  and  obliquely  illuminating  the  landscape,  still  in 
part  concealed  by  morning  mist,  gave  it  an  aspect  of 
juvenile  beauty  and  a  sense  of  serenity  that  were  consol- 
ing to  the  awakening  spirits. 

Breaking  away  from  the  grass,  we  crossed  the  little 
thickets  that  were  scattered  in  every  direction  over  the 
plain,  and  at  length  came  out  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  hamlet. 

It  consisted  of  half  a  dozen  huts  or  sheds  perfectly 
well  built ;  a  palisade,  formed  by  a  species  of  bamboo 
split  in  half,  formed  the  enclosure  within  which,  they 
nestled,  while  various  fireplaces  served  for  the  cooking  of 
fish.  Our  first  glance  also  showed  us  bindas  of  palm 
wine,  bundles  of  manioc  and  slices  of  meat  hanging 
within  the  dwellings,  and  several  persons  moving  about. 
On  the  right  there  was  a  larger  number  busy  in  assisting 
at  or  witnessing  some  occupation,  which  we  shortly  dis- 
covered to  be  the  dismemberment  of  an  enormous 
buffalo,  lying  on  the  ground,  that  had  been  killed  the  day 
before. 

At  our  unexpected  arrival,  all  occupations,  both  in- 
doors and  out,  were  immediately  suspended,  and  the 
natives,  half  in  alarm,  half  in  curiosity,  regarded  us, 
open-mouthed;  while  we,  staring  with  equal  interest, 
but  with  no  sort  of  fear  upon  the  colossal  ruminant, 
exclaimed, — 

"  We  have  been  near  starving  in  the  midst  of  plenty  !  " 

Five  minutes  after  this  moving  spectacle  met  our  eyes, 
we  were  squatting  down  with  our  knees  almost  on  a 
level  with  our  chins,  in  a  little  circle,  having  Jose  in  the 
middle,,  busily  engaged  in  making  purchases  the  while  he 
replied  to  our  eager  interrogations. 

"  Who  are  these  people  ?  " 

"Ma-yacca." 


1 20  West  and  Central  Africa. 

"  Who  governs  them  ?  " 

"  The  Quianvo  or  Muene  Puto  Cassongo." 

"  Where  does  he  live  ?  " 

"  Over  there  !  "  pointing  northwards. 

"  Is  he  powerful  ?  " 

"  He  is  indeed." 

These  scraps  of  information,  with  others  obtained  in 
the  same  way,  we  entered  in  our  diary,  interrupting  that 
occupation  from  time  to  time  to  give  instructions  about 
the  longed-for  meal  to  Capulca,  who,  meanwhile,  having 
recovered  his  usual  loquacity  never  had  his  mouth  shut 
for  a  moment. 

Two  delightful  hours  did  we  spend  over  his  labours, 
taking  whatever  was  ready,  and  eagerly  waiting  for 
more,  washing  the  whole  down  with  copious  draughts  of 
maluvo ;  until  having  eaten  and  drunk  to  repletion  we 
took  a  long  and  welcome  siesta. 

Having  ordered  the  construction  of  the  encampment 
and  fed  and  rested  the  body,  we  sought  a  little  distrac- 
tion for  the  mind,  so  as  to  dissipate  somewhat  the  dark 
clouds  which  still  hung  over  it,  and  with  this'  view  we 
took  a  stroll  to  a  neighbouring  village. 

On  our  penetrating  into  the  neighbouring  wood,  we 
startled  a  couple  of  young  women,  who,  in  the  costume 
of  Mother  Eve  before  the  fall,  fled  at  our  approach, 
leaving  their  baskets  behind  them.  Their  head-dresses 
amused  us  mightily,  beiug  terminated  at  top  with  two 
high  peaks,  and  as  they  first  started  from  the  grass  we 
could  not  help  likening  them  (meaning  no  disrespect)  to 
a  couple  of  she-asses. 

Having  gratified  our  curiosity  by  a  peep  into  the 
fugitives'  baskets,  we  pursued  our  way,  when  Master 
Jose  suddenly  stopped,  pointed  up  to  some  fruit  hanging 
from  a  tree,  and    clapping   his  hands  to.  his    abdomen 


A  Wine  Party. 


12  1 


went  through  the  performance  of  a  person  suffering  from 
colic. 

"  There  it  is  !  "  he  exclaimed ;  "  don't  you  remember 
it?" 

After  a  cursory  examination  we  had  no  difficulty  in 
recognizing  the  fruit,  for  it  was  no  other  than  the 
medlars  of  painful  memory  that  had  punished  us  so 
severely  in  the  Bondos  ! 

Continuing  our  path,  after  this  meeting  with  a  former 


THE    TWO    FUGITIVES. 


acquaintance,  puffing  and  blowing  beneath  a  sun  hot 
enough  to  fry  eggs,  we  at  length  reached  the  senzala, 
constructed  on  a  piece  of  cleared  ground. 

We  arrived  at  a  time  of  high  festival,  at  least  we  found 
the  principal  inhabitants  engaged  in  a  drinking-bout^ 
seated  around  enormous  ganzas  or  calabashes.  At  sight 
of  us,  however,  they  started  up  in  half  alarm,  a  feeling 
which  we  did  our  best  to  allay  by  inquiring  in  a  friendly 
manner  what  they  had  in  the  binclas. 


122  West  and  Central  Africa. 

"  Maluvo,  N'gana"  (wine,  senhor),  was  the  reply. 

And  as  maluvo  is  not  by  any  means  to  be  treated  with 
contempt,  we  determined  to  do  as  the  rest  did,  and  sat 
down  to  have  a  share.  Seeing  a  whispering  but  warm 
discussion  going  on  between  some  of  the  party  we  were 
curious  to  learn  the  cause,  which  we  managed  to  gather 
by  the  aid  of  our  guide. 

It  appeared  that  one  of  the  elders  of  the  group  had 
been  entertaining  his  hearers  with  wonderful  stories 
about  the  whites,  and  they  were  discussing  his  last  asser- 
tion that  "  we  were  amphibious ;  could  live  just  as  well 
in  the  water  as  on  dry  land ;  and  that  he  once  had  a 
friend  who  had  lived  near  the  (  great  water '  and  used 
to  see  the  whites  swim  over  it  from  their  own  country." 

As  it  would  have  been  difficult  to  undeceive  them,  we 
left  the  care  of  doing  so  to  our  attendants,  and  turning 
the  conversation  into  another  channel  procured  all  the 
information  we  could  gather  concerning  the  country  in 
which  we  were  then  sojourning,  its  abundance  of  food 
products  and  other  important  particulars. 

Whilst  so  engaged  a  messenger  arrived  in  hot  haste 
from  our  quilombo  with  the  news  that  an  important 
Sova  had  just  arrived  there  for  the  purpose  of  paying  a 
visit  to  the  whites.  Hastily,  therefore,  concluding  our 
business  with  our  new  acquaintance  by  the  barter  of 
some  yards  of  cloth  and  some  beads  for  inhame, 
eggs,  and  fowls,  we  started  off  to  receive  our  new 
visitor. 

On  our  return  to  camp  we  found  our  companions 
standing  in  attitudes  of  profound  respect  about  a  group 
of  natives,  in  the  centre  of  whom  was  the  great  chief. 
"We  have  no  intention  to  inflict  upon  our  readers  another 
description  of  a  reception  which  in  no  important  particu- 
lar differed  from  a  score  that  had  preceded  it ;  but  will 


Extracts  from  the  Diary.  123 

merely  mention  that  our  visitor  was  one  of  the  first 
quilolos  of  the  Quianvo,  called  Quizengamo,  residing  on 
the  other  bank  of  the  river  near  the  Mussala  brook  ;  that 
he  was  enveloped  in  a  species  of  mabella  mat,  had  no 
very  attractive  physiognomy,  and  wore  his  hair  in  what 
appeared  to  us  a  ridiculous  fashion  for  a  man,  namely 
drawn  up  from  the  back  and  sides  on  to  the  top  of  the 
head  and  there  secured. 

We  transcribe  from  the  pages  of  our  diary  the  results 
of  our  interview,  which  lasted  three  hours  and  a  half, 
together  with  some  further  particulars  we  gleaned  from 
other  sources  : 

Portuguese-African  Expedition. 
May  28th,  1879.  Page  603 

Left  Bank  of  the  River  Cuango. 

Aneroid  2376  ft.  (not  cord-)  Temperature  000°. 

Lat.  7°  20'  57"  per.  O  mer.  =  67,75. 
Azimuth  angles  (station  in  encampment). 
2°  E.  (Senz.  0'  5"— Cuango  0'  8"). 
52°  5'  (lofty  mount  a  6'0"  ?). 
91°  0'  (mount  b  1'  0"). 
107°  0'  (mount  c  2'  1"). 
127°  5'  (mount  d  2'  1"). 
165°  0'  (azimuth  rect.  of  encampment). 
241°  0'  (  mount  e  1'  6"). 
River— up,  mean  109°  0' ;  down  0° 

First  quilolo  of  the  Quianvo  paid  us  a  visit  this  day. 

******** 

The  interpreters  assured  us  that  the  Ma-yacca  were,  for  the  greater 
part,  slaves  of  the  Lunda  established  there. 

The  history  of  their  origin  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Ma-quioco,  with 
this  difference,  that  instead  of  descending  from  one  woman,  they  appear 
to  have  descended  from  two.  These  histories  are  of  course  more  or 
less  fabulous,  and  must  be  received  with  the  utmost  caution. 

The  aspect  of  the  Ma-yacca  is  not  so  distinct  as  that  of  the  peoples 
further  south.  Mainly  of  a  pacific  disposition,  as  far  at  least  as  could 
be  judged  from  those  with  whom  we  came  into  contact,  they  are  ex- 
tremely savage  and  suspicious.  Their  head-dresses  are  quaint  and 
very  diversified,  some  arranging  the  hair  so  as  to  give  it  the  appearance 
of  a  hat  or  cap,  others  braiding  it  in  long  tresses,  which  they  wind  round 
the  head  ;  some  again  drawing  it  all  from  the  nape  of  the   neck  on  to 


1 24  West  and  Central  Africa. 

the  top  of  the  head,  but  no  one  fashion  so  predominating  as  to  give  it  a" 
preponderance  over  the  others. 

They  go  nearly  naked  or  scantily  clothed  in  mabella,  owing  to  the 
scarcity  of  any  manufactured  cotton.  Their  dwellings,  which  are  geo- 
metrically well  built  of  marianga  interlaced  with  grass,  have  from  a 
distance,  a  picturesque  appearance. 

They  give  but  little  attention  to  agriculture,  but  a  great  deal  to 
fishing,  and  are  poor  breeders  of  cattle  or  sheep.  One  good  reason  for 
the  latter  deficiency  may  be  found  in  the  circumstance  that  the  Ma-yacca 
as  we  were  informed  by  Quizengamo  are  not  permitted  to  breed  cattle 
at  all,  and  only  on  rare  occasions  goats  and  sheep.  That  the  sovereign 
retains  such  breeding  as  a  prerogative  of  his  own,  and  that  the  man 
who  dared  to  infringe  such  a  law  would  infallibly  lose  his  head,  for 
with  the  system  of  fetichism  so  prevalent,  his  act  would  of  a  certainty 
be  discovered  and  denounced.  Our  informant  assured  us  we  should 
find  proofs  of  this  in  the  circumstance  that  our  eyes  would  not  light 
upon  a  single  ox  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Cuango.  This  extraordinary 
monopoly,  the  cause  of  which  we  vainly  endeavoured  to  fathom,  has 
not  been  satisfactorily  explained. 

The  men  devote  a  good  deal  of  attention  to  the  chase,  hunting 
lialancas,  many  of  which  are  of  enormous  size,  and  whose  horns  they 
showed  us,  other  antelopes  and  gazelles,  all  of  which  are  very  abundant 
in  this  part  of  the  country. 

The  territory  on  both  banks  of  the  river  Cuango  is  subdivided  into 
many  districts  bearing  special  names  which  are  apt  to  puzzle  the 
traveller. 

On  the  west,  for  instance,  the  lands  of  Quiteca-N'bungo,  Macume- 
N'jimbo,  and  Futa,  already  spoken  of,  are  inhabited  by  the  Ma-sosso, 
who  bestow  various  names  upon  them,  according  to  the  special  district ; 
and  this  is  also  the  case  with  the  territory  of  Yacca  on  the  east. 

The  supreme  chief  of  the  Ma-yacca  is  the  Mequianvo,  Quianvo,  or 
Muene  Puto  Cassongo.  His  residence  is  under  parallel  6°  30',  near  a 
rivulet  called  N'ganga,  and  about  four  hours' journey  from  the  Cuango, 
where  he  has  a  port. 

The  stories  told  us  on  the  spot  respecting  the  quilolos  were  so  diverse 
and  contradictory,  that  we  considered  them  doubtful  after  a  careful 
process  of  sifting.  Some  asserted  that  the  Quianvo  was  more  powerful 
than  the  Muata  of  the  Luuda,  inasmuch  as  on  the  death  of  the  Yanvo 
the  former  appointed  his  successor.  Others  not  only  denied  this,  but 
affirmed  that  the  former  was  but  a  vassal  of  the  Yanvo.  The  interpre- 
ters on  the  other  hand  said  that  it  was  all  false  alike,  inasmuch  as  the 
potentates  did  not  even  know  each  other.  This  last  assertion  we  consi- 
dered was  going  too  far,  though  we  could  not  learn  that  they  had  evermet. 


Extracts  from  the  Diary 


125 


The  Quiauvo  is  a  man  of  medhini  stature,  strongly  built.  On  his 
days  of  reception,  he  makes  his  appearance  enveloped  in  a  cloth,  his 
head  adorned  with  a  broad  fillet  embroidered  with  beads,  and  fastened 
behind,  on  the  upper  edge  of  which  are  stitched  several  red  parrot's 
feathers.     His  wrists  and  arms  are  adorned  with  bangles. 

He  imbibes  large  quantities  of  maluvo,  and  feeds  on  small  game, 
such  as  gazelles,  &c. 

He  keeps  up  commercial  relations  with  the  coast  (Ambriz)  by  a  direct 
path,  a  prolongation  of  the  river,  by  the  aid  of  the  Ma-sosso,  who  when 
they  come  in  search  of  india-rubber  and  ivory  cross  his  territory  on 
their  way  to  the  Muata  Compana  and  Muene  Congo  Tubiuge. 


c/^<? 


YACCA   HEAD-DRESSES. 


This  latter  Sova  appears  to  be  an  important  personage.  He  has  his 
residence  on  the  banks  of  the  Muluia  and  has  a  great  river  as  a  frontier, 
said  to  be  called  Baccari.  His  states  border  on  the  vast  region  occupied 
by  the  Ba-cundi,  or  Ma-cundi,  ferocious  cannibals,  who  occupy,  as  we 
were  informed,  the  north-eastern  district,  and  whom  they  invariably 
spoke  of  with  a  shudder. 

They  possess,  finally,  a  large  river,  like  the  Cu-ango,  which  flows  into 
the  sea. 

As  we  were  the  first  whites  who  had  ever  appeared  in  the  dominions 
of  the  Muene  Puto  Cassongo,  Quizengamo  was  very  anxious  that  we 
should  go  and  pay  our  court  to  him. 

When  he  had  left,  a  native  of  Sosso  was  presented  to  us,  and  we 
drew  from  him  a  few  more  particulars  to  add  to  our  previous  notes. 


126  West  and  Central  Africa. 

This  man  told  us  that  he  knew  the  Congo-Zaire,  that  he  lived  on 
the  road  to  San  Salvador,  at  N'cusso,  a  place  at  no  great  distance  from 
the  villages  of  the  Mambo  Assamba  and  Malungo  Ateca.  He  finally 
offered  to  act  as  our  guide. 

In  the  chain  of  mountains  of  the  Zombo  lie  the  sources  of  the  Lu- 
quiche,  the  last  affluent  of  the  Cuango,  on  the  left  bank.  At  two  days' 
journey  up  the  stream  from  its  mouth,  numerous  rocks  obstruct  the  pas- 
sage of  the  river  at  a  point  called  Quicunji,  and  still  further  up  is  the 
embouchure  of  the  Quilo  Quiasosso.  He  maintained  that  there  was 
no  possible  road  along  the  Cuango,  it  being  all  a  desert,  and  he  asserted 
that  the  said  river  " mona-calunga"  that  is  to  say,  flowed  into  the 
sea. 

He  also  spoke  of  a  meeting  of  the  waters  of  the  Cu-engo  and  the 
Cuango,  and  further  on  of  those  of  the  Cassai  and  other  rivers  of  which 
he  spoke  in  accents  almost  of  horror,  saying  that  they  were  enormous 
and  constantly  overflowing. 

He  recounted  that  two  years  before,  he  was  passing  through  that 
very  district,  at  the  massango  or  point  of  confluence,  when  he  saw  a 
mun-delle  (white  man)  in  an  odto-id-puto  or  European  canoe.  This,  no 
doubt,  was  Stanley. 

He  certified  to  the  existence  of  the  great  lake,  and  of  the  famous 
dwarfs  ;  and  concluded  by  stating  that  it  would  take  six  months  to  reach 
the  meeting  of  the  waters  ! 

The  foregoing  having  been  entered  at  page  603  and 
following  ones  of  the  diary,  we  closed  the  book,  very 
tired  with  the  labour  of  gathering  and  recording  the 
notes,  so  as  we  were  by  that  time  dripping  with  per- 
spiration, we  went  and  sat  in  our  shirt- sleeves  under  a 
rude  porch  we  had  constructed  to  our  hut,  and  with 
a  calabash  of  maluvo  between  us,  were  soon  at  our  old 
work,  weaving  plans. 

In  the  opinion  of  the  natives  it  was  a  matter  of  neces- 
sity that  we  should  cross  the  river  and  repair  to  the 
residence  of  the  Quianvo,  by  the  only  known  track,  and 
along  which  we  could  alone  obtain  means  of  subsistence ; 
but  as  this  was  the  old  story,  we  did  not  seem  at  all 
inclined  to  seek  that  monarch's  presence.  We  considered 
that  our  means,  in  the  shape  of  goods,  were  already  at 


The  Dawn  of  Day.  127 

quite  low  enough  an  ebb  without  running  the  risk  of 
reducing;'  them  still  further. 

"  What  is  the  use  ?  "  ran  the  current  of  our  remarks 
between  ourselves.  "  It  will  be  only  rousing  up  another 
thief.  And  who  knows  whether  he  may  not  take  it  into 
his  head  to  seize  and  strip  us  altogether  ?  In  case  too 
of  the  necessity  of  beating  a  hasty  retreat,  how  could 
we  cross  the  river,  without  canoes,  and  pursue  our 
journey  westward  ?  " 

These  considerations  had  such  weight  with  us,  and 
appeared  to  be  dictated  by  such  plain  common  sense, 
that  we  determined  in  our  high  intelligence  to  go  our  own 
course,  that  is  to  say,  continue  along  the  bank  of  the 
river  under  the  guidance  of  our  Sosso  man. 

"  Our  aim,"  we  argued,  "is  to  study  the  Quango  and 
not  to  visit  rulers.  If  we  clo  so,  we  shall  have  to  set 
against  a  problematical  good  and  the  gratification  of  our 
curiosity,  a  certain  delay,  and  a  diminution  of  our  sub- 
stance ;  whilst  the  state  of  our  health  is  not  just  now  of 
that  robust  kind  that  we  can  afford  to  take  any  liberties 
with  it." 

Thus  resolved,  we  spent  the  rest  of  the  afternoon  in 
laying  in  stores  and  had  a  good,  sound  night's  rest. 

On  the  29th  of  May,  at  cock-crow,  everything  was 
ready  in  the  quilombo.  Day  was  ushered  in  by  one  of 
those  delicious  mornings  of  which  our  poets  generally 
can  have  the  very  faintest  notion,  seeing  their  little  or 
no  inclination  to  undertake  a  journey  to  the  great 
continent. 

The  dense  veil  of  vapour,  as  it  gradually  thinned  and 
dissipated  under  the  gentlest  of  south-east  breezes,  the 
herald  of  approaching  day,  laden  with  delicious  per- 
fumes, gave  to  view  the  scattered  mounts,  some  grey 
and  craggy,  others  covered  with  leafy  vegetation,  and  as 


128  West  and  Central  Africa. 

the  first  rays  of  the  sun  began  to  tinge  their  summits,  the 
effects  of  colour,  light,  and  shade  were  simply  magical. 

The  hills,  obscure  till  then,  became  suddenly  clothed  in 
every  variety  of  green  ;  the  intermediate  plains  looked, 
with  the  half  dispersed  mist,  like  fairy  lakes,  and  the  dis- 
tant serras  seemed  to  reflect  the  deepening  azure  of  th£ 
skies, 

All  nature  smiled ;  the  earth,  the  firmament  assumed 
at  each  moment  an  increasing  loveliness;  the  former  from 
its  myriads  of  flowers,  the  latter  by  the  presence  of  the 
radiant  star  of  day. 

Flecks  of  gilded  cloud  gave  a  fresh  charm  to  the  pic- 
ture, and  whilst  the  eye  gratefully  embraced  these  ex- 
quisite creations  of  the  Supreme,  the  ear  drank  in  with  no 
less  delight  the  murmuring  sound  of  waters,  the  whisper 
of  the  breeze  among  the  leaves  and  grass,  and  the  hymns 
of  praise  of  thousands  of  awakening  birds. 

A  soothing  emotion  stole  over  our  hearts  as  we  gazed 
upon  the  spectacle,  so  frequently  renewed  yet  never 
tiring ;  and  the  arduous  labour  we  had  still  to  overcome 
ere  reaching  what  we  could  consider  our  ultimate  goal, 
appeared  easier  of  accomplishment  when  resumed  under 
such  auspices. 

We  did  not,  it  is  true,  foresee  the  terrible  privations 
that  were  yet  in  store  for  us,  and  with  which  we  were  to 
struggle  for  bare  existence ;  for  had  it  been  possible  to 
peep  but  a  little  way  into  the  future,  souls  far  stouter 
than  our  own  must  have  revolted,  and  refused  to  make 
this  final  plunge. 

Again  passing  by  Cha-cala,  the  senzala  we  had  visited 
with  Jose,  we  directed  our  march  to  west-north-west  on 
account  of  a  great  bend  in  the  Cuango,  and  were  followed 
for  some  distance  by  a  few  natives.  The  soil  on  which  we 
trod  was    firm    and  hard  but  would  evidently  be,  soft 


Decomposition  of  Provisions.  \  2  9 

enough,  in  the  rainy  season.  Here  and  there  we  passed 
a  thin  plantation  where  the  manioc  was  poor  and  scarcely 
reached  the  waist.  A  little  further  on  the  river,  being 
barred  by  a  high  rocky  bank,  again  resumed  its  northerly 
course,  and  the  caravan  was  compelled  to  climb  over  a 
steep  mount,  from  whose  summit  we  observed  the  wind- 
ings of  the  stream. 

At  11.30  a.m.  we  were  at  Mafungo,  whereby  means  of 
a  small  canoe  we  sounded  the  depth  of  the  river  and  dis- 
covered eight  feet  of  water.  Thence,  the  stream,  again 
turning  to  the  westward,  overflowed  its  banks,  while 
various  little  sandy  aits,  more  than  one  adorned  with  a 
group  of  hippopotami,  appeared  in  the  centre  of  the  river 
bed. 

Another  lofty  mount  barred  the  way,  which  it  was 
necessary  for  us  to  scale,  but  as  it  was  not  possible  to  do 
so  just  then  we  camped  at  a  senzala  called  Lobenda,  re- 
serving the  ascent  till  next  day.  The  heat  was  suffocating; 
and  the  temperature  stood  at  88°  Fahr.,  without  the 
slightest  breeze  to  cool  our  tired  limbs.  Dysentery  among 
other  ailments  began  about  this  time  to  appear,  with 
alarming  symptoms,  and  a  permanent  fever  was  burning 
our  very  entrails. 

After  a  little  excursion  to  the  river,  where  we  saw  a 
good  many  hippopotami,  and  making  the  necessary  sur- 
veys, we  returned  to  the  encampment,  where  another 
annoyance  awaited  us.  The  evening  before  we  had 
purchased  a  good  number  of  fresh  bagres,  which  we 
endeavoured  to  pickle  with  a  little  maluvo  vinegar,  after 
frying  them  in  palm  oil,  in  the  hope  of  preserving  them 
for  some  days.  What  then  was  our  disgust  when 
Capulca  opened  the  basket  in  which  they  were  kept  and 
showed  them  to  us  literallv  covered  with  maggots  !     In 

.j  (Do 

twenty-four  hours  the  whole  had  become  decomposed ; 
vol.  n.  K 


1 30  West  and  Central  Africa. 

and  not  the  fish  only,  but  the  buffalo  beef  which  had  been 
distributed  among  the  men,  so  that  we  were  compelled  to 
throw  it  all  away  !  We  were  thus  deprived  of  food,  and 
it  was  only  with  difficulty  that  we  could  prevail  upon  the 
natives  to  sell  us  a  lean  fowl  to  add  to  another,  equally 
meagre,  in  our  possession. 

As  evening  fell,  while  looking  at  the  natives   dancing 


DANCES    OP    THE    MA-YACCA. 


in  the  open,  one  of  us  became  disabled  by  fever,  and  the 
other  was  not  long  in  following  suit.  We  had,  therefore, 
to  retire  when  the  fun  was  at  its  loudest ;  and  as  the 
stomach  refused  to  retain  the  lean  fowl  after  we  had  it 
cooked,  we  got  no  dinner. 

Meanwhile,  the  dancing  and  uproar  continued   a  long 
time  afterwards.     The  performers  had  the  most  ferocious 


Ma-yacca  Dances.  1 3  1 

appearance.  The  men  with  feathers  and  antelope  horns 
stuck  into  their  hair,  and  bunches  of  grass  about  their 
ankles  brandished  their  assagais  under  the  direction  of  a 
leader,  a  very  Hercules  of  a  fellow  with  a  rough  beard 
and  cannibal  aspect,  and  formed  a  semicircle  whereof 
the  other  half  was  composed  of  women. 

The  latter,  with  their  hair  tied  in  a  top  knot,  their 
bodies  bedaubed  with  vermilion  and  wearing  a  species  of 
short  kilt  made  of  straw,  kept  clapping  their  bauds  and 
twisting  their  bodies  into  grotesque  and  obscene  attitudes  ; 
when  the  one  in  the  front  row  came  forward  and  meet- 
ing the  man  opposite  her  went  through  a  performance 
of  which  the  least  said  the  better,  and  the  two  then  took 
up  their  places  in  the  centre  ;  they  were  followed  in  due 
course  by  another  couple,  and  so  on,  each  pair,  not  un- 
naturally, endeavouring  to  outvie  those  who  had  gone 
before,  in  singularity. 

The  noise  they  made  was  something  horrible  to  men 
troubled  like  ourselves.  To  the  beating  of  drums  and 
the  clapping  of  hands,  were  added  the  discordant  shrieks 
of  the  women  and  hoarse  cries  of  the  men,  and  ever  and 
anon  the  ears  were  startled  by  the  blast  of  a  long  horn 
which  some  strong-winded  performer  was  blowing  greatly 
to  Lis  own  satisfaction  and  presumably  to  that  of  the 
assembled  company. 

Meanwhile,  our  dysentery  would  not  stop,  and  next 
day  we  had  to  undergo  the  torture  of  a  forced  march, 
under  a  leaden  sky. 

Our  idea,  somewhat  modified,  was  to  keep  along  the 
Cuango  or  reach  the  port  of  the  Quianvo.  On  our  arrival 
there,  it  not  being  our  intention  to  visit  that  potentate, 
we  proposed  taking  a  westward  course  by  the  track 
leading  to  the  country  of  our  guide.  It  did  not  appear, 
however,  that  our  plan  was  to  the  latter's  taste,  for  when 

k  2 


132  West  and  Central  Africa. 

we  were  about  to  make  the  ascent  the  rascal  gave  us  the 
slip,  and  hid  himself  in  the  dense  mn-chito,  so  that  it  cost 
us  no  end  of  trouble  to  ferret  him  out  of  it.  Having, 
after  immense  fatigue,  got  to  the  top,  we  took  an  hour's 
rest,  while  gazing  upon  the  river  below,  where  our  glasses 
showed  the  hippopotami  sunning  themselves  on  the  little 
sandy  islands  that  were  scattered  over  the  stream. 

Resuming  our  journey  with  immense  difficulty,  for  the 
drain  upon  us  from  fever  and  dysentery  made  us  fear- 
fully weak,  we  observed  numerous  tracks  through  the 
grass  made  by  herds  of  buffaloes,  and  it .  behoved  us 
to  be  specially  careful  and  on  the  alert  to  avoid  being 
run  down  .by  the  ferocious  beasts.  Little  disposed  as 
we  were  to  make  the  effort,  we  felt  that  we  must,- ere  the 
day  was  out,  reach  the  river  Macolo,  on  whose  bank 
there  was  a  small  senzala,  the  only  spot  where  there  was 
a  chance  of  obtaining  provisions. 

We  reached  that  place  at  four  in  the  afternoon  in  a 
state  almost  as  impossible  to  conceive  as  it  is  to  describe. 
Fever,  ulcers,  dysentery,  all  were  trying  us  at  once,  and 
our  limbs  would  scarce  support  us  from  actual  fatigue. 
The  heat  too,  was  most  oppressive,  for  at  five  o'clock 
p.m.  ths  thermomster  marked  83°  Fahr,,  and  tli3  p3r- 
spiration  had  wetted  us  through.  Our  poor  dog  seemed 
to  suffer  as  much  as  ourselves,  and  stretched  out  at  her 
full  length,  her  tongue  hanging  from  her  mouth,  she 
looked  a  picture  of  utter  fatigue  and  helplessness. 

A  troop  of  natives,  who  surrounded  us,  made  matters 
ten  times  worse  with  their  exactions  and  beo^inor  anc[ 
it  was  with  infinite  difficulty  with  such  interruptions 
that  we  succeeded  in  purchasing  some  flour,  manioc  roots, 
beans,  a  couple  of  miserable  goats,  a  few  fowls,  and  a 
quantity  of  fish. 

Our  guide  now  again   gave  us  trouble.     He  insisted 


A  troublesome  Guide.  133 

upon  our  crossing  the  river  at  that  point,  and  proceeding 
to  the  court  of  the  Quianvo.  "  There  are  no  people  to 
the  north,"  he  argued,  "  the  road  lies  the  other  way,  no 
track  is  to  be  found  northwards  for  many  days." 

"  But  there  is  a  track,  so  let  us  go  to  it.  Is  it  not 
the  same  that  leads  to  your  country  ?  " 

"  Yes  ;  but  what  you  have  paid  me  is  too  little  ;  give 
me  another  piece,  otherwise  I  shall  turn  back." 

Measuring  him  fixedly  with  our  eyes,  jorocellosi  oculi, 
and  from  which,  judging  by  our  feelings,  we  are  sure 
that  no  particularly  friendly  rays  were  darting,  we  felt 
our  hands  convulsively  clutch  our  staff,  the  while  we  were 
sorely  tempted  to  give  the  fellow  a  good  drubbing; 
suppressing,  however,  the  temptation  under  a  mental 
promise  that  the  punishment  was  only  reserved,  we 
acceded  to  his  modest  demand,  and  on  the  4th  of  June, 
at  daybreak,  started  on  our  venture,  after  a  fresh  alter- 
cation with  the  fellow,  who  insisted  upon  receiving  his 
extra  piece  in  advance. 

Making  for  the  high  ground,  we  reached  the  top  in 
about  half  an  hour,  whence  we  had  an  extensive  prospect 
of  the  circumjacent  country.  For  many  miles  round 
the  aspect  of  the  territory  is  singularly  uniform.  The 
lofty  mounts  which  throw  out  spurs  in  various  directions 
are  all  of  them  bare  at  the  summit,  while  the  valleys  at 
their  feet  are  full  of  a  dense,  leafy  vegetation.  These 
eminences  are  so  extremely  numerous  that  they  impart 
an  extraordinarily  rugged  aspect  to  the  scene.  The  bed 
of  the  river  owing  to  this  cause  is  wonderfully  tortuous, 
in  the  distance  we  observed  the  broad  sheet  of  water 
which,  receiving  the  brilliant  rays  of  the  sun,  meandered 
through  the  plain  in  a  silver  streak,  its  capricious  curves 
running  at  one  time  north-north-west,  and  a  moment 
afterwards    to  the    south-east.     Further  on,    the  banks 


J34 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


seemed  steep  and  rocky,  mount  after  mount  rose  ab- 
ruptly from  its  margins,  and  confined  the  stream  within 
a  narrow  valley. 

To  the  east-north-east  the  needle  gave  us  successively 
the  culminating  points  of  azure  mountains  which  we  saw 
extending  in  a  line  from  north  to  south.  The  undulations 
of  the  ground,  on  our  side  of  the  river  running  right 
across  our  path,  made  our  march,  at  times,  so  slow  and 


AYOMAN    OF    THE    CONGO. 


painful  that  we  got  over  barely  a  mile  an  hour.  The 
sun,  too,  had  heated  the  rocky  ground  to  such  a  degree, 
that  our  men  could  not  press  it  with  their  feet  after 
eleven  o'clock  in  the  day. 

Our  guide  pointed  out  to  us  the  direction  of  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Quianvo,  which  we  marked  to  the  north- 
east. More  to  the  north  there  rose  into  the  air  a  lofty 
and  arid  mountain,  which  we  were  informed  was  the  point 
where  the   Cuilo   disembogued  into  the  Cuango  in  the 


A  feci  rfii I  Region .  135 

midst  of  rocks  and  stones.  The  sombre-looking  region 
to  the  north-west  was  the  country  of  the  Ba-congo. 

We  were  compelled  to  halt  until  the  great  heat  had 
somewhat  subsided.  At  the  bottom  of  a  ravine  we 
plunged  into  a  dark  wood  and  found,  as  we  hoped,  a  little 
water  in  the  low,  marshy  ground.  We  there  set  up  our 
camp,  but  had  not  done  so  more  than  about  ten  minutes 
when  we  heard  an  uproar  amongst  our  fellows,  oc- 
casioned by  the  desertion  of  our  guide  !  A  little  before, 
the  rascal  seemed  quite  satisfied  and  resolved  to  act 
faithfully  by  us,  and  then,  without  alleging  the  slightest 
reason,  he  shouldered  his  gun  and  was  off,  leaving  us  in 
a  position  that  can  only  be  faintly  conceived  ! 

It  is  useless  to  tire  the  reader  with  the  details  of 
our  misery  between  the  4th  and  11th  of  June,  the  day 
on  which  we  got  back  to  the  bank  of  the  Cugho  on  the 
north-west.  Suffice  it  that  the  narrative  would  be  a 
tissue  of  suffering  from  hunger,  thirst,  fever,  and  struggles 
experienced  in  a  region  whereof  the  tracing  on  the  map 
will  give  a  faint  idea. 

That  which,  however,  the  map  cannot  reproduce  is 
the  melancholy  aspect  of  that  vast  tract  of  uninhabited 
country,  shunned  by  man  for  more  than  one  reason, 
whereof  the  absolute  want  of  water  is  the  chief.  What 
frightful  solitudes  they  were !  What  sadness,  which 
sunk  into  the  soul,  weighed  upon  the  entire  territory  ! 
The  silence  of  the  tomb  reigned  supreme  upon  those 
rocks  and  hollows,  whose  gloomy  and  naked  aspect, 
made  more  terrible  by  the  blinding  light  of  the  equatorial 
sun,  seemed  to  bar  all  relief  to  the  many  ills  under  which 
we  were  sinking !  No  occasional  scraps  of  green,  no 
clouds  to  temper  the  intensity  of  the  sky,  offered  any 
relief  in  the  midst  of  that  awful  desert,  where  the  silence 
was  appalling,  the  immovability  of  every  blade  of  burnt 


136  West  and  Central  Africa. 

grass  was  insufferable,  where  the  heat  was  suffocating, 
and  where  the  valleys  but  echoed  to  the  groans  and 
laments  of  our  exhausted  crew  ! 

The  further  we  advanced  northwards,  the  more  were 
all  our  evils  aggravated.  The  solitude  became  if 
possible  more  solemn  and  more  awful.  It  might  have 
been  the  chosen  region  of  grim  death  himself,  but  that 
the  occasional  presence  of  a  wild  beast  showed  that 
some  of  nature's  creatures  at  least  paid  it  a  passing  visit. 

It  was  on  the  9th  oi  June  that  we  attained  the  ex- 
treme point  marked  upon  the  map,  and  which  appears 
thus  recorded  in  the  diary  : — 

Portuguese-African  Expedition. 
June  8th,  1879.  Page  608. 

Leet  Bank  oe  the  River  Cuotgo. 

Aneroid  2394  ft.  (not  corr.)  Temperature  80°  Falir. 

Desert  still  continues. 

At  midday  upon  a  rocky  hill.     O  mer.  60°  15'  29" 

To-day's  march  a  fac-simile  of  the  five  preceding  ones.  Not  a  soul 
in  sight. 

Since  sunrise  we  have  drifted  literally  at  the  mercy  of  the  ground. 

We  can  go  no  further.  We  turn  back  to-day.  Ten  men  suffering 
with  dysentery. 

No  appearance  of  the  guide's  track.  Little  water,  and  rations  at  the 
lowest  ebb.      Quianvo  (senzala  bearing  179°  true.) 

Cuango  visible  in  the  distance.  We  mark  an  extraordinary  bare 
mountain  bearing  335°  true  N.E.,  and  imagine  it  must  be  the  same 
that  is  near  the  Cuilo. 

Great  conflagrations  to  the  N.W. 

Heat  intense.     Fever  at  night- fall,  dysentery  permanent. 

A  cursed  territory  is  this  of  Yacca  ! 

Turning  our  faces  southwards,  partly  over  the  same 
ground,  our  troubles  crowded  upon  us,  as  the  extracts 
from  the  diary  will  show  : — 

Portuguese-African  Expedition. 
June  10th,  1879.  P^e  609 

Near  Yanga  Galamo. 

Aneroid  2346  ft.  (corr.)  Temperature  89°  Fahr. 

What  a  day  has  this  been  !  The  longest  march  we  have  yet  made 
in  Africa,  covering  twenty-five  miles. 


Despondency.  137 

Having  left  the  foot  of  the  Hnamo,  we  came  at  10.30  upon  several 
lakes,  lying  under  colossal  mountains. 

As  we  had  very  little  to  eat,  we  resolved  to  go  on. 

Unhappy  wretches  that  we  were,  we  only  plunged  into  an  immense 
desert — savage,  awful  — through  which  we  trudged  west  and  south. 

It  was  six  o'clock  in  the  evening  when  hy  chance  we  reached  a  lake. 
This  part  of  the  country  abounds  in  them,  but  rivers  there  are  none. 

Frightful  dysentery.     One  of  us  seriously  ill. 

]No  appearance  of  the  Cugho  ;  it  must,  of  course,  be  a  long  way  off 
yet. 

What  shall  we  possibly  do  here,  if  our  remaining  modicum  of  flour 
gives  out  ?  This  is  Africa  with  a  vengeance  !  Lately  we  have  not 
seen  a  head  of  game. 

It  is  9.30  p.m.,  and  the  heat  is  still  great.  Fires  in  the  distance  to 
the  northwards.  The  Cuango  lies  behind  us,  with  the  remainder  unex- 
plored. What  will  they  say  of  us  at  home  ?  So  near  to  a  solution  of 
the  problem  and  obliged  to  give  it  up  ?  Patience  !  Patience  !  It  is 
all  that  is  left  us.  So  farewell  to  our  hopes  !  May  those  who  come 
after  us  be  more  successful ! 

Tlie  caravan  was  encamped  on  the  margin  of  a  lake 
when  the  above  lines  were  written.  It  was  ten  at  night ; 
and  thousands  of  stars  were  twinkling  in  the  firmament ; 
But  there  was  no  sleep  for  us ;  that  dreadful  insomnia, 
our  companion  in  suffering,  forbade  forgetfulness. 

The  gloomiest  thoughts  had  taken  possession  of  our 
mind,  and  stretched  at  full  length,  one  within,  groaning 
with  fever,  the  other  without,  we  were  each  a  prey  to 
them. 

At  midnight  the  moon  appeared,  it  seemed  to  us  a 
yellow  blotch  upon  a  dark  ground,  like  a  tinsel  ornament 
upon  a  funeral  pall.  A  painful  and  inexplicable  sentiment 
pervaded  the  soul,  the  heart  seemed  overflowing,  and  at 
length  tears  filled  our  eyes !  Moments  like  these  can 
scarce  be  realized  by  him  who  reads  of  such  journeys  in 
his  cosy  chair. 

Poor  explorer !  Moved  by  the  simple  interest  of 
science,  he  sets  aside  his  ease,  his  family,  his  health, 
and  risks  his  very  life  in  these  distant  lands,  and  yet  he 


138  West  and  Central  Africa. 

alone  can  appreciate  the  strange  influence  exerted  upon 
the  mind  by  this  tropical  nature,  so  beautiful,  so  grand 
and  yet  so  awful.  Feeling  it  all,  he  for  the  most  part 
conceals  it  within  his  heart  of  hearts,  apprehensive  that 
in  Europe,  the  flippant  sarcasm  of  his  critics  may  fall 
upon  his  enthusiasm  or  upon  a  too  truthful  record  of  his 
fears,  his  labours,  and  his  sufferings  ! 

It  was  on  the  11th  of  June  that  we  resumed  our  march, 
and  the  day  appeared  an  age,  so  full  was  it  of  toil  and 
anxiety.  But  we  were  not  forsaken  by  Providence, 
although  our  rebellious  spirits  seemed  inclined  to  think 
so,  for  as  evening  was  approaching,  to  our  great  joy  we 
discovered,  on  climbing  another  weary  height,  some 
human  habitations  on  the  banks  of  a  river,  and  we  knew 
that  that  river  was  the  Cugho. 


QUI-VUVI,    THE    SILK    SPIDER. 


*S9 


CHAPTER  VII. 

The  author's  experience  respecting  the  importance  of  the  stomach  — 
Brief  sketch  of  the  course  of  the  River  Cnango — In  the  Cugho — 
The  laud  of  plenty — Maluvo  wine  and  its  collection — Lake  Aqui- 
londa  wiped  off  the  map  —  The  palm  and  climatologic  zones — The 
Rivers  Sussa  and  Cauali — Vegetation — Sova  Catuma  Cangando 
aud  indiscreet  curiosity  of  bis  lady-subjects — A  native  song — 
Strauge  ceremony  among  tbe  Ma-bungo — An  interment  in  the 
woods — Danje,  Luamba,  Matamba,  and  Pacaca  Aquibonda — 
Caculo-Cabaca — Homicide  of  a  carrier — The  value  of  life  among 
the  negroes — Vunda-'m-JZbo  and  the  last  burial — The  valleys  of 
the  Lu-calla  and  a  story  of  a  crocodile — A  new  theory  of 
Cosmogony — The  delights  of  the  table — Passage  of  the  Lu-calla — 
List  of  members  of  the  caravan  that  reached  Duque  de  Braganca. 

Among  the  facts  that  are  most  susceptible  of  originating 
great  consolation  upon  this  our  little  planet,  there 
figures  indubitably  one  which,  although  by  some  placed 
only  in  the  second  class,  should,  from  our  point  of  view, 
be  held  to  hold  a  hisrh  rank  in  the  first. 

"We  refer  to  the  pleasure  experienced  by  the  man 
who,  having  a  perfectly  empty  stomach  and  who  has  felt 
for  long  hours  the  slow  torture  of  hunger,  unexpectedly 
comes  upon  the  means  of  filling  the  cavity. 

However  sublime  and  poetical  the  scenes  through 
which  a  mau  may  be  passing,  and  however  intellectually 
superior  the  sensations  transmitted  to  his  soul  through 
the  medium  of  the  eyes  and  ears,  they  count  as  nothing 
if  the  digestive  organs  are  left  out  of  calculation.  An 
empty  stomach  is  of  that  exacting  nature  that  it   will 


1 40  West  and  Central  Africa. 

admit  of  no  considerations  beyond  its  own  exigencies. 
So  that,  though  it  may  be  a  machine  independent  of  the 
spirit  and  the  will,  it  cannot  be  said  that  the  converse  is 
equally  correct. 

Great  ideas  do  not  precisely  spring  from  a  full 
stomach,  but  they  are  formed  when  it  is  full ;  and  if  un- 
accompanied by  that  very  commonplace  circumstance, 
the  grandest  conceptions  soon  dwindle  and  perish.  We 
will  not  too  vigorously  adhere  to  the  Latin  phrase  Fruges 
consumer e  nati,  but  without  food  man  does  nothing  at  all. 

So  it  happened  that,  struggling  as  we  had  been  for 
more  than  a  month  with  the  difficulty  of  regular  suste- 
nance, and  during  the  latter  days  with  the  actual  out- 
posts of  starvation,  a  profound  change  had  come  over 
the  chiefs  of  the  expedition,  noticeable  more  particularly 
in  indifference  to  assume  the  initiative.  In  both  alike 
the  will  had  become  bent,  the  energy  half  extinguished, 
the  ideas  scattered  and  confused,  and  a  huge  spectre  had 
been  evoked  which  was  ever  present  to  our  weakened 
nerves,  the  spectre  of  gaunt  and  griping  famine  ! 

We  were  no  longer  capable  of  thinking,  that  is  to  say, 
in  a  regular  and  consecutive  manner ;  we  let  matters 
simply  drift,  and  saw  with  perfect  indifference  things 
which  at  a  later  period  would  have  evoked  our  anger, 
our  compassion,  or  our  active  interference. 

This  being  the  cost, — what  was  the  gain  that  could  be 
set  against  it  ?  We  had  succeeded  in  acquiring  for  geo- 
graphical science  at  least  this  knowledge,  namely,  that 
the  Cuango  is  a  river,  like  many  others  on  this  vast 
continent,  less  capable  of  being  turned  to  account  than 
was  generally  supposed,  so  far  as  its  navigableness  is 
concerned. 

From  parallel  11Q  30',  approximately,  where  its  sources 
are  to  be  found,  up  to  5°  05'  at  the  Quicunji  cascade,  the 


The  course  of  the  Cuango.  141 

river  lias  a  sinuous  course  of  580  geographic  miles,  and 
a  total  fall,  between  its  extreme  points,  of  about  tliree  feet 
four  inches  per  mile. 

Rocks,  stones,  rapids,  and  cataracts  interrupt  the 
stream  and  twelve  of  the  points  at  which  they  do  so  are 
known  to  us,  namely, — the  first  at  parallel  10°  17',  to  the 
east  of  Muene-songo ;  the  second  at  10°  25',  near  the 
Camba  rivulet ;  the  third  at  10°  08',  Caxita  rocks  ;  the 
fourth  at  10°  05',  the  Louisa  falls ;  the  fifth  at  10°  05',  a 
cataract  a  little  above  port  Muhungo  ;  the  sixth  at  9°  20', 
Zamba;  the  seventh  at  19°  19',  Tuaza ;  the  eighth  at  9°, 
cataract  Cunga-ria-Cunga ;  the  ninth  at  7°  42',  Suco-ia- 
Muquita  or  Suco-ia-n'bundi ;  the  tenth  at  7°  38', 
just  below  the  Camba;  the  eleventh  at  7°  35',  in  the 
midst  of  numerous  islands ;  and  the  twelfth  at  5°  05', 
the  Quicunji  waterfall,  which  is  only  passable  after  the 
heavy  rains. 

The  greatest  navigable  tract,  therefore,  is  that  space 
which  lies  between  the  cataract  at  7°  35'  and  Quicunji,  or 
about  190  geographic  miles.  The  river  there  is  of  vari- 
able width,  never  less  than  seventy- six  yards  and  a  half, 
and  from  five  to  twenty  feet  in  depth. 

The  current  loses  a  little  of  its  speed  in  the  upper 
section,  where  the  stream  in  the  summer  season  has  a 
fall  of  about  three  feet  two  inches  per  mile.  We  think  it 
well  to  mention  that  our  longitudes  being  strictly  correct, 
as  the  record,  partly  chronometric,  was  compared  both  on 
departure  and  arrival  at  the  Portugese  station  of  Duque 
de  Braganca,  and  the  latter  again  at  the  terminus  on 
the  coast,  it  appears  to  us  that  the  point  of  afnuence 
of  the  Cuango  (or  Ibari-N'Kutu)  as  marked  upon  the 
maps,  just  above  Stanley  Pool,  is  erroneously  placed 
considerably  to  the  eastward.  It  is  indeed  difficult  to 
conceive   such    a   lay   of  the  land    as    would  allow    two 


142 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


water-courses,  of  the  importance  of  the  Cuango  and 
Congo-Zaire  running  almost  parallel  to  each  other  and 
in  opposite  directions  !  Any  way,  we  shall  shortly  have 
a  solution  of  this  doubt  concerning  the  longitudes,  inas- 
much as  that  intelligent  explorer,  M.  de  Brazza  will,  in 
due  course,  bring  over  to  Europe  the  results  of  his  in- 
vestigations. 


PROVISIONS    LITERALLY    SELOWEKED. 


Having  arrived  at  the  margin  of  the  river  which  some 
time  before  we  had  crossed  lower  down,  we  entered  upon 
a  new  and  more  smiling  period  of  existence.  No 
sooner  had  we  pitched  our  camp  than  natives  nocked 
in  from  all  sides,  so  that  in  an  hour  we  found  ourselves 
in  a  position  to  restore  much  of  our  lost  flesh  and 
animation.     Provisions  literally   showered!     Beads    and 


An  Anniversary.  143 

pieces  of  cloth  were  transmuted  into  poultry,  pigs,  sheep, 
flour  and  any  number  of  calabashes  of  mahtvo.  The 
cries,  chatter,  and  discussions  of  human  beings,  were 
mixed  up  with  the  hoarse  grunting  of  a  dying  porker, 
the  bleating  of  a  sheep,  and  the  remonstrances  of  fowls 
in  the  hands  of  their  executioners. 

Standing  in  the  centre  of  a  group,  our  redoubted  chef  by 
our  side,  we  presided  over  successive  auctions,  disputing 
with  one,  arguing  with  another,  and  at  length  yielding 
to  not  too  exorbitant  demands.  And  when  the  sun  of 
the  11th  of  June  gave  us  a  parting  glance,  he  left  us  in 
a  state  of  satisfaction  to  which  we  had  long  been 
strangers. 

We  had  each  eaten  and  drunk  for  four,  and  only  when 
we  were  full,  considered  it  necessary  to  gather  up  and 
store  the  surplus,  to  prevent  our  stomachs  being  again 
subjected  to  the  starving  rations  of  the  past.  Our  men, 
on  the  other  hand,  like  veritable  children,  forgetful  of 
the  sadness  of  many  previous  days,  gave  themselves  up 
to  pleasure,  and  extraordinary  to  relate,  kept  up  their 
dance  as  long  as  their  calabashes  of  mahtvo  retained  a 
drop  of  the  precious  liquid,  but  ere  that  moment  arrived, 
we  had  dropped  off  into  a  profound  sleep. 

It  was  the  eve  of  the  birthday  of  one  of  us.  On  the 
12th  of  June,  he  completed  his  twenty-ninth  year,  and 
he  boasted  that  he  was  the  youngest  explorer  who  had 
ventured  into  African  wilds.  In  honour  of  the  event  we 
determined  to  remain  in  our  present  site  for  at  least 
that  day,  and  amuse  ourselves  with  a  visit  to  the  river, 
where  crocodiles  and  hippopotami  abounded. 

The  leisure  thus  obtained  will  allow  us  to  give  some 
account  of  the  celebrated  mahtvo  or  palm-wine  whereof 
mention  has,  of  late,  so  frequently  been  made. 

The  palm-wine,  which  is  found  in  this  part  of  Africa 


144  West  and  Central  Africa. 

from  parallel  7°  northwards,  but  not  south  of  that  point, 
saving  near  the  coast  and  in  small  quantities,  is  an  agree- 
able drink,  the  flavour  of  which  remotely  reminds  one  of 
muscatel,  and,  when  newly  obtained  from  the  plant,  is 
extremely  sparkling  and  aromatic.  After  about  twenty- 
four  hours  ascetic  fermentation  sets  in,  and  it  becomes 
very  acrid  and  intoxicating.  This  is  the  stage  at  which 
the  natives  appreciate  it  most. 

It  is  extracted  from  two  different  plants,  the  Elais 
Guineensis  and  Raphia,  of  which  we  have  already  spoken, 
a  true  dwarf  palm.  In  the  first  place,  the  natives  climb 
the  tree,  and  making  an  incision  near  the  base  of  the 
branch  which  sustains  the  new  fruit,  they  fix  a  calabash 
at  the  spot,  to  receive  the  sap,  and  replace  the  receptacle 
as  it  gets  full;  in  the  second  instance,  they  effect  a 
cutting  near  the  nerve  of  the  leaves  (which  are  used 
as  supports  for  the  coast  palanquin),  and  there  insert  a 
calabash,  with  a  spout,  to  collect  the  juice.  The  liquid 
extracted  from  the  latter  is  relatively  more  agreeable, 
aromatic,  and  abundant  than  the  former. 

Amid  the  dense  mu-chito,  with  which  we  had  such 
terrible  struggles,  we  met  with  the  plants  in  abundance  ; 
in  fact  they  might  be  called  perfect  vineyards.  No  native 
will  dare  touch  another's  calabash  when  collecting  the 
sap,  and  an  infringement  of  this  rule  would  be  likely  to 
lead  to  serious  consequences.  A  certain  regularity  is 
observed  both  in  making  the  wine  and  in  preserving 
the  portion  of  forest  that  produces  it.  The  calabashes 
used  for  its  collection  are  placed  at  sunset  and  daybreak. 
We  observed  the  natives  in  the  early  morning  engaged  at 
the  work  of  gathering  in  the  first  crop  and  again  in  the 
evening,  so  as  to  have  it  fresh  or  at  a  certain  degree  of 
fermentation,  according  to  the  taste  of  consumers.  The 
quantity  must   represent  many  thousands   of  quarts  per 


.  A  n  Apocryphal  L ake .  145 

senzala,  if  we  could  judge  by  the  quantities  we  saw  con- 
sumed at  the  places  where  we  stopped. 

The  river  Cugho  describes,  from  the  point  where  we 
were  now  sojourning,  a  curve  eastwards  something  like  the 
letter  U.  Its  bed  is  excessively  tortuous,  and  the  banks 
are  high.  Lakes  l  in  considerable  numbers  were  pointed 
out  to  us  in  different  directions,  and  amongst  them  one 
to  the  north-west,  in  the  territory  of  Macume  N'jimbo, 
whence,  as  it  was  stated,  the  river  derived  its  source. 

We  remained  long  under  the  impression  that  the 
celebrated  Aquilonda,  which  we  had  been  seeking  since 
our  arrival  in  Yacca,  must  be  somewhere  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, and  we  made  constant  inquiries  among  the 
natives  as  to  its  whereabouts,  but  without  success.  Un- 
like, therefore,  almost  all  the  explorers  that  have  lately 
been  in  Africa  (and  who,  if  they  were  not  the  actual 
discoverers  of  lakes  did  at  least  survey  and  define  some 
that  were  but  little  known,  as  for  instance,  Stanley 
the  Victoria,  Cameron  the  Tanganika,  Serpa  Pinto 
the  Carri-Carri),  we  were  forced,  to  our  regret,  to  strike 
oat  one  which  had  been  bothering  us  for  a  very  long 
time.  The  natives  only  stared  when  we  talked  about 
this  great  lake  Aquilonda,  and  they  looked  even  more 
astonished  when  the  subject  of  the  celebrated  river 
Barbela  was  broached,  which  we  described  as  a  drainage 
canal  of  the  lake  in  question. 

1  The  lakes  observed  by  us  in  these  parallels,  as  well  as  those  of 
which  we  procured  information,  do  not,  as  at  first  sight  might  be 
imagined,  constitute  large  pools  in  the  midst  of  extensive  plains,  so  as 
to  lead  one  to  suppose  that  the  ten  marked  between  the  basins  of  the 
Cnango  and  Cugho  are  the  mere  remnants  of  a  vast  lake  partly  dried 
up.  They  are,  on  the  contrary,  small  basins  of  two,  three,  and  four 
miles  in  extent,  confined  by  lofty  mounts,  whose  surplus  waters  in  the 
rainy  season  escape  through  little  ravines  into  the  lower  ground,  and 
soon  get  evaporated. 

VOL.    II.  L 


146  West  and  Central  Africa. 

"  Nothing,  nothing,  senhor;  there's  no  such  a  thing," 
was  their  invariable  remark. 

After  mature  reflection,  therefore,  we  have  come  to  the 
conclusion  that  this  great  lake  must  be  a  chimera  evolved 
from  the  brain  of  some  imaginative  missionary  (perhaps 
a  capuchin  friar),  who,  being  in  the  Congo  and  hearing 
some  of  the  natives  of  the  Zombo  or  Sosso  talk  about 
the  Cuango  and  other  great  rivers  to  the  eastward,  and 
dilate  upon  the  existence  of  similar  waters  in  the  direction 
of  the  Lunda,  conceived  a  vague  notion  about  huge  lakes, 
so  without  more  ado  jotted  one  down  upon  his  parchment 
map  under  the  Latin  designation  of  Aquce  Lunda  vul- 
garized as  time  went  on  into  Aquelunda  and  Aquilonda. 

Ten  miles  above  our  camp  the  Cugho  receives  an 
affluent  on  its  right  bank,  called  Cauali  which,  rising  in 
the  Danje,  runs  a  course  of  not  less  than  100  miles,  and 
receives  the  drainage  waters  of  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Finde  plateau. 

The  Cugho,  which  forms  a  perfect  barrier  to  the 
desert  lands  of  the  north,  is  dotted  all  along  its  right 
bank  by  numerous  senzalas  of  Ma-hungo,  of  whom  we 
have  already  spoken,  an  extremely  superstitious  and 
ignorant  people,  whose  occupations  are  fishing  and  hunt- 
ing in  the  surrounding  district.  To  these  tribes  belonged 
sundry  of  the  hunters  we  fell  in  with  in  the  forests. 

A  fact  that  is  worth  recording  here  is  a  confirmation 
of  the  special  character  of  climatologic  zones  with  regard 
to  the  flora,  the  latitude  and  altitude  exerting  upon  it 
their  well-known  influence.  The  palm,  iike  the  baobab, 
keeps  within  its  own  perfectly  defined  limits  ;  and  thus  the 
Ra/phici,  whence  the  maluvo  is  derived,  and  which  is  so  pro- 
fusely met  with  in  the  north,  disappears  as  if  by  enchant- 
ment south  of  parallel  8°.  Northwards,  the  Iloyphia  is 
everywhere  visible,  but  not  a  vestige  of  it  appears  below 


River  Courses.  147 

the  line  we  have  defined.  It  is  just  possible  that  this 
arrangement  does  not  penetrate  into  the  heart  of  the 
continent,  or  into  the  Lunda,  but  if  so,  it  will  be  due  to 
the  lower  level  of  that  country. 

Having  spent  the  12th  of  June  in  rest,  to  the  alleviation 
of  the  febrile  condition  from  which  we  were  continually 
suffering,  and  having  dispensed  the  necessary  medica- 
ments, namely,  chlorate  of  potash  to  two  scurvy 
patients,  diluted  nitrate  of  silver  to  another  with 
ophthalmia,  quinine,  camphor,  and  adhesive  plaster  to 
fourteen  with  wounds,  and  sulphate  of  magnesia  to  a 
score  who  did  not  like  to  be  left  out  of  the  good  things, 
orders  were  given  to  pack  up  and  make  ready  for  a  fresh 
start. 

The  time  had  arrived  for  us  to  abandon  the  northern 
districts,  for  neither  our  strength,  nor  our  resources 
would  permit  us  to  venture  there  again.  Instead,  how- 
ever, of  making  our  way  directly  to  Ambriz  by  the  Finde 
and  Lu-oje,  we  decided  to  follow  a  south- south-west  track9 
and  having  examined  the  basin  of  the  Lu-calla,  to  pro- 
ceed afterwards  to  the  Cuanza,  the  course  of  which  we 
were  desirous  of  surveying. 

On  the  13th,  as  soon  as  daylight  appeared  in  the  camp, 
the  sick  and  the  sound  alike  turned  out,  and  our  carriers, 
with  their  loads  of  sixty  pounds  apiece,  nerved  themselves 
for  their  work  in  a  most  praiseworthy  manner. 

The  country  at  first  was  level  enough  but  it  soon 
assumed  its  broken  character.  In  the  distance,  to  north- 
north-west,  we  distinguished  notable  masses  of  darker 
vegetation.  These  were  the  banks  of  the  Cauali  piloting 
its  waters  northwards.  To  the  south-east  a  dense 
barrier  also  indicated  the  course  of  a  winding  river.  This 
was  the  Susso,  which,  parallel  to  the  former,  conveys  the 
waters  of  Matambaby  the  Cugho,  into  the  Cuango.     "We 

l  2 


148  West  and  Central  Africa. 

therefore  followed  the  divisorial  line  of  the  waters  of  the 
two  rivers,  steering  our  course  by  the  compass. 

Numerous  lakes,  in  every  respect  similar  in  character 
to  those  already  described,  lay  to  east  and  west  of 
our  track,  whence  we  were  enabled  to  draw  our  supplies 
of  water. 

We  were  now  under  the  full  influence  of  the  south-east 
gales.  On  every  high  and  exposed  spot  of  ground  the 
impetuous  wind  buffeted  the  caravan,  and  at  times 
threatened  to  sweep  it  away.  White  fleecy  clouds  scudded 
rapidly  along  in  the  direction  of  the  ocean,  and  the  sky 
itself  wore  the  appearance  of  the  sea. 

From  the  Sussa  affluents,  on  the  elevated  plateau,  we 
passed  on  to  those  of  the  Cauali,  descending  a.  rough 
region,  and  then  came  upon  an  infinity  of  small  rivulets, 
furrowing  the  ground  in  every  direction,  and  which  of 
themselves  made  the  march  a  very  toilsome  one.  Small 
hamlets  hove  frequently  in  sight,  whose  inhabitants,  in 
little  troops,  having  nothing  else  to  do,  followed  us  for 
hours. 

The  vegetation  wore  a  characteristic  aspect,  different 
to  that  observable  more  to  the  eastward.  Trees  with 
slender  trunks  sprang  from  the  bottoms  of  the  valleys  in 
search  of  light,  and  then  threw  out  their  upper  branches 
in  the  shape  of  umbrella  heads,  whose  lustrous  and 
strangely- shaped  leaves  sheltered  from  the  sun's  beams 
many  a  broad  patch  of  ground.  Among  them  was  one 
of  unusual  dimensions,  elegant  in  shape,  covered  with 
brilliant  red  flowers,  which  at  times  constitute  perfect 
zones  of  the  forest,  and  perfectly  resemble  the  Spathodea 
campanulata.  The  air  was  full  of  winged  seeds  like  down, 
yielded  to  the  violent  wind  by  colossal  Eriodendron,  in 
such  quantities  that  the  ground  was  literally  carpeted 
with  the  soft,  satiny  wool. 


Cat  inn  a  Canzaudo. 


149 


We  found  immense  quantities  of  sugar-cane,  from 
three  to  three  and  a  half  inches  in  diameter,  on  the 
banks  of  rivulets  near  human  dwellings.  Maize  would 
appear  to  grow  here  all  the  year  round,  for  we  saw  some 
already  in  ear,  and  other  plants  just  springing,  so  that 
we  were  able  to  get  it  fresh  and  roast  it  to  make  bread. 
Whole  plantations  of  tobacco  and  abundance  of  cotton 
were  visible  in  the  clearer  ground,  the  latter  apparently 
being  represented  by  more  than  one  species. 

Near  the  village  of  Quimana  we  for  the  second  time 
met  with  the  track  running  from  the  Holo  to  the  coast, 
and  which  leads  to  the  great  pambo  or  cross-road  to  the 
south-east  of  Encoge  (N'Hoje) ;  there,  subdividing,  one 
path  runs  directly  to  Ambriz,  and  the  other  to  Bembe, 
along  the  river  M'briche  as  far  as  the  Ambrizette,  where 
the  latter  river  disembogues. 

After  a  lapse  of  four  days  we  encamped  at  Songanhe 
for  the  purpose  of  laying  in  stores  and  receiving  a  visit 
from  the  Sova,  Catuma  Cangando,  whose  place  we  had 
left  behind.  He  turned  out  to  be  a  fierce-looking  old 
fellow,  with  a  rough  beard,  wrapped  in  an  immense  cloth 
of  striped  chintz. 

The  day  we  spent  in  the  village  was  one  of  confusion 
from  morning  till  night,  and  at  least  for  six  hours  it 
might  be  said  that  the  white  men  were  "  on  view." 
Nothing  would  induce  the  natives  to  clear  out ;  and  as 
for  the  ladies,  their  interest  was  unbounded  !  and  when 
they  were  tired  of  staring  at  us,  they  would  go  and  look 
at  the  outsides  of  the  goods,  then  pay  a  visit  to  the 
kitchen  and  come  back  and  stare  again  at  us — a  per- 
formance that  went  on  for  hours. 

We  expected  from  one  moment  to  another  that  they 
would  want  us  to  strip,  in  order  to  satisfy  themselves 
whether  our  bodies  were  covered  with  the  same  lono-  hair 


1 50  West  and  Central  Africa. 

as  our  faces.  But  they  obtained  their  knowledge  without 
solicitation  in  this  wise  :  One  of  us,  tired  of  being  made 
a  show  of,  had  gone  into  his  hut,  and  drawing  the  curtain 
over  the  entrance,  had  got  into  his  india-rubber  bath  for 
a  wash  and  refresher.  He  had  not,  however,  been 
disporting  himself  there,  like  another  Neptune,  for  more 
than  five  minutes,  when  some  damsels,  moved  by  curiosity, 
drew  aside  the  curtain  to  peep  in.  They  did  so,  however, 
so  clumsily,  that  down  came  the  curtain  in  their  hands 

and there  was  a  tableau  !     The  bather  shouted 

out  like  one  possessed,  and  no  wonder  under  the  circum- 
stances ;  and  the  spectators,  at  the  apparition  of  what 
may  have  seemed  to  them  a  white  monster,  ran  off 
screaming,  the  women  and  children  expressing  as  much 
alarm  as  if  they  had  beheld  a  crocodile.  Even  the  Sova 
took  the  alarm  and  seemed  inclined  to  join  his  subjects 
in  their  flight !  The  situation  was  certainly  an  uncom- 
fortable if  a  comic  one,  and  there  was  something  also  in 
it  to  wound  the  amour-propre  of  the  principal  performer 
in  the  comedy ;  for  however  little  he  might  pride  himself 
upon  his  personal  charms,  the  fact  of  his  being  an  object 
of  terror,  from  which  women  and  men  alike  fled  in  dire 
fear  was,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  sad  and  humiliating. 

Having  recovered,  however,  from  this  vexation,  we 
decided  upon  having  our  dinner  in  spite  of  our  company, 
and  then  spent  the  rest  of  the  afternoon  in  entertaining 
our  visitors,  exhibiting  our  arms,  firing  them  off,  and 
otherwise  amusing  them  till,  seeing  the  men  by  numerous 
signs,  such  as  opening  their  mouths  and  putting  their 
fingers  into  their  throats,  and  pointing  to  the  pits  of 
their  stomachs,  give  evidence  of  the  cravings  of  hun- 
ger, we  dismissed  the  untiring  dames  to  their  homes 
and  domestic  affairs,  of  which  they  had  been  so  lono- 
neglectful. 


Departure  from  the  Village. 


151 


Early  in  the  morning  of  the  17th  we  were  again  astir, 
and  omstarting  took  a  south-south-westerly  course.  The 
little  village,  as  we  left  it,  had  already  begun  to  assume 


CUKIOSITY   PUNISHED. 


its  wonted  melancholy  air,  the  men  retired,  and  the 
women,  who  were  the  last  to  go,  looked  with  longing 
eyes  at   all  the  wealth  that  they  had  been  permitted  to 


152  West  and  Central  Africa. 

glance  at,  and  which  was  now  slipping  away  from  them 
for  ever. 

"  We  are  off  to  the  calunga"  (the  sea),  was  the  cry  of 
our  joyous  band,  and  then  they  struck  up  an  improvised 
song,  the  sense  of  which  is  embodied  in  the   following 

lines  : — 

Good-bye,  Cuango,  woods  adieu, 
We're  going,  other  scenes  to  brave  ; 
The  whites  are  eager  now  to  view 
Their  odtos  2  floating  on  the  wave. 
Eh-Eh-e  !  Eh-Eh-e  ! 

Mounting  a  lofty  hill  we  came  upon  the  territory  of 
the  important  Sova  Catmna  Caimba,  and  observed  in 
quick  succession  a  number  of  hamlets  dotted  about. 
Quitanguca,  Cabenda-Candambo,  Mucole-Maiale,  Funda- 
Imbi,  Petro,  and  Quicanga  were  all  so  many  resting- 
places  where  there  was  a  lot  of  gossip  and  many  a 
calabash  of  the  country  ale  to  be  emptied  while  it  was 
enacting,  and  which,  as  Capulca  expressed  it,  "  enabled 
them  to  go  on  their  way  with  a  contented  heart  !  " — we 
presume  he  meant  a  contented  stomach. 

We  have  referred  on  a  former  occasion  to  the  ceremony 
attending  the  expectoration  of  the  Sova,  and  along  this 
road  we  found  it  assume  another  shape.  When  the 
great  man,  after  a  long  speech  at  his  receptions,  clears 
his  throat,  one  of  his  subjects  rushes  forward  and  kneel- 
ing in  front  of  the  chief  joins  his  hands  and  then  opens 
them  like  a  book  to  receive  the  precious  contribution. 
His  Majesty  then  going  through  an  elaborate  prepara- 
tory performance,  opens  his  august  lips  and  spits  into 
the  open  palms  of  the.  man  who  may  not  inappropriately 
be  called  the  royal  spittoon  ;  which  individual,'  after  the 
operation,  rubs  his  hands  over  his  naked  body  and  then 
dries  them  by  wiping  them  under  his  arm-pits  ! 
2  Odtos,  European  boats. 


Distribution  of  Waters.  153 

As  we  were  passing  near  the  senzala  of  another  ruler, 
N'gana  JSTzendo,  we  met  in  the  wood  with  a  multitude  of 
men  and  women  who  were  making  a  horrible  noise  by 
cries  and  clapping  of  hands.  On  coming  nearer  we 
perceived  upon  the  ground  in  their  midst  the  corpse  of  an 
old  man  stretched  upon  the  ground.  A  tall  fellow  with 
feathers  in  his  hair,  seated  on  a  stool,  was  directing 
the  chant  by  beating  time  with  his  palms.  Hard  by, 
some  men  were  engaged  in  digging  a  grave,  whilst 
others  with  small  baskets  were  preparing  one  of  their 
usual  "remedies,"  or  in  other  words  a  last  meal  for  the 
defunct.  As  soon  as  they  caught  sight  of  us,  moved 
by  the  more  novel  excitement,  they  abandoned  their 
funeral  rites,  and  came  flocking  about  the  caravan ; 
but  as  we  had  no  desire  to  interrupt  their  ceremony, 
we  quickly  passed  on. 

A  few  miles  further,  at  the  senzala  of  Munda,  we  de- 
scended a  steep  slope  and  entered  the  basin  of  the  river 
Cauali,  whose  sources  we  shortly  after  crossed.  We 
were  then  in  the  lands  of  the  Danje.  On  the  west  lay 
Luamba,3  on  the  east  Matamba  and  Paoaca  Aquibonda. 
At  no  great  distance  to  the  north-east  were  the  sources 
of  the  river  Sussa,  to  which  we  have  already  referred ;  to 
the  south  those  of  the  Lu-ando,  and  to  the  west  those  of 
the  Lu-calla  in  the  territory  of  the  Oafom^a-Canjimbo,  the 
limit  of  the  States  of  the  Mutemo  Ambuilla  (Dembo). 

This  region,  of  great  interest  from  a  hydrographic 
point  of  view,  was  explored  by  us  as  closely  as  possible 
in  order  to  define  the  distribution   of  the  waters.     From 


3  The  lands  of  Luamba  constitute  a  district  which  at  the  present  time 
is  almost  independent  of  the  Jiuga.  They  are  governed  by  a  powerful 
Sova,  Vunda-'ia-Yuudu  N'gola  (meaning  the  greatest  among  the  Vundas 
of  N'gola)  generally  known  as  Calungo -Luamba,  who  holds  but  little 
intercourse  with  the  King  of  the  Jinga. 


1 54  West  and  Central  Africa. 

the  highest  ground  in  the  neighbourhood  we  sighted  the 
mountainous  territory  of  the  celebrated  Dembos,  whose 
eastern  tribes  are  known  under  the  name  of  Caculo- 
C  abaca. 

While  passing  the  Camaxe  rivulet,  an  affluent  of  the 
river  Danje,  an  untoward  event  occurred  which  caused  us 
much  regret  and  sorrow.  On  descending  in  a  long  file 
the  slope  which  led  down  to  the  rivulet  in  question,  we 
heard  just  ahead  of  us  the  report  of  a  gun,  followed  by  a 
cry.  Turning  sharply  round,  we  saw  the  man  who  was 
nearest  to  us  and  just  behind  suddenly  drop  his  load  and 
fall  to  the  ground  with  a  heavy  thud.  We  ran  up  at 
once,  and  on  a  couple  of  his  companions  raising  him  we 
observed  blood  oozing  from  a  wound  in  the  abdomen. 
The  poor  fellow  had  been  shot  by  a  ball  which,  missing 
us,  who  were  in  front  of  him,  found  its  way  into  his 
body. 

It  was  an  accident,  but  yet  a  culpable  one,  as  it  was 
caused  by  a  neglect  of  express  instructions.  Over  and 
over  again  we  had  urged  upon  our  crew  never  to  have 
their  guns  loaded  with  ball  upon  the  march ;  they  would 
do  it  in  spite  of  us.  It  happened  that  on  that  day  Quis- 
songo,  an  old  man,  either  from  a  desire  to  kill  game  or 
out  of  some  timidity  which  urged  him  to  the  act,  loaded 
his  gun  by  the  sly,  and  while  passing  some  trees  that  im- 
peded his  way,  he  turned  round  to  shift  his  load ;  on 
stooping,  a  bough  caught  the  cock,  the  gun  went  off,  and 
as  the  barrel  was  pointed  our  way,  the  result  was  what  we 
have  described.  A  poor  woman  with  her  infant  at  her 
back  was  almost  like  ourselves  in  the  direct  line  of  fire, 
and  it  was  a  marvel  how  she  or  we  escaped. 

Fording  the  rivulet,  we  hastened  to  the  neighbouring 
senzala  of  the  FzmcZa-ia-Buta  in  order  to  perform  an  in- 
dispensable operation.     The  projectile  had  entered  at  the 


A  terrible  Misadventure, 


155 


base  of  the  abdominal  region,  and  passing  through  the 
intestines  had  lodged  in  the  left  buttock,  very  near  the 
surface.  Our  first  care  was  to  make  an  incision,  and  after 
sounding,  try  and  extract  the  ball.  Unhappily  it  escaped 
us  and  slipped  back  into  the  interior.  All  our  efforts  to 
lay  hold  of  it  were  useless,  and  we  felt  that  every  hope 
of   saving  the  poor  fellow  was  gone.      There  remained 


A    TERRIBLE    MISHAP. 


nothing  but   to    dress   the   two    wounds    and   wait   the 
consequences. 

The  man  never  uttered  a  complaint,  or  seemed  to 
regard  his  involuntary  assassin  with  the  slightest  feeling 
of  anger.  A  look  of  melancholy  resignation  sat  upon  his 
features  ;  and,  strange  to  relate,  the  unhappy  fellow  had 
more  than  once  uttered  a  presentiment  that  he  should  die 


156  West  and  Central  Africa. 

in  the  woods.  In  the  Cuango  he  had  been  brought  to  the 
brink  of  the  grave  by  dysentery ;  from  this  he  had  re- 
covered— to  fall  a  victim  to  an  accident  when  drawing 
near  the  close  of  his  labours  !  When  the  operation  was 
performed,  we  despatched  Jose  to  the  village  to  pay  our 
compliments  to  the  Sova,  and  present  him  with  apiece  of 
six  yards  of  gingham. 

Half  an  hour  afterwards  he  returned  with  the  ruler's 
reply  : — "  The  Sova  is  satisfied  with  his  present.  He  is 
very  glad  to  see  the  whites  in  his  country,  and  intends 
shortly  to  pay  them  a  visit.  Only"  .  .  .  and  there 
Jose  stopped. 

'•'  Only  what  ?  "  we  inquired,  for  we  were  certain  that 
some  imposition  remained  behind. 

"  Only,"  continued  Jose,  in  a  hesitating  tone,  aware 
that  he  was  about  to  communicate  something  unpleasant ; 
Cs  only,  the  Sova  added  that  the  whites  had  committed  a 
crime  in  his  territory  ;  they  had  killed  a  man,  and  must 
pay ;  because,  he  said,  if  he  were  in  the  whites'  country 
and  killed  any  one,  they  would  certainly  make  him  pay  for 
the  deed." 

This  message,  delivered  aloud,  in  presence  of  the  poor 
wounded  man,  struck  us  as  so  brutally  inhuman  that  our 
first  thought  was  to  lay  a  stick  about  the  guide's  shoul- 
ders to  teach  him  better  manners,  and  not,  in  the  hearing 
of  a  sufferer,  talk  of  him  as  if  he  were  already  defunct. 
Calling  to  mind,  however  the  effect  of  such  a  chastisement 
on  another  guide  in  the  Quissongo,  we  prudently  held  our 
hand,  and  coldly  inquired, — 

"What  does  the  Sova  ask  for  the  pretended  crime?" 
"  He  wants  four  yards  of  cloth." 

Human  life  we  thought  is  cheap  enough  in  this  part 
of  the  world.  Four  yards  !  why  this  very  chief  would 
ask  more  to  bury  him  ! 


On  the  March.  157 

On  the  2 6 tli  of  June,  pursuing  a  southerly  route,  we 
came  upon  the  course  of  the  Lu-ando,  which  we  deter- 
mined, and  on  the  27th  pulled  up  at  the  FmaeZfl-ia-Ebo, 
the  limit  of  the  lands  of  the  F^7?^«-ia-Cassanda,  where 
our  companion  breathed  his  last  sigh,  and.  where  we 
interred  him.  This  made  the  sixth  of  our  losses,  and 
his  grave  was  the  fifth  we  had  dug  in  the  interior,  as 
our  first  death  occurred  at  Bensmella. 

Thanks  to  Providence  the  most  difficult  part  of  our 
task  was  over,  and  by  the  Divine  mercy  we  ourselves 
were  as  yet  spared.  It  is  true  that  the  climate  as  we  got 
nearer  the  seaboard  did  not  improve,  but  after  so  many 
vicissitudes  we  trusted  that  we  were  not  to  succumb 
when  we  were  so  near  the  term  of  our  mission ;  and  in 
reflections  of  this  nature,  with  the  sound  of  the  mattocks 
ringing  in  our  ears,  the  evening  of  the  27th  of  June 
closed  in. 

On  the  28th,  while  the  inhabitants  of  the  neighbouring 
senzalas  were  still  snoring,  we  turned  out  of  our  poor 
huts  to  pursue  our  journey  for  the  fiftieth  time,  march- 
ing along  the  basin  of  the  Lu-ando,  which  we  had  first 
to  wade  across  with  the  water  to  our  necks.  Beyond 
extended  the  verdant  valleys  intersected  by  the  waters  of 
the  Lucalla,  the  scene  animated  by  groups  of  senzalas, 
and  numerous  herds  of  cattle,  through  which  we  pursued 
our  peaceful  way ;  admiring  the  calm  beauty  of  the  scene 
and  contemplating  the  sort  of  steak  yonder  stately  ox 
would  yield. 

Coming  npon  the  track  which  had  been  made  by  the 
passage  of  many  caravans,  we  struck  into  it,  and  for 
half  an  hour  or  so  had  nothing  but  the  tall  grass  for 
prospect.  Beside  us  marched  Jose,  who  chattered  about 
all  sorts  of  things — he  was  a  famous  story-teller — and 
amongst  others  related  the  history  of  a  crocodile  of  the 


I  58  West  and  Central  Africa. 

Cuanza  (a  'personal  acquaintance)  which  he  asserted,  was 
so  old  that  he  had  had  time  to  devour  more  than  a 
hundred  persons.  A  small  forest  grew  out  of  his  back, 
and  when  at  length  he  was  killed,  there  were  found  in 
his  inside  not  only  such  "unconsidered  trifles"  as 
bracelets,  hatchets,  benches,  and  what  not,  but  a  power- 
ful fetish,  to  which  this  wonderful  crocodile  owed  the 
advantage  of  selecting  his  victims  ! 

Capulca,  who  was  listening  to  the  story,  here  put  in 
his  word,  and  said  that  he  knew  of  a  special  remedy, 
viz.,  that  of  a  certain  herb  which,  on  being  well  chewed 
and  thrown  into  the  river,  was  sufficient  "  to  do.  the  busi- 
ness "  of  every  crocodile  that  ever  swam  in  it,  and  he 
only  wondered  it  was  not  used;  and  then  flying  off  at 
a  tangent,  he  gave  us  a  dissertation  upon  a  novel 
cosmogony,  which  made  the  firmament  composed  of 
stone  and  the  stars  of  mica  (or  according  to  his  phrase, 
of  "  that  stuff  that  sparkles  J'),  and  much  more  to  the 
same  effect,  when  there  suddenly  came  in  view  on  the 
south-western  horizon  a  long  row  of  houses. 

It  was  Duque  de  Braganga,  the  outpost  we  had  left 
some  months  before. 

As  we  approached  it  all  the  incidents  that  had  occurred 
in  the  interim  came  rushing  on  our  minds  with  a 
fidelity  that  made  them  appear  as  if  they  were  the  events 
of  yesterday.  The  torrid  heats,  the  desert  lands  through 
which  we  had  so  painfully  plodded,  the  agonizing  pains 
that  acute  fever  had  inflicted  upon  us,  the  incessant  fears 
that  haunted  us,  the  resolution  to  give  up  our  further 
march  northward,  the  hunger  and  thirst  wherewith  we 
were  alike  assailed,  all  returned  in  consecutive  order  to 
our  memory  at  sight  of  the  fortress  which  had  witnessed 
our  departure. 

Happier  thoughts,  however,  soon  banished  these  sad 


A  Railway  in  Petto.  159 

and  gloomy  ones.  We  recalled  to  mind  the  charming 
little  dinner  of  our  old  friend  Silverio,  and  the  recollec- 
tion of  those  delicious  fowls  and  appendages  made  us 
quicken  our  march  and  infused  fresh  vigour  into  our 
limbs. 

We  are  afraid  our  readers  will  accuse  us  of  dwelling 
far  too  often  and  with  most  undignified  unction  upon 
our  victuals ;  but  really  they  must  bear  in  mind  the 
great  inconvenience  attending  bad  food  in  long  journeys 
in  the  interior  of  Africa,  an  inconvenience  only  surpassed 
by  having  nothing  to  eat  at  all,  before  they  condemn  us 
too  severely ;  and  as  we  candidly  confess  that  we  are  not 
as  indifferent  to  these  matters  as,  shall  we  say  an  Anglo- 
Saxon?  we  could  not  help  feeling  a  stir  within  our 
inmost  depths  at  the  proximity  to  a  well- served  and 
civilized  table. 

But  we  were  still  at  some  distance  from  the  desired 
goal,  and  our  impatience  made  it  appear  to  recede  from 
us  the  nearer  we  approached.  How  different,  we 
thought,  to  this  toilsome  march,  where  Jose  and  his 
companions  are  puffing  and  perspiring  beneath  their 
loads,  may  be  the  approach  to  the  little  town  within 
the  course  of  time,  when  the  voice  of  a  railway  porter 
on  the  arrival  of  a  train,  shall  echo  from  the  neighbouring 
rocks,  "  "Fzmrfa-ia-Cassanda,  fifteen  minutes  for  refresh- 
ments !  " 

The  idea  amused  us,  and  we  even  discussed  the  best 
spot  for  the  erection  of  the  station  of  our  imaginary  line, 
when  we  at  length  reached  the  bank  of  the  Lu-calla. 
We  had  given  notice  of  our  approach,  and  found  old 
Silverio  waiting  our  arrival  with  an  ancient  canoe;  it 
was  good  enough  not  to  founder  on  its  way,  but  to  convey 
in  safety  to  the  opposite  shore  the  whole  of  our  caravan, 
composed  at  that  time  of  the  following  individuals  : — 


i6o 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


Capulca,  cook  .  .  . 
Catraio,  assistant  .  . 
Filippe,  servant  . 
Mupei,  servant 
Capenda,  servant  .  . 
Quissongo  .  .  .  . 
Master  Jose,  guide  . 
Jose  (the  elder)  .  . 
Son  of  the  Quissongo 

Liando    

Jose 

Otubo      

Jimbe 

Quimbundo        .     .     . 

Capuia 

Quimbundo  (lad)  .     . 
Ganga  .     . 

Gando 

Somma 

Fortuna 

Muto.     .     .     .     .     . 

N'jila 

Jamba     .     .     . 
Quissongo         .     .     . 
Qu  in  gando        .     . 
Capolo    .    '.      .      .     . 
N'gila  (lad) .     .     .     . 

Gumbe 

N'jamba  (the  elder)  . 

Sabi 

Bonga      . 

Calumbo       . 

Gando  (old)      .      .     . 

Quieu 

Cassanda  .     . 

Domingos  (N'jinji)     . 

Canguia 

Cambuta       .      .     .      . 
Narciso  (old)    .     .     . 


BIRTB  PLACE. 


Benguella. 


Mulondo. 
Peinde. 

Bibe. 
Luanda. 

Bibe. 
Lunda. 

>y 
Tunda  and  Cell i. 


Cassange. 


Back  again. 
<_> 


161 


1 

NAMES. 

BIRTHPLACE. 

Tamby    .....     t     .......     . 

Mangumbala  (boy) .      .      •     . 

Antonio 

Cassange. 

55 
55 
5  5 

55 
55 

55 

Caconda. 

Luanda. 

Bihe. 

Sambo. 
Dombe. 

Joaquini 

Chico . 

Antonio  (Undalla) 

i    Quituniba  (old) 

13euibe 

Leinba 

Qnissonfo's  wife 

Capulca's  wife.     ....     ?     .....     . 

Catraio's  wife 

Haying  reached  the  further  bank  without  accident,  we 
made  at  once,  in  high  good-humour,  for  our  former  en- 
campment, whilst  Silverio  gaye  the  necessary  orders  for 
the  coveted  dinner. 


COSMETORNIS    VEXILLARIUS    (QUIMBAMBA). 


VOL.    II. 


M 


1 62  West  and  Central  Africa. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Duque  de  Braganca,  its  importance  and  fertility — Dinner-time  again — 
A  Sova  god-father — African  children  and  some  remarks  concerning 
them  —  Infants  and  adnlts— Explanations  concerning  our  route — A 
parallel  and  the  cardinal  points — An  alarm— The  encampment  in 
flames — Anxious  moments — Thec  papers  of  the  explorers  and  the 
ammunition  of  the  expedition — Carriers  and  thieves — Things  might 
have  been  worse — Otubo  and  our  clumsy  assistant — "  From  sources 
small  what  great  events  may  spring  " — The  bi-sonde  and  the  last 
night  of  the  month  of  July. 

"  One,  two,  three  .  .  .  now,"  cried  one  of  us,  while, 
drawn  up  in  a  vast  circle,  half  the  population  of  the  Duque 
observed  the  remarkable  proceedings,  making  their  own 
comments  the  while. 

One  of  the  chiefs  of  the  expedition  was  determining 
the  horary  by  the  height  of  the  sun,  having  the  abba  in 
position;  while  the  other  explorer,  squatting  down  near 
a  trunk,  was  counting  by  the  chronometer  the  seconds 
as  they  ran. 

The  observer  was  shortly  after  heard  to  exclaim, — 

"  Thirty-three  degrees,  forty-three  hundredths." 

To  which  came  the  answer,— 

"  Three  hours,  twenty-seven  minutes,  one  second  and 
no  thirds."     This  was  followed  on  the  other  side  by, — 

"  Azimuth,  three  hundred  and  fifty-nine,  and  five- 
tenths,  north  by  east;   day  30th  of  June,  1879." 

Then,  gathering  up  the  instruments,  the  crowd  dis- 
persed,   retiring    in  groups  and    explaining  what    they 


Ditque  dc  Bragangd,  1 6 


j 


had  seen  in  their  own  way;  one  man,  whom  we  over- 
heard, saying, — 

"  They're  looking  through  that  tube  to  see  the  countries 
they're  going  to." 

It  was  consoling,  after  so  many  vicissitudes,  to  find 
ourselves  in  a  peaceful  and  hospitable  country,  into 
which  we  seemed  to  have  been  whisked  by  some  friendly 
enchanter,  and  where  the  delights  of  idleness  and  the 
table  of  friend  Silverio  were  likely,  between  them,  to 
detain  us  for  some  time. 

Duque  de  Bragan^a  is  the  most  north-easterly  of  all 
the  Portuguese  strongholds.  In  a  geographical  position 
determined  by  the  following  co-ordinates,  viz.,  latitude 
8°  57'  16"  S.,  longitude  16°  10'  00"  E.  of  Greenwich, 
height  3478  ft.,  it  presents  in  the  way  of  declination,  incli- 
nation, and  horizontal  component  respectively  the  figures 
18°  50',  34°  58',  and  6,85. 

Seated  on  a  treeless  plateau,  near  the  right  bank  of 
the  river  Lu-calla,  the  chief  place  of  the  district  is  com- 
posed of  an  ample  fortress  made  of  bricks,  with  loopholes, 
parapets,  and  a  fosse  in  bad  order;  it  is  surrounded  by 
a  couple  of  dozen  dwellings,  or  thereabouts,  among  which 
figures  as  the  most  remarkable,  the  residence  of  the 
chefe,  situated  on  the  eastern  side. 

Its  establishment  dates  from  the  time  that  the  Govern- 
ment despatched  an  expedition  to  this  part  of  the 
continent  for  the  purpose  of  repressing  the  excesses  of 
the  native  Jingas,  who,  in  their  incursions,  threatened  the 
district  of  Ambaca.  Its  commercial  dealings  are  almost 
nil.  A  few  sacks  of  ginguba,  some  calabashes  of  oil  and 
bundles  of  tacula  are  exchanged  in  the  course  of  the  year, 
but  as  to  any  trading-houses  of  mark,  we  looked  for 
them  in  vain. 

It  may,  however,   be  suggested  that  probably  with  a 

m  2 


1 64  West  and  Central  Africa. 

little  effort  and  with  less  military  preponderance  the 
territory  might  be  turned  into  a  vast  agricultural  district, 
as  we  saw  growing  tobacco,  cotton,  and  ginguba,  and 
further  north,  in  the  Danje,  the  sugar-cane  of  a  colossal 
size  and  splendid  appearance,  as  well  as  other  products. 

The  district  of  the  Duque,  far  from  the  centre  of 
Government,  with  some  fifty  to  sixty  outposts,  was  con- 
sidered, when  not  the  seat  of  active  opera tious,  as  was 
recently  the  case  against  the  Caculo-Cabacas,  a  mediocre 
field  of  exploitation  by  certain  military  officers  who, 
moved  by  a  spirit  of  cupidity  and  utterly  oblivious  of  the 
dignity  of  their  cloth,  committed  the  most  unheard  of 
extortions,  both  in  the  recovery  of  the  tithes  (now 
happily  abolished)  and  in  their  demands  on  the  small 
Jinga  proprietors.  We  were  informed  that  not  so  very 
lon^  a^o  an  unfortunate  Sova  received  an  intimation, 
through  a  mere  private  of  mobiles,  for  the  payment  of  a 
certain  fine  in  the  shape  of  cattle.  As  he  refused  to 
accede  to  the  claim,  a  detachment,  swollen  by  a  little 
army  of  volunteers,  was  sent  off  under  the  command  of 
a  subaltern,  who,  in  a  single  raid,  carried  off  one  hundred 
and  eighty  head  of  cattle  composing  the  Sova's  fortune. 
The  consequence  was  the  retreat  of  the  despoiled  chief 
into  the  Jinga,  where  he  had  been  preceded  by  others, 
similarly  situated,  and  the  whole  district  became  depopu- 
lated and  ruined. 

This  digression  is,  however,  apart  from  our  mission, 
which  has  nothing  to  do  with  subjects  of  this  nature; 
we  merely  mention  the  circumstance  here  because  it  has 
given  rise  to  what  we  hold  to  be  unjust  and  painful  accu- 
sations against  the  Portuguese  central  Government, 
which  was  most  probably  ignorant  of  the  whole  affair. 

The  lands  now  under  review  are  of  great  fertility ;  the 
climate  is  to   a  certain  extent  salubrious,  and  would  be 


Dinner-time.     .  165 

more  so  but  for  the  too  great  proximity  to  the  river, 
whose  banks,  that  are  frequently  inundated,  constitute 
hot-beds  of  infection  ;  on  the  other  hand  cases  of  decisive 
fever,  that  are  so  common  on  the  sea-board,  are  far  less 
prevalent  here.  At  the  period  of  our  sojourn,  a  fresh 
south-easterly  wind  drove  across  the  clear  blue  sky  a  few 
flecks  of  white  cloud,  and  cooled  the  temperature  during* 
the  hours  of  its  greatest  elevation. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  district  are  a  mixture  of  Jingas, 
Ambaquistas,  and  a  few  natives  of  the  Bondo,  who  with 
the  soldiers  of  Loanda  have  become  leavened  into  one 
mass,  and  constitute  the  existing  families  who  devote 
their  time  to  the  cultivation  of  small  farms,  whence  they 
derive  their  daily  sustenance. 

We  had  jotted  down  the  foregoing  remarks  on  a  fresh 
page  of  our  diary  (for,  thank  heaven,  our  paper,  at  least, 
never  failed  us),  when  we  were  interrupted  by  a  message 
from  the  chefe  that  "  Dinner  was  served." 
I  It  seemed  as  if  it  were  always  dinner-time  in  this  hospi- 
table establishment ;  indeed,  so  bent  did  our  kind  host 
appear  upon  making  us  forget  the  many  times  we  had  gone 
without  such  a  meal,  that  we  were  compelled  to  take  no 
end  of  walking  exercise  to  do  justice  to  the  good  fare. 

The  repast  was  like  many  joyous  ones  at  which  we 
have  assisted.  Each  played  his  part  in  a  very  praise- 
worthy manner,  and  the  conversation  was  gay  or  sober, 
grave  or  joyous  as  the  subject  varied,  now  turning  upon 
the  comparative  merits  of  Yacca  and  the  Duque,  now 
interrupted  by  a  burst  of  laughter  at  some  witty  or 
humorous  remark. 

"  Nothing  can  well  be  worse  than  a  life  in  those 
lovely  woods  !  "  exclaimed  one,  as  he  inhaled  the  savoury 
steam  which  issued  from  a  dish  of  pirao,  flanked  by  an 
equally  steaming  fowl  that  had  just  been   placed  upon 


1 66  West  and  Central  Africa. 

the  table;  and  then  continued  in  a  sententious  tone, 
"  If  Adam  were  as  hard  set  in  his  paradise  as  we 
frequently  were  in  ours>  he  must  have  been  rather 
glad  than  otherwise  to  be  driven  out  of  it." 

While  enjoying  ourselves  and  chatting  in  this  fashion 
there  walked  into  the  room  the  strangest  of  figures,  a 
tall,  boriy  African,  wrapped  in  an  ample  gingham  cloth, 
wearing  on  his  head  so  monstrous  a  military  hat  that 
the  one  which,  adorned  the  brow  of  the  august  Jagga, 
Cambollo-Cangonga,  wduld  have  sunk  into  insignificance 
by  comparison^ 

The  sight  of  this  apparition  made  us  suspend  opera- 
tions and  sit  back  in  our  chairs  with  surprise,  when  our 
worthy  amphytrion  gave  us  the  key  to  the  enigma. 

"  It  is  my  godfather,"  ]  he  explained,  "  whom  the 
baptism  of  a  daughter  has  connected  with  our  family." 

Continuing  our  inspection  of  the  visitor  with  more 
interest  after  this  announcement,  we  ascertained  that 
within  that  variegated  covering  stood  a  Sova,  whose 
name,  as  we  also  learned,  was  F^m^-ia-T'chirimbimbi 
who,  with  a  most  gracious  smile,  took  off  his  huge  hat 
and  shook  us  both  by  the  hand. 

We  could  not  remove  our  eyes  from  him;  we  had 
seen  a  good  many  Sovas,  but  we  had  never  beheld  a 
Sova  godfather  before.  He  sat  down  with  us  to  table, 
and  clinked  glasses  in  the  most  natural  manner  possible, 
so  that,  after  mentally  drawing  a  comparison  between 
this  well-behaved  individual  and  the  many  savage 
specimens  of  the  genus   "  native  "  we  had  met  with  on 

1  I  have  used  the  word  godfather  in  order  to  retain  tne  authors' 
pleasant  witticism,  although  the  degree  of  relationship  conferred  by 
the  Portuguese  title  compadre,  and  which  is  equally  applicable  to  the 
man  who  acts  as  sponsor  and  the  man  whose  child  is  held  at  the  bap- 
tismal font,  is  unknown  to  us. — A.  E. 


A  Sova  Godfather. 


67 


Our  travels,  one  of  us  could  not  help  exclaiming  to  our 
host, — 

"  Eureka !  the  way  to  civilize  Africa  is  to  turn  all  the 
Sovas  into  godfathers  !  " 

Our  attention  had  been  so  taken  up  with  the  new-comer 
we  did  not  at  first  observe  that  with  him  had  entered  at 
least  a  dozen  young  gamins   (whether  the  offspring  of 


A    SOVA    GODFATHER. 


T'chirimbimbi  or  otherwise  we  did  not  know)  until  the 
hubbub  the  urchins  made  prevented  the  possibility  of  our 
ignoring  them  any  longer.  The  visitation  reminded  us 
that  we  had  not  hitherto  made  any  special  mention  of 
young  Africa,  and  we  therefore  took  the  earliest  oppor- 
tunity of  repairing  the  omission  by  entering  in  our  diary 


1 68  West  and  Central  Africa. 

that  very  evening  the  following  few  particulars  concern- 
ing them. 

African  children  are,  beyond  all  compare,  more 
intelligent  and  more  agreeable  than  African  adults. 
Little  fellows  of  five  years  old  often  do  such  clever 
things  and  display  such  an  amount  of  reasoning  power  as 
to  cause  both  wonder  and  admiration.  Gaiety  and  fun 
are  inherent  to  them,  and  in  this  particular  they  are 
quite  on  a  par  with  their  European  compeers.  Quite  the 
reverse  of  eastern  children,  so  taciturn  and  melancholy, 
with  that  yellow  skiu  which  gives  them  an  air  of  bilious- 
ness and  suffering;  the  little  nigger,  with  his.  glossy 
black  hide  and  dispropOrtioned  stomach,  runs,  jumps, 
and  exercises  his  lungs  from  sunrise  to  sunset. 

Receiving  no  spiritual  training  at  the  hands  of  an 
ascetic,  who  oftentimes  fills  the  imagination  of  a  child 
with  stupid,  senseless  fears*  the  youth  knows  neither 
fear  nor  superstition ;  even  as  regards  the  fetishism 
prevalent  amongst  them,  he  apprehends  little  more  of  it 
beyond  the  tiny  horn  or  rag  which  the  mother  hangs 
round  his  neck  to  preserve  him  from  death. 

But  in  proportion  as  he  passes  from  the  state  of 
childhood  to  that  of  adolescence,  these  characteristics 
become  modified ;  he  loses  his  candour  3  and  becomes  sly* 
distrustful,  covetous,  and  above  all,  stupid. 

Whether  it  be  that  in  the  later  days*  having  his  mind 
bent  on  the  mere  satisfaction  of  material  necessities,  the 
negro  does  not  exercise  his  intelligence  and  that  from 
such  apathetic  state  arises  a  quasi  atrophy  or  brutishness, 
or  otherwise,  we  cannot  say,  but  the  fact  is  undoubted, 
that  the  adult  is  more  stupid  than  the  child,  and  the  old 
man  is  stupider  still.  It  is  probable  that  the  outrageous 
habits  of  alcohol-drinking  and  hemp-smoking  have  much 
to  do  with  bringing  about  this  result. 


Yo  it  ng  Africa .  169 

With  the  mulatto  the  above  remarks  do  not  so  well 
apply;  the  men  do  not  become  so  brutified,  and  when 
young  they  more  nearly  resemble  the  Orientals.  They 
are  dull  as  children,  less  intelligent  and  expert.  They  do 
not  gambol  and  play  like  the  little  black  fellows,  and  if 
by  chance  a  mulatto  child  should  appear  among  a  troop 
of  young  niggers,  he  is  always  ill  at  ease,  and  as  if 
apprehensive  of  their  companionship. 

When  the  mulatto  comes  to  man's  estate,  if  a  superior 
education  do  not  dissipate  his  deep  prejudices,  he  seems 
always  bent  beneath  the  weight  of  an  incurable  disap- 
pointment. He  looks  upon  the  least  ambiguous  phrase 
as  a  slur  upon  his  own  person,  and  every  joke  an  insult. 
He  considers  himself,  without  reasonable  cause,  to 
belong  to  an  inferior  race.  He  takes  for  granted  that  he 
is  despised,  and,  thrown  upon  himself,  seeks  out  the 
elements  of  active,  intellectual  labour,  which  furnish 
perhaps  a  means  to  preserve  his  mental  faculties. 

But  nothing  of  all  this  belongs  to  the  negro ;  as  a 
3'oungster  he  is  gay  and  happy  as  a  bird ;  as  an  adult 
he  is  emphatically  what  the  French  call  bete.  He  is  not 
a  bad  fellow  in  the  main,  and  whatever  really  evil  and 
vicious  tendencies  he  may  have,  as  a  rule,  only  come  out 
late  in  life. 

Having  thus  recorded  our  judgment  upon  the  blacks, 
little  and  big,  a  judgment  which,  as  being  formulated 
during  the  digestion  of  our  dinner  of  the  30th,  may 
perhaps  be  disputed  by  those  who  have  greater  expe- 
rience than  ourselves,  we  began  to  put  things  in  order 
with  a  view  to  a  speedy  departure  from  Duque  de 
Braganca. 

As  it  is  not  impossible  that  some  among  our  readers, 
moved  by  a  not  unnatural  curiosity,  may  inquire,  "  How 
is  it  that  these  men  who  have  more  than  once  put  for- 


1 70  West  and  Central  Africa. 

ward  as  a  motive  for  separations,  and  special  marches, 
their  desire  to  enlarge  the  area  of  their  labours,  should 
have  returned  to  Duque,  where  they  had  already  been, 
instead  of  selecting  another  route  on  their  way  to  the 
Ouanza  ?  " 

To  which,  with  all  respect  for  the  opinion  insinuated  in 
the  question,  we  beg  leave  to  reply, — ■ 

When  in  March,  1879,  we  arrived  at  the  district  of  the 
Duque  we  found  ourselves  lightened  of   a  good  part  of 
our  belongings,  inasmuch  as  the  calculation  we  made  in 
Cassange  to  reach  parallel  5°,  travelling  directly  north- 
wards by  the  east  bank  of  the  Cuango,  was  not  applic- 
able to  our  altered  circumstances,  under  which,  although 
journeying  westward,  we  had    still  to  go   over  about  as 
much  ground   to    reach   the    5th   parallel.     It   became, 
consequently,  a  matter  of  moment  to  make  up  at  least 
the  void  in  our  expenditure  caused  by  our  journey  from 
the    Cuango   to   the    Duque.     Having  requisitioned  the 
authorities,    we    waited    and   waited,    but    as    no  goods 
appeared   and   the    season    was   rapidly   advancing,    we 
determined   to  go    on   without   them — in   order   not  to 
remain  for  an  indefinite  period  at  the  station— and  use 
all  possible  economy  upon    the    road.      But    when    we 
reached  the  territory  of  Yacca  our  apprehensions   began 
to  be  confirmed,  for  though  we  had  obtained  a  few  goods 
from  Sr.  Figueiredo  (whose  name  has  been  previously 
mentioned),   the  only  person  in  the  place   who  had  any 
to  dispose  of,  we  saw  our  resources  melting  away  to  such 
an  extent  that  we  had  the  prospect  before  us  of  absolute 
penury,  joined  to  the  sickness  from  which  ourselves  and 
followers    were   suffering.     It  was   this  state  of  things 
which   prevented  our   visiting    Muene    Puto    Cassongo, 
from  the   fear  that  we  should  be  unable  to  fee  him  in 
proportion  to  his  expectations ;  and  it  also  had  much  to 


The  24I/1  July.  171 

do  with  putting  a  stopper  to  our  further  journey  north- 
wards till  we  reached  the  Zonibo  track.  There  was  con- 
sequently no  choice  but  to  return  to  the  Duque  de 
Braganca,  where  we  knew  resources  might  be  had ;  and 
our  itinerary  southwards  along  the  Cauali,  became  there- 
fore subordinate  to  the  position  in  which  we  stood  and 
which  these  explanations,  we  trust,  have  made  clear. 

The  month  of  July  found  us  recovered  in  health  and 
spirits,  and  we  were  only  waiting  for  the  19th  to  pass 
over,  in  order  to  witness  on  that  day  a  partial  eclipse  of 
the  sun,  and  convey  the  results  of  the  observations  to 
Europe. 

The  goods  were  received,  and  those  carriers  of  the 
interior,  designated  in  the  previous  chapter  under  the 
description  of  Cassange,  were  paid  and  discharged  as 
being  no  longer  required.  We  then  busied  ourselves 
with  packing  our  merchandise  in  a  convenient  form  so 
as  to  be  enabled  to  take  a  fresh  departure  at  the  earliest 
hour.  Events,  however,  were  preparing  that  were  to 
add  another  instance  to  the  many  presented  by  this 
changeable  world  that  the  best  matured  plans  may  from 
one  moment  to  another  be  upset,  and  that  the  man  who 
boasts  of  affluence  at  one  minute  may  the  next  be  reduced 
almost  to  beggary. 

The  24th  of  July,  a  magnificent  day,  the  anniversary 
in  the  capital  of  our  dear  country  of  the  advent  of  liberty, 
passed  over,  and  evening  came  on  in  all  her  beauty. 
The  national  flag  flying  over  the  fortress,  the  soldiers  in 
their  best  uniforms,  gave  to  the  little  place  an  air  of 
gala,  showing  that  though  far  from  the  metropolis,  and 
distant  from  the  country  which  has  covered  with  her 
glorious  standard  millions  of  square  miles  of  the  globe, 
her  children  in  her  remote  colonies  were  participating  in 
the  just  gaiety  of  their  brethren  in  Europe,  . 


172  West  and  Central  Africa. 

We  were  in  our  usual  place,  our  legs  under  the  chefe's 
table,  sipping  our  coffee,  and  doing  our  best  to  drum 
into  the  thick  head  of  a  black  psez^o-captain  of  the 
garde-mobile  the  definition  of  a  parallel,  so  as  to  make 
him  understand  that  though  we  had  not  been  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Zaire  we  had  reached  the  parallel  of  the 
mouth.  The  unhappy  man  was  one  of  those  beings  who 
are  incapable  of  comprehending  the  axiomatic  principle  : 
the  whole  is  greater  than  any  of  its  parts,  for  the  simple 
reason  that  there  were  foxes  ivho  had  tails  bigger  than 
their  bodies,  and  he  therefore  exclaimed  in  an  angry  tone, 
as  if  he  thought  we  were  poking  fun  at  him, —  . 

"  It's  of  no  use  your  telling  me  that ;  how  could  you 
be  at  the  Zaire  if  you  weren't  there?  It's  all*  a  mis- 
take;" and  he  added  by  way  of  argument,  "It  once 
happened  to  me  to  have  to  march  south — here  he  pointed 
to  the  east — and  I  marched  on  and  on  till  I  found  my- 
self at  last  due  north  !  That  must  have  been,  of  course, 
the  way  with  you,  and  that  was  how  you  made  the 
mistake." 

With  most  exemplary  patience  we  answered  equally  of 
course  that  it  was  not  so ;  nor  indeed  was  such  a  thing 
at  all  probable  with  men  like  ourselves,  who  were  sailors 
to  boot,  and  that  if  he  had  only  had  by  him  some  one 
who  knew  how  to  box  the  compass  be  would  have  been 
enabled  to  discern  that  it  was  owing  to  his  confused 
notion  of  the  cardinal  points  that  he  made  that  remark- 
able journey. 

Any  further  discussion  of  the  subject  was  cut  short 
by  loud  shouts  for  help,  and  an  alarm  sounded  by  the 
bugles  of  the  detachment,  which  made  us  spring  to  our 
feet  in  hot  haste,  and  rush  to  the  door  where  the  cry  of 
"  Fire  !  fire  !  "  was  resounding  on  all  sides. 

Confused  masses  of  people  were  rushing  across  the 


The  Camp  in  Flames.  \  /$ 

little  piazza  in  the  direction  of  our  camp,  screaming  as 
if  they  were  possessed.  We  meanwhile  stood  irresolute, 
looking  first  at  Silverib,  then  at  the  captain,  as  if  either 
of  them  could  give  any  explanation  of  the  uproar ;  when 
we  heard  several  of  our  carriers  shouting  our  own  names. 

Rushing  out,  we  were  horror-struck  after  going  a  few 
paces  to  find  that  it  was  our  own  encampment  in  flames  ! 
Waves  of  furious  fire,  fanned  by  a  strong  south-easter 
were  igniting  one  after  another  and  eagerly  devouring 
the  dry  wooden  huts  with  their  grass  roofs,  till  there 
appeared  a  sea  of  angry,  roaring,  crackling  flame,  from 
which  flew  into  the  darkness  of  night  showers  of  brilliant 
sparks. 

Our  trouble  was  extreme  ;  and  as  we  rushed  panting 
to  the  spot,  we  figured  to  ourselves  the  loss  of  all  our 
labours,  and  the  destruction  of  charts,  maps,  diaries,  in- 
struments, everything  which  we  held  almost  as  dearly  as 
our  lives.  We  had  but  one  thought  and  one  cry,  and  in 
a  voice  broken  by  exertion  and  emotion  we  exclaimed, 
"  Save  the  books  !  " 

Who  shall  say  what  we  suffered  at  that  supreme  mo- 
ment !  How  can  we  convey  to  our  readers  the  terror 
and  the  affliction  of  two  poor  men  who  beheld,  as  it  were, 
the  annihilation  within  a  few  minutes  of  time  of  the 
hopes  and  aspirations  of  twenty-four  months  of  toilsome 
effort,  and  who  had  often  been  sustained  and  saved  solely 
by  the  smiling  prospect  of  a  distant  commendation  of 
their  labours,  which  was  now  to  be  snatched  from  their 
grasp  ! 

In  a  fit  almost  of  despair  we  dashed  into  the  burn- 
ing enclosure,  where  the  suffocating  heat  and  frightful 
vibration  of  the  air  made  breathing  all  but  impossible. 

We  made  our  way  to  our  own  huts  to  find  them  two 
bare  skeletons  dropping  piece  by  piece  beneath  the  action 


1 74  West  and  Central  Afru 


rzca, 


of  the  expiring  flames  ;  the  others  were  already  heaps  of 
ashes,  and  the  destructive  element  had  broken  through 
the  outer  palisade  and  was  seeking  fresh  material  to 
devour. 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  scene  of  ruin  lay  a  con- 
fused heap  of  trunks,  cases,  bales  and  parcels,  some 
partially  burnt,  others  just  catching  fire,  conveyed  thither 
in  haste  and  thrown  pell-mell  to  save  them,  if  possible, 
from  destruction. 

The  peril  was  intense.  From  all  points  loaded  arms 
went  off  as  they  came  in  contact  with  the  flames ;  ex- 
plosive balls  blew  up  in  our  immediate  vicinity,  and  cases 
of  ammunition  flying  into  splinters  threatened  the  lives 
of  all  around. 

Amid  the  heap  of  baggage  we  were  each  endeavouring 
to  discover  our  respective  trunks  that  could  not  at  first 
be  found,  and  whereof  one  was  afterwards  extracted 
from  the  ashes  with  some  of  the  books  that  had  been  a 
prey  to  the  flames. 

It  was  whilst  we  were  thus  engaged  that  we  perceived 
dodging  in  and  out  the  smoke  and  fire  various  black 
figures  whose  movements  struck  us  as  suspicious ;  for 
when  we  approached  they  disappeared  into  the  darkness. 
Capulca  it  was  who  explained  the  mystery,  and  which 
was  of  a  nature  to  confirm  the  opinion  we  had  formed 
from  experience  of  how  little  trust  was  to  be  placed  in 
the  men  of  the  interior.  Whilst  we,  with  half  a  dozen 
faithful  followers,  were  striving  our  very  utmost  to  save 
the  papers  and  scientific  material  of  the  expedition, 
Otubo,  instead  of  keeping  watch  over  the  scattered  goods, 
was  abstracting  pieces  of  cloth  and  everything  else  he 
could  lay  hands  on,  and  removing  them  with  the  aid  of  a 
handful  of  his  Ban-sumbi  comrades  and  a  few  scamps 
of  the  place  to  the  neighbouring  wood ! 


Anxieties.  175 

Enraged  beyond  measure  at  this  shameful  spoliation, 
we  gave  chase  after  him  in  order  to  inflict  a  severe 
thrashing  on  his  black  hide,  when,  to  our  astonishment, 
we  came  full  butt  against  another  marauder,  in  the  shape 
of  our  captain  of  the  cardinal  points,  who,  after  appro- 
priating a  piece  of  valuable  cloth  in  the  south,  was 
scuttling  off  with  it  to  the  north,  when  he  was  stopped 
by  an  equally  honest  gentleman  who  disputed  possession 
of  the  property.  They  both  took  to  their  heels  before 
we  could  lay  hands  on  them,  and  left  us  to  the  pleasant 
reflection  that  we  were  in  a  perfect  colony  of  rascals. 

Returning  to  the  scene  of  the  disaster,  we  continued 
to  order  the  removal  of  the  remnant  of  our  property  to 
the  residence  of  the  chefe,  Captain  Silverio,  who,  suffering 
from  rheumatism,  was  unable  to  give  any  active  assistance. 

It  was  eleven  o'clock  before  the  whole  of  this  painful 
episode  was  at  an  end  and  darkness  fell  upon  the 
scene.  We  stood  alone  and  sad  at  heart,  on  the  spot 
which  a  few  hours  before  represented  our  quilombo.  The 
place  was  nothing  now  but  a  field  of  smoking  ashes, 
from  which  rose  the  distorted  carcasses  of  one  or  two 
of  the  huts,  mere  black  poles  exhibiting  here  and  there 
a  patch  of  smouldering  fire.  Scattered  about  and  borne 
hither  and  thither  by  the  wind,  were  fragments  of  half- 
consumed  paper,  which  we  feared  might  be  portions  of 
maps,  drawings,  or  important  data  procured,  we  only 
knew,  with  how  much  toil !  Daylight  alone  could  tell  us 
the  extent  of  our  loss ;  and  as  soon  as  it  appeared  we  set 
to  work  to  draw  up  something  like  a  list  of  our  late 
possessions. 

By  one  of  those  accidents,  which  we  are  too  apt  under 
such  circumstances  to  describe  as  providential,  we,  who 
were  accustomed  after  our  labours  of  the  day  simply  to 
collect  our  papers  and  place  them  on  top  of  a  trunk,  so 


176  West  and  Cenfral  Africa. 

as  to  have  them  ready  to  our  hand  for  night-work,  had. 
on  this  particular  occasion,  replaced  the  greater  part 
within  the  box.  Still,  a  good  many,  that  we  wanted  for 
constant  use,  were  left  outside ;  such  as  the  register 
of  meteorological  observations  (of  one  of  whose  leaves 
we  exhibit  in  this  volume  a  facsimile) ,  sketch-books 
(in  which  great  ravage  was  made),  a  manuscript  book  of 
co-ordinates,  and  other  similar  records. 

We  discovered  that  of  the  goods  we  had  recently  pur- 
chased some  of  the  bales  were  burnt  at  the  ends  and 
others  had  disappeared  altogether.  Beads  and  similar 
articles  were  dispersed  and  lost,  guns  were  carbonized, 
our  own  body-clothing  so  diminished  and  despoiled,  that 
all  that  was  left  us  were  the  things  which  we  -actually 
had  on,  and  an  ancient  hat  with  the  crown  stove  in. 
We  could  not  help  thinking  as  we  looked  at  each  other  in 
broad  daylight,  with  our  disordered  beards,  our  hands  and 
faces  grimed  with  ashes,  our  unkempt  hair,  part  hanging 
in  elfin  locks,  the  other  standing  on  end  beneath  our 
helmets,  that  we  looked  amazingly  like  those  doubtful 
cavaliers  who,  if  met  by  a  traveller  on  the  highway, 
would  cause  him  involuntarily  to  seek  the  handle  of  his 
revolver,  to  be  prepared  for  all  emergencies. 

It  was  only  after  a  day  visit  to  our  late  camp  that  we 
appreciated  to  the  full  the  extent  of  our  misfortune. 
Catching  Otubo,  on  our  arrival,  we  administered  to  him 
at  once  a  sound  thrashing,  and  succeeded  in  making  him 
disclose  the  places  where  he  had  hidden  away  the  stolen 
property,  which  amounted  to  the  trifle  of  twenty  odd 
pieces ;  besides  smaller  articles.  We  then  set  about 
hunting  among  the  ashes  and  picking  up  the  fragments 
of  paper,  many  of  which  had  travelled  a  mile  away  from 
the  scene  of  the  conflagration. 

How  frightfully  destructive  an    element    fire  can  be 


Cause  of  the  Conflagration.  177 

was  never  brought  so  closely  home  to  us  before.  Our 
meteorological  observatory  was  in  ruins ;  and  as  we 
raked  among  the  ashes  we  brought  to  light  the  re- 
mains of  an  aneroid  ;  a  watch  black  and  half  melted  ; 
thermometers  tubeless  ;  remnants  of  gaiters  ;  heels  and 
soles  of  boots,  whereof  the  upper  leathers  had  disap- 
peared ;  the  crowns  of  helmets  twisted  out  of  shape ; 
and,  sad  to  tell,  a  poor  eagle  that  we  kept  chained  in  a 
crib,  in  order  to  convey  it  to  Europe,  lying  roasted  at  the 
foot  of  the  pole  which  had  held  it  prisoner  ! 

Having  raked  about  and  searched  till  we  were  con- 
vinced that  no  more  remained  to  be  done,  we  returned 
to  the  residence  in  order  by  the  aid  of  the  fragments  of 
the  last  diaries  to  replace  as  far  as  possible  what  had 
been  lost,  and  try  and  discover  the  cause  of  the  fire. 
For  this  we  had  not  very  far  to  look,  and  though  we 
cursed  the  stupidity  to  which  it  was  due,  it  was  a  remote 
consolation  to  find  that  no  malice  dictated  it. 

Catraio,  that  most  clumsy  and  ill-starred  assistant, 
having  set  up  the  observatory  in  the  open  air,  con- 
jectured, from  a  peculiar  whispering  sound  that  issued 
from  one  of  the  huts,  and  from  a  bite  or  two  on  his  own 
proper  person,  that  a  band  of  warrior  ants  was  making 
an  attack  on  the  quilombo  in  that  direction. 

Wishing  to  ascertain  the  fact,  he  suddenly  bethought 
him  of  the  observatory  lantern,  and  taking  out  the  candle 
it  contained,  he  lighted  it  at  the  kitchen  fire,  and  pro- 
ceeded to  make  his  search. 

He  was  quite  correct  in  his  premises ;  there  were  the 
bi-soncle  sure  enough,  and  the  first  he  trod  upon  bit  him 
so  sharply  that  he  dropped  the  candle  and  fled.  In  fall- 
ing the  flame  caught  the  dry  grass,  and  the  wind  fanning 
it,  set  the  whole  place  in  a  blaze,  producing  the  results 
we  have  above  related. 

vol.  11.  n 


178  West  and  Central  Africa. 

During  the  whole  of  the  25th  of  the  month  the  ex- 
pedition was  in  course  of  re-organization.  If  our  resources 
were  of  the  meagrest  before  the  fire,  it  may  easily  be 
judged  how  scanty  they  were  after  it.  One  result  of  our 
altered  circumstances  was  the  abandonment  of  an  idea 
we  had  formed  to  go  back  to  the  Calunga  Luamba,  pro- 
ceed to  the  sources  of  the  Bengo,  in  the  territory  of 
Calandula,  and  thence  make  our  way  to  Ambaca. 

At  five  in  the  afternoon  we  held  a  council,  at  which 
it  was  resolved  to  leave  on  the  1st  of  August  by  the 
direct  route,  and  take  with  us  our  good  friend  Silverio, 
who,  having  sent  in  his  resignation  of  the  office  of  chefe, 
was  enabled,  by  the  arrival  of  his  substitute,  to  carry 
out  a  long  contemplated  plan  of  shifting  his  resilience  to 
the  Pedras  (rocks)  of  Pungo  N'dongo,  where  a  con- 
venient little  house  was  ready  to  receive  him  with  the 
modest  retiring  allowance  of  some  forty-five  dollars. 

With  the  last  stroke  of  midnight,  which  terminated 
the  month  of  July,  followed  by  the  alert  a  I  of  the  sen- 
tinels on  the  fortress,  that  was  echoed  and  re-echoed  in 
the  stillness  from  the  neighbouring  heights,  we  retired 
to  rest ;  prepared  at  daybreak  to  be  once  more  upon  the 
road. 


AFRICAN   STLK. 


179 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Final  departure  from  Duque  de  Braganca — One  of*  Jose's  stories — 
The  Lu-chilo  and  the  patrulhas — The  Ptyelus  olivaceus  —  Captain 
Silverio's  pets — The  Cosmetornis  vexillarius — Jose  has  another 
uncle — Samba-Cango,  the  Hango  and  the  Lu-calla — Brief  notice 
of  the  river,  conformation  of  the  land  and  vegetation — The  Cari- 
ombo  and  Porto  Real — Novel  rafts  and  ingenious  method  of 
propulsion — A  visit  to  Pamba,  and  a  few  remarks  thereon — A 
vegetable  giant — The  road  to  Pedras  JNegras — Jose  and  the  basalts 
— Native  silk — Pungo  N'Dongo,  its  aspect  and  constitution — 
Remarkable  impressions  on  the  rocks — Port  Hunga  and  its  orange 
trees — Philosophical  considerations  of  the  explorers — "In  the 
country  of  eyes,  the  blind  are  kings  "—  The  Caballo  cascade — The 
Cuanza,  obstacles,  fish,  cataracts — Brief  reflections  thereon — Ma- 
lange,  Calundo,  and  Pungo  N'Dongo. 

Before  quitting  the  fortress  for  good,  it  became  a 
matter  of  necessity  to  overhaul  the  whole  of  the  pack- 
ages that  constitute  a  traveller's  baggage  in  Africa, 
and  more  especially  those  relative  to  the  commissariat, 
the  defective  organization  of  which  causes  on  the  road 
the  most  serious  inconvenience.  Although  therefore 
the  old  captain,  with  the  patience  of  Job  and  the  will  of 
a  giant,  was  doing  his  best  to  get  things  into  trim,  we 
were  just  as  busy  ourselves  in  removing  goods  from  one 
place  to  another,  changing  porters,  securing  trunks,  and 
abandoning  our  temporary  camp. 

Meanwhile  all  sorts  of  discussions  were  Qfoinp-onin  the 
caravan.  Now  it  was  a  sheep  that  no  man  could  be 
found  willing  to  carry,  at   another  it  was   the  tij)oia  of 

n  2 


180  West  a7td  Central  Africa. 

Sr.  Silverio  that  "  stopped  the  way ;"  then  the  kitchen 
utensils  could  not  be  persuaded  to  stow  themselves  or  to 
be  stowed  away  in  the  mu-hamba  set  apart  for  them, 
because  that  incorrigible  Capulca,  wishing  to  travel  light 9 
had  stuffed  into  it  his  cursed  jack-boots  and  a  lot  of 
masquerade  rubbish,  rejected  by  a  carrier  on  the  ground 
that  it  was  no  part  of  his  business  to  convey  them  ;  and 
finally  the  division  of  an  ox's  hide  to  be  cut  up  for  sandals 
for  the  men,  led  to  as  much  noise  and  confusion  as  if  the 
animal  to  which  it  belonged  had  gone  mad  and  was 
running  a  muck  amongst  them, 

When  matters  had  a  little  calmed  down,  we  gave  a 
last  glance  round,  and  to  the  order  of  "  raise  your  packs  " 
started  in  front  of  the  caravan. 

Passing  through  the  plantations  that  surrounded  the 
stronghold,  we  descended  the  incline,  at  bottom  of  which 
ran  the  Quimbaxe  rivulet,  and  then  began  to  climb  the 
hill  which  rose  from  the  opposite  bank. 

The  commencement  of  the  journey  presented  no  inci- 
dent worthy  of  special  mention,  unless  we  can  rank  as  im- 
portant the  infliction  of  a  dozen  blows  of  a  stick  upon  the 
broad  back  of  Otubo,  who  at  the  last  moment  was  found 
drunk,  with  his  load,  in  a  little  hut  where  a  couple  of  his 
lady  acquaintances  were  endeavouring  to  conceal  him. 

"We  were  favoured  with  lovely  weather.  The  glorious 
sun  was  gilding  the  tops  of  the  trees  beneath  which  we 
were  passing,  their  branches  so  interlaced  that  they 
formed  a  natural  harbour,  wherein  thousands  of  birds 
had  their  homes,  and  fluttered,  and  chirped,  and  sung  in 
notes  as  varied  as  their  plumage. 

Master  Jose,  who  was  prattling  at  our  side  in  his  usual 
lively  fashion,  pointed  out  to  us  a  couple  of  graves 
wherein  were  interred  the  victims  of  a  double  assassina- 
tion   committed  by  an  amiable  chefe  of  the  fortress  who 


Captain  Silver  ids  Pets.  181 

was  accustomed  to  get  rid  of  people  who  were  distasteful 
to  him  by  sending  them  into  the  forest  to  cut  wood,  and 
then  ordering  them  to  be  quietly  shot  and  buried.  By 
Jose's  description  we  fancied  it  must  have  been  the  same 
gentleman  who  perpetrated  that  little  pleasantry  of  the 
cattle-lifting  to  which  we  have  before  alluded  !  These 
are  some  of  the  delights  of  a  subaltern  military  adminis- 
tration ! 

A  march  of  an  hour  and  a  half  brought  us  to  the  river 
Lu-chilo,  a  clear,  limpid  stream,  which  furnishes  water 
to  the  Duque,  and  on  whose  right  bank  was  a  jjatrulha1 
where  the  tracks  diverged.  Steering  our  course  for 
Ambaca,  we  continued  in  a  south-westerly  direction, 
and  set  up  our  first  camp  at  a  hamlet  called  Cas- 
sanje. 

Whilst  we  were  resting  beneath  the  shade  of  a  sycamore 
and  getting  wetted,  almost  before  we  were  aware  of  it, 
by  the  incessant  droppings  of  the  Ptyelus  Olivaceus,  we 
were  spectators  of  what  we  considered  to  be  a  great 
waste  of  energy  and  breath  on  the  part  of  our  travelling 
companion,  Captain  Silverio.  The  old  gentleman,  who 
was  passionately  fond  of  animals,  was  engaged  in  catching 
a  cat  and  saving  a  monkey. 

Like  most  persons  who  possess  this  mania  he  was 
singularly  unfortunate  in  his  pets,  and  was  in  constant 
trouble  either  about  their  health  or  mourning  over  their 
untimely  ends.  "  I  am  not  quite  sure,"  we  have  heard 
him  say,  "  whether  in  my  wish  to  be  kind  I  am  not 
really  cruel,  for  I  never  catch  anything  on  the  road  in 
order  to  make  a  pet  of  it,  but  it  is  sure  to  die  by  the 
way." 

i  These  patrulhas  are  military  stations  scattered  about  the  province, 
where  two  or  three  mobiles  are  kept  on  guard.  They  serve  to  protect 
the  roads  and  afford  a  refuge  for  travellers. 


1 8 2  West  and  Central  Africa. 

He  was  quite  right  in  the  latter  part  of  his  remark  on 
the  present  occasion,  for  the  little  monkey  got  a  sun- 
stroke and  fell  into  the  water  as  we  were  crossing  the 
river,  and  though  we  dragged  it  out  alive,  it  succumbed 
a  short  time  after,  in  spite  of  our  best  medical  skill  to 
save  it. 

As  to  the  cat,  in  a  fit  of  feline  ire  at  being  enclosed  in  a 
sack,  and  bumped  against  every  tree  the  carrier  who 
had  it  on  his  back  came  near,  he  managed  to  make  a 
hole  at  the  bottom  of  his  prison  while  he  was  en  route, 
and  by  the  speed  of  his  flight  gave  no  one  a  chance  of 
catching  him  again. 

Our  excellent  friend,  afflicted  at  the  loss  of  his  two 
fresh  acquisitions  was,  for  a  time  quite  inconsolable  ;  he 
shed  tears  over  the  loss  of  the  monkey,  and  got  into 
such  a  rage  with  the  carrier  who  had  unwittingly  let  his 
prisoner  escape,  that,  but  for  his  rheumatism,  which 
stiffened  his  joints  and  prevented  his  moving  with  any 
activity,  the  delinquent  would  have  been  heartily 
thrashed.  He  was,  however,  on  the  alert,  and  kept  out 
of  the  way. 

After  all,  the  fondness  entertained  by  the  old  gentle- 
man for  animals  was,  after  a  moment's  reflection, 
perfectly  intelligible.  Condemned  as  he  had  been  for 
years  to  a  life  in  the  interior,  surrounded  by  natives 
whose  habits  and  inclinations  were  alike  distasteful  to 
him,  he  had  acquired  a  love  for  dumb  creatures  which 
not  only  returned  his  affection  but  often  displayed  a 
nobility  of  character  to  which  the  negroes  were  utter 
strangers. 

The  evening  of  that  day  was  spent  in  endeavouring  to 
catch  a  specimen  or  two  of  a  night-bird  which,  with  the 
disappearance  of  the  sun  began  fluttering  about  in  every 
direction  and  wore  a  very  peculiar  appearance  owing  to 


Jose  's  Relatives. .  1 8 


o 


a  long  featlier  at  the  end  of  eacli  wing.  It  is  known  to 
naturalists  under  the  name  of  Cosmetomis  vexillarius, 
whilst  the  natives  of  those  parts  call  it  the  quimbamba. 
It  is  asserted  by  some  that  these  feathers,  like  the  tail  of 
the  Viduas  paradiseas  appear  at  a  certain  fixed  period, 
after  which  they  are  no  longer  seen — but  this  is  denied 
by  others.  The  family  of  the  C aprimulgidce  has  many 
representatives  here,  such  as  the  Huicumbamba,  Capri- 
mulgos  Shelleyi,  and  others. 

As  it  grew  dark,  we  were  obliged  to  give  up  our 
amusement,  which  had  resulted  in  nothing,  and  return 
to  the  patmlha,  where  we  sat  round  a  candle  and 
passed  a  couple  of  hours  listening  to  the  captain's 
stories,  when  we  separated  for  the  night. 

With  the  first  peep  of  day,  refreshed  and  invigorated 
by  a  sound  sleep,  we  were  up  and  on  the  march,  sniffing 
with  satisfaction  the  sweet  morning  air,  redolent  of 
perfume. 

Jose,  who  was  chattering  as  usual,  informed  us  that  in 
Ambaca  he  had  another  uncle  !  The  information  recalled 
vividly  to  our  minds  a  former  occasion  when  the  posses- 
sion of  such  a  relative,  by  our  worthy  guide,  gave  him, 
in  our  eyes,  so  respectable  a  character.  We  could  not 
now  refrain  from  observing  that  he  seemed  to  have  exten- 
sive connexions.  "  Immense,"  was  his  answer,  and  for 
a  whole  hour,  as  we  jogged  along,  he  gave  an  uninter- 
rupted history  of  his  parents  and  grandparents,  his 
uncles,  aunts,  and  cousins,  about  whom,  it  must  be 
confessed,  we  felt  so  little  interest  that  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  time  we  heard  him  talking,  but  could  not 
for  the  life  of  us  have  repeated  afterwards  any  of  the 
information  conveyed. 

Our  second  halting-place  was  at  the  patrulha  of 
Samba  Cango,  where  we  were  edified  by  the  perusal  of 


184 


West  and  Central  Africa, 


a  notice  from  the  commandant  of  the  division  (for  by 
this  high- sonn ding  name,  we  know  not  why,  the  subal- 
terns of  the  chefes  are  styled),  affixed  to  the  wall,  the 
orthography  and  construction  of  which  document  would 
have  puzzled  a  philologist. 

On  leaving  this  spot  we  travelled  west-south-west  into 
the  heart  of  the  Hango,  skirting  the  sides  of  the  Papa 


THE  PATRULHA.  OF  SAMBA  CANGO. 


Serras.  In  proportion  as  we  approached  Ambaca  the  Lu- 
calla  increased  in  size  and  volume  of  water.  It  was  no 
longer  the  rivulet  of  the  territory  of  Vunda-m-Woo,  but 
a  powerful  stream  winding  in  and  out  the  broken  ground. 
The  tortuous  course  of  the  river  appeared  strewed  with 
rocks  and  stones,  with  small  rapids  and  other  impedi- 
ments which  took  from  it  all  its  value. 


Porto  Real.  1S5 

We  afterwards  came  upon  a  constant  succession  of 
valleys,  some  bare,  others  clothed  with  verdure,  disposed 
perpendicularly  to  the  line  we  were  pursuing,  and  thus 
contrasting  remarkably  with  the  formations  on  the 
opposite  bank  where  the  lofty  Serra  Yunji  rose  in  sight. 

Resting  by  the  wayside  for  half  an  hour  or  so,  we 
went  on  again,  and  covered  during  the  day  a  good 
twelve  miles,  bivouacking  at  last  in  Bulo  Jan  go.  To 
the  north-west  an  extensive  serra  formed  the  horizon. 
Westward  we  observed  blue  hills  promiscuously  dotted 
about.  Vegetation  seemed  to  be  on  the  wane.  The 
red  sand-stone  was  prevalent  all  about  us,  and  not  a 
senzala  was  visible. 

Bondo-ia-Quilesso  was  met  with  further  on,  and  it 
was  about  that  spot  that  we  saw  many  of  our  old  friends 
the  baobabs,  those  giants  of  the  vegetable  kingdom 
known  at  Angola  under  the  name  of  imbundeiros,  and 
whose  grotesque  shapes  have  no  parallel  in  the  African 
flora. 

Our  march  now  became  trying  and  uncomfortable. 
Steep  hills,  covered  with  scrub  and  stones,  crossed  our 
path,  and  left  us  no  alternative  but  to  surmount  them, 
and  the  difficulty  of  ascending  them  was  only  matched 
by  the  trouble  of  getting  down  on  the  other  side. 
Further  on  we  had  to  wade  across  the  river  Cariombo, 
which  at  the  fording-place  divides  into  three  separate 
branches,  all  of  which  empty  their  waters  into  the  Lu- 
calla,  at  the  point  where  the  latter  river  turns  south- 
wards. 

On  the  8th  of  August  we  arrived  at  Porto  Real,  which 
has  nothing  grand  about  it  but  its  name;  indeed,  its 
resources  were  at  so  low  an  ebb,  that  we  had  some  diffi- 
culty at  first  in  procuring  a  boat.  The  canoes,  or  rather 
rafts,  we   subsequently  saw   amused  us  mightily,  while 


1 86  West  and  Central  Africa. 

they  excited  our  admiration  at  the  ingenuity  displayed 
by  the  natives  in  overcoming  the  difficulties  by  which 
they  are  beset.  As  there  is  no  timber  for  the  construc- 
tion of  a  decent-sized  vessel — seeing  that  the  savannas 
of  Ambaca  are  so  bare  of  wood  that  the  people  are 
obliged  to  use  grass  for  the  cooking  of  their  food — the 
aborigines  make  up  bundles  of  mabu,  whence  they  remove 
the  flowery  top,  dry  them  by  long  exposure  to  the 
sun,  and  then  fasten  them  together  so  that  the  whole 
pile  assumes  the  shape  of  an  isosceles  triangle,  and 
somewhat  resembles  the  m'badji  canoes  observed  by 
Schweinfurth  among  the  Bornus. 

Launching  this  structure  into  the  water,  they  use 
neither  paddles  nor  oars  to  move  it,  but  a  young  nigger 
sprawls  on  his  stomach  on  each  quarter  of  the  vessel 
and  employs  his  legs  that  are  dangling  in  the  water  to 
propel  the  skiff  along.  It  is  a  complete  system  of  parallel 
screws,  and  by  either  working  together  or  separately, 
to  starboard  or  port,  the  desired  direction  is  obtained. 
Long  practice  has,  of  course,  given  them  such  experience 
in  pilotage  that  they  steer  for  the  point  to  which  they 
are  bound  with  a  nicety. 

After  our  men  and  baggage  were  got  over,  we  stayed 
behind  for  some  little  time  to  watch  the  evolutions  of 
the  mariners  in  mid- stream,  and  were  delighted  at  the 
dexterity  they  displayed.  What  astonished  us  most  was 
to  learn,  that  though  the  river  is  full  of  crocodiles,  there 
was  no  instance  of  one  of  the  screws  having  fallen  a 
prey  to  their  voracious  jaws.  This  must  have  been  due 
(or  at  least  they  said  so)  to  the  fetishes  they  carried 
about  them,  consisting  generally  of  a  seed  or  tooth  or 
horn  hung  round  the  neck  ! 

Having"  taken  careful  note  of  this  clever  contrivance 
as  worthy  of  imitation  in  the  interior,  and  promising  to 


Ambaca.  187 

make  use  of  it  in  any  future  explorations  thither,  we  left 
the  port  for  Praca  Velha,  formerly  the  residence  of  the 
chefe  of  the  district,  and  as  being  far  better  situated 
than  the  present  one  was,  as  a  matter  of  course,  set 
aside,  in  order  that  it  might  not  prove  an  exception  to 
the  old  and  invariable  Portuguese  custom  of  selecting 
the  very  worst  spot  for  a  permanent  station.  We  be- 
lieve there  is  scarce  a  Lusitanian,  if  he  had  to  choose 
between  Cintra  and  Trafraria  to  pitch  his  tent,  but 
would  select  the  latter,  on  the  ground  of  its  being  readier 
to  hand  or  more  convenient,  or  any  other  excuse  whereby 
to  make  the  worse  appear  the  better  reason. 

On  the  following  day  we  recrossed  the  Lu-calla,  having 
decided  upon  paying  a  visit  to  Ambaca,  the  chief  seat  of 
the  district,  which  we  had  left  some  five  miles  to  the 
westward.  Being  desirous  to  make  some  surveys  of  the 
river  ere  the  sun  got  too  high  in  the  heavens,  we  started 
so  early  in  the  morning  that  the  Scops  leucotis  and  Athene 
perlata  (species  of  screech  owls),  had  not  yeb  gone  to 
rest,  but  were  occasionally  making  the  welkin  hideous 
with  their  lugubrious  cries  the  while  they  sat  ensconced 
in  the  hollow  of  the  trees. 

None  can  imagine  our  disappointment  on  reaching 
our  destination  to  find  that  it  was  a  miserable  village 
consisting  of  a  single  street  with  three  houses  (if  they 
even  deserved  that  name)  and  a  dozen  and  a  half  wig- 
wams. Crossing  a  bare  piece  of  country  we  entered  the 
precincts  to  find  a  few  groups  of  negroes,  who,  squatted 
on  the  ground  at  a  place  pompously  called  the  market, 
exposed  to  the  sun  and  to  a  myriad  of  flies,  two  quarters 
of  an  ox,  a  few  potatoes,  and  a  little  flour. 

This  tumble-down  and  most  desolate  station,  seated 
on  sandstone  and  amid  cracked  masses  of  schistus,  from 
which  it    derives   something  like   stability,   and    having 


1 88  West  and  Central  Africa, 

about  it  a  singular  air  of  distrust  and  gloom,  boasts  on 
one  side  of  some  little  plantations  of  giuguba  and  tobacco, 
which  are  dispersed  over  a  slope  that  inclines  north- 
wards, and  extend  to  the  edge  of  a  narrow  valley  inter- 
sected by  the  Pamba  rivulet.  Behind  it,  like  giant 
sentinels,  a  score  or  so  of  mounts  rise  from  the 
lower  ground,  their  bald  granitic  heads  giving  one  a 
fever  only  to  look  at  them.  A  roasting  sun  blazing  in  a 
cloudless  sky,  and  half  a  dozen  Europeans  of  cadaverous 
aspect,  their  heads  wrapped  in  linen  and  their  legs  full 
of  ulcers,  complete  the  unattractive  picture.  Every  soul 
one  meets  in  Ambaca  is  in  mourning,  as  though  death 
were  so  wide-spread  that  none  can  escape  the  exhibi- 
tion of  such  semblance  of  woe. 

Most  persons  are  aware  that  Ambaca  is  the  country 
of  those  industrious  gentlemen  of  whom  we  have  before 
spoken  under  the  denomination  of  Ambaquistas.  It  is 
undoubted  that  in  no  other  part  of  the  province  could 
one  be  so  easily  bamboozled  as  in  that  holy  city ;  and 
though  we  ourselves,  owing  to  our  being  thoroughly 
forewarned,  escaped  fleecing  on  the  present  occasion,  we 
had  been  so  frequently  deceived  before  that  the  very 
name  of  Ambaquista  made  us  feel  ill  at  ease. 

It  is  asserted  that  Ambaca  was  once  upon  a  time  thickly 
populated,  that  it  had  wealth,  occupation,  and  move- 
ment. Judging  from  present  appearances,  it  is  difficult  to 
believe  that  it  was  so ;  but  we  were  informed  that  the 
persecutions  and  grasping  of  the  authorities  little  by 
little  drove  people  away  to  seek  their  living  under  more 
secure  auspices.  That  which  gives  a  semblance  of  truth 
to  the  assertion  about  the  former  prosperity  of  Ambaca 
is  the  incontestable  fact  that  from  remote  times  the  dis- 
trict was  considered  one  of  the  most  profitable  to  a 
zealous  administrator,  and  that  a  good  deal  of  competition 


The  Ambaca  Railway.  189 

for  its  possession  went  on  among  gentlemen  who  were 
moved  by  a  feeling  to  be  useful. 

The  aspect  of  affairs  at  the  present  time  is  simply  this, 
that  Ambaca  is  worth  nothing  at  all,  because  all  she  ever 
had  has  been  squeezed  out  of  her,  and  it  would  be  diffi- 
cult indeed  for  any  place  to  retain  importance  when  her 
wealthiest  sons  have  been  driven  away,  and  those  who 
are  left  are  systematically  despoiled.  And  thus  it  is  that 
although  the  soil  is  well  fitted  for  certain  crops  the  land 
lies  fallow  for  want  of  cultivation.  The  chief  products 
of  the  district  are  ginguba  and  tobacco,  but  the  fields  are 
so  few  and  scattered  that  it  is  easy  to  foresee  even  they 
may  be  abandoned  unless  a  more  favourable  tide  should 
set  into  the  place.  It  is,  however,  no  part  of  our  mis- 
sion to  attempt  to  lay  before  our  readers  an  economic- 
admiuistrative  plan  for  the  reorganization  of  the  districts 
of  the  Portuguese  "Western  Province  in  Africa ;  so 
leaving  that  most  arduous  task  to  wiser  heads  than 
ours  we  will  resume  our  own  special  narrative. 

After  remaining  in  the  suburbs  a  sufficient  length  of 
time  to  fix  three  stations  of  the  abba,  take  the  bearings 
of  the  land,  and  examine  the  site  for  the  terminus  of  the 
line  called  the  Ambaca  railway — existing  at  present  only 
in  the  fervent  imagination  of  African  agriculturists  and 
merchants,  and  in  certain  big  folios  which  special 
archives  conceal  from  profane  eyes — we  returned  to  the 
residence  of  the  official  who  was  doing  duty  in  the 
absence  of  the  chefe,  in  order  to  rest  from  our  fatigues 
and  restore  our  exhausted  strength  by  the  ordinary  pro- 
cess of  meat  and  drink.  Breakfast  over,  we  took  leave, 
wishing  the  inhabitants  of  Ambaca  better  health  and  a 
little  less  heat,  and  turning  our  faces  eastward  we  re- 
traced our  steps  to  the  encampment. 

On  our  road  thither  we   observed  one  of  the  extraor- 


190  West  and  Central  Africa. 

dinary  baobabs  already  referred  to,  and  which  was  of 
such  monstrous  shape  that  it  seemed  as  if  nature  had 
produced  it  in  a  fit  of  spleen.  The  stupendous  trunk  of 
this  goliath  struck  us  as  so  remarkable  that  we  not  only 
walked  round  but  measured  it,  and  found  the  circum- 
ference to  be  no  less  than  fifteen  fathoms,  while  its  roots 
were  visible  at  thirty  paces  from  the  stem,  making  it  a 
perfect  voyage  to  circumnavigate  it  completely ! 

We  again  crossed  the  river  on  one  of  the  novel  rafts 
and  rested  on  the  other  bank  long  enough  to  make  the 
sketch  we  present  to  our  readers,  regretting  that  our 
want  of  skill  as  draughtsmen  has  prevented  us  exhibiting 
a  more  finished  picture. 

It  was  the  8th  of  August  that  we  resumed  our -journey 
bound  for  Pedras  Negras  or  the  Black  Eocks.  Scaling 
and  descending  mounts  and  ravines,  and  traversing 
woods  in  the  fresh  morning  air  under  the  guidance  of 
Jose,  our  whole  attention  was  given  to  the  search  for 
basalts.  It  had  become  a  sort  of  mania  with  us,  since 
we  had  declared  that  there  was  a  basaltic  stratum  in  the 
Serra  Hengue,  to  discover  a  fragment,  no  matter  where, 
so  that  we  might  fall  back  upon  volcanic  action  to  ex- 
plain the  crags  of  Pun  go  N'Dongo,  which,  however,  we 
are  no  more  capable  of  doing  now  than  we  did  then. 
Considering  our  geological  investigations  fruitless,  and 
tired  of  hearing  Jose,  for  the  twentieth  time,  inquire, 
"  Is  it  this  ?  "  as  he  pointed  out  the  most  unlikely  rocks, 
we  gave  the  matter  up,  and  contented  ourselves  with 
admiring  Nature,  who  there  unrolls  before  the  delighted 
eyes,  a  majestic  panorama  that  Dr.  Livingstone  had  ad- 
mired before  ourselves.  Nor  was  music  wanting  to 
lend  a  charm  to  the  landscape,  for  the  overhanging 
boughs  were  peopled  with  feathered  songsters  that  kept 
up  a  continual  concert. 

Being  somewhat  tired,  we  thought  how  delightful  it 


Travelling  at  ease.  1 9 1 

would  be  to  enjoy  all  these  lovely  views  while  being  con- 
veyed in  the  palanquin ;  so  summoning  the  bearers  we 
put  our  sketch  and  note-book  in  our  pockets  and  reclined 
ourselves  at  ease  in  the  tajpoia.  It  was  an  unfortunate 
mistake  as  it  turned  out,  for  the  swinging  motion  was 
so  conducive  to  slumber,  that  having  half  closed  our 
eyes  in  order  to  enjoy  the  illusive  feeling  that  we  were 
travelling  in  a  dream,  they  were  soon  shut  up  entirely, 
and  for  two  good  hours  we  were  fast  asleep. 

When  we  awoke,  so  great  was  the  change  in  the  aspect 
of  things  that  we  might  well  believe  we  were  still  dream- 
ing. We  were  in  a  bare  rocky  country,  whereon  the 
sun  was  blazing,  as  an  African  sun  is  wont  to  do. 
Birds,  trees,  fresh  zephyrs  and  basaltic  piles  had  all 
vanished  !  Of  the  lovely  landscape  on  which  we  had 
closed  our  eyes  only  the  faintest  recollection  was  left, 
and  of  the  topography  of  the  country  not  a  trace. 

"Hola!     Stop!     Stop!" 

And  jumping  out  by  way  of  relieving  our  consciences, 
we  fell  foul  of  our  bearers. 

"  How  the  d 1  could  you  let  us   sleep  like  this  ? 

How  many  mountains  have  we  crossed,  and  have  we 
passed  any  rivers  ?  " 

And  with  our  note-book  on  our  knees,  listening  and 
scribbling,  we  paid  our  devoirs  to  science  by  guessing  at 
the  curves  and  irregularities  of  the  country  we  had  been 
carried  through. 

We  were  then  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Heleji,  where 
separate  the  roads  to  Pungo  N'Dongo  by  the  Lungue 
and  to  Malange  via  Calundo.  Striking  into  the  track 
on  the  right,  we  soon  reached  a  patrulha,  where  we  had 
a  good  night's  rest,  which  enabled  us  to  go  on  again 
with  fresh  spirit  next  morning  on  our  journey  south- 
ward. 

We  were  then  just  entering  the    inner    limit  of   the 


192  West  and  Central  Africa. 

mountainous  region.  On  our  right  and  left,  before  and 
behind  us,  we  beheld  nothing  but  serras,  peaks,  mounts, 
and  chains  of  lofty  hills,  confusedly  mixed  up  together 
and  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  in  every 
direction.  The  road  became  more  and  more  solitary — 
anything  in  the  shape  of  a  dwelling  being  a  rarity. 
Feathered  game,  however,  was  not  wanting,  and  from 
time  to  time  a  wood-pigeon  or  a  partridge  would  rapidly 
cross  our  line  of  march  without  any  one  attempting  to 
bring  it  down,  so  great  a  difference  does  it  make  when 
a  man  has  his  bellyful  and  when  he  is  on  the  point  of 
starvation. 

For  the  first  time  we  perceived  some  singular  cocoons, 
of  the  shape  of  slices  cut  out  of  a  cheese,  having  within, 
curious  to  relate,  more  than  one  chrysalis,  as  we  easily 
conjectured  by  the  rattle  when  shaking  them.  The  outer 
cover,  in  capital  condition,  was  made  of  a  substance  in 
every  respect  analogous  to  silk,  and  very  probably  as 
useful ;  it  is  certainly  as  unknown  in  Europe  as  is  that 
of  the  qui-vuvi  spider  we  have  before  alluded  to,  and 
which  we  met  with  very  abundantly. 

The  path  led  us  by  rapid  curves  through  extensive 
woods,  at  one  time  leading  us  across  a  brook  with  a 
sandy  bottom,  at  another  through  a  torrent  with  almost 
perpendicular  sides,  hugging  the  flanks  of  the  serras 
Catencla,  Cachinje  and  Quilulo,  until  it  brought  us  out 
into  a  long  and  open  plain  where  the  most  singular 
prospect  met  our  eye. 

Upon  ground  of  no  great  elevation,  and  still  here 
and  there  obscured  by  the  morning  vapour,  rose  in 
groups,  without  any  order,  enormous  cliffs  of  various 
shapes,  from  the  column  to  the  sphere,  jumbled  all  up 
together,  and  extending  for  some  leagues  eastward  till 
they  were  lost  in  the  horizon. 


Pungo  N^  Dongo. 


193 


Assuming  as  they  did  the  strangest  shapes,  these 
rocks,  seen  at  a  distance  along  the  track  Ave  were  pur- 
suing, looked  wonderfully  like  a  huge  castle,  with 
turrets  and  embrasures,  which  only  giant  architects 
could  have  conceived  and  erected.  These  were  the 
famous  Pungo  N'Dongo  rocks  (commonly  known  as  the 
Black  Stones)  where  the  Government  of    Portugal    has 


ROCKS    OF    PUNGO    N  DONGO- 


established  the  head-quarters  of  a  district.  As  we 
approached  them  their  aspect  underwent  a  change,  in- 
creasing rapidly  with  their  nearness  in  grandeur  and 
sublimity. 

Rising  majestically  as  they  did  in  the  middle  of 
the  plain  to  which  we  have  alluded,  they  appeared 
to  defend   the    vast  enceinte  they   enclosed,,   both  from 

vol.  11.  o 


194  West  and  Central  Africa. 

indiscreet  eyes  and  from  the  vegetation  that  stopped 
at  their  foot,  satisfied  with  bestowing  upon  the  region 
a  contribution  of  fresh  water  which  welled  from  out 
their  flanks  and  went  gurgling,  in  the  shape  of  many 
rills,  to  seek  the  lower  ground. 

Having  for  some  time  contemplated  these  gigantic  cliffs, 
we  pursued  the  track  which  ]ed  up  to  an  entrance  on  the 
north  north-west  and  conducted  us  by  a  narrow  gully 
between  their  perpendicular  sides.  From  an  analysis  we 
made,  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  Pungo  N'Dongo 
rocks  are  exclusively  formed  of  a  hard  and  tough  con- 
glomerate, wherein  figures  clayey  schist,  mixed  with 
gneiss,  porphyry,  a  little  mica  and  a  species  of  basalt, 
although  as  regards  the  latter  we  speak  with  -a  certain 
reserve,  owing  to  the  doubt  existing  in  our  minds. 

Lying  precisely  under  latitude  9°  40',  they  crop  up 
again  eastward  under  the  name  of  Guingas,  some  twenty- 
five  miles  distant ;  and  further  on  still,  where  they  bear 
the  name  of  the  Quitoche  stones,  near  the  point  where 
the  River  Lombe  disembogues  into  the  Ouanza. 

The  first  idea  suggested  to  the  mind  of  him  who 
ascends  any  of  these  rocks  (for  they  are  almost  all  acces- 
sible to  a  good  climber),  and  who,  observing  their  arrange- 
ment, tries  to  explain  by  the  existence,  throughout  the 
conglomerate,  of  flints  perfectly  entire,  the  indubitable 
action  of  water,  is,  that  formerly  the  bed  of  the  river 
Cuanza  flowed  over  these  stones,  and  that  a  volcanic 
convulsion,  by  upheaving  them,  drove  the  course  of  the 
river  some  miles  to  the  southward.  What  tended  more 
especially  to  confirm  this  opinion  in  our  minds,  was  the 
discovery,  in  a  rock  near  the  slope  of  one  of  the  peaks, 
of  the  impressions  of  human  feet  mixed  with  those  of 
a  quadruped,  probably  a  dog,  of  which  we  took  a  sketch 
to  make  the  matter  clearer.     In   one  of  these  imprints 


Pedras  Negras.    -  195 

we  recognized  perfectly,  by  the  more  decided  marks 
of  the  toes,  that  the  person,  in  walking  over  damp  and 
pasty  ground,  had  slipped  in  planting  his  foot  and  there- 
by caused  an  unnaturally  long  impression.  There  were 
other  smaller  ones,  apparently  those  of  a  woman  or 
youth,  all  quite  distinct,  and  concerning  which  no  doubt 
whatsoever  could  exist. 

"  What  a  pity,"  we  exclaimed,  "  that  we  cannot  con- 
vey this  rock  to  Europe  !  What  a  mine  would  it  not 
be  to  our  men  of  science  !  " 

Within  the  shelter  of  these  singular  rocks,  and  in 
the  vacant  spaces  left  between  them,  the  town  has  been 
erected,  exhibiting  the  most  tortuous  conceivable  streets, 
due  to  the  capricious  position  of  the  huge  stones. 
Orange  and  other  fruit-trees  spring  from  every  fissure ; 
and  the  inhabitants  among  other  peculiarities  have  to  put 
up  with  a  shorter  day  than  people  living  beyond  the 
influence  of  the  rocks,  as,  in  consequence  of  their  great 
height,  the  sun  rises  later  and  sets  much  earlier  than  else- 
where. Cold  and  limpid  water,  accumulated  during  the 
rains  in  the  cavities  of  the  rock,  flows  in  little  runnels 
through  the  place  ;  we  heard  it  asserted  that  it  was  a 
fruitful  source  of  scurvy,  but  we  do  not  guarantee  the 
truth  of  the  assertion  nor  do  we  lend  it  any  credence. 

In  one  of  the  narrow  streets,  we  found  near  an  en- 
closure an  enormous  baobab,  around  which  clings  many 
a  tradition  ;  as  in  former  times,  beneath  its  spreading 
branches  were  held  the  councils  of  the  court  of  the 
Jinga,  at  the  period  when  ber  celebrated  queen  had  her 
residence  there. 

On  the  western  side  some  ruins  were  pointed  out  to 
us  as  marking  the  former  habitation  of  the  Portuguese 
Minister,  Jose  de  Seabra  da  Silva,  whom  the  chances  of 
political  life,  in  the  time  of  Sebastiao  Jose  de  Carvalho  e 

0  2 


196  West  and  Central  Africa. 

Mello,  drove  from  his  high-backed  morocco  chair  to  the 
mats  and  onabellas  of  an  African  couch  ! 

We  made  the  ascent  of  one  of  the  peaks,  wandered 
all  over  the  town,  dined  with  a  party  of  friends, 
where,  for  the  first  time,  we  heard  of  our  late  com- 
panion, Serpa  Pinto's  arrival  safe  and  sound  in  the 
beginning  of  the  year  at  Durban,  and  having  decided 
upon  dissipating  in  our  native  country,  the  ill-founded 
prejudice  entertained  by  our  compatriots  respecting  the 
Pedras  Negras  (to  whom  we  recommend  Pungo  N'Dongo 
as  one  of  the  healthiest  places  in  the  province),  we  took 
measures,  without  loss  of  time,  to  pursue  our  labours, 
by  making  a  survey  of  the  Cuanza. 

On  the  27th  of  August,  leaving  among  the  recks  and 
stones  the  idleness  of  many  days,  we  turned  our  backs 
upon  our  late  encampment  and  steered  a  course  south 
by  south-east,  bound  for  Port  Hunga.  Our  marches, 
however,  were  no  longer  the  straightforward,  business- 
like affairs  of  former  times.  Regular  food,  aguardente, 
and  numerous  caravans  on  their  way  to  the  coast,  dis- 
tracted the  men's  attention  and  made  them  averse  to 
anything  like  hard  work.  The  Calling  a>  the  "  great- 
water,"  was  in  their  thoughts,  and  they  not  only  voted 
the  Cuanza  a  bore,  but  feigned  to  consider  it  a  very 
poor  specimen  of  a  river. 

Master  Jose,  who  had  begun  to  be  alarmed  at  our 
insatiable  and  inconvenient  curiosity,  pretended  to  hold 
everything  of  light  account,  convinced  in  his  own  mind 
that  if  he  showed  us,  say  one  cataract,  we  should  at  once 
want  to  see  two.  He  therefore  frequently  tried  to  throw 
us  off  any  scent,  by  interminable  talk,  stopping  con- 
stantly on  the  road  "  to  point  a  moral  or  adorn  a  tale." 

At  four  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Port  Hunga,  and 
were  received  at  a  charming  country  house,  surrounded 


Reflections  and  Regrets.  1 9  7 

by   an    orange    plantation,    whoso    golden    fruit    shone 
temptingly  in  the  warm  sun. 

Having  received  a  visit  from  the  old  Sova  who,  owing 
as  he  stated,  to  a  powerful  fetish,  had  been  suddenly  struck 
blind;  we  passed  the  following  day  in  the  depths  of  a  thick 
grove,  talking  and  ruminating  on  a  variety  of  subjects. 

Our  task  wonld  soon  be  at  an  end.  We  were  day  by 
day  drawing  nearer  to  the  civilized  world,  and  the  cir- 
cumstance, agreeable  as  it  undoubtedly  was  on  many 
accounts,  did  not  nevertheless  fill  ns  with  entire  satis- 
faction. In  spite  of  the  sadness  which  belonged  to  our 
old  mode  of  life — notwithstanding  its  perils  and  its  suf- 
ferings, its  anxieties  and  its  labours,  it  had  somehow 
taken  a  hold  on  our  affections.  There  was  a  charm 
about  its  primitive  character,  its  entire  freedqm,  its  utter 
absence  of  conventionality.  The  simple  hut,  the  mur- 
murings  of  the  wood,  the  voices  of  our  men  engaged  upon 
their  various  vocations  in  the  camp — all  these  things,  as 
they  trooped  through  our  minds,  left  an  impression  of 
regret  when  coupled  with  the  thought  that  we  should 
see  and  hear  them  no  more  ! 

Man  cannot  live  for  many  months  together  in  any 
place  or  form  without  becoming,  to  a  certain  extent, 
accustomed  to  it,  and  without  feeling  a  certain  pang 
when  his  connexion  therewith  is  severed.  What  he  has 
to  suffer  in  the  interior  of  the  vast  continent  of  Africa 
may  at  times  appal  him,  as  our  record  will  have  shown, 
and  yet,  perhaps  not  one  beheld  his  return  without  a 
sigh  as  he  contemplated  the  vast  gulf  that  lay  between 
a  life  replete  with  action  and  novelty,  and  the  mono- 
tonous routine  of  existence  hanging  about  the  macadam 
of  Europe. 

We  had  learned,  however,  sufficient  philosophy  tq 
endure  with  a  shrug  what  we  conld  not  remedy,  so  pull- 


198  West  and  Central  Africa. 

ing  down  the  branch  of  an  orange -tree  which  was  just 
within  onr  reach,  we  plucked  some  of  its  tempting  fruit 
and  quenched  our  sentimental  feelings  in  its  delicious 
juice ;  then  turning  to  our  old  friend  Silverio  who,  lying 
on  his  back,  and  immersed  in  those  deep  considerations 
which  always  suggest  the  idea  of  the  circle  that  has  its 
centre  everywhere  and  its  circumference  nowhere,  and 
which  we  call  the  infinite,  we  challenged  him  to  a  game 
known  as  the  "  Chinese,"  and  that  consists  in  guessing 
whether  the  sections  of  the  fruit  about  to  be  opened  are 
odd  or  even.  As  he  always  lost  he  got  no  orange,  as 
he  was  too  lazy  to  rouse  up  to  pick  one  for  himself. 

It  was  on  the  29th  of  the  month,  at  about  eleven 
o'clock,  that  the  expedition  reached  a  point  just  below 
the  great  rapids  of  Mutula,  near  the  residence  of  the 
Sova  N'Gola  Quituche ;  and  still  continuing  along  the 
bank  of  the  Cuanza,  we  fell  in  with  another  blind  ruler, 
who  gave  precisely  the  same  reason  for  his  affliction  as 
the  previous  unfortunate,  viz.,  that  a  fetish  first  deprived 
him  of  one  eye,  and  then  another  did  the  same  cruel  office 
by  the  remaining  optic  !  As  it  appeared  that  only  the 
Sovas  suffered  from  blindness  in  this  part  of  the  world,  the 
old  French  saying,  Dans  le  pays  des  aveugles  les  borgnes 
sont  rois,  came  into  our  minds  and  made  us  paraphrase 
it  into,  "  In  the  country  of  eyes,  the  blind  are  kings/' 

Resuming  our  course  at  a  right  angle,  for  the  river, 
barred  by  the  rocks,  ran  here  directly  southwards,  we 
sat  down  to  a  quiet  contemplation  of  the  rapids, 

"  In  that  oblivion  of  mundane  things, 
Which  .  .  .  soon  was  banish'd  by  the  insects'  stings." 

Unfortunately  for  us  it  was  so.  The  place  was  in- 
fested with  the  young  of  those  small  flies  we  have 
once  before  alluded  to    as  making  honey  like  the  bees, 


Caballo  Cascade.  199 

and  which,  on  smelling  us  out,  swooped  down  in  their 
thousands,  eager  for  the  attack.  It  would  appear 
that  they  had  a  strong  preference  for  white  flesh 
(perhaps  on  account  of  its  being  less  odoriferous  and 
more  juicy),  and  on  their  arrival  they  settled  so  thickly 
upon  Silverio  and  ourselves  that  they  covered  us  com- 
pletely. We  swept  them  off  by  dozens  at  a  time,  but 
these  were  replaced  by  hundreds,  so  that  acknowledging 
our  weakness  before  the  enemy  we  took  to  flight. 

We  tramped  along  in  tolerable  disorder  after  our 
defeat,  for  the  space  of  an  hour,  when  we  reached  the 
senzala  Candumbo  and  found  the  direct  path  leading 
from  Punsro  N'dongo  to  Malano;e.  To  the  east,  in  a 
broad  curve,  we  observed  the  river  suddenly  widen,  and 
then  form  one  of  the  most  remarkable  cascades  we  had 
met  with  in  the  course  of  our  journey.  It  bears  the 
name  of  Caballo,  and  has  a  very  formidable  aspect. 
Parallel  lines  of  rocks,  equi-distant  from  each  other, 
and  each  line  at  a  lower  level  than  the  one  above, 
constitute  a  gigantic  staircase,  occupying  the  whole 
breadth  of  the  stream ;  the  water  tumbling  successively 
from  one  step  to  the  other,  and  forming  sq  many  small 
cascades,  which,  at  a  distance,  look  like  one  vast  sheet 
of  foam.  Above  bhe  falls  there  are  two  islands  covered 
with  trees,  and  called  by  the  natives  qui-colo  (Quiangolo) 
and  qui-colo  (Caquilla). 

We  encamped  right  in  front  of  them,  after  clearing 
away  the  dense  and  lofty  grasses,  partly  beaten  down  by 
the  hippopotami,  which  at  night-time  invade  the  low- 
lying  banks :  and  after  completing  a  sketch  of  the 
cascade,  we  proceeded  to  record  in  the  diary  the  follow- 
ing particulars. 

The  river  Cuanza,  as  far  as  we  have  surveyed  it? 
does  not  lose  the  character  of  a  valueless  watercourse, 


200 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


full  of  obstacles,  and  difficult  to  cross  from  one  bank  to 
the  other.  Between  Port  Hunga  and  the  point  where  we 
are  now  sojourning  there  are  no  fewer  than  six  cascades 


TELPHUSA    ANCHIETAE,    RIVER    CUANZA. 

(Phot,  from  nature.) 


and  rapids ;  and  hence  upwards  there  are  many  more,  and 
of  a  more  important  character. 


TELPHUSA  BAYONIANNA,  RIVER  CUANZA. 

,( I  'hut.  from  nature. ) 


From  an  average  breadth  of  forty-four  yards,  it 
widens  out  westward  along  the  foot  of  a  high  mountain 
range  called   Quiambella,  which  borders  it  on  the  south. 


Course  of  the  Ctianza. 


201 


On  quitting  the  plateaux  of  the  Songo,  those  monotonous 
and  immense  savannas,  the  river  runs  almost  perpendicu- 


EUPREPE8  IVENSI  (NEW  SPECIES),  RIVER  CUANZA. 

{Phot,  from  nature.) 

larly  to  the  broken  ground,  and  by  a  succession  of  leaps, 
as  it  were,  makes  its  way  to  the  sea.     Mount  Catenha,  and 


CHROMIS    SPAKliAMAKNI    (s.MITH),    RIVER    CUviNZA. 

(I'kot.  from  nature.) 

on  the  north-north-west  the  Quitoeta,  are  the  two  great 
barriers  which  curb  the  waters  of  the  plateau,  and  drive 


202  West  and  Central  Africa. 

them  into  the  Lucalla  and  Cuanza,  the  two  large  channels 
by. which  the  drainage  is  performed.  It  is  extremely  rich 
in  fish,  crustaceans,  and  reptiles,  whereof  we  exhibit  a 
few  specimens  obtained  higher  up  the  stream ;  among 
them  figuring  the  Muntalandonga,  Euprepes  Ivensi  (a 
new  species)  which,  though  found  in  the  Luando,  is 
likewise  an  inhabitant  of  the  Cuanza.  We  procured 
also  specimens  of  a  frog,  of  two  or  three  crabs,  whereof 
there  are  many,  of  some  reptiles,  and  of  fish  of  various 
kinds  that  make  their  home  in  the  river,  as  may  be  seen 
by  the  engravings  in  this  chapter,  photographed  after 
we  returned  to  Europe  from  the  specimens,  we  had 
preserved  in  spirit. 

Enormous  bagres  are  taken  out  of  the  Cuanza-  and  the 
marginal  lakes,  and  after  being  dried  or  smoked  they  are 
despatched  to  the  Songo  and  other  districts,  and  consti- 
tute a  not  unimportant  native  trade.  We  heard  mention 
when  on  the  spot  of  the  celebrated  mermaid  (Manatus 
senegalensis)  having  been  seen  beyond  the  rapids.  We 
never,  however,  ourselves  set  eye^>  on  one  at  any  point 
whatsoever ;  the  natives  showed  us  what  they  called  a  skin 
of  one  of  these  creatures,  and  told  us  stories  about  them, 
but  little  worthy  of  credit. 

Hippopotami  may  be  heard  blowing  all  along  the  banks 
of  the  river,  and  numerous  crocodiles  may  be  seen 
warming  themselves  in  the  sun,  on  the  little  sandy 
islands,  and  disappearing  at  the  slightest  unusual 
noise. 

Both  the  ornithological  and  entomological  fauna  would 
offer  a  wide  field  for  study  ^  which  a  naturalist  fresh  to 
the  work  might  turn  to  good  account,  but  which  we,  in 
our  position,  found  it  impossible  to  pursue.  And  so  it 
is  in  many  other  branches.  The  explorer  at  the  out- 
set is  feverishly  impatient   to    see  everything,  to  note 


.Cataracts  of  the  Ctianza..  203 

down  everything — rushes  from  geography  to  meteorology, 
and  thence  to  the  natural  sciences — is  in  a  constant 
flutter  of  excitement,  and  bewildered  with  his  theodolite, 
his  scalpel,  his  presses  for  plants,  and  his  paper  for  maps 
and  plans.  Then  comes  the  more  sober  stage.  He  first 
throws  over  the  insects,  then  the  birds,  gives  plants  the 
go-by,  and  as  he  nears  the  end  of  the  journey  sticks  to 
geography  alone. 

For  a  couple  of  days  we  still  continued  our  course  by 
the  river,  halting  on  the  31st  of  August  at  11.30  a.m.  at 
Quibinda,  where  we  encamped  in  order  to  perform  our 
necessary  labours.  About  seven  miles  from  that  point 
up  stream  there  is  a  cascade  called  Quitaxe,  and  eight 
miles  higher  up  still  the  river  falls  in  the  shape  of  an 
important  cataract,  the  Condo,  well  known  to  our 
merchants  who  are  accustomed  to  make  pleasure-parties 
from  Malange  to  visit  the  grand  spectacle. 

We  here  deem  it  opportune  to  insert  a  digression, 
suggested  by  our  last  remark  about  the  little  trips  of  our 
countrymen  residing  at  Malange,  with  a  view  to  put 
public  opinion  right  upon  a  point  about  which  there 
appears  to  be  considerable  uncertainty.  We  mean  the 
discovery  of  the  cataracts  of  the  Cuanza,  which  is 
attributed  to  every  foreign  explorer  who  falls  in  with 
them.  Dr.  Livingstone,  for  instance,  on  crossing  from 
the  Upper  Zambese  to  the  Dondo  fancied  that  he  dis- 
covered there,  as  by  enchantment,  the  Cabulo  cataract, 
situated  almost  within  a  stone's  throw  of  Cambambe, 
but  which  had  been  familiar  to  us  from  time  immemorial ; 
and  quite  recently  another  traveller  who  reached  the 
Condo,  announced  to  Europe  that  he  presented  it  with 
a  novelty  till  then  unknown  I 

Now  a  simple  inspection  of  the  map  of  Angola,  bearing 
the  name  of  the  Marquis  de  Sa  da  Bandeira,  will  suffice 


204 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


to   show  the  mistakes  which    the  best   of    geographers 
may  sometimes  commit,  where  they  pin  their  faith  to  the 


DEMBE    (MORMYUUS    LHUYST,    STEIND),    RIVER   CUASZA. 

(PJtot.  from  nature.) 

ordinarily    available   maps ;    but    the  last    assertion  we 
allude  to  is  so  gross  that  it  requires  no  comment. 


MUACA    (HEMICHROM1S    ANGOLENSIS,    STEIND),    RIVER    CUANZA. 

(Phot,  from  nature.) 

Having  thus  had  our  say,  we  will  leave  the  cataracts 
of  the  Cuanza,  ivhich  we  did  not  discover,  and  pursue 
our  journey. 


CHR02IIS    MOSS    AMBICUS    (PETERS)?    RIVEK    CUAiNZA. 

(Phot,  from  nature.) 

With  the  first  blush  pf  morn  of  the  1st  day  of  Sep- 
tember we  were  astir,  almost  as  early  as  the  birds,  and  set 
out  in  a  north-north-east  direction  by  the  track  running 
to  Malange  in  order  to  connect  our  surveys  with  those 


Mode  of  Survey. 


205 


made  near  the    same    spot   before   we    started   for   the 
north. 

It  will  be  comprehended  that  such  a  connexion  was 
highly  important,  inasmuch  as  now,  after  a  lapse  of 
some  months,  we  were  about  to  return  to  a  point  where 
the  chronometer  would  determine  a  longitude,  and  there- 
fore on  making  a  second  observation  we  should  obtain 
the  mean  of  our  marches  with  the  utmost  exactness, 
and   the    bearings    of   the    entire   region    in    respect    of 


HIGHLY    ORNAMENTAL    FHOG,    RIVER    CUAXZA. 

{Phot,  from  nature.) 

Malange,  which  would  in  turn  be  corrected  when  we 
reached  the  coast.  We  must  add,  to  the  honour  of  Mi\ 
Dent  of  London,  that  his  chronometer  (one  of  the  best 
we  ever  met  with)  reached  that  spot  with  a  variation  of 
only  2.5  miles  !  A  circumstance  upon  which  we  lay- 
some  stress,  and  consider  of  very  great  advantage,  was 
the  constant  attention  we  paid  to  our  marches,  because 
from  time  to  time,  halting  for  two,  three,  and  four  days,  at 
elevations  on  the  first  and  last,  we  were  enabled  to  record 
those  marches  to  a   nicety.     To  tell  the  truth,  we  never 


2o6  West  and  Central  Africa. 

discovered  any  differences,  and  the  chronometer,  which 
on  entering  Benguella  showed  4s  30*,  indicated  after 
perfect  acclimatization  73  30*,  and  so  continued  till  we 
reached  the  coast. 

It  will  be  readily  estimated  how  invaluable  such  an 
instrument  must  be  in  the  interior,  more  especially  if  we 
bear  in  mind  that  the  largest  stream  of  water  surveyed 
by  us- — the  Cuango — ran  due  north  and  south,  and  that 
a  great  part  of  its  projection  was  made  with  the  chrono- 
meter, inasmuch  as  the  plane-table  or  theodolite  could  not 
possibly  be  carried  with  us  for  700  miles  through  forests 
and  savannas,  over  mountains,  and  across  streams. 

The  general  process  adopted  by  us  for  the  tracing  of 
the  maps  always  had  for  a  basis  the  constant  determination 
of  the  geographical  co-ordinates,  for  the  greatest  possible 
number  of  stations,  and  then  by  successive  tours  d9 horizon 
we  succeeded,  by  means  of  crossings,  in  embracing  a 
zone  of  road  of  twenty,  thirty,  and  even  more  miles. 
Availing  ourselves  of  the  three  great  resources  of  navi- 
gation— latitude,  longitude,  and  azimuth — we  employed 
them  always  as  a  primary  element  of  all  our  labours, 
and  we  completed  them  afterwards  either  by  the  theo- 
dolite or  by  the  plane-table  in  the  narrower  and  more 
important  regions. 

The  chronometer,  therefore,  was  one  of  the  most 
useful  instruments,  and  on  that  account  we  used  every 
care  for  its  preservation  ;  and  we  hold  it  to  be  abso- 
lutely necessary  in  the  interior  where  it  can  be  combined 
with  the  satellites  of  Jupiter  for  great  arcs  of  longitude. 
Unfortunate,  however,  would  be  the  explorer  who 
should  attempt  to  determine  positions  consecutively  by 
the  satellites  of  that  planet !  In  a  very  short  time  errors 
on  one  side  or  the  other  would  be  sure  to  create  confu- 
sion that  could  with  difficulty  be  escaped,  and  could  only 
be  avoided  by  putting  the  watch  on  one  side. 


Value  of  the  Chronometer.  207 

One  chronometer,  at  least,  is  an  indispensable  adjunct, 
and  the  explorer  who  goes  to  Africa  without  one,  will 
soon  hud  it  simply  impossible  to  do  his  work,  or  he 
must  restrict  himself  to  small  portions  of  ground,  of 
which  he  can  make  precise  maps,  with  correct  sections 
and  level  curves,  things  after  all  of  little  benefit  to 
African  geography  in  the  present  day. 

Passing  the  rest  of  the  day  on  the  Lombe  at  Caballo, 
receiving  visits,  making  presents,  and  listening  to 
long-winded  stories,  we  closed  the  diary  without  record- 
ing in  ifc  anything  of  note,  and  slept  such  a  sleep  as  had 
rarely  been  granted  us — full  nine  hours  off  the  reel. 

On  the  2nd  of  September  we  were  near  Malange  at 
the  Lombe  do  Motta,  having  half  resolved  to  make  a 
trip  to  Cacol-Calombo  to  see  some  grottoes,  but  an 
attack  of  fever  upset  the  plan,  and  on  the  following  day 
we  started  for  Pungo  N'Dongo  by  the  Calundo  track, 
anxious  to  bring  our  journey  to  an  end,  inasmuch  as 
our  people  were  much  reduced  in  strength  and  showed 
less  and  less  inclination  to  obey  orders. 

Many  caravans  crossed  us  on  the  road,  and  were  the 
means  of  still  further  retarding  our  progress,  but  finally, 
on  the  8th  of  the  month,  we  once  more  arrived  in  camp, 
having  terminated  our  journey  without  any  incident  of 
moment. 


U1VKR    (JUAN  Z  A    CKAO. 


2o8  West  and  Central  Africa. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Return  to  camp — The  pulex  penetrans  and  a  noteworthy  entozoario — 
Variableness  of  the  winds  at  Pungo  N'Dongo — The  explorer's 
staff  and  the  writer's  pen — We  take  leave  of  Silverio — Cabeto  and 
Cuanza  flies — Native  lightning-conductors — Capanda  and  the 
western  vegetation — Brief  notice  of  its  ornithology — Sengue  and 
Nhangue-ia-Pepe — Cataracts  of  the  Cuanza — The  Sova  Dumba — 
Cassoque — Von  Mechow — The  Bango  and  climatological  varia- 
tions— The  Cuanza  and  the  Cabulo  cataract — Last  glance  at  the 
interior — The  Dondo — Reception  of  the  explorers  at  that  place — 
A  trip  on  the  river — Loanda — Mossamedes — The  voyage  home. 

On  our  return  to  Pungo  N'Dongo  we  again  took  up  our 
quarters  in  our  former  camp  in  order  to  give  the  caravan 
the  few  days'  rest  required  before  pursuing  our  survey 
of  the  river  and  then  marching  in  the  direction  of  the 
coast. 

Among  the  most  important  districts  of  the  interior,  we 
had  already  visited  Malange,  Duque  de  Braganca, 
Ambaca,  and  Pungo  N'Dongo ;  we  had  yet,  therefore,  to 
see  Cazengo,  Golungo,  Icollo  or  Zenza,  and  Dondo.  As, 
however,  the  last  mentioned  was  upon  the  bank  of  the 
river,  we  decided  to  proceed  to  it  at  once,  and  subse- 
quently visit  the  others  if  our  strength  or  circumstances 
should  allow. 

We  therefore  spent  some  days  in  perfect  repose ; 
feeding,  talking,  some  strolling  about,  others  paying 
visits ;  a  few  tryiug  to  avoid  the  clutches  of  Satan  by 
placing  themselves,    through    the    medium  of    baptism, 


The  Brazilian  Flea,  209 

under  the  safeguard  of  Holy  Mother  Church  (this  was 
more  especially  the  case  among  the  girls) ;  and  finally 
many  in  seeking  to  cure  maladies  from  which  they  were 
still  suffering,  or  that  had  appeared  with  a  change  in 
their  mode  of  existence. 

Since  our  departure  from  Duque  de  Braganca  we  had 
been  attacked  by  a  new  scourge,  and  a  pertinacious, 
villanous  one  it  was,  unknown  to  us  in  the  interior,  and 
which  we  suppose  afflicted  us  now  so  that  we  might 
conclude,  with  a  perfect  connaissance  de  cause,  the  history 
of  those  miseries  which  the  climate,  ants,  flies  and  mos- 
quitoes had  so  brilliantly  begun. 

This  was  the  infernal  Brazilian  flea  (Pulex  penetrans), 
wherewith  the  whole  of  this  part  of  the  country  is  thickly 
peopled,  and  which,  penetrating  into  any  wounds  or 
sores,  particularly  about  the  toes  or  fingers,  produce 
an  inflammation  that  has  to  be  very  promptly  attended 
to  (more  especially  where  a  negro  is  concerned)  if  it 
be  desired  to  avoid  the  loss  of  a  limb  ! 

Cases  of  amputated  legs  are  common  among  the  blacks, 
who  have  allowed  themselves  to  become  a  prey  to  these 
vile  insects,  and  with  whom  at  last,  any  treatment  short 
of  amputation  is  impossible,  through  the  affected  part 
being  literally  swarmed  with  the  vermin. 

When  attacked  about  the  feet — the  toes  are  usually 
first  affected — the  poor  fellows  would  go  hobbling  about 
the  quilombo,  a  misery  to  themselves  and  a  danger  to  all 
about  them,  so  that  we  were  forced  to  look  sharply  after 
the  sufferers  in  order  to  effect  a  speedy  cure,  ere  they 
became  disabled  altogether. 

Another  disgusting  insect  (a  sort  of  entozoarto)  likewise 
made  its  appearance  at  this  time,  and  was  no  less  per- 
nicious than  the  former  although  somewhat  more  rare. 
Burrowing    into    the    muscles    of   the    legs    (as    in    the 

vol.  ir.  p 


2  io  West  and  Central  Africa. 

instance  we  witnessed)  it  there  deposits  its  eggs, 
whence  issue  short,  round  maggots,  for  all  the  world 
like  those  observed  in  certain  fruit,  and  which,  in 
obedience  to  their  instincts,  commit  the  most  frightful 
ravages.  Multiplying  with  extraordinary  facility,  as  is 
always  the  case  with  the  lowest  forms  of  the  animal 
kingdom,  it  may  readily  be  supposed  that  in  a  longer  or 
shorter  space  of  time  the  limb  so  attacked  would,  if  no 
remedy  were  us'ed  to  check  the  evil,  be  in  the  very 
gravest  peril. 

We  do  not  remember  any  instances  of  quadrupeds 
suffering  from  this  last-mentioned  insect ;  but  the  flea 
attacks  pigs  and  dogs  very  severely;  our  own  faithful 
hound  being  one  of  the  sufferers  and  requiring'  constant 
care  and  attention  dn  account  of  the  deplorable  state  to 
which  her  paws  were  reduced  by  the  visitation.  It  seems 
that  goats  are  the  only  small  quadrupeds  that  are  free 
from  these  disgusting  vermin,  all  our  informants  agreeing 
in  the  assurance  that  there  was  no  instance  of  one  of 
these  animals  being  attacked. 

The  temperature  during  the  last  few  days  had  sensibly 
risen,  more  especially  during  the  frequent  intervals  of 
calm  that  are  prevalent  in  Pungo  N'Dongo.  The  cliffs  are 
situated  in  a  zone  where  the  winds  are  liable  to  constant 
variation.  The  regularity  of  the  breezes  of  the  interior, 
blowing  from  the  south-east  or  north-west,  according  to 
the  period  of  the  year,  is  unknown  here,  and  it  is  too  dis- 
tant from  the  coast  to  be  influenced  by  the  sea-breezes. 
The  wind,  therefore,  constantly  shifting  from  south-east 
to  south-west,  and  at  times  to  north-west,  causes  in  the 
interim  besides  the  calm,  an  insufferable  heat,  that  is 
enough  to  knock  over  any  one  exposed  to  its  action. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  13th  of  September  we  were 
seated  at  the  entrance  of  our  little  tembe,  with  Master 


The  Staff  and  the  Pen .  211 

Jose  on  our  right,  busy  with,  his  needle,  the  lads  in 
front,  engaged  in  arranging  their  respective  packs,  and 
on  our  left  Capulca,  in  the  act  of  giving  the  last  culinary 
touches  to  a  roast  leg  of  mutton,  the  scent  from  which 
we  were  sniffing  preparatory  to  making  its  nearer 
acquaintance.  One  more  step,  as  it  were,  and  we  should 
be  at  the  ocean,  our  element,  whereon  as  boys  we  had 
spent  some  of  our  happiest  hours.  A  few  more  miles  and 
this  helmet  and  these  gaiters  would  cease  to  have  a 
raison  d'etre.  The  long  staff,  which  was  seldom  out  of 
our  hands,  would  have  to  be  thrown  aside  for  the  insig- 
nificantly small  steel  pen ;  we  should  have  to  exchange 
for  the  prattle  of  Jose  a  lot  of  scribbling  on  our  own 
account  whereby  to  transmit  to  the  public  the  impressions 
of  our  journey ;  and  at  the  thought  we  both  turned  pale  ! 

It  had  never  been  our  ambition  to  lay  before  the 
reading  world  our  sayings  or  our  doings ;  if  we  had  ever 
pondered  on  the  subject  at  all,  it  appeared  to  us  a  task 
above  our  strength  to  put  our  remarks  into  an  intelligible 
shape,  fit  for  the  perusal  of  men  of  science — and  we  feared 
that  our  attempts  to  do  so  must  fail.  Even  now  we  feel 
very  great  diffidence  as  to  whether  what  we  offer  will  be 
acceptable  in  their  sight,  but  we  have  plunged  in  too 
deeply  to  recede,  and  we  must  accept  the  fiat  of  our 
critics,  whatever  it  may  be. 

To  the  bustle  of  evening  succeeded  the  calm  ease  of 
night,  which  in  turn  gave  place  to  the  renewed  activity  of 
morning.  To  the  west  of  Pedras  Negras  the  track  runs 
directly  towards  the  sea,  taking  Capanda  by  the  way. 
But  as  we  deemed  it  of  moment  to  connect  our  present 
surveys  with  those  already  made  on  the  Cuanza,  we  de- 
cided upon  travelling  anew  to  the  southward,  that  we 
might  reach  the  river. 

It   was  on  the   14th  of  September,   at   daybreak,  with 

p  2 


212  West  and  Central  Africa. 

all  preparations  made  that  we  bade  adieu  to  our  good 
friend  and  cdmpanion  Captain  Silverio,  to  whom  the 
familiar  intercourse  of  several  months  had  strongly 
attached  us. 

"  Farewell,"  he  said*  in  a  faltering  tone;  "  Europe  is 
waiting  for  you,  and  will  know  how  to  recompense  your 
sufferings  and  appreciate  your  services.  You  have  richly 
earned  your  rest,  and  may  you  enjoy  it  to  the  full.  As  to 
me,  I  am  an  old  fellow,  and  can  never  hope  to  see  you 
again ;  the  only  rest  that  I  am  likely  to  find  is  in  the 
grave,  to  which  I  am  hastening." 

Dear,  kind  bid  man  !  Please  God,  your  gloomy  pre- 
sentiments will  not  be  speedily  verified,  but  in  the  com- 
pany of  your  wife  and  child  you  too  will  find  a  graceful 
repose^  most  truly  deserved  after  your  laborious  life  ! 

According  to  Jose's  assurance  we  were  not  likely  to  be 
much  harassed  On  the  road.  We  might  study  and  survey 
the  river  at  our  ease,  and  yet,  under  his  guidance,  reach 
Dondo  by  the  23rd  or  24th  of  September. 

Encouraged  by  the  promise,  we  moved  off  in  single  file 
to  the  left  of  the  stones,  passing  an  hour  at  Caughi,  a 
sort  of  fortified  villa,  the  property  of  an  old  gentleman, 
who  possessed  considerable  influence  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. We  found  it  abandoned,  owing  to  dissensions 
among  his  sons,  and  pretty  well  reduced  to  a  mass  of 
ruins. 

Following  the  track  that  continued  to  wind  through 
gloomy  forests,  we  camped  at  noon  on  the  bank  of  the 
Cuanza  opposite  a  place  called  Cabeto,  and  near  a  little 
waterfall.  But  we  had  scarcely  sat  down  when  we  were 
besieged  in  due  form  ;  and  we  say  it  advisedly,  never 
did  we  suffer  so  much  from  the  attacks  of  our  old 
enemies,  the  flies,  before.  It  was  impossible  to  rest,  to 
write,  to  do  anything  in  fact  but  use  strong  language  ! 


Lightning  Conductors.  213 

Strong  measures  were  not  a  bit  of  use,  and  although  with 
a  towel  round  our  head  and  another  in  our  hand,  we 
sacrificed  myriads  to  our  fury,  myriads  more  filled  up  the 
gaps  and  renewed  the  fight  with  increased  energy.  Smoke 
had  no  sort  of  effect  upon  the  wretches,  and  it  was  only 
with  the  appearance  of  night  that  the  combat  subsided, 
and  we  could  get  a  few  hours  of  absolutely  necessary 
rest. 

We  would  not  give  the  creatures  a  chance  to  re-com- 
mence hostilities  next  morning,  for  we  abandoned  the 
field  before  they  were  up,  and  pursued  our  way,  re- 
marking how  the  mountains  drew  away  from  the  river, 
while  the  stream,  widening  at  this  point,  gave  to  view  a 
portion  of  its  course,  and  then  soon  after  became 
involved  among  the  rocks  and  shoals  of  a  most  broken 
and  irregular  bed. 

Sanza  Manda  stood  upon  our  path,  where  enormous 
crumbling  barges  indicated  the  spot  at  which  in  former 
times  the  gangs  of  slaves  brought  from  beyond  the 
river  were  received,  to  be  subsequently  transhipped 
according  to  instructions. 

We  here  noticed  for  the  first  time  stuck  into  the  roofs 
of  the  huts  branches  of  the  n'dui,  known  to  science  by 
the  name  of  Decamera  tonantis,  and  that  the  natives  place 
there  to  serve  as  lightning  conductors.  It  is  not  impos- 
sible that  the  wood,  which  is  very  hard  and  a  good 
conductor,  might  be  of  service  if  properly  arranged  ;  but 
stuck  up  as  we  saw  it,  often  in  the  shape  of  a  fork, 
unpointed  and  ineffectually  connected  with  the  cupola  of 
the  building,  it  required  a  large  amount  of  faith  to  attach 
any  importance  to  the  contrivance.  We  fancy,  indeed, 
that  it  derived  its  value  in  the  eyes  of  the  natives  much 
more  from  fetishism  than  from  science,  and  that  like  the 
bottles  thrust  into  the  thatch,  which  attracted  our  notice 


214  West  and  Central  Africa. 

on  former  occasions,  it  was  used  for  the  purpose  of 
scaring  away  evil  influences. 

Returning  to  Capanda,  as  we  observed  that  it  was 
almost  impracticable  to  continue  further  along  the  bank 
of  the  river  in  that  direction,  we  crossed  that  splendid 
chain  of  granite  mountains,  among  which  it  is  averred 
there  exist  trachytes  or  volcanic  rocks  that  would,  if 
visible,  be  of  the  utmost  interest  to  geologists. 

The  land  then  gradually  subsided,  vegetation  became 
less  dense,  grass  more  abundant,  and  from  the  midst  of 
it  sprang  samples  of  the  baobab  (that  reminded  one  of 
giant  bottles  of  champagne),  exotic  palms,  and  colossal 
Eriodendron,  with  a  straight  trunk,  partly  covered  by  the 
branches  of  the  n'burututo  (Gochlospermum  cmgolensis) 
displaying  their  yellow  flowers,  Erithrinas  with  red 
berries,  and  other  plants,  peopled  with  birds,  some  of 
which  had  adorned  the  branches  with  rows  of  pendent 
nests,  whereof  one  bough,  as  we  counted,  had  no  fewer 
than  forty-seven  ! 

Among  the  feathered  tribe  most  worthy  of  mention 
figures  the  n'gunguachito,  a  sort  of  toucan,  known  as  the 
Bucorax  coffer  (Boa),  or  the  wood-turkey,  more  bulky 
than  its  compeer  in  Europe,  with  a  long  beak,  crimson 
feathers  on  the  fore  part  of  the  neck,  and  a  long  tail. 
The  more  lofty  trees  were  full  of  these  birds,  each 
perching,  or  flying  with  its  mate,  like  the  turtle-doves. 
They  are  difficult  to  shoot,  owing  to  the  height  at  which 
they  perch  and  their  having  a  sentinel  always  on  the 
look-out,  wrho  gives  a  warning  co  cd,  at  the  first  glimpse 
of  danger,  as  a  signal  for  them  to  clear  out. 

There  is  another  bird,  a  very  interesting  one,  some- 
what similar  to  the  European  cuckoo,  called  the  Scopus 
umbretta  (Gmelin)  and  nick-named  the  kidnapper.  We 
were  informed  that  it  never  made  a  nest  for  itself,  but 


E  mp  a  cace  iros .  215 

when  it  required  one,  pried  about  till  it  found  a  residence 
to  its  mind,  which  was  then  and  there  appropriated. 

Finally,  we  met  with  the  Buphaga  erythrorrhyncha 
(Stanley)  or  Tanagra  erytUvorvliyncJia,  which  feeds  on  the 
vermin  engendered  on  the  hide  of  cows  and  oxen,  where 
it  may  be  seen  busily  engaged,  and  subsequently 
abstracting  for  the  service  rendered  the  hair  it  requires 
for  the  formation  of  its  nest. 

Many  other  birds  known  by  the  names  of  bigodes, 
freiras,  and  viuvas  (moustaches,  nuns,  and  widows)  are 
seen  flying  in  abundance,  and  the  catching  and  conveying 
them  to  the  coast  for  sale  constitute  an  important  trade. 

The  number  of  caravans  we  saw  upon  our  track,  both 
coming  and  going,  was  very  remarkable.  Scarcely  an 
hour  ever  intervened  without  our  meeting  with,  or  being 
passed  by,  dozens  of  negroes  well  laden.  Oil  seemed  to 
be  the  staple  article  they  carried ;  but  there  was  a  good 
deal  of  india-rubber,  some  ivory,  and  a  lot  of  ginguba 
done  up  in  sacks. 

The  long  marches  made  by  some  of  these  negroes  in 
the  interior,  more  especially  by  those  engaged  in  the 
post-office  service,  are  really  worthy  of  note.  With  a 
gun  over  the  shoulder,  and  a  mu-canda  on  a  stick,  they 
bowl  aloug  at  a  swinging  pace,  and  cover  their  forty 
miles  a  day.  A  porter,  a  sort  of  empacaceiro,  assured 
us  that  he  had  gone  on  one  special  occasion  from  Pun  go 
N'Dongo  to  Loanda,  in  the  space  of  three  days,  and  had 
returned  to  his  point  of  departure  within  the  same 
time  ! 

While  we  are  on  the  subject  of  empacaceiros,  we  beg  to 
present  to  our  readers  the  portrait  of  one  from  Quissama, 
and  add  a  few  words  by  way  of  dissipating  the  strange 
idea  that  has  been  formed  of  these  men  in  the  old 
country.     People  there  have  conceived  the  notion,   and 


2l6 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


some  have  set  it  down  in  writing,  that  the  empacaceiros 
constituted  in  former  days  a  sort  of  secret  association, 
organized  to  put  an  end  to  cannibalism.  We  could  learn 
nothing  at  Angola,  in  answer  to  our  inquiries,  that  cor- 
roborated this  in  any  way.  As  to  themselves  they  have 
no  conception  of  such  a  thing.     From  the   outset  they 


'JM 


EMPACACE1RO    OP    QUISSAMA. 

appear  to  have  been  hunters  of  the  m'pacafa  or  buffalo, 
whence  they  derive  their  name,  and  from  their  bold 
habits  of  life  were  of  powerful  assistance  in  all  journeys 
into  the  interior.  On  this  account  they  were  employed 
in  the  post-office  service,  and  as  guides  to  caravans, 
until,  little  by  little,  a  quantity  of  them  became  enrolled 


A  Ban-gala  Caravan.  217 

by  the  Portuguese  Government  into  a  corps,  employed 
in  the  services  above  alluded  to. 

Of  late  years  they  have  become  dispersed,  and  curious 
to  relate  it  is  in  the  Quissama,  where  cannibalism  is  far 
from  unknown  at  the  present  day,  that  empacaceiros  are 
still  to  be  found.  The  long  lazzarina  gun  shows  by  the 
skin  rings  which  adorn  its  barrel  the  number  of  animals 
it  has  laid  low.  Wrapped  in  a  wretched  cloth,  they  carry 
about  them  all  articles  that  are  required  in  the  wood,  and 
ornament  their  heads  either  with  a  bunch  of  feathers  or 
two  or  three  horns,  which  give  them  a  devil-may-care 
appearance.  And  in  this  guise,  or  merely  armed  with  an 
assagai,  the  empacaceiro  will  wander  alone  through 
forests  and  savannas,  feeding  on  roots,  sleeping  in  the 
trees,  doing  battle  with  beasts  of  prey,  and  not  unfre- 
quently  a  prisoner  for  days  together  on  the  summit  of 
some  tall  baobab,  where  he  has  sought  a  refuge  from 
inundations  or  the  incursions  of  buffaloes. 

Among  the  caravans  to  which  we  have  alluded  was 
one  composed  of  Ban-gala  men,  at  the  hands  of  whose 
connexions  we  had  experienced  that  peculiar  reception 
alluded  to  in  the  first  volume  when  we  attempted  to 
cross  the  Cuango,  and  of  whom,  in  consequence,  we  had 
retained  so  vivid  a  recollection. 

Being  encamped  near  us,  we  took  the  opportunity  of 
renewing  our  acquaintance,  for  we  found  them  as  quiet  as 
lambs  under  present  circumstances  and  that  they  had,  or 
pretended  to  have,  no  knowledge  of  what  had  occurred 
on  that  occasion.  They  had  come,  they  said,  from  the 
Lubuco  or  Luba  territory,  about  which  we  made  sundry 
inquiries.  We  were  disappointed,  however,  in  getting 
anything  out  of  them.  They  were  either  mute  as  fishes 
or  dealt  only  in  monosyllables.  What  we  particularly 
wanted  to  learn  was  information  respecting  the  great 


2 1 8  West  and  Central  Afrit 


ica. 


lake  of  Quifanjimbo,  whether  it  had  any  canoes  and 
whether  the  tribes  that  resided  on  its  borders  were 
dwarfs.  To  all  our  inquiries  they  answered  yes,  although 
we  made  a  sketch  of  one  so  as  to  make  our  meaning  more 
intelligible.  Like  most  negroes,  however,  they  had  no 
comprehension  whatever  of  drawing,  and  as  to  perspective, 
it  was  of  course  an  unknown  art.  They  were  so  little 
able  to  recognize  a  figure  when  put  before  them  in  black 
and  white,  that  they  turned  the  paper  about  in  every 
direction,  and  seemed  to  understand  it  just  as  well  upside 
down  as  in  any  other  position.  Where  a  mere  bust  was 
concerned  they  did  not  seem  to  recognize  that  it  belonged 
to  a  human  figure  at  all,  and  we  had  not  paper  enough 
to  make  a  cartoon  of  life-size,  to  see  whether  that  would 
have  been  more  intelligible  to  their  understanding. 

This  circumstance  convinced  us  of  the  impossibility  of 
untutored  men  seizing  an  idea  for  which  their  minds  had 
not  been  previously  prepared.  And  yet  they  themselves 
executed  a  few  rude  works  of  art  that  must  of  necessity 
have  required  a  certain  study  and  reflection.  They 
carved  on  their  weapons  and  on  many  of  their  instruments 
fio*ures  of  animals  and  of  men,  and  in  the  latter  case 
marked  with  precision  the  characteristics  of  the  black 
race  ;  so  that  one  was  at  a  loss  to  comprehend  how  it  was 
that  they  could  make  a  doll  to  serve  as  a  fetish  and  yet 
could  not  recognize  a  delineation  of  that  same  doll  exe- 
cuted by  more  skilful  hands  and  approximating  much 
nearer  to  the  human  form. 

These  caravans,  when  upon  the  march,  offer  to  the 
eyes  of  the  curious  traveller  an  infinity  of  strange 
articles  that  are  well  worthy  his  attention,  and  more 
especially  those  referable  to  personal  adornment.  All 
negroes,  with  very  few  exceptions,  are  fond  of  ornament, 
and  the  head  receives  a  great  deal  of  attention  at  their 


Personal  Adornment.  2 1 9 

hands.  The  Ban -gala  push  this  mania  to  an  excess. 
The  long  tresses  of  their  hair  are  intertwined  with  beads, 
shells,  and  bands  or  plates  of  metal,  and  are  otherwise 
converted  into  structures  that  occupy  entire  weeks  in 
their  fabrication.  On  the  other  hand,  when  once  done, 
they  remain  untouched  for  months,  being  merely  anointed 
in  the  interval  with  abundance  of  palm  oil ! 

Feathers  and  skins  are  indispensable  articles  of  their 
attire,  although  the  material  they  use  to  set  oil"  their 
charms  appears  to  be  matter  of  little  moment.  Stones, 
shells,  brass  and  iron  equally  serve  their  turn,  and 
copper  wire,  or  a  human  tooth  is  alike  turned  to  account. 
The  rage  for  adornment  does  not  spare  their  flesh. 
Some  pierce  their  ears,  others  the  membrane  of  the 
nose ;  while  another  will  drive  a  red-hot  iron  through 
the  cartilage  in  order  to  introduce  a  piece  of  carved 
wood  into  the  orifice,  which  seems  to  produce  no  other 
effect  than  to  interfere  with  natural  cleanliness  and  make 
the  breathing  difficult.  Tattooing  or  branding  the  body 
is  also  coming  into  use  amongst  them,  the  process  being 
borrowed  from  the  Luba  and  even  further  to  the  north- 
east, where  the  practice  appears  to  be  common. 

At  the  close  of  our  interview  with  these  people,  from 
whom  we  had  derived  so  little  satisfactory  information, 
they  retired  to  a  neighbouring  thicket,  where  they  had 
established  their  quilombo,  and  spent  the  remainder  of 
the  evening  and  great  part  of  the  night  round  their 
fires  smoking  their  eternal  pipes.  As  to  eating,  that  was 
an  operation  we  did  not  see  one  of  them  perform. 

It  is  remarkable  how  these  men  can,  during  journeys 
of  such  duration,  bear  up  against  the  fatigue  of  long 
marches,  under  heavy  loads,  with  little  or  no  food ! 
They  will  go  dozens  of  leagues  with  the  utmost  indifference, 
with  a  manioc  root  in  their  girdle,  and  sometimes   not 


220  West  and  Central  Africa. 

even  that,  getting  a  drink  here,  a  smoke  there,  and 
occasionally  a  handful  of  flour.  It  is  difficult  to  ex- 
aggerate the  miserable  existence  of  many  of  the  natives 
on  these  perilous  journeys,  where,  in  case  of  illness  or 
accident,  they  are  liable  to  be  abandoned  to  their  fate. 
In  the  very  caravan  to  which  we  have  alluded  there  was 
a  sad  confirmation  of  this  remark.  Two  brothers  had 
started  with  it  together  for  the  Luba  ;  but  one  of  them, 
suffering  from  ulcers  and  dysentery,  was  compelled  to 
give  up  the  journey,  so  the  brother  and  his  companions 
divided  his  load  among  them,  and  left  the  unfortunate  on 
the  road-side,  either  to  perish  or  be  made  a  slave  by  the 
first  party  who  fell  in  with  him. 

On  the  1 5th  we  halted  at  the  Sengue,  where  the  Cuanza 
has  two  cascades,  Quissaquina  Caboco  and  mv/pa  Palanca, 
in  the  midst  of  arid  land,  whose  very  aspect  made  one 
hot;  on  the  16th  we  were  at  Muta,  and  next  day  arrived 
after  many  a  stiff  climb  over  rocky  hills  at  Nhangue-ia- 
Pepe,  where  we  camped  near  a  senzala  surrounded  by 
masses  of  euphorbias,  intending  on  the  18th  to  visit  the 
cataract  in  the  neighbourhood. 

On  our  way  thither  we  found  a  perfect  forest  of 
mahogany  trees,  and  the  appearance  of  the  falls,  when 
we  reached  them,  struck  us  as  very  fine.  The  narrow 
defile  through  which  the  Cuanza  rushes,  widens  at  that 
spot,  as  if  to  allow  the  escape  of  the  river,  which  may  be 
there  about  a  hundred  feet  across.  The  water,  falling  to 
a  depth  of  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet,  dashes  wildly  over 
the  stones  that  intercept  its  passage,  in  a  westerly 
direction,  though  the  stream  is  shortly  turned  aside  by 
the  projecting  foot  of  a  mount,  from  which  escaping  it 
enters  a  gorge  formed  by  the  Serra  Cassasio  in  the 
district  of  the  N'hongos.  We  contemplated  the  cataract 
from   the   precipitous   bank  on  the  right   of  the  river, 


Formidable  Obstructions.  221 

wliich  was  so  lofty  that  it  was  with  difficulty  we  could 
distinguish  a  man  engaged  in  fishing  on  the  brink. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  add,  after  the  foregoing 
description,  that  the  river  is  not  navigable,  and  that 
from  this  spot  to  the  Dondo  it  could  not  be  under  any 
circumstances  on  account  of  the  formidable  obstacles 
presented  by  its  bed. 

Having  taken  the  bearings  and  made  the  other 
necessary  surveys,  we  returned  to  our  camp,  more  dead 
than  alive  from  fever.  The  state  of  bodily  weakness  to 
which  we  were  both  reduced  was  becoming  grave. 
During  the  last  few  days  we  could  eat  little  or  nothing, 
and  as  a  general  rule,  fever  intervened  almost  immediately 
after  our  principal  meal  at  three  o'clock,  which  prevented 
the  food  remaining  on  the  stomach.  The  consequence  was, 
we  became  weaker  and  weaker,  and  it  was  evident  that 
the  moment  had  arrived  to  terminate  an  undertaking 
that  our  strength  would  no  longer  enable  us  to  carry  on. 

Pursuing  our  journey,  we  met  with  a  most  serious 
obstacle  between  the  stations  of  Pungo  N'Dongo  and 
Dondo,  and  which  will,  as  we  fancy,  give  the  engineers  of 
the  railroad  it  is  proposed  to  construct  no  end  of  trouble. 
It  takes  the  shape  of  certain  lofty  serras  standing  at 
right  angles  to  the  track  and  completely  barring  it  from 
north  to  south.  Even  the  black  engineer  (if  we  may  so 
call  him),  who  is  wonderfully  acute  in  avoiding  difficulties 
in  the  formation  of  his  paths,  had  no  alternative  here 
but  to  cross  the  mountains  in  a  direct  line,  so  as  to  gain 
the  western  side. 

On  reaching  Danje-ia-Menha,  we  again  camped,  for 
we  were  suffering  so  badly  from  fever  that  we  could  go 
no  further.  But  this  was  not  the  worst  of  our  com- 
plaints. Our  scorbutic  sores  had  increased  to  such  a 
pitch  that  it   was  perfect  torture   to  walk    at  all.     Our 


222  West  and  Central  Africa, 

gums,  which  were  highly  inflamed  and  spongy,  bled 
freely  at  intervals  ;  a  painful  feeling  of  utter  fatigue  had 
taken  possession  of  us,  and  our  legs  would  scarce  support 
our  bodies  though  they  were  many  pounds  lighter  than 
when  in  a  state  of  health.  Nor  could  we  conceal  from 
ourselves  that  our  mental  faculties  were  weakening  with 
the  weakness  of  the  body,  so  that  the  calculation  of  the 
simplest  latitude  caused  us  hoars  of  depression.  It 
was,  in  fact,  the  advent  of  anaemia  with  that  infinity  of 
symptoms  nowadays  more  or  less  known,  and  which  are 
the  reverse  of  pleasant  to  experience. 

Having  devoted  the  remainder  of  the  day  to  treating 
our  complicated  maladies,  we  lay  down  to  rest,  though 
we  rose  again  with  Phoebus  on  the  20th  September,  and 
with  the  aid  of  our  staves  hobbled  forth  once  more  upon 
the  road. 

We  had  just  crossed  one  or  two  little  rivulets  and  left 
behind  us  a  group  of  huts  called  Cassoque,  when  we 
sighted,  coming  towards  us,  a  numerous  caravan,  which 
we  judged  from  such  loads  as  sealed  cases,  new  trunks, 
and  articles  of  a  similar  character,  to  be  headed  by  an 
European.  The  vanguard,  on  being  questioned,  con- 
firmed our  suspicion,  and  in  a  few  minutes,  on  turning  a 
corner,  we  came  in  sight  of  a  couple  of  white  men,  one  of 
whom  appeared  to  be  the  chief. 

He  was  a  man  of  medium  stature,  strongly  built,  of  a 
florid  complexion,  with  a  fair  beard,  wearing  a  light  coat 
and  a  broad-brimmed  hat. 

His  manner  was  so  frank  that,  although  we  suspected 
he  might  be  one  of  those  proud  and  taciturn  sons  of 
Great  Britain,  we  ventured  to  break  the  silence  as  we 
met,  and  therefore  saluted  him  with  the  customary 
"  good  morning." 


Von  Mechow.  223 

From  his  reply  we  soon  discovered  that  our  language 
was  not  very  familiar  to  him ;  still,  by  dint  of  patience 
and  pauses  in  between  we  managed  to  comprehend  each 
other. 

We  then  learned  that  it  was  Yon  Mechow,  the  Ger- 
man explorer,  coming  from  Loanda  and  proceeding  to 
Malange,  where  he  intended  organizing  a  caravan,  and, 
by  the  aid  of  a  boat  he  had  with  him,  descending  the 
Cuango  to  its  embouchure  in  the  Zaire,  and  making  a 
complete  survey  of  the  river.  The  conveyance  of  his 
baggage  and  boat  had  given  the  illustrious  traveller  no 
little  trouble  owing  to  the  want  of  capable  carriers  and 
men  who  were  willing  to  render  him  any  assistance.  His 
own  determination  had,  however,  carried  him  through, 
and  in  the  best  possible  spirits  he  was  disposed  to  seek 
Fortune's  favours. 

Having  in  few  words  narrated  to  him  some  of  the 
difficulties  we  had  encountered,  and  which  Von  Mechow 
did  not  appear  to  appreciate  to  their  full  extent,  and 
referred  to  the  Jinga,  its  inhabitants,  our  sufferings  in  the 
interior  from  fever,  thirst,  and  what  not,  we  gave  each 
other  a  hearty  shake  by  tbe  hand  and  parted — he,  fresh 
for  the  fray;  we  retiring,  full  of  wounds,  but  not 
entirely  defeated,  from  the  field. 

We  next  camped  at  Bungo  and  had  another  night  of 
fever.  We  found  our  elevation  to  be  915  feet,  so  that 
we  should  very  shortly  reach  the  sea-level. 

How  great  was  the  difference  in  the  temperature,  in 
the  pressure,  and  in  the  air  we  breathed  !  The  fresh 
south-easter  of  the  high  table-land,  which  made  the 
vault  of  heaven  clear  as  a  bell,  seemed  to  cut  us  through. 
Now,  there  was  a  heavy,  murky  atmosphere  announcing 
the  proximity  of  the  ocean,  by  the  accumulation  of  vapour 


24 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


along 


the     extensive 


which    the    sea-breeze    gathered 
territory  of  the  littoral. 

Night  fell,  the  mountains  that  surrounded  us,  and 
that  had  passed  through  a  variety  of  tints  with  declining 
day,  now  wore  another  aspect  beneath  a  moon  in  her 
first  quarter.  We  were  ill  at  ease ;  compelled  to  abstain 
almost  entirely  from  food  owing  to  the  state  of  the  stomach 


THE    TIPOIA    OF    ANGOLA. 


and  mouth,  whilst  the  fever  was  rampant  in  us.  It  was 
the  last  time  that,  wrapped  in  our  leopards'  skins,  we 
slept  after  the  manner  of  the  woods  and  wilds  ;  for  we 
were  on  the  threshold  of  civilization. 

With  the  dawn  of  day  we  resumed  our  journey,  but 
this  time  we  were  compelled  to  have  recourse  to  the 
tqjola.     Our    track   hugged  the    southern    slope  of  the 


In  Sight  of  Dondo.  225 

serra  Luena,  and  ran  over  very  broken  ground,  inter- 
rupted by  ravines  ;  small  streams  ran  murmuring  through 
them  on  their  tortuous  way  to  the  Cuanza,  which  in  a 
mountainous  region  tumbles  near  Cambambe  in  the  shape 
of  the  Cabulo  cataract,  the  last  obstacle  it  meets  with  in 
its  long  and  boisterous  course  ere  reaching  the  ocean. 

Resting  for  some  minutes  under  the  shade  of  one  of 
the  baobabs,  we  cast  a  glance  back  upon  those  eastern 
lands  we  were  now  leaving,  and  then  once  more  took  to 
the  road. 

On  quitting  the  wood  we  observed  with  some  emotion 
first  one,  then  two,  and  subsequently  many  telegraphic 
poles,  the  symbols  of  progress,  whereby  we  were  again 
to  be  brought  within  the  pale  of  civilization. 

Passing  the  Pambos,  a  point  where  many  roads  meet, 
and  where  a  considerable  number  of  natives  were  met 
together  in  a  permanent  quitanda  or  fair,  we  sighted,  at 
half-past  eleven,  the  silver  line  of  the  Cuanza,  which 
meandered  through  the  extensive  plateau  and  glistened 
in  the  sun.  It  was  the  same  river  we  had  met  with  so 
near  its  place  of  birth,  at  that  time,  narrow,  compara- 
tively sluggish,  with  sandy  banks,  and  which,  gradually 
absorbing  a  host  of  minor  streams  as  it  ran  on,  now 
appeared  before  us,  so  broad  and  so  majestic. 

Through  the  openings  of  the  broken  ground  we  caught 
sight  of  the  dull  old  town  of  Dondo,  set  in  a  thicket  of 
palms  and  cocoa-trees,  and  then  we  knew  our  mission 
was  at  an  end. 

Finally,  at  mid -day,  on  the  slope  of  a  hill,  we  came  to 
a  halt  to  receive  and  salute  the  European  gentleman  who 
had  there  come  out  to  meet  us.  It  was  Duarte  Silva,  an 
officer  of  the  Portuguese  army,  one  of  the  distinguished 
and  indefatigable  members  of  the  important  commission 
sent  by  the  Government  to  Africa,  to  carry  out  certain 

Vi)L,.    II.  Q 


226  West  and  Central  Africa. 

special  public  works,  who  had  perceived  us  from  his 
villa,  and  hastened  to  bid  us  welcome. 

The  news  of  our  arrival  soon  spread,  and  many  other 
friends  and  acquaintances  were  shortly  about  us,  eager 
with  congratulations,  invitations,  and  offers  of  service, 
and  with  whom  we  subsequently  passed  many  agreeable 
hours. 

Within  a  day  or  two  of  our  settling  down,  the  com- 
mercial corporation  of  Dondo  gave  us  a  banquet,  where 
we  had  the  pleasure  to  be  presented  to  each  individual 
member  of  that  body,  who  with  great  courtesy  and  kind- 
ness showered  us  with  favours  and  praise. 

"We  would  fain,  ere  our  return,  have  abandoned  the 
course  of  the  Cuanza,  and  travelled  northwards  to  the 
valley  of  the  Bengo,  continuing  our  route  subsequently 
by  land  to  the  capital  of  the  province.  But,  by  the 
advice  of  our  friend,  we  gave  up  the  project,  seeing  that 
the  state  of  our  health  was  not  such  as  to  make  it 
prudent  to  attempt  any  fresh  adventures — and  deter- 
mined to  make  the  best  of  our  way  to  the  sea.1 

1  During  our  voyage  we  made  all  the  observations  in  our  power 
respecting  the  river. 

The  basin  of  the  Cuanza  is  an  immense  plain  of  loose  and  muddy 
soil,  formed  by  the  action  of  the  waters,  of  extreme  fertility,  whose 
power  of  producing  sugar-cane,  owing  to  that  cause  and  to  the  amount  of 
disposable  labour,  would  be  almost  unlimitable  if  the  difficulty  of  the 
pestilent  climate  could  only  be  got  over. 

The  whole  of  the  region  is  intersected  by  watercourses,  and  abounds 
with  lakes,  which,  from  their  position,  do  not  allow  any  effective  drain- 
age, and  therefore  help  to  form  permanent  marshes. 

The  traveller  therefore  who  traverses  the  river's  banks,  finds  that 
after  the  efforts  of  years  but  one  plantation,  at  the  spot  known  as  Bom 
Jesus,  and  a  couple  of  dozen  paltry  senzalas,  where  the  natives  are  con- 
stantly struggling  against  the  influence  of  the  climate,  have  survived  the 
ordeal. 

The  Cuanza  is  so  important  a  highway  into  the  interior  that  it 
ought  under  no  circumstances  to  be  disregarded,  as  we   are  under  the 


Embarked.  227 

On  the  11th  of  October,  therefore,  we  embarked  on 
board  the  steamer  Silua  Americano,  on  the  route  to 
Cunga,  and  we  take  this  opportunity  of  thanking  her 
commander,  Antonio  de  Sousa,  for  the  consideration  and 
kindness  he  showed  us  on  the  voyage. 

From  Cunga,  a  larger  steamer  conveyed  us  to  Loanda,2 
at  which  port  we  arrived  on  the  13th  of  October,  1879, 
and  where  we  met,  at  the  hands  of  H.E.  Counsellor 
Vasco  Guedes  de  Carvalho  eMenezes,  the  then  Governor- 
General,  the  most  friendly  reception  and  the  most 
delicate  attentions. 


impression  that  with  very  modest  resources  and  by  means  of  a  careful 
survey  of  its  waters,  it  might  at  all  seasons  be  made  perfectly  naviga- 
ble by  steamers  of  the  draught  and  tonnage  of  the  Silva  Americano. 

At  four  or  five  points  it  is  at  the  present  time  more  or  less  impeded  ; 
but  if  these  places  can  be  got  over  by  the  natives  by  floating  their 
canoes  through  side  channels,  it  is  clear  that  the  work  of  drainage  must 
be  of  the  simplest  kind,  since  a  man  with  a  shovel  is  capable  alone  of 
removing  in  great  part  the  obstacles  presented. 

The  bar  ought  certainly  to  be  made  the  subject  of  a  speedy  and 
special  survey,  for  should  it  be  much  longer  delayed,  the  difficulty 
that  may  now  be  surmounted,  may  become  in  future  all  but  impossible 
to  vanquish. 

2  The  city  of  St.  Paul  da  Assumpcao  de  Loanda,  built  on  the  northern 
slope  of  the  high  land  which  terminates  at  the  sea  by  Mount  St. 
Miguel,  is  composed  of  one  high  and  another  lower  portion,  bearing 
respectively  the  names  of  upper  and  lower  town. 

The  native  quarters  are  at  the  back  of  the  city,  as  for  instance  the 
Sanga-n'dombe  and  N'gombota,  and  there  are  numerous  farms  which 
are  styled  musseques. 

The  internal  population  does  not  exceed  9000  souls,  divided  into 
3500  male  adults  and  3000  women;  of  children  there  are  1200  males 
aud  1300  females. 

The  European  population  represents  at  most  1100,  whereof  two- 
thirds  are  convicts. 

The  musseques  contain  2000  inhabitants,  and  the  suburbs  and 
island  2350  ;  so  that  the  gross  population  amounts  to  some  13,350, 
all  told. 

Q    2 


2&  West  and  Central  Africa. 

Our  journey,  therefore,  from  the  capital  until  our 
return  to  the  coast,  had  lasted  exactly  729  days  ! 

At  Loanda  we  were  received,  with  the  whole  of  our 
caravan,  in  the  house  of  Sr.  Manuel  Raphael  Gorjao? 
In  spec  tor- General  of  the  public  w^orks  of  Angola,  of 
whose  noble  hospitality  we  cannot  say  too  much.  To 
the  efforts  and  activity  of  that  gentleman  are  due  all  the 
improvements  that  the  province  at  this  time  enjoys, 
improvements  which  reveal  the  broad  intelligence  of  that 
able  official,  who,  estimating  with  a  just  sense  the  neces- 
sities of  the  country,  has  succeeded,  by  dint  of  hard 
labour,  in  securing  to  the  province,  within  the  short 
space  of  three  years,  an  extensive  telegraphic  line,  an 
ample  establishment  admirably  mounted,  a  hospital, 
meteorological  stations,  and  a  technical  school;  has 
definitely  surveyed  a  line  of  railway  over  a  space  of  156 
miles,  and  opened  into  the  interior  a  considerable 
number  of  roads,  among  which  we  may  mention  that  of 
Cacuaco,  another  from  Dondo  to  Caculo,  a  surprising 
piece  of  engineering,  and  another  again  to  Biballa. 

Many  pleasant  days  were  passed  in  his  residence, 
marked  by  a  genial  conviviality  that  we  shall  not  readily 
forget. 

A  banquet  was  also  given  to  us  by  the  Trade  Asso- 
ciation of  Loanda,  at  which  H.E.  the  Governor  and  the 
entire  commercial  body  were  present,  and  where  we 
were  flattered  by  further  commendations  of  our  toils  and 
fatigues. 

We  must  not  forget  in  the  enumeration  of  persons 
from  whom  we  received  untiring  attention,  our  excellent 
friends,  Jose  Bernardino,  the  then  Secretary-General 
Joaquim  Salles  Ferreira,  Francisco  Salles  Ferreira, 
Guilherme  Gomes  Coelho,  Miguel  Tobin,  the  worthy 
representative  of  the  Banco  Ultramarine,  Jose  Maria  do 


Friendly  Meetings.  229 

Prado,    J.    Newton,   Dr.    OKveira,   Dr.    Lopes,   Miranda 
Henriques,  Urbano  de  Castro,  and  many  others. 

Having  deeided  upon  making  a  trip  to  Mossamedes, 
where  a  more  genial  climate  would  assist  us  in  the  task 
of  arranging  our  notes  and  re-establishing  our  health, 
we  started  with  the  least  possible  delay  on  board  the 
steamer  Zaire,  commanded  by  Pedro  de  Almeida  Tito, 
who  received  us  with  the  same  kindness  as  heretofore. 

On  the  very  eve  of  our  departure,  we  were  delighted 
at  the  appearance  of  our  old  friend  Avelino  Fernandes, 
with  whom  Stanley,  Serpa  Pinto,  and  ourselves,  passed 
such  a  pleasant  time  prior  to  setting  out  upon  our  journey. 
He  was  a  charming  young  fellow,  full  of  life,  intelligence, 
and  high  spirits,  and  greatly  inclined  to  works  of  explor- 
ation. He  had  been,  it  appears,  most  active  on  our 
behalf,  and  learning  that  we  were  beset  with  difficulties 
in  the  interior,  he  had  actually  formed  a  plan  of  starting 
to  our  assistance,  and  was  only  deterred  on  more  favour- 
able news  coming  to  hand.  He  had  that  moment 
arrived  from  Vivi,  where  he  had  been  with  Stanley, 
admiring  the  herculean  work  undertaken  by  that  man  of 
iron  temperament,  and  had  started  off  at  once  to  see  us 
on  hearing  of  our  return. 

We  spent  a  couple  of  months  at  Mossamedes  in 
company  of  the  intelligent  band  of  young  men  who  were 
at  that  time  fulfilling  important  offices  in  connexion  with 
the  public  works,  and  from  whom  we  received  so  many 
proofs  of  friendship  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  find 
words  wherewith  to  thank  them. 

A\re  now  began  to  breathe  more  freely.  The  splendid 
climate  of  Mossamedes,  the  succulent  food,  prepared  in 
the  European  fashion,  soon  restored  our  exhausted 
frame,  which  regular  and  moderate  work  considerably 
assisted. 


23° 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


It  was  now  time,  we  thought,  to  turn  our  steps  home- 
wards, and  towards  the  end  of  January,  having  taken 
our  last  farewells,  we  repaired  on  board  the  steamer 
Benguella,  under  the  command  of  our  esteemed  friend, 
Captain  Jose  Roberto  Franco. 

We  have  thus  laid  before  our  readers  the  particulars 
of  the  two  years'  campaign  in  Africa  we  had  the 
honour  to  direct,  and  we  trust  they  will  pardon  our 
boldness  in  having  done  so  under  the  exaggerated  form 
of  two  volumes  in  octavo.  We  ought  perhaps  here,  pro- 
perly, to  bring  our  long  story  to  a  close,  but  loth  to  part 
company  with  those  whose  indulgence  has  led  them 
thus  far,  we  venture  to  add  a  few  more  words  in  the 
shape  of  a  conclusion. 


THE    VOYAGE    HOME. 


CONCLUSION. 

We  deem  it  advisable,  by  way  of  conclusion  to  the 
present  work,  to  exhibit  in  the  shape  of  a  summary  the 
most  important  particulars  of  our  surveys  and  experience, 
believing  that  they  will  be  more  useful  in  that  form  to 
persons  whom  they  interest  than  if  found  scattered 
through  the  volumes.  As,  however,  the  limits  imposed 
to  the  work  and  a  just  apprehension  of  becoming  tedious 
will  not  permit  of  too  great  prolixity,  we  will  touch  as 
lightly  upon  the  chief  topics  as  a  clear  intelligence  of 
facts  will  allow. 

Beginning  with  the  subject  of  geology  we  may  remark 
that  the  physical  configuration  of  the  African  continent, 
and  more  especially  of  the  portion  south  of  the  equator,  is 
nowadays  too  well  known  to  require  minute  description. 
]t  may  be  summed  up  in  these  few  words:  a  depressed 
central  basin  surrounded  by  a  vast  circle  of  high  land, 
gradually  descending  to  the  sea,  and  rent  by  deep 
ravines,  through  wdiich  rush  huge  watercourses,  en- 
gendered in  the  interior,  till  they  overflow  and  seek  the 
lower  level  fronting  the  ocean. 

From  a  very  general  geological  point  of  view  we  may 
define  the  regions  running  from  the  littoral  to  the  interior 
in  the  following  order,  viz.,  lime-stone,  sand-stone,  and 
granite.  But  on  going  more  minutely  into  the  subject, 
wTe  shall  find  that  these  distinctions  are  not  very  exact ;  in- 
asmuch as  the  component  parts  frequently  run  into  each 


232  West  and  Central  Africa. 

other  and  change  places,  while  precise  lines  of  demarca- 
tion are  wanting. 

The  geological  formation  on  the  western  coast  at  the 
points  observed  by  ns  between  Loanda  and  Mossamedes, 
and  even  fnrther  to  the  north,  exhibits  generally  near 
the  sea  a  belt  of  tertiary  deposits,  with  abundant  masses 
of  sulphate  of  lime  and  sand- stone,  from  which  they  are 
separated  by  beds  of  white  chalk  alternating  with  primary 
rocks,  for  the  most  part  gneiss,  abounding  in  quartz, 
mica,  hornblende,  granite,  and  granulated  porphyry. 

Towards  the  south,  large  tracts  of  feldspar  become 
visible. 

At  Mossamedes,  whole  mountains  are  composed  of 
sulphate  of  lime  ;  while  carbonate  of  lime,  accumulated 
in  shells,  is  very  frequent.  Both  rock  salt  and  nitrate 
of  potash  are  found  in  stratification. 

Along  the  Mocambe  chain,  we  were  informed,  there 
exists  a  basaltic  line  of  great  length.  From  that  point 
the  shifting  soil  may  be  said  to  commence,  extremely 
abundant  in  sand,  constituting  true  saharas,  as  in  the 
parallel  of  Tiger  Bay. 

In  the  transition  from  the  lower  zone  towards  the 
interior,  for  instance  at  Dondo,  vast  tracts  of  schist 
rock,  in  perfect  laminae,  compose  the  soil;  and  sand- 
stone, reddened  by  oxyde  of  iron,  is  visible  in  every 
direction.  Proceeding  further  into  the  interior  we  find, 
in  a  perfectly  mountainous  region,  the  ground  to  be  com- 
posed of  granite-quartzy  rock,  extremely  hard  and 
compact ;  this  is  the  case  throughout  the  belt  crossed 
on  the  way  and  up  to  Pungo  N'Dongo,  the  surface 
soil  being  formed  by  the  disintegration  of  the  granite 
itself. 

These  geological  characteristics  will  naturally  be 
repeated    to  the  south    and    north  in    identical  parallel 


Conclusion.  233 

regions,  with  variations  in  the  high  table-land,  where 
we  meet  occasionally  with  hard  and  tough  red  sand- 
tone,  and  rocks  of  feldspar,  as  in  the  basin  of  the 
Lucalla. 

Our  information  respecting  mines  is  of  a  varied 
character.  In  the  earlier  portion  of  our  work  we  made 
reference  to  them  in  connexion  with  the  Dombe. 
Southwards,  at  Mossamedes,  we  found  carbonate  and 
sulphate  of  copper  in  small  quantity  in  the  layers  of 
chalk,  to  which  they  impart  a  green  colour.  We  have 
reason  to  believe  from  what  was  told  us  that  asphalt  also 
exists  there,  and  that  coal  is  obtainable  in  the  Dondo, 
and  at  Oeiras  in  the  north  ;  still,  as  some  kind  of  bitu- 
men might  have  been  mistaken  for  the  genuine  article, 
we  will  not  guarantee  the  correctness  of  the  assertion. 

Little  can  be  said  on  the  score  of  the  precious  metals. 
Mica  appears  in  the  interior  to  have  deluded  many  into 
the  belief  that  they  possessed  the  secret  of  a  silver-mine. 
Thus,  for  instance,  the  natives  referred  to  one  existing  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Lucalla,  near  the  Banza  Dalango, 
which  people  from  Malange  had  endeavoured  to  visit. 
In  the  Jinga  silver  appears  to  be  abundant.  It  has 
been  stated  also  that  indications  of  this  metal  have  been 
observed  near  Cambambe  ;  but  to  none  of  these  reports 
could  we  apply  the  test  of  proof. 

We  can,  however,  say  with  absolute  certainty  that 
iron  and  copper  are  to  be  found  all  over  the  continent ; 
the  first  of  good  quality,  and  the  latter  not  inferior  to 
the  American.  This  the  natives  make  use  of,  and  speak 
of  the  mines  at  Catanga  and  Garanganja  in  high  terms 
of  praise. 

The  three  zones  or  belts  to  which  we  are  now  referring, 
are  very  unequally  provided  with  trees,  and  may  be 
classified  as  follows  :  the  mangrove,  the  baobab,  and  the 


234  West  and  Central  Africa. 

acacia  ;  the  last  belonging  to  the  interior,  is  gene- 
rally considered  the  most  salubrious,  and  where  it 
grows  the  marshy  influence  is  less  sensibly  felt,  and  the 
European  consequently  beneath  its  shade  finds  greater 
security. 

Almost  all  travellers  speak  with  favour  of  the  superi- 
ority of  the  mountainous  zone.  The  great  watercourses 
which  furrow  it,  flowing  rapidly  from  their  spring-heads 
to  precipitate  themselves  into  the  region  below,  do  not 
anywhere  stagnate  or  spread  over  the  neighbouring  lands, 
so  that,  except  in  rare  instances,  marshes  are  unknown. 
In  this  vast  tract  of  country  the  ground  rises  to  a  con- 
siderable height,  under  parallel  11°,  and  thence  gradually 
descends  either  to  the  north  or  south.  It  is  a  true  rib 
which  crosses  the  continent  from  east  to  west,  and  con- 
stitutes the  divisional  line  of  the  waters  of  the  two  great 
rivers,  the  Zambese,  and  the  Congo-Zaire ;  and  it  is  in 
our  opinion  the  most  fitting  place  of  residence  for  Euro- 
peans south  of  the  equator,  that  is  to  say  between  it  and 
the  tropic  ;  which  is  proved  not  only  by  the  distribution 
of  plants  but  by  the  people  who  inhabit  it. 

A  fact  worthy  of  special  note  on  this  subject  is,  that 
whether  we  regard  them  from  a  physical  or  intellectual 
point  of  view,  the  tribes  appear  distributed  in  a  gradually 
descending  scale  north,  south,  and  west,  towards  the 
coast.  If,  for  instance,  we  take  the  G-anguellas  and  the 
Ma-quioco  as  the  starting-point  for  this  simile,  we  shall 
find  that  the  peoples  as  they  approximate  to  the  sea, 
such  as  the  Ba-cuisso  and  Ba-cuando,  are  relatively 
inferior  to  those  of  the  higher  regions.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  we  travel  northwards,  we  shall  observe  in  the 
Jinga,  the  Ma-hungo  and  the  Ma-yacca  the  same 
sensible  difference.  And  an  identical  rule  holds  good  if 
we  turn  our  steps  southwards,  inasmuch  as  the  Hotten- 


Conclusion.  235 

tots  and  Bet  j  nans  are  held  to  be  the  very  lowest  types 
of  the  negro  race. 

It  does  not  appear  to  us  easy  to  find  an  explanation 
of  this  phenomenon.  The  altitude  and  nature  of  the 
soil  have,  of  course,  much  to  do  with  it,  but  we  fancy 
that  the  special  influence  lies  in  their  distance  from  the 
commercial  centres,  which  compels  them  to  become 
travellers.  The  tribes  that  at  the  present  clay  occupy 
the  countries  of  the  great  continent  we  traversed,  appear 
for  the  most  part  to  have  derived  their  origin  from  re- 
mote quarters  and  different  sources,  the  types  becoming 
accentuated,  later  on,  through  purely  local  circumstances. 

If,  for  the  time  being,  we  set  aside  the  peoples  of  the 
sea-coast,  we  shall  observe  in  the  men  of  the  interior, 
Biheno,  Ganguella,  Quioco,  &c,  certain  general  features 
which  may  be  roughly  delineated  as  follows  :  a  well- 
developed  frame,  prominent  bones,  powerful  muscles, 
more  especially  in  the  upper  part  of  the  body,  a  pro- 
nounced curvature  of  the  vertebral  column,  imme- 
diately above  the  pelvis,  dolichocephalus  skull,  flat  at 
the  sides,  forehead  arched,  teeth  oblique,  more  in  the 
upper  jaw,  the  colour  of  the  skin  varying  from  black  to 
dark  bronze. 

In  the  north  the  type  appeared  to  us  to  differ  consider- 
ably from  that  above  defined,  generally  of  a  jet  black 
colour,  the  natives  of  those  regions  and  the  Jingas  more 
especially  have  not  the  same  physical  development  as  the 
eastern  tribes  ;  tliej  are  more  slender,  and  there  is  a  less 
pronounced  obtrusion  of  the  upper  jaw,  bringing  the 
facial  angle  nearer  to  75°. 

With  little  activity  and  love  of  investigation,  the 
Jingas,  through  having  lived  near  the  sea,  and  finding 
great  part  of  their  necessities  F.upplied  without  labour, 
appear  to  have  acquired  a  nature  in  harmony  with  their 


236  West  and  Central  Africa, 

position,  and  show  no  inclination  for  long  journeys  or 
large  operations. 

Bearing  in  mind  the  foregoing  circumstances  and  the 
fact  of  the  people  in  the  south-east,  principally,  referring 
in  their  legends  to  a  migration  from  the  north,  we  are  com- 
pelled to  admit  that  at  remote  periods  Central  Africa  was 
the  field  of  a  great  evolution,  wherein  the  countries  under 
review  were  invaded.  As,  however  (to  repeat  what  we  have 
before  hinted),  on  the  arrival  of  the  Cassange  tribes,  the 
Jingas  were  established  on  the  littoral,  it  must  at  once  be 
inferred  that  the  latter  (Muco-N'gola  or  Mona-N'gola) 
invaded  Angola,  establishing  the  seat  of  their  govern- 
ment at  Loanda,1  long  before  the  time  that  the  Tembos 
dreamed  of  directing  their  steps  thither. 

To  this  fact  must  be  added  another  very  remarkable 
one.  The  Jingas  assert  that  they  subjugated  the  Congo 
when  'they  settled  down  in  the  country.  If  this  be  the 
case  a  kingdom  of  the  Congo  must  have  been  already  in 
existence.2 

1  Loanda  or  Lu-anda  signifies  no  doubt  "a  lower  part,"  this  desig- 
nation having  been  adopted  because  at  the  outset  the  Court  of  Angola 
(N'gola)  was  at  Quiassamba  on  the  sandy  island  which  lies  opposite  the 
higher  land  where,  at  the  present  day,  exists  the  city  of  St.  Paulo. 

Its  long  shape  might  perhaps  have  given  rise  to  the  name  of  Dong 0 
(a  native  boat),  which  the  monarch s  of  N'gola  subsequently  retained 
for  the  district  wherein  they  almost  always  reside. 

In  Pedras  Negras  this  term  is  met  with  as  designating  the  royal 
dwellings,  and  at  the  present  time  in  the  Jinga  the  site  occupied  by  the 
king  is  still  the  district  of  the  Dongo. 

2  Bastian  informs  us  that  "  prior  to  the  formation  of  the  kingdom  of 
the  Congo  the  banks  of  the  Zaire  were  peopled  by  independent  tribes  of 
the  Ba-t'cheno  (?)  or  Ma-tfcheno  (?)  conquered  and  united  by  a  chief 
named  Nimia  Lit  co-em  (?)  the  first  king  of  that  country, 'who  erected 
the  Banza-\Sb-C ongo  "  (Ainbassi),  but  this  is  an  incorrect  designation,  as 
is  properly  observed  by  the  estimable  secretary  of  the  Geographical 
Society,  and  eminent  publicist  Sr.  Luciano  Cordeiro,  in  his  "  Hydro- 
graphy of  Africa ,"  as  it  comes  from  M'baje-ia-mucanu. 


Conclusion*  237 

We  thus  obtain  three  distinct  invasions,  which  may  be 
styled  that  of  the  Congos,  that  of  the  Bondos  (compris- 
ing all  those  who  speak  the  Biinda  language),  issuing 
probably  from  the  Yacca  or  more  to  the  eastward,  and 
that  of  the  Tembos,  comprising  the  Ban-gala,  Ma-quioco, 
Ma-songo,  perhaps  the  bin-bundo,  drawn  from  the  region 
of  the  lakes,  designated"  Nano,"  on  the  coast.  We  may 
assign  as  the  date  of  this  last  invasion  the  16th  century; 
the  others  being  of  an  earlier  period. 

The  Bondos  being  established  as  we  have  described, 
it  is  natural  that  from  their  position  on  the  ocean,  where 
they  were  engaged  in  fishing,  they  should  have  extended 
further  down  the  coast,  in  the  direction  of  Benguella  and 
Mossamedes,  with  a  view  to  enlarging  the  area  of  their 
piscatory  excursions. 

But  among  the  tribes  that  are  now  collected  there, 
fresh  variations  appear,  which  plunge  the  observer  into 
serious    difficulties.       The    Ba-cuisso,    Ba-cuando    and 


Are  the  Ma-fcheno  then  the  aborigines  of  that  part  ?  That  is  the 
question. 

The  word  Luco-em  is  likewise  a  strange  one  ;  when  analyzed  we  find 
the  first  part  almost  always  bestowed  npm  special  individuals,  such  as 
in  the  Lunda,  the  celebrated  woman  of  whom  we  have  made  mention 
as  Luco-quessa,  and  the  Maskers  of  the  woods,  Luco-iche  which  we  have 
written  Muquiche  and  others. 

A  constant  comparison  of  these  peculiar  terms  is  extremely  advisable, 
in  order  if  possible  to  obtain  the  thread  which  can  guide  us  through 
our  labyrinth. 

In  the  case  above  alluded  to  Luco-em  must  have  been  the  first 
who  was  entitled  Muene  Congo,  which,  through  corruption,  became 
at  a  later  period,  Mani-Congo. 

And  if  Congo  in  the  language  of  Angola  signifies  debtor  or  tributary, 
and  iche  or  xi  expresses  property,  we  shall  obtain  a  confirmation  of  the 
fact  that  the  congos  were  tributaries  of  Angola,  and  therefore  even  at  the 
present  day  the  monarch  of  the  last-mentioned  territory  is  designated 
Muen-iche  or  owner  of  the  land. 


J 


8  West  and  Central  Africa. 


Ba-ximba,have  a  perfectly  different  aspect,  approximating 
in  character  to  that  of  the  Hottentot.  The  trapezoidal 
conformation  of  face,  the  prominence  of  the  zygomatic 
brow,  and  the  angularity  of  form,  all  point  to  the  influence 
of  the  southern  people  on  the  inhabitants  of  this  territory, 
so  as  to  induce  the  belief  that  they  are  a  mixture  of 
Bondos  and  the  southern  tribes. 

To  sum  up,  therefore,  we  shall  have,  for  the  numerous 
tribes  now  coming  under  the  denomination  (not  a  very 
correct  one)  of  negroes,  between  Senegal  and  the  south, 
the  following  divisions, — 

In  the  north  the  tribes  of  the  Ogowai  basin,  the  Ba- 
congo,  of  whose  settlement  we  can  say  but  little,  and 
who  probably  are  connected  with  the  peoples  belonging 
to  the  basin  of  the  Niger. 

Then  come  the  Ban-bondo  who  occupy  the  kingdom 
of  Angola,  and  who  have  migrated  from  the  north-north- 
east, possibly  from  the  Upper  Zaire,  where,  at  the  pre- 
sent day,  we  meet  with  the  Ma-yacca,  Ma-cundi,  &c.3 

3  It  does  not  appear  to  us  that  the  Ma-yacca  were  totally  unknown  in 
Europe. 

In  the  Annual  Report  of  the  Jesuits  (Guinea)  of  1602-1605,  we  read, 
"  The  invaders  who,  during  the  first  half  of  the  sixteenth  century  in- 
fested the  territory  of  the  west,  styled  themselves  Yaccas  in  the  Congo, 
Jingas  in  Angola.,  Gallas  in  Ethiopia,  and  Sumbas  in  Guinea." 

We  must,  therefore,  infer  from  this  that  there  was  already  a  notion  of 
the  inhabitants  of  Yacca,  and  consequently  our  idea  of  supposing 
them  to  be  the  ancestors  of  the  Bondos  or  Bundas,  that  is  to  say  from 
their  using  the  Bunda,  Qui-n'bunda  or  Lu-rfbunda  language,  a  designa- 
tion whereby  we  must  after  all  distinguish  the  whole  of  the  dialects  of 
the  territory  of  Angola  and  in  a  certain  way  connecting  them  with  the 
Accas,  has  some  show  of  reason  on  its  side.  By  attentively  following 
the  studies  of  Schweinfurt  (a  veritable  master  upon  such  subjects)  we 
have  been  induced  to  assimilate  the  Ban-bondo  to  the  Niam-niam.  in 
physical  conformation  and  disposition,  colour,  &c  ,  so  that  we  have  be- 
come all  but  convinced  of  the  relationship  existing  between  these 
peoples,  otherwise  so  distinct. 


Conclusion.  239 

These  again  are  followed  by  the  tribes  of  the  Ma- 
quioco,  Ban-gala,  Ma-songo,  and  perhaps  the  Ganguella, 
whom  we  will  comprise  under  the  name  of  Ba-lunda, 
since  they  themselves  claim  such  origin  (known,  as  we 
have  mentioned,  as  Ba-nano),  and  who  reside  in  the 
countries  we  have  already  indicated. 

Finally,  on  the  south- south-west,  and  part  of  the  sea- 
coast,  all  those  tribes  whom  we  include  under  the  desig- 
nation of  N'hembas,  Ban-cumbi,  Ban-ximba,  Ba-cuisso, 
Ba-cuando,  &c.4 

The  foregoing  is  our  opinion  upon  the  subject,  which 
has  no  pretension  to  be  a  profound  study  of  the  ethno- 
logical connexion  of  the  tribes  of  Central  and  West 
Africa ;  it  is  a  theory  submitted  with  all  due  deference, 
and  which  can  be  set  aside  or  modified  by  those  who 
bring  more  knowledge  and  experience  to  bear  upon  the 
subject  than  we  can  lay  claim  to. 

Having  thus  described  the  tribes  of  this  part  of  Africa 
in  a  general  and  cursory  review,  we  will  now  enter  a 
little  more  into  detail,  so  as  to  bring  them  as  closely  as 
possible  within  the  knowledge  of  our  readers.  And  to 
begin,  we  will  remark  that  the  life  of  the  African  is 
simple  and  primitive,  and  his  social  condition,  very 
gross. 

Of  a  thousand  senzalas,  or  thereabouts,  we  visited, 
we  found  almost  the  same  identical  features  in  the  con- 

4  The  Ba-nhaneca  and  the  Ban-cumbi  occupy  approximately  the  re- 
gion comprised  between  the  river  Cuneneand  the  slopes  of  the  plateau  to 
the  west. 

On  the  south  they  are  bounded  by  the  Ban-ximba  ;  on  the  east  by  the 
Ban-cutuba  (N'hembas  people)  on  the  west  by  the  Ba-cuisso  (nomads) 
and  the  Ba-cubale  ;  and  on  the  north  by  the  whole  of  the  tribes  which 
we  indicate  by  the  name  of  Ba-nano. 

Catuba  appears  to  refer  to  the  special  arrangement  of  the  waist- 
cloths  pendent  from  the  girdle. 


240  West  and  Central  Africa. 

struction  of  the-  dwellings  :  the  same  mode  of  roofing, 
covering,  and  arranging  them.  Either  stakes  or  canes 
driven  firmly  into  the  gronnd,  the  interstices  filled  in  with 
grass  or  clay — sometimes  both — a  thatched  roof,  with 
two  or  three  inner  divisions,  presenting,  as  a  whole,  some 
a  conical  shape,  others  a  regular  square  pyramid,  and 
others  again  a  long  ellipsis. 

The  house  is,  for  the  most  part,  the  property  of  one 
only.  The  chief  almost  always  relegates  the  huts  of  all 
the  inhabitants  of  the  village  to  a  station  behind  his 
own  dwelling,  and  surrounds  the  whole  with  a  palisade, 
or  occasionally  leaves  it  completely  open.  Within  a 
short  distance,  the  villagers  have  their  fields  and  planta- 
tions, whence  they  derive  their  daily  bread,  and  fre- 
quently about  the  palisade  such  plants  as  bananas, 
stramonium,  and  others,  are  encouraged  to  grow. 

Their  laws  and  the  organization  of  their  states  always 
present  a  difficult  problem,  upon  which  we  shall  only 
lightly  touch. 

Emigration,  conflicts,  and  instability  of  living  being 
constant,  social  order  varies  according  to  circumstances ; 
the  connexions  of  to-day  are  altered  to-morrow,  the 
chief  of  yesterday  yields  to  the  conqueror  of  to-day, 
so  that  we  fancied  we  frequently  discovered  in  one  and 
the  same  people  different  organic  principles. 

As  to  the  rest,  the  elements  of  their  legislation  (if  we 
may  use  such  a  term)  do  not  appear  to  have  been  based 
on  the  organic  principle  of  the  family,  or  if  they  were 
we  believe  that  they  were  not  adapted,  properly  speak- 
ing, to  an  isolated  family  but  to  a  group  of  many.  It 
was  not  the  Patriarch  who,  laying  down  rules  for 
his  children,  created  the  first  element  of  law,  but  the 
chief  who,  taking  measures  for  defence,  or  conquering  in 
turn,   established  certain  precedents  which  he  inrposed 


Conclusion.  241 

upon  those  he  deemed  his  vassals.  For  this  reason,  in 
the  states  of  West  Africa,  the  will  of  the  chief  rules 
supreme,  he  being  the  principal  creator  of  the  law  which 
is,  in  consequence,  as  variable  as  that  will. 

It  will  be  inferred  from  this  that  personal  liberty  is 
purely  problematical  in  that  part  of  the  world ;  none  is 
less  free  than  the  savage  whose  daily  life  is  regulated  by 
the  strangest  dispositions  and  privileges  which  the  chief 
dictates  and  imposes,  but  never  allows  to  be  called  in 
question.  Absolute  and  supreme  law  dwells  in  the  ruler 
or  chief  of  his  village  ;  and  to  him  therefore  belongs  the 
judicial  and  administrative  power  which  he  alters  at  his 
good  pleasure,  listening  at  most  to  the  opinion  of  certain 
of  his  principal  vassals  (macotas),  who  generally  seek  to 
learn  the  tendencies  of  the  monarch  in  order  to  support 
them.  And  thus,  the  settlement  of  all  disputes  con- 
cerning the  division  of  land  (the  source  of  the  primitive 
legislation  of  Europe  for  the  security  of  property)  apper- 
tains to  him  only,  so  that  jurisprudence  is  reduced  to 
this — the  chief's  word  and  passive  obedience. 

Social  order  and  the  observance  of  determined  precepts 
depend  so  much  upon  the  will  of  the  chief,  that  disorgan- 
ization almost  inevitably  ensues  at  his  death.  Directly  a 
district  loses  its  head,  the  people,  left  to  themselves,  at 
once  step  over  the  barriers  by  which  they  were  confined. 
Confusion,  controversy,  and  tumult,  are  the  result  of 
such  a  position,  which  the  consciousness  of  unexpected 
liberty  increases  even  more.  The  strong  oppress  the 
weak,  commit  extortions,  attack  property,  pilfer  right 
and  left,  till  complete  anarchy  ensues — a  state  of  things 
which  many  do  their  best  to  prolong ;  and  it  is  only 
through  the  predominance  of  some  strong  will — some 
bolder  and  more  ambitious  spirit  among  them — that  they 
are  prevailed  once  again  to  assume  a  semblance  of  order. 

vol.  11.  11 


242  West  and  Centra  I  Africa . 

We  never  met  with  one  single  law  touching  upon 
political  prerogatives,  or  the  most  elementary  notion  of 
an  assembly ;  not  even  the  elective  right  (put  in  force 
on  the  occasion  of  a  ruler's  death)  is  perfectly  regulated, 
but  is  subject  to  circumstances  such  as  we  have  de- 
scribed when  speaking  of  the  Ban-gala,  among  whom 
at  the  present  time  a  Jagg  a  cannot  be  elected  because 
one  of  the  pretenders  to  the  dignity  has  abstracted  the 
case  containing  the  insignia  of  command. 

Certain  rules  and  usages  are  observed,  it  is  true,  but 
what  is  a  remarkable  fact,  instead  of  respecting  the 
private  interest  of  each  individual,  or  the  common  good, 
they  turn,  for  the  most  part,  upon  matters  of  pure  cere- 
monial, and  to  follies  of  this  kind  the  officials  devote 
themselves  with  an  amount  of  seriousness  that  it  is 
difficult  to  conceive.  Salutations,  the  formalities  at- 
tending receptions,  visits  to  the  chief,  and  such  puerilities, 
appear  exclusively  to  occupy  their  minds,  and  for  the 
regulations  of  which  special  rules  are  drawn  up  and 
adopted.  On  the  other  hand,  the  inheritance  of  a  son, 
the  right  to  bequeath  property,  the  possession  of  a  wife, 
are  matters  that  are  left  to  govern  themselves,  and 
remain,  of  course,  at  the  mercy  of  the  purest  accident. 

Even  their  relations  with  strangers  are  dictated  by 
circumstances,  and  it  is  only  in  extraordinary  cases  that 
one  can  suspect  that  such  a  thing  as  a  law  exists  (and 
what  a  law  it  is  when  discovered  !).  For  instance  :  should 
a  white  man  come  into  a  place,  take  food  and  not  pay 
for  it,  or  pay  what  is  deemed  too  little,  the  first  passer- 
by, however  innocent,  will  have  to  pay  for  him  ! 

As  the  customs  among  Africans 5  are  regulated  by 
precedent  (to  which  time  gives  all  its  force),  it  is  natural 
to  suppose  that  some  rudiments  of  law  must  have  been 

5  We,  of  course,  refer  to  those  with  whom  we  had  dealings. 


Conclusion.  243 

engendered,  but  it  is  an  unquestionable  fact  that  the 
progress  of  the  natives  has  been  simply  nil,  influenced 
doubtless  by  the  imperfect  or  unknown  organization  of 
the  family. 

With  respect  to  religious  matters  we  have,  on  a  former 
occasion,  viz.,  in  Chapter  IV.,  of  the  first  volume,  made 
mention  of  what  we  deemed  to  be  the  views  of  the 
savages  on  the  great  continent,  restricted  to  fetishes 
involving  terror,  and  false  or  no  notions  concerning  the 
Divinity.     We  will  therefore  merely  add  the  following  : — 

Not  considering  fetishism  as  a  form  of  religion,  and 
in  the  absence  of  such  worship  as  is  bestowed  upon 
material  substances,  we  persist  in  maintaining  that  the 
negro  possesses  none.  It  must  not,  however,  be  as- 
sumed that  we  dispute  the  existence  of  religion  among 
the  African  natives,  merely  from  the  simple  fact  of  our 
not  assimilating  that  which  we  saw  there  to  what  we 
ourselves  know  upon  the  subject ;  but  because  not  a 
single  evidence  or  act  hinted  to  us  in  any  manner  what- 
soever a  tendency  that  way. 

If,  however,  to  constitute  a  theogony  it  is  sufficient  to 
have  the  simplest  sentiment  of  fear  (thus  implicating  in 
a  certain  indirect  way  the  consciousness  that  man  enter- 
tains of  something  superior  to  himself),  then  we  believe 
all  humanity  has  a  religion.  This,  however,  is  not  the 
fact,  as  Sir  John  Lubbock  very  justly  observes,  for  "  we 
cannot  admit  as  proof  of  the  existence  of  religion  the 
fear  of  a  child  in  the  dark,"  to  which  we  will  add,  or  the 
terror  of  a  man  who,  in  the  obscurity  of  night  ap- 
proaches the  graves  of  his  fellows. 

By  the  acquisition  of  a  fetish,  the  negro  supposes  that 
he  possesses  a  resource,  but  to  which  he  attaches  no 
particular  notion,  and  from  which,  at  most,  he  derives 
the  satisfaction   of  possessing   an  object   having  a  pre- 

e  2 


244  West  and  Central  Africa. 

servative  influence  against  some  unforeseen  evil.  The 
said  object,  in  fact,  does  not  imply  the  idea  of  any  con- 
nexion with  a  superior  Being,  whose  good  graces  the 
fetish  might  have  the  power  to  attain,  but  a  mere  mate- 
rial means,  invested  with  formula  more  or  less  magical, 
to  counterbalance  actions  in  struggling  with  Avhich  he 
might,  if  unaided,  prove  impotent.  It  is  concentrated 
magic,  the  complete  reverse  of  religion. 

And  not  only  does  religion  not  exist,  but  we  have 
arrived  at  the  conviction  that  the  sentiments  which  its 
influence  awakens  and  fortifies,  are  extremely  rare.  For 
is  not  religion — apart  from  the  fact  of  putting  man  in  re- 
lation with  the  Divinity — the  true  moral  law,  the  cardinal 
point  whereby  conscience  begins  to  steer  ii>s  course 
along  the  tracks  of  good  and  of  evil,  a  perfect  scale 
whereon  are  marked  the  sentiments,  as  they  grow  in  the 
just  measure  of  man's  progress  therein  ? 

Be  tins  as  it  may,  we  feel  perfectly  satisfied  that 
those  idyllic  tales  of  certain  travellers  who  conceived 
natives  possessed  of  refined  sentiments,  and  who  have 
put  on  record  how  a  mu-rotze  or  young  girl  refused  in 
marriage  a  man  whom  she  did  not  love,  had  no  founda- 
tion out  of  their  own  lively,  creative  fancy. 

Let  us  consider  for  a  moment  whether  the  negress 
does  or  can  love  in  the  lofty  sense  of  that  word.  If 
she  loved — if  she  had  the  consciousness  of  that  sublime 
sentiment  which  opens  to  us  on  earth  the  gates  of 
heaven-— she  would  manifest  it  in  her  actions,  and  by  its 
aid  attain  to  some  belief,  some  religious  faith,  inasmuch 
as  her  very  felicity  would  help  her  to  comprehend  that 
there  must  be  something  better  and  purer  above  this 
material  mundane  life.  But  who  is  capable  of  inspiring 
her  with  such  a  feeling  in  the  brutalized  state  of  slavery 
in  which  she  lives  ?  Her  husband !  Most  certainly 
not.     He  simply  encircles  her  with  an  iron  girdle  of  obli- 


Conclusion.  245 

gations  and  despicable  labour,  compels  her  to  live  in  the 
dirt,  like  his  dog,  and  toil  and  travail  for  his  pleasure :  she, 
on  her  part,  dares  not  touch  or  even  look  at  him  without 
permission  ;  she  may  not  eat  at  the  same  table,  far  less 
from  the  same  dish  as  he,  and  must  not  accept  liquor  from 
his  hand.  In  a  word,  the  wretched  wife  is  compelled  to 
absent  herself  from  the  conjugal  roof  at  determinate 
periods  of  each  month  ;  and  at  the  sublimest  moments 
of  her  existence,  that  is  to  say,  when  she  is  about  to 
become  a  mother,  she  must  remove  far  away,  and  give 
birth  to  her  offspring  as  remote  as  possible  from  the 
man  out  of  whom  some  of  these  self-same  travellers 
have  tried  to  make  a  tender  and  feeling  husband  after 
the  fashion  of  Europe.  Triply  bound  down,  therefore, 
as  she  is,  to  materialism,  how  is  it  to  be  supposed 
that  she  can  soar  to  the  transcendental  regions  of 
ideality  ? 

On  these  and  other  grounds,  therefore,  we  retain  our 
conviction,  that  every  attempt  to  attribute  to  the  negro 
a  notion  concerning  the  Creator,  modelled  after  the 
manner  of  our  own  conceptions  on  the  subject,  is  illu- 
sory; for  the  negro  has  no  such  notion.  The  very 
puppets  he  makes,  wherein  many  persons  pretend  to 
discover  an  idol  which,  modified  and  developed,  might 
signify  the  idea  of  the  Supreme,  never  go  beyond  fetishes 
— things  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  idol — inasmuch 
as  the  idol  is  adored,  it  personifies,  so  to  speak,  a  principle, 
and  has — if  we  may  venture  to  say  so — a  direct  action 
which  is  implored  ;  whilst  the  fetish,  on  the  contrary, 
possesses  nothing  of  the  sort,  or  at  least  must  be  con- 
sidered perfectly  passive. 

Many  authors,  nevertheless,  maintain  that  it  is  so, 
and  among  them  our  illustrious  compatriot,  Sr.  A.  F. 
Nogueira,  who  in  his  fine  work  entitled  A  raga  negro, 
"  The    Negro     Race,"     observes    that    the    Ba-nhaneca 


246  West  and  Central  Africa. 

and  Ban-cumbi  designate  by  the  name  of  Huco  or  Suco, 
according  to  the  dialects,  an  invisible  God,  who  sees, 
hears,  and  knows,  what  they  think  and  say. 

With  all  respect  for  the  authoritative  opinion  of  that 
gentleman,  we  venture  to  submit  that  such  an  idea  is 
due  simply  to  the  contact  of  civilization,  and  which,  to  a 
certain  extent,  he  demonstrates  in  the  following  period  : 

"  They  yield  to  him  no  worship  or  adoration  whatso- 
ever, but " 

If  we  admit  with  Sir  John  Lubbock  that  fetishism 
allows  of  no  temples  or  idols — and  in  our  humble  opinion 
no  worship  either — let  us  examine  the  first  step  taken 
on  the  road  to  religion  and  we  shall  see  in  totemism  the 
commencement  of  adoration,  which  shamanism  developes 
by  ecstasies,  and  idolatry  completes  by  a  worship.  Hence- 
forth, all  religious  progresses  up  to  the  superior  formulas 
have  these  manifestations  inherent  in  them.  How  is  it 
possible  then  that  the  Ban-cumbi,  who  have  so  transcendent 
an  idea  of  the  Supreme  Being,  to  all  appearance,  indeed, 
absolutely  formulated  on  our  own,  should  omit  to  wor- 
ship him,  when  they  have  attained  to  so  high  a  degree  of 
perfectibility  touching  the  idea  of  the  supernatural  ?  For 
a  very  simple  reason;  that  such  an  idea  does  not  belong 
to  them,  but  has  been  plagiarized  and  ingrafted  on  an 
ill-prepared  stock,  and  is  consequently  worthless.  They 
have  heard  speak  of  something  which  they  had  a  difficulty 
in  comprehending,  and  gave  to  it  a  name,  just  as  they 
have  bestowed  upon  the  sea  the  title  of  calunga  or  lung  a, 
(long)  of  whose  length  they  had  no  notion,  and  precisely 
as  the  Ma-quioco  had  their  N'gana  N'zambi,6  of  which 
they  knew  just  as  little. 

6  It  must  always  be  borne  in  mind  that  N'zambi  or  N'zamba  in  Lun'- 
bundo  signifies  an  elephant,  and  therefore  the  object  of  such  a  designa- 
tion would  appear  to  be  to  impart  an  idea*  of  greatness,  a  quality  im- 


Conclusion.  247 

The  negro  is  very  far  removed  from  this  superior 
state,  and  it  will  be  a  difficult  task  to  detach  him  from 
the  brutal  superstitions  which  generally  torment  him 
and  any  circumstance  aggravates — such  as  night,  for 
example,  when  the  imagination,  more  accessible  to  ter- 
rors, magnifies  the  ideas  of  the  day.  As  to  the  creation 
and  prayers  he  is  a  total  stranger,  even  the  principle  of 
good  and  evil  requires  among  many  tribes  attentive 
study  ere  we  can  definitely  establish  it.  Nor  should 
the  assertion  excite  surprise,  inasmuch  as  an  acquaintance 
therewith  involves  the  notions  of  justice  and  injustice, 
and  therefore  of  conscience. 

With  respect  to  the  latter  we  agree,  if  not  entirely,  at 
least  very  nearly,  with  Captain  Burton  who,  speaking  of 
East  Africa,  says, — 

"  Conscience  does  not  exist  ....  and  repentance 
expresses  regret  for  missed  opportunities  of  mortal 
crime.  Robbery  constitutes  an  honourable  man  :  mur- 
der— the  more  atrocious  the  midnight  crime  the  better 
— makes  the  hero." 

On  the  West  Coast  this  is  far  from  being  strictly 
true,  nor  do  we  wish  to  insinuate  that  the  African 
has  a  decided  propensity  for  crime,  as  we  have  men- 
tioned in  the  early  pages  of  this  volume,  but  after  com- 
mitting it  he  does  not  feel  what  we  call  repentance 
because,  as  it  would  appear,  he  is  ignorant  of  the  iniquity 
of  his  act. 

The  moral  sentiment  among  the  natives  is  at  present 
in  embryo,  which  may  be  gathered  from  the  facility 
whereby  crime  is  commuted  by  a  money  payment. 
Among;  almost  all  the  tribes  with  which  we  came  into 
contact,  the  assassin  who  had  property  might  condone  his 

pressed  upon  them,  and  which  they  have  expressed  by  the  term  appro- 
priated to  that  animal,  the  largest  that  they  knew. 


248  West  and  Central  Africa. 

crime  by  indemnifying  the  family  of  his  victim  with  a 
certain  sum,  and  would  thenceforth  be  free  to  repeat  the 
offence. 

Another  circumstance  which  proves  the  unconscious- 
ness of  evil-doing,  is  the  unconcern  wherewith  a  native 
in  obedience  to  orders  will  commit  a  wicked  act.  Thus 
we  have  seen  a  negro,  when  commanded  by  his  chief, 
perpetrate  one,  two,  or  three  murders  (as  for  instance 
the  Muene  Gutapa  in  the  Lunda)  with  the  utmost  in- 
difference and  without  any  evidence  of  remorse.  It  is  a 
mere  question  of  education. 

We  shall  not  feel  surprised  if  these  lines  should  fall 
like  a  bombshell  upon  the  conviction  of  many  notable 
thinkers  upon  this  subject.  We  grieve  as  we  set  down 
the  fact,  but  although  we  respect  the  opinions  of  others, 
we  think  it  only  right,  and  in  accordance  with  our  duty, 
to  give  the  results  of  our  own  observation,  which,  after 
all,  many  may  perhaps  repute  to  be  false.  And  we 
deem  it  advisable  again  to  mention,  that  our  remarks 
refer  to  the  peoples  of  the  interior  who  are  far  removed 
from  European  contact,  such  as  the  Ma-coco,  Ma-yacca, 
and  Ma-hungo;  and  not  to  the  tribes  on  the  littoral, 
whence,  we  fancy,  travellers  have  taken  back  to  Europe 
particulars  of  not  too  veracious  a  character. 

Turning  now  to  the  question  of  language  we  must 
admit  at  the  very  outset  that  it  is  so  vague  and  obscure 
that  we  hardly  know  how  to  tackle  it.  Both  the  ethno- 
logy and  language  of  Africa  constitute  studies,  that  are, 
so  to  speak,  unknown,  and  the  pronouncing  any  opinion 
upon  them  entails  the  risk  of  setting  out  with  a  blunder. 
Confining  ourselves,  therefore,  to  a  rough  sketch,  and  in 
order  to  give  our  readers  a  just  idea  of  the  alarm  which 
an  incursion  into  such  a  dominion  may  reasonably  inspire, 
we  append  a  list  of  a  few  of  the  tongues  spoken  on  the 


Conclusion.  249 

great  continent  to  the  south  of  the  Equator,  beginning 
to  the  north  of  the  Zaire. 

We  there  find  the  Ashantee,  Dahomey,  Joruba,  Benga, 
Ueta,  Onfue,  Onglo,  Fanti,  Insubu,  Dualla,  Diquele,  Nupe, 
Ibo,  Efique,  Maxi,  Eve,  Otji,  Acra,  Baza,  Cru,  Crebo, 
Yei,  Susu,  and  Maude  of  the  Ma-n'dinga,  Timne,  &c,  &c. 

In  the  Gaboon  territory,  there  are  the  M'pongue  aud 
the  Ocancle,  together  with  the  Fiote  to  the  south  in  the 
Luano-o  and  Cacono'o. 

On  the  banks  of  the  Zaire  we  come  upon  the  Lu-congo, 
and  in  the  south  the  Lu-n'bundo  or  Qui-n'bundo,  the  Lu- 
herero,  the  Qui-cobale,  Lu-camba,  Lun-cumbi,  Lu- 
nhaneca,  and  the  Lun-gambue,  spoken  on  the  banks  of 
the  Cunene,  Ovampo,  &c.  Then  on  the  west  coast,  down- 
wards, we  have  the  Nama  and  Cora  (Hottentot  dialects), 
the  language  of  the  Bosjemans,  which  towards  the  east  be- 
comes transformed  into  the  Osu,  Tonga,  Zulu,  Tebele, 
Batosleta,  Sechuana,  with  their  dialects  the  Serolong, 
Sesuto,  and  Sechlapi,  which  further  on  give  place  to  the 
Tequezo  and  Kaffir  between  Zululand  and  the  Zambese, 
and  finally,  the  Ma-cua  and  the  idioms  of  Tete  and 
Senna. 

North  of  the  Nyassa  appear  the  well-known  Qui-suaheli, 
Qui-niamezi,  Qui-nica,  together  with  the  Qui-camba, 
Qui-iao,  Qui-cuio,  and  many  others. 

This  startling  list  shows  how  hard  a  nut  the  subject 
is  to  crack ;  and  we,  with  our  limited  knowledge,  know  not 
too  well  how  to  go  about  it.  Nevertheless,  we  venture 
to  put  forward  a  few  considerations. 

The  circumstance  which  most  tends  to  engender  the 
variableness  of  a  language  is  no  doubt  that  of  its  not 
being  a  written  tongue.  The  least  modulation  or  change 
in  tone  may  effect  great  modifications  of  words,  and  as  a 
consequence  favour  their  corruption.     An  alteration  in  the 


250  West  and  Central  Africa. 

habits  of  a  tribe  will  suffice,  in  our  opinion,  to  introduce 
a  change.  A  migration  from  a  flat  to  a  mountainous 
country,  for  instance,  would  induce  individuals  who,  up 
to  that  time,  through  living  in  the  valley,  took  no  note 
of  distance  and  had  no  occasion  to  raise  the  voice,  to 
lengthen  the  sound  of  certain  syllables,  singing  their 
phrases,  so  to  speak,  in  order  to  be  heard  from  one 
height  to  another,  without  the  labour  of  drawing  nearer. 
Again,  the  dwelling  near  great  watercourses,  cataracts, 
&c,  would  produce  similar  results,  so  that  a  language 
that  abounded  in  certain  regions,  in  soft  and  flowing 
terminations  might,  in  another,  end  in  hard  finals.  This 
is  the  case  with  the  languages  of  equatorial  Africa;  and 
hence  we  believe  we  have  the  origin  of  that  infinity  of 
dialects  spoken  by  the  southern  tribes. 

According  to  the  able  opinion  of  R.  Hartmann  there 
exists  incontestably  an  intimate  connexion  among  all  the 
African  tongues.  Under  shelter  of  the  dictum  of  that 
illustrious  philologist,  we  likewise  are  free  to  declare  that 
with  respect  to  those  that  are  known  to  ourselves,  a 
similar  relation  exists,  and  that  the  Lu-lundo,  Lun- 
n'bundo,  Lun-cumbi,  Lu-nhaneca,  Tebele,  and  Kaffir, 
represent  dialects  of  one  and  the  same  mother-tongue, 
as  may  readily  be  ascertained  by  an  examination  of  their 
vocabularies.  A  simple  examination  of  the  numerals 
among  the  different  peoples  of  Southern  Africa  will 
suffice  to  confirm  this  assertion,  and  if  the  reader  will 
only  compare  the  lists  of  words  we  append  to  this  work 
with  those  supplied  by  Serpa  Pinto  and  Cameron,  he 
will  admit  the  truth  of  the  remark. 

If,  for  example,  we  take  the  particulars  furnished  by 
the  latter  traveller  we  shall  see  that  the  Rua 7  dialect, 

7  Styled  Qui-rua,  the  syllable  qui  prefixed  to  the  name  of  the  district 
referring  to  the  language  there  spoken. 


Conclusion.  251 

although  at  first  sight  very  different,  expresses  the 
figure  4  by  the  term  tudna;  this,  the  Ban-cumbi  make 
cudna ;  the  Bin-bundo  nana ;  the  Bau-bondo  bicudna  ; 
the  figure  5,  styled  by  the  first,  tutaiio,  becomes  respec- 
tively tdno  and  uitdno.  The  numeral  10  exhibits  an 
extraordinary  similitude,  the  Qui-rua  calling  it  di-cumi, 
the  Lun-cumbi  designating  it  ecumi,  the  Quin-bundo  Ji- 
cumi,  and  the  Lun-bundo  cumi 

This  rapid  analysis  will  suffice  to  make  good  the  truth 
of  our  assertion,  which  a  comparison  of  the  terms  will 
render  more  evident. 

The  African  languages  are  generally  poor,  imperfect, 
complicated  by  most  varied  signs,  which  of  themselves 
complete  a  phrase  through  the  non-existence  of  correla- 
tive ideas.  Thus  it  happens  that  a  speaker  not  to  the 
manner  born,  finds  a  want  of  many  generic  terms  ;  for 
trees  he  discovers  no  other  word  than  woods,  and  has 
no  equivalent  whatsoever  whereby  to  express  certain 
qualities.  We  have  given  one  example  of  this  in  the 
present  volume,  where  the  interpreter,  halting  upon  a 
corresponding  word  for  loyal,  substituted  fat  !  Words 
representing  abstract  ideas  are  rare,  and  are  generalized 
by  means  of  the  infinitives,  to  have,  to  see,  to  run,  &c. 
Where  sex  is  concerned  they  add  to  the  designation  the 
word  man  or  woman ;  thus  a  cock  and  a  hen  in  Quin- 
bundo  are  respectively  expressed  by  ossanja-olume  and 
ossanja-oecai,  meaning  a  man-fowl  and  a  woman-fowl. 
From  this  peculiarity  sprang  those  long-winded  speeches 
which  tried  our  patience  so  severely,  and  the  uncon- 
scionable delay  in  replying  to  the  simplest  question. 

One  curious  fact  is  worth  noticing,  namely  that  the 
savages  show  little  or  no  tendency  to  contradiction.  We 
do  not  say  that  among  themselves,  on  their  own  ground, 
they  do   not  contradict   each  other,   but  thev  never  dis- 


252  West  and  Central  Africa. 

played  such,  inclination  towards  ourselves.  With  us,  it 
was  yes  to  everything,  and  it  at  last  became  so  annoying 
that  we  restricted  as  much  as  possible  our  inquiries ;  for 
it  must  be  allowed  that  it  is  a  little  trying  after  building 
up  a  fabric  with  an  hour's  careful  labour  to  find  the 
whole  edifice  toppled  over  through  your  informants 
answering  affirmatively  to  questions  of  an  exactly  opposite 
character  to  those  whereby  the  building  was  in  the  first 
instance  constructed.  We  suppose  that  as  the  inquiries 
in  no  way  interested  them  they  got  bored,  and  answered 
by  that  monosyllable,  unless  it  were  done  out  of  a  desire 
to  please  or  to  mislead  us. 

All  ideas  respecting  time,  distance,  number,  and 
quantity,  are  very  confused  in  their  minds,  and  occa- 
sionally they  take  a  form  very  puzzling  to  a  European. 
For  instance,  we  once  asked, — 

"  How  long  will  it  take  to  go  from  here  to  the  point 
where  the  Cuaugo  enters  the  Zaire  ?  " 

And  the  question,  after  an  extensive  preamble,  brought 
this  reply, — 

"  You  will  have  to  wear  out  two  pairs  of  sandals  ?  " 

The  same  confusion  was  observable  in  many  of  our 
transactions.  On  one  occasion  we  purchased  an  ox  for 
fifty-four  yards  of  cloth,  and  wanted  to  pay  for  it  in 
pieces  of  stuff  in  this  way, — 

1  entire 18  yards. 

1  broken 15     „ 

1  broken 16     „ 

An  additional  5  yards    .     .  5     „ 

Total  54  yards. 

This  arrangement,  however,  would  not  suit  them  at 
all;  they  insisted  that  the  whole  lot  should  consist  of 
cuttings  of  nine  yards  each  (half -pieces)  the  sum  there- 
fore made  up  as  follows, — 


Conclusion.  2^x 


Complete     .     .9  +  0 
Broken   .     .     .  9  +  G  +  3 
Broken    .     .     .  9  +  7  +  2 


27  +  22  +  5  =  54 


We  have  already  pointed  out  that  in  the  dialects  that 
were  known  to  us,  the  singular  and  plural  were  formed 
by  proper  prefixes,  that  for  the  human  race  they  were 
put  before  the  name  of  the  territory,  viz.,  mu  or  mun  in 
the  singular  ;  ba,  bin  or  ban  in  the  plural ;  and  for  inani- 
mate objects,  qui  or  Vchi  in  the  singular,  and  ma  or  man 
in  the  plural. 

The  prefix  t'chi  may  also  be  used;  and  it   forms  its 
plural  in  bi,  if  applied  to  appellatives,  thus,  we  should 
say- 
leaf,  t'chi-sa/pa — leaves,  bi-safa. 
white-man,  tf  chin-delle — white-men  bin-delle. 
In  the  Lund  a  language  many  appellatives  form  their 
singular  in  run  and  their  plural  in  a,  as  for  instance, — 

woman,  mu-caje — women,  a-caje  ; 
and  even  in  the  Lu-lunda  we  find  the  respective  forma- 
tions of  e  and  mu  ;  for  example, — 

friend,  e-camha — friends,  mu-camba. 
There  are  many  substantives  among  the  Lu-nano  dia- 
lects which  have  another  form  of  plural,  for  instance, — 
wolf,  iibungo — wolves,  djin-bungo. 
crocodile,  n* 'gando — crocodiles,  djin-gando. 
pig,  n'gulo — pigs,  djin-gido. 
bee,  nmique — bees,  dji-n'hique. 
Then  there  is   the  particle  no,   forming  the   radical   of 
people,  with  ba  as  designative  ;  lu  expresses  tongue,  and 
tu  meat. 

The  prefix  ca,  frequently  met  with,  appears  to  be  used 
in  the  sense  of  diminishing  or  making  lower;  and  there- 


254  West  and  Central  Africa. 

fore  the  Ban-gala,  wishing  to  cast  a  slur  on  us,  said  in 
lieu  of  Muene-puto,  Oa-puto ;  and  the  Muata-Yanvo,  when 
speaking  of  a  Lunda  tribe  he  has  subjected,  will  style 
them  Ga-lunda. 

We  cannot  within  the  limits  of  this  work  dilate  at 
greater  length  upon  the  subject  of  language,  the  study 
of  which,  as  yet  exceedingly  backward,  requires  very  per- 
sistent labour ;  the  hints  we  have  thrown  out  may, 
however,  be  of  some  service  to  those  who  have  resolved 
to  make  a  plunge  into  the  difficult  labyrinth. 

Having  thus  given  a  rapid  sketch  of  the  African  tribes, 
of  their  distribution  over  the  territory  we  visited,  of  their 
laws,  religious  belief  or  unbelief,  and  finally  of  their 
idioms,  we  will  now  add  a  few  words  concerning  their 
nutriment. 

It  may  be  absolutely  affirmed  that  the  staple  of  their 
food  or  the  base  of  it  in  the  countries  referred  to,  is  re- 
presented by  the  four  following  articles,  which  vary 
according  to  the  different  regions  :  viz,  Manioc  (Manlhot 
aip)i),  better  known  as  Jatropha  manihot ;  Massambala, 
varieties  of  the  Sorghum  ;  Massango,  scientifically  called 
Penisetum  typhoideum  (now  belonging  to  the  genus 
Penicillaria)  whereof  there  exist  two  varieties,  the 
smooth  and  the  barbed,  due  probably  to  culture ;  and 
Maize  or  Indian  Corn  (Zea  Mais),  which  is  found  there 
also  in  abundance.  All  these  articles  form  bread  after 
being  reduced  to  flour. 

Unfortunately  for  the  native  he  has  no  mill,  so  that  he 
is  obliged  to  resort  to  the  simple  process  of  the  pestle 
and  mortar,  the  only  one  he  knows  to  produce  the  result 
he  requires.  This  method,  however,  almost  always  in- 
volves the  infusion  of  the  root  or  tubercle  to  be  pulverized 
for  a  longer  or  shorter  time,  and  exposure  to  the  sun. 
As  a  natural  consequence  fermentation  ensues,  and  with 


Conclusion.  255 

it  the  necessary  variations,  so  that  all  the  African  flours 
are  heavy,  indigestible,  very  disagreeable  at  the  outset  to 
the  European  palate,  and  never  swelling  sufficiently  to 
make  a  tolerable  bread.  To  this  the  native  adds  what- 
ever else  is  attainable  by  way  of  relish  in  the  shape  of 
meat,  fish,  and  vegetables  ;  a  very  small  quantity  of  the 
latter  being  sufficient  to  provoke  the  consumption  of  some 
pounds  of  the  bread. 

Ginguba  is  likewise  of  great  service  to  them,  and  whole 
tribes  support  themselves  upon  it.  The  Jinga,  the  Ma- 
hungo  and  the  Ma-yacca  consume  extraordinary  quan- 
tities, without  even  the  appliance  of  fire,  and  just  as  they 
pull  it  out  of  the  earth.  Besides  this,  there  are  indigenous 
and  exotic  fruits,  too  many  to  enumerate,  from  the  Vitis 
heracli [folia  to  the  banana,  as  also  the  varieties  of  inliame 
(a  species  of  yam)  tubercles  of  the  helmia,  potatoes,  and 
other  less  known  roots  which  they  devour  greedily.  And 
finally  a  bit  of  sugar-cane  and  a  calabash  of  sour  milk  or 
mead  complete  the  list  of  articles  consumed. 

A  vegetable  diet  is  almost  exclusively  the  rule  through- 
out the  continent.  It  is  only  under  extraordinary 
circumstances  that  an  ox  or  sheep  is  killed  for  consump- 
tion, and  then  the  native,  very  like  a  child,  dances  about 
the  victim  and  gives  loose  to  transports  of  joy  at  the 
unusual  treat.  We  have  frequently  seen  our  men  in 
camp,  upon  the  slaughter  of  an  ox  eagerly  hack  it  to 
pieces,  screeching  with  delight  the  while,  and  not  leave 
even  the  contents  of  its  intestines  unconsumed  !  On  such 
occasions  the  scenes  which  took  place  about  the  smoking 
pipkins  were  really  extraordinary,  ending  in  a  general 
batuque  or  dance,  such  as  we  have  elsewhere  described. 

Bearing  the  deprivation  of  food  for  an  incredibly  long 
time,  the  native  will  content  himself  with  a  few  grains 
of  Arachis  ;  but  when  the  time  comes  to  satisfy  his  appe- 


256  West  and  Central  Africa. 

tite,  lie  is  with  difficulty  satiated.  He  will  take  in 
pound  after  pound  of  flour,  until  his  belly  shines  with 
its  distension  aud  appears  ready  to  burst.  This  is  most 
particularly  the  case  with  the  aged ;  and  with  them, 
as  emptiness  in  turn  supervenes,  the  abdominal  skin, 
through  want  of  elasticity,  forms  into  huge  wrinkles, 
imparting  to  the  body  a  very  unpleasant  and,  indeed, 
repulsive  appearance. 

The  African  generally,  we  are  sorry  to  say  it,  has  a 
decided  propensity  to  drunkenness.  Whether  it  be  that 
we  are  to  look  for  the  cause  of  this  vice  in  the  scarcity 
of  strong  liquors,  and  the  impossibility  of  resisting  them 
when  they  come  to  hand,  or  that  by  their  abuse  the 
negro  finds  a  distraction  from  his  monotonous  and 
miserable  existence,  we  cannot  say,  but  it  is  incontest- 
able that  when  he  gets  hold  of  the  liquor  he  drinks  him- 
self blind  drunk. 

Although  the  potions  they  brew  are  sufficiently 
inebriating — of  course  taken  in  large  quantities — the 
natives  prefer  European  spirit  for  such  a  purpose,  as 
they  find  in  its  effects  a  difference  that  we  will  try  to 
explain. 

At  first  sight  we  might  imagine  that  the  preference 
for  the  latter  was  based  on  the  fact  of  its  being  so  much 
more  powerful  and  producing  its  effects  with  less 
labour ;  but  this  is  not  the  reason ;  the  cause  of  the 
preference,  as  they  explain  it,  is  that  they  get  lively 
drunk  upon  aguardente,  but  sadly  drunk  upon  mead  ! 

We  were  enabled  when  in  Quioco,  to  confirm  this 
opinion  out  of  our  own  experience,  as  regards  the  mead. 
We  happened  to  pay  a  morning  visit  to  a  certain  Sova 
before  we  had  broken  our  fast,  and  were  in  a  manner 
compelled  to  drink  a  great  deal  more  of  the  stuff  than 
was  good  for  us ;  and  on  our  return  to  the  quilombo,  we 


Conclusion.  257 

found  that  we  were  partially  intoxicated,  and  that  the 
visitation  took  a  different  form  to  what  it  does  through 
alcohol  in  Europe.  Not  only  could  we  not  stand 
properly  on  our  legs,  but  there  was  a  sensation  in  the 
brain  of  utter  wretchedness,  a  constant  beating  of  the 
temples,  a  violent  headache,  and  vomiting — -in  fact,  all 
the  sensations  belonging  rather  to  the  poisoning  by 
tobacco,  than  the  cerebral  disturbance  produced  by 
alcohol.  This  being  the  case  it  is  not  suprising  if  a 
special  distinction  should  be  drawn  by  the  natives 
between  their  own  drink  and  that  of  the  Europeans,  as  the 
latter  produces  in  them  sensations  so  different  to  those 
they  can  obtain  from  hydromel  or  other  home-made 
liquor. 

Referring  again  to  their  food,  we  would  remark  that 
the  Africans  do  not  seem  to  eat  so  much  for  the  pleasure 
of  eating  as  for  actual  support.  All  their  dishes  are 
flavourless,  and  are  proper  only  for  the  simplest  palates, 
being  very  far  removed  indeed  from  what  we  consider 
palatable.  They  are  not  averse  to  putrefaction.  On  the 
other  hand  our  condiments,  scents,  and  aromas,  affect 
their  nervous  system  with  most  disagreeable  sensations, 
if  we  may  judge  by  the  wry  faces  they  make  over  them. 
A  fruit  of  any  kind  that  is  very  sweet  and  has  anything 
like  a  turpentine  taste  about  it  pleases  them  infinitely 
more  than  another  which,  from  its  delicate  flavour,  com- 
mends itself  to  our  fancy.  There  are  certain  fruits 
that  are  highly  esteemed  among  them,  and  which  to  us 
are  just  as  repugnant,  such  for  instance  as  a  variety  of 
the  Carica  papaya,  the  scent  of  which  resembles  nothing 
closer  than  that  arising  from  the  fecal  residues  of  the 
canine  race !  Others  again  are  insipid  and  odourless, 
and  are  devoured  with  as  much  gusto  as  some  of  us  would 
display  on  consuming  a  charlotte  russe. 

vol.  11.  s 


258  West  and  Central  Africa. 

The  African  native  having  been  thus  sketched  from  a 
material  point  of  view,  let  us  now  consider  him  from  a 
more  general  and  philosophical  one. 

What  has  the  black  done  and  what  is  he  good  for  ? 
His  history  is  as  ancient  as  that  of  the  white  man. 
Wheresoever  the  latter  has  had  to  struggle  with  the 
rigours  of  an  elevated  temperature  and  a  burning  sun 
we  have  seen  the  former  by  his  side,  devoted  to  the 
most  arduous  labour,  living  in  the  midst  of  misery,  and 
constituting  an  individuality  which,  being  the  product  of 
far  different  circumstances,  appears  as  variable  as  they, 
and  as  difficult  to  emphasize.  His  physical  and  moral 
value  depends  upon  the  direction  given  by  those  in 
authority  over  him ;  and  to  them  belongs  the  duty  of 
placing  him  on  a  relative  scale  of  vice  or  virtue,  and 
modifying  the  propensities  inherent  to  his  nature. 

As,  however,  the  object  has  always  been  to  make 
capital  out  of  him,  the  negro,  at  the  mercy  of  the 
master  (who  had  no  other  object  in  view),  without  an 
opinion,  without  a  standard,  without  a  family  or  a  house- 
hold god,  gave  himself  up,  as  an  infallible  consequence, 
to  all  those  ignoble  passions  to  which  a  low  and  unaided 
nature  is  susceptible.  From  his  tenderest  years  he 
began  to  nourish  a  hatred  for  those  who  had  enslaved 
him — to  long  for  things  beyond  his  reach — to  brood  over 
some  scheme  of  vengeance  ;  and  under  such  circumstances 
he  became  converted  into  what  we  have  seen  and  heard 
tell  of,  an  anomalous  creature,  without  any  defined,  and 
much  less  any  properly  ordered  sentiments  and  qualities. 

It  is  not  he,  certainly,  who  should  bear  the  blame,  but 
those  who  brought  him  to  that  pass.  •  Merchants, 
traders,  middle-men  and  agents  alike,  turned  the  poor 
wretch  to  account,  without  ever  dreaming  of  granting 
him  any  recompense ;   and  from  the  very  first  day  they 


Conclusion.  259 

found  the  negro  incapable  of  wrestling  with  them  intel- 
lectually, they  ostracised  him  from  the  community,  and  on 
the  score  of  his  inferiority,  excused  themselves  from  con- 
sidering him  as  a  brother.  We  do  not  hesitate  to  proclaim 
aloud,  based  upon  our  present  knowledge  of  the  negro, 
that  to  slavery,  but  above  all  to  the  contempt  entertained 
by  civilized  man  for  the  black  race,  is  due  the  unfortunate 
creature's  precarious  moral  position.  To  this  unhappy, 
this  fatal  hatred  of  race  we  owe  it  that  Portuguese, 
English,  French,  Dutch,  and  subjects  of  other  nation- 
alities, have,  at  the  mere  contact  of  the  negro,  completely 
changed  all  their  preconceived  sentiments  of  pity, 
devotion,  and  love;  and,  strange  to  say,  the  more 
northerly  the  European  race,  the  greater  and  more  un- 
yielding the  hatred. 

Speke,  in  his  "  Sources  of  the  Nile,"  exclaims,  "  I  do 
not  deem  the  negro  in  Africa  capable  of  raising  himself 
from  the  inferiority  in  which  he  lives." 

But  what  reasons  can  be  adduced  in  favour  of  such 
an  assertion  ?  Is  it  the  fact  of  such  relative  social  inferi- 
ority ?  But  how  is  the  native  ever  to  rise  out  of  it  while 
he  is  persecuted  on  all  sides  by  the  white  man  ? 

From  time  immemorial  Egypt  has  been  the  point 
whence  issued  all  the  misery  that  found  its  way  into 
the  interior.  The  blacks,  fleeing  in  terror,  became 
gradually  surrounded,  till  scarce  a  resource  was  left 
them ;  and  who  shall  say  whether  those  vast  invasions, 
much  spoken  of  in  the  interior,  all  proceeding  from  the 
north,  Jaggas,  Bondos,  and  Tembos,  were  not  the 
natural  consequence  of  such  persecution ;  and  whether 
the  immense  tribes,  seeing  themselves  beaten  in  that 
direction,  did  not  migrate  towards  the  south?  In  their 
flight  the  negroes  plunged  into  the  wild  and  desert 
country,  where  their  whole  attention  was  taken  up  with 

s  2 


260  West  and  Central  Africa. 

a  struggle  against  the  asperities  of  nature,  and  yet,  in 
the  midst  of  these  difficulties  they  succeeded  in  doing  not 
a  little. 

But  even  here  they  were  not  relieved  from  slavery  ; 
and  the  devastations,  murders,  and  scenes  of  refined 
cruelty  to  which  the  traffic  gave  rise,  constitute  in  our 
mind  an  efficient  reason  to  prevent  any  tendency  towards 
progress. 

But  we  have  arrived  at  a  period  when  things  are 
taking  a  different  turn,  and  have  yet  to  see  the  result 
when  the  incubus  is  entirely  removed.  The  traffic  is 
officially  proscribed  by  all  civilized  nations,  and  as  a 
consequence  the  African  is  on  the  road  to  a  complete 
transformation.  It  is  true  that  in  the  centre  and  north- 
eastern disticts  of  the  great  continent  slavery  still  exists, 
and  travellers  can  point  to  thousands  of  victims  to  the 
practice  in  those  unhappy  lands.  The  origin  lies,  how- 
ever, in  the  baneful  influence  of  the  Arab  race,  the  true 
pest  of  Africa,  against  which  we  in  Europe  should  unite 
in  a  permanent  crusade. 

The  state  of  the  negro  in  the  Portuguese  colonies  (those 
with  which  we  are  best  acquainted  in  Africa)  after  the 
great  and  generous  act  of  the  emancipation  of  the  slaves — 
which  greatly  modified  the  mode  of  being  of  social  life — 
and  the  conditions  of  labour,  have  undergone  a  vast 
change.  Morality  has  made  an  immense  gain;  justice 
and  equity,  being  able  to  act  untrammeled,  have  curbed 
the  maleficent  instincts  of  perverse  natures,  and  inter- 
posed a  shield  between  them  and  the  oppressed;  and 
where  in  former  days  the  poor,  untutored  negro  worked 
beneath  the  lash  of  an  ignorant  colonist,  he  now  finds  a 
man  who  knows  how  to  appreciate  the  value  of  free 
labour  and  to  draw  from  it  advantages  superior  to  those 
previously    obtained.     Ideas,    more    in  consonance  with 


Conclusion.  261 

the  true  principles  of  honesty,  are  spreading  far  and  wide, 
and  a  happier  future  is  visible  to  every  unprejudiced 
eye. 

The  African  cannot  be  supposed  as  yet  to  thoroughly 
comprehend  the  infallible  transformation  that  is  being 
wrought  on  his  behalf,  inasmuch  as  from  time  immemorial 
the  black  has  been  a  slave  without  the  opportunity  of 
proving  that  he  was  susceptible  of  becoming  a  free  man, 
the  head  of  a  family,  and  an  honest  worker ;  but  we  shall 
shortly  see  him  under  just  and  well-pondered  incentives 
pursuing  (perhaps  more  speedily  than  any  of  us  suppose) 
the  track  that  leads  to  perfectibility. 

It  is  necessary,  however,  as  Cameron  observes,  not  to 
forget  that  our  state  of  advancement  is  the  fruit  of  ages 
of  labour,  and  to  expect  the  African  to  attain  to  it  in  a 
couple  of  decades,  implies  an  absurdity.  The  education 
of  the  native  must  be  effected  by  successive  gradations, 
and  it  would  be  a  grave  error  to  impose  upon  him  our 
customs  of  to-day,  without  giving  him  any  previous  pre- 
paration. To  presume  that  a  negro  is  the  equal  of  a 
white  man,  or  to  insinuate  to  him  that  he  is  so,  is  a 
crime;  as  Serpa  Pinto  very  justly  remarks  in  the  para- 
graphs from  his  recent  work,  which  we  transcribe :  — 

"  Some  of  these  missionaries,"  he  says  (vol.  ii.  p.  802), 
"  with  little  knowledge  and  narrow  intellect,  commence 
by  instilling  into  the  natives,  hour  by  hour,  from  the 
sacred  pulpit,  whence  should  only  be  heard  the  accents 
of  truth,  that  they  are  the  equals  of  the  white  man,  that 
they  are  on  a  level  with  the  civilized ;  wrhen  they  ought 
rather  to  say  to  them,  in  the  tones  of  persuasion  and 
authority,  *  Between  you  and  the  European  there  is  a 
wide  gulf  which  I  have  come  to  teach  you  to  bridge  over. 
Regenerate  yourselves ;  quit  your  habits  of  brutish 
sloth;  labour  and  pray;  abandon  crime  and  practise  the 


262  West  and  Central  Africa. 

virtue  which  I  will  show  you ;  cast   off  your  ignorance 

and  learn ; — and  then,  but  not  till  then,  can  you  stand  on 

the  same  level   as  the  white  man  :  then,  and  then  only, 

will  you  be  his  equal.'  " 

&  &  %  #  ■  -  #  * 

"  To  tell  the  ignorant  savage  that  he  is  the  equal  of 
the  civilized  man  is  a  falsehood — it  is  a  crime.  It  is  to 
be  wanting  in  all  those  duties  which  were  imposed  upon 
the  teacher  when  he  set  out  for  Africa.  It  is  to  be  a 
traitor  to  his  sacred  mission." 

We  may  further  add,  to  compel  the  black  man  to  con- 
form to  the  habits  and  mode  of  life  of  the  European,  and 
force  him  to  such  conversion  on  the  spot,  appears  to  us 
most  certainly  an  error.  It  is,  however,  lamentable  that 
the  growing  industry  of  many  nations  will  not  admit 
that  it  is  so ;  moved  simply  by  its  own  interests,  it  does 
not  or  will  not  see  that  the  forcing  itself  into  Africa 
under  pretext  of  acting  for  the  good  of  the  native  tends 
to  no  other  object  than  the  gain  of  the  individual  trader, 
and  the  discovery  of  markets  where  he  can  dispose  of  his 
products,  though  it  involves  the  compelling  a  man  who 
yesterday  was  covered  with  a  cloth  and  stuck  feathers 
in  his  hair  to  mount  a  chimney-pot  hat  and  imprison  his 
arms  in  a  ridiculous  frock  coat ! 

In  religious  matters  the  utmost  care  that  is  used  would 
be  but  little;  special  interests  already  begin  to  show 
themselves  in  the  religious  fervour  with  which  the  missions 
are  invading  Africa.  We  can  foresee,  and  we  venture  to 
point  out  to  the  Governments  concerned,  that  the  pro- 
gress of  the  African  native  towards  civilization  is  likely 
to  receive  a  severe  check  from  this  cause.  The  nations 
of  Europe  are  despatching  missions  from  all  quarters 
with  a  view  to  make  converts.  On  the  other  hand  the 
Arabs,  armed  with  the  Koran,  are  bent  upon  the  same 


Conclusion.  263 

errand  and  making  no  inconsiderable  progress.  What 
with  these  numerous  sects  and  forms,  each  claiming  to 
be  the  expositor  of  the  only  true  faith,  to  the  exclusion 
of  all  others,  the  poor  negro,  already  oppressed  by  his 
chief;  dazed  with  the  recollections  of  the  fetishism  of  his 
fathers,  harassed  by  the  missionaries  who  overwhelm 
him  with  Bibles  and  Korans,  will  shortly  not  know  which 
way  to  turn  for  comfort  or  repose.  If,  from  free  America, 
the  Mormons  should  take  it  into  their  heads  to  come 
over  to  Africa,  with  a  like  object  of  proselytism,  the  con- 
fusion will  be  such  that  only  its  equal  could  be  found 
beneath  the  growing  walls  of  Babel  of  old ! 

It  therefore  strikes  us,  that  the  only  way  out  of  the 
difficulty  is  the  establishment  of  an  international  Catholic 
association,  which  would,  by  means  of  a  general  plan 
having  identical  bases,  administer  spiritual  bread  to  the 
natives  of  the  dark  continent.  We  are  fully  aware  of  the 
obstacles  that  would  have  to  be  overcome  in  procuring 
anything  like  concerted  action  among  nations  whose  forms 
of  faith  are  so  widely  apart,  but  that  problem,  which  we 
do  not  ourselves  attempt  to  solve,  should  prove  the  primary 
care  of  the  spiritual  association.  A  movement  of  this 
nature,  once  recognized  by  all  the  nations  who  have 
undertaken  in  Africa  so  noble  a  task,  would  enjoy  such 
aid  and  protection  as  would  bear  down  any  mere 
sectarian  attempts  and  mainly  frustrate  the  efforts  of  the 
representatives  of  Yatreb's  famous  prophet. 

One  of  the  first  duties  devolving  upon  the  society  would 
be  a  study  of  the  native  dialects  and  the  translation  of 
the  Bible  and  prayer-books  into  those  idioms.  To  begin 
the  conversion  of  the  negro  by  first  teaching  him  Dutch 
or  German  appears  to  us  so  extraordinary  that  we  must 
perforce  consider  the  method  a  useless  waste  of  time. 
Nothing  is  so  painful  to  a  people  as  to  be  ;compelled  to 


264  West  and  Central  Africa. 

abandon  the  language  of  their  fathers,  and  now  that 
Arabic  has  a  tendency  to  spread  over  the  continent,  such 
a  system  as  the  one  we  suggest  would  deal  it  a  heavy 
blow.  This  should  be  followed  by  a  general  plan  of 
social  organization,  having  the  family  for  a  basis,  mutual 
aid  and  remunerative  labour. 

The  native  should  then  be  taught  to  fashion  and  use 
a  plough,  to  extract  iron  from  the  earth  by  the  most  pro- 
fitable means  and  to  combine  it  with  carbon  in  order  to 
produce  steel.  Care  should  be  taken  to  give  him  the 
first  notions  of  a  mill,  to  reveal  to  him  the  mode  of 
turning  to  account  the  immense  water-power  at  his  dis- 
posal, to  point  out  to  him  the  advantages  of  cultivating 
the  ground — these,  and  such  as  these,  should  be  the  objects 
of  missions  in  those  benighted  lands. 

From  the  very  first  day  that  the  negro  sets  eyes  upon 
the  missionary,  he  should  behold  in  him,  not  the  n'gavga 
or  fetishman,  dressed  in  a  black  gown — which  may  very 
well  be  dispensed  with — and  dealing  in  more  or  less 
mysterious  formula,  but  a  superior  guide,  a  kindly  man, 
an  upright  judge,  from  whose  actions  only  good  and 
happiness  should  flow  on  his  behalf.  For  such  a  post 
we  ought  infallibly  to  seek  a  master — not  one  who  would 
attempt  by  overstrained  mysticism  to  teach  the  native 
the  road  to  heaven — but  one  who  could  place  him  in  a 
position  to  overcome  the  difficulties  of  some  primary  in- 
dustry on  earth.  The  missionaries  should  therefore  be 
themselves  educated  in  the  practical  and  utilitarian 
methods  of  the  applied  arts,  to  the  exclusion  of  a  like 
proportion  of  apocalyptical  and  wearisome  theological 
study.  Commerce  would  become  gradually  developed, 
in  proportion  as  necessities  arose;  labour  grown  into  a 
habit,  would  exercise  its  moralizing  iufluence ;  from  the 
sacrifices  made  thereto  would  spring  a  knowledge  of  value 


Conclusion,  265 

and  of  economy,  together  with  the  conviction  that  by  its 
influence  a  well-being  was  acquired  which  further  perse- 
verance would  make  greater.  Other  natural  results 
would  follow,  such  as  the  desire  to  possess,  and  the 
wish  to  leave  those  possessions  to  natural  successors, 
and  thereby  secure  the  comfort  of  those  whom  a  purer 
life  had  taught  the  negro  to  hold  in  affection.  By  such 
a  course  of  education  what  would  a  negro  become  ?  We 
answer,  a  being  like  ourselves  ;  and  we  believe  that  most 
experienced  persons,  who  have  devoted  their  attention  to 
the  subject,  will  give  the  same  reply. 

The  future  of  the  great  continent  will  depend  upon 
many  kinds  of  exploration,  among  which  mining  will 
doubtless  take  the  lead  ;  and  this  will  be  followed,  as  a 
natural  consequence,  by  agriculture.  The  rich  and 
varied  native  productions  of  the  vegetable  kingdom, 
and  the  facility  of  acclimatizing  exotics,  will  un- 
doubtedly soon  induce  the  colonizer  to  devote  attention 
to  a  soil  whence  can  be  drawn  such  inexhaustible  trea- 
sures. 

It  is  in  fact  marvellous  to  note  the  accumulation  and 
variety  of  articles,  chiefly  vegetable,  of  those  fertile  lands. 
The  imagination  is  bewildered  with  the  sight  of  the  mul- 
titude of  gigantic  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  that  are  little 
if  at  all  known.  It  would  occupy  many  pages  to  enu- 
merate with  anything  like  minuteness  the  wealth  of  the 
productive  soil. 

Setting  aside  for  the  present  the  trade  in  ivory — which, 
to  a  certain  extent,  is  on  the  decline,  although  perhaps 
the  richest  of  the  whole  and  which,  as  regards  the 
Portuguese  colony,  is  specially  carried  on  by  the  roads 
connecting  Cassange  with  the  Lunda,  the  Bihe  with  the 
Catanga  and  Lua,  and  along  the  Cubango  to  Bucusso — 
our  narrative  will  show  the  interest  that   should  attach 


266  West  and  Central  Africa. 

to  a  methodical  exploration  of  the  vast  territories  in  the 
interior  of  the  continent. 

On  leaving  the  littoral,  we  find  in  the  vegetable 
kingdom  the  sugar-cane,  which  grows  in  the  valleys  of 
the  great  rivers,  such  as  the  Cuanza,  the  Cu-vo,  the 
Lu-oje,  &c,  and  even  in  more  elevated  positions,  where 
water  is  abundant,  for  instance  in  the  Dombe  and  else- 
where. Even  at  the  present  day  it  produces  aguardente 
in  sufficient  quantity  to  supply  the  necessities  of  the 
native,  and  might,  by  great  development,  furnish  all  the 
markets  of  Europe  with  sugar.  The  broca,  and  more 
recently  another  worm  not  less  destructive,  have,  it  is 
true,  attacked  the  plantations  and  destroyed  great 
part  of  the  cane.  Careful  study  would,  however,  as  a 
natural  consequence,  discover  some  process  of  a  kind  to 
prevent  the  destructiveness  of  these  insects. 

Alongside  the  cane  we  have  those  noteworthy  palms 
such  as  the  Ela'is  guinensis,  the  pulp  of  whose  fruit  yields, 
after  lengthened  steeping,  a  thick,  red  oil,  of  tolerable 
flavour  before  it  gets  rancid,  called  palm-oil,  and  the  stone 
of  which  produces  an  empyreumatic  oil  that  finds  a  ready 
sale  in  Europe. 

Moreover,  we  find  the  hyjphame  and  borassus  with 
leaves  that  are  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  hats  and 
other  articles.  The  Adansonias,  whose  inner  shell  fibres 
form  the  licomte,  greatly  used  at  the  present  day  in  the 
making  of  cloth  and  paper.  The  palmachristi,  adapted 
for  medicinal  purposes.  The  aloe,  which  grows  profusely. 
Tobacco,  found  everywhere,  that  of  Ambaca  having  a  fine 
aroma.  Hemjo  is  not  less  frequent.  Cotton  in  abundance, 
and  of  various  qualities,  grows  throughout  the  Province. 
Then  we  have  coffee,  already  appreciated  in  our  markets, 
and  covering  the  whole  of  the  mountainous  region ;  the 
best  being  obtainable  at  Cazengo.   Givguba,  yielding  much 


Conclusion.  267 

oil,  and  whereof  the  stores  on  the  high  table-land  of 
Ambaca  and  in  the  eastern  territories  appear  inexhaus- 
tible. Pepper  is  met  with  everywhere.  Bice,  from  the 
quantities  we  observed  in  the  Bihe  growing  on  the  high 
land,  must  be  cultivated  on  a  large  scale.  Maize  grows 
very  freely,  whether  in  Callengues,  Caconda,  or  Duque  de 
Braganca.  Sorgho  is  widely  spread  in  the  interior,  and 
constitutes  generally  in  those  parts  the  food  of  the  native. 
Nor  is  the  massango,  upon  which  the  Ganguellas  and 
Maquioco  are  mainly  supported,  less  abundant. 

Among  other  products  we  have  the  Elemi  balsam,  in 
extraordinary  quantities  ;  Copal  gum,  the  trees  producing 
which  are  found  both  upon  the  coast  and  in  the  interior 
in  extensive  woods  ;  india-rubber,  produced  from  colossal 
climbers  ruthlessly  cut  down  by  the  natives  to  extract 
the  sap  ;  dragon's  blood,  the  working  of  which  has  already 
been  attempted  ;  taenia,  that  is  permanently  collected  in 
the  Jinga ;  and  many  others  too  numerous  for  our  work. 

In  the  animal  kingdom  we  must  mention  ivory,  alluded 
to  elsewhere,  as  represented  by  the  tusks  of  the  elephant 
and  sea-horse,  eagerly  sought  for  throughout  the  con- 
tinent, and  rhinoceros  horns. 

There  is  abundance  of  bees'  icax,  obtained  mainly  from 
the  Ganguellas  ;  of  silk  both  of  the  spider  and  the  hang- 
ing cocoons  already  referred  to  in  this  volume ;  and  of 
marabout  and  ostrich  feathers  which  find  their  way  into 
most  markets.  There  are  ox-hides  in  plenty :  and  the 
skins  of  such  wild  animals  as  lions,  panthers,  leopards, 
and  other  smaller  creatures  are  pretty  readily  obtainable. 

Of  minerals,  whereof  mention  has  more  than  once  been 
made,  we  discover  iron  in  the  specular  or  hematite  form. 
Sulphur  in  the  chalks;  copper  in  all  the  mountainous 
regions  and  in  the  interior,  appearing  to  be  run  in  the 
form  of  a  cross;  coal,  discoverable  in  one  or  two  places; 


268  West  and  Central  Africa. 

gold  in  the  Lombije  and  other  parts  ;  silver  in  the  Jinga 
(Dallango),  Cambambe,  &c. ;  and  rock  salt  in  many  terri- 
tories of  the  continent. 

These  simple  data  will  suffice  to  give  a  rough  idea  of  the 
wealth  of  this  vast  continent,  which,  under  European 
guidance,  should  show  a  prosperity  in  the  future  that 
will  not  yield  the  palm  even  to  America. 

Its  colonization,  however,  is  a  great  problem,  and  Tvill 
require  very  serious  study.  The  life  of  the  European  in 
tropical  Africa,  if  not  at  the  present  time  impossible,  is, 
to  say  the  least  of  it,  full  of  perils  and  difficulties.  The 
main  object,  therefore,  at  the  outset  must  be  to  endeavour 
to  modify  the  circumstances  which  now  beset  him;  to 
establish  populous  centres  ;  to  create  the  necessary  means 
for  his  existence ;  and  in  a  word  to  render  the  African 
territory  salubrious. 

The  immediate  measures  which  present  themselves  for 
such  a  purpose  are  two,  viz.,  to  connect  by  roads,  con- 
veniently disposed,  certain  points  of  the  interior  with  the 
coast ;  and  to  direct  the  waters  of  the  great  rivers,  so  as 
to  drain  the  marshes  and  the  low-lying  grounds,  and 
thereby  modify  that  vegetative  force — which  is  the  origin 
of  all  the  unhealthiness — to  the  advantage  of  the  loftier 
regions,  whose  vegetation  would,  in  such  case,  become 
more  highly  developed. 

The  numerous  cataracts  of  the  African  rivers  though 
causing  in  many  places  an  obstacle  to  navigation,  never- 
theless facilitate  the  distribution  of  the  waters.  To 
conduct  those  waters  from  the  river-heads,  by  a  combined 
system  of  irrigation,  to  properly  selected  and  salubrious 
sites ;  to  use  them  as  an  element  of  life  to  the  vegetable 
kingdom  and  as  a  potent  motive  power  for  thousands  of 
mills  and  factories  ;  to  drain  them  wheresoever  necessary, 
and  never  allow  them  to  stagnate ;  in  fine,  to  control  and 


Conclusion.  269 

direct  the  waters  of  the  continent  should  be  the  civilizer's 
first  care  on  behalf  of  those  most  fertile  lands  in  the  more 
elevated  regions. 

It  may  be  objected  that  so  vast  a  problem  can  only  be 
solved  in  the  course  of  thousands  of  years,  and  that  the 
best  course  to  pursue  is  to  be  satisfied  with  things  as  they 
are.  But  to  this  we  will  reply,  that,  though  the  hints  we 
have  thrown  out  never  contemplated  a  speedy  solution, 
they  represent  ideas  which  might  be  at  once  initiated,  by 
way  of  showing  the  direction  that  the  herculean  labour 
should  take,  more  especially  in  regard  to  roads  and  the 
establishment  of  colonies. 

It  will  have  been  gathered  from  several  passages  in 
these  volumes  that  a  residence  on  the  high  ground  is  best 
adapted  for  the  preservation  of  health,  and  we  will  add 
here,  that  if  a  European  has  a  chance  of  living  at  a  height 
of  3000  feet,  he  ought  not  to  pitch  his  tent  at  300.  It 
is  true  that  the  more  lofty  territory  is  at  the  present  time 
relatively  more  bare  ;  but  inasmuch  as  all  the  great  rivers 
take  their  rise  in  the  elevated  ground,  with  such  a  soil, 
under  the  influence  of  sun  and  water,  all  apprehensions 
as  to  the  risk  of  labour  and  capital  being  expended  un- 
profitably  may  be  cast  to  the  winds. 

On  account  of  its  special  orographic  character  and 
peculiar  climatic  circumstances,  Africa  offers  a  great  con- 
trast to  the  continents  in  the  northern  hemisphere.  Her 
great  cities,  her  vast  marts,  her  commercial  emporiums, 
will  infallibly  have  to  be  established  in  the  interior,  and 
the  more  so  where  approaching  the  equatorial  region. 
It  is  on  the  lofty  savannas  of  the  Quioco,  on  the  moun- 
tains of  Quillengues,  on  the  plateau  of  the  Huilla,  noted 
for  their  salubrity,  that  we  shall  see  successively  planted 
the  earliest  colonies,  if  it  be  desired  to  live  and  progress 
under  the  influence  of  the  climate  of  the  great  continent. 


2  yo  West  and  Central  Africa. 

On  the  coast  the  miserable  little  Qomptoir  must  still  exist, 
isolated  in  the  midst  of  arid  lands,  under  the  direction 
of  some  native  or  sickly  European,  but  for  the  mere 
purpose  of  attending  to  the  transit,  depositing  merchan- 
dise and  produce,  and  superintending  their  landing  and 
shipment.  No  earthly  good  can  ever  come  of  a  residence 
on  that  sterile  threshold,  where  the  stoutest  labourer, 
with  the  best  of  wills,  must  sicken  and  die,  yielding  to  the 
earth  his  own  spoils  in  lieu  of  himself  reaping  any  per- 
manent advantage.  No ;  the  road  lies  inwards  and 
upwards.  On  the  high  table-land  where  the  fresh 
breezes  blow;  where  the  European  can  breathe  freely, 
and  where  he  will  live  for  months  together  in  a  tempera- 
ture containing  so  little  variation  that  were  it  not  from 
constant  watching  of  the  thermometer  the  figures  would 
appear  incredible,  as  the  following  tables  will  show  : — 


Conclusion. 


271 


January. 

February. 

00 

O 

."=     CD 

bo  0 

C    *-< 
CO 

(-1 

CO 

0 
< 

£ 

CD 

B 

CD 

H 

i  J 

a. 2 
-3  a 

tC  CD 

5? 

w 
0 

a 
■+3 

< 

CD          N 
U 

H 

u 

CD 
Ph 

g 

CD 

EH 

0       / 

0       ( 

ft, 

0      f 

ft. 

1 

2 
3 

— 

— 

— 

— 

:  13.41 

15.02 

5387 

69 

— 

— 

— 

— 

i> 

, 

„ 

4 

— 

— 

— 

— 

>. 

5) 

1 

«j 

5 

— 

— 

— 

— 

>5 

» 

» 

70 

6 

— 

— 

— 

— 

., 

II 

♦ 

» 

7 

— 

— 

— 

— 

,, 

)> 

, 

„ 

81 

13.44 

15.02 

5387 

69 

;, 

» 

, 

., 

9 

j> 

„ 

11 

j> 

>> 

, 

„ 

10 

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„ 

») 

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„ 

, 

71 

11 

>> 

j> 

„ 

>i 

J) 

j 

„ 

12 

>j 

>j 

>5 

j» 

» 

, 

— 

13 

>> 

>? 

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,, 

„ 

, 

— 

14 

>) 

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„ 

13.412 

15.18 

5157 

72 

15 

>> 

>> 

IS 

j     13:40 

15.21 

5347 

,, 

16 

»> 

!> 

>> 

13.39 

15.24 

5095 

71 

17 

>> 

>> 

>5 

13.37 

15.26 

5285 

„ 

18 

>j 

>J 

>J 

13.33 

15.32 

,, 

72 

19 

>> 

)> 

J' 

!     13.29 

15.38 

5216 

71 

20 

„ 

„ 

„ 

13.25 

15.43 

5157 

— 

21 

>j 

)) 

„ 

i     13.21 

15.49 

5151 

7l    : 

22 

,, 

JJ 

J) 

13.19 

15.54 

5338 

— 

23 

>) 

)> 

,, 

13.15 

15.59 

5575 

69 

24 

)5 

>> 

>> 

i     13.08 

16.03 

5610 

„ 

25 

,, 

>> 

>> 

13.02 

16.08 

5430 

„ 

26 

)) 

>> 

„ 

12.58 

16.13 

5338 

70 

27 

>> 

„ 

>) 

12.53 

16.20 

5568 

„ 

28 

>> 

,, 

„ 

— 

„ 

„ 

„ 

,, 

29 

II 

„ 

„ 

— 

— 

— 

30 

3> 

J) 

>) 

— 

— 

— 

— 

31 

" 

» 

J> 

1       ~~ 

— 

— 

— 

1  In  Cacoi 

ida. 

9 

On  the  journey. 

272 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


March. 

April. 

r 

m 
P 

h3 

©.2 

bfi  CD 

a  fn 

M 

0 
rd 

pi 

3 

3 

1 

CD 

B 

CD 
EH 

CD 

CD    O 
1    S 

So  © 

0  rh 

0     f 
16.50 

m 

CD 

0 

53 

Fh 

CD 
&. 

s 

CD 

1 

0       / 

12.48 

0      / 

16.27 

ft. 
5610 

69 

O       / 

12.22 

ft. 

5161 

_ 

2 

12.14 

16.31 

5443 

„ 

55 

„ 

„ 

69 

3 

12.39 

16.34 

5397 

— 

5) 

,, 

»» 

55 

4 

12.37 

16.37 

5337 

55 

55 

55 

>s 

70 

5 

12.31 

16.41 

5291 

55 

„ 

„ 

>5 

55 

6 

12.28 

16.43 

5421 

55 

,, 

55 

,5 

55 

7 

12.26 

,, 

55 

— 

55 

„ 

„ 

55 

8i 

12.22 

1650 

5161 



,, 

55 

„ 

72 

9 

>> 

„ 

55 

55 

,, 

„ 

„ 

55 

10 

»> 

»» 

„ 

55 

„ 

v, 

5> 

55 

11 

>> 

55 

.5 

55 

55 

55 

55 

12 

»i 

55 

55 

55 

»> 

55 

55 

13 

» 

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55 

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55 

55 

14 

>» 

55 

55 

>5 

JJ 

» 

55 

15 

„ 

„ 

55 

— 

„ 

„ 

„ 

16 

„ 

55 

5157 

70 

„ 

}> 

55 

17 

„ 

»5 

5161 

55 

M 

»> 

~ 

18 

„ 

55 

55 

„ 

» 

74 

19 

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J5 

55 

55 

55 

55 

20 

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55 

55 

55 

55 

" 

72 

21 

>> 

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55 

55 

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55 

22 

»> 

55 

55 

55 

I 

J> 

23 

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71 

»> 

55 

24 

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55 

55 

55 

55 

71 

25 

55 

55 

55 

70 

„ 

72 

26 

55 

„ 

55 

5, 

55 

55 

27 

55 

55 

55 

69 

)> 

— 

28 

55 

55 

55 

55 

>, 

55 

29 

55 

55 

55 

70 

„ 

— 

30 

„ 

„ 

55 

55 

55 

71 

31 

J5 

55 

55 

55 







— 

1 

On  the  journey. 

Conclusion. 


273 


May. 

June. 

>s 

■  / 

0   ^ 

05 
Q 

en 
0 

13 

eS 

h3 

US 

J5 

DO 

3 

0          \ 
St 

u 

9 

6 

0 

gq 

CD 

e3 

CD  .2 

■5     C 

fcc  0 

c  0 

CO 

© 

5 

a 
og 

0 
H 

0      1 

0    / 

fc. 

1 

0       / 

0     / 

ft. 

1 

12.22 

16.50 

5161 

71 

11.53 

17.38 

3770 

68 

2 

>> 

j> 

„ 

72 

„ 

j> 

„ 

3 

>> 

„ 

,. 

„ 

}> 

,, 

33 

4 

j> 

5) 

» 

~ 

it 

„ 

„ 

5 

>> 

>> 

„ 

71 

>> 

3) 

33 

6 

n 

j> 

>> 

70 

11.491 

17.42 

3740 

7 

?> 

>> 

„ 

)> 

11.45 

17.45 

3898 

8 

„ 

„ 

„ 

,, 

11.46 

17.51 

3688 

9 

>> 

>j 

„ 

71 

11.43 

17.53 

3527 

69 

10 

,j 

j> 

„ 

33 

11.41 

17.58 

3536 

11 

>j 

>» 

>> 

— 

>j 

>> 

33 

12 

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j> 

„ 

72 

,, 

,, 

3) 

68 

13 

>> 

)> 

„ 

71 

,, 

„ 

33 

14 

?> 

,s 

,, 

70 

11.37 

18.00 

3642 

15 

>> 

„ 

,, 

» 

11.333 

18.06 

3648 

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16i 

" 

5) 

„ 

— 

33 

„ 

j  3 

17 

12.18 

17.02 

4803 

— 

„ 

„ 

33 

18 

„ 

33 

>» 

69 

33 

3) 

33 

19 

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33 

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67 

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jj 

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3) 

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68 

33 

33 

33 

23 

,, 

33 

„ 

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53 

33 

24 

12.11 

17.07 

4413 

— 

33 

33 

33 

25 

,  12.09 

17.14 

4200 

68 

33 

3) 

33 

26 

12.04 

17.22 

4494 

„ 

33 

33 

„ 

27 

11.58 

17.30 

4029 

)> 

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18.15 

3902 

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11.53 

17.38 

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33 

3  > 

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33 

69 

81 

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" 





— 

— 

1  On  the 

journey. 

2  On  th 

e  Cu-anza. 

3  Mok 

goa.            4  Cka-N'ga 

nji. 

VOL.    II 


274 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


July. 

August. 

r 

03 
>, 

CO 

A 
1 

cs 
»-3 

©.2 

be  o 

CO 

CD 

3 

f-t 

ft 

B 

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H 

m 
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11.05 

03.2 

h-3 

m 
CD 

©     \ 

Fh 

"eg 
Fh 
oj 

P-. 

s 

OJ 

H 

11.33 

o      » 

18.15 

ft. 

3902 

68 

18.59 

ft. 
4396 

70 

2 

ss 

j> 

33 

33 

33 

>> 

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IS 

3 

ss 

)» 

33 

»S 

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„ 

J 

M 

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11.27 

18.22 

— 

66 

„ 

n 

y 

„ 

5 

11.25 

18.31 

3839 

3? 

33 

» 

, 

SS 

6 

>j 

>> 

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64 

33 

n 

s> 

„ 

7 

11.24 

18.39 

4075 

55 

35 

33 

> 

»3 

8 

11.22 

18.46 

4250 

„ 

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„ 

3> 

33 

9 

„ 

S3 

'j 

66 

3> 

,, 

„ 

„ 

102 

11.21 

18.50 

4265 

„ 

11.001 

19.01 

3893" 

>> 

11 

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>> 

65 

10.54 

19.02 

— 

— 

12 

S3 

„ 

66 

10.50 

19.05 

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— 

13 

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10.46 

19.06 

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67 

4 

19.08 

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33 

33 

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S3 

19 

33 

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35 

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53 

20 

33 

33 

69 

33 

S3 

S3 

33 

21 

„ 

31 

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53 

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33 

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I 

221 

11.15 

18.52 

4396 

— 

33 

33 

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33 

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— 

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55 

S3 

71 

24 

11.10 

18.54 

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— 

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S3 

72 

253 

11.05 

18.59 

S3 

69 

1 
J' 

„ 

SS 

„ 

26 

j) 

,, 

33 

33 

10.40 

19.07 

3935 

S3 

27 

j? 

33 

,, 

33 

10. 365 

19.06 

3743 

S3 

28 

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33 

„ 

33 

10.34 

33 

3875 

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29 

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33 

33 

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31 

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33 

» 

33 

S3 



1  Onthejourn 

ey.      2  N'l 

)umba  Tern 

bo.      3  Mm 

'hande.      4 

Catuchi.      5  Muene  T'chiquilla. 

Conclusion.  275 

Great  and  rapid  means  of  communication  become  there- 
fore inevitable.  None  more  than  the  African  colonist 
will  need  the  railway  because  none  more  than  he  will 
dread  the  littoral.  From  the  sea-board,  we  repeat,  he 
must  fly,  for  if  he  attempt  to  settle  there,  he  will  fail  to 
a  dead  certainty,  and  by  that  fact  will  help  to  condemn 
the  great  continent  to  the  immobility  in  which  we  behold  it 
to-day.  Emigration,  therefore,  from  the  civilized  nations 
of  Europe  should  only  be  set  on  foot  with  a  view  to  the 
colonization  of  Africa  when  the  latter  is  in  a  position  to 
offer  the  chief  of  guarantees — the  means  of  transport  to  a 
healthy  region. 

Every  attempt  in  this  direction  will  foster  such  coloni- 
zation ;  but  simply  to  convey  the  colonist  to  the  low-lying 
region,  and  compel  him  to  set  to  work  in  the  valleys 
where  enormous  rivers  are  ever  flowing,  and  where  marshy 
ground  is  permanent,  is  to  consign  him  to  destruction. 
The  object  should  be  to  gain  the  interior  with  the  least 
possible  loss  of  time;  to  establish  the  European  with  the 
utmost  amount  of  conveniences  about  him  ;  to  destroy, 
by  means  of  a  well-directed  administration,  the  relative 
repugnance  of  the  negro  to  anything  in  the  shape  of  labour, 
by  making  such  labour  obligatory  and  rewarding  him  for 
the  work  done;  to  create  vast  centres  of  population, 
connected  with  each  other  by  the  regular  navigation  of 
the  extensive  watercourses  of  the  interior,  or  properly 
arranged  roads  ;  to  shun  the  fatal  influence  of  the  marshy 
ground  by  smothering  it — in  other  words,  by  guiding  on 
to  it  the  nearest  watercourses ;  for  by  means  such  as 
these,  the  great  problem,  of  so  much  interest  to  Europe, 
will  be  finally  solved. 

Let  such  rivers  as  are  navigable  in  the  interior  be 
turned  to  account ;  and  from  the  extreme  points  of  their 
navigableness  let  railways   connect  them  with  the  coast 

t  2 


276  West  and  Central  Africa. 

so  as  to  provide  an  economic  and  rapid  means  of 
transport. 

To  the  railway,  especially,  that  most  precious  resource 
of  modern  civilization — that  powerful  instrument  of  all 
progress — we  must  look  as  the  greatest  auxiliary  in  the 
gigantic  work  we  contemplate. 

The  locomotive,  whistling  as  it  flies  through  the  vast 
African  forests,  will  doubtless  produce  the  same  magical 
effects  as  have  hitherto  accompanied  its  course.  Travers- 
ing great  distances  with  the  velocity  which  is  part  of  its 
nature,  it  will  carry  resources,  life  and  labour,  into  places 
where,  till  that  time,  nature  in  her  wildness  alone  reigned, 
transform  desert  tracts  into  habitable  land,  convert 
marshes  into  parks  and  gardens  ;  in  a  word,  it  will  raise 
Africa  to  the  height  occupied  by  the  other  continents  of 
the  world,  and  relieve  humanity  of  one  of  her  greatest 
stains,  namely,  the  leaving  so  large  a  portion  of  her 
family  still  grovelling  in  a  state  of  savagery. 

Having  thus  put  forward  our  facts  and  ventilated  our 
opinions,  we  have  only  to  exclaim  with  the  fabulist : — 

Nisi  utile  est  quodfacimus,  stulta  est  gloria. 


TABLE 

OP 

GEOGRAPHICAL  OBSERVATIONS 

MADE    DUEING   THE 

EXPEDITION  OF  1877—1880. 


2? 


03 

O  Hp  HP  O  O         CO 
CO  ^P  -^  W0  CO          O 

wOOOOrHOO        OOOOOOi>                         OOOOO 

3 

CO  CO   CO  W0  i— IH  CO          T  CO  CM   CM   CO  CO  CO                                 H  H   fO  CO  CO 

-g 

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GEOGRAPHICAL    COORDINATES. 


January 


February    11 


April 
Way 


Loanda '     . 

Benguella  .' 
Dombe  .     . 
Dombe  . 
Dombe  . 
Dombe  2 
Quillengues 
QuilleDgues 

N'Gola  .     . 
Caconda 3    .     . 
Lagoa  T'chicor.d 
Cu-nene 

Caconda 
Caconda 

Colo'Ja  '. 
Cu-nene 
Cu-nene 
Otoari    . 

Cubango 
Cu-baiigo 
Behnonte 
Bolmonte 
l,Miilninlio 
Bihe*     . 

'Ojlileque 

(.hiileipic 
Nutria" 

Calongo 
Cahuv^o 


alt.  mer.  _f£. 
nier..Q. 


mer.  £_ 
mer.  _Q 


ioo.k.-, 

98,40 
102,111 
100,15 
100,01 


■iO.17.  16 
91,10 
91,99 


116,91 
61,99 


7.07.22.0H 
7.22.15.00 
3.26.17.00 

l.oi.:;  i.oo 


o.os.os.no 

7.08.11,30 
1,41.00.00 
20.50.21.00 
2.00.59.00 
7.32.12.30 
8.00.2 

6.03.08.00 
5.16.36.00 
10.59.57.30 
57.41.30 
22.30.20  30 
31.02.00 
20.32.19.00 
3.31.58.00 

8.06.06.30 

6.19.14.30 
0.19.59.00 
N.OS  15.01) 


3.21,15.30 
3.25.03.30 
3.25.12.30 
0.08.54.30 
0.09.36.30 
0.09.47.30 
0.09.58.30 

0.10.14,54 
0.10.29.51 
0.10.31.54 
0.10.35.00 
0.11.31.00 
0.13.08.30 
0.13.32.00 
0.16.33.08 
0.18.21,00 
0.18.06.09 
0.1S.16.00 
0.18.22.00 


Sub.     0.18.55.40 
0.18.55.40 

O.IK.  u.s. (HI 


0. 

alt.  .(£ 
a.m. 
ialt._0_ 

£L 
£L 


117  20 
1  17,20 
117.84 
55,27 


51.57.34 
92.03.40 

59.36.50 

13,58 
79,71 
92,62 

101.15  20 
76.17.24 
17.57.10, 
li;.3(i.5( 
19: 

38,47 

186,21 
86,52 
38.37 

:is,(;7 


2S0.50 
276,5 


Latitude-   Longitude 


8.17.57 
12.31.17 
12.55.11 
12.55.30 


13.11.00 
13.44.00 
13.41.30 
13.2N.30 
13.20.41 

13.00.00 
12.57.10 
12.57.10 
12.21,19 
12.21.49 


13.22.30 
13.(17,11 
13.07,14 
13.07.50 
13.07.30 

14,05.03 


15.32.30 
15.30.30 
15.03.50 
15.00.11 
1519.10 
15.30.30 

15.43.40 
16.01.30 
16.13.20 
16.13. 

16.12.30 
10.12.30 
10.10.37 


12.08.30  |  17.16.10 

'.06.10  | 

.51,50  |  17.31,30  I 

17.34.30  | 

17.3-l.3ll  , 


Bandua  .     .     . 

Cba-Calumbo  . 
Cha-Calumbo  . 
Mongda .     .     . 


Mongoa  6  .  . 
Mongoa .  .  . 
Mongoa .  .  . 
Mongoa .  .  . 
Mongoa .  .  . 
Cba-N'ganji  . 
Cha-N'ganji  . 
Cba-N'ganji  . 
Cha-N'ganji  . 
Cha-N'ganji  . 
Cha-N'ganji  6  . 
Matari  .  .  . 
Cba-Cassingo  7 
Cangombe .  . 
Muene  Quibau 

Cangombe  .  . 
Muene  C'  je  8  . 
Chaufana  .  . 
Jluene  C'hicanj 
N'Dumba  Mughande 
Cha-Calumb( 


Cu-ango 
Cu-ango 
Cat-Louis 
Cu-ango 


- 

~ 

mer.  £1 

61,37 

mer.  JJ. 

104,81 

mer.  Q 

60,925 

2  alt.  £i 

109.38.00 

mer.  _0_ 

60,88 

mer.  .©_ 

60,89 

^ 

mer.  P> 

55.2657 

mer.  "5) 

100,7 

mer.  0 

62,536 

" 

56.55  53 

mer.  0 

59.05.09 

60  22.35 

61.25.15 

alt.  mer.  0 

60.52.30 

rner.£L 

61.15.13 

62.03.40 

62.45.30 

63  07.24 

64.05.35 

61.44,22 

1.41.00 
!.02.00 
J.20.30 

.21.30 
i.11.30 

1.3  130 


57.00 
30.30 

25.30 


Sub.     0.19.17 
0.19.23 


0. 19.28,11 
0.19.53.00 
0.19.16.00 
0.20.03.19 
0.20.20.30 
0.20.23.00 
0.20.27.00 
0.20,10.30 
0.20.51.30 
0.20.57.00 
0.21.02.30 


0.21.25.30 
0.21.34.30 
0.21.13.00 
0.21.48.00 
0.21.57.00 
0.22.15.00 


17.31.30 
17.34,30 


39,63 

36.10.10 
33,51 
45,19 
30,84 


76  2 
61,5 
71,5 

77,0 


81,0 
87,7 


11.34.05 

18.00.30  1 

—           18.08.30  1 

11.34.02      18.08.30  1 

—           18.09.00  1 

—           18.09.00 

—           18.09.00 

— 

18.09.00 

11.32.43 

. — 

— 

18.23.00 

— 

18.23.00 

— 

18.23.00 

— 

18.23.00 

11.30.12 

18.20.16 

11.23.30 

18.38.10 

11.20.51 

18.50.00 

11.27.00 

19.11.30 

— 

18.50.00 

— 

18.50.00 

11.00.40 

18.55.30 

10.52.04 

18.39.59 

10.34.23 

18.37.05 

11.07.02 

18.56.30 

10.30.00 

18.39.51 

10.27.22 

18.38.38 

10.18.03 

18.32.38 

10.12.50 

18.34,05 

10.06.14 

18.43.30 

10.03.05 

18.43.05 

1  The  error  of  the  ul,!„,  mis  then  2  2  : 
..(id  fnicti.ms  rcpie--ent  (he  de-rces  i„ 
divide']  ;  (he  uthtrs  are  decrees,  minute; 
the  former  insminieiit  rihcaily  reduced. 


b.  The  iiHitudes  expressed  in  decin 
which  Mr.  d'Abbudie's  instrumen 
seconds,  and  thirds  of  the  sextant,  c 


;  error  of  the  abba  was  0,00  sub.,  reluced  thereafter  to  zero. 


•'  The  error  of  the  sextant  was  2'. 
u  Passage  of  Mei  cury  over  the  face  of  the  sun. 
<•  Satellite  of  Jupiter. 
'  Error  of  abba  0,1  do  snb. 

»  The  elements  of  calculation  from  25th  July  to  18th  November,  mamly  longi- 
tudes, were  lust  in  the  fire  at  the  Duque  de  Bragauca. 


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28 
1879. 
February  18 


N'DumbaTYhiquill. 


Cassanje  .  . 
Oassanjo  .  . 
Cassanje  .  . 
Bauza  e  Lunda 


Meridian  All  ituilcs. 


O5.oo,n 

(5.3.  IS. 21 
Gil  31.50 


Cnsi-aiijo  .  .  . 
Bio  Lu-i  .  .  . 
N'Guii   .... 

X'Hala  Samba  . 
N'l  >ala  Samba     . 


,1.1m: 


llue 


i  Tango  . 
.  Qniluunje 


Dnque  de  Kraganfa 
Duque  de  Braganca 
Dumba-ia-Fumauesso, 
Canda-ia-Mass'ango 
Quimbaxe  -    .     »    ..    , 
Qnimbaxe  .'    .'.'.. 
N'Bondo  N'Gunza    .'     . 
N'Bondo  N'Gunza  ' .     , 
Cnlunga-N'Ganga    .     , 
Cafuchila    .'     .'     .'     .'     , 

Q.uipanzo    

N'Guijo , 

Cu-ango      .'    .'    .     .' 


99,42 

•2.15.57 
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93,35 
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87.60 
81.82 
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21.26.13.00 
01.39.44.00 
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23.02.50.30 
01.29.50.30 

21.44,59.00 


1.19.31.00 
2.11.27.30 
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0.53.54.39 
0.51,18.45 


O.55.I9.20 
0.56.11.15 
0.50.23.00 
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0.57.09. 15 
0.57.47.15 
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59.39 
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61,67 

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32,81 
63,03 

60,66 
49,65 
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291,5 


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09.35.20 

09.35.20 
09.35.20 
09.30.30 


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09.25.30 
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7.27.18  I  17.11.08  I 


July 
August 


September 


ganca 
agane.a 


Deserted  Senzala 
Cu-gho  .... 

Mupanga    .     .     . 

S:,(iLr:.nlie    .      .      . 

Lu-embe  .  .  . 
Lucalla  .  .  . 
Vunda-ia-Ebo  . 
Duque  d 
]  tuque  il 
Daque  d 
Samba  Cang, 
Bondo-ia-(,>uiless,> 
Praca  Velba  .  . 
Ambaca  .  .  . 
EioCatombe3  . 
Pungo  N'Dongo  . 
l'uimo  N'Dongo  . 
Porto  Xunga  4  . 
N'Gola  Quituebe 
Caquili  .... 
Liiiulie  do  Pires  . 


Quibinda     .     . 
Lombe    .     .      . 
Lombe  do  Motta 
Pungo  N'Dongo  , 
Pungo  N'Dongo5 
Pungo  N'Dongo  . 


Cu-i 
Cachongua 
Nbangue  . 
Dondo  a  E.« 


Dondo  .  .  . 
Loanda  arrival 
Loanda  arrival  '■ 


77.59 
78,02 
78,44 
78,87 

5  79.20? 

il20,79S 
79,81 

SO  33 


21.53.28.30 
22.30.0 
1.50.29.00 

2.01.30.30 
•1.50.28.00 
3.27.01.00 
.3.14,25.00 
2.01.42.00 
2.28.07.00 
2.04,50.00 

2.33.29.00 

22.14.10.00 
2.25.58.30 
1.38.50.30 


20.50.04,00 
4.26.02.00 


22.31.15.00 
2.45.50.00 
2.30.41,30 
2.32.01,30 


0.59.47.15 
1.00.09.15 
1.01.39.45 

1.01.17.15 
1.01.47.15 

1.02.09.  15 


1.07.15.10 
1.07.40.00 
1.09.08.48 

1.09.23.36 
1.09.38.24 


1.12  50.31 
1.15.00.10 
1.15.14,00 
1.15.21.00 


j2.p.m. 

£Lp.m. 
_0_a.m 
,0_p.m 
Q_a..m, 

0  a.m 
£l  p.m. 


52,11 
55,65 

52,97 
58,01 
53,34 

51,21 

49,82 
33,43 
03  09 
50,20 
59,12 
56,91 

60,45 


45.20 
20,36 


55,13 
60,70 
60,33 


371,5 
265,7 
359,5 

24  1  9 


78,7 


350,1 
91,4 

350,2 
106,4 
331,8 


96,4 
32  1,6 
319,75 
319,8 


7.12.40 
7. Oil. 10 
0.35.O0 

7.21.19 


8.02.00 

8.10.40 
8.29,09 

8.55.16 

9.12.51 
9.16.14 
9.15.35 
9.30.30 
9.39.52 
9.39.52 
9.50.01 
9.47.55 
9.40.29 
9.44.40 
9.43.16 
9.35.19 
9.28.58 
9.40.30 
9.40.30 
9.40.30 
9.40.35 
9. 10  00 
9,10.21 


I  17. 


15.19.  IS 

15.32.30 

15.42.16 

15.42.16 

15.46.1 

15.57.20 


10.10.30 
10.12.58 
15.42.16 


vement  of  the  chronometer  from  25th  April  to  30th  June,  7,5. 
■or  of  abliu  0,'u03. 


Satellite  of  Jupiter. 


282 


HEIGHTS  ABOVE  THE  SEA-LEVEL 

OF  THE  MOST  IMPOBTANT  POSITIONS, 

CALCULATED  AT  THE  INFANTE  D.  LU1Z  OBSERVATORY. 


The  measurements  are  given  in  metres.     The  boiling-point  and  temperature  are 
expressed  in  degrees  of  the  centigrade  thermometers. 


Places. 


Quillengues      .     . 

Caconda .... 

T'chimbuioca  .     .     . 

Bihe < 

Mongoa 

Cba  N'ganji  .  .  . 
N'Dumba  Mughande 

Catuchi 

T'chiquilla  .... 

Cassanje      •    .     . 

Quesso 

Duque  de  Braganca  .  -> 

N'guna  Vunda  .  . 
Rio  Cugho  .... 
Pungo  N'Dongo  .  . 
Nhangue      .... 

Dondo     

Mossamedes     .     .     . 


Boiling  Points. 
Baudin's  Hypsometers. 


sfo.108. 

N°.  109. 

No.  110 

97,12 

97,14 

97,13 

94,73 

94,75 

94,73 

94,83 

94.86 

94,83 

94,70 

94,78 

94,75 

94:68 

94,70 

94,65 

94,85 

94,88 

94,86 

94,79 

94,84 

91,81 

94,94 

94,97 

94,94 

96,50 

96,54 

96,51 

96,27 

96,30 

96,28 

95,81 

95,86 

95,82 

96,17 

96,23 

96,20 

96,25 

96,31 

96,28 

96,89 

96,91 

96,89 

96,90 

96,95 

96,92 

97,00 

97,03 

97,00 

96,57 

— 

26,55 

96,55 

96,60 

96,54 

96,55 

96,60 

96,55 

98,31 

98,35 

98,12 

98,39 

98,53 

98,39 

96,70 

96,71 

96,74 

97,75 

97,77 

97,80 

99,69 

99,70 

99,72 

99,95 

99,97 

99,97 

97,17 
91,77 
94,88 
94,83 
94,73 
94,93 
94,88 
95.01 
96,55 
96,35 
95,88 
96,26 
96,35 

96,97 
97,07 
96,64 
96,65 
96,62 
98,65 
98,42 
96,80 
97,85 
99,72 
99,97 


3 

Mean. 

ID 
ft 

s 

97,140 

25,0 

94,745 

25,0 

94,850 

24,5 

94,729 

24,0 

94,690 

18,0 

94,880 

20,5 

94,830 

24,0 

94,965 

16,0 

96,525 

26,0 

96,300 

27,5 

95,842 

27,2 

96,215 

29,0 

96,297 

29,0 

96,896 

26,0 

96,935 

24,0 

97,100 

23,0 

96,586 

25,0 

96,585 

25,0 

96,580 

23,0 

98,375 

28,0 

98,430 

3L0 

96,74 

26,0 

97,79 

22,0 

99,707 

24,5 

99,965 

27,0 

■869,1 

1642,5 

1697,3 

1572,7 

1112,3 
1188,7 
1340,1 
1226,2 
1180,3 

.  945,3 

1040,6 

1C60,1 

499,0 

497,5 

1020,5 

691,1 

93,7 
8m 


CORRECTIONS  IN  THE  INFANTE  D.  LUIZ  OBSERVATORY. 


Before  setting  out 
After  arrival 


Hypsometers. 


No.  108.        N°.  109. 


No.  110. 


+  0,34 
+  0,35 


+  0,34 
+  0,31 


+  0,31 
+  0,27 


N".  112. 


0,34 
0,32 


ADDITIONS  TO  THE  FAUNA 


CENTEAL    AND   WEST    AFRICA, 


FAUNA. 

FROM  BEXGUELLA  TO  TUE  BIHE— FROM  THE  BIHE  TO  CASSANGE.' 

MAMMIFERI. 

1.  SOREX,  Sp.   (?) 

Obtained  in  the  proximity  of  the  River  Cu-bango.  Common  name 
Onhunga. 

2.  Heliophobitjs  argenteo-cinereus,  Peters. 

Two  specimens,  one  from  Caconda,  the  other  from  the  Bihe.  The 
natives  of  the  former  call  it  Oneta,  and  those  of  the  latter  Oguim.  It 
lives  under  ground,  where  it  feeds  on  the  roots  of  trees ;  it  is  eaten  by 
the  natives. 

3.  Galago  Moxteiri,  Bartlett;  Proc.  Z.  S.,  London,  1868,  p.  231, 

pi.  28. 

In  the  collection  forwarded  by  our  explorers,  Capello  and  Ivens,  we  find 
a  specimen  of  this  species,  which  was  already  represented  in  the  Museum 
at  Lisbon  by  various  specimens  obtained  from  other  parts  of  the  interior 
of  Angola.  They  do  not  all  exactly  agree  in  colour  with  the  model  exem- 
plar sent  by  Mr.  Monteiro  alive  to  London  in  1863,  and  there  described 
by  Mr.  Bartlett ;  two  Caconda  specimens,  which  we  owe  to  Mr.  Anchieta, 
have  hair  of  the  purest  ash  colour ;  the  others  are  more  yellow  in  tint, 
especially  at  the  extremities  of  the  hair.  The  Caconda  natives  give  to 
this  species  the  name  of  JBobo,  as  we  learn  from  Mr.  Anchieta ;  on  the 
label  of  the  sample  sent  by  Messrs.  Capello  and  Ivens  appeal's  the  native 
name  of  Tchicafo. 

1  Extract  of  the  Jornal  de  Sciencias  Mathematicas,  Physieas  e  Naturaes,  No.  XXVI., 
Lisbon,  1879.  The  zoological  products  here  described  were  classified  by  Dr.  Barbosa 
du  Bocage,  the  illustrious  Director  of  the  Museum  of  Lisbon.  Tbe  first  lot  was  collected 
on  the  way  to  the  Bihe ;  and  the  second  between  the  Bihe  and  Cassange. 


284  West  and  Central  Africa. 

4.  Galago  Senegalensis,  Geoff.  Saint-Hillaire. 

A  male  specimen.     The  native  name  is  Catoto. 

This  and  the  preceding  are  the  only  Lemurideos  we  have  hitherto 
received  from  Angola.  The  other  specimens  in  our  possession  of  G. 
Senegalensis  are  all  from  Caconda,  where  they  bestow  on  it  the  name 
of  Nono. 

5.  Vesperus  minutus,  Temm.  (?) 

A  specimen  in  spirit,  and  in  a  bad  state  of  preservation. 

6.  Kerivoula  argentata,  Tomes;  Proc.  Z.  S.,  London,  1S61,  p.  3:2. 

A  female,  whose  characteristics  appear  to  agree  with  those  which  Mr. 
Tomes  attributes  to  this  species,  saving  in  the  dimensions,  which  are 
smaller  than  those  mentioned  by  that  gentleman.  In  his  excellent 
Catalogue  of  the  Chiroptera  of  the  British  Museum,  Mr.  Dobson  inclines 
to  the  opinion  that  the  K.  argentata  may  be  simply  an  adult  individual 
or  a  local  race  of  larger  size  than  the  K.  lanosa,  living  on  the  S.E.  coast 
of  Africa,  from  the  Zambesi  to  the  Cape.  Its  native  name  in  the  interior 
of  Angola  is  Cafuenfuco. 

7.  Herpestes  melanurus,  Fraser.  (?) 

H.  fulvescente-rufus  nigro  punctulatus,  capite  supra,  dorso  media 
caudaquc  rubiginbsis,  abdomine  et  artuhus  unicoloribus  ochraceo-rufis ; 
cauda  fere  corporis  longitudinem  cequante,  apice  late  nigro.  L.  t. 
530  m.;  corporis  cum  capite  2S0  m.;  cau dee  250  m. 

It  assimilates  in  general  conformation,  and  somewhat  in  the  colours,  to 
the  Cynictis  melanura,  Martin,  represented  in  plate  9  of  the  Zoologia 
typica  of  Fraser,  which  is  now  considered  as  a  true  Herpestes  with  five 
toes  to  the  fore  and  hind  feet;  but  as  we  have  no  authentic  exemplar  of 
this  species  wherewith  to  compare  our  own,  we  cannot  affirm  that  it  is 
identical.  In  the  latter,  the  upper  part  of  the  head,  the  back,  and  tail, 
more  especially  from  the  middle  to  the  extreme  end  (which  is  black),  are 
of  a  bright  red,  which  I  do  not  see  indicated  in  the  descriptions  I  was  able 
to  consult  of  the  H.  melanurus,  and  whereof  the  said  plate  of  Fraser  does 
not  give  the  slightest  idea.  Some  years  ago  Mr.  Anchieta  sent  us  from 
the  river  Ckimba,  in  the  territory  of  Mossamedes,  another  specimen  of 
Herpestes,  and  which  also,  to  our  mind,  approximates  to  the  H.  melanurus 
and  the  present  specimen  ;  but  it  differs  from  both  in  that  the  tail  is 
sensibly  much  longer  than  the  body  (trunk  and  head  together),  and  by 
the  much  greater  extension  of  the  black  colour  at  the  end  of  the  tail ; 
besides  this,  its  colour  is  of  a  much  duller  red,  and  in  this  particular 
agrees  better  with  the  figure  published  by  Fraser  of  the  H.  melanurus. 

8.  Myoxus  (graphiurus)  MUitiNUS,  Desm. 

A  single  specimen,  identical  with  others  already  in  our  possession  from 


Fauna.  285 

Duque  de  Braganea  and  Caconda,  determined  by  Professor  Peters,  of 
Berlin.     V.  Jorn.  Acad.  Sc,  Lisbon,  No.  x.,  1870,;p.  126. 

We  are  informed  by  Messrs.  Capello  and  Ivens  that  this  species  is  found 
in  the  cavities  of  old  trees,  and  is  known  to  the  natives  by  the  name  of 
Cafuenlio. 

BIRDS. 

1.  Scops  capensis,  Smith. 

"  Native   name    Caculo.     Yellow   eyes.     Eats   rats   and   other    small 

animals." 

Accords  perfectly  in  its  characteristics  with  the  specimens  we  have  from 
other  parts  of  Angola.     V.  Orn.  de  Angola,  p.  60. 

2.  PlONlAS    FUSCICOLLIS,  Kulll. 

"  Native  name  T'ckicangue.     Yellow  eyes.     Feeds  on  seeds." 

Of  this  species,  met  with  b}r  Auderson  to  the  north  of  the  Damaras 

territory,  we  have  specimens  obtained  by  Mr.  Anchieta  in  Quillengues 

and  in  the  Humbe. 

3.  Pionias  Meyerii,  Riipp. 

"  Native  name  Cuique." 

Of  the  two  exemplars  we  received,  one  came  marked  as  from  Cassange. 
It  appears  that  this  spot  of  West  Africa  is  the  nearest  to  the  Equator 
where,  up  to  the  present,  this  species  has  been  observed. 

4.  Dendrobates  namaquus,  Licht. 

"  Native  name  Mangula.     Eed  eyes." 

The  specimens  of  this  species,  which  Mr.  Anchieta  has  sent  us  from 
other  parts  of  the  Angola  interior,  bear  on  the  labels  a  native  name  some- 
what differing  from  the  above,  i.e.  Bangula  instead  of  Mangiday  which 
is  indistinctly  applied  to  other  species  of  woodpeckers. 

5.  Merops  hirundinaceus,  Vieill. 

"  Native  name  Mutico.  Eed  eyes.  Lives  near  rivers,  and  feeds  on 
insects  and  other  smaller  animals." 

This  species,  which  Monteiro  encountered  in  Benguella,  was  observed 
in  the  Humbe  by  Mr.  Anchieta. 

6.  Centropus  monachus,  Riipp. 

"Native  name  Mucouco." 

7.  Caprimulgus  Shelleyi,  Bocage. 

"Native  name  Huieumbamha.  Black  eyes.  Feeds  on  insects." 
The  collection  of  Messrs.  Capello  and  Ivens  contains  but  one  specimen 
of  this  interesting  species.  Although  its  state  of  preservation  leaves  much 
to  be  desired,  we  have  not  the  slightest  doubt  concerning  its  identity  with 
the  exemplars  of  Caconda,  which  we  consider  to  be  the  representatives  of 
an  inedited  species.  V.  Jorn.  Acad.  Sc,  Lisbon,  No.  xxiv.,  1878,  p.  266. 


286  West  and  Central  Africa. 

8.  Bradyornys  murinus,  Hartl. 

"Native  name  Cesso.     Black  eves." 

9.  Bradyornis  diabolicus,  Sharpe. 

"  Native  name  Mungange." 

10.  DlCRURUS    DIVARICATUS. 

"Native  name  Mungange.     Light  brown  eyes." 

11.  Fjscus  Capelli,  new.  sp. 

F.  collari  simillimus,  vix  minor,  spatio  ante-oculari  albo.  L.  t. 
220  m.;  alee  92  m.  ;  caudce  118  m.;  rostri  16  m.;  tarsi  25  m. 

Only  two  exemplars  of  this  species  came  over,  one  full-grown  with  the 
tail  incomplete,  being  reduced  to  the  two  intermediate  feathers,"  and  the 
other  complete  without  indication  of  sex  like  the  former  one,  with  young 
plumage.  In  this,  in  lieu  of  the  white  mesh  between  the  base  of  the 
beak  and  the  eye,  on  each  side  of  the  head  there  is  apparent  a  very  distinct 
mesh  of  a  yellowish  grey. 

We  dedicate  this  species  to  one  of  the  intrepid  explorers  to  whom  we 
owe  this  valuable  consignment,  Mr.  Hermenegildo  Capello. 

These  two  specimens  were  obtained  in  Cassange,  and  bear  different 
names,  the  young  one  Quiguecuria,  the  adult  Quimbimbe. 

12.  Prionops  Retzti,  Wahlb. 

Native  name  Ceella.     Eyes  canary  colour." 

13.  Meristes  olivaceuSj  Vieill. 

"  Native  name  Muango.     Yellow  eyes." 

14.  Picnonotus  tricolor,  Hartl. 

*'  Native  name  Tumba-cambungo." 

15.  Crateropus  Hartl aubi,  Bocage. 

"  Native  name  Ceque.     Red  eyes." 

16.  Turdus  strepitans,  Smith.   (?) 

"  Native  name  Quissocola-loa.  Eyes  chestnut.  Feeds  on  insects." 
An  adult  specimen.  Compared  with  other  ensamples  of  the  T.  strepi- 
tans,  from  various  places,  we  noted  the  following  divergencies  : — It  is 
sensibly  smaller ;  the  lower  portion  is  pure  white,  without  the  slightest 
tinge  of  red  or  buff;  the  meshes  which  cover  the  neck,  breast,  and  part  of 
the  abdomen  are  larger  than  those  of  the  T.  strepitans,  more  confluent, 
and  extend  more  to  the  lower  part  of  the  abdomen. 

17.  Turdus  lybonianus,  Smith. 

"  Native  name  Quissomda.     Black  eyes." 


Fauna.  287 

18.  Monticola  brevipes,  Waterh. 

"Native   name    Tchicamha.      Chestnut    e}rcs.     Feeds   on    fruit    and 
insects." 

19.  Myrmecocichla  nigra,  Vieill. 

Two  specimens,  male  and  female ;  the  latter  coffee  colour  and  without 
white  epaulets. 

''Native  name  Munhamba." 

20.  Pholidauoes  Yerreauxi,  Bocage. 

"Native  name  Quice." 


21.  Lamprocolius  acuticaudus,  Bocage. 

"Native  name  Gonve.     Red  eyes.      Feeds  on  fruit." 

22.  Passer  diffusus,  Smith. 

"  Native  name  Mitssuesso." 

23.  Trerox  calva,  Temm. 

"  Native  name  JBnnzo.     Grey  eyes.     Feeds  on  fruit." 

21.  Feancolinus  Schlegeli,  Heugl. 

"Native  name  Cambango.  Eyes  chestnut.  Lives  in  the  woods." 
It  is  the  first  time  we  have  received  this  species,  which  is  at  this  date 
rare  among  European  collections  ;  it  is  also  the  first  instance  of  its  capture 
so  near  the  western  coast.  It  was  hitherto  considered  as  confined  to  a 
rather  restricted  region  of  Central  Africa,  where  it  was  discovered  by  the 
celebrated  naturalist  Von  Heuglin.  The  first  description  of  it  was  pub- 
lished by  that  gentleman  in  1863  in  the  Jo'rnal  de  Cabanis.  (V.  Jornal 
f.  Ornith.,  1863,  p.  275;  and  Heugl.,  Orn.  JST.  0.  Afr.,  p.  898, 
plate  xxx.) 

25.  Ardea  rufiventris,  Sundev. 

"  Native  name  JBovda.  Iris  with  two  concentric  circles,  one  internal 
yellow,  another  external  red.     It  lives  on  rivers,  and  feeds  on  fish." 

26.  Ardeola  mikuta. 

"  Native  name  Cassoucua.     Iris  canary  colour." 

27.  EOBIYANELLUS    LATERALIS,  Smith. 

"Native  name  Metro.  Iris  light  yellow,  eyelids  canary  colour,  the 
membrane  in  front  of  the  eyes,  upper  third  red  and  the  rest  yellow. 
Found  in  marshy  places,  where  it  feeds  on  the  animals  proper  to  such 
soil." 


288  West  and  Central  Africa. 

REPTILES  AND  AMPHIBIOUS  CREATURES. 

1.  Chameleo  dilepis,  Hall. 

A  sample  from  Caconda,  where  it  is  common. 

2.  Agama  aumata,  Peters. 

Two  specimens  also  from  Caconda. 

3.  Agama  pianioeps,  Peters. 

An  exemplar  from  the  vicinity  of  the  river  Calae. 

4.  Eumeces  RETicuLATUS,  Peters. 

A  specimen  without  indication  of  origin. 

5.  Euprepes  BitfOTATus,  Boca^e. 

An  exemplar  of  large  dimensions  from  Caconda. 

6.  Boedon  quadrilineatum,  Dum.  and  Ribr. 

Caught  in  the  Bihe. 

7.  Naja  Anchiet^:,  nov.  sp> 

?  Naja  haje,  L.  v  viridis,  Poters,  Monatsh.  1c.  Ahad.,  Berlin,  Mai, 
1873,  p.  411,  tab.  i.  fig.  1. 

Tete  courte  ;  rostrale  triangulaire  fortement  rabattue  sur  le  devant  du 
museau  et  separant  presque  entierement  les  naso-frontales ;  un  cercle 
complet  autour  de  l'ceil  forme  par  une  sus-orbitaire,  une  pre-orbitaire, 
deux  post-orbitaires  et  trois  ou  quatre  sous-orbitaires  ;  sept  labiales  supe- 
rieures,  dont  la  troisieme  s'articule  par  son  bord  superieur  a  la  pre- 
orbitaire  ;  !temporales  1  +  2.  Dix-sept  rangees  d'ecailles  lisses  sur  le 
milieu  du  tronc.  Plaques  abdominales  cent  quatre-vingt-onze ;  anale 
simple  ;  cinquante-quatre  paires  de  souscaudales. 

Dimensions. — Longueur  totale  80  centimetres  ;  queue  14  centimetres. 

Coloration. — En  dessus  d'une  teinte  brun-olivatre,  plus  foncee  sur  les 
bords  des  ecailles  ;  en  dessous  jaunatre,  varie  de  taches  brunes.  Un  large 
collier  noir  ou  brun-fonce  sur  le  cou  a  une  petite  distance  de  la  tete. 

M.  Anchieta  nous  envoya  de  Caconda,  il  y  a  quelque  temps,  deux 
individus  de  cette  curieuse  espece,  qui  nous  semble  bien  distincte  de  la 
Naja  haje  d'apres  Tecaillure  de  la  tete.  Les  indigenes  de  Caconda 
l'appellent  Turulangila. 

8.  Echidna  auietans,  Merr. 

Two  specimens,  one  from  the  River  Calae,  the  other  caught  on  an 
island  of  the  River  Cabindango.     The  natives  call  it  Buta. 

9.  Monitor  saurus,  Laurenti. 

"Native  name  Sanqo,  River  Lu-ando." 


Fauna.  289 

10.  Stellio  atricollis,  Smith. 

"  Native  name  T'chico.     Lives  in  the  trees.     Feeds  on  insects." 


11.  Euprepes  iVENSi.  new  sp. 

Corps  a  forme  cyclotetragone,  allonge  ;  membres  relativement  courts  ; 
queue  tres  longue.  Tete  petite,  a  museau  court  et  conique.  Nasales  en 
contact,  triangulaires,  la  narine  s'ouvrant  presde  Tangle  superieur;  supero- 
nasales  etroites,  egalement  en  contact  et  s'articulant  par  Textremite 
opposee  a  une  freno-nasale,  qui  vient  s'appuyer  sur  la  premiere  labiale  ; 
deux  fre'nales,  Tanterieure  carree,  la  posterieure  pentagonale  et  plus 
grande  ;  internasale  triangulaire  a,  bord  anterieur  arrondi,  en  contact  par 
ses  bords  posterieurs  avec  les  freno-nasales  ;  celles-ci  de  forme  pentagonale 
et  s'articulant  a  la  frontale,  qui  est  de  forme  hexagonale  et  bien  deve- 
loppee;  deux  fronto-parietales  distinctes,  a  peu  pres  de  la  forme  et  de  la 
grandeur  des  fronto-nasales  ;  inter-parietale  en  forme  de  fer  de  lance, 
separant  completement  les  deux  parietales.  Eostrale  emboitant  l'ex- 
tremite du  museau  et  presentant  en  dessus  deux  bords  concaves  qui  re- 
coivent  les  nasales  ;  sept  eabiales  superieures,  les  quatre  premieres  quad- 
rangulaires,  la  cinquieme  situee  au  dessous  de  l'ceil,  plus  haute  et  plus 
allongee  que  les  precedentes  et  superposee  a.  la  quatrieme  par  un  court 
prolongement  de  son  bord  anterieur,  les  sixieme  et  septieme  de  forme  plus 
irreguliere.  Ouverture  auriculaire  garnie  a  son  bord  anterieur  de  trois 
lobules  pointus.  Paupiere  inferieure  ecailleuse,  presentant  au  centre  un 
peUt  disque  transparent.  Scutelles  digitales  carenees,  les  ecailles  des 
paumes  et  des  plantes  des  pieds  legerement  tuberculeuses.  Trente-deux 
rangs  d'ecailles  sur  le  tronc  ;  celles  du  dos  a  trois  carenes  ties  distinctes 
et  rapprochees,  celles  des  flancs  lisses. 

Dimensions. — Le  plus  grand  de  nos  individus  porte  une  queue  de 
nouvelle  formation  assez  court ;  deux  autres  plus  jeunes  I'ont,  au  coutraire, 
as«ez  longue.     Voici  les  dimensions  d'un  de  ces  individus  : 

Longueur  totale  290  millim. ;  queue  200  m. ;  tete  15  m. ;  memb.  ant. 
21  m. ;  memb.  post.  30  m. 

Coloration. — En  dessus  et  sur  les  cotes  d'un  noir-olivatre,  marque  de 
cinq  raies  longitudinales  jaunes;  l'une  plus  large,  occupant  le  milieu  du 
dos,  de  la  nuque  a  la  base  de  la  queue,  et  deux  de  chaque  cote,  dont  la 
superieure  suit  la  ligne  qui  separe  le  dos  des  flancs,  et  l'inferieure  s'etend 
de  l'ouverture  auriculaire  au  tiers  posterieur  de  la  queue.  En  dessous 
d'un  bleu  clair  uniforme. 

Habitat. — Nos  trois  individus  nous  ont  ete  envoj'es  du  Bie,  dans 
l'interieur  de  Benguella  par  MM.  Capello  et  Ivens  pendant  le  cours  de 
leur  voyage  d'exploration  du  Cu-ango.  D'apres  nos  hardis  voyageurs, 
l'espece  y  est  connue  sous  le  nom  de  Muntambanclonga. 

12.  Efprepes  Bayonii,  Bocage. 

"  District  of  Cassange." 
VOL.    IT.  U 


2  90  West  and  Central  Africa. 

13.  Onychocephalus  Angolensis,  Bocage. 

';  Native  name  Chico-chico.  District  of  Cassange.  Lives  on  the 
ground." 

14.  Limnophis  bicolor,  Giinther. 

"Native  name  Muzitzo.     River  Lu-ando." 

15.  Leftodira  hufescenS;  Giinther. 

"Native  name  Quintadaglla.     District  of  Cassange." 

1G.  Riiagerrhis  trit^ntatus,  Giinther. 

"Native  name  Calombolo.     Said  to  be  venomous." 

17.  PfllLOTHAMNUS    HETEROLEPIDOTA,  Giinther. 

'■  Native  name  Caliuriberemhe" 

18.  Bucephalus  typus,   Smith.     Var.   D.   Smith,  II.  S.  Af.  Zool., 

Reptiles,  tab.  xi. 

*•  Native  name  Quilengo-Iengo.     Held  to  be  venomous." 

19.  Causus  rhombeatus,  Dam.  and  Ribr. 

"  Native  name  Quibolo-bolo.     Venomous." 

« 

20.  Dactylethra  Mulljeri,  Peters. 

"Native  name  T'chiwla? 

21.  Dactylethra  Mulleri,  Peters. 

A  specimen  of  the  Dombe.     Native  name  Chimhoto. 

22.  Rana  ornatissima,  Bc-cage,  new  sp. 

De  la  grandeur  a  peu-pres  de  notre  R.  temporaria  d'Europe.  Tele 
aussi  longue  que  large,  a  museau  legerement  prominent;  langue  large, 
echancree  en  arriere ;  deux  groups  de  dents  vomcriennes  situcs  a  Tangle 
interne  des  ouvertures  posterieures  des  narines  et  separes  par  un  inter- 
valle ;  narines  a  c^rale  distance  de  l'extremite  du  museau  et  de  l'ceil ; 
tyinpan  distinct,  inferieur  en  diametre  a  l'ouverture  oculaire  ;  pas  de 
parotides  ni  de  plis  glanduleux  sur  le  dos;  peau  finement  granuleuse  en 
dessus  et  en  dessous  ;  membres  posterieurs  et  orteils  moderement  longs, 
ceux-ci  reunis  a  la  base  par  une  petite  palmure  ;  le  quatrieme  orteil 
beaucoup  plus  long  que  le  troisieme  et  le  cinquiome,  qui  sont  egaux  ;  un 
tubercule  saillant  et  aplati  au  bord  interne  du  metatarse. 

Dimensions. — Longueur  de  la  tete  23  millim.  ;  du  tronc  45  m.  ;  du 
rnemb.  ant.  33  m. ;  du  memb.  post.  98  m. 

Coloration. — II  est  difficile  de  bien  fa  ire  saisir,  autrement  que  par  une 


Fauna.  291 

figure,  le  systeme  de  coloration,  assez  complique,  de  cette  belle  espece. 
Sur  la  tete,  le  dos,  la  partie  moyenne  des  flancs  et  la  face  superieure  des 
jambes  regno  une  teinte  d'un  vert-clair  que  le  sejour  dans  l'alcool  tend  a 
changer  en  gris  de  plomb  ;  les  flancs,  une  partie  de  la  face  latcrale  de  la 
tete  et  le  bord  externe  des  extremites  sont  d'un  rose-lilas  ;  les  regions 
inferieures  sont  d'un  jaune-verdatre,  qui  prend  sur  l'anus,  la  face  pos- 
terieure  des  cuisses  et  la  face  interne  des  jambes  un  ton  plus  vif  et  ocrace. 
Des  taches  nombreuses,  varices  et  symetriques,  d'un  noir  profond  se 
montrent  sur  le  dos  et  les  flancs,  a  la  face  dorsale  des  membres  et  sur  la 
gorge  ;  telles  sont  :  une  large  bande  partant  de  Pextremite  du  museau, 
traversant  l'ceil  et  terminant  sur  Tangle  de  la  machoire  apres  avoir  con- 
tourne  le  tympan,  qui  est  aussi  noir:  deux  taches  allongees  formant 
chevron  sur  le  milieu  du  dos  derriere  la  tete,  suivies  plus  en  arriered'une 
autre  paire  de  taches  allonguees ;  des  taches  variees  sur  les  flancs;  des 
taches  et  des  bandes  transversales  sur  les  membres  ;  enfin  sur  la  gorge  une 
tache  allongee,  au  centre,  et  deux  de  chaque  cote  forment  un  dessin  tres 
caracteristique.     Les  paumes  et  les  plantes  des  pieds  noiratres. 

Habitat. — L'individu  unique  que  nous  possedons  de  cette  espece  a  ete 
recueilli  au  Hie  par  MM.  Capello  et  Ivens. 

23.  Pheyxobatrachus  Natalexsis,  Smith. 

Two  specimens  from  the  Bihe. 

24.  Hypeuolius  cithinus,  Giinther. 

From  the  Bihe. 

25.  Hypeuolius  Huillexsis,,  Boeage. 

From  the  Bihe. 

26.  Bufo  Glixeexsis;  Schleg*.  (?) 

A  new  specimen  from  the  Bihe. 


FISH.2 

Fam.  LABYRINTH ICI— Genus  Ctenopoma,  Peters. 

1.  Ctexopoma  iiuLTispixis,  Peters  ;  Gthr.,  Cat.  Fishes  Brit.  Mus., 
vol.  hi.  p.  373;  Peters,  Mossamb.  Flnssjische,  p.  16;  Gthr., 
Ann.  E.  Mag.  Nat.  Ilisf.,  vol.  xx.  p.  110. 

Two   specimens  :    a.    Total   length  100  milliin.  ;    /;.  Total  length  78 
millim. 

2  Extract  of  the  J  or  not  de  Sclencins  Mathematical,  Physicas  e  Naturaes,lso.  xxx,, 
Lisbon,  1881.  They  were  classified  in  the  Museum  of  Lisbon  by  Sr.  Autonio  Roberto 
Pereira  Guimaraes,  Assistant  Naturalist. 

u  2 


292  West  and  Central  Africa. 


Fam.  CHROMID.E— Genus  Chromis,  Cuv. 

2.  Cromis  Mossambicus,  Peters  ;    Gthr.,   Cat.  Fishes  Brit.   Mus., 

vol.  iv.  p.  268. 

Two  specimens  :  a.  Total  length  80  millim  ;  b.  Total  length  88  milliin. 

3.  Chromis  Sparrmanni,   Smith;    Gthr.,   Cat.   Fishes  Brit.  Mus., 

vol.  iv.  p.  269. 

Complete  accordance  with  the  description  of  Dr.  Giinther,  saving  in 
the  number  of  dorsal  fins,  which  in  this  specimen  is  15  instead  of  13  or 
14. 

One  specimen,  total  length  88  millim. 

Genus  Hemichromis,  Peters. 

4.  Hemicromis  robtjstus,  Gthr. ;  Proc.  Z.  S.s  London,  1S64,  p.  312. 

One  specimen,  total  length  82  millim. 

5.  Hemicromis  Angolensis,  Steind.,  Mem.  Ac.  Sc.}  Lisbon,  1865. 

One  specimen,  total  length  90  millim. 

Habitat. — River'Cu-anza.     Common  name,  Moaca. 

Fam.  SILURID^— Genus  Clarias,  Gronov. 

6.  Claria  angujllaiiis,  Linn. ;   Gthr.,,  Cat.  Fishes  Brit.  Mus.,  vol. 

v.  p.  14. 

Two  specimens  :  a.  Total  length  20  cent. ;  b.  Total  length  12'5  cent. 
Habitat. — River  Cuito.     Common  name  llbande. 


Fam.  MOmiYHID2E-3formyrus,  Gthr. 

7.  Mormyrus  Lhuysi,  Steind. ;   Steindachner,  SB.  Ah.  Wien,  1870, 
lxi.  p.  553,  tab.  2,  fig.  3,  Senegal. 

The  only  specimen  we  have  before  us  greatly  resembles  the  Mormyrus 
Lhuysi,  Steind.,  not  only  in  the  general  shape  of  the  body  and  its  relative 
dimensions,  but  likewise  in  the  system  of  colouring;  it  differs,  however, 
in  the  number  of  fins  and  scales. 

Thus,  Dr.  Steindachner,  in  a  Senegal  specimen,  found  the  following 
numbers  : — 

P— 14,  D— 20,  A— 28,  L.  lat.  48  ; 
whilst  the  formula  of  the  specimen  deposited  in  the  Lisbon  Museum  is — 
P— 10,  D— 25,  A— 33,  L.  lat.  53. 
One  specimen,  total  length  85  millim. 
Habitat. — River  Lu-ando.     Common  name  Dembe. 


Fa 


una.  293 


Fam.  CYPEIND.E— Genus  Barbus,  Gthr. 

8.  Barbus  Kessleri,  Steind. ;  Gthrv  Cat.  Fishes  Brit.  3Ius.,  vol. 
vii.  p.  107. 

One  specimen,  total  length  to  root  of  tail  97  millim. 

We  have  still  remaining  four  specimens  to  describe,  one  of  the  genus  Cteno- 
poma,  and  three  of  the  genus  Barbus,  but  the  elements  of  comparison  for  their 
sf.udy  are  wanting. 


INSECTS.3 

HYHENOPTERA. 
A.VTDM. 


1.  Apis  Adansonii,  Latr. 


Apis  Adansonii,  Latr.,  Ann.  du  Mus.  d'Hist.  Nat.,  v.  p.  172,  No. 
Apis  scutellata,  Lep.,  Hist.  Nat.  d.  Hym.,  1.  p.  404 
Apis  mellifica,  var.  Gerst.,  Inseht.  v.  Mossamb.,  p.  439. 


%.  Anthophora  flavicollis,  Gerst. 

Anthophora  flavicollis,  Gerst.,  Insekt.  v.  Mossamb.,  p.  445,  pi.  xxix, 
fig.  5. 

a.   $  long.  corp.  15  millim. 

3.  Anthophora  atrocincta,  Lep. 

Anthophora  atrocincta,  Lep.,  Hist.  Nat.  d.  Hym.,  11.  p.  35. 
a. 

4.  Xylocopa  nigrita,  Fab. 

Xylocopa  nigrita,  Lep.,  Hist.  Nat.  d.  Hym.,  11.  p.  179;   (  $  )  Gerst., 
Reis.  in  Ost-Afr.,  p.  314. 
a.-? 

5.  Xylocopa  combusta,  Smith. 

Xylocopa  combusta,  Smith,  Nat.  Hym.  Ins.,  p.  350. 
a. 

G.  Xylocopa  inconstans,  Smith. 

We  refer  to  this  species  a  specimen  collected  by  Messrs.  Capello  and 
Ivens,  because,  besides  not  knowing  the  distinction,  we  compared  it  with 

3  We  are  indebted  for  the  study  we  present  upon  insects  to  Sr.  Alberto  Guard' 
Assistant  Naturalist  at  the  Lisbon  Museum. 


294  West  and  Central  Africa. 

another,  sent  to  the  Lisbon  Museum  \>y  Mr.  Anchieta,  and  classified  under 
this  name,  and  observed   that  it  differed   solely  in  having  yellow  bristles 
on  the  back  part  and  sides  of  the  thorax,  as  also  in  the  first  abdominal 
segment ;    whilst  in  Mr.  Anchieta's  specimen  those  bristles  are  white, 
a. —  $   long.  corp.  33  millim. 

7.  Xylocopa  calens,  Lep. 

Xyloco'pa  calens,  Lep.,  Hist.  Nat.  d.  Hym.,  n.  p.  196,  $  . 


vesfid^:. 

8.  ElJMENES    TINCTOE,  Christ. 

JEumenes  Savignyi,  Guerin,  Icon.  Reg.  Anim.  Ins.,  pi.  72,  fig.  4. 

Humenes  tinctor,  Gerst.,  Reis.  in  OsUAfr.,  p.  321. 

a. 

9.  Belonogastee,  sp.  (?) 

a. 

CBABRONID^;. 

10.  HexAiipepsis  vindex,  Smith. 

Mignimia  vindex,  Smith,  Cat.  Hym.  Ins.,  in.  p.  186  (•£  )• 
Hemipepsis  vindex,  Gerst.,  Reis.  in.  Ost-Afr.,  p.  327. 
a.—  $  long,  corps.  37  millim. 

11.  Peiocnemis,  sp.  (?) 

a.-? 

12.  Ammophila  eeeeugeneipes,  Lep. 

Ammophila  ferrugineipes,  Lep.,  Hist.  Wat.  d.  Hym.,  in.  p.  383  ( $  ). 
a.($) 

13.  SCOLTA    CYANEA,  Lep. 

Scolia  cyanea,  Lep.,  Hist.  Nat.  d.   Hym.,  in.  p.  525  (cf);  Gerst., 
Insekt.  v.  Mossamb.,  p.  494. 

a.-? 

FORMICID^E. 

14.  Paltothyeeus  pestilentia,  Smith. 

a. 

15.  PONEEA,  Sp.   (?) 

a. 

16.  Foemica  maculata,  Fabr. 

Formica  maculata1  Lep.,  Hint.  Nat.  d.  Hym.,  I.  p.  2,15  ;  Gerst.,  Insekt. 
v.  Mossamb.,  p.  509. 
a.  ........ 


Fauna.  295 


CHEYSIDID.ffi. 

17.  Stilbum  splendidum,  Fab. 

Slilbum  splendidum,  Lcp.,  Hist.  Nat.   d.  llym.,  iv.  p.   15  ;  Gerst., 
Insekt.  v.  Mbssamb.,  p.  519. 
a. —  5  .     Long,  corp.  11  millim. 

DIPTEEA. 

TABAXIDJ3. 

1.    TABANUS    EXCLAMAT10N1S,  new  sp. 

Approximates  closely  to  the  Tabanus  longitudinal-is,  Lew.  [Insekt.  v. 
Mbssamb.,  p.  2).  Head  white,  eyes  bronzed,  with  very  small  facets, 
interval  between  them  wide,  with  two  red  callosities  arranged  en  face, 
furnished  with  white  hairs  beneath,  trunk  of  dark  grey,  feelers  white, 
antennae  pink,  first  and  second  article  furnished  with  white  hairs,  and 
elongating  upwards  to  a  black  point  (the  third  is  wanting  in  all  the  speci- 
mens) ;  thorax  pinky  above,  being  four  black  stripes  close  together,  which 
almost  conceal  the  blue  colour  below;  abdomen  conical,  beginning  to 
narrow  in  the  third  segment,  as  long  as  the  head  and  thorax  together, 
yellow,  without  hair,  having  a  brown  dorsal  line,  occupying  one-third  of 
the  breadth,  having  in  the  middle  and  at  each  segment  a  white  triangular 
mark,  with  an  angle  turned  to  the  base,  furnished  with  black  in  the  second 
segment,  and  not  in  the  first  and  last,  and  (the  abdomen)  having  also  a 
narrow  lateral  stripe  of  the  same  colour  as  the  dorsal,  beginning  at  the 
second  or  third  segment.  It  must  be  noted  that  as  regards  the  colour 
of  the  ground,  it  is  lighter  towards  the  extremity  of  the  abdomen,  which 
the  stripes  darken,  so  that  the  last  segment  is  almost  black  ;  belly  yellow, 
with  the  lateral  margins  whitened,  middle  of  the  last  two  segments  black; 
thighs  grey,  with  some  white  hairs,  abundant  at  the  base;  tibia  red; 
tarsus  black  above,  red  below  ;  wings  transparent ;  costal  frame  black,  the 
others  chestnut. 

Long.  corp.  16  to  17  millim.    Exp.  al.  34  millim. 

a.— c.  $ 

We  imagined  at  first  that  our  specimens  referred  to  the  T.  longitudi- 
nalis,  Loew;  but  on  attentively  reading  the  description,  it  appears  to  us, 
if  we  understand  it  properly,  that  the  drawing  of  the  thorax  and  abdomen 
is  completely  different,  as  well  as  the  general  colour,  which  we  collider 
sufficient  to  separate  the  two  species. 

The  Lepidoptera  are  represented  by  some  "  foureaure  "  of  Leyortas,  of 
the  Psychidce  family.  They  are  formed  by  a  collection  of  dry  and  thin 
branches,  disposed  longitudinally,  and  which  cover  and  protect  a  s-ilk 
cocoon  wherein  the  worm  is  found.  3Ionteiro,  in  his  work  upon  Angola, 
gives  an  exact  representation  of  these  cocoons.  (V.  Angola  and  the 
River  Congo,  by  J.  J.  Monteiro,  London,  1875,  vol.  II.  p.  295.  pi.  xvi.). 


296  West  and  Central  Africa. 


NEUROPTERA. 


MYEME  LEONIDS. 


1.  Palp  ares  caefer  (?);  Burm. 

One  sole  exemplar  spoiled. 


ORTHOPTERA. 

Dr.  Ignacio  Bolivar  published,  a  short  time  ago,  a  remarkable  study 
upon  the  Orthoptera  of  Angola  existing  in  the  Lisbon  Museum,  and  at 
the  same  time  studied  the  specimens  of  Messrs.  Capello  and  Ivens. 

It  is  this  study  which  we  transcribe  here,  and  to  which,  as  will  be  seen, 
we  contribute  no  part.4 

1.  Camoensia  insights,  Bolivar. ,  new  sp. 

Jorn.  So.  Math.  Phys.  Wat.,  No.  xxx.,  p.  3,  No.  18. 
Cu-ango  (Capello  and  Ivens). 

2.  ACRIDIUM   TARTARICUM,  Lin. 

Acridium  tartaricum,  Bolivar,  loc.  cit.,  p.  112,  No.  22. 

HEMIPTERA. 

HETEEOPTEBA. 

1.  Sph^rocoris  p^ecilus,  Dallas. 

Sjj/icerocoris  pacilus,  Dallas,  List  of  Semi  p.  Insect,  in  the  Coll.  of 
tlie  Brit.  Mus.,  1.  p.  9. 
a.  b. 

2.  Ccenomorpha  nervosa,  Dallas. 

Coenomorpha  nervosa,  Dallas,  loc.  cit.,  I.  p.  192. 
a.  d. 

3.  Phillocephala  plicata,  Reich  e  et  Fairm. 

Phillocephala  plicata,  Reiche  et  Fairm.,  Toy.  en  Abyss.,  ill.  p.  447  ; 
At.  Zool.,  pi.  29,  fig.  2. 
a.-? 

4.  Petascelis,  sp.  (?) 

4  See  Jorn  a  I  das  Scicneias  Mathematicas,  Physicas  e  Naluraes,  No.  xxx.  p.  107. 


Fauna.  297 

5.  Mictis  heteropus,  Latr. 

Midi's  heteropus,  Schaum.,  Insekt.  v.  Mossamb.,  p.  41. 

a—  S 
b.-$ 

6.  Platimeris  cuttatipennis,  Stal. 

Platimeris  guttatipennis,  Stal.,  Ofvers.  VelensJc  Akad.  Fiirrhanell, 
xvi.  p.  188. 
a. 

7.  ACANTASPIS,  Sp.   (?) 

a. 

8.  Appasus,  sp.  (?) 

a. 

9.  Laccotrephes  grossus,  Fab. 

Nepa  grossa,  Ainyot.  et  Serv.,  Hist.  Nat.  d.  Hem.,  p.  440. 
a. 

10.  Laccotrephes  brachialis,  Gerst. 

Laccotrephes  brachialis,  Gerst.,  Reis.  in  Ost-Afr.,  p.  422. 
a. — c. 

11.  Belostoma  Algeriense,  Duf. 

JBelostoma  Algeriense,  Duf.,  Mem.  Soc.  Roy.  d.  Sc.  de  Liege,  v.  p.  186, 
pi.  1. 

Hydrocyrius  herculeus,  Gerst.,  JReis.  in  Ost-Afi'.,  p.  423. 
a. — c.  Long,  total.  65  millim.     Larg.  27  rnillim. 

HOMOPTEEA. 

1.  Platypleura  Capensis,  Lin. 

Platypleura  Capensis,  Amyot.  et  Serv.,  Hist.  Nat.  d.  Hem.,  p.  466, 
No.  2;  "Walker,  List  of  Homopt.  Ins.  Brit.  Mus.,  i.  p.  3. 
a.—  <$ 
b.-? 

2.  Platypleura,  sp.  (?) 

a.— c.  # 

a.-? 


299 


FLORA. 

Messrs.  Capello  andIvens  collected  on  their  journey  a  certain  number 
of  plants,  which,  having  been  forwarded  to  the  botanical  section  of  the 
National  Museum,  were  incorporated  in  the  herbaria.  The  whole  of 
these  plants,  saving  a  small  number  gathered  in  the  low  lands  of  the 
Dombe,  were  taken  from  the  elevated  region  of  the  high  table-land  of 
South  Africa,  from  Caconda,  the  Bihe,  and  the  country  lying  between 
those  two  points. 

Dr.  Welwitsch  had  already  penetrated  into  that  region,  and  explored 
a  part  of  the  high  ground  of  the  Huilla,  and  from  his  mature  inves- 
tigation, made  from  an  exclusively  botanical  point  of  view,  resulted  a 
magnificent  collection  of  specimens,  which  are  at  the  present  date  for 
the  most  part  studied  and  determined.  The  two  recent  explorers  could 
not  devote  their  entire  attention  to  botany  ;  occupied  as  they  were 
with  many  and  important  matters,  it  was  only  incidentally  that  they 
gathered  a  few  plants.  Nevertheless  the  collection  they  formed  is  very 
interesting.  Penetrating  into  the  lofty  central  region,  more  to  the 
north  and  much  more  deeply  than  Welwitsch  had  done,  they  had  an 
opportunity  of  visiting  lands  whose  flora  was  till  then  absolutely  un- 
known. 

If  to  this  collection  we  unite  the  important  parcels  sent  over  from 
Caconda  by  Mr.  Anchieta  (who,  already  known  as  an  admirable  zoo- 
logical collector,  has  proved  himself  to  be  a  no  less  zealous  and  in- 
telligent collector  of  botanical  specimens),  and  a  i'ew  exemplars 
furnished  by  Major  Serpa  Pinto  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Nindu,  we 
must  admit  that  the  recent  journeys  made  by  the  Portuguese,  important 
as  they  are  from  other  points  of  view,  have  furnished  a  valuable  con- 
tingent towards  a  knowledge  of  African  vegetation. 

The  whole  of  these  plants  will  be  successively  studied  and  described 
in  special  reports,  I  having  had  great  assistance  in  the  work  from  Mr. 
\V.  P.  Hiern,  a  botanist  of  repute  and  particularly  well  versed  in  the 
tropical  African  flora. 

A  definitive  examination  of  these  plants  has  necessarily  been  de- 
layed, as  it  was  necessary  to  com  pare  them  with  the  specimens  preserved 
in  various  museums  of  Europe,  and  I  can  therefore  only  furnish  here  a 
few  notes,  the  result   of  a  first  survey  made  by  Mr.  IJiern  and  myself, 


300  West  and  Central  Africa. 

and  which  are  of  a  nature  to  give  a  merely  cursory  idea  of  the  impor- 
tance of  the  collection  made  by  Messrs.  Capello  and  Ivens. 

That  collection  contains  approximately  140  different  species,  re- 
presented mostly  by  examples  susceptible  of  rigorous  determination, 
and  which,  apart  from  certain  corrections  that  a  more  careful  examina- 
tion will  entail,  may  be  distributed  by  their  natural  families  in  the 
following  manner  : — 

Banunculace.e — A  few  species  of  the  genus  Clematio,  one  of  which  is 
probably  new. 

Menispermace^e — A  species  of  the  genus  Stephania. 

NymphjeacEjE — A  species  of  the  Nymphcea  genus,  obtained  from  the 
Cubanzo. 

Capparidace^e — A  species  of  Cleome. 

Polygale^e — A  species  of  the  genus  Polygala  and  one  of  the 
Securidcea. 

Malvaceae — Species  of  the  Sulci  and  Hibiscus.  The  large  malvaceae, 
as  for  instance  the  imbondeiro,  do  not  exist  at  great  altitudes.  From 
Quilengues  upwards  it  is  very  rare,  and  at  3200  feet  it  disappears  com- 
pletely, according  to  a  note  of  the  explorers. 

Filiace^e — A  species  of  Triumfetta. 

Malpighiace^e — A  species  of  Sphedamnocarpus. 

Ochnace^e — A  species  of  Oclina,  probably  undescribed. 

Meliace^e — A  species  of  Ekebergia. 

AMPELiDEiE — Species  of  Vitis.  One  of  them,  met  with  pretty  fre- 
quently, and  to  which  the  natives  give  the  name  of  Quinjuanjiia, 
produces  an  edible  fruit,  and  is  used  in  the  preparation  of  a  fermented 
liquor. 

Anacardiace^e — A  species  of  Rhus. 

Legttminos.e — Species  of  the  genus  Crotalaria,  Indigo/era,  Tephrosia, 
Sesbania,  Herminiera,  JEschynomene,  Erythrina,  Eriosema,  Sivartzia, 
Cassia,  Banhinia,  Brachystegia,  and  Acasia.  The  species  of  Brachy- 
stegia  come  from  the  Dombe,  where  they  form  the  staple  of  the  forests 
traversed  by  the  explorers.  The  Herminiera  was  gathered  in  the  same 
region,  and  no  doubt  on  the  bank  of  some  river. 

Rosacea — A  species  of  Parinarium. 

Melastomace,e — Species  of  the  Dissotis  and  Antherotoma. 

Samyde^e — A  species  probably  belonging  to  the  Homalueno  genus. 

Passiflore^e — A  species  of  Paropsia,  probably  new. 

Cucurbitaceje — A  species  probably  appertaining  to  the  genus 
Zehneria — a  very  imperfect  specimen. 

UmbelliferyE — Incomplete  specimens,  apparently  belonging  to  the 
JFceniculum  and  Caruno. 


Floi'a.  301 

Rubiace.e — Species  of  the  geuuses,  Mussaenda,  Oxyantlius,  Tricalysia, 
Vtmgneria,  Fadogia,  Ancylanthos,  Grumilea,  and  Spermacoce;  some  of 
these  species  being  very  interesting,  and  undoubtedly  new. 

Com rosiT^r.  —  Species  of  the  gennses  Vernonia,  Conyza,  Helichrysum, 
Aspilia,  Coreopsio,  Bidens,  Emilia,  Berkheya,  Peiotaris,  and  Dicoma, 
some  of  which  are  nndescribed. 

Ebenace^e — A  species  ofDiospyros,  and  one  of  Euclea. 

Asclepiade.e —  Species  of  the  genus  Asclepias. 

Gentiane.e — A  species  of  the  genus  Chironia. 

SoLANACEiE — A  species  of  Datura. 

Scrophularine.e — Species  which  seem  to  belong  to  the  gennses 
Striga  and  Sopubia. 

Pedaltne^e — A  species  of  Sesamothamnus. 

AcanthaC'E/E — Species  of  Barleria. 

YerbenaceyE — Species  of  the  Lantana,  Vitea,  and  Clerodendron. 

Labiut^e  —A  species  of  Tinnea. 

PolygonaceyE — A  species  of  Polygonum. 

Proteace/E — Imperfect  specimens,  apparently  belonging  to  this 
family. 

Thym.eleaceyE — Species  of  Guidia  and  Lasiosiphon  ;  probably  new. 

EuphorbiaceyE — Species  of  Bridelia,  Phyllanthera,  Manihot, 
Acalypha,  and  Ricinus. 

Orchideve — A  species  probably  of  the  genus  Habenaria. 

Iride^e — Species  of  Gladiolus  and  Moraia,  some  of  which  are  pro- 
bably new. 

Smilace.e — A  species  of  Smilase. 

Liliacejs —  Species  of  Asparagus  and  Bulbine. 

CyperaceyE  — Species  of  Cyperus. 

Gramine^e — Species,  among  others,  of  the  genuses  Panicum,  Andro- 
pagon,  and  Elensine. 

Filices — Species  in  small  number,  about  four. 

This  list,  the  result  of  a  first  and  very  rapid  review,  is  subject  to 
various  corrections  and  alterations;  it  will  suffice,  however,  to  give  an  idea 
of  the  value  and  interest  of  the  collection.  In  a  subsequent  and  closer 
description  we  shall  avail  ourselves  of  the  notes  upon  the  common 
names  and  uses  of  some  of  those  plants  which  accompanied  the  speci- 
mens, and  that  will  be  found  of  considerable  interest  to  science. 

Count  de  Ficalho. 

Lisbon,  June,  1881. 


30: 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


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Various  Dialects. 


PRONOUNS  IN  SIX  AFRICAN  DIALECTS. 


90 

To 
□ 

c3 

a 

I 

Erne 

Thou 

Eie 

He 

Iana 

We 

Etu 

You 

Enu 

They 

Ene" 

Bi 

lun- 


he  or 
bundo. 


Ame 

Obe 

Eie 

Etu 

Ene 

Obo, 


Bi 


Cabin  da. 


O    c3 

i?3 


Mine-    jNa 

•Teei Oeua  ... 

N'andi Ilena    ... 

Befo     Runa  ... 

Behenu    Quimina 

Bao,  Ba-bonse  Quibdna 


08   a 

Quioco. 

Oane    ... 

Jame 

Guiobe 

Baia... 

Vona-lua 

Anasso 

Obone . . . 

_ 

Men  e 

Oene 


Declension  of  the  Pronouns  of  the  N'Bunda  Tongue.1 

Plural. 
Norn.  — etu. 
Oen.   — i-etu. 
Dat.    — cu-etu. 
Abl.    — etu. 


Singular. 

SNom.  — emc. 
Gen.  — ia-me. 
Dat.    — cu-me. 
Abl.   — me. 


!Nom.  — eie. 
Gen.  — i-e  or  ri-e. 
Dat.    — cu-i-e. 
Voc.   — eie! 
Abl.    —  e,  ie. 
/'  Nora.  — ene  or  munee. 
Third    N  Gen.  — oe  or  ie. 
Person,  y  Dat.    — cu-ene  or  cu-muene. 
V  Abl.   — oe  or  ie. 


Norn.  — enu. 
Gen.  — i-enu. 
Dat.    eu-euu 
Voc.  — enue  ! 
Abl.    — enu. 
Nora.  — ene. 
Gen.  — iene. 
Dat.    — cu-ene. 
Abl.    —ene. 


Conjunctions. 
And— No.     That— Na.     Also— Oe. 

Interjections. 

Of  pain     ...   Ai !         ^  |  Of  grief,  terror Mame  ! 

Of  wonder  .  Ao-ah!  E-o-ah!  O-ah!  Of  silence T'chibia  ! 

Uf  affliction  Ai-o-e  !  Of  applause   Qui-o-ah  ! 

Of  fear He!  I  By  way  of  call  ... ...  Che! 


1  The  greater  part  of  the  elements  constituting  the  vocabulary  of  the  N'Bunda 
tongue  were  supplied  us  by  our  distinguished  aud  intelligent  friend  Sr.  A.  Urbano 
i    Monteiro  de  Castro. 


304 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


N'BUNDA  VOCABULARY. 


Portuguese. 

Abaixar 

Abalar 

Abalroar 

Abanar 

Abcesso 

Abel  ha 

Abel  has 

Abobora 

Aborrecer 

Abortar 

Abracar 

Abraco 

Acabar 

Acabou-se 

Acabou-se 

Accender 

A  char 

Acompanhar 

Acordar 

Acostumar-se 

Adiantar-se 

Adivinhar 

Adoecer 

Afastar 

Afogar-se 

Agradecer 

Agua 

Agua  doce 

Agua  salgada 

Aguia 

Ajudar 

Ajuntar 

Alegre 

Aleijado  de  nascenca 

Aleijado  por  molestia 

Aleijao 

Algodao 

Aloes 

Altercar 

Alto 

Alumiar 

Amadurecer 

Amamentar 


N'Bunda. 

Cu-butalala,  Cu-butama 

Cu-cumuna 

Cu-balacanha 

Cu-buquirila 

Qui-jimbo 

N'hique 

Ji-nhique 

Ri-nhango 

Cu-zemba 

Cu-secula 

Cu-zibubala 

N'dand'o 

Cu-azuba,cu-assuea,  cu-bua 

Iabo,  masc.  and /em. 

Cw.-2iho,neut. 

Cu-bia,  Cu-uica 

Cu-quimona,  Cu-sanja 

Cu-batessa 

Ca-toma 

Cu-irila 

Cu-rianga 

Cu-suma 

Cu-eata 

Cu-songoloea 

Cu-fua-mu-menha 

Cu-tondela 

Menha 

Menha-matome 

Menha-malula 

N'jinji 

Cu-cuatessa 

Cu-cucula,  Ou-bongolola 

Lela 

N'gonga 

N'mana 

Qui-nema 

Mujinha 

Quicalango 

Cu-richinga 

Leba,  Zangura 

Cu-muica 

Cu-bia 

Cu-amuissa 


English. 

To  lower 
To  decamp 
To  contend 
To  fan 
An  abscess 
A  bee 
Bees 
A  gourd 
To  hate 
To  miscarry 
To  embrace 
An  embrace 
To  finish 

It  was  finished 

To  kindle 

To  find 

To  accompany 

To  awake 

To  inure  oneself  to 

To  hasten 

To  foretell 

To  sicken 

To  drive  away 

To  drown 

To  thank 

Water 

Fresh  water 

Salt  water 

An  eagle 

To  help 

To  assemble 

Gay 

Crippled,  from  birth 

Crippled  hy  a  hurt 

Lameness 

Cotton 

Aloes 

To  dispute 

High 

To  light  t 

To  ripen' 

To  suckle 


N'  Bunda  Vocabulary. 


i05 


Portuguese. 

Amanhecer 

Am  ante 

Amargo 

Amigo 

Anciao 

Andar 

Andar  de  pressa 

Andar  de  vagar 

Andorinha 

Animal 

Anno 

Anoitecer 

Apagar 

Apalpar 

Apanhar 

Apertado 

Apertar 

Apontar 

Approximar-se 

Aprender 

Aquecer 

Ar 

Aranha 

Arco-iris 

Arder 

Areia 

Arm  a 

Arrancar 

Arrecadar 

Arregacar 

Arriar 

Arvore 

Aspirar 

Assar 

Assentar-se 

Assoar-se 

Assustar 

Atar 

Atirar 

Atmosphera 

Atravessar 

Atrazar-se 

Atrever-se 

Atrevido 

Atrevimento 

Aturar 

Aurora 

Avarento 

Ave 

Avistar 

Avo  ou  Ava 

Aza 

Azas 

Azedo 

vol.  jr. 


N'Bunda. 

Cu-cuaque 

N'bassa 

Lula 

Ri-camba 

Qui-culacaje 

Cu-enda 

Cu-longa 

Cu-riomba 

Piapia 

Qui-ama 

Muvo  (?) 

Cu-le'mbeca 

Cu-jima 

Cu-babata 

Cu-bonga 

Colo 

Cu-colessa 

Cu-riquiza 

Cu-sueta  e  Cu-zucama 

Cu  rilonga 

Ca-temessa 

Mulengbe 

Qui-jandanda 

Congolo 

Cu-t'chicbima 

Qui-sequele 

Uta 

Cu-catula 

Cu-luca 

Cu-zacular 

Cu-tuluca 

Mu  lemba  (?) 

Cu-feuta 

Cu-ribia,  Cu-zuza 

Cu-t'chieama 

Cu-bemba 

Cu-atucumuca 

Cu-cuta 

Cu-tacula 

Cu-cama  (?) 

Cu-cangalala 

Cu-n'guenica 

Cu-buma 

Mucu-an'ganje. 

N'ganje 

Cu-amburila 

Cii-guia 

Ca-coria 

N'jila 

Cu-amutala 

Cuco 

Ri-zaza 

Ma-zaza 

NVan<jama 


English. 

To  dawn 

A  lover 

Bitter 

A  friend 

An  elder 

To  go,  to  walk 

To  make  haste 

To  walk  slowly 

A  swallow 

An  animal 

A  year 

To  become  niirbt 

To  put  out  a  light 

To  feel,  to  touch 

To  take,  to  catch 

Tight,  urgent 

To  bind,  to  press 

To  point  at,  to  note 

To  draw  near 

To  learn 

To  grow  hot 

The  air 

A  spider 

A  rainbow 

To  burn 

Sand 

A  weapon 

To  pull,  to  root  up 

To  collect  (taxes) 

To  tuck  up 

To  slacken  (a  rope) 

A  tree 

To  breathe 

To  roast 

To  sit  down 

To  blow  the  nose 

To  frighten 

To  tie 

To  shoot,  to  throw 

The  atmosphere 

To  cross 

To  linger 

To  dare,  to  venture 

Daring,  inconsiderate 

Boldness,  effrontery 

To  suffer,  to  bear 

Dawn  of  day 

Covetous 

A  bird 

To  descry,  to  see  afar  off 

Grandfather,      or     grand- 

A  wing  [mother 

Wings 

Sour,  harsh 

X 


3o6 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


Portuguese. 

N'Bunda. 

English. 

Azeite 

Maji 

Oil 

Azeite  de  dendem 

Maji-ma-dende 

Cocoa  oil 

Azeite  doce 

Maji-ia-puto 

Sweet  oil 

Azeite  de  ricino 

Maji-ma-mono 

Castor  oil 

Bab  a 

Zeza 

Foam,  saliva 

Babar 

Cu-riuzila 

To  foam,  to  drivel 

Bacia 

Ri-longa 

Basin 

Baco 

Candjila 

Brown,  swarthy 

Baile 

N'goma 

A  dance 

Baixa  ou  varzea 

Honga 

A  fall,  or  low  ground 

Baixo  (adjectivo) 

Abuto 

Low  (adjective) 

Banana 

Ri-conjo 

Banana 

Bananeira 

Ma-conjo  (?) 

Ban  ana- tree 

Banhar-se 

Cu-rissulula 

To  bathe 

Banquete  de  carnehumana  Congo,  ou  Di-congo 

A  banquet  of  human  flesh 

Bao-bab 

Imbondo 

Bao-bab 

Barba 

Muezo,  ou  olongeri  (?) 

The  beard 

Barrete 

Cajinga 

A  cap 

Barriga 

Ri-vumo 

The  belly 

Barroca 

Ri-cungo 

A  gutter  made  by  floods 

Basso 

Mu-toto 

Spleen 

Bastao 

M'bassa,  ou  M'bassi 

A  stick 

Bater 

Cu-bunda 

To  beat 

Bebado 

Colua 

Drunken 

Beber 

Cu-nua 

To  drink 

Beico 

Mu-zumbo 

A  lip 

Beliscao 

Qui-n'jonjo 

A  pinch  or  nip 

Beliscar 

Cu-jangona 

To  pinch  or  nip 

Bello 

Euaba,  Uaba 

Fair,  beautiful 

Bexiga 

Qai-sut'chino 

A  bladder 

Bexigas  (variolo) 

Quin'gongo 

Pits  of  smallpox 

Bezerro 

Mona-ia-n'gombe 

A  bullock 

Bico 

Mu-sungo 

The  beak  of  a  bird 

Bobo 

Qui-tanga 

A  buffoon 

Boca 

Ri-cano 

The  mouth 

Bocal 

Mu-zenza 

Rude,  ignorant 

Boies 

N'zalazala 

The  lungs 

Bofetao 

Hutche 

A  slap  in  the  face 

Bofetdes 

Ji-hutche 

Blows 

Boi 

N'gonibe 

An  ox 

Bom 

M'bote 

Good 

Borboleta 

Qui-m'biambia 

A  butterfly 

Borbulha 

Bulo 

A  pimple 

Bom-far 

Cu-sassa 

To  sprinkle 

Bosque 

Mu-chito 

A  wood 

Bracelet  e 

Ma-lunga 

A  bracelet 

Braco 

Qui-cuaco 

The  arm 

Branco  (adjectivo) 

Izela 

"White 

Branco  (homen) 

Mu-n'dele 

A  white  man 

Branco  (pleben) 

Ca-n'gundo 

White  people 

Brando 

Lenduca 

Soft,  gentle 

Bravo 

Tenia 

Wild 

Braza 

Ri-cala,  Ri-tubia 

Live  charcoal 

N" Bunda  Vocabulary 


Portuguese. 

Brazas 
Brigar 
Brincar 

Brin co  (adorno) 

Buraco 

Buscar 

Cabaca 

Cabeca 

Cabello 

Cabo 

Cabra 

Caca 

Cacador 

Cacar 

Cadeado 

Cadeia  ou  Corrente 

Cadeira 

Cadeira  de  bauibu 

Cair 

Calar  a  boca 

Calcar 

Cal  calar 

Caldo 

Calor 

Calva 

Cama 

Camaleao 

Caminho 

Campo 

Canbamo 

Canoa  grande 

Canoa  pequena 

Cansado 

Cansar-se 

Can  tar 

Cantiga 

Cao 

Capim 

Capinar 

Capital 

Cara 

Caranguejo 

Caravan  a 

Careca 

Carga 

Carne 

Carneiro 

Caroco 

Carrapato 

Carregar 

Carvao 

Casa  de  palha 


N' Bund  a. 

English. 

Ma-eala,  Ma-tubia 

Live  cbarcoal  (jplur.) 

Cu-zoca 

To  fight 

Cu-toneca 

To  frisk 

Qui-n'guerenguele 

An  ornament 

Ri-zungo 

A  gap,  a  hole 

Cu-tocana 

To  seek,  to  search 

Ca-binda 

A  gourd 

Mii-tue 

The  head,  a  chief 

N'deinba 

Hair 

M'binhe 

An  end,  a  handle 

N  'combo 

A  she-goat 

N'hanga 

Chase,  game 

Ri-nhanga,  Ri»congo 

A  hunter 

Cu-losa,  Cu-nhanga 

To  chase,  to  hunt 

Ri-cumba 

A  padlock 

Ri-bambo 

A  chain 

Qui-alo 

A  chair,  a  seat 

N'benza 

A  bamboo  seat 

Cu-ribala,  Cu-noca 

To  fall 

Cu-richiba 

To  hold  the  tongue 

Cu-bata,  Cu  banda 

To  tread  upon 

Cu-ricanda 

To  reckon 

Mu-zongue 

Broth 

N'bema 

Heat 

Ri-bala 

Baldness 

Ri-londe 

Abed 

Ri-muguena 

A  chameleon 

N'jila,  Coca 

A  way,  a  road 

Ri-canga 

Afield 

Ri-ambu,  ou  Li-amba 

Hemp 

Dongo 

A  large  canoe 

Qui.-m'bola 

A  Miiall  ditto. 

N'buila 

Tired 

Cu-buila 

To  tire  oneself 

Cu-imba 

To  sing 

Mu-imbo 

A  song 

I  in  boa 

A  dog 

lango 

Tall  grass 

Cu-eombela 

To  mow  the  u  capim 

N'banza 

Capital 

N'polo 

The  face 

Qui-ala 

A  crab-fish. 

Qui-buca 

A  caravan 

Ri  bala 

Scurfy 

M'hamba 

A  load,  a  burden 

T'ehito 

Flesh,  meat 

M'buri 

Sheep,  mutton 

N'tendo 

Stone  (of  fruit) 

Ri*bata 

A  tick 

Cu-ambata,  Cu-loga 

To  load,  to  burden 

Cu-tuta 

Ri-cala 

Coal 

Cubuta 

Straw  hut 

x  2 

3o8 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


Portuguese. 

N'Bunda. 

English. 

Casa  de  pedra 

Lumbo 

Stone  bouse 

Casar 

Cu-socana  (?) 

To  marry 

Casca  de  arvcor 

Quibato 

Bark  of  trees 

Casca  de  frutoe 

Qui-ango 

Rind  of  fruit 

Caspa 

Qui-biache 

Scurf 

Castigar 

Cu-beta,  Cu-muba 

To  chastise 

Cauda 

Mu-quila 

A  tail 

Cavacos 

Jibato 

Chips 

Cavar 

Cu-canda 

To  dig,  to  hollow 

Caximbo 

M'peiche 

A  pipe 

Cego  de  nascenca 

Qui-lembo 

Blind  from  birth 

Cego  por  molestia 

Qui-fofo 

Blind  through  accident 

Ceremonia 

N'sonhe 

Ceremony 

Certo 

Tend 

Certain,  sure 

Cesto 

Qui-nda 

A  basket 

Ceu 

Inlo 

The  sky 

Chamar 

Cu-ambela,  Cu-cola 

To  call 

Chamma 

Qui-lecuea 

Flame 

Chegar 

Cu-bichila,  Cu-zucuma 

To  draw  near,  to  arrive 

Cheia 

Izala 

An  overflow 

Cheirar 

Cu-fenha 

To  smell,  to  scent 

Cheiro 

Ei-zumba 

Scent 

Chibo  (cabrito) 

N'combo 

A  kid 

Chorar 

Cu-rila 

To  cry 

Chover 

Cu-noca 

To  rain 

Choviscar 

Cu-sucomuca 

To  mizzle 

Chovisco 

Suco-suco 

Light  rain 

Chuco 

Mu-songo 

A  spear 

Chupar 

Ca-t'cbiba 

To  suck 

Chuva 

N'vula 

Rain 

Cigarra 

M'bangarala 

A  cicada 

Cinto 

N'ponda 

A  belt 

Cintura 

Canhonga 

The  waist 

Cinza 

Otucua 

Ashes 

Circumcisao 

Saia 

Circumcision 

Circumcisar 

Cu-saia 

To  circumcise 

Ciume 

Ri-fuba 

Envy,  jealousy 

Clarear 

Cu-n'zela 

To  dawn 

Claro 

N'zela 

Clear,  bright 

Cobra 

Nhoca 

A  snake 

Cobre 

Londo 

Copper 

Cobrir 

Cu-futa 

To  cover 

Cocar 

Cu-asa 

To  scratch " 

Cocega 

Hugota 

Tickling,  longing 

Cola  (fructo) 

Ri-queso 

Cola  (fruit) 

Colher 

N'guto 

To  gather 

Comecar 

Cu-mateca 

To  begin 

Comecou  o  luar 

M'begeia  tetama 

The  moon  shone  out 

Comer 

Cu-ria 

To  eat 

Comilao 

Qui-riacaje 

A  glutton 

Commercio 

Uendji 

Trade,  traffic 

Compatriota 

Mu-cuache 

A  fellow-countryman 

Compor-se 

Cu-ricoteca 

To  agree  with 

Comprar 

Cu-sumba,  Cu-senga 

To  buy 

Comprido 

Seba 

Long 

N'  Biinda  Vocabulary. 


309 


Portuguese, 

N'Bunda. 

English. 

Compriinentar 

Cu-menequena 

To  compliment 

Comprimeuto  (medida) 

Cu-leba 

Length 

Concha 

Qui-quesse 

A  shell 

Concha  (moeda  do  Congo) 

N'jimbo 

A  cowry 

Conhecer 

Cu-ijia 

To  know 

Conselheiro 

N'punga 

A  counsellor 

Consent  ir 

Cu-amburila 

To  consent 

Consorte  (f.) 

Mu-caje 

Wife 

Consorte  (m.) 

Mu-lume 

Husband 

Contar 

Cu-tangar 

To  count,  to  relate 

Copado 

N'zanda 

Tufted,  bushy 

Coracao 

N'zundo 

Heart,  spirit 

Cor  da 

Mu-colo 

A  cord,  rope 

Cordao 

Qui-bo 

A  lace,  a  string 

Coroa 

Qui-landa 

A  crown 

Corpo 

Mu-cuto 

A  body 

Correr 

Cu-lenga,  Ca-songuela 

To  run,  to  flow 

Cortar 

Cu-batula 

To  cut 

Coruja 

Ca-coco 

A  screech  owl 

Corvo 

Qui-lombe-lombe. 

A  crow 

Coser 

Cu-tunga 

To  sew 

Costas 

Ri-cunda 

The  back 

Costellas 

M'banje 

The  ribs 

Costume 

Quifa 

A  custom 

Cotovello 

Qui-pomuna 

The  elbow 

Couro 

Qui-ba 

A  hide,  skin 

Cousa 

Qui-ma 

A  thing 

Cova 

Ri-cungo 

A  pit,  ditch 

Coxa 

Ri-catacata 

The  thigh 

Coxear 

Cu-tengunha 

To  limp 

Coxo 

Qui-nema 

Lame 

Cozinhar 

Cu-ulamba 

To  cook 

Creanca 

N'dengue 

An  infant 

Crear 

Cu-sassa 

To  produce,  to  bring  up 

Creoulo 

Buchilo 

A  home-born  slave 

Crepusculo 

N'goioche 

Twilight 

Crer 

Cu-t'chicana 

To  believe 

Crescer 

Cu-cula 

To  increase 

Crime 

Qui-tuche 

A  crime 

Crista 

Qui-coacoa 

A  cock's  comb,  a  crest 

Critical' 

Cu-longolola 

To  criticize 

Crocodilo 

N'gando 

A  crocodile 

Cuidar 

Cu-fica 

To  think  of,  care  for 

Cultivar 

Cu-rima 

To  till  the  ground 

Cunhado 

N'uere 

Brother-in-law 

Cunhados 

Ji-uere 

Brothers  and  sisters-in-law 

Curandeiro 

Qui-n'banda 

The  medicine-man 

Curar 

Cu-vissaca 

To  cure,  heal 

Curral 

Qui-banga 

A  cattle  enclosure 

Curto 

Buto 

Short 

Curvar-se 

Cu-bolama 

To  bow  down 

Cuspir 

Cu-tamate 

To  spit 

Dansa 

Qui-na 

A  dance 

Dausar 

Cu-quina,  Cu-belela 

To  dance 

IO 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


Portuguese. 

Dansar  (batuque) 

Dar 

Dar  bo 

Dedo 

Deitar-se 

Deixar 

Deixar  passar 

Dente 

Dentes 

Depositar 

Derradeiro 

Desagradar 

Desatar 

Desbocado 

Descansar 

Descansar  a  earga 

Descarregar 

Descascar 

Descer 

Descobrir 

Desdobrar 

Desfazer 

Desgostar 

Desgraca 

Desrnanchar 

Despedir 

Despedir-se 

Despejar 

Desperto 

Desprender-se 

Destinar 

Destruir 

Deus 

Devastar 

Dever 

Dia 

Diarrhea 

Dinheiro 

Dinheiro  de  conchas 

Direccao 

Direito 

Distrahir-se 

Diurno 

Dividir 

Dizer 

Dobrar 

Doce 

Docil 

Doe  119a 

Doende 

Doente 

Doer 

Dono 

Dor 


N'Bunda. 

Cu-semba 

Cu-ubana 

Cu-ta-ribumbo 

Mu-lembo 

Cu-zeca,  Cu-zendalala 

Cu-ambula,  Cu-rechissa 

Cu-bitessa 

Ei-jo 

Ma-jo 

Cu-tutula 

Suquinina 

Cu-ibila 

Cu-jituna 

Qui-sebuisso 

Cu-nhoca 

Cu-tula 

Cu-longorala,  Cu-tu-turula 

Cu-tela 

Cu-tuluca 

Cu-rifolumuna 

Cu-futumuna 

Cu-sangunuma 

Cu-zemba 

Cu-t'chichima-lamba 

Cu-bula,  Cu-sangumuna 

Cu-zula 

Cu-t'chalessa 

Cu-lundulula 

Chiche 

Cu-sutumuca 

Cu-t'ciiinda 

Cu-jimonuna 

N'zambi 

Cu-bunda 

Cu-levala 

Qui-zua 

Mala-Manhinga 

Qui -tare 

N'jimbo 

Muchinda 

Lulama 

Cu-laleca 

Ia-luanha 

Cu-uana 

Cu-amba 

Ca-burijica 

Tola,  Toalela 

Lenduca 

Cu-cata 

Cu-zumbi 

Ache,  Ucate 

Cu-cata 

Mu-are 

N'gongo 


English. 

To  dance  {batuque) 

To  give 

To  tie  a  knot 

A  finger 

To  lie  down 

To  leave,  to  let 

To  let  pass 

A  tooth 

The  teeth 

To  deposit,  to  set  down 

The  last 

To  displease 

To  untie 

Hard  mouthed,  unruly 

To  rest 

To  set  down  a  load 

To  unload,  to  discharge 

To  strip  off  bark 

To  descend,  to  come  down 

To  uncover,  to  discover 

To  unfold 

To  undo,  to  loosen 

To  dislike,  to  disgust 

Misfortune 

To  take  to  pieces 

To  dismiss 

To  take  leave 

To  clear  away 

Awake 

To  detach  oneself 

To  devote,  to  design 

To  destroy 

God 

To  lay  waste 

To  owe 

The  day 

Diarrhoea 

Money 

Cowry  money 

Direction 

Eight,  straight 

To  amuse  oneself 

Daily 

To  part,  to  share 

To  say,  to  speak 

To  fold,  to  bend 

Sweet 

Docile 

Sickness 

Sickening 

Sick,  ill 

To  ache,  suffer 

A  gift 

Grief,  pain 


N'Bunda  Vocabulary. 


ii 


Portuguese. 

Dormir 

Duro 
Duvida 
Duvidar 
Dysenteria 

Echo 

Elephante 

Elogiar 

Em  bora 

Einprenhar  (v.  n.) 

Emprenhar  (v.  a.) 

Empurrar 

Encalhar 

Encantamento 

Encker 

Encolher 

Encontrar 

Encoutrar-se 

Endireitar 

Enfeitado 

Enfeitar 

Enfeite 

Enganar 

Engasgar-se 

Engordar 

Engulir 

Enrolar 

Ensinar 

Entender 

Enterrar 

Entornar 

Entrar 

Envenenar 

Enxada 

Enxadas 

Enxugar 

Errar 

Escama 

Eseamar  o  peixe 

Escapar 

EsGapar-se 

Escarnecer 

Escolher 

Esconder 

Escorregadico 

Escorregar 

Escorrer 

Escravo 

Escrever 

Escripto 

Escuridao 

Escuro 

Escutar 


N'Bunda. 

Cu-zeca,  Cu-lambarala 

Colo,  Colocota 

Pata 

Cu-cachicana 

Mala 

Cu-dumina 

N'zamba 

Cu-chimana 

Maie,  Me 

Cu-emita 

Cu-emetina 

Cu-t'chinguice 

Cu  cuaca 

Qui  buisa 

Cu-izalessa  [cunana] 

Cu-riconha,  Cu-coteca,  Cu- 

Cu-tacana 

Cu-t'chainenena 

Cu-rinica 

Quembo 

Cu-quemba 

Cuquemba 

Cu-t'umba 

Cu-vimenha 

Cu-netessa 

Cu-minha 

Cu-burica 

Cu-longa 

Cu-irna 

Cu-funda 

Cu-t'cbamuna 

Cu-bocola 

Cu-loa 

Ei-temo 

Ma-temo 

Cu-cuta 

Cu-tundala 

Qui-beretete 

Cu-banga-m'biji 

Cu-laia 

Cu-sentemuca 

Cu-seba,  Cu-muclela 

Cu-nona,  Cu-sola 

Cu-suana 

T'chanana 

Cu-t'chanana 

Cu-sonsumuna 

M'bica 

Cu-soneca 

Mu-canda 

Cumuda 

N'vundo 

Cu-bulacana,  Cu-iverila 


English. 

To  sleep 
Hard,  harsh 
Doubt 
To  doubt 
Dj-sentery 

Echo' 

An  elephant 
To  i  raise 
It  is  wel! 
To  conceive 
To  impregnate 
To  thrust 
To  run  aground 
An  enchantment 
To  fill  < 

To  shrink,  shrivel 
To  meet,  to  encounter 
To  meet  one  another 
To  straighten,  take  a  direct 
Adorned  [road 

To  dress,  deck  out 
Dress,  ornaments 
To  deceive,  to  cheat 
To  get  the  throat  stopped 
To  fatten,  grow  fat 
To  swallow- 
To  roll,  to  roll  up 
To  teach 
To  understand 
To  bury 

To  pour  out,  spill 
To  enter 
To  poison 
A  mattock,  a  hoe 
Tools 
To  dry 

To  miss,  to  wander 
Scale  of  a  fish. 
To  scale  fish 
To  escape 
To  run  away 
To  scoff,  to  rail  at 
To  choose 
To  hide 
Slippery 
To  slip,  slide 
To  drop 
A  slave 
To  write 

A  writing,  written 
Darkness 
Dark 
To  listen 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


Portuguese. 

Esfolar 

Esfregar 

Esfriar 

Esmagar 

Esmigalbar 

Espaco 

Espada 

E>palhar 

Espancar 

Espantar 

Esperar 

Espernear 

Esperteza 

Esperto 

Espetar 

Espinheiro 

Espinho 

Espirrar 

Esposa 

Esposo 

Espraiada 

Espreguigar-se 

Espremer 

Espuma 

Esquecer 

Esquentar 

Esquerdo 

Estaca 

Estar 

Esteira 

Estender 

Estender  a  seccar 

Esteril 

Estiar 

Estimar 

Estomago 

Estourar 

Estrada 

Estranho  (forasteiro) 

Estreito 

Estrella 

Estremecer 

Estupido 

Excellente 

Expulsar 

Extinguir 

Faca 

Fado  (sorte) 

Faisca 

Falcao 

Falliar 

Fallador 

Fallar 


N'Bunda. 

Cu-tala 

Cu-t'chissa 

Cu-talala 

Cu-bonda 

Cu-tutula 

Bulubo 

Mu-cuali 

Cu-muanga 

Cu-beta,  Cu-muba 

Cu-atucumuca 

Cu-quinga 

Cu-ribonda 

Qui-muca 

Muca 

Cu-sona,  Cu-soneca 

Mu-banga 

Man  ha 

Cu-gacbacha 

Mu-caje 

Mu-lume 

Quin'zenza 

Cu-visonuna 

Cu-t'china 

Quifulo 

Cu-jamba 

Cu-temessa 

Quiasso 

Ri-taoa 

Cu-a,  Cu-ala,  Cu-cala 

Richissa,  Luando,  Gando 

Cu-sonuDa 

Cu-aneca 

M'baco,  Cavale 

Cunana 

Cu-sola 

Mu-t'cbina 

Cu-baza 

Njila 

Qui-n'guanji 

Sossa 

Tetemboa 

Cu-tequeta 

T'chimba 

Poena 

Cu-lundumuna 

Cu-lijimonuna 

N'poco 

Mut'chinda 

Sosso 

Olococo 

Cu-burica 

Asueri 

Cu-zuela 


.  English. 

To  flay 

To  rub,  scour 

To  cool 

To  crush,  bruise 

To  crumble 

Space 

A  sword 

To  scatter 

To  cudgel 

To  frighten,  astonish 

To  await,  to  expect 

To  kick 

Alacrity 

Brisk,  active 

To  put  on  a  spit 

A  thorn-tree 

A  thorn 

To  sneeze,  crackle 

A  bride 

A  bridegroom 

A  beach,  strand 

To  stretch  oneself 

To  squeeze,  to  wring 

Froth,  foam 

To  forget 

To  heat 

The  left 

A  stake,  palisade 

To  be 

A  mat 

To  spread 

To  spread  out  to  dry 

Barren 

To  cease  (rain) 

To  value,  esteem 

The  stomach 

To  burst  with  a  noise 

A  highway 

A  foreigner 

Narrow,  a  strait 

A  star 

To  tremble,  shudder 

Stupid 

Excellent 

To  drive  out 

To  extinguish 

A  knife 

Fate 

A  spark 

A  hawk 

To  mistake 

A  talkative  person 

To  speak 


N*  Btinda  Vocabulary. 


3^3 


Portuguese. 

N'Bunda. 

English. 

Fallar  em  segredo 

Cu-feta 

To  whisper 

Faltar  (nao  aparecer) 

Cu-moneque 

To  be  missing 

Faltar  (ter  falta   de 

qual-  Cu-camba 

To  want  (something) 

Fardo                [quer 

;osa)]  Ri-cuba 

A  bale,  a  pack 

Farinha 

Fuba 

Flour,  meal 

Farrapos 

Ma-nhango 

Rags 

Fatigar-se 

Cu-builla 

To  fatigue  oneself 

Fazer 

Cu-banga 

To  do,  to  make 

Fazer  queixa 

Cu-funda 

To  make  a  complaint 

Fazer-se  tolo 

Cu-ritobessa 

To  make  a  fool  of  oneself 

Fealdade 

Cu-iba 

Deformity 

Fechar 

Cu-jica 

To  shut 

Feio 

Tba 

Ugly 

Feiticeiro 

Mu-roje 

A  fetish-man 

Feitico 

Uanga,  Izango 

Fetish 

Feixe 

Qui-ta 

A  faggot 

Feliz      • 

Zeliia 

Happy 

Femea 

Mu-hato 

A  female 

Ferir 

Cu-tua,  Cu-cuama 

To  strike,  wound 

Fermentar 

Cu-bota 

To  ferment 

Ferro 

Itari 

Iron 

Ficar 

Cu-it'cbala,  Cu-cala 

To  remain,  to  be 

Figado 

Izavo 

The  liver 

Filho 

Mona 

A  son 

Filho  ultimo 

Ca-sula 

The  younger  son 

Filhos 

A-ana 

Sons,  children 

Fino 

Atolo  (?) 

Fine,  thin 

Flexivel 

Lenduca 

Flexible 

Fogao 

Ri-jico 

A  stove 

Fogo 

Tubia 

Fire 

Folhas 

Ma-fo 

Leaves 

Fome 

N'zala 

Hunger 

Fomentar 

Cu-jola 

To  foment 

For^a 

N'guzo 

Force,  strength 

Formiga 

Qui-t'cbiquinha 

An  ant 

Formiga  branca 

Ri-talamena 

White  ant 

Formiga  grande 

Qui-sonde 

Great  ant 

Formiga  preta 

Findja-songo 

Black  ant 

Fortaleza 

Qui-m'baca 

A  fortress,  fortitude 

Forte 

Colo-suina 

Strong 

Fraco 

Berequete 

Weak 

Frente 

Polo 

The  front 

Fresco 

Talala 

Fresh,  cool 

Frigir 

Cu-canga,  Cu-canghala 

To  fry 

Frio  (adjectivo) 

Talala 

Cold 

Frio  (substaiitivo) 

N'bambe 

Cold 

Frondoso 

N'zanda 

Leafy. 

Froxo 

N'zoza 

Slack,  remiss 

Fugir 

Cu-alenga,  Cu-toleca 

To  flee,  to  run  away 

Fumar 

Cu-uua 

To  smoke 

Famo 

Ri-t'chi 

Smoke 

Funeral 

Itame 

A  burial 

Furoar 

Cu-tubula 

To  bore,  pierce 

Furoo 

Ri-zungo 

A  hole,  gap 

3H 


West  and  Central  Africa, 


Portuguese. 

JV'Bunda. 

English. 

Furtar 

Cu-n'hana 

To  steal,  tbieve 

Furunculo 

Cazangambo 

A  boil,  tubercle 

Fuso 

.N'zelele 

A  spindle 

Gabar 

Cu-t'chimana 

To  praise 

Gafanhoto 

Qui-n'jongo 

A  locust 

Gallinha 

Sanji 

A  hen,  fowl 

Gallo 

Corombolo 

A  cock 

Ganhar 

Cu-vua 

To  gain,  get 

Ganho 

N'ganiba 

Gain 

Garbo 

Tolomba 

Gallantry,  grace 

Garca 

N'dele 

A  heron 

Garganta 

Qui-quelengo,  Mu-ino 

The  throat 

Gargantas 

Mino 

Trills 

Gato  do  mato 

T'chimba 

Wild  cat 

Gemer 

Cu-quema 

To  groan,  to  cry 

Gemeo 

N'gongo 

A  twin 

Gemeo  que  nasce  primeiro 

Ca-culo 

First-born  twin 

Gemeo  que  nasce  segundo 

Ca-baca 

Second-born  twin 

Gengiva 

Cufufunha 

The  gums 

Genro 

Glome 

A  son-in-law 

Geute 

Mun-tu 

People 

Giboia 

Mu-ma 

Large  snake 

Gorama 

Oasso 

Gum 

Gordo 

Neta 

Fat 

Gostar 

Cu-nabela 

To  taste,  to  like 

Governar 

Cu-tumina 

To  rule,  direct 

Grande 

Onene 

Large,  grand 

Grandeza 

M  utala 

Largeness,  grandeur 

Grelo 

Ei-esso 

A  sprout,  a  shoot 

Grelos 

M'esso 

Grelots 

Grelo  de  aboboza 

Mu-engueleca 

Gourd-sprout 

Grelo  de  mandioca 

Qui-zaca 

Manioc-sprout 

Grillo 

Ri-zenze 

A  cricket 

Gritar 

Cu-ricola 

To  shout,  cry  out 

Grcsso 

.  N'jimba 

Big,  coarse 

Guardar 

Cu-lunda 

To  keep,  to  watch 

Guela 

Qui-quelengo 

The  throat 

Guerra 

N'jita 

War 

Guloso 

Benga,  Labuve 

Greedy,  nice 

Habilidade 

N'dungue 

Skill,  dexterity 

Habitar 

Cu-cala 

To  inhabit 

Habituar-se 

Cu-ijirila 

To  accustom  oneself 

Herva 

M'boa 

Grass,  herb 

Hervas 

Ji-m'boa 

Herbs 

Hiena 

Qui-malanca 

Hyena 

Hippopotarao 

N'guvo 

Hippopotamus 

Hombro 

Qui-suche 

Shoulder 

Homem 

E-i-ala 

A  man 

Hospede 

Mu-sonbe 

A  host,  a  guest 

Idolo 

Qui-teque 

An  idol 

Igual 

Suquela 

Equal,  even 

JV9 Bun  da  Vocabulary. 


oAo 


Portuguese. 

JS'Bunda. 

English. 

Igualar 

Cii-suquela 

To  level,  to  equal 

Ilha 

Qni-sanga 

An  island 

Ilharga 

]\Liocoto 

The  side,  flank 

Immundicie 

Cut'chila 

Filth 

Impertinente 

Tern  an  an  a 

Troublesome,  exacting 

Incendiar 

Cu-barabuca 

To  set  on  fire 

Inchado 

K  jimba 

Swollen,  inflated 

In char 

Cu-jimba 

To  swell,  to  inflate 

Inclinar-se 

Cu-betama 

To  bend  the  head  or  body 

Incommodar 

Cu-temanana 

To  molest 

Infeliz 

Mundama 

Unhappy 

Ingrato 

N'gula 

Ungrateful 

Inhame 

Qui-ringo,  Quia,  N'zamba 

Inhame  (yam) 

Inimi^o 

N'guma 

Enemy 

Insultar,  com  palayras, 

Cu-rit'chinga 

To  insult 

Inteiro 

N'vimba 

Entire,  complete 

Inveja 

Lungue 

Envy 

Ir 

Cu-enda,  Cn-a 

Togo 

Ir-se 

Cu-iamage-ia-me 

To  go  away,  leak 

Ir-se  para  sempre 

Cu-endezela 

To  depart  finally 

Ira 

N'jenda 

Anger 

Iras 

J-n'jenda 

Outburst  of  anger 

Irmao,  a 

Pangue 

Brother,  sister 

Isca  (engodo) 

Qui-t'chica 

A  bait 

Isolado 

Ubeca 

Isolated 

Jangada 

M'bimba 

A  raft 

Joelho 

Qui-pomuna 

The  knee 

Jogo 

M'bamba 

Play,  a  game 

Joven 

N'zanga,  N'zangala 

A  youth 

Juraraento 

Loca 

An  oath 

Jurar 

Cu-ricuba,  Cu-loca 

To  take  an  oath 

Justo  (certo) 

Tena,  Suquela 

Right,  exact 

Kagado 

M'bache 

Tortoise 

Labio 

Mu-zumbo 

A  lip 

Labios 

Ri-zumbo 

Lips 

Laco 

Ri-bumbo 

A  snare 

Lacraia 

N'gueinga 

Scorpion 

Lado 

M'banji 

Side 

Ladrao 

Mu-ije 

A  thief 

Ladrar 

Cu-boza 

To  bark 

Lagarta 

M'bamba 

Palmer- worm 

Lagartixa 

Ri-tende 

A  water-lizard 

Lagarto 

Sengue 

A  lizard 

Lago 

Ri-zanga 

A  lake 

Lagosta 

Qui-ala 

A  lobster 

Lagrima 

Ri-soche 

A  tear 

Lama 

Ri-cua 

Mud,  mire 

Largar 

Cu-ambula 

To  let  go,  loose 

Largo 

Sancomuca 

Broad 

Largura 

Cu-sanzamuca 

Breadth 

Lavar 

Cu-sucula 

To  wash 

316 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


Portuguese. 

N'Bunda. 

Leao 

Hoje 

Lebre 

Cabulo 

Lembrar 

Cu-t'chinguenca 

Lenha 

Ji-ninhe 

Levantar 

Ca-balamuca,  Ca-betula 

Levantar-se 

Cu-fundunioca 

Levar 

Cu-beca 

Leve  (ligeiro) 

Lenguluca 

Limpar 

Cu-conda,  Cu-sucula 

Limpo 

N'zela,  N'conda 

Lingua 

Ri-mi 

Linguas 

Ma-rimi 

Lobo 

Qui-n'bungo 

Lodo 

Ri-lua 

Lombriga 

Ri-buca 

Lou  co 

Lage 

Louva-adeus 

Capopolo,  Mucondo 

Louvar 

Cu-t'chimana 

Lua                      [nuvens] 

Ri-ege 

Lua    (a)     mostra-se    sem  Ri-ege  iato 

Luz 

Luanha 

Maca 

Oanda 

Macaco 

Ima 

Macbado 

N'guimbo,  Guitcbalo 

Macho 

Ri-ala 

Macio 

Lenducatete 

Madrugar 

Cu-rimeneca 

Maduro 

Iabi 

Mae 

Mama 

Magia 

Qui-lemba 

Magro 

N'bela 

Maior  (em  idade) 

Ri-cota 

Mai 

Iba 

Maldizer 

Cu-longolola 

Mamar 

Cu-amoa 

Mandar 

Cu-'tuma,  Cu-zuela 

Mandioca 

Qui-ringo 

Manha 

Qui-menemene 

Manilhas 

Malunga 

Mao 

Maco 

Mao  direita 

Maco-mu-curia 

Mao  esquerda 

Maco-ma-quiasso 

Mar 

Lunga 

Marca 

M'bica 

Mare 

N'vula 

Mare  cbeia 

N'vula  iata 

Mare  vasia 

N'vula  iabo 

Marrar 

Cu-luica 

Mastigar 

Cu-janguta 

Matar 

Cu-jiba 

Mato 

Mu-chito 

Mau 

Tern  a 

Medir 

Cu-zonga 

English. 

A  lion 

A  hare 

To  remind 

Wood,  fire-wood 

To  raise,  to  lift 

To  rise 

To  carry  away 

Light,  slight 

To  clean 

Clean 

A  tongue 

Tongues 

A  wolf 

Clay,  loam 

A  mawworm 

Mad 

Insect  so  called 

To  praise 

The  moon    [from  the  clouds 

The  moon  appears  or  breaks 

Light,  brightness 

A  hammock 

A  monkey 

A  hatchet 

Male 

Smooth,  sleek 

To  rise  early 

Ripe 

A  mother 

Magic 

Lean 

Older 

Evil,  mischief 

To  curse,  to  defame 

To  suck 

To  order,  send 

Manioc 

The  morning 

Bracelets 

A  hand 

The  right  hand 

The  left  hand 

The  sea 

A  mark,  a  token 

The  tide 

High  tide 

Low  tide 

To  butt  with  the  head 

To  chew 

To  kill 

A  wood,  thicket 

Bad,  wicked 

To  measure,  survey 


N*  Bunda  Vocabulary, 


3l7 


Portuguese. 

N'Bund 

Medo 

Moma 

Meio 

]\Iachacbe 

Mel 

Mique 

Menina 

Ca-quiiito 

Menino 

Ca-iala 

Mentir 

Cu-tamacuto 

Mentira 

Macuto 

]\[ercado 

Qui-tanda 

Mergulhar 

Cu-ta-m'fimba 

Mergulho 

M'fimba 

Mestre 

Messene 

Metade 

Cacbache 

Metter 

Cu-ta 

Mez 

M'beje 

Miar 

Cu-rila 

Mi  jar 

Ca-sassa 

Mijo 

Masso 

Milho 

Ri-sa 

Milho  miudo 

Massa-m'bala 

Miolo 

Hongo 

Misturar 

Cu-funga 

Mo 

Muisso 

Moeda 

M'bongo 

Moedas 

Jim-bongo 

Moer 

Cu-nocona 

Molhado 

N'zula 

Molhar 

Ca-zula 

Molle 

Nengana 

Mondar 

Cu-sonzuela 

Monte 

Mu-lundo 

Monturo 

Ri-cbita 

Morar 

Cu-cala 

Morcego 

Qui-m'biambire 

Morder 

Ou-lumata 

Morno 

Lubuca 

Morrer 

Cu-fua 

Morte 

Ciifua 

Morto  (fem.) 

Iato 

Morto  (raasc.) 

Uafo 

Mosca 

N'je 

Moscas 

Jin-je 

Mostrar 

Cu-riquiza 

Mover 

Cu-tengueita 

Mudo 

Ri-bubii 

Mugir 

Ca-zila 

Muito 

Duraba 

Mulher 

Mu-bato,  X'casi 

Mulher  casada 

Mu-hato 

I\Iulher  que  trabalha 

Mu-ocana 

Multidao 

Qui-pucbe 

Mundo 

]\Iugongo 

Muro 

Lumbo 

English. 

Fear 

The  middle,  half 

Honey 

A  little  girl 

An  infant 

To  lie 

A  lie 

A  market 

To  dip,  to  dive 

A  dip,  a  dive 

A  master 

Half 

To  put.  to  place 

A  mouth 

To  mew 

To  make  water 

Urine 

Maize 

Millet 

Pith 

To  mix,  to  blend 

A  mill-stone 

Money,  coin 

Coins 

To  grind 

Wet,  moist 

To  wet,  moisten 

Soft 

To  weed 

A  hill,  mountain 

A  dung-hill 

To  dwell,  inhabit 

A  bat 

To  bite 

Lukewarm 

To  die 

Death 

A  corpse  (fem.) 

A  corpse  (masc.) 

A  fly 

Flies 

To  show,  point  out 

To  move 

Dumb 

To  low 

Much,  very 

A  woman 

A  married  wcman 

A  work  woman 

A  multitude 

The  world 

A  wall 


Nadar 


Cu-coquea 


To  swim 


v» 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


Portuguese. 


Nadega 

Nadegas 

Namorar 

Namoro 

Nariz 

Nascer  a  planta 

Nascer  o  homein 

Negar 

Negocio 

Negro  (adject.) 

Negro  (subst.) 

Nevoa 

Ninho 

N(5 

Noite 

Nome 

Nora 

Novo 

Nu 

Nua 

Nuca 

Numeroso 

Navem 

Obrigado 

Obscenidade 

Obscenidades 

Obsceno 

Obseryar 

Offensa 

Officio 

Officios 

Oiro 

Olhar 

Olho 

Olho  do  pe 

Olhos 

Onca 

Orelha 

Osso 

Outono 

Ouvir 

Ovo 

Ovos 

Pae 

Pagar 

Paiz 

Palavra 

Palha 

Palma 

Palma  da  mao 

Palmas 

Palineira 


N'Bunda. 

English. 

Ri-taco 

The  buttock 

Ma-taco 

Haunches 

Cu-ta-ribassa 

To  woo,  court 

Ri-bassa 

Courtship 

Ri-suno 

The  nose 

Cu-sabuca 

To  grow,  to  spring 

Cu-rivala 

To  be  born 

Cu-rituna 

To  deny,  refuse 

Uenje 

Trade,  business 

Itchi-querela 

Black 

M'bundo 

A  black 

Ri-mume 

A  fog,  mist 

Qai-anzo 

A  nest 

Ri-bumbo 

A  knot 

O-suco 

Night 

Ri-jina 

A  name 

Bal'acaje 

A  water-wheel 

lobe 

New 

Uazula 

Naked 

Iazula 

Naked  (fem.) 

Ri-cuche 

The  nape  of  the  nee' 

Dumba 

Numerous 

Ri-tula 

A  cloud 

Saquirila 

Obliged 

N'daca 

Obscenity 

Jin-daca 

Obscenities 

N'daca 

Obscene 

Cu.-tongueinica 

To  observe 

Malebo 

An  offence 

Mnfumo 

An  office 

Mifuino  (?) 

Offices 

Ulo 

Gold 

Cu4ala,  Cu-tongue:nina 

To  look  at 

N'isso 

An  eye 

Qui-nama 

Plant  of  the  foot 

Ma-isso 

Eyes 

Hingo 

A  panther 

Ri-tue 

An  ear 

Qui-fuba 

A  bone 

Cu-samano 

The  autumn 

Cu-ivua 

To  hear 

Ri-caque 

An  egg 

Ma-iaque 

Eggs 

Tata 

Father 

Cu-futa 

To  pay 

Coche 

A  country 

Mu-longa 

A  word 

T'chita 

Straw 

Mu-soco 

The  palm 

Ri-cunda-ria-macu 

Palm  of  the  hand 

Mi-soco 

Palms  (of  the  hands) 

Dende,  Rie 

Palm-tree 

N '  Bunda  Vocabulary. 


Portuguese. 

Panella 

Pan  no 

Panno  tecido  de  vegetaes 

Pao 

Papagaio 

Papo 

Papyro 

Parar 

Parasita 

Parir 

Partir  (ausentar-se) 

Partir  (dividir) 

Partir  de  noite 

Passar 

Patria 

Pau 

Paus 

Pe 

Pedaco 

Pedir 

PeJra 

Pegada 

Pegar 

Peito 

Peito  (seio  de  mulher) 

Peixe 

Peixe  fresco 

Peixe  mulher 

Pellado 

Pelle 

Pendurar 

Peneira 

Peneirar 

Penna 

Pensar 

Pequeno 

Perder 

Perdiz 

Perguntar 

Pern  a 

Perse  vejo 

Pesudo 

Pesar 

Pescar  com  anzol 

Pescar  com  rede 

Pescoco 

Pessoa 

Pessoas 

Pezar 

Pilao 

Pimenta 

Pingar 

Pintar 

Piolho 


N' Bund  a. 

Imbia 
Mulele 

Mabella 
M'bolo 

N'cusso 

Ri-colocumba 

Mabu 

Cu-imaca 

Lua 

Cu-avala 

Cu-catuca 

Cu-uana 

Cu-lembaca 

Cu-bila 

Coche 

Mu-chi 

Mi-cbe 

Qui-nama 

Qui-chinbe 

Cu-binga,  Cu-bomb* 

Ei-tave 

Ri-canda 

Cu-cuata 

N'tulo 

Ri-ele 

M'bije 

M'bije-ia-lelo 

Qai-anda 

Cunuca 

Qui-conda 

Cu-nhingue  eneca 

Qui-sessalo 

Cu-sessa 

Qui-sala 

Cu-banza,  Cu-fica 

Ofele,  Tete 

Cu-jimberila,  Cu-ful 

K'gnare 

Cu-ibula 

Qui-nama 

Qui-isso 

Eneme 

Cu-eneme 

Cu-16a 

Cu-tamba 

Ri-t'chingo 

Mun-tu 

A-to  ou  Bantu 

Mahuio 

Qui-no 

IS'dungo 

Cu-buba 

Cu-t'cbissa 

Ina 


English . 

A  pipkin 

Cloth 

Vegetable  cloth 

Bread 

A  parrot 

Maw  (of  a  bird) 

Pap3'rus 

To  stop,  to  hinder 

A  parasite 

To  bring  forth  young 

To  depart,  go  away 

To  divide,  to  sever 

To  flit 

To  pass,  to  carry  over 

Native  country 

Wood 

Sticks 

A  foot 

A  bit,  a  piece 

To  ask 

A  stone 

A  footstep 

To  take  hold  of,  to  stick 

The  breast 

The  bosom 

A  fish 

Fresh  fish 

A  mermaid 

Without  hair 

Skin 

To  hang 

A  sieve 

To  sift 

A  feather 

To  attend  on,  to  think 

Small,  little 

To  lose  _ 

A  partridge 

To  ask 

The  leg 

Bug 

Heavy 

To  weigh 

To  fish,  with  a  hook 

To  fish,  with  a  net 

The  neck 

A  person 

Persons 

Grief,  repentance 

A  mortar  for  pounding 

Pepper 

To  drip 

To  paint 

A  louse 


320 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


Portuguese 

N'Buhda. 

English. 

Pisar  com  o  pe 

Cu-riata 

To  tread,  to  bruise 

Plantar 

Cu-cuna 

To  plant 

Pobre 

Ri-arna 

Poor 

Poco 

I-t'chima 

A  well 

Pode  ser  (talvez) 

T'chila,  Cu-cala,  N'go 

Perhaps 

Poder 

Cu-atena 

To  be  able 

Podre 

N'bolo 

Rotten 

Polvora 

Fundanga 

Gunpowder 

Pomba 

Ri-embe 

A  female  dove 

Ponta 

Ri-sun 

A  point 

Por 

Cuta,  Cutula-cu-ata 

To  place,  put 

Por  de  parte 

Cu-mughenga 

To  put  aside  . 

Por  id ra 

Cu-teche 

To  put  out 

Porco 

N'gulo 

A  pig 

Porco  espinho 

Qui-saca 

A  porcupine 

Porco  niontez 

lanvo 

A  wild  pig 

Porrinho 

N'ghimbo 

Wart 

Porta 

Ri-bito 

A  door 

Portas 

Ma-bito 

Doors 

Possuir 

Cu-ava 

To  possess 

Posta  de  peixe 

Tumba 

A  slice  of  fish 

Pote 

Ri-sanga 

A  pitcher 

Pouso  (de  viagem) 

Hundo 

A  halting-place 

Povo 

Mun-tu 

The  people 

Povocao 

Sanza,  Banza 

A  town,  village 

Prato 

Ri-longa 

A  plate,  dish 

Preceder 

Cu-rianga 

To  go  before 

Precipitar  (depositar) 

Cu-quenzama 

To  precipitate 

Precisar 

Cu-messena 

To  want 

Preguica 

Usuri 

Laziness 

Preguicoso 

Suri 

Lazy 

Prender 

Cu-Cuica 

To  take  hold  of,  seize 

Prensa 

Calaquelle 

A  press 

Preparar 

Cu-banga 

To  prepare 

Presenca 

Polo 

Presence 

Pvecenca  (na)  de  alquera. 

Mu-polo-ia-muntu 

In  some  one's  presenc 

Preso 

Cuica 

A  prisoner 

Pretender 

Cu-acana 

To  claim 

Primavera 

Cu-tano 

Spring 

Primeiro 

Ri-anga 

First 

Primo 

Panghe 

A  cousin 

Principe 

Mani,  Muene 

A  prince 

Principiar 

Cu-mateca 

To  begin 

Privacao 

Obunga 

Privation 

Privado 

Quibunji 

A  favourite 

Procurar 

Cu-sota 

To  search,  ask  for 

Produzir 

Cu-ima 

To  produce 

P  romp  to 

Longo 

Ready 

Provar 

Cu-161a 

To  prove,  taste 

Proximo 

Zucama 

Next 

Publicar 

Cu-fumanena 

To  publish 

Pular 

Cu-tumbuca,  Cu-subuca 

To  leap,  bound 

Palga 

Ina-ia-imboa 

A  flea 

Puro 

Cu-cuto 

Pure,  untainted 

N'Bunda  Vocabulary. 


321 


Portuguese. 

jS'Bunda. 

English. 

Puxar 

Cu-sunga,  Cu-mana 

To  draw,  to  pull 

Quarto 

Inzo,  Monzo 

A  room 

Quarto  de  dorinir 

Monzo-ia-quile 

A  sleeping-room 

Quebrar 

Cu-burica,  Cu-bula, 

Cu-tulola 

To  break 

Queda 

Cu-ribala 

A  fall,  declivity 

Queimar 

Cu-bia,  Cu-sumica 

To  burn 

Queixada 

N'gandelo 

Tbe jaw-bone 

Queixo 

Mu-ezo 

The  jaw 

Quente 

Teino 

Warm 

Querer 

Cu-andala,  Cu-t'chicana, 

Cu-Messeua 

To  will,  to  like 

Quiabo 

Qui-n'gonibo 

Quiabo  (a  plant) 

Quitandeira 

Mubare 

A  market-woman 

Quitandeiras 

A-bare 

Market-women 

Ra 

Qui-n'gololo 

A  frog 

Rachar 

Cu-bassa 

To  cleave,  crack 

Raia  (peixe) 

Papa 

A  ray  (fish) 

Raio 

N'zaje 

A  ray  (of  light) 

Raiva 

N jenda 

Rage,  fury 

Raivas 

Ji-u'jenda 

Rabies 

Raiz 

N'danje 

A  root 

Ralbar 

Cu-basela 

To  bluster,  to  scold 

Ramo 

N'tango 

A  branch,  bough 

Rapariga 

Qui-luemba 

A  girl 

Rapaz 

N'zanga,  N'zmgala 

A  boy 

Rapido 

Mulgengo 

Rapid 

Raposa 

M'bulo 

A  fox 

Rasgar 

Cu-tandula 

To  tear,  to  rend 

R as par 

Cu-colola 

To  scrape 

Rato  grande 

Ri-bengo 

A  rat 

Rato  pequeno 

Mundongo,  Ca-mundongo 

A  mouse 

Rato  do  mato 

N'puco 

Field-mouse 

Rato  de  palmeira 

Chit-n'jangkele 

Tree-mouse 

Rebentar 

Cu-basa 

To  burst 

Receber 

Cu-tatnbulula 

To  receive 

Recent  ar 

Ca-tau^ulula 

To  tell,  relate 

Recostar-se 

Cu-sendalala 

To  lie  down 

Rede  (maca) 

Panda 

A  net 

Relampago 

Cuteluca 

Lightning 

Reined  io 

Milons^o 

Remedy,  cure 

Renielia 

Qui-pota 

Rheum  of  the  eyes 

Repugnancia 

N'ghenghe 

Reluctance 

Re  sin  a 

Coco  to 

R.-sin 

Respirar 

Cu-buima 

To  breathe 

Res  ponder 

Cu-cumbulula. 

To  answer 

Revirar 

Cu-bilula 

To  turn  again 

Revistar 

Cu-ongola 

To  review 

Ri  bom  bar 

Cu-cumina 

To  resound,  re-echo 

Ribombo 

Omnina 

Re-echo 

Rico 

N'vama 

Rich 

Rio 

Mu-guije 

A  river 

VOL.    IT. 

Y 

22 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


Portuguese. 

jS'Bunda. 

English. 

Eiqueza 

Cu-viia 

Eicbes 

Eir 

Ca-elela 

To  laugb 

Eiscar 

Cu-canda 

To  stripe 

Eisco 

Ma-canda 

A  stripe 

Eisonho 

Mu-eina 

Gay 

Eivaes 

A-cajina 

Eivals 

Rival 

Mu-cajina 

A  rival 

Eoca 

Qui-fuco 

A  rock 

Eocar  mato 

Cu-sola 

To  fell  timber 

Eocas 

A-rimo 

A  clearing 

Eoda 

Conda 

A  wbeel 

Eoer 

Cu-cunha 

To  gnaw,  to  nibble 

Eogar 

Cu-bomba 

To  intreat 

Eola 

Ei-embe 

A  turtle-dove 

Eolar 

Cu-cundumuna 

To  coo 

Eoncar 

Cu-cona,  Cu-mucona 

To  snore 

Eua 

N'zunga 

A  street 

Eugir  (o  leao) 

Cu-rila 

To  roar 

Saber 

Cu-ijia 

To  know 

Sacerdote 

N'ganga 

A  priest 

Sacudir 

Cu- cum  una 

To  sbake 

Sair 

Cu-tunda 

To  go  out 

Sal 

Miingua 

Salt 

Saltar 

Cu-tuuibuca,  Cu-somboca 

To  jump,  spring 

Sangue 

Manhinga 

Blood 

Sanguesuga 

Ei-zaie 

A  leech 

Sanguesugas 

Ma-zaie 

Leeches 

Sapo 

Ei-sundo 

A  toad 

Sarampo 

Cafife 

The  measles 

Sarna 

Cahana,  Ji-cabana 

The  itch 

Saudar 

Cu-menequena 

To  salute 

Seccar 

Ca-cucuta 

To  dry 

Secco 

Cucuta 

Dry 

Sede 

Einbota 

Thirst 

Segredar 

Cu-cufeta 

To  secrete 

Segredo 

Feta 

Secret 

Segurar 

Cu-cuata 

To  secure 

Semente 

M'buto 

Seed 

Sementes 

Ji-mbuto 

Seeds 

Senhor 

N'gana,  Famo,  Muave 

Master,  Sir 

Senhora 

N'ga-muato 

Mistress,  Madam 

Sentar-se 

Ou-t'chicama 

To  sit  down 

Sentar-se  de  pernas 

cruza- 

das 

CQ-tcbicama  macata 

To  sit  cross-legged 

Sentir 

Cu-rinsa 

To  feel 

Separar 

Cu-mughenga 

To  separate 

Sepultar 

Cu-funda 

To  bury 

Sequestrar 

Cu-bunda 

To  attach 

Sertanejo 

Mucu-ia-tuuda 

An  inhabitant  of  the  woods 

Sertao 

Tunda 

Back-woods 

Silencio 

Eit'ohibiena 

Silence 

Sino 

N'gunga 

A  bell 

Soebrbo 

Ei-tula 

Proud 

N'Bunda  Vocabulary, 


3*3 


Portuguese. 


N'Bunda. 


English. 


Sobrar 

Cu-subuca 

To  overflow 

Sobrinho 

Muebo 

A  nephew 

Socar,  pilar 

Cu-sula 

To  cram,  to  bruise 

Soffrer 

Ou-n'tfonjja 

To  suffer 

Soffrimento 
Sogro 

"NT*                       ° 

iN  gongo 
Ocue 

Suffering,  patience 
A  father-in-law 

Sol 

Ricumbe 

The  sun 

Sol  (0)  poz-se 

Ricumbe-riafo 

The  sun  sets 

Soltar 

Cu-iituna 

To  set  free 

Soltereio 

• 

Ki-cure 

A  bachelor 

Solucar 

Cu-t'chucomuca 

To  sob,  hiccup 

Soluco 

Qui-t'cbuco-t'chuco 

A  sob,  hiccup 

Sombra 

Qui-lumbequeta 

Shade 

Somno 

Quilo 

Sleep 

Sonhar 

Cu-anda-n'zoje 
.N'zoje 

To  dream 

Sonho 

A  dream 

Soprar 

Cu-bussa 

To  blow,  to  puff 

Sorte 

Muchinda 

A  lot,  chance 

Sovaco 

JVlu-cabia 

Arm-pit 

Subir 

Cu-banda 

To  mount,  to  2:0  ud 
Dirt                        * 

Suja 

lat'cbire 

Sujar 

Cu-chiriosa 

To  befoul,  to  stain 

Suj0> 

Uat'chire 

Dirty,  impure 

Suinir-se 
Surdo 

Cu-jiquinina 
Mu-cbilo 

To  disappear 
Deaf 

Surra 

Muchinga 

A  whipping,  beating 

Surrar 

Cu-cbinga 

To  whip,  beat 

Suspender 

Cu-betula 

To  hang  up 

Susto 

U6ma 

Fright 

Tabaco 

Macanha 

Tobacco 

Taboleiro 

Qui-tanda 

A  board,  plank 

Tabua 

lii'baia 

A  plank 

Tamarindeiro 

Mu-tamba 

A  tamarind- tree 

Tamarindo 

Ki-tamba 

Tamarinds 

Tanibor 

N'goma 

A  drum 

Tanque 

It'chima 

A  tank 

Tapar 

Cu-futa 

To  cover,  to  stop  a  hole 
A  tortoise 

Tartaruga 

Qui-covo 

Tecer 

Cu-leca 

To  weave 

Tecto 

Hongo,  Iauzo 

The  ceiling,  roof 

Teimar 

Cu-n'jiza 

To  be  obstinate 

Teimoso 

X'jisa 

Obstinate 

Tempo 

Iti-cumbe 

Time 

Tenda  ou  barraca 

Cnsassaniba 

Tent  or  hut 

Tenro 

N  yeta,  Tete 

Tender,  soft 

Terminar 

Cu-assuca 

To  finish 

Terra 

Mapo,  Dunda 

Earth 

Tigela 

Ili-tamina 

Porringer 

Tingir 

Cn-teca 

To  dye 

Tio,  tia 

Seculo 

Uncle,  aunt 

Tirar 

Cu-catula 

To  draw,  pull 

Tirar  do  solo 

Cu-lola 

To  dig  up 
To  touch 

Tocar 

Cu-t'chica 

324 


West  and  Central  Africa. 


Portuguese. 

N'Bunda. 

English 

Tolice 

Cu-toba 

Folly 

Tolo 

Toba 

Foolish 

Tomar 

Cu-tambula,  Cu-zama 

To  take 

Tomar  sentido 

Cu-aluca 

To  take  care 

Tom  ate 

Mate 

Tomato 

Tomates 

Ji-mate 

Tomatoes 

Tornozelo 

Risso-ria 

The  ankle 

Torrar 

Cu-canda 

To  toast 

Torto 

N'hunga 

Hurt,  wrong 

Tossir 

Cu-cocona 

To  cough 

Tosse 

Qa-chinda 

Cough 

Trabalhar 

Ou-calacala,  Cu-socana 

To  work 

Trapo 

N'bomba 

A  clout,  rag 

Trapo  de  "  toilette  " 

N'zumbi 

Cloth,  dress 

Travesseiro 

N'peto 

A  bolster 

Trazer 

Cu-beca,  Ca-tema 

To  fetch,  bring 

Tremer 

Cu-tequeta 

To  tremble 

Trilho 

Pambo  (?) 

Track,  path 

Tripa 

Mu-ria 

Tripe  ^ 

Tripas 

Mi-ria 

Intestines 

Tronco 

Muche 

Trunk 

Trope9ar 

Cu-ribucana 

To  stumble 

Trovao 

N'vula 

Thunder 

Trovejar 

Cu-tonoca 

To  thunder 

Tubarao 

Mu-ando 

A  shark 

Tumulo 

Qui-bila 

Tomb 

Ubre  (de  vacca) 

Qui-ele 

Udder  (of  a  cow) 

Ultimo 

Su-quinina,  Quinguinina 

Last 

Umbigo 

N'gombo 

Navel 

TJnha 

Qui-ala 

Nail,  claw 

Universe- 

Mugongo 

Universe 

Untar 

Cu-t'chissa 

To  grease 

Utero 

Qui-saje 

Uterus 

Vaccinar 

Cuta  qui  n'gongo 

To  vaccinate 

Vadiar 

Cu-laleca 

To  loiter 

Vadio 

Qui-lalo 

A  vagrant 

Vagaroso 

Qui-muanho 

Lingering 

Vallada 

N'bamba 

Intrenched 

Valente 

Qui-n'danda 

Vigorous 

Vara 

Ri-bamba 

Rod,  yard 

Varrer 

Cu-comba 

To  sweep 

Vasar 

Cu-baba 

To  empty 

Vasio 

Cucuto 

Empty 

Vassoura 

Qui-ezo 

A  broom 

Vela 

Mu-tchiba 

A  candle 

Velbo  (adj.) 

Ociilo 

Old 

Velho  (subst.) 

Qui-culacaje 

Old  man    . 

Vender 

Ou-sumbissa 

To  sell 

Veneno 

Oanga 

Poison 

Vento 

Qui-tembo 

Wind 

Ventosa 

M'zungo 

A  cupping-glass 

Ventre 

Ri-vuino 

Belly 

N'Jenji  Vocabulary 


3^5 


Portuguese. 

Ver 

Verdade 

Verde 

Vergonha 

Verme 

Verruga 

Vestir 

Vida 

Vinho  de  niilho 

Vinhode  palnieira 

Vingar-se 

Vir 

Virar 

Viscosidade 

Visitar 

Viuvo 

Viuvos 

Viver 

Voar 

Voltar 

Vomitar 

Vou  por  terra 

Voz 


Portuguese. 

Apodrecer 

Apparecer 

Aprender 

Arder 

Areia 

Arm  a  [latra] 

Anna  de  carregar  pela  cu- 

Arvore  (pau) 

Assar 

Assentar 

Atar 

Avarento 

Azeite 

Beber 

Comer 
Correr 

Dormir 


X' Bund  a. 

English. 

Cu-mona,  Cu-tanghilila 

To  see 

Qui-ri 

Truth 

Uisso,  Acansa 

Green 

Sonhe,  Ei-jino 

Shame 

M'bamba 

Worm 

T'cbirabolocoto 

Wart 

Cu-zuata 

To  dress 

Muenho 

Life 

U-ala 

Maize  wine 

Maruvo 

Palm  wine 

Cu-rifuta 

To  avenge  oneself 

Cu-iza 

To  come 

Cu-biluca 

To  turn 

N-zeza 

Stickiness 

Cu-acumunequena 

To  visit 

Mu-ture 

Widower 

A-ture 

Widowers  and  widows 

Cu-muenha 

To  live 

Cu-luca,  Cu-nhunga 

To  fly 

Cu-vutuca 

To  turn 

Cu-lussa 

To  vomit 

N'ghia-cu-tunda 

I  am  going  by  land 

Eizue. 

Voice 

N'JENJI. 

N'Jenji. 

English. 

Cu-porire 

To  rot 

Cu-tamobona 

To  appear 

Cu-liluta 

To  learn 

Cu-t'cbiza 

To  burn 

Messeque 

Sand 

Toboro 

Arm  (weapon) 

Toboro-ia-cutoani 

Breech-loader 

Cota 

Tree 

Cu-bessa 

To  roast 

Cu-na 

To  seat 

Cu-tama 

To  tie,  to  bind 

Afani 

Avaricious 

Mafura 

Oil 

Cu-Doa 

To  drink 

Cu-t'chia 

To  eat 

Cu-titama 

To  run 

Cu-lubala 

To  sleep 

Li-tou 

Elephant 

Elephante 

1  The  N'jenji  and  Ca-luiana  dialects  are  those  spoken,  as  far  as  we  could  judge,  in  the  vast 
region  of  the  Baroze,  the  latter  being  probably  used  by  the  ancient  Mu-cololo. 


326 

West  and  Central 

Africa. 

Portuguese. 

N'Jenji. 

Engl 

Fugir 
Fumar 

Cu-saba 
Cu-zuba 

To  fly,  to  run 
To  smoke 

Haver 

Cu-tabona 

To  have 

Ir  ou  andar 

Cu-zamaia 

Togo 

Parar 

Cu-luquema 

To  stop 

Querer 

Cu-abata 

To  wish 

Saltar 

Cu-tura 

To  jump 

Vestir 

Cu-apara 

To  dress 

GARANGANJA. 


Portuguese. 

Garanganja. 

Engh 

Alegre 

Liatocu 

Gay,  lively- 

Algodao 

Muleeana 

Cotton 

Alma 

Va-mufo 

Soul 

Alto 

Cu-leha 

High 

Alumiar 

Cu-miniea 

To  light 

Amanhecer 

Uaquere'oa 

To  break  (day) 

Amante 

Mu-cut'chia 

Lover 

Amargo 

Ussoca 

Bitter 

Amarrar 

Mu-uba 

To  fasten 

Ami  go  (meu) 

Cuno-oame 

Friend  (my) 

Andorinha 

Cafifa 

Swallow  (bird) 

Anno 

Muaca 

Year 

Anoitecer 

Lili-cu-fucula 

To  grow  right 

Apagar 

Ou-zima 

To  extinguish 

Apanhar 

Cu-tola 

To  handle,  touch 

Apartar 

Ulaja-niculitulila 

To  divide 

Apertado 

Liacossa 

Narrow 

Apodrecer 

Cu-iabora 

To  rot 

Apontar 

Cu-inica 

To  point  out 

Apparecer 

Cu-mobona 

To  appear . 

Aprender 

Cu-libula 

To  learn 

Aquecer 

Cu-tumessa 

To  heat 

Arco  (setta) 

Cu-cassa 

Bow  (weapon) 

Arder 

Cu-ratema 

To  burn 

Areia 

Masseque 

Sand 

Arma 

Tobola 

Arm  (weapon) 

Arranhar 

Cu-suenha 

To  scratch 

Arremessar 

Cu-ela 

To  throw  away 

Arrependido 

Nalipupa 

Penitent 

Arvore  (pau) 

Qui-ti 

Tree 

Assar 

Ou-soca 

To  roast 

Assentar 

Cu-icara 

To  seat 

Quioco  Vocabulary 


3*7 


Portuguese. 

Garanganja. 

Eih 

Atirar 
Avarento 
Azas 
Azeite 

Cu-era 
U-latana 
Ma-cara 
Ma-futo 

To  shoot 
Avaricious 
Handles 
Oil 

Beber 

Cu-toma 

To  drink 

Comer 

Ou-virioa 

To  eat 

Despir 
Dormir 

Cu-rula 
Cu-lala 

To  strip 
To  sleep 

Fugir 
Fumar 

Cu-fiuca 
Cu-peha 

To  fly,  to  rui 
To  smoke 

Haver 

Cu-lobassi 

To  have 

Ir  ou  andar 

Cu-jia 

Togo 

Saltar 

Cu-zomboca 

To  jump 

Ver  _ 
Vestir 

Cu-lola 
Cu-apara 

To  see 
To  dress 

QUIOCO. 


Portuguese. 

Quioco. 

English 

Abelhas 

Ma-pnca 

Bpes 

Agua 

Meia 

Water 

Alma 

Uafa  f 

Soul 

Arco-iris 

Congolo 

Rainbow 

Arm  a 

Uta 

Arm  (weapon) 

Arvore  (pau) 

Mi-tondo 

Tree 

Assentar 

Cu-tuama 

To  sit 

Avo 

Caca 

Grandfather 

Avo 

Cuco-mama 

Grandmother 

Banco 

Mu 

Bench 

Barbas 

Uenvo 

Beard 

Barriga 

D'jimo 

Belly 

Beber 

Cu-noa 

To  drink 

Beicos 

Ni-vumbo 

Lips 

Boca 

Canoa 

Mouth 

Boi 

N'gombe 

Ox 

Bonito 

M'pema 

Nice 

Bran co  (cor) 

T'chitoma 

White 

Branco  (homem) 

D'jungo 

White  man 

Bracos 

Moce 

Arms 

Cabeca 


Mutoe 


Head 


28 


West  and  Central  Afi 


rica. 


Portuguese. 

Cabellos 

Cabra 

Oachimbo 

Cadella 

Calor 

Cama 

Cao 

Capim 

Cara 

Carneiro 

Casas 

Cavallo  (marinlio) 

Cbapeu  de  sol 

Chuva 

Cobra 

Comer 

Coracao 

Deus 

Dentes 
Dia 
Doente 
Dormir 

Elerhanfce 
Estrellas 

Farinha 

Feio 

Filha 

Filho 

Fogo 

Formiga 

Frio 

Fumar 

Gallinha 
Gatlo 

Homem 

Ir  ou  andar 

Irma 

Irrnao 

Lado  direito 

Lado  esquerdo 

Leao 

Lua 

Luz 

Mae 

Mandioca 
Mao  direita 


(vluioco. 

En 

N'cambo 

Hair 

M'pembe 

Goat 

M'peixe 

Pipe 

Boloa-caoa 

Bitch 

Matocota 

Heat 

Mu-gbele 

Bed 

Caoa 

Dog 

Muhando 

High  grass 

Maquille 

Face 

M'panga 

Sheep 

Mu-n'zuo 

House 

N'guvo 

Horse  (sea) 

Cafuanda 

Hat 

N'vula 

Rain 

Luloca 

Snake 

Cu-via 

To  eat 

Bungue 

Heart 

N'zambi  (?) 

God 

Ma-se 

Teeth 

Tang  via 

Day 

Canaindje 

III,  sick 

Cu-pomba 

To  sleep 

N'djamba 

Elephant 

Tugonocbe 

Stars 

Lupa 

Floor 

Mupi 

Ugly 

Cuemba 

Daughter 

Camique 

Son 

Caghia 

Fire 

Tunguenba-guenha 

Ant 

T'cbica 

Cold 

Cu-ma 

To  smoke 

Cassumbi 

Hen,  fowl 

Demba-cassumbi 

Cock 

Sunga 

Man 

Cu-enda 

Togo 

])um-boame 

Sister 

Pueto 

Brother 

Cut'chi-zume 

Right 

Cut'chi-meso 

Left 

Tamboe  ou  Temboe 

Lion 

Cacuje 

Moon 

Deia 

Light 

Ma-ma 

Mother 

Mucamba 

Manioc 

Zume 

Right  hand 

Lunda  Vocabulary 


329 


Portuguese. 


Quioco. 


English. 


Mao  esquerda 

]\Iessi 

Left  hand 

Maos 

Minue 

Hands 

Mar 

Calunga 

Sea 

]\Ieio  dia 

Nonga-eimoala 

Midday,  noon 

Mel 
Mulher 

Uit'chi 
Po 

Honey 
Woman,  wife 

Nariz 

N'zulo 

Nose 

Olhos 

Messo 

Eyes 

Orelhas 

Ma-t'chi 

Ears 

Pae 

Tala 

Father 

Peito 

Pambo 

Breast 

Pernas 

Molo 

Legs 

Pes 

Mi-uoe 

Feet 

Pescooo 

Cota 

Neck 

Kio 

N'guije 

River 

Eola 

Catelia 

Turtle-dove 

Sal 

Sangue 

Miingua 
Manhenga 

Salt 
Blood 

Sova 
Sol 

Muene-n'gana 
Mualua 

Petty  king 
Sun 

Sul 

Culuanda 

South 

Tabaco 

Macanha 

Tobacco 

Terra 

Mutifut'chi 

Earth 

Tia 

Tata-po 

Aunt 

Tio  ( 

Mat'cho 

Uncle 

Tipoia 
Trovao 

Uanda 

Palanquin 
Thunder 

Trovoada 

Fundji 

Thunder-clap 

Unhas 

Djala 

Nails,  claws 

Vacca 

N'bolo 

Calf 

Veias 

Ma-chaha 

Verdade  (E) 

T'chaquene 

True  (It  is) 

Portuguese. 

Agua 
Agulha 
Amanha 
Am  ante 
Amigo  (meu) 
Amigo  (teu) 


LUNDA. 

Lunda. 

Meme 

Catumo 

Diamachica 

Mucaje  (plu)  Acaje 

Mu-run'ame 

Mu-run'ei 


English. 

Water 
Needle 
To-morrow 
Lover 

Friend  (my) 
Friend  (thy) 


3o 


West  and  Central  Africx. 


Portuguese. 


Lund  a. 


English. 


Amigos  (meus) 

Arun'ame 

Friends  (my) 

Amigos  (teus) 

A-run'ei 

Friends  (thy) 

Anoitecer 

Cu-t'chuco 

To  grow  night 

Arco  (seta) 

Djirian 

Bow  (weapon) 

Arraa 

Uta  (pi.  Muta) 

Arm  (weapon) 

Arvore 

Mu-tondo 

Tree 

Arvore  (pan) 

Mi-tondo 

Pole 

Boi 

N'gombe 

Ox 

Boi  (silvestre) 

M'bau 

Buffalo 

Branco  (homera) 

Mena-Cu-m*me 

White  (man) 

Cabellos 

D'ji-n'suque 

Hair 

Cabra 

M'pembe 

Goat 

Caca  (empostis) 

Dji-riama 

Chase,  hunting 

Caca 

Nam  a 

Game,  venison 

Cama 

Ulalo 

Bed 

Camas 

Ma-lalo 

Beds 

Caneca 

Lu-passa 

Jug 

Canecas 

Dji-en'passa 

Jugs 

Canoas 

Ma-oato 

Canoes 

Cao 

Cabo  (pi.  A-tubua) 

Dog 

Capim 

Massuco 

High  grass 

Carneiro 

Mu-coco 

Sheep 

Carneiros 

Ama-coco 

Sheep  (pl.V 

Carregador  (tipoias) 

T'chimangata 

Carrier 

Casa 

T'chi'cumbo 

House 

Casas 

I'cumbo 

Houses 

Cavallo  (marinho) 

N'guvo 

Horse  (sea) 

Copo 

Lu-sumo 

Cup,  glass 

Copos 

Dji-sumo 

Cups,  glasses 

Corca 

N'cai 

Doe 

Corpo 

Mu-djumba 

Body 

Closer  (com  agulha) 

Ca-t'chima 

To  sew 

Cosido  (esta) 

Uassuca 

Sewed 

Cozinhar 

Cu-suca 

To  cook 

Dia 

Dichuco 

Day 

Dias 

Ma-cbuco 

Days 

Dormir 

Cu-langala 

To  sleep 

Elephantes 

N'zovo 

Elephants 

Euxada 

Lu-casso 

Hoe 

Euxadas 

Djincasso 

Hoes 

Faca 

N'passa 

Knife 

Facas 

Dji  n'passa 

Knives 

Fazendas 

Ma-suma 

Goods 

Feijao 

N'zengo 

Bean 

Feiticeiro 

Mu-ladji 

Fetish-man 

Fogo 

N'casso 

Fire 

Folhas 

Ma-iji 

Leaves 

Fumo 

Cunanga 

Smoke 

Gallinhas 

A-n'zollo 

Fowls 

Ca-Ltiiana  Vocabulary 


oo 


Portuguese. 

Lund  a. 

Engh 

Horn  em 

Icungue 

Man 

Horn  ems 

Ama-cungue 

Men 

Hon  tern 

N'galoche 

Yesterday 

Infundi 

Ruco 

Dish  so  called 

Lenha 

N'cunhe 

Wood 

Longe  (h) 

Palepe 

Far  (it  is) 

Machado 

Ca-sau 

Hatchet 

Machados 

Tu-sau  ?) 

Hatchets 

Mandioca 

Candinga 

Manioc 

Mao 

T'chi-cassa 

Hand 

Maos 

Ma-cassa 

Hands 

Mulher 

Mi-n'banda 

Woman,  wife 

Mulheies 

N'banda 

Women,  wives 

Nuima  (oryx) 

M'chilla 

Numia  (oryx) 

Nuimas 

Ama'cbilla 

Nuimas 

Nuima  gazella 

M'ceifo 

Gazelle 

Nuimas 

Ama'ceifo 

Gazelles 

Olho 

Di-ce 

Eye 

Olhos 

Me-ce 

Eyes 

Orelha 

Di-to 

Ear 

Orelhas 

Ma-to 

Ears 

Palanca  antelope 

T'chi-fembe 

Palanca 

Palancas 

I-fembe 

Palancas 

Pe 

Mu-nto 

Foot 

Pes 

Mi-ento 

Feet 

Rio 

U-ita 

River 

Rios 

Ma-uita 

Rivers 

Setas 

I)ji-ineu 

Arrows 

Sim,  senhor 

Muan-ini 

Yes,  sir 

Sol 

Mutenhe 

Sun 

Tabaco 

Ruanda 

Tobacco 

Terra 

Divo 

Earth 

Tipoia 

Moa 

Palanquin 

CA-LUIANA. 


Portuguese. 

Ca-Luiana. 

English 

Cavallo  (marinho) 

N'gufo 

Horse  (sea) 

Dormir 

Cu-langana 

To  sleep 

Feio 

Oatama 

Ugly 

33* 


West  and  Central  Af, 


rzca. 


Portuguese. 

Feiticeiro 

Feitico 

Feixe 

Femea 

Filho 

Flor 

F lores 

Fogo 

Folha 

Folhas 

FolJes 

Fome 

Fore  a 

Formiga 

Fraco 

Fresco 

Frio 

Fugir 

Fumar 

Fumo 

Furar 

Furtar 

Fuzo 

Gafanhoto 

Gallinha 

Gallo 

Gallos 

Gato  do  mato 

Gemeos  (primeiro) 

Gemeos  (segundo) 

Gemer 

Gengiva 

Giboia 

Gordo 

Grande 

Grilo 

Gritar 

Grosso 

Guardar 

Guella 

Guloso 

Guerra 

Herva 
Hombro 
Ho  mem 
Hyena 

Ilha 

Ilhas 

Inchado 

Infeliz 

Inimicro 


Ca-lutatw. 

Urot'chi 

N'ganga 

Icundi 

M'banda 

Moana 

Li-cumbi 

Mia-cumbi 

Quesse 

Li-fo 

Ma-fo 

Miniba 

N'dala 

N'gofo 

Tumoe-moe 

Gufone 

T'chassosoma 

T'chissica 

Cu-temoca 

Cu-feba 

T'chisse 

Cu-furula 

Cu-combe 

T'chitina 

Bimba 

N'zolo 

Li-corombollo 

Ma-corombollo 

Caronzo 

Nhana-ca-cu-sema 

Nhana-ca-cu-atame 

Cu-ima 

Caluvira 

Boma 

Oanuna 

Oenene 

Canzenzi 

Cu-moanga 

Chacatambi 

Cu-succa 

Caraca 

Oassupa 

N'jita 

T'chicoco 
T'chi-peoca 
N'jara 
N'ganga 

Li-seque-iatunda 

Ma-seque-iatunda 

T'chanana 

Oabindamoa 

Oatama 


English. 

Fetish-man 

Fetish 

Faggot,  bundle 

Female 

Son 

Flower 

Flowers 

Fire 

Leaf 

Leaves 

Bellows 

Hunger 

Force,  strength 

Ant 

Weak 

Fresh 

Cold 

To  fly,  to  run 

To  smoke 

Smoke 

To  bore 

To  rob 

Spindle 

Locust 

Fowl,  hen 

Cock 

Cocks 

Wild  cat 

Twin  (first) 

Twin  (second) 

To  groan 

Gum 

Boa 

Fat 

Great,  large 

Cricket 

To  cry  out 

Thick 

To  keep,  guard 

Throat 

Gluttonous 

War 

Herb,  grass 
Shoulder 
Man 
Hyena 

Island 

Islands 

Swollen 

Unhappy,  unlucky 

Enemy 


Ca-Luiana  Vocabtdary. 

Portuguese. 

Ca-luiana. 

English. 

Inveja 

Ulinoa-ca-noquenje 

Envy 

Ir  ou  andar 

Cu-enda 

To  go 

Irma 

Mana-oaiala 

Sister 

Irmao 

Mana-cueto 

Brother 

Joelho 

Mendo 

Knee 

Labio 

Cano 

Lip 

Laco 

Luobi 

Noose 

Lacraia 

Oarique 

Scorpion 

Lado  direito 

Sinarui 

Right 

Lado  esquerdo 

Cambau 

Left 

Ladrao 

U-cpmbe 

Thief 

Lagartas 

Ma-cubi 

Caterpillar 

Lagarto 

Cambo 

Lizard 

Lago 

Cana-ca-calunga 

Lake 

Lagrimas 

Ma-zossi 

Tears 

Lama 

lloba 

Mud,  mire 

Largo 

Clucatambe 

Broad 

Lavar 

Cu-cussa 

To  wash 

Leao 

Mu-nhime 

Lion 

Lebre 

Oalumba 

Hare 

Leite 

Mai  ere 

Milk 

Lenha 

Itiabo 

Wood 

Leve 

T'chapepera 

Light  (not  heavy) 

Limpar 

Cu-combora 

To  clean 

Lingua 

Lilaca 

Tongue,  language 

Lobo 

Quimbo 

Wolf 

Lodo 

lloba 

Mud,  loam 

Lombriga 

Caboba 

Worm 

Louco 

Oassaluca-coloba 

Mad 

Lua 

KHzoro 

Moon 

Luz 

Moera-cuessi 

Light 

Macaco 

Buia 

Monkey 

Machado 

Sirepe 

Hatchet 

Macho 

Iara 

Male 

Macio 

T'chassenena 

Smooth 

Maduro 

Quia 

Mature,  ripe 

Mae 

Ma-mae 

Mother 

Magro 

Oago-cama 

Thin 

Maior 

T'chicatampe 

Elder 

Maniar 

Cu-atama 

To  suck 

Mandioca 

Macamba 

Manioc 

Manha 

Tete-mena 

To-morrow 

Manilha 

M'baro 

Handle 

Mao  direita 

T'chaculida 

Right  hand 

Mao  esquerda 

Quimosso 

Left  hand 

Maos 

Ma-cassa 

Hands 

Mar 

Calunga-  munene 

Sea 

Massar 

Cu-cassa 

To  beat 

Mastigar 

Cu-polocot 

To  chew 

Matar 

Cu-t'cha 

To  kill 

Mato 

Micula 

Wood  (thicket) 

OJO 


334 


West  and  Central  Africa, 


Portuguese. 


Medir 

Medo 

Mel 

Menino 

Mentira 

Mestre 

Metade 

Mez 

Milho 

Miolos 

Molhado 

Monte 

Morcego 

Morto 

Mosca 

Mosquito 

Querer 

Ver 


Ca-luiana. 

En 

Cu-ess3ca 

To  measure 

Uoma 

Fear 

Ut'chi 

Honey 

Cauzi 

Little  child 

Oalimba 

Lie 

Gangura 

Master 

Cat'chibele 

Half 

N'zolo 

Month 

C abaca 

Maize 

Quipuji 

Brains 

Chazula 

Wet 

Pide 

Hill,  mount 

Capapa 

Bat 

Mutb 

Dead 

Cadeane 

Fly 

Camama 

Mosquito 

Cu-t'chinga 

To  wish 

Cu-bona 

To  see 

00 


35 


INDEX. 


Abba- Alta- Azimuth,  i.  84,  ii.  26,  189. 

Abelmuschus  esculentos,  i.  358,  367. 

Acacia  farnesiana  albida,  i.  253,  281. 

Acacias,  i.  45,  49,  224,  281  ;  ii.  22. 

A-cajes,  i.  387. 

Acantaeeas  in  Quicongo,  ii.  89. 

Adansonia  (genus),  i.  16;  ii.  88.  A. 
diuitata  i.  278,  367  ;  inner  bark  of,  i. 
16,  278,  ii.  266. 

Africa,  difficulty  of  studying,  xxii.; 
nations  labouring  in,  xxv ;  considera- 
tions respecting  slavery  in,  i.  165. 

Ahnandrilha,  i.  8. 

Aloes,  Liliacea,  i.  103  ;  ii.  266. 

Arnbaca,  ii.  187;  productions  of,  ii.  189. 

Ambaquistas,  remarks  upon,  i.  194,  ii. 
39,  188. 

Ambassi,  Ambaca  guide,  i.  123,  132. 

Ambris,  ii.  82,  147. 

Ambrizette,  ii.  149. 

Arnbuella  country,  i.  93. 

Angola,  province  of,  i.  59. 

Anna,  district  of,  i.  60. 

Anona  muricata,  i.  371. 

Antelopes,  varieties  of,  i.  67. 

Ant-hills,  i.  51,  81,  329. 

Anthropophagy,  fears  that  it  inspires,  i. 
248;  where  exercised,  i.  81,  165,248; 
ii.  125,  217. 

Ants,  bi-so?ides,  i.  82,  95, 118,  241  ;  red, 
284;  stinking,  ii.  19. 

Apocinaceas,  i.  223,  303. 

Aquilonda  (Lake),  remarks  upon,  ii.  145. 

Arabs,  their  influence  in  Central  Africa, 
ii.  262. 

Arachis  hypogea,  i.  74,  366. 

Arachnidios,  ii.  30. 

Arms,  native  names,  i.  166. 

Arundo  phragmites,  on  the  Lui,  ii.  11. 

Assagais,  i.  53,  94. 

Asses,  i.  49,  58,  85,  124. 

Asphalt,  ii.  233. 


A-topa,  pipe,  i.  393. 

Athene  perlata,  owl,  ii.  187. 

Authors,  general  idea  concerning  the,  i. 
xxiv ;  become  explorers,  i.  xxvi ; 
tributes  of  gratitude,  xxxi ;  speech 
made  by  them  to  the  Ma-hungo,  ii.76. 

Avelino  Fernandez,  ii.  229. 

Ba-bihe  people,  i.  108. 

Baboons  (G-alago  Senigalensis)  (galago 
monteiri)  nat.  fcldcafo,  i.  241. 

Ba-cano,  among  the  Bangala,  i.  324. 

Baccari  river,  ii.  125. 

Ba-congo,  tribes  of  the,  ii.  88,  135. 

Ba-cuando  tribes,  i.  108. 

Ba-cuisso  tribes,  i.  108. 

Ba-cundi  tribes,  ii.  125. 

Ba-ganguella  people,  i.  108. 

Bagre,  clarias  anguillaris,  i.  253,  301, 
358 ;  ii.  107. 

Bai-lundo,  district  of,  i.  42,  102 :  people, 
i.  13,  191. 

Baker,  Sir  S.,  i.  113. 

Bale,  dangerous  rivulet,  ii.  13. 

Balearia  regulorum,  i.  67. 

Ba-lunda  people,  i.  385. 

Banana,  Musacea,  i.  25,  103 ;  ii.  255. 

Ba-nanos  people,  i.  80,  81 ;  incursions  of, 
i.  39,  80. 

Ban-bonda,  territory  of,  i.  108. 

Ban-cumbi  tribes,  i.  81. 

Ban-dombe  tribes,  i.  10,  25. 

Bandua,  lofty  barrier  in  Luimbi,  i.  145. 

Ban-gala  tribes,  i.  263  ;  general  features 
of,  i.  323  ;  wars,  adultery  among  them, 
i.  324 ;  their  drunkenness,  i.  325  ;  am- 
bition, dwellings,  their  construction, 
i.  326;  industry,  wives,  &c.  i,  327;  their 
establishment  in  the  territory  of 
Cassange,  chronological  data,  i.  333 ; 
trouble  caused  by,  i.  346 ;  meeting  a 
caravan  of,  ii.  217- 


36 


Index. 


Bangaloango,  nat.  JErythrina,  h  (?),i.  146. 

Bango,  i.  38,  167. 

Bango,  mountain  of  Cassange,   ii.  11  ; 

ascent  of,  ii.  42. 
Bangueolo,  i.  17,  102. 
Ba-nhaneca  tribes,  i.  112. 
Ban-sumbi,   Otubo    chief  of  the,  i.  76; 

their  sufferings,  ii.  111. 
Banximba  territory,  i.  66. 
Banza,  village  and  sova,  i.  314. 
Banza  e  Lunda,  i.   344 ;    tempest  in,  i. 

346 ;  disputes  with,  i.  347  ;  aspect  of 

the  sova,  interview  with  him,  i.   349. 
Banza  Dalango,  ii.  233. 
Banza  N'Borungo,  territory  of,  i.  247. 
Bao-babs, Malvacea,  nat.  Imbundeiro,  i. 

35,   47 ;   ii.  12,    185,  190,  195,    214, 

225. 
Barraguenho,  rivulet  of,  i.  215. 
Barros,  guide,  i.  20,  70  ;  dismissal  of,  in 

Bihe,  i.  131. 
Basalts  in  the  Serra  Hengue,  ii.  190. 
Ba-songo  people,  i.  108. 
Battue,  grand,  i.  245. 
Batuque  (dance),  description  of,  i.  70. 
Beards,  of  the  authors,  sensation  caused 

by,  i.  83,  114,  169. 
Bees,  i.  95,  197,  214,  230,  359. 
Beisas,  antelopes,  i.  67. 
Belmonte,  description  of,  i.  98. 
Bembe,  road  to  Encoge,  ii.  149. 
Bengo,  valley  of,  ii.  226. 
Benguella,  city  of,  i.  10 ;  description  of, 

i.  11 ;  salubrity,  i.  14;  population,  i.  14; 

trade,    i.  16  ;    departure   from,  i.  20 ; 

southern  track,  i.  21. 
Berengella,  mad  apples  (Solatium  melon- 

gena  or  ovigeram),  i.  366. 
Bernardino  Antonio  Gomes,  his  influence 

in  this  mission,  i.  xxv. 
Bi-cumbi,  wooden  shackles,  i.  143. 
Bihe,  general  description,  i.  102;  district. 

connected  with,  i.  102;  population  of 

102  ;  productions,  i.    103  ;  wonderful 

development  of  vegetation,  i.  104  ;  in- 
habitants, i.   106  ;  traditions,  i.  107  ; 

people  settled  in,  i.  108  ;  women  of,  i. 

110  ;  religion,  i.  112  ;  native  industry, 

i.  115;  capital  and  sova  of,  i.  116; 

people,  i.  103,  191. 
Bihcnos  people,i.  103,  195  ;  iron  trade  of, 

i.  115  ;  mode  of  making  war,  i.  142. 
Bin-bonzo,  sweet  potatoes,  i.  74. 
Bin-bundo  people,  i.  108;  ii.17;  fetishism 

among,  i.  112. 
Binda,  calabash,  i.  83;  ii.  107. 


Bin-delle,    white  men,  i.    83;    strange 

stories  of,  i.  168,  181. 
Birds  of  ill-augury,  i.  234  ;  intheN'guri, 

ii.  214. 
Bi-sonde  ant,  i.  82;  attack  of,  in  the  Bihe, 

i.  118. 
Boar,  wild,  i.  274  302. 
Boat,  Malhet,  i.  312, 345;  human,  i.  332. 
Boceta,  native  box,  ii.  23. 
Boerhavia  sjo.  (?),  i.  371. 
Bombax,  i.  243. 

Bombo,  process  of  obtaining  it,  i.  364. 
Bondo-ia-quilesso,  site  of,  ii.  185. 
Bondos,  tobacco  of,  ii.  27;  entomology  of, 

ii.  28. 
Bongo  serra,  ii.  22. 
Bonze,  i.  167. 
Borassus,   in    Quioco,   i.    224;    in    the 

Hungo,  ii.  88. 
Borbulo,  Mount,  i.  38. 
Brachystegia  tamarindoide,  nat.  ossasa 

and  ucuba,  i.  82. 
Brazza,  M.  de,  ii.  142. 
Bread,  nat.  jimbolo,  i.  365. 
Brig  ham  Young,  African,  i.  265. 
Bucorax  coffer  (?)  in  the  N'guri,  ii.  214. 
Bucephalus  tyj)iis,quile?>go-lenqo,\.'do7 . 
Buchner,  Dr.' Max,  i.  395;  ii.  43. 
Bucusso,  district  of,  i.  93,  102. 
Bucusso,  sova  of  the  Cubango,  i.  93. 
Buffalo,    Bubalus  coffer,  nat.  mpacaca, 

i.  48,  59,  67,  127,  312 ;  ii.  132. 
Bulimus  rucifex,  nat.  t'chiqiiecula,'\.  284. 
Bulo  Jango,  site  of,  ii.  185. 
~Bxim\>a,,Jagga  of  Cassange,  i.  329;  ii.  11. 
Bumbo,  musical  instrument,  i.  62,   88, 

94,  138. 
Bundo  serra,  i.  66. 
Bungo,  ii.  223. 

Bwphaga  erythrorrhyncha,  ii.  215. 
Burseraceas,  i.  45  ;  in  Quioco,  i.  223  ; 

in  Quicongo,  ii.  89. 
Burton  (P.  R.),  Captain,  ii.  247. 
But  a,  Echdina  arietansf  i.  357. 
Butessa,  i.  167,  171. 
Butterflies,  i.  95. 

Cababa,  rivulet,  i.  59. 

Cabaje  Mutomba,   vassal  of  the  Yanvo, 

i.  389. 
Caballo,  cascade,  ii.  199. 
Cabbage,  i.  103,  358. 
Cabeba,    supreme  chief  of  the   Lunda, 

385  ;  mode  of  punishing  his  subjects, 

i.  390. 
Cabenda-Candambo,  village  of,  ii.  152. 


Index. 


OJ/ 


Cabeto,  site  of,  ii.  212. 
Cabindas,  i.  25. 
Cabindondo,  river  of,  i.  30. 
Cabulo,  cataract,  ii.  225. 
Cachellangues  people,  i.  317. 
Cachinge,  serras  of,  ii,  192. 
CacolCalombo,  grottoes  in.  ii.  207 
Caconda,  district  of,  i.  10,  59. 
Caculo- Jabaca,  ii,  164. 
Cadoehe,  river  in  Quioco,"i.  229. 
Cadotcha,  sova  ot'Quiteque,  i.  137. 
Caembe-Camungo,  cataract  of  the  Cassai, 

i.  247. 
Caembo  Muculo,  sova,  i.  389. 
Caengue    (Muene)    lands    belonging  to 

that  sova,  journevs  to,  i.  217,  308. 
Ca  fires,  i.  109. 
Cafnchila,  first  sova  of  the   Hungo,  ii. 

69;  confusion  respecting,  ii.  70. 
Ca-jagga,  title  of  chief,  i.  134. 
Cajingu,  i.  53,  331 ;  ii.  54. 
Calachingo,  family  of  i.  329. 
Oalae,  river,  i.  85. 
Calahari.  desert  of,  i.  109. 
Calala,  i.  387. 
Calumus,  florus,\\.  86. 
Calandula,  sova,  i.  345;  ii.  45. 
Calaei,  title  in  Quioco,  i.  174. 
Calfele,  title  in  Quioco,  i.  174. 
Caluculla,  i.  33. 
Calundo,  track  of,  ii.  191,  207. 
Calunga,  family  of  the,  i.  329. 
Calunga,  or  great  water,  the  sea,  i.  113. 

ii.  162,  196. 
Calunga,  river,  i.  34,  38. 
CWw??^«-Canjimbo,  sova,  ii.  153. 
Calunga  N'bando,  compulsory    present 

of,  ii.  6Q. 
Calunga    (N'dombo  Acambo),    king   of 

Jinga,  ii.  52. 
Caluquembe,  district  of,  i.  48. 
Camassa,  sova  of  the  Quembo,  i.  311. 
Camassamba,   senzala,    road  from  Cha- 

Quilembi,  i.  197. 
Camaxe,  rivulet, a  terrible  mishap  at,ii.]  54. 
Camba,  territory  of,  i.  66. 
Camba,  rivulet,  ii.  141. 
Cambamba,  sova,  i.  314 ;  redemption  of 

a  prisoner,  i.  315. 
Cambamba,  libata  of,  ii.  89. 
Cambambe,  ii.  225,  223. 
Cambaxe,  sova,  ii.  64. 
Cambo,  river,  its  source,  its   course,  ii. 

27,  61. 
Cambollo,  banza  of  Cassange,  i.  316,  335, 

ii.  7. 
VOL.  II. 


Cambolla  (Cangonga),;^^,  ii.  9  ;  ban- 
za of,  description    of    his    residence, 

remarks  upon  the  jagga,  presents,  ii. 

10. 
Cambundi   Catembo,  the  senzala  of,  i. 

331. 
Cameron,  i.  130  ;  ii.  250,  261. 
Camicungo,  river  of,  ii.  38. 
Camoaxi,  river  of,  ii.  38. 
Camp,  v.  Encampment. 
Campanjili     (Muata),    vassal     of     the 

Yanvo,  i.  389. 
Canda-ia-Canzella,  dispute  at,  ii.  58. 
C^Hcfo-ia-Legho,  ii.  50. 
Ccmofa-ia-Lumbombo  in   the  Jinga.  ii . 

60. 
Candanje,  river,  ii.  65. 
Cancfa-ria-Massaugo  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  58. 
Candas  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  53. 
Candeeira,  sova,  i.  155. 
Candimba,  merchant,  i.  16. 
Candumbo,    lands    of,    souives    of  the 

Cunene,  i.  90  ;  senzala  of,  ii.  199. 
Cane  (sugar),  Saccharium  officinalis,  i. 

22,  58,  60,  366  ;  ii.  149, 
Canena  Steatomys  edulis,  i.  68. 
Cangombe,  capital  of  the  Bihe',  i.  116, 

118;  description  of  the  n/C ball a  and 

mu-icanzo,  i.  120. 
Canguanda,  senzala  on   the   Lu-lua,  i. 

247. 
Cangumbe,  Ganguella  libata,  i.  126. 
Canhica  (Muene),  i.  390. 
Canhumgamua,  river,  i.  86. 
Canica,  site  of,  i.  196. 
Cants  aureus  in  the  Minungo,  i.  271. 
Cants  mesomelus  (?),  i.  369. 
Canjamba  serra,  i  301,  308. 
Cannabis  &ativat  i.  334;  its  effect,  ii. 

28. 
Cannibalism,  v.  Anthropophagy. 
Canoes  in  Porto  Real,  ii.  185. 
Cantalla  (Muene),  sova,  i.  187,  191,  311. 
Canunguessa,  market,  i.  17,  102. 
Capaimbo,  senzala  of  Quioco,  i.  160. 
Capambo  (Tabanus),  ii.  19. 
Capanda  track,  via,  ii.  211. 
Capangombe,  i.  81. 
Caparanga,     cataract,    of    the    Cuango 

(Louisa  falls),  i.  274. 
Capata-ieu,  nests  of  the,  ii.  29. 
Capelles  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  53. 
Capitango  in  Quioco,  i.  190. 
Capricornios,  ii.  29. 
CaprimulgidcE,  family  of  the,  ii.  183. 
Caprimulgos  Shelleyi,  ii.  183. 

Z 


OJ' 


Index. 


Capulca,  the  cook,  i.  34.  75,  90,  173, 
308,  347,  351  ;  ii.  30,  55,  80, 180. 

Capullo  Dionzo,  river,  i.  33. 

Caputo,  libata,  i.  87  ;  dispute  with  the 
natives,  i.  87. 

Caquilla,  island  of,  ii.  199. 

Caquinda,  war  in,  i.  95. 

Caravans,  their  mode  of  march  in  g,  i.  77; 
quibucas  and  nbacas  i.  37  ;  meeting 
with,  i.  369 ;  ii.  207,  222. 

Caric a  papaya,  fruit,  ii.  257. 

Carimba,  senzala,  energetic  protest,  i. 
282. 

Cariombo,  river,  ii.  185. 

Carriers,  difficulties  in  engaging,  i.  3  ; 
contracted  at  Novo  Redondo,  i.  9,  24  ; 
death  of  one  i.  240  ;  ii.  151 ;  number 
who  died  on  the  journev,  ii.  157  ;  list 
of,  ii.  160. 

Cassai,  river,  i.  102,  191,  197,  247. 

Cassai,  the  faithful  bitch,  i.  175  ;  her 
pups,  crime  committed  by,  i.  342. 

Cassalla,  mount,  ii.  11. 

Cassange,  i.  200,  district  and  subdi- 
visions, i.  320;  fair,  decline  and  pano- 
rama, i.  321 ;  commercial  activity,  i. 
32^  ;  interior  territories  with  which  it 
is  connected,  i.  322;  climate,  i.  328  ; 
form  of  termite  hills  therein,  i.  329  ; 
jaggado,  reigning  families,  i.  329; 
indecision  at,  i.  335  ;  fever,  i.  336  ;  de- 
finite project,  i.  337 ;  return  to,  i .  373  ; 
troubles  with  the  men  at,  i.  375  ;  last 
day  of  residence  in,  ii.  3. 

Cassango,  senzala,  i.  197. 

Cassanhe,  senzala,  i.  91. 

Cassanje,  cambambu,  diviner,  i.  383. 

Cassanje,  hamlet,  ii.  181. 

Cassanza,  river  of  the  Quembo,  i.  286. 

Cassasio,  serra,  ii.  220. 

Cassia  Occident alis,  nat.  il  stinking," 
i.  275. 

Cassongo-Calombo,  territory  of  that 
sova,  i.  18,  102. 

Cassoque,  village  of,  ii.  222. 

Cassungo  of  various  colours,  i.  8,  393. 

Castor-oil  plant,  Ricinns  communis,  i. 
28. 

Catalla  Canjinga,  lands  of,  ii.  27. 

Catanga,  important  market  of,  i.  17, 
102,  138;  copper-mine  at,  ii.  233. 

Catanha,  territory  of,  ii.  15. 

Catanha,  serra,  i.  49  ;  ii.  15,  27,  55. 

Catao,  chief  of  the  ban-sumbi,  treachery 
and  dishonestv,  protests  and  flight,  i. 
130,  131. 


Catape,  river,  i.  59. 

Cateco,  the  guide,  ii.  50  ;  in  the  Jinga, 

ii.  64;  disputes  with,  ii.  66,  75. 
Catenda,  serras  of,  ii.  192. 
Catende,  district  of,  i.  180,  191,  197. 
Catenha,  mount,  ii.  201. 
Catete,  lake,  Songo,  i.  154. 
Catonga,  site  of,  i.  58. 
Catoplebas  taurina,  antelope,  i.  43. 
Catraio,  the   assistant,  i.  192 ;  night  of 

his  wife,  ii.  4 ;  his  forgetfulness,  ii.  19  ; 

carelessness,  ii.  177. 
Catuchi    (Muene),  sova,  i.  297  ;  aspect 

of  the  inhabitants,  i.  299 ;  tobacco  and 

salt,  want  of,  i.  300;  sport,  i.  302. 
Catucua,  serra,  ii.  64. 
Catuma  Caimba,  sova,  ii,  152: 
Catuma  Cangando,  sova,  ii.  14-9  ;  recep- 
tion and  an  amusing  incident,  ii.  150. 
Catumbella,  district  of,  i.  10. 
Catunga,  senzala,  abundance  in,  i,  257. 
Catupo,  serra,  i.  129. 
Cauali,  river,  ii.  146  ;  basin  of,  ii.  153, 
Caughi,  villa  of,  ii.  212. 
Cauandas,  people  of,  i.  165. 
Caueu,  rivulet,  i.  196. 
Caueu,  son   of  the  sova  of  the  Bihe,  i. 

126  ;  nephew  of  the  sova  of  Quioco.  i. 

176 ;   ballet-daucer,  i.  176,  226,  292. 
Cauris,    Cyprea    moneta,    cowries,    i. 

198. 
Causus  rhombeatus,  nat.  quibolobolo,  i. 

357. 
Cavunje,  river,  vegetation  on  the  banks 

of,  i.  338. 
Caxita,  rocks  of,  ii.  141. 
Cazangaralla,  mu-sumba  of,  i.  388. 
Cazembe,  caquinhata  of,  i.  199,  389. 
Cazembe,  origin  of,  i.  386. 
Cazengo,  ii.  208. 

Celli  or  Celi,  men  of.  i.  24,  248,  337. 
Cemeteries,  i.  160,  214;   in  Cassange,  ii. 

7,  37. 
Cephalobus   mergens,   antelope,   i.    43, 

274. 
Cervicapra  bohor,  antelope,  i.  43. 
Cha-cala,  senzala  of,  ii.  128. 
Cha-Calumbo,  senzala  of,  i.  147,  243. 
Cha-Cassingo,  sova  of  Quioco,  i.  160. 
Cha-Cupinga,    cemetery    in    Quioco,   i. 

160. 
Chaduiji,  river,  affluent  of  the  Cuango. 

i.  252. 
Cha-Landa,  sova,  ii.  38. 
Chalucinga,  i.  33. 
Cha-Massango,  track  of,  ii.  92. 


Index, 


j  j' 


Chamcerops,  fan-pal  in,  ii.  88. 
Cha-Nama,    successor  to   the    State    in 

Lunda,  i.  180,  386. 
Cha-Xende,  sova  of  Quioco,  i.  160. 
Chanfana,    sova,   his    residence    &c  ,    i. 

238;  presents;  i.  239;  death  of  a  carrier 

there,  i.  240. 
Chu-N'ganji,  com  plications,  i.  155,  156; 

pretensions,  i.  157;  his  genealogic  tree. 

i.  158;   visit  to  N'Dumba  Tembo,  i. 

205;  his  reception,!.  297;  flight,  i.  208. 
Cha-Qnessi,  Muata  of  N'Dumba,  i.  160; 

guide,  i.  163. 
Cha-Quicala.  a  traveller,  i.  217. 
Cha-Quimmbe,  senzda,  i.  292. 
Cha-Quilembe,  senzalain  Quioco,  i.  197. 
Cha-Tumba,  sova,  i.  24-7. 
Chella,  serra  of,  i.   33 ;  cataract  of  the 

Cunene,  i.  66. 
Chenopudium  ambrosioides,  i.  284,  371. 
Chiboco.  v.  T'chiboco. 
Cbicondi,  v.  T'chicondi 
Circumlocution,  native,  i.  377  ;   ii.  25. 
Chicapa,  v.  T'chii-apa. 
Children,  reflections    upon    African,    ii. 

167. 
Chili  pepper,  i.  364 ;  ii.  9. 
Chimbarandungo,  sova,  i.  53  —  57. 
Chimbuioca,  i.  94. 

Chingolo,  falls  of  the  Cubango,  i.  93. 
Chromis  mossambicus,  ii.  201. 
Chromis  Sparmanni,  ii.  201. 
Chronometers,  remarks  upon,   ii    205  ; 

immense  value  of,  ii.  206. 
Chinje,  territorv,  v.  Xinge. 
Churasco,  i.  88^  367. 
Cicadas,  nat.  m'banzarala,  ii.  30. 
Citrons,  i.  103. 

Clarias  anguillaris,  bagre,  i.  301. 
Clematis,  i.  82. 

Climatology  of  the  flora,  ii.  146. 
Cloth  (trade),  (coast),  i.    7  ;    wholesale, 

i.  325. 
Coal,  ii.  233,  266. 

Cochlospermum  angolensis,  ii.  214. 
Cocoons,  silk,  ii.  192. 
Coffee,  i.  60;  ii.  266. 
Coje  (Muene),  i.  229  ;  his  exigencies,  i. 
230;  itambi,  i.  231;  batuques,  i.  231. 
Colobus    angolensis,   doubts    as   to    its 

origin,  i.  258. 
Cofobus  palliatus,  i.  369. 
Co/ombolo,  H/wgerrJtis  trito&niaius,  i. 

357. 
Colonization  of  Central  Africa,  ii.  26S. 
Compana  (Muata),  sova,  i.  309. 

Z 


;   Condo,  cataract  of,  remarks  upon,  ii.  203. 

Conga,  i.  169. 
I    Conflagrations,  ii.  136. 
|    Congo,  king  of  the,  ii.  74. 
I    Congo,  system  of  the,  i.  102. 
j    Convolvulaceas  in  Quioco,  i.  224. 
j    Copal  gum,  ii.  266. 
\    Cope,  Mount,  i.  38. 
Copororo,  river  of  S.  Francisco,  Dombe, 

i.  21,  22. 
Copper,  i.  22,  223 ;  ii.  233,  266. 
Cork,  i.  224. 

Goryihaix  paulina,  ii.  30. 
Cosmetornis  vexillarius,  ii.  183. 
Cosmogony  (native),  ii.  158. 
j    Cotton,  i.  23,  60;  ii.  149,  164,  266. 
j    Cowries,    Ct/prea   moneta,  i.  198. 
:    Crane,  i.  67. 

Crocodiles,  i.  67  ;  ii.  157,  186. 
j    Cryptngamicaso  in  Cassange,  ii.  7. 
Cuafo,  river  in  Quioco,  i.  229. 
Cu-amato,  territory  of,  i.  66. 
Cu-ando,.  river,  i.  '61,    102;    stepping- 
stones  or  mupas  of,  i.  63. 
Cuango,  river,  i.  102, 190 ;  sources  in  the 
territory  of   Muene  Quibau,   i.    196  ; 
vegetation    on    its    borders,    i.  243 ; 
sinuous  course,  i.  243,  253, 263,  thorny 
banks,  i.  276  ;  cataracts,  ii.  141. 
Cuango  pequeno,  or  little  Cuango  river, 

i.  299,  304. 
Cuanja,  cataract  of  the  Cubango,  i.  93. 
Cuanza,   i.  .102,  122  ;   origin,  i.  128,  de- 
scription of,  in  N'jamba,  i.  144,  145  ; 
considerations  respecting,  ii.  199;  fau- 
na of,  ii.  202 ;   the  basin  of  the,  a  few 
remarks  upon,  ii.  226. 
Cubango,   river,    course   of  the,   i.  93 ; 

cataracts,  i.  93. 
Cubunje,  rivulet,  i.  58. 
Cucumbi,  river,  affluent  of  the  Cuango, 

i.312. 
Cucus  indicator,  or  honey -bird,  i.  281. 
I    Cu-engo,  river,  ii.  \'l6. 
Cueniruare,  stepping-stones  (mupas)  of, 
i.  66. 
!   Cuj;ho,  river,  discovery  of,  and  source,ii. 
88  ;  dispute  on  crossing,  ii.  90. 
Cugho,  watermen,  ii.  89. 
Cuiji,  river,  southern  limit  of  the  Songo, 

i.  191. 
Cuji,  river,  ii.  35. 
Cuilo,  river,  ii.  69;  disemboguement  into 

the  ( 'uango,  ii.  134. 
Cuilo  munene,  river,  i.  309. 
Cuiine,  river  in  Quioco,  i.  229. 
) 


34o 


Index, 


Cuio,  town  of,  i.  22. 

Cuiques,  Pionias  Meyerii,  i.  358. 

Cuito,  river,  i.  99, 102,  123;  sacrifice  at, 

i.  131. 
Cumaghia  (senzala),  i„  238. 
Cunene,  river,   i.  47,  66;  fauna,  i.  67; 

bridge  over,  i.  90. 
Cunga,  journey  to,  ii.  227. 
Cunga-ria-Cunga,  cascade  of,  ii.  141. 
Cuqueima,  river,  i.  119, 123;  biidgeover, 

i.  125. 
Cuso,  river,  i.  61. 

Cussique,  affluent  of  the  Luando,  i.  160. 
Cutapa  (Muene),  i.  387,  392  ;  ii.  248. 
Cutato,  river,  i.  95. 
Cutieques,  dwarfs  in  the  north  of  the 

Lunda,  i.  248,317. 
Cutota,  rivulet,  i.  51. 
Cuverai,  rivulet,  i.  47. 
Cuviji,  river,  ii.  94. 
Cynocephalus  sp.  ?,  in  Luimbe,  i.  146. 
Cynocephalus  porcarius,  ii.  86. 
Cyprea  moneta,  shells,  i.  198. 
Cyrena  fluminalis,  i.  24. 

JDambis  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  53. 
Dances,  i.  70,  226,  258,  331 ;  ii.  130, 
Danguena,  territory  of,  i.  66. 
Danje,  district  of,  subdivision  of  Jinga, 

ii.  52 ;  sources   of  the  Cauali,  Sussa, 

and  Luando  in,  ii.  146,  153. 
Danje-ia-menha,  site  of,  ii.  221. 
Decamera-tonantis,  ii.  213. 
Deer,  i.  67,  241. 

Dembe  {Mormyrus  Lkuisi),  ii.  204. 
Dembei,  river,  i.  140  ;  a  funeral  near,  i. 

140. 
Dembo  (Naboangongo),  ii.  82. 
Dembos,  lands  of  the,  ii.  154. 
Dendrobates  namaquus,  i.  358. 
Desertions,  i.  24,  131,  144,  292;  ii.  61. 
Diary,  extracts  of,  i.  123,  247 ;  ii.  65, 

66,  103,  123,  136.^ 
Discongo,  banquet,  i.  332. 
Dlscorea  alata  (?)  inhame,  i.  58,  366. 
JJiscoreas,  i.  366. 
Disnas  (huts),  i.  238. 
Ditenda  Yanva,  i.  388. 
D\jango,'\.  238,  300. 
JJjengi,  i.  17. 
D'jindungo  pepper,  i.  364. 
Dombe    Grande,  district   of,   i.  10,  80 ; 

mineralogy,  i.  22;  aguardente  in,  i.  23; 

geographical  position,  i.  24. 
Dombe  Pequeno,  district  of,  i,  10. 
Doiningos  (N  jinji  carrier),  ii.  3. 


Dondo,  ii.  208  ;  arrival  at,  ii.  225. 

Dongo,  subdivision  of  Jinga,  ii.  52. 

Dongolo,  falls  of  the  Cubango,  i.  93. 

B)ti,  i.  7. 

Dove,  i.  67. 

Duque  de  Braganga,  district  of,  ii.  46; 
arrival  at,  ii,  161 ;  position  and  es- 
tablishment, ii.  163  ;  fertility  and 
climate, ii.  164;  departure  from,  ii.  180. 

Drunkenness,  ii.  256. 

Dysentery,  ii.  129,  136. 

Ebande,  Clarias  anguillaris,  i.  301. 

Echdina  arietans,  nat.  buta,  i.  357. 

JEdemonas  on  the  Lui,  ii.  11. 

Egito,  district,  i.  10. 

Eh  !  Eh  !  Oah  !  exclamation,  i.  55^  164. 

Elais,  palm,  ii.  88,  144. 

Elemi,  nat.  mpafu,  i.  223;  ii.  86,  89, 
267. 

Eleotragus  redunctts,  antelope,  i.  314. 

Elephants,  nat.  rijamba,  i.  107,  193. 

Elotarsus,  i  358. 

Empacaceiros,  ii.  215. 

Encampment  the  first,  i.  30;  awakening 
of,  i.  172  ;  ii.  31 ;  construction  of,  ii. 
8 ;  breaking  up  of,  ii.  31,  32;  destroyed 
by  fire,  ii.  173. 

Encoge,  pambo  of,  ii.  149. 

Endoa,  rivulet,  i.  216. 

Entozoario,  noteworthy  specimen,  ii. 
209.  t 

Eonga  in  the  Bibe,  i.  167. 

Eriodendron  anf.,  in  Quicongo7  ii.  89, 
145,  214. 

Erythrina,  i.  45 ;  E.  huillensis,  nat, 
ofuanganga,  i.  82,  146 ;  E.  chriso- 
carpa,  nat.  n'gombe,  i.  82  ;  in  Quioeo, 
i.  224  ;  ii.  214. 

Erythropklceum  guincense,  i.  382. 

Eschinomenes  on  the  Lui,  ii.  11. 

Esponjeira,  Acacia  farnesiana  in  the 
Quembo,  i.  281. 

Ethnography,  ii.  234, 

Euphorbiaceas  in  Quicongo,  ii.  89. 

Euphorbias,  i.  49.  82,  103,  224. 

Euprepes  Ivensi,  ii.  201. 

Euryotis  Anchieta,  nat.  JJnberi,  i.  68. 

Expedition,  remarks  upon  its  organiza- 
tion, &c,  xxiv — xxvi. 

Explorers,  early  days  in  Africa,  difficul- 
ties and  troubles  of,  i.  1,  2 ;  recent 
works  deficient  in  information,  i.  6. 

Extracts  of  the  diary,  v.  Diary. 

Faba,  rapids,  ii.  45. 


Index. 


4i 


Fair,  of  Cassango,  i.  286,  321. 

Farofia,  i.  304. 

Fauna,  African,  ii.  283. 

Feathers,  ostrich  and  marabout,  ii.  266. 

Fendi,  district,  i.  60  ;  mountains,  i.  66. 

Ferns,  i.  105  ;  ii,  5,  11. 

Fetish,    tortoise-shell,    i.    90;    against 

musket-balls,  i.  246 ;  against  rain,  i. 

251. 
Fetishism,  i.  112,  324 ;  ii.  243. 
Fevers,  i.  99,  336,    342,  356,  359;  ii. 

132,  223. 
Ficus  elastica,  i.  339. 
Figueiredo  (Antonio  de),  ii.  58. 
Filippe,  i.  192,  230,  240. 
Finde,  plateau  of,  ii.  147. 
Firing  the  Forest,  i.  277. 
Fiscus  capelli,  i,  358. 
Fish  of  the  Calae,  i.  84;  of  the  Luando, 

i.  154 ;  of  the  Cnango,  i.  301,  339  ;  of 

the  Cuanza,  ii.  200,  204. 
Flea,  Brazilian  (pit lex  penetrans),  ii.209. 
Flies,  honey -making,  attacks  of,  ii.  198, 

212. 
Flora,  climatologic  zones  in  the  Hungo, 

ii.  146;  African,  its  wealth,  ii.  265. 
Fly  (ox),  ii.  19. 
Food    in  West  and  Central  Africa,  ii. 

254. 
Forked  log,  punishment,  i.  362. 
Fortuna,  mu-surabi,  i.  151  ;  ii.  98,  103. 
Fortuna,  river,  discovery  of,  ii.  98;  lost 

on  the  banks  of,  ii.  99,  100. 
Francisco,  the  model  muzumbo,  v.  Mu- 

zumbo. 
Frogs,  JRana  ornatissima,  (highly  orna- 
mented), ii.  205  ;  strange  noise  made 

by,  ii.  5. 
Fruit,  native,  danger  of,  ii.  35. 
Fuba,  manioc  flour,  i.  180;  making  of,  i. 

239;  mode  of  obtaining,  i.  364. 
Fuche-ia-Cacalla,  site    of,    i.  341,   358 ; 

payment  of  a  mu-cano  at,  i.  342. 
Fugeras,  in  Quicongo.  ii.  89. 
Fuma  in  Quioco,  1.  174. 
Fumaranga,  sova,  i.  248. 
Fumbezo,  small  river,  i.  284. 
Funantes,  i.  16. 

Funda,  libata  on  the  Cu-bango,  i.  92. 
Funda-Imbi,  senzala,  ii.  152. 
Funeral,  ceremonies,  i.  140,  379. 
F ungo,  fruit,  i.  224. 
Futa,  territory  of,  ii.  88,  124. 

Galangue,  district,  i.  60,  102. 
Galengue,  Oryx  gazella,  i.  67. 


Gamba,  rivulet,  ii.  19. 

Gandeeira,  sova  of  Huamba,  i.  169. 

Ganga,  rivulet,  i.  33. 

Gangas,  Balearia  regulorum,  i.  67. 

Ganguellas,  i,  93,  102  ;   industry  of  the 

people,  i.  93. 
Garanganja,  i.  17,  102  ;  copper-mine  at 

ii.  233. 
Garanhi,  river,  i.  388. 
Garapa,  native  beer,  i.  35,  58. 
Gazelles,  i.  67,  302,  355. 
Gengi,  i.  102. 
Geology,  i.  21 ;  ii.  231. 
Ginquba,  Anachis  hypogea,  i.   58  ;   ii. 

163,  254,  266. 
Gnats,  i.  95. 
Goitres,  i,  148,  232. 
Gold,  ii.  266. 
Golungo,  ii.  208. 
Gong 6,  fruit,  i.  39. 
Gongolo  (myriapodes),  i.  329. 
Goods,  values  and   qualities  of,  in  the 

interior,  i.  322. 
Goose,  i.  67. 

Gramineous  plants,  i.  354. 
Granite,  i.  32,  43,  217  ;  ii.  214,  231. 
Grasses,  Capim,  Panicum  and  Andro- 

pogon,  i.  224;  ii.  13;  tiring  of,  i.  277. 
Grave,  a  hunter's,  i.  215. 
Greenwich  meridian  adopted,  ii.  271. 
Grus  carunculata,  crane,  wat. panda,  i. 

67. 
Guingas,  rocks  of,  ii.  194. 
Gums,  i.  16,  369. 

JTarca,  game,  i.  375. 

Hal/cet-boat,  Macintosh,  native  de- 
scription of,  i.  312,  345. 

Hallucination,  strange,  i.  374. 

Hamba,  river,  ii.  61,  65. 

Hango,  territory  of  the,  ii.  184. 

Hartmann,  R.,  ii.  250. 

Head-dresses,  i.  80,  111,  369  ;  ii.  54, 
71,  120,  123,  130,  219. 

Heleji,  river,  ii.  191. 

Htmichromis  angolensis,  ii.  204. 

Hemp,  ii.  266. 

Hengue,  serra,  basalts  in,  ii.  190. 

Herminieras  in  Quioco,  i.  224. 

Herminiera  E.,  ii.  14. 

Hippopotamus,  nat.  ixguvo,  i.  67,  274; 
snares  for,  i.  69  ;  death  of  one,  i.  249  ; 
in  Yacca,  ii.  129,  199. 

Ilippotragus  equinus,  i.  221. 

Hippotragus  niqer,  antelope,  i.  67. 

Hives  (bee)  in  Quioco,  i.  197,  281,  359. 


342 


Inch 


ex. 


Holo,  subdivision  of  the  district  of  Cas- 
sange, i.  320  ;  track  of,  ii.  81,  149. 

Honey,  nat.  uitcJii,  in  Quioco,  i.  197; 
fondness  of  the  natives  for,  i.  281. 

Honey-bird,  C Metis-  indicator,  i.  281. 

Honey-combs,  i.  281. 

Horary  in  Duque  de  Braganca,  ii.  162. 

Hottentot,  natives,  i.  xxi. 

Huambo.  district  of,  i.  79,  81. 

Huicumbamba  {Caprimulgo  Shell  eyi), 
ii.  183. 

Huilla,  district,  i.  49,  81. 

Hunga,  port,  ii.  196. 

Hungo,  territory  of  the,  ii.  71  ;  inhabi- 
tants, colour,  he-id-dresses,  ii.  71,  72  ; 
women,  ii.  73;  dwellings,  &c,  ii.  74. 

Hunters  in  Quioco,  i.  214;  visit  to  en- 
campment, i.  217  ;  distrustful,  ii.  108. 

Huts,  i.  96,  198. 

Huta,  bow  of  the  Quiocos,  i.  166. 

Hydromel,  v.  Mead. 

Hvenas,  i.  21 ;  H.fvsca,  i.  271,  358. 

Byplmne,  i.  358;  ii.  88. 

Hypnosia,  disease,  native  names  and  re- 
marks upon,  i.  136. 

Jlyppotragus  equinus,  J\£a-lanea,  i. 
274. 

Hyppolragusniger?  v.dA..palanca,\.27&. 

Ibari  N'Kutu,  ii.  141. 

lea.  i.  167. 

Icollo,  ii.  208. 

Imbarri,  i.  18. 

Imbia,  i.  167. 

Imboa,  boggy  land  in  Cassange,  i.  355. 

Imbundeiro,  v.  Baobab. 

India-rubber,  i.  197,  303,322,  369,  394; 

ii.  16,  89,  215,  266. 
Iiijundi  of  maize  flour  or  manioc  root, 

i.  31,61,75,339,363. 
Inga,  territory  of,  i.  66. 
Inhame,  Discorea,  i..  58  ;  366  ;  ii.  255. 
Instructions,  first  paragraph  of,  i.  xxviii. 
Inundated       plateau,       nat.     anharas, 

anhanas,  \.  85,  93  ;  ii.  11. 
Iron  (magnetic)  i.  47  ;  oligist,  i.  223  ;  ii. 

233,  266. 
Itambi,  i.  26;  among;  the  Ban-gala,  i.  378 
Ivory,  i.  16,  322,  369,  394  ;  ii.  215,  266. 

Jackals,  Canis  aureus,  i.  271,  358,  372. 

Jaggado,  i.  329. 

Jaggas  of  Cassange,  i.  320;  disputes  and 
effects  upon  the  fair  at  Cassange,  i. 
^2L;  their  tyrannies,  i.  330;  cere- 
monies ot  investiture,  &c,  i.  331. 


Jatropha  maniliot,  manioc,  i.  82. 

Jau,  district  of,  i.  36. 

Jimbolamento,  in.  Africa,  i.  179. 

Jimbulo,  bread,  i.  365. 

Jinga,   project  to    cross    the,  ii.  49  ;  the 

road  to,   ii.  51 ;  description  of.  ii.  52  ; 

population,  monarch   and  aristocracy, 

ii.  52,  53. 
Jingas,  pockets,  ii.    54;    habitations,  ii. 

60. 
Jinguengue,  fruit,  i.  366. 
Jinguiji,  river,  affluent  of  the  Cassai,  i. 

247. 
Jinvunji,  fetish  influence,  i.  380. 
Joao  de  Andrade  Corvo,  i.  xxvi. 
Joao  Baptista  Ferreira,  i.  18.  . 
Jose  de  Anchieta,  i.  60,  67. 
Jose  de  Seabra  da  Silva,  ii.  195. 
Jose,  the  guide,  ii.  3,  83  ;  his  system  of 

charnong  a  snake,  ii.  14  ;  his  uncles, 

ii.    35,  183  ;  his  valuable  service,  ii. 

106. 

Kete,  i.  7. 

Kitchen,  novel,  i.  35. 

Lakes,  i.  23,  66,  218;  salt,  ii.  15;  88, 
126,  137,  145. 

Landulphias  in  Qu'congo,  ii.  89. 

Languages  and  dialects,  ii.  248. 

Laula,  rivulet,  i.  126. 

Lazarinas,  fire-arm,  i.  8. 

Lemba  (Mutu's  wite),  ii.  118. 

Lemons,  i.  103. 

Leopard,  Lepardus  jubatos,  i.  67. 

Leucoryoc,  antelope,  ridit.nuima,  i.  67. 

Leva,  river,  i.  58. 

Lhinica  (Muene),  i.  232;  dangers  and 
disputes,  i.  233. 

Liamba,  smoking,  i.  393 ;  ii.  27. 

Lianzundo,  cataract  of,  ii.  45. 

Liba,  river,  i.  102. 

Libata,  v.  Senznla;  description,  i.  61;  of 
the  sova  of  Quingolo,  i.  85. 

Licomte,  i.  16 ;  ii.  266. 

Limes.,  i.  103, 

Limestone,  ii.  231. 

Liniani,  i.  17. 

Lion,  ossi,  i.  58,  47. 

Livingstone,  i.  18,  130;  ii.  190. 

Loanda  /St.  Paul  da  Assmnpoao  de), 
capital  of  Angola,  seat  of  the  govern- 
ment, arrival  at,  ii.  227  ;  reception 
there,  ii.  228. 

Lobenda,  senzala,  ii.  129. 

Locusts,  i.  95. 


Index 


Lombe,  river,  point  of  affluence  in   the 
Cuanza,  ii.  194;  atCaballo,  ii.  207;  do 
Motta,  ii.  207. 
Londimba,  river,  i.  58. 
Louisa  falls,  i.  273. 
Lu-ache,  river,  ii.  65. 
Lu-ajimo,  river,  i.  200,  322. 
Lu-alaba,  river,  i.  102,  199. 
Lu-ali,  river  in  Quioco,  i.  232. 
Luatnba,  territory  of,  ii,  153. 
Luando,  affluent  of  the  Cuanza,  i.   145; 

146  ;    description  and  source,  i.    153  ; 

ii.  157. 
Luandos,  i.  197. 
Luango,  senzala,  ii.  11. 
Luangue,  river,  i.  309. 
Luba,  i.  322  ;  ii.  217. 
Lu-bilachi,  river,  i.  248. 
Lubiza,  i.  ]02. 

Lubbock  (Sir  John),  ii.  243,  216. 
Lubuco  territory,  i-  369  ;  217. 
Lu-buri,  river,  i.  248. 
Lu-calla,  river,  affluent  of  the  Cuanza,  ii. 

45  ;  banks  of  the,  ii.  49  ;  source  of  the, 

ii.  153,  184. 
Lucano,  i.  393. 

Luce,  river,  eastern  limit  of  Quioco,  i.  191. 
Luceque,  district,  i.  66. 
Lu-chilo,  river,  ii.  181. 
Luco,    plant,    employment   of   root    in 

making  beer,  i.  58,  365. 
Lucoquessa,  her  importance  in  the  Lun- 

da,  i.  190,  386. 
Lu-culla,  river,  limit  oftheSongo,  i.  160, 

229. 
Lu-ejime,  i.  247. 
Lu-embe,  river,  i.  200. 
Luena,  serra,  ii.  225. 
Lughias,  ii.  33. 
Luinibe,  territory  of,  i.  144. 
Lu-ioto,salt  liver,  affluent  of  the  Cuango, 

i,  271,  283. 
Lui,  river,  ii.  5.  11. 
Lu-iza,  river  in  the  Lunda,  i.  388. 
Lu-lua,  river,  i.  247. 
Lu-undo,  i.  15. 
Lu-me,  river,  i.  196. 
Lu-nano,  i.  15. 
Lunda,  of  the  Muata  Yanvo,  i.  18,  317  ; 

difficultvof  the  Bihenos in  crossing,  i. 

394;  natives  of,  i.  394. 
Lungue,  division  of  the,  ii.  191. 
Lu-oje,  river,  ii.  147. 
Lu-quengue,  river,  affluent  of  the  Cassia, 

i.  247. 
Lu-quiche,  river,  ii.  126. 


Ma-becos,  Canis  mesomelus  (?),  i.  369. 
Mabel/a,    Hijphcene    guinensis,  i.  53, 

197,  239,  369,  394. 
Mabu,    Papyrus    antiq.,    mats    of,    i. 

197. 
Macaca  Acatumbo,  sources  of  the  Cu- 

lango,  i.  93. 
Macalungo,  road  to,  i.  211. 
Ma-culla,  iruit,  i.  224. 
Macolo,  river,  ii.  132. 
Ma-cosa,  tribes  of  the,  i.  187,  191,  390. 
Macotas,  i.  53,  116,  119.  174. 
Maculo,  disease,  treatment  of,  i.  371. 
Macume-N'jimbo,    territory    of,    source 

of  theCugho,  ii.  88,  224^ 
Macundi,  bean,  i.  366. 
Ma-eunhapamba,  ii.  28. 
Mafungo,  senzaln,  ii.  129. 
Mad-apples,  i,  366. 
Maghia,  arrows  in  Quioco,  i.  169. 
Mahabo,  senzala,  ii.  67. 
^la.hur)go,jagga  of  Cassange,  i.  329. 
Mahungo  people,  ii.  72  ;  surrounded  by, 

ii.  75  ;  discourse  of,  ii.  76 ;   exigencies 

of,  ii.  82;  discussions  with,  ii.  83. 
Maize,  i.  103  ;  ii.  149,  254,  266. 
Malange,  district  of,  i.  323  ;  ii.  38,  191 ; 

return  to,  ii.  207. 
Malavo,  name  given   to   aguardente,  i, 

135. 
JIa-/ibundo9  ii.  30. 

Ma-lunga,  i.  167;  in  the  Jinga  ;  ii.  54. 
Maluvo,  palm  wine,  i.  366 ;  ii.  88  ;  pro- 
cess of  extracting  it,  ii.  144. 
Malvaceas,  i.  367  ;  ii  89. 
Manatus  senegalensis,  mermaid,  ii.  202. 
Ma-ricuha  (ticks),  i.  127. 
Manioc,  Jatropha  manihot,  i.  37,  103  ; 

taste  of,  ii.  26,  254. 
Mangongo,  libata  of,  ii  89. 
Mangos,  i.  77,  348. 
Ma-n'gula,  Dendrobates  namaquus,  i. 

358. 
Ma-numa,  i.  330. 
Mantis,  grass,  ii.  28. 
Maoanda,  libata  in  Quioco,  i.  232. 
Maoungo,  river,  i.  247. 
Mapemba,  river,  ii.  108. 
Ma-puca,  bee  country,  i.  197. 
Ma- quioco,  eastern   designation,  i.   191  ; 

tribes  of,  i.  224  ;  uses,  customs,  &c.  in 

Catuchi,  i.  299. 
March  in  the  dark,  i.  271. 
JIar/anga,  Penisetam  (?)  on  the  banks 

of  Cuango.  i.  243  ;  in  Cassange,  ii.  5, 

124. 


344 


Index. 


Maria  segunda,  beads,  i.  8. 

Market,  nat.  T'chitaca,  i.  84,  197,  389. 

Marimba,  musical  instrument,  i.  62,  94. 

139. 
Marriage  on  the  journey,  ii.  118. 
Marshes,  in  the  Cuango,  ii.  13. 
Ma-shinge  people,  i.  345. 
Ma-songo,  principal  carriers  at  the  fair, 

i.  322 ;  caravan  of,  ii.  16. 
Ma-sosso,  ii.  124. 
Massambala,  Sorghum,  i.    37,  103  ;  ii. 

254. 
Massanqo,   Penisetum    typhoideum,    i. 

103 ;  ii.  254. 
Matamba,  subdivision  of  the  Jinga,  ii. 

52,  71. 
Match imbo,  rivulet,  i.  217. 
Ma-t'chobo,  shaggv,  amphibious  goat,  i. 

129. 
Mateba,  TJyphosne  guinensis,  i.  358. 
Matete,  i.  365. 

Matheus  Gomes  Pereira,  i.  61. 
Ma-tomuzumos  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  53. 
Ma-vuvi,  silk-weaving  spider,  ii.  30. 
Maxim,  i.  339. 
Ma-yacca  people,  ii.  119  ;  description  of, 

ii.  123. 
Mazal  (Muene),  i.  229. 
M'bacas,  caravans  in  Africa,  ii..  18. 
Mbala,  i.  187,  209. 
M'bambu,  JErythrojjlceum  guineense,  i. 

228,  382. 
M'bangarala  {Cicadas),  ii.  30. 
M'boellas  people,  i.  390. 
M'briche,  river,  ii.  149. 
M'chiri,  sova  of  the  Garanganja,  musical 

tendencies,    i.    138 ;    Quioco    road,   i. 

197. 
Mead,    hydromel,    nat.     quingunde,   in 

Quioco,  i.  186. 
Mechow,  Von,  meeting  with,  ii.  223. 
Merionis,  Ai'rie.  rat,  i.  68. 
Mermaid    (Manatus    senegalensis),   ii. 

202. 
Metroxilon,  poles  of,  ii.  93. 
Mica,  i.  21,  43  ;  ii.  233.   _ 
Micendeiras,  sycamores  in  Belmonte,  i. 

98. 
Mieji,  river,  northern  limit  of  the  Quioco, 

i.  191. 
Mienguelecas,  description  of,  i.  367. 
Milongo,  i.  73,  286. 
Minungo,  lands  of  i.  262. 
Missalo,  sieve,  i.  327. 
Missions,  ii.  262. 
Moaza-n'gombe,  river,  i.  248, 


Mocambe,  serr.i,  ii.  232. 

Moenga,  serras  of  the,  i.  162,  243,  308. 

Moi-Chandalla-Dicoata,     female     sova, 

startling  declaration,  i.  237. 
Moles,  i.  68. 

Moma,  libata,  i.  95,  128. 
Mona-N'gola,      denomination      of     the 

Jingas,  ii.  54. 
Mongoa,    sova   of   the    Songo,    i.    148; 

complications,  i.  149  ;    nocturnal  ex- 
pedition, i.  150. 
Monkeys,  i.  146,  241 ;  ii.  86. 
Mornyrus  Lhuisi,  ii.  204. 
Mortality  in  Malange  and  Cassange,  ii. 

37. 
Mossamedes,  i.  81 ;  ii.  229.      . 
Mosquitoes,  attacks  of,  i.  96,270,372; 

mode  of  dispersing  them,  i.  270. 
Moteha,  ancient  Yanvo,  i.  338. 
M'pacaca  {Bubulus  caffer),  v.  Buffalo. 
Mpqfu    in    Quioco,    i.    228  ;     in    the 

Hungo,  ii.  86. 
M'peixe,  i.  167. 
Mpembas  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  54. 
Mpuca,  Quioco,  i.  174  ;  his  discourse,  i. 

178. 
Muaca   (Ilemichromis  angolensis),  ii. 

204. 
Muaji,  oath,  i.  382. 
Mu-anza,  ii.  33. 
Mutfta-Cha-Munji,     vassal      of      King 

N  Dumba,  i.  160. 
Muata-Yanvo,  i.  18,  289.  385. 
Muata,  title  in  Quioco,  i.  160. 
Muavi,  oath,  382. 
Mu-caje,  i.  364. 
Mu-canda,  i.  166. 
Mu-cano.t  fine,  i.  333 ;  ii.  7. 
Mucari,  river,  ii.  38. 
Mucete,  huts,  i.  238. 
Mu-cha,  of  salt,  i.  285,  369. 
Muchi,  small  sticks  to  guide  cattle,  i.  39. 
Muchi la,  i.  14. 
Muchito  in  the  Hungo,  ii.  87;  in  Qui- 

congo,  ii.  94. 
Mu-chinga,  i.  102,  167._ 
Muco     N'gola,     denomination    of    the 

Jingas,  ii.  54. 
Mu-coali,  axe,  i.  392. 
Mucole-Maiale,  senzala,  ii.  152. 
Mucole-Quipanzo,  senzala,. ii.  87. 
Mucuna  yiritriens,  i.  274. 
Mucuna,  river,  almost  lost  in,  ii.  67. 
Mucunha,  sova  in  the  Bihe,  i.  126. 
Mu-curulumbia  mantis,  ii.  27. 
Muene,  lord  in  the  Bihe,  i.  160. 


Index. 


345 


Muene  Cantalla,  sova,  i.  187,  191. 
Muene  Caria.  dignity  in  Quioco,  i.  147, 

190. 
Muene  Congo  Tubinge,  ii.  125. 
Muene    Puto,  name  of  the    Portuguese 

monarch,  i.  133. 
Muene  PutoCassongo,  (Quianvo),  ii.  120. 
Muene-Songo,  ii.  14] . 
Muerficlie  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  54. 
Mn-ghande,  for  fishing,  i.  154. 
Mu-hamba,  i.  10,  74,  369 ;  of  the  Amba- 

quista,  ii.  40. 
Muhamba,  river,  ii.  12. 
Muhungo  in  Quioeo,  i.  228 ;  ii.  141. 
Muhungo,  Jagga  of  Cassange,  i.  329. 
Muhunzo  serra,  ii.  42. 
Muiji,  river  in  Quioco,  i.  229. 
Mulondo,  lands  of,  i.  66. 
Mnluia,  river,  ii.  125. 
Munda,  serra,  i.  33,  38. 
Munda,  senzala,  ii.  153. 
Mundambala,  hatchet  in  Quioco,  i.  167. 
Muntalandonga  (Euprcpes  Ivensi),  ii. 

201. 
Muntimbo,  village,  i.  283. 
Mitpas,  rapids  of  the  Cuando,  i.  63  ;  of 

the  Cunene,  i.  66  ;  of  the  Cubango,  i. 

92  ;  oftheCutato,  i.95  ;  of  the  Cuanza, 

ii.  45,  220  ;  of  the  Cuango,  ii.  141. 
Mussala.  rivulet,  ii.  123, 
Muquiche   in    Quioco,  dress,  dances,  i. 

294 ;  objects,  i.  296. 
3fuquisse,  powder,  i.  318. 
Muropoe,  empire  of  the,  i.  386. 
Mus  ratus,  dorsalis,  and  pumilio,  nar. 

ongueru,  i.  67. 
Mu-sumba  in  the  Lunda,  residence  of 

the  cabeba,  and  position,  i.  385;  mode 

of  constructing,  i.  389. 
Mussombo,  lake,  sources  of  the  Cuanza, 

i.  122. 
Muta,  site  of,  ii.  220. 
Mu-tala,  bedstead,  i.  327. 
Mutemo-Ambuilla,  ii.  153. 
Midi  a,  i.  387. 

Mutombo  Muculi,  sova,  i.  389. 
Mutopa,  i,  166. 
Mutu,  carrier,  fall  into  the  river,  i.  254; 

his  marriage,  ii.  118. 
Mutula,  rapids  of,  ii.  198. 
Mu-iopa,  pipe,  for  the  Liamba,  ii.  27. 
Muzumbo,  interpreter,  i.  188  ;  aptitude 

i.  211 ;  flight  and  robbery,  i.  212. 
Mu-zumbo  Tembo,  first  monarch  of  the 

Songo,  i.  107,  191. 
Myriapodes,  Spirosireptus  gongo/o,  i. 


241;  new  species  found  in  Cassange, 
i.  329. 

Naja  riegricolis,  remarks  respecting  the, 
i.  65. 

Nama-Muene,  i.  267. 

Nanja,  suva,  i.  35. 

Nanos,  v.  Bananos. 

Naoeji,  Yanvo,  i.  388. 

N'baca,  caravan,  i.  37. 

N'bije,  i.  166. 

N'bonzo,  i.  58. 

N'bunda,  language  spoken  in  Loanda,  i. 
15. 

N'bundo,  dialect  of  the  Lu-nano,  i.  15. 

JV'bungo,  wolf,  i.  21. 

JV'burututo,  ii.  214. 

N'cunha,  i.  167. 

N'cusso,  ii.  126. 

N'Dala  Quissua,  Jagga  of  the  Bondos, 
ii.  25. 

N'Dala  Samba,  ii.  35  ;  divisional  line  of 
waters,  ii.  38. 

N'Darnba,  sova,  i.  58. 

N'dengue,  ii.  4. 

N'djabite,  hatchet,  i.  115,  147;  in 
Quioco,  i.  167. 

N'dua,  oath  among  the  Ban-bondo,  i. 
382, 

JV'dtti  (Decamera-tonantis),  as  used  by 
the  natives,  ii.  213. 

N'dulo,  i.  102. 

N'Dumba  Cachilo-chilo,  sova,  i.  292. 

N'Dumba  Mughande,  sova,  i.  292. 

N'Dumba  T'chiquilla,  sova,  i.  211  ;  de- 
scription, i.  304;  his  drunkenness  and 
pretensions,  i.  306. 

N'Dumba  Tembo,  king  of  the  Quioco,  i. 
174;  first  visit,  i.  175;  description,  i. 
177;  his  discourse  ,i.  179;  strange  pre- 
tension, i.  180;  present  sent,  i.  181;  re- 
turn visit,  i.  187  :  a  narrative,  i.  190  ; 
journey  made  in  his  company,  i.  214. 

N'dundje  (Muene),  sova  of  theMissungo, 
i.  257,  332. 

JVenvp/iares  in  Cassange,  ii.  5. 

Nephila  braganiina,  ii.  30. 

Nests,  ii.  29,  214. 

N'gace,  oath,  i.  382. 

N'gami,  inundat  d  plains  of,  i.  93. 

N'gana,  lord,  i.  160. 

N'gana,  n'zambi,  fetish  in  Quioco,  i.  113. 

N'gana,  N'zendo,  sova,  ii.  153. 

N'gando,  sova,  i.  127. 

2V ganga-ia-puio,  ii.  45. 

N'ganga  n'zumba,  sova,  ii.  15. 

N'ganga,  rivulet,  ii.  124. 


46 


Index. 


N'gola,  village,  i.  51. 

N'gola  n'boles  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  53. 

N'gola,  Quituche,  sova,  ii.  198. 

N'golas    (Quilluanjes    Quiassambas),  ii. 

52. 
N'gombe,  Erythrina  eJirisecarpa,'\.  82. 
N'gonga,  family  of  the,  i.  329. 
N'guengue,  libata,  i.  58. 
N'guenzi,  i.  102. 
N'gumbe,  ii,  30. 
JS'yunguachito,  ii.  214. 
N'guri,  district  of,  ii.  13  ;  journey  to,  and 

difficulties  on  the  road,  ii.  14. 
N'guri,  serra,  ii.  11. 
N'guvo,  sova  of  the  Cassai,  i.  247. 
Nguvo,  v.  Hippopotamus. 
N'nangae-ia-Pepe,  ii.  220. 
N'hembas  people,  i.  91. 
N'hongos,  district  of  the,  ii.  220. 
Niangue,  i.  3  8. 

JVicotiana  tabacum  rustica,  ii.  72. 
Niger,  basin  of  the,  ii.  238. 
Nimia,  Luco-em  (?),  ii.  236. 
N'jamba.  elephant,  i.  107. 
N 'jamba,  libata  in  the  Cuanza,  i.  142. 
N'jonubo,  river,  abundance  of  fish  in,  i. 

229. 
Nogueira  (A.  F.),  ii.  245. 
Nourse,  river,  i.  67. 
Novo  Redondo,  district,  i.  9,  10. 
JS'poco  coculula,  i.  167. 
Nu-eele,  falls  of  the  Cu-tato,  i.  95. 
Nunha,  Bibe  village  so  called,  i.  123. 
Nymphaceas    in    Quicongo,    numerous 

species  of,  ii.  89. 
Nymphea  stellata,  nat.  ebangue,  i.  92. 
N'zamba,  falls  of  the  Cuango,  i.  345. 
N'zare,  designation  of  the  Cassai,  i.  247. 

Oath,  among  the  Ban-gala,  i.  382  ;  mode 
of  administering,  i.  383  ;  final  result, 
i.  385. 

Obaba-Tenda,  rivulet,  i.  47. 

Obongo,  natives,  i.  112. 

Odonata,  ii.  28. 

Oca,  a  hundred  men  in  the  Bihe,  i.  134. 

Oeiras,  ii.  233. 

Ofuanganga,  Erythrina  huillensis,  i. 
82. 

Olimbinda,  libata,  i.  141. 

Olococos,  ELotarsus,  i.  3  )8. 

Olumupa,  i.  95 ;  greatest  altitude  at- 
tained, i.  98. 

Ongue,  panther,  i.  21,  214. 

Onguero,  J\Tus  ratus,  dorsalis,  and/w- 
milio,  i.  67. 


Opabanganda,  falls  of  the  Cubango,  i. 

93. 
Oranges,  i.  60,  103  ;  ii.  195,  198. 
OrcJiideas  epidendres,  ii.  89. 
Oreas  carina,  antelope,  i.  43. 
Oriungo,  Rubiacea,  i.  45. 
Oryx  capensis,  gemsbok,  i.  129. 
Oryx  gazella,  nat.  golengue,  i.  67. 
Ossassa,  Brachystegia  tamar,  l.  82. 
Ossi,  lion,  i.  48. 
Otubo,    chief  of  the  Ban-sumbi,  i.  76, 

263;     thievery,    ii.     174;    attempted 

evasion,  ii.  180. 
Ovampo,  district  of,  i.  93. 
Oxen  (saddle),  i.  78,  84. 
Ox-fly,  ii.  19. 

Pacaca  Aquibonda,  division  of  the  Jinga, 

district  of,  ii.  153. 
Painting,  i.  318. 
Palanca,  Rocks  of,  ii.  220. 
Palanca,  Hyppotragus  n.  (?),  orequinus, 

i.  274. 

in  Quicongo,  ii.  110. 

Palm  oil,  i.  394 ;  ii,  266. 
Palm-trees,  ii.  88. 

Palma  christi,  i.  103,  366  ;  ii.  266. 
Pamba  (Atnbaca),  visit  to,  ii.  187. 
Pambo  of  Encoge,  ii.  149. 
Pambos  in  the  Dondo,  ii.  225. 
Panda,  Grus  carunculata,  i.  67. 
Panicum,    variety   of  capim,   grass,  i. 

224. 
Panthers,  i.  21,  67,  275. 
Papa,  serras  of,  ii.  184. 
Papaeira,  Garrica  Papaya,  ii,  257. 
Papyrus  antiquorum,  nat.  mabu,  i.  93. 

243,  354  ;  in  Cassange,  ii.  5. 
Partridges,  ii.  38,  192. 
Paschoal  (Narciso  Antonio),  ii,  3. 
Patrulhas,  ii.  181. 

Pedras  negras,  the  Black  Rocks,  ii.  193. 
Peinde,  district,  parrots  of,  i.  258  ;   back- 
woods, i.  322  ;  lands  of,  ii.  22. 
Pelomys  fallax,  rat,  i.  68. 
Pelopceus  spirifex,  nat.  maribundo,  ii. 

30. 
Penisetum  hyphoidcum,  i.  224. 
Pepper  (chili),  i.  364;  ii.  9,  266. 
Pereira  de  Mello,  governor  of  Bengaella, 

i.  20. 
Pest  o£  the  woods,  fly,  ii.  19. 
Petro,  senzala,  ii.  152. 
Pezo   (Muene),   amusing    intimation,  i. 

243. 
Phacochcerus  etliiup,  wild  boar,  i.  274. 


Index. 


347 


Pharmacies,  allopathic,  dosimetric,  and 
phenic,  i.  73. 

Phasianella  Heddingtonensis,  i.  24. 

Pieapns,  Dendrobates  namaquus,  wood- 
pecker, i.  358. 

Pigeons,  wood,  ii.  38.  192. 

Pine-apples,  i.  44,  103. 

Pionias  JMeijerii,  i.  355. 

Pipes,  nat.  quixibo,  i.  74. 

Pirao,  i.  258  ;  making  of,  i.  304. 

Plantations,  i.  58  ;  ii.  78. 

Plateaux  (inundated),  i.  85. 

Populo,  Diptero,  fly,  i.  52. 

Potatoes,  Sokxnum  tuberosum,  nat. 
ribonzo,  i.  37. 

Potatoes,  sweet,  Convolvulus  batatas,  i. 
58,  74. 

Porto  Real,  ii.  185. 

Praca  Velha,  ii,  187. 

Ptyelus  olrareus,  i.  146  ;  ii.  181. 

Pulex  Penetrans,  v.  Flea. 

Pumpkins,  i.  358. 

Pungo  N'Dongo,  rocks  of,  ii.  190;  geo- 
logical formation,  ii.  194;  noteworthy 
impressions  upon,  ii.  194,  195;  town 
of,  ii.  195;  return  to,  ii.  208 ;  winds 
at,  ii.  210. 

Puva,  Mount,  i.  58. 

Quartz,  i.  21,  22,  43,  135,  217. 

Que,  river,  i.  51,  58. 

Quembo,  district  of,  i.  191,  313;  fauna, 

i.  313;  Portuguese  fair,  i.  321. 
Quendengongo,  sova,  i.  37, 
Quiabos,  Abelmoschus  esculentos,  i.  358, 

367. 
Quiambella,  serra,  ii.  200. 
Quingala  in  the  interior,  i.  373. 
Quiangolo,  island  of,  ii.  199. 
Quianvo    (Muene     Puto    Cassango),    ii. 

120. 
Quibau  (Muene),  his  letter,  i.  193. 
Quibinda,  village  of,  ii.  203. 
Quibolo-bolo,     Causus    rhombeatus,  i. 

357. 
Quibonde,  lake  in  the  Songo,  i.  154. 
Quibucas,  organized  in  Cassange,  i.  37  ; 

in  Africa,  ii.  18. 
Quibundo,  senzala,  i.  197. 
Quicalla,  site  in  the  Bine,  i.  126. 
Quicanga,  senzala  of,  ii.  152. 
Qui  co'os,  ii.  199. 
Quicongo.  district  of,  ii.  88  ;  aspect   and 

vegetation,  ii.  88. 
Quicuba,  ganguella  sova,  i.  126. 
Quicue,  rivulet,  i.  49. 


Quicunji,  falls  of  the  Cuang<~»,  ii.  126. 
Quifanjimbo,  river,  i.  388. 
Quifanjimbo,   internal  lake,   i.    248  ;  ii. 

218. 
Quifucussa,  sova,  ii.  27. 
Qui-jinga  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  54. 
Quilau,  Mount,  in  the  Sambo,  i.  86. 
Quilemba,  i.  18. 
Quilemo,  sova  of  the  Bihe,  i.  116,  120; 

present,  i.  121 ;  visit  and  reception,  i. 

121,  124. 
Quilengo-lengo,    Bucephalus  typus,  i. 

357. 
Quileba  serra,   i.  66 ;   divisional  line   of 

the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  and  Indian 

oceans,  i.  81. 
Quillengues,  district  of,  i.  10,  36;  geo- 
graphical position,  mountains,  &t\,  i. 

36,  37,  38,  39. 
Quillengues,  people,  i.  80 ;  valley  of,  i. 

46. 
QuilJuanjes  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  53. 
Quilolos,  i.  390  ;  ii.  123. 
Quilombo,  v.  Encampment;  of  the  Bihe 

wars,  i.  142. 
Quilulo,  serras  of,  ii.  192. 
Quilul o-n  sandi,  Bihe,  fetish,  i.  112. 
Qwmalanca,  hyena,  i.  21. 
Quimana,  village  of,  ii.  149. 
Qnimangata,  i.  374. 
Quimbamba  (Cosmetornis vexillarius), 

ii.  183. 
Quimbaxe,  river,  ii.  64. 
Quimbimbe,  Fiscus  capelli,  i.  358. 
Quimbombo,  beer,  i.  365. 
Quimbundo,  i.  308. 
Quin-bundo,    erroneous   designation,    i. 

108  ;  idiom  of  the  Bihe,  i.  108. 
Quinbandi,  lands  of,  i.  121. 
Quinbungo  Quiassama,  ii.  51. 
Quinbanda,  medicine-man,  i.  26,  380. 
Quindas,  i.  63,  180,  364. 
j   Quingolo,  district  of,  i.  79,  81,  85. 
Quinqnnde,  mead  of  the  Quioco,  i.  198, 

366. 
Qu/nguri,  banquet  of,  i.  332. 
Qui ni,  i.  167. 
Quioco    (T'chiboco),  notes  upon    the,  i. 

223  ;   flora,  fruits,  i.  224 ;   inhabitants, 

i.  224. 
Quionja,    dwelling    of  the  Coimbras  in 

the  Bihe,  i.  138. 
Quioza,  prisoners  of  war,  i.  97  ;  senzala 

in  the  Cuanza,  i.  97. 
Quipangnla,  site  of,  i.  14. 
Quipundi,  i.  167. 


34» 


Index. 


Quipungo,  district,  i.  48,  49. 
Quipungos,  natives,  i.  52  ;  thug.*,  i.  52. 
Q.uipupa,  chalybeate   water   in,    i.    20; 

geology,  i.  21. 
Quiquanga,  confection  of,  i.  364. 
Quissama,  ii.  215. 

Quissangua,  beverage,  i.  65,  185,  365. 
Quissanja,  small  marimba,  i.  173,  189. 
Quissaquina  Caboco,  falls  of,  ii.  220. 
Quissongo,  military  commander  in  the 

Bihe,  i.  142,  174,  206. 
Quissongo,  chief  of  the  caravan,  i.  132, 

147;  (old)  of  the  Bihe,  ii.  154. 
Quitamba,  Caquigungo,  i.  335,  355. 
Quitandas,  i.  197  ;  ii.  225. 
Quitanguca,  village  of,  ii.  152. 
Quitaxe,  falls  of,  ii.  203. 
Qniteca  N'bungo,  lands  of,  i.  xxix  ;  ii. 

124. 
Quiteque,  site  in  the  Bihe,  i.  136. 
Quitoche,  rocks  of,  ii.  194. 
Quitoeta,  mountains  of,  ii.  201. 
Quituche,  i.  183  ;  ii.  7. 
Quitumba  Caquipungo,  banza,  ii.  12. 
Quitumba,  sova,  i.  317. 
Qui-vuvi,  silk  spider,  ii.  27,  192. 
Quizau  Malunga,  senzala  of,  ii.  88. 
Quizpngamo,  quilolo  of  the  Quianvo,  ii. 

123. 
Quizumene,  mu-sumba  of,  i.  388. 
Quizunguelle,  senzala  of  Quioco,  i.  160. 

Rafts  at  Porto  Eeal,  ii.  186. 

Railway  (Ambaca)  projected,  ii.  189. 

Rainy  season,  i.  104. 

Rauinas,  fire-arms,  i.  8. 

Raphael  Gorjao  (Manuel),  ii.  228. 

Baphia  vinifera,  i.  21,  146. 

Raphias,  in  the  Hungo,  ii.  88  ;  zones 

where  it  exists,  ii.  144,  146. 
Rapids,  v.  Mupas. 
Rats,  i.  67. 
Resins,  i.  223  ;  ii.  89. 
Religion,  i.  112  ;  ii.  243. 
Rhagerrhis   tritceniatus,  colombolo,  i. 

357. 
Rhinoceros,  i.  218;  horn,  i.  221,  394; 

varieties  of,  i.  222. 
Rice,  ii.  266. 

Ricinus  communis,  i.  82. 
Roberto  Franco  (Jose"),  ii.  230. 
Rubiaccas,  in  Quioco,  i.  224;   in  Qui- 


Sa  da  Bandeira,  his  map,  ii.  203. 
Saccharium  officinalis,  sugar  cane,  i.  23. 


Saccostomus  lapidarius,  rat,  i.  68. 

Sala-le,  termites,  i.  95. 

Salt   in  the    Quembo,    deficiency    of,  i. 

285  ;  its  value  in  the  interior,  i.  285, 

300 ;  ii.  266. 
St.  Salvador,  ii.  74,  126. 
Samba,  backwoods  of,  i.  199,  389. 
Samba  Cango,  ii.  183. 
Sambo,  district  of,  i.  79,  91. 
Santa  Maria,  herb,  Chenopodium  ambro- 

sioides,  i.  284,  371. 
Sanza  Manda,  site  of,  ii.  38,  213. 
Scarabeus,  Cleopteros,  ii.  29. 
Schutt  (Otto),  ii.  12. 
Schweinfurth,  i.  112;  ii.  186. 
Scops  capensis,  i.  236. 
Scops  leucotis,  ii.  187. 
Scopus  umbretta,  ii.  214. 
Scorpion,  sting  of,  i.  352. 
Scurvy,    first  symptoms  of,  i.    360  ;  ii. 

221. 
Secula  Binza,  rivulet,  i.  59. 
Seculo  of  the  sova  of  Bihe,  i.  174. 
Senegambia,  country  of,  i.  xxii. 
Sengue,  site  of,  ii.  220. 
Senzala,    villagp,    i.  34;    description  of 

interior,  i.  362;   deserted,  ii.  78. 
Serpa    Pinto  (Major   Alexandre  A.    d  i 

Rocha),  i.  73;  first  news  of  his  return, 

ii.  196 ;    his    opinion  on    inissionary 

labour,  ii.  261. 
Sharpia  angolensis,  i.  358. 
Shells,  cowries,  i.  198  ;  ii.  80. 
Shinge,  v.  Xinge. 
Silk  in  Africa,  ii.  192,  266. 
Silk-weaving  spider,  ii.  27,  192. 
Silva  Americano,  steamer,  ii.  227. 
Silva  Porto,  i.  17,  98. 
Silver  in  the  Jinga,  ii,  58,  233,  266. 
Silverio  (Captain  A),  chefe  of  Duque  de 

Braganca,  his  residence,  ii.  46  ;  dinner 

with,  ii.  165;    his  pets,  ii.  181  ;   adieu 

to,  ii.  212. 
Siminophis  bicolor,  nat.  mu-zuzo,  i.  357. 
Slavery,  ii.  260. 
Snakes,  i.  65  ;  attack  of,  i.  357;   meeting 

with,  fright  caused  by,  ii,  14. 
Soana  Molopo,  i.  386. 
Snuff  among  the  Hungos,  ii.  72. 
Social  relations  of  the  natives  of  West 

and  Central  Africa,  ii.  240,  258. 
Socobala,  site  of,  i.  38. 
Solcmum  melongena,  sp.,  i.  366. 
Soma-catito,  subalterns,  i.  142. 
Soma-i a-can-d j a mba,  sort  of  general  in 

the  Bihc,i.  142. 


Index. 


349 


Sombrero,  Mount,  i.  11. 

Songo,  lands  of,  i.  191,  201. 

Sorq/io,  Sorghum,  nat.  massambala,  i. 

37,  103. 
Sovas,  ceremonies  at  decease,  i.  92  ;  god- 
fathers, ii.  166;  blind,  it.  197,  198. 
Sovetas,  disputes  with,  ii.  38. 
Songanhe,  village  of,  ii.  149. 
Songo,  territory  of  the,  i.  160. 
Sosso,  natives  of  the,  ii.    125,    v.    Ma- 

Sosso. 
Sousa  (Antonio  de),  ii.  227. 
Spaihodea  vampanulata,  ii.  148. 
Speke,  i.  113;  ii.  259. 
Spirostreptus  gonqolo,  ii.  29. 
Spittle,  i.  178;  ii.'l52. 
Spittoon  (royal)  i.  178  ;  ii.  152. 
Stanley    (Henry    M.),    communications 

with,  i.  xxx  ;  i.  130  ;  ii.  229. 
Stanley  Pool,  ii.  141. 
Steatomys  edulis,  nat.  Canena,  i.  68. 
Steel,  native,  i.  115. 
Stork,  i.  67. 

Storms,  i.  96,  298,  346,  359;  ii.  62,  63. 
Stramonium,  Solanea,  i.  36,  103. 
fflrepsiceros  citdu,  antelope,  i.  43. 
Suco-ia-muquita,  cataract  of  the  Cuango, 

ii.  27,  141. 
Suco-ia-n'bundi,  cataract  of  the  Cuango, 

ii.  27,  141. 
Suele,  river,  i.  389. 
Sulphur,  i.  22  ;  ii.  266. 
Su-la  Tebeles,  i.  93. 
Sumbo,  Mount,  i.  38. 
Supa,  pass  of  the,  i.  37. 
Sussa,  province  of  the  Jinga,  ii  52. 
Sussa,  river,  ii.  147. 
Sycamores,  micendeiras,  i.  98,  118,  146; 

in  Ca^sange,  ii.  2. 
Synagris  cornula,  fly,  its   sting,  ii.  19, 
'28. 

Taenia,  i.  13  ;  ii.  22, 163  ;  in  the  Jinga, 
uses  of,  ii.  59,  266. 

Taenia s,  bees  in  the,  i.  359. 

Tala-Mogongo,  serras  of,  i.  191  ;  north- 
western edge,  i.  261  ;  elevation,  i. 
262  ;  ravine  of,  ii.  5  ;  grand  view 
from,  and  vegetation  of,  ii.  22. 

Tama,  serra,  i.  33,  38. 

Tamarinds,  ii.  22. 

Tamega,  gun -boat,  i.  9. 

Tanagra  erythnjrrhyneha,  ii.  215. 

Tango,  river  affluent  of  the  Cassai,  i. 
247. 

Taramanjamba,  i.  33. 


Tattooing  (?),  branding,  i.  317  ;  ii.  219 

T'chabicua,  lands  of,  i.  66. 

TVhiboco,      native       pronunciation     of 

Quioco,  i.  113,  160. 
T'chibungo,  mountains  of,  i.  196. 
T'chica,  tombs  at,  ii.  37. 
T'chicanji     (Muene),   curiosity    of    the 

chief,  i,  241. 
T'chicapa,  or  chicapa,  river,  i,  102,  196, 

247. 
T'chicondi,  orChicondi,  lake,  i.  66,  68. 
T'chigundo,  small  river  in  Quioco,  i.  229 
T'chimbarandungo,    sova,     v.    Chimba- 

randungo. 
T'chimbolo,  bread,  i.  63. 
T'chinbondi,   lake,   in    the    Quembo,  i. 

285. 
T'chinbuvgo,  wolf,  i.  107. 
Tchingando,  leguminous  plant,  used  for 

fishing,  i.  154. 
T'chingolo,   mupas   of  the   Cubango,  i. 

92. 
T'chinguri,  minister  of  the  sova   T'chi- 

quilla,  i.  306. 
T'chininga,  or  Chinhinga,  serra,  i.  48. 
T'chiorola,  river,  i.  81. 
T'chipocama,   or   chipocama,  senzala  in 

the  Bihe,  i.  126. 
Tehiqueeua,  i.  167. 
T chiquecula,  Bulimus  rucifex,  in  Cas- 

sange,  i.  284. 
T'chiquilla,    sova,  v.   N'Dumba   T'chi- 

quilla. 
Tchisanga,  marimba,  i.  77. 
T'chita  territory,  i.  301. 
Tehitaea,   market   in    Quioco,    articles 

met  with,  i.  184 ;  general  description, 

i.  185. 
Telphusa  Anehietce,  ii.  200, 
Telphusa  Bayoniana,  ii.  200. 
Tembo   in  Quioco,    i.    177 ;    N'Dumba, 

Muzumbo,    Cassange,   limits    of  the 

state,  i.  191. 
Tembo  Aluma,  sova,  ii.  27. 
Temo,  i.  167  ;  ii.  65. 
Temperature,  equable,  ii.  270. 
Tenga  territory,  i.  386. 
Termites,     Nevropteros,   fam.    Plani- 

pennos,  i.  95,  51,  81,  329  ;  ii.  30. 
Thugs  (African),  i/  52. 
Tiber,  lake  in  the  Hungo,  ii.  78 ;  medi- 
tations on  its  banks,  ii.  80;  persecuted 

by  thieves  at,  ii.  81. 
Tibesti,  country  of,  i.  xxii. 
Tibu  Tib,  Arab  of  Imbarri,  i.  18,  318. 
Tiger  Bay,  ii.  232. 


5o 


Index. 


Tipoia,  palanquin,  i.  21;  ii.  178;  danger 

in  using,  ii.  191. 
Tito  (Pedro  de  Almeida),  ii.  229. 
Tiue,  i.  33. 

Toads,  noise  made  by,  ii.  6. 
Toaza  or  Tuaza,  falls  of  the  Cuango,  i. 

345  ;  ii.  141. 
Tobacco,  i.  103, 300,  358;  ii.  27, 149, 164, 

266. 
Toccus  elegaws,  i.  236. 
Tomatoes,  i.  358. 
Tongo,  fruit,  i.  224. 

Trade,  tendency  of  the  natives  to,  ii.  17. 
Transvaal,  country  of  the,  i.  xxii. 
Tribes,  migration  of,  ii.  236. 
Tui,  rivulet,  i.  34. 
Tumba,  lake,  i.  23. 
Tunda,  backwoods  of,  i.  337. 
Tundo,  fruit,  i.  224. 
Tundo,  sova,  i.  247. 
Tungo  N'Dony:o,  mountain,  ii,  42. 
Typhus    in    Quioco,    i.    224 ;     on    the 

Cuango,  i.  243  ;  in  Cassange,  ii.  5. 

Vdlua,  beer,  mode  of  manufacturing,  i. 

365. 
Ucha,  fruit,  i.  49. 

Ucuha,  Brachystegia  tamar,  i.  82. 
Uitcki,  honey',  i.  197. 
TJlemba,  Z^rticacea,  i.  49. 
Ulondo,  serra,  of  the  Huambo,  i.  79,  85* 
Ulua,  territory  of,  i.  18. 
Umba  (Domingos'  innamorata),  ii.  4. 
Umenganga,  fruit,  i.  49. 
Unberi,  Murotys  Anchieta,  i.  68. 
Undado  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  54. 
JJnga,  flour  in  Quioco,  i.  309. 
Unguiji,  river,  ii.  108. 
Unicorn,  abbuda,  i.  16. 
Uonde,  hive,  i,  197. 
TJpanda,  i.  7. 
Vrglnea  sp.  (?)  i.  283. 
Ussamba,  acacia,  i.  49. 
Usserem,  river,  i.  58. 
Ussolu,  Urticacea,  i.  49. 
Ula,  ii.  14. 
II tumba,  immense  bog,  a  fall  into,  ii.  34. 

Vaseo  Guedes  de  Carvalho  e  Menezes,  ii. 

227. 
Veado,  Cephalobus  mergens  (?),  i.  43, 274. 
Vegetation,  rapid  development,  i.  104. 
Venus,  African,  i.  147. 


Victorias  in  Cassange,  ii.  5. 
Viduas  paradiseas,  ii.  183. 
Vine,  wild,   Vitus  hcraeltfolia,  i.  82;  ii. 

255. 
Vissecua,  serra,  i.  34,  38,  42. 
Von  Mechovv,  v.  Meehow. 
Vvoida-'m-ByitaJn  the  Jinga, ii.  64; sova, 

ii.  154;  value  of  human  life  there,  ii. 

156. 
Fttw«fa-ia-Cassanda,  ii.  167. 
Vu  /ofa-ia-Ebo,  burial  at,  ii.  157. 
F^efo-ia-Mequenna    in  the    Jinsra,    ii. 

74. 
F&nofo-ia-N'golaQuilluanjein  the  Jinga, 

ii.  64. 
FwWa-ia-T'chirimbimbe,  ii.  166 
Fww^a-ia-Vunda-N'gola,  important  sova, 

ii.  153. 
Vundas  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  53. 
Vunji,  serra,  ii.  185. 

Walrus'  teeth,  i.  16. 

Water,  ferruginous,  Quipupa,  i.  20. 

Wolves,  i.  21,  107,  340,  358, 

Wax  (bees),  i.  16,  197,  224,  322,  369 ; 

ii255. 
Woodpecker    {Dendrobates  namaques), 

nat.  Ma^ngtda,  i.  358. 
Women  of  the  caravan,  ii.  81,  116. 

Xylojphages,  ii.30. 

Xinge  (Shinge),  territory  of,  ii.  22. 

Yacca,  territory  of,  limits  of  exploration, 
i.  xxix ;  information  respecting  its 
people,  customs,  &c,  ii.  131. 

Yanvos,  their  states,  dynasty,  i,  386  ; 
ceremonies,  i,  318. 

Yondo,  district  and  subdivision  of  the 
territory  of  Cassange,  i.  320 ;  moun- 
tains, i.  313. 

Yula,  rivulet,  i.  304,  308. 

Zamba,  cataract,  ii.  141. 

Zambese,  valley  of  the,  i.  91,  102. 

Zebras,  i.  67. 

Zombo,  serras  of,  ii.  126. 

Zuala-mavumo,  tribes,  i.  248. 

Zitarte,  cloth,  i.  7. 

Zumbi,  i.  26. 

i^njc/o-ia-Cassungo  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  60. 

Zundo-ia-Faco,  ii.  49. 

Zttndos  in  the  Jinga,  ii.  53. 


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