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III 


5Mtu;H?<;<M;^H 


FRANZ    LFXOUVRKTTR    IN    APRIL,    1851. 

Copied   from    Oil-painting. 


From  East  Prussia 
to  the  Golden  Gate 

BY 

Frank  Lecouvreur 


LETTERS    AND    DIARY    OF    THE   CALIFORNIA   PIONEER, 

EDITED  IN  MEMORY  OF   HER   NOBLE   HUSBAND, 

BY  MRS.  JOSEPHINE  ROSANA  LECOUVREUR 


TRANSLATED  AND  COMPILED  BY 

JULIUS    C.    BEHNKE 

Professor  of  Modern  Languages,  Occidental  College,  Los  Angeles,  Cal. 


NEW   YORK    AND   LOS    ANGELES,    CAL. 

ANGELINA  BOOK  CONCERN 


GENERAL  AGENCY  FOR    EUROPE 

LEIPZIG 

BUCHHANDLUNG    GuSTAV    FoCK 

G.   m.   b.   H. 

1906 


48827 


Copyright,  1906, 

BY 

MRS.  JOSEPHINE  ROSANA  LECOUVREUR 


MANUFACTURED 

BY    G.    T.     ROWLAND 

258-60   FIFTH  AVE. 

NEW  YORK 


K 


\<o 


F 


TO  THE  READER. 


Many  a  book  seems  worth  while  reading, 
Though  you  give  it  but  one  call. 

Mark!   Unless  it  bears  re-reading 
It  should  not  be  read  at  all. 

Lives  of  self-made  men  are  ever 
Full  of  healthy  food  for  minds 
Of  ambitious,   honest  toilers: 

*'He  who  seeks  is  he  who  finds!" 

May  this  book  go  forth  and  cheer  you. 

And  when  courage  ebbs  away, 
Take  the  noble  author's  motto: 

''Try  again!     Be  firm  and  stay." 

J.  C.  B. 

^^^•'  May,  1906. 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Preface  xi 

LETTER  I 

Voyage  from  Konigsberg  to  Berlin  in  1851. — Berlin:  Its  custom- 
house, Principal  Thoroughfares  and  Passing  Impressions 15 

LETTER  II 

(Dated  Hamburg,  1851). — The  Author's  Early  Activity. — ^March  Rev- 
olution Described  by  Prince  Frederic  William,  later  Emperor  of 
Germany. — Berlin:  More  Impressions. — Visit  to  the  Captain  of  the 
March  Revolution  in  1848. — Friedrichshain,  the  Resting-place  of 
Fallen  Revolutionists. — Voyage  from  Berlin  to  Hamburg. — Ham- 
burg and  the  Hamburg  People. — The  Harbor. — The  Exchange. — 
Suburb  St.  Pauli. — Stintfang. — Churches. — General  Architecture. — 
City  Walls. — The  Alster  and  the  Jungfernstieg. — Extract  from  an 
Interesting  San  Francisco  Letter     29 

LETTER  III 

The  "Victoria." — Shipping  of  Emigrants. — Embarking  of  German 
Soldiers  for  Brazil. — The  "Hamburger  Berg." — Altona. — The 
Celebrated  Graves  at  Ottensen. — Rainville. — Places  of  Amusement. 
— Blankenese,  the  Gate-keeper  of  the  Elbe. — Tenement  Fires. — 
Primitive  Fire  Department. — The  Conflagration  of  1842  and  the 
Hero  of  St.  Nicolas. — Annual  Floods. — Sewer  System.' — A  Ham- 
burg Funeral  Procession. — Humorous  Criticism. — The  "Citizens' 
Guard"  of  Precious  Memory. — 'Hamburg  Legends. — The  Visit  of 
the  Wandering  Jew  in  1547. — Cosmopolitan  Life. — Gomez  de 
Mier. — The  "Glass   Arcades." 50 

LETTER  IV 

On  Board  of  Bark  "Victoria,"  ofif  Hamburg. — First  Impressions  of  new 

Surroundings. — Slow  Progress. — Pentecost. — Life  on  Board 73 

LETTER  V 

The  Ocean  Voyage. — First  Efifects  upon  Steerage  Passengers. — Bill 
of  Fare. — The  British  Coast. — The  Channel. — Bay  of  Biscaya. — 
Gibraltar. — Madeira. — Flying  Fish. — Whales — Northern  Tropic 
Circle. — Between   Two   Heavens. — The   Calm. — Thunderstorm   on 


vi  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Mid-ocean. — 'Ships  that  Passed. — The  "Neptune"  Farce. — An 
Ocean  Burial. — The  Brazilian  Coast. — Meditations  of  a  Passen- 
ger.— Cape-doves  and  Other  Birds. — Birth  of  a  Boy. — Heavy 
Storms  Around  the  Cape  follow  the  Approach  of  "Mother  Carey's 
Chickens." — The  Coast  of  Fireland. — Picturesque  Views. — Bay  of 
Good  Success.^ — Marvelous  Sceneries. — Six  Sketches. — Strait  Le 
Maire. — Narrow  Escape. — Shipwreck. — Cape  Deceit. — Hermit  Is- 
lands.— Ramirez  Islands. — The  Archipelago  of  the  South  Sea. — 
Scant  Meals. — Another  Disappointment. — Cape  San  Carlos. — Fort 
Corral. — Chile. — Valdivia. — A  Tramp  through  Virgin  Forests. — 
Bare-footed  Militia. — Fortifications. — Indians. — Volcanos 81 

LETTER  VI 

The  Valley  of  Paradise. — People  and  Politics. — On  Board  the  "Au- 
rora."— Better  Bill  of  Fare. — A  Leak. — Undesirable  Ship-mates. — 
Loads  of  Gunpowder. — Trade  Winds. — Long  Calms. — Air-castles. — 
Minute  Nautical  Record 154 

LETTER  VII 

The  Farallones  Cliffs. — Punta  Clara. — San  Francisco. — American  Soil! 
An  American  City. — Everything  for  a  "Purpose." — Strange  Archi- 
tectural Mixtures. — Cosmopolitan  People.' — Road  Building. — Sand 
Hills. — Progress  Everywhere.  —  Wharf  Building.  —  Water-front 
Scenes. — 'Strange  Bridge-building. — Possibilities. — Shipping. — The 
People  of  the  Western  Mertopolis. — Erroneous  Impressions 
Abroad. — The  Work  of  the  Vigilance  Committee  in  1851. — First 
Hanging. — Municipal  Inactivity. — The  Rope  Route. — Exile  of  For- 
eign Criminals.— Struggles  with  Legal  Authorities.' — Kidnapping 
of  Condemned  Criminals. — Recapture. — End  of  a  Reign  of  Ter- 
ror.— Western  Business  Methods. — Americans  Like  the  Industrious 
Germans. — Gambling  Houses. — The  American  Press. — Prospects. — 
Living. — Mmers,  as  I  Meet  Them. — Strolls  in  the  Vicinity. — 
Mexican  Herders  170 

LETTER  VIII  * 

Mining  Experiences  near  Long  Bar  on  the  Yuba  River. — California. — 
Description  of  Virgin  Lands  and  Forests,  Primitive  Mining  Im- 
plements.— Life  in  Mining  Camps. — Outfit  of  the  Typical  Miner. — 
Indians  and  Tlieir  Habits  in  These  Regions. — Mexican  Muleros. — 
Strange  Tourists. — Ox-team  Journey. — Snakes.  —  Newly-made 
Friends. — The    Snow-line. — 'Hard    Traveling. — A    Wet    Camping 


*This  letter  was  translated  years  ago  by  the  late  Dr.  Theodor  Wollweber,  an  intimate 
friend  of  the  author. 


CONTENTS  vii 

PAGE 

Ground. — Grass  Valley  at  Last. — A  Deserted  Tavern.— Our  Log 
House  on  Nelson  Creek.— Up  Hill  and  Down  Hill. — A  Family- 
Memorial  Day.— Animal  Life  in  the  Mountains. — Actual  Work. — 
Independence  Bar. — The  Transformation.— Prices  of  Eatables 20-1 

LETTER  IX 

Inclemency  of  Weather  in  the  Mining  Districts  and  Its  Efifects. — 
Various  Experiences. — Game. — American  River-steamers. — Trip  to 
Sacramento. — The  Capital. — Back  to  San  Francisco. — Wonderful 
Improvements. — The  Wharves  and  the  Daily  Happenings. — A  Re- 
markable Incident,  Showing  the  Superiority  of  American  Ship- 
building.— Cholera  Cases. — Something  More  About  the  Indians. — 
Resolutions.— Diary  Notes.— Struggles  for  the  Daily  Bread.— Ex- 
pressman No.  107. — Hotel  Waiter 258 

LETTER  X 

The  First  Alameda  Boom  in  18.53.— A  Typical  Western  Real  Estate 
Deal  of  Early  Days. — Philanthropist  Chipman. — An  Honest 
Man. — Superiority  of  the  American  Press. — Americans  Ahead. — 
San  Francisco's  Upbuilding. — Great  Shipping  Facilities. — Proud 
of  America. — Ups  and  Downs. — Strange  Things  Happen. — Success 
for  the  Worker  Assured.— Current  Coins  in  1853.— Godefroy's 
Secret.— Baron  von  Schrocdcr's  Gulden. — Tit  for  Tat 279 

LETTER  XI 

Christmas  in  Childhood  Days.— Dreams.— Etoubleau  Sells  Out.— The 
Journeyman  Painter. — Diary  Notes. — Sylvester  Dreams. — Mexican 
Settlers.  —  Missions.  —  Medieval  Architecture. — Watsonville. — A 
Berlin  Dragon.— Shipwreck.— A  Narrow  Escape. — Cape  Bonita, 
a  Dangerous  Rock. — Help 293 

LETTER  XII 

Meditations.— A  Treat.— An  Orange  Speculation.— German-American 
Press.— Diary  Notes :  Trip  to  San  Pedro.— The  "City  of  Angels."— 
Distasteful  Employment.— Assaulted  for  Righteous  Opposition.— 
The  Carriage  Painter.— Debts  Paid.— Flagman.— Compass-man.— 
Assistant  Deputy  County  Surveyor. — Desert  Survey. — Catalina 
Island  in  1856.— San  Pedro. — Anaheim,  a  Settlement  of  Stock- 
holders.—Wilmington.— Clerkship.— Politics.— The  Quarrel.— Lion- 
ized in  Los  Angeles.— Appointed  Deputy  County  Clerk.— The  Ex- 
plosion of  the  S.  S.  "Ada  Hancock."— Horrors  at  Wilmington.— 
Local  Coal  Oil  Wells  Discovered  in  1865.— Back  to  San  Fran- 
cisco.—At  Wertheimer's.— A  Friend's  Transition.— Friendly  Turns. 
— Off  for  Europe. — Farewell  Parade  at  Los  Angeles 303 


viii  CONTENTS 

LETTER  XIII  „._ 

PAGE 

The  Trip  via  Panama. — Unpleasant  Crossing. — Cuba. — New  York. — 
Baxter-street. — Chinatown. — Churches  and  Seats  of  Learning. — 
Newark. — Valley  of  the  Delaware. — Buiifalo. — Niagara  Falls. — The 
Lakes. — Goat  Island. — Three  Sisters. — Nature's  Divine  Revela- 
tion.— Return  Trip  to  New  York. — Cheap  Traveling. — The  "Cim- 
bria." — Transatlantic  Scenes. — Hamburg. — Home  Again. — In  Time 
for  the  Father's  Funeral. — Return  to  America. — Grabow. — Ham- 
burg Once  ]More  ! — Excursions. — Claudius. — Circus  Renz. — Neil's. — 
Rudecindo  Roche   322 

LETTER  XIV 

Back  in  New  York. — Earthquakes  in  San  Francisco. — Western  News. — 
Motthaven. — Tremont. — Blackwell's  Island. — Manhattan  College. —  , 
Return  to  California. — Harbor  Scenes  in  Romantic  Panama. — 
Human  Sardines. — Coast  Scenes. — Acapulco  and  Its  People. — 
Lower  California. — Stars  and  Stripes  Welcomed. — San  Francisco 
Once  INIore. — Bound  for  Los  Angeles. — Laura  Bevan. — Survey- 
ing.— Wedding  Bells. — Politics. — County  Surveyor    336 

Diary  and  Notes 

Los  Angeles  Vigilance  Committee. — Chinese  Massacre. — Notes  on  the 
Franco-German  War. — Education. — New  Era. — Sudden  Illness. — 
Long  Suffering. — The   End 339 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Pcnsketchcd  by  the  Author  in  Passing. 

PAGE 

Portrait  of  the  Author  in  1851 Frontispiece 

The  French  Coast  of  Calais 75 

Hamburg  Bark  "Victoria,"  Captain  J.  Mej-er 83 

Coast  of  Fireland  near  Cape  St.  Vincent 115 

Snow-capped  Northern  Coast  of  Fireland 117 

Another  Scene  near  the  Cape 119 

A  Long  Mountain  Chain  Including  Cape  St.  Vincent 121 

Cape  San  Diego 123 

Cape  Good  Success 125 

San  Diego,  Ramirez  Islands 129 

The  Storm-beaten  Bark  "Victoria" 129 

Harbor  Beach  of  Corral 131 

Village  of  Corral  in  Chile 133 

The  Old  Fort  Corral 135 

Landing  in  Corral 137 

Map  of  the  Feather  and  Yuba  River  Mining  Districts 206 

Log  Cabin  at  Nelson  Creek 243 

"La  Soledad"  309 

Mohave  Swamp 311 

Scene  in  the  Mohave  River 313 

Scene  from  the  River  of  the  Plains 315 

The  Author  in   Manhood 339 

Mrs.    Lecouvreur 349 


IX 


PREFACE 


When  the  late  Frank  Lecouvreur  left  his  native  land  in 
1851  for  California,  leaving  behind  him  his  parents  and 
the  dear  friends  of  his  youth,  following  the  promptings  of 
his  large  heart  he  kept  a  careful  journal  of  the  sights  and 
the  unusual  experiences  that  were  his  in  travel,  and  in 
the  new  land  he  had  chosen  as  a  field  for  his  activities. 
After  his  death,  which  occurred  January  17,  1901,  in  Los 
Angeles,  Califoniia,  it  was  found  that  this  journal  and 
the  letters  covering  the  period  of  absence  from  his  native 
home  had  been  carefully  preserved  by  members  of  his 
family  to  whom  they  were  addressed  and  it  seemed  to  his 
wife  and  friends,  that  while  these  letters  were  often  of  a 
nature  such  as  would  be  written  only  to  one's  intimates, 
and  were  frequently  expressions  of  the  innermost  feel- 
ings of  the  man,  yet  because  the  record  of  such  a  life 
could  not  but  be  helpful  to  others,  and  especially  to  young 
men  in  whose  training  and  development  Mr.  Lecouv- 
reur was  ever  deeply  interested,  his  widow  has  consented 
to  the  publication  of  these  letters  and  the  journal  in  a 
form  that  could  be  distributed  among  his  friends.  Iden- 
tified from  the  beginning  with  the  public  life  of  Los  An- 
geles, it  is  fitting  that  a  brief  sketch  of  his  activities  and 
accomplishments  should  preface  these  letters. 

Frank  Lecouvreur  was  born  in  Ortelsburg,  Prussia, 
June  7,  1829,  and  was  christened  Theodor  Maximilian 
Ferdinand  Franz  Lecouvreur,  his  father  being  of  French 
nativity,  while  his  mother  was  the  accomplished  daugh- 
ter of  Mayor  Minuth  of  Bartenstein,  East  Prussia. 

Happily  born,  and  of  an  ancestry  that  combined  na^ 
tional  as  well  as  personal  characteristics,  young  Lecouv- 
reur's  childhood  was  spent  in  an  environment  that  could 

xi 


xii  PREFACE 

but  develop  an  exceptional  character.  He  received  a 
thorough  education  as  a  civil  engineer,  and  became  as 
well  a  fine  linguist.  Acquiring  liberal  ideas  and  having 
inherited  a  predilection  for  a  larger  liberty  he  resolved, 
upon  attaining  his  majority,  to  migrate  to  the  great  re- 
public of  the  New  World  and  to  visit  California,  going 
by  way  of  Cape  Horn.  His  letters  cover  this  period  of 
his  life  very  fully,  and  detail  his  voyage  and  experiences 
in  the  then  undeveloped  country. 

A  man  of  culture  and  refinement,  artistic  sensibilities, 
and  a  keen  observer,  of  warm-hearted  and  religious  tem- 
perament, it  was  not  remarkable  that  he  became  at  once 
closely  identified  with  the  best  life  of  the  New  California. 
Arriving  in  Los  Angeles  in  1855  he  was  made  deputy 
county  clerk  for  three  years  and  thus  at  once  became  of 
public  sei^'ice  to  his  chosen  country.  Later  he  ser\^ed  as 
a  deputy  of  Major  Henry  Hancock,  the  county  surveyor, 
under  whom  the  celebrated  *' Hancock's  Survey"  was 
made. 

Subsequently  he  sei'^^ed  two  terms,  of  two  years  each, 
as  county  surveyor,  during  which  he  made  many  very 
important  surveys  for  the  county.  It  fell  to  him  to  par- 
tition for  the  Verdugo  family,  one  of  the  oldest  and 
wealthiest  of  Spanish-California,  the  rancho  ''San 
Eafael"  of  44,000  acres,  or  eleven  Spanish  leagues,  being 
one  of  four  of  the  oldest  grants  from  the  King  of  Spain, 
in  Alta  California. 

Declining  the  offer  of  a  third  term  as  county  surveyor 
he  retired  from  public  office  and  assumed  the  responsible 
position  of  cashier  of  the  Farmers'  and  Merchants'  Bank, 
in  which  corporation  he  was  also  a  director. 

In  June  of  1877  he  was  married  to  Miss  Josephine 
Eosana  Smith,  and  after  a  trip  to  Europe  to  visit  his  fam- 
ily, j\Ir.  and  Tslrs.  Lecouvreur  returned  to  Los  Angeles  to 
make  here  their  pennanent  home.  In  1886  a  serious  ill- 
ness caused  a  general  decline  in  Mr.  Lecouvreur 's  health 
and  he  retired  from  active  business. 

This  eminent  civil  engineer,  accomplished  scholar,  de- 
voted husband  and  man  of  exalted  ideals,  gave  to  his 


PREFACE 


Xlll 


adopted  city  the  best  years  of  liis  life,  and  was,  in  every 
respect,  a  useful  and  esteemed  citizen.  Tlie  esteem  in 
which  he  was  held  by  his  fellow  citizens  wa&  manifested 
by  the  great  concourse  which  attended  his  funeral,  among 
whom  were  the  most  eminent  men  of  the  city.  Mr.  Lecou- 
vreur  left  no  children,  but  was  survived  by  his  wife,  who 
had  co-operated  with  him  in  all  the  later  benevolences  of 
his  life,  and  Avho  has  edited  this  book  in  the  hope  that  it 
might  inspire  and  help  the  young  men  of  the  present 
day.* 


*This  preface  is  a  welcome  contribution  from  the  able  pen  of 
Henry  D.  Barrows,  the  veteran  pioneer,  whose  name  is  insep- 
arable from  the  History  of  Southern  California. — Translator, 


FROM  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE 
GOLDEN  GATE 


LETTER  NO.  I 


Berlin,  April  28,  1851. 
My  Dear  Parents:  You  will  know  by  this  time  that 
my  first  voyage  terminated  as  expected.  Hardly  a  breath 
of  air  curled  the  surface  of  the  Baltic  Sea,  which 
stretched  before  us  like  a  mirror  when  we  set  sail  on  our 
long  voyage,  about  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  on  board 
the  steamer  ' '  Konigsberg, "  Capt.  Eybe.  The  air  was 
not  clear  enough  yet,  to  distinguish  any  attractions  of 
the  coast  from  Pillau  to  Bruesterort,  which  place  we 
lost  sight  of  by  eleven  o'clock.  Slowly  but  surely  the 
outlines  of  our  native  coast  disappeared  from  our  view, 
until  even  the  last  visible  strip  of  the  continent,  the  high- 
land near  Elbing  had  sunk  below  our  horizon  like  a  faint, 
blue  cloud.  I  realized  that  we  were  on  the  high  sea. 
Softly  rocking  the  ' '  Konigsberg ' '  went  on  her  way,  while 
the  long  drawn  and  slowly  departing  clouds  of  smoke 
carried  with  them  my  last  greetings  toward  home!  It 
was  a  strange,  indescribable  feeling  which  took  hold  of 
me,  when,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  I  saw  nothing 
around  me  but  sky  and  water.  Yet,  I  felt  so  well,  my 
heart  felt  so  at  ease,  and  at  that  very  moment,  it  seemed 
as  if  the  following  words  were  clearly  written  upon  my 
soul:  *'Thy  resolution  was  well  taken,  thou  hast  done 
the  proper  thing. ' '  And,  perhaps  for  the  first  time  in  my 
life,  I  felt  happy  and  contented.  About  half-past  twelve, 
the  lighthouse  of  Stela  came  in  sight.  We  overtook  a 
whole  fleet  of  ships  coming  from  Pillau,  and  as  they  were 

15 


16  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

mostly  within  speaking  distance,  it  gave  me  quite  an  en- 
tertainment. I  counted  two  brigs,  eleven  schooners,  two 
sloops,  four  yachts,  all  under  full  sail,  when  we  overt;ook 
them,  one  by  one.  Though  we  were  but  three  German 
miles  from  Stela,  we  could  recognize  but  very  little,  as 
most  points  of  that  vicinity  are  very  low.  The  coast  does 
not  rise  until  one  reaches  Rieserhoft,  the  high  tower  of 
which  we  passed  about  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  at 
a  distance  of  nearly  four  miles  and  a  half.  Fortunately 
the  air  cleared  toward  six  o'clock,  so  that  we  were  able 
to  distinguish  houses,  trees  and  shrubberies  along  the 
coast  of  Eieserhoft  with  the  naked  eye.  What  a  treat 
for  one  unaccustomed  to  be  on  the  open  sea  for  any 
length  of  time.  We  were  now  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  coast  and  did  not  widen  the  distance  until  sun- 
set, when  we  went  a  few  miles  further  from  land  without 
losing  sight  of  it  entirely.  During  the  evening  we  passed 
five  or  six  more  vessels,  all  sea-bound.  The  sky  was  cov- 
ered with  broken  clouds;  dark  and  silent  was  the  sea,  the 
broad  waves  of  which  kept  us  swinging  to  and  fro;  the 
air  was  mild  and  all  the  passengers  were  on  deck,  in 
eluding  a  few  who,  for  hours,  had  paid  nature's  tribute 
to  the  sea.  We  remained  up  and  passed  the  evening 
joking,  laughing,  rejoicing  and  singing  until  long  after 
the  red  and  green  signal  lanterns  had  been  set  out.  To- 
wards ten  o'clock,  one  after  the  other  retired.  Capt. 
Eybe  turned  the  command  over  to  his  mate,  with  whom 
I  walked  up  and  down  the  deck  for  quite  a  while,  watch- 
ing the  coast  of  Pomerania,  which  we  passed  at  a  dis- 
tance of  perhaps  two  German  miles.  As  the  wind  favored 
us  from  the  Northeast,  Nebendahl,  the  mate,  oi'dered  all 
available  sails  set,  and  when  I  retired,  about  eleven 
o'clock,  we  had  made  such  headway  that  the  lonely  light 
of  Rieserhoft  looked  like  a  speck  on  the  farthest  edge  of 
the  lioi'izon.  Having  reached  my  bunk,  I  soon  fell  sound 
asleep  in  spite  of  the  unaccustomed  manner  of  lodging 
and  notwithstanding  the  steady  groaning  of  the  machine 
and  the  noise  of  the  immense  wheels,  now  louder,  now 
less  noticeable,  according  to  the  movements  of  the  ves- 


KONIGSBERG  TO  BERLIN  17 

sel,  as  it  shuffled  through  the  waves  of  the  ocean.  I 
awakened  shortly  after  five  o'clock,  and  the  quick  and 
heavy  motions  of  the  ship  at  once  made  me  aware  that 
the  wind  had  grown  stronger  during  the  night.  When 
I  reached  the  deck  about  six  a.  m.  my  expectation  was 
verified  by  the  good  Northeast  breeze  which  filled  our 
sails.  The  foam  danced  around  our  ship,  reminding  one 
of  flocks  of  sheep.  In  about  half  an  hour  we  perceived 
the  church  steeples  of  Colberg,  which  we  passed  three 
miles  off  coast  about  half-past  eight  under  full  sail.  By 
nine  o'clock  we  were  able  to  recognize  the  high  towers 
of  Treptow.  The  wind  became  stronger  and  the  ship 
danced  meiTily  upon  the  foam-crowned  waves  of  the  Bal- 
tic sea.  Meanwhile  rain  set  in  and  continued  more  or 
less  during  the  day  and  the  constant  rocking  of  the  ship 
caused  many  of  those  who  had  withstood  the  experience 
so  far,  to  become  sea-sick.  Even  Olias  looked  as  white  as 
chalk  and  did  not  seem  to  relish  the  breakfast  at  all; 
what  he  could  not  eat  sei*\'ed  Griinhagen  and  me  quite 
well. 

The  sky  remained  clouded  during  the  day,  and  though 
but  three  miles  away,  we  were  hardly  able  to  recognize 
the  coast.  The  wind  blew  so  hard  at  noon  that  several 
sails  had  to  be  laid  by  and  we  retained  none  but  the  fore- 
mast. At  twelve  we  found  ourselves  opposite  Swiner- 
hoft.  The  bluff  must  here  be  about  three  hundred  feet 
high.  It  is  the  highest  point  on  the  Pomeranian  coast; 
resembling  the  shore  between  little  Wamicken  and 
Kuliren.  The  wind  increased  its  velocity  from  minute 
to  minute;  it  rained  in  torrents;  the  waves  went  higher 
and  higher,  and  the  mighty  N.  N.  E.  wind  tossed  our 
vessel  to  and  fro  right  memly.  AMienever  one  of  the 
waves,  which  invariably  caught  the  side  of  our  ship,  slid 
underneath,  its  white  crown  of  foam  would  splash  over 
the  whole  length  of  the  deck  and  often  threatened  to  roll 
us  over  and  over.  Eighting  again,  our  ship  would  cut 
some  immense  wave  in  two,  to  be  lost  during  the  next 
minute  in  mountains  of  foam,  until  some  new-comer 
would  break  against  our  bow  with  a  force  that  made  ev- 


18  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

er\'  joint  creak.  Our  progress  was  slo\r,  as  was  to  have 
been  expected  under  such  circumstances,  so  that  we  had 
scarcely  covered  a  quarter  of  a  Gennan  mile  by  one 
o'clock,  when  we  noticed  the  beautiful  broad  belt,  which 
the  foam  of  the  downs  had  spread  in  front  of  the  high 
coast  forests  of  Swinerhoft.  Capt.  Eybe  was  kind  enough 
to  lend  me  an  oil  suit,  which  enabled  me  to  remain  on  deck, 
notwithstanding  the  pouring  rain.  As  it  was  absolutely 
impossible  even  for  sailors  to  stand  up  straight  without 
holding  on  to  something,  I  took  position  alongside  of  the 
wheel.  By  this  time  every  living  soul  was  sick,  even 
Grtinhagen  complained  of  indisposition  and  looked  like 
a  corpse.  I,  on  the  contrary,  did  not  feel  the  slightest 
annoyance  and  even  enjoyed  my  cigar  as  if  I  had  been 
sitting  in  Conradshof  drinking  a  cup  of  coffee. 

The  cabins  offered  a  sight  to  behold:  tables,  chairs,  sea- 
sick passengers,  men,  women  and  children,  everybody 
and  everj^thing  in  utter  confusion.  It  mocked  descrip- 
tion. At  last  we  caught  sight  of  Swinemiinde,  about 
three  p.  m.  Tliree-quarters  of  an  hour  later  we  took  a 
pilot  on  board  and  shortly  after  anchored  in  the  Swin^ 
(pron.*'  'SSweenay"),  between  an  English  schooner  and 
a  Prussian  Man-of-War,  the  **Nix,"  which  had  arrived 
from  London  about  an  hour  ahead  of  us.  The  roughness 
of  the  weather  prevented  our  landing,  and  we  set  out 
anew  after  taking  a  few  more  passengers  aboard  and  fol- 
lowing the  course  of  the  battleship  which,  like  ourselves, 
was  bound  for  Stettin.  Tlie  raging  storm  caused  the  ship 
to  almost  become  unmanageal)le.  It  had  just  struck  seven 
o'clock  when,  while  entering  the  mouth  of  the  river 
**Oder,"  we  experienced  a  terrific  gust  of  wind  which 
tore  the  foremast  completely  out  of  its  holdings.  The 
sails  were  beating  frightfully,  while  torn  fragments  blew 
off,  to  be  carried  far  into  the  Bay.  But  a  few  minutes 
had  elapsed  when  of  the  once  beautiful  sail  there  re- 
mained only  a  collection  of  tattered  rags.  This  was,  how- 
ever, the  only  misliap  that  befell  us  during  the  voyage — 
not  counting  a  few  little  damages  near  Swinemunde. 

At  last  we  reached  Stettin,  about  ten  o'clock  p.  m.    It 


KONIGSBERG  TO  BERLIN  19 

was  very  dark  when  we  anchored  alongside  of  the  steam- 
er '  *  Caminius " ;  of  course  we  remained  on  board  till 
morning.  It  was  Sunday,  the  12th  of  April.  The  weather 
was  clear  and  pleasant,  which  permitted  us  to  land  early, 
and  enabled  us  to  gain  a  good  view  of  the  few  streets ;  we 
also  examined  a  small  war  vessel,  which  was  under  con- 
struction in  the  large  ship-yard.  It  happened  that  the 
great  man-of-war  '^  Salamander"  was  at  anchor,  where- 
fore we  proceeded  to  take  a  good  look  at  her,  though  no 
permission  could  be  obtained  by  any  stranger  to  visit  the 
ship. 

One  observation  interested  me  greatly,  namely:  the 
difference  in  vegetation  about  the  place,  which  stinick  me 
at  once.  The  walls  of  the  fortress  were  already  covered 
with  green  and  most  of  the  trees  in  this  vicinity  had 
donned  their  fresh  spring  garb,  the  new  leaves  of  the 
chestnut  trees,  for  instance,  being  fully  an  inch  long. 
How  beautiful  is  our  northern  springtime! 

But  just  now  Greenliagen  and  his  brother  have  come 
for  the  purpose  of  taking  me  out  for  a  walk,  consequently 
I  shall  have  to  postpone  the  continuation  of  this  letter 
till  my  return. 

At  eight  p,  m. 

As  you  will  readily  understand,  it  has  been  impossible 
for  me  to  make  any  purchases  in  Stettin  on  account  of 
my  very  limited  stay  in  the  fortress.  My  impression  of 
the  latter  has  not  been  a  ver\"  flattering  one.  Though  the 
streets  cannot  really  be  called  narrow,  the  tall  buildings, 
most  of  which  are  five  or  six  stories  high,  darken  these 
thoroughfares  considerably. 

About  eleven  o'clock  we  took  our  baggage  to  the  sta- 
tion. My  ticket  to  Berlin  cost  me  two  thalers  (one  thaler- 
seventy-five  cents),  and  besides  I  had  to  pay  nearly  two 
more  for  overweight  of  baggage.  The  rapidity  of  dis- 
patching travelers  at  the  station  is  truly  remarkable.  Si- 
lence and  a  marvelous  order  reign  everj^where,  due  prob- 
ably to  the  fact  that  none  but  ex-army  men  can  enter  our 
railroad  service  or  that  of  our  custom  houses.    About  a 


20  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Liimdred  people  with  more  or  less  baggage  were  dis- 
patched and  provided  with  tickets  in  less  than  twenty 
minutes.  Ten  minutes  before  our  departure  there  was 
not  a  train  in  sight,  though  the  whole  crowd  of  passen- 
gers was  ready  to  board  it.  Then  began  the  switching, 
the  lining  up  of  cars,  the  loading  of  freight  cars,  the  seat- 
ing of  passengers,  examining  of  tickets  by  the  conductor, 
who  i^olitely  answers  all  reasonable  questions  as  he  goes 
from  one  to  the  other;  all  this  was  done  in  the  twinkling 
of  an  eye  and  when  the  signal  for  departure  was  given, 
the  steam  whistle  blew  and  the  train  pulled  out  to  the 
very  minute,  at  11:45  a.  m.,  as  scheduled.  To  one  who 
has  never  been  on  a  railroad  train,  the  feeling  which  he 
experiences  is  decidedly  strange.  Most  people  imagine 
the  speed  of  the  train  to  resemble  a  flash  of  lightning, 
but  this  is  very  exaggerated,  as  one  can  plainly  recognize 
all  objects  which  the  train  passes,  even  those  which  are 
closest  to  the  rails.  The  strange  noise  of  the  rolling,  the 
whizzing  and  hissing  of  engine  and  cars  as  they  cut  the 
air  at  high  speed,  the  whistling  at  the  approach  of  road 
stations,  all  this  may  annoy  less  sensitive  ears  than  mine, 
particularly  during  the  first  trip.* 

The  country  between  Stettin  and  Berlin  offers  very 
little  change  of  scenery;  only  a  few  hills,  but  mostly  low 
plains,  whose  well-laid-out  farms  give  ample  proof  of  the 
hard  toil  which  the  horny-handed  peasant  has  already 
accomplished  so  early  in  the  year;  but,  with  all  that,  this 
monotonous  sameness  does  not  rest  the  eye  of  the  trav- 
eler, as  there  are  neither  forests  nor  large  bodies  of  water 
to  vary  the  appearance  of  the  landscape.  Here  and  there 
may  be  some  variety  apparent,  but  that  is  all.  The  train 
stopped  at  Tanton,  Passon,  Angermiinde,  Neustadt, 
Eberswalde,  and  other  little  stations,  three  or  five  min- 
utes at  a  time.  The  stations  are  all  well  built,  and  in 
some  instances  even  they  are  magnificent  structures, 
which  result  is  one  of  the  benefits  of  government  owner- 


*These  are  the  natural  observations  one  would  have  made  when 
railroad  travel  was  first  introduced. — Transl. 


KONIGSBERG  TO  BERLIN  21 

ship.  As  OUT  number  of  passengers  increased  at  every 
station,  it  became  necessary  to  add  another  locomotive  at 
Angermiinde.  Our  train  had  eighteen  passenger  coaches, 
holding  in  all  about  eight  hundred  people,  i.  e.,  nearly 
fifty  in  each  car.  We  reached  Berlin  at  last.  It  was  just 
four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  when  we  steamed  into 
Grande  Station  near  the  Oranienburg  gate  (named  after 
Prince  AVilliam  of  Orange).  No  sooner  had  the  train  come 
to  a  standstill  than  a  sentry  from  the  Second  Guard's 
Regiment  stationed  himself  at  every  car,  while  some 
twenty  constables  started  to  examine  the  passes,  which 
took  much  less  time  than  I  had  thought.  This  done,  ev- 
ery one  of  us  received  a  stamped  ticket,  which  we  handed 
to  the  gate  keeper.* 

To  identify  and  obtain  our  baggage  took  about  half  an 
hour,  after  which  we  started  for  our  respective  lodgings. 
Griinhagen  has  a  brother  living  in  Kochstrasse  and  Olias 
and  I  went  to  find  the  ''German  House"  in  Kloster- 
strasse,  which  we  reached  about  five  o'clock.  As  neither 
of  us  was  acquainted  with  the  city,  we  were  at  a  loss  to 
devise  a  plan  for  the  evening,  therefore  I  resolved  to  de- 
liver a  letter,  which  Johanna  Ktihnast  asked  me  to  take 
tO'  Rudolph  Wilzeck — Kommandantenstrasse. 

Olias  accompanied  me  to  that  place.  Utterly  ignorant 
of  the  location  of  the  streets  of  Berlin,  we  went  bravely 
out  to  discover  the  place  of  our  destination.  We 
tramped  through  Spandauer  and  Konigsstrasse,  Molken- 
markt,  Gertrudenstr.,  Spittelmarkt,  Leipzigerstr.,  Don- 
hofsplatz  until  we  finally  drifted  into  Kommandantenstr., 
at  the  extreme  end  of  which  said  dwelling  was  to  be 
found.  T\Tien  we  reached  the  place,  the  bird  had  flown, 
having  left  the  city,  bound  for  East  Prussia,  a  few  days 
previously.  As  soon  as  we  had  recovered  from  our  disap- 
pointment Olias  coaxed  me  to  take  a  stroll  through  the 
* '  Thiergarten. ' '  The  straight-laid  streets  of  this  part  of 
Berlin,  called  Frederic's  town, make  it  easy  for  a  stranger 
to  find  his  way.    We  returned  partly  by  the  same  route 


*Remember,  kind  reader,  that  this  took  place  more  than  fifty 
years  ago.     Times  have  changed  since  then. — Transl. 


22  FAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

we  had  passed  before  until  we  reached  the  endless  Predr 
erickstr.,  which  led  us  into  the  celebrated  avenue  "Unter 
den  Linden,"  with  its  historical  edifices.  Thence  we  en- 
tered the  Tliiergarten  through  the  ''Gate  Brandenburg." 
This  park  is  the  most  celebrated  place  of  recreation  in  all 
Pinissia.  By  nine  o'clock  we  were  home  again  without 
having  lost  our  way  or  even  asking  anyone  for  the  direc- 
tion. I  describe  the  trip  at  such  length  that  you  may,  by 
looking  up  your  map  of  Berlin,  form  some  idea  of  the 
length  of  our  tramp,  which  surely  entitled  us  to  a  good 
night's  rest.  I  assure  you  that  I  slept  more  soundly  than 
during  many  a  night  before. 

As  I  already  have  mentioned,  Griinhagen's  brother 
took  us  out  for  a  walk  this  forenoon.  We  visited  the 
museums  and  passed  through  many  streets  and  squares, 
which  I  had  not  known  of  before.  During  the  afternoon 
our  course  took  in  the  Konigsstrasse,  Donhofsplatz,  Jeru- 
salem, Frederic's  and  Leipzigerstrasse,  then  to  the  Leip- 
ziger  Gate,  Bellevue  avenue— a  beautiful  thoroughfare — 
when  at  last  we  reached  the  Zoological  Garden,  where  we 
staid  till  six  o'clock,  returning  home  through  the  ''Tliier- 
garten," "Unter  den  Linden, "and  "Schlossgarten."  But 
of  what  use  is  this  minute  description  of  our  walks.  Ber- 
lin, notwithstanding  its  magnificent  streets,  its  imposing 
edifices,  its  immense  palaces,  its  beautiful  statues  and 
rare  collections  of  art,  does  not  touch  the  heart.  The  day 
after  tomorrow  I  shall  continue  my  trip  to  Hamburg,  as 
the  very  paving  of  these  streets  is  buraing  under  my  feet. 
Tomorrow  I  shall  visit  "Friedrichshain"  in  order  to  pay 
my  silent  respects  to  the  March  Enthusiasts.  Poor  fel- 
lows!* 


*Noble  Leconvrcur,  his  very  soul  was  already  filled  with  that 
intense  love  of  freedom  which  brinc^s  so  many  Europeans  ro  our 
American  shores  and  his  youthful  heart,  while  he  was  yet  scarcely 
out  of  his  teens,  could  not  and  would  not  leave  the  old  soil  with- 
out uncoverinjy  his  head  in  silent  prayer  at  the  graves  of  the 
German  Martyrs  of  Freedom.  They  suffered  death  while  he, 
their  youthful  sympathizer,  left  home  and  hearth  to  seek  true 
Freedom  under  the  protection  of  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  rather 


KOXIGSBERG  TO  BERLIN  33 

During  my  short  stay  in  Berlin  I  have  not  failed  to 
visit  some  historical  places  such  as  the  Koyal  Palaces, 
the  Breitestrasse,  where  the  first  shots  of  '48  were  fired; 
the  Art  Academy,  Armory  and  other  places  which  I  may 
have  unconsciously  passed  by,  bear  witness  to  the  days 
of  horror.  The  immense  mass  of  stone  of  the  so-called 
"Castle"  made  a  very  sad  impression  upon  me,  more  so 
perhaps  as,  coming  from  Konigstr.,  my  eye  caught  at 
once  the  iron  fence,  on  every  single  gate  of  which  there 
stood  sometimes  one,  sometimes  two  sentries  and  another 
one,  wherever  the  space  between  two'  gates  happened  to 
be  a  foot  or  two  wider  than  usual.  These  fellows,  well 
armed,  walk  up  and  down  the  short  space  they  are  to 
guard;  besides  these,  there  are  crowds  of  policemen  do- 
ing duty  by  moving  about  the  inner  court.  A  chill  ran 
through  my  veins.  He,  who  has  already  inhaled  Free- 
dom's air  at  sea,  cannot  really  care  for  Berlin— cannot 
harmonize  with  Berlin  people.  It  is  not  an  uncommon 
thing  to  see  well-dressed  men  take  off  their  hats  in  pass- 
ing the  empty  carriage  of  some  royal  personage  or  to 
show  the  same  respect  to  a  passing  stable  boy  who  hap- 
pens to  wear  royal  livery. 

Mother  Nature  has  favored  the  country  surrounding 
Berlin  more  than  that  of  Stettin.  The  fruit  trees  are  al- 
ready dropping  their  blossoms,  and  tulips,  lilies  and 
other  flowers  appear  in  full  bloom. 

My  next  letter  will  be  dated  from  Hamburg,  where  I 
hope  to  receive  one  from  home.  Please  do  not  address 
any  more  letters  in  care  of  I^ohr  and  Burchard,  but 
rather  in  care  of  Heinrich  Bartsch. 

How  I  long  to  be  on  the  open  sea  once  more.  To-mor- 
row, as  I  mentioned  before,  I  shall  visit  the  cemeter^^ 
which  harbors  the  IMarch  heroes,  and  then — good-bj^e, 
Berlin;  good-bye  forever,  I  hope! 

To  the  few,  whom  I  love,  and  to  those  who  love  me,  to 
every  one  of  you,  a  hearty  farewell. 

(Signed)  FRAXZ  LECOir\"PEUE. 


than  to  see  his  growing  manhood  crushed  by  Order  of  the  King. — • 
Transl. 


24  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

*Before  proceeding  with  the  description  of  Berlin  in  the 
beginning  of  the  Hamburg  letter,  which  I  am  convinced 
will  impress  the  reader  from  more  than  one  point  of  view, 
let  it  be  remembered  that  our  young  author,  as  is  quite 
common  with  young,  wide-awake  students,  had  inhaled 
the  teachings  of  political  world-saviors,  so-called.  In  his 
particular  case  it  was  Karl  Mai^,  the  shrewd  Geniian 
socialist,  whose  doctrines  were  being  expounded  by  able 
agitators  throughout  the  Fatherland  and  the  dangerous 
effects  of  which  had  clearly  manifested  themselves  in  the 
March  Eevolution  of  1848. 

^Vhile  the  Prussian  government  seemed  quite  well  in- 
formed as  to  the  progress  of  the  brewing  trouble  in  the 
provinces,  and  prepared  to  meet  it,  the  probability  of  an 
early  outbreak  in  the  very  heart  of  Berlin  seemed  not  to 
have  been  given  any  credence  in  highest  circles.  How- 
ever, they  soon  realized  their  mistake,  when  it  was  dis- 
covered that,  notwithstanding  the  great  vigilance  of  their 
police,  a  number  of  political  offenders,  who  had  been  ex- 
iled from  the  kingdom,  had  re-entered  the  Capital  and 
systematically  agitated  the  working  classes  and  student 
bodies,  sowing  discontent  wherever  they  found  a  chance. 
Young  people,  particularly  in  sentimental  Germany,  are 
always  quick  in  accepting  a  method  offered  which  has  for 
its  seeming  j^urpose  the  redemption  of  all  ills,  the 
'' wronged  classes"  are  said  to  be  heir  to.  Is  it  then  so 
surprising  that  such  brilliant  minds,  as  that  of  young  Le- 
couvreur,  should  have  become  greatly  enthused  over  the 
teachings  of  men  like  Karl  Marx,  the  Moses  of  Socialism, 
Etienne  Cabet,  the  French  pedagogue  and  communist, 
and  his  followers,  Louis  Blanc  and  Buchez,  whose  motto: 
''Liberty,  Equality  and  Fraternity"  had  electrified  even 
the  ''German  Michel?"  One  who  had  leanied  to  admire 
such  writers  as  Borne,  Heine  and  Freiligrath,  could  not 
fold  his  hands  in  idleness  during  this  history-making  pe- 
riod. Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  King  Frederick  "Wil- 
liam IV.  tried  his  utmost  to  pacify  the  people,  there  oc- 


*Remarks  bv  translator. 


KONIGSBERG  TO  BERLIN  25 

curred  fierce  fights  in  the  streets  between  the  masses  and 
the  royal  trooi:)S,  in  which  on  the  eighteenth  of  March, 
eighteen  hundred  and  forty-eight,  no  less  than  one  hun- 
dred and  eighty-three  civilians  and  twenty  soldiers  were 
killed.  Though  the  troops  had  gained  a  sad  victory,  the 
King,  who  loved  peace  with  his  people  above  everything 
else,  in  the  spirit  of  his  lamented  mother,  the  great  Queen 
Louisa,  granted  the  very  next  day,  among  other  royal 
favors,  the  total  amnesty  of  all  political  offenders,  and 
witnessed  in  person  the  funeral  of  the  fallen  civilians, 
whose  remains  were  given  solemn  burial  at  Friedrichs- 
hain,  a  cemetery  described  elsewhere. 

The  following  letter  from  H.  K.  H.  Prince  Frederic 
William,  son  of  the  reigning  King's  brother,  William, 
and  later  father  of  the  present  Emperor  of  Germany,  to 
Eduard  Baeyer,  an  intimate  of  his  youth,  was  recently 
published  by  the  ever  well-informed  ^ '  Konigsberger  Har- 
tungsche  Zeitung."  This  letter  is  a  part  of  the  communi- 
cations concerning  this  friendship,  as  appeared  in  an  ar- 
ticle by  Mrs.  Emma  Eibbeck,  nee  Baeyer,  in  the 
''Deutsche  Eundschau,"  a  periodical  of  great  influence. 
What  to  the  translator  seems  to  emphasize  the  weight  of 
the  following  lines  is  the  fact,  which  no  German  reader 
will  overlook,  that  they  were  written  on  the  very  birth- 
day anniversary  of  the  Prince's  illustrious  father,  the 
great  William  the  First.  During  his  reign,  which  fol- 
lowed that  of  Frederick  William  IV.,  all  Germany  cele- 
brated the  twenty-second  of  March.  But  let  us  read  the 
letter,  which  bears  rhetorical  proof  of  great  excitement 
under  which  the  august  writer  labored: 

Potsdam,  March  22,  1848. 
My  Dear,  Good  Baeyer:— This  very  moment  I  received 
your  dear  letter,  the  first  one  since  I  left  Berlin.  You  will 
easily  imagine  how  I  feel.  "What  I  have  experienced  since 
last  Saturday  has  aged  me  many  a  year,  and  I  am  moved 
to  confess  that  everything  seems  to  have  been  but  a  bad 
dream— a  nightmare.  The  terrible  scenes  of  last  Sunday, 
the  heroic  deeds  of  our  troops  on  Saturday,  all  that  I  wit- 


26  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

nessed  from  the  windows,  of  the  castle— but  there  is  no 
need  of  telling  you.  You  are  probably  as  well  informed, 
if  not  better  than  I.  But  when  I  left  Berlin  on  Sunday 
night  about  seven  o'clock,  passing  the  citizen's  guard, 
my  heart  bled.  Fortunately,  I  met  soldiers  in  most  of  the 
halls,  which  fact  had  a  soothing  influence  upon  me.  Many 
were  the  proofs  of  devotion  which  the  officers  showed  me 
until  I  reached  the  carriage  that  drove  me  along  the 
"Linden"  to  tlie  residence  of  Major  Oelrichs  in  the  Pots- 
damerstreet.  My  sister,  the  Princess  Louise,*  was  with 
me,  while  my  parents  remained  with  the  King.  AVe  after- 
wards drove  to  Potsdam  and  are  safe  at  present.  I 
thought  to  dream  that  night  of  the  awful,  horrifying 
sight  of  that  funeral  procession.  The  departure  of  the 
troops,  which  left  the  castle  virtually  without  power  of 
defense,  was  dreadful  indeed.  And!  what  ai  humiliation 
for  our  dear  King  and  the  poor,  sick  Queen,  to  be  forced 
by  the  people  to  view  the  horrible  corpses  from  the  bal- 
cony amongst  the  howling,  shouting  threats  of  the  multi- 
tude. This  is  terrible  to  me  and  never  shall  I  care  to  en- 
ter the  court-yard  again.  Really,  I  am  disgusted  with 
Berlin  forever!  I  was  present  on  Saturday  from  four 
o'clock  till  midnight  and  witnessed  the  struggles  of  our 
brave  soldiers.  Words  do  not  suffice  to  describe  the  valor 
with  which  they  fought.  God  be  praised  that,  compared 
with  the  loss  sustained  by  the  mob,  but  few  of  our  sol- 
diers fell;  every  report  of  a  wounded  soldier  was  terrible 
to  me.  This  was  the  first  murderous  encounter  at  which 
I  have  ever  been  present ;  I  am  now  prepared  to  go  upon 
the  battlefield,  the  sight  will  no  more  be  new  to  me.  Last 
Sunday  was  the  most  ill-fated  day  of  my  life,  up  to  now. 
When  I  left  the  house  in  the  morning  to  drive  to  the  cas- 
tle, a  voice  told  me:  "You  will  not  return  for  some  time!" 
And,  how  it  stands!  My  effects  were  then  already  and 
are  now  in  safety,  many  even  are  in  my  possession  at 
present.    From  the  moment  I  entered  the  castle,  where 


*Later  Grand  Duchess  of  Baden  and  then  only  ten  years  of 
age ;  the  prince  was  seventeen  at  the  time. — Tr. 


KONIGSBERG  TO  BERLIN  27 

many  officers  of  my  regiment  vied  to  kiss  my  hand  in 
deepest  emotion  until  the  time  when  I  drove  away  again 
in  the  evening,  the  awful  howling  never  ceased,  but  con- 
tinued in  my  ears  long  through  the  night.  My  poor  par- 
ents are  well  and  in  safety.  Papa  will  go  to  England,  but 
he  does  not  run  away;  he  received  a  mission  from  the 
King.  I  have  seen  both  of  them.  Everything  is  in  per- 
fect quiet  and  safety  here  in  Potsdam.  The  local  protec- 
tion committee  is  uncommonly  well  organized.  My  other 
younger  relatives,  with  the  exception  of  cousin  Freder- 
ick Karl,  and  my  sister,  are  all  in  safety,  but  not  with  us. 
The  poor  Charlotte  is  nearly  beside  herself,  having  es- 
caped almost  miraculously.  When  will  her  confirmation* 
take  place  and  mine?    God  alone  knows. 

But  I  have  not  lost  courage.  I  trust  in  God!  He  will 
do  all  things  well.  Now  it  is  time  for  me  to  close.  I  have 
given  you  as  many  particulars  as  possible,  whatever 
passed  through  my  heart. 

But  I  have  scrawled  terribly.  I  hope  you  will  be  able 
to  read  it  all.  That  you  are  rejoicing  now  and  able  to 
forget  the  past,  seems  quite  probable  to  me,  in  considerar 
tion  of  the  present  excitement.  I,  for  my  part,  cannot  be 
happy,  but  bow  in  obedience  to  the  new  measures,  taken 
by  the  King,  which  will  prove  beneficial  with  the  help  of 
God.  It  will  be  a  long  time  before  I  shall  be  really  happy 
again!  You  will  not  see  me  very  soon  in  Berlin.  Fare- 
well. Pardon  the  poor  handwriting  and  convey  my  most 
sincere  greetings  to  all  friends.  Tell  them,  as  well  as  our 
teachcTs,  that  I  always  remember  them,  that  I  am  in 
safety  and  ready  to  trust  God  in  all  things,  and  that  I  am 
well  prepared  to  bear,  with  courage  and  fortitude,  the 
great  misfortune  which  has  befallen  us,  and  which  I  look 
upon  as  sent  by  God.  Tell  all  friends  from  the  contents 
of  this  letter,  whatever  you  may  deem  proper  for  them 
to  know,  nothing  or  all;  I  leave  that  to  your  judgment. 


*The  royal  family  is  Lutheran,  and  the  confirmation  here  men- 
tioned refers  to  the  church  ceremony,  during  which  a  promise  of 
perseverance  in  the  Lutheran  faith  is  made. — Trans. 


28  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Pray  for  us,  all  of  you,  as  I  do  for  you.    May  God  bless 
all  of  us  and  may  He  gi^ant  us  an  early  reunion! 
Your  ever  faithful  friend, 

FRIEDEICH  WILHELM. 

P.  S.— I  beg  you,  for  God's  sake,  be  careful  with  this 
letter  and  do  not  show  it  to  anyone.  Just  tell  them  what- 
ever may  be  of  consoling  interest  as  regards  our  fate,  but 
not  the  thoughts  which  I  may  have  expressed.  If  you 
do  not  think  that  you  will  be  able  to  hide  the  letter,  burn 
it  instantly.  Nobody  is  to  read  it,  except  perhaps  it  be 
Schellbach,  whom  I  have  already  seen  and  spoken  to, 
tete  a  tete,  for,  believe  me,  this  region  is  full  of  spies  and 
emissaries;  so  one  has  to  weigh  every  word  carefully.  I 
am  only  too  well  aware  of  it.  Be  very  careful  in  your 
own  behalf. 

Now,  farewell,  and  be  prudent  in  all  things.       F,  W. 

Tlie  foi'egoing  will  sen^e  the  reader  to  better  under- 
stand the  feeling  of  our  author,  who  was  but  three  years 
older  than  H.  E.  Highness,  and  who  represented  at  the 
time— the  other  side.  He  visits  the  very  battle-jfield  upon 
which  his  fellow-endeavorers  had  paid  the  penalty  for 
the  folly  of  their  ignorance  or  misdirected  sentimentality. 
With  the  Berlin  letter  closes  that  period  of  his  life;  in  it 
we  find  the  last  expressions  of  the  author's  sympathy  for 
the  cause  he  espoused  in  his  youth.  He  was  bound  for 
the  New  World  and  he  determined  to  free  himself  from 
the  drawbacks  of  the  old.  (Translator.) 


LETTER  NO.  II 


My  Last  Hours  in  Berlin— Voyage  from  Berlin  to  Ham- 
burg—Hamburg and  the  Hamburg  People. 

Hamburg,  May  6th,  1851. 

When  I  arose  from  my  feather-bed  on  the  morning  of 
April  the  29th,  my  resolution  to  leave  Berlin  on  the  fol- 
lowing day  was  unshaken.  I  had  spent  already  twenty- 
four  hours  to  watch  this  cradle  of  vanity  and  splendor, 
and  thought  it  sufficient ;  indeed,  it  did  suffice,  for  another 
twenty-four  hours  filled  me  with  so  much  disgust  that  it 
would  have  been  a  torture  for  me  to  spend  the  rest  of  my 
life  in  Berlin.  Still,  let  there  be  justice,  where  justice  is 
due.  The  city  itself  is  beautiful,  that  is,  for  him  who  can 
see  something  beautiful  in  a  mass  of  houses,  if  I  may  use 
the  expression:  "in  Sunday-go-to-meeting  attire."  The 
weather  was  bright;  trees  and  lawns  were  in  full  spring 
dress;  clean  streets,  shining  window-panes  eveiy where, 
door  steps  and  everything  admirably  clean,  whether  I 
examined  the  most  imposing  or  the  simplest,  the  colossal 
or  the  most  humble  sights;  everything  was  intended  to  be 
artistically  impressive,  and  would  have  undoubtedly  been 
so  in  my  regard— had  it  not  been  for  the  people^ — such  a 
people! 

Whosoever  doubts  the  veracity  of  my  words  may  take 
a  leisurely  walk  on  any  bright  afternoon  from  Donhofts- 
platz  through  Louisenstrasse  (named  after  the  immortal 
Queen  Louisa  of  Prussia),  Friedrichstr.,  Unter  den  Lin- 
den, to  the  BrandenbuTger  thor,  taking  precaution  to 
avoid  in  his  attire  anything  that  would  or  could  attract 
attention.  I  went  without  cuffs  or  necktie,  dressed  very 
plainly.  Thus  you  will  have  the  best  opportunity  to  ob- 
serve the  thousands  and  thousands  who  pass  you  with  or 

29 


30  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

without  a  purpose.  Tlie  main  feature  which  the  visitor 
of  this  metropolis  will  at  once  recognize  is  the  spirit  of 
servility,  often  followed  by  or  combined  with  undeniable 
traits  of  depravity,  which  are  mirrored  in  the  very  faces 
of  numberless  men  and  women.  From  the  coachman  to 
the  prince  in  the  showy  caiTiage,  from  the  servant  girl  to 
the  countess,  from  the  private  of  the  Grenadiers  to  the 
General,  from  the  cash  boy  to  the  King's  counselor— ev- 
erybody brags,  everybody  tries  to  impress  everybody  else 
in  word  and  action,  yes,  in  his  very  walk,  that  he  is  ever 
so  much  superior  to  anyone  else  until— one  higher  in  so- 
cial standing  happens  along,  then  0 !  how  small,  how  verj'' 
humble  the  hero  of  a  minute  before  has  suddenly  be- 
come. It  was  Monday  evening  on  Leipziger  Platz,  that  1 
witnessed  the  gentleman,  mentioned  in  my  last  letter, 
who  wore  a  decoration  of  rank  in  his  button-hole  pro- 
foundly saluting  the  coachman  or— the  empty  carriage 
he  was  driving,  which  bore  the  coat  of  arms  of  its  royal 
o"WTier — I  had  to  refrain  from  giving  this  old  hypocrite 
a  piece  of  my  angered  mind.  How  true  is  the  much  criti- 
cised description  of  the  immortal  Pleine,  contained  in 
these  words:  "It  really  takes  several  barrels  of  poetry 
to  find  anything  else  in  Berlin  but  dead  houses  and  dead 
l^eople."  It  is  seldom  you  see  a  real  man.  Ever\"thing 
though  new,  everybody,  even  the  young,  is  so  old,  so 
withered— so  dead!  After  I  had  dressed  myself  on  Tues- 
day morning  I  found  myself  so  disappointed,  so  ill-hu- 
mored, that  I  did  not  care  to  leave  the  house  all  the  fore- 
noon, and  not  until  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  did  I 
decide  to  visit  Hasenkamp,  which  meant  a  long  walk,  as 
he  is  staying  with  Dorn,  the  lawyer,  in  Anhaltstr.  I  was 
fortunate  in  finding  him  at  home,  but  he  had  changed  so 
much  that  I  scarcely  recognized  him.  Sickness  had  dis- 
figured him  terribly  and  compelled  the  growth  of  a  beard. 
I  spent  two  very  pleasant  hours  with  him,  as  he  was  in 
an  excellent  frame  of  mind.  He  showed  me  his  wounds, 
one  of  which  was  caused  by  a  chance  shot,  two  inches 
long,  on  the  calf  of  the  right  leg,  while  the  other  proved 
to  be  of  a  serious  nature,  the  bullet  having  entered  the 


BERLIN  TO  HAMBURG  31 

right  side  of  the  abdomen  and  gone  clear  through,  leav- 
ing the  body  hardly  a  finger's  width  from  the  spinal  cord, 
just  below  the  false  ribs.  The  scars  are  as  big  as  a  dol- 
lar. He  described  the  skirmish  near  Friedrichstadt  in 
vivid  colors,  up  to  the  time  when,  being  about  forty  feet 
from  the  enemy,  the  bullet  struck  him.  At  first  he  left 
the  wound  unnoticed,  as  the  feeling  resembled  that  of 
an  electric  shock,  but  dizziness  soon  overtook  him,  fol- 
lowed by  chills  and  fever,  which  slowly  deprived  him  of 
consciousness,  not  soon  enough,  however,  to  prevent  the 
frightening  realization  that  he  was  mortally  wounded. 
The  last  words  which  his  fading  senses  caught  were: 
'  *  Der  Hauptmann  ist  todt ! "  ( The  captain  is  dead ! )  Pic- 
ture to  yourself  the  excruciating  pains  when  he  awoke 
from  his  first  fainting  spell  to  find  himself  lifted  upon 
two  rifles  and  carried  away  from  the  scene  of  battle— 
even  without  emergency  bandages.  They  next  put  him 
on  a  stretcher  and  drove  him  in  a  pouring  rain  through 
badly  paved  streets  and  market  places  to  the  lazareth 
(soldiers'  hospital)  which  was  fully  eight  English  miles 
away  from  the  first  place.  He  recovered  very  slowly  and 
even  yet  bears  the  burden  of  a  maiij'r's  life.  The  two 
very  pleasant  hours  had  flown  rapidly  and  I  truly  regret- 
ted to  take  leave  of  this  honest,  sterling  man,  whose  heart 
and  mind  evinced  qualities  too  rarely  met.  Tliere  re- 
mained on  my  program  but  one  more  part  to  fulfil— my 
intended  visit  to  Friedrichshain  to  honor  the  graves  of 
those  who  have  already  honored  us.  I  now  hastened  to 
accomplish  this  purpose. 

Passing  the  Landsberger  street  and  gate,  one  observes 
to  the  left  of  the  avenue  a  small  hill,  upon  the  top  of 
which  there  are  two  windmills.  Between  these  and  the 
city  there  lies  the  cemeterj^  of  Friedrichshain,  well  laid 
out  with  young  trees  and  flowers.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill 
which  is  nearest  the  city,  I  found  the  resting-place  of  the 
heroes  of  the  eighteenth  of  ]\rarch,  eighteen  hundred  and 
forty-eight.  It  is  a  square  of  between  seventy-five  and 
one  hundred  feet,  hedged  in  by  a  low,  wooden  fence.  Ev- 
ery comer  has  an  open  entrance.    Parallel  with  the  fence 


32  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

run  the  graves,  leaving  a  walk  of  about  five  feet  in  width 
between  them.  The  whole  offers  the  thoughtful  visitor 
a  fit  subject  for  meditation.  The  two  rows  of  gi'aves  have 
been  converted  into  beautiful  flower-beds,  while  the  cen- 
ter of  this  sad,  silent  spot  has  been  laid  out  for  a  lawn. 
Words  cannot  describe  the  impression  which  this  ever 
sorrow-inspiring  place  left  upon  me.  Step  by  step  I  wan- 
dered from  grave  to  grave,  from  ci^oss  to  cross,  every  one 
of  which  was  covered  with  fresh  wreaths.  Beautiful  ivy 
bowers,  as  thickly  grown  as  I  had  never  seen  them  be- 
fore, had  risen  from  the  graves  of  those  whose  noble  deeds 
will  ever  live  in  the  hearts  of  freedom-loving  men.  Be  it 
then  said  to  the  honor  and  credit  of  the  Berlin  people 
that  they  have  set  a  monument  to  the  memoiy  of  those 
who  died  for  their  convictions,  which  is  likewise  a  tribute 
to  the  piety  of  the  living.  They  cared  for  these,  their 
dead,  so  beautifully,  that  this  act  alone  has  reconciled 
me  to  a  great  extent  with  Berlin-at-large.  The  evening 
was  very  mild.  I  sat  long  upon  one  of  those  graves  and 
saw  the  sun  slowly  disappear  from  my  horizon.  Strange 
were  the  visions  which  entranced  me.  It  seemed  to  me 
that  the  departing  rays  of  the  sun  were  only  too  anxious 
to  hasten  away  from  the  mass  of  cold  houses  of  Berlin, 
while  they  hovered  gladly  over  the  silent  crosses  along- 
side of  me  in  apparent  search  of  a  moment's  rest. 

My  dreams  and  my  feelmgs  of  that  hour  I  am  unable  to 
describe;  they  were  undefinable.  At  last  I  arose.  The 
bluish  fog  had  already  commenced  to  overspread  the  end- 
less plain,  and  the  approaching  darkness  reminded  me 
that  it  was  time  to  seek  my  temporaiy  quarters.  Of  all 
the  beautiful  tombstone  inscriptions  I  remember  but  one: 
"Peace  be  to  his  spirit!"  I  shall  never  forget  it.  How 
many  thousands  have  visited  this  spot  without  reading 
these  inspiring  words  and  how  many,  reading  them,  un- 
derstood their  significance?  I  shall  never  wish  for  a  more 
beautiful,  more  spiritual,  more  soulful  epitaph!* 


♦Consider,  that  you  are  reading  the  letter  of  a  youth,  addressed 
to  his  parents  and  admire  with  me  the  purity  of  a  heart  and  a 


BERLIN  TO  HAMBURG  33 

Wednesday,  the  thirtieth  of  April,  found  me  an  early 
riser.  Olias  preferred  to  stay  a  few  more  days  in  Ber- 
lin, but  he  and  I  had  already  sent  the  heavier  baggage  to 
the  station  the  day  before,  so  that  it  could  be  forwarded 
by  freight  and  still  reach  Hamburg  in  time.  Each  of  us 
kept  about  fifty  pounds  which  are  allowed  every  passen- 
ger on  the  railroad.  My  fare— third  class— amounted  to 
four  thaler  and  five  Silbergroschen  (about  three  dollars). 
The  train  pulled  out  of  Berlin  at  7:30  a.  m.  Our  first 
stop  occurred  at  Spandau,  the  well-known  and  much- 
dreaded  fortress,  where  many  a  brave  man  serves  time 
for  political  offenses,  for  having  a  mind  of  his  own  and 
the  courage  to  express  it.  The  road  leads  along  the  banks 
of  the  Havel  with  its  little  inlets,  bridges  and  miniature 
bays.  The  picturesque  changes  of  water,  fields,  hidden 
villages,  now  and  then  a  farm  house  or  fisherman's  hut, 
were  materially  heightened  by  a  fabulous  number  of 
boats,  large  lumber  boats,  boats  carrying  grain  and  other 
field  products  to  the  larger  cities  and  seaports,  or  return- 
ing home  with  merchandise  of  every  description,  such  as 
coffee,  rice,  staple  goods  of  every  kind,  dry  goods,  furni- 
ture, etc.  Tlie  shining  white  sails  of  these  boats  which 
by  the  way  are  the  floating  homes  of  their  owners,  in- 
crease the  attractiveness  of  the  pretty  scenery  under  the 
mild  rays  of  the  early  morning  sun.  Everything  looked 
charmingly  fresh.  After  leaving  Spandau,  there  was  a 
decided  change  for  the  worse.  As  far  as  the  eye  could 
see,  there  were  fields  and  fields  and  nothing  but  fields 
and  prairie-like  monotony.  The  crops,  too,  looked  poor- 
ly, as  the  soil  is  too  sandy  to  give  much  encouragement. 
The  low  hills  here  and  there  resemble  the  stretches  of  the 
far-away  ocean  so  much  that  I  was  tempted  more  than 
once  to  look  round  for  the  missing  waves.  Notwithstand- 
ing the  apparent  scarcity  of  vegetation,  the  neighborhood 


soul,  filled  with  the  love  of  Freedom,  which  caused  him  to  leave 
an  unsympathizing'  country  in  order  to  seek  liberty  of  body  and 
mind  in  free  America. — Transl. 


34     EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

seems  to  be  pretty  uoll  inliabitecl  and  soineliow  or  in 
some  Tvay  the  people  must  make  a  living.* 

Here  and  there  a  little  forest  of  fir-trees  made  a  wel- 
come change  during  the  monotonous  trip.  We  passed 
Nauen,  Paulinenaue,  Friesack,  Xeustadt  an  der  Dosse, 
Zeniitz,  Wilsnack,  until  we  reached  Wittenberge,  which 
has  a  branch  custom-home,  where  all  passengers  and 
goods  coming  from  Prussia  were  requested  to  undergo 
slight  formalities  without  the  annoyance  of  revision,  how- 
ever. After  Wittenberge,  the  desert— for  no  other  name 
is  applicable  to  this  barren,  desolate  conntiy,  whei^e  the 
eye  can  feast  on  nothing  but  shrubbery,  mostly  withered, 
from  which  now  and  then  you  see  a  stunted  fir-tree  arise, 
which  casts  its  forlorn  glance  about  for  companionship, 
for  the  old  adage,  **Miser}^  loves  company,"  seems  to 
find  its  echo  even  in  the  vegetable  kingdom. 

As  if  we  were  to  drink  the  cup  to  overflowing,  it  began 
to  rain  in  torrents  right  after  we  left  Wittenberge  and 
nothing  could  have  made  this  desert  look  sadder.  When 
we  reached  Boitzenburg,  having  passed  Grabow,  Lud- 
wigslust,  Hagenow  in  quick  succession,  the  weather  for- 
tunately cleared  up  and  gave  us  a  chance  to  view  this 
pretty  little  town  and  its  refreshing  sun-oundings.  Here 
one  obtains  a  good  view  of  the  low  lands  of  the  river 
"Elbe,"  which  is  quite  an  agreeable  change  for  the  eye 
of  the  lonely  traveler. 

After  Boitzenburg— another  desert,  until  one  reaches 
Schwarzenbeck,  which  is  situated  on  a  hill.  The  moment 
one  arrives  at  this  station  everything  seems  to  change  as 
if  by  magic.  One  may  here  behold  a  most  picturesque 
rural  scene.  Here  and  there  a  village  with  its  friendly 
church  steeple,  brooks  winding  in  zig-zag  lines  through 
the  little  valley.  Little  forests  here  and  there,  proud  to 
show  off  in  their  new  spring  coats,  all  of  which  combines 


*They  do,  by  raising  potatoes  and  cfrain  for  starch  mills  and 
distilleries,  and  in  later  years,  by  raisin^r  sugar  beets  for  export, 
which  is  encourag^Cfl  by  a  government  premium,  of  which  young 
Lecouvreur  had  no  knowledge  at  the  lime. — Transl. 


BERLIN  TO  HAMBURG  35 

to  offer  the  traveler  a  refreshing  change.  These  pleasant 
scenes  continue  all  the  way  to  Hamburg.  We  passed 
Friedrichsruh,  Reinbeck,  Bergedorf  and  reached  our  des- 
tination at  three-fifty  p.  m. 

Hambueg  and  the  Hambueg  People. 

To  take  a  much  needed  rest  I  went  to  the  hotel  ' '  City 
of  Kiel, ' '  near  the  station ;  but  changed  quarters  the  next 
morning,  and  am  presently  located  in  the  "New  City  of 
Berlin"  on  the  Monkedamm,  near  the  great  "Merchant's 
Exchange."  Hugo  arrived  Friday  morning  from  Berlin 
and  since  then  we  have  been  rooming  together.  We  get 
along  quite  well  and  have  laid  our  plans  so  as  to  make 
our  stay  as  inexpensive  as  possible,  for  there  are  innu- 
merable channels  by  which  our  little  money  can  be  spent. 
For  breakfast  and  supper  we  bought  bread,  butter,  cheese 
and  sausage.  I  may  say,  wholesale,  so  as  to  save  the  high 
charges  in  local  restaurants;  for  our  daily  noon  meal, 
which  is  the  only  square,  warm  meal  of  the  day,  we  have 
discovered  a  plain  but  very  respectable  inn,  where  we 
are  well  ser\'ed  for  eight  Hamburg  shillings  (about  twen- 
ty cents).  Once  in  a  while,  when  we  feel  particularly 
hilarious,  we  buy  a  bottle  of  wine,  which  costs  but  six  or 
eight  shillings,  and  very  good  for  the  money. 

Though  I  am.  exceedingly  disappointed  to  have  to 
waste  a.  whole  month  doing  absolutely  nothing,  it  cannot 
be  helped  and  the  best  thing  one  can.  do  is  to  follow  the 
advice  of  a  great  modem  philosopher:  "Under  all  cir- 
cumstances keep  an  even  mind."* 

Tlie  time  between  the  twentieth  and  thirtieth  may  be 
legally  charged  to  the  local  shipping  agents,  Knohr  and 
Burchard;  for  it  is  stipulated  in  the  legal  provision,  re- 
ferred to,  that  a  sum  of  twelve  shillings  a  day  be  paid 
during  the  time  of  delay,  where  date  of  departure  has 


*Young  Lecouvreur  seems  to  have  taken  this  motto  through 
life  as  his  magic  staff,  leaning  upon  which,  he  overcame  difficul- 
ties which  to  others  appeared  insuperable. — Transl. 


36  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

been  agreed  uix>n  and  said  delay  caused  miwan-anted 
expense  for  the  person  concerned,  provided  berth  shall 
have  been  engaged  under  such  conditions.  In  my  case  it 
only  anioimts  to  about  three  German  thaler,  but  I  shall 
surely  not  let  Kniilir  and  Burchard  be  the  gainers.  "What 
is  good  for  them  is  still  better  for  me.  You  will  readily 
imdei'stand  that  Hugo  and  I  live  as  economically  as  snails 
— faute  d'  argent.  We  seldom  venture  out  during  the 
forenoon,  but  are  generally  at  the  great  ''Exchange"  by 
one  o'clock,  about  two-  we  have  our  dinner,  after  which 
the  daily  pleasure  walk,  which  mostly  starts  or  ends  at 
the  Harbor.  Between  seven  and  eight  o  'clock  we  return 
home,  where  we  at  once  proceed  to  bed  in  order  toi  save 
candles.  Thus  we  spend  day  after  day.  I  have  every 
reason  to  be  grateful  to  Eosenstock  for  his  letter  of  rec- 
ommendation to  Heinrich  Bartsch;  this  gentleman  assists 
me  in  many  ways  and  shows  general  interest  in  me;  but 
of  this  I  shall  write  later.  Now  a  few  words  about  Ham- 
burg and  the  Hamburger  people,  in  as  much  as  I  have 
had  opportunity  to  judge  of  them  during  my  short  stay. 

If  someone  were  to  ask  me  to  personify  Berlin  I  should 
not  hesitate  in  comparing  her  tO'  a  vain,  coquettish,  yet 
well-mannei'ed,  middle  aged  but  still  attractive  Lady  of 
the  Court;  but  Hamburg — that  is  quite  a  difficult  propo- 
sition. 

Hamburg,  seen  from  different  sides,  impresses  one  dif- 
ferently. The  magnificent  harbor,  the  beautiful  Jung- 
fernstieg  (Maiden-Promenade),  the  Alster,  the  gi-eat  Ex- 
change, the  Old-Town,  the  suburbs  St.  Pauli  and  St. 
George — each  represents  a  type  of  its  own,  and  still 
through  them  all  winds  its  way  like  a  red  thread,  the 
Merchant  Prince.*  You  find  him  everywhere,  on  the 
promenades,  in  the  Opera  as  well  as  in  the  many  lesser 
theaters,  concert  halls,  beer  gardens,  wine  cellars,  restau- 
rants— mostly  subterranean— everywhere  the  merchant 
prince.    All  Hamburg  breathes  commerce.    As  the  "Ex- 


*Commercienrath,  a  more  title,  given  by  sovereigns  to  favorite 
bankers  and  merchants. 


BERLIN  TO  HAMBURG  37 

change"  is  situated  in  the  very  center  of  this  Metropolis, 
one  need  not  be  surprised  that  it  has  become  the  soul  of 
all  material  and  intellectual  life  here;  he  who  doubts  it 
will  easily  become  convinced  if  he  pays  a  visit  to  the  said 
place  about ' 'Exchange  time, ' '  i.  e.,  from  one  to  two  in  the 
afternoon.  The  Exchange  opens  promptly  at  one  o'clock; 
at  ten  minutes  past  the  gates  close  and  every  late-comer 
has  to  deposit  a  small  fine  except,  I  am  told,  if  he  is  an 
active  member  of  the  Board  of  Commerce,  to  which,  how- 
ever, only  a  limited  number  of  the  most  influential  mer- 
chants are  eligible.  The  inner  hall  measures  about  two 
hundred  feet  square,  but  a  few  minutes  suffice  to  fill  ev- 
ery inch  with  humanity,  so  that,  viewing  from  the  gal- 
leries, the  spectator  can  see  nothing  but  one  black  mov- 
ing mass,  head  on  head,  mostly  adonied  with  the  indis- 
pensable headgear  of  a  Hamburg  merchant,  the  tall, 
black  silk  hat.  A  double  row  of  arcades,  supported  by 
immense  pillars,  surround  the  inner  hall.  The  Exchange 
reading  rooms,  the  assembly  rooms  of  the  Board  of  Com- 
merce and  the  reception  parlors  are  right  above  the  ar- 
cades, while  the  main  hall  has  an  immense  skylight  for 
its  roof.  The  galleries,  whence  one  can  watch  the  whole 
proceedings,  are  about  thirty-five  feet  above  the  ground 
floor,  and  entrance  to  the  different  library  and  committee 
rooms  is  effected  from  there. 

All  those  rooms  even  are  so  filled  with  people  during 
exchange  hours  that  one  can  scarcely  pass.  And  yet, 
there  is  a  system  governing  this  immense  busy  bulk  of 
humanity  or  merchant  body.  Every  branch  of  commerce 
has  its  circle  and  every  member  of  that  circle  has  his 
place,  elbowing  his  sharpest  competitor  in  the  most  har- 
monious manner.  The  polished  floor  itself  is  marked 
with  well-measured  squares,  circles,  triangles  and  the 
like  figures,  whereby  the  respective  members  may  know 
and  remember  their  stand.  There  is  the  banker's,  the 
exporters',  the  commissioners',  the  dry  goods  merchant, 
the  ship-brokers',  the  stock-brokers',  the  cotton  mer- 
chants' and  numberless  other  circles.  Hannony  reigns 
supreme  and  the  old  Hamburg  motto:    "The  keener  the 

48S27 


38  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

competition,  the  greater  the  fun,"  seems  to  pervade  ev- 
erj^body  and  everything.  What  a  sight  for  the  onlooker 
from  one  of  the  galleries,  where  every  stranger,  who  has 
not  come  on  a  business  mission,  goes  to  watch  the  world's 
marketing. 

Many  a  foreign  potentate  of  civilized  and  uncivilized 
domains  visits  the  Hamburg  Exchange  and  marvels  at 
this  industrial  bee-hive  of  the  old  Hansatown,  which  was 
founded  by  Charlemagne  in  the  year  811  A.  D.  It  was  he 
who  granted  the  city  free  trade  and  a  special  legislature. 
But  my  thoughts  return  to  the  Exchange.  What  a  con- 
course of  nationalities.  Within  the  space  of  half  an  hour 
one  may  converse  with  natives  from  every  comer  of  the 
globe.  You  hear  German,  French,  English,  Dutch,  Span- 
ish, Danish,  Flemish,  Norwegian,  Swedish,  Russian,  Sla- 
vonian, Persian  and  many  other  tongues,  which  I  heard 
spoken  during  my  few  visits.  The  whole  has  something 
fascinating  and  yet  stupifying,  I  have  been  there  three 
times  without  being  able  to  give  an  exact  description  of 
this  truly  overwhelming  experience.  No  stranger  should 
leave  Hamburg  without  having  visited  this  center  of  com- 
merce, this  soul  of  the  commonwealth,  for  Hamburg  is  at 
the  Exchange,  as  the  Exchange  is  Hamburg  in  bulk. 

No  wonder,  then,  that  the  galleries  are  adorned  with 
representatives  of  the  beautiful  sex  from  all  parts  of  the 
world. 

AVhile  the  building  itself  is  not  particularly  remarka- 
ble for  its  architectural  beauty,  there  is  certainly  some- 
thing imposing  about  it  which  tells  tlie  new-comer  almost 
instantaneously:  "This  is  the  Exchange  of  the  world's 
market."  I  felt  impressed  that  way  when  crossing  the 
Adolph's  platz  for  the  first  time,  facing  the  main  en- 
trance. 

Hamburg,  May  7th,  1851. 

I  commenced  this  letter  yesterday  and  will  endeavor  to 
continue  it  now  at  my  leisure  until  it  will  be  long  enough 
to  send  to  my  beloved  ones  at  home. 

Having  tried  to  picture  the  Exchange  in  the  few  lines 


BERLIN  TO  HAMBURG  39 

above,  I  shall  now  proceed  to  give  you  a  slioTt  description 
of  the  harbor,  where  I  am  a  daily  visitor. 

Hamburg  and  the  suburb  of  Saint  Paul  extend  about 
three  English  miles  along  the  eastern  bank  of  the  "Elbe;" 
onet-half  of  this  distance  is  generally  known  as  the  ''In- 
ner Harbor,'*  where  mostly  smaller  vessels  congregate, 
such  as  carry  freight  up  and  down  the  river  as  far  as 
Bodenbach  Tetschen-Bohemia,  and  of  which  I  have  made 
mention  in  one  of  my  previous  letters.  The  seaport 
proper  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  "Elbe;"  it  is  about  half  a 
mile  long  and  takes  in  the  whole  width  of  the  river  which 
measures  about  seventeen  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The 
so-called  "Gate  of  the  Habor,"  which  divides  the  city 
line  from  St.  Pauli,  is  sharp  on  the  bank  of  the  river  and 
about  one  hundred  feet  wide,  reaching  to  a  small  hill, 
called  Stintfang,  the  top  of  which  is  flattened  and  fenced 
in  by  cast-iron  railings.  I  went  there  last  evening  for  the 
first  time.  The  weather  was  beautiful  and  I  ascended  the 
hill  with  a  certain  amount  of  reverence.  Do  you,  my  be- 
loved ones,  still  remember  the  beautiful  scene  which  was 
one  of  the  main  attractions  of  the  "Konigsberg"  picture 
gallery:  "Hamburg,  as  seen  from  the  Stintfang?"  How 
often,  during  my  childhood  days,  did  I  look  admiringly 
upon  that  scene,  while  my  thoughts  carried  me  to  the 
Elbe  and  the  many,  many  ships  of  all  nations  and  to  the 
immense  mass  of  houses  of  the  old  Hansatown.  It  was 
one  of  my  favorite  dreams.  But  yesterday,  I  did  not 
stand  admiringly  in  front  of  the  picture;  I  stood,  behold- 
ing in  fact  that  ocean  of  moving  vessels  on  one  side,  and 
the  innumerable  buildings  on  the  other.  Eeally  and 
truly,  it  was  no  dream,  but  rather  a  more  impressive  real- 
ization. My  feelings  are  difficult  to  explain.  I  drew  all 
kinds  of  comparisons  between  the  painting  in  the  Home 
Gallery  and  the  original,  the  magnificent  living  picture 
now  before  me;  again,  I  compared  the  sentiments  which 
enlivened  my  mind  in  childhood  days  to  those  of  early 
manhood;  in  other  words,  between  the  time  when,  filled 
with  a  child's  pure,  happy  confidence,  I  dared  to  laugh 
at  the  future  probabilities  of  life  and  the  present,  when, 


40  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

having  perhaps  the  happiest  and  most  instinictive  time 
of  my  life  behind  me  and  entering  upon  an  micertain 
future  not  altogether  without  disti-ust  in  my  own  inward 
strength,  though  full  of  faith  in  the  wisdom  and  goodness 
of  God.  The  school  of  life  is  not  altogether  new  to  me, 
I  have  had  some  veiy  severe  experiences  and  am  only  one 
among  the  many  who  will  have  to  find  means  of  existence 
ixL  it.  However,  confidence  in  Providence,  and  in  our 
own  inner  self,  and  an  earnest  persevering  will,  have  done 
great  things  at  all  times,  and  I  propose  to  do  my  shara 

Tliere  is  nothing  more  attractive  in  Hamburg  than  the 
harbor-site,  as  seen  from  the  Stintfang,  at  the  foot  of 
which  the  visitor  beholds  a  panorama  never  to  be  forgot- 
ten. One  obser\^es  three  rows  of  piles  along  the  bank. 
The  large  ocean  vessels  are  chained  to  these  piles  and 
between  the  rows  which  form  perfect  water  avenues,  one 
obser\^es  small  and  large  freight  boats,  lighters,  which 
earry  the  merchandise  to  and  fro.  This  is  necessary,  as 
the  hundreds  of  steamers  and  large  sailing  vessels  can- 
not all  anchor  conveniently  without  being  seriously  in- 
commodated  by  the  tides.  Vessels,  which  cannot  find 
proper  accommodation  on  entei*ing  the  immense  harbor, 
have  to  anchor  in  the  middle  of  the  Elbe  until  some  out- 
going boats  make  room  for  the  newcomer,  which  pro- 
cedure is  well  regTilated  by  the  harbor  commission  and 
carefully  watched  by  the  harbor  police,  who  patrol  the 
waterways  with  painful  regularit}^* 

Looking  about,  the  searching  eye  cannot  penetrate  the 
acreages  of  sails,  masts  and  riggings,  which  are  appa- 
rently made  the  more  solid  by  the  constant  smoke  and 
coal-dust  arising  either  from  the  many  ship-galleys  or 


*During  the  last  twenty  years  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
million  marks,  i.  e.  something  like  thirty-eii^ht  million  dollars, 
have  been  spent  in  rebuilding  the  docks  and  enlarging  facilities 
for  transient-storaq^e,  which  fact  has  made  this  harbor  superior 
to  the  old  rivals.  Liverpool,  Amsterdam  and  Antwerp.  And  all 
but  ten  million  dollars  were  raised  by  subscription-bonds  among 
local  merchants  and  bankers,  which  will  give  the  reader  an  idea 
of  the  immense  wealth  of  that  citv. — Transl. 


BERLIN  TO  HAMBURG  41 

from  tlie  chimneys  of  the  numberless  lighters  and  little 
steamers,  ■which  are  running  up  and  down  the  river  by 
day  and  night,  for  work  never  stops.  Vessels  load  and 
unload  constantly,  as  the  saving  of  time  as  well  as  the 
nature  of  the  cargo  very  often  demands  immediate  at- 
tendance. The  inclemency  of  the  weather  in  winter-time 
is  particularly  the  cause  of  many  hardships.  On  one 
occasion,  I  am  told,  that  the  non-shipment  of  forty  thou- 
sand bags  of  potatoes  cost  the  shipper  a  small  fortune, 
as  his  goods  were  destroyed  by  the  intense  frost  which 
set  in,  while  awaiting  storage  in  an  English  vessel. 

There  are  four  unbroken  lines  of  vessels  from  all  na- 
tions, of  all  shapes  and  build,  four  seemingly  endless 
chains  of  merchant  fleets;  all  along  St.  Pauli  and  the 
neighboring  town  Altona  and  far  beyond  it,  one  can  see 
them  busily  engaged  in  loading  and  reloading  their  car- 
goes. As  one  hears  at  the  Exchange  languages  of  all 
civilized  countries,  so  does  one  perceive  in  this  metro- 
politan harbor  flags  of  all  nations  of  the  earth,  even  Bra- 
zilian and  Chilean  colors.  And  what  beautiful  vessels 
one  sees!  They  often  resemble  men-of-war  rather  than 
merchant  vessels,  bent  upon  their  peaceful  and  harmoni- 
ous missions.  There  is,  for  instance,  the  "Gutenberg," 
one  of  the  Hamburg- American  passenger  liners  near  the 
"Baumtlior,"  which  carries  immense  freights,  besides 
being  one  of  the  best  fitted  passenger  steamers,  recently 
built  after  the  most  api^roved  plans.  It  is  named  after 
our  '* Johannes  Gutenberg,"  the  inventor  of  the  first 
printing  press.  There  are  many  such  beautiful  vessels 
in  plain  sight,  though  they  are  not  all  as  large  as  the  one 
mentioned. 

Let  us  return  to  the  "Stintfang  View."  One  can  only 
see  a  comparatively  small  part  of  the  older  city  and  the 
quaint  old  buildings,  which  have  little  attraction  for  the 
ordinary  sight-seer.  The  other  parts  of  the  city  are  gen- 
erally hidden  from  view  at  this  time  of  the  year,  as  the 
prevailing  fog  obscures  the  so-called  ''new  city,"  i.  e., 
that  part  wliich  has  been  rebuilt  after  the  fearful  con- 
flagration in  1842 ;  though  the-  early  spring  sun  may  try 


42  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

for  days  to  clear  the  view,  it  seldom  succeeds  until  later 
in  the  season.  But  the  view  of  the  Elbe  up  stream,  and 
of  the  little  green  ishinds  here  and  there,  Is  truly  delight- 
ful. One  can  see  the  Hanoverian  coast  vrith  its  forests 
and  coated  hills  lining  the  blue-trimmed  horizoii  for 
miles.  I  shall  visit  the  Stintfang  as  often  as  possible,  for 
there  more  than  elsewhere  the  familiar  scenes  of  home 
and  longings  of  the  past  are  brought  before  my  mind. 
No  matter  whether  in  company  or  not,  I  shall  never  feel 
lonesome  in  that  place.  The  sun  had  long  sent  its  fare- 
well rays,  when  I  finally  made  up  my  mind  to  seek  my 
temporary  abode.  During  the  night  following  I  dreamt 
of  our  ''Exchange  Garden,"  probably  because  I  had 
thought  of  it  on  my  way  to  the  hotel  from  the  Stintfang. 
Just  at  this  moment,  being  earnestly  at  work  to  famil- 
iarize you  with  Hamburg  scenes,  I  am  pleasantly  inter- 
inipted  by  the  arrival  of  your  welcome  letters,  dated  the 
second  of  May,  a.  c,  and  containing  messages  of  love 
and  cheer  from  you,  dear  father,  my  darling  mother  and 
my  beloved  sister,  Marie.  Nothing  will  prevent  me  from 
reading,  enjoying  and  re-reading  them,  after  which  I 
shall  set  to  work  answering  these  love- whisperings  at 
once,  and  Hamburg  and  the  Hamburgers,  however  inter- 
esting they  may  be,  will  have  to  wait. 

Hamburg,  May  8th,  1851. 
First  of  all  let  me  thank  you  a  thousand  times  for  the 
comforting  messages  contained  in  your  letters.  I  am 
really  and  truly  happy,  because  you  all  have  written  so 
lovingly  and  given  proof  thereby  that  your  thoughts  are 
much  more  in  symj^iathy  with  my  doings  than  they  were 
before,  or  immediately  after  my  departure.  I  person- 
ally have  come  to  the  conclusion  that  it  avails  little  or 
nothing  to  worrj'  about  things  which  cannot  be  altered. 
And  there  I  seem  to  hear  the  well-known  air  of  Flotow's 
latest  production,  "Martha,  or  the  Market  of  Rich- 
mond:" "Happy  he  who  can  forget  that  which  worried 
heart  and  liead."*     Xo  matter  how  much  pain  it  may 

*Flotorr's  opera,  "Martha,"'  aj.'pcarcd  in    1846. — Transl. 


BERLIN  TO  HAMBURG  '  43 

give  us,  let  us  be  stronger  than  pain,  tlie  deepest  wounds 
of  which  will  heal  under  the  soothing  influence  of  Father 
Time.  It  was  easy  for  Lessing  to  suggest  in  his  immor- 
tal ''Nathan  the  Wise"  that:  "No  man  is  ever  compelled 
to  accept  dictation"  (Kein  Mensch  muss  miissen).  Hap- 
py he  who  never  experiences  the  contrary,  but  pity  him 
who  is  not  only  forced  to  accept,  but  who  has  to  dictate 
his  own  sentence.  I  have  been  one  of  the  latter;  I  was 
compelled  to  leave  Konigsberg.  (As  mentioned  in  the 
preface,  the  author  had  to  leave  his  home  for  political 
reasons.)  You  wished  to  know,  dear  father,  who  had 
supplied  me  with  recommendations.  I  had  three  for 
Hamburg,  two  of  which  have  already  done  their  good 
work,  i.  e.,  the  one  from  Rosenstock  to  Heinrich  Bartsch, 
whom  I  have  already  mentioned,  and  one  from  Malmros 
to  the  Prussian  Consul-General,*  Wilhelm  O'Swald,  who 
in  turn  sent  me  two  very  good  recommendations,  one  for 
Franz  Kallmann,  Valparaiso,  and  the  other  to  Gent, 
Schott,  Duncker  and  Bottcher  in  San  Francisco,  Califor- 
nia. Both  letters  are  written  in  most  flattering  terms, 
owing  to  the  warm  recommendations  Malmros  had  given 
me;  this  is  a  great  point  gained,  as  the  finn  William 
O'Swald  &  Co.  ranks  very  high  in  commercial  circles,  in 
fact,  its  world-wide  reputation  is  such  that  the  signature, 
if  attached  to  a  jioung  man's  introductory  letter,  carries 
great  weight.  My  third  recommendation  was  from  the 
Exchange  broker  Kalan  to  Louis  Dubois,  who  contem- 
plates going  to  San  Francisco  himself,  where  he  hopes  to 
get  settled  by  the  end  of  next  summer.  He  is  a  cousin  of 
Bartsch  and  as  I  have  only  had  one  slight  oppoi-tunity  of 
speaking  to  him,  there  is  little  to  be  said  at  this  time,  but 
that  my  first  impression  left  me  hopeful.  Besides  the 
above  mentioned  there  is  a  letter  from  Markwald, 
Konigsberg,  to  his  brother  in  San  Francisco,  who  now 
happens  to  be  in  Bremen  and  may  arrive  here  any  day. 


*Before  1871,  each  one  of  the  separated  principalities  of  the 
Fatherland,  had  an  accredited  representative  near  the  seat  of  the 
government  of  the  other. — Transl. 


44  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Of  course,  I  shall  lay  in  wait  for  him,  to  surprise  him  with 
his  brother's  letter,  when  the  time  comes.  Finally  there 
are  two  more  letters  from  Eosenstock,  one  to  Emil  Bott- 
eher,  junior  partner  of  Gent,  Schott,  Dunker  and  Bott- 
cher,  and  the  other  to  his  brother,  Eugen  Eosenstock,  in 
which  he  praised  my  talents  and  good  qualities  in  an  al- 
most impudent  manner.  He  has  often  proved  to  be  a  true 
friend  and  no  matter  how  fate  may  deal  with  me  in  fu- 
ture, I  shall  always  bear  him  and  his  many  kind  deeds  in 
grateful  remembrance.  W.  O'Swald  has  requested  Franz 
Kallmann  to  further  aid  me  with  recommendations. 
Aside  from  these,  I  may  be  able  to  obtain  one  here  and 
there,  as  I  shall  be  on  the  lookout,  wherever  opportunity 
may  present  itself,  so  as  to  be  well  provided  when  I  leave, 
the  ^'Konigsberger  Zeitung"  is  apparently  not  to  be  had 
around  here  and  your  clippings  and  quotations  will  there- 
fore be  greatly  appreciated,  the  further  away  I  shall  find 
myself  from  home. 

You  mention  that  the  "Nix"  stranded  at  Mauenhaken 
on  the  Swine  river  (to  be  pronounced  Sween'ay),  which 
occurrence  is  not  new  to  me,  as  I  saw  it  with  my  own 
eyes;  how  it  happened,  nobody  on  board  seemed  to  be 
able  to  explain.  As  I  told  you  in  one  of  my  first  letters, 
we  were  almost  alongside  of  the  "Nix"  and  exactly  op- 
posite the  iDilot's  house,  weighing  anchor  about  the  same 
time  as  the  great  steamer,  which  had  two  splendid  ma- 
chines of  about  240  horse  power,  enabling  her  to  speed 
along  rapidly  until  the  time  of  the  accident,  which  hap- 
pened while  I  was  standing  near  the  capstan  watching 
the  course  of  the  fast  moving  vessel  in  whose  wake  we 
were  cruising,  when  behold,  she  turned  to  right  angle 
course,  and,  as  the  Swine  near  Mauenhaken  is  not  very 
broad,  it  took  but  very  few  seconds  to  see  her  stranded 
upon  the  low,  shoal-like  shore.  The  assertion  that  the 
length  of  the  "Nix"  checked  the  power  of  the  rudder  is 
laughable,  as  even  the  largest  vessel  will  obey  the  steer- 
ing, provided  the  mate  attends  to  business  and  holds 
tight;  tlie  man  at  the  helm  of  the  "Nix"  did  his  best  in 
this  respect.  Many  thanks  for  Meyhoffer's  and  Yogt's 
messages. 


BERLIN  TO  HAMBURG  45 

Now  let  us  return  to  the  description  of  Hamburg  and 
its  inhabitants: 

The  architecture  of  the  city,  taking  it  all  in  all,  is 
rather  old-fashioned  as  may  well  be  imagined,  when  one 
considers  that  this  old  Hansatown  celebrated  its  millen- 
nial existence  half  a  centuiy  ago  (1811).  I  have  even 
seen  mediaeval  facades  on  many  buildings  which  have 
arisen  from  the  ashes  after  the  gi^eat  fire  of  1842,  which 
wiped  nearly  one  hundred  and  forty  streets  and  two  gi- 
gantic church  edifices,  St.  Nicholas'  and  St.  Peter's,  out 
of  existence.  From  May  Stli  to  the  11th,  the  disastrous 
flames  raged,  demanding  many  a  human  sacrifice  and  the 
loss  of  millions  of  property.  The  newly  laid  streets  are 
wide  and  straight  but  many  of  the  old  ones  wliich  were 
spared  during  the  fire  are  decidedly  crooked  and  narrow, 
while  the  squares  are  small.  Berlin,  in  this  respect,  is 
ahead.  Even  the  sidewalks  are  poorly  paved  and  only 
such  great  and  fashionable  thoroughfares  as  the  Jung- 
fernstieg,  Alsterdamm,  Grosse  und  Hohe  Bleichen,  Alter 
und  Neuerwall,  Herrmann  and  Ferdinandstrasse,  Speer- 
sort,  Schauenburgerstrasse,  etc.,  etc.,  are  exceptions.  The 
grading  and  plastering  otherwise  is  decidedly  a  credit  to 
the  municipal  government  and  the  street  department  in 
particular.  The  cleanliness  is  greatly  aided  by  the  many 
channels,  broad  and  narrow,  which  cross  the  city  in  every 
direction.  All  streets,  as  well  as  the  public  buildings, 
have  ample  gas  supply.* 

Follow  me  and  I  shall  take  you  in  imagination  to  the 
Esplanade,  thence  to  the  Alster,  after  which  I  shall  close 
this  letter,  else  you  ma}^  be  tempted  to  apply  the  yard- 
measure  to  it.  But,  Hamburg  is  interesting  enough  to 
engage  one  in  writing  letters  of  this  length  every  day. 

One  has  to  visit  the  "Esplanade"  either  early  in  the 
morning  or  late  at  night.    Hamburg  is  encircled  by  what 


*Remember,  kind  reader,  that  this,  as  well  as  all  the  following 
descriptions  were  written  long  ago.  Progress  has  since  wrought 
wonders,  for  the  public-spirited  people  of  Hamburg  spare  no  ex- 
pense nor  trouble  to  make  their  city  as  attractive  as  possible. — 
Transl. 


46  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Tvas  fonnerly  known  as  the  * '  Def enseditch. "  As  this 
ditch  had  to  be  well  planned  in  order  to  fit  the  difference 
of  height  between  the  Alster  and  Elbe  waters,  the  level 
of  the  latter  being  much  lower  than  that  of  the  former,  it 
is  truly  astonishing  that  both  depth  and  width  of  this 
"defense  ditch"  vary  according  to  the  height  of  the  part 
of  town  it  cuts  into;  and  measures,  in  places,  from  forty 
to  one  hundred  and  twenty,  at  others  from  sixty  to  two 
hundred  feet,  thus  resembling  a  river  of  some  importance. 
Where  the  waters  of  this  belt  wash  the  city  proper,  a 
more  or  less  high  wall  has  been  erected,  which  keeps  in 
exact  parallel  with  the  zigzag  of  the  ditch  itself.  In 
later  years  this  wall  has  been  utilized  in  beautifying  the 
city.  In  many  cases,  parks  of  considerable  beauty  have 
thus  been  created.  As  such  a  picturesque  chain  of  im- 
provements from  Berlin  Station,  to  the  Upper  Harbor, 
thence  to  the  Harbor  Gate,  measures  nearly  three  English 
miles,  and  appears  with  a  width  of  two  to  seven  hundred 
feet,  you  will  easily  imagine  the  impression  such  a  sight 
affords  to  visitors.  Hamburg  is  indeed  to  be  envied,  for, 
as  a  matter  of  fact,  not  a  city  in  Northern  Germany  can 
boast  of  such  a  promenade,  such  artistic  improvements, 
botanical  and  otherwise.  True,  Berlin  has  its  *'Thier- 
garten,"  larger,  perhaps,  but  it  is,  after  all,  but  a  tame 
comparison  with  these ,  promenades,  which  end  at  the 
''Stintfang, "  with  which  I  have  already  attempted  to 
acquaint  you.  The  fact*  that  I  loiter  every  day  in  the 
"Esplanade"  does  not  require  special  mention,'  as  every- 
thing is  so  fresh,  so  green,  and  the  happy  birds  sing 
merry  spring  songs;  why  should  not  man,  both  young  and 
old,  inhale  the  balmy  air  in  long  draughts'?  Does  it  sur- 
prise you  that  I  roam  about  for  hours  during  my  en- 
forced stay?  This  is  the  very  time  of  the  year  which  our 
only  Heine  describes  in  his  beautiful  lines; 

"Tm  wunderschonen  Monat  Mai 
Als  alle  Knospen  sprangen 
Da  ist  in  meinem  Herzen 
Die  Liebe  aufgegangen." 


BERLIN  TO  HAMBURG  47 

(In  the  wonderfully  beautiful  month  of  May 

When  all  the  buds  are  unfolding, 

Then  Love  arises  in  my  innermost  Heart.) 

The  Jungfernstieg  and  Alster  basins  with  surrounding 
promenades  and  villas  have  been  so  often  described  and 
pictured  that  it  does  not  need  my  attempt.  But  one  scene 
has  not  been  included  by  traveling  reporters,  the  fairy- 
like appearance  at  night  when  thousands  of  gaslights 
convert  darkness  into  day,  and  envelop  the  crowds  which 
take  their  evening  strolls  along  the  magnificent  prom- 
enades while  thousands  of  illuminated  palaces  along  the 
Jungfernstieg  and  Alsterdamm  are  reflected  upon  the 
mirror-liJve  dark  blue  waters  of  the  Alster.  This  is  hardly 
describable  and  I  willingly  desist  from  further  attempts. 
You  will  probably  have  to  bum  midnight  candles  to  fin- 
ish reading  this  letter,  though  you  may  have  started 
early  enough  in  the  day.    Next  time,  more. 

Good  bye!  Love,  my  heart's  love,  to  all  who  love  me! 
I  write  no  names,  but  I  have  forgotten  none.  However, 
before  anyone  else,  I  kisg  you,  my  father  and  mother,  a 
thousand  times,  knowing  full  well  that  no  one  loves  me 
'like  the  dear  ones  at  home. 

(Signed)     FRANZ  LECOUVREUE. 

Herewith  an  extract  from  a  San  Francisco  letter: 

Extract. 

from  the  letter  of  a  young  merchant,  E.  B.,  dated  San 
Francisco,  Januar>^  29tli,   1851: 

Among  the  papers  which  I  lately  received,  there  are  two  con- 
taining articles  about  California.  These  articles  are  so  full  of 
untruths  that  I  should  surely  send  in  rejoinders,  if  my  time  would 
permit  it.  As  it  is,  this  short  communication  of  a  private  nature, 
will  have  to  do.  The  exaggerated  description  of  the  horrible 
attack  upon  Sacramento  City  was  nothing  more  or  less  than  the 
ordinary  assembling  and  dispersing  of  a  common  mob.  The 
murders  and  incendiary  attempts  mentioned  are  purely  imaginary. 

As  far  as  San  Francisco  is  concerned  the  writer  was  not  alto- 


48  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

gether  wrong.  But  if  "Hell,"  with  which  the  same  person  com- 
pares it,  has  no  worse  features,  nor  greater  horrors,  the  poor 
souls  of  the  damned  will  have  a  comparatively  good  time.  Dante, 
the  immortal  Italian  poet,  describes  that  part  of  the  Hereafter 
with  quite  different  colorings,  and,  as  he  is  said  to  have  been 
there,  in  a  trance,  I  suppose  he  is  an  authority  in  that  particular, 
as  I  claim  my  own  right  to  describe  San  Francisco  as  I  find  it. 

The  timid  author  of  the  letters  afore  mentioned  should  also 
have'  considered  the  fact  that  it  takes  fully  two  months  before 
the  public  over  there  sees  or  hears  of  it  and  that  such  a  space  of 
time  alone  is  sufficient  to  bring  about  the  most  wonderful  effects 
and  changes,  in  a  country  like  this.  We  have  strong  breezes  in 
summer-time,  yes,  and  occasional  sand-storms  but,  that  people 
are  actually  in  danger  of  being  enveloped  by  sand  beyond  recog- 
nition, is  a  myth.  Since  last  October,  the  streets  have  been 
planked  and  this  has  therefore  put  almost  an  end  to  local  sand- 
storms. The  climate  itself  is  healthy  and  strengthening  and  only 
he  who  ignores  the  most  ordinary  precautions,  which  every  cli- 
mate requires,  particularly  of  a  stranger,  will  suffer  sickness,  and 
very  often  blame  the  country  or  the  people  in  the  long  run,  rather 
than  his  own  carelessness.  As  to  crimes,  robberies,  murders,  we 
find  them  the  world  over,  even  where  the  best  organized  police 
forces  try  to  ]5revent  them,  why  then  should  not  a  new  coimtry 
like  this  have  them,  where  there  is  so  much  of  the  tough  element 
and  no  pasport-revision  or  other  means  of  banishment  ?  Gambling 
houses  are  running,  it  is  true  but,  is  it  not  likewise  true  that  they 
are  carrying  on  their  nefarious  work  in  the  best  regulated  cities 
abroad?  Is  it  only  very  recently  that  the  Paris  authorities  re- 
vised the  Ordinances  against  gambling  and  are  not  our  German 
Watering  resorts  afilicted  with  evils  of  a  very  similar  nature? 
Or  docs  the  fact  that  the  latter  cases  provide  an  annual  income 
for  certain  princes  change  the  criminal  aspect?  Well,  in  this 
country  the  people  are  the  sovereign  power  and  the  profit  derived 
from  such  establishments  fills  the  pockets  of  the  citizens  who  have 
just  as  much  right  to  it  as  the  "Princes  *by  the  Grace  of  God." 

"Progressive  education,"  continues  the  San  Francisco  cor- 
respondent, "helps  to  wipe  out  this  evil  and  as  pub'lic  opinion 
is  decidedl}  against  it,  the  time  is  close  at  hand  when  the  people 
will  bring  about  a  welcome  change.     In  fact,  I  just  read  in  to- 


*The  translator  wishes  to  remind  the  reader  that  this  letter  had 
been  written  in  San  Francisco,  even  before  Mr.  Lecouvreur's  de- 
parture from  home,  and  merely  had  been  enclosed  in  his  May 
letter  to  the  latter's  parents,  as  it  contained  a  refutation  of  former 
■publications  in  provincial  organs,  which  had  prejudiced  the  fam- 
ily very  much  against  young  Frank's  desire  to  choose  San  Fran- 
cisco for  his  future  home. 


BERLIN  TO  HAMBURG  49 

day's  paper  that  a  number  of  citizens  from  'Central  Sharp  Dis- 
trict' have  signed  a  petition  for  the  removal  of  gambling  dens. 
If  a  murder  occurs  in  such  places,  we  need  not  be  astonished, 
that  the  people  take  little  notice  of  it,  as  the  American  does  not 
waste  many  words,  where  he  feels  that  it  cannot  mend  matters. 
Every  one  knows  what  he  has  to  face  in  such  places,  particularly 
if  the  luck  should  come  his  way  and,  if  he  nevertheless  visits 
them,  he  will  have  to  take  his  medicine  in  case  of  trouble.  If  I 
choose  to  enter  certain  establishments  along  the  Hamburg  Water- 
front or  in  any  other  large  city,  I  may  run  the  same  danger, 
though  I  be  in  the  midst  of  European  civilization. 

There  is  quite  a  good  deal  of  building  going  on  here  and  solid 
brick  structures  find  universal  favor.  Sidewalks  too,  are  being 
laid ;  carriages  for  hire  are  to  be  had  at  the  market  place  and  a 
drive  about  town  costs  five  dollars.  French  shoe-blacks  will  give 
your  shoes  an  immaculate  "shine"  for  a  suitable  compensation. 
French  and  English  theaters,  concert  halls,  balls,  Olympic  games 
and  circus  companies  offer  quite  a  variety  of  amusements.  There 
is  actually  talk  of  a  gas  plant,  which  some  enterprising  men  ex- 
pect to  erect  before  very  long.  Does  not  such  a  progress  give  us 
a  hopeful  outlook  for  next  year?  Agriculture  too  has  its  tri- 
umphs. We  are  enjoying  the  finest  cauliflower,  the  best  of  pota- 
toes, turnips,  cabbage  and  many  other  vegetables.  But  flour  and 
butter  are  still  imported  as  there  is  not  yet  enough  of  the  local 
product,  though  it  will  not  be  long  before  that  too,  will  be  a  part 
of  our  'Home  Industry.' " 


LETTER  NO.  Ill 


Hamburg,  May  16,  1851. 
I  liave  always  maintained  and,  still  more,  have  always 
found  my  convictions  coufinned,  that  ships  as  well  as 
limnan  beings,  often  reveal  their  character  by  their  out- 
ward appearance.  To  the  initiated  they  are  just  like 
men,  at  times  light-headed  and  frivolous;  again  serious 
and  solemn,  pleasant,  sullen,  melancholy,  easy  going, 
swift,  clumsy,  top-heavy,  some,  lacking  in  character,  and 
other  solid  as  a  rock.  In  the  last  named  category  I  count 
the  "Victoria."  Having  ascertained  at  Ivnohr  and  Bur- 
chard's,  the  shipbrokers,  that  this  vessel,  which  is  to  carry 
us  to  the  New  World,  was  still  in  dock  at  the  well-known 
Godefroy's  AVharf,  which  is  located  on  the  Hanoverian 
side,  in  the  village  " Reiherstieg, "  island  of  Steinwerder, 
our  curiosity  became  duly  aroused.  We  hired  a  little  sail- 
boat and  went  to  examine  the  vessel,  which  was  to  be 
our  floating  home  for  many  a  day.  The  "Victoria"  is  a 
fine  bark,  carrying  about  three  hundrea  tons;  but  owing 
to  the  fact  that  she  was  heavily  laden  and  consequently 
deep  in  the  water,  we  saw  but  very  little  of  her  hull. 
Shape  and  frame  are  just  as  I  like  to  see  them,  well  cut, 
broad  overleaning  bow,  notwithstanding  which  the  ves- 
sel is  graceful  in  build,  and  has  an  evenly-running  deck, 
without  quarter.  As  a  few  planks  had  been  tem])orarily 
removed  from  one  of  the  sides,  I  was  able  to  obtain  a 
glimpse  through  the  solid,  closely  set  ribs.  The  Victoria 
is  painted,  as  is  customary  with  ocean  vessels  of  its  kind, 
l)lack,  with  broad  white  trimming  around  the  waist,  in- 
cluding eight  bulls-eyes  for  small  cannon  use  on  either 
side.  Tlie  riggings  are  very  strong  and  heavy,  well  pro- 
portioned, too;  the  sail-yards  are  unusually  broad  and 
give  the  ship  almost  the  appearance  of  a  man-of-war.  To 

50 


HAMBURG:    GENERAL  IMPRESSIONS  51 

be  brief,  I  am  extremely  well  pleased  with  my  explora- 
tion. Unless  appearances  are  absolutely  deceiving,  I 
venture  to  say  we  shall  have  as  good  a  vessel  during  our 
voyage  as  could  possibly  be  desired.  There  seems  tO'  be 
a  scarcity  of  transatlantic  passengers,  at  least  to  South 
America.  So  far,  we  three  are  the  only  ones,  according 
to  Knolir  and  Burchard.  In  mentioning  the  ''Victoria" 
I  cannot  omit  describing  some  harbor  sights.  Yesterday 
1  saw  four  vessels,  bound  for  New  York,  take  on  board 
their  human  cargo— the  "Gutenberg,"  the  "Leibnitz," 
the  "Oder"  and— the  name  of  the  fourth  vessel  escaped 
my  memory.  All  were  immense,  three-masters,  of  at  least 
six  hundred  tons  each.  The  sight  of  wholesale  shipment 
of  emigrants  is  truly  amazing  and  no  one  described  it  bet- 
ter, in  fewer  words,  than  our  noble  Ferdinand  Freiligrath 
in  his  poem  "Die  Auswanderer"  (The  Emigrants"*). 

One  has  only  to  walk  along  the  shore  for  half  an  hour 
to  see  representatives  of  all  German  Principalities  (this 
was  fifty  years  ago. — Tr.) ;  here  he  may  listen  to  the  many 
dialects  and  look  wonderingly  at  the  gay  costumes,  pecul- 
iar to  the  various  sections  of  our  beloved  Fatherland. 
Men,  women  and  children  were  lying,  standing  or  loung- 
ing upon  boxes,  bundles  or  mattresses,  waiting  for  the 
wherry-boat,  which  was  to  take  them  and  their  belong- 
ings on  board  the  ship.  These  Hamburg  wherry-boats  are 
very  numerous  on  the  lower  Elbe  and  serve  in  forwarding 
irmnense  cargoes  to  and  fro.  They  are  indispensable  for 
the  wholesaler;  and  an  occasional  strike  among  the 
"Ewerftihrer"  or  wherrymen  is  as  much  dreaded  as  that 
of  the  longshoremen,  though  they  are  two  very  distinct 
sets  of  worivingmen.  One  can  witness  such  emigration 
scenes  several  times  every  week,  though  not  always  in 
as  great  a  measure  as  I  saw  it  yesterday.  The  reason  for 
this  is  that  the  influx  of  emigrants  is  the  largest  about  the 
beginning  and  middle  of  the  month.  There  were  at  least 
eight  or  nine  hundred  people  shipped  yesterday,  as  it 


*This  poet  is  the  Longfellow  of  Germany,  whose  "Hiawatha'' 
and  other  poems  he  so  beautifully  translated. — J.  C.  B. 


52  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

was  said  that  all  four  vessels  were  well  crowded,  not  only 
witli  German  people,  but  with  large  numbers  of  Slavoni- 
ans, Austrians  and  Scandinavians  in  their  picturesque  at- 
tire. 

During  the  first  days  of  this  week,  there  embarked  a 
large  number  of  Schleswig-Holstein  soldiers,  who  had 
been  enlisted  for  Brazil;  they  sailed  for  Rio  de  Janeiro 
on  the  Hamburg  bark  "The  Colonist."  What  a  tribe! 
I  would  not  have  trusted  my  corpse  to  be  shipped  with 
them.  Such  specimens  of  humanity!— ragged,  drunk,  day 
after  day,  with  but  a  very  few  honorable  exceptions. 
With  two  hundred  and  ten  of  these  fellows  on  board  of 
the  "Colonist,"  which,  at  the  most,  can  hold  but  three 
hundred  tons  of  cargo  (sixty  English  tons),  you  may 
fancy  how  those  poor  fellows  were  crowded  together. 
Tliis  first  expedition  is  soon  to  be  followed  by  another 
one  from  Altona  on  Godefroy's  "Caesar,"  a  vessel  of 
about  twice  the  capacity  of  the  "Colonist,"  and  which 
is  to  take  four  hundred  "impressed  soldiers."  It  is  said 
that  the  government  has  put  a  stop  to  foreign  enlistments 
and,  indeed,  one  does  not  see  quite  as  many  of  these  fel- 
lows, who  are  easily  recognized  by  their  ragged  appear- 
ance, with  the  Brazilian  colors,  red,  yellow  and  green, 
displayed  on  their  straw  hats,  and  the  loud  noise  they 
make  in  roaming  about  the  streets. 

I  have  just  retumed  from  a  walk  along  the  harbor. 
At  the  "Baumthor"  I  witnessed  the  departure  of  a  bark, 
which  was  likewise  filled  with  the  same  class  of  "Brazil- 
ians." All  were  joyful  and  apparently  contented,  while 
I  felt  overcome  by  sadness.  When  the  sails  began  to  fill 
the  vessel  slowly  glided  down  the  river;  all  joined  in  the 
familiar  Gennan  folksong:  "Wlien  I  come,  when  I  come, 
when  I  come  home  again,  I  shall  call,  sweetheart,  on 
thee!"  Poor  fellows,  will  any  of  you  ever  return  to  see 
your  sweethearts?  True,  nobody  who  goes  out  in  search 
of  a  new  home,  can  answer  that  question.  Happy  he  who 
does  it  in  a  joyful  frame  of  mind.  Toward  evening  there 
arrived  the  German  man-of-war  "Ernest  August"  from 
Bremen,    a   magnificent   vessel   of   unusual    size.     Both 


HAMBURG:    GExNERAL  IMPRESSIONS  53 

masts,  being  rigged  like  schooners,  overtowered  many  a 
handsome  three-master.  The  German  flag,  with  the  eagle 
in  golden  field,  waved  bravely  in  the  air.  May  it  be  hon- 
ored everj^where  as  on  this  proud  steamer!  Unfortunate- 
ly I  received  bad  news  on  the  arrival  of  the  "Ernest  Au- 
gust, ' '  news  which  had  a  depressing  effect  upon  me.  Re- 
membering that  Fritz  Benefeld  had  served  on  board  of 
this  vessel,  I  inquired  after  him  and  heard  from  one  of 
the  cadets  that  he  has  contracted  dropsy  in  the  chest,  and 
little  hope  is  entertained  for  his  recovery.  He  was  left 
in  good  care  at  Bremen.  Too  bad,  he  was  a  brave,  good 
fellow!  However,  I,  too,  am  said  to  be  a  brave  good  fel- 
low, and  shall  have  to  die  some  day,  nevertheless! 

May  17,  1851. 
During  the  whole  of  last  week  we  have  enjoyed  unin- 
terruptedly the  most  beautiful  weather,  which  added 
greatly  to  our  pleasure  during  a  number  of  little  excur- 
sions into  the  outskirts  of  Hamburg.  Unfortunately  one 
has  to  limit  one's  time  as  the  closing  of  the  city  gates  at 
stated  hours  of  night  prevents  the  enjoyment  of  an  ex- 
tended recreation.*  Last  Sunday,  for  instance,  we  walked 
across  the  so-called  "Hamburg  Mountain"  to  Altona 
and  thence  to  Ottensen.  When  leaving  the  inner 
city  by  the  Millerngate,  one  is  confronted  by  an  im- 
mense lawn,  the  walks  of  which  are  lined  with  beautiful 
trees  on  either  side;  the  center  is  cut  by  a  fine,  broad 
avenue,  which,  as  you  approach  Saint  Pauli,  is  adorned 
with  nice  new  residences,  and  leads  directly  into  the  main 
thoroughfare  of  the  above  mentioned  suburb.  This  street 
is  called  the  Eeeperbahn,  which  name  is  the  Low  German 
for  rope-makers'  alley,  said  tradesmen  having  formerly 
occupied  these  parts  and  some  of  their  long  narrow  work- 
shops, which  resemble  modem  bowling  alleys,  are  still 
shown  in  the  neighborhood.  This  avenue,  which,  as  I 
said  before,  runs  from  the  Millemthor  to  the  Reeper- 
bahn,  is  called  '  *  Hamburger  Berg, ' '  though  one  can  hard- 


*The  wall  and  the  crates  are  no  more  in  existence,  though  the 
old  names  still  mark  the  respective  places. — Transl. 


54     EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ly  distinguish  it  on  a  week  day  from  any  ordinary"  large 
square  in  other  cities.  But  the  "Hamburger  Berg"  on 
Sundays  is  well  worth  seeing.  Fancy  to  yourself  the 
wildest  noise,  such  as  you  hear  in  county  fairs  in  small 
towns,  only  twenty  or  thirty  times  worse,  with  crowds 
con-esponding  to  the  noise  and  you  will  obtain  a  fairly 
good  picture  of  the  scene,  which  enlivens  the  "Hambur- 
ger Berg"  on  Sunday  afternoons.  Everything  to  be  seen 
and  heard,  as  long  as  there  is  money  in  circulation.  There 
are :  Penny  museums,  acrobats,  menageries,  dancing  bears, 
monkeys  on  hand-organs,  manipulated  by  Italians,  who 
have  trained  the  little  animals  to  present  a  cup  for  col- 
lection of  stray  pennies;  organs  of  all  kinds,  dimensions 
and  sounds;  harp  players  of  either  sex,  and  in  their  re- 
spective national  garbs;  merry-go-rounds;  wild  men  from 
Borneo  and  close-by  realms;  Punch  and  Judy  shows,  and 
thousands  of  other  things.  Between  the  tents  there  are 
tables,  filled  with  southern  fruits  and  sweets,  at  astonish- 
ingly low  prices.  Italian  oranges  are  exhibited  on  these 
occasions  in  mai^^^elous  quantities.  Thousands  and  thou- 
sands of  people,  rei5Tesenting  all  nations  and  classes  of 
humanity  crowd  the  walks,  eating,  drinking,  smoking, 
merry-making.  Most  sight-seers  are  seafaring  men,  sol- 
diers, servant  girls  in  their  odd  Hamburg  style  of  dress- 
ing; the  ever  present,  ever  shouting,  ever  drumming, 
trumpeting,  whistling,  happy  Hamburger  boys  are  not  to 
be  forgotten;  their  number  is  legion,  their  watchword: 
fun.  After  one  has  taken  in  all  the  sights  and  side-show 
wonders  of  the  "Hamburger  Berg"  one  arrives  at  St. 
Pauli  proper,  which  is  the  most  notorious  suburb  of  the 
metropolis.  This  notoriety,  however,  fits  only  that  part 
of  the  locality  where  sailors,  ferry-men  (Ewerfiihrer) 
and  the  rougher  shore  and  saloon  element  have  their 
abodes  and  stamping  grounds.  The  upper  St.  Pauli  has 
nice,  respectable,  well  populated  streets,  which  show  lit- 
tle life  on  work  days,  a  strange  fact,  which  all  suburbs  of 
Hamburg  seem  to  have  in  common,  as  the  only  parts 
which  are  populated  during  working  hours  are  the  busi- 
ness quarters,  the  exchange  and  the  water  front,  where 


HAMBURG:    GENERAL  IMPRESSIONS  55 

the  world's  commerce  is  enacted  par  excellence.  Tlie 
border  line  between  St.  Pauli  and  the  adjoining  city  of 
Altona  is  marked  by  a  ditch  six  to  eight  feet  wide,  the 
odor  of  which  suggested  a  change  to  the  least  sensitive. 
Unless  one  pays  special  attention,  the  entry  into  Hostein 
territory  is  scarcely  noticeable;  the  streets  run  right 
through,  and  the  stjie  of  building  seems  to  indicate  no 
special  change,  so  that  the  aforementioned  ditch  and,  per- 
haps, the  change  of  names  of  the  thoroughfares,  consti- 
tute the  only  landmark.  Altona,  meaning  ' '  too-near-by, ' ' 
ia  built  in  the  same  style  as  the  old  Hansatown.  Its  exist- 
ence is  the  outcome  of  a  bet  between  rival  merchants  of 
Hamburg.  The  streets  are  mostly  crooked  and  naiTow, 
the  houses  old-fashioned,  tall,  gloomy,  each  one  of  them 
brings  to  my  mind  the  ghost  of  some  petrified  mayor  or 
burgomaster,  or  senator,  caused,  I  presume,  by  the  abun- 
dance of  rare  old  sculpture  and  relief  work  which  adorns 
the  facades.  There  are,  of  course,  a  few  real  nice  streets 
and  places,  the  Pallmaille,  being  the  most  noteworthy  on 
account  of  its  width,  which  admits  of  four  avenues, 
adorned  with  linden  trees.  Magnificent  residences  at- 
tract the  eye  on  either  side  of  this  beautiful  thoroughfare 
and  remind  one  of  the  celebrated  "Unter  den  Linden" 
in  Berlin.  The  monument  of  Conrad  von  Bliicher,  sec- 
ond cousin  to  the  immortal  General  Bliicher-Wahlstadt, 
is  anotliei'  ornament  of  Pallmaille;  in  him  the  inhab- 
itants have  honored  one  of  their  noblest  citizens.  The 
immense  steam  levers  at  the  freight  section  of  the  large 
station  of  the  Altona-Kiel  Railroad  aroused  my  interest 
gTeatly.  The  station  is  well  located  on  the  high  bank  of 
the  river  Elbe  and  the  aforementioned  steam  levers  lift 
from  a  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  weight  with 
an  ease  and  a.  rapidity  that  is  truly  astonishing.  It  takes 
but  two  minutes  to  raise  such  loads  and  place  them 
wherever  wanted.  These  levers  are  constantly  at  work 
and  well  worth  watching;  they  operate  even  at  night 
when  business  is  brisk.  Passing  the  railroad  station,  one 
immediately  enters  the  village  of  Ottensen,  just  as  un- 
suspectingly as  is  the  crossing  of  the  Hamburg-Altona 


56  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

border.  In  the  middle  of  this  village  stands  the  church, 
surrounded  as  is  customary  in  our  own  villages  of  East 
Prussia,  by  the  churchyard.  Ottensen  has  three  cele- 
brated graves,  beautifully  described  in  Friedrich  Etick- 
ert's  poem;  "The  Graves  at  Ottensen."  The  first  one  is 
marked  by  a  simple  stone ;  it  is  located  close  to  the  church 
and  seldom  without  flowers,  which  his  countrjanen  and 
foreign  pilgrims  lovingly  place  upon  the  last  resting  place 
of  one  of  Germany's  greatest  poets,  F.  G.  Klopstock,  the 
author  of  the  "Messiah."  The  second  grave  of  note, 
much  larger,  but  just  as  unpretentious,  is  a  sad  reminder 
of  the  cruelties  of  war.  In  1813,  when  Napoleon's  most 
heartless  general.  Marshal  Louis  Nicolas  Davoust,  Duke 
of  Auerstadt,  Prince  of  Eckmiihl  compelled  General 
Tettenbom  (a  German  commander  in  temporar}^  service 
of  Russia)  to  vacate  Hamburg,  he  imposed  a  fine  of  forty- 
eight  million  marks  upon  the  city  and  crowned  his  god- 
less work  by  driving  thirty  thousand  poor  from  their 
homes  and  out  of  the  city  during  the  ice  cold  Cliristmas 
night,  while  some  of  his  hordes  set  fire  to  that  quarter 
of  the  town,  just  vacated,  after  appropriating  the  little 
they  could  use.  A  holocaust  of  eleven  hundred  persons, 
mostly  aged  or  very  3'oung,  who  were  unable  to  with- 
stand starvation,  cold  and  sickness,  were  found  dead  or 
dj^ing  on  Cliristmas  day  in  the  fields  near  Ottensen,  while 
the  church  bells  were  announcing  the  coming  of  the  Sa- 
vior! And  the  remains  of  these  victims  are  mostly  bur- 
ied in  this  simple  spot  of  gentle,  all-embracing  mother 
earth.* 


*A  recent  article  stated  that  the  descendants  of  Marshal  Da- 
voust were  endeavoring  to  fasten  the  responsibility  for  the  above- 
mentioned  crime  upon  subordinates,  and  circumstances  beyond  his 
control.  To  them  and  such  as  they,  the  prophecy  of  Riickert  is 
addressed  in  words  like  these : 

"In  this  grave  lie  buried  a  generation  nigh, 

"Who  from  their  silent  chamber  to  the  God  of  Justice 

■cry, 
"They  call  for  help  from  Heaven, 
"Out  of  their  humble  grave, 
"To  Him,  Who  loves  the  lowly  , 

"And  frowns  upon  the  knave/'r— Transl. 


HAMBURG:    GENEELVL  D.IPRESSIONS  57 

Close  to  tlie  wall  of  the  little  church  one  finds  the  third 
grave.  Little  is  left  of  the  humble  tablet  which  once  bore 
the  name  of  the  silent  dweller,  Charles  William  Ferdi- 
nand, Duke  of  Brunswick,  who  had  been  a.  true  successor 
of  the  long  line  of  noble  rulers,  and  who  had  proven  his 
great  valor  and  love  of  country  by  laying  down  his  life 
in  the  battle  of  Auerstadt,  in  which  the  infamous  Davoust 
won  for  himself  the  title  of  ^'Duke."  Strange  coinci- 
dent! The  noble  Brunswick,  wounded  unto  death,  was 
taken  to  Ottensen,  to  find  his  future  resting  place,  in  the 
same  village  graveyard,  where  the  victims  of  Davoust 's 
Christmas  holocaust  were  to  share  his  fate,  seven  years 
later. 

Leaving  this  memorable  spot,  we  do  not  find  much  time 
for  meditation  as  the  close-by  "Rainville"  soon  con- 
vinces the  stroller,  that  things  are  yet  very  much  alive 
in  Ottensen.  Rainville  is  a  favorite  pleasure  resort  for 
Hamburg  and  Altona  working  people.  It  is  buUt  in  ter- 
races on  the  high  bank  of  the  Elbe,  and  consequently  of- 
fers a  beautiful  view  of  the  Hanoverian  mountains,  which 
adorn  the  opposite  shore.  Rainville  is  particularly  well 
patronized  on  Sundays,  on  account  of  the  delightful  con- 
certs, which  draw  the  music-loving  middle  class.  Last 
Sunday,  for  instance,  a  band  of  fifty  musicians  from  the 
Italian  Infantry  Regiment,  Vv'ellington,  enraptured  the 
hearers.  What  music!  Not  until  then  did  I  realize  how 
dances,  especially  waltzes,  ought  to  be  played.  The  Aus- 
trian bands,  for  instance,  play  hardly  anything  else, 
though  occasionally  they  give  a  march  and  more  rarely 
an  easy  selection  from  some  favorite  opera.  However,  no 
matter  what  their  program  may  call  for,  they  play  their 
parts  well.  Difficult  compositions  are  not  chosen,  pre- 
sumably because  the  musicians  realize  that  their  audience 
here  would  not  fully  appreciate  such  efforts.  This  is  true 
in  most  cases,  where,  as  in  Rainville,  the  audience  is  ex- 
ceptionally large.  Eveiybody  seems  to  give  the  Italians 
the  preference  over  their  rivals.  We  remained  last  Sun- 
day several  hours  in  Rainville,  as  I  could  neither  sat- 
isfy my  longing  for  the  beautiful  views  which  it  offers, 


58  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

nor  did  I  tire  of  listening  to  the  beautiful,  lively  music, 
notwithstanding  that  the  Austrians  had  their  turn  this 
time.  Toward  evening  we  returaed  to  our  dwelling  place 
by  the  way  of  the  picturesque  suburb  of  Eimsbiittel. 

Hamburg,  May  18th,  1851. 
Such  a  walk  as  I  took  a  week  ago  and  which  I  endeav- 
ored to  describe  to  you  in  ray  letter  of  the  day  before  yes- 
terday, offers  much  diversion  and  much  food  for  thought- 
ful minds.  "Whenever  the  Hamburg  weather  is  favorable 
on  Sunday  afternoons,  one  can  see  all  Hamburg  on  foot, 
to  inhale  a  breath  of  fresh,  country  air,  or  of  the  sea 
breeze,  in  one  or  another  resort.  Of  course,  one  has  to 
be  a  good  sprinter  to  get  the  full  benefit,  as  it  includes 
often  miles  of  walking  upon  stony  sidewalks  before  he 
reaches  the  country  roads.  Those  who  have  cannages 
at  their  disposal  are,  of  course,  at  an  advantage.  All 
hotels,  inns,  coffee  gardens,  beer  gardens,  from  the  most 
select  to  the  poor  man's  resorts,  are  crowded  with  hu- 
manity, though  the  number  of  such  countr}^  resorts  is 
truly  amazing.  Everywhere  is  music,  from  grand  or- 
chestra concerts,  to  jolain  dancing  hall  music,  and  the 
Hamburg  people  do  love  to  dance,  so  much  so,  that  I  be- 
lieve they  would  feel  very  much  out  of  place  where  music 
and  dancing  are  not  at  least  a  part  of  the  program.  The 
dances  are  the  ever  present,  unavoidable  gallop  and  the 
so-called  Rhinelander  or  Polish  Radowaczka,  in  which  the 
merry-makers  constantly  change  position  from  right  to 
left— which  is  certainly  very  amusing  to  look  upon,  as 
most  of  these  people  know  quite  well  how  to  dance.  Let 
it  be  understood,  however,  that  the  dancing  public  varies 
in  the  matter  of  etiquette  and  manners,  according  to  the 
resort  they  frequent,  though  it  struck  me  very  peculiarly 
that  the  women  dancers  seem  to  be  less  particular 
whether  they  dressed  in  silks  and  satin,  or  in  the  plain 
cotton  of  the  farm  hand:  girls  as  well  as  boys  are  em- 
ployed on  German  fanns  and  work  in  harmony;  they  are 
simply  all  out  for  a  good  time,  caring  little  for  ceremony 
and  etiquette.    The  fact  that  most  of  them  address  each 


HAMBURG:    GENERAL  IMPRESSIONS  59 

other  with  the  familiar  "thou"  characterizes  the  free 
and  easy  spirit  which  jorevails  during  these  Sunday  after- 
noons. One  thing  has  surprised  me  especially:  the  ele- 
gance and  luxury  with  which  places  of  public  amuse- 
ments are  fitted  up;  I  am  at  a  loss  to  describe  them,  as 
what  I  witnessed  in  Berlin  does  not  begin  to  approach 
them.  This  is  not  only  true  of  the  larger  establishments, 
such  as  the  Tonhalle,  Appollo-Saal  and  many  others,  but 
even  ordinary  beer  and  wine  resorts  everywhere  abound 
in  luxury.  The  gardens  have  generally  long  rows  of 
beautiful  arbors  of  choicest  climbers,  often  costly  impor- 
tations from  foreign  lands.  These  arbors  are  so  arranged 
that  each  division  has  its  table  around  which  green 
benches  complete  the  furniture,  inviting  the  visitors  and 
their  friends  to  a  pleasant  rendezvous,  be  it  en  famille 
or  otherwise.  And  it  is  in  just  such  places  where  the 
tired  clerks  and  storekeepers,  as  well  as  others,  meet  to 
talk  shop,  or  more  likely  to  divert  themselves  in  various 
ways  as  inclination  may  suggest.  These  beer  gardens 
are  seldom  peopled  in  day  time— except  Sundays— but  by 
eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  you  will  find  every  one  of 
them  crowded,  and  merry  laughter  fills  the  air.  The 
inner  halls  of  these  resorts  are  mostly  well  frescoed  or 
elegantly  draped  and  papered.  Be  it  said  to  the  credit 
of  the  Hamburg  people  that  they  are  very  moderate  in 
the  use  of  alcoholic  drinks.  One  may  sit  for  hours  with 
the  same  glass  of  beer  and  a  cigar,  while  enjoying  a  pleas- 
ant chat  with  a  neighbor.  Though  there  happen  to  be 
nearly  thirty  thousand  Austrian  soldiers  in  and  near  the 
city,  one  seldom  sees  them  mix  with  citizens  or  partici- 
pate in  public  frolics;  if  they  do,  their  presence  always 
marks  modesty  and  politeness  and  twenty  Austrian  offi- 
cers do  not  make  nearly  as  much  noise  as  four  Prussian 
ensigns.  It  consequently  does  not  surprise  me  that  the 
Austrians  enjoy  a  better  reputation  in  Hamburg  than  the 
Prussians,  who  are  not  at  all  liked  here.* 


*This   statement    is   absolutely   true,    for   the   reason  that   the 
plain,  cosmopolitan-spirited  Hamburger  cannot  and  will  not  bar- 


GO  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

May  19th,  1851. 

The  most  beautiful  floTver  in  the  wreath  of  villages  and 
beauty  spots  which  surround  this  eity  of  many  attrac- 
tions, is  Blankenese,  whither  I  went  a  week  ago  to-day. 
The  banks  of  the  Elbe  from  and  below  Altona  resemble 
in  character  the  ocean  beaches,  and  if  I  were  to  make  a 
comparison  with  our  home  coast  I  should  choose  a  spot 
near  Neukuren,  whei'e  the  little  birch  forest  runs  seem- 
ingly into  the  ocean,  including  the  sea-bordered  land- 
scape near  AVanger-Spitze.    ^^ 

At  the  end  of  two  hours  of  walk  below  Altona,  the 
beach  forms  a  small  bay,  more  picturesque  and  higher 
than  I  have  ever  seen,  in  the  midst  of  which  a  sharp  eye 
may  discover  a  miniature  valley,  from  the  middle  of 
which  arises,  on  terrace-shaped  walls,  the  beautiful  vil- 
lage of  Blankenese.  Every  house,  eveiy  hut  and  bam 
lies  either  in  the  midst  of  pretty  floral  display,  or  is  al- 
most hidden  by  aged,  wide-spreading  trees.  Tlie  terraces 
make  the  laying  out  of  streets  superfluous,  but  here  and 
there  one  finds  stairways  facilitating  access  to  the  dwell- 
ings. No  matter  whether  one  approaches  Blankenese 
from  the  shore  or  from  the  inland  road,  the  same  over- 
powering scene  awaits  the  visitor;  and  strange,  indeed, 
is  the  variation  that  greets  the  eye  on  every  step.  Here 
nature  is  powerfully  fascinating;  one  moment  the  view  of 
the  village  is  completely  hidden  by  a  chestnut  grove, 
while  in  the  next  linden,  acorn  or  fir  trees  barely  permit 
a  glimpse  of  the  sun-kissed  waters  of  the  Elbe  and  the 
mountain  chain  beyond,  which  appear  to  guard  the  king- 
dom of  Hanover.  Blankenese  has  the  appearance  of  a 
mighty  gatekeeper  or  sentinel  at  the  mouth  of  the  Elbe. 
On  the  top  of  the  elevation  is  the  famous  old  Inn  sur- 
rounded by  a  beautifully  laid  out  garden,  from  which 
point  one  can  view  the  rich  Holstein  fann  lands  for  miles, 
and  watch  the  peaceful  herds  enjoying  the  fresh  green 


monize  with  anyone,  who  assumes  to  be  "better  than  thou"  on 
every  occasion.  It  is,  however,  truly  surprising  that  the  young" 
traveller  should  have  been  keen  enough  to  observe  it  during  his 
very  short  stay  in  the  Hansatown. — Transl. 


HAMBURG:    GENERAL  lAIPRESSIONS  61 

pastures.  A  turn  upon  your  heel  and  tlie  scene  has 
changed  from  Nature's  own  garden  to  the  ship-laden 
waters  of  the  Elbe  with  another  view  upon  Hanoverian 
plains,  dimly  visible  in  the  "Far  West."  The  road  from 
Ottensen  to  Blankenese,  in  itself  is  worth  a  good  tramp. 
The  long  line  of  magnificent  residences,  with  their  finely- 
planned  gardens,  of  wealthy  Hamburg  merchants,  de- 
light the  eye  on  either  side  of  the  Boulevard,  for  such  it 
is  in  reality.  The  stately  carriages,  with  their  uniformed 
attendants,  ever  ready  to  do  tlie  bidding  of  their  aristo- 
cratic masters,  are  part  of  the  scene,  which  is  particularly 
enchanting  wherever  a  glimpse  upon  the  waves  of  the 
river  is  to  be  had,  or  where  the  high  hedge  of  hawthorn, 
which  hems  in  the  greater  part  of  the  Eastern  side  of  the 
road,  permits  a  glance  upon  the  afore-described  rural 
scenes  of  Ilolstein.  Though  I  have  tramped  considerably 
through  these  parts,  I  have  not  discovered  any  portion 
of  land  on  which  grain  had  been  raised.  One  only  finds 
squares  of  twelve  to  fifteen  hundred  feet  of  pasture,  each 
square  marked  by  a  formidable  hedge.  I  passed  several 
hours  upon  the  Siillberg  watching  the  ebb  tide,  which 
slowly  compelled  every  vessel  upon  the  river  to  stop  its 
course  for  a  certain  time.  One  by  one,  schooners,  ferry- 
boats, fishing  smacks,  even  little  pleasure  seekers,  which 
but  a  few  minutes  ago  enjoyed  the  gentle  rocking  of  the 
waves,  were  compelled  to  obey  the  law  of  Nature,  which 
makes  it  almost  possible  for  a  man  to  wade  through  the 
river  bottom,  i.  e.,  near  the  shore.  Not  the  slightest 
breeze  could  be  felt.  Here  and  there,  from  more  or  less 
distant  chimneys  arose  small  columns  of  smoke;  now  and 
then  it  conveyed  the  odor  of  fried  fish  and  potatoes,  which 
reminded  me  of  the  approaching  night.  The  moist  sand 
along  the  bank  was  too  inviting  to  be  overlooked,  and  so  I 
chose  it  for  my  return  route  to  the  city.  Deeper  and 
deeper  went  the  setting  sun  with  its  brilliant  colors,  beau- 
tifying the  small  clouds  on  the  azure  sky,  and  recalling 
to  my  mind  the  words  of  Galileo:  ''And  yet  it  moves." 
After  a  while  I  seated  myself  upon  a  large  stone^  watch- 
ing tiny  waves  disappearing  in  the  sand;  the  windows  of 


C2  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  little  fishermen's  huts  shone  reddish  from  across  the 
river,  until  one  after  the  other  apparently  lost  its  bril- 
liancy and  slowly  disappeared  entirely  from  my  horizon. 
The  shadows  grew  until  the  last  glimmer  of  the  setting 
sun  kissed  the  tree  tops  a  hearty  farewell — altogether  a 
scene  beautiful  to  behold.  Soon  all  had  become  a  thing 
of  the  i^ast,  a  mere  remembrance.  The  opposite  hills 
grew  darker  and  difficult  to  recognize.  The  air  was  pure 
and  refreshing  and  so  quiet  that  I  sometimes  fancied  I 
heard  the  ringing  of  bells  such  as  cows  cany  when  out  in 
pasture.  Everything  was  quiet  and  peaceful  around  me, 
while  I  was  writing  in  the  ocean-sand  the  names  of  my 
beloved  ones  in  the  far  away  home.  First  yours,  father, 
then  mother's,  then  the  name  of  my  beloved  Marie,  not 
forgetting  Maurice  close  by.  T^Hien  I  had  finished  my 
dream,  I  continued  my  tramp  homeward,  my  pathway 
being  illumined  by  the  silvery  moonlight,  while  a  thin 
white  fog  commenced  to  veil  the  rural  scenes  across  the 
river.  It  was  late.  AVhen  I  reached  the  gate  it  was 
closed,  which  meant  a  fine  of  four  Hamburg  shillings! 
That  was  certainly  a  damper  to  my  sentimental  cogita- 
tions. What  business  does  a  reputable  merchant's  clerk 
have  to  sit  dreaming  upon  a  stone  and  write  names  in  the 
sands  of  the  Elbe,  making  thereby  a  fool  of  himself? 
Fine:  four  shillings  in  Hamburg  currency! 

May  19th,  p.  m. 

During  the  three  weeks  which  I  have  been  compelled 

to  spend  here  there  has  been  a  fire  and  a  flood.    Tlie  fire 

occurred  one  night  last  week  and  devoured  four  or  five 

houses  on  .''Kehrwieder."*  -  Such  fires  are  not  consid- 


*Translator's  note.— The  old  Kehrwicder  was  a  typical  tene- 
ment district  on  the  waterfront,  inhabited  exclusively  by  long- 
shoremen and  water-rats,  as  the  thousands  of  wherry-men  are 
called  in  Hamburg  dialect.  This  neighborhood  is  now  part  of 
the  magnificent  "bonded  ware-house  district"  called  "Freihafen," 
where  foreign  importations  may  be  stored  as  "transient,"  escap- 
ing thereby  whatever  duty  they  may  1)e  subject  to,  provided  the 
transfer  to  other  parts  occurs  within  a  given  time. 


HAMBURG:    GENERAL  IMPRESSIONS  63 

ered  very  important,  though  it  generally  means  a  loss  of 
one  or  two  houses,  notwithstanding  the  excellent  working 
of  the  local  fire  department,  and  the  fact  that  there  is 
an  abundance  of  water  everywhere  in  the  numberless 
channels  which  are  winding  their  often  crooked  way 
through  the  thoroughfares  of  the  Hansatown.  As  for 
the  relief  work  of  the  fire  department,  it  is  done  most  con- 
scientiously. I  counted  no  less  than  twenty-two  hose 
services,  supplied  by  as  manj"  pumps,  which  were  well 
handled  by  strong  men  and  not  as  at  home,  by  half-grown 
boys.  Taking  all  that  into  consideration,  the  cause  for 
the  rapid  spread  of  the  fire  can  only  be  found  in  the  mis- 
erable construction  of  the  tenements  themselves,  which 
are  mostly  so  crooked,  so  high,  and  in  the  meantime  so 
given  to  decay,  that  the  term  "fire-traps"  would  never 
be  more  appropriately  applied.*  A  real  fire  alarm,  such 
as  causes  the  whole  population  of  Konigsberg  to  turn  out 
at  the  burning  of  a  barn,  is  unknown  here.  The  first 
alarm  signal  in  this  city  is  given  bj"  more  or  less  shots 
from  an  artillery  cannon  on  the  Dammthorwall  gate;  the 
number  of  shots  fired  indicates  the  degree  of  seriousness. 
The  immediate  neighborhood  in  which  a  fire  occurs  re- 
ceives warning  from  the  permanent  tower  guard  of  the 
church  in  the  vicinity  or  parish,  in  which  it  happens. 
These  guards  reside  in  the  church  steeples,  two  or  three 
hundred  feet  from  the  ground.  During  the  conflagration 
of  May  5,  6,  7  and  8,  1842,  there  occurred  a  remarkable 
incident:  The  large  church  of  St.  Nicholas  (Nicolai- 
kirche),  one  of  the  five  gigantic  Lutheran  edifices,  had 
taken  fire  and  no  possible  aid  could  prevent  its  doom. 
While  the    flames    were   approaching    the    magnificent 


*The  translator  remembers  having '  seen  tenement  houses  in 
that  very  district,  which  harbored  one  hundred  and  twenty  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  families  each,  on  a  lot  of  about  45  by  125  feet. 
Jacob  A.  Riis  in  his  world-famous  books  "The  Making  of  an 
American,"  "Children  of  Tenements,"  and  "Battle  with  the 
Slum,"  as  well  as,  "How  the  Other  Half  Lives,"  has  not  exagger- 
ated the  deplorable  state  of  affairs,  which  originated  in  Europe 
and  of  which  rich  old  Hamburg  has  unfortunately  her  share. 


64  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

tower,  all  eyes  were  riveted  upon  the  well-known  balcony 
from  which  the  faithful  guard  (Thumiliuter)  had  sound- 
ed the  tocsin,  or,  at  nine  o'clock,  played  nightly  the  mel- 
odj"  of  some  well-known  hjTnn  for  many  a.  year.  "Word 
had  been  sent  up  that  his  life  was  in  danger,  but  to  no 
avail.  He  watched  the  progress  of  the  destructive  ele- 
ment and  when  the  heat  of  the  flames  and  the  smoke 
became  too  intense,  in  other  words,  when  the  falling  of 
the  tower  and  his  certain  death  were  but  a  question  of 
minutes,  he  once  more  raised  his  trumpet  to  his  mouth 
and  sounded  the  famous  old  hymn:  "Ein'  feste  Burg  ist 
unser  Gott!"  (A  solid  tower  is  our  God!)  Hardly  had 
he  finished  when  the  earthly  tower,  which  had  given  him 
shelter  for  so  many  years,  fell  with  a  crash,  burying  its 
last  and  noblest  guard  under  its  ruins,  a  martyr  to  duty. 
No  Hamburg  native  speaks  of  that  conflagration  without 
honoring  the  memory  of  the  greatest  hero  of  that  disas- 
ter, by  relating  these  facts.  To  return  to  our  thread: 
Tolling  the  district  fire-bell  in  daytime  is  supplemented 
at  night  by  the  patrolman's  horn  and  his  very  measured 
shouts  of:  Fire!  fire!  fire!— "Kehrwedder,"  or  announc- 
ing whatever  neighborhood  of  the  district  may  be  endan- 
gered. As  mostly  natives  apply  for  the  positions  of 
patrolmen,  these  notices  are  generally  given  in  low  Ger- 
man, a  typical  ''Hamburger  Plattdiitsch."  The  more 
unruly  the  element,  the  oftener  one  hears  the  tolling  and 
the  announcements.  During  the  Kehrwieder  fire,  for  in- 
stance,  I  counted  fifteen  of  those  much  dreaded  alanns. 
There  is  as  little  commotion  noticeable  among  the  inhab- 
itants during  a  storm  flood,  as  in  time  of  fire,  three  can- 
non shots,  in  rapid  succession,  announce  the  impending 
danger.  As  long  as  the  flood  does  not  rise  too  high  the 
numerous  water  gates  (being  closed  at  the  sound  of 
alarm)  protect  the  city  from  invasion,  which  threatens 
especially  the  inhabitants  of  the  cellars,  who  are  mostly 
small  dealers  in  vegetables,  liquors  or  small  goods,  with 
here  and  there  a  cheap  restaurant.  The  real  danger 
arises  when  the  water  rushes  over  the  tops  of  the  water- 
gates,  which  is  said  to  be  a  rare  occurrence;  when  it  does 


HAMBURG:    GENERAL  IMPRESSIONS  65 

happen,  however,  most  cellars  of  the  old  city  become 
uninhabitable,  and  one  sees  every  portable  piece  of  prop- 
erty piled  up  along  the  sidewalks,  all  of  which  is  but  the 
work  of  a  few  minutes,  as  the  second  and  third  alarm, 
suffices  to  put  the  cellar-dwellers  on  their  guard.  The 
sight,  particularly  when  it  happens  at  night  time,  is  often 
heartrending;  imagine  distracted  citizens,  sick  or  well, 
old  or  young,  with  babies  in  arms,  driven  into  the  street 
during  an  icy  winter  night.  Fortunately,  even  this  con- 
dition is  looked  upon  by  the  long-suffering  people  as  an 
unavoidable  evil,  and  is  therefore  taken  philosophically. 
These  floods,  aside  from  the  great  inconveniences  just 
described,  leave  always  an  army  of  rats  and  other  unwel- 
come guests  behind,  with  which  all  seaports  are  more 
or  less  infested. 

Fire  and  water  remind  me  of  an  extremely  practical 
though  very  expensive  arrangement.  Here  and  there  the 
visitor  observes  in  the  middle  of  the  street  a  funnel- 
shaped  opening  about  three  feet  in  diameter,  which  leads 
into  an  immense  out-fall  sewer,  the  building  of  which 
has  cost  the  city  millions  of  marks.  These  sewer  chan- 
nels are  six  feet  deep  and  four  feet  wide  and  form  a  well- 
laid  sewer  system,  extending  throughout  the  city,  having 
for  its  only  object  the  removal  of  sewage  from  the  houses 
and  streets  to  the  Elbe.  This  system  was  introduced  by 
an  English  engineer  shortly  after  the  conflagration  of 
1842.  An  obstruction  of  this  sewer  has  never  occurred 
so  far,  and  strange  as  it  may  seem,  the  city  has  never  had 
a  cent 's  worth  of  repairs  on  this  sewer  since  the  opening 
nearly  ten  years  ago.  The  cause  may  be  found  in  the 
spacious  and  solidly  built  channels,  which  are  thoroughly 
cleaned  by  flushing,  at  least  once  a  month.  This  clean- 
ing is  done  by  opening  a  single  water  gate  of  the  Outer- 
Alster,  whereupon  the  water  rushes  with  a  thundering 
roar  into  the  subterraneous  tunnel-like  conduits,  remov- 
ing thereby  every  particle  of  garbage  and  refuse  in  a 
very  few  hours,  as  if  thousands  of  shovels  and  brooms 
had  been  at  work.  To  give  you  a  more  exact  estimate  of 
the  power  with  which  the  water  removes  all  sewage,  the 


66  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

final  triumphal  experiment  of  the  engineer  may  be 
related:  "When  his  last  inspection  had  satisfied  his  own 
expectations,  he  invited  the  Senators  of  Hamburg  to  wit- 
ness a,  public  exhibition  of  his  magiiificent  success. 
Marked  rocks  of  about  three  hundredweight  each  were 
thrown  into  the  sewer  at  different  points,  to  test  the  force 
of  the  rushing  water,  and  behold  every  one  of  those  rocks 
disajipeared  and  was  afterwards  discovered  at  the  outlets 
of  the  respective  conduits;  not  one  had  remained  in  its 
place.  At  stated  times  visitors  may  inspect  the  system, 
and  even  royal  visitors  are  counted  among  the  eager  spec- 
tators. But  let  this  be  enough  for  to-night.  The  evening 
is  so  beautiful  that  I  am  tempted  to  go  out  for  a  walk 
through  the  city. 

May  21st,  1851. 
Somehow  I  cannot  tear  myself  away  from  this  letter 
and  no  matter  how  often  I  decide  to  take  it  to  the  post- 
office  I  change  my  mind  to  add  one  or  the  other  thought 
which  just  happens  to  cross  it.  It  gives  me  such  inex- 
pressible pleasure  to  chat  with  my  beloved  ones  for  half 
an  hour,  when  and  wherever  I  feel  like  it,  to  tell  them 
whatever  I  may  have  seen,  heard  or  experienced.  Yes- 
terday I  took  a  walk  along  the  famous  Jungfemstieg 
(Old  Maid's  Path)  toward  the  Alster-Arcades,  after  hav- 
ing enjoyed  a  cup  of  coffee  at  the  Pavilion.  Wlien  I  was 
about  to  turn  into  the  Grosse  Bleichen  there  appeared 
suddenly  a  strange  procession  of  still  stranger  figures, 
clothed  in  the  costumes  of  buried  centuries.  I  thought 
I  was  dreaming  until  I  became  convinced  that  it  was  a 
reality,  that  I  had  a  living,  though  mediaeval  picture 
before  me.  Two  by  two,  with  measured  step,  they  turn 
around  the  corner,  where  Grote-Tpmato's  cigar  store  is 
located.  Solemn  as  their  walk  was  their  whole  appear- 
ance, reminding  one  of  Heinrich  Heine's 

*'Men  of  darkened  mien  and  mantle 
Spanish  ruffles  'round  their  necks, 
Dangling  sabers,  long  drawn  faces,"  etc. 


HAMBURG:    GENERAL  IMPRESSIONS  67 

They  looked  just  as  the  great  lyric  poet  described  them. 
Well!  I  thought  the  king's  clown  had  bitten  me  (  a  Ger- 
man idiom  reminding  one  of  Charles  Dickens':  "I'll  eat 
my  head"),  when  the  whole  proved  to  be  a— funeral  pro- 
cession! These  strangely  attired  figures  which  passed  be- 
fore me  were  Hamburg  cofhn-bearers,  who,  as  I  after- 
wards learned,  form  a  very  select  guild.  Their  costumes 
are  too  uncommon  to  omit,  as  you  will  surely  appreciate 
the  description.  These  men,  to  begin  with,  wear  highly 
polished  shoes  with  satin  rosettes  about  as  large  as  a 
medium  sized  saucer,  their  nether  extremities  are  hidden 
in  velvet  knee  breeches,  and  long  black  silk  stockings, 
attached  to  the  former  by  immense  silver  buckles,  all  of 
which,  if  intended  to  hide  the  crooked  limbs — for  all 
those  coffin-bearers  had  crooked  limbs  and  no  calves- 
fail  in  their  purpose.  Next  comes  the  waistcoat  of  black 
broad-cloth,  with  ungainly  but  snow-white  cuffs,  cover- 
ing part  of  the  hands,  while  broad  ruffled  collars  of  spot- 
less linen  encircle  the  long  necks  of  the  bony  wearer, 
making  the  head  appear  like  that  of  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tist, presented  upon  a  plate  or  like  a  ball  of  nine-pins 
placed  upon  a  mill-stone.  From  their  shoulders  falls  a 
short  Spanish  cloak,  and  the  hair— if  they  have  any — 
is  carefully  hidden  under  a  snow-white  wig,  the  principal 
ornament  of  which,  consists  of  two  well  tallowed  and 
twisted  curls  on  either  side  of  the  lengthy  face.  But  I 
must  not  forget  the  sword  which  fits  this  professional 
pall-bearer  as  a  cat's  tail  would  fit  a  duck. 

Having  read  this  true  description  of  a  Hamburg  coffin- 
bearer,  place  yourself  in  my  position,  and  tell  me  if  it  is 
not  enough  to  make  one's  hair  stand  up  straight,  when, 
being  a  stranger,  after  reading  the  ''National  Gazette'^ 
or  the  "Fliegende  Blatter"  (Flying  Leaves,  Germany's 
best  humoristic  paper),  while  enjoying  a  cup  of  coffee  at 
th©  Pavilion,  one  strolls  aimlessly  along  the  Jungfem- 
stieg,  meaning  no  harm  but  glancing  admiringly,  or  other- 
wise, at  the  latest  Parisian,  styles  for  fashionable  folks, 
one  is  suddenly  confronted  by  such  an  apparition.  One 
is  carried  back — nolens  volens— to  the  sixteenth  century. 
It  actually  stunned  me. 


68  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

AiiOther  body  of  men  curious  to  look  upon  is  the  local 
militia  or  *' citizens'  guard,"  as  they  are  commonly  called. 
It  would  do  your  heart  good  to  see  them.  They  are  most- 
ly tradesmen  and  artisans,  tailors,  glove-makers,  etc. 
They  are  indeed  comical  figures ;  conspicuous  among  them 
are  the  officers  of  this  self-appointed  soldieiy.  The  uni- 
forms, too,  are  as  odd  as  their  wearers,  and  funny  to  look 
upon.  Long  blue  coats  with  blue  velvet  collars  and  culls, 
whito  leather  belts  and  helmets  (rather  ''czakos,"  pro- 
nounced tshaccoes,  a  semi-Russian  head-gear),  both  such 
as  our  Prussian  army  were  wont  to  wear  in  by-gone  years. 
The  genuine  Hamburg  soldier,  however,  is  uniformed 
after  the  new  Prussian  army  outfit  with  the  exception 
of  the  dark  green  coats,  while  the  helmets  bear  the  Ham- 
burg coat-of-arms— three  towers— instead  of  the  Piiis- 
sian  eagle.  These  militiamen  exercise  regularly  in  a 
large  field  called  the  "Bilrgei'weide"  (i.  e.,  citizen's  pas- 
ture), which  is  located  just  outside  of  the  Dammthor. 
Tlie  whole  is  looked  upon  by  progressive  Hamburgers  as 
a  relic  of  the  past,  which  like  many  others  will  soon  van- 
ish entirely. 

The  history  of  Hamburg,  called  Hamburgensien,  is 
said  to  be  full  of  remarkably  interesting  incidents,  and 
has  been  made  the  subject  of  special  study  by  several 
renowned  scholars,  among  whom,  Dr.  Otto  Beneke,  the 
author  of  Hamburgische  Geschichten  und  Sagen  (Ham- 
burg Tales  and  Legends),  and  the  lecturer.  Dr.  Riidiger, 
have  endeared  themselves  particularly  to  the  native 
Hanseatic.  The  most  remarkable  one  of  the  first  named 
tales  and  legends  is  the  "authentic  visit"  of  Ahasuerus, 
the  wandering  Jew,  who  is  said  to  have  visited  Hamburg 
during  the  winter  of  1547,  which  was  his  very  first  ap- 
pearance in  Europe.  The  chronicle  describes  him  as  of 
tall,  bony  figure,  poorly  clad  and  of  decidedly  foreign 
look  and  mien;  he  wore  a  long  white  beard,  and  though 
apparently  not  more  than  fifty  years  of  age,  his  long  hair, 
too,  was  snowy  white.  He  was  exemplary  in  his  de- 
meanor and  edified  the  worshippers  in  the  house*  of  God. 
A  young  theologian,  Paul  von  Eitzen,  undertook  to  in- 


HAMBURG:    GENERAL  IMPRESSIONS  69 

terview  this  strange  man,  and  obtained  the  following  ac- 
count: Ahasuerus  by  name,  and  shoemaker  by  profes- 
sion, he  had  ah^eady  been  living  at  the  time  of  Christ  in 
the  city  of  Jerusalem,  his  native  place.  Like  most  of  his 
fellow-men,  he  had  mistaken  Jesus  for  a  sectarian  and 
a  revolutionist  and,  in  unison  with  many  others,  had  de- 
manded the  crucifixion  of  the  Master.  When  the  proces- 
sion, headed  for  Calvarj^,  passed  his  house,  he,  Ahasuerus, 
refused  the  suffering  Savior  even  a  moment 's  rest,  driv- 
ing him  off  in  a  rude  manner  so  as  to  be  esteemed  for  his 
cruelty  by  the  Pharisees.  Then  the  Christ,  lookly  sadly 
at  the  infuriated  Jew,  spake  these  words:  "I  only  wished 
to  rest  a  while,  but  thou  hast  refused  me,  wherefore  thou 
shalt  wander  upon  earth  until  the  day  of  judgment  Com- 
eth. ' '  After  hearing  these  words,  he  felt  an  indescribable 
longing  to  witness  the  crucifixion,  during  which  he  ex- 
perienced so  great  a  change  of  heart  that,  repenting  his 
deed,  he  left  Jerusalem  to  do  penance  for  his  sins  and 
has  been  homeless  ever  since,  a  living  warning  to  all 
unbelievers  and  scoffers  and  destined  to  become  a  living 
witness  against  the  Jews  on  the  last  day.  He  suddenly 
disappeared  and  visited  this  city  but  once  more,  says  the 
chronicle,  and  that  was  in  A.  D.  1606. 


May  22nd,  1S51. 
Yesterday  afteraoon  I  met  Vogt  from  Konigsberg  and 
Rudolph  Ehlert  as  well  as  one  Kullack,  ex-lieutenant  of 
the  Schleswig-Holstein  army,  with  whom  I  spent  a  very 
pleasant  evening  in  the  Walhalla,  a  delightful  resort  on 
the  Outer- Alster-Basin,  where  good  concerts  and  moder- 
ately reasonable  priced  refreshments  help  one  to  forget 
the  time.  Sommerfeld  is  rooming  at  the  same  hotel  that 
I  am,  just  two  rooms  from  me.  He  is  awaiting  money, 
like  so  many  other  Schleswig-Holstein  officers,  every  one 
of  whom  expects  to  emigrate  to  America  sooner  or  later. 
Many  of  these  poor  fellows  are  really  stranded  but  man- 
age in  some  way  to  take  life  easy,  true  to  the  old  Saxo- 
nian  «aying: 


70  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

''Man  muss  das  Leben  eben  nehmen, 
Wie's  Leben  eben  ist." 

(One  should  take  life  just,  as  life  just  is.) 

Tlie  local  beer-gardens  and  saloons  have  attractions 
for  the  new-comer  which  are  not  to  be  found  in  Konigs- 
berg.  Nobody  seems  to  be  surprised  to  hear  English, 
Danish  or  Spanish  spoken  at  one  and  the  same  table. 
Not  even  a  head  turns  unless  it  be  that  of  a  stranger, 
like  myself.  I  mostly  spend  my  evenings  at  Diedrichs, 
townsman  from  Elbing,  who  has  done  Olias  and  me  many 
a  favor.  It  was  there  where  I  met  a  Turk  the  other  night, 
who  only  spoke  a  few  words  of  broken  English  outside 
of  his  mother  tongue,  but  he  got  his  beefsteak,  played 
a  game  of  billiards  and  went  away  again  without  re- 
ceiving any  more  attention  than  other  guests.  People 
who  have  travelled  for  years  in  foreign  lands,  in  America, 
Africa,  etc.,  speak  of  their  experiences  as  if  they  were 
every-day  occurrences,  and  if  any  guest  within  hearing 
distance  tries  to  listen,  depend  upon  it  he  is  not  a  Ham- 
burger. It  has  already  happened  to  me  on  different  occa^ 
sions  to  speak  German  to  one  and  English  to  another 
table  companion,  an  easy  matter  when  you  become  used 
to  it. 

There  are  quite  a  number  of  Konigsberg  and  other 
East-Prussians  in  this  city.  I  meet  many  old  acquain- 
tances, most  of  whom  will  leave  sooner  or  later  for  for- 
eign lands.  And  marvelously  good  it  seems  to  a  fellow 
to  shake  hands  once  more  with  one  you  have  known- 
back  home— sometimes  only  a  mere  sight  acquaintance. 
Thus  I  met  Griife,  son  of  the  book-dealer,  who  intends 
going  to  Venice  in  a  few  weeks.  Voss,  who  is  bound  for 
Liverpool  in  search  of  a  living.  Both  were  schoolmates 
of  mine.  Bruhl  also  is  about  to  set  out  for  America,  i.  e., 
Milwaukee  via  New  York.  One  thing  more  that  you  will 
nppreciate.  Seeing  my  prospective  needs,  I  shall  now 
begin  in  earnest  with  the  study  of  the  Spanish  language 
and  have  consequently  purchased  Franceson's  Dictionary 


HAMBURG:    GENERAL  IMPRESSIONS  71 

and  an  excellent  grammar  by  Jose  Eusebio  Gomez  de 
Mier,  both  upon  friend  Griife's  recommendation,  who  is 
now  employed  in  a  local  book-store.* 

Griife  and  others  assure  me  that  the  Spanish  language 
is  very  easily  mastered  by  one  who  is  studying  not  mere- 
ly for  pastime  but  for  a  puii)ose..  The  whole  construc- 
tion resemljles  the  French  and  the  irregiilarities  are  said 
to  be  much  better  classified  and  less  subject  to  excep- 
tions. Thus  T  hope  to  make  good  headway,  though  self- 
instruction  is  said  to  be  of  slow  progi^ess.  Where  there  is 
a  will  there  is  a  way.  Time  will  surely  not  fail  me  during 
my  long  trip. 

It  just  occurs,  to  me  that  there  still  remains  a  bit  of 
Bertha's  curiosity  to  be  satisfied.  Tell  her  that  the 
*' glass-street"  which  she  has  heard  others  mention  is  not 
altogether  a  myth,  but  looks  different  from  what  the 
sound  of  the  word  would  suggest.  One  finds  here  out- 
side of  regular  thoroughfares— by  land  and  water— quite 
a  number  of  passages  for  pedestrians  only.  These  are 
intended  to  facilitate  communications  in  large  blocks  and 
are,  in  reality",  tunnels  within  said  blocks,  having  the  ap- 
pearances of  streets,  with  stores,  cafes,  etc.,  which  gener- 
ally receive  their  light  through  immense  arched  transoms 
which  top  the  sides  of  these  tunnels.  They  are  called 
passages,  for  instance,  the  Exchange,  Arcade,  Praetz- 
man's  and  manj^  other  passages.  The  Hotel  de  Russie 
on  the  Jungfemstieg  is  thus  tunneled,  having  a  glass 
bridge  transom  that  measures  ninety  by  three  hundred 
and  fifty  or  more  feet,  so  that  this  immense  opening  in 
the  five-stoiy  building  looks  at  the  first  glance  like  a 
large  hall,  the  sides  of  which  with  their  finely  polished 
plate-glass  windows  give  the  whole — particularly  when 


*The  memory  of  Gomez  de  Mier  is  still  cherished  by  many  who 
have  been  benefited  by  his  teachings  as  has  the  translator.  A 
noble  soul,  who  devoted  his  busy  life  to  the  service  of  his  own 
native  land  by  increasing  its  foreign  commercial  interests  and 
thereby  cementing  the  union  between  two  great  nations,  yea  hem- 
ispheres. Prof.  De  Mier  spent  many  of  his  best  years  in  Ham- 
burg, where,  as  he  expressed  it,  every  foreigner  feels  at  home. 


72  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

lighted— the  apiDearance  of  a  glass-arcade.  This,  then, 
must  be  the  street  referred  to.  It  is  called  ''Alster 
Arcade. ' ' 

I  close  right  here,  in  order  not  to  iim  the  risk  of  tiring 
you,  my  beloved  ones,  with  this  almost  endless  letter. 
Before  going  on  board  I  shall  doubtless  write  once  more. 

Meantime  I  send  thousands  of  most  heartfelt  greetings 
to  all  who  bear  me  love. 

Most  affectionately 

(Signed)  FKANZ. 

Pardon  the  translator  a  few  words  in  defence  of  his  native 
place,  i.  e.,  as  far  as  St.  Pauli  and  its  manifold  pleasures  are  con- 
cerned, which  some  American  readers  may  want  to  criticise.  The 
grand  old  Hansatown  is  a  cosmopolitan  seaport — eleven  hundred 
years  old — of  a  set  character ;  St.  Pauli  is,  as  the  author  already 
stated,  the  center  of  pleasure-seeking  foreigners,  mostly  sailors 
and  visiting  farm-hands.  There  the  native  Hamburger  is  very 
much  in  the  minority. — Germans  drink  their  beverage  as  such, 
but  never  otherwise,  H  therefore  you  think  or  hear  of  exdesses, 
treat  them  as  exceptions  if — which  is  rarely  true — they  can  be 
laid  to  the  door  of  a  native.  The  Northern  German  especially, 
despises  intemperance,  though  very  few  are  total  abstainers, — 
J.  C.  B. 
Transl. 


LETTEK  NO.  IV 


On  Board  of  Bark  Victoria,  off  Hamburg,  near  Gliick- 

stadt. 

June  6th,  1851. 
My  Beloved  Ones:— Floating  at  last!  I  have  been  on 
board  the  "Victoria"  since  the  second  of  this  month, 
though  we  did  not  leave  the  Hamburg  harbor  until  a 
quarter  to  six  yesterday  afternoon.  I  am  informed  that 
there  are  fifty-seven  steerage  passengers  and  six  cabin 
passengers  on  board;  of  all  these  only  ten  are  bound  for 
San  Francisco,  the  others  will  stop  at  Valdivia  or  Val- 
paraiso. My  first  impression  of  my  fellow-passengers 
leads  me  to  believe  that  I  struck  a  very  companionable 
crowd.  There  are  some  from  Wtirtemberg,  Baden,  Hesse, 
Saxony  and  comparatively  few  from  Prussia.  As  I  ex- 
pected they  are  mostly  good  middle-class  men  of  some 
education.  We  have  also  a  few  women  and  children  on 
board.  Tliere  is  already  a  certain  spirit  of  harmony 
among  the  passengers,  which  seems  to  increase  as  the 
hours  roll  by.  Among  the  cabin  passengers  we  count  a 
Dr.  Donner— member  of  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  re- 
spected of  Hamburg  families— who  is  booked  for  Val- 
divia. Of  course  we  do  not  know  each  other  by  name 
just  yet,  but  it  strikes  me  that  the  way  to  mutual  appre- 
ciation is  being  paved  rapidly,  as  every  one  on  board  is 
seemingly  bent  upon  studying  how  he  can  contribute  to 
that  harmony  and  happy  condition,  which  are  so  desira- 
ble on  a  long  and  uncertain  voyage  like  ours.  As  our 
staunch  vessel  had  previously  attracted  my  attention,  so 
now  do  the  passengers  seem  to  add  to  the  contentment 
I  feel  on  board  the  ship.  The  crew  also  is  well  chosen. 
Tliere  are  seventeen  of  them:  The  captain,  first  and  sec- 
ond mate,  carpenter,  cook,  eight  experienced  and  two 
younger  tars;  also  two  apprentices.    A  fine  body. 

73 


74  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Our  table  arrangement  is  very  simple  About  half- 
past  six  in  tlie  morning  each  one  of  us  steerage-passen- 
gers gets  two  quarts  of  coffee;  at  twelve  o'clock,  dinner, 
and  at  six  in  the  evening,  tea,  about  as  much  as  coffee.  At 
present  fresh  bread  and  butter  is  given  morning  and 
evening,  which  will  later  be  substituted  by  so-called 
''ship's  zweiback"  and  butter,  as  much  as  we  care  to  eat. 
"\Ye  agi'eed  to  take  our  turns,  i.  e.,  one  person  for  every 
two  cabins  undertakes  to  go  after  the  supply  for  a  week, 
divides  and  distributes  the  portions  and  does  the  dish- 
washing for  the  time  being— one  week.  The  steerage 
cabins  are  really  arranged  for  four  persons,  but  have 
hardly  more  than  half  the  number  of  occupants  this  trip. 
As  previously  mentioned,  we  left  the  Hamburg  harbor  at 
about  six  o'clock  last  evening  from  the  neighborhood  of 
the  English  EefoiTned  Church,  a.  large  but  very  plain 
edifice.  A  few  friends — old  and  new— spent  the  evening 
on  board  with  us,  ajid  I  assure  you  their  visit  will  ever 
be  remembered,  as  a  few  kind  wishes,  a  live  hand-shake, 
a  *'God  be  with  j^ou"  on  the  eve  of  a  long  voyage  to  an 
unknown  land  and  an  uncertain  fate,  go  far  to  overcome 
that  awful  feeling  of  loneliness  which  even  the  bravest 
of  us  would  otherwise  have  experienced.  Bartsch,  Kirscli- 
stein,  Diedrich  and  Fritz  Gmnhagen,  I  thank  them  for 
this  favor. 

You  will  probably  have  received  my  letter  of  the  first, 
which  was  wholly  personal.  Sister  will  be  interested  to 
know  how  I  fitted  myself  for  the  trip.  Last  Friday  I  went 
to  one  of  the  many  ship-chandlers  where  one  can  buy 
from  a  stick-pin  to  a  complete  sea-faring  outfit,  and 
where  I  purchased  the  following  goods  for  the  price  men- 
tioned: One  oil-cloth  jacket  and  Southwester  for  five 
Hamburg  marks  (about  one  dollar  and  a  half) ;  one  plain 
mattress  with  pillow,  for  four  marks  and  eight  shillings; 
one  double  woollen  blanket  for  nine  marks.  Further,  but 
do  not  laugh:  Cooking-utensils,  one  soup  plate,  spoon, 
butter  dish,  bottle  and  mug,  together,  one  mark  and  eight 
shillings.  This  completed  my  outfit.  1  now  considered 
myself  in  "ship-shape"  for  the  long  voyage. 


N 

z 

■r. 

? 

-• 

:;: 

- 

■^ 

^ 

?a 

CJ 

^ 

C 

~ 

-— 

^ 

•y. 

- 

ON  BOARD  BARK  "VICTORIA"  75 

We  started  with  light  south  wind  and  within  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  we  had  left  the  myriads  of  vessels  and 
commenced  to  set  our  sails.  Our  beautiful  ship  with  all 
canvas  set  and  flying  flags  passed  St.  Pauli  and  Altona. 
Nearly  all  passengers  were  on  deck  to  enjoy  the  magnifi- 
cent sight  of  the  terrace-shaped  banks  of  the  Elbe,  with 
their  country  residences  of  Hamburg  merchant  princes, 
surrounded  by  well-laid-out  gardens,  while  on  the  other 
side  are  large  fruit  farms  on  the  so-called  "Werders," 
little  islands,  a  description  of  which  I  have  already  given. 

We  passed  Blankenese  shortly  after  seven.  The  wind 
grew  lighter,  while  the  sun  sent  his  parting  rays  across 
the  beautiful  scenery.  The  water  scarcely  curled  around 
our  vessel  and  the  mirror-like  surface  of  the  Elbe  was 
soon  covered  with  innumerable  white  sails  of  all  sizes, 
surrounding  the  magnificent  three-master,  whose  im- 
mense pyramid-sails  cast  a  broad,  dark  shadow  upon  the 
waters  and  passed  along  just  as  noiselessly  as  did  the 
small,  easy-going  fisher-boat,  which  was  rocking  toward 
tlie  owner's  homestead  that  lay  hidden  amidst  shrubbery 
on  one  of  the  green  islands  of  the  river.  The  wind  be- 
came so  light  that  it  was  impossible  for  us  to  reach 
Stade;  but  we  were  compelled  by  the  approaching  dark- 
ness to  anchor  temporarily  on  the  Hanoverian  coast  and 
a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  town  mentioned.  That  hai> 
pened  about  ten  o'clock  last  night.  This  morning  about 
four  we  started  again  and  reached  Stade  by  seven,  where 
another  passenger  joined  our  ranks,  after  he  had  delayed 
us  for  two  hours  more.  Thus  we  passed  Gltickstadt  at 
eleven  a.  m.  and  anchored  half  an  hour  later  to  await 
another  turn  of  the  tide  before  entering  the  wide  ocean. 
Here  we  are  now,  right  in  the  middle  of  the  beautiful 
Elbe,  which  measures  something  like  a  mile  and  a.  half 
from  shore  to  shore  (i.  e.,  about  five  English  miles).  As 
I  intend  to  send  this  letter  via  Cuxhaven,  I  shall  have  to 
break  off  that  the  pilot  may  take  it-  ashore.  You  will 
know  by  this  the  exact  day,  almost  to  the  hour,  when  we 
put  to  sea.  Olias  asks  as  a  favor  to  have  the  enclosed 
note  forwarded  to  his  mother. 


76  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

I  shall  endeavor  to  send  you  one  more  message  of  love 
and  good  cheer. 

Sunday,  June  8th,  1851. 

We  are  still  in  the  same  place  exactly  where  we  an- 
chored the  day  before  j^esterday,  i.  e.,  between  the  Han- 
overian town  Fryburg  and  the  Holstein  village  Brook- 
dorf.  Yesterday  I  had  the  misfortune  to  break  the  rim 
of  my  spectacles.  While  washing  myself  I  had  laid  them 
in  what  I  considered  a  safe  place,  but  one  of  our  cabin 
boys  managed  to  break  them,  unintentionally,  of  course. 
I  have  succeeded,  however,  in  fixing  them  after  a  fash- 
ion, so  that  they  will  probably  stand  the  trip. 

While  the  river  did  not  show  much  life  yesterday, 
there  was  more  of  it  on  board.  We  had  our  first  day  of 
''distribution,"  which  means  the  laying  in  of  the  weekly 
supply  of  bread,  butter  and  sugar,  which  necessarily 
caused  much  noise  and  racket,  which  was  increased  by 
the  carpenter's  task  of  the  day  of  driving  nails  through 
the  strajj  iron  bands  of  the  boxes;  this  is  done  in  order  to 
fasten  them  together  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  the 
otherwise  unavoidable  swinging  and  breaking  when  out 
on  the  open  sea.  These  were  really  the  first  intimations 
that  we  had  not  merely  gone  on  a  pleasure  trip,  but  on  a 
serious  sea  voyage.  Other  preparations,  such  as  the  secure 
corking  of  the  water  barrels,  fastening  of  life-boats,  while 
new  to  most  of  us,  were  nevertheless  very  tiresome  and 
noisy,  thus  making  the  day  one  of  the  dreariest  we  have 
so  far  spent  on  board  of  the  ** Victoria."  Toward  evening 
we  rested  from  the  annoyances  of  the  day.  Absolute  calm 
set  in  toward  seven  o'clock,  and  as  a  consequence  the 
river  became  as  smooth  as  a  miiTor,  while  the  shores 
seemed  to  float  in  a  mist  of  fog.  The  tolling  of  bells  from 
the  Fryburg  church  could  be  plainly  heard  on  board,  and 
they  reminded  us  of  the  approaching  Feast  of  Pentecost.* 


''■This  feast  of  the  Holy  Ghost  is  much  more  observed  in  Luth- 
eran countries  than  elsewhere  and  has  become  the  herald  of  a 
season  of  excursions  and  summer  festivities,  particularly  in 
northern  climes.    The  approach  of  the  "summer  vacation,"  called 


ON  BOARD  BARK  "VICTORIA"  r? 

"We  all  sat  on  deck  until  nearly  eleven  o'clock,  and  men 
and  women  alike  enjoyed  the  pleasant  evening,  enter- 
taining each  other  with  jokes,  songs  and  general  merry- 
making. 

Today  it  is  raining— pouring,  I  should  call  it— as  if 
the  water  were  emptied  upon  us  by  the  bucketful.  While 
I  am  penning  these  lines  the  clouds  seem  to  grow  thinner 
and  here  and  there  are  indications  of  a  clear  sky  for  the 
afternoon— due  perhaps  to  the  ardent  supplications  of 
HambuTg  maidens  who  have  set  their  hearts  on  airing  a 
new  bonnet  or  even  a  brand-new  dress  on  this,  the  open- 
ing day  of  the  season.  And  woman  is  the  same  the  world 
over.  Tlie  wind  is  blowing  from  the  west  which  gives  us 
little  hope  for  an  early  start.  We  have  been  surrounded 
by  thirty  or  more  larger  or  smaller  vessels,  in  course  of 
time,  all  like  ourselves  are  waiting  for  favorable  wind  to 
speed  along.  Nothing  is  more  discouraging  than  to  be 
nailed  to  one  spot  and  to  feel  a  breeze  overhead  without 
being  able  to  utilize  it,  as  the  Elbe,  though  very  wide  to 
the  naked  eye,  is  but  a  narrow  water  in  which  ships  like 
the  Victoria  cannot  course  about  to  great  advantage. 
There  remains  nothing  but  to  patiently  await  a  favorable 
turn  of  the  wind.  Meanwhile  there  is  plenty  of  time  to 
plan  and  execute  our  preparations  for  the  long  trip  which 
is  before  us. 

Tnesday,  June  10th,  1851. 
At  9  a.  m. 
My  hope  that  the  weather  might  clear  up  during  the 
afternoon  of  Pentecost  Sunday  was  only  realized  in  part 
to  allow  us  an  evening  recreation  on  deck,  which  oc- 
currence brings  the  individuals  closer  to  each  other,  and 
shows  a  variety  of  amusing  intellects  which  would  sur- 
prise you.  Yesterday  we  encountered  a  genuine  North- 
sea  storm.  Of  course,  there  was  no  possibility  of  sailing 
on  Sunday,  and  all  the  vessels  which  had  come  down  the 


"dog's  days,"  which  lasts  four  long  weeks  and  not  as  we  have  it, 
three  whole  months,  is  joyfully  welcomed  by  the  young. — Transl. 


78  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

river  were  obliged  to  anclior  in  our  vicinity,  as  the  Elbe 
changes  its  course  near  Fryburg  and  thus  neutralizes 
the  breeze  that  has  helped  them  thus  far.  Yesterday's 
storm  raged  with  an  intensity  I  never  witnessed  before; 
and  the  rain  came  down  in  torrents.  Our  vessel,  though 
at  anchor,  was  thrown  on  one  side  and  rocked  so  terribly 
that  most  of  our  passengers  became  sea-sick.  I  should 
never  have  thought  the  Elbe  capable  of  raising  such  im- 
mense waves  at  this  point.  About  eight  o'clock  in  the 
raoiTiing  twOi  barks  which  were  a  little  ahead  of  us 
weighed  anchor  to  go  back  to  greater  safety,  an  example 
which  was  soon  followed  by  four  or  five  brigs  and  a  few 
schooners,  so  that  we  were  actually  left  alone  to  hold  the 
fort— a  circumstance  which  I  thought  rather  amusing. 
But  about  half-past  ten  we,  too,  began  to  get  busy  and, 
though  the  whole  crew  and  ten  or  twelve  passengers  were 
working  at  the  capstan  and  winding  tackle,  it  took  a  full 
hour  to  haul  in  the  big  chain,  which  measures  in  bulk 
about  twenty  cords.  We  returned  to  Gliickstadt,  where 
we  re-auchored  at  one  o'clock  in  the  midst  of  the  vessels 
which  had  left  Fryburg  before  us.  Besides,  there  were 
many  others  which  had  come  down  from  Hamburg,  and, 
like  ourselves,  were  compelled  to  wait.  As  we  were  now 
sheltered  from  the  rough  weather  the  water  calmed  and 
our  sick  people  soon  recovered  from  their  seasickness, 
which  in  most  cases  baffled  all  description.  During  the 
evening  nearly  all  of  them  appeared  on  deck  to  enjoy  the 
fresh  breeze,  intermitted  with  slight  showers.  Our 
evenings,  as  I  have  said  before,  are  looked  for  with  spe- 
cial pleasure.  Everybody  seems  gay  and  full  of  fun.  Two 
fellows  especially,  one  Fabricius  from  Berlin,  and  a 
Suabian  by  the  name  of  Stolle,  seem  inexhaustible  and 
untiring  in  finding  ways  to  amuse  the  crowd— a  worthy 
aim  which  is  heartily  supported  by  almost  everybody,, 
though  one  always  finds  a  few  cranks  in  a  large  body  of 
jjeople.  Aside  from  the  two  commissaries  of  good  cheer 
— Fabricius  and  Stolle— we  have  some  very  talented  mu- 
sical amateurs  on  board.  There  is  likewise  a  raconteur, 
who  has  seemingly  a  supply  of  anecdotes  and  Hamburg 


ON  BOARD  BARK  "VICTORIA"  79 

legends  that  will  last  and  amuse  us  for  quite  a  while  to 
come.  Among  our  musicians  there  is  a  Thuringian  paper- 
hanger,  who  is  a  veritable  master  of  the  Jews '-  harp ;  iu 
this  way  we  enjoy  vocal  and  instrumental  concerts  and 
timely  after-dinner  speeches,  which  are  by  no  means  to 
be  undervalued. 

Our  steerage  has  now  a  more  respectable  appearance, 
everything  being  definitely  placed,  boxes  fastened  and 
nailed  together,  so  as  not  to  disturb  our  rest  by  day  or 
night.  The  upper  berths  are  so  close  to  the  ceiling  that 
I  can  touch  it  when  lying  fiat  on  my  back,  yet  the  lower 
])ertlis  do  not  have  as  much  room.  Yesterday  we  re- 
ceived ship's  fare  for  the  first  time:  White  peas  with 
potatoes  and  pork.  It  was  excellent;  I  ate  two  portions 
of  it,  my  own  and  that  of  a  sea-sick  companion,  while  my 
thoughts  drifted  all  the  time  to  you,  my  dear  father,  who 
delight  in  such  a  plain,  healthful  meal.  Now  if  the  com- 
panionship continues  in  this  harmonious  and  pleasing 
manner,  if  the  rations  of  our  daily  supply  do  not  grow 
smaller,  I,  for  my  part,  shall  be  well  satisfied,  knowing 
that  the  quality  of  our  food  may  undergo  changes  such 
as  outward  conditions  force  upon  us,  and  which  we  have 
to  accept  be  they  to  our  special  liking  or  not. 

The  red  cap  which  Marie  crocheted  as  a  farewell  gift 
ornaments  the  head  of  a  Schleswig-Holstein  exile,  the 
well-known  lawyer,  Meyer,  from  Cappeln,  whO'  is  like- 
wise bound  for  San  Francisco  and  whose  headgear  took 
flight  during  yesterday's  storm.  I  loaned  him  my  cap 
temporarily.  Today  it  is  raining  again  and  the  sky  is 
covered  with  grayish  clouds.  There  is  just  a  breath  of  air, 
which  seems  to  come  from  the  East;  should  it  grow 
stronger  by  noon  there  may  be  a  possibility  of  an  early 
departure.  As  matters  look  now  we  cannot  get  away 
before  the  afternoon  tide.  We  find  patience  to  be  the 
ruling  virtue  at  present. 

3  p.  m.,  off  Cuxhaven. 
About  a  quarter  to  eleven  this  morning  we  started  to 
weigh  anchor  and,  making  use  of  a  fresh  northern  breeze, 


80  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

we  succeeded  in  reaching  Cuxhaven,  a  little  sea  town 
within  the  jurisdiction  of  Hamburg.  This  place  is  known 
to  all  sea-faring  men  for  its  lighthouse,  its  old  castle  and 
its  fine  beach,  which  also  has  become  a  point  of  pilgrim- 
age for  the  neighboring  populace;  it  likewise  serv^es  as  a 
military  outpost  and  has  fully  ten  thousand  inhabitants, 
mostly  engaged  in  ship-building 'and  forwarding  of  car- 
goes. Should  the  wind  continue  favorable,  we  shall  sure- 
ly reach  the  open  sea  before  night.  The  weather  is  cold 
and  rainy  and  my  oil-cloth  suit  proves  a  valuable  acqui- 
sition. My  fingers  are  somewhat  benumbed,  which  may 
be  attributed  to  the  cold  or  other  causes.  A  quick  fare- 
well is  the  best,  therefore  once  more  and  quickly:  Adieu! 
Farewell !  To  all  you  loved  ones  at  home,  whose  love  goes 
out  to  me  I 

With  filial  devotion, 

FRANZ. 
P.  S.— Griinhagen  asks  to  forward  his  note. 


LETTER  NO.  V 


On  board  the  Hamburg  bark  ''Victoria,"  Captain  Meyer 
Between  Valdivia  and  Valparaiso. 

The  20th  and  21st  of  October,  1851. 

My  Beloved  Parents: — As  has  so  often  hapj^ened  with 
many  others,  so  must  this  one  begin  with  an  excuse  for 
not  having  written  from  Valdivia,  after  an  interruption 
of  nearly  five  months.  Do  not  call  it  idleness  on  my  part. 
The  blame  is  to  be  attributed  to  the  government  of  Chile, 
as  the  constant  rebellions  have  been  the  cause  of  a  com- 
plete iirtemTptlon^ih  the  mail-service  between  Valdivia 
and  Valparaiso.  If  I  had  therefore  carried  out  my  former 
intention  of  at  least  notifying  you  of  my  safe  arrival,  the 
pi*obability  is  that  my  letter  would  never  have  reached 
you.  I  shall,  however,  make  amends  by  giving  you  a 
very  minute  account  of  my  voyage;  but  pray  do  not  ex- 
pect to  hear  of  wonderful  adventures  or  of  hair-raising 
accounts  of  narrow  escapes  and  danger  to  life.  While 
it  is  true  that  I  had  a  long  and  disagreeable  trip,  particu- 
larly in  the  last  month,  the  voyage  was  not  at  all  terri- 
ble; even  the  disagreeable  stonns  around  the  Cape  were 
no  worse  than  other  storms,  though  they  used  our  ship 
badly;  there  is  less  dangei*  when  one  has  plenty  of  space 
and  no  land  close  by.  You  may  read  therefore  without 
worry;  and  especially  you,  dear  mother,  take  my  advice 
and  do  not  commence  the  letter  at  the  end  to  get  assur- 
ance that  I  have  still  the  use  of  my  limbs.  I  am  in  as 
good  a  humor  as  one  can  possibly  be  when— after  a  four- 
months'  trip— one  has  had  a  chance  of  enjoying  the  ro- 
mantic sceneries  of  the  impenetrable,  virgin-forests  of 
the  Chilean  coast— las  Cordilleras. 

As  I  do  not  know  whether  my  letter  No.  4;  which  I 
sent  ashore  at  Cuxhaven  on  the  lOtli  of  June,  has  reached 
6  81 


82  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

you,  my  beloved  ones,  I  will  now  proceed  to  give  a  short 
resume  of  its  contents  and,  in  reality,  begin  at  the.  very 
beginning. 

It  was  a  magnificent  early  suimner  evening,  June  5th, 
of  the  present  year,  about  a  quarter  to  six,  when  the 
Mars-yards  went  squeaking  up  the  masts  of  our  ''Vic- 
toria"; a  mild  south-wind  filled  the  sails;  slowly,  and 
graciousl}"  the  vessel  careened  lightly  to  the  side  and  we 
slid  along  the  miiTor-like  Elbe.  The  customary  volley 
of  salute  was  fired  to  bid  farewell  to  St.  Pauli  (suburb 
of  Hamburg),  and  to  the  city  of  Altona;  then  gliding 
noiselessly  past  the  beautiful  parks  and  villas  which, 
chain-like,  present  themselves  along  the  banks  of  the 
Elbe  as  far  as  Nienstiidten;  that  charming  little  Blanke- 
nese,  became  the  object  of  the  parting  sun's  rays,  and 
darker  and  darker  grew  the  night,  and  about  ten  o'clock 
we  heard  the  lowering  of  the  anchor  near  Stade  on  the 
Elbe.  After  weighing  anchor  again  at  daybreak,  we  re- 
mained an  hour  or  more  to  take  another  passenger  and, 
passing  Gltickstadt,  were  compelled  by  contrarj^  wind  to 
anchor  once  more,  about  a  mile  below,  in  the  middle  of 
the  Elbe  between  the  Hanoverian  town  Fryburg  and  the 
Holstein  Brookdorf ;  it  was  then  about  eleven  in  the  fore- 
noon. The  wind  being  S.  W.  and  W.  S.  W.,  we  could 
not  move  and  were  compelled  to  remain  here  on  the  6th, 
7th  and  8th.  On  the  7th  we  were  treated  to  some  great 
noise.  The  carj^enter  nailed  boxes  of  all  kinds  more  se- 
curely, principally  in  the  steerage,  and  besides  that  there 
were  many  otlier  preparations,  though,  not  as  necessarv'', 
yet  fully  as  noisy,  which  made  the  whole  day  a  very  un- 
comfortable one.  But  the  evening  recompensed  us  for 
the  disagreeable  day.  The  air  was  mild  and  absolutely 
quiet.  The  waters  of  the  Ell)e  surrounded  the  ship 
like  a  shining  mirror;  the  banks  of  the  river  seemed  to 
float  in  the  bluish  evening-fog;  and  bells  of  Fryburg 
tolled  softly  and  solemnly  tlirough  the  air— announcing 
the  Eve  of  I'entecost.  Never  has  an  evening  like  this  stim- 
ulated the  mood  of  a  dreamy  mind  more.  I  followed  si- 
lently the  dictates  of  Nature  nnd  choosing  the  most  se- 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  83 

eluded  spot,  I  allowed  my  thoughts  to  run  as  they  would, 
and  there  is  no  need  of  telling  you  of  their  course:  you 
are  quite  aware  of  it,  beloved  ones. 

The  first  day  of  Pentecost,  as  you  already  know,  was 
spent  on  the  same  spot ;  the  weather  was  cold,  it  stormed 
and  then  it  rained  hard.  Many  vessels  passed  during  the 
day,  bound  outward,  but  all  had  to  east  anchor  near  us. 
On  Monday  we  had  a  hurricane  from  the  West,  of  such 
severity  that  one  ship  after  the  other  was  compelled  to 
weigh  anchor  and  return  up  the  river,  seeking  shelter. 
We,  too,  had  to  follow  suit  soon  after  twelve  o'clock  and 
reached  Gliickstadt  about  one,  where  we  anchored  again. 
The  waves  rose  so  high  that  the  rapid  rolling  of  the  ves- 
sel caused  many  of  our  passengers  to  become  seasick. 
The  following  day  was  not  much  more  agreeable,  as  the 
rain  came  down  in  torrents.  The  wind  veered  fortunate- 
ly to  the  North,  so  that  it  became  possible  for  us  to  weigh 
anchor  during  the  forenoon,  and  to  proceed  toward  Cux- 
haven  in  com}oany  with  about  twenty  other  vessels  which 
were,  like  ourselves,  sea-bound.  Yv^e  reached  the  light- 
house at  three  o'clock  p.  m.  and  anchored  about  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  off  the  coast.  Being  in  hopes  that  we  would 
continue  our  trip  right  away,  I  sent  the  afore  mentioned 
letter  ashore  at  once.  In  this,  to  my  great  chagrin,  I  was 
disappointed,  as  the  wind  changed  to  the  Northwest, 
which  compelled  us  to  cultivate  patience  for  another  day, 
as  we  were  unable  to  m.ove.  To  make  it  worse,  this  day, 
too,  was  a  rainy  one  and  nobody  will  blame  me  for  being 
in  ill-humor  when  evening  came.  Being  compelled  to 
spend  a  whole  week  in  rainy  weather  on  the  Elbe,  when 
one  is  conscious  of  having  about  four  thousand  miles  of 
travel  ahead,  is  not  the  thing  to  improve  one's  temper. 
Angry  with  the  weather,  with  Hamburg  and  Cuxhaven, 
with  the  Elbe  and  North-Sea,  with  myself  and  fellow- 
passengers,  I  crawled  very  early  into  my  berth  and  soon 
fell  asleep,  notwithstanding  the  pouring  of  the  rain  and 
the  splashing  of  the  waters  against  the  rolling  ship.  About 
three  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  June  the  12th,  I  was 
aroused  by  the  rattling  of  the  anchor-chain.    I  hastened 


84  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

on  deck.  The  morning  was  beautiful  and  the  fresh  W.  S. 
W.  breeze  filled  every  inch  of  our  sails  in  a  short  time. 
About  five  o'clock  we  reached  the  light-house  of  Neu- 
werk,  built  upon  a  barren  island,  which  is  most  of  the 
time  under  water.  Within  half  an  hour  more  the  pilot 
left  us  near  the  inner  light-boat  and  about  seven  o'clock 
we  passed  the  outer  light-boat  in  company  with  a  large 
Hamburg  steamer,  after  which  we  went  swinging  up  and 
down  the  blue,  foam-crowned  waves  of  the  North-Sea, 
which  had  a  gruesome  effect  on  the  health  of  our  passen- 
gers. Before  we  had  caught  sight  of  the  reddish,  glitter- 
ing rock  of  Heligoland— about  7:45 — our  ship  became  the 
scene  of  general  seasickness.  The  steerage  in  particular 
had  become  a  real  den  of  misery,  which  I  entered  but 
once  or  twice  during  the  day.  There  were  six  other  pas- 
sengers—Griinhagen  among  them— who  escaped  seasid<:- 
ness  altogether.  Though  we  did  not  approach  Heligo- 
land closer  than  about  two  miles,  we  kept  sight  of  it  un- 
til four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  During  the  day  we  had 
met  numerous  vessels  sailing  toward  the  Elbe  and  Weser, 
but  in  the  evening  we  passed  right  between  a  fleet  of 
eighteen  Dutch,  herring-fishing,  boats,  a  fact  which  ap- 
prised us  of  the  short  distance  from  the  Coast  of  Holland. 
While  we  had  made  considerable  headway  during  this 
day,  it  proved  to  be  the  only  one  during  which  we  could 
boast  of  fair  wind  as  long  as  we  remained  in  the  North- 
Sea;  for  we  awakened  the  next  morning  to  observe  a 
fresh  western  wind  with  cloudy  sky.  We  approached 
the  channel  by  short  tacks,  with  many  ships  in  sight.  On 
Saturday,  the  14th,  we  had  beautiful  weather  but  hardly 
any  wind;  about  nine  o'clock  we  sighted  twenty-two  ships 
which  were  surrounding  us  in  the  sun-kissed  waters  of 
the  North-Sea.  About  noon  we  were  accosted  by  a  Dutch 
fishing-boat.  The  wind  changed  during  the  afternoon  to 
S.  W.,  remaining  the  same  till  the  following  Sunday, 
when— about  four  o'clock  in  the  aftenioon— we  sighted 
ihe  English  coast  for  the  first  time;  tlie  land  sighted  be- 
ing the  high  sand-hills  of  Ramsgate.  TJie  sea  ran  high, 
and  the  contrast  between  the  grayish  yellow  color  near 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  85 

the  shore  and  the  transparent  blue-green  of  the  high  sea 
was  very  striking.  We  noticed  the  air  thickening  near 
by,  but  before  it  began  to  rain  we  could  distinguish  a 
large  number  of  English  fishing-boats  at  anchor.  Being 
compelled  to  turn  aside,  we  lost  sight  of  land  within  half 
an  hour.  The  breeze  grew  stronger  every  minute  and 
one  sail  after  the  other  was  taken  in;  when  darkness  over- 
took us  we  had  only  the  doubly-fitted  Mars  and  storm- 
bridge-sails  up.  Of  course  nobody  slept  during  that 
night.  The  groaning  and  lamenting  of  the  steerage  pas- 
sengers and  various  other  noises  from  the  different  parts 
of  the  ship,  together  with  the  creaking  of  the  vessel,  com- 
bined to  pi'oduce  a  turmoil,  compared  with  which  the  de- 
struction of  Sodom  and  GomoiTah  was  evidently  a  mild 
affair.  This  confusion  and  noise  continued  during  the 
whole  night. 

The  long  looked-for  morning  dawned  at  last  and,  as  the 
rain  was  not  as  heavy  as  before,  we— that  is,  the  few  who 
remained  well— went  on  deck  to  breathe  the  fresh  air. 
Though  I  have  since  lived  through  many  a  storm,  among 
which  this  one  was  in  reality  not  to  be  counted,  yet  there 
has  not  been  one  that  caused  as  much  sickening  and  un- 
bearable commotion  in  the  steerage  as  was  experienced 
during  that  night;  it  baffled  one's  powers  of  description. 

The  wind  changed  suddenly  to  Northwest  about  seven 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  which  had  the  effect  of  moder- 
ating the  weather  and  clearing  the  sky.  Then  came  a 
busy  time  of  setting  sails,  when  we  made  great  speed  un- 
der good  wind.  We  saw  again  many  vessels  and  at  one 
o'clock  there  came  an  English  fishing-sloop  alongside  to 
sell  fish.  Soon  after  the  color  of  the  water  changed  into 
a  dirty,  greyish  green,  giving  evidence  that  we  were  ap- 
proaching land,  which  we  sighted  at  5 :30  o  'clock.  There 
were  in  sight  the  low  English  Dunes  of  Gallopers  at  about 
three  miles'  distance.  We  kept  sailing  alongside  of  them 
until  eight  o'clock  when  they  vanished  from  sight,  we 
having  taken  a  more  southern  course.  When  night  came 
the  West  wind  blew  anew,  so  that  the  Mars-sail*  had  to  be 

*0r  top-sail. 


86  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

lowered  again.  The  next  morning  found  the  weather 
very  disagreeable  and  rough,  and  the  air  thick.  It  was 
the  17th  of  June;  we  steered  toward  the  channel  and  had 
the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  high  coast  of  Calais  about 
one  o'clock,  though  at  a  distance  of  many  miles.  The 
wind  commenced  to  lessen  and  changed  more  toward 
the  North.  At  half -past  two  we  sighted  the  coast  of  Eng- 
land near  Dover,  when  we  realized  to  our  great  relief  that 
we  had  entered  the  Pas  de  Calais,  leaving  behind  us  the 
North-Sea  with  all  its  storms  and  dangers. 

Wliile,  my  beloved  ones,  I  have  taken  you  clear  to  the 
English  channel,  you  have  not  heard  anything  of  my 
mode  of  life,  how  I  am  lodged,  what  I  do,  or  eat  or  drink. 
I  therefore  hasten  to  give  an  account  of  all  that  which 
in  reality  does  not  undergo  much  change  during  the 
whole  voyage.  During  our  trip  through  the  North-Sea 
and  channel,  we  were  not  well  settled  on  account  of  the 
sea-sickness  which  had  to  be  considered. 

The  steerage  of  the  Victoria  is  a  room  about  seven  feet 
high,  forty  feet  long  and  taking  in  the  whole  width  of 
the  ship.  Light  and  air  are  admitted  through  the  two 
entrances,  the  large  middle-hatch,  near  the  main-mast 
and  the  steerage-way  near  the  cabin.  The  bunks  of  the 
passengers  are  to  the  right  and  left,  arranged  four  in  a 
cell,  two  by  two,  one  above  another.  As  we  were  only 
fifty-seven  passengers,  having  twenty  cabins  at  our  dis- 
posal, we  managed  to  make  things  as  comfortable  as  pos- 
sible by  placing  two  or  three  in  a  cabin.  The  walks 
were  narrow  as  the  boxes  and  other  effects  had  been 
piled  up  in  the  middle  of  the  steerage  alongside  of  the 
cabins;  we  utilized  them,  however,  as  tables,  benches  and 
chairs.  The  illumination  at  night  was  produced  by  two 
lanterns  which  sufficed  to  make  correct  estimate  of  the 
dimness  and  the  thickness  of  the  air,  which  might  at  times 
have  been  cut  with  knives.  My  laundiy-articlcs  and  other 
necessities  for  the  trip  were  in  a  small  bag  and  a  still 
smaller  box  of  about  IV2  cubic  feet.  One  learns  to  be 
satisfied  with  little  on  trips  like  my  present  one.  Thus 
much  of  our  common  lodging  place:  our  mode  of  life  is, 
of  course,  similarly  monotonous, 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  87 

We  generally  arise  before  six  o'clock,  make  toilet, 
which  consists  of  washing  and  combing,  as  there  is  little 
dressing  done.  The  necessary  adroitness  required  in 
washing  is  soon  learned,  as  one  profits  by  the  mistakes 
of  others,  who  had  towels  and  tin-pans  blown  overboard 
or  who  suffered  other  tricks  played  on  them  by  the  wind. 
I  soon  learned  that  short  hair  is  a  great  blessing  as  it 
facilitates  combing  and  prevents  the  wind  from  playing 
havoc  on  one 's  head.  The  wardrobe  is  unusually  simple, 
consisting  in  my  case,  as  in  that  of  most  of  the  others, 
of  a  woollen  shirt,  linen  trousers,  and  shoes  without  stock- 
ings; a  cap  completed  the  outfit  ordinarily.  A  coat  is 
only  worn  on  cold  days  and  I  wore  my  stockings  only  at 
the  beginning  of  the  voyage  and  later  on  woollen  ones 
near  Cape  Horn.  About  half-past  six  each  one  of  us  re- 
ceived two  quarts  of  coffee  in  his  mug,  which  was  given 
us  at  the  kitchen.  The  time  till  noon  was  spent  in  any 
way  the  individual  passenger  would  choose,  for  better 
or  worse.  At  twelve  o'clock,  dinner  was  served.  Every 
two  bunks  were  entitled  to  one  mess,  which  one  of  the 
two  occupants  had  to  fetch  in  large  wooden  bowl  from 
the  cook.  Though  our  bill  of  fare  was  exceedingly  plain, 
as  is  natural,  it  consisted  of  nutritious  and  verj^  digesti- 
ble food,  the  preparation  of  which  was  not  to  be  com- 
plained of,  although  one  must  bear  in  mind  that  we  were 
only  steerage  passengers.  We  had:  Mondays,  white  peas 
and  pork;  Tuesdays,  rice-soup  and  beef;  Wednesdays, 
sauer-kraut  and  pork;  Thursdays,  rice-soup  and  beef; 
Fridays,  lentils  with  pork;  Saturdays,  peeled  barley 
with  prunes  and  herring;  Sunday,  pudding  with  prune- 
sauce  and  beef.  Outside  of  that  we  were  treated  to  pota- 
toes every  day  until  July.  Sauer-kraut  and  lentils  were 
in  time  replaced  by  peas.  By  meat,  of  course,  salted  meat 
is  meant.  We  likewise  received  every  week:  Five 
pounds  of  wheat-crackers,  which  satisfied  the  appetite  of 
the  most  greedy.  Rye-crackers  were  considered  a  deli- 
cacy, as  only  a  small  quantity  had  found  its  way  on  board. 
Again:  one-half  pound  of  butter;  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
yellow  farina-sugar  (so-called),  mustard,  salt  and  vine- 


88     EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

gar  for  every  passenger.  Eacli  one,  of  course,  had  to 
clean  liis  tinware,  etc.,  and  was  then  at  liberty  to  do  as  he 
chose  until  tea-time,  which  was  about  half-past  six  or 
earlier,  according  to  the  approach  of  darkness;  it  was 
distributed  like  the  coffee,  and  everybody  was  at  liberty 
to  add  sugar  or  brandy  to  suit  himself.  I  preferred  to 
drink  both  tea  and  coffee  without  any  addition..  Bed- 
time was  not  set. 

This  way  of  living  appears  very  monotonous,  as  every 
day  is  the  precise  renewal  of  the  preceding  one;  and  con- 
sequently most  passengers  were  more  annoyed  by  ennui 
than  they  had  previously  been  by  seasickness.  As  to 
mj'self  I  have  not  given  up  my  old  belief  that  a  man  is 
to  a  great  extent  the  arbiter  or  maker  of  his  own  experi- 
ences— the  cause  of  the  effects.  I  never  suffered  for  want 
of  something  to  do  or  think  about,  and  I  have  stood  as 
much  and  perhaps  more  chance  of  becoming  lonesome 
than  any  one  else  on  board.  Of  course  I  looked  around 
for  some  agreeable  work  to  kill  time  with,  and  thus  I 
took  to  painting,  of  which  there  is  always  plenty  to  be 
done  on  board  a  vessel.  If  it  really  happened  that  I  could 
not  find  anything  to  do,  I  enjoyed  a  rest  as  well,  particu- 
larly in  the  evening  about  tea-time.  Sitting  on  the  rear 
end,  my  feet  dangling  over  the  rail,  I  watched  the  ever- 
changing  course  of  waves  and  clouds  for  hours,  and  en- 
joying my  cigar.  Wondrously  beautiful  were  the  pic- 
tures of  nature  at  sun-set,  when  waves  and  clouds  ap- 
peared in  magnificent  colors,  especially  in  the  tropics  of 
the  Atlantic;  later  in  the  evening,  when  the  play  of  col- 
ors ceased,  the  soft  light  of  the  moon  played  strange 
tricks,  outlining  all  kinds  of  fantastic  forms  and  shapes, 
and  enveloping  them  with  a  silvery  halo. 

Thus  were  the  clouds  distributed  on  the  horizon  of  the 
dark  blue  Heavens,  bestrewn  with  millions  of  shining 
lights,  large  and  small,  and  separated  from  the  rising  and 
falling  waves  of  the  ocean,  the  ever-swinging  surface  of 
which  reproduces  in  magnificence  the  thousands  of  little 
white  stars,  tbrowing  them,  as  it  seems,  about  and  reflect- 
ing the  glittering  rays  of  the  moon,  which  is  resting  on 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  89 

the  summit  of  yonder  cloud.  But  I  do  not  want  to  enter 
the  realm  of  dreams,  and  therefore  will  return  to  the 
diary  of  my  voyage. 

We  had  arrived  in  the  channel  on  June  the  17th  about 
two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  wind  blew  from  the 
North  and  we  turned  our  course  toward  the  West.  We 
soon  came  so  close  to  Calais  that  it  was  not  only  possible 
for  us  to  distinguish  the  steeples  and  houses  of  this  quaint 
little  town,  but  even  the  masts  of  the  ships  in  the  harbor, 
notwithstanding  the  unfavorable  weather,  which  only 
permitted  us  to  recognize  that  part  of  the  English  coast 
which  stretches  from  North  Foreland  to  Dover  Castle.  The 
wind  did  not  permit  us  to  approach  it  any  closer  than  two 
miles,  so  that  one  could  see  no  more  than  the  gigantic 
outline  of  its  rocky  walls.  At  sun-set  the  wind  calmed 
down  complete!}^  and  the  evening  was  so  beautiful  that 
even  the  victims  of  seasickness  crawled  out  of  their  cells 
to  enjoy  the  splendid  view.  From  starboard  one  could 
obser\^e  the  English  coast,  whose  bluish  rocks  were  a  fit 
part  in  the  unusual  sceneiy  of  the  evening,  while  the  set- 
ting sun  shed  its  golden  rays  over  the  terraces  of  the 
chalk  rocks  of  Cape  Gi'isnez.  About  us  was  the  channel, 
smooth  and  silent  as  the  mirror  of  a  lake  upon  which 
the  soft  gliding  of  the  vessel  could  hardly  be  heard.  The 
night  covered  the  scene  by  and  by  with  her  star-spangled 
heavens,  and  when  we  at  last  turned  toward  our  berths 
we  had  reached  Dungeness,  the  red  lights  of  which  were 
plainly  visible  to  our  view.  From  the  Northeast  shone 
the  bright  fires  of  Dover,  which  towers  upon  the  high 
coast;  behind  us,  toward  the  East,  we  saw  the  brilliant 
fires  of  Grisnez  and  further  South  sparkled  the  blaze  of 
Boulogne.  The  greater  part  of  the  following  day  we  had 
contrary  Western  winds  which  compelled  us  to  make 
short  cruises.  The  cold  and  foggy  air  did  not  make  out 
trip  through  the  channel  much  more  agreeable  than  that 
of  the  Elbe  and  North  Sea,  though  we  had  occasion  to 
see  some  very  interesting  sights. 

Early  the  next  morning,  Wednesday,  the  18th,  on  which 
the  beauty  of  the  night  before  had  still  left  its  imprint. 


90  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

we  found  ourselves  surrounded  by  a  great  many  vessels, 
increasing  in  number  as  the  forenoon  passed,  so  that  I 
counted  toward  noon  about  sixty-four  of  them  with  full 
sails,  which  offered  a  magnificent  spectacle,  the  splendor 
of  which  was  heightened  by  the  noonday  sun.  Until  sev- 
en o'clock  we  were  unable  to  see  anything  but  the  im- 
mense chalk-rocks  of  Beachy-head,  which  we  observed 
from  the  star-board.  The  breeze  increased  during  the 
day  to  such  an  extent  that  top-sails  had  to  be  fastened 
about  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  just  found 
ourselves  opposite  the  pretty  city  of  Brighton,  half  a  mile 
away.  We  were  able  to  distinguish  not  only  the  houses, 
trees,  etc.,  of  this  charming  little  town,  but  could  even 
watch  the  outgoing  train,  speeding  along  the  green, 
mountainous  coast,  bound  for  London.  By  means  of  tel- 
escopes we  distinguished  several  pedestrians,  especially 
on  the  Grande  terrace,  which  I  recognized  at  once,  as  well 
as  the  royal  pavilion,  built  in  Chinese  style,  which  are 
so  well  pictured  in  Myer's  Universal  Lexicon  (Cyclo- 
pedia). The  coast  of  Cowes  was  reached  and  passed  dur- 
ing the  night.  Our  cruise  on  Thursday  was  hindered  by 
stormy  West-wind  and  such  a  rain-stomi  that  we  could 
hardly  see  a  ship's  length  ahead.  The  fog  cleared  about 
one  o'clock  and  then,  the  Isle  of  Wight,  with  its  high 
rocks,  came  to  view.  While  the  raging  waves  were  break- 
ing on  stony  shore,  a  passing  sun-ray  dimly  lightened  its 
crumbling  walls.  Within  a  minute's  time  the  fog  thick- 
ened again  and  deprived  us  of  the  sight  which  had  caused 
a  surprise,  as  we  had  found  ourselves  within  a  thousand 
yards  of  the  breakers.  Good  care  was  taken  to  steer  at 
once  toward  the  French  coast.  Four  smaller,  vessels, 
which  were  between  us  and  the  breakers,  did  likewise, 
and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  they,  too,  escaped  the  danger, 
though  the  immediate  thickening  of  the  fog  prevented  us 
from  watching  them.  On  Friday,  the  20th,  we  remained 
almost  without  wind  and  not  until  evening  could  we  sight 
any  land,  when  the  island  of  Portsmouth  with  its  pic- 
turesque chalk  rocks  appeared  at  a  distance  of  about  four 
miles  and  later  in  the  night  I  caught  a  glimpse  of  the 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  91 

French  coast  near  Clierbourg  in  the  southern  horizon. 
The  English  coast  came  plainly  to  view  on  Saturday 
forenoon,  when  we  enjoyed  clear  weather  which,  how- 
ever, did  not  enable  us  to  see  much  more  of  it  than  we 
had  seen  of  the  French  coast,  as  our  last  glimpse  of  Eng- 
land or  Europe  was  taken  about  three  o  'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, when  we  reached  within  a  mile  the  cliff  of  Eddy- 
stone.  The  fresh  sea-breeze  and  customary  fog  did  not 
permit  us  to  tarry  and  we  soon  lost  sight  of  the  island, 
which  consists  of  two  black  cliffs,  separated  by  a  small 
canal,  the  larger  one  of  which  projects  about  twenty  feet 
and  is  made  noticeable  by  its  celebrated  lighthouse. 

Landsend,  as  it  is  called,  was  reached  about  eight 
o'clock  Sunday  morning  under  stormy  N.  N.  W.  wind, 
with  no  land  in  sight.  Thus  commenced  a  new  turn  in 
my  voyage,  not  wholly  agreeable.  When  we  entered  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  or  rather  the  Bay  of  Biscaya,  the  weather 
was  so  cold  that  I  felt  compelled  to  wear  my  heavy  sack 
coat  whenever  I  intended  to  stay  on  deck. 

As  long  as  we  remained  in  the  Spanish  sea,»  passing 
Gape  Finisterre  (Spain)  on  Thursday,  the  26th,  wind 
and  weather  were  rather  favorable,  though  the  former 
blew  but  lightly,  while  the  latter  continued  cold.  From 
the  day  we  had  left  the  Channel  I  noticed  a  remarkable 
change  in  the  color  of  the  water.  While  the  North  sea 
and  Channel  differ  little  from  the  Baltic,  being  all  dark 
blue  green  in  coIot,  the  two  former  are  considerably  clear- 
er than  our  native  sea,  which  is  the  case  of  the  Atlantic 
waters.  I  cannot  find  a  suitable  expression  to  describe 
the  clear,  transparent,  carmine  blue  of  the  Atlantic  ocean. 
The  color  remains  everywhere  the  same,  as  I  have  been 
unable  to  see  any  difference,  neither  in  the  tropics  nor 
in  the  southern  hemisphere  is  it  more  beautiful  than  at 
the  entrance  into  the  Bay  of  Biscaya.  It  almost  seemed 
as  if  the  transparency  of  the  water  was  more  noticeable 
when  we  approached  the  Equator  and  lessened  as  we  went 
more  southward  but  in  that  I  may  have  been  mistaken; 
at  all  events  the  difference  would  be  very  slight.  To  give 
you  a  correct  idea  I  will  say  that  we  could  distinguish 


92  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  nails  and  dents  in  the  copper  sheathings  of  our  keel, 
which  was  fully  fifteen  feet  under  water,  and  as  plainly 
as  if  the  Victoria  were  in  dock,  and  we  were  looking 
through  blue  colored  glass.  Moreover,  we  could  tell  the 
color  and  size  of  the  fishes  and  describe  their  shapes 
though  they  went  far  below  the  keel.  The  color  of  the 
water  at  the  turning  point  from  the  Channel  into  the  At- 
lantic was,  strangely  enough  of  a  beautiful  grass  green. 

Another  phenomenon  which  one  has  opportunity  to 
obsen^e  in  the  Biscayan  Bay,  is  the  well-known  much  de- 
scribed and  talked  of  ocean  phosphorescence.  It  was 
Tuesday,  the  24th  of  June.  The  wind  had  been  mild  all 
day  and  the  sun  did  its  work;  about  eight  in  the  evening 
a  light  southeast  wind  arose  which  grew  stronger  with 
the  coming  darkness,  so  that  the  ship  soon  went  flying 
through  the  quiet  ocean,  which  reflected  the  innumerable 
stars  of  the  firmament  upon  its  dark,  billowy  surface. 

Wherever  the  bow  of  the  vessel  caused  a  broad  foamy 
wave,  it  would  resemble  a  bluish  white  moon  ray  repro- 
duction in  the  dusty  cascade,  created  by  a  turning  mill 
wheel.  From  the  long  and  narrow  strips  of  dark  colored 
water,  which  were  visible  between  the  flakes  of  foam,  as 
they  passed  the  sides  of  the  ship,  there  sprang  forth  in- 
numerable dark  red  sparks,  like  burning  coal,  in  shapes 
of  stars,  rings  and  fire  balls,  forming  a  beautiful  contrast 
to  the  foamy  cascade  already  described. 

I  scarcely  believe  that  you  will  be  able  to  get  a  correct 
conception  of  the  remarkable  phenomenon  from  my  de- 
scription, as  one  cannot  possibly  relate  it  intelligently  to 
those  who  have  never  seen  it.  Whenever  I  witnessed 
such  a  spectacle  it  invariably  impressed  me  deeply  and 
when  I  saw  it  the  first  time  I  remained  on  deck  till  after 
midnight. 

On  the  following  Sunday,  in  a  heavy  thunderstorm, 
accompanied  by  lightning,  we  saw  the  ocean  covered  with 
fiery  sparks  and  a  procession  of  mackerel,  splashing  along 
our  boat  side,  which  made  the  spectacle  really  worth  see- 
ing. Each  one  of  these  fishes  glittered  golden  red  and 
drew,  as  it  were,  a  long  sparkling  trail  behind  him,  which 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  93 

enabled  us  to  watch  the  fiery  procession  long  after  they 
had  passed  our  ship.  Another  beautiful  sight  was  caused 
by  the  wake  of  our  ship  which  resembled  the  passing 
smoke  of  a  bright  fire  and  could  be  observed  at  a  distance 
of  fully  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  However,  it  is  an 
erroneous  supposition  that  the  ocean  produces  such  lights 
on  every  dark  night.  Even  in  the  tropics  these  phenom- 
ena are  rare  occurrences.  A  week  would  pass  at  times 
during  which  we  hardly  noticed  a  spark,  and  only  then 
when  a  procession  of  fish  or  a  passing  vessel  would  cause 
a  sudden  break  in  the  water.  The  most  magnificent  dis- 
play of  this  phenomenon  I  ever  witnessed  occurred  on 
the  15th  of  July,  under  the  eighth  degree  of  northern 
latitude,  a  description  of  which  I  shall  give  you  later 
on— south  of  the  La  Plata,  one  can  only  see  a  few  sparks 
now  and  then  and  only  on  unusually  dark  nights;  below 
Cape  Horn  nothing  at  all.  I  am  told,  on  the  other  hand, 
that  during  severe  stonny  winters  there  are  phosphores- 
cent displays  in  this  latitude  which  outrank  in  splendor 
anything  ever  witnessed  in  other  parts.  I  have  had  no 
opportunity  of  verifying  this,  however. 

As  previously  mentioned,  we  left  the  Bay  of  Biscaya 
on  Thursday,  June  26th.  On  Saturday  we  communicated 
with  an  Austrian  bark,  "Nero,"  which  was  north-bound 
and  sailing  under  14°  36m.  of  Greenwich  W.  longitude, 
and  41°  20m.  N.  lat.;  it  was  taking  freight  from,  Odessa 
to  Antwerp.  The  same  evening  we  obsei*\^ed  a  little  bird, 
homeward  bound.  The  wind  continued  to  be  light  and 
contrary,  often  entirely  absent.  We  again  had  a  chance 
to  speak  an  English  vessel,  the  brig  ''Euphemia,"  which 
carried  freight  from  London  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
and  had  been  on  her  trip  from  Doverress  about  a  fort- 
night, now,  like  ourselves,  taking  a  southern  course.  "We 
sighted  the  first  dolphins  on  Tuesday,  when  twenty  of 
them  were  playing  around  our  ship  and  the  next  morn- 
ing, Wednesday,  the  2d,  we  were  surprised  beyond  de- 
scription to  be  caught  by  a  N.  E.  monsoon  or  trade  wind 
which  rarely  goes  beyond  Madeira,  while  we  had  only 
reached  the  latitude  of  Gibraltar.    As  we  now  went  along 


94  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

with  extradrdinary  speed,  making  as  many  as  eleven 
knots  an  hour,  it  was  not  astonishing  that  we  caught 
sight  of  Madeira  about  three  o'clock  the  following  after- 
noon. We  passed  within  a  distance  of  four  (German) 
miles  and  even  then  it  was  hardly  possible  for  us  to  dis- 
tinguish anything  but  a  bare  outline  of  the  island,  which 
appeared  east  of  us;  the  northern  part  of  the  island  lost 
itself  in  the  blue  fog  of  the  evening,  which  covered  the 
horizon  as  usual  and  which  enveloped  everything,  thus 
depriving  us  of  a  good  view.  The  sun  fortunately  broke 
through  for  a  few  minutes,  as  late  as  seven  o  'clock  in  the 
evening,  when  we  caught  sight  of  the  high,  rocky  coast, 
which  appeared  as  steep  as  a  wall  in  the  reddish  light 
of  the  setting  sun.  Madeira  is  built  upon  this  wall  and 
rises  about  2,500  feet  in  conic  sections.  It  was  a  beauti- 
ful sight,  when  the  top  of  this  island  mountain  glittered 
above  the  clouds  in  the  slowly  disappearing  coloring  of 
the  evening,  while  the  lower  clouds  seemed  to  separate 
the  peak  from  its  body.  The  approaching  darkness  made 
it  impossible  to  see  anything  more  until  about  eight 
o'clock,  when  the  moon  had  gained  strength  enough  to 
draw  fantastic  sketches  of  Madeira  upon  the  dark  clouds 
of  the  night.  The  monsoon  filled  our  sails  and  having 
the  larboard  sails  up  on  either  side,  we  went  along  at 
rapid  speed.  The  sea  went  high,  but  the  whitecaps  which 
it  threw  up  did  not  cause  phosphorescent  light,  though 
they  surrounded  the  ship  like  a  mighty  girdle;  only  now 
and  then  appeared  a  single  spark. 

Wlien  I  awoke  the  next  morning,  Friday,  July  4th,  T 
went  on  deck,  but  iVfadeira  had  already  disappeared  from 
our  horizon  and  the  ship  went  with  full  sails  into  the  im- 
mense desert  of  water,  which  had  often  been  the  theme 
of  my  childhood  dreams  and  the  subject  for  fruitful  med- 
itations of  later  years.  For  sixty-two  days  I  saw  around 
me  nothing  but  sky  and  water,  clouds  and  waves;  no  rest- 
ing place  for  the  searching  eye  but,  maybe,  a  lonely  sail 
at  great  distance;  the  tired  wings  of  a  rare  bird  or  the 
dumb  inhabitants  of  that  unreliable  but  beautiful,  that 
terrible  and  yet  so  charming,  that  restless,  haunted  and 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  95 

yet  to  me  so  infinitely  attractive  element  which  we  were 
now  speeding  through. 

It  was  not  until  the  4th  of  September  that  we  caught 
sight  of  land ;  the  desolate  wilderness  of  the  snowy  moun- 
tains of  the  Fireland  (terra  del  fuego).  Saturday,  the 
5th  of  July,  I  saw  flying  fisli  for  the  first  time;  it  appears 
to  be  the  most  common  among  the  inliabitants  of  the  trop- 
ical waters,  for  hardly  a  day  passed  in  which  we  did 
not  see  one  or  more  processions  of  them.  They  are  gen- 
erally seen  in  very  large  numbers,  often  as  many  as  a 
hundred  or  more,  rarely  alone.  The  flying  fish  resem- 
bles the  trout  to  some  extent  but  reaches  hardly  three 
or  four  inches  in  length.  By  means  of  breast  fins,  which 
are  unusually  well  developed  and  reaching  from  head  to 
tail,  it  raises  itself  above  the  water  and  appears  in  purest 
silvery  light.  The  rapidit;/  of  its  motion  may  be  com- 
pared to  that  of  our  ocean  swallows.  It  jumps  about  ten 
feet  above  the  water  and  then  manages  to  sail  a  dis- 
tance of  ten  to  fifteen  yards  through  the  air;  I  have  even 
watched  some  of  them  that  covered  fully  two-  or  three 
times  the  distance.  Another  fish  which  is  very  often 
met  with  in  the  tropics  is  the  tumbler  or  porpoise.  It 
measures  about  three  or  four  feet  in  length  and  nearly 
one  foot  in  diameter,  brown  on  top  and  white  at  the  belly; 
it  generally  keeps  close  to  the  surface  and  travels  in 
company  of  four  or  five;  now  and  then  it  jumps  a  few 
feet  above  the  water  and  is  rather  lively  for  its  size. 
Among  those  that  resemble  the  tumbler  is  the  jumper  or 
hog  fish,  ^lien  we  saw  these  animals  for  the  first  time, 
on  July  22d,  they  approached  us  in  immense  numbers 
— by  thousands— and  the  sight  of  their  bodies  and  mo- 
tions were  so  comical  that  every  mother's  son  of  us  had 
to  laugh  until  he  was  completely  exhausted.  The  shape, 
as  the  name  of  the  animal  indicates,  resembles  that  of  a 
clumsy  pig;  on  its  back  is  a  large,  strong  fin  about  six 
inches  long  and  bent  backward.  The  motion  consists  of 
a  big  jump  forward  by  which  it  raises  itself  several  feet 
above  the  water  in  a  half  circle,  returning  head  first  into 
its  fonxier  element.    Like  the  tumbler,  the  hog  fish  very 


9e  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

often  weighs  close  to  five  hundred  pounds,  though  only 
three  or  four  feet  in  length. 

Another  fish,  which  is  not  quite  as  common,  however, 
is  the  bonito,  about  one  and  a  half  to  two  feet  long  and 
closely  resembling  our  pike.  I  never  remember  having 
seen  him  deeper  than  ten  to  fifteen  feet  from  the  surface, 
where  it  appeared  in  beautiful  golden  and  emerald  col- 
ors, but  I  dare  not  say  that  such  is  in  reality  its  make-up, 
as  one  is  often  deceived  by  the  bluish  transparency  of 
the  water  in  tropical  climates,  which  gives  a  lustre  to 
the  color  of  the  fishes  which  they  lose  as  soon  as  they 
are  taken  out  of  their  element. 

These  are  the  four  kinds  which  one  meets  most  fre- 
quently, as  other  species  are  rarely  seen  and  never  in 
great  numbers.  For  instance,  it  happened  on  the  14th  of 
July,  toward  evening,  that  we  observed  two  ores  (a  small 
sort  of  whale)  which  passed  close  by  our  ship  and  we 
were  able  to  see  their  protruding  backs,  which  easily 
measured  twelve  feet  in  length  and  two  or  three  feet  vis- 
ible width.  But  you  will  ask  in  astonishment:  "Wliere 
is  the  much  dreaded  shark?"  Strangely  enough,  I  have 
seen  but  one  during  my  whole  voyage.  This  said  shark 
was  seen  by  us  all  on  Wednesday,  July  the  9th,  in  the 
afternoon  and  there  is  no  need  of  telling  you  that  our 
whole  ship  became  alarmed,  while  it  did  not  bother  itself 
at  all  about  us,  following  its  course  in  crossing  our  keel. 
Whales  were  more  numerous,  especially  in  more  southern 
regions,  where  the  jumping  fish  and  other  species  afore- 
mentioned came  no  more  in  sight.  All  counted,  I  may 
have  seen  twenty  of  them,  mostly  at  a  distance. 

Thus  much  about  the  fishes  and  now  back  to  my  trip. 

For  ten  successive  days  we  had  the  North  East  ]\fon- 
soon  filling  our  sails,  and  experienced  but  one  short  inter- 
ruption on  the  fourth  of  July,  when  a  fresh  East  wind 
set  in;  the  remaining  time  till  the  eleventh  of  July  there 
was  absolutely  no  change,  not  even  in  the  wind's  force. 
Our  lar  sails  were  up  day  and  night,  which  increased  our 
rapidity  considerably. 

The  weather  remained  cool  and  agreeable  and  every- 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  97 

tiling-  possible  was  done  to  make  our  voyage  as  pleasant 
as  could  be  expected,  and  this  period  in  particular  will 
always  be  pleasantly  remembered.  Tlie  only  privation 
was  caused  by  the  bad  drinking  water,  in  regard  to  which 
I  find  the  first  notice  in  my  diary  of  July  4:th.  I  wrote 
it  in  the  spirit  of  real  depression  and  in  the  meantime 
in  the  consciousness  of  such,  weakness  as  one  experiences 
when  the  pangs  of  real  thirst  are  torturing  body  and 
mind. 

I  formerly  often  thought  myself  thirsty,  but  it  is  my 
present  conviction  that  I  never  knew  what  real  thirst 
meant  until  I  experienced  it  on  this  voyage,  in  the  days 
when  I  hesitated  to  the  last  moment  before  I  dared  to 
take  a  few  swallows  of  the  black,  yellowish,  disgustingly 
warm  water,  which  emitted  an  odor  that  was  equal  only  to 
its  putridity,  and  yet  it  was  not  that  which  made  me 
hesitate,  no  indeed!  The  real  thirst  does  not  know  of 
such  foolish  notions;  it  was  only  because  my  ration  would 
thus  grow  smaller!  Fortunately,  this  privation  lasted 
only  a  fortnight  or  so,  when  we  enjoyed  better  water, 
though  our  Fregel  (river)  at  home  would  have  been  a 
dispenser  of  delicacy  in  comparison  with  the  quality  of 
the  ship's  supply.  During  that  period  I  had  ample 
opportunity  to  meditate  upon  the  rare  enjoyment  which 
is  derived  from  a  glass  of  clear,  cold,  fresh  well-water 
and  I  would  have  derived  great  pleasure  in  treating  to 
my  daily  refreshments  some  of  those  fools  who  will  pour 
a  glass  of  delicious  well  water  upon  the  sand  on  account 
of  a  little  dust  or  perhaps  only  a,  gnat  which  has  fallen 
into  it.  Our  drinking  water  contained  other  things  than 
dust  or  dead  gnats. 

We  passed  the  northern  tropic  circle  on  July  the  7th, 
about  half  past  four  in  the  afternoon.  The  temperature 
was  cool  and  agreeable,  while  the  air  was  "flabby,"  to 
use  a  sailor's  expression,  which  means  dull,  without 
being  foggy  or  cloudy,  a  peculiarity  of  the  latitudes  of 
the  northern  as  well  as  southern  tropic  circles,  where, 
with  the  exception  of  the  noon  hour,  one  cannot  count 
upon  clearness  and  brightness  of  the  air. 

7 


98  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

On  the  following  day  we  had  the  sun  almost  vertically 
over  our  heads,  the  angle  from  our  vessel  to  the  Northern 
horizon  measuring  89  degTees.  Tlie  day  before  the  sun 
stood  on  the  Southern  heavens  at  an  angle  measuring  87  V2 
degrees.  The  ship  would  only  throw  shadow  when  it 
bent  to  one  side  or  the  other  and  my  own  shadow  could 
be  measured  by  putting  my  feet  slightly  apart,  thereby 
having  even  the  tips  of  my  shoes  and  the  calves  out  of 
the  shade.  The  air  was  slightly  clouded,  but  not  at  all 
oppressive.  When  evening  arrived  we  enjoyed  the  prox- 
imity of  another  vessel ;  it  was  moonlight  and  about  nine 
o'clock  when  we  noticed  a  large  bark  coming  from  nortn- 
east,  while  our  course  was  S.  W.  %  S.  Though  within 
a  short  distance  neither  a  lantern  nor  any  other  signal 
appeared,  consequently  we  continued  our  course  without 
noticing  the  strange  vessel  any  further,  which  followed 
for  a  while  in  our  wake.  T\1ien  morning  came  we  had 
lost  sight  of  it  entirely. 

Until  the  eleventh  of  July  nothing  noteworthy  oc- 
curred. On  this  day,  at  one  0  'clock,  a  magnificent,  pow- 
erful osprey  had  taken  a  temporary  rest  on  our  wedge 
yard,  when  Capt.  ]\Ieyer  took  a  shot  at  him.  Tlie  beau- 
tiful animal  measured  about  six  feet  from  tip  to  tip. 
Tliis  deed  of  useless  cruelty  was  immediately  avenged, 
for,  scarcely  did  the  dying  bird  lay  in  his  last  agony, 
when  the  favorable  wind  suddenly  changed  to  a  deadly 
calm,  the  first  one  we  had  really  experienced  during  our 
whole  voyage.  We  therefore  were  glad  when,  about  four 
o'clock,  a  mild  Southeastern  breeze  set  in,  followed  by  a 
slight  rain;  the  sea  rose  considerably  as  a  last  farewell 
of  the  departed  Northeast  Monsoon. 

The  evening  of  this  day  offered  one  of  the  rare  spec- 
tacles which  is  seen  only  in  the  tropics,  and  though  I  am 
well  convinced  that  not  even  the  most  enthusiastic  de- 
scription could  give  a  clear  conception  of  the  gorgeous 
magnificence  to  one  who  has  never  been  an  eye  witness 
of  it,  I  will  nevertheless  try  to  describe  the  phenomenon 
in  the  best  manner  of  which  I  am  capable. 

We  had  sunset  about  six  o'clock  and  it  seemed  as  if 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  99 

the  parting  rays  intended  to  make  the  best  of  the  few 
minutes^  time  assigned  to  them.  The  clouds  of  the  heav- 
ens were  their  objects  and  the  wide  horizon  their  play 
yard,  which  soon  appeared  in  the  most  exquisite  color- 
ings, from  the  deepest  violet  to  the  lightest  carnation, 
and  shining  golden  yellow ;  the  wonderful  shapes  of  colors 
and  clouds  were  such  that  it  really  did  not  require  an 
enthusiast  to  recognize  the  most  charming  mountain 
scenes,  forests,  valleys,  snow-caps,  ruins  of  the  middle 
ages,  whole  cities  and  villages  in  those  fantastic  shapes. 
Eveiy  second  brought  new  changes,  not  only  in  the  forms, 
but  in  colors ;  when  one  would  fade  another  would  appear 
in  its  brightest  hue,  and  so  on. 

The  surface  of  the  ocean  appeared  like  a  mirror  with 
the  exception  of  the  slow  waves  which  measured  about 
a  hundred  feet  in  width,  and  the  reproduction  of  the 
burning  colors  of  the  horizon  upon  the  quiet  waters  was 
almost  as  marvelous  as  the  scene  above.  Turning  to  the 
east,  one  would  be  struck  by  a  different  but  not  less  beau- 
tiful spectacle.  The  full  moon  had  arisen  and  shone 
through  the  foggy  evening  atmosphere,  its  full  light  was 
cast  upon  dark  grey  figures,  nO'  less  strange  than  those 
of  the  western  part  of  the  horizon  and  throwing  upon  the 
water  the  floating  silvery  bridge  which  I  had  often 
watched  with  longing,  dreaming  glance  while  sitting  on 
the  banks  of  our  little  lake  or  river  at  home.  Thus  we 
were  placed  between  two  beautiful  heavens,  representing 
evening  and  night,  purer  and  more  marvelously  beautiful 
than  I  had  ever  seen  them  before. 

The  light  Southeast  wind  blew  hardly  enough  to  fill  the 
upper  sails,  while  the  lower  ones  struck  constantly 
against  masts  and  spars,  creating  the  only  noise  in  the 
prevailing  sultry  silence. 

Everybody  was  on  deck,  lounging  quietly  during  the 
oppressive  heat.  The  man  at  the  wheel  had  just  rung 
his  seven  bells  when  my  curiosity  was  aroused  by  a 
strange,  raven  black  cloud  of  unusual  shape,  which  ap- 
peared upon  the  Southwestern  horizon.  At  first  it  ap- 
proached slowly,  then  quicker  and  quicker,  taking  larger 


100  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

proportions  and  reflecting  its  gloom  upon  tlie  quiet  At- 
lantic, for  the  lustre  of  the  heaven  had  vanished  quite 
a  while  before.  Soon  I  noticed  in  the  cloud  a  white-yel- 
lowish spot,  which  grew  likewise  to  uncomfortable  dimen- 
sions until  it  was  over  our  heads.  I  watched  the  phenom- 
enon breathlessly  and,  as  I  had  often  before  heard  of  it 
as  indicating  a  windstorm,  I  notified  the  pilot,  who  had 
just  come  out  of  his  cabin.  He  gave  a  quick  glance  at  the 
cloud,  and  then  came  the  command  to  fasten  the  jib, 
wedge  and  topsails  and  so  on.  No  sooner  were  the  prep- 
arations completed  than  it  grew  quite  dark,  a  few  heavy 
raindrops  commenced  to  fall,  whilst  eveiything  was  still 
as  death.  I  nervously  awaited  the  things  to  come.  Soon 
I  heard  a  peculiar  roar  in  the  air  and  our  ship  was 
shoTtly  after  tossed  over  on  one  side  with  such  terrific 
force  of  the  gale  that  those  who  had  not  taken  the  precau- 
tion of  steadying  themselves  in  some  manner  would  surely 
have  fallen  to  the  floor.  The  sails  commenced  to  fill  and 
the  Victoria  gained  slowly  but  surely,  cutting  a  mighty 
wave  in  two  with  its  broad  bow,  thereby  pushing 
aside  the  unruly  waters.  Then  came  the  flight! 
"What  speed!  We  went  along  like  lightning,  but  in  the 
meantime  there  was  a  rush  for  shelter,  as  the  rain  came 
down  in  such  torrents  that  it  resembled  the  outpouring  of 
one  ocean  into  another.  All  this  lasted  about  half  an 
hour,  after  which  rain  and  wind  slowly  subsided,  and  we 
fell  as  soundly  asleep  as  if  we  had  been  ashore. 

From  the  following  day  until  Wednesday,  the  16th, 
there  was  complete  calm.  How  all  this  affects  the  mind 
can  only  be  appreciated  by  one  who  has  lived  through 
similar  experiences.  We  were  sailing  at  this  time  be- 
tween the  tenth  and  eleventh  degTee  of  Northern  latitude. 

The  intense  heat  of  the  sun  bums  one's  brain,  the  per- 
spiration opens  all  pores  and,  notwithstanding  the  great 
exhaustion,  one  can  hardly  find  a  moment's  sleep  on  ac- 
count of  the  depressing  heat.  In  addition  to  that,  we 
had  to  endure  a  burning  thirst,  which  our  daily  allowance 
of  a  pint  of  stale,  warm  water  was  unable  to  quench.  A 
good  rain  fortunately  changed  the  atmosphere  and  we 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  101 

were  able  to  refresh  ourselves,  if  only  for  a  short  while. 
Our  eyes  also  were  henceforth  treated  to  daily  changes, 
as  we  could  now  observe  many  passing  vessels. 

To  him  who  has  never  made  a  sea  voyage  it  seems  to 
be  almost  impossible  for  ships  to  change  position  in  time 
of  complete  calm.  But  so  it  is  and  it  does  not  take  much 
mental  effort  to  account  for  it.  One  can  plainly  see  ves- 
sels on  a  bright  day  at  a  distance  of  about  six  German 
miles  and  even  further  away  if  they  lie  within  the  observ- 
er's clear  horizon,  turning  the  shady  side  of  their  sails 
toward  him  or,  the  contrary,  if  they  show  the  sunny  side 
of  their  sails  on  a  darker  horizon.  However,  a  given 
vessel  will  remain  invisible  to  the  eye  of  a  keen  observer 
if  even  on  a  bright  day  and  at  half  the  distance  men- 
tioned nothing  be  offered  but  the  narrow  edge  of  its 
sails.  Now  as  at  the  time  of  a  complete  calm  the  vessels 
keep  revolving  very  slowly  but  constantly,  which,  in  sea- 
man's parlance,  is  often  called  a  ''falling  off,"  it  will 
become  plain  that  one  can  speak  truly  of  seeing  and 
losing  sight  of  a  vessel  at  comparatively  short  intervals, 
according  to  their  position  relatively  to  the  sun's  rays. 
Aside  from  all  this  it  will  sometimes  really  happen  that 
ships  which  have  not  been  within  one's  horizon  will  ap- 
pear and  disappear.  Even  a  ''dead  calm"  on  the  Atlan- 
tic must  not  be  thought  of  as  indicating  that  one  cannot 
notice  the  least  little  breeze ;  such  an  occurrence  is  very 
rare,  however,  and  of  short  duration.  One  generally 
notices  a  slight  breath  of  wind,  now  from  one,  then  from 
another  direction,  lasting  sometimes  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
at  other  times  longer,  even  for  hours,  before  it  dies  away. 
These  little  currents  are,  of  course,  utilized  as  much  as 
possible,  though  the  actual  progress  may  be  exceedingly 
slow,  as  was  for  instance  the  case  from  noon  of  the  13th 
to  the  evening  of  the  14th,  during  which  time  our  ship 
gained  only  five  miles,  it  nevertheless  shows  that  the 
distance  between  the  different  vessels  will  vary  from 
time  to  time.  The  current  of  the  waters  cuts  likewise  a 
great  figure,  which  was  particularly  the  case  during  the 
calm  just  mentioned,  when  the  current  was  so  strong  that 


102  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  ' 

it  caused  quite  an  unheaval,  during  which  one  could  notice 
a  lively  curling  of  the  surface.  It  was  likewise  during 
this  calm  that  we  experienced  the  greatest  heat  of  the 
voyage;  thus,  for  instance,  on  July  13th  about  twO'  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon  we  registered  no  less  than  twenty-nine 
degrees  Reaumur  in  the  shade,  though  the  air  was 
clouded.  It  was  a  rare  pleasure  when  the  temperature 
fell  below  twenty  degrees  either  morning  or  evening. 

Though  I  have  repeatedly  tried  to  picture  an  evening 
in  the  tropics,  nothing  can  be  compared  to  the  imposing 
majesty  of  Nature  during  a  thunderstorm,  of  which  I  have 
seen  a  number;  and  I  shall  never  forget  the  wonderful 
sight  of  the  first  one,  which  left  such  a  deeply-rooted  im- 
pression upon  me  that  nothing  will  ever  erase  it  from  my 
memory  as  long  as  I  breathe. 

To  the  great  joy  of  everybody  the  prevailing  calm  was 
interrupted  during  the  forenoon  of  July  the  fifteenth  by 
a  light  Eastern  breeze,  while  the  air  was  not  oppressive. 
We  had  all  sails  laid-to  and  our  course  was  S.  V2  W.  The 
wind  grew  less  again  toward  eleven  o  'clock  and  complete 
calm  had  returned  by  two  in  the  afternoon.  The  air  was 
burning  hot,  as  the  glowing  sun-rays  were  right  above 
our  heads  and  not  a  cloud  on  the  sky.  The  horizon  was 
hemmed  in  by  a  light  violet-colored  fog.  We  made  the 
best  of  the  situation  and  passed  the  time  by  examining 
the  surrounding  ships,  no  less  than  thirteen  in  number, 
the  movemeiits  of  which  we  observed  through  telescopes. 
The  vessels  which  were  close  enough  to  each  other  had 
hoisted  their  flags  and  the  captain  of  a  Dutch  bark  was 
seen  to  take  a  boat  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  a  large  full- 
masted  vessel  which  was  only  a  very  short  distance  away 
and  belonged  to  the  same  nation.  The  dark-blue  Atlantic 
was  as  smooth  as  a  mirror  and  numberless  flying  fish  were 
jumping  here  and  there  out  of  its  glassy  surface,  and  you 
will  form  an  idea  of  the  calm  when  I  say  that  it  was  im- 
possible for  us  to  decide  the  nationality  of  one  ship — a 
black,  heavy-laden  bark,  which  was  only  a  mile  from  us — 
because  there  was  not  enough  breeze  to  unfold  its  flag. 
Until  about  five  0  'clock  everything  remained  unchanged 


i 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  103 

but  we  soon  after  noticed  small  white  feathery  clouds 
arising  on  the  far  end  of  the  horizon;  by  six  o'clock  they 
had  grown  into  large,  threatening  ones,  which  covered  the 
heavens.  It  is  astonishing  how  quickly  they  will  gather 
and  disappear. 

The  sun  had  just  set,  giving  the  atmosphere  a  rather 
disagreeable  yellowish-red  coloring,  as  if  it  were  the  re- 
flection of  an  immense  tire.  Not  a  breath  of  air  was  notice- 
able ;  a  dull  oppressive  sultriness  was  spread  over  the  dark 
silent  ocean,  while  the  night  gTew  darker  every  minute. 
Soon  we  saw  flashes  of  lightning,  followed  by  the  heavy 
rumbling  of  distant  thunder,  and  these  approached  nearer 
and  nearer,  and  the  thunder  grew  louder  and  louder.  Half 
an  hour  after  sun-set  every  color-play  of  the  clouds  had 
completely  disappeared,  though  it  was  only  half -past  six, 
and  the  darkness  grew  so  dense  that  one  could  not  see 
three  feet  ahead.  Then  began  the  rain — and  what  a  rain! 
The  most  severe  thunderstorm  at  home  will  hardly  give 
you  a  coiTect  idea  of  that  fearful  storm;  in  a  few  seconds 
everybody  was  wet  to  the  skin  and  the  splashing  rain 
could  at  times  be  heard  above  the  deafening  roar  of  the 
thunder.  The  gale,  which  accompanied  the  rain,  filled 
our  stomi  and  topsails  and  sent  us  rapidly  over  the  wild 
water-mountains,  which  were  covered  with  white,  whiz- 
zing foam.  Such  \vas  the  change  which  had  been  wrought 
in  a  few  minutes  and  the  color  of  the  sea  had  become  as 
black  as  the  sky. 

The  thundering  roar  of  the  waves,  that  threatened  ev- 
ery moment  to  swamp  our  trembling  vessel,  while  it  was 
sailing  down  a  mighty  wave  with  lightning  speed  to  slow- 
ly and  laboriously  ascend  the  next  one,  the  torrents  of 
splashing  rain,  the  whistling  and  blustering  of  the  storm 
in  the  squeaking  and  rattling  rigging  of  the  ship,  together 
with  the  continual  rolling  of  the  thunder,  formed  a  con- 
cert so  terrible  and  imposing  that  I  feel  absolutely  unable 
to  give  you  an  adequate  description  of  the  powerful,  last- 
ing impression  which  it  has  made  upon  me. 

The  eye,  too,  was  treated  to  sights  of  impressive  mag- 
nificence.   The  lightning,  with  the  beautiful  diversity  of 


104  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

its  gay  colors  and  the  sparkling  of  the  ocean,  were  never 
more  exquisitely  gorgeous  during  my  whole  voyage  than 
I  saw  it  on  this  memorable  night.  We  had  not  had  a 
chance  of  watching  this  phenomenon  since  we  left  the 
Bay  of  Biscaya,  where  I  had  seen  it  the  first  time,  but  not 
in  the  same  splendor  to  which  we  were  treated  this  night. 
Every  one  of  the  millions  of  rain-drops  which  fell  into 
the  endless  ocean,  glowed  dark-red  like  a  fiery  coal ;  ev- 
ery flake  of  foam  in  the  white  crown  of  the  waves  ap- 
peared in  purest  silver-light,  reflecting  beautifully  in  the 
black  sides  of  our  ship.  The  storm  raged,  the  rain  con- 
tinued with  undiminished  force  until  midnight,  when  the 
wind  changed  to  South  West  so  that  we  could  steer  S.  S. 
E.  to  South.  By  daybreak  all  sails  were  set  again  and 
our  progress  was  rapid  though  the  sea  was  still  somewhat 
tempestuous.  The  rain  continued  all  day  uninterrupt- 
edly and  we  were  unable  to  discover  any  of  the  many  ves- 
sels which  had  surrounded  us  the  night  before.  During 
the  days  following  the  calm,  we  had  mostly  stormy  South 
wind,  which  drove  us  close  to  the  coast  of  Sierra  Leone, 
thereby  compelling  us  to  approach  the  African  coast  con- 
trary to  our  intention,  Capt.  Meyer  told  us  that  hardly 
one  out  of  a  hundred  vessels,  bound  for  a  destination  simi- 
lar to  our  own,  would  have  to  go  so  far  East.  However, 
these  South  winds  must  have  been  raging  for  several  days, 
as  we  met  a  number  of  vessels  every  day  which  were 
cruising  southward  like  ourselves. 

Tliursday,  the  17th,  we  passed  a  pretty,  black  brig,  fly- 
ing the  British  flag.  Ever>"body  took  her  to  be  our  old 
acquaintance  from  Madeira,  the  ''Euphemia,"  although 
we  could  not  make  sure  of  it,  as  she  followed  a  different 
course  and  did  not  come  near  enough  for  us  to  make  her 
out.  Toward  evening  we  caught  sight  of  a  bark  which, 
being  hardly  a  quarter  of  a  mile  away,  had  put  up  the 
lanterns  without  taking  further  notice  of  us.  Tlie  Friday 
following  we  sighted  a  beautiful  three-masted  English 
vessel,  which  we,  at  first  glance,  took  to  be  a  frigate,  be- 
cause of  its  unusual  size,  appearance  and  the  superiority 
Qf  its  sails.    Great  was  therefore  my  astonishment  when, 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  105 

toward  evening,  at  closer  range  we  recognized  a  whaler 
with  no  less  than  fourteen  row-boats  on  board.  I  never 
saw  a  more  handsome  vessel  in  my  life. 

Saturday,  the  19th,  there  was  a  light  Western  breeze. 
That  afternoon  at  about  four  o'clock  we  came  within 
speaking  distance  of  a  brig  from  Apenrade,  sailing  from 
Hamburg  to  Valparaiso  like  ourselves.  We  enjoyed  the 
company  of  this  Danish  vessel  for  several  hours.  Toward 
evening  still  another  Schleswig-Holsteiner  came  within 
sight;  it  was  the  Flensburg  three-masted  ''Helen  Lou- 
ise." We  were  unable  to  communicate  with  the  latter 
vessel  on  account  of  the  approaching  darkness.  The 
"Apenrader"  had  informed  us  that  it  had  already  spent 
fifty-seven  days  at  sea,  i.  e.,  since  leaving  Cuxhaven. 

On  Sunday,  the  20th,  we  had  quite  a  breeze  and  appar- 
ently rain  in  the  air;  the  "Helen  Louise"  was  on  the 
Western,  and  the  Apenrade  brig  became  barely  visible  on 
the  Northwestern  horizon,  though  it  was  yet  early  in  the 
morning.  We  sighted  the  latter  once  more  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  when  she  crossed  our  stem  with  stonny  South- 
wind  and  thick  cold  air.  On  Tuesday,  July  the  22d,  about 
half-past  nine  in  the  forenoon,  we  caught  sight  of  two 
barks,  which  followed  the  same  Southern  direction;  these 
proved  to  be  the  last  vessels  which  came  within  our  hori- 
zon for  a  long,  long  time. 

From  now  on  our  voyage  became  exceedingly  monot- 
onous, as  we  did  not  see  another  vessel  for  fully  fifty  days; 
when  we  first  caught  sight  of  one  again,  it  was  between 
Fireland  (terra  del  fuego)  and  New  South  Shetland. 
Until  we  reached  the  Southern  latitudes,  where  flocks  of 
wild  sea-birds  would  pass  over  our  heads,  our  eyes  were 
not  treated  to  the  sight  of  any  other  living  things  except 
fishes.  Our  voyage  has  been  marked  from  the  very  be- 
ginning by  contrary  and  unfavorable  winds.  The  North- 
easteiTi  Monsoon  had  left  us  much  sooner  than  we  antici- 
pated and  we  had  veiy  little  of  the  Southeastern  Mon- 
soon if  the  somewhat  lively  South  Southeast  wind,  that 
came  to  us  from  the  twenty-fourth  to  the  thirty-first  of 
July,  is  to  be  considered  as  such. 


106  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

"VVe  passed  the  "line"  on  Friday,  the  twenty-fifth  of 
July,  at  half-past  ten  in  the  evening  (22°  54'  W.  L.  Green- 
wich). The  day  had  been  agreeably  cool;  after  sun-set, 
about  six  o'clock,  the  air  became  quite  rough  and  a  rain 
set  in.  Notwithstanding  the  unfavorable  weather,  the 
sailors  were  determined  to  have  the  customary  Neptune- 
farce.  About  nine  o'clock  there  appeared  one  of  them,  a 
funny  old  fellow  by  the  name  of  Rainer  Splitgen,  who 
was  lame  of  one  leg.  He  wore  a  mask  which  converted 
his  face  into  a  veritable  caricature;  a  coarse  woollen 
blanket  enveloped  his  body,  while  beard  and  hair  of  un- 
conscionable length  had  been  manufactured  for  the  pur- 
pose out  of  oakum.  A  gaily-colored  crown  of  sail-cloth 
rather  disfigured  than  ornamented  the  head  of  the  actor, 
who  went  along  the  stem  upon  the  water-stay.  He  then 
addressed  the  ship  in  the  proper  manner  through  a  speak- 
ing-tube with  the  customary  ''Bark  ahoy!"  The  Cap- 
tain himself  answered  in  the  usual  manner,  after  which 
the  supposed  Xeptune  inquired  as  to  the  name  of  the  ves- 
sel, the  port  of  embarkment  and  of  destination,  all  of 
which  were  duly  answered  by  the  Captain.  He  then  de- 
clared that  he  would  come  on  board  to  investigate, 
whether  everything  was  in  proper  order,  which  he  did. 
He  appeared,  however,  to  be  of  a  very  ungracious  dispo- 
sition, finding  fault  with  everything  and  everybody,  scold- 
ing here  and  there,  whereby  the  man  at  the  wheel  re- 
ceived particularly  a  full  share  of  Neptune's  ill-will.  He, 
of  course,  gave  orders,  in  a  voice  which  corresponded  very 
well  to  his  exterior  appearance.  In  order  to  pacify  him 
the  Captain  invited  him  at  last  to  take  a  drink  of  whisky 
with  him  in  the  cabin,  an  invitation  which  he  could  not 
decline  in  such  cold  and  wet  weather.  Soon  after  he  re- 
turned with  a  full  bottle  of  the  same  beverage,  which  had 
been  given  to  him  for  his  ** family."  With  triumphant 
air  he  returaed  whence  he  had  come  and  disappeared  over 
the  bow  after  assuring  us  that  he  would  honor  us  once 
more  with  his  visit  if  we  would  enter  his  realms  by  the 
following  night. 

The   subsequent   Saturday   favored   the   farce  of  the 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  107 

mariners  more  than  the  day  before,  as  the  weather  was 
more  suitable  for  their  purpose  of  merry-making.  We 
were  making  good  time  and  enjoyed  a  cool  breeze;  flying 
fish,  bonitos  and  tumblers  were  visible  everywhere,  en- 
joying the  pleasant  bright  day  like  ourselves. 

The  continued  tolling  of  the  ship's  bell  announced  the 
re-appearance  of  Neptune  about  one  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon. This  time,  however,  he  arrived  with  his  whole 
court,  consisting  of  his  wife,  who  carried  an  immense  rag- 
doll  in  her  arms,  two  body-guards  wearing  red  coats  and 
otherwise  provided  with  long  wooden  swords;  three  or 
four  personalities  in  strange  fantastic  make-up  completed 
the  procession.  All  of  them  wore  ridiculous  masks.  Im- 
mediately after  arrival  Neptune  and  his  pilot  commenced 
the  measurements  of  the  vessel,  having  been  provided 
with  an  immense  octant,  built  for  the  purpose  by  the 
skilful  carpenter,  and  they  then  made  quite  a  correct 
sketch  upon  a  map,  which  our  ingenious  sail-maker  had 
provided  for  them.  This  map  was  made  of  sail-cloth  and 
was,  as  regards  neatness  and  dimensions,  by  no  means 
inferior  to  the  carpenter's  creation.  The  equator  had 
been  marked  by  a  heavy  stroke  of  the  tar-brush.  After 
this  part  of  the  program  had  been  accomplished,  Nep- 
tune's secretary  delivered  a  solemn  address  to  the  Cap- 
tain, at  the  end  of  which  he  requested  those  of  the  crew 
to  approach,  who  now  passed  the  equator  for  the  first 
time.  Thus  called,  two  sailor  boys  appeared  who  were 
taken  to  the  front  and,  after  being  thoroughly  lathered, 
they  received  a  good  shaving  with  a  wooden  razor,  about 
two  feet  in  length.  After  the  scraping,  which  had  been 
done  with  great  ceremony,  both  boys  were  given  a  shower- 
bath  by  pouring  a  bucket  of  water  over  the  head  of  each. 
The  onlooking  passengers  could  only  escape  the  fate  of 
the  boys  by  contributing  to  the  drink-funds.  The  remain- 
der of  the  day  was  a  holiday  by  permission  and  all  work, 
which  could  possibly  be  delayed,  was  suspended.  The 
crew,  as  well  as  the  passengers,  enjoyed  themselves  dur- 
ing the  afternoon  by  all  kinds  of  gymnastic  exercises, 
followed  later  on  by  the  bowl.    The  latter  example,  set  by 


108  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  sailors,  was  followed  even  by  those  who  had  not  been 
active  in  the  g;^annastics,  I  being  one  of  them.  We  seated 
ourselves  comfortably  in  the  deck-cabin  and  chatted 
around  the  wine  and  cognac  bowl.  Notwithstanding  the 
rather  mixed  elements  out  of  which  this  original  ''hedge- 
ale-house"  assembly  consisted,  it  was  happy  and  har- 
monious, though  there  would  perhaps  have  been  more 
hilarity  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  sufferings  of  one  of  our 
fellow-passengers,  a  certain  Nabholz  from  Khenish  Bava- 
ria, who  had  been  taken  sick  about  a  week  before  with 
nervous  prostration;  this  dampened  the  general  merri- 
ment and  gave  the  whole  proceeding  a  somewhat  strained 
aspect.  No  one  realized  at  that  time  that  we  would  be 
witnesses  of  a  depressing,  almost  terrible  solemnity,  with- 
in two  days  thereafter. 

Nabholz  passed  away  about  noon  on  Sunday,  the  20th 
of  July.  Most  of  the  passengers  had  the  comforting  rec- 
ollection of  having  done  their  utmost  to  relieve  him.  To 
do  more  or  even  to  give  material  aid  was  beyond  their 
power— beyond  all  human  strength.  Even  the  physician 
who  had  accompanied  us  hither,  could  assist  the  patient 
very  little,  as  the  supply  of  medicine  was  so  scant  that 
one  hardly  could  get  the  most  common  home-remedies, 
notwithstanding  the  boasting  announcements  of  the  ship- 
broker.  Thus  all  depended  upon  the  good  constitution 
of  the  patient,  which  in  this  case  failed  even  to  respond 
to  the  earnest  endeavors  of  the  physician.  Nabholz  be- 
longed to  those  unfortunates  who  are  ignorant  of  the  fact 
that  the  hot  zone  is  an  open  grave  for  Europeans  who 
have  previously  suffered  from  a  certain  class  of  diseases. 
These  ills  will  re-appear,  though  very  often  under  differ- 
ent form,  and  death  is  the  unavoidable  consequence  in 
ninety-nine  out  of  every  hundred  cases. 

Though  we  all  felt  quite  depressed  at  the  death  of 
Nabholz,  we  were  comforted  by  the  fact  that  his  loss  of 
consciousness  at  the  very  beginning  of  his  sickness  re- 
lieved him  of  that  dreadful  feeling  of  loneliness  and  help- 
lessness which  he  would  othei-wise  have  felt.  His  burial 
took  place  on  the  same  day,  about  six  o'clock  in  the 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  109 

evening.  It  was  a  simple,  plain,  but  very  solemn  affair, 
which  affected  us  deei^ly.  The  remains  were  enveloped 
in  a  woollen  blanket,  laid  upon  his  mattress  and  then,  true 
to  old  custom,  sewed  up  in  sail-cloth,  after  padding  the 
sides  with  pillows  and  covering  the  top  with  the  clothing 
of  the  dead  man.  When  this  was  accomplished  the  whole 
was  tied  upon  a  thick  board,  to  the  foot-end  of  which 
there  were  attached  four  pieces  of  anchor-chain,  for  the 
purjDOse  of  giving  it  the  required  weight.  When  all  prep- 
arations had  been  made,  the  main-top-sails  were  lowered 
in  order  to  prevent  speed,  after  which  the  flags  were 
hoisted  half  mast,  as  a  sign  of  mourning.  Everybody  un- 
covered his  head  to  say  a  silent  prayer— so  it  seemed, 
at  least— while  the  body  was  lifted  upon  the  quarter- 
deck-rail. It  was  a  sad  solemn  moment,  when  the  re- 
mains were  slowly  lowered  into  the  bottomless  ocean, 
whose  blue  billows  continued  to  ripple  quite  a  while  after. 
The  whole  ceremony  had  left  a  gloomy,  depressing  atmos- 
phere, when  Heaven  itself  opened  its  grey,  threatening 
clouds  tO'  send  a  fine,  drizzling  rain  upon  the  watery 
grave.  The  waves  rose  high,  and  as  far  as  the  keenest  eye 
could  note,  nothing  was  discovered  which  bore  life  but 
our  lone  vessel,  tossed  about  by  the  roaring  waves,  while 
the  mourning  flags  told  the  sad,  sorrowful  tale  of  the 
day.  We  rested  another  quarter  of  an  hour  as  a  mark  of 
respect;  we  then  went  forward  under  full  sail,  parting  the 
foam-crowned  waves  at  great  speed  and  leaving  behind 
us  the  locality  which  serves  poor  Nabholz  as  a  resting- 
place.  No  sign  by  which  it  may  be  recognized,  as  no  hu- 
man foot  will  ever  approach  his  watery  grave.  Nabholz 
had  not  yet  completed  his  twentieth  year  when  he  passed 
away. 

On  July  the  31st  we  had  reached  31°  33'  West  Longitude 
and  10°  42'  South  Latitude.  The  Brazilian  coast  between 
Pemambuco  and  Sergipe  del  Eey  was  the  nearest  land, 
and  that  was  about  eighty  (German)  miles  away.  A 
wondrously  beautiful  sunrise — followed  by  splendid,  clear 
weather— made  this  one  of  the  brightest  days  we  had  dur- 
ing the  whole  of  our  voyage.    The  tropical  sun  shone  in 


110  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  pure,  blue  heaven  above  where  only  here  and  there 
a  shining  snow-white  summer-cloud  would  make  a  marked 
contrast ;  and  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  rays  had 
full  sway,  the  air  was  cool  and  pleasant,  somewhat  like 
our  warm  spring-days  at  home.  With  all  that,  we  made 
unusually  quick  time  through  the  deep,  carmine-blue  sea, 
which  I  never  saw  as  calm  as  on  this  day,  not  even  in 
close  proximity  of  land.  Schools  of  silvery  flying  fish 
were  playing  around  us  and  four  nautilus  came  right 
alongside  our  ship;  the  pretty  rose-colored  wings  of  the 
largest  one  reaching  about  three  inches  above  the  water. 
The  sun-set  following  resembled  the  magnificent  sunrise 
and  I  saw,  what  thousands  of  people  who  cross  the  At- 
lantic will  never  have  a  chance  of  viewing,  and  what  only 
occurred  once  during  our  whole  trip,  the  rare  spectacle 
of  the  apparent  dropping  of  the  sun  into  water,  and  not, 
as  is  generally  the  case,  setting  behind,  or  surrounded 
by,  fog  or  clouds.  The  air  remained  pure  and  mild  after 
the  sun-set.  The  soft,  beautiful  shades  of  colors  faded 
on  the  darkening  sky,  and  when  night  had  closed  down, 
I  noticed  for  the  first  time  the  brilliant  star-pictures  of 
the  Southern  Hemisphere,  developing  their  splendor  on 
the  blue  velvety  background  of  the  firmament.  The  stars 
seemed  to  compete  hannoniously  with  one  another,  in 
which  rivalry  they  succeeded  so  well  that  even  the  small- 
est of  them  displayed  a  brightness  which  we  do  not  wit- 
ness on  our  coldest  winter  nights  at  home.  The  Milky 
AVay  particularly  attracted  the  attention  of  the  obser\''er's 
gaze  and  the  Dipper,  the  Twins  and  the  beautiful  picture 
of  the  Southern  Cross  filled  one  with  wonder.  Except- 
ing Venus — which,  though  barely  within  our  horizon,  dis- 
plays a  brilliancy  which  compares  almost  with  that  of 
the  moon  itself— and  Jupiter,  the  brightest  star  on  the 
Southern  Hemisphere;  none  are  more  lustrous  than  those 
of  the  Cross.  I  watched  the  celestial  spectacle  from  my 
usual  place  until  very  late  in  the  night,  unable  to  take 
my  eyes  from  the  millions  of  sparkling  jewels  of  the  firma- 
ment; it  was  particularly  the  sight  of  the  little  Ci'oss 
which  kept  my  attention  and  which  even  the  most  care- 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  111 

less  observer  could  not  have  overlooked.  Tliougli  small 
enough  to  be  hidden  behind  the  four  smallest  stars  of  the 
' '  Great  Bear, ' '  it  shone  forth  with  matchless  evenness  and 
splendor.  The  moon,  too,  though  yet  only  a  crescent  at 
the  further  edge  of  the  northern  horizon,  threw  out  such 
intense  light  that  the  different  objects  on  board  would 
throw  their  shadow.  To  give  you  a,  correct  estimate  of 
the  transparent  atmosphere  in  this  latitude,  I  will  men- 
tion the  fact  that  one  could  actually  see  the  dark  part  of 
the  disk  of  the  moon  with  the  naked  eye;  even  the  differ- 
ent spots  were  visible  to  a  keen  observer.  My  description 
of  the  thirty-first  has  been  very  long-drawn;  ought  I  to 
apologize  for  it,  my  beloved  ones? 

This  date  brought  forth  to  my  memory  many  a  cher- 
ished recollection  of  the  far  away  home;  is  it  a  wonder 
that  I  made  this  day  as  well  as  a  few  others,  a  sort  of 
holiday  of  obligation,  holding  what  may  be  justly  termed 
a  Divine  Ser\dce,  in  honor  of  the  past?  Man  needs  such 
moments  to  gather  strength  from  the  recollections  of  the 
past,  to  meet  the  requirements  of  a  perhaps  stormy  fu- 
ture. If  one  allows  one's  mind  to  dwell  on  similar  sub- 
jects of  meditation  but  twice  in  three  months,  is  there 
reason  for  being  placed  in  the  category  of  dreamers  and 
illusionists?  In  imagination  I  dwelt  with  you  on  these 
two  days,  from  early  morning  till  late  at  night,  though 
I  made  also  a  few  visits  to  others.  It  is  a  sad  privilege, 
which  the  great  distance  from  home,  however,  permits. 
I  can  gather  around  me  all  those  to  whom  I  am  drawn  in 
love,  and  enjoy  their  company  at  the  same  time.  But 
enough  of  this ! 

All  that  is  beautiful  comes  to  an  end. 

The  31st  of  July  experienced  the  same  fate  and  great 
was  our  surprise  when  we  awoke  the  next  morning  to 
find  a  complete  calm  which  had  set  in  after  a  heavy  rain. 
We  had  a  little  breeze  from  South  Southeast  once  but  it 
soon  changed  to  South  and  then  slightly  West  so  that, 
toward  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening,  we  could  hardly  make 
any  headway.  The  same  unfavorable  weather,  which 
greeted  us  on  the  first  day  of  August,  continued  almost 


112  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

tlirougliout  tliit-",  as  well  as  part  of  the  next  mouth.  It 
was  a  hard  trial  for  our  patience,  our  good  humor  and,  I 
may  add,  our  state  of  health.  Fortunately,  I  did  not  suf- 
fer, but  managed  to  keep  myself  well,  as  I  assured  you  at 
the  very  beginning  of  my  letter;  of  course  I  suffered  from 
tooth-ache  once  in  a  while,  but  that  hardly  counts  for 
much,  or  is  worth  mentioning. 

After  we  had  reached  the  South- Western  ocean  current, 
which  runs  along  the  Brazilian  coast  from  Cape  Frio  to 
Cape  St.  Roque,  which  took  place  on  the  third  of  August, 
the  unfavorable  weather  continued  and  could  have  been 
compared  to  our  disagreeable,  damp,  fall  weather  at 
home.  Even  the  inhabitants  of  the  sea  left  us,  though  the 
water  remained  clear  and  transparent;  further  South  we 
would  meet  a  North-Caper  or  whaler  once  in  a  long  while. 
On  the  other  hand,  we  now  found  ourselves  daily  in  the 
company  of  sea-birds,  sometimes  thousands  of  them.  We 
observed  the  first  arrivals  on  the  fourth  of  August,  when 
about  half  a  dozen  of  Cape-Doves  put  in  an  appearance. 
This  is  a  species,  which  rem.ained  with  us,  following  the 
ship  day  after  day,  whether  we  were  close  to  the  shore 
or  not,  until  we  reached  Valparaiso.  These  pretty  white 
birds  which  accompanied  us  in  large  flocks  resembled 
our  geese  in  size  and  shape  but  they  had  very  strong, 
crooked  beaks  and  sharp  black  claws;  their  long  wings 
and  head  as  well  as  tail  were  speckled  with  black.  The 
wind  was  unusually  changeable  and  blew  at  times  from 
four  directions  in  one  day,  now  light,  then  again  so  strong 
that  even  the  top-sails  seemed  to  be  more  than  sufficient. 
Tlie  breeze  was  mostly  Southern  or  Western  and  if  it 
happened  once  in  a  while  that  a  more  favorable  change 
took  place,  we  were  not  benefited  enough  by  it  to  help 
us  very  materially  in  our  onward  progress.  On  the  con- 
trary", it  often  happened  that  such  a  change  brought  with 
it  a  roughness  which  was  not  agreeable. 

ISTotwithstanding  the  fact  that  these  Northern  air-cur- 
rents caused  many  disagreeable  movements  on  board, 
they  were  welcomed  as  dispensers  of  moments  of  recrea- 
tion. 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  113 

On  Saturday,  the  9tli  of  August,  we  had  quite  a  heavy 
thunderstonn  accompanied  by  lightning  as  early  as  half- 
past  seven  in  the  morning;  on  the  10th,  11th  and  12th 
the  winds  blew  at  intervals  from  all  directions,  with  great 
force,  particularly  on  the  first-named  day.  That  kind  of 
weather  causes  the  sailors  a  great  deal  of  work,  as  they 
have  to  adjust  the  sails  and  rigging  constantly,  now 
changing  them  from  one  side  to  the  other,  then  repairing 
this  or  that  one,  now  setting  and  then  again  laying  them 
to.  During  the  whole  voyage  we  had  not  had  as  much 
rolling  and  cruising  as  in  these  few  days,  although  the 
sea  did  not  go  so  very  high. 

The  fixst  albatross  reached  our  ship  on  Monday,  the 
eleventh  of  August,  shortly  after  sun-set.  At  first  we  saw 
but  little  of  these  web-footed  birds,  but  the  further  we 
went  South,  the  more  numerous  they  became.  Flying,  the 
albatross  resembles  the  stork,  on  account  of  its  snowy 
plumage  and  black  tipped  wings,  though  there  is  in  re- 
ality veiy  little  resemblance  if  one  looks  at  it  close  by. 
It  is  generally  as  large  as  a  swan  but  has.  a  short,  thick 
neck ;  its  beak  is  extraordinarily  strong,  often  more  than 
three  inches  long  and  crooked  like  that  of  a  hawk. 
Mamuris  made  their  appearance  next;  they  closely  re- 
semble the  albatross  with  the  exception  that  their 
plumage  is  quite  dark-grey.  AYe  caught  one  which  meas- 
ured seven  feet  from  tip  to  tip.  The  further  we  went 
South  the  more  numerous  became  the  birds;  and  many 
beautiful  species  surrounded  our  vessel.  They  are  all  ex- 
ceedingl}^  handsome,  with  an  unusually  fine  and  soft, 
thick  plumage.  Being  exceedingly  greedy,  one  can  catch 
them  without  much  trouble  with  a  strong  fish-hook  baited 
with  bacon.  We  had  generally  several  lines  out,  if  the 
weather  was  favorable;  and  it  was  by  no  means  an  un- 
common occurrence  to  see  a  dozen  or  more  of  these  pretty 
birds  run  about  our  deck;  the  peculiar  fact  is,  that  these 
birds  can  only  raise  themselves  out  of  the  water  or  man- 
age to  fly  from  high  points.  Ylienever  we  got  tired  play- 
ing with  them  we  would  wind  gay  ribbons  around  their 
necks  and  return  them  to  freedom. 


114  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOEDEN  GATE 

Valparaiso-Harbor, 
October  the  23d,  24tli  and  25tb,  1851. 

Having  arrived  here  yesterday  (the  22d),  I  hasten  to 
continue  tliis  letter ;  the  pen  bums  in  my  hand,  for  I  wish 
that  the  message  of  good  cheer,  which  I  now  write  down, 
could  at  this  moment  be  in  jowr  hands,  assuring  you  that 
the  hardest  part  of  our  voyage  is  now  ended. 

On  August  the  15th  we  caught  sight  of  an  iimnense 
*'Northcaper,"  which  came  close  to  our  ship  early 
in  the  morning,  while  we  had  a  momentary  calm 
and  bright,  pleasant  weather.  This  large  fish  emerge.! 
now  and  then  so  that  we  were  able  to  see  its  r^reenish- 
black  back,  which  measured  about  twenty  feet  in  length. 

The  next  day,  August  the  16th,  at  half-past  six  o'clock 
in  the  evening,  there  was  born  a  son  to  a  former  citizen  of 
Berlin,  Elwanger  by  name,  an  event  which  was  celebrated 
on  the. following  Monday  by  raising  the  flag  on  that  beau- 
tiful, bright  day. 

Following  the  light  winds  on  Monday,  August  the  18th, 
we  were  unexpectedly  compelled  to  make  the  acquain- 
tance of  a  storm,  such  as  the  Southern  Atlantic  produces. 
It  struck  us  during  the  night,  and  differed  much  from 
previous  ones  which  we  had  experienced.  In  our  opinion 
it  was  so  severe  that  we  could  not  imagine  anything 
worse.  Now,  every  one  of  us  has  become  wiser — as  the 
terrific  tornadoes  which  we  experienced  :in(j,  left  us  to 
believe  that  the  first  one.  South  of  the  Equator,  was,  after 
all,  not  of  so  awful  a  nature,  though  it  was  violent  enough 
to  un-roof  houses  and  up-root  trees  on  the  shore.  This 
stonu  came  from  Southwest  and  was  accompanied  by  a 
heavy  rain;  about  noon  following  it  had  subsided  suf- 
ficiently to  permit  the  setting  of  sails.  On  Tuesday,  Au- 
gust the  19th,  we  had  to  meet  another  loss  in  the  death  of 
a  passenger,  Odin  by  name,  a  Saxon,  who  passed  away 
during  the  forenoon,  having  suffered  long  and  intensely 
from  gout  and  scur^^y.  There  was  already  the  foot-print 
of  the  ''reaper"  upon  him  when  he  came  on  board  our 
vessel,  and  it  is  hardly  probable  that  his  life  would  have 
been  prolonged  even  if  he  had  remained  on  land.    His 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  115 

remains  were  turned  over  to  the  Atlantic  about  seven 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  the  ceremonies  being  conducted  in 
the  same  manner  as  were  those  which  marked  the  burial 
of  Nabholz. 

It  was  during  this  hour  that  the  first  stonn-birds  or 
*' Mother  Carey's  Chickens,"  as  tliey  are  generally  called, 
put  in  their  appearance  on  board.  It  is  evidently  more 
than  a  sailor's  superstition  to  connect  the  coming  of  these 
animals  with  an  approaching  storm.  Tlie  mariners  take 
it  to  be  an  infallible  omen  and  not  without  some  reason. 
I  made  it  a  special  point  to  observe  this  strange  occur- 
rence and  can  testify  to  the  fact  that  whenever  two  or 
three  of  these  rare  birds  became  visible  we  could  reckon 
upon  a  heavy  storm,  which  would  invariably  follow  with- 
in a  few  hours.  So  it  happened  that  we  had  a  heavy 
storm  from  W.  N.  W.  during  the  night,  which  was  par- 
ticularly tempestuous  at  sun-rise.  We  had  fastened  near- 
ly all  sails  and  the  ship  went  with  great  difficulty  until 
the  subsidence  of  the  gale  about  noon-time,  made  it  pos- 
sible to  have  more  sails  set. 

Wednesday  night,  after  a  short  interval,  the  weather 
looked  again  so  gloomy  and  threatening  that  the  rather 
timely  precaution  of  changing  or  reducing  sails  proved  to 
be  an  exceedingly  wise  one,  as  we  were  witnesses  of  an- 
other gale  from  S.  S.  W.,  which  made  the  wind  much 
rougher  than  the  previous  one.  It  did  not  change  until 
Thursday,  the  21st,  after  it  had  been  raging  without  the 
slightest  interruption  for  fifteen  long  hours. 

The  night  between  Thursday  and  Friday  passed  com- 
paratively quiet,  though  the  air  was  cold  and  disagree- 
able and  the  ship  worked  hard  in  the  hollow  of  the  waves. 
About  noon  we  noticed  some  short  ends  of  old  ship's-rope 
driving  close  to  our  ship,  followed  later  on  by  a  row-boat, 
which  had  evidently  belonged  to  a  larger  vessel;  it  was 
full  of  water  and  did  not  seem  to  have  been  in  the  position 
very  long,  but  had  evidently  broken  adrift.  The  air  was 
gloomy  and  an  ice-cold  rain  fell  now  and  then.  About 
two  o'clock  another  S.  S.  W.  gale  struck  us,  so  that  we 
had  to  change  sails  again.     We  now  followed  W.  to  S. 


116         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

until  evening,  when  we  again  made  a  change  to  W.  N.  W. 
This  gale  reached  its  greatest  fury  on  Saturday,  the  23d, 
and  did  not  cease  until  Sunday  noon,  by  which  time  it 
had  raged  full  forty  hours.  From  now  on  we  had  an  oc- 
casional hailstorm,  and  between  two  and  three  in  the 
afternoon  we  had  the  first,  pretty  thick  snow-fall.  The 
few  sails,  which  were  set,  had  been  well  reefed. 

This  week— during  which  we  had  experienced  unusual- 
ly stormy  weather— was  but  a  preparatoiy  foretaste  of 
the  experiences  which  were  to  be  ours  when  we  passed 
the  Cape. 

The  period  between  Sunday,  the  24th  of  August,  and 
the  3d  of  September  can  be  covered  in  a  very  few  words. 
Encouraged  by  fresh  Western  and  Southwestern  breezes, 
which  were  not  very  stormy  in  their  nature,  we  made 
pretty  good  speed  and  were  sailing  closer  and  closer  along 
the  Patagonian  coast,  followed  by  flocks  of  Cape  pigeons 
and  albatrosses.  Owing  to  the  fact  that  we  kept  close  to 
the  coast,  the  current  remained  rather  quiet  and  this  pe- 
riod of  our  voyage  would  undoubtedly  have  been  one  of 
the  most  agreeable  of  the  whole  trip  if  the  weather  had 
not  been  so  rough  and  cold,  notwithstanding  the  bright 
sunshine.  What  was  to  have  been  a  pleasant  trip  was 
thus  spoiled;  and  though  we  had  not  ice  enough  on  board 
to  go  skating,  tliere  were  daily  hail  and  snow-storms, 
which  compelled  us  to  use  shovels  more  than  once.  We 
also  had  quite  heavy  fogs  at  times. 

The  day  after  the  last  stonn  there  floated  reeds  and 
sea-weed  in  large  quantities  all  around  us.  On  Tuesday;, 
the  26th,  we  took  a  new  kind  of  visitors  on  board  in  the 
shape  of  a  hitherto  unseen  species  of  sea-birds.  As  the 
air  was  unusually  calm,  we  were  able  to  catch  quite  a 
number  of  them  in  the  previously  described  manner  and 
had  at  one  time  no  less  than  fifteen  of  them  running  round 
the  deck;  we  threw  the  whole  flock  overboard  as  soon  as 
evening  came  and  how  they  seemed  to  enjoy  the  swim- 
ming again.  Tliese  animals  were  somewhat  larger  than 
big  geese  and  distinguished  themselves  by  their  blue 
beaks  and  pale-red  swinmiing  webs;  their  plumage  wag 


^, 


o   g 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  117 

beautifully  silver-grey  on  the  back,  while  head,  neck  and 
breast  were  snow  white;  the  long  grey  wings  ended  in 
black  tips.  They  were  undoubtedly  the  most  beautiful 
swimming  fowls  we  had  thus  far  seen;  though  dreadfully 
stupid  and  greedy,  and  therefore  easy  to  catch.  We  only 
came  across  this  species  once  more  during  our  voyage 
and  that  was  on  the  other  side  of  Patagonia,  in  nearly  tho 
same  latitude. 

Saturday,  the  30th,  we  discovered  what  the  sailors  call 
''fat  geese,"  which,  though  yet  at  a  great  distance,  dis- 
closed to  us  the  proximity  of  the  Falkland  Islands;  and 
the  3d  of  September  we  were  surprised  by  seeing  a  tre- 
mendous whale.  Toward  evening  of  the  same  day  we 
caught  a  little  land-bird,  which,  tired  from  its  long  flight, 
had  fallen  on  our  fore-deck.  We  all  enjoyed  the  wonder- 
fully clear  moon-light  and  unusual  quiet,  and  remained 
on  deck  till  late  in  the  night. 

Tliursday,  the  fourth  of  September,  was  destined  to 
mark  another  epoch  in  our  voyage. 

Under  a  lively  West-wind  we  were  able  to  approach  the 
high  coast-mountains  of  the  Fireland  (terra  del  fuego) 
towards  four  o'clock  in  the  morning.  It  forms  a  large 
bay  between  the  66th  and  67th  degree  West  longitude. 
When  at  last  the  sun  arose  it  was  half-past  six.  We  were 
within  four  German  miles  of  land  and,  as  the  morning 
was  really  beautiful,  we  greatly  enjoyed  the  sight.  The 
ship  now  changed  its  course  to  the  East,  following  the 
eoast-line.  The  sight  was  one  of  the  most  beautiful  that 
had  ever  been  presented  to  my  view,  and  it  made  upon  me 
a  deeper  impression  than  it  perhaps  would  have  done,  had 
this  not  been  the  first  land  we  had  seen  in  fully  two 
months,  or  since  we  left  Madeira. 

The  coast  of  Fireland  arises  out  of  the  ocean  with  un- 
usual steepness,  resembling  a  two  to  three-hundred  foot 
wall,  at  the  base  of  which  the  mighty  breakers  were  roar- 
ing. Further  upward  its  perjoendicular  aspect  appears 
to  modify  slightly,  though  losing  little  of  its  fonner  ab- 
ruptness. Slowly  it  seems  to  join  the  wild,  rocky  coast- 
mountains,  the  hom-like  peaks  of  which  often  are  prob- 


118  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ably  more  than  fifteen-hundred  feet  in  height.  The  zig- 
zag of  the  manj^  wide  cracks,  the  caves  and  protruding 
rocks,  all  coated  with  eternal  snow,  presented  a  view  most 
picturesque,  and  never  to  be  forgotten;  and  the  magnifi- 
cence of  the  scene  which  the  early  morning  sun  illumined 
can  only  find  its  equal  in  the  Alps.  But,  notwithstanding 
the  imposing  sight,  which  I  have  described,  the  view  is  a 
strangely  desolate  one,  with  the  absolute  absence  of  vege- 
tation. Nothing  was  visible  but  wildly  torn  rocks  of  a 
reddish  brown  color,  which  were  inhabited  by  innumera- 
ble water-fowl,  whose  screeching  alone  would  be  echoed 
in  the  cold,  cavernous  mountains,  where  even  the  native 
nomad  dared  to  set  his  foot  but  rarely. 

The  surface  of  the  ocean  had  a  dark  gray-green  color 
and  was  comparatively  quiet;  a  "Western  wind  hastened 
our  speed  considerably,  which  naturally  brought  us  new 
sceneiy  from  minute  to  minute. 

We  reached  Cape  St.  Vincent  soon  after  ten  o'clock 
and  passed  it.  We  had  approached  shore  slowly  and  were 
able  to  distinguish  the  ever  breaking  billows  at  the  foot 
of  the  Cape. 

Beginning  with  this  point,  we  find  the  chain  of  coast 
mountains  recedes  somewhat  into  a  deep-cut  picturesque 
bay,  which  enables  the  eye  to  enjoy  the  panorama  of  the 
endless  snow-fields  and  ferns  of  the  interior.  Tliis  bay 
ends  in  the  east  at  the  point  where  the  noted  Cape  San 
Diego  appears  as  a  gigantic  comer  stone  of  the  Strait  of 
Le  Maire.  This  cape  protrudes  considerably  into  the  sea, 
almost  pointed  like  a  needle  and  ends  in  a  rock  of  about 
three  hundred  feet  high,  which  hangs  most  threatening- 
ly over  the  breakers,  that  roar  amidst  fallen  fragments, 
which,  reaching  almost  a  quarter  of  a  mile  into  the  sea, 
may  easily  be  taken  for  a  dam  of  gigantic  constiniction. 
We  sailed  around  this  dangerous  place  at  about  a  mile 
distant  and  entered  the  Strait  Le  Maire  at  eleven  o'clock. 
This  strait  divides  Fireland  and  Staten  Island. 

We  kept  close  to  the  coast  of  Fireland,  or  less  than  half 
a  mile  from  the  shore.  Though  the  northera  coast  had 
offered  already  a  beautiful  view,  it  could  not  be  compared 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  119 

to  tlie  wild,  torn  chaTacter  which  presented  itself  step  by 
step  in  the  strait  of  Le  Maire.  It  was  tnily  picturesque. 
The  most  imposing  spectacle  in  this  region  undoubtedly 
caused  by  the  many  little  inlets  which  form  a  crescent, 
opening  toward  the  ocean.  This  spot  is  called  "Bay  of 
Good  Success,"  and  seemed  to  be  half  a  mile  wide  and 
deep,  marked  at  its  Eastern  end  by  some  large  mountains 
of  Fireland ;  and  on  the  South  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Suc- 
cess. The  whole  looks  like  a  black,  jagged  wall  of  rocks, 
perpendicular,  and  often  more  than  a  thousand  feet  higli, 
frequently  protruding  toward  the  everlasting  breakers 
of  the  raging  sea.  This  wall  is  crowned  with  immense 
masses  of  snow  which  do  not  entirely  melt  away  during 
the  summer  months ;  and  now,  in  the  spring  season  of  the 
Southern  Hemisphere,  we  see  immense  stalactites  of 
frozen  snow  hanging  everywhere  and  reaching  at  times 
such  proportions  that  they  almost  kiss  the  breaking  bil- 
lows. No  human  foot  ever  reached  this  region  and  not 
the  least  vegetation  could  be  discovered  by  the  searching- 
eye.  Nothing  but  a  dark  volcanic  rock,  covered  by  the 
icy  blanket  of  perpetual  snow.      *''^'' 

The  Cape  of  Good  Success  itself  formed  the  culminating 
point,  which  is  the  Eastern  outlet  of  the  snow-capped 
mountain-chain  with  its  wild  coast-scenery,  which  make 
the  interior  of  Fireland  so  uuexplorable.  It  appears  to 
be  about  fifteen  hundred  feet  high,  a  dark,  wild  and  grue- 
some sight  to  behold,  on  the  few  proti-uding  points  of 
which  even  the  snow  seems  to  have  failed  to  obtain  a  last- 
ing hold;  the  sea  is  at  this  point  unfathomable.  It  was 
on  this  cape  that  a  Danish  bark  with  many  emigrants 
wrecked,  in  full  view  of  two  other  vessels;  this  occurred 
during  last  January.  Capt.  Meyer  told  me  that  the  bark 
was  thrown  but  once  against  the  mighty  rocks,  which 
proved  enough  to  convert  its  beams  and  planks  into  splin- 
ters and  the  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  people,  who  were 
on  board,  lost  their  lives  right  there.  The  captain  showed 
me  the  spot  as  we  sailed  past  at  a  distance  of  about  half 
a  mile. 

TTe  left  the  Strait  Le  ]\raire  about  two  o'clock  in  the 


120  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

afternoon  and  re-entered  the  wide  ocean,  soon  losing  sight 
of  Staten  Island,  whose  inaccessible  rocky  peaks  could 
only  be  seen  as  an  indistinct  outline  above  the  clouds, 
while  the  lower  part  of  the  Island,  though  but  four  miles 
away,  had  been  completely  obliterated  from  view  by 
heavy  fog.  The  breeze  was  quite  refreshing  but  not  very 
strong,  and  as  the  weather  seemed  to  be  pleasant  and 
quiet,  we  set  full  sails  and  went  with  South-Southwest 
wind.  Though  the  coast  disappeared  more  and  more  from 
our  horizon,  it  remained  picturesque,  as  before.  It  was 
now  that  the  numerous  small  islands  and  the  rough  cliffs, 
which  projected  out  of  the  water,  forming  all  kinds  of 
strange  figures,  would  impress  one  with  a  peculiar  long- 
ing. The  back-ground  of  this  grand  panorama  was,  of 
course,  the  mighty  chain  of  snowy  mountains. 

As  you  may  well  imagine,  I  did  not  allow  this  rare  and 
favorable  opportunity  to  pass  by  without  making  a  few 
sketches,  of  which  I  have  six,  taken  from  the  most  inter- 
esting points  of  the  coast.  Tlie  magic  beauty  of  the  scen- 
eries was  so  attractive  that  I  continued  my  sketching 
with  fingers,  stiffened  by  cold,  for  which  the  favorable 
light  and  general  quiet  seem.ed  to  recompense  me.  The 
opportunity^  is  seldom  offered  and  few  will  have  ever 
thought  of  making  this  use  of  it. 

We  continued  on  our  quiet  jouniey,  somewhat  protect- 
ed by  the  projecting  land,  and  assisted  by  more  favorable 
ocean  currents,  which  had  hitherto  been  rather  against 
us,  especially  in  the  Strait  Le  Maire,  where  the  waves 
reach  at  times  a  height  of  thirty  feet,  i.  e.,  under  ordinary 
conditions,  Avhile  it  exceeds  this  greatly  in  times  of 
storms.  During  the  afternoon  the  air  became  heavier 
and  by  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  sky  was  quite 
cloudy,  though  the  wind  remained  steady  and  the  sea 
quiet.  We  expected  to  reach  the  Cape  within  the  next 
six  or  eight  hours.  Nobody  of  our  meny  crowd,  that 
passed  the  evening  hours  laughing  and  joking,  thought 
that  it  would  take  us  yet  fully  a  fortnight  to  reach  the 
long  looked-for  Cape.  Nor  did  we  realize  that  we  would 
have  to  suffer  more  on  every  single  one  of  these  days  than 
we  had  during  our  whole  three  months'  voyage. 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  121 

By  mid-night  it  was  said  to  have  been  possible  to  rec- 
ognise the  Barnavelt  Island,  which  is  some  six  miles 
from  Cape  Horn,  when  suddenly  a  heavy  storm  broke  out 
of  the  West.  About  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  Fri- 
day, the  fifth  of  September,  the  gale  blew  so  dreadfully 
that  our  jib  was  lifted  out  of  its  encasings  and  the  top- 
mast-sail tore  loose  soon  after,  on  which  occasion  the 
ship's  cari^enter,  sail-maker  and  the  Chilian  apprentice, 
Lastico,  came  within  an  ace  of  being  thrown  overboard. 
Not  until  about  nine  o'clock  were  we  able  to  loosen  the 
sail  of  the  foremast  from  its  yard  and  to  set  it  securely. 
During  all  the  time  required  for  the  most  necessary  re- 
pairing we  were  floating  at  the  mercy  of  the  hourly-rising 
sea. 

This  kind  of  weather  continued  all  day  long,  so  that  it 
was  barely  possible  to  steer  South-Southwest.  As  night 
approached  the  storm  increased  and  became  so  violent 
about  midnight  that  it  fell  little  short  of  a  humcane,  the 
waters  constantly  washing  over  our  deck.  The  force  of 
the  billows  grew  so  powerful  toward  day-break  that  it 
knocked  the  heavy  iron  ridges  asunder,  under  which  the 
quarter-boat  hung,  which,  in  consequence,  rolled  upon 
the  deck  between  the  deck-cabin  and  the  mizzen-mast  and 
it  took  several  hours  before  it  was  possible  to  secure  it 
properly  again.  At  another  time  the  storm  struck  us  and 
tore  off  the  mouldings  of  the. star-board,  carrjdng  them 
away;  then  again,  it  went  tearing  between  the  fore  and 
main  masts.  The  keen,  cutting  cold  had  frozen  the  rig- 
ging and  glazed  the  deck  and  the  water-barrels  were 
heavily  iced.  Was  it  a  wonder  that  we  made  absolutely 
no  headway  under  the  circumstances?  For  fully  twenty- 
four  hours  we  were  compelled  to  remain  with  main-top- 
sail, mizzen-sail  and  storm-jib  tightly  hove  to,  drifting 
all  the  while.    Such  was  our  reception  at  the  Cape. 

Sunday,  the  seventh,  about  noon,  we  were  glad  that, 
after  the  storm  had  raged  for  fully  fifty-five  hours,  its 
force  was  abated  sufficiently  to  allow  us  to  set  the  lower 
sails  again,  though  the  wind  remained  unsteady  between 
Southwest  and  West.    Instead  of  the  sails,  we  had  already 


123  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

lost,  our  men  substituted  resen^e-sails  and,  as  the  weather 
brightened  during  the  afternoon,  we  heaved  out  the  top- 
sail, set  it  and  took  the  course  North  West  to  AVest.  The 
air  was  cold  and  large  pieces  of  ice  floated  on  our  water- 
barrels.  The  weather  continued  fair  on  Monday,  the 
eighth,  and  as  it  was  tolerably  bright,  we  were  satisfied 
though  the  wind  had  neither  changed  in  violence  nor  di- 
rection, remaining  S.  W.  and  W.,  as  during  the  day  be- 
fore. AVe  kejit  S.  to  S.  AV.  and  S.  W.,  making  the  best  of 
our  chances. 

Suddenly  there  arose  another  powerful  gale  from  the 
South,  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  carrj'ing  with 
it  a  cutting  cold,  and  much  snow  and  hail;  notwithstand- 
ing which  we  managed  to  keep  our  course  AVest  to  South 
until  about  midnight.  From  this  hour  on  the  stoi-m 
changed  gradually  to  North-Northwest  and  assumed  such 
proportions  that  we  were  again  compelled  to  take  in  all 
sail  except  the  smallest ;  again  we  drifted  hopelessly  while 
our  vessel  was  constantly  under  water.  To  complete  our 
misery,  the  clouds  kept  sending  us  snow  and  hail— dark, 
sharp,  cutting  hail.  This  continued  till  Wednesday,  the 
tenth  of  September.  AYhile  it  is  true  that  the  wind  con- 
tinued, even  on  this  day,  W.  to  N.  W.,  accompanied  by 
constant  snow,  it  became  possible  about  noon  to  again 
bring  our  vessel  under  more  sail  and  its  course  was 
changed  to  Southwest.  We  then  had  a  chance  about 
three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  to  see  another  vessel 
through  the  fog.  It  was  a  freight-bark,  which  cruised 
East-ward,  probably  bound  for  Europe ;  none  but  the  fore- 
mast-sail was  set  out. 

Soon  after  this  we  experienced  another  "rough  sea," 
which  destroyed  the  pigeon-house  that  we  had  standing 
on  deck  and  washed  away  a  few  things,  without  causing 
much  damage.  Tlie  sky  was  thickly  clouded  when  night 
came  and  the  storm  increased  but  it  did  not  reach  its 
gi^eatest  violence  until  Thursday,  the  eleventh,  in  broad 
daylight;  the  severe  cold  again  caused  plenty  of  ice  to 
form  on  board.  Early  in  the  morning  there  was  another 
Joss  to  be  registered,  another  sail  gone  which  compelled 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  133 

us  to  drift  all  day  with  but  one  small  bark  sail  and  the 
well  reefed  inizzen  in  a  sea  truly  mountainous  and  con- 
stantly breaking  over  our  deck.  Another  heavy  wave 
broke  our  mizzen  mast  about  eleven  o'clock  in  the  fore- 
noon and  the  water  came  rushing  down  the  steerage  in 
such  quantities  that  our  lower  bunks  on  our  starboard 
side  were  completely  under  water.  The  violence  of  the 
waves  was  terrible  and  the  ship  suffered  to  such  an  ex- 
tent, causing  so  much  water  to  come  in  my  own  bunk,  that 
mattress  and  blanket  were  thoroughly  saturated,  our 
deck  being  sadly  in  need  of  repairs. 

One  can  only  obtain  a  faint  idea  of  the  terrific  force 
of  this  hurricane,  for  such  I  can  call  it,  without  scruple, 
when  I  relate  the  fact  of  our  having  on  board  an  iron  bar, 
four  inches  thick  and  twelve  feet  in  length,  which,  as  it 
was  lying  flat  on  deck,  was  suddenly  carried  away  as  if  it 
had  been  nothing  but  a  feather. 

Our  barometer  stood  all  day  5'^'  below  storm,  or  at  25" 
7'".  At  last,  toward  sunset,  the  storm  abated  so  that  we 
were  able  to  set  topsail  again.  The  next  day — Friday — 
we  found  ourselves  in  a  snow-bed,  which  had  fallen  during 
the  night,  and  even  at  noon  there  was  plenty  of  it;  the 
sun,  though  bright,  had  been  powerless  to  melt  it  as  the 
cold  remained  piercing  all  day  with  a  S.  S.  W.  wind.  We 
kept  West  by  South  under  well  reefed  sails.  I  can  very 
well  make  a  division  and  call  this  the  second  Cape  storm, 
which  had  so  far  subsided  that  we  were  able  to  slightly 
loosen  the  sails  by  five  o  'clock  of  the  same  afternoon.  We 
had  in  all  ninety-nine  hours  of  storm  which  though  vary- 
ing in  severity,  had  actually  raged  all  this  time,  a  fact 
which  is  even  a  rare  occurrence  in  this  stonn-beaten  lati- 
tude. Saturday,  the  thirteenth,  we  had  quite  a.  severe 
North  wind  and  rain,  the  air,  however,  being  less  cold 
than  on  the  previous  day.  The  sea  was  still  exceedingly 
rough  and  the  waves  broke  over  our  deck  as  before.  We 
continued  Southwest  to  Southwest  by  AYest  as  the  wind 
would  permit  us. 

The  weather  remained  thus  somewhat  bearable  until 
about  half -past  ten  in  the  evening  when,  without  the  least 


124    EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

warning  or  sign,  another  tomado'  struck  us,  coming  from 
South-Southwest  with  such  violence  that  even  the  most 
inexperienced  of  our  passengers  marv^eled  that  our  masts 
were  not  carried  away;  even  the  captain  himself  had  ex- 
pected it. 

As  already  mentioned  this  stonn  caught  us  at  a  tima 
when  there  was  absolutely  no  preparation  made  to  meet 
it  as  it  came  unexpectedly;  the  barometer  did  not  even 
fall  until  we  were  in  the  midst  of  it,  when  it  went  down 
to  25"  2'". —  No  wonder  then  that  all  our  sails  were  set 
at  the  time  the  storm  so  suddenly  broke  on  us.  It  was 
only  possible  to  fasten  and  secure  the  sails  by  the  most 
strenuous  efforts  of  the  captain  and  crew  which  were 
greatly  hindered  by  the  thick  snowstonn  and  constant 
motion  of  the  ship.  But  they  succeeded  in  fastening  the 
top-jib  and  foremast-sails,  though  ever>"  one  of  them 
was  more  or  less  damaged  or  torn.  The  main  sail,  how- 
ever, was  doomed.  While  it  still  stood  the  tornado  grew 
fiercer  and  fiercer  and  there  was  danger  in  every  mo- 
ment's delay;  but  our  captain  dared  not  give  the 
order  which  was  to  have  saved  the  beautiful  sail  made 
of  nearly  fifteen  hundred  square  feet  of  heaviest, 
strongest  sail  cloth.  All  remonstration,  all  begging 
proved  fruitless.  Nobody  was  willing  to  risk  his  life 
to  the  imminent  danger — for  such  it  seemed.  At  last 
there  came  forth  three  volunteers  in  the  persons  of  our 
sail  maker,  cook  and  ship's  carpenter— three  men,  every 
one  of  whom  had  already  passed  his  thirty-fifth  year  and 
was  a  true  specimen  of  a  South  Sea  sailor— these  men 
were  ready  to  risk  the  hazardous  undertaking.  They 
were  just  going  along  the  main  yard,  slowly  and  cau- 
tiously, when  we  heard  a  temfic  noise,  something  like 
the  firing  of  a  cannon.  The  storm  had  torn  the  brand 
new  sail.  The  cai^oenter  retired,  but  the  cook  and  the 
sail  maker  undertook  courageously  to  save  at  least  part 
of  the  cloth;  but  what  could  have  been  accomplished  even 
by  the  fist  of  a  Hercules  under  such  circumstances?  Rag 
after  rag  tore  away  from  the  beautiful  sail  and  in  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour  there  was  nothing  left  except  a  few  tatters, 


fa  -= 

o 

Q  •=> 


b 
o 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  1S5 

beateu  by  the  wind.  Tliis  happened  about  one  o'cloek  at 
night.  The  next  thing  was  another  billow  of  unusual 
height  and  momentum,  which  came  dashing  over  the 
helm,  throwing  two,  sailors  from  the  wheel,  one  of  whom 
had  his  left  hand  crushed;  again  the  mizzen  mast  broke 
and  with  it  the  rigging,  the  whole  coming  down  greatly 
damaged,  but  we  managed  to  phice  it  securely.  At  four 
o'clock,  having  raged  for  fully  five  hours,  the  storm  sub- 
sided, taking  along  about  thirty  feet  of  our  backboard 
trimming  as  a  trophy.  The  wind  calmed  down  quickly 
about  seven  o  'clock,  giving  way  to  the  Sunday  sun,  which 
shone  bright  and  warm,  while  we  had  only  a  pleasant 
Southwestern  breeze. 

I  hardly  ever  witnessed  a  sadder  scene  than  that  which 
our  vessel  presented  on  this  morning.  It  vras  very  cold. 
The  rigging  hung  in  a  most  dilapidated  condition,  torn 
here  and  there,  and  again  knotted;  some  of  it  was  l5''ing 
on  deck,  which  was  coated  with  ice  more  than  an  inch 
thick  with  the  exception  of  a  few  spots  where  the  snow 
had  gathered.  Bowsprit,  anchor,  capstan,  in  one  word, 
the  whole  bow  of  the  ship  was  thickly  covered  with  ice 
and  snow.  The  masts  and  tackling  were  likewise  cov- 
ered with  ice,  at  least  as  high  as  the  spray  of  the  waves 
had  reached,  which  represented  a  height  at  least  of 
twent}'-  to  thirty  feet.  Under  the  yards,  on  the  ropes  and 
other  protruding  parts  of  the  running  rigging,  there  were 
long  icicles  hanging  everywhere.  One  piece  of  the  broken 
mizzen  mast  was  lying  on  deck,  while  anotlier  one  fas- 
tened to  the  vessel,  was  trailing  along  in  the  water;  the 
sail  of  the  mizzen  was  on  the  cabin  roof,  partly  frozen 
and  partly  covered  with  snow,  one  end  of  it  reaching  con- 
siderably over  board.  Of  all  the  sails  there  remained 
only  the  little  bark  sail,  which  was  almost  useless  under 
the  slight  breeze  and  the  raging  sea.  The  snow  covered 
deck  was  seldom  crossed  by  any  one  this  morning,  as  the 
whole  crew  was  sadly  in  need  of  rest  after  that  terrible 
night's  work;  everj^body  was  therefore  trying  to  obtain 
as  much  comfort  in  his  bunk  as  was  possible  under  the 
circumstances. 


136  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

The  condition  of  our  vessel  was  a  pitiful  one  indeed 
and  I  must  really  confess  that  on  this  day  at  least  I  was 
not  free  from  worries  as  to  our  immediate  future.  Four 
of  our  sailors  had  become  disabled,  among  whom  were 
three  who  had  become  seriously  injured  externally;  our 
brand  new  sheet  iron  side  coatings  had  given  way  and 
could  not  be  repaired  on  account  of  the  prevailing  frost. 
Our  running  rigging  was  torn  or,  if  not  completelj^  so,  it 
was  worn  out  beyond  remedy  and  in  this  case  too  the  cold 
forbade  any  attempt  at  repairs  or  renewal.  The  worst 
feature  of  the  situation  was  the  condition  of  our  sails, 
it  being  truly  distressing.  Until  we  reached  La  Plata 
the  old  sails  had  been  in  constant  use,  after  which  the 
two  topsails,  fore  and  mainsails  were  replaced  by  new 
ones,  which  had  never  been  in  service.  But  even  these 
new  sails  had  suffered  terribly,  especially  the  big  topsail, 
which  showed  no  less  than  eleven  holes,  large  and  small; 
that  of  the  fore  mast  had  become  so  threadbare  that  one 
could  have  easily  outlined  the  sun  or  the  moon  from  be- 
hind it.  The  only  consolation  in  this  hour  of  general  dis- 
tress was  to  be  found  in  the  fact  that  the  body  of  our 
vessel  had  suffered  comparatively  little,  so  that  the  water 
at  the  pumps  did  not  amount  to  much. 

Thus  were  we  compelled  to  float  till  about  two  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon  on  this  lonely  Sunday. 

The  vessel  was  then  put  in  repairs,  first  by  replacing 
top  and  jibsails  which  were  set  to  the  light  Southwestern 
wind;  after  this  was  accomplished,  all  hands  were  ready 
to  fix  up  the  mizzen  again,  in  which  we  succeeded  by 
seven  o'clock;  the  breeze  blew  towards  the  North-North- 
west. 

The  night  between  Sunday  and  Monday,  the  15th,  was 
the  first  one  which  passed  somewhat  quietly  since  we 
passed  the  Strait  Le  ]\Iaire.  We  succeeded  in  making 
good  time  during  the  forenoon  and  were  even  encouraged 
to  set  the  topsail  to  West  by  South.  However,  when  two 
o'clock  came  we  were  again  overtaken  by  a  severe  storm, 
accorayjanied  by  snow,  coming  from  the  South;  the  former 
cutting  cold  prevailed  and  this  state  of  affairs  continued 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  127 

till  the  following  forenoon.  On  Tuesday,  the  sixteenth, 
the  wind  turned  again  to  Southwest.  AVe  had  bright 
weather,  though  it  was  icy  cold  and  the  deck  remained 
thickly  glazed  with  ice  all  day  long.  During  the  night 
we  reefed  the  big  topsail,  gaif  top,  etc.,  and  steered  West- 
Northwest. 

On  Monday,  the  17th  of  September,  we  again  had  a 
change  of  wind  after  a  calm  of  short  duration.  We  had 
the  great  satisfaction  of  finding  the  air  mild  and  agree- 
able, and  by  six  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  snow  and  ice, 
which  had  covered  our  ship  for  days,  began  to  thaw  and 
soon  disappeared  from  the  deck  as  well  as  from  the  rig- 
ging. The  dark  green  coloring  of  the  ocean  and  the  calm 
of  the  waves  announced  again  the  close  vicinity  of  land. 
We  kept  Southwest  by  South,  and  made  a  very  satisfac- 
tory run. 

Toward  eight  o'clock  we  caught  sight  of  a  little  island 
rock,  Cape  Deceit,  which  is  about  two  German  miles  from 
Cape  Horn,  and  in  our  estimation  we  must  have  seen  it 
at  a  distance  of  eleven  miles.  Hardly  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  had  passed  when  we  beheld  the  insurmountable  peak 
of  the  celebrated  and  much  feared  Cape  itself.  We  kept 
Cape  Horn  in  view  till  about  four  o'clock  in  the  after- 
noon, after  which  the  thickening  air  commenced  to  hin- 
der observation.  When  we  had  approached  the  Cape 
within  eight  German  miles,  its  immense  mass  of  rocks 
was  plainly  outlined  on  the  darkening  horizon.  At  the 
same  time  and  distance  there  came  a  number  of  promi- 
nently projecting  points  of  the  Hermites  Islands  plainly 
within  our  view.  The  wind  was  rather  refreshing  during 
the  day  and  turned  gradually  toward  North.  We  soon 
shortened  sails  and  about  four  o'clock  we  came  within 
a  short  distance  of  the  Diego  Ramirez  Islands,  a  little 
archipelago  consisting  of  thirty-six  large  and  small 
islands,  which  are  close  together  and  look  like  black  per- 
pendicular rocks  in  the  unfathomable  sea.  The  highest 
points  of  these  islands  roughly  estimated  may  be  a  thou- 
sand feet  above  the  ocean  level;  they  show  clearly  the 
volcano  type,  are  completely  barren  and  covered  with 


128         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

perpetual  snow.  The  sight  of  these  cliffs,  on  which  the 
most  terrific  storms  and  breakers  had  beaten  during 
thousands  of  years  past,  created  a  feeling  of  indescrib- 
able gloom,  uneasiness  and  sadness,  which  was  rather 
increased  by  the  immense  swarms  of  screeching  alba- 
trosses, ocean  geese  and  cape  doves,  which  find  shelter 
here  by  millions.  As  we  were  lucky  enough  to  reach 
these  Eamirez  Isles  by  half  past  six  o'clock,  i.  e.,  just 
before  dark,  at  a  distance  of  about  four  German  miles, 
I  could  not  forego  the  pleasure  of  drawing  a  few  sketches, 
though,  upon  my  word,  my  fingers  became  as  stiff  as  the 
boras  of  a  billy  goat. 

The  approaching  night  made  it  gradually  impossible 
for  us  to  distinguish  the  disappearing  of  the  archipelago 
from  our  horizon,  and  the  strong  breeze  drove  our  ship 
quickly  through  the  calm  waters  in  a  Southwest  direc- 
tion. We  had  by  this  time  crossed  the  Atlantic  in  its 
wildest  dimension  and  entered  upon  the  waters  of  the 
South  Sea. 

I  shall  now  take  a  short  respite  and  then  make  a  re- 
view for  your  benefit  of  the  last  few  days,  to  complete 
this  report. 

Now,  since  everything  is  a  matter  of  the  past,  I  am  glad 
to  have  gone  through  it.  The  trials  were  indeed  over- 
whelming and  injurious  to  the  health  of  every  one,  but, 
notwithstanding  all  privations,  I  had  the  good  fortune 
of  coming  out  hale  and  hearty. 

It  creates  quite  a  sensation  while  one  is  sitting  in  the 
circle  of  loved  ones  around  the  aromatic  tea  table 
and  close  by  the  old-fashioned  fireplace,  to  read  a  well 
written  description  of  some  thrilling  sea  novel,  with  its 
snowstorms,  its  creaking  and  breaking  of  masts,  its  rat- 
tling of  frozen  rigging;  and  one  thus  by  contrast  feels  a 
glow  of  satisfaction  in  the  warm  and  cosy  homestead. 
But  you  will  believe  me,  that  to  read  a  description  of  a 
toniado,  and  to  actually  live  through  it,  are  decidedly 
two  veiy  different  tilings,  particularly  when  the  scene 
takes  place  amidst  real  snow  and  ice  around  Cape  Horn. 
One  may  experience  a  profound  feeling  for  all  that  is 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  1S9 

imposing  and  grand  on  the  wild  waves  of  the  ocean  or 
during  a  storm  just  beiow  the  Equator,  but  when  one  lias 
reached  the  sixtieth  degree  of  South  latitude,  one  is  not 
likely  to  indulge  in  mere  sentimental  or  emotional  im- 
pressions. On  the  contrary,  he  is  more  forcibly  reminded 
of  the  g-nawings  of  an  empty  stomach,  the  freezing  hands, 
the  ice  cold  feet  and  the  wet,  frozen  clothes !  It  is  really 
not  a  fable  if  I  tell  you  that  we  were  actually  endangering 
our  lives  in  our  attempts  to  fetch  our  scant  meals ;  they 
were  scant,  because  it  was  impossible  for  the  cook  to  fill 
the  kettles  more  than  half  full  on  account  of  the  ten-ible 
rocking  of  the  vessel.  The  bitijig  frost,  the  ice  coated, 
slippery  deck,  strewn  with  fragments  of  rope  and  rig- 
gings, which  were  treacherously  hidden  under  half-frozen 
snow,  now  and  then  a  rushing  billow  which  saturated 
one's  clothes  to  the  skin— all  this  having  been  successfully 
overcome  on  the  way  to  the  kitchen,  we  received  there 
the  prize  of  our  undertaking— half  a  cup  of  tea  or  coffee ; 
and  then  we  had  to  return  with  it  in  the  same  dangerous 
manner,  and  happy  was  he  when  the  storm  only  spilled 
half  the  contents  of  his  cherished  bowl,  and  it  is  needless 
to  state  that  tea  and  cotfee  were  completely  cold  by  the 
time  we  had  reached  the  steerage  again.  Similar  were 
our  experiences  at  dinner  time.  The  food  was  invariably 
cold  and  too  little  to  satisfy  one's  craving.  In  addition 
to  this  you  may  consider  the  wet  clothes,  wet  feet  and 
hands,  the  cutting,  cold  draught  of  the  steerage  in  which 
the  water  would  at  times  be  splashing  as  much  as  on 
deck;  then  figure  to  yourself  the  soaking  wet  mattresses 
and  woollen  blankets,  which  were  kept  in  this  state  by 
every  new  shower  wave,  the  water  of  which  would  find 
its  way  through  the  cracks  of  the  deck.  Imagine  that, 
whether  one  sits  or  lies  down,  there  is  absolutely  no  com- 
fort, no  rest,  as  the  constant  motion  of  the  vessel  requires 
as  much  strength  to  keep  these  positions  as  would  walk- 
ing or  standing  under  the  same  circumstances.  You  will 
thus  gain  a  slight  conception  of  our  frame  of  mind  during 
these  unhappy  days  and  of  our  great  joy  when  we  had 
Cape  Horn  behind  us. 

9 


130  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

With  all  our  misfortunes  we  still  have  reason  to  re- 
joice. As  much  as  we  had  to  suffer,  we  had  at  least  the 
satisfaction  of  seeing  some  extraordinary  sights,  which 
recomijensed  me  at  least  abundantly  for  the  hardships 
we  had  met. 

There  are  hundreds  of  ships  sailijig  around  the  cape 
that  do  not  even  see  land  at  a  distance,  while  we  had  the 
advantage  of  obtaining  a  broad  day  view  of  the  cape  as 
well  as  of  the  Diego  Eamirez  Islands,  when  we  had  al- 
ready made  up  our  mind  that  it  would  be  our  unavoidable 
fate  to  cruise  the  South  Sea  for  weeks  only  amidst  ice  and 
snowstorms.  We,  too,  had  sailed  a  whole  day  along  the 
romantic  coast  of  the  ''Fireland"  (tieiTa  del  fuego)  and 
passed  the  Strait  Le  Maire  on  a  bright  day,  which  is  in 
itself  an  unusual  occurrence,  as  only  very  experienced 
sea  faring  men  who  know  the  cape  and  its  surroundings 
well  and  who  have  passed  it  often  will  dare  to  pass 
through  this  narrow  strait.  The  only  conditions  which 
can  tempt  them  to  risk  this  trip  are  bright  weather  and 
light,  favorable  wind  (by  which  I  mean  West  and  North- 
AVest  wind)  which  will  enable  them  to  make  the  run  in 
daylight;  otherwise  they  prefer  to  sail  around  Staten 
Island,  foregoing  thereby  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  inter- 
esting points  I  have  mentioned.  Everything  seemed  to 
come  my  way  during  this  long  voyage  so  that,  notwith- 
standing the  many  hardships  and  privations,  I  cannot 
find  much  reason  for  complaint,  but  rather  see  good  cause 
for  satisfaction. 

Let  us  therefore  be  thankful  that  my  voyage  aroimd 
the  cape  terminated  so  satisfactorily. 

One  can  safely  consider  the  dangers  of  Cape  Horn  over- 
come as  soon  as  the  Eamirez  Islands  are  passed,  for  the 
difference  between  the  South  Sea  and  the  Atlantic  is 
pronounced  in  many  respects,  and  it  rarely  occurs  that  a 
vessel  which  has  once  reached  this  point  is  buffeted  back 
again  over  the  meridian  of  Cape  Horn. 

Tlie  Northwest  and  West-Northwest  winds,  which  blew 
during  the  next  few  days,  compelled  us  again  to  take  a 
Southwestern  direction  till  we  had  reached  the  sixty-first 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  131 

degree  of  southern  latitude.  Tlie  weather  compared  to 
that  of  the  same  degree  in  the  Atlantic  was  far  less  cold, 
though  more  foggy  and  the  storms  were  not  as  severe. 

The  waves  were  still  rolling  high,  though  much  more 
regular  than  was  experienced  in  the  strait  which  lies  be- 
tween the  archipelago  off  the  New  South  Shetland  coast 
and  the  Fireland;  this  strait  is  hardly  ninety  miles  in 
width.  We  must,  however,  take  into  consideration  the 
fact  that  the  powerful  northern  ocean  current,  which 
runs  along  the  coast  of  Patagonia,  adds  materially  to  the 
turbulence  of  the  sea  in  that  region. 

I  remember  the  picture  in  Meyer's  Universal  Encyclo- 
pedia, well,  quite  well;  it  is  a  perfect  representation  of 
facts  and  even  the  portraiture  of  the  ocean  has  not  at  all 
been  exaggerated.  The  waves  reach  an  almost  incredible 
height;  I  have  seen  them  roll  up  many  a  day,  reaching 
a  fluctuating  line  that  would  easily  measure  twenty-five 
or  thirty  feet  from  the  foot  to  their  highest  cur^'^e.  The 
** lambkins,"  as  the  sailors  often  call  the  splashing  crowns 
of  foam,  are  frequently  from  sixty  to  seventy-five  feet 
long  and  twenty  to  thirty  feet  wide.  Just  such  little 
"lambkins"  knocked  in  our  ship's  waist  and  broke  our 
mizzen  mast. 

When  we  tried  to  set  our  main  sail  on  Friday,  the  19th, 
the  yard  broke  right  off,  probably  in  consequence  of  dam- 
age which  it  had  sustained  before  because  the  prevailing 
breeze,  though  strong,  did  by  no  means  blow  hard  enough 
to  warrant  such  an  occurrence.  The  loss  was  soon  re- 
placed by  the  fore  yard ;  of  course  we  had  to  do  without 
sail  on  the  fore  mast.  We  kept  the  southwestern  course 
without  much  interruption  until  Monday,  the  22d,  when 
an  immense  whale  came  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
our  starboard ;  it  measured  at  least  eighty  to  ninety  feet 
in  length.  It  had  become  necessary  for  us  to  seek  the 
wide  ocean,  partly  on  account  of  the  storm,  partly  on 
account  of  the  close  proximity  of  dangerous  trap  cliffs, 
which  are  quite  numerous  on  this  coast.  What  retarded 
our  progre«is  most  at  the  present  stage  was  the  extremely 
poor  condition  of  our  sails  and  rigging,  which,  as  already 


132         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

mentionGd,  needed,  under  the  circumstances,  the  greatest 
care  in  their  handling. 

Commencing  the  twenty-second  we  steered  Northward. 
The  weather  continued  to  be  somewhat  rough  and  the 
wind  blew  from  the  North  and  Northwest,  bringing  with 
it  a  good  deal  of  rain;  and  these  northerly  winds  did  not 
leave  us  until  the  twenty-sixth.  About  noon  on  this  last 
named  date  the.  air  clouded  visibly  and  soon  after  we  took 
occasion  to  rejoice  in  a  heavy  snow  fall  which  in  these 
regions  is  taken  as  a  good  omen  for  favorable  wind,  as 
the  North  wind  brings  warmth  and  rain  but  no  snow 
with  it. 

Our  hope  had  not  deceived  us  as  a  good  South  wind 
came  up  toward  five  o'clock,  enabling  us  to  turn  N.  N.  W. 
This  favorable  change  continued  throughout  the  night 
and  well  along  Monday  morning,  thus  helping  us  con- 
siderably as  we  had  kept  full  sail  all  the  while.  "We  had 
also  occasion  to  hail  a  South  Sea.  hunter  but  could  not 
understand  each  other.  A  snowfall,  probably  the  last 
one  on  this  journey,  changed  the  atmosphere  slightly. 
Monday,  September  29th,  was  a  playday  for  the  winds 
which  seemed  to  chase  each  other  from  and  into  all  direc- 
tions. The  crew  made  good  use  of  the  leisure  hours  by 
mending  torn  sails  and  replacing  the  ones  that  had  be- 
come dangerously  storm-beaten.  The  large  mainsail  had 
suffered  much  and  our  men  worked  diligently  to  make  it 
sea  and  ship  shape.  After  dark  the  wind  settled  once 
more  in  the  West  and  a  heavy  storm  came  up.  How 
thankful  we  were  to  have  repaired  our  sails,  as  the  wind 
gave  us  more  and  more  concern. 

It  broke  the  fore  yard  (which  was  fully  sixty  feet  long 
and  eighteen  inches  thick)  in  two  like  a  match;  this  hap- 
pened about  four  o  'clock  in  the  morning  of  Tuesday,  the 
thirtieth.  The  repairs  thus  made  imperatively  necessai'y 
took  all  day  and  delayed  our  progress  considerably.  We 
fortunately  found  in  the  reserve  hatch  an  old  damaged 
but  large  yard,  which  was  put  into  sei'^nce  after  having 
been  placed  in  proper  condition  by  attaching  small  se- 
curity planks  and  winding  a  strong  rope  around  the  weak 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  133 

parts.  As  the  vessel  was  laboring  heavily  through  the 
hollow  sea,  and  the  rain  being  much  in  evidence,  it  was 
quite  a  difficult  task  to  bring  this  heavy  yard  in  place  and 
in  ship  shape  condition  for  seivice,  and  night  had  already 
set  in  when  the  last  finishing  touches  permitted  its  re- 
newed use.  The  fore  topsail  was  set  once  more.  On 
AVednesday,  the  first  of  October,  as  early  as  one  o  'clock  in 
the  morning,  there  came  a  heavy  rainstorm  which  de- 
stroyed our  jib  for  the  second  time;  as  soon  as  the  sun 
had  risen  this  was  replaced  by  a  brand  new  sail  and 
again  set  agoing.  Toward  evening  "we  again  made  our 
bill  without  consulting  the  host"  and  this  happened  quite 
often  during  our  voyage.  We  were  steering  toward  the 
coast,  thinking  that  the  next  morning  would  find  us  close 
to  flie  Bay  of  Corral,  which  in  reality  is  the  harbor  of 
Valdivia.  But  we  were  once  more  to  be  disappointed  as 
the  wind  turned  North  and  continued  thus  with  steady 
showers  until  about  noon  of  Saturday,  the  fourth,  which 
compelled  us  to  cruise  once  more.  We  were  so  thor- 
oughly disappointed  at  not  seeing  the  Harbor  of  Corral 
as  we  expected,  that  neither  the  sight  of  three  immense 
whales  nor  the  reappearance  of  a  few  flying  fish  were 
able  to  dissipate  our  bad  humor.  But  we  had  not  seen 
the  worst.  About  one  o'clock  we  were  once  more  in  the 
midst  of  a  heavy  Northwest  storm,  bringing  with  it  hail, 
thunder  and  lightning.  As  quickly  as  possible  the  jib, 
main,  top  and  mizzen  sails  were  secured  and  the  vessel 
went  West-Southwest. 

Hardly  had  we  changed  the  course  when  lightning 
struck  the  water  about  150  to  200  feet  from  our  ship  side, 
followed  by  heavy  thunder  bolts.  In  the  evening  we  had 
lightning  in  the  West.  Though  the  storm  abated  during 
Sunday,  there  was  little  change  in  the  air  until  Tuesday, 
the  seventh.  We  were  all  in  bad  humor.  It  was  really 
enough  to  vex  anyone.  During  a  whole  week  we  had 
been  close  to  our  destination,  and  yet  we  had  never  made 
more  than  a  day's  journey  and  had  even  seen  land  Mon- 
day morning  at  nine  o'clock,  some  three  miles  away. 
About  five  miles  from  Cape  Carlos  there  was  a  high 


134  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

pointed  elevation  which  prevented  our  entry  at  the  time, 
but  we  had  to  be  thankful  to  God  for  being  permitted  to 
sail  in  close  proximity  to  the  coast. 

The  weather  became  more  favorable  on  Wednesday, 
the  eighth,  when  the  wind  settled  in  the  West,  blowing 
more  regularly,  while  the  sea  calmed  considerably  and 
the  air  brightened.  We  pressed  the  sails  hard  all  day 
long  so  that  our  larboard  was  constantly  under  water. 
We  had  yet  a  few  showers  during  the  afternoon,  which 
ended  about  six  o'clock,  followed  by  a  magnificent,  com- 
plete double  rainbow,  which  exhibited  a  beautiful  variety 
of  harmonious  colors,  the  like  of  which  I  have  never  be- 
fore witnessed.  The  air  became  bright  and  mild,  the 
wind  turning  Southwest,  which  made  it  comparatively 
easy  to  set  full  sails  for  land.  The  night,  enlivened  by 
beautiful  moonlight,  aided  our  purpose  greatly.  In  order 
to  avoid  an  untimely  arrival  we  made  another  little  trip, 
just  enough  to  fill  out  the  time  from  eleven  in  the  evening 
to  two  o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  horizon  was  clear 
until  daybreak,  when  a  light  fog  set  in.  When  five 
o'clock  came  it  was  sufficiently  bright  and  clear  to  recog- 
nize the  high  coast  of  Cliile,  which  was  about  four  miles 
from  our  vessel  in  East-Northeastern  direction.  We  now 
sailed  slowly  along  the  high  and  rocky  coast,  which  was 
covered  with  an  impenetrable  primitive  forest  down  to 
the  sea  level,  until  we  reached  Cape  San  Carlos  by  one 
0  'clock.  While  it  is  generally  necessary  to  give  the  cape 
a  wide  berth,  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  pass  right 
around  it,  and  half  an  hour  later  we  were  at  anchor,  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  Fort  Corral,  in  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  and  picturesque  harbors  of  the  world.  One 
hundred  and  twenty  days  and  ten  hours  and  a  half  had 
passed  since  we  weighed  anchor  in  Cuxhaven. 

It  was  with  a  strange,  indescribable  feeling  that  I  first 
trod  upon  American  soil.  I  slowly  ascended  the  narrow 
path  among  the  steep  rocks,  which  led  from  the  beach 
into  the  Chilean  village  Corral,  but  while  my  comrades 
dispersed  to  find  wine,  bread  and  cheese  in  the  cottages  I 
continued  my  way  into  the  forest  covered  mountains. 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  135 

My  pa.th  with  the  dried-up  bed  of  a  mountain  or  forest 
stream,  a  deep  cavity  between  mossy  walls,  on  which 
wild  climbers  would  run  up  and  down,  swinging  their 
gay  flowers  back  and  forth  in  the  evening  air.  Every 
step  in  this  rocky  wall  gave  me  indescribable  delight,  so 
that  I  made  for  myself  a  path  through  weeds  and  bushes 
of  fuschias,  which  were  seemingly  determined  to  oppose 
my  progress  the  higher  I  went. 

When  I  had  reached  a  height  of  about  four  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea  I  stopped  and  sat  down  upon  the  stump 
of  an  old  laurel  tree,  which  was  covered  with  moss. 
There  at  my  feet  lay  the  harbor  in  which  I  counted  ten 
barks  and  one  three-masted  vessel,  all  Chileans ;  all  were 
at  anchor  and  further  away  was  our  '  *  Victoria. ' '  To  my 
right  there  reflected  the  beautiful  evening  sky  in  the  mir- 
ror-like mouth  of  the  Rio  Valdivia,  between  the  high 
Fort  of  Niebla  and  the  charming  island  Mansera,  the  tree 
covered  mountain  peak  of  which  was  only  sur|3assed  in 
height  by  the  snow-capped  peak  of  the  Volcano  of  Villa 
Rica,  which  showed  light  smoke;  to  my  left  was  the  open- 
ing of  the  harbor;  between  mountain  forests  and  the 
rocky  coast  of  the  South  Sea  could  be  plainly  seen  as 
far  as  Cape  *'E1  Molino."  The  coast  mountains,  some 
six  hundred  feet  high  and  covered  with  thickly  set  trees, 
were  under  the  spell  of  profound  silence,  as  even  the 
screeching  of  the  parrot  could  but  rarely  be  heard. 
Everything  was  solemn  and  quiet.  Had  it  not  been  for 
the  approaching  darkness  I  surely  would  not  have 
thought  of  returning;  even  then  I  did  so  reluctantly,  by 
the  way  through  the  arroyo  bed. 

While  Gininhagen  and  I  were  awaiting  the  boat  of  the 
''Victoria,"  we  accidentally  met  Don  Rafael  Asenco,  the 
port  master,  who  drew  us  into  an  English  conversation. 
The  man  must  have  taken  a  liking  to  us  as  he  asked  us  to 
be  his  g-uests  the  same  evening,  an  invitation  which  we 
thankfully  accepted.  We  ajipeared  at  the  proper  time 
to  find  five  or  six  Cliilean  sea  captains  and  two  French- 
men. The  ladies  present,  among  whom  the  three  daugh- 
ters of  Seiior  Asenco,  spoke  only  Spanish.    Notwithstand- 


136  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ing  this  I  spent  a  very  pleasant  evening  as  I  could  any- 
how talk  to  some  of  the  captains  either  in  French  or 
English.  There  was  dancing  and  singing  with  guitar  ac- 
companiment, all  with  doors  and  windows  open,  which 
are  only  closed  in  times  when  peox)le  do  not  wish  to 
receive  visitors. 

The  night  was  mild  and  when  I  returned  about  mid- 
night to  Capt.  Sanlar's  gig  my  whole  voyage  with  all  its 
disagreeabloness  seemed  but  a  past  dream.  AMiile  we 
were  gliding  along  the  mirror-lilvo  bay,  the  beautiful, 
silver}',  full  moon  dipped  its  shining  light  into  the  silent 
waters  and  the  dark  forest  threw  its  quiet  shadow  about, 
while  we  returned  on  board  the  "Victoria." 

Such  were  the  first  few  hours  which  I  spent  upon 
American  soil.  The  kind  hospitality  which  I  found  upon 
my  arrival  in  a  foreign  land  left  a  lasting  impression  and 
served  as  a  good  omen. 

During  the  following  two  days  we  had  many  visits 
from  Germans  of  Valdivia,  which  did  not  interest  me 
particularly.  1  preferred  to  tramp  and  climb  on  the 
beach  and  in  the  mountains,  notwithstanding  the  fre- 
quent showers.  The  weather  became  pleasant  and  steady 
about  the  Sunday  following.  The  night  before  was 
marked  by  the  departure  of  those  passengers  who  desired 
to  remain  in  Valdivia  and  as  I  was  ver^^  anxious  to  see 
that  city  I  joined  the  travelers,  among  whom  was  Griin- 
hagen.  AVe  rented  a  boat  and  the  five  of  us,  accompanied 
by  a  young  merchant  named  Ulitemann,  who  had  been  in 
Valdivia  about  a  j^ear,  left  the  ''Victoria"  at  nine  o'clock 
in  the  monrlng  of  Sunday,  the  twelfth.  Our  way  led  up 
the  broad  and  deep  Eio  Valdivia,  which  bears  the  name 
Calla-calle  after  passing  the  city.  The  high  rocky  banks 
are  covered  with  impenetrable  forests  which  rarely  show 
a  mark  of  ax  or  fire.  Here  and  there  in  caves  we  saw 
scattered  a  few  huts  and  block-liouses,  the  dwellings  of 
Chilean  wood  choppers  (poones)  or  of  newly  immigrated 
German  colonists.  Further  up  and  particularly  begin- 
ning wliere  the  Rio  Cinices  empties  its  waters  into  the 
Valdivia,  about  three- fourths  of  a  mile  below  the  city, 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  137 

the  country  becomes  more  level,  while  the  coast  cordillera 
seemingly  runs  aside  from  the  river  bed;  however,  one 
sees  neither  here  nor  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  city 
cultivated  ground  worth  mentioning,  as  in  most  places 
nothing  has  been  done  but  rough  tree  cutting,  whereof 
the  stumps  remained  standing. 

About  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  in  Val- 
divia.  The  town  did  not  impress  me  as  being  particularly 
foreign  in  its  build.  There  were  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty  to  three  hundred  one-story  wooden  houses  scattered 
in  disorder,  mostly  covered  with  shingles,  rarely  with 
straw;  few  had  glass  windows.  The  streets  were  all  with- 
out paving  or  grading  and  ran  up  and  down,  owing  to 
the  fact  that  the  town  is  built  upon  uneven  ground.  Most 
houses  have  some  kind  of  a  nursery  attached,  which  like- 
wise contains  a  few  vegetable  and  flower  beds;  rose 
bushes  and  apple  trees  were  already  in  full  bloom.  The 
whole  place  bore  the  appearance  of  a.  large  primitive 
village. 

We  remained  in  Valdivia  until  Monday  and  met  great 
hospitality  among  the  German  residents.  While  they  do 
not  put  themselves  to  any  particular  trouble  for  one's 
sake,  their  hearty  welcome  makes  you  feel  quite  at  home. 
There  are  a  great  many  Germans  in  Valdivia,  who  show 
signs  of  wealth  in  a  comparatively  short  time,  particu- 
larly the  artisans.  However,  they  do  not  live  altogether 
in  harmony  with  their  Chilean  neighbors,  whose  truly 
Spanish  tenderness  and  ease  is  often  met  by  characteris- 
tic German  severity  and  firmness.  Politically  they  re- 
main non-partisan,  but  they  have  established  a  so-called 
citizens'  guard  of  their  own  in  order  to  maintain  neces- 
sary watchfulness  and  secure  to  themselves  protection 
in  these  days  of  unrest.  They  have  even  succeeded  in 
maintaining  a  guard  in  the  government  building.  The 
militia  of  the  natives,  which  is  at  present  in  arms 
throughout  Chile,  is  as  comical  looking  a  sight  as  you 
can  possibly  see.  The  whole  company  goes  bare-footed, 
their  uniforms  which  are  made  after  the  old  Prussian 
pattern,  are  blue,  trimmed  with  red,  over  which  they 


138  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

wear  the  "poncho,"  the  national  garment,  which  con- 
sists of  a  square,  gay  colored  -woolen  blanket.  This 
blanket  has  a  slit  in  the  middle,  through  which  one  puts 
his  head.  The  *' poncho"  is  considered  by  Gennans  and 
natives  alike  a  very  useful  article,  particularly  when 
on  horseback,  as  it  is  not  only  comfortable  and  warm, 
but  of  so  closely  woven  material  that  the  rain  does  not 
penetrate  it.  We  left  Valdivia  on  Monday,  the  13th, 
after  having  explored  every  point  of  interest;  it  only 
took  us  about  two  hours  to  reach  our  vessel  again,  as  we 
had  four  able  native  rowers. 

The  weather  remained  favorable,  as  I  have  already 
stated,  and  it  seems  almost  unnecessary  to  assure  3^ou 
that  I  made  good  use  of  my  limbs,  as  you  are  perfectly 
aware  of  my  love  for  excursions,  particularly  when  trips 
into  a  mountainous  region  are  so  easily  accomplished 
as  they  are  here.  Whenever  we  wanted  to  visit  some 
point  of  interest,  unapproachable  by  land,  we  would  row 
along  the  shore  of  the  bay,  and  thereby  attain  our  object. 
At  other  times  I  would  just  take  it  easy  by  lying  down 
in  the  boat  and,  like  a  ferr>^  man,  await  a  chance  to  take 
a  parcel  ashore,  which  often  took  me  across  the  bay  to 
the  islands  Niebla  or  Mansera,  which,  though  about  half 
a  German  mile  distant,  did  not  even  tire  me,  when  T 
had  to  make  my  way  against  flood  and  wind. 

The  harbor  was  originally  well  fortified  by  the  Span- 
iards but  now  both  forts  and  batteries  are  very  much 
neglected  and  I  doubt  if  one  would  be  able  to  find  a 
dozen  old  iron  guns  which  could  be  pressed  into  service. 
The  buildings  are,  for  the  greater  part,  neglected  and 
covered  with  moss  and  climbers ;  they  are  in  many  in- 
stances mere  ruins  of  which  one  sees  quite  a  number 
all  around  the  bay.  Tlie  little  isle  Mansera,  which  is 
exclusively  inhabited  by  Cliileans,  has  the  ruins  of  a 
monastery,  which  are  indeed  very  picturesque. 

Corral  is  a  poor  mountain  village  with  onl}^  two  Ger- 
man residents,  the  Klix  brothers,  one  of  whom  has  a 
little  store  in  the  village,  while  the  other  one  owns  a 
saw  mill  on  the  road  to  the  fort.     Outside  of  the  few 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  139 

village  streets  there  is  only  one  single  road  which  may 
be  called  practicable;  it  leads  along  the  bank  of  the 
bay  toward  the  old  Fort  San  Carlos.  All  communica- 
tions are  sent  either  by  water  or  over  the  narrow  trails 
of  dried  up  mountain  creek  beds,  such  as  I  described 
before.  The  climbing  in  these  mountain  paths  is  by  no 
means  an  easy  matter  for  the  uninitiated,  as  the  rolling 
pebbles  cause  one  to  slip,  if  not  steadied  by  climbers, 
which,  in  turn,  have  to  be  cut  or  cleared  to  make  prog- 
ress possible.  Every  now  and  then  one  has  to  crawl 
along  over  and  sometimes  even  under  rocks  or  fallen 
trees,  wade  through  wild  mountain  streams  or  cross  a 
primitive  bridge  of  joining  branches,  below  which  a 
chasm  or  cave  of  unknown  depth  may  be  hiding.  Often 
these  places  are  covered  with  fuschias  of  all  kinds,  below 
which  one  sometimes  hears  the  falling  of  the  waters 
from  rock  to  rock.  No  matter  where  I  went  the  sur- 
roundings presented  about  the  same  picturesque  char- 
acter, though  scarcely  two  places  were  alike;  the  change 
of  scenery  was  truly  magnificent. 

The  excursions  by  water  were  no  less  entertaining 
than  those  by  land,  particularly  those  undertaken  on  the 
brilliant  moonlight  nights,  when  we  rowed  along  the 
grayish  coast  rocks,  from  which  the  bushes  often 
touched  our  boat,  while  the  splashing  of  the  oars  was 
the  only  sound  "^liat  disturbed  the  universal  and  pro- 
found silence  of  the  southern  night. 

During  my  stay  in  Corral  I  had  little  desire  to  enter 
the  habitations  of  men  and  it  is  for  that  very  reason  that 
I  have  learned  very  little  of  either.  The  Chileans,  i.  e., 
the  men,  have  well  shaped  features,  dark  or  black,  thick 
oeards,  curly  hair  and  beautiful  black  eyes,  which  har- 
monize well  with  their  dark  complexion.  The  women, 
on  the  contrary,  are  rather  homely,  almost  all  short  and 
stout,  and  old  matrons  at  thirty.  Even  the  young  girls 
are  not  to  my  taste,  though  it  cannot  be  denied  that 
their  fresh,  round  faces,  their  burning  eyes  and  beau- 
tiful black  hair  are  great  attractions.  I  have  had  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  a  girl  of  slender  build  but  once, 


140  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

though  I  can  say  of  her  without  endangering  my  con- 
science— she  was  pretty.  My  meeting  with  her  in  the 
ruins  of  Mausera  was  of  short  duration  but  nevertlieless 
romantic,  if  not  adventurous. 

The  Indians  are  easily  distinguished  from  the  Chile- 
ans, and  they  are  mostly  to  be  found  among  the  work- 
ingmen.  They  belong  to  the  nation  of  the  Araucans, 
are  of  small  stature,  reddish-brown;  their  faces  are  flat 
and  homely,  and  their  hair  is  straight  and  black,  hang- 
ing disorderly  upon  the  shoulders.  Their  garments  do 
not  differ  much  from  the  others. 

The  houses  in  Corral  are  all  built  of  wood,  except  the 
halls  of  the  fort,  which  are  of  adobe  brick,  but  like 
everj^thing  here— lacking  in  cleanliness.  One  generally 
steps  from  the  street  right  into  the  sitting  room,  which 
in  many  instances  is  only  partly  floored.  AVindows  are 
only  found  in  two  houses,  Asenco's  being  one  of  them. 
Even  the  more  pretentious  ones  have  a  very  plain  selec- 
tion of  furniture  and  rarely  anything  but  tables  and 
chairs;  cupboards,  dressers,  bureaus  and  the  like  are 
nowhere  in  sight.  One-half  of  the  room,  nearest  to  the 
window,  has  a  more  or  less  elegant  carpet,  reserved  for 
the  women,  who  cower  upon  it  all  day  without  the  least 
occupation,  unless  it  be  to  keep  the  fire  going  in  cold 
weather. 

Alongside  of  our  vessel  is  anchored  the  bark  **J6ven 
Julia"  from  Valparaiso,  whose  captain,  Eickmess,  a 
native  of  Hamburg,  visited  us  quite  often.  Whenever 
we  went  on  an  excursion  he  would  go  with  us;  and  the 
remembrance  of  this  kind  old  man  will  not  be  effaced  as 
long  as  I  live. 

Whenever  there  was  an  opportunity  I  inquired  about 
conditions  in  Chile,  and  especially  in  regard  to  foreign 
settlers  and  shall  complete  my  investigation  as  I  go 
along. 

On  Friday,  October  the  17th,  we  received  on  board 
eight  new  passengers  for  Valparaiso,  three  of  whom 
went  in  the  steerage,  the  others  being  cabin  passengers. 
Among  the  latter  was  a  Cliilean  artillery  captain,  a  for- 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  141 

mer  coinmauder  of  Osoiiio,  who,  being  a  state  prisoner, 
was  escorted  on  board  by  soldiers. 

After  a  rest  of  nine  days  in  this  magnificent  harbor, 
we  weighed  anchor  on  Saturday,  the  18th  of  October. 
No  matter  how  destiny  may  shape  my  future  in  Ajner- 
ica,  I  shall  always  cherish  a  happy  remembrance  of 
Corral  and  its  paradisiacal  surroundings. 

We  started  at  nine  o'clock  with  a  light  West-South- 
West  wind  and  passed  Cape  El  Molino  about  half-past 
twelve,  and  were  once  again  in  open  sea.  It  was  our 
good  fortune  to  have  a  brisk  South  wind  which  filled 
our  sails  and  hurried  us  along  the  coast,  which  we  did 
not  lose  sight  of  during  the  entire  day.  Toward  even- 
ing we  observed  the  snow-capped  volcanos  of  Villa  Eica 
and  Osorno. 

Tliere  is  hardly  anything  to  be  told  of  our  journey 
to  Valparaiso,  as  the  mild,  warm  weather  and  the  quiet 
ocean  with  an  agreeable  Southern  breeze  afforded  very 
little  variety;  in  fact,  one  might  almost  as  well  have 
made  this  trip  while  asleep.  On  Wednesday,  the  22d, 
we  reached  the  Bay  of  Valparaiso  about  daybreak.  We 
then  steered  undej-  full  sails  right  into  the  bay,  but  re- 
ceived a  setback  at  nine  o'clock,  when  overtaken  by  a 
complete  calm  which  compelled  us  to  call  for  tow  boats 
as  we  were  still  a  mile  from  the  place  where  anchoring 
seemed  desirable. 

The  weather  was  warm  and  pleasant  and  while  we 
moved  along  at  snail's  pace  one  could  follow  the  magnif- 
icent panorama  presented  to  our  view  which  gradually 
became  more  and  m_ore  distant.  The  center  of  this  splen- 
did scene  was  the  city  of  Valparaiso  itself,  which  is 
built  on  a  terrace;  and  it  appears  the  more  picturesque 
as  the  sky-high,  snow-capped  Andes  form  an  incompara- 
bly beautiful  background. 

We  anchored  about  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  a 
quarter  of  a  German  mile  from  shore,  and  in  the  midst 
of  about  three  hundred  merchant  vessels  and  men-of- 
war,  which  surrounded  us  very  closely. 

At  present  I  am  unable  to  write  much  about  Valpa- 


143  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

raiso  as  I  went  ashore  yesterday,  the  24th,  to  present  my 
letters  of  recommendation,  spending  the  remainder  of, 
my  time  in  writing  letters,  as  the  mail  is  going  out  to- 
morrow and  all  letters  are  to  be  handed  in  today.  They 
will  go  with  the  Eoyal  Mail  Steamer  to  Panama  and 
from  thence  to  Europe.  I  can  see  that  boat  right  close 
by;  the  next  mail  will  go  within  another  month's  time. 

The  main  thing  has  been  accomplished;  you  will  know 
on  receipt  of  this  that  I  have  arrived  here  in  good 
health.  It  will  be  my  lot  and  is  my  determination  (as 
I  am  ready  and  filled  with  courage)  to  meet  in  America 
whatever  the  future  may  have  in  store  for  me.  I  have 
made  many  inquiries  about  San  Francisco,  both  here 
and  in  Valdivia  and  strange  to  say  the  reports  are  very 
contradictory  even  from  people  who  have  come  from 
there  but  a  short  while  ago.  I  have  therefore  decided 
to  investigate  for  myself,  caring  little  for  favorable  or 
contrary  information.  There  is,  unfortunately,  little 
chance  of  continuing  the  voyage  to  San  Francisco  on 
board  of  this  vessel  and  we — i.  e.,  seven  other  passengers 
and  myself— will  have  to  embark  in  a  strange  boat. 
Probably  we  shall  have  to  remain  here  a  few  weeks  and 
if  this  proves  to  be  the  case,  I  shall  write  again  for  the 
next  mail.  Should  we,  however,  get  a  chance  to  set  out 
sooner,  which  would  be  a  surprise  indeed,  then  you  will 
receive  my  next  letter  from  San  Francisco.  Do  not 
therefore  set  your  heart  upon  another  letter  before  four 
months.  You  will  in  all  probability  have  heard  that  San 
Francisco  has  been  visited  by  two  conflagrations,  one 
in  May  and  another  one  in  July,  destroying  a  greater 
part  of  the  city.  I  now  hasten  to  close  this  letter,  as 
the  time  is  growing  rather  short. 

How  much  I  would  have  liked  to  know  that  this  letter 
will  be  in  your  hands  at  the  time  of  your  birthday,  my 
dearest,  most  beloved  mother,  but  this  will  be  an  abso- 
lute impossibility.  I  would  have  been  so  happy  in  giv- 
ing you  this  pleasure,  knowing  that  you  who  love  me 
so  tenderly  and  unceasingly,  would  have  rejoiced  in 
nothing  more  than  in  the  thought  that  your  boy  is  well 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  143 

and  in  good  spirits.  You  will  know  it  a  few  days  later 
and  the  joyous  tidings  which  I  intended  for  your  birth- 
day will  reach  you  by  New  Year's  or  on  the  birthday 
of  my  darling  sister  Mary.  If  the  truthful  assurance 
that  I  am  filled  with  happy  courage  and  confidence  in 
my  future  success  as  well  as  in  possession  of  as  great  a 
mental  and  physical  strength  as  I  ever  enjoyed  or  would 
have  enjoyed  at  home,  can  have  the  guiding  and  sooth- 
ing effect  upon  you  that  it  ought  to  have,  I  will  give  it 
from  the  bottom  of  my  heart. 

Now,  farewell!  All  my  dear  ones  at  home!  I  would 
have  liked  to  add  a  few  words  of  love  and  friendship  to 
many  a  one,  but  it  was  not  possible.  You,  my  dear 
father,  will  find  a  few  words  of  special  nature  in  the 
inclosure. 

It  is  hard  for  me  to  tear  myself  from  this  letter  but— 
it  must— it  must  be!  Good  bye,  all  you  who  love  me 
and  who  think  of  me  in  kindness! 

Good  bye! 
(signed)     Frank  Lecouvreur. 

The  Apenrade  Brig  entcTed  just  after  I  closed  this 
letter;  it  is  the  same  which  we  met  on  July  the  19th.  T 
reopened  the  letter  quickly  to  mention  this.  I  am  unable 
to  send  the  sketch  which  I  promised  you,  as  the  time  is 
too  limited.  Fr.  L.  C. 


Valparaiso  Harbor,  the  12th  of  November,  1851,  on 
board  of  the  Hamburg  Bark  " Victoria,"  Capt.  Meyer. 

My  Dear  Parents:  You  will  have  received  my  last 
letter.  No.  9,  measuring  so-and-so  many  yards,  which  I 
forwarded  by  the  Panama  steamer  on  the  26th  of  Octo- 
ber through  care  of  Bartsch  in  Hamburg,  and  today  I 
seat  myself  again,  pen  in  hand,  in  order  to  spend  the 
last  day  which  I  shall  probably  stay  on  board  of  the 
** Victoria"  by  writing  to  my  dear  ones.  I  see  already 
that  it  will  be  my  greatest  pleasure  here  in  America  to 
chat  with  you. 


144         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

But  befoi'e  I  go  into  details  about  my  sojourn  here,  I 
must  thank  you  most  heartily  for  the  great  pleasure 
which  your  letter  No.  7,  of  July  191h  has  afforded  me.  I 
cried  like  a  child  when  Capt.  Meyer  brought  it  to  me  in 
the  afternoon  of  the  30th  of  October.  Since  then  I  have 
always  carried  it  around  in  my  pocket;  I  read  it  daily, 
at  least  once  until  I  know  it  by  heart. 

It  quiets,  it  pleases  me  greatly  that  you  all  have  kept 
well,  especially  that  the  health  of  my  dear  Mary  is  im- 
proving. May  Providence  grant  that  she  recover  com- 
pletely and  that  I  may  not  be  able  to  recognize  on  my 
return  in  later  years,  in  the  healthy,  robust  ''Madam 
Moritz"  the  pale,  delicate  girl  I  left— my  sister— my 
darling  sister,  she  will  remain  forever!  The  letter,  which 
bore  on  the  outside  a  greeting  from  Louis  Dubois,  Ham- 
burg, August  12th,  I  received  through  Franz  Kallmann, 
to  whom  it  had  been  sent  by  Wachowski  from  Santiago. 
Thus  may  the  delay  be  explained,  as  it  has  made  the 
voyage  from  here  to  the  capital  and  back.  As  you  know, 
we  are  here  since  the  22d  of  October,  during  which  time 
I  have  uninterruptedly  boarded  and  roomed  on  board. 
As  Capt.  Meyer  has  kindly  offered  free  use  of  his  boat 
to  the  passengers,  in  order  to  ferry  us  ashore  and  back 
as  often  as  we  desired  to  make  use  of  it,  I  have  had  little 
chance  of  spending  money,  though  I  quite  often  strolled 
round  on  shore  a  whole  day  at  a  time.  If  we  had  not 
had  the  use  of  the  boat  I  would  probably  have  been  able 
to  take  but  few  trips  ashore,  as  the  ferrying  across  is  a 
veiy  costly  operation;  if  one  has  to  depend  upon  the  lit- 
tle ferry  boats,  which  are  rowing  around  the  harbor 
for  that  purpose;  each  of  such  trips  costs  two  reales 
(^10  Silbergroschen),  back  and  forth,  therefore  more  than 
20  Slbgr.  in  Prussian  money.  All  other  prices  here  are 
in  proportion.  In  the  eating  houses  no  smaller  coin  than 
a  real  is  known.  A  glass  of  ordinary  Chilean  wine,  a 
cup  of  tea,  chocolate  or  coffee,  a  glass  of  cognac-punch, 
yes,  even  a  glass  of  ordinarj'  com  brandy  costs  one  real 
(f)  Sl])gr.).  If  one  wants  to  have  a  somewhat  respectable 
meal,  one  is  compelled  to  pay  at  least  three  reales.    A 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  145 

game  of  billiard  costs  two  reales;  an  hour  of  bowling  iu 
a  fairly  good  alley  means  one  peso  (8  reales)  and  so  on. 
Even  the  ordinary  bread— none  but  wheat  bread  is 
known  here— is  enormously  high,  twelve  little  loaves, 
the  size  of  2  pfennig  (1/20)  biscuits  cost  one  real. 

If  (as  I  wrote  to  you)  Valdivia  has  absolutely  failed 
to  leave  a  foreign  impression  upon  me,  Valparaiso  has 
abundantly  made  up  for  it.  The  city  extends  about  half 
a  German  (V/^  Eng.)  mile  in  a  northerly  direction,  along 
a  deep  bay,  is  crescent  shaped  and  built  upon  the  naiTOW 
beach,  which  is  often  less  than  50  yards  in  width,  lying 
between  the  steep,  majestic  coast  mountains,  the  Cor- 
dilleras, and  the  niveau  of  the  ocean,  partly  in  the  moun- 
tains, so  that,  observed  from  the  bay,  the  whole  looks 
like  a  terrace,  built  along  the  foothills  and  sides  of  the 
mountain  range.  Thus  even  nature  divides  Valparaiso 
into  two  parts:  the  lower  and  the  upper  city:  (1)  the 
city  of  wealth  and  (2)  the  city  of  poverty;  of  extreme 
luxury  and  pomp,  of  wide,  well  paved  streets  with  mag- 
nificent stores  and  residences  and  steep,  crooked,  rocky 
mountain  alleys  between  low,  miserable  huts;  below,  the 
splendid  carriages  and  the  glittering  of  silk  dresses; 
above,  the  climbing  of  half-fed  donkeys  and  mules,  and 
half-naked  women  and  children,  tramping  in  mud.  The 
only  things  which  the  upper  and  lower  Valparaiso  have 
in  common  are  the  mud  during  the  rainy  season,  and 
the  endless  dust  in  summer  time;  innumerable  barking 
dogs,  fleas  of  immense  size  and  bedbugs  during  all 
seasons. 

The  lower  city  is  built  in  Italian  style,  light  but  ele- 
gant. The  liouses  are  mostly  two-story,  built  with  large 
adobe  bricks,  as  more  solid  construction  is  inadvisable 
on  account  of  the  many  earthquakes,  which  have  left 
their  marks  on  nearly  eveiy  building,  by  large  and  small 
cracks.  Tlie  upper  story  is  generally  provided  with  an 
extensive  balcony,  running  the  full  length  of  the  house 
and  having  elegantly  stained-glass  windows;  and  on  the 
east  side  of  the  city,  where  the  beach  forms  a  beautiful 
valley,  we  find  the  houses  built  like  squares  and  the  in- 
10 


146  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

side  court  converted  into  pretty  little  gardens  wliicli 
look  like  jewel  boxes.  The  streets— this  term  is  only 
applicable  to  the  lower  city— are  partly  paved  with 
stones,  though  the  sidewalks  have  cement  paving,  and 
others  are  badly  or  not  at  all  graded,  as  is  the  only  plaza 
in  Valparaiso.  Only  the  most  important  business  streets 
have  lights. 

When  the  Spaniards  founded  Valparaiso  amidst  green 
mountains,  the  name  "Valley  of  Paradise"  was  prob- 
ably well  chosen,  but  now— it  is  called  thus  inappropri- 
ately. The  surrounding  hills  at  present  merely  show 
naked,  red  rocks,  covered  here  and  there  with  desert 
weeds,  intermixed  with  large  cacti,  presenting  an  un- 
usually sad  view,  as  the  eye  can  nowhere  rest  upon  a 
spot  of  agricultural  beauty,  nay,  not  even  a  tree.  Trees 
are  only  to  be  found  in  the  scattered  gardens  of  the  east 
side.  Of  fruit  trees  we  see  mostly  olives,  figs,  peaches 
and  apricots  but  rarely  apple  and  plum  trees.  All  of 
them  bear  already  pretty  large  fruits,  which  are  ripen- 
ing rapidly.  There  are  many  beautiful  summer-houses 
of  roses  and  vines,  together  with  those  of  passion  flow- 
ers and  other  climbers,  which  are  now  in  full  bloom. 
One  can  pick  roses  all  the  year  round,  fresh  from  the 
bushes. 

As  far  as  amusements  are  concerned  one  finds  Val- 
paraiso to  be  an  American  city,  i.  o.,  the  like  is  not 
known  here.  The  first  glance  upon  the  topography  of 
the  place  shows  clearly  that  whoever  goes  about  in  these 
streets  is  not  seeking  pleasure  but  hard  cash.  There- 
fore Valparaiso  has  only  one  theater  and  one  large  pub- 
lic garden  (Apolanco)  where  they  have  concerts  on  Sun- 
days; this  resort,  however,  has  not  nearly  tlie  size  of  the 
''Exchange  Garden"  in  Krmigsberg. 

The  busy  life  in  the  harbor  affords  me  more  pleasure 
than  that  on  shore.  I  therefore  have  remained  most  of 
my  time  of  late  on  board,  in  order  to  watch  the  fun. 
Particularly  beautiful  is  the  sight  on  Sundays  of  the 
many  merchant  and  other  vessels  when  all  masts  carry 
their    gay    flags— English,     Brazilian,    immense   Dutch 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  147 

three-mast  vessels,  small  Chilean  schooners,  Hamburgh 
Peruvian,  Italian,  North  American,  Spanish,  French, 
Bolivian,  Danish,  Swedish,  Ltibeck  and  Prussian  vessels 
are  there  in  gaj^est  mixture.  The  farthest  from  shore 
are  the  warships,  a  North  American,  an  English,  a 
Chilean  and  a  Spanish  Fregatta,  two  Chilean  and  a 
French  gunboat,  all  stationed  here;  besides  these  I  have 
seen  in  port  during  our  stay  a  French  24-gun  man-of- 
war,  an  English  fregatta  with  56  cannon  and  a  steam 
corvette  of  the  same  flag.  The  American  man-of-war  is 
a  magnificent  new  vessel  with  62  guns.  On  board  of  the 
latter  and  of  the  English  boat  are  bands  of  music  which 
delight  us  every  night  with  really  fine  concerts ;  they 
play  mostly  well  known  airs,  European  dances,  among 
which  I  heard  to  my  great  sui^^rise  the  *' Flora  Gallop." 
Tliese  melodies  can  be  heard  far  away  in  the  pure,  calm 
night  air  of  the  quiet  harbor  until  the  thundering  of  the 
batteries  from  the  war  vessels  and  the  returns  from  the 
beach  announce  the  ninth  hour.  Suddenly  everything 
stops,  silence  reigns;  not  a  boat  glides  over  the  waters 
of  the  bay,  v/hich  plainly  shows  the  outlines  of  the  dark, 
silent  ships  resting  upon  its  mirrored,  placid  bosom. 
Only  here  and  there  may  be  seen  a  lonely  light,  which 
throws  its  ray  through  a  narrow  window  of  some  cabin. 
Fairy-like  is  the  appearance  of  the  city  after  dark — a 
sea  of  lights  ascending  in  terraces  and  zigzags  along  the 
dark,  bare  mountains. 

During  our  stay  we  have  had  so  far  two  earthquakes 
and  one  revolution.  The  first  earthquake  was  so  insig- 
nificant that  I  never  noticed  it,  while  I  became  quite 
conscious  of  the  second  one.  It  took  place  on  Sunday, 
October  26th,  at  6 :15  p.  m.  I  was  on  board,  sitting  on  a 
bench  in  the  deck  tent.  The  shock  raised  me  a  few 
inches  from  the  bench  and  its  noise  may  be  likened  to 
the  rattling  of  a  dropping  anchor  chain  of  a  large  ves- 
sel.   Our  ship  actually  trembled  for  several  minutes. 

The  revolution  was  more  serious.  You  will  probably 
have  received  news  of  it  in  Europe  and  I  do  not  doubt 
that  the  details  of  causes  of  the  outbreak  of  October  28th 


148         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

have  been  given  better  than  I  could  if  I  attempted  the 
task.  As  usual,  the  day  was  warm,  bright  and  pleas- 
ant, and  there  was  absolutely  nothing  that  could  forbode 
an  extraordinary  occurrence,  until  the  rumor  gained 
credence  that  insurgents  had  surprised  the  regulars  and 
taken  possession  of  about  one  thousand  guns,  a  few 
light  weapons  and  ammunition.  This  occurred  at  four 
o'clock.  Eegulars  and  militia  were  at  once  called  in,  and 
the  lively  street  fight  began  at  half  past  four  in  the  lower 
city.  Small  firing  was  commenced  in  all  seriousness  on 
either  side  and  continued  until  six  o'clock,  when  the 
"crusaderos"*  had  to  vacate  the  barracks  which  they  had 
previously  taken  and  they  slowly  retired  into  their  caves 
and  hiding-places  of  the  upper-town.  The  fight  grew 
now  very  serious  as  larger  fire-arms  had  to  be  put  into 
use  on  either  side,  which,  however,  enabled  the  regulars 
to  gain  but  little  territory.  Meanwhile  it  became  evident 
that  the  ' '  crusaderos ' '  had  few  or  no  leaders,  as  they  re- 
tired slowly  toward  the  fortress  which  protects  the  har- 
bor-entrance, thereby  coming,  about  eight  o'clock,  within 
reach  of  the  big  guns,  which  caused  them  to  disband  rap- 
idly. 

The  men-of-war  remained  absolutely  quiet,  only  send- 
ing a  few  boats  full  of  armed  men  ashore  for  the  protec- 
tion of  their  respective  consulates.  About  five  o'clock 
the  English  man-of-war  got  up  steam,  and  weighed  one 
of  its  anchors  and  the  other  English  vessel  towed  in  or- 
der to  turn  its  batteries  to  face  the  city.  Lanterns  ap- 
peared in  the  evening  along  the  deck-side,  where  the  can- 
non stood.  The  night  passed  quietly  with  the  exception 
of  the  plundering  of  a  small  arsenal  on  the  east-side  of 
the  city. 

My  private  opinion  is,  that  peace  will  not  be  of  long 
duration  even  if  La  jMonte  would  be  able  to  defeat  the 
"crusaderos"  completely,  which,  according  to  some,  is 
already  an  accomplished  fact.  The  hatred  of  the  lower 
classes  is  too  great. 


*"Los  Crusados,"  followers  of  Cruces,  the  rebel  candidate  for 
President. 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  -  149 

Sin«e  we  are  at  anchor  in  this  harbor,  already  three 
vessels  with  state-prisoners  have  left  for  the  Strait  of 
Magellan,  where  Chile  possesses  a  colony  for  criminals, 
called  ''Fort  Famine,"  and  the  rumor  has  gained  cre- 
dence that  the  insurgent-prisoners,  who  are  mostly  sen- 
tenced to  five  or  ten  years  of  deportation,  have  simply 
been  shot  as  soon  as  the  vessel  reached  high  seas.  Neither 
do  I  consider  this  charge  unreasonable,  as  I  have  been 
an  involuntary  witness  of  a  transport,  of  eight  corpses, 
which  fishermen  found  last  Monday  (day  Ijefore  yester- 
day) in  the  Bay  not  far  from  shore,  all  with  stones,  at- 
tached to  the  neck  by  ropes.  These  were  recognized  as 
members  of  the  band  of  insiiirgents  who  had  evidently 
been  drowned  to  make  short  process  with  the  prisoners. 

Such  deeds  are  enough  to  arouse  the  cooler  blooded: 
how  much  more  the  hot-headed  Chilean.  If,  however, 
the  excitement  were  only  headed  against  La  Monte  and 
the  ruling  party,  the  foreigners  could  watch  the  whole 
matter  quietly,  but  that  is  not  the  case.  The  lower  classes 
hate  the  English  and  the  Germans  unto  death,  and  I  am 
convinced  that  they  are  only  awaiting  an  opportunity  in 
order  to  give  vent  to  their  hatred.  It  has  com©  to  the 
point  that  no  foreigner  dares  to  go  after  dark  to  the  up- 
per-town, except  in  company  and  well  armed;  even  the 
less  frequented  streets  of  the  lower-town  are  not  consid- 
ered safe.  This  state  of  affairs  cannot  possibly  last  long 
and,  until  complete  order  will  have  been  restored,  I  shall 
advise  nobody  to  emigrate  to  Chile,  particularly  if  it  be 
his  intention  to  settle  in  the  interior.  Matters  will  un- 
doubtedly be  carried  to  a  very  dangerous  point.  The 
hatred  against  the  English  (and  the  natives  seem  unable 
to  distinguish  between  English  and  Germans)  has  been 
fanned  anew  by  a  very  queer  incident.  A  few  weeks  ago 
it  ©ccurred  that  a  partisan  of  Cruces  of  Coquimbo  took 
possession  of  a  small  steamer,  belonging  to  La  Monte. 
As  the  latter  could  not  possibly  get  hold  of  it  again,  he  de- 
clared it  outlawed.  The  English  frigate  ''Thesis"  hap- 
pened to  be  stationed  in  Coquimbo  and  undertook  to  profit 
by  the  announcement  by  forcibly  taking  possession  of 


150  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  steamer,  and  after  forcibly  taking  it  from  the  *'Cru- 
eists"  they,  the  English,  brought  it  hither  to  Valparaiso 
mider  protection  of  the  English  flag  and  cannon. 

Under  existing  circumstances  there  is  no  possibility  of 
obtaining  employment  here  in  the  near  future,  as  busi- 
ness and  traffic  in  general  are  as  dull  as  we  experienced 
them  at  home  in  the  year  1848.  I  shall  therefore  go  to 
San  Francisco,  contenting  myself  for  a  while  with  steer- 
age-meals and  tea,  quietly  awaiting  what  the  future  may 
have  in  store  for  me.  It  is  true  that  one  does  not  hear 
California  affairs  well  spoken  of,  but  almost  every  Ger- 
man here  who  has  spent  more  or  less  time  in  San  Fran- 
cisco assures  me  from  his  own  observation  that  perse- 
verance, thrift  and  luck  will  still  enable  one  to  lay  some- 
thing aside.  The  circumstances  in  which  my  informants 
are  living  bear  witness  to  the  truth  of  these  assertions. 
Not  one  of  them  has  returned  from  there  empty-handed 
and  many  of  them  did  not  hesitate  to  say  that  they  had 
wasted  time  and  spent  much  money  foolishly. 

Thus  I  ask  you  not  to  believe  for  one  moment  that  I 
have  lost  my  courage;  on  the  contrary,  I  feel  quite  well, 
and  ready  to  bear  all  the  burdens  of  a  life  of  work,  as  I 
have  it  undoubtedly  before  me.  More  than  ever  before  do 
I  understand  the  value  of  health  and  work;  as  I  re- 
gained possession  of  the  former  after  waiting  a  long,  long 
time  and  have  missed  the  latter  for  nearly  half  a  year. 
Do  not  worry;  I  shall  make  my  way.  America  is  a  coun- 
try after  my  taste. 

The  *' Aurora,"  on  board  of  which  I  shall  continue  my 
voyage,  is  a  small,  low,  black  brig,  which  goes  under  the 
flag  of  Hamburg.  With  the  exception  of  the  meals,  to 
which  I  become  quite  accustomed,  we  shall  make  a.  change 
for  the  better,  which  will  be  specially  true  of  the  quarters 
on  the  "Aurora"  as  compared  with  those  of  the  Victoria. 
The  Aurora  has  no  steerage  and  we  shall  therefore  be 
lodged  in  one  of  the  large  and  cosy  quarters  on  deck, 
where  the  accommodations  will  be  just  as  elegant  and 
comfortable  and  even  cooler  and  more  airy  than  the  cab- 
ins. 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  151 

It  has  cost  us  quite  a  fight  to  manage  the  continuance 
of  our  voyage  on  the '*  Aurora. "  Poppe,  the  agent  of 
Godefroy  (Hamburg)  had  flatly  refused  me  the  priviJege 
of  sailing  with  this  vessel  and  declared  in  an  insolent 
manner  that  he  would  ship  us  when  and  in  whatever 
class  of  vessel  he  might  see  fit;  and  that  we  were  not  to 
have  any  say  in  the  matter.  That  was  a  little  too  much 
for  me,  moreover,  as  I  had  found  out  that  it  was  his  inten- 
tion to  place  us  on  board  of  a  small  Chilean  vessel,  which 
was  to  go  to  San  Francisco  at  the  beginning  of  Decem- 
ber; it  carries  steerage  passengers  and  is  said  to  have 
engaged  already  eighty  berths.  I  then  gave  Poppe  a 
piece  of  my  mind  and  complained  at  once  to  Hallmann 
(the  Consul  of  Bremen,  to  whom  Oswald  had  recommend- 
ed me),  to  Uhde  and  Hiinecken  (the  Hamburg  Consul, 
upon  Bartsch's  suggestion),  and  to  the  Prussian  Consul. 
This  caused  some  noise,  which  evidently  scared  Poppe  to 
some  extent,  as  I  received  the  announcement  of  our  pas- 
sage on  the  *' Aurora"  two  days  later.  I  now  hasten  to 
the  close  of  my  letter  by  giving  you  an  idea  of  the 
weather  which  we  found  in  sailing  around  the  Cape.  We 
received  news  from  Terra  del  Fuego  since  we  came  here 
and  the  report  refers  to  several  vessels  which  we  met 
there  in  September  last,  and  is  rather  sad.  An  English 
three-master  and  a  bark  are  in  San  Carlos,  the  former 
minus  masts  and  leaking,  and  the  latter  without  sails  and 
fore-mast.  A  Danish  bark  is  at  anchor  in  Ancud  on  ao- 
count  of  damage  on  palisades  and  rigging;  both  ports 
mentioned  are  on  the  Chiloe  islands.  A  large  Dutch  ves- 
sel is  in  dock  at  Corral  on  account  of  severe  leakage  and 
loss  of  bowsprit,  boats  and  rigging.  In  Coquimbo  and 
Copiapo  are  likewise  ships  awaiting  repairs,  which  have 
suffered  considerably.  Nearly  all  ships  which  arrived 
later  than  we  in  Valparaiso  have  suffered  more  or  less 
damage,  with  the  single  exception  of  the  Hamburg  brig 
"Sarah,"  which  passed  the  Cape  at  the  beginning  of  Oc- 
tober with  good  weather  in  three  days.  The  brig  of 
*'Apenrade"  has  not  yet  arrived.  It  was  owing  to  a  mis- 
understanding on  my  part  that  I  announced  her  arrival 


152         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

in  my  last  letter;  it  is  said  tliat  she  has  lost  bowsprit,  fore- 
mast, etc.,  and  is  now  in  Copiapo. 

Good  bye!  Do  not  woriy  about  me.  It  is  unneoessai'y 
to  tell  you  that  I  send  many,  many  hearty  greetings  to  all 
my  loved  ones.  All  who  love  me  will  forever  and  ever  be 
dear  to  me! 

The  enclosure  is  for  you,  dear  Father.  As  this  letter 
will  only  leave  on  the  26th,  I  shall  keep  it  until  the  last 
moment  in  order  to  be  able  to  add  a  P.  S.  in  case  some- 
thing of  interest  should  turn  up,  and  to  let  you  know  when 
we  shall  be  ready  to  sail.  The  promised  sketch  is  en- 
closed. 

With  sincere  love. 
Your 

(Signed)  FRANZ  LECOUVEEUR. 

P.  S.— On  board  of  the  Hamburg  Brig  ''Aurora,"  Capt. 
Mildenstein. 

Port  Valparaiso,  November  15th,  1851. 

Since  the  transfer  of  our  baggage  on  the  12th  inst.  we 
lived  partly  on  the  "Aurora,"  partly  on  the  "Victoria." 
Beginning  with  to-day  we  are  completely  installed  on  the 
"Aurora."  The  vessel  is  heavy  laden  according  to  Amer- 
ican ideas,  but  1  hope  that  we  may  have  a  quick  voyage, 
as  the  " Aurora '^is  said  to  be  an  unusually  fleet  sail-boat; 
we  also  expect  to  have  good  winds.  We  are  to  take  some 
more  freight  to-day  and  set  sail  to-morrow— Sunday. 
Franz  Kallmann  has  given  me  two  letters  of  recommenda- 
tion, one  to  Wm.  Meyer  &  Co.  and  the  other  to  HejTnann 
Fingshom  &  Co.,  San  Francisco.  Uhde  and  Htinecken 
likewise  promised  me  one,  which  I  hope  to  receive  to-day. 

There  will  be  several  fellow-passengers,  outside  of  my 
seven  acquaintances  from  the  "Victoria,"  and  a  lady 
passenger,  Mrs.  Mutzenbecher,  from  Hamburg;  some  of 
the  former  will  occupy  cabins  and  some  deck-quarters. 
Up  to  this  hour  I  have  seen  none  of  them.  There  are  said 
to  be  two  Chilean  seSoras,  mother  and  daughter,  likewise 
an  American  ^Yankee)  and  wife.  I  am  glad  of  that,  as  I 
shall  thereby  have  a  «hance  to  perfect  my  knowledge  of 


THE  OCEAN  VOYAGE  153 

English  and  Spanish.  The  latter  language  is  not  hard, 
neither  the  grammar  nor  the  vocabulary,  and  I  hope  to 
master  it  fairly  well  by  the  time  we  reach  San  Francisco. 

It  will  be  necessary  to  draw  the  enclosed  sketch  upon 
a  card.  I  did  it,  too,  and  was  enabled  to  get  a  real  and 
correct  view  of  our  voyage.  By  it  you  will  see  our  route 
has  been  very  crooked.  Our  course  has  been  very  eccentric. 
Our  trip  around  the  Cape  looks  almost  like  a  chess-puzzle. 
If  you  desire  to  get  a  sailor's  view  of  the  sketch,  you  will 
have  to  mark  i^pon  the  map  every  point  mentioned  and 
then  join  these  points  by  straight  lines.  I  hope  that  this 
letter  may  reach  you  by  the  middle  of  January  of  the 
coming  year  (1852),  perhaps  even  before  grandfather's 
birthday,  whom  it  may  find  in  the  old,  happy  frame  of 
mind  and  the  old  indestructible  health.  However,  I  am 
somewhat  worried  as  to  the  fate  of  this  letter,  as  it  will 
have  to  remain  here  till  the  26th  inst.  I  shall  take  it  to 
Kallmann  and  shall  use  all  my  fluency  of  speech  so  as  to 
make  sure  that  it  will  not  be  forgotten  when  mail-time 
comes. 

If  everything  goes  well  you  may  expect  my  next  letter 
within  eight  or  ten  weeks,  from  San  Francisco. 

Am  I  to  hope  for  a  letter  from  you  on  my  arrival  there  ? 

Your 

FRANZ. 


LETTER  NO.  VI 


Sunday,  January  11th,  1852. 
On  Board   the  Hamburg  Brigg  "Aurora," 
Capt.  Mildenstein,  36°  11'  N.  Latitude,  126" 
1  AV.  Longitude,  coast  of  California. 

My  Beloved  Ones:— This  is  the  birth-day  anniversary 
of  my  own  dear  sister  Marie,  and  could  it  possibly  be  cel- 
ebrated by  me  more  worthily  than  by  entertaining  you 
all  with  an  account  of  m}^  last  voyage? 

I  presume  that  you  have  come  into  possession  of  my 
letters  dated  the  twenty-sixth  of  October  and  twenty- 
sixth  of  November  a.  p.,  which  I  mailed  by  the  respective 
Panama  steamers  long  ago. 

One  cannot  imagine  anything  more  pleasant  than  my 
trip  from  Valparaiso  hither.  The  weather  favored  us 
so  remarkably  that  my  diary  contains  but  three  records 
of  slight  inclemencies,  whilst  at  the  same  time  it  describes 
the  magnificent  effect  which  the  tropical  sun  had  upon 
the  quiet,  cooling  waters,  which  were  scarcely  interrupt- 
ed by  disturbing  winds.  We  really  could  have  made  the 
trip  in  an  open  boat,  without  running  any  more  risk  to 
our  safety  than  in  one  of  the  largest  vessels.  But  this 
was  not  the  only  agreeable  side  of  our  trip,  which  in  re- 
ality proved  by  far  preferable  to  that  made  on  board  the 
Victoria.  Intentionally  I  avoided  saying  to  you  in  my 
early  letters  that  our  meals  on  the  last  named  vessel  were 
— to  put  it  mildly — abominable.  The  quantity  was  just 
sufficient  to  keep  a  fellow  alive,  particularly  during  the 
last  few  weeks,  when  the  inclemency  of  the  weather  made 
the  want  of  nutritious  food  the  more  perceptible.  Indeed 
the  preparation  of  our  food  corresponded  to  its  miserable 
quality.  Not  a  thimbleful  of  fat  ever  found  its  way  into 
the  meals,  and  the  hard,  old  peas  and  beans,  with  occa- 

154 


ON  BOARD  THE  "AURORA"  155 

sionally  a  grain  of  rice  or  barley,  were  often  swimming 
in  clear  water— half-cooked.  However,  I  never  com- 
plained about  the  miserable  grub,  and  would,  if  it  had 
been  necessary,  have  taken  it  without  grumbling  all  the 
way  to  San  Francisco,  as  I  have  neither  been  a  great 
eater,  nor  a  Lucullus,  at  any  time.  Quantity  and  quality 
never  worry  me,  as,  thanks  to  my  early  training,  my  taste 
has  never  been  spoiled.  With  all  that,  however,  I  could 
not  help  noticing  and  acknowledging  the  great  difference 
in  treatment  there  and  here.  Indeed,  I  do  not  believe 
that  many  ocean  travellers  can  boast  of  such  a  spread  as 
we  have  on  board  the  "Aurora."  Our  dinner  consists  of 
potatoes  and  good  meat  in  abundance ;  and  coffee  and  tea 
are  likewise  of  veiy  good  quality.  Instead  of  bad,  rancid 
butter  for  cooking  purposes,  we  receive  as  much  good 
lard  as  we  care  to  use.  During  the  fore-noon,  at  about 
ten  o'clock,  and  again  at  half-past  two  in  the  aftemoon, 
each  of  us  receives  a  drink  of  cognac  to  stimulate  the  ap- 
petite for  the  regular  meals.  Another  most  agreeable 
feature  is  the  daily  distribution  of  large  loaves  of  wheat 
bread  about  tea-time,  the  product  of  our  good  cook's  in- 
dustry. As  the  flour  has  given  out,  we  receive  now  po- 
tatoes instead,  all  of  which  are  additional  items  which  the 
Captain  is  by  no  means  obliged  by  the  prescribed  bill  of 
fare  to  furnish,  and,  though  seemingly  secondary,  they 
are  greatly  appreciated  on  the  open  sea.  Aside  from 
this,  we  may  drink  as  much  fresh  water  as  we  have  a  mind 
to.  As  I  told  you  in  my  last  letter,  there  is  also  as  marked 
a  difference  in  our  sleeping  accommodations  as  in  the 
food.  If  my  present  frame  of  mind  would  harmonize  bet- 
ter with  the  better  surroundings  and  accommodations,  I 
should  surely  be  spoiled;  but,  as  it  is,  all  these  circum- 
stances, which  in  the  end  are  only  pleasing  to  the  body, 
have  little  effect  upon  my  mind  in  general.  I  mention 
these  external  improvements  only  to  give  you  pleasure, 
knowing  full  well  how  you  will  regard  the  information 
that  I  am  well  cared  for. 

As  expected,  we  left  Valparaiso  on  Sunday,  the  six- 
teenth of  November,  a.  p.    At  about  five  o'clock  in  the 


156  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

morning  we  began  to  weigh  anchor,  while  the  church- 
bells  were  inviting  the  faithful  to  early  mass.  There  are 
many  magnificent  churches  in  all  South-American  cities, 
and  Valparaiso  is  also  well  supplied.  By  half-past  ten  we 
started  on  our  voyage,  passing  the  light-house  half-an- 
hour  later,  with  a  light  South  wind,  while  the  weather 
was  perfectly  beautiful.  A  Chilean  three-master  and  the 
large  Hamburg  "Johannis  Marie"  left  the  harbor  at  the 
same  time.  It  is  truly  astonishing  how  many  Hamburg 
vessels  one  encounters  everywhere:  the  merchant-marine 
of  the  old  Hansa-town  is  evidently  as  well  represented 
on  the  Pacific  as  on  the  Atlantic  ocean.  Toward  one 
o'clock  we  set  lee-sails  and  made  no  change  whatever 
until  the  nineteenth  of  the  month,  when  the  bram  and 
lee-sails  had  to  be  laid  by.  Think  of  it,  nine  days  with- 
out changing  sails!  This  will  serve  you  as  evidence  of 
the  magnificent  weather  and  favorable  winds  which  we 
enjoyed.  Hardly  had  we  gone  to  sea,  however,  when 
someone  discovered  that  the  old  "Aurora"  had  sprung 
a  leak,  which  caused  an  inflow  of  about  fourteen  inches 
of  water  per  watch.  "One  watch,"  in  sailor  parlance, 
means  four  hours  of  duty,  or  one  shift.  Of  course,  we 
passengers  began  to  worry  a  little,  but  the  uneasiness 
was  soon  overcome,  when  we  became  convinced  that  the 
leakage  did  not  increase.  There  was  not,  however,  any 
additional  influx  of  water  near  the  pumps.  Though  the 
danger  from  the  leak  seemed  very  small,  it  nevertheless 
became  the  cause  of  two  very  disagreeable  features,  which 
we  did  not  meet  with  on  board  of  the  "Victoria,"  The 
pumping  tO'  begin  with,  caused  a  barbaric  noise,  which, 
being  repeated  every  two  hours,  day  and  night,  became 
a  constant  bar  to  the  sleep  of  nervously  inclined  passen- 
gers. Much  more  troublesome  than  the  pumping  were, 
in  my  estimation,  the  countless  bed-bugs  and  rats,  which 
latter,  in  particular,  paid  us  nightly  visits  in  our  bunks. 
Imagine  our  joy! 

There  was  consternation  among  our  passengers  when 
it  became  known  shortly  after  leaving  the  port  of  Val- 
paraiso that  we  had  a  goodly  load  of  gun-powder  on 


ON  BOARD  THE  "AURORA"  157 

board;  it  made  some  of  us  feel  rather  uncomfortable. 
This  powder,  in  all  one  hundred  and  sixty-two  kegs  of 
twenty-five  pounds  each,  was  6nough  to  blow  ten  liners 
into  splinters.  It  was  part  of  the  freight  which  I  men- 
tioned in  letter  No.  10,  as  being  ready  for  shipment. 
Though  I  knew  the  nature  of  the  cargo  then  as  well  as  I 
do  today,  I  withheld  the  information  from  you  because 
you  would  otherwise  have  had  powder-dreams  day  and 
night,  and  would,  perhaps,  have  pictured  to  yourselves 
my  fiery  ascension  into  Heaven,  somewhat  after  the  meth- 
od of  the  prophet  Elias,  of  Holy  Writ.  The  worst  of  it 
is  that  these  kegs  of  powder  were  knocked  about  wherev- 
er there  appeared  a  little  space  between  the  other  freight, 
principally  under  the  cabin  and  front-steerage— two 
places  where  light  and  smoking  is  a  constant  menace, 
particularly  on  account  of  the  cracks  and  holes  in  the 
flooring,  through  which  the  kegs  may  be  seen,  and,  in 
places,  even  be  felt.  As  you  may  fancy,  this  challenged,  - 
at  first,  a  good  deal  of  my  courage  and  caused  me  to  think 
of  Bontekoe,  Cook  and  the  Flying  Dutchman,  especially 
when  the  sailors  commenced  to  throw  those  kegs  around 
carelessly,  whenever  they  were  looking  for  tools,  iron, 
chains,  or  whatever  they  happened  to  be  in  immediate 
need  of,  and  that  generally  finds  its  way  into  the  cable- 
hatch.  Even  right  near  the  fire-place  one  can  see  ten  to 
fifteen  barrels  piled  up  at  times,  simply  to  temporarily 
facilitate  the  search  of  something  or  other  in  the  hatch 
below.  Fortunately  for  the  sensitive  looker-on  this  pro- 
verbial carelessness  of  the  tars  has  a  contagious  and 
soothing  effect  upon  the  many,  as  one  hardly  thinks  of 
disastrous  possibilities  after  a  while,  though  we  might 
have  been  sent  on  a  flight  through  space  more  than  once, 
and  without  the  least  warning  or  preparation  for  the 
journey.  There  would  not  have  "Been  as  much  as  a  de- 
tailed report,  though  the  facts,  if  known,  might  have 
caused  more  excitement  than  did  the  appearance  of  the 
Lord  in  the  burning  bush,  in  the  ancient  Hebrew  days. 
It  is  well-known  that  the  apprentices  on  our  men-of-war 
handle  the  powder-kegs,  which  caused  those  boys  to  be 


158  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

nick-named  '  *  powder-monkeys. ' '  In  the  end,  our  old  Ger- 
man proverb:  ''Everything  is  a  matter  of  digestion," 
plays  the  trump  in  this  case  especially. 

The  immense  surface  of  the  South-sea  is  rarely  visited 
by  any  but  so-called  trade-winds,  Monsoons,  which  blow 
with  an  unsuriDassed  evenness  and  always  in  the  same 
direction,  no  matter  what  zone  they  happen  to  strik:e,  only 
being  here  and  there  interrupted  by  playful  coursing 
breezes.  One  is  thus  enabled  to  make  pretty  close  calcu- 
lations as  to  the  probable  duration  of  the  trip  through 
these  regions,  provided  the  ship  is  in  experienced  hands, 
who  know  how  to  utilize  the  Monsoon  realms  to  greatest 
advantage.  We  left  these  regions  on  Wednesday,  the 
nineteenth  of  November,  and  placed  ourselves  therefore 
out  of  reach  of  those  winds,  which,  if  you  recollect,  had 
also  been  our  companions  during  the  trip  from  Valdivia 
to  Valparaiso.  We  soon  e:^perienced  changes  after  bid- 
ding farewell  to  the  Cape^pigeons,  which  had  been  our 
faithful  followers  since  the  time  when  we  passed  the  Rio 
de  la  Plata.  A  strong  Southeast  breeze  made  us  realize 
the  change  very  quickly.  Our  deck  was  covered  with 
gulf-swallows,  little  greyish-brown  birds  about  as  large 
as  our  crows;  they  have  white  breasts  and  black  tails  and 
wing-tips.  Toward  five  o'clock  on  Thursday  afternoon, 
sailing  West  half-North,  we  caught  sight  of  the  islands 
Ombrosio  and  San  Feliz  which  disappeared  from  our 
horizon  again  in  less  than  half  an  hour.  Though  the  day 
happened  to  be  exceedingly  clear  these  islands  appeared 
and  disappeared  lil<^e  small  blue  clouds.  Sunday,  the 
twenty-third,  we  felt  a  mild  East  Monsoon  with  light  rain, 
but  not  until  the  twenty-fifth  could  the  wind  be  utilized, 
as  we  experienced  on  Monday,  the  twenty-fourth,  our 
first  complete  calm.  I  suppose  this  announcement  will 
give  you  the  third  fright  during  this  reading.  I  count 
this  the  third  because  I  fancy  that  the  word  "leak"  has 
caused  the  first  scare  and  the  "powder-shipment"  must 
have  given  you  the  second  fright;  am  I  not  right?  But 
it  is  in  reality  a  much  less  serious  matter  than  people  are 
ordinarily  led  to  believe.    IMany  fables  have  been  told  us 


ON  BOARD  THE  "AURORA"  159 

about  the  dreadful  calms  on  the  Pacific  Ocean.  My  de- 
scription of  the  trade  winds  will  already  have  informed 
you  that  things  are  not  as  bad  as  the  writers  of  sensa- 
tional stories  would  have  you  to  believe.  Prolonged,  and 
actually  death- like  calms  are  only  noticeable  along  the 
coast  and  particularly  between  Callao  (sea-port  of  Lima) 
and  Mazatldn ;  the  islands  between  Panama  and  the  Gal- 
lopagos,  too,  are  frequently  visited  by  these  calms,  which, 
on  occasions,  will  last  for  weeks,  a  good  reason  why  sail- 
ing vessels  are  seldom  seen  in  those  waters;  they  are 
shunned  by  all  who  do  not  have  business  in  those  regions. 
The  afore-mentioned  calm  happened  on  one  of  my  per- 
sonal holidays  and  lasted  till  evening.  A  strong  East 
Monsoon  enabled  us  thereafter  to  continue  our  voyage 
uninterruptedly  until  the  nineteenth  of  December,  which 
means  fully  twenty-four  days,  accompanied  by  the  most 
delightful,  mild  weather.  Though  the  air  is  much  purer 
and  clearer  here  than  under  the  same  degrees  of  tropical 
latitude  in  the  Atlantic,  the  heat  is  not  nearly  as  over- 
powering, and  hardly  ever  exceeds  our  ordinary  sum- 
mer's heat  at  home.  The  reason  for  this  may  be  found  in 
the  fact  that  we  are  sailing  along  the  coast,  which,  being 
very  mountainous,  protects  the  ocean  for  miles  from  the 
approaching  sun  while  on  the  Atlantic  the  unprotected 
vessel  is  exposed  to  the  tropical  heat  from  which  even 
the  coast,  being  West  of  the  traveller,  cannot  possibly 
offer  any  amelioration.  We  seldom  noticed  cloudy  at- 
mosphere until  after  sun-set,  which  latter  was  ordinarily 
beautifully  clear.  And  yet  we  must  not  lose  sight  of  the 
fact  that,  at  the  time  indicated,  the  proper  advent  of  win- 
ter had,  according  to  the  dictates  of  "Grandma's  calen- 
dar," still  three  days  of  grace.  I  hardly  remember  hav- 
ing had  such  marvelously  clear  nights  at  any  time  dur- 
ing the  crossing  of  the  Atlantic,  though  I  find  among  my 
notes  a  similar  mention  on  the  thirty-first  of  July  a.  p. 

Nothing  can  be  compared  to  Nature's  Panorama  in  the 
South-Sea;  no  human  description  can  faithfully  portray 
the  magnificence  of  the  scene  which  the  immense,  pui*ple, 
rayless  fire-ball— the  sun— offers  to  the  naked  eye  as  it 


160  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

slowly  glides  down  tlie  horizon  of  the  nn-measurable 
waters,  the  bottomless  depth  of  which  appears  still  more 
awe-inspiring  on  account  of  the  profound  silence,  which 
everywhere  prevails.  Even  the  fleetest-winged  powers  of 
imagination— such  as  only  truly  poetical  souls  possess— 
cannot  fully  do  justice  to  so  grand,  and  yet  so  melancholy 
a  spectacle.  I  often  felt  the  tears  come  into  my  eyes, 
without  knowing  the  cause.  Even  the  wind  seems  to  pay 
his  last  respects  before  the  majesty  of  the  setting  sun  as 
it  invariably  stops  its  course  for  just  a  few  minutes,  the 
moment  the  last  spark  of  the  immense  fire-disk  has  dis- 
appeared in  the  ocean.  This  unusually  clear  sun-set,  how- 
ever, is  not  the  only  proof  of  the  extraordinary  transpar- 
ency of  the  air  in  these  regions,  for  the  circumstance 
which  enables  the  naked  eye  to  observe  the  moon  along- 
side of  the  noon-day  sun,  is  assuredly  another  not  less  to 
be  underrated.  As  the  light  breeze  was  unable  to  ruffle 
the  ocean,  we  seldom  observed  foam-crowned  waves  and, 
had  it  not  been  for  the  occasional  upheaving,  or  swell,  as 
it  rolled  from  the  South,  and  only  disappears  altogether 
as  we  approached  the  Equator,  we  could,  in  reality,  have 
mistaken  the  bottomless  sea  for  a  vast  pond.  The  up- 
heaving I  just  mentioned,  reaches  a  height  of  from  six  to 
eight  feet  and  a  width  of  about  eight  hundred  feet,  while 
it  is  often  several  miles  long,  dimensions  which,  by  far, 
out-measure  the  swells  of  the  Atlantic,  which,  at  the 
time,  surprised  me  greatly.  While  the  South  Sea  appears 
more  imposing  as  regards  the  immensity  of  the  waves, 
it  cannot  compare  with  the  beauties  of  the  Atlantic  as 
far  as  the  coloring  of  the  water  is  concerned.  As  I  have 
mentioned  in  an  earlier  letter,  the  Atlantic  Ocean  has  a 
magnificent  dark  blue  color,  while  the  South  Sea,  though 
clear  as  crystal,  is  of  a  much  paler  and  more  greenish 
hue.  The  brilliancy  of  the  surface  shines  forth  more 
beautifully  in  the  Pacific  than  on  the  other  side  of  the 
American  continent  and  what  has  particularly  attracted 
my  attention  is  a  certain  lightning  in  the  water  which 
often  causes  a  momentary  flash-light  of  bluish  or  reddish 
shade,  covering  at  times  a  space  of  many  feet  in  dimen- 
sion. 


ON  BOARD  THE  "AURORA"  161 

On  the  twentieth  of  December,  we  passed  an  immense 
school  of  fin-tish,  the  whole  surface,  as  far  as  the  «ye 
could  reach,  was  literally  covered  with  them;  again,  now 
and  then  a  shark  or  a  dolphin  would  break  the  monotony, 
but  beyond  that  we  met  no  different  species  from  those  I 
described  as  inhabiting  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  namely:  boni- 
tos,  porpoises,  and  numberless  flying-fish — of  which  we 
kept  one  or  two  dead  ones  on  deck  for  quite  a  while.  Soon 
after  leaving  Valparaiso  we  saw  two  whales  at  a  great 
distance,  but  not  one  has  since  come  within  our  view. 
Birds  have  been  our  constant  companions.  The  faithful 
cape-pigeons  had  been  replaced  by  the  gulf-swallows, 
which,  in  turn,  had  been  succeeded  by  so-called  tropical 
birds,  which  are  now  followed  by  California  wild-geese, 
large,  dark-brown  birds,  in  shape  resembling  the  alba- 
tross, but  much  larger  and  stronger  in  build— probably 
Pelicans.  After  several  fruitless  trials  we  managed  to 
catch  a  few,  one  of  which  measured  no  less  than  eight  feet 
ten  inches  from  tip  to  tip,  and  whose  dark  blue  beak 
proved  to  be  over  five  inches  wide,  while  the  claws  were 
fully  six  inches  in  length. 

Ships  have  been  rather  scarce  on  our  trip,  as  we  have 
met  only  four  so  far,  which  makes  one  feel  rather  lone- 
some on  the  wide,  wide  ocean.  Saturday,  the  twenty- 
ninth  of  November,  we  sighted  a  large  Danish  schooner, 
heavy  laden  and  Soutli-bound;  the  Tuesday  following,  we 
passed  within  two  miles  of  an  empty  full-master,  under 
short  sails,  steering  in  Northeastern  direction.  Seeing 
only  top-sails,  three  (mars,  cleaver  and  lee),  we  con- 
cluded that  this  mysterious  vessel  must  be  a  coursing 
whaler.  I  passed  the  Equator  the  second  time  during 
the  night  of  the  fourteenth-fifteenth  of  December  a.  p. 
The  night  was  clear  and  beautiful,  the  wind  steady  but 
mild,  so  that  we  passed  the  line  with  lee-sails  laid-by. 
And  then  came  Tuesday,  the  sixteenth,  your  ever  remem- 
bered birthday,  beloved  mother,  and  in  chronological 
succession,  my  second  holiday  since  leaving  Valparaiso. 
You  will  be  wondering  how  I  celebrated  it.  Just  like  the 
other  holida}'  during  my  trip;  I  smoked  one  cigar  more 
11 


162  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

than  usual  and  observed  strict  silence  all  day  in  order  to 
enjoy  a  visit — if  only  in  imagination— to  tlie  beloved  ones 
at  home,  and  to  you,  blessed  mother,  in  particular.  About 
sun-rise  I  was  walking  up  and  down  in  the  deck-house, 
with  shirt-sleeves  rolled-up,  a  light  straw-hat,  and  my 
bare  feet  modestly  hidden  in  slippers,  while  the  slowly  ap- 
pearing sun's-rays  glistened  in  the  min^or-like  water.  I 
could  not  help  thinlving  how  you  would  have  enjoyed 
watching  me  through  a  magic  mirror,  if  such  a  thing  were 
possible.  On  such  days,  during  such  moments,  I  feel 
happy  and  contented ;  home  seems  nearer  and  I  fancy  my- 
self present  in  the  circle  of  those  whom  I  love  so  dearly! 
and  among  my  few  true  friends!  Yes,  there  seems  to  be 
an  inner  voice  calling  out  to  me  every  now  and  then: 
"Fear  not!  you  will  be  happy,  happy  in  your  home."  In 
such  moments  I  feel  untold  joy.  But  I  suppose  I  must 
say:  away  with  such  delusions,  the  old  enemy  will  have 
many  a  chance  to  put  stumbling-blocks  in  my  way  when- 
ever he  may  have  a  mind  to  do  so.* 

On  the  nineteenth  of  December  we  had  Eastwind  with 
rain,  which  the  experienced  sailor  regards  as  a  sure  sign 
that  the  trade-winds  will  soon  cease.  The  sea  showed 
heavy  swells  from  the  Northeast,  so  that  the  lee-sails 
were  set  during  the  evening,  which  was,  in  reality,  the 
first  material  change  made  since  we  left  Valparaiso. 
Later  in  the  evening  we  had  brilliant  lightning  in  the 
northeast,  which  made  the  Heavens  appear  as  though 
on  fire,  though  not  the  least  sound  was  heard.  Saturday, 
the  twentieth,  was  the  first  day  with  northern  trade- 
winds,  but,  notwithstanding  the  increasing  severity,  the 
weather  remained  otherwise  unchanged.  Toward  seven 
o'clock  in  the  evening,  top-sails  had  to  be  set,  and  they 
remained  that  way  until  ^fonday,  the  twenty-second,  as 
no  material  change  in  weather  occurred.     That  night, 

*And  yet,  how  true  was  this  presentiment ;  though  many  were 
the  hardships,  which  our  young  traveller  had  to  overcome,  the 
reward  for  his  cvrr  onward  strugr^le  was  attained  at  last.  The 
"Happy  Home,"  for  which  he  lonpcd,  was  to  be  his  in  due  time, 
as  Providence  measures  it. — Translator. 


ON  BOARD  THE  "AURORA"  163 

however,  the  wind  turned  toward  North  and  grew  strong- 
er. The  days  which  followed  this  change  brought  us 
considerable  work  on  board,  as  sails  had  to  be  changed 
back  and  forth  on  account  of  the  variable  winds.  But 
Wednesday,  the  twenty-fourth  of  December,  Christmas 
Eve.,  a  severe  N.  N.  E.  wind  set  in  and  compelled  us  to 
strengthen  the  mars-sails.  The  sea  rose  higli,  but  our  ves- 
sel was  too  well  laden  and  too  well  built  to  be  in  any  way 
greatly  disturbed  by  the  whistling,  whirling  winds;  and 
the  hot  punch  and  pancakes  with  which  our  good  Captain 
treated  us,  in  due  commemoration  of  the  day,  were  so 
well  received  that  we  scarcely  thought  of  our  waterj^ 
road-bed,  but  enjoyed  the  celebration  as  if  we  had  been  on 
shore.  Was  I  happy?  No!  Not  I.  Notwithstanding  the 
general  merriment,  I  could  not  enter  into  the  spirit  of  the 
hour,  and  was  glad  when  everybody  had  retired,  as  it  en- 
abled me  to  spend  an  hour  undisturbed,  promenading  up 
and  down  the  deck,  accompanied  only  by  the  faithful 
friend — my  cigar.  Watching  the  floating  wave-forms 
carry  the  glittering  lights  which  appeared  and  disap- 
peared like  ghostly  jack-o-lanterns  upon  the  black  roar- 
ing sea,  had  such  a  soothing  effect  upon  my  mind  that  I 
sought  the  mattress  sooner  than  I  had  anticipated.  My 
dreams,  however,  did  the  work,  for  they  carried  me  home, 
where  holiday-bells  were  inviting  the  God-fearing  peo- 
ple to  Divine  Service. 

The  weather  during  the  two  Christmas  holidays  was 
as  beautiful  and  warm  as  one  could  possibly  desire.  Even 
the  sea  behaved  well,  with  the  one  exception,  that  a  heavy 
down-pour  which  came  from  the  North,  was  permitted  to 
disturb  our  equanimity  for  a  few  minutes.  One  experi- 
ences these  down-pours  throughout  the  Pacific  from  the 
twelfth  to  the  fifteenth  degree  of  Northern  latitude  to 
Behring-Strait  all  the  year  round,  I  am  told.  Until  the 
last  day  of  the  year  we  sailed  with  good  steady  North- 
Eastem  winds  and  we  had  nice,  clear  weather  and  nothing 
extraordinary  to  relate.  The  thirty-first — Sylvester  day 
— brought  us  another  complete  calm,  while  the  air  was 
rather  sultry.    We  amused  ourselves  most  of  the  day  by 


iGi         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

fishing  for  socalled  " boatsmen. "  These  little  animals 
resemble  the  Nautilus;  they  have  an  oval  flat  body,  gelat- 
inous in  substance,  and  are  more  than  two  inches  in 
diameter;  they  carry  what  appears  at  a  distance  to  be  a 
sail,  transparent  like  glass  and  shaped  like  the  wing  of  a 
butterfly.  This  sail,  their  only  means  of  locomotion,  is 
placed  exactly  like  the  yard-sail  of  a  ship  and  indeed 
these  strange  mollusks  will  never  be  found  heading  the 
wind,  but  always  gliding  alongside.  We  have  seen  these 
animals  at  times  in  enormous  numbers,  almost  covering 
the  surface  of  the  sea  as  far  as  the  naked  eye  could  reach. 
Birds  of  prey  and  fish  do  not  seem  to  harm  them,  for  they 
are  protected  by  a  poisonous,  slimy  substance,  the  very 
touch  of  which  will  cause  a  painful  swelling  of  the  fingers. 

About  noon,  we  had  a  light  breeze  from  the  South-South- 
East,  which  disappeared  with  the  sun,  and  a  deathlike 
calm  prevailed  throughout  the  night.  The /air  became 
as  quiet  as  the  breath  of  a  sleeping  child.  It  was  my 
"Sylvester  night,"  during  which  I  could  give  audience 
to  my  thoughts  till  three  o'clock  in  the  moraing  without 
being  disturbed.  Head  and  heart  ran  the  race,  now  tak- 
ing past,  now  future  subjects,  for  their  temporary  med- 
itation. Meanwhile  I  found  delightful  and  yet  cynical 
pleasure,  when  a  breath  of  reasoning  would  blow  to  ashes 
the  fraiJ,  yet  beautiful  air-castles  which  the  heart  and  an 
imaginative  mind  had  luxuriously  erected  in  the  sandy 
desert  of  an  uncertain  future.  However,  they  generally 
were  quickly  rebuilt  and  joyfully  accepted  by  their  san- 
guine architects,  while  old  reason  planned  another  dis- 
aster for  them.  Thus  it  went  on  and  would  have  gone 
on  indefinitely  had  not  all  three  grown  sleepy  in  the  long- 
vigil.  But  no  sooner  had  I  closed  my  eyes  than  I  com- 
menced dreaming  of  Home.  Bear,  joyous  pictures  pass 
in  review,  and  again  I  recognized  the  play  of  my  evening- 
companions,  those  merry  goblins,  but  especially  the  un- 
avoidable, un-tiring  teaser,  my  own  heart. 

Beginning  with  the  first  of  this  month  we  have  had 
quite  a  change  of  wind,  at  times  very  brisk  Southw^est 
or  Southeast  breezes,  which  continued  till  the  fourth,  and 


ON  BOARD  THE  "AURORA"  165 

caused  the  weather  to  be  at  times  bright;  at  other  times 
cool  and  cloudy.  On  Saturday,  the  third,  we  passed  the 
American  steamer,  "Constitution,"  within  speaking  dis- 
tance. She  was  sailing  Westward,  coming  from  San  Fran- 
cisco and  bound  for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  During  the 
night  following  there  happened  a  little  accident  on  board 
our  ship  which  could  easily  have  caused  serious  trouble. 
A  sudden  squall  of  wind  accompanied  by  heavy  rain, 
which  surprised  us  about  midnight,  broke  the  rudder- 
tackle.  Fortunately  the  squall,  which  had  not  come  very 
forcibly  upon  us,  grew  slowly  weaker,  or  we  othei-wise 
might  have  lost  several  sails  and  masts,  owing  to  the  cir- 
cumstances which  made  it  impossible  to  handle  the  rud- 
der until  the  damage  could  be  repaired.  A^ou  may  be  sure 
that  we  spent  a  very  anxious  hour  of  uncertainty.  Sun- 
day, the  fourth,  brought  us  another  calm,  which  lasted 
from  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  until  noon  of  the 
Wednesday  following,  when  a  light  breeze  arose  from  the 
Northwest.  During  all  this  time  the  air  was  warm;  we 
drifted  along,  while  everything  around  us  remained  in 
death-like  silence,  which  was  only  interrupted  by  an  oc- 
casional breath  of  air  from  the  South  or  Southeast,  hardly 
causing  any  motion  of  our  ship.  The  sixth  of  January,  at 
about  nine  p.  m.,  we  observed  a  complete  eclii^se  of  the 
moon,  which  was  made  very  clear  by  the  cloudless  sky. 
The  night  was  so  mild  that  I  patroled  the  deck  in  shirt- 
sleeves. Pretty  good  for  January^  is  it  not?  As  before 
mentioned,  we  enjoyed  a  delightful  Northwest  breeze 
during  the  afternoon  of  the  seventh  and  had  already  made 
up  our  minds  that  we  were  soon  to  greet  the  Northwest- 
em  trade  wind,  but  fancy  our  dismay,  as  it  turned  North- 
northwest;  and  when  evening  came  we  found  ourselves 
under  a  strong  North  breeze.  The  air  grew  rough  and 
decidedly  unpleasant  and  a  real  cold  fog  limited  our  view 
considerably  so  that  we  were  almost  unable  to  look  ahead 
more  than  shipslength.  To  our  great  delight  we  expe- 
rienced another,  more  favorable  change  tlie  following 
evening,  even  though  it  was  but  another  calm.  A¥e  have 
since  then  more  or  less  warm  weather  with  light  South 


166  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

West  winds  and  calms.  Tlie  day  before  yesterday  we  no- 
ticed during  the  afternoon  several  sharks  in  our  wal<:e 
and  within  an  hour's  time,  we  had  succeeded  in  catching- 
no  less  than  three  of  them,  two  of  which  were  about  four 
feet  in  length,  while  one  measured  fully  seamen  feet.  They 
were  of  the  less  dangerous  kind,  so-called,  blue-sharks. 
Though  these  are  fully  as  gTeedy  as  their  relatives,  the 
ground  and  shuffle-sharks,  they  are  much  lazier  and  dis- 
like fast  swimming;  though  they  are  well  able  to  move 
slowl}',  a  good  swimmer  can  easily  out-do  them,  pro- 
vided, he  has  no  more  than  one  at  his  heels.  One  of  the 
little  fellows  was  fried  for  supper.  The  taste  is  somewhat 
similar  to  that  of  tlie  laddock  (shellfish),  though  one 
cannot  eat  as  much  of  it,  and  he  must  be  very  careful  in 
partaking  of  fish  at  sea,  I  am  told,  on  account  of  the  seri- 
ous stomach  troubles  and  vomiting  which  generally  fol- 
low, no  matter  what  kind  of  fish  he  indulges  in.  This 
forenoon  we  had  another  calm  and  were  enveloped  in  a 
heavy  fog  which  reminded  me  of  the  familiar  Baltic  sum- 
mer fogs.  Since  noon  the  air  has  cleared  considerably 
and  at  present  we  enjoy  a  light  Northern  breeze,  whicli 
sends  us  slowly  toward  our  destination.  I  am  in  the  best 
of  hopes  that  my  travels  may  terminate  in  a  few  days, 
and  dare  say  that,  considering  all,  it  has  been  a  lucky  voy- 
age, of  which  the  last  part  has  jTroved  particularly  agree- 
able, though  as  a  whole  ours  has  not  been  a  very  fast 
trip.  More  from  San  Francisco.  Good  bye  for  the  pres- 
ent. Your 

FKANZ. 


Note  by  Translator. — The  reader  will  probably  remember  that 
young-  Mr.  Lecouvreur  mentioned  in  one  of  his  former  letters  the 
enclosure  of  an  exact  nautical  record,  covering  the  voyage  to 
Valparaiso.  Whether  this  document  was  lost  or  mislaid,  the 
translator  is  unable  to  say,  and  he  has  had  to  content  himself  with 
a  reproduction  of  a  few  notes,  found  in  one  of  the  neatly-kept 
diaries  which,  like  everything  else  that  the  noble  pioneer  under- 
took, are  a  lasting  proof  of  his  uncommon  exactness,  as  well  as 
an  enduring  record  of  a  useful  life.  Here  is  a  transcription  of 
the  notes  found : 


NAUTICAL   REPORT  167 

Days 

Left  Konigsberg,  Baltic  Sea,  April  25-6 2 

Stettin,  Sunday,  April  27th i 

Berlin,  April  28-9 2 

Berlin-Hamburg,    April    30th i 

Hamburg  from  May  ist  to  June  ist 32 

Altogether    38 

On  board  of  the  "Victoria" — 

Hamburg  Harbor,  June  24  to  4th 3 

On  the  River  Elbe,  June   5th  to   nth 7 

In  the  North  Sea,  June  12th  to  17th 6 

In  the  Canal,  June  i8th  to  21st 4 

In  the  Bay  of  Biscaya,  June  22d  to  26th 5 

63 

In  the  Atlantic  from  June  27th  to  Wednesday,  Sept.  17th, 

1851    .' 83 

In  the  South  Sea  from  Sept.  i8th  to  Oct  8th. 20 

In  the  Harbor  of  Corral,  Chile,  Oct.  9-1 8th 10 

From  Corral  to  Valparaiso  Oct.  i9-2ist 3 

In  Valparaiso  Harbor,  from  October  22d  to  Nov.  15th .24 

On  board  of  the  "Aurora" — 

From  Valparaiso  to  San  Francisco,  Sunday,  Nov.  i6th  to 

Thursday,    Jan.    15th,    1852 60 

According  to  which  record  the  whole  trip  from  Konigsberg,  East 
Prussia  to  San  Francisco,  California,  was  made  in  tzvo  hundred 
and  sixty-three  days. 

At  the  end  of  the  letter,  dated  January  the  nth,  I  find  the  fol- 
lowing nautical  record,  covering  the  trip  from  Valparaiso  to 
California,  lacking  but  a  few  days,  to  make  it  complete ;  the  next 
letter,  however,  contains  the  detailed  description  of  that  missing 
period.  The  existence  of  a  record  covering  the  second  half  of 
his  trip,  leaves  no  doubt  that  the  methodical  author  had  previously 
drawn  up  the  now  missing  document.  But  let  us  peruse,  what  we 
have  before  us : 

Nautical  Record  of  the  trip  made  on  board  of  the  Hamburg 
Brigg  "Aurora,"  Capt.  Mildenstein,  from  A^alparaiso,  Chile,  to 
San  Francisco,  California,  November  i8si  to  Januarv,  1852,  A.  D. 
185 1. 

Nov.  16 — Leave  Harbor  of  Valparaiso  at  eleven  A.  M.  Beau- 
tiful weather  and  light  south  wind  prevailing. 

Nov.  17 — South  wind,  mild,  little  cloudy. 

Nov.  18—75°  4'  W.  L.  28°  33'  Lat.  Fresh  south  wind.  Good 
weather. 


16S  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Nov.  19 — South  wind,  fine  weather. 

Nov.  20 — At  5  P.  M.  Ambrosio  and  Felix  isles,  to  the  right, 
southward  at  about  five  miles  distant.  Wind  S.  E. — fine. 

Nov.  21 — Very  light  southeast,  nice  weather. 

Nov.  22—84°  II'  W.  L.  22°  S7'  Lat.— Continued  light  S.  E. 

Nov.  23 — Light  east  wind,  cool,  rain}-. 

Nov.  24 — 87°  43'  W.  L.  22°  34'  Lat.     Calm,  warm  but  moist. 

Nov.  2S — Very  light  E.  S.  E.,  fine  weather. 

Nov.  26—91°  26'  W.  L.  20°  43'  Br.  Wind  E.  S.  E.  Beautiful 
weather. 

Nov.  2"/ — Wind  E.  S.  E.,  fine  weather. 

Nov.  28 — 95°  21'  W.  L.  19°  53'.  Wind  E.  S.  E.,  no  change  in 
weather. 

Nov.  29 — Wind  and  weather  continue. 

Nov.  30 — 98°  i'  W,  L.  17°  32'  Lat.,  no  change. 

Dec.  I — Wind  and  weather  continue. 

Dec.  2 — The  same  again.     101°  9'  W.  L.  14°  40'  Lat.  E.  S.  E. 

Dec.  3 — No  change  in  wind  and  weather. 

Dec.  4—104°  14'  W.  L.  11°  5'  Lat.  Wind  E.  S.  E.,  beautiful 
weather. 

Dec.  5 — Wind  and  weather  continue  without  change. 

Dec.  6 — Again  the  same.     107°  27'    W.  L.  8°  33'  Lat. 

Dec.  7 — No  change. 

Dec.  8 — Again,  no  chance.     110°  19'  W.  L.  5°  11'  Lat. 

Dec.  9 — Wind  E.  S.  E.,  weather  very  warm  and  sultry. 

Dec.  10 — 113°  22'  W.  L.  2°  30'  Lat.  E.  S.  E.  wind  and  fine 
weather. 

Dec.  II — No  change  in  wind,  air  sultry. 

Dec.  12 — 116°  49'  W.  L.  1°  54'  Lat.  E.  S.  E.  wind  and  pleas- 
ant weather. 

Dec.  13 — Very  light  E.  S.  E.,  most  beautiful  weather. 

Dec.  14 — 119°  2'  W.  L.  0°  41'  Lat.  Wind  and  weather  the 
same. 

Dec.  15 — East  wind,  most  delightful  weather. 

Dec.  16 — 120°  23'  W.  L.  2°  26'  Lat.,  E.  S.  E.  wind;  fresh  and 
fair. 

Dec.  17 — Wind  and  weather  continue  the  same. 

Dec.  18—121°  30'  W.  L.  5°  19'  N.  Lat.,  E.  S.  E.  very  light. 

Dec.  19 — East  wind  with  rain ;  warm. 

Dec.  20—124°  4'  W.  L.  8°  8'  N.  Lat.  east  to  N.  N.  E. ;  air 
sultry. 

Dec.  21 — N.  E.  wind:  agreeable  weather. 

Dec.  22—125°  58'  W.  L.  12°  II'  N.  Lat.  N.  E.  wind,  breezy; 
fine. 

Dec.  23 — N.  N.  E.  wind;  stormv,  but  beautiful. 

Dec.  24— Continued.    128°  8'  W.  L.  16°  6'  N.  Lat. 

Pec.  25 — Same  wind  and  weather, 


NAUTICAL    REPORT  169 

Dec.  26—132°  o'  W.  L.   18°   54'  N.  Lat.  N.  E.  wind;  fine 
weather. 

Dec.  2^ — N.  E.  wind,  beautiful  but  cool. 

Dec,  28 — 133°   II'  W.  L.  22°  33'  N.  Lat.  N.  E.  wind,  nice 
weather. 

Dec.  29 — Light  N.  E.  nice,  cool  weather. 

Dec.  30 — 134°  37'  W.  L.  25°  34'  N.  Lat.,  calm,  fine  weather. 

Dec.  31 — Wind  south  and  S.  S.  east,  light,  warm  air. 
1852. 

Jan.  1—135°  6'  W.  L.  27°  38'  N.  Lat.    Light  S.  E.  to  S.,  beau- 
tiful. 

Jan.  2 — South  wind,  very  brisk,  beautiful  weather. 

Jan.  3—133°  9'  W.  L.  31°  28'  N.  Lat.  S.  S.  W.,  cool  and 
cloudy. 

Jan.  4—130°  24'  W.  L.  32°  50'  N.  Lat.  S.  and  S.  W.,  cloudy 
with  rain. 

Jan.  5 — Calm.    Weather,  beautiful  and  warm. 

Jan.  6—128°  44'  W.  L.  33°  45'  N.  Lat.     Calm;  fine  weather. 

Jan.  7—128°  10'  W.  L.  33°  5V  N.  Lat.  Calm ;  P.  M.,  north- 
ern breeze. 

Jan.  8—126°  58'  W.  L.  33°  51'  N.  Lat.,  N.  N.  E.  followed  by 
calm ;  cold. 

Jan.  9—127°  II'  W.  L.  34°  4'  N.  Lat.     Calm;  later  S.  W.— 
breezy, 

Jan.  10 — Very  light  S.  W.,  then  calm.     Nice  weather. 

Jan.  II — 126°  i'  W.  L.  36°  11'  N.  Lat.     Light  circling  wind 
from  south  and  west;  air,  pleasant. 


LETTER  NO.  VII 


San  Francisco,  Jan.  29tli,  1852. 

At  last  I  am  at  my  destination  and,  if  I  may  be  per- 
mitted to  judge  from  the  impression  which  the  short  stay 
has  given  me,  I  shall  have  reason  to  congratulate  myself 
upon  the  choice  of  my  second  fatherland. 

But  before  I  enter  into  details  about  San  Francisco — 
details  which  will  make  you  bum  mid-night  oil  to  read — 
I  beg  your  indulgence  for  a  brief  space  while  continuing 
my  last  descrij>tion— with  the  help  of  my  faithful  diary 
— the  thread  of  which  you  followed  to  the  eleventh  day 
of  this  month. 

The  twelfth  brought  various  indications  of  near-by 
land,  such  as  the  dark-green  color  of  the  water,  diving 
ducks  (duckers,  as  the  sailors  commonly  call  them),  gray 
birds  about  the  size  of  our  geese.  There  also  appeared 
floating  alongside  of  our  boat  the  limb  of  a  tree,  covered 
with  leaves,  a  most  convincing  and  welcome  proof  that 
the  days  of  our  journey  were  numbered.  At  about  a  quar- 
ter to  one,  the  same  afternoon,  the  joyous  shout  of  land 
rang  out  from  the  fore  top,  whence  the  high  coast  could 
be  obsei'ved,  both  in  a  Northern  and  Eastern  direction. 
Soon  after  we  commenced  to  notice  the  outlines  with  the 
niiked  eye,  as  they  apy)eared  at  considerable  length  on 
the  Eastern  horizon.  The  sea.  grew  calmer  and  the  air 
wanner.  As  darkness  set  in  we,  of  course,  lost  sight  of 
the  situation.  By  four  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  found 
ourselves  close  to  the  Farallones  Cliffs  and  had  hard  work 
to  keep  the  ship  away  from  them,  in  which  attempt  we 
were  particularly  fortunate,  as  the  moon  shone  brightly 
during  that  beautiful  night.  However,  we  were  com- 
pelled to  reverse  our  course,  and  as  the  wind  chanirod 
considerably  back  jmd  forth  during  the  early  morning, 

170 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  171 

we  had  quite  a  lively  time  on  board.  Tliougli  the  sun- 
rise was  simply  magnificent,  the  wind  blew  severely.  The 
high  coast  of  California  appeared  to  be  but  twelve  miles 
away,  while  the  Farallones  cliffs  were  now  almost  as  far 
distant,  when  looking  from  our  backboard-quarter. 
Though  maneuvering  the  sails  carefully,  we  had  little 
control  of  our  ship  and  by  about  eight  o'clock  found  our- 
selves again  (to  the  dismay  of  every  one),  close  to  the 
largest  of  the  Farallon  Islands.  Just  when  our  troubles 
were  at  their  height  there  appeared  a  San  Francisco 
coasting  pilot-boat  on  the  scene,  which  sent  a  man  on 
board,  who  immediately  ordered  the  changing  of  sails. 
Unfortunately  there  is  a  vast  difference  between  the  Ger- 
man mode  of  rigging  and  the  American  way,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  an  American  mariner  seldom  finds  him- 
self at  home  on  a  German  sailing-vessel.  In  our  particu- 
lar case  the  pilot's  aid  cost  us  a  main  yard  and  endan- 
gered the  lives  of  several  men  of  our  crew.  After  ridding 
ourselves  of  this  undesirable  help,  we  had  the  visit  of  an- 
other coasting-pilot.  We  also  sighted  a  strange  bark  and 
a  brigg,  both  coasting  Eastward. 

At  four  p.  m.  Sea  and  wind  grew  cahner.  Toward 
eleven  o'clock  we  reached  the  Cape  '^de  los  Eeyes";  after- 
:wards  we  coursed  in  short  tacks  near  the  coast.  Our  sails 
were  in  poor  condition,  some  of  the  yards  being  too  short, 
others  as  crooked  as  fiddle-sticks,  which  proved  a  great 
hindrance  in  stemming  the  tide  near  "de  los  Reyes 
Point."  The  air  is  unusually  bright  and  agreeable.  The 
coast  pilot-boat  which  reached  us  this  morning  has  made 
the  trip  from  Boston  around  Cape  Horn  in  one  hundred 
and  four  days;  its  name  is  ''Emily."  Since  the  latter 's 
arrival  we  have  had  two  other  pilots  offer  their  assist- 
ance. The  aforementioned  bark  and  brigg  are  approach- 
ing us  rapidly,  though  yet  beyond  recognition. 

Wednesday,  the  fourteenth  of  January,  1852,  at  nine 
a.  m.  The  wind  turned  N.  E.  last  night,  enabling  us 
thereby  to  sail  along  the  coast;  but  when  we  approached 
the  ''Golden  Gate"  about  ten  o'clock,  ready  to  enter  the 
long-sought    Bay,  an    East-Northeast  storm    broke  out 


172  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

which  spoiled  our  fond  hopes,  notwithstanding  the  en- 
deavor of  onr  brave  men  to  fight  the  difficulties  success- 
fully by  shifting  the  sails  diligently.  You  will  readily 
imagine  onr  thorough  disappointment  when  finding  our- 
selves about  three  o'clock  near  the  ''Punta  del  Afio 
Nuevo" — which  means  about  sixteen  miles  from  shore. 
At  last  the  storm  subsided,  the  air  became  mild,  even 
warm,  and  the  sea  very  quiet.  By  seven  o'clock  we  man- 
aged to  a})proach  the  shore  anew  and  at  present  we  are 
slowly  making  our  way  Northward,  rigged  as  yesterday. 
The  bark  is  now  cruising  some  four  miles  from  us,  while 
the  brigg  has  anchored  at  Cape  "Bonita"  alongside  of  a 
fullmaster.  One  can  likewise  observe  a  threemaster 
cruising  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Farallones,  Poor 
fellows!    May  they  escape  the  danger-mark,  as  we  did. 

At  ten  o'clock  the  bark  had  advanced  sufficiently  for  us 
to  distinguish  the  Hamburg  flag,  and  a  little  later  we 
recognized  the  ''Sophie,"  Captain  Decker,  an  old  ac- 
quaintance from  Valparaiso,  where  she  arrived  coming 
from  Sydney,  three  days  before  we  left  that  port. 

At  high  noon:  Complete  calm  set  in.  The  air  is  de- 
lightfully warm.  The  tliree-master  ''Spray"  from  San 
Francisco  is  now  within  close  calling  distance;  she  like- 
wise has  come  from  Valparaiso,  which  trip  she  made  in 
thirty-five  days.  We  are  now  near  Punta  "Clara."  At 
three  p.  m.  we  have  a  slight  "Western  breeze.  The  "So- 
phie" is  now  within  a  mile  of  us.  A  large  Peruvian  bark 
laden  with  ballast  passed  us  a  little  while  ago.  The  full- 
masted  ship  which  had  anchored  near  Cape  Bonita  has 
set  sail  again;  she  evidently  lost  her  fore-top-mast  and  is 
now  heading  for  the  Bay.  At  seven  p.  m.  We  have  taken 
a  Northern  course  since  three  o'clock;  the  air  is  warm  and 
the  sky  is  cloudless.  By  half-past  five  we  sailed  around 
"Punta  de  los  Lobos  Marines"  (seal  rocks),  passing  the 
Fort  right  after  sun-set.  At  five  minutes  past  six  we  an- 
chored close  to  the  American  Revenue  Cutter  and  just 
outside  of  North  Beach,  in  the  outer  harbor  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

Thursday,  the  fifteenth  of  January,  1852,  at  liigh  noon; 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL        .  173 

We  weighed  anchor  once  more,  about  nine  this  morning, 
and  sailed  slowly  under  light  Westwind  into  the  inner- 
harbor  of  the  Western  Metropolis.  The  weather  is  beau- 
tiful. We  reached  the  California  wharf  at  twelve  and 
anchored  opposite. 

Thus  ended  my  trip  in  Tico  hundred  sixty-five  days, 
five  hours  and  fifty-five  minutes  since  my  departure  from 
Konigsberg,  on  board  of  the  steamer  "Konigsberg,"  Cap- 
tain Lybe. 

Tivo  liundred  twenty -three  days,  eighteen  hours  and 
ten  minutes  since  my  departure  from  Hamburg  in  the 
bark  "Victoria,"  Capt.  Meyer.  Fifty-nine  days,  one  hour 
and  twenty-five  minutes  since  my  departure  from  Valpa- 
raiso in  the  brig  "Aurora,"  Capt.  Mildenstein. 

On  Ameeican  Soil! 

No  sooner  had  we  anchored  than  I  at  once  went  ashore 
to  visit  Boettcher,  who  received  me  very  kindly.  It  was 
from  his  place  that  I  dispatched  my  letter  No.  11  (includ- 
ing strictly  personal  notes),  which  informed  you  in  few 
words  of  my  safe  arrival  and  well-being. 

You  will  now  doubtless  be  exceedingly  curious  as  to  the 
impression  which  San  Francisco  has  made  upon  me;  and 
therefore  a  description  of  the  city  and  its  people  will  be 
in  order.  San  Francisco  is,  to  begin  with,  ah  American 
city.  "Every  third  grade  pupil  can  tell  us  that,"  will 
be  your  impatient  suggestion,  "but  what  is  in  reality 
an  American  city?"*  Let  me  explain,  what  I  mean  by  a. 
typical  American  city. 

The  American  uses  the  very  practical  and  characteris- 
tic expression  "for  a  purpose"  on  nearly  every  occasion, 
so  much  in  fact  that  it  may  almost  be  called  his  life's 
motto:  "Working  for  a  purpose."  He  eats  and  drinks 
for  a  pur]:)ose;  he  works  for  a  purpose;  he  builds  Ms 


*  The  third  grade  of  a  German  grammar  school  corresponds 
with  the  sixth  g^rade  of  an  American  public  school,  as  the  highest 
grade  is  named  the  "Prima." — Tr. 


174  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

house,  his  toTrn,  his  cities  for  a  purpose,  and  San  Fran- 
cisco, above  all  others,  I  judge,  is  built  for  a  pui^^ose, 
through  and  through.  You  will  understand  this  phrase 
better  as  you  read  along.  The  streets  are  straight  and 
wide,  because  crooked,  narrow  lanes  would  not  suit  the 
commercial  purpose;  they  are  all  cut  at  right  angles,  run- 
ning North,  West,  East  and  South — for  a  purpose.  How 
could  a  stranger  possibly  familiarize  himself  quickly  with 
the  location  of  a  place  in  which  he  is  interested  in  so 
large  and  mountainous  a  city,  the  houses  of  which,  par- 
ticularly in  the  outskirts,  resemble  anything  but  a  contin- 
uous line  and  where  the  many  vacant  lots  make  it  almost 
impossible  to  use  numbers  effectively?  You  commence  to 
realize  that  the  founders  and  early  city  fathers  laid  their 
plans  for  a  purpose  and,  moreover,  for  a  good  one.  Hav- 
ing read  so  far  you  will  now  reason  thus:  If  San  Fran- 
cisco has  wide,  straight  streets  and  large  squares,  it  must 
be  a  beautiful  city.  Slowly,  I  pray  you!  Do  not  judge 
too  hastily.  Tliis  is  a  new  country  and  San  Francisco 
is  of  the  latest  birth,  in  what  is  commonly  known  as  the 
''Wild  Western"  region.  Everything  consequently  is 
yet  done  for  a  commercial  purpose,  and  beauty,  so  far, 
counts  for  little.  And  still  one  has  to  admit  San  Fran- 
cisco lias  its  attractions.  Though  the  appearance  of  the 
city,  were  I  to  describe  a  bird's-eye  view  from  one  of  the 
hill  tops  is  not  a  very  symmetrical  one,  nor  does  it  pre- 
sent to  us  the  beautiful  architecture  of  ancient  Greece, 
but  one  finds  therein  a  rare  liveliness  and  an  ever  chang- 
ing aspect.  San  FranciscO'  compares  with  Berlin  as  a 
bright,  rosy-cheeked  maiden  might  be  compared  with  a 
marble  Juno.  No  two  houses  have  a  similar  front ;  not  ten 
are  alike  in  general  architecture.  Each  house  has  its  pe- 
culiarity, indicating  the  taste  and  nationality  of  its  owner 
and  is  built  in  accordance  with  the  requirements  of  the 
respective  material  used.  One  naturall}^  finds  the  strang- 
est contrasts  of  architectural  products,  mostly  imitations 
of  foreign  ideas,  brought  hither  from  every  cK^ilized  and 
uncivilized  nation  of  the  world.  Buildings,  representing 
the  styles  of  Holland,  Australia,  East  India,  Germany, 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  175 

China,  Belgium,  North  America,  England,  France,  Chile, 
Switzerland  and  many  other  countries  stand  peacefully 
alongside  of  each  other.  The  materials  used  differ  as 
much  as  do  the  countries  which  their  styles  represent. 
Most  buildings  are  of  wooden  material,  many  others  of 
brick,  iron,  zinc  and  copper.  Brick  houses  with  metal 
roofs,  iron  doors  and  window  casmgs  are  very  much  the 
style  here  and  those  who  are  able  to  afford  the  great  out- 
lay generally  favor  the  latter,  because  they  offer  better 
resistance  in  case  of  fire  than  any  of  wholly  metal  struc- 
ture, which  have  proven  impracticable  during  great  con- 
flagrations. It  is  said  that  the  intense  heat  of  some  big 
fires  has  softened  the  metal  built  houses  to  such  an  extent 
that  they  became  almost  useless.  There  is  no  way  of 
repairing  such  damage  to  metal  built  houses  as  the  wages 
for  building  mechanics,  no  matter  what  metal  they  work 
in,  are  so  enoraiously  high  that  the  repairs  would  cost 
much  more  than  the  importation  of  a  new  structure  from 
England  or  the  Eastern  States. 

Tlie  streets  which  run  through  this  gay  appearing  map 
of  edifices  are  still  very  hilly,  but  time'  will  change  that 
easily  and  soon  enough.  As  soon  as  the  American  finds 
out  that  hills  do  not  suit  his  purpose,  he  will  find  means 
of  moving  them  without  much  ado.  He  will  not  try  to 
bring  that  about  like  Mohammed,  by  faith,  but  by  ma- 
chines of  the  most  varied  and  unheard-of  construction, 
which,  however,  have  or  seem  to  have  all  one  common 
feature,  that  of  being  very  much  ' '  for  the  purpose. ' '  One 
of  said  machines  is  at  present  working  at  leveling  a  sand 
hill,  about  one  hundred  feet  high,  near  Eincon  point,  the 
Southern  end  of  the  harbor.  This  machine  consists  of  a 
high  pressure  steam  engine,  which  runs  immense  shovels 
into  the  sand,  then  raises  them  and  empties  the  contents 
into  a  cart  of  special  make.  Each  one  of  these  carts  holds 
a  box  two  feet  deep,  ten  long  and  seven  wide.  Two  of 
the  aforementioned  shovels  suffice  to  fill  this  cart,  which 
at  once  rolls  off  on  rails  to  a  certain  point  at  the  harbor, 
where  a  single  man  awaits  its  coming  and  by  touching 
some  simple  mechanical  device,  manages  to  tilt  the  whole 


ire  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

box  over,  Trliereupon,  after  emptying  itself,  it  is  replaced 
as  easily,  after  which  a  single  old  horse  hauls  it  back  to 
the  machine  where  the  performance  is  repeated.  AVhile  I 
pen  these  lines  the  cars  glide  along  the  railroad  tracks, 
crossing  and  running  through  busy  streets,  traversing,  for 
instance,  nearly  a  mile  of  Battery  street,  one  of  the  most 
populated  thoroughfares  of  this  city,  where  thousands  of 
people  and  hundreds  of  freight  wagons,  carts  and  vehicles 
of  all  description  pass  hourly.  AVhat  would  you  say  to 
all  that?  What  would  the  Honorable  City  Council  or  the 
worshipful  Board  of  Police  Commissioners  of  the  grand 
old  city  of  Kimigsberg  say  if  a  private  citizen  should  con- 
ceive the  idea  of  rolling  heavy  freight  cars  in  the  above 
mentioned  manner,  from  the  Haberberger  Church,  for 
instance,  to  the  Green  Bridge?  They  w^ould  surely  be 
amazed  at  the  audacity  of  the  man  who  should  even  pro- 
pose such  a  thing.  But  here!  Why,  the  American  would 
be  very  much  surprised  indeed  at  the  impudence  of  a 
municipal  body  that  would  dare  to  interfere  with  an 
undertaking  which  could  be  proven  to  be  so  eminently  for 
the  purpose  he  had  in  view.  Danger  for  the  passer-by  is 
not  considered  by  the  American,  who  judges  rightly  that 
every  man  should  have  sense  enough  to  keep  his  eyes 
open  and  be  watchful  to  keep  out  of  the  way  of  danger 
of  being  run  over. 

I  explained  to  you  one  method  employed  in  reducing 
the  local  elevations  or  hills,  but  there  is  still  another  by 
which  the  city  is  leveled  and  this  lattei'  is  typically  Amer- 
ican. Tlie  plan  for  the  location  and  building  of  the  city 
of  San  Francisco  as  drawn  by  the  government  presup- 
poses level  ground  and  is  calculated  upon  tilling  up  of  a 
large  portion  of  the  bay.  The  building  squares  or  so- 
called  lots,  are  cut  exactly  square  and  all  of  the  same  size 
and  whosoever  intends  to  build,  is  obliged  by  law  to  keep 
strictly  within  the  1)oundary  of  his  lot.  Whether  he  pro- 
poses to  put  up  a  match  factory  in  a  wooden  shack,  a 
tamale  factory  in  a  tent,  a  cottage  or  a  brick  structure, 
is  nol)ody's  concern  but  his  own.  No  building  restric- 
tions here.     A  goodly  number  of  these  lots  extend  thus 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  17*? 

partly  into  the  water  of  the  bay  and  the  buildei'  has  nec- 
essarily, in  building  on  his  square,  to  use  some  old  vessel 
or  undertake  the  tedious  work  of  filling  up  the  allotted 
spaee;  if  he  is  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  a  real  lot  on 
dry  land,  there  are  ninety-nine  chances  out  of  a  hundred 
that  he  has  to  level  it  one  way  or  the  other.  However, 
this  again  is  left  to  the  pleasure  of  the  owner,  who  may 
build  on  a  hill  or  in  the  valley  if  he  chooses  or  he  may  take 
pains  to  level  it  before  beginning  to  erect  whatsoever  the 
plan  may  call  for.  Thus  it  occurs  here  and  there  that 
they  who  have  built  their  houses  upon  natural  gTound 
find  their  neighbor  digging  twenty  feet  deep  into  the 
elevation  to  place  his  own  house  right  into  that  newly 
dug  hole,  which  is  a  frequent  occurrence  where  the  street 
is  either  planned  or  already  laid  out.  As  the  soil  is  gen- 
erally light  or  pure  sand,  the  neighboring  houses  where 
such  digging  has  occurred  soon  tumble  into  the  hole,  as 
may  be  witnessed  quite  often  nowadays.  In  this  manner 
one  need  not  be  surprised  at  the  rapidity  with  which  the 
leveling  of  the  city  progresses.  In  fact,  the  work  is  done 
much  quicker  than  in  localities  where  the  authorities 
impose  building  restrictions  of  various  kinds — which 
would  cause  many  inconveniences  here  in  America.  I 
have  already  mentioned  that  the  streets  are  wide  and 
straight  but  as  yet  without  stone  pavement.  Only  the 
oldest  and  most  frequented  thoroughfares  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  harbor  show  some  improvement  in 
this  line,  consisting  of  wooden  pavement;  while  all  of 
them  have  broad  wooden  sidewalks  which  in  some  in- 
stances are  being  replaced  by  flag-stones  (usually  slate) 
or  bricks.  Every  house  is  occupied  by  tradesmen  of  some 
kind  and  is  literally  covered  with  advertising  signs  and 
posters.  Though  the  only  ornaments  of  the  buildings, 
these  signs  show  much  originality,  as  it  is  every  man's 
endeavor  to  make  the  letters,  coloring  and  wording  of  his 
advertising  board  as  attractive  to  the  passer-by  as  pos- 
sible. Thus  it  is  that  the  whole  represents  a  typical 
Eococo,  the  reality  of  which  baffles  any  description.  In 
solid  Konigsberg,  I  would  perhaps  be  accused  of  telling 

12 


178  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

"globe  trotters'  yams,"  were  I  to  assure  the  good  people 
that  all  the  signs  and  inscriptions  of  the  whole  French 
street  (Franzosische  Strasse)  would,  in  some  instances, 
not  suffice  to  cover  the  display  of  three  houses  in  Com- 
mercial or  Montgomery  street,  as  they  appear  at  present. 
If  the  streets  and  houses  of  San  Francisco  make  a  strange 
impression  upon  the  European  immigrant,  the  magnifi- 
cent harbor  and  its  gigantic  improvements  fill  him  with 
amazement.  Tlie  wharves  and  docks  are  such  immense 
structures  that  one  can  hardly  find  words  to  describe 
their  extent  and  importance.  These  wharves,  of  which 
there  may  be  ten  or  twelve,  are  seldom  less  than  one  hun- 
dred feet  in  width,  while  the  California  street  wharf, 
Long  wharf.  Pacific,  Broadway  and  Cunningham  wharf, 
which  are  among  the  largest,  measured  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  (one-quarter  of  a  Gennan  mile  in  length).  You 
will  readily  understand  that  it  took  milliards  of  piles, 
beams  and  planks  to  complete  these  structures,  while 
available  means  at  hand  are  often  limited,  as  may  well 
be  imagined,  if  one  considers  the  comparative  newness 
of  the  country,  and,  in  many  respects,  the  primitive  means 
of  communication. 

As  the  people  fill  up  the  waters  along  the  shore  of  the 
bay  in  the  manner  I  have  described,  the  long  piers  grow 
shorter  in  places,  as  the  so-called  water  front  extends  fur- 
ther and  further  into  the  bay.  Wlien  one  considers  that 
the  wage  scale  at  the  time  of  the  construction  of  these 
enormous  wharves  demanded  no  less  than  six  or  eight 
dollars  for  the  common  day  laborer,  while  carpenters,  for 
instance,  received  from  ten  to  twelve  dollars  a  day,  a 
faint  estimate  of  the  original  cost  may  be  obtained.  It 
is  well  indeed  to  marvel  at  the  great  spirit  which  con- 
ceived and  executed  the  plans  for  this  unique  American 
undertaking;  it  fills  one  with  a  degree  of  respect,  which 
no  other  nation  in  the  wide  world  can  command.* 


*And  this  from  a  youth  of  twenty !  What  a  lesson  for  the 
multitudes  of  foreij^^ners  who  land  on  these  shores  and,  having 
found  the  individual  liberty  which  was  denied  them  in  their  own 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  179 

In  strange  contrast  to  these  just  described  public  struc- 
tures are  others,  the  sight  of  which  transports  in  imagina- 
tion the  newcomer  to  different  parts  of  the  world.  Fof 
instance,  that  part  of  San  Francisco  which  is  built  upon 
props,  just  above  the  water  on  the  edge  of  the  bay,  and 
which,  like  Venice,  has  water  avenues  instead  of  streets, 
with  occasionally  a  so-called  "running  bridge,"  the  struc- 
ture of  which  T  deem  more  dangerous  than  anything  1 
have  ever  seen  in  my  life,  I  shall  try  to  describe  the 
sight.  Piles  or  props  have  been  driven  into  the  ground  in 
straight  lines,  about  ten  feet  apart;  the  upper  ends  are 
then  connected  with  cross  beams,  to  which  in  turn  are 
spiked  planks,  joining  the  opposite  rows  of  piles  or  props. 
The  bridge  thus  constructed  is  just  about  wide  enough  to 
permit  two  persons  to  pass  each  other,  while  it  is  fully 
from  eighty  to  a  hundred  feet  long.  As  the  gnawing 
tooth  of  time  loosens  the  piles  or  wears  them  out,  the 
passer  of  the  bridge  experiences  a  queer  sensation  when 
the  planks  creak  under  his  weight  in  consequence  of  the 
unsteady  support  below.  If  I  add  to  this  description  the 
fact  that  this  very  bridge  is  located  in  the  most  thickly 
inliabited  part  of  town  and  serves  as  a  means  of  daily 
communication  to  thousands  of  people,  you  will  undoubt- 
edly asks:  ''How  does  that  harmonize  with  the  gigantic 
structures  at  the  wharves?"  But  anybody  who  bears 
in  mind  that  everything  here  in  America  is  done  for  a 
purpose  will  soon  find  the  clue.  The  bridge  is,  to  begin 
with,  for  foot  passengers  only.  The  Americnn  would 
consider  every  dollar  money  thrown  away  were  he  to  put, 
for  instance,  a  railing  on  either  side  of  said  bridge,  as 
he  reasons  that  people  who  desire  to  make  use  of  this 
short  cut  should  have  sense  enough  to  look  out  that  they 
do  not  fall  into  the  water,  just  as  before  mentioned,  that 
they  are  expected  to  steer  clear  of  the  quickly  moving 
sand  cars  on  Batter}^  street,  lost  they  be  run  over  and 


native  principality,  abuse  the  g-overnment  which   protects  them 
from  personal  harm,  be  it  of  a  religious  or  political  nature. — 


Translator 


ISO  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

crushed.  Whoever  deems  this  bridge  too  dangerous  is 
entirely  at  liberty  to  choose  a  roundabout  and  much 
longer  way  to  reach  his  destination.  Just  imagine  our 
typical  German  philistine  in  Sunday  attire  coming  across 
such  a  bridge!  How  he  would  give  vent  to  his  righteous 
indignation  and  growl  at  the  seemingly  inexcusable  neg- 
ligence and  niggardly  parsimoniousness  of  the  munic- 
ipality, while  carefully  looking  about,  fearing  that  some 
one  might  have  overheard  his  unguarded  words.  But,  I 
assure  you,  I  never  have  admired  the  practical  side  of 
the  American  character  during  my  short  acquaintance 
with  their  means  and  methods,  more  than  in  this  very 
comparison.  There  is  on  one  side  of  this  strangely  orig- 
inal structure  just  described,  filling  its  temporary  pur- 
pose, and  right  alongside  of  it,  the  splendidly  built  Long 
wharf,  which  also  is  there  for  a  purpose,  different,  of 
course,  from  that  of  its  neighbor. 

Should  the  practical  eye  of  San  Francisco's  city  gov- 
ernment become  officially  convinced  today  that  this 
swinging  bridge  ought  to  be  replaced  by  one  of  fifty  feet 
in  width  and  of  more  solid  frame,  thousands  of  men 
would  be  found  at  work  tomorrow  and  in  about  a  week's 
time  all  would  be  done  and  nobody  would  be  very  much 
surprised.  This,  of  course,  is  so  different  from  the  good 
old  way  of  the  Fatherland,  where,  after  long  and  careful 
debating  and  consideration,  an  Honorable  City  Council 
would  perhaps  permit  repairs  of  said  bridge,  even  a  rail- 
ing, while  the  execution  of  the  municipal  edict  might 
drag  along  for  a  year.  Yes,  our  people  are  thorough 
whenever  they  undertook  a  thing,  but  so  slow! 

It  is  impossible  for  me  to  leave  the  harbor  without  due 
mention  of  the  many  magnificent  vessels,  which  are  here 
in  plain  sight.  Some  of  the  models  before  my  daily  gaze 
overshadow  everything  I  have  seen  anywhere  thus  far. 
The  American  clipper  has  particularly  attracted  my  at- 
tention; it  is  a  production  of  the  last  few  j'ears  and  has 
not  been  very  long  in  practical  use.  The  chief  object 
of  the  ship  builders  has  evidently  been  to  make  a  record 
with  these  new  vessels  for  unequaled  rapidity.     Every 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  181 

part  of  the  structure  indicates  this  purpose.  In  course 
of  a  short  time  this  new  line  of  vessels  has  reached  such 
a  marvelous  degree  of  superiority  that  clippers  of  two 
thousand  tons  and  more  sail  faster  than  many  of  our 
justly  famed  steamers,  thus  breaking  the  record  by  cov- 
ering fourteen  to  fifteen  knots  (nearly  four  Gennan 
miles)  an  hour,  which  is  not  even  taken  to  be  a  very 
remarkable  accomplishment  by  our  American  brethren. 
There  is,  for  instance,  at  anchor  in  this  harbor,  the  New 
Year  Clipper  ''Fleeing  Cloud,"  a  fine  vessel  of  nineteen 
hundred  tons,  which  has  made  the  trip  from  New  York 
with  full  freight  in  eighty-nine  days  and  which  is  the 
record  breaker,  as  far  as  hitherto  known.  Another  one, 
the  smaller  clipper  ''Challenge,"  has  made  the  trip  from 
Valparaiso  to  this  port  in  twenty-seven  days,  including 
four  days  of  calm,  while  we  spent  fifty-nine  days  in  mak- 
ing the  passage  between  the  same  ports.  These  clippers 
are,  notwithstanding  their  large  freight  capacity,  the 
most  handsome,  easy  going  and  elegant  models  one  can 
possibly  imagine.  Special  care  has  been  taken  to  avoid 
whatever  might  cause  the  least  resistance  to  the  welcome 
wind.  The  whole  is  in  appearance  sharp,  narrow  and 
long,  beautiful  to  behold.  While  these  well  shaped  ves- 
sels are  rigged  like  full-masters,  every  spare  space  be- 
tween the  masts  is  utilized  for  another  smaller  sail. 

There  need  hardly  be  any  mention  of  the  many  steam- 
ers in  this  great  harbor.  Ten  or  twelve  a  day  leave  for 
inland  points  or  seaward,  while  as  many  incoming  vessels 
anchor  daily,  among  which  may  be  seen  the  smallest  fish- 
ing boats  and  the  largest  merchant-men  often  more  than 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long.  The  number  of  steam- 
ers regularly  running  between  this  and  foreign  ports  is 
given  by  harbor  officials  as  from  one  hundred  and  forty  to 
one  hundred  and  sixty. 

Thus  far  the  city  and  its  harbor.  Let  us  now  describe 
the  people. 


182  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

The  People  of  San  Francisco. 

It  was  in  Valparaiso  where  a  young  Frenchman— one 
of  the  satirical  kind,  who  ridicule  eveiybody  and  every- 
thing that  does  not  strike  their  particular  fancy  at  any 
])articular  hour— for  the  French,  as  a  nation  as  well  as 
individuals,  are  veiy  much  subject  to  the  impulse  of  the 
moment— expressed  himself  about  San  Francisco  and  its 
inhabitants  as  follows: 

"Vous  n'  y  trouverez  pas  des  hommes,  seulement  des 
sacs  a  1 'argent,  ou  remplis  ou  vides."  "You  will  not  find 
any  human  beings  there,  only  money  bags,  either  filled  or 
empty. ' ' 

I  have  not  been  here  sufficiently  long  to  know  exactly 
how  far  this  man's  sarcastic  saying  may  be  justified  but, 
judging  from  the  kind  welcome  I  have  received  every- 
where so  far,  I  am  rather  inclined  to  take  his  words  at 
a  discount  as  an  intended  bon-mot  rather  than  as  ab- 
solute truth. 

Variegated  as  is  this  metropolis  of  the  West  itself,  are 
the  many  people  who  crowd  the  streets,  be  they  afoot,  in 
carriages  or  on  horseback.  I  do  not  think  that  there  is  a 
nation,  representatives  of  which  are  not  to  be  found  in 
every  sphere  of  local  society:  Yankees,  Mexicanos,  Peru- 
vians, Chileans,  Firelanders,  Italians,  Malays,  Siamese, 
Creoles,  Mulattoes,  Negroes,  Cliinese,  Indians— in  short, 
Jews  and  Gentiles  of  all  nations  people  the  ever-crowded 
streets  in  their  respective  national  costumes.  No  matter 
where  the  stranger  may  hail  from,  he  is  sure  to  find 
sooner  or  later  some  congenial  countryman  with  whom 
he  can  chat  in  his  mother  tongue.  Of  course,  English 
being  the  language  of  this  country  is  the  most  spoken, 
but  German,  French  and  Spanish  are  heard  almost  as 
often,  so  that  one  ought  to  be  able  to  converse  fluently  in 
four  languages  in  order  to  move  with  ease  among  all 
classes  of  local  society,  and  there  is  no  doubt  in  my  mind 
that  every  retail  merchant  of  this  city  is  daily  or  even 
hourly  called  upon  to  answer  in  at  least  three  of  the  above 
named   languages.     No   wonder   therefore   that    almost 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  183 

every  one  of  them— though  he  may  be  often  unable  to  go 
beyond  "yes"  or  "no"  and  to  count  (on  his  fingers)  — 
has  a  very  conspicuous  sign  in  his  show  window  an- 
nouncing his  linguistic  ability  in  words  lil^e:  "Aqui  se 
habla  espanol;  "  "Ici  on  parle  franc^ais,"  and  "Hier 
spricht  man  Deutsch."  In  this  respect  most  seaports 
are  alike.  Considering  the  great  mixture  of  elements, 
each  one  representing  different  modes  of  living,  thinking, 
acting,  each  individual  educated  and  raised  in  different 
zones  from  those  of  his  neighbors,  impressed  from  child- 
hood with  different  principles,  different  ideas  of  right 
and  wrong;  they  are  united  only  in  one  purpose,  namely, 
a  desire  to  become  rich  as  quickly  as  possible.  Does  it 
or  should  it  astonish  you  that  one's  personal  safety  and 
that  of  his  property  are  not  as  yet  as  firmly  assured  as 
in  other  civilized  states?  Notwithstanding  all  this,  I  can 
truly  say  that  the  average  opinion  in  this  respect  of  the 
folks  at  home  is  a  very  erroneous  one,  even  exaggerated. 
Our  daily  communications  and  means  thereof  are  now  no 
more  endangered  by  criminals  and  actual  crimes  than  in 
any  other  city  which  has  so  large  an  influx  of  foreign 
elements. 

In  order  to  explain  to  you  the  circumstances  which 
brought  about  a  radical  change  in  the  social  conditions, 
changing  the  most  disreputable  state  of  disorder  and  law- 
lessness into  one  of  absolute  safety,  I  shall  have  to  take 
you  back  in  spirit  over  a  jjeriod  of  about  nine  months,  to 
a  time  when  lawlessness  was  at  its  very  height.  This  re- 
quires likewise  a  detailed  account  of  lynch-law  and  its 
executions  during  the  last  year.  As  these  events  which 
I  am  about  to  relate  have  very  likely  been  reported  in 
fragments  or  in  such  distorted  fashion  that  you  will  not 
have  been  able  to  get  correct  impressions  of  the  matter,  I 
have  taken  particular  pains  to  get  at  the  very  truth  of 
this  history  making  epoch  of  San  Francisco.  I  conse- 
quently vouch  for  the  reliability  of  the  following  descrip- 
tion, as  it  has  been  told  me  by  Boettcher,  a  man  who  had 
been  one  of  the  prime  factors  of  the  movement  and  in 
whose  veracity  I  have  the  utmost  confidence. 


184  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Until  May  3d  of  last  year  the  danger  to  person  and 
property  had  reached  a  height  surpassing  belief,  both  in 
the  city  and  in  the  interior,  where  the  worst  imaginable 
conditions  are  said  to  have  prevailed.  It  had  come  to  the 
point  that  no  one  dared  to  venture  upon  the  street  with- 
out a  pistol  or  dagger,  even  in  broad  daylight.  In  out- 
lying parts  of  the  city,  precaution  was  taken  after  dark 
to  call  for  signals  of  recognition;  and  even  then  one  per- 
son meeting  another  would  be  ready  for  an  emergency  by 
keeping  his  weapon  in  hand,  so  that  at  the  first  suspicious 
movement  on  the  part  of  the  stranger,  he  might  be  able 
to  defend  himself  on  the  instant.  Every  issue  of  the  daily 
papers  would  contain  two  or  three  columns  of  sensational 
reports  of  criminal  assaults,  highway  robberies,  break- 
ing into  stores,  thieving  in  every  conceivable  way,  etc. 
Among  these  short  accounts  one  often  reads  of  the  most 
daring  broad-day  crimes,  executed  in  crowded  thorough- 
fares with  such  boldness  and  absolute  insolence  as  to 
baffle  all  description.  No  wonder  therefore  that  the  local 
authorities  became  practically  helpless  and  unable  to  put 
down  the  growing  lawlessness;  and  the  punishment  of 
guilty  parties  became  more  and  more  difficult;  while  law- 
abiding  citizens  openly  accused  officials  of  accepting 
bribes.  The  work  hating,  hoodlum  classes  seemed  to  feel 
licensed  to  prey  upon  the  public  like  so  many  human  vul- 
tures. Lawyers  and  even  judges  of  police  and  superior 
courts  had  become  corrupt,  and  it  became  known  that 
large  sums  of  money  had  gone  into  their  pockets  in  order 
to  facilitate  the  escape  of  criminals  through  loopholes 
and  technicalities  which  the  minions  of  the  law  knew  so 
well  how  to  manipulate  in  behalf  of  their  clients.  The 
natural  consequence  was  that  the  indignation  of  all  right- 
minded  people  rose  in  proportion  to  the  evergrowing 
number  of  criminals;  and  it  finally  Teached  a  climax  at 
the  time  of  the  May  conflagration  which  impoverished 
thousands  of  honest,  hard  working  inhabitants,  and  which, 
being  the  work  of  incendiaries,  was  accompanied  by  a 
large  number  of  lesser  crimes.  All  classes  of  society 
would  have  dissolved  under  similar  conditions  in  any 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  185 

part  of  the  wide  world,  and  a  more  or  less  revolutionary 
uprising  would  have  been  the  necessary  and  unavoidable 
consequence  of  similar  events  in  Europe;  but  the  Ameri- 
can imbibes  with  his  mother's  milk  not  only  a  certain 
respect  for  law  and  order  but  an  undeniable  talent  for 
self-government,  which  saved  him  in  this  instance  from 
mob  violence,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  munic- 
ipal authorities  showed  a  woeful  lack  of  power,  yea  worse, 
a  great  weakness  for  ill-gotten  gains.  Thus  every  indi- 
vidual suspected  his  next  door  neighbor  and  was  ever 
on  his  guard  to  protect  his  own  belongings  against  the 
fancied  or  real  covetousness  of  the  other;  each  one  kept 
a  watchful  eye  by  day  and  night.  People  went  about 
troubled  in  mind  and  ghastly  in  mien,  for  they  never 
knew  what  news  the  homecoming  might  have  in  store  for 
them.  In  order  to  meet  this  ever  growing  distrust  and 
worry,  the  citizens  had  to  determine  upon  some  very  de- 
cided course  of  action  in  order  to  protect  home  and  prop- 
erty. Thus  it  happened  that  toward  the  end  of  May,  six 
of  the  most  respected  citizens  inaugurated  a  movement 
which  was  destined  to  bring  about  a  radical  change  for 
the  better.  These  aforementioned  men,  having  quietly 
invited  their  most  trustworthy  acquaintances  to  join  them 
in  secret  in  a  well  known  hall  on  Sansom  street,  succeeded 
in  calling  a  gathering  of  about  sixty  picked  men  of  the 
most  reliable  merchants  and  tradesmen,  all  residents,  both 
Americans  and  foreigners.  Eaeh  one  appeared  well 
armed  and  bound  to  secrecy.  This  assemblage  knew  that 
they  were  called  for  a  purpose  and  proceeded  at  once  to 
select  from  among  their  number  temporary  president  and 
secretaries,  after  which  they  decided  upon  a  constitution 
and  by-laws,  laying  down  some  sort  of  program  for  the 
newly  created  secret  society,  the  purpose  of  which  was 
given  out  in  the  following  condensed  announcement: 

''The  undersigned  citizens  realize  that  if  the  present 
state,  of  affairs  should  be  allowed  to  continue,  a  total  up- 
heaval of  all  that  right  and  order  call  for  would  have  to 
be  expected,  as  the  action  or  inaction  of  the  local  munic- 
ipal authorities  has  given  convincing  proof  of  their  lack 


186  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

of  power  and  even  of  good  will,  failing,  too,  in  protecting 
the  working  citizen,  wherefore  they  have  decided  to  take 
this  duty  upon  themselves  and  thus  to  adopt  a  self-pro- 
tecting law,  vowing  to  stand  all  for  one  and  one  for  all." 

After  all  present  had  affirmed  the  above  by  a  solemn 
oath,  the  next  step  was  to  increase  the  membership  by 
inviting  men  who  were  recommended  and  vouched  for 
by  those  present,  who  were  looked  upon  as  the  charter 
members  of  this  young  organization.  In  three  days  the 
society  counted  no  less  than  two  hundred  and  eighty 
members,  all  of  them  picked  and  sworn;  this  number 
was  considered  sufficient  to  make  an  energetic  start.  Dur- 
ing the  second  meeting,  likewise  armed,  the  members 
were  divided  into  committees  and  sections.  At  first  a  per- 
manent watch  was  established  at  the  meeting  place  on 
Sansom  street;  then  a  number  of  small  patrols,  well  armed 
but  bearing  no  outward  sign  of  any  but  the  peaceful  mis- 
sion of  their  resiDective  vocation  or  leisure's  pursuits. 
Tlius  hundreds  of  eager  eyes  kept  watch  by  day  and 
night,  enveloping  the  city  like  a  network  of  vigilance. 
And  all  this  without  the  slightest  knowledge  of  anybody 
except  the  chosen  few.  They  thus  constituted  a  well  or- 
ganized secret  police,  acting  without  the  knowledge  or 
aid  of  the  municipal  authorities. 

Tlie  second  day  after  the  vigilance  committee  had  com- 
menced its  active  and  effective  work,  one  of  its  patrols 
succeeded  in  catching  a  thief,  who  had  stolen  a  bag  of 
money  from  an  office  and,  while  trying  to  escape  with  his 
plunder  in  rowing  across  the  bay,  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  patrol.  A  meeting  was  called  hurriedly  at  Sansom 
street  headquarters,  the  culprit  brought  before  the  presi- 
dent and  identified  as  one  Jenkins,  ex-Sydney  convict. 
The  witnesses  proved  the  correctness  of  the  charge  and 
the  president  picked  a  jury  of  twelve  persons,  who,  duly 
sworn,  returned  a  unanimous  verdict  of  guilty.  As  not 
one  of  those  present  voiced  an  objection,  the  president 
condemned  the  defendant  amidst  profound  silence  to  ex- 
piate his  crime  on  the  scaifold,  the  hanging  to  take  place 
within  half  an  hour.    Meanwhile  it  had  been  ordered  that 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  187 

the  occurrence  should  be  partly  made  known  in  the  city, 
in  order  to  prepare  the  citizens  for  an  extraordinary^ 
event,  without  giving  exact  details  as  to  what  to  expect. 
Thus  no  one  outside  the  sworn  members  of  the  organiza- 
tion knew  anything  definite,  but  even  the  late  hour  did 
not  prevent  the  gathering  of  an  enormous  crowd  at  the 
plaza— a  large  square  in  the  most  frequented  part  of  the 
city. 

Expectancy  was  at  its  height.  About  half  past  eleven 
there  appeared  the  criminal  Jenkins,  surrounded  by 
twenty-four  armed  men,  members  of  the  lynching  com- 
mittee. A  scaffold  had  been  erected  and  was  now  the  des- 
tination of  the  culprit,  though  an  unsuccessful  attempt 
had  been  made  by  a  few  regular  policemen  to  break  the 
cordon;  the  order  to  stand  back  and  the  significant  dis- 
play of  pistols  had  its  wholesome  effect  upon  these  so- 
called  agents  of  public  safety.  When  the  ])lace  of  hang- 
ing had  been  reached  the  chosen  leader  of  the  band  of 
lynchers,  climbing  upon  a  table  and  in  the  torchlight,  ad- 
dressed the  multitude,  which  had  reached  a  number  of  at 
least  twelve  thousand  people.  He  dwelt  eloquently  upon 
the  present  state  of  affairs  and  this  particular  event,  end- 
ing his  fiery  speech  with  these  words:  '' Citizens  of  San 
Francisco!  Is  it  your  will  that  this  criminal  Jenkins, 
who  has  been  found  guilty  of  robbery,  shall  lose  his  life 
by  the  rope?"  A  thundering  ''yes"  from  thousands  of 
voices  was  the  answer  and  when  the  sound  began  to  die 
away  the  lifeless  body  of  Jenkins  was  already  swinging 
in  midnight  air! 

Tliis  daring  deed  had  given  publicity  to  the  existence 
and  purpose  of  the  society  and  the  crisis  was  overcome. 
Everybody  indorsed  the  action  of  the  lynchers  and  the 
demand  for  admission  to  membership  reached  such  pro- 
portions that  the  names  of  nearly  every  honest  and  armed 
man  in  the  city  appeared  on  the  membership  roll  within 
the  next  few  weeks.  Of  course,  it  became  necessar^^  to 
reconstruct  the  by-laws  and  reorganize  committees,  sub- 
divide patrols  and  plan  the  whole  working  on  a  larger 
and  more  effective  scale.     It  was  therefore  decided  to 


188  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

select  an  Executive  Body  of  two  hundred  men,  known 
henceforth  as  "Vigilance  Committee"  which  would  take 
upon  itself  the  authoritative  patroling  and  general  man- 
agement of  this  protective  policy.  The  city  was  divided 
into  districts,  harbor,  water  front,  city  and  suburban  dis- 
tricts; all  had  their  vigilance  patrols,  while  those  mem- 
bers of  society  who  had  not  been  detailed  to  duty  formed 
a  sort  of  secret  agency,  which  in  all  probability  has  never 
been  known  to  work  with  greater  precision,  greater  har- 
mony and  consequently  to  better  effect.  So-called 
''fences,"  that  is,  houses  of  people  who  harbor  stolen 
goods,  were  searched  and  a  great  many  arrests  were  made 
without  giving  newspaper  publicity.  In  a  short  time 
branch  committees  of  the  vigilance  organization  were 
established  throughout  the  state  and  many  a  criminal 
fugitive  from  justice  was  caught  in  a  far  away  hiding 
place  of  the  mining  districts  in  the  Sierras.  Even  steam- 
ers were  pressed  into  service  to  follow  the  tracks  of 
escaped  culprits,  to  Mazatlan  and  Panama,  in  order  to 
return  them  to  San  Francisco  jurisdiction.  ISTaturally, 
enormous  sums  of  money  were  needed  for  such  extensive 
prosecution  but  that  did  not  hinder  the  progress  of  the 
movement,  which  had  set  for  its  purpose  the  complete 
suppression  of  the  lawless  element  and  whenever  the 
monthly  contributions  of  the  members,  five  dollars  a  head, 
proved  insufficient,  calls  for  public  contributions  were  so 
well  responded  to  that  whatever  suras  were  needed  could 
be  raised  in  a  few  hours.  I  suppose  you  will  be  shocked 
to  hear  that  but  one  fonn  of  punishment  was  dealt  out— 
the  rope.  Under  these  circumstances  the  state  of  affairs 
improved  hourly  and  the  safety  of  the  lives  and  property 
of  citizens  became  more  and  more  evident.  Any  person 
whose  conscience  accused  him  of  misdeeds  sought  safety 
in  flight;  for,  to  be  caught,  to  be  convicted  and  to  be  hung 
was  but  the  experience  of  a  few  hours.  Tlie  fonner  pos- 
sibilities, yea  probabilities  of  escape  through  legal  loop- 
holes wore  things  of  the  past,  as  the  lynch  committee 
would  acknowledge  no  other  testimony  and  deal  out  jus- 
tice through  no  othei'  channels  but  that  of  the  conscience 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  139 

of  honest  men,  whose  final  judgment  bore  the  stamp  of 
somid  sense. 

However,  the  committee  had  set  its  ambition  higher 
than  merely  to  clear  the  city  and  surrounding  country  of 
vagabonds  of  every  description,  who  had  openly  sinned 
against  law,  life  and  property.  It  directed  its  energies 
likewise  against  those  who  had  helped  or  hidden  the 
criminals  in  their  respective  positions  as  lawyers,  judges, 
receivers  of  stolen  goods  or  as  den  or  dive  keepers  of 
more  ot  less  importance.  It  was  naturally  not  very  easy 
to  bring  this  class  of  malefactors  to  justice,  to  convict  and 
condemn  them  to  the  well  earned  rope,  but  they  were  nev- 
ertheless dealt  with  most  effectively.  The  judges  and 
lawyers  were  practically  ruined  by  the  arousing  of  public 
opijiion  against  them  by  publishing  in  the  most  popular 
dailies  the  trials  of  noted  criminals  in  the  course  of  which 
these  men  had  proven  themselves  unworthy  of  their  call- 
ing by  manipulating  evidence  in  favor  of  this  or  the  other 
law  breaker,  giving  full  particulars  of  the  tricks  used  in 
such  cases.  By  this  and  similar  means  they  became  ex- 
posed to  the  wrath  of  the  people,  and  not  only  lost  their 
patronage  among  the  honest  citizens  but  generally  earned 
their  well  deserved  public  contempt;  and  whenever  they 
appeared  in  the  streets  they  were  greeted  with  hisses, 
shouts  and  other  degrading  expressions.  As  this  class  of 
men  had  accumulated  more  or  less  wealth  they  disap- 
peared one  by  one,  without  noise  and  without  special 
farewell  services.  Thus  San  Francisco  was  effectually 
freed  from  this  most  undesirable  gentry. 

Next  in  order  were  the  keepers  of  ''fences"  and  dens, 
called  ''cribs,"  the  number,  exact  list  of  names  and 
biographies  of  which  had  been  secured  by  the  vigilance 
committee  by  means  of  secret  service  men.  With  these 
another  process  was  enacted.  Most  of  these  fellows  were 
ex-convicts  from  Sydney,  Australia,  and,  according  to 
information  obtained,  either  exiled,  escaped  or  discharged 
from  there.  They  were  dealt  with  very  effectually  and 
by  rather  short  methods.  The  vigilance  com^mittee  paid 
passage  on  an  outgoing  vessel,  bound  for  Sydney,  for  the 


190  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

whole  outfit,  numbering  more  than  thirty,  and  sent  every 
one  of  them  the  fol lowing  notice  on  the  same  day:  "Five 
days  after  date  you  will  have  to  leave  the  city  of  San 
Francisco  and  Upper  California  forever.  Passage  has 
been  paid  for  you  on  board  of  the  vessel  *N,'  Captain 
'N,'  in  this  harbor,  bound  for  Sydney.  Ticket  herewith 
enclosed.  "The  Vigilance  Committee." 

No  further  signature  was  attached  to  this  laconic  noti- 
fication of  their  banishment  but  so  panic  stricken  were 
tiie  recipients  by  the  order  of  the  all-powe-rful  committee 
that  all  but  one  hastened  to  comply  without  making  an  at- 
tempt at  delay  by  contradiction.  One,  however,  thought 
himself  immune,  pretending  that  nobody  would  be  able  to 
prove  his  actual  guilt  and— he  remained.  To  his  amaze- 
ment he  found  his  house  one  fine  morning  surrounded  by 
two  hundred  well  armed  men.  Every  particle  of  his  be- 
longings were  packed  on  a  wagon,  whereupon  he  himself 
was  given  a  fi'ee  ride  to  the  building  of  the  vigilance  com- 
mittee on  Battery  street,  where  he  was  held  prisoner  for 
eight  days,  i.  e.,  until  the  departure  of  another  Sydney 
bound  vessel,  when  he  and  his  belongings  were  taken  on 
board  and  he  was  bidden  farewell.  This  man  had  suf- 
fered veritable  death  agony  during  the  eight  days  of  his 
involuntary  imprisonment  in  the  Battery  street  jail, 
which  inmates  in  those  days  were  seldom  known  to  have 
left— except  to  ascend  the  scaffold.  No  wonder  that  he 
was  happy  to  have  saved  his  neck,  even  in  this  manner. 

The  municipal  authorities,  for  weighty  reasons  of  their 
own,  dared  not  interfere,  and  thus  the  vigilance  commit- 
tee held  full  sway  until  the  former  commenced  to  feel 
the  sting  of  public  disdain,  as  well  as  chagrined  that  their 
presence  and  offices  cut  so  small  a  figure  in  public  opin- 
ion. Tliey  then  planned  to  regain  the  power  which,  in 
their  opinion,  the  vigilance  committee  had  usurj^ed.  An 
opportunity  for  their  intended  action  seemed  to  have 
come.  With  the  beginning  of  August  the  arduous  work 
of  the  purification  by  the  vigilance  committee  seemed 
to  have  been  nearly  completed.  Tliere  remained,  how- 
ever, among  a  few  others    a    band    of  very  dangerous 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  191 

criminals,  all  of  whom    were    Sydney    men,    who    had 
been    sought    in   vain   for   many   months.      They   were 
five:     Kobinson,  Hamilton,   Thompson,  Whittaker   and 
MacKenzie.     At  last  the  three  first  named  were  caught 
in    the   neighborhood    of   Sacramento,    while   about    to 
add  a  new  crime  to  their  already  heavy  list.     To  the 
sleuths  of  the  Sacramento  branch  committee  belonged  the 
credit  of  catching  Thompson  and  Hamilton,  while  Kob- 
inson was  caught  by  the  regular  authorities  of  San  Fran- 
cisco.    All  three  were  incendiaries  or  highway  robbers, 
but  owing  to  the  mixed  associations  in  their  many  mis- 
deeds the  trial  lasted  considerably  longer  than  it  other- 
wise would  have  done.    The^  fact  that  their  crimes  had 
been  committed  in  different  parts  of  the  state  had  also 
delayed  matters,  as  it  was  the  purpose  of  the  committee 
to  lift  the  veil  from  all  their  misdeeds  before  sentencing 
them.     Finally,  toward  the  middle  of  August,  the  other 
two  miscreants,  Yrhittaker  and  MacKenzie,  were  caught 
and  taken  to  the  headquarters  of  the  vigilance  commit- 
tee in  San  Francisco,  after  which  the  trial  took  a  quicker 
turn.    As  you  will  have  obsei^^ed,  the  fact  was  that  the 
trial  against  these  five  malefactors  had  to  be  divided 
into  three  parts  and,  still  worse,  it  had  to  be  carried  on 
in  different  cities  and  under  distinct  authorities,  virtually 
on  bad  footing  with  each  other,  which  surely  did  not  help 
nor  hasten  matters.    Eobinson  was  tried  in  the  regular 
criminal  court  of  San  Francisco,  Thompson  and  Hamil- 
ton stood  before  the  vigilance  committee,   Sacramento 
branch,  while  Whittaker  and  MacKenzie  had  to  face  the 
main  committee  in  this  city.     It  was  on  the  eighteenth  , 
of  August    when   "Whittaker    and    MacKenzie  were  ad- 
judged guilty  and  condemned  to  be  hung  the  next  morn- 
ing.   During  the  night  the  unexpected  happened.    It  had 
not  bden  thought  necessary  to  keep  an  unusually  numer- 
ous guard  on  the  occasion  and  it  was  therefore  an  easy 
matter  for  the  sheriff  and  a  few  well  armed  officers  to 
take  possession  of  the  two  criminals,  whom  they  led  to 
the  prison  on  Telegraph  Hill.  Meanwhile  the  trial  against 
Robinson  before  the  criminal  court  in  Sacramento  had 


193  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

come  to  an  end  on  the  twentieth  of  August,  resulting  in 
death,  sentence  for  the  defendant.  The  execution  was  to 
have  taken  place  on  the  twenty-first  of  August,  instead  of 
which  the  authorities  proclaimed  the  governor's  pardon 
of  said  Eobinson  who  had  actually  confessed  to  murder 
and  incendiarism.  This  gubernatorial  act  of  injustice 
naturally  caused  an  outburst  of  wrath  from  the  justly 
embittered  populace,  who  arose  and  loudly  demanded 
the  execution  of  the  other  two  law  breakers.  Meanwhile 
the  vigilance  branch  committee,  forewarned  by  the  kid- 
naping experience  of  the  other  prisoners  by  the  San 
Francisco  sheriff,  hastened  to  hang  the  two  companions 
of  Eobinson,  Thompson  and  Hamilton  on  the  twenty- 
second  of  August  in  the  public  square  of  Sacramento. 
And  now  happened  the  incredible.  Eobinson,  already 
freed,  had  the  unprecedented  ner\^e  and  morbid  curiosity 
to  watch  the  execution  from  among  the  many  witnesses. 
As  he  had  taken  no  precaution  whatever  to  avoid  being 
recognized  he  was  caught  anew  and  the  leaders  of 
the  committee  ordered  at  once  a  third  scaffold  to  be 
erected.  This  was  done  in  a  moment,  boards  being 
roughly  nailed  together— for  the  purpose— and  before  his 
two  companions  in  crime  had  breathed  their  last  this 
bandit,  too,  notwithstanding  the  governor's  pardon,  was 
swinging  in  mid  air,  suspended  at  the  end  of  a  rope. 

Though  the  central  committee  of  the  vigilance  organ- 
ization in  San  Francisco  had  been  greatly  exasperated 
by  the  kidnaping  of  the  two  condemned  criminals  by  the 
municipal  authorities,  it  took  all  possible  means  to  calm 
the  great  excitement  of  the  general  populace,  in  order 
to  prevent  an  open  rupture  with  the  legal  heads  of  the 
city  government,  such  as  any  revolt  on  the  part  of  over- 
zealous  citizens  would  undoubtedly  have  brought  about. 
Tliis,  however,  did  not  mean  that  the  committee  would 
willingly  stand  by  to  see  the  previously  condemned  men 
escape  execution  of  their  sentence,  after  so  much  time, 
effort  and  money  had  been  spent  to  reach  the  ends  of 
justice.  It  was  therefore  secretly  decided  that  the  pris- 
oners should  be  re-taken  bv  means  similar  to  those  used 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  193 

by  order  of  the  regular  authorities,  that  is,  by  finesse.  It 
came  therefore  to  pass  ou  Sunday,  the  twenty-fourth  of 
August,  that  one  of  the  initiated  obtained  permission  to 
enter  the  city  prison,  while  the  jorisoners  were  assembled 
in  the  chapel  to  attend  Divine  Service.  When  the  door 
was  partly  opened  to  receive  him  this  man  took  such  a 
position  that  it  became  impossible  for  the  doorkeeper  to 
close  the  gate  without  using  force.  Before  he  had  a 
chance  to  call  for  aid  the  visitor  had  given  a  signal  in 
answer  to  which  forty  heavily  armed  strangers  appeared 
upon  the  scene  to  give  the  first  visitor  their  aid.  "Whit- 
taker  and  MacKenzie  were  then  overpowered  without  any 
trouble,  placed  in  a  waiting  vehicle,  which  drove  them 
at  full  speed  to  the  Batters"  street  branch  of  the  vigilance 
committee,  where  they  were  made  to  expiate  their  crimes 
by  means  of  a  rope,  which  was  fastened  to  the  window 
casements,  whilst  an  enormous  crowd  cheered  lustily 
without. 

This  was  the  last  public  act  of  the  vigilance  committee 
during  the  past  year,  as  it  slowly  yielded  its  power  to  the 
proper  municipal  authorities,  not,  however,  without  a 
very  plain,  explicit  understanding  that  its  services  could 
again  be  relied  upon  should  public  safety  require  them. 

San  Francisco  owes  this  body  of  clean,  tried  men  a 
great  deal  more  than  the  world  will  ever  know.  As  al- 
ready mentioned,  safety  to  life  on  our  streets  is  at  pres- 
ent as  effectually  assured  as  it  is  anywhere  in  large  cit- 
ies; and  although  the  majority  of  citizens  continue  to 
go  about  anned,  it  is  more  from  the  force  of  habit  ac- 
quired than  by  reason  of  fear.  It  is  true,  however,  that 
one  has  to  be  on  one's  guard  and  avoid  quarrel,  as  the 
least  word-duel  is  apt  to  end  in  a  pistolade,  as  there  seems 
yet  to  be  much  inclination  to  meet  an  insult  with  a  bullet. 
But  all  peaceably  minded  persons  who  go  quietly  about 
their  daily  occupation,  avoiding  everything  that  is  not 
part  of  their  legitimate  line  of  work,  but  who  seek  only  to 
earn  daily  bread  will  seldom  be  annoyed  by  ruffians. 

It  cannot  naturally  be  expected  of  me  to  have  gained 
a  reliable  insight  into  the  business  affairs  of  this  great 
n 


194  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Western  city  during  my  short  stay  of  a  fortnight.  Mer- 
chants, however,  are  heard  to  complain  at  present  of  con- 
siderable pressure  brought  about  by  overi^roduction  and 
scarcity  in  the  money  market.  It  thus  happened  that 
my  many  efforts,  aided  by  most  excellent  recommenda- 
tions and  personal  endeavors  of  newly  found  friends, 
failed  to  secure  for  me  a  position  as  clerk.  But  there  are 
thousands  of  ways  and  means  of  support  in  America, 
which,  if  they  do  not  serve  for  anything  better,  will  at 
least  surely  keep  the  wolf  from  the  door. 

Mercantile  establishments  are  mostly  in  the  hands  of 
either  North  Americans,  Englishmen  or  Germans,  while 
there  are  likewise  some  very  rich  and  respected  Chilean 
firms,  but  very  few  French  and  Mexican  business  houses. 
The  Chinese,  too,  go  into  business  ventures  once  in  a 
while,  but  rarely  on  a  large  scale,  though  many  of  them 
are  very  rich  and  could  easily  have  the  largest  establish- 
ments in  the  city,  if  monej^  were  the  sole  factor.  Each  na- 
tionality tries  to  preserve  its  own  peculiar  character  and, 
as  will  be  readily  understood,  the  general  hunt  for  money 
and  riches  does  not  always  bring  out  the  better  qualities 
of  men  to  advantage,  but  rather  tends  to  bring  the  weak 
ones  into  daily  display.  While  it  cannot  be  denied  that 
some  acquire  riches  in  comparatively  few  years,  most 
foreigners  remain  but  a  short  time,  only  to  return  home 
with  disappointed  hopes  and  shattered  expectations;  they, 
however,  make  room  for  newcomers;  new  elements  take 
the  vacant  places,  and  the  merry  war  for  earthly  posses- 
sions continues.  The  sooner  the  European  realizes  that 
the  only  safe  way  toward  accumulating  money  is  to  work 
for  it,  the  better  for  him.  There  is  not  one  out  of  a  hun- 
dred who  grows  rich  rapidly,  and  here  as  elsewhere  tlie 
old  adage:  "Honesty  is  the  best  paying  policy,'*  is  in 
reality  the  only  ''golden  rule"  one  should  follow  in 
business  as  well  as  in  private  life.  Though  we  generally 
believe  that  time  is  all-powerful  in  smoothing  conditions 
and  hannonizing  difficulties  and  national  peculiarities, 
there  seems  to  be  astonishingly  little  assimilation  be- 
tween the  different  nations;  they  seem  to  remain  inten- 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  196 

tionally  and  distinctly  foreign  to  each  other.  Of  all  for- 
eigners, the  German  seems  to  command  the  highest  re- 
spect in  public  opinion.  The  American  respects  him,  and 
— please  do  not  laugh  at  the  comparison — the  Chinaman 
seems  to  honor  him  above  all  foreigners.  Both  of  these 
nations  have  obtained  the  good  will  of  the  natives  by 
their  soberness,  honesty  and  industry,  which  qualities 
the  real  Yankee  the  more  admires,  as  he  sees  in  them  the 
fundamental  principles  of  a  great  nation.  Englishmen 
and  Americans  seem  to  get  along  fairly  well,  but  a  close 
observer  will  be  very  much  amused  at  times,  and  unin- 
tentionally think  of  long  forgotten  mother  goose  stories 
of  cat  and  dog.  When  the  Englishman  goes  with  hands 
in  his  wide  trousers,  whistling  his  ''Rule  Britannia"  or 
some  other  of  his  national  songs,  the  genuine  Yankee  (if 
one  happens  to  be  walking  behind  him)  cannot  refrain 
from  humming  ''Yankee  Doodle,"  a  by  no  means  com- 
plimentary song  to  the  Briton. 

Frenchmen  find  no  favor  in  the  eye  of  the  native  Amer- 
ican, who  cares  little  for  them.  "All  French  humbug" 
is  a  saying  frequently  heard  in  American  circles.  The 
fact  is  that,  though  present  in  large  numbers,  they  sel- 
dom show  visible  means  of  support.  Most  of  them  are 
waiters,  restaurant  keepers  or  professional  gamblers, 
though,  here  as  everywhere  else,  one  finds  noble  excep- 
tions. 

Women  are  scarce  in  this  part  of  the  New  World, 
though  I  am  told  that  they  are  much  more  numerous  now 
than  a  few  years  ago. 

Having  mentioned  before  that  the  French  population 
in  this  city  consists  to  a  certain  extent  of  professional 
gamblers,  I  am  led  to  say  a  few  words  about  the  gambling 
houses,  of  which  so  many  strange  stories  have  been  told 
abroad.  The  fact  is,  they  long  ago  outlived  their  noto- 
riety. The  magnificent,  gorgeously  decorated  halls  of 
such  places  as  the  "Veranda,"  "Eldorado,"  "Union 
Hotel,"  "Oregon  House"  and  a  few  others,  the  pomp  and 
fascinating  attractiveness  of  which  are  cei-tainly  not  out- 
done even  by  public  resorts  of  Hamburg  or  Berlin,  are 


196  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

now  mostly  deserted  in  daytime,  and  frequented  at  night 
by  sailors  or  lucky  miners,  who  cannot  rid  themselves 
quickly  enough  of  their  hard-earned  money.  The  for- 
merly rich  display  of  gold  by  the  bank  holders  of  the 
green  table  has  diminished  to  such  an  extent  that  one 
rarely  sees  a  few  pieces  exhibited  and  even  in  the  largest 
establishments,  where  formerly  hundreds  of  twenty  dol- 
lar gold  pieces  tempted  the  gaping  crowds  to  try  their 
chances,  today  the  smallest  current  coin— one  bit— (or 
Spanish  "real,"  one-eighth  of  a  dollar)  will  not  be  re- 
fused by  the  keeper  or  bookmaker.  This  rapidly  decreas- 
ing popularity  of  gambling  houses  is  a  most  convincing 
proof  of  the  immeasurable  success  of  the  Vigilance-Re- 
form movement,  as  well  as  of  all-powerful  "public  opin- 
ion" in  America.  And  Jean  Galbert  de  Campistron,  the 
great  French  playwright,  who  indignantly  asked:  "The 
public!  the  public!  how  many  fools  are  required  to  make 
up  a  public?"  would  indeed  be  ill  at  ease  in  this  country. 

A  few  well  worded  newspaper  articles  proved  sufficient 
to  incense  the  people  against  these  academies  of  vice  and 
breathing  places  of  immorality.  Had  not  our  greatest 
living  poet,  Ferdinand  FreiligTath,  whom  Americans 
honor  as  the  most  beloved  German  friend  of  their  own 
Longfellow,  blasted  all  hopes  of  speculating  gamblers  to 
establish  their  nefarious  bank  in  the  ruins  of  the  old  his- 
toric castle  Ebernburg,  by  a  single  poem:  "The  Monu- 
ment," which  appeared  a  few  years  ago  in  the  "Cologne 
Gazette,"  the  San  Francisco  newspaper  success  would 
have  won  an  unprecedented  victory,  which,  however,  is 
great  and  praiseworthy  enough  in  itself.  Thanks  to  this 
noble  effort  of  the  press,  to  be  a  gambler,  has  since  be- 
come the  worst  thing  that  can  be  said  of  a  man. 

The  American  press  differs  from  that  of  our  methodical 
home  periodicals.  It  is  very  much  more  alive  and  awake 
to  the  fact  that  it  has  to  serve  purposes  of  which  the  solid 
"Old  "World"  has  little  or  no  conception.  It  may  have  its 
faults  but  then  it  has  greater  responsibilities,  greater 
aims  and  is  consequently  more  heeded  by  the  reading 
masses  than  its  pompous  contemporaries  abroad.    Its  edi- 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  197 

torials  are  the  expressions  of  free  men,  who  say  what  is 
uppermost  in  their  mind,  without  fear  of  government  cen- 
sure or  imprisonment.  No  wonder  then  that  the  press  is 
one  of  the  pillars  of  this  country.  It  fully  deserves  rec- 
ognition. 

As  to  myself,  I  cannot  tell  you  just  yet  what  I  may 
chose  to  do  in  case  my  endeavors  to  obtain  a  paying  posi- 
tion in  this  city  should  not  be  crowned  with  success 
within  the  next  few  days,  though  I  shall  very  likely  take 
the  next  best  chance  to  try  my  luck  in  the  mines.  To  do 
this  will  be,  if  nothing  else,  an  educating  experiment,  and 
without  overworking  one's  self,  one  can  easily  make  the 
necessary  expenses  of  daily  life  and  in  the  meantime  gain 
an  opportunity  of  making  a  wholesome  study  of  the  nat- 
ural conditions  of  the  country.  There  is,  of  course,  no 
more  hope  for  immense  riches  for  miners,  as  in  days  gone 
by,  when  a  globe  trotter  would  accidentally  stumble  over 
a  lump  of  pure  gold.  Still,  by  industry,  persevering  and 
saving,  one  can  yet  accumulate  a  moderate  sum  in  a 
longer  or  shorter  time,  as  fortune  may  permit.  I  board  at 
present  with  Griinhagen  and  Olias  in  Boettcher's  resi- 
dence, about  a.  (Gennan)  mile  from  San  Francisco,  in  a 
charming  place,  which  is  well  named  "Pleasant  Valley." 
There  are  several  young  clerks  from  the  city,  all  Ger- 
mans, rooming  in  the  same  house,  so  that  we  number  a 
round  dozen  at  the  dinner  table.  The  walk  to  town  is  very 
agreeable  and  takes  but  half  an  hour.  My  expenditure 
amounts  to  twelve  dollars  a  week  for  room  and  board, 
which  will  prove  to  you  that  living  expenses  are  not 
nearly  as  high  as  in  days  gone  by.  I  live  well  at  that, 
and,  as  far  as  eating  and  drinking  goes,  far  better  than 
at  home.  Life  in  hotels  and  saloons,  however,  is  very  ex- 
pensive; so  are  the  three  best  theaters  of  this  city — the 
American  Theater,  the  "Jenny  Lind"  and  the  Theatre 
Fran^ais— where  tickets  for  seats  in  the  loges  or  dress 
circles  are  three  dollars  apiece.  Wine  seems  to  be  cheaper 
here  than  in  the  large  vineyards.  For  instance,  a  gallon 
— about  five  bottles  and  a  half  of  good  table  wine— costs 
but  four  bits  or  one-half  dollar,  and  the  best  champagne 


198  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

no  more  than  four  dollars  a  gallon,  which  makes  it  pos- 
sible for  the  poorest  day  laborer  who  shoves  a  hand  cart 
or  carries  a  hod  to  include  half  a  bottle  of  wine  in  his 
bill  of  fare.  And  the  California  wine  is  fully  as  good  as 
the  French  wines,  so-called,  which  we  purchase  at  home; 
at  any  rate  you  get  what  you  pay  for.  Business  men,  as  a 
rule,  eat  after  what  is  called  the  American  plan,  and 
which  is  a  very  sensible  one,  in  my  estimation.  About 
eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  one  starts  with  a  good  warm 
breakfast,  consisting  of  beefsteak,  chops,  roast  beef  or 
something  of  that  sort,  winding  up  with  a  cup  of  good 
coffee.  About  noon  one  indulges  in  a  so-called  lunch,  that 
means  a  glass  or  two  of  wine,  bread  and  cheese  or  cold 
viands,  and  enjoys  the  principal  meal  at  six  o  'clock,  after 
the  cares  and  worries  of  the  day  are  over  and  the  office 
is  closed.  This  mode  of  living  suits  me  exceedingly  well, 
yes,  even  better  than  our  home  method  with  its  five  meals. 
By  this  method  the  day  is  not  much  divided,  and  one 
can  follow  one's  pursuits  without  being  interrupted  every 
two  or  three  hours,  and  the  natural  consequence  is  that 
the  American  accomplishes  more  in  a  day  than  his  Euro- 
pean competitor. 

Tliough  we  are  said  to  live  in  the  midst  of  the  rainy 
season,  I  cofifess  that  so  far  I  have  not  seen  a  drop.  The 
air  is  warm  and  most  agreeable  in  da^^time,  the  sky  clear 
and  of  a  tropical  blue,  and  Mother  Nature  is  clad  in  a 
pretty  green;  the  nights,  however,  are  decidedly  cold  and 
remind  me  quite  often  of  the  dear  ones  at  the  fireside  at 
home.  Tlie  mines,  too,  are  said  to  lack  rain,  particularly 
in  the  more  southern  region.  A  few  days  ago  I  had  a 
very  interesting  chat  with  a  miner  from  the  San  Joaquin 
country,  who  complained  greatly  about  the  lack  of  water 
in  the  ' '  diggings. ' '  He  claimed  to  have  worked  four  long 
months  without  being  able  to  wash  a  handful  of  the  earth. 
Having  thus  spent  his  money  for  necessities  of  life,  he 
found  himself  compelled  to  look  for  work  in  San  Fran- 
cisco until  the  long-looked-for  rain  would  give  him  a 
chance  to  sift  the  proceeds  of  his  months  of  hard  labor. 
And  there  are  hundreds  of  men  sharing  the  same  fate 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  199 

and  consequently  very  dejected  and  compelled  to  look  for 
temporary  employment  that  may  stay  the  tide  till  St. 
Peter  opens  the  channels  of  relief.  The  Northern  mines, 
on  the  contrary,  are  filled  with  snow  and  ice,  which  makes 
the  working  of  them  impossible,  though  many  of  the  min- 
ers, who  have  spent  the  winter  here,  are  preparing  al- 
ready for  another  season  of  hard  work  and  uncertain 
results.    Such  is  life  in  the  Wild  West. 

Meanwhile,  I  have  made  the  best  of  the  beautiful 
weather  by  taking  little  excursions  into  the  surrounding 
country,  which,  though  picturesque  in  places,  cannot  be 
called  beautiful.  The  surface  is  hilly  and  sandy,  covered 
with  shrubbery  and  here  and  there  interspersed  with 
marshes,  which  are  mostly  to  be  found  along  the  bay; 
weeds  and  impenetrable  shrubbery  grow  in  abundance 
and  harbor  large  numbers  of  snakes  and  other  reptiles, 
as  well  as  wolves  and  even  bears.  Sea  fowls  nest  there 
in  fabulous  quantities.  The  closer  to  the  city,  the  more 
the  clearing  of  the  creeks  for  the  purjoose  of  draining  has 
progressed. 

One  of  the  finest  spots  just  outside  the  city  is  Monte 
Dolores,  a  hill  of  about  twelve  to  eighteen  hundred  feet 
in  height;  from  its  summit,  which  it  is  not  difficult  to 
reach,  the  visitor  has  a  beautiful  panorama  before  him: 
San  Francisco  with  its  fine  harbor  and  the  Golden  Gate; 
the  bay  with  its  attractive  islands  on  one  side  and  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  in  all  its  majesty,  on  the  other.  There  is 
a  boulevard,  laid  out  with  planks,  which  leads  from  the 
Mission  Dolores  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  and  is  frequented 
on  Sundays  by  pleasure  seekers,  promenading  families, 
ladies  in  elegant  carriages,  people  on  horseback,  all  bent 
upon  enjoying  the  sights  which  Mother  Nature  presents. 
Were  it  not  for  an  occasional  redman  (Indian)  or  the  ever 
present  yellow  Mongolian  with  his  long,  coal  black  queue, 
one  would  fancy  one's  self  transported  to  one  of  the  much 
sought  promenades  of  a  German  city,  for  instance,  the 
ever  memorable  Hamburg  boulevard  leading  to  Blank- 
enese  (which  I  have  described  elsewhere)  instead  of  being 
on  the  far  away  Western  coast  of  North  America.  I  won- 


200  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

der  whether  I  am  safe  from  your  criticism  in  mentioning 
that  one  may  tramp  through   com   fields  and  meadows 
\\  ithout  being  fined,  as  is  customary  elsewhere.    It  is  ad- 
visable, however,  to  avoid  bands  of  cattle,  which  is  not 
always  a  safe  thing  to  do.    At  the  foothills  especially  the 
cattle  are  very  plentiful,  and  they  roam  about  uncared- 
for,  looking  for  food,  wherever  it  may  be  found.    Most  of 
these  animals  are  uncommonly  large,  powerfully  strong 
and  often  decidedly    hostile    in    disposition;  they  have 
large,  sharp  pointed  horns,  and  an  attack  upon  man  is 
not  at  all  an  unfrequent  occurrence.     Only  a  few  days 
ago  it  happened  that  a  Kentuckian  was  attacked  in  a 
neighboring  creek  by  two  cows  and  though  he  managed 
to  kill  one  of  them  outright  with  his  gun,  he  was  mis- 
erably harpooned  by  the  sharp  horns  of  the  other  and 
finally  lost  his  life  in  the  struggle.    Still  wilder  and 
consequently  more  dangerous  are  the  cattle  in  the  in- 
land on  the  other  side  of  the  bay,  known  as  ''Contra 
Costa."    To  give  you  a  more  coiTect  idea  of  the  situa- 
tion, I  may  add  that  even  the  Mexican  rancheros,  known 
for  their   daring  and   unsurpassed  horsemanship,   who 
are  almost  born  in  the  saddle  and  raised  among  herds  of 
wild  cattle,  who  never  throw  their  lasso  in  vain,  nor  fire 
a  pistol  without  hitting  the  mark,   even   they,  I   say, 
though  provided  with  tried  horses  and  reliable  weapons, 
will  never  venture  alone  into  those  herds  to  catch  an  ox 
for  slaughter.    The  interior  of  the  country  is  said  to  be 
uncommonly  romantic  and  decidedly  picturesque  and  of 
so  changeable  a  character  that  eyen  the  most  experi- 
enced world-trotters  have  been  surprised  at  the  manifold 
grandeur  of  California  sceneiy.     While  one  may  enjoy 
for  a  few  moments  a  typically  Dutch  rural  scene,  there 
appears  suddenly  a  magnificent  mountain  view,  with  its 
wild,    noisy    waters,    and    impenetrable    virgin    forests. 
"While  it  is  perfectly  true  that  the  high  mountains  of 
which  I  gained  a  very  satisfactory  view  from  the  neigh- 
boring hill-tops,  are  indeed  promising,  I  shall  not  at- 
tempt to  give  you  the  descriptions  of  other  people,  but 
prefer  to  wait  until  I  can  judge  and  tell  from  pGrsonal 
experience  and  observation. 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  201 

San  Francisco,  California, 
the  31st  of  January,  1852. 

As  there  remain  but  a  few  more  minutes  until  the 
closing  of  the  European  mail,  I  shall  make  use  of  them 
by  adding  a  few  more  words  to  those,  who  I  know,  will 
enjoy  them.  It  is  so  difficult  to  tear  one's  self  from  a 
letter,  which  is  homeward  bound,  across  the  many  thou- 
sands of  miles,  that  I  cannot  let  go  until  "time  sets  my 
nails  afire"  (German  idiom).  I  am  at  this  hour  quite 
determined  to  try  my  luck  in  the  mines  and  shall  leave 
for  the  interior  next  Tuesday,  the  third  of  February,  via 
Benicia  and  Stockton,  in  order  to  continue  along  the 
Stanislaus,  a  branch  of  the  San  Joaquin  River,  then  pass- 
ing Sonora  City,  enter  the  Sierra  Nevada  as  far  as  I  pos- 
sibly can.  In  all  probability  I  shall  not  return  to  civili- 
zation very  soon  and,  as  you  will  easily  comprehend,  pos- 
tal facilities  are  absolutely  unknown  in  those  regions, 
many  of  which  have  never  been  visited  by  a  pale-face  be- 
fore. Of  course,  it  remains  an  open  question  how  soon 
you  will  receive  my  next  letter,  while  this  one,  I  trust, 
will  keep  you  busy  reading  and  re-reading  for  many 
a  day.  Do  not  worry  about  me,  dear  parents,  and  do  not 
forget  that  California  has  ceased  to  be  a  nest  of  robbers 
and  highwaymen.  The  severe  laws,  which  the  miners 
have  enacted  in  their  own  behalf  and  for  the  preserva- 
tion of  order  in  their  own  camps,  and  which  they  exe- 
cute with  unrelenting  vigor,  frighten  away  criminals 
from  the  most  remote  camps.  Even  the  petty  thief,  if 
caught  in  the  act,  is  sent  into  eternity  by  the  "rope- 
route."  As  the  miners— rough  and  ready— are  in  the 
habit  of  doing  those  things  quickly,  we  should  not  be  sur- 
prised that  their  method  has  a  wholesome  effect  upon 
the  long-lingered  gentry,  most  of  whom  are  covrards  by 
nature,  and  the  miner,  though  he  generally  carries  a 
warm,  yea,  philanthropicalh^-disposed  heart  under  a 
rough  exterior,  cordially  detests  cowardice. 

Tlie  next  Panama  steamer  is  due  since  yesterday  and 
is  expected  to  arrive  at  almost  any  moment.  I  await  her 
with  impatience,  hoping  sincerely  for  long-missed  news 


202  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

from  you,  which  would  expel  the  feeling  of  uncertainty 
as  to  the  personal  welfare  of  every  one  of  my  loved  ones 
at  home. 

I  have  openly  to  confess  my  great  disappointment  at 
the  strange  fact  of  not  receiving  a  single  letter  from  you 
upon  landing  here  and  cannot  deny  that  it  has  depressed 
and  discouraged  me  for  many  an  hour,  and  to  a  great 
extent  emphasized  my  disappointment  at  not  obtaining 
employment.  Please  make  up  for  it  by  writing  long  let- 
ters and  real  often.  It  will  be  advisable  to  direct  the 
outer  envelope  as  follows: 

Messrs.  Gent,  Schott,  Boettcher  &  Co., 

San  Francisco, 
Upper  California. 

And  then  put  the  closed  letter  into  it.  The  mail  will 
thus  receive  quicker  attention  at  the  post-office  than  if  it 
were  directed  to  me  in  care  of  Boettcher.  Please  give 
my  very  best  regards  and  many  thousand  greetings  to  all 
the  loved  ones.  Do  not  worry  if  you  do  not  hear  from 
me  within  the  next  few  months,  but  write  diligently  that 
I  may  have  plenty  to  read.  I  embrace  and  kiss  you  all. 
God  be  with  vou! 

FRANZ  LECOUVREUR. 


Translator's  note: 

The  following  pages  contain  a  few  timely  quotations 
and  thoughts,  which  the  young  author  enclosed  in  the 
above  letter,  but  which  had  been  wi'itten  on  the  eve  of 
his  departure  from  Bartenstein.  His  well-known  ad- 
miration for  the  exiled  poet  Heine,  who  was  slowly  dying 
on  his  mattress-grave,  while  our  friend  set  foot  on  Amer- 
ican soil,  led  to  the  first  quotation,  which  refers  to  the 
unexpected  marriage  of  the  poet's  fianc<?e,  Amalie, 
daughter  of  Solomon  Heine,  his  multi-millionaire  uncle, 
a  fact  which  the  great  lyric  bemourned  in  many  songs, 
of  which  the  following  is  one  of  the  shortest: 


ON  AMERICAN  SOIL  203 

**Anfangs  wollt  ich  fast  verzagen 
*'Und  ich  glaubt',  ich  triig  es  nie — 

^'Und  ich  hab'  es  doch  ertragen, 
'*Aber  fragt'  mich  nur  nicht  wie!" 

(Translated: 

''First  I  almost  died  despairing 

"Doubting,  that  I  stand  the  strain, 
''Still,  I've  borne  it  without  yielding 
"How?    You  ask  of  me  in  vain!" 

-J.  C.  B.) 

Then  follows  our  young  author's  own  composition: 

"When,  in  the  battle  of  life,  the  heart  of  man  is  seem- 
"ingly  burning  to  ashes,  in  consequence  of  a  stroke  of 
"fate's  own  lightning,  when  he  sees  drop  by  drop  of  his 
"heart's  blood  trickle  into  dust,  let  him  not  despair,  but 
"rather  revive  his  drooping  spirits,  as  well  as  his  pride, 
"both  of  which,  aided  by  perseverance  and  self-reliance, 
"will  help  him  to  victory  in  all  struggles  which  the  fu- 
"ture  may  have  in  store  for  him.  Help  thyself  and  God 
^^ivill  help  thee.'*'' 

Then  follows  Riickert's:  "Dem  Liebesanger,"  which 
translated  would  read  somewhat  lilvc  this: 

TO  THE  EEOTIO  SINGER: 

If  you  wish  to  touch  the  heart-strings 
Of  all  human  kind  alike 
You  should  strike  the  note  of  sorrow. 
Not  the  melodies  of  joy. 
Many  a  one  finds  no  enjoyment 
During  earth-life,  and  methinks 
There  is  none,  who  does  not  carry 
Buried  troubles  in  his  breast. 

-(J.C.B.) 


LETTER  NO.  VIH 


Long  Bar  on  the  Yuba  Eiver,  Cal., 

Sunday,  February  8tli,  1852. 

My  Beloved  Ones: — I  hope  you  will  not  take  it  amiss 
if  I  ^vrite  only  a  few  words  to-day;  I  merely  want  you  to 
know  where  I  am  at  present.  As  I  wrote  to  you  before, 
my  intention  at  first  was  to  go  to  the  Southern  mines; 
unfavorable  reports  from  there,  however,  made  me  sud- 
denly change  my  mind,  the  more  so  as  on  the  2nd  inst. 
(Monday)  the  younger  of  the  Boettchers  made  up  his 
mind  to  accompany  us  and  share  our  fate. 

The  same  day  at  4  o'clock  p.  m.  we  four,  that  is 
Boettcher,  Griinhagen,  Olias  and  myself,  taking  with 
us  only  our  blankets,  arms  and  such  clothing  as  was  in- 
dispensable, started  on  the  steamer  ''I.  Bragdon"  for 
Sacramento,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  where  we 
arrived  on  Tuesday  morning  at  5  o'clock.  At  8  o'clock 
we  continued  our  trip  up  the  river  on  board  the  "Fash- 
ion" and  reached  Marysville  at  the  junction  of  the  Yuba 
with  the  Feather  river,  a  tributary  of  the  Sacramento, 
at  5  p.  m.  At  Marysville  we  remained  over  night,  and 
on  Wednesday  moraing  we  started  upon  our  journey,  of 
course  afoot.  In  the  evening  we  arrived  here.  We  found 
the  bar  already  taken  possession  of;  not  a  place  left  open 
that  offered  a  tolerable  "prospect,"  but  on  the  follow- 
ing day,  in  the  evening,  an  American  offered  to  sell  us 
his  claim.  AVe  bought  it  for  75  Dollars,  and  since  noon 
of  day  before  j^esterday  we  have  been  hard  at  work.  Up 
to  the  evening  yesterday  we  had  taken  out  only  10  Dol- 
lars; but  considering  that  none  of  us  four  are  used  to 


*Tliis  Long  Bar  and  Yuba  Mining  letter  is  the  late  Dr.  Theo- 
dor  Wollweber's  translation, — ^J.C.B. 

^04 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  205 

hard  labor,  tliat  we  have  never  handled  the  tools,  much 
less  acquired  any  knack  in  handling  them,  and  that  aside 
from  this,  Olias  has  been  unwell  since  yesterday  and  un- 
able to  work — considering  all  this  it  seems  to  me  that 
the  result  is  not  very  bad.  The  former  owner  took  out 
from  this  claim  from  5  to  7  Dollars  a  day,  all  by  him- 
self. 

The  weather  is  very  clear  and  pleasant,  at  noon  even 
oppressively  warm,  so  that  the  miners  have  to  suspend 
work.  Of  course  during  the  summer  it  is  much  hotter 
here;  for  this  reason  we  do  not  intend  to  pass  it  on  this 
bar;  but  will  go  further  up  in  the  mountains,  which  are 
now  inaccessible  on  account  of  snow. 

The  work  of  a  miner  is  now-a-days  anything  but  easy. 
To  move  heavy  stones  under  a  burning  sun  at  mid-day, 
to  loosen  the  ground  with  the  pick,  to  shovel  it  then  into 
the  rocker,  to  caiTy  50  or  60  buckets  of  water  a  day  from 
a  distance  of  several  hundred  yards  over  a  rough,  stony 
path  up  and  down  hill,  is  no  child's  play.  But  then,  we 
lead  a  life  as  free  as  the  bird  in  the  air.  The  miner  is 
nobody's  master  and  nobody's  slave;  there  is  no  law  for 
him  except  that  which  he  makes  for  himself. 

In  the  course  of  time  I  shall  get  used  to  this  work 
which  as  yet  causes  my  back  somewhat  to  ache.  If  I  re- 
main well  I  shall  not  soon  return  to  San  Francisco.  This 
wild  free  life,  the  sweat  of  the  brow,  the  pistol  in  the 
belt,  the  pick  in  hand— this  is  just  what  suits  me— it  dis- 
perses thoughts  which  at  times  make  me  feel  very  heavy 
at  heart. 

Continue  to  write  to  me  to  San  Francisco ;  I  have  made 
arrangements  for  the  prompt  and  safe  delivery  of  your 
letters.  It  distresses  me  very  much  that  as  yet  I  have 
not  received  any  letters  from  you.  Can  it  be  possible 
that  they  have  been  lost!  I  am  awaiting  your  answer 
to  four  letters  of  mine;  Nos.  9  and  10  from  Valparaiso, 
Nos.  11  and  12  from  San  Francisco.  Yesterday  Emil 
Boettcher  received  a  letter  from  Konigsberg;  how  I  en- 
vied him!  Emil  will  inclose  these  lines  in  his  letter  to 
his  mother  and  so  I  hope  that  3^ou  will  receive  them;  but 


206  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

to  say  when  I  shall  write  again,  is  more  than  I  can  do 
now.  Do  not  feel  uneasy  about  me;  I  am  in  good  health, 
and  yes,  I  am  in  good  spirits. 

Many  thousand  kisses  to  you,  my  dear  mother,  and  to 
you,  my  beloved,  my  only  sister ;  remember  me  to  all. 

I  must  close  this,  because  I  must  put  a  new  sieve  into 
our  rocker,  and  it  must  be  done  to-day,  so  that  to-mor- 
row's sunrise  shall  find  us  promptly  at  work. 

To  you,  my  father,  a  hearty  squeeze  of  the  hand  from 
your  true  son.  F. 

Long  Bar  on  the  Yuba  River,  Cal., 

May  6th  to  15th,  1852. 

My  Beloved  Ones:— I  can  well  imagine  how  anxiously 
you  await  news  from  me,  and  especially  news  about  the 
mines,  the  much-talked  of^  often-described  and — often 
vilified  mines.  So  far  I  have  not  found  time  to  describe 
them  to  you,  and  though  I  wrote  to  you  twice  from  here 
on  February  8th  and  on  April  5th— I  could  then  only  in- 
timate in  a  few  words  that  I  was  physically  well. 

But  now  I  will  not  delay  my  report  any  longer  from 
you,  and  shall  use  the  evenings  to  write  in  detail — and 
I  shall  not  mail  this  letter  until  it  has  reached  quite  a 
respectable  length.  To  do  that  will  not  be  a  difficult  task, 
since  I  have  much,  very  much,  to  tell  you.  Ere  I  pro- 
ceed, however,  I  have  to  thank  you,  to  thank  you  with 
my  whole  heart,  for  the  delight  which  your  letters  (No. 
8)  of  February  5th  have  caused  me.  Boettcher,  from 
San  Francisco,  brought  them  to  me  in  person  on  the  24th 
of  April,  a  little  after  10  o'clock  a.  m.  He  found  me  at 
work,  but  not  for  all  the  gold  in  the  world  could  I  have 
washed  another  shovelful  of  dirt.  I  ran  to  my  tent  like 
one  possessed,  and  read  the  letters,  and  read  them  over 
again  until  the  tears  obscured  my  sight  and  I  could  not 
distinguish  the  characters  any  more.  I  cannot  express 
how  glad  I  was.  Every  word,  nay  every  single  letter, 
was  a  treasure  to  me.  If  I  knew  that  my  letters  would 
give  you  the  same  pleasure  I  should  write  from  morning 
till  evening,  hard  as  writing  in  itself  is  for  me.  I  hope 
to  have  soon  another  festival  of  the  same  kind. 


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IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  20t 

The  mines  are  not  any  longer  what  they  have  been, 
even  as  late  as  a  year  ago,  and  with  all  my  heart  do  I 
pity  those  poor  fellows  who  come  here  with  the  illusion 
that  they  can  make  a  fortune  in  a  short  time,  and  that 
with  little  woTk,  too.  Tbey  look  exceedingly  blue  when 
they  see  the  daily  increasing  pile  of  rocks,  and  us  at  work 
about  them,  with  the  perspiration  streaming  down  under 
a  burning  sun,  and  that  to  make  only  poor  wages,  which 
often  stand  in  no  comparison  with  the  amount  of  work 
done. 

Nobody  with  you  seems  to  have  a  correct  idea  of 
how  the  gold  is  found  here.  The  erroneous  idea  pre- 
vails that  it  is  found  in  pieces  of  different  sizes.  By  far 
the  largest  quantity  of  gold  found  here  in  California  is 
washed  out  by  machines  of  widely  different  construction 
of  which  more  anon. 

As  there  is  a  difference  in  the  machines  used  in  wash- 
ing out  the  gold,  so  there  is  a  difference  in  the  Diggings, 
or  the  mines  proper.  They  are  divided  into  the  so  called 
Dry  Diggings  and  Water  or  Wet  Diggings.  The  former 
you  will  find  almost  everywhere  in  this  part  of  California, 
gold  being— strange  to  say— to  such  a  degree  diffused 
throughout  the  whole  soil  in  many  localities  that  wher- 
ever you  may  wash  a  pan  of  dirt,  be  it  in  the  woods  or 
in  a  meadow,  on  the  top  of  a  hill,  or  in  the  valley,  you 
will  at  least  find  one  or  two  small  *' scales"  of  gold,  or  to 
use  the  common  expression  of  the  miners,  you  will  find 
''the  color."  At  first  it  will  not  pay  you  wages,  because 
dirt  that  does  not  pay  at  least  IVo  cents  to  the  bucketful 
is  not  worth  working.  But  the  further  you  go  from  the 
low  land  into  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  richer  you  find  the 
soil;  and  dirt  that  pays  6,  8  or  10  cents  or  even  a  dollar 
to  the  bucket  is  even  now  no  rarity  in  California.  Un- 
fortunately such  localities  are  generally  so  far  away  from 
water  that  they  cannot  be  worked.  Grounds  which  are 
often  exceedingly  profitable,  but  which  can  be  worked 
only  during  the  rainy  season,  or  with  water  brought 
there  in  an  artificial  way,  are  called  Dry  Diggings. 

Gold  is  not  so  much  found  in  the  upper  region  as  fur- 


208  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ther  below  on  the  rock— the  '^bedrock"— and  to  reach 
that,  the  miner  has  often  to  dig  down  a  hundred  feet  and 
even  more;  it  is,  however,  by  no  means  certain  that  he 
will  find  gold  there,  or  in  sufficient  quantity  to  pay  him 
for  the  hard  labor  and  the  time  spent  in  getting  there. 
Often  3  or  4  men  will  work  for  a  whole  month  on  such  a 
hole,  and  when  they  reach  the  bedrock  they  find  perhaps 
30  or  40  Dollars,  which  means  that  they  have  thrown 
away  hard  labor,  time  and  money.  The  sinking  of  these 
shafts  in  the  valleys  and  ravines  is  a  lottery;  but  it  offers 
the  only  chance  here  in  California  to  become  wealthy 
with  one  stroke;  because  out  of  such  a  shaft  (they  gener- 
ally are  6  or  8  feet  square),  have  been  often  taken  forty 
or  fifty  thousand  dollars.  Gold  at  the  bottom  of  such  a 
hole,  on  the  bedrock,  is  always  found  in  coarse  pieces  of 
from  one  dollar  to  five  or  six  hundred  dollars  each,  and 
it  lays  there  in  the  crevices  and  on  the  rock,  so  that  all 
you  have  to  do  is  to  scrape  it  together  with  a  knife. 

It  is  this  prospect  which,  during  the  summer,  draws 
every  one  up  to  the  mountains;  and  so— should  I  succeed 
during  that  time  in  saving  a  few  hundred  dollars  either 
on  this  or  on  any  other  bar— I,  too,  shall  go  up  to  the  Dry 
Diggings  and  try  my  luck  there.  It  is  possible  that  I 
may  work  for  several  months  for  nothing;  yea,  I  may 
work — and  it  is  hard  work  I  assure  you — and  lose  my 
money  besides,  but  it  might  just  be  that  I  may  return 
with  several  thousand  Dollars.  Being  a  miner  now,  I 
shall  try  all  my  chances  to  make  money. 

One  kind  of  Dry  Diggings  are  the  quartz  mines.  You 
know  that  often  quartz  is  found  containing  free  gold. 
To  get  that  out  the  rock  is  reduced  to  powder  in  the  so- 
called  quartz  mill,  and  out  of  that  powder  the  gold  is 
afterwards  extracted.  You  can  imagine  that  such  a 
quartz  mill  is  expensive;  the  outlay  for  a  small  one  is 
about  twenty  thousand  dollars.  They  can  only  be  estab- 
lished where  the  quartz  is  rich.  Quartz  which  pays  less 
than  5  cents  per  pound  will  not  ]^ay  for  crushing. 

Tlie  connecting  link  botwccu  the  Dry  Diggings  and 
the  AVet  Diggings  are  the  Ravine  Diggings.    Tlie  ravines 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  209 

which  drain  the  water  from  the  springs  to  the  river  are 
often  found  to  be  rich  in  gold,  and  so  it  pays  well  at 
times  to  work  them;  but  this  also  can  only  be  done  during 
the  rainy  season,  because  in  the  summer  and  even  in  the 
spring,  they  are  perfectly  dry.  The  gold  found  there  is 
generally  in  fine  scales,  or  in  small  pieces  of  the  size  of  a 
pin-head,  and  is  only  found  in  the  uppermost  region, 
about  1  or  2  feet  below  the  surface.  The  more  rocky  and 
the  harder  the  ground,  the  more  gold  it  usually  contains; 
light  soil  with  but  few  rocks  in  it  will  not  pay  wages,  not 
once  in  a  hundred  times. 

And  now  to  the  Water  Diggings  or  to  the  so-called 
River  Bars. 

You  can  get  the  best  idea  what  a  bar  is,  if  you  think 
of  the  bleaching  ground  in  Bartenstein;  but  instead  of 
the  grass,  there  are  at  the  bar  only  sand  and  rocks,  simi- 
lar to  the  sea  shore.  Such  bars,  alternately  larger  and 
smaller,  are  found  one  after  the  other,  on  either  one  or 
the  other  side  of  the  river,  just  as  it  changes  its  course, 
and  they  are  on  nearly  all  the  rivers  of  North  America 
wherever  they  emerge  from  the  mountains,  when  they 
begin  to  flow  less  swiftly  and  consequently  can  deposit 
the  sand  and  the  stones  which  the  rapid  current  has  torn 
loose  in  the  mountains.  The  higher  up  in  the  mountains, 
the  smaller  and  the  more  rocky  are  the  bars,  and  the 
more  coarse  and  heavy  is  the  gold  found  there— the  fur- 
ther down  the  stream,  the  broader  and  the  more  sandy  is 
the  bar,  and  the  finer  and  lighter  the  gold. 

You  are  aware  that  I  have  as  yet  not  seen  much  of  the 
different  mining  districts  of  California;  but  I  feel  confi- 
dent that,  if  I  succeed  in  giving  you  a  good  description 
of  Long  Bar,  where  I  am  working  now,  and  of  a  miner's 
life  and  work,  you  can  form  a  correct  idea  of  the 
bars  in  general,  because  in  the  main  they  all  resemble 
each  other,  and  the  life  of  a  miner  is  the  same  on  all  of 
them. 

Long  Bar  is  one  of  the  lowest  bars  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Yuba  river,  a  tril)utary  to  the  Feather  river,  and 
is  distant  from  Marysviile  about  20  English  miles ;  a  very 


210  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

good  and  much  frequented  country  road  leads  to  that 
place.  Long  Bar  extends  for  about  a  mile  up  the  river 
and  is  divided  into  three  parts,  viz.:  *'Big  Bar,"  so- 
called  on  account  of  its  former  richness,  miners  making 
even  as  late  as  the  last  year  from  12  to  20  Dollars  per 
day;  then  ''the  Flat,"  a  level  sandy  piece  of  ground  200 
or  300  yards  wide,  covered  with  a  growth  of  short  grass 
on  such  places  as  are  not  worked  by  miners,  and  where 
these  find  but  little  gold,  seldom  more  than  2  cents  to  the 
bucket;  and  lastly  the  lower  end  of  the  bar— "Island 
Bar" — evidently  formerly  an  island,  since  between  it  and 
the  higher  ground  one  can  yet  plainly  see  the  old  river 
bed,  even  now  in  autunm,  winter  and  spring  full  of  water. 
This  old  river  bed  is  called  ''the  slough."  The  banks 
of  this  slough  are  covered  with  brush,  just  as  the  some- 
what more  elevated  center  of  it,  which,  however,  also 
shows  a  few  stunted  oaks  and  pines.  Elsewhere  on  the 
island  one  will  not  notice  anything  but  naked  piles  of 
rocks— desolation  itself. 

Tlie  tents  of  the  miners,  the  stores  and  boarding  houses, 
are  not  put  up  on  the  bar  itself,  but  upon  higher  gromid, 
on  the  bank  of  the  river,  which  is  about  as  high  as  the 
"Veilchenberge"  (Violet  Hills)  on  the  "Neue  Bleiche" 
near  Konigsberg— and  where  they  form  a  continuous 
irregular  line,  so  that  the  whole  looks  like  a  village  of 
tents— about  300  of  them— picturesquely  scattered  and 
partly  hidden  among  brushwood  and  trees. 

Behind  the  tents  the  ground  rises  again  to  a  second 
terrace,  about  as  high  as  the  first,  thus  forming  a  gently 
sloping  elevation  covered  with  short  grass,  and  here  and 
there  a  bit  of  brushwood;  the  ridge  itself  being  a  con- 
stant change  of  gently  undulating  hills  and  dales,  and  the 
whole  forming  the  outermost  link  between  the  Sierra 
Nevada  and  the  vast,  boundless  savanna,  where  the 
mighty  Sacramento— a  stream  as  broad  as  the  Elbe— in 
its  slow  course  absorbs  its  numerous  tributaries. 

One  can  hardly  imagine  such  a  variety  of  lovely  land- 
scapes as  are  shown  in  this  part  of  the  country,  especially 
DOW,  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  when  numerous  rivulets 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  211 

rush  through  the  ravines  between  overhanging  boughs, 
and  the  gigantic  evergreen  California  oaks  and  aged 
pines  show  in  their  aromatic  twigs  the  brightest  verdure. 
The  country  is  not  what  we  call  woody;  the  trees  stand 
about  30  or  40  feet  apart,  so  that  their  outer  branches 
hardly  touch  each  other.  The  ground  between  them  is 
entirely  free  from  underbrush,  but  is  covered  with  a 
dense  growth  of  soft  grass,  forming  a  carpet  which  is  in- 
terwoven with  the  brightest  and  most  fragrant  flowers. 
These  flowers  which  rival  the  flowers  in  your  gardens  in 
the  splendor  of  their  colors,  but  surpass  them  in  fra- 
grance, often  cover  the  ground  so  completely  that  they 
even  hide  the  grass;  and  in  the  cooling  shade  of  these 
oaks  one  often  walks  for  hundreds  of  yards,  and  walks 
literally  on  a  carpet  of  flowers.  This  belt  of  undulating 
country,  never  losing  its  character,  is  crossed  by  beauti- 
ful rivulets,  here  meandering  between  low  brushwood 
over  a  gravelly  bed,  or  there  rushing  in  cascades  over 
moss  grown  rocks  towards  the  Yuba.  For  miles  and 
miles  around  us  the  country  shows  these  charming  fea- 
tures, which  though  on  the  whole  always  the  same,  con- 
stantly present  themselves  to  the  eye  in  a  different  and 
—if  possible — more  enchanting  form.  If  I  had  to  select 
some  scenery  near  my  old  home,  in  order  to  give  you  an 
idea  about  the  country  surrounding  Long  Bar,  I  should 
select  the  Simser  Valley  near  Meilsberg,  where  the 
"holy"  lindentree  stands;  in  looking  at  that  scene  there, 
think  of  gigantic  oaks  here,  and  of  the  indescribable 
aroma  of  millions  of  flowers,  so  strong  that  at  times  it 
almost  overcomes  you.  But  come  with  me ;  it  is  Saturday 
evening,  and  I  wish  to  take  my  usual  walk. 

We  ascend  to  the  second  terrace  above  Long  Bar,  which 
I  mentioned  before,  and  follow  a  serpentine  trail  which, 
running  through  the  most  charming  natural  park,  brings 
us  in  about  fifteen  minutes  to  the  top  of  a  high  hill,  a 
somewhat  higher  point  than  the  surrounding  country. 
It  is  covered  with  brushwood,  through  which  we  have  to 
find  our  way  ere  we  reach  the  summit;  through  this  the 
bed-rock  has  forced  its  way  in  the  shape  of  two  mighty 


212  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

bowlders  of  granite,  •wonderfully  resembling  in  sliapo 
and  size  the  Borstenstein  at  Neu-Kiiliren,  only  that  they 
tower  higher  above  yon  by  about  15  feet.  We  climb  up 
to  the  top  of  the  larger  of  the  two,  and  from  here  we  have 
a  good  view  of  the  surrounding  countiy. 

Our  view  towards  the  North  does  not  extend  very  far. 
Near  us  a  small  rivulet  passes  in  its  winding  course  on 
towards  the  Yuba,  now  in  plain  view  falling  over  gray 
rocks,  then  disappearing  among  brush,  to  come  to  light 
again  as  a  lakelet,  bedded  in  banks  of  flowers,  its  ciystal 
surface  reflecting  the  purple  clouds  above.  Another 
cun^e  and  it  is  again  out  of  sight.  This  is  "Dry  Creek." 
Its  steep  bank  on  yonder  side  bars  your  view  in  that  di- 
rection, and  so  we  turn  towards  the  East. 

Here,  terrace  upon  terrace,  rise  the  hills,  higher  and 
higher,  steeper  and  steeper,  and  more  and  more  densely 
wooded,  until  we  gaze  in  the  far  distance  upon  the  peaks 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  covered  with  eternal  snow  and  ice, 
and  now  bathed  in  violet  tints  of  the  setting  sun.  The 
character  of  the  landscape  in  this  direction  is  melancholy, 
almost  sad;  nothing  animate,  no  human  habitation  in 
sight;  mountains  upon  mountains,  and  only  high  above 
in  the  air  you  may  at  times  see  an  eagle,  hardly  visible 
to  the  naked  eye,  slowly  sailing  in  circles  in  the  clear  at- 
mosphere; or  perhaps  from  yonder  tree  the  shrill  screech 
of  a  raven  may  at  times  reach  your  ear. 

Towards  the  South  we  have  the  whole  bar  before  us 
from  end  to  end.  Among  the  gloomy,  desolate-looking 
piles  of  rocks,  which,  however,  at  this  moment,  bathed  in 
a  rosy  tint  of  the  evening  sun,  appear  in  their  best  light, 
we  see  yet  here  and  there  an  exceptionally  industrious 
miner.  The  most  of  them,  however,  are  at  this  moment 
climbing  up  to  their  tents,  carrying  in  their  arms  the  tin 
pans  with  the  gold,  which  they  have  taken  out  during  the 
day— their  wages  gained  by  hard  labor.  Nearer  to  us, 
on  this  side  of  the  bar  and  glistening  white  among  the 
green  foliage,  you  see  the  tents;  and  out  of  the  chimneys 
here  and  there  you  will  notice  the  smoke  curling  up,  a 
sign  that  the  occupant  is  busy  preparing  his  fnigal  eve- 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  213 

ning  meal.  Yonder  the  Yuba  — a  river  now  in  tlie  spring 
fully  as  broad  as  the  Pregel — lines  the  bar  as  with  a  band 
of  silver,  and  its  bank  beyond  with  the  same  character- 
istics you  observe  on  this  side,  ends  the  panorama  in 
that  direction. 

And  now  a  look  toward  the  West  over  the  broad,  level 
savanna,  where  the  Yuba  empties  into  the  Feather  river, 
and  this  again  further  on  into  the  Sacramento.  This  im- 
mense plain  extends  almost  without  any  interruption  up 
to  the  chain  of  mountains,  which  line  the  Pacific  coast, 
far  beyond  our  horizon.  The  vista  is  broken  by  the 
*'Butes"  only— eight  or  ten  conical  mountains,  six  or 
eight  hundred  feet  high,  rising  abruptly  out  of  the  plain 
between  the  Sacramento  and  Feather  rivers,  and  close  to 
one  another,  but  separated  by  deep  ravines,  whose  bot- 
toms are  densely  wooded — the  abode  of  numberless  griz- 
zly bears. 

I  feel,  nay  I  am  convinced,  that  my  description  of  the 
scenery  here  cannot  impress  you  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
do  it  justice.  If,  however,  you  were  to  read  it  on  a  mild, 
fair  evening  in  summer,  somewhere  in  the  quiet,  pleasant 
Simserthal,  you  might  conceive  a  better  idea  of  what  it 
really  is.    Now  let  us  return  to  the  Bar. 

I  told  you  before  that  gold  is  washed  out  by  different 
kinds  of  machines.  Here  at  the  bar  there  are  four  dif- 
ferent kinds  in  use.  The  Eocker  or  Cradle,  the  Bull- 
rocker,  the  simple  and  the  double  Long  Tom. 

Anyone  who  prefers  to  remain  by  himself  and  wants 
to  do  without  a  partner,  has  to  use  the  rocker,  because 
the  last  named  three  machines  cannot  be  worked  by  one 
man  alone,  but  require  more  hands.  The  rocker  or  cra- 
dle, as  some  call  it,  with  which  I,  too,  have  worked,  is  a 
1)ox  18  inches  wide  and  41/2  or  5  feet  long.  It  rests  slight- 
ly inclining  forward  on  two  runners,  or  rockers,  so  that 
by  means  of  a  handle  (a),  which  is  fastened  to  its  left 
side,  it  may  easily  be  rocked  just  like  a  cradle.  On  top 
of  the  rear  end,  i.  e.,  the  higher  end  of  the  rocker,  is  a 
sieve  (b),  made  of  sheet  iron  about  two  feet  long  and  of 
the  same  width  as  the  rocker,  which  can  be  removed. 


214  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Below  this  sieve  and  slanting  toward  the  rear  end,  is 
placed  the  so-called  "apron"  (c),  made  of  strong  cot- 
ton cloth  and  fastened  to  a  frame.  The  object  of  this  is 
to  conduct  everything  that  goes  through  the  sieve  to  the 

rear  end  of  the  rocker. 
The  drawing  here  will 
help  to  make  you  under- 
stand that.  The  for- 
ward or  lower  end  of 
the  box  is  open,  only  a 
narrow  lath  —  l^^  or 
ly^  inches  wide  —  is 
nailed  across  it  at  the 
bottom;  this  is  called  the  "riffle."  The  modus  op- 
erandi is  very  simple.  A  bucketful  of  dirt,  with  stones 
and  all,  just  as  you  have  loosened  it  with  the  pick,  is 
thrown  on  the  sieve,  and  then  while  you  set  the 
rocker  in  motion  with  the  left  hand,  with  a  dipper  in  your 
right  you  pour  water  over  the  dirt  on  the  sieve.  As  soon 
as  the  soil  is  washed  off  the  stones  these  are  thrown  out 
and  a  second  bucket  of  dirt  is  thrown  on  the  sieve,  and 
this  again  is  treated  like  the  first,  and  so  on  until  you 
have  washed  about  20  or  25  bucketfuls.  By  the  motion  of 
the  rocker  the  gold  and  heavy  sand  are  collected  on  its 
bottom,  while  the  lighter  stuff  is  washed  off  over  the  rif- 
fle; this  lighter  stuff  we  call  "tailings."  The  residue 
which  has  collected  on  the  bottom  of  the  rocker  is  now 
very  carefully  scraped  together  at  the  rear  end  of  it,  is 
then  treated  again  to  three  or  four  washings,  and  now 
we  have  the  gold  mixed  only  with  some  black  ferruginous 
sand,  but  free  from  all  other  matter;  it  is  now  taken  up 
and  thrown  into  a  tin  or  sheet-iron  pan— a  pan  about  4 
inches  deep,  in  diameter  about  16  inches  on  top  and  12 
inches  at  the  bottom.  The  last  work  before  evening  is 
tlien  to  wash  in  this  pan  the  black  sand  off  the  gold,  a 
procedure  requiring  much  dexterity,  the  sand  being  al- 
most as  heavy  as  the  gold  itself,  so  that  one  not  used  to 
the  work,  is  apt  to  wash  away  gold  and  sand  together. 
Any  grains  of  sand  which,  on  account  of  their  being  too 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  315 

heavy,  we  cannot  separate  from  the  gold  by  washing, 
we  get  rid  of  by  first  drying  the  whole  thoroughly;  then 
we  put  it  on  a  small  tray  and  blow  the  sand  away. 

In  reading  this  description  you  will  not  think  that  our 
labor  is  as  heavy  as  it  really  is.  Believe  me,  it  is  as  ex- 
acting, mechanical  labor  as  can  be  done;  and  is  intensely 
so  to  one  not  accustomed  to  manual  labor.  The  hard 
stony  soil  has  first  to  be  loosened  with  a  pick;  then  the 
larger  stones— often  so  heavy  that  they  can  hardly  be 
moved,  have  to  be  rolled  aside;  next  the  dirt  must  be 
shoveled  together,  and  must  then  be  carried  to  the  rock- 
er. Now  consider  that  we  have  to  remove  the  top  dirt 
before  we  reach  the  soil  in  which  we  find  the  gold;  (on 
the  place  where  I  am  at  work  now  I  have  to  remove  5  or 
6  feet  of  rocks — at  times  even  more)  that  I  have  to  carry 
daily  40  or  50  pails  of  water  a  distance  of  from  200  to 
300  yards  over  rough,  loose  rocks,  that  we  have  to  work 
in  narrow  holes  or  shafts  from  6  to  10  feet  deep,  where 
one  never  feels  a  draught  of  air,  but  where  he  is  exposed 
to  a  sun  so  hot  that  he  can  hardly  touch  the  stones  with 
his  hand;  if  you  think  of  that  you  will  concede  that  to 
chop  wood  is  in  comparison  with  this,  justly  considered 
to  be  light  work.  But  one  gets  used  to  everything,  and 
so  have  I  got  used  to  this  work,  which  now  is  not  half  as 
hard  on  me  as  it  was  at  first,  though  I  am  able  to  do  al- 
most as  much  again  as  I  did  at  first.  But  I  have  made 
it  a  rule  not  to  over-exert  myself ;  whenever  I  am  tired  or 
do  not  feel  like  working  I  stop;  I  always  bear  in  mind 
that  my  health  is  my  only  capital,  which  I  have  to  hus- 
band most  carefully.  Yet  I  am  making  more  money  than 
many  others,  because  I  attend  to  my  work  in  an  even 
way  without  hurrying  or  exerting  myself  too  much. 

Almost  of  the  same  construction  as  the  rocker  above 
described  is  the  ''bullrocker,"  only  with  this  difference 
that  it  is  larger,  generally  2  feet  wide  and  about  6  feet 
long,  and  that  the  iron  sieve  which  covers  the  whole 
length  of  it  is  open  at  the  lower  end,  so  that  the  rocks 
after  being  washed  will  by  the  motion  of  the  rocker  drop 
off  by  themselves,  and  the  sieve  needs  not  to  be  emptied 
by  hand,  as  with  the  small  rocker. 


216  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

The  smgle  ''Long  Tom"  consists  of  a  wooden  box,  open 
at  the  lower  end,  12  or  15  feet  long  and  about  12  inches 
wide— the  so-called  "sluice  box."  Tlie  lower  end  of  this 
is  placed  on  a  sieve,  which  is  usually  6  feet  long  and  2Vi: 
feet  wide.  About  15  inches  below  this  sieve  is  placed  the 
riffle  box,  which  is  of  the  same  width,  but  about  8  feet 
long,  and  divided  into  two  parts  by  nailing  a  piece  of  lath 
about  iy2  or  1%  inches  wide  across  it;  the  rear  portion  is 
about  5  feet,  the  front  portion  about  3  feet  long.  It  re- 
quires 3  men  to  work  a  Long  Tom.  Two  of  them  loosen 
the  gTound  and  throw  it  into  the  sluice  box,  into  which  a 
stream  of  water  is  conducted  which  in  washing  the  rocks 
carries  them  also  forward  and  on  the  sieve.    On  this  sieve 


the  stones  collect,  and  from  here  the  third  man  removes 
them  with  a  shovel;  everything  else  goes  through  the 
sieve  and  into  the  riffle  box,  where  the  gold  and  the  black 
sand  are  deposited,  while  the  lighter  stuff  is  carried  off 
as  tailings.  With  these  machines  you  have  the  advan- 
tage that  you  are  able  to  wash  a  great  deal  of  soil  with 
them.  While  one  man  alone  can  with  a  rocker,  under 
the  most  favorable  conditions,  when  water  is  close  by  and 
the  dirt  easily  picked,  wash  at  best  only  about  250  bucket- 
fuls,  3  men  v;ith  a  Long  Tom  can  easily  handle  from  12 
toi  15  hundred  bucketfuls. 

Tlie  Double  Long  Tom  differs  from  the  single  only  in 
that  it  has  two  sieves  instead  of  one— a  second  a«d  fmer 
sieve  being  placed  about  6  or  8  inches  below  the  first, 
and  that  the  riffle  box,  instead  of  two  is  divided  into  3  or 
4  parts,  the  two  at  the  rear  end  being  placed  about  G 
inches  higher  than  those  in  front.  The  Double  Long  Tom 
is  mostly  used  where  very  fine  gold  is  found,  which  it 
more  effectuallv  saves  than  do  the  other  machines. 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  317 

Such  are  the  tools  we  work  with ;  they  are  rather  rough 
and  lorimitive;  and  rough  and  primitive  is  the  life  we 
lead.  (The  theory  on  which  they  work  is  based  on  the 
fact  that  gold  is  heavier  than  sand  or  rocks.) 

Up  to  the  beginning  of  last  month  I  took  board  and 
lodging  at  one  of  the  boarding  houses  here,  for  which 
I  had  to  pay  eight  dollars  per  week.  Since  then  I  live  by 
myself  and  do  my  own  cooking,  and  that  costs  me  hardly 
four  dollars  a  week.  I  am  certain  mother  and  Marie  will 
ask  here  together:  but  what  does  he  cook?  Answer:  the 
same  things  that  every  one  else  here  in  the  mines  cooks. 
Pancakes  (here  called  slapjacks)  made  of  flour,  water  and 
lard;  dumplings,  beans,  gruel,  rice  and  dry  fruits  are 
about  all  we  can  have  here.  Beefsteaks  are  too  expensive, 
and  for  this  reason  I  eat  them  but  seldom,  and  so  are 
potatoes  at  10  cents  a  pound;  bread  I  use  only  occasion- 
ally, for  instance,  when  I  have  a  visitor. 

I  live  in  a  tent  which,  however,  does  not  belong  to  me 
but  to  a  Southern  German,  an  elderly  man,  who,  while  out 
hunting  in  November  last,  had  the  misfoitune  to  wound 
himself  so  severely  in  the  right  foot — the  gun  going  off 
accidentally — that  even  now  he  can  use  it  but  very  little, 
and  is  still  unable  to  work.  He  occupies  the  tent  with 
me.  In  front  of  my  tent  and  close  by  the  road  is  a  store 
and  boarding  house,  kept  by  a  young  American  of  Ger- 
man descent.  My  other  neighbors  are  a  ship  carpenter 
from  Hamburg  and  Carl  Kamke,  a  sailor  from  Dantzig, 
with  his  partner,  an  old  Hollander.  But  though  I  live 
here  in  a  "German  comer"  you  would  not  hear  any  more 
German  spoken  around  us  than  anywhere  else  on  the  bar, 
because  strange  as  it  may  seem  it  is  nevertheless  true  thai 
the  Germans  here,  even  when  among  themselves,  give 
preference  to  the  "American"  language.  There  are  men 
here  with  whom  I  have  been  in  daily  intercourse  for 
months  before  I  found  out  that  they  are  Germans. 

I  think  that  nowhere  in  the  world  are  the  characteris- 
tics of  a  man  so  fully  developed  as  here  in  the  mines. 
Eveiyone  lives  according  to  his  own  fashion  or  liking 
without  paying  any  attention  to  the  ways  of  his  neigh- 


218  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

bor,  and  that  is  just  what  makes  life  in  the  mines  so  free 
and  pleasant.    There  is  no  distinction  of  rank;  everj^body 
is  his  own  boss;  I  do  not  meddle  with  anybody's  affairs 
just  as  nobody  else  would  dare  to  interfere  with  mine. 
The  inanner  in  which  one  man  approaches  another  is 
characteristic  of  the  life  here.    The  usual  way  of  address- 
ing a  young  man  is  to  call  him  *'boy;"  or  one  man  calls 
another  in  a  joking  way  ' '  Captain  "  or  "  Boots. ' '    The  lat- 
ter nickname  they  here  give  to  one  another  on  account 
of  the  high  boots  which  everj^body  wears.     Generally, 
however,  people  address  one  another  by  their  first  names, 
and  you  may  be  acquainted  with  a  man  for  years  without 
ever  learning  his  family  name  or  anything  about  his  pri- 
vate affairs.     But  since  many  men  have  the  same  first 
name  they  are  distinguished  from  one  another  by  cer- 
tain epithets,  and  by  these  they  are  known  at  the  bar. 
There  is,  for  instance,  a  ''long  Johnny"  and  a  ''little 
Johnny,"  a  "Swedish  Johnny"  and  a  "Johnny  Snakes." 
The  latter  received  his  nickname  on  account  of  his  being 
often  drunk;  and  when  a  man  gets  drunk  they  say  that 
lie    is    "looking   for    snakes."      Then    there   is  a  "red 
Johnny"  and  a  "blue  Johnny,"  according  to  the  color 
of    their    shirts.     I    myself — to    distinguish    me    from 
another    namesake,    am    called    "Doctor    Frank"    or 
"Colonel  Frank."     Corresponding  to  this  free  mode  of 
addressing  one  another  is  the  ordinary  daily  intercourse; 
nothing   is    easier    than    to    get    acquainted    with    one 
another,  yet  without  ever  becoming  intimate,  in  one  word 
—"sailor-like"    well    describes    the    whole    situation. 
Everywhere  you  hear  people  laugh,  joke  or  sing,  and  if 
you  ask  anybody:  "how  goes  it?"— ninety-nine  times  out 
of  a  hundred  he  will  answer  you:    "First  xate,"  that  is, 
excellently. 

Tliough  most  of  the  miners  have  been  sailors  or  are 
men  used  to  manual  labor,  there  is  no  lack  of  represent- 
atives  of  the  educated  class.  I  am  acquainted  here  with 
several  fonner  clerks  and  supercargoes,  one  lawyer,  a 
Greek,  formerly  an  officer  of  engineers,  a  professor  from 
the  University  of  Strassburg,  etc.    My  best  friend,  how- 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  219 

ever,  and  he  has  proved  himself  to  be  such  indeed,  is  and 
always  will  be  that  sailor  from  Dantzig,  whom  I  men- 
tioned before,  Oiarley  ,  commonly  called  Charley 

Long  Tom,  because  he  works  with  me  on  such  a  machine ; 
a  square  shouldered  fellow,  face  and  mustache  a  brownish 
red;  *'an  old  miner,"  which  is  to  say,  that  in  his  whole 
appearance  he  resembles  more  a  highwayman  than  any- 
thing else.  I  am  certain  that  if  ten  or  twelve  of  us  were 
to  show  ourselves  on  the  road  anywhere  in  Prussia, 
dressed  and  equipped  as  we  are  here,  with  blankets  rolled 
up  and  rifles  on  our  shoulders,  the  military  would  be 
called  out  at  once  to  place  the  dangerous  vagabonds  be- 
hind locks  and  bars. 

Our  dress  is  sailor-like,  suitable  to  the  hot  climate;  a 
red  or  blue  flannel  shirt,  gray  corduroy  trousers  fastened 
above  the  hips  with  a  leather  belt  or  silk  scarf,  wherein 
also  a  long  knife  is  carried,  or — when  away  from  home — 
a  revolver;  high  waterproof  boots,  and  either  a  broad- 
brimmed  brown  felt  or  a  straw  hat.  Now  think  of  such  a 
suit  being  tattered  and  patched  up  ever^^where,  for  in- 
stance on  a  blue  shirt  a  red  patch,  or  on  gray  pantaloons 
a  black  and  next  to  that  a  light  green  patch;  the  whole 
person  from  head  to  foot  bespattered  with  mud,  and  you 
have  the  miner  in  his  nevertheless  highly  picturesque 
costume. 

Notwithstanding  all  this,  I  am  satisfied,  more  than  sat- 
isfied, with  my  lot.  This  free  life,  so  full  of  charm  be- 
cause free,  and  without  the  slightest  restraint,  the  sur- 
rounding country  a  perfect  paradise,  the  work  heavy,  but 
in  a  manner  voluntaiy— as  one  day's  labor  gives  me 
enough  to  satisfy  my  wants  for  a  whole  week— this  same 
free  life  refreshes  me  physically  and  mentally!  Day  by 
day  I  feel  more  vigorous,  more  easy  and  more  cheerful, 
and  if  this  is  to  continue  I  shall  within  a  year  be  as 
healthy  a  man  as  there  is  in  God's  world!  Even  tooth- 
ache I  have  not  had  since  I  put  my  foot  on  California 's 
soil.  And  indeed  how  strong  have  I  become!  You  ought 
to  see  the  rocks  I  have  to  move  or  lift  every  day;  some 
of  them  are  large  enough  to  scare  the  devil — if  he  were 
compelled  to  lift  them! 


230  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

It  looks  now  as  if  we  were  going  to  have  continued  fair 
weather.  If  this  shoiikl  be  so,  I  shall  soon  again  have 
some  money  in  my  pocket.  Since  my  last  letter  (April 
5th)  I  have  paid  all  my  debts,*  and  have  about  thirty 
dollars  left— not  much,  but  it  is  something— at  any  rate 
better  than  nothing. 

I  do  not  know  yet  if  I  shall  remain  all  summer  on  this 
bar;  to  be  honest  I  must  confess  that  the  delight  of  travel- 
ing makes  me  restless  again;  I  shall  be  guided  by  circum- 
stances. To  determine  here  upon  a  trip  of — say — three, 
four  or  five  hundred  miles,  and  to  start  upon  it  is  usually 
all  done  within  an  hour;  all  a  man  has  to  do  is  to  roll  up 
his  blankets,  and  with  a  couple  of  shirts  and  an  ax,  and 
his  rifle  on  his  shoulder  he  is  ready  to  rove  through  Cali- 
fornia in  any  diTcction.  I  am  thinking  of  going  to  the 
Trinity  river,  a  tributary  to  the  Klamath  in  Oregon.  The 
river  is  rich  and  has  been  mined  but  little;  a  great  many 
are  afraid  of  the  climate;  the  winter  there  brings  snow 
and  ice. 

Ere  I  finish  this  I  glance  again  at  your  letter.  You 
ask  me,  my  dear  father,  if  the  sun  has  not  bronzed  me 
considerably  and  add  that  that  would  form  a  nice  con- 
trast with  my  blond  hair.  Yes— I  am  bronzed  consid- 
erably, but— I  am  sorry  to  say— the  contrast  is  not 
very  pleasing,  because  the  color  of  my  sunburnt  skin 
is  of  such  an  infernal  dirty  yellowish  hue  that  anywhere 
in  Europe  I  would  be  suspected  of  not  having  touched 
soap  and  water  for  at  least  six  months,  and  that  is  any- 
thing but  pleasant. 

Thanks  for  the  latest  news  from  papers.    How  glad  I 


^Through  an  inundation  caused  by  a  rapid  risinq^  of  the  river 
(the  Yuba  rose  about  15  feet)  the  writer  lost  all  he  had,  and 
was  even  in  danger  of  losing  his  life  during  several  hours.  To 
supply  himself  again  with  the  most  indispensable  things  at  exorbi- 
tant prices  however,  a  rocker  at  24  dollars,  a  shovel  at  six,  a  pick 
at  four  and  one-half  dollars,  and  everything  else  at  the  same 
rate ;  and  having  been  severely  hurt  on  his  right  foot  and  thereby 
confined  to  bed  for  several  weeks,  the  writer  of  the  letter  was 
compelled  to  borrow  some  money. 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  321 

am  that  I  can  drink  deep  from  nature  here  in  my  Cali- 
fomian  paradise,  and  that  I  can  turn  my  back  on  politics. 

Poor  *  *  *  is  really  to  be  pitied,  though  I  am  not 
surprised  at  her  fate.  It  is  well  for  her  that  she  has 
found  a  home,  and  perhaps  assistance  with  her  sisters; 
yet  it  is  hard,  after  having  been  independent,  to  become 
dependent  again  upon  others,  and  to  have  to  live  on 
charity;  for  charity  it  is,  though  it  be  the  charity  of  lov- 
ing relatives. 

Marie's  friends  are  going  off  rapidly,  I  see.  And  so 
*"  *  *  got  married!  Girls  are  said  to  be  desirous  of 
marrying,  and  Heine  says :  ' '  *  *  *  married  just  out 
of  sheer  spite  the  first  man  she  came  across."  But  this 
time  it  seems  the  desire  has  been  with  one  of  our  own 
sex.  How  could  a  man  marry  *  *  *  ?  Why,  he  must 
be  an  imbecile !  AVith  my  whole  heart  do  I  congratulate 
*  *  *  however.  It  is  true  she  had  her  faults,  but  they 
were  few,  and  who  of  us  is  entirely  free  from  them?  I 
have  no  doubt  by  this  time  she  has  become  more  sensible. 
Usually  no  pretty  girl  becomes  endurable  before  her 
18tli  year,  or  sensible  before  her  22d.  Ugly  girls  be- 
come so  before  that  time.  Her  intended,  it  seems  to  me, 
is  one  of  those  young  men  of  whom  it  takes  just  twelve 
to  make  a  dozen.  I  believe,  however,  that  he  is  just  of 
the  sort  that  furnishes  the  best  husbands.  Of  all  the  girls 
poor  *  *  *  lias  chosen  the  better  part.  Death  has 
summoned  her  just  at  the  right  time;  ere  she  had  to  face 
the  troubles  and  distress  which  would  surely  have  sent 
her  to  an  early  grave,  after  having  chosen  such  a  com- 
panion for  life.  Many  a  poor  wife — now  slowly  wasting 
away  in  anguish— will  envy  *  *  *'s  lot  which  appears 
sad  only  at  first. 

I  am  glad  tO'  hear  that  Carl  is  doing  well  as  an  agricul- 
turist. If  he  were  not  maiTied  yet  and  out  of  business 
I  should  advise  him  to  come  out  here  at  once.  Strong 
and  active  as  he  is,  he  would  do  well  here,  especially  if 
he  had  some  ready  money.  As  yet  there  is  little  farm- 
ing done,  but  farmers  here  have  it  much  easier  than  in 
the  eastern  states,  since  the  ground  is  easier  worked,  and 


222  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

it  is  less  difficult  to  find  a  market  for  their  produce,  and 
at  better  prices  too;  and  all  that  with  scarcely  any  heavier 
expenses  than  there.  With  ten  or  twelve  hundred  dol- 
lars one  can  start  a  farm,  because  the  most  splendid  soil 
will  not  cost  him  anything,  and  he  can  take  as  much  land 
as  he  pleases ;  all  the  law  requires  is  that  he  should  put 
a  fence  around  it  and  that  proves  possession. 

Speaking  about  fanning  reminds  me  of  a  subject  I 
came  near  forgetting,  though  I  know  you  wish  to 
hear  about  it,  namely,  the  Indians.  They  roam  about 
the  country  in  large  bands,  steal  like  ravens,  but  are 
otherwise  peaceable,  and  if  a  man  be  alone  and  should 
happen  to  fall  in  with  them,  he  need  not  be  uneasy  as  long 
as  their  greediness  does  not  get  the  better  of  them.  The 
Indians  here  dress  in  a  half  civilized  way;  they  wear  flan- 
nel shirts  and  at  times  even  pantaloons  and  boots.  The 
squaws,  that  is,  the  Indian  women,  wear  short  striped 
petticoats,  and  around  the  shoulders  they  throw  a  large 
shawl  of  the  brightest  colors,  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
Mexican  women.  I  can  not  say  that  they  are  a  handsome 
race.  They  are  of  small  stature,  and  their  broad,  flat 
faces  are  void  of  expression.  Men  and  women  alike  wear 
their  long,  coarse,  black  hair  tied  behind  into  a  thick 
knot,  and  ornament  it  in  an  odd  manner  with  gaudy 
feathers,  silver  and  gold  tinsel,  red  rags,  etc. 

A  few  days  ago  I  happened  to  get  amongst  a  whole 
tribe  of  them.  I  had  taken  a  walk  to  Independence  Flat, 
about  six  miles  below  here,  to  see  Boettcher  and  Griin- 
hagen,  who  are  at  work  there.  On  returning  in  the  even- 
ing and  taking  a  straight  cut  through  the  woods  I  met 
about  thirty  of  them,  all  armed  with  long  knives  and  with 
bows  and  arrows.  They  were  very  friendly,  invited  me  to 
sit  down  near  their  fire  and  to  have  a  drink  and  a  smoke 
with  them.  My  spectacles  became  an  object  of  especial 
interest  to  them,  and  caused  many  an  **Ugli"  and  ''Oh.'* 
Several  of  them  even  put  them  on  their  noses,  and  then 
very  gravely  shook  their  heads  and  returned  them  to  me. 

In  parenthesis,  I  would  like  to  ask  a  certain  young  lady 
a  question,  supposing  that  she  should  see  this  letter,  and 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  333 

that  she  should  remember  the  young  man  and  his  toilet, 
who  had  the  honor  to  open  the  last  ball  with  her  at  the 
"Clei'ks'  Club"  in  1851.  I  wonder  if  in  that  sunburnt 
fellow,  looking  somewhat  like  a  gipsy  with  his  boots  cov- 
ered with  mud,  his  coarse  flannel  shirt,  knife  and  revolver 
in  his  belt,  as  he  stretched  himself  under  that  old  oak 
tree,  the  short  black  clay  pipe  between  his  teeth,  and  in 
front  of  him  a  blazing  fire  of  brushwood  sending  up  its 
flames  and  throwing  a  flickering  light  on  him  and  on  the 
wild,  shaggy  figures  of  the  red  men  around  him,  I  won- 
der if  she  would  have  recognized  in  him  her  former  part- 
ner in  evening  dress?  I  asked  myself  that  question  on 
that  evening,  and  I  had  a  good  laugh  to  myself  about  the 
difference  in  my  outward  appearance  then  and  now. 

Well,  this  will  do  for  the  present.  Boettcher  is  here 
and  asks  me  to  close,  so  that  we  may  send  our  letters  to- 
gether to  San  Francisco,  and  from  there  onward  to  our 
beloved  ones  at  home.  Believe  me— considering  circum- 
stances—I am  happy  and  contented  and  perfectly  well.  I 
would  feel  entirely  comfortable  here  if  I  had  not  left  my 
heart  at  home. 

Write  often  to  me;  even  about  the  most  insignificant 
daily  occurrences  and  trifles.  You  have  no  idea  how 
they  all  interest  me.  From  Rosenstock  and  from  Carl  I 
hope  soon  to  receive  full  reports  about  my  acquaintances 
in  Konigsberg. 

As  a  curiosity  I  inclose  a  few  more  scales  of  gold;  I 
doubt  if  they  will  keep  but  I  will  try  anyhow.  Should 
they  be  lost,  it  would  not  matter  much;  and  should  you 
receive  them,  I  know  that  they  will  give  you  pleasure. 
So  let  us  try  it.  I  have,  however,  selected  the  largest 
scales  I  had.  The  gold  here  is  generally  finer  than  the 
samples  I  send. 

And  now  farewell;  a  thousand  ''herzliche  Gruesse"  to 
all  my  beloved  ones! 

With  love  as  ever,  your 

F. 


224  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Long  Bar,  Yuba  Eiver,  CaL, 

(Begun)  Sept.  1st,  1852. 
Though  I  only  the  other  day  mailed  my  letter  No.  16, 
I  shall  now  begin  to  make  good  my  promise  to  give  you 
a  detailed  account  of  events;  and  since  my  letter  written 
on  Nelson  Creek,  of  which  I  made  mention  in  my  last,  has 
become  almost  illegible  by  wear  and  tear,  I  will  begin 
this  letter  by  first  copying  the  former. 

On  Nelson  Creek  Near  Hopkinsville, 

In  the  beginning  of  July,  1852. 

And  so  I  am  here  at  last,  far  up  in  the  Sierra  Nevada, 
on  the  line  of  the  eternal  snow. 

When  I  wrote  my  last  letter  at  Long  Bar  I  not  only 
scarcely  knew  this  place  by  name,  but  I  certainly  never 
thought  of  passing  the  summer  up  here  in  the  wilderness. 
But  that  is  the  way  here  in  California,  no  one  can  predict 
at  any  given  time  either  where  he  will  be  or  what  will  be- 
come of  him,  say,  within  the  next  eight  days.  In  my  last 
letter  I  told  you  how  few  preparations  it  requires  here  for 
any  kind  of  a  trip,  and  how  little  time  it  takes  a  man  to 
make  up  his  mind  about  it,  and  to  start  on  it;  that  is  ex- 
actly how  it  came  about  with  me. 

On  Wednesday,  June  2d,  at  about  3  o'clock  in  the  aft- 
ernoon, as  I  was  at  work,  Charles  Kamke  came  to  me  and 
asked  me  if  I  would  go  with  him  to  Nelson  Cl*eek ;  a  Ger- 
man from  there  had  come  to  Long  Bar  to  hire  some  men, 
and  that  we  might  find  him  on  the  next  day  in  the  fore- 
noon at  the  "Wisconsin  Llouse,"  about  ten  miles  from 
Long  Bar,  and  there  make  our  arrangements  with  him. 
You  will  see  that  I  did  not  have  much  time  to  make  up 
my  mind;  I  went  to  my  tent,  packed  up  my  bundle  and 
put  rifle  and  revolver  in  order;  then  I  brought  my  rocker 
and  other  tools  from  the  bar  and  placed  them  where  they 
would  be  safe  during  my  absence;  and  on  the  following 
morning  I  was  ready  to  start  on  a  trip  of  about  150  miles. 

On  Thursday,  June  3d,  at  sunrise  I  ate  my  last  pancake 
at  Long  Bar,  and  then  turned  my  back  on  the  place, 
where  I  had  made  my  debut  as  a  miner,  accompanied  by 


IX  THE  TUNING  DISTRICT  225 

tliroe  other  Germans,  who  also  wanted  to  go  up  into  the 
mountains,  and  by  some  friends  who  wished  to  accom- 
pany us  to  the  ' '  Wisconsin  House ' '  to  see  us  off.  We  all 
carried  rather  heavy  loads.  Each  one  had  about  thirty 
pounds  in  his  pack  besides  two  or  three  blankets,  i^ick, 
shovel,  gun,  pistol  and  hatchet.  The  morning  was  de- 
lightful; birds  sang  merrily  in  the  old  oak  trees,  the  air 
was  cool  and  balmy;  we  were  all  in  good  humor  and  jjood 
spirits,  and  so  as  we  stepped  forth  on  our  way  over  the 
green  velvety  turf,  all  of  our  worldly  goods  on  our  backs 
or  in  our  pockets,  we  did  not  deem  the  loads  we  carried 
to  be  too  heavy,  and  many  a  merry  sailor  Song  awoke  the 
echoes  among  the  green  sunclad  hills. 

As  we  did  not  hurry  over  much,  it  was  about  9  o  'clock 
when  we  reached  the  edge  of  the  prairie,  along  which 
our  road  now  led  us  and  at  11  o'clock  we  came  to  the 
''Wisconsin  House,"  our  place  of  rendezvous.  We  threw 
our  bundles  down  in  the  shade  of  an  old  oak  tree,  and, 
stretching  ourselves  at  full  length  on  the  grass,  we 
awaited  the  arrival  of  our  man  from  Marysville.  From 
our  resting  place  we  had  a  good  view  of  the  prairie  as  it 
stretched  before  us,  unbounded,  cheerless,  bare  of  bush 
and  tree,  covered  only  with  short,  coarse  grass.  For 
miles  the  eye  could  follow  the  serpentine  course  of  the 
wagon  road,  running  like  a  fine  red  thread  over  the 
plain.  From  a  cloudless  sky  the  sun  poured  down 
its  fierv^  heat,  and  over  the  prairie  the  air  quivered 
as  it  does  over  a  raging  fire.  Away  from  the  road 
no  sign  of  life;  on  the  road  itself,  however,  it  was 
difi'erent.  Trains  of  pack-mules  would  pass  us  everv^  now 
and  then,  led  by  ^Unuleros"  (mule  drivers)  in  gay  old 
Spanish  costumes,  their  dark,  sunburnt  faces  shaded  by 
broad  brimmed  felt  hats,  the  long  rifle  in  front  on  the 
saddle,  and  knife  and  pistol  in  their  belt.  Tliey  reminded 
me  of  Italian  bandits  as  they  galloped  past  us  on  their 
small,  half-tamed  horses,  now  in  front  and  now  behind  the 
long  line  of  heavily  burdened  mules;  now  keeping  them 
back  and  now  urging  them  on  by  the  use  of  their  lassoes, 
their  most  dangerous  weapon,  which  even,^  one  of  them 

15 


226  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

carries  on  the  pommel  of  his  saddle.  They  are  a  wild, 
dangerous  set,  these  'Unuleros."  Mostly  Mexicans,  they 
have  very  little  love  for  the  foreign  inti'uder  in— what 
they  still  consider— their  own  countrj^;  and  when  a  man 
is  alone  on  the  road,  he  does  well  to  keep  out  of  their  way 
— for  they  are  exceedingly  handy  with  their  long  knives, 
and  a  murder  will  not  weigh  heavily  on  their  consciences. 

More  peaceful  were  the  so-called  teamsters  to  look  at, 
mostly  Americans  or  Germans,  who  passed  us  with  their 
wagons,  each  drawn  by  six  or  eight  oxen.  Urging  on 
their  slow,  powerful  animals  with  an  incessant  "hi-ho- 
ah,"  and  with  their  enormous  20  feet  long  leather  whips, 
which  to  swing  requires  strength  and  dexterity,  they  all 
had  a  "good  morning"  or  some  other  kind  word  for  us 
as  they  passed  by. 

"Gentlemen,"  too,  passed  us,  mounted  on  fine  horses 
or  mules.  They  were  merchants  or  their  clerks,  going 
perhaps  to  the  nearest  postoffice  or  visiting  the  mines  on 
business.  Some  abominable  tourists  we  saw,  too;  these 
fellows  go  about  the  country  and  stare  at  the  mines  and 
miners  as  they  would  at  wild  beasts  in  a  menagerie. 

The  most  pleasant  to  encounter,  often  without  any 
arms  whatever  and  their  bundles  reduced  to  a  minimum, 
were  traveling  miners  like  ourselves,  who  either  were 
going  up  to  the  mountains  full  of  hope  or  returning  from 
them.  Thep  stopped  with  us,  chatted  for  a  few  minutes 
and  then  went  on  again  wishing  us  "good  luck." 

Such  was  the  procession  that  passed  us  as  we  lay  that 
day  at  noontime  in  the  cooling  shade  of  that  old  oak- 
tree,  smoking  old  black  clay  pipes,  and  chatting  with  our 
friends  from  Long  Bar,  who  had  come  to  see  us  off. 

At  last  at  2  o'clock  Kothrock,  our  man  from  Nelson 
Creek,  arrived  with  his  team  drawn  by  eight  powerful 
oxen.  We  presented  ourselves  and  were  accepted  at  once, 
with  the  understanding  that  our  wages  should  be  the 
same  as  those  paid  by  others  on  Nelson  Creek  at  the 
time  of  our  arrival  there.  After  we  had  sealed  the  con- 
tract by  a  drink  at  the  "Wisconsin  House,"  we  loaded 
our  baggage  on  the  wagon  with  the  exception  of  our 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  227 

arms,  and  then  our  little  company  started  on  its  march. 
We  were:  Rothrock,  the  teamster;  Fritz  Giinther,  his 
brother-in-law,  both  German- Americans,  and  lately  from 
Jefferson  City;  Charles  Kamke  from  Dantzig;  August 
Braun  from  Memel;  a  young  man  named  Reinhard,  and 
Fritz  Schmetzer,  whom  Rothrock  had  brought  from 
Marysville,  and  myself. 

As  I  mentioned  before,  the  "Wisconsin  House"  is  at 
the  edge  of  the  Sacramento  valley,  about  14  miles  North- 
east from  Marysville,  about  midway  between  the  Yuba 
and  the  Feather  rivers.  Tlie  countrj^  which  we  crossed 
on  that  hot  afternoon  of  our  first  traveling  day,  offered  a 
perfect  parallel  to  the  lovely  landscape  around  Long  Bar, 
which  I  have  tried  to  describe  in  my  former  letter. 
Among  the  softly  undulating  hills  lay  the  valleys  with 
their  carpet  of  flowers  and  their  old  oak  trees,  and  here 
and  there  a  cozy  farm  house.  Of  these  we  encountered 
six  or  seven  during  that  afternoon.  Situated  as  they  are 
on  the  only  road  that  runs  at  present  between  the  Yuba 
and  the  Feather  rivers  to  the  Sierra  Nevada,  they  are 
kept  as  inns,  and  the  board  we  get  there  is  good.  Espe^ 
cially  one  of  these  houses  pleased  me  very  much — the 
''Galena  House"— as  well  on  account  of  its  picturesque 
situation  as  of  the  toute  ensemhle,  the  owner  a  German- 
American— having  built  it  in  the  style  of  a  Swiss  cot- 
tage, probably  as  a  compliment  to  his  young  wife,  a  na-- 
tive  of  Switzerland. 

Wlien  you  travel  with  an  ox  team,  you  do  not  get  over 
the  ground  as  fast  as  you  would  on  the  wings  of  Pega- 
sus. Sauntering  slowly  along  we  took  a  good  view  of 
all  we  encountered  on  the  road— teams,  horsemen  and 
mule  trains,  who  from  afar  announced  themselves 
through  the  bells  of  their  leaders;  but  what  pleased  us 
most  were  the  constantly  changing,  charming  landscapes, 
which  the  now  setting  sun  covered  with  a  purple  tint. 
It  was  after  sundown  when  we  came  to  a  halt  on  a  mea- 
dow in  a  valley  near  the  "Tennessee  House,"  about  20 
miles  from  the  "Wisconsin."  On  the  bank  of  a  small 
laughing  stream,  under  an  oak  tree  heavy  with  age,  on 


2S8         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

a  spot  covered  with  tlie  softest  and  greenest  grass,  we 
kindled  a  blazing  fire,  and  soon  had  a  large  coffee  pot 
humming.  Two  frying  pans  were  at  once  set  agoing,  and 
so,  while  the  bells  of  the  cattle  furnished  the  music,  we 
disposed  of  our  plain  miners'  supper  in  even  less  time 
than  it  had  taken  to  prepare  it.  Then  every  one  of  us 
pulled  out  his  short  clay  pipe,  and  yams  were  in  order 
until  the  fire  getting  smaller  and  feebler,  finally  sank 
down  in  embers  and  ashes.  One  after  another  we  spread 
our  blankets  on  the  ground;  each  one  placed  his  arms 
alongside,  and  shoved  a  rock,  a  piece  of  wood  or  some 
such  thing  under  his  head,  so  as  to  rest  more  comfort- 
ably; the  conversation  at  first  lively,  became  by  degi'ees 
more  and  more  dull,  and  the  answers  came  faint  and  in 
monosyllables,  until  at  last  the  eyelids  dropped  and  we 
became  silent. 

On  the  following  morning  when  the  first  rays  of  the 
rising  sun  lighted  the  tops  of  the  trees  in  our  valley  our 
breakfast  was  already  disposed  of,  our  oxen  were  yoked 
up,  and  we  started  again  upon  our  journey.  The  coun- 
try through  which  we  now  passed  had  the  same  char- 
acter as  on  the  day  before,  only  it  showed  less  cultiva- 
tion; the  hills  became  steeper  and  steeper,  so  steep  in 
fact  that  our  oxen  often  had  hard  work  to  pull  the  wagon 
with  its  heavy  load  up  to  the  summit,  and  in  going  down 
again,  we  had  to  put  the  drag  chain  on  both  hind  wheels. 
Among  the  oaks  we  noticed  more  and  more  firs  and  pines, 
and  the  foliage  became  at  last  so  dense  that  only  at  rare 
intervals  could  wo  get  a  good  view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  Towards  noon  we  reached  a  beautiful  large 
valley,  entirely  open,  with  a  Mexican  ranch  on  it,  the 
''Indiana  Kanch,"  which,  however,  had  not  a  very  good 
reputation.  Here  we  rested  ourselves  for  about  an  hour, 
and  then  continued  our  journey.  Just  behind  the  '^In- 
diana lianch"  we  passed  a  pleasant  little  mining  camp, 
Toll's  New  Diggings,  and  then  began  the  ascent.  That 
was  a  pretty  tough  piece  of  work!  From  here  the  road 
leads  upward  continuously  and  is  very  steep  for  about  'A 
miles;  but  not  only  that,  the  road  is  here  also  much  less 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  '  229 

traveled  than  below  and  is  not  covered  vrith  rocks,  but 
with  veritable  boulders  in  such  a.  way  that  in  places  a 
pedestrian  has  trouble  to  get  over  them.  Here  it  was 
where  I  got  my  first  idea  of  a  California  mountain  road. 
About  a  mile  beyond  Toll 's  Diggings  we  became  satisfied 
that  neither  the  oxen  would  be  able  to  draw  the  load  any 
further,  nor  that  the  wheels  would  stand  any  longer  the 
terrible  jolting  they  constantly  received  by  slipping  off 
the  rocks  into  holes  2  and  2^/2  feet  deep.  So  there  was  no 
help  for  it — we  had  to  take  half  the  load  off  the  wagon, 
pile  the  things  up  on  the  side  of  the  road,  and  leaving 
myself  and  Eeinhard  in  charge,  the  others  continued  on 
their  way.  Towards  sundown  our  teamster  retuiTied  for 
the  rest  of  the  load;  but  our  oxen  came  near  giving  out, 
consequently  we  did  not  reach  camp  until  long  after  sun- 
down. I  was  very  glad  that  our  friends  had  supper  ready 
for  us.  Our  camping  place  was  on  top  of  a  big  hill, 
densely  covered  with  firs  and  pines— oaks  not  appearing 
any  more  here— and  about  a  hundred  yards  away  from 
a.  deserted  Indian  village  whose  half-round  mud  huts,  or 
the  so-called  ^'wigwams,"  were  yet  in  a  fair  condition. 
On  account  of  the  many  poisonous  snakes  whicli  infest 
just  such  places  as  deserted  huts  or  hollow  trees,  we  pre- 
ferred to  spread  our  blankets  under  the  blue  canopy  of 
heaven,  though  the  air  was  rather  chilly,  and  the  huts 
would  have  offered  us  good  protection  against  the  cold— 
I  must  say  the  snakes  here  are  not  to  be  trifled  with.  I 
alone  killed  no  less  than  five  of  them  on  that  afternoon, 
two  of  them  being  rattlesnakes — one  about  five  feet  long; 
and  one  a  whipsnake,  a  snake  about  as  thick  as  a  finger, 
of  brilliant  colors,  whose  bite  is  said  to  be  absolutely  fatal. 
The  smaller  one  of  the  two  rattlesnakes  I  clubbed  with 
the  butt  of  my  pistol  not  five  yards  away  from  the  place 
where  I  afterwards  spread  my  blankets  for  the  night.  I 
must  confess  that  I  felt  a  little  uncomfortable  on  retiring 
on  that  evening,  and  I  felt  nei'vous  whenever  I  heard  a 
ground  squiiTel  or  anything  else  move.  At  last  fatigue 
got  the  better  of  me,  and  I  slept  soundly  till  morning, 
dreaming  that  a  large  rattlesnake  had  the  pious  intention 
of  devouring  me,  skin  and  liair— and  then  I  awoke. 


230  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

On  Saturday,  June  5th,  our  progress  began  to  be  diffi- 
cult. Constantly  up  and  down  steep  mountains,  through 
a  dense  gloomy  forest  of  firs  and  pines,  showing  but  sel- 
dom an  open  space,  the  road  was  a  genuine  mountain 
trail,  rocky  and  narrow.  It  led  along  the  edges  of  fright- 
ful i^recipices,  and  at  times  in  going  down  the  ravines  it 
was  SO'  steep  that  not  only  did  we  have  to  clog  three  of 
the  wheels,  but  we  had  to  cut  down  some  of  the  small  fir 
trees  and  fasten  them  to  the  wagon,  so  as  to  help  in  hold- 
ing it  back.  In  spite  of  all  these  precautions  it  would 
at  times  shoot  forward  with  such  a  velocity  that  for  a  mo- 
ment I  gave  up  all  hope  of  ever  seeing  it  or  the  two  old 
oxen,  the  leaders,  again,  who  alone  were  left  in  the  yoke 
at  places  like  these.  By  hard  work  we  managed  to  reach 
*' Frenchman 's  Ranch,"  a  cluster  of  five  or  six  houses  on 
the  South  Fork  of  the  Feather  River,  at  high  noon,  and 
here  we  took  a  short  rest. 

After  starting  again  I  remained  yet  for  a  short  time 
with  the  team;  but,  getting  disgusted  with  the  continual 
yelling  and  the  whipping  of  the  poor  animals,  I  stole  off, 
i.  e.,  I  walked  ahead,  at  first  slowly  and  then  faster.  I 
soon  found  myself  alone  on  the  road  which  I  followed  now 
more  leisurely— my  rifle  on  my  shoulder.  Silence  like 
that  of  a  sepulcher  lay  over  the  primeval  forest  around 
me,  and  the  sighing  of  the  trees  rather  increased  than 
disturbed  it. 

This  was  a  virgin  forest!  Dense  brushwood  covered 
the  ground  between  these  giants  wliicli  had  witnessed  the 
change  of  winter  and  summer  for  centuries.  There  they 
stood;  the  mighty  yellow  pine,  the  sombre  black  fir,  and 
the  slender,  magnificeut  cedar,  "the  gazelle  among 
trees,"  running  up  straight  as  an  arrow,  often  two  hun- 
dred feet  high,  into  the  clear,  blue  atmosphere.  Many 
of  them  had  fulfilled  their  destiny  and  paid  the  debt  of 
nature.  Phantom-like  stood  the  immense  trunks,  often 
eight  feet  in  diameter,  and  a  hundred  feet  high,  devoid 
of  bark  and  branches,  and  bleached  by  storms  of  count- 
less years  as  they  looked  down  on  the  wanderer,  or  show- 
ing by  their  charred  or  blackened  stems  that  they  had 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  331 

been  blasted  by  a  scorching  fire.  Many  lay  almost  buried 
under  the  coppice,  covered  with  moss  and  vines,  and — 
according  to  the  eternal  law  of  nature— returning  to 
earth. 

The  grandeur  of  the  scenery,  the  solemn  unbroken  still- 
ness invited  graver  thoughts,  and  so  I  fell  involuntarily 
into  one  of  those  reveries,  to  give  way  to  which  has  ever 
been  an  inveterate  tendency  with  me  from  early  youth. 
With  my  eyes  on  the  ground  before  me  I  sauntered  along, 
faster  or  slower,  nolens  volens,  keeping  time  with  the 
train  of  thoughts  as  they  were  influenced  by  heart  or 
head.  I  did  not  notice  that  the  shadows  of  the  old  trees 
grew  longer  and  longer  as  they  fell  on  the  intricate  maze 
of  undergrowth,  when  a  sudden  turn  of  the  road  brought 
me  to  a  clearing,  and  I  beheld  as  lovely  a  landscape  as 
the  pen  of  a  Lessing  or  the  brush  of  a  Behrendsen  can 
produce— the  most  gentle  idyll  which  the  pure  fancy  of  a 
Voss  can  conceive  or  describe  in  poetr}\  In  the  middle 
of  a  small  narrow  valley  or  rather  meadow,  watered  by 
a  beautiful  rivulet,  stood  a  log  house,  which,  however, 
did  not  look  as  if  the  ax  of  a  back  woodsman  had  had 
much  to  do  with  its  construction ;  or  as  if  it  had  been  put 
up  only  for  the  puiiiose  of  affording  shelter.  It  looked 
rather  as  if  it  had  been  built  by  a  skilful  carpenter  for 
the  park  of  some  wealthy  artist.  Tlie  ground  around  the 
house  was  neatly  fenced  in  with  pickets,  and  well  stocked 
with  poultry  and  pigs,  while  near  by  in  the  meadow — 
also  surrounded  by  a  good  fence— were  half  a  dozen  cows, 
whose  bells  were  tinkling  at  every  motion.  The  shades  of 
evening  had  settled  over  the  larger  part  of  the  little  val- 
ley, including  the  spot  where  I  stood  as  if  spellbound  on 
beholding  the  beautiful  view  before  me,  but  the  house 
itself  and  the  small  open  space  in  front  of  it  lay  yet  in 
the  light  of  the  setting  sun,  whose  last  rays  were  breaking 
through  the  tops  of  the  firs  and  cedars  which  covered 
the  surrounding  hills.  A  cedar  log,  roughly  trimmed  by 
an  ax,  lay  in  front  of  the  house,  and  was  at  this  moment 
the  center  of  one  of  the  most  picturesque  groups  I  ever 
beheld. 


232  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

On  the  log  sat  an  old  man,  dressed  in  a  suit  of  coarse 
gray  cloth,  a  brown  felt  hat  covering  his  white  hair.  On 
his  knees  he  held  several  open  letters,  one  of  which  he 
seemed  to  be  reading  aloud  to  the  persons  suiTOunding 
him.  These  were  a  young  woman,  of  twenty  years  or 
more,  dressed  as  the  wives  of  xVmerican  farmers  are 
usually  dressed;  she  had  dropped  her  needlew^ork  in  her 
lap,  leaning  forward  with  her  intelligent,  sunburnt  face 
tunaed  fully  towards  the  old  man,  the  better  to  listen  to 
his  words.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  patriarch— on 
the  ground— sat  a  boy  about  1-1  or  15  years  of  age,  his 
knees  drawn  up  to  his  chin,  and  his  hands  folded  in  front, 
so  as  not  to  lose  his  balance.  Behind  the  boy  stood  a  man 
leaning  on  a  long  rifle,  with  Avhicli  he  had  probably  at 
that  moment  returned  from  a  hunt,  dressed  like  a  farmer, 
the  broad-brimmed  hat  shading  a  handsome,  manly  face 
—and  also  listening  attentively  to  the  reading  of  the  let- 
ters. A  few^  yards  away  two  children— a  boy  about  six 
and  a  little  girl  about  four  years  old— were  playing  near 
a  draw  well,  constructed  just  as  we  have  them  in  the 
country  at  home,  and  this  gave  to  the  whole  scene  some- 
thing very  pleasant  and  homelike.  The  last  figure  of  the 
group,  a  young  man  about  20  years  old,  stood  near  the 
road  unhaiTiessing  a  pair  of  mules. 

For  a  short  time  I  forgot  everything  in  looking  at  the 
lovely  idyll,  and  it  was  only  when  the  old  man  folded  up 
his  letters  and  turned  around  that  I  awoke  from  my  rev- 
erie, and  following  a  natural  impulse  I  approached  them. 
My  first  expedient  was  to  ask  for  some  water,  and  much 
quicker  than  I  could  have  hoped,  I  found  myself  engaged 
in  a  conversation  with  the  old  man  and  his  daughter,  the 
wife  of  the  farmer.  The  latter  was  very  communicative, 
c-mi  still  excited  by  the  good  news  received,  and  appar- 
ently forgetting  that  I  was  a  stranger,  she  let  me  into 
some  of  the  family  affairs  by  telling  me  how  the  letters 
said  that  her  sister  Lucy  had  married  a  rich  farmer  in 
Missouri,  and  the  other  sister  Clara  was  engaged  to  a 
young  German  locksmith  at  such  a  place,  and  that  her 
brother  Charles  would  probably  be  soon  out  here  on  a 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  233 

visit;  aud  so  slie  freely  went  on  recounting  many  other 
family  matters. 

An  hour  had  passed  by  in  pleasant  conversation  with- 
out our  being  aware  of  it,  when  I  saw  our  team  approach 
and  I  had  to  bid  ' '  good-bye ' '  to  my  newly  made  friends. 
Our  parting  was  cordial,  considering  our  short  acquaint- 
ance. Evening  had  set  in,  and  while  I  was  walking  along- 
side our  team  through  the  dark  forest,  I  could  not  but 
constantly  think  about  the  "Pine  Grove  House"  and  its 
inhabitants.  My  companions,  noticing  this,  kept  banter- 
ing me  about  my  having  fallen  in  love  with  the  handsome 
young  wife.  In  reality  it  was  not  that  at  all,  but  I  did 
think  how  happy  the  man  must  be  vTio  can  live  thus 
secluded  from  the  world  alone  with  his  wife  and  family, 
loving  and  beloved. 

It  was  late  when  we  reached  our  third  camping  ground, 
distant  from  ''Pine  Grove"  about  3  or  4  miles — and  it 
was  not  a  "Night  in  Granada,"  but  a  night  in  "Straw- 
berry Valley"— a  small  town  of  5  or .6  houses,  where  we 
pitched  our  camp.  Out  of  consideration  for  our  purses 
we  slept  again  in  the  open,  hard  by  the  public  road,  our 
blankets  for  a  cover  under  a  dark  blue,  starry  sky.  The 
cold  air  reminded  us  that  we  had  now  attained  a  high 
altitude,  and  during  the  night  every  now  and  then  we 
were  compelled  to  draw  the  blankets  closer  around  us 
after  the  fire,  which  we  had  started  in  the  evening,  had 
fallen  into  embers,  and  as  the  raw  morning  air  began  to 
rustle  through  the  pines. 

During  the  forenoon  of  the  6th  we  did  not  encounter  as 
many  obstacles  as  on  the  day  previous.  Our  road  led  us 
over  a  sort  of  plateau ;  and  even  if  we  had  to  cross  a  val- 
ley or  a  ravine  occasionally,  they  were  few  and  far  be- 
tween, and  the  banks  were  not  steep.  We  had  passed  the 
region  of  the  cedars,  and  where  we  rested  at  noon,  we 
found  the  pines  quite  numerous  among  the  firs.  This  was 
near  the  "Missouri  House,"  which  we  reached  at  about 
11  o'clock.  Here  a  steep  mountain  rose  up  before  us,  and 
we  had  to  climb  steadily  upward  for  about  three  hours. 
After  reaching  the  summit,  our  road— now  only  a  trail— 


234  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

led  us  along  the  edge  of  a  precipice  several  hundred  feet 
deep,  and  I  may  say  that  from  here— though  we  were  high 
up  in  the  mountains— we  for  the  first  time  gazed  upon  the 
grand,  gloomy  giants  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  and  her  aerial 
glaciers.  There  was  not  one  among  us  but  stood  for  the 
moment  awed,  on  beholding  the  picture  thus  suddenly  un- 
folded before  our  eyes.  Standing  as  we  did  on  the  top 
of  an  almost  bald  mountain,  we  could  with  one  glance 
take  in  the  whole  panorama ;  the  deep  valleys  in  the  fore- 
ground, densely  wooded  with  dark  firs,  whose  tops  were 
many  hundred  feet  below  us;  the  tangle  of  chasm  and 
precipices  beyond— some  of  the  latter  nearh^  bare,  others 
covered  with  a  growth  of  brushwood  and  stunted  firs; 
the  sides  of  the  mountains  fun*owed  by  numberless  ra- 
vines and  gulches,  and  beyond  this  and  towering  high 
above  it  all,  the  mighty  giants  themselves,  rising  high 
above  the  line  of  vegetation,  their  sharp  peaks  glittering 
with  eternal  snow  and  ice— standing  out  frozen  and  clear 
through  the  blue  atmosphere.  A  cold  breeze  came  as  if 
in  waves  from  the  other  side  of  the  valley.  We  had 
reached  the  margin  of  the  snow  line. 

I  have  not  attempted  to  give  you  anything  like  an  ade- 
quate description  in  detail  of  the  panorama  before  me, 
nor  to  tell  you  what  I  felt  in  looking  at  it.  I  could  not 
do  either;  not  the  first,  because  I  could  not  grasp  any 
single  feature  myself;  I  had  eyes  for  the  whole  only;  I 
saw  only  the  clefts,  the  mighty  mountains,  the  snow— 
and  I  could  not  do  the  second,  because— smile  at  me  if 
you  will— I  cannot  find  words  to  do  so. 

From  here  we  began  to  descend  again,  and  soon  the 
dense,  dark  forest  prevented  a  look  in  the  distance.  It 
was  more  a  tumbling  down  than  an  orderly  descent,  and 
at  times  I  really  thought  that  our  wagon  would  get  to 
the  bottom  ahead  of  the  oxen.  At  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain—at tlie  "Lexington  House"- we  were  told  that  ow- 
ing to  the  bad  condition  of  the  road,  we  would  barely  be 
able  to  reach  the  next  loghouse— the  "Deadwood  House" 
—  3  miles  distant— a  great  disappointment  to  us,  as  we 
had  been  in  hopes  of  reaching  Grass  Valley,  distant  about 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  335 

six  miles,  before  darkness  set  in.  Without  delay  we  took 
again  to  the  road,  going  as  fast  as  our  tired  animals  could 
travel  over  mountains  and  along  precipices  that  made 
one  dizzy. 

Our  road— or  to  be  more  correct  the  ground— because 
one  cannot  speak  of  a  road  where  there  appears  only  here 
and  there  the  faint  track  of  a  single  wagon— the  ground 
was  so  thoroughly  drenched  by  melted  snow  that  every 
now  and  then  the  wheels  would  sink  down  to  the  hubs, 
and  the  oxen  to  above  their  knees.  We  all  had  a  hard 
time  of  it;  the  constant  unloading  and  reloading,  the  lift- 
ing, pulling,  pushing,  tripping  and  stopping  of  the 
wagon,  would  have  kept  busy  a  crew  as  large  again  as 
we  were.  Later  than  we  expected,  but  yet  an  hour  before 
sundown,  and  without  any  damage  to  our  team,  we 
reached  "Deadwood  House."  Here  we  were  told  that 
thus  far  in  this  year  no  team  had  attempted  to  go  to 
Grass  Valley,  and  that  we  certainly  would  not  be  able  to 
get  there  this  evening,  if  at  all.  Eothrock's  motto,  how- 
ever, in  true  California  style  was  ''up  and  doing;"  he 
insisted  upon  going  on,  and  so,  after  we  had  taken  a  stiff 
drink  of  whiskey  and  lighted  our  pipes  anew,  on  we  went 
ahead. 

Grass  Valley,  the  town  of  that  name,  is  distant  from 
Deadwood  about  three  miles,  as  I  said  before,  while  the 
valley  itself  begins  just  one  mile  beyond  Deadwood. 
As  we  had  been  told  here,  we  lost  immediately  after 
starting  even  the  slightest  trace  of  the  road;  and  nobody 
has  an  idea  what  it  means  to  travel  with  an  ox  team 
where  there  is  no  road,  not  even  a  trail,  unless  he  has 
tried  it.  We  had  our  hands  full,  now  cutting  through 
snowdrifts  5  or  6  feet  high,  then  rolling  large  boulders 
out  of  the  way;  here  we  get  mired  down  and  we  have  to 
unload;  the  oxen  strain  ever^'-  muscle  and  we  lift  and 
push  to  get  the  empty  wagon  again  on  solid  ground; 
then  we  load  up  again  and  immediately  afterwards  we 
run  into  another  snowdrift,  where  the  wagon  goes  down 
again  to  the  hubs;  the  snow  is  piled  up  before  the  dash- 
board, like  the  water  before  a  swift  sailing  ship ;  but  our 


236  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEX  GATE 

oxen  pull  hard,  and  only  about  ten  steps  more  would  have 
brought  us  out  of  the  snowdrift,  when  there  came  a  sud- 
den jerk.  Stop!  On  shoveling  the  snow  aside  we  found 
that  the  fore  wheels  had  struck  the  trunk  of  a  fallen  tree, 
about  2  feet  In  diameter,  which  had  been  completely  hid- 
den by  the  snow.  Immediately  two  men,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  wagon,  begin  to  cut  through,  and  others  are 
ready  to  relieve  them  when  tired,  it  does  not  take  long 
to  open  a  passage.  AVe  start  again.  The  snow  begins  to 
get  solid  enough  for  the  team  to  pass  over  it,  frozen  solid, 
yes,  it  is!  For  the  next  hundred  yards  we  are  all  right, 
when  all  of  a  sudden  the  treacherous  snow  field  gives 
way,  and  oxen  and  wagon  disappear  together  in  a  hole  5 
feet  deep.  AVe  unload,  dig  wagon  and  oxen  out  and  load 
up  again. 

Thus  it  went  on  constantly,  and,  of  course,  we  made  lit- 
tle progress.  The  sun  had  gone  down  and  it  became  dark, 
and  we  had  not  made  a  mile  yet.  Here  we  came  to  a 
jjlace  where  standing  up  to  our  knees  in  mud  and  snow 
we  had  to  cut  our  way  with  axes  through  brushwood 
covered  with  snow.  The  small  branches  would  fly  back 
at  every  stroke  like  steel  springs,  covering  us  all  over 
with  mud  and  snow.  Immediately  beyond  this  place  we 
stood  before  an  exceedingly  steep  grade,  almost  a  prec- 
ipice; how  steep  we  could  not  tell  in  the  darkness;  but 
down  there  we  had  to  go  to  reach  Grass  Valley,  and  down 
we  went  like  an  avalanche,  though  we  had  three  wheels  ^ 
locked  and  two  young  pine  trees  fastened  on  behind.  In 
spite  of  the  darkness  and  our  rapid  descent,  we  reached 
the  bottom  without  accident  and  stood  now  before  a  nar- 
row but  rather  deep  creek.  It  was  too  dark  to  look  for  a 
crossing,  and  so  we  waded  straight  into  it  and  right  up 
to  the  hips— the  water  being  cold  as  ice.  Just  think  how 
pleasant!  the  upper  part  of  the  body  dripping  with  per- 
spiration and  pantaloons  and  boots  full  of  ice  water!  We 
took  just  enough  tune  to  wring  out  our  nether  garments; 
took  off  our  boots  and  poured  out  the  water;  into  them 
with  bare  feet— and  off  we  started  again. 

The  ground  here  was  still  boggy,  but  covered  with 


IN  THE  i^JINIXG  DISTRICT  337 

grass,  free  from  snow  and  level,  so  that  we  began  to  hope 
that  we  might  yet  reach  some  human  habitation;  but  we 
had  hardly  gone  a  half  a  mile  over  the  bottom,  when  the 
wagon  sank  again  to  above  the  hubs  into  a  quagmire;  the 
now  totally  exhausted  animals  gave  out,  and  there  was 
no  alternative;  we  had  to  wait  here  for  daylight.  Hav- 
ing unyoked  the  oxen  and  fed  them  some  hay,  we  started 
out  in  search  of  a  camping  place  and  firewood,  but  all 
we  found  was  mud,  knee  deep  everywhere,  and  a  little 
half  rotten  wood,  which  we  had  to  fish  out  of  some  pud- 
dles. For  full}'  half  an  hour  we  tried  to  kindle  a  fire, 
but  it  was  all  in  vain— we  had  to  give  it  up,  and  with 
empty  stomachs  and  wet  and  chilled  through  and  through 
we  had  to  seek  rest  as  best  we  could.  Yea,  rest!  The 
moment  one  of  us  would  lie  down,  the  mud  and  water 
would  splash  up  to  the  right  and  left  of  him.  But  it  was 
of  no  use  to  grumble  (as  it  is  nowhere  in  California  for 
that  matter).  T  was  as  ''tired  as  a  dog"  and  so  I  re- 
signed myself  to  fate,  wrapped  my  blankets  around  me 
and  laid  myself  down.  I  had  given  up  all  hope  of  going 
to  sleep,  but  fatigue  at  last  got  the  better  of  me,  and  I 
fell  into  a  sort  of  slumber,  which,  however,  was  anything 
but  refreshing.  Yv^et,  cold  and  hungry  as  I  was,  it  was 
impossible  to  sleep  soundly,  and  I  laid  awake  for  hours. 
It  seemed  as  if  that  night  would  never  come  to  an  end! 
With  the  coming  of  daylight,  however,  w©  were  all  on  our 
feet,  for  none  of  us  had  had  any  sleep  to  speak  of.  I  felt 
so  stiff  and  chilled  that  I  could  hardly  move  my  limbs; 
a  heavy  fog— dense  and  cold— lay  on  the  marshy  bottom 
of  the  valley.  AVhat  would  I  have  given  for  a  glass  of 
brandy  or  a  cup  of  coffee!  but  neither  was  to  be  had.  Our 
whiskers  were  white  with  frost ;  our  wet  pantaloons  were 
frozen  stiff  and  hard  like  buckskin.  After  considerable 
yawning  and  stretching  we  went  to  work  to  get  our 
wagon  out  of  the  quagmire.  It  took  us  two  hours  to  do 
this,  and  then  we  started  again  slowly  on  our  way,  the 
mud  being  up  to  our  knees.  After  crossing  and  recross- 
ing  the  creek  about  half  a  dozen  times  we  at  last  reached 
Grass  Valley  at  about  10  o'clock  in  the  morning.     You 


238  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

may  imagine  that  it  did  not  take  us  long  to  get  the  much 
needed  food  and  nerve  tonics;  that  reinvigorated 
us,  and  after  half  an  hour  rest  we  started  again  in  better 
spirits.  Two  or  three  times  more  we  mired  down,  but 
finally  we  reached  a  deserted  and  half-iTiined  loghouse, 
about  two  miles  beyond  Grass  Valley.  It  was  on  drj^ 
ground,  half  hidden  under  trees  and  bushes  on  the  bank 
of  a  creek  of  clear,  cold  water;  and  there  being  good  pas- 
ture for  our  cattle,  we  pitched  our  camp. 

Eothrock,  after  a  consultation  with  us,  concluded  to 
walk  across  the  mountains  to  "Onion  Valley,"  distant 
about  twelve  miles,  and  from  there  to  send  mules  for  half 
of  our  load;  we— after  the  oxen  were  rested— to  push  on 
with  the  other  half  in  the  same  direction. 

The  first  thing  for  us  to  do  was— as  you  may  imagine — 
to  kindle  an  immense  fire,  to  divest  ourselves  of  our  cloth- 
ing (except  our  flannel  shirts)— in  other  words,  to  take 
otf  our  boots  and  trousers  and  to  dry  them.  At  the  same 
time  we  provided  for  our  dinner,  putting  on  a  large  ket- 
tle with  meat  and  another  with  potatoes,  and  while  these 
were  singing  cheerfully,  we  stretched  ourselves  at  full 
length  upon  the  dry  soft  grass,  dressed  in  the  most  mod- 
ern Indian  costume  (i.  e.,  shirts)— trying  to  get  on  one 
side  as  much  heat  as  possible  from  a  brisk  fire,  while  the 
other  side  was  exposed  to  the  warming  rays  of  the  sun. 

You  can  hardly  imagine  the  exceedingly  pleasant  feel- 
ing I  experienced  now  that  for  the  first  time  in  thirty-six 
hours  I  was  again  dressed  wannly  and  comfortably,  and 
had  enjoyed  a  good  hot  dinner.  But  not  only  that,  the 
surrounding  country  looked  so  bright,  bathed  as  it  was 
in  the  warm  sunshine;  the  snow  on  the  sides  of  the  valley, 
which  was  here  only  half  a  mile  wide,  contrasted  so  beau- 
tifully with  the  bright  green  of  the  sprouting  grass  and 
the  dark  firs;  the  birds  sang  merrily  and  the  very  beetles 
were  out  on  a  picnic;  a  feeling  of  happiness,  of  delight, 
stole  over  me.  After  a  nap— I  alone  could  not  sleep,  be- 
cause I  had  to  think  on  this  day  a  great  deal  of  my  be- 
loved ones  at  home— we  began  to  explore  the  deserted 
house,  near  which  we  had  made  our  halt.     It  had  evi- 


IN.  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  23ff 

dently  been  a  tavern  in  its  better  days ;  there  was  yet  the 
bar,  an  immense  number  of  empty  bottles,  flour  sacks, 
sugar  bowls,  boxes  of  all  sizes,  etc.  While  we  were  thus 
rummaging  around,  to  see  if  we  could  find  something 
useful  which  we  might  appropriate  I  happened  to  stum- 
ble upon  a  small  keg.  I  lifted  it  up ;  it  was  rather  heavy 
and  gave  a  gurgling  sound.  I  smelled  it;  it  had  a.  pleas- 
ant spirituous  odor.  Having  advanced  thus  far  in  my 
exploring  expedition,  I -raised  an  alarm,  and  the  others 
came  to  my  assistance.  We  tasted— first  with  the  tip  of  a 
finger,  and  then  we  became  bold  and  absorbed  a  moderate 
^'snifter."  Imagine  our  surprise  when  we  found  it 
to  be  old  cognac  of  the  very  best  quality;  just  two  gal- 
lons of  it!  It  made  us  a  first  rate  punch  which  we  en- 
joyed after  supper  sitting  around  a  big  fire  till  late  in  the 
evening.  Thus  ended  my  birthday,  a  great  deal  pleas- 
anter  than  it  had  begun,  and  after  I  had  wrapped  myself 
in  my  blankets,  sleep  came  to  me  much  sooner  than  usual. 
I  could  easily  understand  that  after  the  fatiguing  trip. 

Early  on  the  following  morning  we  took  down  half  of 
our  load  and  left  it  in  the  house  in  charge  of  one  of  our 
company,  and  then  started  again  on  our  journey.  We 
found  the  road  in  a  far  better  condition  than  we  had  ex- 
pected after  our  experience  on  the  two  previous  days ;  and 
as  our  oxen  had  been  thoroughly  rested,  we  made  the  four 
miles  to  the  end  of  the  valley  in  a  little  less  than  11/2 
hours;  the  time  passed  quickly  enough  with  me,  because 
this  part  of  the  valley  offers  so  many  fine,  romantic  views. 

We  now  began  to  ascend  again,  the  first  hills  being 
about  400  or  500  feet  high,  densely  covered  with  brush- 
wood, but  showing  few  trees.  We  soon  encountered  snow 
again,  but  since  we  had  now  less  than  half  our  former 
load,  we  got  stuck  but  2  or  3  times,  and  if  one  of  our 
oxen  broke  through,  as  did  happen  now  and  then,  the 
others  soon  dragged  him  out  again.  Considering  every- 
thing, we  made  rather  good  time  for  the  next  two  miles 
on  a  bald  ridge,  which  offered  us  some  magnificent  views 
into  the  surrounding  gulches  and  the  snow  crowned 
mountains  beyond.    Then  gradually  our  ascent  began  to 


2-10    EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

get  steeper  and  steeper,  and  onr  progress  became  cor- 
respondingly slower;  the  higher  np  we  went  the  softer 
became  the  snow,  and  we  often  broke  into  it  to  above  our 
knees.  Cm'  oxen  had  a  hard  time  of  it,  and  we  were  some 
distance  yet  from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  when  a  snow- 
drift 15  feet  high  and  more  than  100  yards  wide  made 
it  impossible  for  us  to  advance  any  further  with  the  team. 
We  were  forced  to  unload  right  here,  and  while  our  team- 
ster returned  with  the  oxen  to  Grass  Valley,  the  rest  of 
us  shouldered  our  blankets  and  baggage,  and  continued 
on  our  road  alone.  "We  soon  found  that  it  was  not  an  easy 
road  to  travel;  the  snow  was  loose,  and  the  weight  on  our 
shoulders  caused  us  to  sink  into  it  to  our  middle. 

After  reaching  the  summit  we  came  into  rolling  hills, 
gradually  rising  higher  and  higher.  The  air  was  thin 
and  sharp  and  everyone  of  us  soon  complained  about  pain 
in  the  side,  chest  or  head;  at  the  same  time  the  snow 
began  to  get  softer  and  softer,  and  every  now  and  then 
some  one  of  us  would  sink  into  it  up  to  the  arm  pits,  so 
that  the  others  had  to  drag  him  out  again.  In  this  way 
we  made  about  3  miles,  when  at  11  o'clock  we  reached 
an  entirely  bald  plateau,  exposed  to  a  high  wind,  sharp 
and  cold  as  icicles.  Here,  however,  we  made  good  time. 
The  wind  which  probably  blows  here  strongly  all  the  year 
round,  had  swept  the  hard  ground  perfectly  clean  of 
snow,  while  at  other  places  it  had  blown  it  together  in 
banks  as  high  as  a  house.  In  most  cases  we  walked 
around  these  and  since  the  plateau  was  perfectly  level 
we  would  certainly  have  made  the  last  three  miles  to 
''Onion  Valley"  in  half  the  time  that  we  actually  re- 
quired if  the  tempestuous  weather  and  snowdrifts  25 
feet  high  on  this  the  8th  of  June— and  the  thin,  cutting 
air— had  not  seriously  told  on  our  lungs.  As  it  was  we 
had  to  make  a  halt  every  few  hundred  yards  to  recover 
our  breath.  It  was  2  o'clock  when  we  reached  ''Onion 
Valley,"  a  broad  ravine  al)out  300  feet  deep,  covered  with 
snow  everywhere;  a  few  stunted  firs  were  the  only  signs 
of  vegetation  I  could  discover.  Yet  there  is  on  this  des- 
olate spot  a  small  town  of  ten  or  twelve  stores  and  tav- 


IN  THE  AIINING  DISTRICT  241 

erns,  tlie  central  point  for  the  numerous  surrounding 
mining  camps.  AVe  rested  ourselves  liere  for  about  an 
hour,  and  then  began  to  ascend  the  opposite  side  from 
where  we  had  entered.  We  followed  now  a  well  traveled 
trail  which  led  us  up  the  steep  Pilot  Peak.  This  peak 
rises  about  800  feet  above  the  bottom  of  ''Onion  Valley" 
and  ends  in  two  sharp  cones,  which  on  account  of  their 
peculiar  form  make  it  a  very  conspicuous  landmark  from 
a  great  distance.  Milleson  and  Adams,  two  American 
surveyors,  give  the  height  of  the  peak  as  12,500  feet 
above  sea  level.  Our  trail  led  us  to  within  15  feet  of  the 
summit,  and  this  was  the  highest  point  I  have  ever  vis- 
ited. From  here  it  was  an  uninterrupted  descent,  follow- 
ing a  ridge  between  two  deep  gulches;  one  of  them  the 
Poonnan's  Creek,  which  in  a  semicircle  sweeps  the 
other  side  of  the  Pilot  Peak.  From  the  dizzy  height  on 
which  we  stood  this  stream,  as  it  appeared  here  and  there 
between  the  dark,  pine  covered  ridges,  looked  like  a  thin 
thread  of  silver. 

It  was  5  o'clock  when  we  arrived  at  Hopkinsville,  a 
small  mining  town  at  the  confluence  of  Poonnan's  and 
Hopkins'  Ci-eeks,  and  at  7  o'clock  we  reached  my  pres- 
ent home,  a  loghouse  a  full  mile  below  Hopkinsville  on 
Nelson  Creek.  (Hopkins  Creek  flows  into  Nelson  Creek 
a  few  hundred  yards  above  our  abode.)  We  were  not 
slow  in  throwing  down  our  bundles  and  doing  justice  to 
supper,  which  we  found  awaiting  us. 

I  am  pleased  with  the  aspect  of  the  country".  Accord- 
ing to  my  estimate — uncertaiji  at  best,  I  know — our  log- 
house  on  Nelson  Creek  must  be  nearly  on  the  same  ele- 
vation with  Grass  Valley,  and  certainly  considerably  be- 
low "Onion  Valley."  The  climate  is  mild  and  pleasant; 
the  air  is  very  pure;  snow  is  to  be  seen  only  400  or  500 
feet  above  us  on  top  of  the  ravine  where,  however,  it 
never  entirely  disappears;  even  not  during  the  heat  of 
summer.  I  am  justified  in  calling  this  a  ravine  and  not 
a  valley,  because  the  lower  end  is  so  narrow  that  the  bed 
of  this  rushing  stream  takes  up  the  whole  width  of  it; 
the  hills  on  both  sides  being  more  or  less  densely  covered 
with  firs. 

16 


242  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

There  are  numerous  wild,  charming  spots  on  this  creek 
above  as  well  as  below  us,  towards  its  mouth;  it  empties 
into  the  northeast  fork  of  the  Feather  River,  about  eight 
miles  from  here.  My  time  does  not  allow  me  to  exjDlore 
these  places,  and  so  I  have  to  be  satisfied  when  chance 
takes  me  to  one  of  them. 

September  19tli. 

Ti^uly  everything  is  going  to  pieces,  and  if  an  earth- 
quake were  to  swallow  up  this  whole  country,  I  would 
not  care  a  cent  about  it!  I  cannot  advance  a  single  step 
forward.  At  this  moment  I  might  as  well  say  that  I  have 
to  begin  anew  again;  my  money  is  very  nearly  all  gone; 
what  little  I  have  left  will  certainly  go,  too;  and  I  have 
to  commence  again  to  work  for  the  paltry  few  dollars  I 
need  to  pay  for  my  board.  But  I  want  to  get  ahead,  and 
I  will  get  ahead  even  if  I  have  to  begin  anew  again  a 
hundred  times,  and  if  I  have  to  burrow  through  the  big- 
gest mountains  of  California. 

Now,  let  me  tell  you  just  how  it  all  happened.  Such 
is  life  in  California. 

When  I  arrived  at  Nelson  Creek,  I  found  liothrock  and 
his  four  partners  to  be  as  honorable,  pleasant  men  as  any 
one  can  wish  for.  It  is  true  the  work  was  very  hard;  at 
times  I  thought  I  could  not  stand  it  any  longer,  or  I 
would  succumb ;  and  I  was  at  the  point  of  throwing  down 
my  tools  and  quitting;  but  shame  kept  me  from  doing  so; 
I  strained  every  nerve,  and  when  evening  came  I  looked 
with  satisfaction  on  mj''  day's  work;  and  on  the  follow- 
ing morning  I  would  think  **well,  you  stood  it  yesterday, 
and  so  you  will  be  able  to  stand  it  today,"  and  so  it  went 
on  day  after  day.  I  said  that  the  work  was  very  hard; 
but  I  cannot  say  that  we  were  worked  beyond  our  ability ; 
and  after  I  had  got  used  to  it  and  accustomed  to  the  rare 
air  of  this  high  altitude,  which  inconvenienced  me  very 
much  in  the  beginning,  I  must  confess  I  liked  it  verj' 
well  up  there.  Besides  this,  my  pay  was  sure  and  I  was 
in  hopes  that  I  would  be  able  to  stay  with  Rothrock  until 
the  beginning  of  winter.    As  you  are  aware,  this  hope  was 


IN  THE  AIIXING  DISTRICT  243 

not  verified.  Eothrock  and  his  company  had  such  poor 
success  that  he  was  compelled  to  discharge  all  his  hired 
men,  I  being  one  of  them.  I  regretted  to  have  to  leave 
these  good  people,  to  whom  I  had  really  become  at- 
tached during  the  time  I  remained  with  them;  and 
there  being  no  prosj^ect  of  finding  work  again  in  the  near 
future,  and— considering  the  enormous  prices  charged 
for  provisions— and  that  there  was  no  chance  for  me*  to 
make  a  living  by  working  alone,  I  packed  my  bundle  and 
started  back  again  on  my  way  to  Long  Bar.  I  must  say 
I  disliked  to  do  so.  Of  late  several  men  had  been  robbed 
and  killed  on  the  road;  but  there  was  no  alternative  for 
me,  and  so  I  started.  On  account  of  the  insecurity  of  the 
road,  I  thought  it  best  to  make  forced  marches,  and  so  I 
reached  Long  Bar  towards  evening  on  the  third  day. 

There  was  something  oppressive  in  the  aspect  of  Long 
Bar,  it  looked  deserted,  quiet  almost  as  a  gi'aveyard.  The 
few  people  I  met  on  the  street  looked  like  wandering 
corpses;  they  were  barely  able  to  drag  themselves  for- 
ward. On  the  bar  itself  it  was  only  here  and  there,  at 
long  intervals,  that  one  saw  a  man  at  work,  who  had  so 
far  escaped  fever  and  dysentery. 

I  would  have  preferred  to  leave  again  at  once,  but 
would  it  have  helped  me  any?  and  whither  should  I  have 
gone:— there  was  nothing  left  for  me,  but  to  go  to  work 
and  take  my  chances. 

I  have  previously  explained  to  you  what  sort  of  work 
I  am  doing  here.  We  had  already  purchased  the  neces- 
sary machinery,  pumps,  etc.,  when  siclmess  began  to  take 
down  our  men  one  after  another;  and  within  a  few  days 
we  were  compelled  to  stop  work  altogether.  I  kept  up 
to  the  last.  But  during  the  hot  days  of  this  month,  I  too 
Was  taken  down  with  fever.  It  is  true,  I  had  only  one 
chill;  but  that  has  reduced  me  to  such  a  degree,  that  up 
to  this  day  I  have  been  unable  to  do  even  the  slightest 
work.  I  am  yet  very  weak,  but  I  will  go  to  work  to-mor- 
row, so  as  to  make  some  money;  my  purse  is  getting  to 
be  very  slender. 

There  you  see  now:— such  is  life  in  California;— con- 


244  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

stantly  up  hill,  and  down  again.  A  man  wlio  is  well  off 
to-day,  may  go  to  bed  to-morrow  evening  without  a  cent 
in  his  pocket.  Some  weeks  ago  I  considered  myself  a 
well-to-do  miner;  to-day  I  can  hardly  afford  to  offer  a 
smoke  to  my  friends,  who  come  to  see  me  in  my  tent.  But 
it  must  be  a  long  road  that  has  no  turn;  if  it  is  "up  hill" 
now,  it  certainly  must  go  "down  hill"  sooner  or  later.  I 
mean  to  keep  cool  and  to  do  all  I  can.  If  I  only  can  keep 
in  good  health  now;  of  the  rest  I  shall  take  care. 

There  is  still  considerable  sickness  here,  but  the  tem- 
perature is  improving;  now  and  then  we  see  rain  clouds, 
and — what  is  very  pleasant — nearly  every  day  at  about 
noon,  we  have  a  strong  wind  from  the  north,  moderating 
the  heat  and  purifying  the  atmospliere. 

On  our  wingdam  we  shall  probably  not  work  again. 
Two  of  our  company  have  died  of  fever,  and  all  the  rest 
of  us  are  down  with  it  yet,  with  the  exception  of  myself 
and  another— an  American.  Our  prospect,  too,  was  so 
l)Oor,  and  we  have  to  dig  so  deep  for  the  gold,  that  it 
will  not  repay  ns. 

But  let  us  turn  now  to  something  more  pleasant, — to 
your  dear  letters.  You  ask  me  several  questions  which 
I  will  now  answer. 

First  let  me  thank  you,  my  dear  father,  for  the  kind 
advice  you  give  me,  based  on  your  own  experiences  dur- 
ing your  campaigns.  Such  things  we  soon  learn  here 
from  one  another;  the  whole  life  of  a  Califoraia  miner  is 
nothing  else  but  a  campaign.  If  he  has  a  claim  which 
gives  him  work  for  any  length  of  time,  he  generally  lives 
in  a  tent;  drives  four  low  posts  into  the  ground,  nails  to 
these  two  pieces  lengthways  and  two  across;  on  these  he 
nails  a  few  potato  sacks,  and  thus  he  has  a  solid  bed- 
stead. Only  when  lie  is  traveling  or  prospecting  he 
sleeps  out  in  the  open. 

But  you  and  all  of  you  may  rest  perfectly  tranquil.  T 
know  too  well  what  a  blessing  it  is  to  enjoy  good  health, 
and  how  easy  it  is  to  get  careless  in  regard  to  it.  It  needs 
no  admonishing  about  that,  because  our  work  here  is 
already  dangerous  enough  to  health  and  limbs;  besides, 
there  is  no  escaping  the  inevitable. 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  245 

I  am  glad  that  you  have  kept  our  ''memorial  day"  in 
the  Warschkeitei  Hills.  I  never  doubted  that  you  would 
do  so.  And  we  had  our  celebration  on  the  very  same  day 
too  (Saturday,  April  10th);  because  I  remembered  just 
in  time  that  I  was  mistaken  in  thinking  the  day  after 
Easter  was  our  day.  That  day  ivill  forever  he  a  holiday 
to  us.  I  passed  the  evening  of  that  day  at  the  place  near 
Long  Bar,  which  I  have  described  to  you  at  length  in  my 
letter  No.  15.    That  place  has  a  great  charm  for  me.* 

I  am  unable,  my  dear  father,  to  give  you  the  exact  dif- 
ference of  time  between  here  and  there,  because  I  do  not 
exactly  remember  the  degree  of  longitude  under  which 
San  Francisco  is  situated.  But  you  can  easily  figure  it 
out  yourself,  if  you  will  look  at  a  map,  and  multiply  the 
number  of  degrees  of  longitude  between  Konigsberg  and 
San  Francisco  b}^  four  minutes.  (Ever^^  degree  more  to 
the  East  or  West  makes  a  difference  of  4  minutes:  360 
degrees  X  4  min.  =  1440  min.  =  24  hours.) 

Juniper  brush  or  any  similar  aromatic  wood  I  have 
not  noticed  here  yet. 

You  mention  in  your  letter  the  ''cugar."  I  do  not 
know  of  any  animal  bearing  that  name,  but  I  presume  it 


*Note  by  Frank's  Father. — The  following  will  here  serve  as 
an  explanation.  On  April  19th,  185 1 — the  day  before  Easter — 
Frank  with  his  father  and  Moritz  Ruhdel  took  a  very  pleasant 
walk — the  last  one — starting  from  Eylan  going  through  an  ex- 
tensive forest  and  back  across  the  Warschkeiter  Hills,  from  where 
one  has  an  extensive  view  over  the  surrounding  country.  Dur- 
ing the  rest  we  took  there,  the  conversation  turned  upon  his  ap- 
proaching departure,  and  the  great  distance  he  had  to  go,  and  in 
the  serious  frame  of  mind  produced  by  this,  Frank  asked  as  a 
favor,  that  this  day  be  made  a  "memorial  day"  for  him,  to  be 
passed  by  us  all  in  the  years  to  come  in  a  similar  manner.  The 
assent  was  readily  given. 

In  his  letter  written  February  8th,  1852,  Frank  reminds  us  of 
this  promise  given  "for  the  day  after  Easter,"  and  he  was 
answered  in  a  letter  v/ritten  on  Alay  5th,  that  "memorial  day" 
was  not  on  the  day  after  Easter,  but  on  the  day  before  Easter; 
and  that  day  we  celebrated  on  the  Warschkeiter  Mountain  by 
kindling  a  mighty  fire  of  Juniper  brush,  and  keeping  it  burning 
for  about  an  hour. 


246  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

means  what  is  here  called  the  "California  Lion."  The 
animal  belongs  to  the  feline  family,  grows  as  large  as  a 
powerful  dog,  has  a  more  slender  figure,  and  an  immense 
long  tail.  Its  color  is  a  dirty,  yellowish  grey,  and  it  is 
anything  but  handsome.  Though  large,  it  is  one  of  the 
least  dangerous  of  the  wild  animals;  it  is  so  shy  and 
timid,  that  the  hunter  finds  it  a  difficult  matter  to  get  a 
shot  at  it,  and  is  seldom  found  on  this  side  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada,  but  it  is  quite  numerous  on  the  eastern  side, 
which  is  steeper  and  more  inaccessible,  and  in  the  adjoin- 
ing desert. 

There  is  another  beast  of  prey  here,  also  belonging  to 
the  feline  family,  which,  though  smaller  than  the  Cali- 
fornia lion,  is  much  more  dangerous.  It  is  the  catamount, 
or  the  mountain  cat.  I  have  not  yet  had  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  one,  but  I  have  been  told  that  these  animals 
are  exceedingly  ferocious,  hiding  in  trees  and  between 
rocks,  attacking  men  by  jumping  from  there  on  their 
victims.  They  are  numerous  and  mostly  found  in  the 
deep  ravines  of  the  Sierra  Nevada. 

Another  animal  of  prey  belonging  to  this  class,  and  met 
with  quite  often,  is  the  common  wild-cat,  which  resem- 
bles the  domestic  cat,  but  is  larger,  stronger  and  very 
savage. 

The  most  numerous  of  the  animals  of  prey,  and  at  the 
same  lime  the  least  dangerous  of  all,  is  the  coj'ote,  the 
California  wolf.  In  shape  and  color  he  resembles  a  fox, 
only  he  is  larger.  Hundreds  of  them  are  often  found  to- 
gether, and  they  are  so  timid,  that  they  will  never  go 
near  a.  man.  But  I  doubt,  if  it  would  be  safe  for  a  man 
to  get  into  a  band  of  hungry  coyotes ;  they  are  good  sized, 
strong  beasts.  But  if  we  can  not  see  them  in  the  daytime, 
we  can  hear  them  howl  ever\^  night,  when  they  are  out 
on  their  marauding  expeditions. 

The  worst  customer  to  meet  however  is  the  grizzly — 
the  great  Califoraia  bear— a  perfect  monster,  I  have 
seen  one  in  a  cage,  which  measured,  standing  on  his  hind 
feet,  11  feet  6  inches ;  twice  as  high  as  a  man.  T  have 
never  before  seen  or  heard  of  anything  like  it,  and  have 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  247 

been  told  that  they  are  found  only  in  California  and  Ore- 
gon. They  are  really  dangerous  to  animals  and  human 
beings,  and  are  more  numerous  in  the  mountains  than  the 
miners  like  to  have  them.  In  the  week  before  I  left  Nelson 
Creek,  two  of  them  were  killed  between  Onion  Valley  and 
Nelson  Creek,  and  six  between  Nelson  Creek  and  Jamison 
Creek.  One  evening,  as  I  was  walking  along  Nelson 
Creek,  I  saw  a  grizzly  descend  the  other  side  going  to 
water.  I  was  able  to  take  a  good  look  at  him,  because 
I  was  on  a  higher  ridge  and  near  some  houses.  I  was  con- 
siderably more  scared,  however,  on  my  last  trip  here  from 
Nelson  Creek,  when— near  Onion  Valley— I  saw  the  fresh 
tracks  and  other  signs  of  a  grizzly  on  the  road.  The 
tracks  of  the  hind  feet  were  more  than  18  inches  long,  and 
you  may  believe  me  that  I  kept  my  eyes  and  ears  open, 
because  he  certainly  had  passed  there  not  more  than  10  or 
15  minutes  previously,— the  snow  in  the  tracks  being  yet 
freshly  disturbed.  I  thought  every  moment  I  should  see 
the  beast,  and  what  made  my  position  more  unpleasant 
was,  that  in  the  dense  chaparral  or  copsewood  there,  I 
could  not  see  ten  yards  ahead,  and  my  heavy  load  had 
made  me  feel  stiff  and  dull. 

Except  these  mentioned  above,  I  do  not  know  of  any 
animals  of  prey;  but  these  should  suffice  without  adding 
the  wild  Mexican  cattle;  but  we  must  not  forget  the  fleas, 
bedbugs  and  vermin  which  infest  California  by  the 
myriads,  causing  to  us  poor  mortals  a  great  deal  more 
trouble  than  those  large  beasts  do. 

Snakes  I  have  mentioned  before.  There  are  a  great 
many  of  them,  and  some  of  them  very  poisonous;  but 
they  are  not  by  far  as  dangerous  as  reported.  To  be 
afraid  of  snakes  in  a  country  which  is  so  full  of  them  as 
California,  is  quite  as  foolish  as  to  be  afraid  of  ghosts. 
All  a  man  has  to  do  is  to  keep  his  eyes  open  in  walking 
through  the  grass,  and  to  wear  topboots  of  heavy  leather, 
and  there  is  no  danger. 

My  sincerest  thanks  for  the  news  you  write  to  me. 
None  of  you  have  the  faintest  idea,  how  even  the  smallest 
trifles  in  that  line  interest  me.    Poor    *    *    *    i  feel 


248  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

sorry  for  him  with  my  whole  heart;  it  was  nobly  done, 
and  his  wife  is  deserving  the  fullest  credit  for  it,  that 
she,  who  was  tied  to  him  only  by  duty,  attended  him  so 
faithfully,  until  death  relieved  him.  The  misfortunes  in 
the  *  *  *  and  *  *  *  families  are  much  to  be 
deplored.  I  hope  and  wish  that  things  have  changed 
since  for  the  better.  I  am  glad  to  hear  that  *  *  * 
and  *  *  *  are  to  be  engaged,  and  possibly  they  are 
man'ied  by  this  time.  Everybody  gets  married,  and  I— 
^'I  remain  sangle  and  my  aine"— as  Newman  says. 
Enough  for  to-day. 

October  10th,  1852  (Long  Bar). 

It  really  taxes  to  the  utmost  all  the  mental  energy'  and 
self-reliance  this  wild  life  in  California  has  imparted  to 
me,  to  make  me  keep  my  head  above  water.  Since  my 
arrival  in  California  (with  perhaps  the  exception  of  the 
two  months  I  have  been  at  Nelson  Cteek),  I  have  had  to 
fight  adversity  after  adversity.  Were  I  still  the  weakling, 
the  physically— and  mentally— sick  boy  I  was  when  I 
left  you,  by  heavens!— I  would  have  blown  my  brains  out 
ere  this.  But  now  I  am  too  proud  to  do  that;  I  will  not 
be  bowed  down  by  misfortune.  Not  in  vain  will  I  have 
gone  through  the  test  so  far;  and,  though  should  adver- 
sity strike  me  again  with  double  and  treble  force,  I  shall 
meet  it. 

Now  let  me  tell  you  what  happened  to  me,  since  I  wrote 
my  last  lines  on  the  19th  ult. 

I  spent  nearly  my  last  dollar  in  buying  a  claim,  and— 
though  I  felt  very  weak  yet,— I  went  to  work  with  a  will, 
and  finding  that  my  claim  paid  me  as  well  as  I  expected, 
I  felt  that  I  was  again  in  a  fair  way  to  make  some  money. 
But  my  hope  was  short  lived,  it  lasted  only  5  days;  on 
Saturday,  the  25th  of  last  month,  I  was  taken  down  with 
dysenter>%  and  so  severely  that  I  was  hardly  able  to  drag 
myself  to  my  tent.  I  have  been  down  with  it  all  of  last 
week,  and  at  times  I  felt  so  bad,  that  I  thought  this  let- 
ter would  never  be  finished,  and  that  I  should  soon  ex- 
change my  claim  on  the  bar  for  a  "claim  on  the  Mil"— 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  249 

that  is  tlie  cemetery  of  Long  Bar.  As  it  happened,  I  did 
not;— and  my  good  constitution  and  perhaps  the  physi- 
cian, who  kept  me  busy  swallowing  medicine,  have  pulled 
me  through;  and  now  all  danger  is  passed,  and  you  need 
not  in  the  least  feel  uneasy.  Yet  I  must  say,  I  am  still 
very  weak,  and  that  I  have  during  the  last  few  days  only, 
been  able  to  make  just  enough  to  pay  my  board  bill  at 
the  inn.  I  hope  to  get  better  by  degrees,  and  if  I  only 
get  strong  again,  I  shall  soon  have  money  again  too,  be- 
cause a  full  day 's  work  in  my  claim,  will  always  give  me 
6  or  7  dollars. 

The  general  state  of  health  here  at  the  Bar  has  evi- 
dently improved  considerably.  During  my  sickness,  how- 
ever, and  in  the  previous  week,  it  was  worse  than  ever. 
Around  our  boarding-house  alone,  cholera  and  dysentery 
carried  off  three  and  four  victims  every  day;  the  former 
claimed  its  victims  generally  within  a  few  hours.  I  have 
sat  at  the  breakfast  table  with  apparently  well  people, 
who,  when  I  returned  from  my  work  in  the  evening,  I 
learned  had  been  buried.  Of  our  wingdam  company,  two 
more  have  gone  to  their  last  resting  place,  so  that  four 
out  of  ten  of  our  number  have  been  buried.  During  this 
present  week,  however,  I  have  not  heard  of  a  single  case 
of  cholera,  and  only  one  man  has  died;  but  he  had  been 
hopelessly  sick  for  several  months. 

The  only  rays  of  sunshine  during  all  this  suffering  and 
sorrow  were  your  dear  letters  No.  11  of  May  5th,  and  No. 
12  of  June  7th— for  which  I  thank  you  with  all  my  heart. 

You  have  had  bad  weather  during  this  spring,  as  I  see 
hy  your  letter  of  May  5tli,  my  dear  father;  but  you  must 
not  imagine  that  the  weather  in  California  during  the 
summer  season  is  the  same  as  it  is  in  spring.  It  may  not 
be  pleasant  to  have  to  start  fire  in  your  stove  in  May, 
but  it  is  much  less  so— you  may  believe  me— to  have  to 
work  hard  in  the  sun  when  the  thermometer  rises  to'  30° 
E.  in  the  shade.  The  air  is  hot  as  if  it  came  out  of  a  fur- 
nace; it  is  useless  to  look  anywhere  for  a  moment's  relief; 
it  is  as  bad  in  the  shade  of  a  tree  as  it  is  out  in  the  sun, — 
for  the  glaring  rays,  coming  down  day  after  day  from 


250  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

a  cloudless,  almost  tropical  sky,  heat  the  ver\"  soil  to 
such  a  degree  as  j'ou  can  hardly  believe.  You  may  think 
I  am  exaggerating,  but  it  is  the  plain  truth.  /  have  had 
my  fingers  blistered  hij  touching  stones,  uhich  had  been 
exposed  to  the  noonday  siui.  You  take  refuge  from  the 
cold  near  the  hot  stove;  but  where  are  we  to  find  refuge 
from  the  heat?  In  our  low  naiTOw  tents  we  feel  it  a 
great  deal  more,  as  you  can  well  imagine.  To  warm 
yourself  you  drink  hot  tea  or  hot  coffee;  but  what  shall 
we  do  to  loosen  the  tongue  which  actually  clings  to  the 
roof  of  the  mouth?  For  miles  around  the  springs  are 
dried  up,  and  all  that  is  left  to  us  is  the  thick  muddy 
water  in  the  rivei',  and  that  is  more  than  lukewarm.  Not 
a  blade  of  gi'een  grass  to  gladden  the  eye,  not  a  flower 
to  exhale  its  fragrance,— everj^thing  is  withered,  dead; 
the  very  leaves  on  the  trees  and  bushes  are  parched  and 
shriveled,  and  they  would  rustle  as  the  leaves  with  you 
in  the  fall  of  the  year,  if  ever  the  slightest  breeze  would 
stir  the  hot  atmosphere. 

Such  is  the  climate  here  in  the  summer ;  it  is  really  no 
better,  at  least  not  in  the  interior  of  the  state;  along  the 
coast,  it  is  incomparably  better  on  account  of  the  proxim- 
ity of  the  sea.  Beautiful,  glorious  is  the  climate  in  this 
part  of  California,  only  during  a  few  months  in  the 
spring;  in  the  summer  you  are  roasted,  and  in  the  winter 
you  may  get  drowned  in  rain  and  mud. 

In  your  letter  of  May  5th  I  find  a  passage, — now  do 
not  get  angry  my  dear,  my  beloved  father,— which, 
though  j^our  love  for  me  speaks  out  of  every  word  of  it, 
caused  me  almost  a  smile.  Is  it  really  impossible  for 
you  to  have  more  confidence  in  me?  Is  Emil  Boettcher  to 
lead  me  whither  he  will  to  my  hurt?  Here  in  California, 
and  I  believe  nowhere  else  in  this  world  to  the  same 
degree,  does  this  saying  hold  good,  and  this  alone,— 
"Himself  is  the  man."  ■\Vliosoever  does  not  stand 
firmly  on  his  oiin  feet,  is  swallowed  up  in  an  instant  as 
by  a  roaring  whirlpool,  and  the  greatest  exertions  only 
may  perhaps  bring  hijn  again  to  the  surface.  That  I 
am  yet  on  top,  will,  I  hope,  give  you  confidence  in  me 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  251 

and  confidence  in  my  energy,  even  if  I  am  young  in  years 
yet ;  have  confidence  and  all  your  doubts  about  my  future 
will  vanish.  AVith  my  experience,  my  energy  increases 
day  by  day;  and  should  a  man  not  be  safe  in  a  stream, 
where  the  feeble  inexperienced  boy  has  kept  himself 
afloat  so  long?  Answer  that  question  to  yourself,  my 
dear  father. 

And  now  let  me  answer  your  question  about  Griin- 
hagen  and  Olias,  my  original  companions,  whom  I  have 
not  mentioned  lately.  After  having  worked  together  in 
the  mines  for  a  few  days,  there  were  plain  indications, 
that  our  company  would  not  last  long.  The  first  condi- 
tion for  the  permanent  existence  of  such  a  union,  is  com- 
plete harmony  in  everj^thing,  that  may  lead  to  success, 
and  that  was  lacking  with  us.  As  long  as  Emil  Boett- 
cher's  soothing  influence  was  felt  among  us— I  am  sure 
Kosenstock  has  not  exaggerated  in  describing  it  to  you 
— everything  went  all  right;  but  very  soon  after  he  had 
left  us  to  go  to  Lucius'  farm  on  the  Feather  River,  we 
dissolved  our  partnership,  though  in  a  thoroughly 
friendly  way.  Olias  went  to  work  on  Feather  Eiver,  at 
the  mouth  of  Nelson  Creek;  and  Grtinhagen,  with  whom 
I  remained  for  a  while  longer,  went  afterwards  to  Inde- 
pendence Bar,  where  Boettcher  also  went,  on  returning 
to  the  mines  from  Lucius'  farm.  Ever  since  that  time — 
or  since  we  dissolved  partnership— the  most  cordial  rela- 
tions have  existed  between  us.  Of  Olias,  however,  I 
have  not  heard  since  I  left  Nelson  Ci'eek;  Griinhagen 
and  Boettcher  I  have  visited,  nearly  every  Sunday  at 
Independence  Bar.  In  June  Boettcher  fell  sick  and  was 
compelled  to  go  to  San  Francisco,  and  Griinhagen  fol- 
lowed him  soon  afterwards.  A  letter  from  the  former, — 
the  same  which  transmitted  to  me  your  two  letters,— 
told  me  that  Griinhagen  has  not  jet  succeeded  in  finding 
employment.  In  this  letter  Emil  advises  me,  in  earnest 
and  not  to  be  mistaken  language,  not  to  come  to  San 
Francisco;  and  his  elder  brother— an  excellent  man,  cool 
headed  and  intelligent,  in  whom  I  have  the  most  implicit 
confidence — who  wrote  to  me  at  the  same  time,  gives  me 


263  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

tlic  same  advice;  the  mines  being  in  their  opinion,  for 
the  present  at  least,  the  better  place  to  make  a  living. 
Emil  even  tells  me  that  he  might  return  here,  if  his 
health,  which  has  been  undermined  by  fever,  will  permit 
him. 

Considering  everything,  you  must  see  now  for  j'our- 
self,  my  dear  father,  that,  apparently  I  can  not  do  any- 
thing to  ease  your  mind  about  me.  All  I  can  do  is,  to 
give  you  in  my  letters  a  plain  and  true  statement  of  my 
life  here  and  of  my  affairs.  And  then  I  can  and  must 
ask  this  of  you:  have  the  most  hnplicit  confidence  in  your 
son;  you  icill  never  have  cause  to  regret  it.  This,  I  feel 
confident  will  help  more  than  anything  else,  to  relieve 
your  mind  of  any  uneasiness  about  me. 

This  much  in  answer  to  your  first  letter;  and  now  to 
your  second  of  June  7th,  which— I  must  confess— has 
pleased  me  a  great  deal  better  than  the  former,  because 
it  shows  me  that  you  are  beginning  to  gain  confidence  in 
me.  In  this  respect,  I  hope,  you  will  not,  allow  Aunt 
Carola  to  surpass  you!  Xow,  now— that  would  not  be 
right ! 

To  show  you  that  I  will  do  all  I  can  to  quiet  your  ap- 
prehensions, I  sat  down  immediately  upon  receipt  of  your 
letter  and  have  drawn  my  own  portrait,  as  well  as  I  could. 
I  herewith  inclose  it.  I  dare  say,  I  made  a  success  of  it. 
What  do  you  say  about  that  large  hat,  and  the  still  larger 
boots?  (Plague  take  them  for  keeping  my  feet  sore  con- 
tinually) ;  what  do  you  say  about  my  mustache  and  my 
whiskers?  Eh?  About  these  however— the  whiskers— 
I  must  confess  that  they  are  just  a  little  exaggerated;  I 
had  a  little  too  much  ink  in  my  pen  when  I  did  them. 
And  then— my  pipe;  what  do  you  think  about  that?  Is  it 
not  a  really  beautiful  ensemble?  especially  so  when  you 
consider  that  the  somewhat  dubious  background  is  a  — 
mudbank. 

If  Aunt  should  ever  read  again  mining  novels  to 
Froehlich's  children,  send  her  this  portrait;  that  she  may 
know  exactly  how  a  Konigsberger  looks,  after  he  has 
been  transformed  into  a  Califomia  miner.    But,  by-the- 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  253 

way,  August  Froelilicli,  like  a  civilized  European,  knows 
how  to  use  paint  and  brush;  should  he  want  to  color  the 
portrait  I  will  here  give  him  a  full  list  of  the  colors  he 
will  have  to  use: 

Hat,  brown  felt,  almost  new,  but  badly  sprinkled  with 

mud. 
Face,  a  brownish  yellow;  the  color  approaching  nearest 

to  it,  is  that  of  a  very  dirty  shirt. 
Hair,  fair;  heard  reddish. 

Pipe,  clay,  an  old  stump,  dark  brown,  nearly  black. 
Shirt,  originally  red;  wearing  and  washing  have  in  places 

lightened  the  color,  and  darkened  it  in  others;  a 

dark  reddish  brown  now;  in  spots,— as  you  will 

see — it  is  torn  and  patched. 
Undershirt,  striped  white  and  blue,  somewhat  worn  but 

clean. 
Belt,    black    leather;    pistol,    the    national     California 

weapon,  a  Colt's  revolver,  five  shots,  and  sure  to 

hit  a  card  at  30  yards. 
Trousers,  difficult  to  describe,  fancy  mud  color;  when 

new  they  were  grey.    The  patch  on  the  right  knee 

is  cut  from  a  blue  flannel  shirt;  the  lower  one  on 

the  left  knee  is  from  a  piece  of  sailcloth;  the  upper 

one  is  cut  out  of  a  black  coat. 
Boots,  any  color  except  black;   the  leather  on  the  few 

spots  not  covered  by  mud,  looks  a  reddish  brown. 

Thus,  and  exactly  thus,  looks  the  transformed  Frank 
Lecouvreur  in  his  working  suit. 

In  regard  to  your  remark,  that,  what  Eosenstock  says 
about  our  being  in  a  German  boarding  house,  may  seem- 
to  be  not  true— because  I  spoke  in  my  letter  about  pan- 
cakes which  I  bake  myself;— I  must  say,  however,  that 
both  statements  are  correct.  We  certainly  lived  during 
the  time  we  were  in  partnership,  in  a  boarding  house 
here;  but  afterwards  I  prepared  my  own  meals,  because 
I  found  it  to  be  cheaper.  In  whatever  we  do  here  in 
California,  we  must  be  guided  by  circumstances,  as  I  told 


254  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

you  before.  For  instance,  just  at  present  I  am  again  at 
a  boarding  house;  simply  because,  while  I  am  sick,  I 
have  better  care  there;  I  can  have  a  cup  of  tea,  or  any- 
thing I  need  on  short  notice,  and  do  not  have  to  prepare 
it  myself;  I  can  select  among  dilferent  icell  prepared 
dishes  what  suits  me  best;  and  last,  but  not  least,  the 
l)rices  of  provisions  are  so  high  at  present,  that  the  small 
saving  which  miglit  be  effected— perhaps  2  or  3  dollars 
a  week — does  not  amount  to  anything,  when  you  think 
what  it  is  to  supply  myself  with  wood  and  water;  and 
when  I  consider  what  time  it  takes  to  prepare  my  meals. 
This  alone  would  occupy  me  one  or  two  hours  a  day ;  but 
during  the  same  time  I  can  take  out  of  my  claim  double 
the  amount  I  might  save  in  jDreparing  my  own  meals.  I 
shall  remain  in  this  boarding  house  until  I  am  quite  well 
again,  and  until  through  cheaper  provisions  I  can  effect 
a  saving. 

Flour  is  worth  now,  lb $  .25 

Rice " 25 

Ham  " 50 

Tea '' 1.25 

Onions * ' 25 

Crackers   " 35 

Candles    each 15 

Beans    lb 35 

Salt  pork   " 40 

Coffee " 40 

Potatoes    '' 15 

Fresh  beef " 25 

Cheese  " 30 

Matches,  pr.  hundred 121/2 

I  am  very  glad  to  see  that  you,  my  dearest  mother, 
take  such  a  kind  interest  in  *  *  *  and  *  *  * 
the  only  two  friends  I  had  in  Konigsberg.  Though  en- 
tirely different  in  their  ways,  they  have  this  in  common, 
both  are  pleasant  and  thorough  gentlemen.  Your  hint, 
that  I  might  have  the  pleasure  to  grasp  my  dear    *     *  * 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  255 

by  the  hand  here  in  this  country,  startled  me  like  an  elec- 
tric shock.  Yes,  let  him  come  and  try  his  luck,  and  let 
him  steel  his  body  and  energy  as  I  have  done.  It  is  true, 
I  have  heard  Califoraia  cursed  by  immigrants  thousands 
of  times;  I  have  seen  men— old  women  I  ought  to  say — 
shed  tears,  because  they  had  exchanged  their  comfortable 
homes  elsewhere  for  a  mining  claim  in  California ;  I  have 
seen  men  land  here  from  one  steamer,  and  start  back  for 
home  again  on  the  Yevj  next  boat  (literally  true!);  and 
I  would  never  advise  anyone  to  come  hcTC;  but  *  *  * 
is  so  much  like  myself  that  I  will  say  out  of  the  depth  of 
my  heart:  "let  him  come,  if  he  has  a  desire  to  see  the 
world."  He  will  find  in  me  the  same  friend  I  used  to 
be,  and  as  long  as  I  have  a  crust  of  bread  and  a  blanket, 
he  shall  not  go  hungry  or  cold. 

And  now  I  come  to  you,  my  little  gossip,  my  dear 
Marie.  A  pity  that  *  *  *  (Jied  so  young;  he  was  a 
gifted  painter  and  would  have  accomplished  much.  That 
my  place  at  the  christening  at  Podlechen  was  kept  open, 
I  will  believe.  I  know  how  kindly  you  all  feel  towards 
me;  another  reason  probably  was,  that  Carl  has  named 
his  firstborn  after  me.  When  Lucinde  will  have  pre- 
sented him  with  eleven  more,  let  him  come  here,  he  can 
then  start  a  farm  and  have  a  little  kingdom  of  his  own. 
— And  so  grandpa  has  now  two  Franks  among  his  de- 
scendants; one  a  big  good-for-nothing  fellow,  who  roams 
at  large;  and  a  little  one,  who  if  everything  goes  satis- 
factorily, may  also  become  a  good-for-nothing;  but  who, 
I  hope,  will  not  turn  out  any  worse,  than  I  am. 

For  the  present :  Good  night ! 

San  Francisco,  Cal.,  October  27th,  1852. 
You  will  undoubtedly  be  surprised  to  hear  that  I  am 
in  San  Francisco;  but  it  came  about  in  a  ver^^  simple  way. 
When  I  found  that  my  health  would  not  improve  in  any 
way,  I  made  up  my  mind  to  take  a  trip  to  this  city.  It 
is  now  about  two  weeks  that  I  have  been  here;  but 
though  immediately  after  my  arrival  I  placed  myself  in 
the  hands  of  a,  German  physician  (Dr.  Wedekind)  who 


256  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEX  GATE 

was  recommended  to  me  by  Boettclier,— I  must  say  I  am 
gaining  very  slowly,  tliougli  I  am  somewliat  better.  You 
can  Lave  no  idea  how  this  malarious  fever  here  reduces 
a  man;  I  would  not  have  believed  it.  I  take  the  matter 
very  coolly  though;  I  must  ultimately  get  well  again. 
That  this  sickness  is  a  great  injury  to  me  in  a  pecuniary 
way,  you  can  imagine;  this  is  what  troubles  me.  Not 
only  that  all  I  had  went  to  the  doctor,  but  I  am  in  debt ; 
and  unless  an  unforeseen  lucky  chance  tuiTis  up  (which 
is  not  at  all  likely)  I  shall  not  be  able  to  save  anj^thing 
during  the  next  six  months.  Well,  I  will  not  lose  heart 
on  that  account:  "Es  muss  docli  wieder  werden,"  (It 
must  come  our  way  again)  as  our  grandma  used  to  say. 
Others  have  had  worse  experiences  than  I, 

I  saw  Olias  on  the  day  before  I  left  Long  Bar;  the 
poor  fellow  has  fared  rather  badly.  From  Nelson  Ci:'eek, 
where  he  did  not  succeed,  he  went  to  Canon  Creek  (on 
the  upper  Yuba),  and  here  286  dollars  were  stolen  from 
him  about  fourteen  days  afterwards.  He  followed  the 
thief  to  San  Francisco,  but  without  result;  his  traveling 
expenses  however  increased  his  loss  to  360  dollars.  It 
was  on  his  return  from  here  that  he  called  on  me.  The 
yiooY  fellow  felt  down  hearted,  and  nobody  can  blame  him 
for  it;  the  loss  is  really  heavy. 

Grunhagen  has  at  last  succeeded  in  finding  employ- 
ment in  Santa  Cruz,  a  small  place  a  few  miles  from  Mon- 
terey. He  is  clerking  tliei'e  in  a  marketshop,  gets  50  dol- 
lars a  month  and  board,  and  sells  butter,  carrots,  onions, 
ham,  etc. 

Emil  Boettcher  about  a  week  ago  went  to  Sonoma,  on 
the  other  side  of  the  bay.  His  position  there  is  not  very 
brilliant. 

I  myself  shall  return  to  the  mines  as  soon  as  possible. 

Business  is  exceedingly  dull  here.  For  weeks  thou- 
sands have  been  looking  for  employment,  and  nobody  can 
give  it  to  them.  In  addition  to  these,  eveiy  incoming 
vessel  brings  more  immigrants.  How  it  is  going  to  end- 
God  only  knows. 

I  hope  you  will  not  take  offense,  because  this  letter  is 


IN  THE  MINING  DISTRICT  257 

so  badly  soiled.  When  paper  is  lying  around  loose  in  a 
miner's  tent  for  about  8  weeks,  it  can  not  well  be  in  any 
other  condition.  I  hope  you  will  be  able  to  decipher  what 
I  have  written. 

To  you  all  (and  to  myself),  I  wish  the  best  of  health, 
and  remain  with  much  love  Your 

FRANK  LECOUVEEUR. 

P.  S.— The  last  mail  did  not  bring  me  any  letters  from 
you.  The  next  steamer,  the  Northern  (Light?)  from 
Acapulco  will  be  due  here  within  a  few  days.  I  wonder 
if  she  will  bring  anything  for  me?*  F.  L. 


*Here  ends  Dr,  Wolhveber's  translation. 


17 


LETTER  NO.  IX. 


San  Francisco,  Cal.,  January  13th,  1853. 

My  Beloved  Ones— My  somewhat  sorrowful  letter  No. 
17,*  finished  in  San  Francisco  towards  the  end  of  last 
October,  must  have  reached  you  some  time  ago,  and  I 
have  no  doubt,  you  have  ever  since  longed  for  another 
letter  from  me  and  for  news  about  my  health. 

I  have  experienced  hard  times  since  then.  Under  the 
impression  that  I  had  completely  recovered  my  health, 
and  thinking  that  the  unhealthy  season  must  have  ended 
long  ago  at  Long  Bar,  I  started  on  November  4th  to  re- 
turn thither,  and  immediately  upon  my  amval  went  to 
work  again.  My  dream  was  of  short  duration,  three  days 
afterwards  the  fever  returned,  and  ever  since— for  fully 
two  months— it  has  been  racking  me  day  and  night.  As 
it  happened  the  rainy  season  set  in  at  the  same  time— 
storms  and  floods— and  so  dispensed  me  from  telling 
you  what  I  suffered  during  that  time.  Day  after  day 
the  rain  came  pouring  down  in  torrents,  accompanied  by 
the  howling  of  the  storm.  The  canvas-roof  of  my  tent 
could  not  withstand  it  any  longer;  the  water  would  soak 
through,  and  so  I  lay— shaking  in  a  cold  chill,  in  vain 
trying  to  get  wann— in  a  bunk  and  under  blankets,  both 
wet  through  and  through  by  rainwater  constantly  drip- 
ping in.  In  the  beginning  I  tried  yet— exerting  all  my 
strength— to  make  my  board;  but  I  very  soon  became  so 
weak  that  I  had  to  give  that  up,  and  shortly  after,  I  was 
often  not  even  able  to  prepare  myself  something  to  eat. 
In  regard  to  this,  I  had  often  to  depend  on  the  kindness 
of  my  neighbors  who  now  and  then  would  let  me  have 


*The  author's  number  inckides  more  private  correspondence.- 
Transl. 

258 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  CALIFORNIA  259 

some  soup,  or  would  make  some  tea  or  coffee  for  me.  In 
this  way  1  led  the  most  miserable  existence  imaginable, 
until  at  last— seeing  no  prospect  of  getting  better  there, 
but  on  the  contrary,  feeling  that  I  was  getting  weaker 
and  worse  every  day— I  resolved  to  go  again  to  San 
Francisco,  which  I  did  shortly  before  Christmas,  after 
having  sold  my  tools  and  everything  I  could  convert  into 
cash. 

You  can  imagine  in  what  a  miserable,  wretched  condi- 
tion I  arrived  here,  but  the  complete  mental  and  physical 
rest,  living  as  I  do  in  a  dry,  sunny  room— I  room  with 
Boettcher— and  sleeping  on  a  dry  mattress,  have  done 
wonders  for  me,  the  fever  left  me  more  than  a  week  ago, 
and  I  feel  that  I  am  rapidly  regaining  strength,  so  that 
I  begin  to  hope  that  this  terrible  sickness,  which  has  kept 
me  down  for  fully  four  months,  is  about  to  leave  me. 

I  call  this  malarial  fever  a  terrible  sickness,  and  so  it 
is.  In  the  fullest  meaning  of  the  word;  it  manifests  itself 
in  different  ways,  but  is  always  periodical;  it  returns  at 
regular  intervals,  either  daily  or  every  second  or  third 
day.  During  these  intervals  the  patient  may  either  feel 
quite  well  and  may  eat  and  drink  with  a  good  appetite; 
or  he  may  have  a  constant  chilly  sensation,  and  be  at  the 
same  time  unable  to  go  to  sleep,  and  may  feel  a  repug- 
nance to  the  taking  of  nourishment,  as  was  the  case  with 
me.  The  chill  which  lasts  at  times  from  6  to  8  hours,  is 
followed  by  a  high  fever,  during  which  the  patient  be- 
comes delirious  and  sees  himself  surrounded  by  the  most 
horrid  creations  of  a  sickly  fancy.  But  this  is  not  all; 
during  the  same  time  he  suffers  an  agony  of  pain  in  the 
chest,  stomach  and  intestines;  he  feels  as  if  he  would 
suffocate  the  very  next  minute.  The  worst,  however,  is 
the  complete  apathy  into  which  the  sufferer  sinks.  It 
is  as  if  there  were  forever  an  end  to  every  mental  exer- 
tion. He  sees  his  future  black,  and  while  in  other  dis- 
eases hope  sustains  the  sufferer,  it  is  just  the  reverse 
with  one  stricken  by  this  fever:  hope  abandons  him  at 
once  and  as  if  forever.  It  is  a  most  horrible  condition  to 
be  in,  and  it  is  impossible  to  describe  it. 


260  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

But  what  is  gone  let  it  be  buried  with  the  past.  A  new 
year  has  come  upon  the  river  of  time;  may  it  bring  me 
better  luck,— may  it  bring  me  nearer  the  goal  than  the 
past  year  has  done.  Yet,  there  is  much  I  have  to  be 
thankful  for;  if  during  the  last  year  I  had  to  suffer  a 
great  deal,  I  have  also  learned  a  great  deal.  ''Habeat 
sibi!'^— Retired,  quiet  and  contented  as  you  live,— I  do 
not  know  if  I  could  wish  you  anything  better,  than  that 
the  new  year  may  not  bring  you  any  changes,  my  beloved 
ones!  The  storms  which  constantly  spring  up  around 
me,  will  not  touch  you.  To  Marie  only  will  I  wish  that 
she  may  soon  regain  her  wonted  health. 

Just  as  you  received  my  letter  of  April  5th  last  year, 
on  my  birthday,  so  did  I  receive  your  letter  No.  16— of 
August  6th  on  December  16th,  my  beloved  mother's 
birthday.    That  was  a  satisfaction ! 

I  am  glad  to  see  that  the  specimens  of  leafgold,  which 
I  sent  you  in  my  letter  No.  15  of  May  6th-15tli  have 
reached  you  in  safety.  I  hardly  had  expected  it.  To  be 
sure,  the  gold  found  here  differs  very  much  in  color;  but 
you  never  find  gold  differing  in  color  in  the  same  locality; 
and  especially  does  this  hold  good  about  the  gold  washed 
out  of  rivers.  The  gold  found  at  Long  Bar,  for  instance, 
as  it  is  washed  out  of  the  river,  looks  beautifully  bright 
and  reddish.  After  a  while  it  turns  to  a  pale  yellow  and 
then  it  takes  a  greenish  hue;  but  since  the  miners  are  in 
the  habit  of  carrying  it  on  their  persons,  the  perspiration 
may  have  something  to  do  with  that, 

I  did  not  see  anything  at  which  to  laugh,  my  dear 
father,  about  the  suggestions  you  make  in  regard  to 
mining  operations  here;  the  improvements  you  suggest 
have  in  part  already  been  made,— as  for  instance,  the 
repeated  utilizing  of  the  same  water  by  running  the  tail- 
ings into  a  hole.  The  system  however,  which  you  sug- 
gest, would  not  only  be  impracticable  in  moat  cases,  but 
—considering  the  small  quantity  of  water  used  in  wash- 
ing with  a  rocker, — too  expensive.  Lumber  is  worth  25 
cents  per  foot  (in  some  localities  50  cents  and  more);  so 
that  a  hundred  feet  of  a  flume  such  as  you  suggest,  would 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  CALIFORNIA  261 

cost  about  fifty  dollars.  To  bring  the  water  to  a  Long 
Tom  we  generally  use  a  hose,  three  inches  wide  and  made 
of  canvas.  To  dry  the  ground  before  washing  it,  as  you 
suggest,  would  not  be  an  advantage;  why  should  we  dry 
it  and  then  wet  it  again  ?  You  have  no  idea  how  difficult 
it  is  to  wash  the  gold  out  of  ground  which  is  dry;  I  can 
wash  three  or  four  buckets  of  moist  earth  in  the  same 
time  and  with  the  same  quantity  of  water,  that  it  takes 
me  to  wash  one  bucket  of  dry  earth. 

So  far  as  game  is  concerned,  you  can  imagine  that  near 
cities  like  Marysville,  with  2,500  inhabitants,  or  Sacra- 
mento with  15,000  inhabitants,  or  in  mining  districts 
where  there  are  numerous  settlements,  it  has  pretty 
nearly  disappeared.  Game  birds  are,  however,  yet  to  be 
found  in  large  numbers  in  the  Sacramento  valley.  The 
buffalo  has  never  been  indigenous  in  California,  but  is 
found  in  endless  numbers  on  the  other  side  of  the  Sierra 
Nevada. 

As  for  the  drying  of  meat  in  the  open  air,  what  you 
were  told  about  that  is  only  partly  true.  During  the  hot 
summer  months,  meat  decays  here  as  quickly  as  it  does 
elsewhere;  but  strange  to  say— during  the  rainy  season 
one  can  in  some  parts  of  the  country,  preserve  meat  an 
unusually  long  time,  by  hanging  it  up  in  the  open  air? 
ultimately  however  it  will  spoil. 

In  consequence  of  reports  received  by  returning 
miners,  I  have  for  the  present  given  up  all  idea  aboul 
going  to  Oregon. 

I  have  repeatedly  mentioned  my  going  by  steamer  to 
and  from  Marysville,  but  have  never  given  you  a  descrip- 
tion of  such  a  trip.    Let  me  now  do  so. 

The  style  of  the  entire  interior  arrangement  of  the 
American  river  steamers  is  so  entirely  different  from 
what  you  are  accustomed  to  see  in  Europe,  that  I  will  first 
give  you  a  description  of  one  of  them,  ere  I  proceed  fur- 
ther. The  hull  of  the  vessel  is  something  like  an  egg- 
shaped  flat-boat,  whose  deck  however  extends  in  all  di- 
rections beyond  its  sides,  thereby  gaining  a  great  deal  of 
-room;  on  this  deck  stands  a  two-storv  structure— a  house. 


262  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

covering  the  deck  from  one  side  to  the  other  and  almost 
from  end  to  end,  leaving  only  a  small  portion  of  the  deck 
forward,  open,  and  uncovered.  The  lower  part  of  this 
structure  which  usually  is  open  all  around,  or  at  the  most 
only  partly  covered  in,  is  taken  up  by  the  machinery,— 
the  boilers  are  in  the  forward  part  of  the  vessel,  entirely 
uncovered— and  is  used  for  freight;  the  second  or  upper 
story  of  this  building  however  contains  usually,  an  ele- 
gant cabin,  so  constructed,  that  only  a  sort  of  veranda 
extends  all  around  it,  to  be  used  as  a  promenade  in  fair 
weather.  On  the  forward  part  of  the  upper  deck,  or  in 
most  cases  on  top  of  it— thus  fonning  a  third  stoiy — 
is  the  wheelhouse.  With  small  variations  nearly  all 
American  river  steamers,  from  the  largest  to  the  small- 
est, have  the  same,  or  very  similar  construction,  the  ap- 
propriateness of  which  is  evident,  since  it  enables  them 
to  carry  an  incredibly  large  number  of  passengers. 

Between  here  and  Stockton  on  the  San  Joaquin  river, 
the  central  place  for  the  Southern  mines,  there  run  ten 
or  twelve  large  high  pressure  steamers,  making  regular 
trips;  between  here  and  Sacramento  there  are  probably 
no  less  than  fifteen  of  them ;  not  counting  those  which  go 
direct  to  Marysville.  How  does  that  compare  with 
Konigsberg,  which  after  preliminaries  extending  through 
several  years,  has  succeeded  in  establishing  communica- 
tion with  Stettin  by  means  of  two  old,  almost  un- 
serviceable steamships?  All  these  steamers  here  have 
plenty  to  do,  especially  in  carrying  passengers,  and  there 
is  nothing  more  interesting  than  a  trip  on  one  of  them — 
some  of  them  being  100  feet  long  with  a  60-foot  wide 
deck — to  Sacramento  for  instance.  This  trip  occupies 
generally  from  13  to  14  hours,  the  fare  being  5  dollars 
on  deck  and  10  dollars  in  the  cabin.  Nowhere  has  one  a 
better  opportunity  to  notice  the  cosmopolitan  character 
of  the  population  here,  than  on  board  of  one  of  these 
steamers,  where  he  finds  Americans,  Germans,  French- 
men, Mexicans,  Chilians,  Spaniards,  Dutch,  English, 
Danes,  Swedes  and  Norwegians,  Miilattoes,  Negroes  and 
Chinamen, — all   crowded    together   on   the    same   deck. 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  CALIFORNIA  2G3 

Everyone  chatters  in  his  own  tongue, — the  French,  as 
usual,  being  the  loudest  and  the  most  noisy;  and  every- 
one does  as  he  is  in  the  habit  of  doing  at  home  and  among 
people  of  his  own  nationality.  You  can  not  imagine  what 
a  motley  crowd  it  is,  nor  how  interesting  it  is  to  a  quiet 
observer,  to  note  their  doings.  One  might  think  himself 
to  be  in  a  theater  with  several  hundred  actors  from  all 
parts  of  the  world  before  him.  There  being  hardly  any 
distinction  between  classes  in  America,  and  absolutely 
none  here  in  California,  most  everybody  travels  as  a  deck 
passenger,  and  the  cabins  are  used  only  by  ladies,  or 
persons  who  will  pay  for  comfort.  Aside  from  what  we 
see  on  board  the  steamer,  the  trip  offers  us  but  very  little 
of  interest.  The  surrounding  country  is  not  interesting. 
The  banks  of  the  river  are  low,  the  country  is  flat  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach.  Only  here  and  there  we  note  natural 
hedges  or  some  stunted  willows;  seldom  groups  of  trees 
or  grazing  cattle;  at  times  we  pass  a  loghouse  or  shanty 
standing  high  on  piles :  that  is  all.  The  most  interesting 
part  of  the  trip  is  the  passage  through  the  slough.  This 
slough  is  one  of  the  many  outlets  of  the  Sacramento  river 
into  Suisun  Bay;  it  is  the  narrowest,  but,  on  account  of 
its  depth  of  water,  the  only  navigable  outlet.  It  is  about 
20  miles  long  and  the  banks  are  just  above  the  water 
level ;  but  they  are  virgin  soil,  covered  with  the  most  lux- 
urious vegetation,  including  all  sorts  of  vegetable 
growths,  from  the  primeval  oak  down  to  the  most  intri- 
cate masses  of  bush  and  vines  that  I  have  ever  seen. 

Before  I  close  my  remarks  about  steamboats,  I  must 
mention  what  I  believe  to  be  an  English  scheme  but 
which  has  entered  so  much  into  the  very  life  here  that 
we  can  not  exist  without  it.  I  mean  the  ''opposition"— 
the  mutual  efforts  of  two  competitors  in  the  same  line 
of  business  to  ruin  one  another,  by  alternately  lowering 
the  prices.  It  is  especially  among  the  owners  of  steam- 
boats where  the  procedure  is  in  vogue,  and  at  times  it  is 
carried  to  most  ridiculous  extremes.  It  was  only  the 
other  day  that  I  came  here  from  Sacramento  for  one  dol- 
lar; and  a  few  weeks  ago  a  new  company  advertised  that 


264    EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE' 

they  would  not  only  carry  passengers  from  here  to  Sac- 
ramento free  of  charge,  but  that  they  would  give  them 
their  supper  besides.  And  so  they  did  for  three  or  four 
(Jays,— when  they  came  to  an  understanding  with  the  old 
established  companies,  and  since  then  they  charge  uni- 
form prices. 

I  do  not  know  if  your  papers  informed  you  about  the 
terrible  fire  which  on  November  2nd  and  3rd  laid  in  ashes 
the  whole  city  of  Sacramento— about  2,500  buildings,  and 
rendeied  about  twelve  or  thirteen  thousand  people  home- 
less. You  may  perhaps  remember  that  I  was  at  that  time 
here  in  San  Francisco;  but  on  November  4th  I  took  the 
steamer  to  return  to  Long  Bar.  As  it  happened,  this 
steamer— the  ''Confidence"— -was  the  first  boat  to  leave 
here  after  the  fire,  and  you  can  form  no  idea,  how  she 
was  loaded  down  with  freight.  Anything  and  everything 
that  one  might  want  or  not  want,  was  on  board.  Every 
little  bit  of  space,  even  between  and  below  the  boilers, 
and  even  part  of  the  cabin,  was  used  to  store  away  all 
sorts  of  provisions  in  all  sorts  of  packages,  household 
goods,  furniture,  building  material  and  everything  else 
conceivable;  and  between  and  up  and  down  these  moun- 
tains of  boxes  and  barrels  and  bags,  pushed  and  climbed, 
like  the  mules  in  the  Sierra  Nevada,  the  most  heteroge- 
nous crowd— about  900  of  them— which  has  ever  been  on 
board  of  a  steamer,  even  a  California  steamer.  I  saw  a 
pile  of  mattresses  stowed  away  between  the  smoke-stacks, 
reaching  about  half  way  up  to  the  ceiling  and  selected 
them  as  a  "throne"  for  myself;  but  straightway  I  came 
in  conflict  with  the  owner,  who  would  not  allow  me  to  re- 
main there.  Repeated  efforts  which  he  made  to  pull  me 
down  miscarried,  until  I  was  careless  enough  to  bring 
one  of  my  feet  within  his  reach,  when  he  immediately 
took  the  opportunity,  i.  e.  the  foot,  and  began  to  pull 
with  all  his  might,  but  as  I  resisted  as  hard  as  I  could 
he  almost  pulled  off  my  boot.  At  last,  perhaps,  moved 
by  my  obstinacy,  he  desisted  in  his  attempt  "to  drag  the 
lofty  into  the  dust,"  and  we  became  afterwards  such 
good  friends,  that  he  even  divided  his  cigar  supply  with 
roe. 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  CALIFORNIA  265 

It  was  5  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  when  we  cast  off  from 
the  California  street  wharf,  and  it  had  become  pitch- 
dark  when  we  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  slough  (men- 
tioned before).  Kere  we  had  the  misfortune  to  run  into 
a  schooner  lying  there  at  anchor;  and,  as  bad  luck  would 
have  it,  we  shoved  her  on  the  mud  in  such  an  unfortunate 
waj^  as  to  completely  block  the  passage.  Repeated  at- 
tempts on  our  part  to  get  her  off  again,  failed  in  the 
blinding  darkness  and  on  account  of  the  heavy  load  we 
had  on  board,  there  was  nothing  left  for  us  to  do  but  to 
await  daylight.  I  made  the  best  of  it  by  making  myself 
as  comfortable  as  I  could  on  my  pile  of  mattresses.  I 
wrapped  myself  in  my  blankets  and  tried  to  get  some 
sleep;  but  the  night  being  very  cold,  I  succeeded  only 
partially. 

With  the  break  of  day  we  began  again  to  pull  away 
at  our  schooner  so  as  to  open  a  passage  for  ourselves,  but 
with  no  better  result  than  on  the  previous  evening. 
Things  began  to  look  dark,  as  we  had  now  to  await  the 
arrival  of  other  steamers.  Fortune  favored  us  finally;  at 
8  o'clock  the  ''Antelope"  hove  in  sight  and  shortly  after- 
wards the  "Wilson  G.  Hunt."  By  their  united  efforts, 
the  three  steamers  at  last  succeeded  at  about  9  o'clock  in 
floating  the  schooner  again,  and  by  that  time  the  steamer 
"Comanche"  and  the  propeller  "Archimedes"  had  also 
joined  us. 

We  thus  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  whole  fleet 
around  us;  and  accompanied  by  this  noble  convoy  of  four 
other  steamers  we  arrived  at  Sacramento  at  2  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon— or  rather  at  the  place  where  Sacramento 
City  used  to  be  before  the  big  fire. 

A  scene  of  the  wildest  desolation  met  our  eyes.  Of  a 
great  many  buildings  not  even  any  ruins  were  left, — 
not  even  any  cinders!  The  terrible  heat  caused  by  so 
many  buildings  burning  at  once— and  some  of  them  large 
buildings  (one— for  instance— being  a  hotel  four  stories 
high)  reduced  the  ashes  of  everything  combustible  to  the 
finest  powder,  and  this  was  at  once  scattered  by  the  wind. 
A\Tiere  the  city  had  stood  there  was  now  nothing  befox'e 


266         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

us  but  a  wide  expanse  of  blackened  soil,  with  here  and 
there  the  blackened  walls  of  a  burned  out  brick  building, 
ready  to  fall  at  any  moment,  and  from  some  of  these 
smoke  and  even  flames  would  still  at  times  shoot  up.  In 
the  fullest  meaning  of  the  word,  the  whole  city  was  in 
ashes,  because  only  one  side  of  one  single  street  had 
partly  escaped  destruction  by  a  change  in  the  wind,  and 
if  I  were  to  say  that  there  were  forty  houses  standing, 
my  estimate  might  be  too  high. 

It  being  2  o'clock  p.  m.  when  we  arrived  at  Sacra- 
mento, and  the  boat  for  Marysville  having  left  long  be- 
fore that  time,  I  was  compelled  to  wait  here  until  the 
next  day,  much  against  my  will.  I  was  hungry  as  a  wolf 
and  for  a  wretched  bit  of  a  beefsteak  with  a  few  i)otatoes 
and  a  cup  of  black  coffee— just  enough  to  sharpen  my 
appetite— I  had  to  pay  two  dollars. 

The  night  I  had  to  pass  in  the  open  air  like  thousands 
of  others  who  had  lost  their  house  and  home;  but  I  took 
advantage  of  the  situation :  in  the  ruins  of  a  brick  build- 
ing I  found  a  corner,  where,  protected  against  the  wind, 
I  slept  on  the  warm  ashes  as  in  paradise! 

It  was  daylight  when  I  awoke;  but  when  I  opened  my 
eyes  I  thought  I  was  still  dreaming.  "WTiere  I  had  seen 
the  angry  flames  shooting  up  on  the  evening  before,  there 
stood  now  (the  sun  had  not  risen  yet),  rows  of  tents  and 
shanties,  which  had  been  constructed  during  the  night 
by  the  light  of  lanterns;  and  when  at  noon  I  took  the  boat 
for  Marysville,  long  continuous  rows  of  these  tents  and 
frame  houses  formed  well-defined  streets,— a  temporaiy 
city  had  sprung  up.  Where  in  the  world  can  you  see 
anything  like  this,  except  in  America?  In  any  other 
part  of  the  world  a  city  like  this,  after  such  a  catastrophe 
—being  wiped  off  the  ground  as  this  city  has  been— 
would  have  been  deserted  by  the  inhabitants,  certainly  by 
most  of  them;  and  years  afterwards  one  might  yet  have 
seen  the  traces  of  the  disaster  while  here  they  will  have 
completely  disappeared  within  a  few  months. 

San  Francisco  too  has  changed  wonderfully  in  this  one 
year  since  I  first  saw  it;  one  can  hardly  believe  his  own 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  CALIFORNIA  267 

eyes.  Not  only  have  frame  and  sheet-iron  buildings  been 
torn  down  and  replaced  by  magnificent  brick  buildings, 
and  new  ones  been  added;  but  whole  streets  have  been 
opened  and  built  up;  and  where  as  late  as  last  January 
large  ships  have  discharged  or  taken  in  cargo,  there  you 
may  see  to-day  buildings  two  and  three  stories  high  on 
solid  foundations;  and  on  the  very  spot  where  we  pas- 
sengers of  the  ''Aurora"  managed  to  land  by  climbing 
the  narrow  ladder  on  the  California  wharf— one  may  now 
take  his  cup  of  chocolate  in  a  beautifully  furnished  estab- 
lishment and  may  indulge  in  finest  confectionery.  Streets, 
where  we  had  formerly  to  climb  up  or  down  like  a  goat, 
are  now  graded,— and  steadily  is  that  steam-engine  at 
work,  which  I  have  described  to  you  in  a  fonner  letter, 
in  leveling  down  hills  and  in  filling  in  that  part  of  the 
bay,  over  which  the  city  will  extend. 

Every  day  shows  new  improvements,  and  the  varie- 
gated styles  and  the  different  colors  of  the  material  used 
in  building,  produce  an  effect  at  once  odd  and  attractive, 
such  as  one  may  not  find  in  any  other  city.  A  veritable 
fairy-land  panorama  unfolds  itself  before  one's  eyes,  if, 
on  a  clear,  bright  day  he  ascends  one  of  those  hills  which 
surround  the  city  in  a  semi-circle.  They  are  already  so 
densely  covered  with  cottages  and  villas  that  they  may  be 
considered  as  forming  part  of  the  city.  The  observer 
standing  upon  one  of  those  eminences  can  view  the  great 
mass  of  buildings  of  the  western  metropolis  at  his  feet. 
The  wide  streets  run  straight  as  a  ray  of  light,  and  the 
busy  throng  of  humanity  that  flows  through  them  from 
early  mom  till  late  at  night,  represents  all  nationalities 
on  earth,  and  is  a  sight  worth  seeing.  A  little  beyond, 
near  the  wharves,  the  throng  seems  even  to  increase. 
Here  hundreds  of  the  largest  and  most  magnificent  ships 
of  the  world  are  either  at  the  wharves,  unloading  or  tak- 
ing in  cargo,  while  those  which  are  not  in  dock  for  re- 
pairs of  damages  suffered  during  a  long  voyage  upon  the 
more  or  less  tempestuous  sea,  are  to  be  seen  in  the  bay, 
majestically  resting  at  anchor.  And  this  beautiful  bay! 
Its  blue  waters  are  glistening  in  the  bright  sunshine  and, 


268    EAST  PRUSSL\  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

being  dotted  with  lovely  islands,  are  reflecting  their 
emerald  in  the  crystal  flood;  and  innumerable  small 
boats,  spread  their  white  wings  to  the  breeze.  Steamers 
are  passing  to-and-fro,  and  everj^  now  and  then  a  large 
clipper  ship  glides  by,  her  tall,  graceful  masts  swaying 
under  a  cloud  of  canvas,  and  looming  up  like  a  frigate 
among  the  smaller  craft!  The  back-ground  of  this  pic- 
turesque panorama  is  formed  by  the  Eastern  shore  of  the 
bay,  with  its  long  chain  of  hills,  the  beauty  of  which  is 
enhanced  by  the  constantly  changing  of  light  and 
shadow,  as  the  sun  rises,  sets  or  hides  himself  tempo- 
rarily behind  the  clouds,  thus  presenting  a  picture  of  in- 
describable beauty.  Neither  painter  nor  poet  can  do  it 
justice;  one  must  see  it  with  his  own  eyes,  and  feel  with 
his  own  heart,  the  power  of  this  grand  picture— at  once 
majestic  and  sweet— as  Mother  Nature  unfolds  it  before 
one's  delighted  senses. 

The  place  however,  which  I  prefer  to  all  others  and 
which  I  visit  oftenest,  is— I  am  fully  aware  that  you 
guess  it — the  harbor.  I  find  that  this  feeling  of  admira- 
tion is  shared  even  by  those  who  do  not  take  as  much 
interest  in  ship-building  and  maritime  affairs  as  I  do; 
the  harbor  attracts  everybody.  No  other  port  in  the 
world  can  show  such  an  accumulation  of  grace  and 
beauty,  allied  to  the  most  imposing  dimensions  in  mari- 
time architecture.  In  one  of  my  fornaer  letters,  I  have 
already  spoken  about  American  clippers,  and  at  that 
time,  I  thought  it  next  to  an  impossibility  to  improve  in 
any  way  on  what  I  had  seen  then.  How  I  mistook  Amer- 
ican possibilities,  at  least,  when  it  comes  to  ship-building. 
Nearly  every  new  clipper  that  enters  this  port,  surpasses 
those  which  have  come  before  in  simple  elegance  as  well 
as  beauty  and  practicability.  The  ''Winged  Racer'* 
lately  arrived  from  New  York  is  a  good  specimen  of 
these  giants.  Length  of  keel,  one  hundred  and  ninety 
feet ;  length  over  all :  two  hundred  and  thirty-five ;  width 
of  beam:  forty-eight;  main  yard:  ninety-eight,  drawing 
twenty-eight  feet  of  water  when  loaded.  Though  of  such 
uncommon  dimensions  every  line  of  her  body  is  clean  and 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  CALIFORNIA  S69 

beautiful,  a  masterpiece,  which  looks  as  if  it  had  been 
cut  out  of  one  solid  block  of  wood.  On  the  stern  under- 
neath the  bow-sprit,  she  carries  a  finely  carved  winged 
horse,  gilt  and  much  above  life-size;  this  and  a  gilt- 
moulding,  about  three  inches  wide,  running  all  around 
the  ship,  are  her  only  ornaments;  beyond  these,  she  is 
painted  black.  To  show  you  how  remarkably  strong 
these  vessels  are,  I  shall  relate  an  incident  which  I  should 
not  have  believed  from  hearsay,  but  which  I  now  vouch 
for,  having  been  an  eye-witness  to  the  fact. 

As  the  ''Clara  Malloiy,"  a  Baltimore  clipper  of  about 
equal  size  and  just  as  handsome  a  ship  as  the  ''Winged 
Eacer,"  came  into  port  a  few  days  ago,  the  breeze  began 
to  decline  and,  as  the  tide  was  running  heavily  against 
her,  she  was  obliged  to  engage  the  steamer  "Goliath"  to 
take  her  in  tow,  and  bring  her  up  to  the  wharf.  Being 
loaded  rather  deep,  the  "Goliath"  had  to  make  supreme 
efforts  to  bring  her  near  Long  Wharf,  and  just  at  the 
moment,  when  she  was  turning  into  the  slip,  the  tow-line 
broke  and  the  "Clara  Mallory"  fell  squarely  into  the 
trough  of  the  sea  and  began  to  drift  with  increasing 
rapidity.  She  immediately  let  go  both  bow-anchors,  but 
these  did  not  take  hold  at  once  and  it  thus  could  not  be 
prevented  that  she  swept  with  her  long  jib-boom  over 
the  deck  of  the  three-masted  screw-steamer  "Fremont;" 
a  steamer  somewhat  larger  than  the  Konigsberg  "Cole- 
raine,"  then  at  anchor.  Any  ordinary  ship  would  have 
lost  her  jib-boom  in  striking  against  the  mast  of  a  vessel 
riding  at  anchor  and  would  then  have  cleared,  but  the 
"Clara  Mallory"  did  just  the  reverse.  With  the  very 
end  of  her  jib-boom,  she  first  broke  the  "Fremont's  fore- 
mast, then  the  main-mast,  and  finally  knocked  the  chim- 
ney overboard,  without  sustaining  even  the  smallest 
damage  herself.  It  seems  incredible,  but  as  I  mentioned 
before,  I  saw  it  with  my  own  eyes. 

Perhaps  the  most  gigantic,  though  not  the  finest  of  all 
ships  in  this  port  at  the  present  time,  is  the  screw- 
steamer  "Samuel  S.  Lewis"  lately  arrived  from  New 
York  and  intended  for  the  Panama  line.    She  is  of  two 


270  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

thousand  nine  hundred  tons  capacity.  The  width  of  her 
upper  deck  is  fifty  feet;  her  length,  two  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  or  twenty  feet  more  than  the  height  of  the 
tower  of  the  ''castle"  at  Konigsberg.  What  would  the 
good  citizens  of  Konigsberg  say,  if  one  fine  morning  there 
should  enter  the  river  Pregel  such  a  monster  vessel  as 
the  *' Samuel  S.  Lewis,"  with  the  "Winged  Racer"  in 
tow? 

Tliough  San  Francisco  is  an  entirely  new  city,  steam 
navigation  has  already  been  developed  to  such  a  degree, 
as  our  slowly-progressing  merchants  at  home  would 
hardly  consider  possible.  Not  only  are  we  connected  by 
steamers  with  all  places  in  the  interior  where  a  connec- 
tion by  water  is  possible  and  advisable,  but  steamers  run 
to  the  North  and  South  from  here  along  the  whole  coast, 
even  to  the  smallest  ports.  The  largest,  the  fastest  and 
the  finest  steamers  however,  are  those  connecting  us  with 
Panama  and  with  San  Juan  del  Sur,  the  crossings  of  the 
Isthmus.  Three,  four  or  five  of  them  are  dispatched  on 
the  first  and  on  the  fifteenth  day  of  every  month  by  the 
different  companies.  No  less  than  five  of  these  magnifi- 
cent steam-ships  are  advertised  to  sail  from  here  on  the 
fifteenth  instant  for  the  two  ports  named.  These  steam- 
ers are:  The  ''Winfield  Scott,"  carrying  two  thousand 
one  hundred  tons;  the  "Samuel  S.  Lewis,"  two  thousand 
nine  hundred ;  the  ' '  New  Orleans, ' '  sixteen  hundred ;  the 
"Independence,"  fifteen  hundred;  lastly,  the  "Golden 
Gate,"  two  thousand  five  hundred  tons  and  one  thousand 
horse-power;  and  the  latter  steamer,  according  to  the 
unanimous  opinion  of  all  the  newspapers— the  finest  ves- 
sel afloat  at  the  present  time.  What  do  you  say  about 
such  a,  traffic  at  a  place,  where  four  years  ago  there  stood 
but  a  few  tents  and  hovels'?  Is  it  not  a  miracle  almost 
as  great  as  any  mentioned  in  history?  ''Help  yourself 
and  God  ivill  help  you,"  comes  true  here  as  well  as  else- 
where. 

But,  methinks,  I  have  really  dwelt  long  enough  in  and 
about  the  harbor,  but  you  all  know  my  hobby  and  will 
pardon  my  weakness. 


niPRESSIOXS  OF  CALIFORXIA  271 

It  just  strikes  me  that  you  perhaps  have  no  correct  idea 
about  what  is  meant  by  the  descriptive  phrase,  "clipper- 
built/-  I  left  three  small  models  at  home,  two  not  fin- 
ished, one,  a  side-wheel  steamer,  the  other  a  screw- 
steamer,  the  latter,  though  hardly  sharp  enough,  resem- 
bles a  "clipper." 

January  24th,  1853. 

Do  not  be  astonished  if  my  words  flow  more  glibly  and 
manifest  a  more  cheerful  spirit  than  those,  which  I  ad- 
dressed to  you  on  the  thirteenth  of  this  month.  The 
cause  of  it  is  easily  explained.  I  feel  myself  gaining  in 
strength  from  day  to  day  and  I  have  everj^  reason  to 
believe,  that  I  shall  soon  enjoy  perfect  health;  another 
star  has  arisen  on  my  present  horizon :  prospect  of  steady 
employment,  which  assures  a  steady  income;  and,  last 
but  not  least,  I  received  the  day  before  yesterday  by  the 
mail  steamer  "Tennessee"  your  letter  of  November  the 
sixth  of  last  year.    Of  this  I  am  anxious  to  speak  first. 

I  actually  did  read  your  underlined  note*  first,  dear 
father,  but  with  such  trepidation,  that  its  first  perusal 
left  me  completely  bewildered.  The  second  reading  met 
with  better  success. 

As  you  had  supposed,  I  was  anxious  to  see  first  who 
of  my  beloved  ones  had  been  kind  to  me  this  time.  I 
saw,  that  the  dear  hand  of  my  mother  had  rested  on  the 
paper;  then  I  perceived  Alexandina's  cheerful  lines  and 
—that  was  all!  Why  not  a  line  from  my  dear  and  only 
sister  Marie  ?  A  dark,  a  terrible  supposition  shot  through 
my  brain  and  then  my  heart  ceased  to  beat !    No  one  will 


*The  underlined  note  here  referred  to,  contained  the  unwel- 
come intelligence  that  his  only  sister,  Marie,  was  dangerously  ill 
and  unable  to  write  to  her  brother,  as  had  been  her  usual  custom ; 
there  being  however  but  one  mail  a  month,  the  writers  thought 
it  best  to  forward  their  own  letters.  As  he  would  naturally  have 
missed  his  sister's  handwriting  at  the  opening  of  his  mail,  they 
thought  of  forestalling  a  prolonged  anxiety  by  notifying  him  at 
once  of  said  news.  The  fact  had  been  minimized,  but  his  sensi- 
tive nature  divined  the  seriousness  of  his  sister's  illness,  for  never 
did  a  brother  love  his  sister  more  tenderlv. — Transl. 


372  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

blame  me,  if  it  took  quite  a  few  moments  before  I  was 
able  to  regain  my  eqnilibrinm. 

I  can  very  well  imagine  how  the  foreign  newspapers 
have  exaggerated  the  state  of  cholera  on  this  coast  but 
let  me  assure  j^ou  that  it  was  not  half  as  bad  as  reported. 
As  you  are  aware,  I  was  at  the  time  at  Long  Bar,  which 
was  one  of  the  places  that  suffered  the  most. 

As  for  the  assembling  of  ten  thousand  Indians,  I  as- 
sure you  that  the  story  is  a  lie  from  beginning  to  end. 
Some  correspondent  with  an  abundance  of  nei^ve  and 
imagination,  has  once  more  succeeded  in  forcing  upon 
your  press,  news,  which  happens  not  to  be  news  at  all. 
But  I  wish  we  could  find  such  a  large  number  of  red- 
skins together  in  one  lump,  so  as  to  have  an  opportunity 
for  a  good  cleaning  up  among  those  thievish  vagabonds. 
The  worst  and  most  blood-thirsty  of  these  tribes  are  the 
Blackfoot  Indians,  the  Shoshones,  the  Arrapahoes,  the 
Snake  Indians  and  kindred  tribes,  which  are  fortunately 
on  the  other  side  of  the  Sierra  Nevada;  and  the  Shasta 
Indians  have  too  few  warriors  to  become  dangerous, 
though  they  gladly  embrace  every  opportunity  for  doing 
mischief.  As  for  the  other  Indians  in  California,  they 
are,  as  I  said,  in  a  former  letter,  less  savage,  though  very 
thievish  and,  if  once  in  a  while,  here  and  there,  a  few  of 
them  are  "hung  up  by  the  neck  until  they  be  de^d,"  the 
rest  of  them  will  keep  quiet  enough.  Again  it  must  be 
borne  in  mind  that  our  population  has  grown  quite  large 
and  consists  mostly  of  young  men,  well  able  and  accus- 
tomed to  bear  arms;  and  besides,  that  those  Indian  tribes 
beyond  the  mountains  are  almost  constantly  hostile  to- 
wards one  another  and  that,  even  at  best,  each  tribe  could 
but  put  a  few  warriors  in  the  field.  For  these  reasons 
they  will  never  be  able  to  stem,  or  even  temporarily  hin- 
der, the  tide  of  progress  in  this  glorious  countrj^  Tliere 
is  not  the  least  probability,— but  supposing  it  should 
happen— that  the  entire  body  of  savages  was  to  make  a 
combined  attack  upon  California,  it  would  only  hasten 
their  extermination,  which,  to  use  a  mild  expression,  I 
should   not    consider   undesirable— all   the   sentimental, 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  CALIFORNIA  273 

soft-headed  novelists  and  all  the  maudlin  poets,  who 
would  probably  be  scared  to  death,  if  one  of  these  dark, 
red-brown  muscular  fellows  were  to  approach  them,  tom- 
ahawk in  hand — to  the  contrary  notwithstanding. 

Let  us  change  the  subject.  When  you  say  in  your  let- 
ter, that  you  are  not  afraid  that  I  will  associate  with 
loose  and  worthless  persons,  I  can  only  repeat,  what  I 
have  said  before :  in  California  one  does  not  as  a  rule  be- 
come intimate  with  anybody.  You  combine  with  others, 
whenever  you  find,  that  to  do  so,  is  in  your  own  interest, 
and  that  it  enables  you  to  accomplish  a  certain  purpose. 
The  moment  this  is  accomplished,  perhaps  without  say- 
ing as  much  as  "good  bye,"  you  follow  your  own  way 
and  pay  no  more  attention  to  the  other  fellow  than  you 
would  to  an  old  tool,  which  you  have  thrown  aside,  not 
having  any  further  use  for  it.  "Why  shall  the  intelligent 
and  the  strong  always  drag  along  a  train  of  fools  and 
weaklings,  thereby  impeding  his  own  progress.  "Every 
one  for  himself  and  God  for  us  all ! "  Whenever  a  person 
of  common  sense  looks  around  for  another  to  assist  him 
in  digging  for  gold,  is  he  likely  to  ask  him:  What  are 
your  habits  and  your  principles'?  No,  but  he  will  satisfy 
himself,  that  the  man  can  look  him  straight  in  the  face, 
that  he  has  strong  arms  and  that  he  is  willing  to  work, 
even  under  hardships.  Or,  if  he  wants  to  engage  in  a 
mercantile  business,  is  he  likely  to  ask  of  his  prospective 
associate:  Can  you  use  a  pick  and  shovel  and  a  crowbar? 
No,  but  he  will  satisfy  himself  that  he  has  brains,  a 
knowledge  of  business  and  a  well  filled  purse.  It  is  of 
the  greatest  importance,  and  it  is  just  here,  where  the 
greatest  dfficulties  are  encountered,  namely,  to  find  in 
this  constantly  shifting  crowd,  the  proper  tools  and  to 
make  them  subservient  to  your  purpose;  to  do  this  ef- 
fectively requires  a  sound  knowledge  of  human  nature 
and  in  spite  of  this,  many  have  failed  and  even  broken 
their  necks,  and  this  mostly  because  they  chose  ways, 
which  are  crooked.  You  write  that  there  are  many,  who 
would  like  to  know  the  contents  of  my  letters  and  thereby 
show  "sympathy"  in  my  behalf.    Please  do  not  give  my 

18 


274         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

letters  too  wide  a  circulation  for,  I  confess,  that  I  should 
not  like  them  to  go  outside  of  the  circle  of  your  or  my 
friends.  I  am  convinced  that  the  "sympathy"  displayed 
by  other  outsiders  does  not  amount  to  much  and  all  they 
care  for,  is  to  hear  something  interesting  from  the  other 
side  of  the  globe.  Would  you  like  to  satisfy  yourself  as 
to  the  truth  of  my  assertion?  Just  go  and  ask  one  of 
those  sympathizers  if  they  are  willing  to  let  me — the  poor 
fellow— have  the  loan  of  five  hundred  dollars  to  start  a 
business!  I  do  not  think  you  will  try  the  proposition. 
I  know  all  about  such  interested  sympathy,  it  disgusts 
me!  ''Donee  eris  felix,  multos  numerabis  amicos,  tem- 
pera si  fuerint  nubila— solus  eris."  (As  long  as  you  will 
be  in  luck,  you  will  count  many  friends,  at  the  time  when 
there  will  have  been  clouds — you  will  be  alone.)  I  write 
for  my  loved  ones,  not  for  the  public!  You,  my  dear 
mother,  have  aroused  my  curiosity,  for,  what  in  the  world 
has  made  your  sweet  soul  so  angry  against  Griinhagen's 
father?  Is  there  really  any  cause  for  it?  Because  he 
does  not  want  to  hear  anything  about  the  return  of  his 
son?  Now  listen  to  me,  my  dear,  dear  mother,  and  I  shall 
try  to  explain  that  matter  to  you  as  I  see  it.  Heinrich 
Griinhagen  and  I  went  to  California  under  very  similar 
conditions.  Our  position  was  the  same,  our  education, 
both  at  school  and  afterward  in  business,  had  been  the 
same;  in  our  ages  there  is  only  a  difference  of  a  few 
months;  our  dispositions,  our  inclinations  are  about  the 
same  (though  our  character  may  differ  very  much).  We 
both  were  poor  boys  and  did  not  want  to  let  our  best 
years  pass  by  without  making  an  effort  to  better  our  con- 
ditions. We  both  realized  that  we  could  not  very  well  do 
so  in  our  old  home  surroundings  and  so  it  became  nat- 
ural for  us  to  look  abroad  for  greater  possibilities.  Thus 
we  came  to  California  with  the  intention  of  making  a 
fight  for  prosperity.  The  fight  began,  we  started  in  with 
stout  hearts,  but  we  were  beaten.  Gninhagen's  heart 
failed  after  the  first  reverses  and  he  actually  had  the 
intention  to  run  away,  to  retire  again  into  the  safe,  yet 
anything  but  brilliant  surroundings,  he  had  left  at  home. 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  CALIFORNIA  275 

To  this  his  father  objected  and  the  reasons  which  he  gave 
are  plain  enough  and  I  believe  that  his  father  was  right 
in  doing  as  he  did.  How  could  Griinhagen,  or  how  could 
I— or  how  could  any  one  with  common  sense— being  with- 
out means,  unfamiliar  with  the  country  and  with  life 
here;  without  friends,  even  without  reliable  acquaint- 
ances—how could  we  in  any  way  expect  to  succeed  with- 
out a  struggle!  Yea,  without  a  hard  struggle  and  with- 
out severe  disappointments — having  come  here  to  make 
our  fortune  and  with  the  firm  resolve  to  succeed  in  spite 
of  everything  and  of  everj^body!  Any  man,  who  has  the 
use  of  reason,  must  know  beforehand  that  such  a  battle 
cannot  be  won  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  considering  the 
terrible  odds  which  confronted  us.  Inasmuch  as  we  be- 
came familiar  with  our  arms  and  realized  the  strength  of 
the  enemy,  after  the  battle  of  western  life  had  begun,  I 
consider  the  experience  thus  gained  too  precious  and  too 
hard  won  a  treasure  to  turn  my  back  to  it.  And  now 
should  his  father  have  given  his  consent  and  let  his  boy 
run  away  after  the  first  attempt?  Though  the  battle  was 
seemingly  lost— we  are  richer  by  the  experience.  Is  not 
the  best  and  most  glorious  victory,  a  victory  won  over 
many  reverses?  Would  not  the  runaway,  whoever  he 
may  be,  make  himself  utterly  ridiculous  and  contemptible 
in  the  eyes  of  all  sensible  people  ?  To  be  made  the  laugh- 
ing stock  of  the  community  is  almost  worse  than  a  curse. 
"When  I  left  Hamburg,  I  had  made  up  my  mind  to  de- 
vote five  years  of  my  life  towards  accomplishing  the  pur- 
pose which  led  me  to  the  New  World,  and  which  consists 
in:  Making  money  enough  so  that  at  the  expiration  of 
the  time  set  I  should  be  enabled  to  found  my  own  homo 
with  a  good  and  thrifty  wife  at  my  side,  and  that,  with 
such  an  occupation  as  would  suit  me,  I  might  live  in  ease 
and  some  comfort.*  One  year  has  gone  by  and  I  have 
reason  to  hoi^e  that  it  was  the  worst  of  the  five,  and, 
while  it  has  not  brought  me  nearer  to  the  goal,  it  has 
made  me  familiar  with  the  field  of  operations.     I  have 


*And,  bless  his  soul,  he  succeeded ! — Transl. 


276  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

learned  to  distinguish  my  friends  from  my  enemies  and 
it  has  taught  me  hundreds  of  other  things  which  were 
necessary  for  me  to  learn;  and  thus  it  has  benefited  me, 
and,  best  of  all,  I  am  convinced  that  I  have  deceived  my- 
self in  my  hopes  and  expectations.  Tlie  remaining  four 
years  shall  be  devoted  to  the  same  purpose  and, 
provided  I  remain  master  of  my  own  free  will,  these  com- 
ing four  years  devoted  thus  to  the  service  of  my  purpose 
irill  not  be  curtailed  one  single  hour,  except  it  be  that  I 
reach  the  fulfillment  of  my  plans  before  the  expiration  of 
that  time,  which,  however,  I  can  hardly  expect.  I  would 
therefore  say  to  you,  my  sweet,  darling  mother,  do  not  ex- 
pect to  see  me  again  before  the  expiration  of  the  time 
I  have  set. 

I  have  never  cared  about  the  '^ Affection"  of  the  public ; 
respect  was  all  I  demanded,  and  that  I  could  enforce,  if 
necessaiy.  Should  I  return  home  to-day,  the  people 
would  be  justified  in  ridiculing  me  and  to  compare 
me  to  a  school  boy  who  ventured  into  a  dark  room  and, 
becoming  frightened,  ran  at  once  back  to  mamma's  apron 
strings.  Should  I,  however,  return  after  five  years,  even 
without  having  accomplished  my  purpose,  but  after  hav- 
ing faithfully  and  perseveringly  tried  to  do  so,  having 
fought  bravely,  though  in  vain,  my  course  will  not  resem- 
ble the  running  away  of  a  school  boy  from  a  ghost,  but 
it  will  be  the  withdrawing  of  a  man  from  a  fight  to  which 
his  strength  is  no  longer  equal.  But  ere  all  honorable 
resources  are  exhausted  and  before  all  strength  is  gone, 
there  must  and  there  shall  be  no  talk  of  retreat.  Should 
that  point  be  reached,  however,  there  will  then  be  noth- 
ing cowardly,  nothing  ridiculous  about  it  and  no  sane  man 
need  be  ashamed  of  it. 

January  31st,  1853. 

The  closing  of  mail  compels  me  to  seal  my  letter  and 
all  I  wish  to  add  is  my  great  satisfaC'tion  at  Carl's  suc- 
cess, the  most  interesting  news  in  Alexis'  welcome  mis- 
sive. 

In  regard  to  my  health,  I  must  say  that  it  progresses 


IMPRESSIONS  OF  CALIFORNIA  277 

slowly,  but  surely.  My  stomach  is  as  yet  very  weak  and 
will  not  accept  heavy,  substantial  food,  so  that  my  diet  is 
rather  restricted  and  my  limbs,  being  swollen  as  far  as 
the  knees,  remind  me  of  their  deficiencies  by  cramping 
pains  and  by  trembling  whenever  I  venture  to  take  even 
moderate  exercise  that  I  must  not  consider  myself  "a 
healthy  man. ' '  These  troubles,  however,  are  but  the  con- 
sequences of  the  fever  and  will  disapi>ear  in  time.  As 
you  know  me  well  enough,  you  will  realize  that  it  is  not 
my  own  temporary  indisposition  which  gives  me  most 
conqern,  but  the  state  of  m^^  Marie's  health;  I  long  to 
hear  favorable  news  about  her  condition. 

Hearty  greetings  to  all  my  loved  ones !  F.  L. 


Feom  the  Diary.* 

Fehruary  28th,  1853.  My  health  had  somewhat  im- 
proved and  a  clerkship  in  a  toy-store  had  been  accepted 
at  thirty  dollars  a  month  and  board.  This  lasted  just  a 
month,  when  Otto  Deussing,  the  owner,  expressed  his  re- 
gret, that  business  would  not  allow  the  expense,  but  that 
I  could  remain,  with  board,  free,  until  something  better 
turned  up,  which  I  gladly  accepted. 

March  15th,  1853.  My  strength  has  returned  and  with 
it  my  courage  to  try  again.  To-day,  I  bought  a  hand- 
cart for  fifty  dollars  (payable  at  convenience),  and  the 
naorrow  will  find  me  at  the  corner  of  Battery  and  Com- 
mercial Streets  as  ''hand-cart-man  No.  107." 

Griinhagen  is  said  to  have  opened  a  store  in  Pajaro. 
Olias,  Kamcke  and  Emil  Boettcher  are  in  the  mines,  suf- 
fering from  fever. 


*The  following  pages  contain  the  most  interesting  details, 
gathered  from  the  diary  of  the  author,  as  from  now  on  there  are 
but  few  letters  in  a  sufificient  state  of  preservation  to  be  trans- 
lated. The  diary  in  itself  is  a  model  among  its  kind.  Such  neat- 
ness, accuracy  and  faithful  execution,  till  sickness  disabled  the 
noble  man  from  continuing  it.  are  seldom  seen ;  and  they  show 
that  the  author  must  have  been  thorough  in  everything. — Transl. 


278  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

June  30th,  1853.  My  life  as  a  hand-cart-man  has  some- 
thing romantic  about  it.  I  reside  in  a  vacant  store  on 
Market  street,  the  use  of  which  Neiihaus  had  proffered 
me.  My  furniture  consists  of  a  mattress,  a  plain  table 
and  a  box  to  sit  on.  Breakfast  and  supper  are  home- 
made, and  dinner  is  mostly  procured  at  a  restaurant. 
Not  being  strong  enough  to  take  heavy  burdens,  my  earn- 
ings are  naturally  very  small.  I  make  on  an  average  two 
dollars  a  day.  Have  managed  to  pay  for  the  cart  and  a 
few  minor  debts  and  bought  some  clothes. 

July  7th,  1853.  Saulmann  offered  me  a  position  as 
hotel-iraiter  with  Louis  Etonbleau  in  Alameda.  Salary 
fifty  dollars  and  board,  which  I  accepted.  Good  bye, 
Hand-cart!— Arriving  at  my  new  station,  I  encountered 
some  difficulty,  as  I  told  the  employer  that  I  was  but  an 
apprentice  in  that  position  and  had  it  not  been  for  his 
kind-hearted  Hamburg  wife,  he  would  have  surely  sent 
me  away.  x\s  it  happened,  he  engaged  me  at  forty  dol- 
lars a  month,  on  trial.  The  hotel  is  situated  on  the  bor- 
der of  the  magnificent  oak-forest,  about  half  a  mile  from 
San  Leandro  Creek.  There  are  but  few  houses  in  the 
neighborhood. 

August  19th,  1853.  Every  thing  goes  smoothly.  The 
Etonbleau  family  and  assistants  are  very  congenial  peo- 
ple, mostly  French.  Strangers  are  seldom  seen  on  week- 
days and  our  table-guests  are  mostly  the  artisans  from 
the  neighboring  buildings,  and  other  toilers.  Sunday  is 
our  busy  day.  Plenty  of  light  work,  incomparably  health- 
ful air  and  good,  substantial  food  have  brought  back  my 
old  strength,  for  which  I  am  infinitely  thankful.— Griin- 
hagen  is  still  in  Pajaro;  both  the  town  and  this  inhabitant 
have  changed  their  name  and  will  henceforth  be  known  as 
Henry  Jackson  of  Watsonville,  Cal.  As  Americans  in- 
variably mispronounced  his  name,  friend  Gn'inhagen 
conceived  the  idea  of  adopting  the  maiden-name  of  his 
mother. 

Here  follows  one  of  the  few  remaining  letters. 


LETTER  NO.  X 


Alameda,  November  2d,  1853. 
My  Dear  Ones: 

Tliough  I  do  not  exactly  know  what  to  write  to-day,  I 
trust  the  material  will  come  as  time  progresses.  As  you 
will  notice,  I  am  still  at  Alameda,  with  Etonhleau.  I 
like  it  very  well  and  have  no  intention  at  present  of 
changing  my  place,  so  long  as  I  cannot  better  my  circum- 
stances materially,  though  so  far,  there  has  been  no  raise 
of  salary.  You  will  therefore  realize  that  everything 
continues  as  heretofore,  with  no  changes  worth  mention- 
ing to  report,  so  far  as  I  am  concerned.  Alameda,  which 
three  months  ago  existed  only  on  the  map,  counts  now 
from  fifty  to  sixty  block-houses  to  which  number,  one  is 
added  daily.  We  have  daily  communication  with  the 
principal  places  along  the  bay,  and  a  special  small 
steamer  runs  twice  a  day,  from  here  to  San  Francisco 
and  back.  This  is  the  way  we  populate  towns  and  cities 
in  America!  Can  you  figure  out  how  long  it  would  take 
the  good  people  of  Germany  to  build  up  a  place  like  this, 
and  how  much  red  tape  and  many  parliamentary  actions 
would  be  necessary  to  bring  stage  and  even  steamer  com- 
munication to  the  new  town?  As  most  American  towns 
and  cities  have  arisen,  as  I  may  say,  like  our  Alameda, 
a  more  detailed  description  will  not  be  amiss.  This  will 
prove  to  you  that  we  are  in  the  habit  of  doing  things 
over  here  and  of  doing  them  to  suit  the  present  need,  to 
suit—1  repeat  it— the  purpose.  W.  Chipman,  an  Ameri- 
can, settled  in  this  part  of  the  country  about  three  years 
ago  when  hardly  anjiDody  thought  of  going  into  agricul- 
ture and  when  land  had  hardly  any  value  at  all.  Being 
pressed  by  new  settlers  who  curtailed,  what  he  had  con- 
sidered his  birth-rights  as  senior  squatter,  he  bought  the 

279 


280  EAST  i'RL'SSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

district  of  San  Antonio,  which  borders  on  the  bay  of  San 
Antonio,  the  bay  of  San  Francisco  and  of  San  Leandro, 
from  the  rich  Mexican  land-owner,  Antonio  Peralta,  for 
about  ten  thousand  dollars;  thus  securing  a  clear  title  to 
the  land. 

Chipman  wanted  to  make  money,  piles  of  money,  and 
after  he  had  laid  out  a  small  part  of  his  possession  for 
garden-produce,  he  had  his  property  surveyed  and  cut 
it  into  lots  of  tour  square  acres  each,  which  he  put  last 
year  in  San  Francisco,  on  the  real  estate  market.  Though 
the  values  in  property  had  already  risen  considerably  in 
Northern  California,  the  uncertainty  and  unreliability  of 
land  titles,  and  moreover,  the  insolence  of  the  squatters, 
who  simply  took  possession  after  anned  invasion  of  what- 
soever ranch  would  strike  their  fancy,  scared  the  buyers 
and  Chipman 's  speculation  failed  almost  completely,  as 
he  could  dispose  of  but  very  few  of  his  four-acre  lots. 
Etonbleau  had  the  good  fortune  to  secure  his  sixteen 
acres  at  this  time  for  seventy-five  dollars  an  acre.  Chip- 
man  saw  himself  beaten,  but  resolved  to  make  up  for  loss 
of  time,  and  the  rapid  growth  of  our  neighboring  city, 
Oakland,  inspired  him  anew.  He  made  up  his  mind  to 
lay  out  a  city.  He  engaged  a  surveyor  to  divide  the 
property  into  lots  of  335x100  feet  and  to  draw  plans  of 
various  kinds  for  puiposes  to  suit  his  imagination.  He 
then  chartered  the  steam-boat  ''Bonita,"  to  serve  as 
ferry-boat  between  here  and  San  Francisco  for  one  thou- 
sand dollars  a  month,  not  including  fares  and  freights, 
and  agreeing  to  supply  free  fuel.  The  new  city  of  Ala- 
meda had  thus  been  forced  into  existence  and  lacked 
only— houses  and  people.  But  this  part  did  not  worry 
Cliipman.  The  newspapers  of  San  Francisco  commenced 
now  to  describe  the  magnificent,  healthful  climate  and 
boomed  every  thing  that  could  be  found,  or  could  not  be 
found,  in  Alameda  and  did  everything  to  encourage  new 
settlers.  In  the  meantime  it  was  rumored  that  the  great 
philanthropist  Chipman  would  give  away  lots,  with  clear 
title.  This  rumor  was  promptly  contradicted  and  again 
it  appeared  until  the  people  of  San  Francisco  had  almost 


AMERICAN  SUPERIORITY  281 

grown  nervous  over  the  prospects.  When  the  excitement 
was  at  its  height,  Chipman  suddenly  placarded  city  and 
county  with  yard-long  bills  in  green,  red,  yellow  and  blue 
colors,  which  announced  to  every  one  who  had  eyes  to 
see  and  brains  to  comprehend,  that  the  magnificent 
newly-laid  out  city  of  Alameda  would  surely  become  the 
only  place  worthy  of  a  gentleman  to  live  in.  It  was  made 
plain  as  daylight  that  perhaps  within^ a  year's  time 
wharves,  steamship  and  railroad  lines  would  help  to 
make  this  the  most  attractive  spot  on  the  Pacific  coast. 
This  and  many  other  illusory  stories  appeared  before 
the  dazed  eyes  of  the  readers,  who  were  slowly  led  to  be- 
lieve that  they  were  to  be  participants  in  the  foundation 
of  another  Xew  York.  Having  for  a  time  moulded  the 
minds  of  the  unwary  in  such  and  similar  announcements, 
he  finally  played  his  trump  card.  Notwithstanding  the 
undeniable  fact  that  the  value  of  those  city  lots  could 
hardly  be  estimated,  he,  Chipman,  had  decided  to  part 
with  them,  free  to  all  who  agree  to  build  a  wooden 
structure  for  residence  purpose,  no  smaller  than  sixteen 
by  twenty  feet  within  ten  days  from  date  of  agreement. 
And  all  this  as  a  token  of  love  for  his  fellow-men.  Thus 
stated  Chipman,  the  philanthropist. 

That  brought  the  crowds.  They  came  in  ship-loads 
from  across  the  bay  and  as  Alameda  has  in  reality  some 
of  the  natural  beauties,  which  the  board-bills  described, 
the  majority  of  visitors  thought  well  of  the  proposition, 
especially  as  they  could  get  something  for  nothing — ap- 
parently. Americans  are  well  aware  of  the  fact  that  a 
real-estate  boom  must  always  be  taken  at  a  discount  and 
they  should  not  be  disappointed  in  their  anticipation  re- 
garding Alameda.  Many  had  enlisted  and  secured  the 
lots  but, — will  you  believe  it, — most  of  them  failed  to 
build  the  little  house.  And  how  many  people  bemonrn 
to-day  their  lost  opportunities.  Well  does  our  German 
poet  advise  us:  "Learn  to  cling  to  opportunities."  No 
sooner  had  about  a  dozen  houses  been  erected,  when  phil- 
anthropist Chipman  stop]>ed  his  "free  for  all"  proposi- 
tion and  declared  his  previous  offer  null  and  void,  except 


282  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

in  the  few  cases  where  the  ten-day-improvement-clause 
had  been  properly  and  wholly  carried  out.  He  immedi- 
ately started  to  auction  off  all  remaining  and  unim- 
proved lots  and  sold  a  good  number  at  a  price  of  from 
fifty  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  a  lot,  according  to  lo- 
cation. In  a  later  auction,  held  at  San  Francisco,  he 
realized  even  more;  and  to-day,— about  two  years  after- 
one  gladly  pays  him  from  a  hundred  and  eighty  to  three 
hundred  dollars.  This  last  quotation  is  about  one-half 
of  what  Chipman  paid  for  the  whole  town-site. 

Friend  Etonbleau,  who  invested  in  time  and  owns  six- 
teen acres  in  the  very  heart  of  the  town  has  likewise 
profited  by  this  "boom,"  without  even  soiling  his  con- 
science; he  is  now  a  wealthy  man  and  contemplates  re- 
turning next  year  to  "la  belle  France,"  to  spend  his  re- 
maining days  in  the  peaceful  enjoyment  of  home-life  and 
comfort.  I  personally  am  glad  for  their  sake,  for  he  and 
his  noble  Hamburg  wife  are  courageous,  honest,  amiable 
and  industrious  people,  whose  good  fortune  has  not 
turned  their  heads.    I  sincerely  wish  them  God-speed. 

If  I  only  had  been  able  to  invest  about  a  hundred  dol- 
lars at  the  time  of  my  arrival,  I  should  now  be  the  gainer 
of  five  or  six  hundred  dollars.  As  it  is,  I  can  only  dwell 
in  air-castles  and  be  satisfied  to  congratulate  others  upon 
their  success. 

November  13th,  1853. 

Hurrah !  Another  holiday  for  me !  I  just  received  your 
long-looked  for  letter,  dated  the  fifth  of  August  a.  c. 
Many  thanks  for  all  the  welcome  news  it  contains. 

Indeed  it  is  no  surprise  to  me  that  our  American  news- 
papers give  more  political  and  local  information  and  are 
generally  more  informing  than  yours.  This  is  particu- 
larly true  of  the  Koszta  affair  in  8myma.  Everj^  one  of 
our  papers  is  full  of  unlimited  praise  for  Capt.  Ingraham, 
who,  by  his  energetic  action  freed  Koszta  from  the  hands 
of  the  Austrians  and  only  express  regret  that  In  graham 
did  not  make  use  of  the  language  which  our  cannons  are 
so  able  to  voice  in  order  to  teach  those  Austrians  how 


AMERICAN  SUPERIORITY  283 

citizens  of  our  free  states  are  to  be  respected.  Tell  me, 
has  a  single  one  of  your  papers  given  space  to  the  answer 
of  our  Secretary  of  State,  Marcy,  to  the  request  of  Aus- 
tria for  indemnity?  Not  one,  I  wager.  Such  tobacco 
would  have  been  too  strong  for  a  German  smoker.  It 
pleases  me  to  hear  that  at  last  you  have  a  railroad. 
Things  do  go  dreadfully  slow  over  there:  nobody  will  dis- 
pute that.  Your  road-building,  above  all  gives  ample 
proof  of  it.  Alongside  of  this,  just  allow  me  to  hint  at 
a  few  things  which  have  been  accomplished  here  in  Cali- 
fornia, just  a  little  of  it,  as  it  comes  to  my  mind.  And  all 
within  tivo  months: 

1.  San  Francisco  has  gas.  The  plant,  the  holder— 
fifty-eight  feet  in  diameter— twenty  feet  high— forty 
thousand  yards  or  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand 
German  feet  of  pipes  have  been  laid  and  by  New  Y''ear 
our  city  will  be  illuminated  by  gas. 

2.  Four  brand-new  wharves  of  about  two  to  four  hun- 
dred yards  in  length  and  forty  to  fifty  feet  wide  have 
been  constructed  and  the  old  ones  repaired. 

3.  Electrical  telegraphs,  one  coast-line,  to  report  in- 
coming vessels,  and  vessels  in  distress;  the  other  from 
San  Francisco  to  Sacramento— about  100  miles  distant. 
Two  or  three  branch  lines  have  likewise  been  under  con- 
struction. Quite  a  number  of  surveyors  and  road-build- 
ers are  engaged  in  finding  the  most  desirable  passes 
through  the  Sierra  Nevada  in  order  to  plan  the  best  pos- 
sible and  the  safest  possible  route  for  the  Great  Eastern 
Railroad  which  is  intended  to  cross  the  desert.  It  is 
contemplated  to  begin  work  at  either  end  during  the  com- 
ing spring.  The  costs  are  not  expected  to  exceed  fifty 
million  dollars  and  have  been  partly  provided  for  before- 
hand. Strong  military  escorts  protect  these  commission- 
ers and  sur^^eyors  from  attacks  by  the  Indians.  Soldiers 
are  often  ordered  to  aid  or  protect  commercial  undertak- 
ings,—a  wise  plan  to  keep  those  fellows  (the  Indians) 
out  of  mischief. 

4.  Three  new  river  steam-boats,— one  about  two  hun- 


284  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

dred  feet  in  length— have  left  the  ship-yards  of  San  Fran- 
cisco, and  as  many  more  are  now  in  course  of  construc- 
tion. 

5.  A  new  semi-monthly  steam-ship  service  between 
here  and  Central  America  has  opened  and  it  is  announced 
that  the  first  vessel,  the  "Amazon,"  with  a  capacity  of 
one  thousand  tons,  will  leave  with  passengers  and  freight 
on  December  the  first,  a.  c. 

6.  The  "Leytona"  has  arrived  in  San  Francisco  and 
will  henceforth  sail  between  this  port  and  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  Two  other  boats,  for  the  same  purpose,  will  be 
installed  by  the  same  company,  immediately  upon  ar- 
rival. 

Were  it  my  intention  to  give  you  a  recital  of  all  minor 
occurrences  in  and  about  the  city,  such  as  the  construc- 
tion of  churches,  road-building,  planking  of  sidewalks, 
bridge-building,  new  express  lines,  river-shipping,  I 
should  have  to  fill  half  a  dozen  sheets.  But  to  give  you 
even  a  faint  idea  of  the  busy  life,  I  shall  but  state  that 
in  San  Francisco  alone,  there  are  no  less  than  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty-five  brick  buildings  going  up  right  now! 
About  four  weeks  ago,  I  read  in  a  local  newspaper  what 
a  correspondent  had  to  say  about  progress  in  the  city  of 
Sacramento,  where  he  assures  us  there  are  at  present 
two  hundred  and  twenty-two  brick  buildings  and  eight 
hundred  and  forty-eight  dwellings  of  wooden  structure, 
not  counting  barns,  stables,  warehouses  and  the  like. 
And  do  you  not  remember  that  I  wrote  to  you  last  win- 
ter regarding  the  total  destruction  of  that  city? 

I  shall  not  force  any  more  news  from  this  part  of  the 
globe  upon  you.  But  I  blush,  when  I  compare  my  own 
beloved  fatherland  with  this  country.  Next  to  poverty, 
it  is  the  greatest  misfortune  that  can  weigh  upon  an  in- 
dustrious, strong-minded  youth,  to  hare  been  horn  else- 
ivhere  than  in  the  United.  States  of  North  America!  Well 
do  I  comprehend  the  just  pride  of  the  Yankee  and  inter- 
pret the  fire  which  sparkles  in  his  eyes,  when  he  sings 
his  national  hymn:  "Tlie  Star  Spangled  Banner,"  whilst 
he  watches  the  unfurling  of  the  proudest,  purest  flag  of 


AMERICAN  SUPERIORITY  285 

God's  earth,  the  ''Stars  and  Stripes"  to  the  breeze  of  his 
free  and  mighty  country! 

My  dear  father,  in  speaking  of  Griinhagen  and  Emil 
Bottcher,  you  make  the  remark  that  such  inconsistency 
of  fate  annoys  you.  Not  so  with  me,  nor  do  I  believe 
that  any  Californian  thinks  it  strange.  One  has  to  pass 
here  through  many  different  stages.  An  example  may 
here  suffice: 

The  hand-cart,  which  I  procured  last  year,  was  the 
property  of  a  German,  who  had  made  the  round  sum  of 
one  thousand  dollars  with  it,  inside  of  a  year  and  a  half. 
He  was,  and  is  yet,  an  honorable,  industrious  man  and 
appeared  to  me,  who  at  the  time  was  a  sick,  broken-down 
and  almost  penniless  individual,  to  be  in  a  position,  which 
I  might  have  envied.  About  the  same  time  I  went  to 
Alameda,  he  disposed  of  his  cart  and  invested  his  money 
in  a  horse  and  dray,  (freight  truck,  it  is  called  in  some 
places),  and  with  the  remaining  sum  he  bought  a  small 
piece  of  property  in  San  Francisco.  A  few  weeks  after 
his  happy  change,  misfortune  overtook  him.  His  dray 
was  destroyed  in  a  fire,  his  horse  was  killed  by  a  fall  a 
few  days  after,  and  to  complete  his  ill  luck,  there  ap- 
peared the  rightful  owner  to  the  property  he  had  thought 
to  be  his  own,  and  proved  to  him,  that  he  had  been  made 
the  victim  of  an  unscrupulous  swindler.  In  consequence, 
the  poor  man  had  to  let  go  his  hold,  give  up  his  lot,  and 
furthermore  he  was  unable  to  bring  the  deceiver  to  jus- 
tice. When  I  happened  to  be  in  San  Francisco  some  four 
weeks  ago,  I  met  him  on  the  street,  sick  with  fever  and 
penniless.  I  gave  him  five  dollars,  which  he  gratefully 
accepted.  "Which  of  us  to-day,  do  you  suppose,  will  envy 
the  other,  he  or  I?  And,  if  you  tell  anybody  of  it  here, 
you  hardly  gain  attention,  as  such  occurrence  is  not  at 
all  rare.  The  Yankee,  if  at  all  interested,  will  remove 
his  chewing  tobacco  and  exclaim:  "Well!  California  is 
a  great  country!"  I  have  not  heard  from  Griinhagen 
within  six  months  and  Emil  Bottcher  has  gone  to  the 
Society  Islands,  as  his  brother  informs  me. 


286  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

November  16tli,  1853. 
You  ask  me,  dear  father,  why  I  have  not  sent  my  let- 
ters through  Bottcher,  as  formerly,  and  wonder  whether 
there  has  been  a  misunderstanding  between  us.  This  is  a 
new  proof,  that  you  cannot  familiarize  yourself  with  our 
conditions  and  their  changing  possibilities.  As  I  experi- 
ence it,  as  I  carry  on  my  warfare,  so  do  thousands  of 
others  struggle  for  an  existence.  As  I  have  written  to 
you  more  than  once,  the  only  way  to  succeed  here  is  to 
take  the  first  chance  which  offers  itself,  no  matter  what 
it  may  be.  And  this  is  exactly  the  case  with  Bottcher, 
who  has  just  decided  to  enter  fann-life,  to  plow,  sow  and 
engage  in  similar  pleasures  which  the  Goddess  of  agricul- 
ture may  have  in  store  for  him.  He  had  long  since  sev- 
ered himself  from  his  mercantile  connections  and  kept  a 
small  hotel  in  Union  City— about  eighteen  miles  south  of 
here.  Many  times  I  had  not  the  slightest  knowledge  of 
his  whereabouts,  and  it  therefore  would  take  me  three 
times  as  long  to  send  my  mail  through  him,  as  by  the 
ordinary  channel.  This  accounts  for  the  change.  As  to 
my  personal  good-fellowship  with  Bottcher,  there  has 
been  no  break;  on  the  contraiy,  eveiy thing  is  more  agree- 
able than  ever,  as  I  have  been  able  to  return  to  him  the 
sixty  dollars  which  he  so  generously  loaned  me  in  time 
of  need.  As  to  the  New  York  post-mark  I  cannot  en- 
lighten you,  but  believe  that  the  fifteenth  of  June  is  the 
correct  date.  It  takes  from  twenty-five  to  twenty-eight 
days  to  go  from  here  to  New  York  (via  Panama),  and 
twelve  days  from  New  York  to  Aix  la  Chapelle  is  not 
uncommon.  The  postage,  whether  paid  here  or  over 
there  should  be  the  same,  namely  thirty  cents  or  thirteen 
silvergroschen  for  single  weight.  Thirty  cents  here  is 
scarcely  enough  money  for  a  good  cigar,  while  thirteen 
groschen  will  suffice  to  buy  yourself  a  bottle  of  good 
Bavarian  beer  every  evening  for  two  weeks  in  succes- 
sion. I  want  you  to  figure  upon  that  and  not  to  ask  me 
again  to  let  you  pay  the  postage  of  my  letters.  Please 
send  your  mail  through  Bartsch.  Tliere  is  no  reason  for 
a  change,  as  I  have  hitherto  been  well  treated,  and  as 


AMERICAN  SUPERIORITY  287 

my  present  address,  though  seemingly  of  some  duration, 
is  by  no  means  absolutely  permanent;  we  had  better  leave 
well  enough  alone.  Who  knows  how  long  or  how  short 
my  stay  may  be.  The  next  week,  nay  even  the  moiTow 
may  change  my  destiny.  Just  leave  those  things  as  we 
have  been  accustomed  to  do  since  my  arrival;  it  is  the 
safest  plan. 

Give  mother  and  Marie  my  inmost  thanks  for  their 
ever-welcome  letters.  They  know  very  well  how  fond  I 
am  of  lilacs  and  consequently  I  decorated  my  picture 
with  them  to  celebrate  my  birthday  anniversary.  And 
I  certainly  realize  how  you  all  love  me,  probably  more 
than  I  deserve,  undoubtedly  more  than  I  shall  ever  be 
able  to  repay,  not  for  the  want  of  heart,— for  all  and 
every  one  of  you  dwell  within  my  heart,— but  for  the 
want  of— I  do  not  know  what  to  call  it!  Do  you  remem- 
ber that  part  in  Fredrika  Bremer's*  novel  "The  Home," 
where  the  old  assessor  falls  in  love  with  little  Eva*?  I 
refer  to  the  warm,  living  hearts  in  the  cold,  coarse,  ugly 
stone.  This  comparison  to  the  assessor  is  apt  to  fit  much 
younger  people. 

Tell  Podlech  to  remain  where  he  is  as  long  as  every- 
thing goes  fairly  well  but,  if  things  should  change  for 
the  worse  and  darken  his  hopes  for  the  future,  let  him 
not  waste  time  in  a  fruitless  attempt  to  regain  his  lost 
fortune  but  rather  remember  that  California  is  a  country 
where  people  of  his  kind  are  certain  of  success.  May 
Carl  Podlech  also  be  assured  that  he  has  a  true  and  sin- 
cere friend  in  the  far  West,  who  will  always  be  mindful 
of  the  debt  of  gratitude  which  he,  (that  is  myself)  owes 
him. 

As  you  know,  we  mix  here  with    representatives    of 


*Fredrika  Bremer's  novels:  The  Neighbors,  the  Home,  the 
President's  Daughter  and  Nina  are  a  masterly  exposition  of 
Swedish  character  and  make  admirable  reading-  for  refined  home 
circles.  Young  Mr.  Lecouvreur's  reference  to  them  gives  us  a 
welcome  proof  of  his  parents'  delicate  and  wise  selection  of  family 
literature.  Would,  that  all  parents  were  as  careful,  and  the  num- 
ber of  such  sterling  sons  would  be  greater. — Translator. 


^88    EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

every  nation  on  the  globe,  and  consequently  there  is  prob- 
ably no  place  where  one  finds  so  much  foreign  money  in 
circulation  as  here.  To  give  you  a  striking  example,  I 
shall  mention  the  present  contents  of  my  purse  which  is 
divided  into  four  parts: 

First  pocket :  One  French  five-francs  dollar ;  one  Peru- 
vian piaster ;  one  French  half-franc ;  two  Chilean 
reals. 

Second  pocket :  Four  French  francs ;  one  Prussian  half- 
florin;  two  Spanish  two-real  pieces. 

Third  pocket:  One  East  India  rupee;  three  American 
half-dollars;  two  American  dimes. 

Fourth  pocket:  One  Dutch  ten-florin  gold-piece;  one 
American  Eagle— ten  dollars. 

In  all,  nineteen  dollars  and  seventy-five  cents  in  coins 
from  no  less  than  eight  different  countries.  Is  not  that 
an  example  of  Babylonic  confusion? 

Some  of  you  folks  may  be  greatly  interested  in  this 
coin  question  and,  for  their  benefit,  I  will  undertake  to 
give  you  as  close  a  list  of  current  coins,  including  of 
course,  all  foreign  money,  as  we  daily  run  across  it.  To 
make  it  a  quick  and  comprehensive  description,  I  shall 
mention  the  American  value  first,  to  be  followed  by  its 
respective  foreign  competitors,  some  of  which  have  a 
history  of  their  own,  which  afford  interesting  reading. 

Copper  coins  do  not  exist  here. 

Silver  coins: 

Half  dime—^ve  cents — is  very  scarce  as  people  do  not 
care  to  handle  so  small  a  coin,  and  which  in  reality  is 
therefore  of  little  use.  I  consequently  commence  my 
coin  table  with: 

I.  The  Dime— ten  cents— 4  silvergroschen  2i/2  pfg- 
Prussian;  or  French  half- franc  piece;  or  Spanish  real— 
which  is  very  common  here  and  generally  counts  eight  to 
the  dollar,  though  many  people  do  not  consider  the  dif- 
ference, and  pass  them  for  dimes.  These  reals,  (which 
in  fact  are  I21/2  cents)  come  from  Spain,  Mexico,  Central 
and  South  America. 


AMERICAN   SUPERIORITY  289 

II.  The  Quarter— 2^  cents— 10  sgr.  7i/l>  pfg.  Prussian, 
is  the  coin  most  frequently  met  with;  it  stands  in  equal 
value  with  the 

English  shilling,  though  worth  seven  pfenning  less. 

East  Indian  half  rupees  a  trifle  less  in  value. 

French  francs,  in  reality  two  silvergroschen,  ten  iDfen- 
nings  less  in  value  than  the  American  quarter.  Notwith- 
standing this  fact,  the  coin  generally  passes  for  a  quar- 
ter, though  it  does  seem  strange.  The  stor^-^  is  frequently 
told  that  a  local  finn,  Godefroy  &  Sillem,  branch  house 
of  the  world-renowned  finn  of  Godefroy  &  Co.,  Hamburg, 
imported  some  three  years  ago  a  large  quantity  of  francs 
and  put  them  in  circulation  as  quarters,  which  they 
closely  resemble,  at  least  in  size.  It  proved  successful 
and  Godefroy  realized  an  enormous  gain  from  this  trans- 
action. But  the  secret  leaked  out.  Nowadays,  many  im- 
migrants are  loaded  with  francs,  the  most  profitable  mer- 
chandise for  importation.  ThiS'  will  not  last  long  and 
measures  to  prevent  the  circulation  of  the  franc  in  its 
present  form  will  soon  be  taken ;  even  now  people  are  try- 
ing to  avoid  them. 

Ciiartillo  Pesos,  coined  in  Old  Spain,  Mexico,  Central 
American  Eepublics,  Peru,  Bolivia,  New  Granada,  Bra- 
zil, Argentine  Republic,  Paraguay  and  Chile  are  very 
numerous  and  perhaps  the  most  honest  equivalent  of- 
fered for  the  American  quarter-dollar,  as  it  even  weighs 
a  trifle  more. 

Prussian  Half  Florin  (Gulden).  For  curiosity's  sake 
I  shall  mention  an  attempt  to  flood  the  market  with  these 
coins.  Godefro3"'s  successful  experiment  had  induced 
another  German  firm  to  do  likewise.  J.  G.  Schroder,  the 
Hamburg  merchant  prince  and  banker,  is  said  to  have 
been  tempted  to  this  transaction  by  his  local  representa- 
tive. Well,  the  Prussian  Half  Florins,  which  are  scarcely 
worth  one-half  of  an  American  quarter,  had  found  man}^ 
dupes,  as  its  size  deceives  the  guileless,— of  which  there 
are  still  some  left!  But  Schroder's  agent  was  in  too 
great  a  hurry  to  get-rich-quick  and  the  flooding  of  the 
money  market  with  these  coins  was  resented    by    San 


290  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Francisco  bankers,  who  informed  the  people  as  to  the 
real  value  of  the  "Gulden."  As  soon  as  the  fact  became 
generally  known,  the  agency  had  to  stand  the  inpour  of 
the  rejected  coins,  as  well  as  the  many  uncomplimentary 
suggestions,  that  were  offered  gratuitously.  Now  and 
then  one  runs  across  one  of  these  importations  and  as 
you  will  have  noticed,  even  your  only  son,— bright  as  a 
fond  parent  may  think  him  to  be!— counts  one  of  them 
among  the  miscellaneous  coins  in  his  porte-monnaie. 
Somebody  got  the  best  of  me  lately  but,  never  mind,  I 
shall  get  rid  of  it  sometime.  ''Tit  for  tat"  or,  as  the 
Germans  say:  ''Wurst  wider  Wurst." 

III.  The  Half  Dollar-60  cents-21  sgr.,  3  pfg. 
Pruss.,  likewise  acceptable  are:  Medio  Peso,  Bolivian, 
Peruvian  but  rarely  Spanish  coin. 

East  Indiaii  Rupee: 

IV.  The  Dollar— One  thaler  12  sgr.  6  pfg.  Prussian. 
American  dollars  are  so  rare  here  that  I  have  not  come 
across  a  single  one  during  my  stay  in  San  Francisco.  In 
its  place,  one  receives  foreign  coins  of  the  following 
kind: 

Five  Franc  pieces,  silver,  very  common. 

Bolivian  and  Peruvian  Peso — one  thaler  14  sgr.  Pruss. 

Old  Spanish  and  Mexican  Piaster:  likewise  Prus- 
sian Thaler  is  not  at  all  rare,  though  onlj^  the  large 
old  coins  with  the  images  of  Frederic  II  and  Frederic 
William  II  pass  for  dollars;  the  later  and  smaller 
ones  do  not  serve  the  purpose,  as  people  generally  de- 
cline to  receive  them,  except  as  seventy-five  cent  pieces, 
which  in  reality  is  just  about  what  they  are  worth.  Prus- 
sian money  has  come  into  such  disrepute  since  the  half- 
gulden  speculation  fell  through,  that  many  people  abso- 
lutely refuse  to  accept  it,  even  at  a  liberal  discount.  In 
fact,  it  is  a  growing  belief  that  the  Prussian  money,  as 
we  have  it  here,  is  but  a  counterfeit,  that  is,  that  it  con- 
sists of  silver-plated  copper  coins.  It  is  hardly  credible, 
but  I  personally  overheard  the  assertion  of  an  educated 
American,  that  this  supposed  or  apparent  fraud  proved 
to  his  satisfaction  the  rottenness  of  the  Prussian  govern- 
ment. 


AMERICAN  SUPERIORITY  291 

American  coins  are  almost  of  pure  silver  an4  conse- 
quently small  in  size  compared  with  pieces  of  similar 
values  of  other  nations.  Dimes  and  reals  are  no  larger 
than  silvergroschen.  Quarters  resemble  your  (now  no- 
torious) half  gulden.  Half  dollars  are  as  large  as,  and 
thicker  than  the  large  Prussian "  gulden,  and  the  whole 
dollar  is  of  the  size  of  an  old  Prussian  thaler.  Spanish 
coins  are  old  and  uncomely. 

Gold  coins.  I  shall  pass  the  half  and  quarter-dollar 
pieces,  which  are  too  small  to  be  practicable  and  are  gen- 
erally looked  upon  as  curiosities.    Even  the 

I.    Dollar  coins  are  only  of  the  size  of  half  a  sgr. 

IL  Quarter  Eagles— 2^2  dollars— 3  thaler  16  sgr.  3 
pfg. 

III.  Half  Eagles — 5  dollars— 7  thaler  2  sgr.  6  pfg. 

IV.  Eagles— 10  dollars— 14  thaler  5  sgr. 

V.  Double  Eagles— 20  dollars— 28  thaler  10  sgr. 
Tliese  are  all  the  American    denominations    of    gold 

coins,  but  fhere  is  much  foreign  gold  in  circulation, 
though  not  in  as  large  quantities  as  there  is  of  silver.  I 
shall  mention  the  most  frequently  met  gold  coins:  Such 
as  pass  for 

VI.  Tivo  Dollars — two  thaler  20  sgr.  Prussian. 
Spanish  Eight  Ounce— Wo  thaler  27  sgr.  and  which 

appear  mostly  in  old  Spanish,  Mexican,  Peruvian  and 
Chilean  coinage. 

VII.  Four  Dollars— fLve  thaler  20  sgr,  Prussian. 

1.  French  Twenty  Francs— five  thaler  10  sgr. 

2.  Dutch  Ten  Florins— five  thaler  18  sgr. 

3.  Danish  Christian  d'or — five  thaler  20  sgr.,  rare. 

4.  Hanoverian  Predrics  d'or— same. 

5.  Prussian  Fredrics  d'or— same. 

6.  Spanish  Quarter  Ounce — frequent. 

VIII.  Eight  Dollars— e\ey en  thaler  10  sgr. 
Spanish  Half  Ounces. 

Hanoverian,  and  Prussian  Double  Fredrics  d'or,  rare. 

IX.  Sixteen  Dollars — twenty-two  thaler  20  sgr.  Prus- 
sian. 

Ounces   only   of   old   Spanish   and   Peruvian   coinage 
are  quite  rare. 


292  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

X.  Fifty  Dollar  pieces— seventy  thaler  25  sgr,  Pruss. 
Though  this  appears  to  be  an  enormous  value  for  one 
single  coin,  it  is  seen  quite  often.  These  are  really  pri- 
vate coins  of  pure  California  gold,  i.  e.  only  one  hundred 
and  sixteen  of  copper  and  eight  hundred  eighty-four 
parts  of  gold.  These  valuable  coins  are  of  the  size  of  two- 
thaler  pieces  but  instead  of  being  round,  they  are  octa- 
gon-shaped. There  is  one  peculiarity  about  these  "slugs" 
as  Calif omians  call  them;  the  gold  is  said  to  be  softer 
than  usual,  so  it  often  happens  that  because  of  wear,  the 
value  gradually  decreases  two,  three  or  more  dollars. 
Nevertheless  I  should  not  mind  possessing  a  pocketful. 


LETTEE  NO.  XI 


The  24tli  of  November,  1853 
Christmas  is  nigh;  Do  you  remember  how  Marie  and 
I,  as  children,  cut  slips  of  paper  about  this  time,  by  means 
of  which  we  managed  to  keep  close  count  of  the  days 
until  that  great  and  glorious  feast-day  arrived,  on  which 
Christopher  would  drive  up  with  the  sleigh  to  take  us 
upon  the  holiday  trip  to  grandpa's  at  Bartensteinf  Do 
you  remember,  how  every  night  one  of  those  slips  would 
be  burnt  with  great  solemnity  and  how  we  rejoiced,  when 
the  number  decreased  to  twenty,  fifteen  or  ten,  now  but 
one  more  week,  six,  five,  four  or  three  days,  at  last  the 
day  after  to-morrow,  then  to-morrow!  Then!!— Tempora 
mutantur  et  nos  mutamur  in  illis!  Yes,  times  change 
and  we  change  with  them!  And  how  wonderful  the 
change ! 

Little  Marie  has  grown  into  maidenhood;  the  then 
careless  child  stands  now  on  the  eve  of  that  great  day 
when  she  will  take  upon  herself  the  great  duties  of  a 
household  and  the  still  more  serious  and  sacred  duties 
of  a  faithful  wife.  May  God  bless  you,  sister!  The  lit- 
tle Franz  has  grown  too  and  gone  away  into  the  wide, 
cheerless  world!  He  has  become  acquainted  with  the 
many  hardships  of  life,  and  manifold  reverses  have  made 
of  the  tender-hearted  boy  a  man,  hardened  by  experi- 
ences. Yes,  hardened  is  the  right  word,  for  I  have  be- 
come hardened  by  strenuous  labor  for  daily  bread.  As 
once  the  boy  counted  with  child-like  glee  the  days  when 
school  would  close  for  a  golden  vacation  of  four  long 
weeks,  so  counts  now  the  man  the  remaining  days  of  the 
month,  at  the  end  of  which  he  may  pocket  his  few  hard 
earned  dollars.  Work-day  after  work-day,  months, 
years,  a  long  chain  of  work-days,  no  vacation,  scarcely  a 

393 


294  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEX  GATE 

holiday  for  him!  The  poor  man's  life  has  but  one  vaca- 
tion, when  all  seems  ended,  when  men  in  holiday  attire 
sink  his  body  five  or  six  feet  deep  into  mother  earth, 
then  covering  his  cofiBn  with  cold,  unsympathetic  ground. 
But  there  at  least,  is  a  time  of  rejoicing  for  the  poor 
man,  though  he  cannot,  as  in  his  childhood  days,  count 
the  moments  by  paper-slips.  Providence  prefers  to  sur- 
prise him,  by  extinguishing  the  poor,  sick,  work-worn 
life  at  an  unexpected  hour. 

I  am  a  fool,  I  know,  a  dangerous,  maddened,  relentless 
fool,  who  worries  himself  and  others,  all  of  which  I  know, 
but  cannot  help  that  I  was  bom  for  a  dark  existence. 
Do  you  still  remember,  how  we  children  surrounded  the 
Christmas  tree,  to  watch  the  candles  go  out  one  after 
another,  up  to  the  large  life-light  on  the  top  of  the  tree? 
The  present,  earnest  life  has  interpreted  for  me  this  par- 
able of  the  big  Christmas  candle.  I  still  look  toward  the 
candle  of  hope.  To-day  it  burns  rather  dimly,  though 
not  so  very  low,  not  yet  nearing  the  end,  as  it  appeared 
a  year  ago.  Yes,  this  last  comparison  makes  me  see 
tilings  brighter  but,  shall  I  ever  live  to  see  it  shine  se- 
renely? Though  I  be  but  a  poor  fool,  I  am  not  far  enough 
gone,  to  grow  melancholy  over  what  may  or  may  not  be 
in  store  for  me  in  years  to  come.  We  poor  pygmies  do 
not  know  what  even  the  next  morning  may  bring  us! 
Meanvrhile  I  shall  do  my  duty,  as  and  wherever  I  see  it, 
and  do  it  earnestly  and  courageously  as  becomes  a  man, 
who  forges  his  own  fate  and  ever^^thing  will  turn  out  well. 

It  is  now  time  to  withdraw  in  Morpheus'  amis;  or, 
prosaically  expressed,  I  shall  roll  my  tired  body  in  the 
blankets  and  go  to  sleep.  Have  amused  myself  this  af- 
ternoon by  planing  five  dozen  i)ickets— six  feet  each— 
for  a  garden  fence.  This  occupation  tired  me  the  more, 
as  the  wood  used  had  been  exposed  to  an  uninterrupted 
eight-day  California  downpour  of  winter  rain.  I  shall 
therefore  not  delay  my  night's  rest.  Once  more:  Good 
night— good  night! 


REMINISCENCES  295 

San  Francisco,  Dec.  29tli,  '53. 

*'Ye,  Gods!  Tliat  boy  must  have  been  in  a  trance,  if 
he  has  not  awakened  before  the  end  of  the  year  suffi- 
ciently to  continue  his  letter  to  us!"  This  or  similar 
words  I  hear  my  dear  father  murmur,  when  he  catches 
sight  of  the  last  date.  Well,  I  did  not  sleep  longer 
nor  ofteuer  than  usual  since  the  twenty-fourth  of  No- 
vember, the  date  of  my  last  writing  but,  I  worked  hard 
and  lost  my  position  at  Etonbleau,  which  kept  me  search- 
ing for  another ;  I  worked  again.  To  make  the  long  story 
short,  I  could  not  find  time  to  have  a  quiet  chat  with  you 
and,  to  be  honest,  would  not  have  done  so  to-night,  if  the 
fact  that  you  all  are  waiting  for  my  letter,  did  not  weigh 
heavily  upon  my  conscience.  It  has  been  so  long  since 
you  heard  from  me.  Etonbleau  found  business  too  dull 
and  gave  up  the  hotel,  preferring  the  life  of  a  gentleman 
of  leisure  to  the  woiTies  of  a  hotelkeeper  with  doubtful 
patronage.  I  consequently  severed  my  connection  with 
liim  at  the-  middle  of  the  month.  I  can  truthfully  say 
that  we  parted  in  excellent  harmony  and  as  soon  as  I 
can  manage  it,  I  shall  follow  his  hearty  invitation  to 
visit  him. 

Thus  did  it  happen  that  I  became  again  a  passenger  on 
a  little  steamer  bound  for  San  Francisco— an  unemployed 
breadwinner.  It  was  on  the  14th  of  December,  a  beauti- 
ful morning  and  the  dark-blue  surface  of  the  bay  as 
smooth  as  a  mirror;  the  many  white  sails  of  the  myriads 
of  coasters  were  reflected  in  the  sun-kissed  flood  which 
our  little  steam-boat  rapidly  fun'owed  through.  Not  a 
breeze  disturbed  the  early  morning  meditation  of  Mother 
Nature.  The  sun  was  slowly  lifting  the  foggy  veil  from 
the  magnificent  mountain  view  which  encircles  the  bay 
of  San  Francisco.  This  panorama  is  at  once  imposing 
and  exceedingly  attractive;  the  early  foliage  and  ver- 
dure which  the  first  rain  of  winter  had  seemingly  coaxed 
out,  assembled  a  new  garb,  becoming  and  enchanting. 
The  air  was  agreeably  cool  and  filled  with  an  aroma  pe- 
culiar to  the  coast  of  the  Pacific.  San  Francisco  seemed 
to  enjoy  the  magnificence  of  her  youthful  beauty,  and 


296  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  happy  sun  rays  sjDarkled  playfully  in  the  reflecting 
mirrors  of  the  many  windows  and  in  the  terraces  of  the 
zinc  roofs.    It  was  a  beautiful  morning. 

How  differently  did  I  look  upon  everything  a  year 
ago,  when  I  arrived  here  at  night  during  a  downpouring 
rain,  deathly  sick,  penniless  and  without  hope  for  work? 

This  time,  I  was  positive  that  success  would  accompany 
me  on  my  search  for  work,  and,  bless  your  heart!  1  was 
not  disajDpointed,  as  the  very  next  day  found  me  at  work 
as — a  painter!  A  friend  of  mine,  Edward  Eaabe  of 
Posen,  has  settled  here  as  painter  and  paper-hanger  and 
has  done  a  good  business  during  the  last  year.  He  re- 
ceived me  kindly  and  offered  me  work  and  pay.  Of 
course,  this  being  winter-time,  he  could  not  offer  me  per- 
manent work  as  he  himself  is  idle  at  times  and  cannot 
agree  to  engage  a  helper  except  by  the  day.  So  far  I 
have  been  in  luck,  as  work  has  been  rather  steady,  not- 
withstanding the  holidays;  if  there  should  be  a  day  now 
and  then,  when  I  shall  have  to  lay  idle,  I  do  not  worry 
as  there  is  enough  forthcoming  to  cover  expenses,  with- 
out living  off  my  own  fat.  My  savings  at  Etonbleau 
amounted  to  about  seventy  dollars  with  no  more  debts  to 
my  name.    Eaabe  pays  me  three  dollars  a  day. 

As  you  will  readily  understand,  I  have  to  learn  mary 
a  knack,  and  "the  tricks  of  the  trade,"  so  that,  if  I  can 
only  make  my  expenses,  I  shall  gladly  stay  at  Eaabe 's 
through  the  winter.  In  summer  time  there  is  always 
a  scarcity  of  painters  and  no  one  needs  to  worry.  Eaabe 
is  a  good,  quiet  and  temperate  fellow  so  that  I  cannot 
hope  for  a  better  ''boss." 

Am  I  now  to  waste  time,  ink  and  paper  to  tell  you  in 
fine  words  and  well  calculated  phrases,  how  earnestly 
and  heartily  my  wishes  for  your  future  health  and  happi- 
ness are,  which  flash  with  lightning  speed  through  space 
to  greet  you  on  the  New  Year  mom?    Truly  not! 

My  love  for  you  remains  the  same,  from  year  to  year, 
from  hour  to  hour,  from  minute  to  minute.  I  cannot 
promise  you  greater  affection  than  hitherto  shown  for,  if 
it  had  been  possible  for  me  to  increase  my  love  and  de- 


REMINISCENCES  297 

votion  to  you,  it  would  have  occurred  long  ago.  And 
what  is  true  of  me,  is  true  of  you.  Your  love,  so  tender, 
so  unwavering,  so  immense,  remains  unchanged.  There 
have  been  moments,  when  I  doubted  the  sufficiency  of  my 
own  love  for  you,  but  yours !  I  never  questioned  and  never 
shall !  I  therefore  do  not  wish  for  a  renewal  of  your  love, 
which  I  know  will  accompany  me  beyond  the  grave  and 
I  am  unable  to  make  new  wishes  for  I  love  you  beyond 
measure. 

If  you  were  to  ask  of  me  a  well-worded  letter  of  New 
Year's  congratulations  to  one  or  the  other  Privy  Coun- 
sellor, I  should  gladly  send  you  ten  instead  of  one,  well- 
written  and  well-constructed  according  to  the  latest  dic- 
tates of  grammar  and  rhetoric  not  to  mention  a  superb 
orthography  but,  when  there  is  a  question  of  such  a  letter 
to  you,  dear  parents,  or  to  you,  my  only  sister — my  eyes 
seem  veiled,  the  writing  appears  crooked,  and  of  orthog- 
raphy or  rhetoric  we  had  better  not  speak.  I  could 
never  accomplish  such  a  task.  Let  it  suffice,  that  I  love 
you! 

Farewell,  a  thousand  times! 
(Signed)  FKANZ  LECOUVREUR. 

The  30th  P.  M. 
Have  just  accepted  an  engagement  at  J.  Jensen's,  San 
Jose,  or  Santa  Clara.    My  salary  as  steward  will  be  sixty 
dollars  a  month  and  travelling  expense.    I  shall  leave  to- 
morrow morning.  F.  L. 


From  the  Diaey. 

December  31st,  1853. 
One  of  our  many  proverbs  in  the  Fatherland  teaches  us 
that:  "All  is  well,  that  ends  well!"  I  wonder  whether 
this  will  come  to  pass  in  my  case  and  as  regards  this  lat- 
ter-day venture  in  the  old  year  of  eighteen  hundred  and 
fifty-three,  which  has  really  been  pretty  good  to  me. 


298  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Will  my  trip  be  a  successful  one?    Nous  le  verrons.    AVe 
shall  see. 

Nine  o'clock  saw  me  on  board  of  the  little  steamer 
**Guadaloupe,"  which  took  in  passengers  and  freight  at 
Long  wharf.  They  charged  me  six  dollars  for  this  trip. 
With  the  exception  of  a  slight  collision  with  a  whaling- 
vessel,  our  voyage  was  delightful,  as  the  coast  offers  a 
variety  of  scenery,  which  seems  unequalled  elsewhere. 
Tlie  mountains  reach  a  height  of  about  four  thousand 
feet  and  are  plentifully  covered  with  fir  trees  of  various 
kinds.  We  reached  Alviso  about  three  o'clock  and  soon 
arrived  at  San  Jose,  where  old  sycamore  trees  and  wil- 
lows are  plentiful.  On  my  arrival  I  am  infonned  that  the 
vacancy  which  I  expect  to  fill  is  in  the  town  of  Santa 
CiTiz,  whither  I  shall  proceed  on  January  the  second.  As 
I  do  not  propose  to  hunt  for  adventures  in  a  strange 
place  and  as  the  company  gathered  in  the  bar-room  of 
the  hotel  does  not  attract  me,  I  have  retired  into  my  as- 
signed room  and  am  dreaming  of  ''sylvester-night"  at 
home! 

Januaiy  1st,  1854. 
San  Jos^  is  one  of  the  oldest  Califoraia  settlemeiits, 
and  existed  long  before  the  gold-fever  appeared.  Its  mis- 
sion contributed  largely  to  its  importance  and  the  agi'i- 
cultural  possibilities  assure  a  lasting  resource.  The  poj)- 
ulation  consists  largely  of  Mexicans  and  California  In- 
dians, often  mixed-breeds,  which  the  eye  of  the  northern 
immigrant  can  hardly  distinguish.  One  thing  strikes  me 
and  would  strike  the  most  careless  observer:  the  untidi- 
ness and  actual  filtli,  with  which  the  lower  classes  of  these 
people  surround  themselves.  But  I  suppose  there  will 
be  plenty  of  chances  for  me  hereafter  to  dwell  upon  just 
such  descriptions.  There  is  a  magnificent  variety  of  wild- 
flowers  in  this  part  of  the  country  and  when  one  sees  the 
fantastically  dressed  natives  roam  lazily  about  among 
nature's  choicest  productions,  the  sight  is  attractive  in- 
deed. 


REMINISCENCES  399 

January  the  2nd,  1854. 

Have  been  on  tlie  road  since  three  o'clock  this  morn- 
ing and  I  assure  you  that  any  description  one  may  read 
of  adventurous  stage-coach  drives  through  dangerous 
forests  of  Italy  or  Hungary  is  tame,  comx^ared  with  my 
latest  experience.  While  the  panorama  which  opened 
and  closed  before  our  eyes  occasionally  was  truly  grand 
and  surpassed  anything  I  had  ever  seen,  the  drive  up  and 
down  the  narrow  roads  along  the  mountain  sides  were 
often  so  frightfully  unsafe  that  every  step  of  a  horse's 
foot  sent  a  chill  through  my  body.  The  fact  that  we  hap- 
pened to  be  in  the  rainy  season,  which  makes  the  road 
more  slippery  than  usual,  did  not  contribute  to  my  com- 
fort. At  last  we  reached  the  long-spoken-of  road  which 
is  about  six  miles  in  length  and,  passing  the  river  San 
Bonito  and  its  tributaries  here  and  there,  leads  us 
straight  to  the  Mission  of  San  Juan. 

These  missions  all  look  alike  to  me.  The  church  is  in 
ruins,  with  uncommonly  thick  adobe  walls  and  tile  roof — 
and  right  close  by  is  the  church-yard,  likewise  surround- 
ed by  thick  adobe  walls.  The  residences  of  the  monks, 
who  generally  live  in  barracks,  built  in  the  same  style  as 
the  Mission  churches,  are  very  simple  and  give  the  whole 
a  rather  mediaeval  appearance.  It  will  seem  odd  to  every 
stranger  that  these  structures  have  windows  without 
panes  of  glass,  which,  it  is  said,  are  enormously  high- 
priced  in  this  countiy  and  were  evidently  not  at  all  to  be 
had  when  the  good  mission-fathers  brought  civilization 
to  the  natives.  All  the  missions  I  have  seen  sO'  far:  the 
Dolores,  Santa  Clara  and  San  Juan  Bantista,  are  built  on 
the  same  plan.  After  a  good  rest  we  prepared  for  an- 
other long  ride,  which  proved  to  be  worse  than  the  first 
part  of  the  trip,  as  the  road  was  in  places  so  rocky  and 
mountainous  that  I  expected  any  moment  to  have  my 
ribs  broken  or  dislocated.  "Whenever  the  thought  of  my 
own  safety  would  permit  it,  I  drank  in  the  magnificent 
air  from  the  virgin  forests  which  beckoned  us  to  stay. 
Oh!  it  was  a  glorious  drive  and  when  sunset  came  we 
were  approaching  what  I  first  had  taken  for  my  new 


300    EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

abode,  but  wliicli  proved  to  be  Watsonville,  the  home  of 
friend  Griinhagen,  now  Harry  Jackson,  to  whom  I  paid 
a  flying  visit.  Again  we  went  on  through  the  beautiful 
Pajaro  Valley,  entertained  by  the  songs  of  countless  birds 
and  reptiles,  with  here  and  there  the  roar  of  a  disturbed 
mountain  lion  or  the  danger  signal  of  a  fleeing  coyote, 
whose  bark  resembles  that  of  a  wolf.  The  evening  is 
clear  and  the  parting  rays  of  the  setting  sun  allow  us  now 
and  then  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  Pacific  ocean  near 
Santa  Cruz.  Soon  the  moonlight  night  with  the  millions 
of  twinkling  stars  prepared  us  a  feast  such  as  one  can 
only  witness  in  the  ''Wild  West."  To  express  the  de- 
gree of  my  rapture,  be  it  said  that  I  forgot  all  about  my 
aching  bones,  to  pay  homage  to  God  and  Nature. 

January  3d-15th,  1854. 

My  position  as  head-waiter  was  of  short  duration,  as 
Madam  Jensen,  the  ruling  spirit  of  the  house,  proved 
a  veritable  Berlin  dragon,  with  whom  no  employee  can 
live  in  peace  and  one  after  another  leaves  her  house  with- 
out getting  a  cent  of  pay.  When  at  last  she  made  me 
work  from  three  in  the  morning  till  twelve  at  night  I  drew 
the  line  and  quit,  after  vainly  trying  to  make  her  refund 
my  traveling  expenses,  not  to  speak  of  the  wages  due  me. 
Robbed  by  a  woman,  a  Berlin  woman— I  shall  remember 
this  experience. 

After  visiting  Griinhagen  on  my  return  trip,  I  decided 
to  take  the  water-route  for  the  sake  of  saving  expense, 
as  my  funds  have  dwindled  down  to  almost  nothing. 

January  31st,  1854. 
Griinhagen  treated  me  well.  As  I  have  an  opportunity 
to  get  a  low  rate  to  San  P^rancisco  on  the  little  schooner 
"Sarah  Lavinia,"  I  decided  to  ship  in  her.  The  weather 
looks  threatening  and  even  the  Captain  seems  to  doubt 
whether  everything  will  go  smoothly.  It  happens  that 
the  ferry-boat  on  which  he  embarks  cannot  take  me  along 
but  after  the  Captain  is  safely  on  board,  it  returns  after 
me.    AVliile  just  about  to  enter,  the  boatman  points  to  the 


REMINISCENCES  301 

* '  Sarah  Lavinia, ' '  which  is  dragging  her  anchor,  and  rap- 
idly drifting  toward  Monterey.  A  thick,  heavy  fog  envel- 
oped her  and  sealed  her  fate.  The  next  morning  brought 
the  sad  news  of  her  complete  wreck,  not  a  life  saved! 
How  do  I  feel?    Do  not  ask. 

February  6th,  1854. 

After  recovering  from  the  shock  which  my  latest  expe- 
rience had  given  me,  I  resolved  to  try  my  luck  again. 
This  time  a  schooner,  '^Francisca,"  Capt.  Miller,  bound 
for  San  Francisco,  will  receive  me  as  a  passenger.  The 
weather  is  not  at  all  what  I  should  wish  it  to  be,  but  one 
cannot  have  it  made  to  order.  I  frankly  confess  that  the 
fate  of  the  "Sarah  Lavinia"  has  rather  benumbed  my 
courage;  but  as  I  tried  to  persuade  myself  that  it  is  the 
evident  will  of  Providence  that  I  should  get  to  my  desti- 
nation alive,  I  braced  up  for  the  rough  outlook.  And 
rough  it  certainly  was,  but  not  till  midnight  did  the  crew 
really  think  of  danger,  which  was  averted  by  the  skillful 
handling  of  sails  and  rudder— captain  and  crew  sharing 
the  merit  evenly.  Sunrise  found  us  only  near  Cape  Aiio- 
nuevo.  All  goes  well ;  we  come  about  four  o  'clock  in  the 
afternoon  within  sight  of  Cape  Bonita,  the  reefs  of  which 
we  hope  to  quietly  avoids  as  the  wind,  though  strong,  has 
been  favorable  during  the  day.  Suddenly  a  dead  calm 
sets  in,  the  sails  flap  to  and  fro,  then,  merciful  Heaven,  a 
storm  from  the  dreaded  South  West  sets  in,  and— the 
fog,  the  fog! 

My  thoughts  were  of  life,  death  and  hereafter.  The 
heroic  efforts  of  Captain  Miller  and  his  noble  crew  will 
ever  remain  in  my  memory.  Again  and  again  we  ap- 
proached the  reefs,  and  as  if  by  miraculous  interposition 
we  escaped  seemingly  certain  destruction.  A  last  effort 
was  made  to  force  obedience  to  man's  skill  from  the  roar- 
ing wind  and  waves.  Every  available  sail  was  set,  the 
schooner  was  laid  completely  on  one  side,  while  the  gale 
blew  us  fiercely  toward  the  dangerous  rocks.  One  single 
rope  broken  would  now  mean  death,  but  once  more  Prov- 
idence had  pity  on  us  in  our  straggle  and  the  danger  was 


302  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

narrowly  passed,  whilst  I  was  watching  the  escape  along- 
side the  man  at  the  helm.  Cape  Bonita  is  a  large,  pointed 
rock  around  which  the  wild  breakers  play  their  danger- 
ous game  among  the  reefs  which  the  falling  debris  of 
centuries  have  wrought.  We  had  passed  the  danger,  I 
thought,  and  I  went  below  to  light  a  cigar,  when  I  was 
nearly  prostrated  by  a  terrific  noise,  resembling  a  cannon- 
shot,  which  brought  me  instantly  on  deck  again.  Wliat 
I  beheld  can  only  be  realized  by  one  who  has  gone 
through  similar  experiences.  Our  vessel  was  a  wreck 
— a  mass  of  splinters  from  the  broken  masts  and  yards, 
fragments  of  sails  strewn  about  the  deck  or  floating  al- 
ready in  mid-ocean— this  was  the  sight  which  met  my  eye. 
I  stood  as  if  paralyzed!  Had  this  occurred  five  minutes 
sooner,  we  would  have  met  our  death  unconditionally, 
but  as  we  had  already  approached  the  Golden  Gate,  our 
perilous  condition  had  been  signaled  to  San  Francisco  bj^ 
some  one  from  shore  before  we  had  quite  recovered  from 
the  shock.  While  we  were  awaiting  help  from  San  Fran- 
cisco a  clipper  entered  the  Gate  and  at  once  offered  as- 
sistance which  was  gladly  accepted.  Thus  ends  the 
journey  on  the  "Francisca,"  Capt.  Miller,  whose  heroic 
deeds  I  shall  not  soon  forget. 

June  10th,  1854. 
I  have  been  working  with  Raabe  ever  since  my  return 
to  San  Francisco  and  have  averaged  about  sixty-five  dol- 
lars a  month.  I  have  heard  from  home  and  have  just  an- 
swered Marie's  wedding  announcement.  May  she  be 
happy,  for  she  deserves  it. 


LETTER  NO.  XH 


San  Francisco,  October  12,  1854. 
My  Dearly  Beloved  Parents : — Week  after  week  passes 
without  bringing  me,  what  I  desire  most,  news  from  you. 
It  is  now  more  than  three  months  since  I  received  your 
last  letter.  No  change  has  taken  place  in  my  way  of  liv- 
ing since  I  wrote  to  you  last,  and  I  am,  to  my  own  sur- 
prise, still  following  the  same  trade— painting,  without 
bettering  my  condition,  except  perfecting  myself  in  the 
business.  As  to  my  health,  I  have  no  reason  to  complain. 
As  far  as  social  intercourse  is  concerned,  I  keep  company 
with  myself  and  wonder  sometimes  that  I  do  not  feel 
more  lonesome,  but  then  I  might  feel  more  lonesome  if  I 
were  to  associate  with  others.  During  my  idle  hours  I 
walk,  and  of  all  places  I  prefer  a  quiet  nook  at  the  beach. 
There,  far  from  the  noise  and  the  strife  of  God's  images, 
stretcliing  myself  upon  the  sand  in  the  shade  of  some 
rock,  I  let  my  thoughts  roam  wherever  they  please  and 
let  the  waves  of  the  Pacific  sing  to  me  the  old,  old  song, 
which  fits  my  thoughts  so  well!  Do  not  imagine  me,  how- 
ever, to  be  a  complete  anchoret,  such  as  are  found  among 
the  Hindoos  and  early  Christians,  who  retired  for  solitude 
to  the  wilderness,  living  in  hovels  and  caves.  As  far  as 
outward  appearance  is  concerned,  I  am  on  excellent  terms 
with  all  persons  with  whom  chance  brings  me,  but  I  have 
no  desire  to  become  in  the  least  degree  intimate  with  any- 
one. I  know  myself  too  well,  and  this  is  the  result  of  it.  I 
know  what  the  verdict  of  sensible  people  would  be  were 
I  to  tell  them  of  my  troubles  and  my  anxieties.  How 
ridiculous,  how  silly  I  would  appear  in  their  eyes!  This 
I  know  to  be  true,  because  other  sentimental  dreamers, 
such  as  I  (but  who  have  not  sense  enough  to  conceal  their 
weak  sentimentality)  have  always  challenged  my  satire, 

303 


304  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEX  GATE 

and  the  most  bitter  sarcasm  on  my  part,  even  when  I 
knew  my  own  weakness,  and  when  nobody  had  to  tell  me 
that  I  saw  motes  in  the  eyes  of  others  and  failed  to  recog- 
nize the  beam  in  my  own. 

I  had  a  very  pleasant  surprise  the  other  day,  one— if 
not  as  great  gs  when  I  receive  letters  from  you,  at  least 
somewhat  resembling  it.  I  am  sure  you  will  never  guess 
what  it  was.  I  got  hold  of  two  copies  of  the  "Konigsber- 
ger  Hartung'sche  Zeituug"  of  June  the  thirtieth  and 
July  the  eleventh,  which  an  acquaintance  had  received 
from  relatives  in  that  city.  And  how  I  read  them  and 
read  them  again!  Not  a  word  was  there  in  them  but 
awakened  in  me  either  pleasant  or  sad  recollections,  and 
not  a  word  did  I  allow  to  escape  me  from  the  beginning 
to  the  end.  No  one,  in  the  whole  of  East  Prussia,  could 
have  read  these  two  numbers  more  attentively  than  I 
have  read  them  here.  From  the  political  news  down  to 
the  very  signature  of  the  editor  not  a  single  letter  escaped 
me.  And  what  was  there  that  did  not  bring  my  old  home 
vividly  before  my  mind!  And  what  a  cloud  of  memories 
arose  within  me  with  every  word  I  read.  There  was  the 
announcement  of  an  auction  at  Stockhausen's,  reminding 
me  of  my  desk  in  Malmros'  office— I  wonder  who  may  be 
at  it  now?— and  of  the  time  when  I  ran  as  an  apprentice 
with  samples  of  grain  from  one  warehouse  to  another. 
Then  came  Spitznik  with  "Plaster  of  Paris  for  sale,"  and 
close  by  I  read  all  about  "Friiuleinhof,"  and  saw  myself 
at  play  there  as  a  little  fellow  with  Dave  and  Emil.  Here 
I  read  in  large  letters:  J.  Wolfrath,  linen  goods— 
Schmiedestrasse— opposite  the  Courthouse— and  at  once 
I  saw  him  before  me  with  his  round,  good-natured  face 
and  his  flaxen  hair  surrounded  by  the  whole  "Society  of 
Clerks,"  which  brings  back  to  my  mind  our  balls,  with 
myself  as  vice-president  and  committeeman  in  dress  coat 
and  kid  gloves.  And  there  is  Laube,  my  comrade  of  the 
City  Guards,  who  volunteered  at  the  festival  of  the  Evlan 
Rifle  Club;  and  does  he  not  remind  me  of  sentry  duty, 
of  patrol  duty  and  of  parade?  Koesting  has  been  trans- 
ferred from  Tapian  to  Rastenburg;   old  Leitmiiller  is 


A  FOURTEEN- YEAR  PERIOD  305 

dead  and  so  is  Wiersbitzkie 's  little  daughter.  Tlien  I 
read  of  the  excursion  of  a  club  to  Arnan  and  how  nicely 
they  were  caught  in  a  rainstorm.  I  saw  the  old 
**Schwalbe"  advertised  for  an  excursion  to  Tapian;  that 
AVagner  is  still  giving  concerts  and  that  Eferpf  has  re- 
turned. I  also  read  that  the  rose  festival  of  the  Ger- 
man Club  had  to  be  postponed  on  account  of  the  inclem- 
ency of  the  weather  and  that  reminded  me  of  the  Borsen- 
garten  and  of  the  many  quiet,  pleasant  evenings  I  spenc 
there. 

You  can  not  realize  how  one  who  has  been  away  from 
home  three  years  and  a  half  as  I  have  been  longs  to  see 
the  ''dear  old  home  paper."  I  actually  devoured  the 
contents  of  the  Hartung'sche. 

Olias,  who  spent  six  days  here  a  few  weeks  ago,  is 
back  again  trying  to  regain  his  health,  which  life  in  the 
Long  Bar  mines  has  badly  shattered.  He  too  is  tired  of 
mining  and  wants  to  give  it  up  completely.  I  am  not  at 
all  surprised.  Nearly  all  the  money  he  had  saved  up  till 
last  spring— and  he  had  been  rather  successful— went  for 
medical  assistance  during  his  illness ;  and  sick,  as  he  still 
is,  he  cannot  see  how  it  will  be  possible  for  him  to  regain 
what  he  has  lost  by  making  three  or  four  dollars  a  day. 
His  intention  is  to  stay  here  for  the  present  and  to  find 
a  suitable  position,  if  possible.  Should  he  not  succeed 
in  that  he  will  leave  California  and  return  home  while  he 
still  has  the  means  to  do  so.  I  hear  that  Emil  Boettcher 
is  doing  well  at  Papetee,  Society  Islands. 

Two  months  ago  there  arrived  in  our  harbor  an  old  ac- 
quaintance of  mine  from  Konigsberg,  the  schooner  ' '  Ex- 
pedition," Capt.  Mueller.  Though  rigged  up  as  a  brig 
and  sailing  under  the  Hawaiian  flag,  I  recognized  her  the 
moment  I  saw  her.  I  remember  Mueller  from  the  time  he 
commanded  the  "Wiedersehen,"  another  ship  of  Laub- 
meyer's,  and  I  am  very  sorry  that  I  could  never  find  him 
on  board,  though  he  had  to  remain  here  quite  a  while,  in 
order  to  sell  the  cargo  of  oranges  he  had  brought  from 
Tahiti.  I  expect  Laubmeyer  will  shed  tears  when  he  re- 
ceives the  account  of  that  transaction.    The  local  market 

20 


306  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

was  so  overstocked  with  oranges  this  summer  that  the 
very  best  of  them  could  almost  be  had  for  the  asking. 
What  nonsense  to  send  a  vessel  like  the  "Expedition" 
out  here  with  a  cargo  of  fruit  which  this  country  pro- 
duces in  over-abundance.  It  took  Mueller  fifty-eight  days 
from  Tahiti  here,  while  our  American  coasters  generally 
make  the  trip  in  thirty  days,  but  the  regular  packets — 
and  they  are  all  fine  sailing  vessels,  schooners  after  clip- 
per model— will  make  the  run  in  twent}^  days,  which 
means  about  one-third  the  time  that  it  took  Mueller. 
Poor  fellow,  he  will  give  old  Laubmeyer  a  few  practical 
hints  on  modem  navigation  that  will  open  his  eyes  or 
paralyze  him  for  life. 

The  Prussian  flag  is  flying  in  port  just  now,  which  I 
had  not  seen  since  I  left  Hamburg.  It  belongs  to  the 
brig  "Titania,"  Capt.  Voss,  from  Stettin. 

I  would  very  much  like  to  keep  you  posted  on  some 
public  matters  but  I  have  not  time  to  give  you  the  news 
of  the  day.  This,  I  know,  should  not  be  neglected,  as  it 
is  only  by  constant  truthful  details  that  you  could  better 
learn  to  understand  American  conditions  and  modes  of 
living;  for  afl'airs  run  so  very  differently  in  the  Old 
World.  It  is  true,  there  are  two  German  newspapers 
published  in  San  Francisco,  but  to  send  them  to  you 
would  certainly  not  accomplish  the  object  I  have  in  view, 
as  both  are  miserable  sheets,  published  as  organs  of 
political  cliques  and  edited  by  men  who  have  not  even 
a  fair  knowledge  of  the  language  in  which  they  write, 
and  who  would  do  better  to  take  some  lessons  in  the 
grammar  of  their  own  mother  tongue  before  they  at- 
tempt to  write  for  the  public.  If  you  understood  Eng- 
lish I  should  send  you  the  "steamer  edition"  of  one  of 
our  better  American  papers  now  and  then.  This  edition 
is  published  regularly  on  the  day  ])efore  the  mail  steam- 
ers leave  and  gives  in  a  concise  form  all  the  news  of  the 
previous  two  weeks  for  its  readers  in  the  Atlantic  states 
and  in  Europe. 

I  suppose  I  shall  have  to  send  you  one  of  the  French 
papers  from  here.    "Le  Messager"  is  published  in  such 


A  FOURTEEN- YEAR  PERIOD  307 

a  steamer  edition  and  is— if  we  overlook  its  being  very 
''Frenchy"— reliable  and  respectable.  It  may  therefore 
interest  you. 

My  love  to  all  of  you,  your 

FRANZ. 


[We  shall  now  make  a  short  review  of  the  interesting"  de- 
scription which  the  diary  furnishes,  as  there  are  unfortunately 
but  few  more  letters  preserved,  of  which  we  shall  read  later. 
Therefore  a  few  notes  in  the  form  of  a  missing  link. — Trans.] 


Diary  Notes. 


San  Francisco,  Gal.,  March  23d,  1855. 
Having  in  vain  tried  to  establish  a  well  paying  busi- 
ness for  myself,  I  resolved  to  quit  painting  and  seek 
new  pastures.  Olias  and  I  engaged  berths  on  board  of 
the  SS.  ''America,"  bound  for  San  Pedro,  a  small  port 
in  Southern  California,  whence  we  hope  to  start  for  the 
Kern  river  mines.  We  made  this  trip  without  mishap, 
unless  the  fare  charged,  which  amounted  to  thirty  dol- 
lars for  each  of  us  is  taken  in  that  way.  On  our  arrival 
at  San  Pedro,  March  the  sixth,  I  saved  five  dollars  by 
walking  twenty-five  miles  with  forty  pounds  of  baggage 
on  my  shoulders,  thus  reaching  the  city  of  Los  Angeles 
after  a  ten-hour  tramp.  We  went  to  the  United  States 
Hotel  for  the  night,  where  men  of  experience  warned 
us  not  to  risk  our  remaining  few  dollars  in  the  Kern 
river  venture.  We  took  the  hint  and  remained  in  Los 
Angeles.  My  surprise  was  great  to  meet  an  acquaint- 
ance, Wm.  Arnhold,  from  Konigsberg,  who  at  once 
offered  me  a  place  in  his  saloon,  which  I  reluctantly  ac- 
cepted as  only  my  utter  lack  of  funds  could  induce  me 
to  engage  in  that  business. 

October  10th,  1855. 
My   stay   at   Arnhold 's    lasted    but   two   months   and 
how  I  disliked  the  work,  which   brings    one   in   contact 


308  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

with  some  of  the  lowest  characters.  Naturally  I  did  not 
take  kindly  to  their  excesses  and  was  assaulted  on  two 
occasions  for  my  righteous  opposition.  Both  shots 
missed  their  mark,  but  hastened  my  leave-taking  last 
June.  Since  then  I  have  been  at  my  brushes  again, 
working  for  G oiler,  the  carriage  builder.  He  is  greatly 
pleased  with  my  work.  By  the  middle  of  July  I 
was  able  to  return  to  Olias  the  ninety  dollars  I  owed 
him,  whereupon  he  resolved  to  return  home  at  once, 
as  his  earnest  endeavors  met  with  so  little  success. 
I  wished  him  ''Godspeed."  He  tried  his  best  to  suc- 
ceed. This  day  finds  me  in  a  new  position.  Capt.  Henry 
Hancock,  county  surveyor  of  Los  Angeles,  engaged  me 
as  flagman  of  one  of  his  surveying  parties  at  sixty  dol- 
lars a  month. 

December  31st,  1855. 
The  outdoor  life  agrees  marvelously  well  with  me.  Am 
in  high  spirits,  as  Capt.  Hancock  promoted  me  to  head 
a  company  as  compass  man,  with  a  salary  of  seventy- 
five  dollars.  We  are  working  in  the  Mojave  desert  and 
swamps. 

June  30th,  1856. 
Hancock's  expedition  ended  in  January  and  with  two 
hundred  and  twenty-six  dollars  to  my  credit.  Although 
assured  of  future  employment,  I  took  once  more  to  paint- 
ing in  order  to  avoid  idleness.  At  last,  on  March  10th, 
Capt.  Hancock  sent  two  new  expeditions  to  the  Mojave 
valley,  one  of  these  headed  by  Deputy  County  Surveyor 
George  Hansen,  while  the  command  of  the  other  was 
entrusted  to  me  at  eighty-five  dollars  a  month.  We 
surveyed  the  Canada  de  Soledad  and  neighboring  val- 
leys along  the  Northeastern  foothills,  of  the  Sierra  Ne- 
vada.* Again  Capt.  Hancock  showed  his  appreciation  of 
my  work  by  raising  ray  wages  to  one  hundred  dollai's 


*Of  these  early  maps,  as  drawn  by  the  careful  hand  of  youn,? 
Lecouvreur,  one  of  the  best  known  local  surveyors,  Alfred  Street, 
assures  the  translator  that  there  is  nothing  in  the  possession  of 


A  FOURTEEN- YEAR  PERIOD  309 

which  I  thankfully  accepted.  We  finished  the  Mojav© 
work  and  surveyed  part  of  the  San  Beniardino  Valley 
near  Cocomonga,  which  was  accomplished  shortly  before 
this  diary  entiy. 

August  31st,  1856. 

Having  taken  a  few  days  of  involuntary  rest  I  chanced 
to  meet  Johann  Behn,  who  owns  a  farm  and  a  cattle 
ranch  on 

Catalina  Island, 
where  he  offers  to  employ  me  during  the  summer. 

Santa  Catalina  is  a  mountainous  and  very  romantic 
island,  about  twenty  miles  in  length,  situated  just  South 
of  San  Pedro  and  about  twenty-five  miles  from  the  main- 
land. Some  of  its  mountain  peaks  are  more  than  two 
thousand  feet  high,  I  judge,  and  the  attractiveness 
would  certainly  be  great,  were  not  the  absolute  lack  of 
fresh  well  water  a  material  drawback  for  visitors  or  set- 
tlers. Kain  is  likewise  very  scarce.  The  necessary 
drinking  water  for  man  and  beast  is  drawn  from  cisterns 
and  decidedly  disagreeable  to  the  newcomer  on  account 
of  its  salty  taste.  John  Behn  has  a  well  laid  farm  and 
a  neat  little  home  in  a  pleasant  valley  on  the  North  side 
of  the  island,  which  reminds  me  of  Valdivia,  as  it  is  cres- 
cent shaped  and  protected  by  the  capes  on  either  end. 
Small  vessels  are  perfectly  safe  within  its  realms.  Cata- 
lina has  from  afar  the  appearance  of  two  islands,  owing 
to  the  peculiar  fact  that  both  the  north  and  the  south 
end  of  the  island  have  for  miles  high  mountain  chains, 
which  fall  off  so  suddenly  that  they  resemble  a  low  sad- 
dle, the  highest  point  of  which  extends  hardly  thirty 
feet  out  of  the  water.  This  freak  of  nature  causes  the 
well  formed  little  harbor  on  the  west  side  and  a  fiinely 
protected  road  on  the  east  side.  Thos.  Whitley,  an 
American,  brother-in-law  of  Behn,  resides  here. 


the  County  Surveyor's  Office  that  surpasses  the  work  in  accuracy 
and  neatness.     No  wonder  Capt.  Hancock  raised  his  salary. 


310  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Four  of  us  started  soon  after  my  arrival  to  go  fishing 
in  earnest  and  the  plentiful  harvest  of  white  fish  and 
even  sharks  brought  satisfaction  to  all.  I  learned  to  dry 
fish  as  well  as  to  salt  and  pack  them  like  herrings;  then 
we  drew  the  oil  from  the  shark's  liver.  The  beginning 
of  August  sees  the  end  of  this  sport  and  to  be  useful  I 
volunteered  to  bum  shells,  a  new  trade  for  me,  after 
which  I  proceeded  to  excel  as  master  bricklayer  by 
building  a  new  trough  for  the  cattle. 

My  employer  settled  with  me  and  being  fifteen  dollars 
richer  I  return  to  San  Pedro.  Upon  Behn's  urgent  rec- 
ommendation I  obtained  a  clerkship  at  A.  W.  Timms  at 
seventy-five  dollars  a  month  and  board,  which  I  now 
enjoy. 

December,  1857. 
Am  still  at  Timms',  who  raised  my  salary  last  October 
to  one  hundred  a  month,  so  that  I  figure  my  credit  at 
nine  hundred  and  thirty    dollars.     Pretty    good  for  a 
clerk,  I  think. 

December,  1858. 

Eeverses  in  business,  by  which  I  barely  managed  to 
get  the  amount  due  me,  caused  me  to  leave  Timms,  who 
afterwards  sold  out  to  Goller,  his  principal  creditor. 

After  a  short  visit  to  San  Francisco  I  returned  to  Los 
Angeles,  where  Wm.  Moore  had  become  the  uncrowned 
head  of  the  county  sur\^eyor's  office— who  in  reality  was 
a  wagon  maker  by  trade.  Upon  his  request  I  surveyed 
the  Protestant  graveyard,  and  drew  a  plan  for  the  new 
water  supply  of  the  city.  I  have  done  a  little  work  for 
private  parties,  namely,  Juan  Apablasa,  0.  W.  Childs, 
John  G.  Downey,  Mateo  Keller's  Malaga  Ranch,  and 
drawn  plans  for  the  Catholic  cemetery  as  well.  Mean- 
while there  had  been  trouble  in  the  Goller  camp,  as  the 
latter  found  it  very  up-hill  work  to  run  a  commission 
and  forwarding  house  like  that  of  Timms,  especially  as 
he  himself  know  little  about  it  and  was  too  busy  at  his 
wagon  factory  to  spend  time  to  leani  the  inside  details 


A  FOURTEEN-YEAR  PERIOD  311 

of  the  business,  wliicli,  by  the  way,  had  Banning  as  a 
sharp  competitor.  Timms  had  paid  every  cent  honestly, 
and  with  Goller,  persuaded  me  to  take  the  management 
of  the  San  Pedro  house  at  one  hundred  and  twenty  dol- 
Lnrs  and  board— a  position  which  I  held  about  four 
months,  when  I  thought  it  better  to  look  about  for  a 
new  occupation— greatly  to  Goller 's  regret. 

Annaheim,  an  attractive  Gennan  settlement,  owned  by 
fifty  stockholders,  who  propose  to  have  set  out  five  hun- 
dred thousand  vines.  After  three  years  each  holder 
shall  be  entitled  to  twenty  acres  of  laud— twelve  of 
which  are  to  be  in  vineyard  with  ten  thousand  vines, 
while  the  remaining  eight  acres  are  to  be  planted  as  the 
holders  may  direct.  My  old  friend  George  Hansen,  of 
the  Mojave  sui-veying  expedition,  is  the  superintendent, 
who  engages  me  for  sixty  dollars  and  board.  There  I 
am  at  the  close  of  1858.    But  how  long? 

December,  1859. 
My  stay  at  Annaheim  was  of  short  duration  as  it  is 
too  monotonous  and  disagreeable  a  job  to  watch  a  gang 
of  Indians  and  half-breeds  all  day  long  at  the  selfsame 
field  labors,  where  the  mind  has  absolutely  nothing  to 
do.  I  left  there  toward  the  end  of  January  and  rode 
leisurely  toward  Los  Angeles.  At  Wilmington  I  met 
Banning 's  manager,  Wm.  Sanford,  who  offered  me  Thos. 
AVorkman's  place  as  first  clerk  during  the  latter 's  vaca- 
tion. Banning  paid  me  two  hundred  dollars  for  six 
week's  work.  Meanwhile  Goller  was  in  despair  again, 
and,  of  course,  I  was  his  Moses  and  took  hold  of  his 
business  again  at  little  more  than  the  last  paid  salary. 
Phineas  Banning  with  an  eye  to  monopoly  bought  out 
Goller 's  San  Pedro  venture  and  engaged  me  at  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  dollars  and  board.  With  the  exception 
of  a  month  of  absence,  I  have  been  holding  this  position 
ever  since,  though  business  demanded  a  reduction  in 
wages. 


312  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

December,  1860. 

Though  Barjning  raised  my  salary  again,  I  objected  to 
an  edict  that  went  forth  from  headquarters,  prohibiting 
every  employee  from  smoking.  This  caused  the  breach 
and  the  month  of  May  found  me  as  storekeeper  under 
the  U.  S.  quartermaster,  Capt.  W.  S.  Hancock,  at  a  sal- 
ary of  forty-five  dollars  and  rations  or  one-third  of  my 
previous  earnings.  This  really  looked  like  an  expensive 
smoke. 

Two  months  after  Bachman  &  Co.  made  me  an  offer 
that  approached  my  former  position  and  here  I  intend  to 
remain,  as  both  the  employers  and  my  duties  are  very 
congenial. 

December,  1861. 
All  went  well  until  September,  when  my  employers 
decided  to  retire  from  business.  We  parted  very  amica- 
bly and  I  re-entered  Banning 's  service.  The  business 
had  increased  so  rapidly  of  late  that  I  found  myself  soon 
in  the  midst  of  work,  earning  my  salary  more  than  ever. 
Banning  has  two  steamers  running  between  here  and 
San  Francisco,  the  discharging  and  loading  of  which 
often  kept  me  up  all  night.  The  forwarding  of  pro- 
visions for  the  barracks  were  likewise  to  be  attended  to 
very  promptly.  There  are  times  when  I  do  not  change 
clothes  once  in  three  days,  but  gladly  drop  to  sleep  any- 
where. I  had  to  give  up  my  nice  quarters  and  move  to 
an  old  storage  house  with  a  rough  board  for  a  table,  and 
use  a  bottle  for  a  candlestick  and  a  barrel  for  a  stool. 
Thus  ends  the  year  in  romantic  Wilmington.* 

December,  1862. 
Thos.  Workman,  our  bookkeeper,  two  young  assist- 
ants and  I  partake  of  Banning 's  private  table.     There 
are  also  about  twenty  men  under  my  supervision,  whose 


*During  this  year,  the  author  befriended  one  Herman  W.  Hell- 
man,  a  bright  German  youtli,  who  has  since  become  the  genial 
millionaire-president  of  the  Merchants'  National  Bank  of  Los 
Angeles. — Translator. 


A  FOURTEEN-YEAR  PERIOD  313 

duty  it  is  to  attend  to  loading  and  unloading  of  incom- 
ing vessels.  My  patience  is  at  last  rewarded,  as  I  am 
given  a  very  nice  room  in  our  new  warehouse.  The  view 
upon  the  little  harbor  and  the  grand  ocean  repay  me 
amply  for  the  privation  of  months.  At  a  distance  I  see 
the  picturesque  island  of  Catalina.  All  went  well 
until  the  end  of  August  when  some  political  differences 
arose  which  I  had  so  far  very  carefully  avoided.  How- 
ever, the  time  for  election  drew  nearer  and  I  could  not 
conceal  my  view  and  maintain  my  manhood.  I  for  one 
shall  never  be  justly  accused  of  being  untrue  to  the  dic- 
tates of  my  own  convictions.    A 

Political  Quaerel 

arose,  when  some  Arch- Yankees  in  name  branded  me  as 
a  ''German  trouble  maker,"  and  as  soon  as  the  Demo- 
cratic supervisors  of  Los  Angeles  county  appointed  me 
inspector  of  election  for  the  district  of  San  Pedro,  the 
camel's  back  was  broken.  About  twenty  of  those 
rowdies  gathered  about  my  headquarters  on  the  eve  of 
election  day  and  tried  in  vain  to  coax  me  outside,  while 
I  sat,  a  pistol  in  either  hand,  ready  for  a  bloody  defense 
should  they  dare  to  break  down  my  door.  To  do  this 
they  proved  too  cowardly,  though  even  the  mouth  of  a 
loaded  ship's  gun  had  been  turned  toward  my  room  with 
evil  intent.  When  I  realized  that  I  might  have  to  sit 
up  all  night,  six-shooters  in  hand,  I  resolved  to  beat  my 
way  through  to  Banning 's  residence.  At  eleven  o'clock 
I  went  upon  my  porch,  then  down  stairs  and  faced  the 
mob  with  piercing  look  and  ready  pistol.  A  few  made 
motions  to  attack  me  but  the  better  element  became  evi- 
dently ashamed  to  attack  a  single  opponent,  twenty  to 
one,  I  reached  the  house  unharmed  and  had  the  good 
fortune  to  meet  Mr.  Sanford  ( Banning 's  partner  in  San 
Francisco),  and  the  U.  S.  quartennaster.  Lieutenant 
Morgan,  whom  I  informed  of  what  had  happened.  Both 
were  incensed  and  the  latter  promised  me  military  pro- 
tection should  T  decide  to  attend  the  election  in  my  offi- 
cial capacity.    I  declined  with  thanks,  as  it  would  have 


314  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

■Tf 

embittered  the  hot  heads  and  might  have  led  to  blood- 
shed sooner  or  later.  Personally  I  felt  keenly  the  sym- 
pathy of  the  two  noble  men  and  returned  to  my  room 
after  midnight,  passing  but  a  few  of  the  early  disturb- 
ers. The  following  day  I  spent  at  work  at  the  SS. 
''Brother  Jonathan,"  without  even  approaching  the 
polls,  as  in  all  probability  my  appearance  would  have 
given  cause  for  new  trouble.  The  next  day  I  settled 
with  Banning  and  left,  followed  by  the  kindest  encour- 
agement of  my  employer  and  companions. 

On  my  arrival  in  Los  Angeles  I  found  myself  lionized, 
and  many  political  friends  tried  to  indemnify  me  for  the 
temporary  loss  of  employment.  Surveying  and  clerking 
for  the  count}"  kept  me  busy  from  the  first.  In  the  for- 
mer occupation,  I  mention  the  Cliino  Eanch,  sub-division 
of  San  Pedro  Kaneh  for  Ph.  Banning,  Manuel  Dominguez 
and  others,  which  brought  me  to  Wilmington  where  I 
met  no  further  annoyance. 

Work  has  positively  been  showered  upon  me  since  I 
left  Banning 's  employ,  but  as  the  winter  puts  a  stop  to 
outdoor  measurement,  the  latest  favor,  an  appointment 
as  deputy  county  clerk  comes  like  a  happy  surprise. 

I  qualify  as  deputy  county  clerk  on  November  first 
and  am  to  draw  one  hundred  dollars  from  the  public 
treasury.  Thus  ends  one  of  the  most  successful  and 
eventful  years  of  my  life. 

January-December,  1863. 

My  position  is  agreeable  and  my  mode  of  living  sim- 
ple. I  roomed  first  at  J.  M.  Griffith's  house,  then  at 
Nordholdt's  and  board  at  Dockweiler's  adobe  inn,  the 
''Lafayette,"  for  thirty  dollars  a  month. 

A  great  shock  to  me  and  to  the  many  concerned  was 
the  explosion  of  the  SS.  "Ada  Hancock"  at  Wilmington. 
Loss  of  twenty-nine  lives,  ship  totally  wrecked.  This 
happened  on  April  27th,  1863.  Mr.  Banning  himself  was 
on  board  of  the  vessel  at  the  time  of  the  explosion  and 
was  thought  to  have  been  dangerously  wounded.  Pie 
sent  me  word  by  exjoress  to  come  to  his  aid  at  once, 


A  FOURTEEN-YEAR  PERIOD  315 

whereupon  I  obtained  leave  of  absence  from  my  superior 
officer  County  Cierk  Shore  and  hastened  to  the  spot.  0, 
horrors  of  horrors!  Among  the  dead  whose  memory  I 
shall  ever  honor  were: 

W.  T.  B.  Sanford,  Banning 's  partner  and  brother-in- 
law. 

Capt.  Joe.  Bryant  of  the  SS.  ''Ada  Hancock." 

Thos.  Workman,  Bookkeeper. 

Dr.  H.  R.  Myles,  Louis  Schlesinger. 

Eobt.  Johnston,  son  of  Gen.  Sydney  Johnston, 

Capt.  Seely  and  many  others. 

Among  the  wounded  were:  The  indefatigable  Phin- 
eas  Banning,  Mrs.  Banning  and  her  mother,  Mrs.  San- 
ford; Miss  M.  Hereford  and  many  others.  Of  the  about 
fifty  persons  who  happened  to  be  on  board  but  three  or 
four  escaped  injury,  among  them  the  engineer,  Clark, 
and  the  fireman.    The  wreck  sank  immediately. 

On  my  arrival  at  San  Pedro  I  found  my  beloved  friend 
and  employer  unable  to  concentrate  his  mind,  and  I  at 
once  realized  that  I  had  to  take  matters  into  my  own 
hands,  which  task  I  did  not  underrate.  The  large  busi- 
ness needed  a  most  competent  leader  in  times  of  com- 
plete calm,  and  was  now  so  shaken  in  its  very  details 
that  confusion  seemed  to  reign  supreme.  In  addition 
to  this,  the  many  able  hands  that  lay  helpless  in  death, 
and  the  sight  of  the  many  noble  men  whose  hearts  beat 
no  more  actually  dazed  me. 

When  I  entered  the  large  warehouse,  so  well  known 
to  me,  I  found  it  partly  turned  into  a  morgue,  as  more 
than  twelve  bodies  had  already  been  brought  in  and 
stretched  out  on  primitive  frames.  In  some  cases  it  was 
impossible  to  recognize  them,  as  even  the  very  features 
were  distorted  or  torn  to  pieces.  My  first  duty  was,  of 
course,  to  put  order  into  the  interrupted  course  of  busi- 
ness. With  a  number  of  good  men  I  started  the  routine 
work  of  assorting  a  few  tons  of  freight  in  the  warehouse, 
where  the  victims  had  found  a  temporary  resting  place. 
Gruesome  as  the  task  was,  we  tried  our  best  to  clear  the 
cloudy  sky,  but  whenever  a  new  body  was  brought  in 


316  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

from  the  shore  and  we  recognized  the  well  known  figure 
of  some  honest  co-worker,  our  hearts  gi'ew  weak  and 
work  went  on  slowly.  Then  came  calls  from  mourning 
friends,  whose  piercing  cries  would  melt  the  coldest 
hearts.  One  by  one  they  finally  were  laid  to  rest— and 
may  they  rest  in  peace! 

Slowly  I  succeeded  in  bringing  order  into  the  chaos; 
and  when  all  Wilmington  rejoiced  with  me  in  the  recov- 
ery of  the  revered  Phineas  Banning,  I  was  able  to  make 
satisfactory  report.  Though  it  was  my  employer's  wish 
that  I  should  remain  as  bookkeeper,  I  declined  on  ac- 
count of  the  political  disagreements  of  the  past  and  re- 
entered my  former  position  at  the  county  clerk's  office. 
Mr.  Banning  generously  offered  me  five  hundred  dollars 
for  my  services,  of  which  I  accepted  only  two  hundred 
that  sum  rej^resenting  my  regular  salary.* 

The  beginning  of  June  found  me  again  at  my  desk  in 
the  county  courthouse  from  eight  a.  m.  to  five  p.  m., 
except  when  urgent  business  claimed  my  evening  hours, 
which  seldom  happened.  My  only  real  companion  in 
leisure  hours  is  Dr.  Theodor  Wollweber,*  with  whom  I 
discuss  current  and  past  events.  Thus  ended  another 
year. 

July  31st,  1864. 
The  new  year  brought  changes  in  the  county  adminis- 
tration, the  result  of  the  Fall  election.     My  new  chief, 
T.  D.  Mott,  kindly  confirmed  my  former  appointment, 
so  that  my  position  seems  secure  for  the  present. 


*Dear  reader !  Do  you  read  through  these  lines  the  story  of 
this  man's  noble  heart?  There  were  widows  and  orphans  who 
needed  the  money  more  than  he.  And  their  blessing  went  with 
him. — Translator. 

*Dr.  Wollweber  preceded  the  author  into  the  realms  above ; 
it  was  he,  who  translated  the  interesting  mining  letters  from 
Long-Bar — Y\iba  River — dated  1852-3.  A  strong,  manly  char- 
acter, he  soon  recognized  in  the  author  a  man,  whose  companion- 
ship was  worth  cultivating.  Strong  characters  often  differ,  so 
did  these:  mutual  respect,  however,  paved  the  way  to  a  close, 
lasting  friendship, — J.C.B, 


A  FOURTEEN- YEAR  PERIOD  317 

In  December,  1864,  I  had  to  vacate,  to  make  room  for 
the  county  clerk 's  brother,  Stephen  Mott,  which  gave  me 
a  welcome  and  much  desired  rest.  I  needed  open  air 
exercise  and  obtained  from  Geo.  Hansen  an  appointment 
as  deputy  county  surveyor.  About  the  same  time  I 
entered  Los  Angeles  Lodge,  No.  42. 

The  court,  after  nearly  six  years  of  waiting,  gives 
judgment  in  favor  of  my  claim  for  wages  from  Deputy 
Surveyor  Wm.  Moore;  the  amount  of  $383  was  finally 
paid  by  him  in  paper  money  (greenbacks),  from  which 
I  realized  $180  in  gold. 

Again  we  are  at  the  end  of  another  year.  What  has 
the  next  in  store  for  me? 

July,  1865. 

Tlie  discovery  of  coal  oil  in  these  regions  has  brought 
crowds  of  fortune  hunters  to  the  city,  and  the  location  of 
wells  naturally  puts  money  into  the  hands  of  the  sur- 
veyors. Thus  it  happens  that  I  have  been  in  clover  since 
new  year,  even  my  old  friend  GoUer— and  many  a  wordy 
war  we  have  had— has  grown  oily  and  paid  me  hand- 
somely for  plans  I  have  drawn  for  him. 

Main,  New  High,  San  Pedro  and  Alameda  streets  have 
also  been  surveyed  anew. 

Harris  Newmark  and  Isaiah  Hellman  are  among  my 
steady  patrons;  both  substantial  people.  Harris  New- 
mark  offered  me  a  lucrative  position  which  I  accepted 
about  the  middle  of  last  month.  I  also  changed  my 
boarding  place,  which  circumstance  I  consider  quite  an 
event,  as  I  dislike  changes.  Having  tried  a  French  table 
I  have  now  decided  to  let  Mrs.  M.  Goldstein  administer 
to  my  gastronomic  tastes. 

December,  1865. 
Though  everything  seemed  to  come  my  way,  and  the 
pleasant  relations  with  my  employer,  who  never  ob- 
jected when  I  had  a  chance  to  earn  a  few  dollars  extra, 
grew  stronger,  I  felt  the  slow  but  certain  approach  of  a 
perhaps  severe  illness.  As  the  only  way  to  get  well,  my 
physician  suggested  a  change  of  air.     Being  from  the 


318  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

high  North,  the  somewhat  tropical  climate  of  Los  An- 
geles has  in  course  of  years  enervated  my  whole  system, 
which  needs  a  good  cold  spell  for  a  bracer.  We  are 
accustomed  to  four  well  defined  seasons,  while  Southern 
California  offers  only  two,  in  which  the  daily  sunshine 
is  seldom  missing.  It  thus  happened  that  I  severed  my 
connection  with  Harris  Newmark,  which  was  most 
pleasant  from  beginning  to  end.  The  fifteenth  of  Decem- 
ber I  embark  on  the  "Orizaba"  at  Wilmington  and 
reach  San  Francisco  Sunday  night  after  a  most  interest- 
ing trip  of  fifty- three  hours.  Dr.  Zeile's  sanitarium  had 
been  recommended  to  me,  and  there  I  am  at  present,  able 
to  walk  around  upon  the  roof  when  the  weather  permits. 
Sam  Cohen,  Israel  Fleishman  and  J.  P.  Newmark  visit 
me  frequently.  Though  yet  on  the  repair  list,  I  hope  to 
make  the  best  of  the  coming  year. 

January-December,  1866. 

The  new  year  brought  disagreeable  weather  but  then 
I  had  been  spoiled  in  Los  Angeles.  All  went  well  with 
me  except  that  E.  Boettcher  and  I  agreed  to  disagree. 
Among  those  who  surprised  me  with  their  visit  were  my 
former  employer,  P.  Banning,  W.  H.  Peterson  and  John 
Lazzarovitch.     Schubnell  and  I  took  daily  walks. 

Through  J.  P.  Newmark  (brother  of  my  former  em- 
ployer) I  obtained  a  position  as  bookkeeper  at  E.  Wert- 
heimer's,  who  agrees  to  pay  me  one  hundred  and  fifty 
dollars  a  month.  As  I  arranged  to  begin  work  by  the 
fifteenth  of  February,  there  was  time  for  a  flying  busi- 
ness trip  to  Los  Angeles,  which  I  enjoyed  on  board  of 
the  "Orizaba,"  Capt.  Butters,  though  wind  and  weather 
were  in  a  wintry  mood. 

Tliree  days  in  Los  Angeles  sufficed  to  settle  all  matters 
and  bid  good  by  to  my  many  staunch  friends  and  ac- 
quaintances. The  "Orizaba"  took  me  safely  back  to 
San  Francisco,  where  I  entered  my  position  on  the  ap- 
pointed date.    And  here  I  am  at  the  end  of  the  year. 

From  the  beginning  I  have  boarded  at  the  St.  Nich- 
olas Hotel— a  Jewish  hostelry  well  kept  by  Levy  Hess— 


A  FOURTEEN-YEAR  PERIOD  319 

where  I  also  took  rooms  after  June  the  first,  upon  leaving 
Dr.  Zeile's  place.  Hess  charges  me  fifty  dollars  a  month 
and  treats  me  well.  "Kosher  food"  is  good  for  Gen- 
tiles. 

As  our  business,  like  all  Jewish  mercantile  houses, 
closes  on  Saturdays  at  one  o'clock,  I  find  ample  time 
for  excursions.  The  Contra  Costa  ferry  lines  and  the 
railroad  connection  to  San  Jose  offer  many  a  wholesome 
outing.  During  the  spring,  however,  most  of  my  Sun- 
day trips  were  directed  to  Oakland  where  my  friend 
Schubnell  had  found  a  home  at  Conrad  Zimmermann's. 
These  visits  gave  me  at  first  considerable  pleasure,  as 
I  sincerely  enjoyed  the  company  of  the  plain  honest 
hearts  who  met  under  the  green  foliage  of  the  pretty 
little  garden.  But  alas!  Simon  Schubnell's  health 
grew  poorer  and  poorer,  so  that  we  had  to  stay  in  his 
little  room  and  cheer  him,  while  our  hearts  were  aching. 
I  tried  to  be  more  punctual  in  my  visits  than  ever.  At 
last  the  end  came  on  June  21st  a.  c.  As  my  Los  Angeles 
friend,  Dr.  Wollweber,  happened  to  be  in  the  city,  he  too 
took  part  in  the  Masonic  rites,  which  distinguished  the 
otherwise  simple  funeral. 

At  the  beginning  of  September  the  Jewish  holidays 
gave  me  a  chance  to  pay  my  friend,  Henry  Jackson 
(Griinhagen  of  old),  a  short  visit  at  his  place  in  Watson- 
ville,  but  as  I  did  not  arrive  until  seven  o'clock  in  the 
evening,  we  had  only  the  night  for  a  friendly  chat,  as 
the  stage  left  at  six  o'clock  the  next  morning.  This 
mountain  trip  did  me  a  great  deal  of  good  and  the  scen- 
ery is  truly  magnificent. 

As  my  genial  landlord  has  sold  his  "St.  Nicholas" 
and  installed  himself  in  new  quarters  at  the  corner  of 
Market  and  Third  streets,  I  followed  him  hither  and 
occupy  now  a  room  on  the  fifth  floor,  with  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  bay,  for  which  I  have  to  pay  ten  dollars 
more  than  at  the  old  place.  But  I  get  my  money's  worth 
and  the  board  is  excellent.  The  new  year  finds  me  in  the 
same  position  and  home  comforts  as  heretofore.  My 
employers  are  gentlemen. 


320         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

January-December,  1867. 

Though  my  acquaintances  are  many  and  daily  increas- 
ing, my  intimate  friends  are  few.  Give  me  people  with 
unselfish  hearts  like  Lembcke's,  at  whose  home  on  Du- 
pont  and  Filbert  streets  I  spend  most  of  my  Sunday 
evenings;  week  day  evenings  I  generally  take  a  walk. 
During  April  and  May  commence  the  many  picnics,  in 
which  I  frequently  take  part. 

George  Dubois  from  Hamburg  obtained  a  position 
through  me  in  Los  Angeles.  On  July  seventh  Rinaldi, 
Louis  Scheerer  and  I  enjoyed  a  journey  on  foot  to 
Crj^stal  Springs,  which  is  the  most  picturesque  cave  in 
the  neighborhood  of  San  Francisco.  We  returned  homo 
by  rail.  Half  Moon  Bay  is  another  place  worth  visiting. 
The  neighborhood  of  San  Mateo,  the  rides  through 
mountains  and  valleys,  through  natural  tunnels  and 
caves  are  so  wondrously  attractive  that  I  do  not  know 
of  anything  that  could  be  of  greater  interest  to  a  lover 
of  Nature.  Such  outings  would  generally  terminate  with 
Mother  Lembcke's  genuine  German  suppers.  And  how 
good  they  tasted! 

Thus  ended  the  seventeenth  year  of  my  life  in  foreign 
lands.     Shall  I  ever  see  home  again? 

April,  1868. 

The  city  bells  and  the  uproar  of  the  noisy  populace 
announced  the  incoming  year,  while  Robert  Rinaldi  and 
I  exchanged  the  sincerest  wishes  with  the  Lembcke  fam- 
ily, who  endeavored  to  please  me  more  than  ever,  know- 
ing that  I  contemplated  a  long  absence,  though  my  plans 
had  not  matured. 

My  employers,  who  had  always  treated  me  well,  were 
rather  disappointed  when  I  announced  my  intended  trip 
to  Europe  and  acquiesced  only  when  every  offer  failed  to 
tempt  me.  Letters  from  home  sounded  more  and  more 
worrysome  and  when  father's  handwriting  grew  less 
frequent,  I  could  stand  it  no  longer.  March  the  first  I 
turned  over  my  books  in  perfect  order  to  Lips,  my  suc- 
cessor.    March  the  fifteenth  was  the  date  set  for  my 


A  FOURTEEN-YEAR  PERIOD  321 

departure.  T  liad  two  tickets,  one  for  the  North  Amer- 
ican liner  "Nebraska,"  passage  $75  to  New  York,  and 
another  for  the  ''Orizaba,"  $20  to  San  Pedro.  Many 
friends,  Lembcke's  whole  family  among  them,  bid  me  a 
hearty  farewell.  I  felt  touched  by  their  good  fellow- 
ship. Golden  Gate,  Fort  Point,  Cliff  House  and  Seal 
Rocks  disappear  and  as  rain  has  set  in  I  take  to  my  berth 
in  good  time.  My  farewell  visit  to  Los  Angeles  gave  me 
many  a  proof  of  good  will  on  the  part  of  my  old  friends, 
Dr.  Wollweber,  Messrs.  Behn  and  others.  One  even- 
ing the  "Teutonia"  gave  a  little  ball  in  my  honor,  the 
next  night  while  at  my  lodge  the  German  Sing\^erein 
serenaded  me  at  the  head  of  a  carefully  x3lanned  torch- 
light procession;  and  still  I  wonder  why  the  humble 
clerk  has  thus  been  treated!* 

Many  were  my  visits  and  many  were  the  tokens  of 
friendship.  I  mention  but  one,  the  one  I  treasure  most 
for  the  sake  of  the  noble  giver;  it  is  a  biography  of  "Mrs. 
Eliza  A.  Seton,"  and  with  it  a  few  verses,  eulogizing  the 
virtues  of  Merced,  whose  grave  I  had  visited  during  my 
short  stay.  Said  verses  were  the  giver's  own.  But  all 
days  end,  and  I  had  to  embark  and  did  so  with  a  heavier 
heart  than  from  San  Francisco.  "Was  there  a  reason? 
My  heart  will  not  tell!  Onward  once  more,  back  to  San 
Francisco,  and  then  for  the  long,  long  trip  East. 


*Do  you,  dear  reader?  Certainly  not.  But  you  who  are  young 
and  ambitious,  remember  the  virtues  which  made  Franz  Lecouv- 
reur  beloved  :  Integrity — simplicity  and  perseverance  in  all  that 
was  honorable. — Transl. 


21 


LETTER  NO.  XHI 


April,  1868. 

Before  leaving  for  New  York  I  took  precaution  to 
make  a  will,  with  David  Stern  and  Albert  Solomon  as 
witnesses.  I  believe  in  being  systematic.  My  former 
employer,  AVertheimer,  honored  me  with  an  invitation  to 
dinner,  which  I  greatly  appreciated.  The  eve  of  my  de- 
parture was  spent  at  Lembcke's,  where  the  San  Francis- 
co Mimnerchor  surprised  me  with  a  serenade,  instigated 
by  Robert  Rinaldi. 

The  last  pleasure  was  given  me  at  the  Mission  street 
wharf,  where  Lembcke,  Rinaldi,  Solomon,  Louis  Werth- 
eimer  and  others  had  assembled  to  bid  me  adieu.  The 
"Nebraska,"  Capt.  Horner,  upon  which  I  had  engaged 
a  state-room,  left  the  wharf  at  twelve  o'clock. 

Our  trip,  so  far,  has  been  most  pleasant.  To-day- 
Tuesday,  the  21st— we  stopped  in  the  harbor  of  Manza- 
nillo,  about  fifteen-hundred  and  twenty  miles  from  San 
Francisco.  Manzanillo  is  a  most  romantic  spot,  sur- 
rounded by  high  mountains;  the  gay  colors  of  the  Mexi- 
can towns  and  villages  add  to  the  beautiful  sight.  AVe 
stay  but  a  few  hours. 

The  next  day  we  reached  Acapulco  toward  evening 
and  having  passed  the  lighthouse,  we  observed  at  a  dis- 
tance some  very  destructive  but  nevertheless  magnificent 
mountain-fires.  The  coast  is  picturesque,  indeed,  and 
offers  many  beautiful  views.  Now  and  then  we  pass  a 
cape  of  lesser  importance. 

Ttiesday,  the  28th,  at  three  o'clock  in  the  moraing,  we 
anchor  below  Taboga  Island  in  the  Bay  of  Panama  and 
only  three  hours  later  than  the  ** Sacramento,"  which  left 
San  Francisco  twenty-six  hours  before  us.  Our  trip  took 
us  twelve  days  and  thirteen  hours  and  covered  a  distance 
of  three  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 

322 


A  VISIT  TO  EUROPE  333 

We  reached  the  railroad  station,  which  is  outside  of  the 
city,  and  were  packed  into  the  cars  like  sardines.  The 
heat  was  intense  though  only  eight  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing. As  no  one  seemed  to  know  or  to  care  when  the  train 
was  scheduled  to  leave,  none  of  us  dared  to  take  a  walk 
about  the  city,  though  we  did  not  start  until  eleven 
o'clock.  The  car  in  which  we  crossed  the  Isthmus  was 
literally  a  travelling-tropical  sweat-box. 

Fortunately  the  trip  took  but  three  hours  to  Aspinwall 
(Colon),  where  the  whole  population,  men,  women  and 
children  of  all  sizes  and  colors,  seemed  to  have  been  in 
wait  for  us,  for  the  purpose  of  selling  their  wares  in  pot- 
tery, basketry  and  handiwork.  Two  hours  after  we  crowd 
on  board  the  ''Santiago  de  Cuba,"  which  is  to  take  us  to 
New  York.  The  vessel  is  dirty  and  about  half  the  size  of 
the  '' Nebraska."  I  wish  we  had  taken  the  American  ves- 
sel ''Ocean  Queen,"  which  left  an  hour  later  with  the  pas- 
sengers of  the  "Sacramento"  over  which  we  now  had 
gained  an  advance. 

May,  1868. 

Toward  evening  of  the  next  day  we  sighted  the  island 
of  Cuba  and  at  eight  o'clock  enjoyed  the  magnificent 
"turning-fire"  of  Cape  San  Antonio. 

Nothing  else  of  interest  occurred  during  our  trip.  Of 
couTse  I  took  note  of  everything  and  kept  a  nautical  re- 
port from  day  to  day.  It  is  thus  one  can  enjoy  an  other- 
wise monotonous  trip.  Wednesday,  the  sixth,  about  nine 
o'clock  the  fog  had  cleared  sufficiently  to  present  to  our 
eyes  the  grand  panorama  of  the  Bay  of  New  York,  alive 
with  many  hundreds  of  vessels  of  all  sizes,  kinds  and  na- 
tionalities. Hamburg  and  San  Francisco,  in  all  their  mag- 
nificence, cannot  compete  with  New  York  in  shipping;  it 
is  simply  immense.  We  passed  Fort  Lafayette  and  an- 
chored at  the  quarantine  station  about  noon,  after  a  trip 
of  exactly  twenty-one  days  from  San  Francisco.  The 
"Ocean  Queen"  beat  us  this  trip  by  one  hour's  time.  The 
Port  formalities  were  soon  complied  with  and  by  half- 
past-one  we  landed  at  Pier  No.  45.    An  hour  later  I  had 


324         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

taken  possession  of  a  room  at  the  "Prescott  House,*' 
agreeing  to  pay  three  dollars  and  a  half  a  day  for  room 
and  board.  Among  my  first  visits  was  one  to  Harris  New- 
mark  at  his  office  on  Broadway,  and  to  Leopold  Werthei- 
mer  and  Meyer  Newmark;  and  I  received  an  invitation  to 
supper  at  Israel  Fleischman's.  A  pouring  rain  accom- 
panied me  home. 

Friday,  the  eighth,  I  visited  some  friends  of  Lembcke's 
to  whom  I  wrote  a  long  letter  later.  The  evening  found 
me  at  the  hospitable  home  of  Harris  Newmark,  whose  in- 
vitation to  dinner  was  an  honor  as  well  as  a  pleasure  to 
me. 

Saturday,  the  ninth,  and  the  Sunday  following,  were 
spent  sight-seeing  in  New  York  and  Brooklyn.  The  har- 
bor-scenes, of  course,  do  not  differ  from  others  except  that 
their  view  is  more  imposing,  but  the  different  fortifica- 
tions, such  as  the  Governors',  Ellis'  and  Bedloe's  Islands, 
and  those  of  I'orts  Eichmond  and  Tompkins  on  Staten 
Island,  and  Fort  Hamilton  at  Long  Island,  attracted  my 
attention  to  no  small  degree.  There  is  a  danger-spot  close 
by,  called  '' Hell-gate,"  a  rock  which  the  sailors  fear,  but 
Americans  will  probably  find  a  way  to  render  it  harmless 
in  time.* 

New  York  is  said  to  have  a  population  of  over  nine- 
hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  Places  of  amusements 
are  plentiful  aud  in  such  varieties,  as  one  can  only  find  in 
Sea-Ports,  where  care  is  taken  to  suit  all  nationalities  and 
their  manifold  tastes.  As  in  most  American  cities  the 
rule  seems  to  prevail  in  New  York  for  all  tradesmen  to 
congregate  in  certain  quarters,  thus  tailors,  hatters,  shoe- 
makers, tin-smiths,  etc.,  are  to  be  found,  each  in  one  cer- 
tain neighborhood;  and  what  is  true  of  them  is  also  true 
of  the  different  nationalities.  "While  the  Germans  and 
Americans  in  an  overwhelming  majority  are  everywhere, 
the  Italians,  the  French  and  others  are  more  clannish  and 
seldom  move  out  of  their  quarters.     Two  localities  are 


*They  did  so,  by  disrupting  it  by  means  of  dynamite,  a  few 
years  later. — Tr. 


A  VISIT  TO  EUROPE     ^  325 

truly  picturesque,  the  Chinese,  called  Chinatown,  with  its 
many  laundries,  curio  and  tea  stores,  opium  dens  and  a 
thousand  and  one  attractions;  and  the  Jewish  settlement 
in  Baxter  street,  which  baffles  all  description.  Of  huild- 
ings  there  are  many  magnificent  structures,  of  which  I 
mention  the  Post-office,  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of 
St.  Patrick  on  Fifth  Avenue,  the  Iimnanuel  Temple,  of 
Moorish  architecture,  Columbia  College  and  its  fine  li- 
brary, the  grand  Cooper  Institute,  the  Academy  of  De- 
sign., and  the  City  Hall,  of  white  marble,  with  Corinthian 
Porticus  and  a  dome  about  180  feet  in  height.  Among 
other  attractions  which  the  sight-seer  will  remember  are: 
the  marble  structure  of  Stewart's  warehouse,  the  cele- 
brated Hotel  x^stor  and  last  but  not  least,  the  world-re- 
nowned Delmonico  Restaurant, 

Fleishman  and  I  visited  Newark  on  Monday  and  had 
admission  to  the  clock  and  iron-moulding  factories.  This 
city  is  said  to  have  over  five  hundred  factories,  but 
strange  to  say,  little  direct  export  to  foreign  lands.  We 
visited  Jersey  City,  where  the  large  railroad  stations  in- 
terested me  most  during  our  short  stay.  We  returned  to 
New  York  b}^  way  of  the  Christopher  ferry. 

Tuesday,  the  twelfth  of  May,  was  an  ideal  spring-day, 
such  as  I  had  not  witnessed  since  my  departure  from 
home,  as  California  with  all  her  beauties  has  no  such 
spring,  no  fresh  grass  and  foliage  as  we  of  the  North  en- 
joy— except  at  the  beginning  of  the  rainy  season.  When 
the  early  Erie  train  pulled  out  of  the  Jersey  City  Station, 
I  was  just  in  the  best  of  mood  to  inhale  all  the  beauties  of 
nature,  with  which  the  trip  to  Buffalo  was  said  to  be 
strewn.  And  there  was  to  be  no  disappointment.  Such 
were  the  scenes  presented  to  our  view  that  I  actually 
found  myself  transported  in  imagination  to  home  sur- 
roundings— familiar  spots  seemed  to  turn  up  every  few 
minutes.  The  rivers,  the  brooks,  the  ver}^  ponds  with 
their  floating  leaves  and  majestic  swans,  imported  from 
Europe — all  this  caused  me  to  think,  to  meditate  upon  the 
past  and  on  the  immediate  future  which  was  awaiting  me 
9,t  my  home  across  the  ocean.    These  and  similar  were  my 


326         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

thoughts,  while  the  train  sped  along  through  the  narrow 
valley  of  the  Delaware,  which  at  times  may  be  called  a 
hollow  way  among  rocky  mountains,  mostly  very  steep 
and  bedecked  with  firs  and  ferns  of  the  most  magnificent 
kinds  and  sizes.  Here  and  there  a  romantic  village^sta- 
tion  and  now  and  then  a  wood-chopper's  abode,  which 
left  me  wondering  whether  America's  gi^eatest  son,  the 
lamented  wood  chopper  and  rail-splitting  President  was 
ever  as  happy  in  later  life  as  when  he  shared  the  bread 
and  bed  of  nature 's  sons  of  the  forest.  At  Susquehanna 
we  enjoyed  a  twenty  minutes '  stopover  for  refreshments. 
Soon  after  we  entered  the  valley  of  the  Oswego,  which  is 
wider  but  not  much  different  from  that  of  the  Delaware, 
both  being  very  picturesque.  Another  stop  was  at  eight 
in  the  evening  for  supper.  In  another  four  hours  we 
reached  Buffalo,  after  a  trip  of  four  hundred  and  eighty- 
three  miles  in  sixteen  hours,  or  about  thirty  miles  an 
hour.    The  City  Hotel  is  my  temporary  resting-place. 

Wednesday,  the  thirteenth. 

''Weather  and  women,"  some  say,  "are  changeable." 
To  the  former  I  certainly  can  testify,  as  this  downpour 
of  rain  could  surely  not  have  been  foreseen  yesterday, 
when  Flora  appeared  in  her  ever-beautiful  spring-garb. 
But  I  had  to  go  now  or  not-at-all,  if  I  wanted  to  see  the 
Niagara  Falls  before  leaving  for  Europe.  It  is  twenty- 
two  miles  from  Buffalo,  and  if  you  feel  drowsy  take  a  nap, 
for  you  certainly  will  not  lose  anything  for  the  time  be- 
ing. It  seemed  to  me  as  if  Mother  Nature  intended  to 
gather  for  rest  her  own  and  her  visitors'  strength  in  order 
to  fit  them  for  the  coming  spectacle.  I  reached  the  station 
at  ten  o'clock  and  registered  at  the  "Niagara  Hotel."  It 
actually  rained  in  torrents  nearly  all  day. 

After  seven  o'clock  it  began  to  clear  up  slightly,  where- 
fore I  ventured  out  and  following  the  sound  of  the  falling 
waters  I  soon  reached  a  spot— fancy  my  surprise— about 
two  steps  from  the  world-renowned  Falls,  The  path  had 
hidden  it  from  me  by  the  thick  bushes  which  grow  on 
either  side.    But  as  it  grew  darker  and  my  safety  de- 


A  \'ISIT  TO  EUROPE  337 

manded  prudence  in  a  perfectly  strange  country,  I  retired 
to  the  Hotel,  satisfied  with  what  I  had  seen.  The  roar  of 
the  falling  waters,  the  splashing  of  the  rain  soon  put  me 
to  sleep  within  stone  throw  of  America's  greatest  Won- 
der. 

Tuesday,  May  the  fourteenth,  1868. 
By  six  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  rain  seemed  to  dimin- 
ish sufficiently  to  risk  the  much  longed-for  excursion 
across  the  chain-bridge,  which  in  itself  is  a  wonder  of 
human  ingenuity  placed  alongside  of  this  wonder  of  the 
Supreme  Architect  of  the  Universe.  This  bridge  leads, 
on  the  Canadian  side,  to  Table-rock,  whence  wooden  and 
stone  steps,  grown  slippery  from  the  ever  dripping 
waters,  lead  downward  to  a  path  which  has  been  hewn 
into  the  stony  wall  and  which  in  turn  takes  the  visitor  to 
the  ** Horseshoe"  Fall.  Though  one  can  scarcely  progress 
more  than  fifteen  feet  under  the  main  cataract,  it  is  quite 
sufficient  for  one's  nerves.  Here,  about  eighty  feet  above 
the  boiling,  foaming  whirl-pool,  in  the  ever  dark  twilight, 
scarcely  admitted  by  the  constantly  falling  waters,  the 
thundering  noise  of  which  is  simply  deafening,  nobody 
will  ever  remain  very  long  at  one  time.  The  immense 
waters,  which  thus  form  the  unique  wonder  in  the  shape 
of  a  cataract,  come  originally  from  the  Erie  and  Ontario 
lakes,  whence  the  Niagara  River,  at  times  four  thousand 
feet  wide,  has  its  powerful  strength.  The  celebrated 
Falls  form  between  the  little  American  town  of  the  same 
name  and  the  Canadian  village,  Clifton.  Goat-Island  di- 
vides the  cataract  into  two  arms,  the  Eastern,  which 
measures  at  least  one  thousand  feet  in  width,  and  the 
Western,  which  is  on  Canadian  territory,  known  as  the 
Horseshoe  Fall  and  said  to  exceed  the  Eastern  division 
in  width  and  consequently  in  momentum.  The  grandeur 
of  this  natural  wonder  is  not  to  be  measured  by  the 
height  of  the  cataract,  but  by  the  almost  incredible  mass 
of  falling  water  which  reaches  one  hundred  million  of 
tons  in  a  single  hour.  The  bed  of  the  Niagara  at  this 
point  is  partly  chalk  but  mostly  slate  and  it  would  seem 


328  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

to  me  that  immense  wall  was  about  to  buiy  me  and  my 
four  travelling  companions,  who  must  have  had  a  similar 
feeling  for,  as  soon  as  I  turned  my  back,  every  one  of 
them  followed  me.  As  the  rain  had  ceased  I  under- 
took a  trip  to  Goat-Island  and  went  on  foot  to  the 
neighboring  Luna-Island,  a  romantic  little  place  in  the 
American  branch.  From  the  latter  Island  one  can  look 
straight  down  into  the  whirlpool,  called  Devils-pool,  one 
hundred  and  eighty-six  feet  below,  into  which  the  Luna 
branch  pours  its  waters.  After  this  I  visited  the  Terra- 
pin tower,  which  has  been  erected  upon  a  rock,  in  the 
Horseshoe  Fall.  This  tower  is  indeed  the  strangest  spot 
in  this  most  remarkable  place  on  the  American  continent, 
as  one  is  actually  permitted  to  visit  it  without  paying  a 
cent  for  the  privilege,  a  rather  incredible  fact  in  Niagara, 
Then  followed  a  trip  to  the  ''Three  Sisters,"  little  islands 
on  the  Canadian  Branch,  similar  to  Luna-Island  and 
joined  to  Goat-Island  by  pretty  little  foot-bridges.  By 
this  time  my  appetite  made  itself  felt  and  nature  within 
demanded  its  share  of  the  pleasure,  which  circumstance 
led  me  back  to  the  Hotel.  No  sooner  had  I  sat  down  to 
dinner  than  thunder  and  lightning  made  out-door  life  dis- 
agreeable, but  fortunately  the  sun  won  the  race  and  tri- 
umphantly showed  his  power  soon  after  two  o'clock.  Re- 
joice my  heart,  the  worry  has  passed!  Again  I  went  to 
the  suspension  bridge  to  inspect  it  at  my  leisure.  This 
marvellous  structure  is  eight  hundred  and  twenty-five 
feet  in  length  and  the  rails  are  two  hundred  and  sixty- 
five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Niagara  Eiver,  which  is 
said  to  be  two  hundred  feet  deep  at  this  spot.  The  bridge 
has  two  stories,  the  lower  one  for  carriages  and  foot-pas- 
sengers and  the  top  one  for  the  Railroad.  It  happened 
that  a  heavy  freight-train  passed  this  bridge,  while  I  was 
walking  below.  There  was  considerable  shaking,  but  con- 
trary to  my  expectation,  verj  little  of  visible  motion.  The 
enormous  height  of  the  structure  cannot  be  realized  from 
the  window  of  a  passing  train  but,  when  one  stands  be- 
low, the  magnificence  of  this  masterpiece  of  human  in- 
vention inspires  one  with  awe  for  the  Divine  Intelligence 


A  VISIT  TO  EUROPE  329 

which  is  the  cause  of  it  all,  and  of  which  our  finite  intelli- 
gence is  but  an  atom— an  infinitesimal  spark! 

On  my  return  trip  I  bought  a  ticket  to  Toronto  and  one 
to  Kingston.  Even  the  temporary  inclemency  of  the 
weather  helped  me  to  see  the  sights  of  Niagara  in  their 
different  aspects.  The  contrast,  for  instance,  between  the 
effects  of  the  bright  sun-light  and  the  dark,  threatening 
clouds  close  by,  upon  the  blending  white  foam  in  the 
depth,  as  seen  from  Goat-Island,  was  a  spectacle  of  Na- 
ture which  may  almost  be  called  ghostly  in  its  effect. 

The  impression  this  great  wonder  of  Nature  makes 
upon  the  beholder  cannot  easily  be  described.  It  is  too 
grand,  too  overwhelming,  to  be  expressed  in  human 
words.  Only  he,  who  has  stood  near  the  bottom  and  heard 
the  indescribable  roar  and  seen  the  stupendous  volume 
of  rushing  waters,  can  even  faintly  grasp  the  idea  of  the 
Power  and  glory  of  his  Creator,  who  tells  him  in  an  un- 
mistakable voice:  ''Humble  thyself,  for  all  the  works  of 
this  earth  are  mine.    I  am  the  Lord ! ' ' 

And  once  seen  you  will  never  forget  Niagara  Falls,  nor 
the  Voice  which  spoke  to  you. 

It  is  evening.  I  am  penning  these  lines  while  seated 
upon  a  rock  and  leaning  against  a  fir-tree;  to  my  right 
yawns  an  abyss  two  hundred  feet  deep,  and  in  front  of 
me  are  the  Falls  in  their  magnificence,  clad  in  the  golden 
light  of  the  setting  sun.  Darker  and  darker  grows  the 
spectacle,  the  Horseshoe  Fall  seems  veiled  and  soon  noth- 
ing but  the  everlasting  roar  reminds  one  of  its  royal  pres- 
ence. In  the  midst  of  it  all  I  am  thinking  of  Home  and  of 
California. 

Fridmj,  May  15th,  1868. 
The  romantic  trip  to  Lewiston  exceeds  my  expectations. 
Tlie  road  has  evidently  been  hewn  into  the  rocky  banks 
of  the  Niagara  river.  While  the  American  scenery  on 
this  road  is  decidedly  attractive,  that  on  the  Canadian 
side  has  a  still  greater  charm,  which  I  enjoyed  so  thor- 
oughly that  I  regretted  not  to  have  made  the  trip  on  foot. 
We  reached  Lewiston  at  10:50  and  proceeded  at  once  to 


330    EAST  PRUSSL\  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  little  steamer,  ''City  of  Toronto,"  wliicli  was  to  take 
us  to  the  Canadian  Metropolis.  At  Lewiston  the  Niagara 
Eiver  is  much  wider  and  the  banks  are  lower,  showing- 
neat  settlements  all  along  till  we  reach  Lake  Ontario.  It 
was  a  fine  little  trip,  which  terminated  at  two  o'clock, 
when  we  arrived  at  Toronto.  No  sooner  had  I  set  foot  on 
shore,  expecting  to  take  a  good  look  at  the  city,  when  it 
commenced  to  rain  again  so  hard  that  I  betook  myself  at 
once  to  the  depot  where  I  spent  three  drear}^  hours  wait- 
ing for  the  Grand-Trunk  train.  All  the  information  I 
could  obtain  concerning  the  city  was  that  its  name  is  of 
Indian  origin  and  means  meeting-place.  It  has  a  Uni- 
versity and  an  Observatory,  several  colleges  and  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  churches,  I  understand.  Business  must  be 
quite  brisk,  judging  from  the  sights  of  shipping  in  the 
harbor  and  at  the  freight-station. 

Our  trip  to  Kingston  was  delayed  by  an  unforeseen  ob- 
struction from  a  freight  train,  so  we  had  to  spend  all  night 
on  the  road.  We  arrived  at  our  destination  after  five 
o'clock  and  I  personally  was  glad  of  it,  as  it  is  not  at  all 
agreeable  to  hunt  for  a  hotel  at  mid-night.  From  now  on 
the  return-trip  to  New  York  was  taken  up  in  real  earnest. 
Another  pleasant  trip  by  steamer  to  Cape  Vincent  and 
thence  by  rail  to  Albany,  where  we  arrived  early  Sunday 
morning.  My  great  hope  for  favorable  weather  on  the 
trip  from  Albany  to  New  York  was  certainly  spoiled,  as 
I  had  little  chance  of  verifying  the  much  advertised  scen- 
ery of  the  ''Ehine  of  America,"  the  Hudson,  being  pre- 
vented by  heavy  clouds  and  a  cold  fog.  Arrived  at  New 
York  I  rested  at  the  Hotel,  as  the  rain  kept  me  indoors. 

This  trip  has  taught  me  that  travelling  in  America  is  a 
cheap,  comfortable  and  quick  entertainment.  Fares  in- 
cluded, I  expended  scarcely  more  than  if  I  had  boarded  at 
a  Hotel  during  the  same  length  of  time.  I  went  over 
eleven  hundred  and  thirty-three  miles,  and  the  total  cost, 
inclusive  of  all  extras,  amounted  only  to  forty-eight  Dol- 
lars, of  which  twenty-six  Dolhirs  were  for  railroad  and 
steamer  fares.  And  all  these  long  trips  without  the  con- 
stant annoyance  from  minions  of  some  little  potentate, 
whose  principality  one  happens  to  enter. 


A  VISIT  TO  EUROPE  331 

Saturdaij,  May  23d,  '68. 

I  have  procured  passage  to  Europe  on  board  of  the  SS. 
*' Bavaria,"  Capt.  Meyer,  at  the  cost  of  one  hundred  and 
thirty-nine  dollars,  paper  money  (or  one  hundred  dollars 
in  gold).  Last  Tuesday  I  went  to  Hoboken  to  see  the 
Hamburg  American  Liner  "Cimhria"  leave  the  port;  she 
is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  finest  steamers  afloat  and  pow- 
erfully strong  in  build.* 

The  remaining  time  was  spent  in  visiting  and  writing 
letters  to  CalifoiTiia  friends.  My  departure  from  New 
York  was  accompanied  by  another  heavy  storm.  The 
weather  contmued  more  or  less  unfavorable. 

Hamburg,  June  the  7th,  1868. 
The  trip  across  the  ocean  has  been  anything  but  pleas- 
ant, owing  to  the  inclemency  of  the  weather,  though  ac- 
commodations and  treatment  leave  nothing  to  wish  for. 
The  passage  from  New  York  to  Southampton  occupied 
twelve  days  and  fourteen  hours.  How  I  enjoyed  the  last 
few  minutes  as  we  passed  Blankenese,  Ottensen,  Altona 
and  then  rapidly  approached  the  dear  old  Hamburg  once 
more!  I  made  Zingg's  Hotel,  opposite  the  big  "Ex- 
change," my  headquarters;  it  is  one  of  the  most  reliable 
and  consequeutly  is  the  best  patronized  place,  where 
principally  merchants  congregate.  This  afternoon  I  took 
a  long  walk  around  town  and  found  many  improvements 
since  my  visit  of  seventeen  years  ago. 

Wednesday,  June  12th,  1868. 
My  sojourn  rested  me,  and  would  probably  have  been 
extended  had  I  not  just  received  a  telegram  which  an- 

*And  it  was  just  this  strong  steamer  which,  a  few  years  later, 
while  leaving  Hamburg  during  a  very  foggy  night  with  over 
four-hundred  passengers  on  board,  colHded  with  a  small  British 
coal-vessel,  the  "Vulcan,"  whose  drunken  captain,  Cole  by  name, 
had  previously  caused  great  damage  to  the  "Marguerite  Fran- 
chetti."  Strangely  enough,  the  "Cimbria,"  sank  instantly,  while 
cmly  twenty-three  lives  were  saved.  Among  those  drowned  were 
seventeen  American  Indians  and  most  members  of  the  grand 
American  circus  "Salamonski,"  together  witli  a  magnificent  col- 
lection of  trained  animals. — Translator, 


332  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

nounces  the  dangerous  illness  of  my  father,  thus  hasten- 
ing my  departure  for  Konigsberg.  On  the  way  I  stopped 
at  Grabow,  Mecklenburg-Schwerin,  the  native  place  of 
my  good  friends,  Lembcke  and  wife,  to  deliver  a  few  let- 
ters and  parcels  to  their  relatives.  It  was  there  that  an- 
other telegi*am,  this  time  from  Dubois,  reached  me,  which 
caused  me  to  take  the  "Express  train"  via  Berlin  to 
Konigsberg.  Though  it  was  but  two  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, I  was  too  nervous  to  rest,  and  wandered  to  the  Polish 
graveyard,  opposite  the  School-house,  where  I  received 
my  first  instnictions.  Slowly  I  returned  to  familiar 
places,  and  finally  called  on  Eosenstock,  who  accompanied 
me  to  the  train,  by  which  I  reached  Bartenstein  about 
noon— nj  time  for  my  father's  funeral.  When  I  reached 
Hamburg  my  dear  father  was  breathing  his  last,  but  the 
fact  had  not  been  made  known  to  me  in  the  telegrams,  as 
I  could  not  have  reached  home  in  time. 

Grabow,  i/M.,  Sept.  30th,  1868. 

The  days  of  family  re-union  have  passed  and  many  were 
the  visits  and  pleasant  hours  spent  among  my  relatives 
and  friends.  But  wherever  I  went  one  sad  thought 
marred  all  else.  The  most  beloved  father,  who  longed  for 
my  home-coming,  as  I  longed  to  see  him  again,  had  been 
called  before  I  could  reach  him!  It  seemed  almost  too 
hard  to  bear,  but  bear  it  I  must  and  I  did. 

Outside  of  the  family  I  met  many  old  and  new  friends, 
but  shall  mention  only  a  few,  whose  names  sound  more 
familiar:  Olias,  who  is  keeping  books  again;  Griinha- 
gen's  family,  and  Roseustock.  My  two  weeks'  stay  at 
Schleiff 's  was  full  of  pleasant  diversities. 

My  California  mail  is  astonishingly  regular,  as  Lemb- 
cke, Rinaldi,  Dr.  Wollweber,  and  many  others  prove  to  be 
faithful  corresjoondents,  who  keep  me  quite  busy  answer- 
ing them. 

Tuesday,  the  22d  of  September,  was  another  day  which 
I  shall  ever  remember,  the  farewell  from  mother  and 
sister  was  truly  heart-rendering,  as  it  followed  shortly 
after  a  visit  to  my  father's  last  resting-place.    Many  were 


A  VISIT  TO  EUROPE  333 

also  the  visits  paid  me  in  Konigsberg,  as  most  of  my  ac- 
quaintances either  managed  to  meet  me  at  Ixosenstock's 
or  at  Schwarzenberger's. 

Berlin,  the  next  stopping  place,  harbored  me  four  days, 
and  my  time  v/as  principally  taken  up  with  visits  to  rela- 
tives of  California  friends.  And  how  they  love  to  hear 
those  American  stories;  everything  interests  them. 

Monday,  the  28th  of  September,  about  four  o'clock,  I 
reached  Grabow  and  have  really  enjoyed  the  quiet  little 
town,  where  everything  seems  so  peaceful  after  the  noise 
of  a  large  city  like  Berlin.  The  Martienssens,  Lahs  and 
Jastrams  rival  each  other  in  making  my  stay  most  agree- 
able. The  little  town  has  hardly  four  thousand  inhabit- 
ants, but  they  are  all  of  the  solid  Mecklenburg  kind  which 
are  an  honor  to  any  country.  Farming  is  the  principal 
occupation  of  these  people,  which  accounts  for  their 
healthy  minds  and  bodies.  To-morrow  I  shall  continue 
my  journey  to  Hamburg,  much  as  I  should  like  to  spend 
a  few  more  days  in  these  quiet  surroundings. 

Hamburg,  Oct.  8th,  1868. 

Again  I  am  well  cared  for  at  Zingg's  Hotel,  and  make 
the  rounds  at  my  old  friends.  Dubois  secured  for  me  a 
ticket  to  New  York,  for  which  I  paid  him  one  hundred 
and  twenty  dollars. 

Of  course,  I  make  the  best  of  my  stay  by  reviving  re- 
membrances of  old,  which  I  described  in  former  pages. 
A  spot,  which  was  new  to  me,  is  the  little  borough  of 
Wandsbeck,  which,  they  say,  will  soon  be  raised  to  the 
dignitj^  of  a  city,  as  it  has  almost  the  required  ten  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  The  trouble  is,  that  it  takes  an  uncon- 
scionable amount  of  legislating  and  red  tape,  as  Wands- 
beck, like  Altona,  is  within  Holstein  territory,  which  has 
just  become  a  province  of  Prussia.  This  pleasant  bor- 
ough has  several  places  of  interest,  such  as  the  castle  of 
Count  von  Schimmelmann,  a  beautiful  forest  and  the  mon- 
ument of  its  genial  citizen,  the  writer  and  poet,  Matthias 
Claudius  (the  Whittier  of  Germany),  who  is  best  known 
as  the  ''Messenger  of  Wandsbeck,"  which  name  he  had 


33-4    EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEX  GATE 

given  to  his  mncli  read  paper.  His  poems,  like  tliose  of 
Hoflmaiiu  von  I'allersleben  excel  in  their  simplicity.  A 
little  child  will  enjoy  them,  while  unconsciously  receiving 
the  moral  lessons  which  this  great  lover  of  children  knew 
so  well  how  to  impart.  And  blessed  are  they,  whose 
thoughts  and  words  are  plain  and  pure  enough  for  a  child. 

Claudius  was  a  linguist;  among  others  he  translated 
Fenelon.  While  his  orthodoxy  remained  unshaken,  his 
influence  upon  his  friends  and  readers  was  lasting.  The 
monument  honors  his  simplicity  as  well  as  his  genius. 

On  our  way  home  we  visited  the  Work  and  Poor-house 
in  the  Oberalien  Allee-Barmbeck,  returning  finally  by  the 
magnificent  suburb  ''the  Uhlenhorst"  on  the  Outer  Al- 
ster,  enjoying  an  evening  trip  on  one  of  the  many  minia- 
ture steamboiits  amidst  hundreds  of  row  and  sailing  ves- 
sels, while  we  could  plainly  hear  the  strains  of  the  "Filhr- 
haus"  concert,  where  the  great  Kola  Bela  with  his  ex- 
cellent band  was  just  playing  the  "Turkish  Patrol."  Ket- 
tenburg's  hospitality  was  greatly  appreciated. 

The  next  day  passed  without  even  a  walk,  as  it  hap- 
pened to  be  tj'pical  Hamburg  weather,  cold  and  rainy. 
By  appointment  I  met  Dubois  in  the  evening  and  with 
him  I  went  to  "Circus  Eenz,"  which  is  in  reality  one  of 
the  finest  attractions  of  its  kind  I  have  ever  seen.  Renz 
has  a  permanent  building  near  the  Spielbuden  Platz  or 
Hamburger  Berg,  which  I  described  before,  though  he 
uses  it  only  four  or  six  weeks  a  year  and  keeps  it  closed 
for  the  rest  of  the  time.  The  fine  balconies  were  com- 
]:)letely  crowded  and  even  the  gallery  (which  Calif omians 
commonly  know  as  nigger-heaven),  was  taxed  to  the  ut- 
most. And  the  show  was  gorgeous.  The  training  and 
the  costumes  were  worthy  of  an  oriental  court.  The  fault- 
less perfonnance  of  the  horses,  elephants  and  dogs,  the 
masterly  handling  by  their  patient  trainers,  had  already 
kept  me  in  breathless  admiration ;  but,  after  the  last  num- 
ber, "The  Queen  of  Saba,"  a  magnificent  representation 
without  words,  wherein  the  combined  skill  and  ornamen- 
tal beauty  were  exhibited,  I  felt  that  I  received  more  than 
the  money's  worth. 


A  VISIT  TO  EUROPE  335 

Neil's  oyster-lionse,  which  we  visited  afterwards,  was 
to  me  the  most  interesting  eating-place  I  had  ever  visited. 
It  was  just  eleven  o'clock  when  we  entered  the  large 
rooms,  which  did  not  present  any  strange  features  except 
that  the  ceilings  seemed  lower  than  is  ordinarily  the  case 
in  large  restaurants.  As  we  were  among  the  first  to  en- 
ter, we  seated  ourselves  where  we  could  see  every  new- 
comer, and  thankful  I  was,  as  never  had  I  seen  so  cos- 
mopolitan a  throng  in  any  place  as  filed  in  at  Neil's.  The 
''Four- Hundred"  of  the  theatrical  world  of  St.  PauU 
mingled  with  the  most  picturesque  foreign  element  as 
well  as  our  own  gaily  attired  peasant-emigrants,  mostly 
sight-seers,  who  wished  to  enjoy  an  oyster-supper  at  this 
unique  though  not-at-all  fashionable  place.  "Fraternal 
Brotherhood"  seemed  to  be  the  slogan  of  this  strange 
group  of  humanity.  The  repast  was  good  and  well  served 
but  the  rooms  became  so  filled  with  smoke  that  I  was  glad 
to  escape  from  them.  We  decided  to  visit  one  more  place 
of  local,  i.  e.,  St.  Pauli  fame— the  Spanish  "Fonda"  of 
Rudecindo  Roche,  who  is  said  to  have  the  best  variety  of 
Spanish  wines  of  any  dealer  in  the  metropolis,  though  he 
might  have  chosen  a  more  aristocratic  location  for  his 
headquarters.  When  we  entered  his  place,  we  were  greet- 
ed by  a  handsome  man  of  good  medium  stature,  muscular 
build,  whose  dark  complexion  and  magnificent  black  eyes 
compared  well  with  the  engaging  smile  with  which  he 
greeted  us.  It  was  not  the  greeting  of  a  typical  inn-keep- 
er but  that  of  a  gentleman,  and  I  firmly  believe  that  he 
has  missed  or  lost  his  real  vocation.  I  heard  later  that 
this  foreigner— a  publican  in  the  sight  of  men— feeds  the 
hungry  and  clothes  the  poor  without  noising  it  abroad. 
If  his  eyes  are  the  mirror  of  his  soul,  this  Castilian  must 
have  his  heart  in  the  right  place.* 


*A11  this  is  true. — In  later  years,  Roche  obtained  five  wolf-cubs, 
which  he  trained  very  carefully,  like  dogs,  and  then  exhibited 
them  in  the  large  cities  of  Europe.  I  was  told  that  he  died  from 
wounds,  received  from  his  treacherous  pets  during  an  exhibition 
at  Antwerp. — And  the  poor  missed  him. — Translator. 


LETTER  NO.  XIV 


New  York,  Oct.  22, 1868. 

My  Beloved  Marie:— Before  these  lines  will  reach  you, 
the  news  of  my  safe  arrival  will  have  been  communicated 
to  you  by  Dubois,  who  promised  faithfully  to  send  notice 
as  soon  as  the  landing  of  the  "Allemannia"  would  be 
known  at  the  ships  broker's  office.  It  is  therefore  not 
impossible  that  you  have  knowledge  of  my  well-being  at 
this  very  moment. 

We  arrived  yesterday  morning  at  ten  o'clock,  exactly 
fourteen  days  after  leaving  Hamburg.  By  the  time  land- 
ing was  accomplished  and  the  Custom-House  formalities 
satisfactorily  gone  through,  it  was  four  o'clock.  This 
and  the  fact  that  I  desired  to  outline  to  you  my  intended 
trip  to  San  Francisco,  led  me  to  wait  till  now  to  write  this 
letter. 

My  trip  across  the  Atlantic  was  neither  fast  nor  agree- 
able, though  we  did  not  suffer  any  hardships. 

Our  voyage  through  the  North  Sea  was  fine  and  all  were 
in  the  best  of  spirits  when  we  anchored  at  Southampton, 
between  an  English  man-of-war  and  the  Eoyal  Mail 
Steamer  "La  Plata."  Our  short  stay  was  for  the  pur- 
pose of  coaling  and  exchanging  mail  and  passengers. 
There  was  a  constant  communication  with  the  shore,  as 
little  steamers  go  to  and  fro  at  short  intervals.  Besides 
this,  the  **  Jackies"  on  the  man-of-war  amused  themselves 
and  lookers-on  by  target  shooting,  while  the  boys  on  the 
Royal  Mail  Steamer,  like  our  own,  were  busy  enough  get- 
ting things  in  ship-shape.  The  ''La  Plata,"  bound  for 
Lisbon  and  Brazil,  left  Port  just  ahead  of  us.  At  Nee- 
dles we  found  ourselves  alongside  of  the  ''La  Plata" 
again  and  enjoyed  an  hour's  communication,  while  a 
friendly  race  kept  us  the  more  amused,  as  our  handsome 

33G 


BACK  TO  AMERICA  33-? 

neighbor  could  not  get  tlie  lead.  Soon  after  seven  o'clock 
our  course  changed  and  when  I  sought  my  state-room 
we  were  already  on  the  high  sea,  with  wind  from  South 
South- West  and  cloudy  sky.  The  weather  throughout 
the  trip  was  rough  and  disagreeable,  and  what  made  us 
passengers  feel  it  more  keenly  was  the  strange  fact  that 
we  only  sighted  two  vessels  at  great  distance  during  the 
first  week;  an  English  Screw-steamer  broke  the  monotony 
as  she  passed  eastbound  under  full  sails.  Of  the  passen- 
gers, I  saw  very  little,  owing  to  the  fact  that  few  over- 
came the  miserable  feeling  of  what  may  be  called  the 
aftermath  of  seasickness,  which  prevented  me  also  from 
enjoying  this  transatlantic  voyage.  Not  until  the  last 
three  days  of  our  trip  did  I  do  justice  to  the  excellent 
board.  All  in  all,  this  voyage  did  not  present  any  worse 
feature  than  one  may  expect  at  this  time  of  the  year.  We 
have  had  a  good  deal  of  storm  and  high  sea  but  nothing 
in  comparison  to  what  I  experienced  around  Cape  Horn 
in  eighteen  hundred  and  fifty-one. 

This  morning  I  heard  that  San  Francisco  has  had  a 
very  severe  earthquake  which  is  said  to  have  damaged  the 
city  considerably ;  one  part  of  town  is  even  reported  un- 
inhabitable. The  loss  of  life  is  small,  but  those  injured 
more  or  less  severely,  by  falling  brick  and  timber,  are 
many,  according  to  the  morning  papers.  Of  course,  as 
this  happened  but  yesterday,  the  reports  are  still  meager 
and  more  or  less  exaggerated.  However,  I  am  thankful 
enough  not  to  have  been  in  the  midst  of  it. 

Another  item  of  news  from  the  Pacific  affects  my  pock- 
et-book materially  and  consequently,  from  my  standpoint, 
is  of  some  importance.  The  competition  between  the 
SteamshiiD-lines  has  ceased  in  consequence  of  an  amalga- 
mation, a  case  of  big  fish  eating  the  little  ones.  This,  of 
course,  has  wrought  changes  all  around,  so  that  the  num- 
ber of  steamers  has  decreased,  while  the  fare  is  now  rated 
at  one  hundred  and  ninety  dollars  instead  of  seventy-five, 
as  I  paid  from  San  Francisco  to  New  York.  This  is  rather 
unexpected,  but  cannot  be  helped.  Another  disappoint- 
ment is  the  fact  that  I  shall  have  to  wait  here  until  the 

22 


338         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

thirty-first  before  I  can  get  a  berth.  The  disagreeable- 
ness  of  this  delay,  however,  will  be  greatly  overcome  by 
the  unexpected  pleasure  which  is  in  store  for  me.  My 
former  employer,  Harris  Newmark,  has  taken  a  passage 
on  the  same  steamer  and  seemed  to  be  as  greatly  pleased 
as  I,  wherefore  we  decided  to  share  one  and  the  same 
stateroom.  To  be  in  such  congenial  company  is  truly  a 
pleasure,  as  I  should  otherwise  have  been  compelled  to 
share  the  cabin  with  any  stranger  who  might  happen  to 
have  the  price,  as,  owing  to  the  crowded  condition  of  the 
steamers,  there  is  no  favor  shown.  My  disposition  would 
have  made  life  miserable  for  anyone  who  might  have  had 
to  share  the  place  with  me  for  three  long  weeks,  as  I  do 
not  take  to  strangers  very  readily.  This  means  one  worry 
less. 

The  evening  papers  are  just  out  and  state  that  the  San 
Francisco  damage  will  not  exceed  three  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars,  while  but  four  lives  have  been  lost.  This  is 
good  news,  indeed,  as  compared  with  that  we  first  heard. 
When  I  reach  my  destination  I  shall  send  you  a  descrip- 
tion, of  actual  facts,  which  in  all  probability  will  be  less 
sensational  than  the  reports  in  your  papers.  Los  An- 
geles has  evidently  escaped  the  earthquake  completely. 
How  anxious  I  am  to  go  to  work  again.  Truly  I  was 
not  intended  to  be  idle  and  shall  welcome  the  day  when 
this  travelling  ends.  The  steamer  "Arizona"  will  take 
us  from,  here  to  Aspinwall  and  the  "Sacramento,"  an  old 
acquaintance,  will  make  the  home-stretch  from  Panama 
to  San  Francisco. 

Do  not  expect  any  letter  from  me  before  New  Year,  as 
there  will  be  little  prospect. 

Thousandfold  greetings  to  all! 

FRANZ. 


)^^4^i>pt^c^^ 


V.  I , — ■ 


7 


DIARY  AND  NOTES. 


Before  we  had  to  bid  good-bye  to  New  York,  I  under- 
took some  splendid  trips  around  the  neighborhood,  oi 
which  the  one  of  Tuesday,  the  27tli  of  October,  seems  par- 
ticularly worth  mentioning.  For  eleven  cents  we  enjoyed 
a  car-ride  to  Harlem,  and  then  crossed  the  fine,  iron  draw- 
bridge over  the  Harlem  river  to  Motthaven,  Melrose, 
thence  to  West  and  East  Morrisania  until  we  reached 
Ti'emont.  Another  car  took  us  to  Fort  Morris  on  Long 
Island  Sound.  Having  enjoj^ed  the  sights,  we  took  the 
little  steamer  ''Sylvan  Creek"  at  129tli-street  and  passed 
Eandalls  Island  with  its  orphanages  and  Children's 
Homes;  then,  near  Hellgate,  the  Foundlings'  Homes  and 
Emigrants'  Hospital.  Passing  the  ''Table-rock"  and 
"Gridiron"  we  stop  at  Hallen's  Cove  in  Astoria,  Long 
Island.  Again  we  glide  along  the  beautiful  banks  until 
we  pass  Blackwell's  Island,  where  one  gains  a  good 
glimpse  of  the  magnificent  buildings,  which  serve  as  pen- 
itentiaries, poor  and  work-houses  and  insane-asylums. 
All  are  of  granite  and  of  imposing  dimensions  and  archi- 
tecture. This  whole  trip  cost  me  only  ten  cents;  I  do  not 
believe  that  I  can  spend  a  more  interesting  hour  upon  the 
water  for  the  price  I  paid  here,  in  any  part  of  the  globe, 
as,  between  Harlem  Bridge  and  Peck  Slip,  where  we  land- 
ed at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

The  following  day  I  visited  Manhattanville,  where  Man- 
hattan College,  conducted  by  the  Brothers  of  the  Chris- 
tian Schools,  has  been  erected  where  the  wigwams  of  the 
Manhattan  braves  once  stood.  My  object  was  to  see  High- 
Bridge,  a  million  dollar  structure,  which  one  reaches 
after  passing  through  Carmanville.  This  magnificent 
bridge  of  granite  is  fourteen  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long  of 
which  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  are  above  the  Hudson 

339 


340    EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

river,  carrying  the  Croton  Aqueduct  on  fourteen  arclies. 
Tlie  view  from  this  bridge  is  splendid.  After  a  pleasant 
walk  through  the  park  I  returned  to  the  hotel  by  the  same 
route  as  yesterday. 

Saturday,  the  31st— on  board  of  the  ''Arizona,"  Capt. 
Maury.  At  last,  about  half-past  ten,  in  the  midst  of  a 
gay  crowd  of  restless  passengers,  some  of  whom  seem 
never  to  have  been  on  board  of  a  vessel  before,  we  are 
about  to  set  out.  The  captain  appears  and  upon  a  sign 
the  minor  officers  call  out  their  routine-orders,  upon  which 
the  gang-bridges  are  drawn,  the  cable-ropes  loosened, 
while  shouts  of  farewell  and  waving  of  handkerchiefs  con- 
tinue. Now  a  single  stroke  of  the  bell  gives  the  signal 
that ^11  is  in  readiness  for  the  departure  and  immediately 
the  immense  wheels  on  either  side  begin  to  turn,  slowly 
at  first,  then  faster  and  faster  do  we  glide  from  the  dock 
into  the  beautiful  Hudson  river.  The  friends  of  our  four- 
teen hundred  passengers  combine  once  more  in  a  long, 
deafening  Hurrah,  whose  echoes  seem  to  reverberate  from 
all  the  four  points  of  the  compass,  while  the  white  hand- 
kerchiefs, like  so  many  doves'  of  peace,  signal  their  silent 
but  heartfelt  farewell  to  the  crowds  on  board  the  fleeing 
vessel,  which  soon  passes  the  Battery,  the  south  end  of  the 
city  of  New  York.  By  half-past  two  we  reach  Sandy 
Hook,  and  the  pilot  leaves  us  to  our  own  resources.  The 
sea  is  quiet,  though  the  horizon  is  by  no  means  clear.  Ow- 
ing to  the  overcrowded  condition  of  the  steamship  we  had 
to  share  our  state-room  with  a  third  passenger,  an  Ameri- 
can named  Hagar.  Strange  to  say,  while  most  passengers 
braved  the  evening  breeze,  everybody  seemed  to  have 
turned  into  his  bunk  soon  after  dark,  and  by  ten  o'clock 
everything  was  so  quiet  that  one  might  suppose  that  there 
were  not  more  than  a  dozen  persons  on  board. 

During  the  fourth  and  fifth  day  we  passed  the  West 
Indies,  of  which  the  mountain  views,  the  fire  of  Capo 
Maisi  and  Cape  Dame  Marie  on  Hayti,  as  well  as  the 
Guano  Island  Navaza,  attracted  my  special  attention. 
AVe  met  the  company's  steamers  "Ocean  Queen"  and 
"Henry  Chance j%"  both  within  talking  distance,  which 


DIARY  AND  NOTES  341 

indeed  seems  like  a  revival  of  old  acquaintanceship— that 
does  one  good  not  less  on  the  high  seas  than  on  the  desert. 
By  a  mistake  we  went  North  as  far  as  Cape  Manzanillo, 
which  is  the  more  surprising  as  our  captain  has  made  this 
trip  back  and  forth  for  ten  long  years,  and  ought  to  know 
the  proper  route  perfectly.  This  delay  brings  us  two 
hours  later  to  Aspinwall,  but  in  time  for  the  train,  which 
leaves  at  half-past  nine. 

The  air  is  refreshing  and  the  scenery  along  the  Isthmus 
at  its  very  best,  as  the  vegetation  in  these  regions  appears 
in  its  most  luxurious  colors.  How  different  from  the  dry 
and  desolate  looking  country  of  six  months  ago.  A  slight 
shower  contributes  to  our  comfort.  At  one  o'clock  we 
reach  Panama  and  as  the  ferry-steamer  "Ancon"  is  al- 
ready waiting  to  take  us  to  the  ''Sacramento,"  which  is 
anchored  at  Taboza  Island,  thus  making  it  impossible  for 
us  to  buy  curios,  to  the  great  disappointment  of  the  na- 
tives, some  of  whom  actually  swim  along  and  manage  to 
board  the  ship  in  order  to  sell  their  wares,  after  which 
they  give  an  exhibition  of  their  skill  by  jumping  back 
into  the  water  in  which,  apparently,  they  are  as  much  at 
home  as  they  are  on  land.  Happj^,  thoughtless,  easy-go- 
ing people,  nothing  worries  them;  they  eat,  and  work  at 
their  leisure,  and  their  needs  are  very  few.  Of  course, 
they  seldom  arouse  themselves  to  do  something  extraordi- 
nary nor  do  they  have  to  bear  the  burdens  which  such  an 
effort  would  inevitably  create;  they  live  in  the  blessed 
ignorance  that  belongs  to  a  semi-primitive  state  of  exist- 
ence. 

At  two  o'clock  we  boarded  the  Str.  ''Sacramento," 
Capt.  Parker,  and  soon  our  few  belongings  had  been 
stored  and  we  settled  down  for  the  last  trip.  The  scenery 
was  truly  grand,  but  the  heat!  it  was  enough,  it  seemed  to 
us,  to  boil  water  without  additional  fire.  We  were  com- 
pelled to  wait  all  the  afternoon  to  take  on  coal,  which 
delayed  the  storing  of  freight.  When  evening  came  and 
still  no  end  of  the  cargo  in  sight,  many  of  us  expressed 
the  desire  to  go  ashore  once  more,  but  we  were  iufonned 
that  the  local  goverament  forbade  all  passengers  of  the 


342  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Mail  Company  Steamers  to  visit  the  city,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  such  permission  had  been  abused  to  a  degree 
that  endangered  the  peace  and  property  of  the  city  and 
had  even  cost  human  lives  on  either  side.  Too  much 
aguardiente,  I  suppose.  We  had  consequently  to  exer- 
cise patience  during  our  imprisonment  and  be  satisfied 
with  a  look  at  the  magnificent  panorama  from  a  distance. 
It  is  now  clear  to  me  why,  on  my  first  arrival  at  Panama, 
not  a  soul  wanted  to  impart  information  as  to  the  time 
when  the  train  was  to  leave  for  Aspinwall  and  we  were 
obliged  to  wait  three  long  hours  packed  like  sardines. 
The  inimitable  ''Quien  sabe"  (who  knows)  was  all  we 
could  get  out  of  those  fellows. 

At  last  we  retired,  hoping  to  find  ourselves  in  open  sea 
the  next  morning  but!  what  a  disappointment!  Lighter 
after  lighter  appeared  and  unloaded  and  still  there 
seemed  to  be  half  a  dozen  in  waiting.  During  the  after- 
noon a  splendid  rain  refreshed  the  tropical  air,  then  a 
slight  thunder-storm  and  all  was  over.  Such  is  the  win- 
ter in  Panama,  I  am  told. 

At  last  the  end  is  in  sight,  one  more  lighter  and  then, 
hurrah  for  the  open  sea!  I  never  thought  that  I  should 
become  such  a  water-fiend,  but  I  actually  enjoy  traveling 
on  board  of  ship,  at  least  I  prefer  it  to  being  impris- 
oned on  it  in  a  tropical  Port  for  thirty-six  long  hours.  It 
was  nearly  six  o'clock  when  our  cannon  roared  its  fare- 
well and  the  mountains  echoed  our  salute,  which  rocks 
and  reefs  seemed  to  mimic.  So  great  was  my  delight  that 
mid-night  had  passed  before  I  retired  to  my  bunk.  When 
I  awoke  we  had  already  reached  Punta  Puerco  and  were 
approaching  Cape  Mariate.  The  coast  of  New  Granada 
is  really  beautiful  and  the  lofty  mountains  were  clad  in 
the  early  green  from  top  to  bottom,  without  a  bare  spot 
anywhere;  forests  ever\' where,  yea,  even  the  rocks  seem 
covered  with  green  in  this  blessed  country,  as  the  most  re- 
mote are  covered  with  ivy  or  some  other  climber,  wher- 
ever the  trees  could  not  possibly  set  roots.  Now  the  fog, 
a  heavy,  whitish  fog  is  setting  in  and  slowly  veiling  the 
scenery  I  just  described.    Here  and  there  the  climbers 


DIARY  AND  NOTES  343 

are  hanging  down  from  protruding  rocks,  while  the  veil- 
ing fog  coats  the  foliage.  What  magnificent  hiding  places 
some  of  those  spots  would  make  for  Indians  or— other 
people.  After  passing  Cape  Mariate,  our  distance  from 
the  coast  became  more  and  more  noticeable.  We  sighted 
Cape  Matapalo  the  next  morning  and,  as  the  coast  from 
there  to  Cape  Ivloreno  was  hardly  visible  to  the  naked  eye, 
the  distance  must  have  exceeded  fifteen  miles.  Toward 
evening  of  the  twelfth,  we  reached  Cape  Blanco  and  had 
covered  only  about  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  in 
about  fifty-six  hours,  as  the  wind  had  been  somewhat 
against  us  part  of  the  time.  On  Saturday,  the  fourteenth, 
we  observed  quite  a  change  of  scenery  as  the  conical  giant 
mountains  along  the  coast  of  San  Salvador  and  Guate- 
mala, many  of  which  are  volcanoes  of  more  or  less  dan- 
gerous propensities,  formed  quite  a  contrast  to  the  coast- 
scenes  I  described  before.  Some  of  these  mountains  are 
actually  thirteen  to  fourteen  thousand  feet  above  the  sea- 
level.  The  captain  informed  me  that  we  were  uncom- 
monly fortunate  in  our  observation,  as  these  giants  are 
more  than  a  hundred  miles  away  from  our  present  course, 
and  only  visible  in  consequence  of  a  certain  tropical, 
meteorological  phenomenon,  which  is  a  very  rare  occur- 
rence in  these  regions.  Two  of  those  volcanoes  seemed  to 
emit  smoke  but  that  may  have  been  a  mistake  of  ours. 

Sunday,  the  fifteenth,  finds  us  in  the  Gulf  of  Tehuante- 
pec  and  as  the  air  is  remarkably  pure  this  morning  we 
can  distinguish  the  bluish  mountains  of  Mexico,  though 
they  are  yet  fully  forty  to  fifty  miles  distant. 

A  fresh  Northwest  breeze  cooled  the  air,  and  we  were 
refreshed  in  body  and  spirit.  About  noon  we  sighted  the 
company's  Steamer  '^ Constitution,"  which  left  San  Fran- 
cisco nine  days  ago  while  we  are  nearly  five  days  from 
Panama. 

Monday^  at  day-break,  we  pass  along  the  coast  of 
Oajaca  at  a,  distance  of  about  three  miles.  This  part  of 
the  coast  shows  another  variety  of  nature's  work;  the 
mountains  are  terrace-shaped,  with  wide  romantic  val- 
leys, some  of  which  resemble  our  plains,  reaching  from 


344  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  beach  to  the  foot  of  the  mountain-ehain.  Here,  too, 
is  plenty  of  vegetation,  though  one  notices  ah'eady  the 
reddish  moimtain  tops  which  I  have  spoken  of  as  char- 
acteristic of  Northern  Mexico  and  California.  Nature 
all  along  this  coast  is  in  her  virgin-state,  which  lends  con- 
siderable variety  to  the  othei-wise  monotonous  scenery. 
Toward  night  we  noticed  a  beautiful  display  of  lightning 
in  the  East. 

Tuesday,  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  I  am  aroused 
by  the  saluting  of  our  ship's-cannon,  which  announces 
the  welcome  fact  that  we  are  at  anchor  at  Acapulco,  after 
sailing  fourteen  hundred  and  forty  miles  in  six  days  and 
nine  hours.  Having  taken  a  look  at  the  town  we  were 
glad  to  enjoy  the  coolness  of  our  tents  on  deck  of  the 
steamer,  as  the  heat  was  intensely  oppressive.  Notwith- 
standing this  one  disagreeable  feature,  we  gained  a  good 
view  of  this  romantic  sea-port  town,  which  is  so  com- 
pletely hidden  by  picturesque  mountains  that  one  cannot 
see  the  ocean;  and  as  the  entrance  into  the  beautiful  bay 
is  likewise  hidden,  the  latter  has  the  appearance  of  an 
inland  lake  rather  than  of  a  harbor,  though  it  is  quite 
large  and  deep  enough  to  admit  sea-vessels  of  all  sizes. 
Alongside  of  us  there  ride  at  anchor  two  of  the  largest 
American  clippers  and  the  big  screw  steamer  "Califor- 
nia." All  around  were  high  mountains  covered  with 
heavy  growth  of  cocoa  palms  and  gigantic  ferns,  from 
which  the  adobe  huts  of  the  natives  loomed  up  like  mush- 
rooms. Acapulco  is  a  typical  Mexican  city  with  huts  of 
wood,  reeds  or  adobe;  few  may  be  called  houses  of  one 
story,  but  all  are  without  window  panes  and  have  wooden 
or  iron  grates  instead,  a  few  have  shutters.  The  streets 
are  badly  paved  except  where  nature  x^rovided  the  rocks. 
I  was  surprised  to  see  street  lanterns,  which  showed  a 
certain  degree  of  progress.  We  then  went  to  the  fortress, 
built  of  stone  and  not  without  skill  and  practical  pur- 
pose; it  has  really  been  baptized  by  the  blood  of  French- 
men, who  occupied  the  city  but  vainly  tried  to  drive  the 
natives  out  of  the  Fortress  San  Carlos,  where  sixty  good 
sized  guns  prevented  the  capture,    A  splendid  and  well 


DIARY  AND  NOTES  345 

graded  avenue,  with  old  laurel  trees  on  either  side,  leads 
to  this  fort,  whence  one  gains  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
harbor,  which  is  fully  capable  of  giving  protection  to  five 
or  six  hundred  vessels.  It  is  said  that  Acapulco's  harbor 
is  one  of  the  safest  in  the  world.  I  cannot  but  compare  it 
to  Manzanillo,  though  the  latter  is  much  smaller  and  less 
favored  by  Mother  Nature.  Particularly  interesting  are 
the  strange  life  and  dress  of  the  natives,  who  swarm 
in  large  numbers  around  the  harbor  or  approach  the  for- 
eign ships  in  small  boats,  hewn  after  Indian  style,  out  of 
large  trunks  of  trees.  Their  dress  consists  of  an  immense 
straw  hat  called  sombrero,  an  excuse  for  a  shirt  and  short 
drawers  (which  are  frequently  wanting).  Tropical  fruits, 
bananas,  anonas,  cocoanuts,  mangos,  oranges  and  many 
others,  together  with  curious,  singing  birds,  parrots  of  all 
sizes  are  offered  for  sale  by  the  irrepressible  Mexican 
youth,  as  well  as  their  elders.  Another  amusing  feat  of 
theirs  is  their  diving  capacity.  Throw  a  small  silver  coin 
into  the  water  and  you  will  see  one  or  more  boys  diving 
after  it,  and  they  never  fail  to  fetch  it,  as  the  water  is  so 
clear,  that  one  can  clearly  recognize  any  object  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  water.  AVere  it  not  for  the  intense  heat  I 
should  like  to  know  more  about  these  dark  brown  people 
and  their  customs.  I  do  not  understand  why  one  sees  so 
very  few  white  faces  in  the  market  place  and  other  busy 
parts  of  town  compared  with  Aspinwall  or  Panama.  One 
cannot  but  think  of  the  Italian  brigands  and  their  Span- 
ish brothers  in  spirit,  as  often  represented  on  canvas  by 
the  brushes  of  our  European  artists,  when  the  poorly 
clad  brown  figures,  whose  dark  eyes  lurking  from  under 
the  immense  brim  of  their  sombreros,  make  the  stranger 
feel  rather  uncanny  until  he  imagines  himself  at  a  safe 
distance  only  to  meet  another. 

Acapulco  is  the  coaling  station  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Com- 
pany, which  accounts  for  our  stopover,  which  ended  by 
three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  Soon  after  we  passed  the 
little  lighthouse,  which  is  built  on  a  very  high  rock  so 
that  its  beacon  light  reaches  far  upon  the  sea.  Manzanillo 
is  the  next  port  of  importance,    On  our  way  to  this  liar- 


346  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

bor  we  passed  the  '^Playas  de  Cojuca,"  commonly  called 
the  "beaches,"  but  a  small  child  on  board,  noticing  this 
sandy  dividing  line  between  the  blue  surface  of  the  ocean 
and  the  dark  green  foliage  of  the  lower  mountains,  re- 
ferred to  it  as  the  "Sidewalks  of  the  Sea,"  surely  a  very 
natural  and  appropriate  name  for  it,  I  thought.  Prom 
Acapulco  to  Manzanillo,  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and 
ninety-three  miles,  we  covered  in  thirty-one  hours,  arriv- 
ing in  port  at  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening.  The  coast  view 
changed,  inasmuch  as  the  mountains  along  the  last  trip 
were  neither  so  high  nor  steep  as  those  just  passed. 

Thursday,  November  19th,  before  any  of  the  passengers 
had  arisen,  we  were  again  on  the  high  sea  and  steaming 
toward  San  Bias,  at  which  place  some  Gennan  passengers 
went  ashore,  who  were  connected  with  a  large  firm  of 
German  merchants  in  Tepic.  As  there  is  no  railroad  run- 
ning to  San  Bias,  the  stages  and  mule  trains  do  all  the 
work.  Everything  is  packed  on  mules;  care  must,  how- 
ever, be  taken  that  one  side  of  the  load  is  no  heavier  than 
the  other.  Sometimes  two  or  three  mules,  one  after  the 
other,  carry  long  pieces  of  freight  together  and  it  is  aston- 
ishing how  much  these  much  abused  creatures  can  pack 
along.  Opposite  San  Bias  are  the  Isles  de  las  Tres  Marias 
(the  three  Mary's  Islands).  I  am  told  that  ships  coaling 
there  are  occasionally  lost,  either  in  consequence  of  some 
terrific  storm  or  by  accident  more  or  less  strange.  Sea- 
faring men  have  their  suspicions.  I  forgot  to  mention 
Cape  Corrientes  which  is  important  as  the  border  outpost 
of  the  Gulf  of  California.  The  air  is  cooler  but  still  warm 
enough  to  suit  me.  By  three  o'clock  on  Friday  afternoon 
we  sighted  Cape  San  Lucas,  an  isolated  hill,  about  three 
hundred  feet  high,  which  foims  the  most  Southem  point 
of  the  peninsula  of  Lower  Califoraia.  That  night  we 
experienced  the  first  complete  calm  during  this  trip, 
which  made  it  possible  for  us  to  hear  the  splashing  of 
the  mighty  wheels  of  our  steamship.  Vegetation  is  not 
at  its  best  in  Lower  California,  the  country  looks  rather 
desolate;  though  the  volcanic,  rocky  mountains,  with 
their  many  fantastic   caves   look   picturesque   enough,   I 


DIARY  AND  NOTES  347 

should  not  care  to  live  there.  Peculiar  are  the  color 
changes  of  these  mountains,  which  appear  sometimes 
grey,  then  red,  yellow,  violet  and  green  in  the  oddest  pos- 
sible mixtures.  It  strikes  me  that  the  Titans  must  have 
had  among  them  an  artist,  who  tried  his  color  mixtures 
and  new  brushes  on  these  rocky  walls.  Again  a  change 
as  we  approach  the  Bay  of  Santa  Maria,  which  forms  a 
crescent  of  low  sandstone  hills,  until  Cape  San  Lazaro 
shows  its  height  of  fifteen  hundred  feet,  backed  by  a 
chain  of  rocks  and  volcanic  mountains.  Here,  as  else- 
where on  the  coast  of  Lower  California,  not  enough  vege- 
tation to  raise  a  cow  on  nor  enough  wood  with  which  to 
cook  a  pot  of  coffee. 

Sunday,  the  22d.  This  is  our  twelfth  day  from  Pan- 
ama. "VVe  are  speeding  along  with  Cape  Abrojos  in  sight, 
while  approaching  Cape  San  Eoque,  which  resembles  a 
mighty  heap  of  grey,  yellow  and  reddish  ashes,  and  sug- 
gests to  me  that  the  same  Titanic  painter  must  have 
emptied  his  pipe  after  his  work  was  done.  Nowhere  was 
there  even  a  weed  to  be  seen.  As  is  the  custom  on  most 
American  and  English  vessels,  there  has  been  what  they 
are  pleased  to  call  ''Divine  Service"  in  the  cabin. 

We  have  had  a  very  high  sea  all  day,  which  is  the  rea- 
son that  the  ship  was  kept  closer  to  the  shore  than  usual 
to  protect  the  immense  cargo  we  took  on  at  Panama. 
There  is  no  change  in  the  desolate  scenery,  as  we  pass 
the  large  Cerros  Island  late  in  the  evening. 

Monday  passed  quietly,  the  air  grew  colder  and  I  ac- 
tually had  to  take  out  my  overcoat  toward  evening.  The 
company's  steamer  ''Colorado,"  fifty-two  hours  from  San 
Francisco,  came  within  speaking  distance. 

Tuesday  morning  brings  us  to  an  old  acquaintance,  San 
Clemente  Island,  some  fifty  miles  south  of  San  Pedro. 
Hurrah  for  the  Stars  and  Stripes  which  greet  us  from  the 
nearby  shore.  And  at  still  greater  distance  the  progress- 
ive town  of  Los  Angeles  with  many  a  good  friend  within. 
Onward  we  speed  and  the  next  day  brings  me  face  to  face 
with  the  dear  old  "Orizaba"  and  her  well  known  crew; 
she  had  been  twenty-four  hours  at  sea  on  her  trip  from 
San  Francisco  to  San  Pedro. 


348  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

We,  of  course,  have  long  since  enjoyed  the  charming 
coast  of  CaUfoniia  but,  as  I  have  said  enough  about  these 
regions,  I  shall  drop  the  subject,  though  one  feels  like 
saying  something  nice  after  the  monotonous  view  of 
Lower  California.  Tomorrow  will  bring  us  to  San  Fran- 
cisco! 

Thursday,  the  26th  of  November,  1868.  Earlier  than 
usual  I  arose  to  watch  our  approach  to  the  long  wished- 
for  place  of  destination  and  we  soon  sighted  the  fire  of 
Cape  Bonito.  At  seven  o'clock  we  raised  our  flags  oppo- 
site Fort  Point,  and  by  eight  o'clock  I  stepped  upon  the 
wharf  where  old  Hess  received  me  cordially.  In  a  few 
minutes  our  many  passengers  had  disappeared  hither  and 
thither,  while  I  took  up  my  headquarters  at  the  Nucleus 
Hotel,  my  former  stopping  place.  After  a  few  calls  the 
afternoon  and  evening  were  spent  at  the  hospitable  home 
of  Lembcke.  There  was  an  old-fashioned  rejoicing  at 
every  pleasant  remembrance  I  related  to  my  eager  listen- 
ers as  coming  from  their  relatives,  friends  and  dear  old 
neighbors  in  Grabow,  Berlin  or  New  York,  notwithstand- 
ing that  I  had  written  several  long  letters,  bearing  most 
of  the  local  news  as  I  obtained  it  while  abroad.  There 
seemed  always  enough  matter  left  to  discuss  to  pass  the 
time  agreeably.    I  feel  at  home. 

December  3d,  1868.  Though  tempting  offers  have  been 
made  to  keep  me  here,  I  decided  to  visit  Los  Angeles  once 
more,  and  settle  business  matters  after  I  shall  have  sat- 
isfied my  longing  for  this  trip.  The  Southern  town  has 
something  besides  climate  which  seems  to  draw  me 
thither.  (Bless  his  heart,  he  had  love  in  his  bjosom  and 
spurs  in  his  heels.— Translator.) 

Saturday,  December  5th.  Having  taken  leave  of  my 
good  friends  I  am  now  bound  for  Los  Angeles,  whither 
the  old  ''Orizaba,"  Capt.  Johnson,  is  to  take  me  once 
more.  While  passing  along  the  portions  of  the  Pacific 
coast  with  which  I  was  familiar  I  cannot  help  but  think 
of  the  narrow  escape  from  drowning  which  I  had  just  ten 
years  ago,  when  the  urgent  invitation  of  my  good  old 
friend  Capt.  Moiion  of  the  ''Laura  Bevan"  led  me  to 


^^/^^^^^A^^-'^^-^   ^c^<u>c^u^r^^     (::^S^^7,^f-^^^^i^>^ 


DIARY  AND  NOTES  349 

prepare  for  a  trip  to  San  Francisco  at  a  time  set.  Tlie 
boat  was  late  and  as  I  had  business  in  tlie  Northern 
metropolis  I  concluded  to  change  my  plan  and  take  the 
''Senator,"  Capt.  Seeley,  hoping  to  keep  my  previous 
promise  on  my  return.  As  it  happened,  we  met  the 
''Laura  Bevan"  a  few  miles  from  Santa  Barbara,  South- 
bound, and  exchanged  signals.  Two  weeks  after  I  in- 
quired for  the  date  of  its  expected  arrival  from  San  Pedro 
at  San  Francisco,  when,  to  my  consternation,  I  heard  that 
the  vessel  was  eight  or  nine  days  late.  Thus  I  was 
obliged  to  return  on  the  "Senator."  Eeaching  Santa 
Barbara  I  heard  of  the  possible  fate  of  the  vessel,  which 
rumor  was  confirmed  at  Los  Angeles.  The  "Laura  Bev- 
an," Capt.  Morton,  with  crew  and  passengers  had  found 
their  death  in  mid-ocean. 

Monday,  December  14th,  1868,  Los  Angeles.  Arrived 
at  San  Pedro  just  a  week  ago  to-day,  after  a  trip  of  fifty 
hours.  To  my  great  joy  I  found  Einaldi  waiting  for  me 
with  a  buggy;  a  four  hours'  drive  took  us  to  Los  Angeles, 
where  the  welcome  accorded  me  was  truly  grand.  For  a 
whole  week  visits  and  handshaking  seemed  to  be  the 
order  of  the  daily  program.  In  the  meantime  a  great  deal 
of  good  will  has  been  shown  me  by  General  Banning,  Har- 
ris Newmark  and  others,  who  endeavored  to  engage  me 
for  their  offices.  Though  the  oif ers  made  were  very  tempt- 
ing, I  saw  a  still  better  future  in  surveying.  It  was  on 
one  of  the  visits  to  General  Banning,  in  connection  with 
my  refusal  to  take  up  the  managing  of  his  business,  that 
the  kind  old  gentleman  exclaimed:  "Frank,  if  you  ever 
need  my  help,  call  on  me  and  should  I,  forgetful  of  the 
past,  refuse  generous  assistance,  tell  me  to  remember  the 
'Ada  Hancock.'  "* 

Thursday,  December  17th,  1868.  Have  commenced  my 
work  as  surveyor  again.  Gen.  Banning  was  the  first  to 
employ  me. 

Last  night  we  were  aroused  by  the  fire  alarm  and  be- 

*The  reader  will  recollect  the  tragic  incident  of  the  loss  of  that 
ill-fated  steamer  with  many  of  her  passengers,  as  related  on  earl- 
ier pages. — Translator. 


350  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

fore  I  realized  the  closeness  of  the  danger,  the  efficient 
fire  department  had  extinguished  the  flames  which  de- 
stroyed our  hotel  kitchen.  As  usual,  I  escaped  with  a 
mere  fright. 

December  31st,  1868.  Christmas  has  passed  and  New 
Year  is  again  only  a  few  hours  away.  I  spent  the  holidays 
mostly  at  Messer's,  but  came  near  breaking  my  neck  last 
Sunday.  Having  attended  the  wedding  of  a  friend,  the 
whole  party  decided  to  drive  out  to  one  of  the  pretty 
suburbs,  when  the  horses  of  our  carriage  took  fright  and 
ran  away.  Though  two  of  our  number  were  thrown  out, 
none  was  seriously  hurt  and  I,  as  usual  on  such  occasions, 
came  away  without  a  scratch,  though  the  bugg}^  was  al- 
most demolished. 

The  dedication  of  the  new  hall  for  our  lodge  took  place 
on  Tuesday.    Am  busy  surveying, 

January  30th,  1869.  The  New  Year  has  made  two  souls 
happy.  My  old  friend  Rinaldi  and  Francisca  Valdez  de 
Pfeffer  were  made  one  on  the  second.  I  wish  them  hap- 
piness, health  and  harmony.  The  Lembckes  lost  a.  child 
on  the  sixteenth.  The  twenty-ninth  brought  us  an  earth- 
quake. Altogether  we  had  fairly  good  weather  this 
month. 

I  am  now  settled  as  civil  engineer  and  surveyor,  with 
office  in  the  "Wolfskill  building  on  Main  street,  opposite 
Commercial. 

April  30th,  1869.  The  weather  has  been  rather  wintry 
for  Los  Angeles  and  this,  together  with  a  lame  foot,  have 
kept  me  indoors  considerably. 

JiiJie  30th,  1869.  The  weather  has  changed  at  last  and 
we  enjoy  the  old  Califoraia  sunshine  once  more,  which 
makes  everj^body  feel  good.  Strange  things  happen  some- 
times, and  even  in  the  far  southwest.  Repeated  persua- 
sions from  my  many  friends  and  acquaintances  have  in- 
duced me  to  try  my  luck  in  politics.  It  is  no  more  the 
fiery  youth  of  eighteen  hundred  and  forty-eight,  who  tries 
his  wings,  but  a  man  of  many  experiences,  who  casts  his 
lot  with  the  grand  old  Democratic  party  and  hopes  to  ob- 
tain the  nomination  and  eventually  the  election  to  the 
office  of  countv  survevor. 


DIARY  AND  NOTES  351 

Tliere  are  two  other  candidates  for  this  position,  but 
the  Democratic  organ,  the  "Daily  News,"  foretells  my 
victory  on  July  third. 

Among  others,  there  appear  on  the  list  the  following 
well  known  names: 

T.  D.  Mott,  candidate  for  county  clerk. 

T.  E.  Rowan,  candidate  for  county  treasurer. 

Harris  Newmark,  candidate  for  supervisor. 

July  31st,  1809.  The  month  began  hot  and  little  work 
in  sight. 

The  Democratic  convention  confinns  my  nomination, 
giving  me  thirty-three  votes  out  of  fifty-three. 

To  celebrate  the  fourth  of  July  fittingly  after  such  a 
victory,  my  friend  Rinaldi,  his  young  wife  and  I  drove  to 
Santa  Monica  Eanch,  where  we  spent  the  day,  returning 
to  town  in  time  to  shoot  firecrackers.  On  the  nineteenth 
of  this  month  the  opening  took  place  of  Pentalpha  lodge, 
of  which  I  am  a  charter  member.  Needless  to  say  that 
the  ceremonies  were  most  impressive. 

August  7th.    Ripe  grapes. 

September  30th  (1869).  Election  day  passed  very 
quietly.  As  the  city  council  had  neglected  to  provide 
more  than  one  election  booth  as  many  as  four  hundred 
voters  are  said  to  have  been  unable  to  cast  their  votes. 
My  opponents  worked  strenuously  but  the  counting  of 
votes  had  progressed  by  midnight  so  far  that  my  election 
was  generally  conceded. 

The  ' '  Los  Angeles  Star ' '  announced  the  definite  result 
of  the  election  in  my  behalf  on  the  seventh  as  follows: 
For  Surveyor:  Lecouvreur,  1,240;  Reynolds,  677;  rest 
of  votes  scattered. 

T.  D.  Mott,  Rowan  and  Newmark  won  the  race  in  their 
respective  candidacies. 

Note  by  Translator:  Our  author  obtained  in  this  elec- 
tion more  Democratic  votes  than  did  the  presidential 
party  candidate,  Horace  Greeley,  two  years  later,  notwith- 
standing the  steady  gi'owth  of  this  city.  Gov.  Henry 
Haight,    Democrat,    polled    over    two    thousand    votes. 


352         EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEX  GATE 

Through  kindness  of  Mr.  Alfred  Street,  who  himself  held 
the  office  of  county  surveyor  of  Los  Angeles  twenty  years 
after  Lecouvreur,  the  following  copy  from  the  records 
of  the  work  done  during  the  latter 's  terms  of  office  has 
been  obtained: 

Sur\'eys  of  Gallatin  Eoad  in  1870 ;  of  Tustin  and  New- 
port City  in  1871;  Anaheim  Landing,  Compton;  Gallatin 
College,  Santa  Gertrudes,  and  Anaheim  Telegraph  Eoad, 
1871;  Monte  Branch  Eoad  in  1872;  Ballona,  Green  Mea- 
dows; Anaheim  Landing  IL,  Cahuenga  Eoads,  Anaheim 
Spadra,  Green  Meadow  VIL,  Compton  IT.,  Eichland, 
Cahuenga,  Westminstei%  Lexington  and  Gallatin,  Ana- 
heim and  Orange  Eoads  in  1873.  Mr.  Lecouvi^eur 's  diary 
does  not  give  us  many  details  of  his  official  services,  but  a 
few  notes  of  interest  from  jDublic  records  should  not  be 
omitted  in  this  connection.  Some  of  them  may  have  been 
and,  to  the  knowledge  of  the  translator,  are  mentioned  in 
the  graphic  records  given  us  by  the  eminent  writers  of 
Southern  California  history,  J.  M.  Guinn  and  H.  D.  Bar- 
rows. Many  a  page  in  the  ''Illustrated  History  of  Los 
Angelas  County"  (signed  or  unsigned)  is  from  the  pen  of 
Mr.  Barrows,  who  will  likewise  write  the  preface  to  this 
biographical  translation  and  thereby  give  th-e  weight  of 
his  testimony  to  the  work.    AVe  read; 

January,  1S70.  The  people  of  this  city  were  so  worked 
up  by  the  actions  of  the  councilmen  in  regard  to  several 
financial  manipulations  that  they  caused  the  arrest  of  this 
honorable  body  headed  by  the  mayor. 

Decemher  31st,  1870.  The  local  vigilance  committee, 
which  has  given  the  city  a  much  needed  cleansing  of  bad 
characters,  has  suspended  its  actions  with  the  close  of 
the  year  and  after  hanging  the  last  of  desperadoes,  Michel 
Laclienais. 

October,  1871.  There  has  been  a  Chinese  massacre  this 
month,  a  most  disgraceful  affair,  the  like  of  which  is  for- 
tunately not  on  American  records.  Some  members  of 
different  Chinese  secret  societies  fought  over  the  posses- 
sion of  a  woman.    The  first  battle  took  place  in  Negro 


DIARY  AND  NOTES  353 

Alley,  but  notwithstanding  that  several  shots  had  been 
fired,  nobody  seemed  seriously  hurt.  A  few  Celestials 
were  taken  to  jail  in  consequence.  The  disturbance  was 
thought  to  have  ended  and  the  jailbirds  were  taken  the 
next  day  before  the  police  court  for  preliminary  hearing, 
at  which  large  numbers  of  Chinatown  were  present.  No 
sooner  had  the  court  set  the  day  for  trial  than  the  Mon- 
golians repaired  to  their  own  quarters,  where  a  new  fight 
ensued,  which  soon  attracted  a  multitude  of  Mexicans  and 
Americans  from  that  vicinity,  some  of  whom  were  speed- 
ily mixed  up  in  the  fight.  The  heathens  fought  desper- 
ately and  an  officer,  Robert  Thompson,  who  attempted  to 
quell  the  riot,  was  killed  and  his  deputy,  Bilderain,  was 
wounded,  which  naturally  roused  the  boundless  anger  of 
the  white  mob  that  now  surrounded  the  Chinese  dens 
demanding  the  blood  of  the  murderers  of  an  American  of- 
ficial who  had  done  his  duty  as  a  peace  officer.  One  of  the 
heathens  ventured  into  the  street  and  was  at  once  caught 
by  his  pursuers,  taken  about  four  squares  and  hanged  to 
the  doorway  of  a  corral  amid  the  abjurations  of  the  en- 
raged spectators.  Having  tasted  the  blood  of  the  almond- 
eyed  stranger,  the  combined  mob  of  Americans  and  Span- 
iards now  largely  reinforced,  began  the  real  massacre. 
As  the  beleaguered  heathen  had  barricaded  doors  and 
windows,  a  crowd  of  hoodlums  in  desperate  frenzy 
climbed  upon  the  roofs,  broke  holes  through  and  shot  the 
inmates,  males,  females,  young  and  old,  regardless  as  to 
their  guilt  or  innocence.  Tlie  object  was  one  of  vengeance 
on  the  cold-blooded  murderers  of  an  American  citizen. 
It  may  seem  amazing  that  so-called  civilized  communities 
should  have  to  witness  the  frenzied  destruction  of  nearly 
a  score  of  human  lives,  even  though  the  provocation  was 
very  great.  When  quiet  was  restored,  there  were  eigh- 
teen bodies  found  dangling  in  mid  air,  some  from  win- 
dow casings,  some  from  lamp  posts,  while  one'oT  two  had 
actually  been  tied  to  the  seat  of  farm  wagons  and  others 
to  awnings,  among  these  the  body  of  a  child ! 

Though  quite  a  number  of  arrests  had  been  made,  few 
actual  convictions  followed  and  the  sentences  covered  but 

23 


354  EAST  PRUSSIA  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

a  few  years  of  imprisonment,  while  the  City  of  Angels 
will  never  be  able  to  erase  this  dark  page  from  her  chron- 
icles. How  strangely  human  justice  is  sometimes  meted 
out  in  this  free  countrv  of  ours! 


About  two  years  before  the  above  occurrence  the  author 
expressed  a  great  longing  to  see  his  fatherland,  which 
was  then  divided  into  many  principalities,  once  more 
united  under  one  supreme  head,  be  it  as  an  empire  or  as 
a  republic.  He  longed  for  it,  but  dared  not  hope.  On  the 
contrary,  he  sighed  often  when  what  he  called  the  insig- 
nificance of  Germany's  power  and  the  consequent  dimin- 
ished respect  shown  her  abroad,  was  the  subject  of  a  con- 
versation. Lecouvreur  loved  his  native  land,  and  he 
therefore  followed  the  preliminary  negotiations  between 
France  and  Prussia,  which  led  to  the  war  of  1870-71.  He 
hoped  for  a  Gennan  victory,  but  could  scarcely  believe  a 
united  action  of  Pinissia,  Bavaria,  Saxony  and  the  smaller 
kingdoms  would  be  possible.  But  the  insult  which  Na- 
poleon ni.  through  his  ambassador,  Benedetti,  had  of- 
fered the  venerable  King  William  I.  of  Pinissia,  aroused 
and  united  his  fellow  rulers  to  action.  Tlie  war  lasted  but 
two  months,  during  which  fifteen  big  battles  were  fought 
and  won  by  the  German  aimies  and  the  crowning  events, 
the  taking  prisoner  of  the  French  Emj^eror,  the  proclama- 
tion of  a  German  Empire  under  William  I.  as  well  as  the 
capitulation  of  Paris,  overpowered  our  author  with  glad- 
ness and  surprise.  Now,  at  last,  was  respect  for  the  Ger- 
man citizen  established  at  home  and  abroad. 

Los  Angeles,  like  all  Western  cities,  had  to  undergo 
many  changes  and  struggles,  with  now  and  then  a  boom, 
all  of  which  was  shared  by  the  public  spirited  author  of 
this  biography.  Being  a  man  of  education,  such  as  was 
rare  among  the  foreign  bom  element  of  this  vicinity,  his 
interest  in  all  matters  pertaining  to  the  uplifting  of  his 
fellow  men  was  as  keen  and  far-reaching  as  his  percep- 
tion of  public  needs,  wherefore  he  welcomed  and  encour- 
aged the  endeavors  of  every  good  man. 


DIARY  AND  NOTES  355 

In  the  begirming  of  June,  1877,  while  cashier  in  a  lead- 
ing local  bank  there^  began  a  new  era  for  our 
author  whose  happy  matrimonial  venture  was  accom- 
panied hj  the  earnest  wishes  of  his  many  true  friends.  A 
wedding  trip  to  Europe  was  heartily  enjoyed  by  both, 
after  which  they  founded  a  home  where  happiness 
reigned  supreme  for  fully  eleven  years,  when  suddenly  an 
attack  of  paralysis  compelled  our  author  to  bid  farewell 
to  all  activities  and  resign  himself  to  the  will  of  his  God. 
Great  were  his  sufferings  and  privations,  but  greater  was 
his  faith  and  his  hope  in  the  Divine  Mercy,  which  sus- 
tained and  comforted  him  to  the  end. 

Purified  by  fourteen  years  of  untold  agonies,  his  beau- 
tiful soul  entered  into  the  realms  of  Eternal  Peace  on  the 
seventeenth  of  January,  nineteen  hundred  and  one,  in 
the  seventy-second  year  of  his  well  spent  life  and  the 
fiftieth  year  of  his  California  citizenship. 


THE  END. 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  AT  LOS  ANGELES 

THE   UNIVERSITY  LIBRARY 

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