of Toronto
Miss Jessie Brebner
7
/
//
o ~1
FROM SARANAC TO THE
MARQUESAS AND BEYOND
/^ "/^'
OLD VIKW OF COI.INTCJN MANSE
(AS IT WAS IN THE CHILDHOOD OF R. L. S.)
' Here is the mill with the humming of thunder,"
Here is the weir with the wonder of foam ;
Here is the sluice with the race running under,
Marvellous places, though handy to home ! '
FROM SARANAC
TO THE MARQUESAS
AND BEYOND
BEING LETTERS WRITTEN BY MRS. M. I.
STEVENSON DURING 1887-88, TO HER
SISTER, JANE WHYTE BALFOUR, WITH
A SHORT INTRODUCTION BY
GEORGE W. BALFOUR, M.D., LL.D., F.R.S.E.
EDITED AND ARRANGED BY
MARIE CLOTHILDE BALFOUR
METHUEN & CO.
36 ESSEX STREET, W.C.
LONDON
1903
' Loved of wise men was the shade of my roof-tree,
The true word of welcome was spoken in the door
Dear days of old, with the faces in the firelight,
Kind folk of old, you come again no more.'
Songs of Travel : Jf.L.S.
CONTENTS
PAGE
INTRODUCTION, BY DR. GEORGE W. BALFOUR ix
PART I., SARANAC I
PART II., THE CRUISE OF THE ' CASCO ' . . 59
CONCLUSION 240
NOTES 259
INDEX . . . .31*
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
OLD VIEW OF COLINTON MANSE . . Frontispiece.
GEORGE W. BALFOUR, M.D., LL.D., F.R.S.E. to face page I
MARGARET ISABELLA BALFOUR AT THE
AGE OF FIFTEEN ,,48
JANE WHYTE BALFOUR .... 96
MRS. STEVENSON AND HER SON LOUIS
IN 1854 ,,144
REV. LEWIS BALFOUR, D.D. ... ,,192
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON, AGED FOUR 224
MRS. STEVENSON IN 1889 .... ,,256
INTRODUCTION
1 The auld manse, the auld manse,
A dear name aince to me,
Fond memory clings to auld lang syne,
When youth was fu' o' glee.
A faither's words are written there,
A mither's counsel true,
An' the music o' a sister's voice
Rests in sad memory now.'
DR. LAWRIE, Monkton Manse.
THE idea most usually associated with an
' auld manse ' is that of a parsonage ;
but any house may become a parsonage if you
put a parson into it, while no number of
parsons would make it into a manse. The
manse is built specially for its purpose, as a
residence for the minister of the parish ; and it
remains the residence of the minister and his
successors so long as it stands. A Scotch
manse never falls to a lower level, though what
it does for the parish and the district depends
x FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
on the minister and his family. In the days of
Mrs. Stevenson's youth, the manse of Colinton,
a village four miles from Edinburgh, was the
centre of life, energy, and beneficence through-
out the whole district, to an extent which may
be guessed from the fact that when a child was
taken to the doctor, he used to pack it off to
Mrs. Balfour with the remark, ' She kens far
mair aboot weans than I dae ' ; a statement
that can the more readily be believed when it
is added that he was an old bachelor, while
Mrs. Balfour had a family of thirteen, and that
children's hospitals were then unknown.
Scotch manses are all pleasantly situated,
though each may have its own peculiarities ;
and in this respect Colinton Manse does not
differ from others. If we glance at a photo-
graph of the manse as it used to be when Mrs.
Stevenson was young, and as Robert Louis
Stevenson knew it before the subsequent
alterations, we see it as a square house stand-
ing in the middle of a large garden surrounded
by a beech hedge lined with holly, always
sweet and green alike in summer and winter.
INTRODUCTION xi
There was no house more convenient for hide-
and-seek, or such childish games, nor one into
which more children could be packed to play
them ; while the large garden was a pleasant
variety for those who tired, or felt too old for
such frolics. And there were many such ; for
it was no uncommon thing that after the early
dinner general in those days, a dozen or more
young people should drop in to spend the
evening. They were always welcome.
Pleasant as the manse itself was, its sur-
roundings made it a place never to be forgotten
by those who lived in and loved it. Stepping
out of the front door into the garden at two
o'clock on a bright May morning, one stepped
at once into such a focus of bird-music as could
be heard at no other place and no other time.
Every twig of the Colinton wood that rose
above the manse had a chorister, and every
chorister had his own rich and sweet voice, the
whole blending into a fulness of volume to be
heard in no such volume elsewhere. Then in
autumn and winter, when the bird-music was
hushed, the sound of water from the burns
xii FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
trickling down the banks around so amply
supplied its place as to recall Moore's melody
as the only fit expression of its beauty :
1 There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet,
As that vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet,
For the last rays of feeling and life must depart,
Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart.'
Not many years ago a dying medical friend
expressed a great desire to see one of the old
residents of the manse, who rose from a sick-
bed with a temperature of 104 to go to him ;
and when he reached the bedside of his patient
told him how, in his fever, those words had
constantly run in his thoughts :
1 By cool Siloam's shady rill
How sweet the lily grows :
How sweet the breath, beneath the hill,
Of Sharon's dewy rose.'
The patient quite recognised the refreshing
feeling of the quotation, and added : ' The
sights and sounds of our youth are the last to
fade from our dying eyes, and you and I will
never forget our boyhood beside the Water of
Leith.'
INTRODUCTION xiii
Indeed, it would have been difficult to forget
the sound of rushing waters that pervaded the
old manse, and that has never left the ears
of those who were brought up there. The
babbling streams that trickled through Colinton
woods were as nothing to the pleasant roar
with which the Water of Leith swept round the
manse and over the Hole Mill dam, both
mill and dam long since vanished ; but the soft
rushing of the water is heard still in the ears of
those who lived as children within its ken.
Colinton Manse itself was supposed to have
been built in 1784 for the Rev. Dr. Walker,
minister of the parish, and Professor of Natural
History in the University of Edinburgh, who
has left his mark all around his old home
in many semi-naturalised plants in the manse
garden and the encompassing woods. Recently,
however, in making a third series of repairs,
a stone was discovered bearing the date 1636,
so that the manse may be much older than was
supposed. It is built upon a flat rock in the
centre of its garden of three-quarters of an acre
Scots, ten feet below the level of the church-
xiv FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
yard ; it could never be utilised for any other
purpose than as a manse, being from its
situation not well adapted as a residence for
any but a minister's family, whose religious
surroundings might be relied on to protect
them from the ' Spunkies ' that to childish eyes
danced over the churchyard, or the ' will-o'-the
wisps ' that glimmered through the churchyard
hedge. The solid rock on which the house is
founded also precluded the use of the ground
as an addition to the graveyard, while helping
to preserve the manse as an admirable and
most healthy dwelling-place for succeeding
generations, well drained and well ventilated.
' Low-lying and unhealthy, do you call it ? '
Dr. Balfour used to say. ' Well, I have spent
a goodly part of eighty years in the manse and
have always enjoyed good health ; and when
my children ail, they always come here to
recruit ! '
Into this commodious but already well-filled
house a twelfth child and fourth daughter was
ushered on the nth February 1829. She was
named Margaret Isabella, after an aunt, but for
INTRODUCTION xv
some time was known by the rather uncouth
contraction, ' Magga-bella ' ; this however was
ultimately shortened to ' Maggie,' which re-
mained the name by which she was univer-
sally known through life. Tall, slender,
singularly graceful, brilliantly fair in com-
plexion, she was known throughout the parish
as ' the minister's white-headed lassie ' ; her
greatest pleasure was to ' nurse ' any baby she
could get hold of, and to reach one she would
' kilt her coats ' and wade through all the
burns in the parish, and many a time through
the Water of Leith itself. The sweet and
sympathetic temper which made her so wel-
come and kind a nurse made her also the
delightful companion she was to all throughout
her life, and enabled her to make a perfect
heaven upon earth of a household which
contained within itself the elements of discord.
A personage in every way so attractive was
not likely to be permitted to remain long in
her own quiet home, so it is not to be
wondered at that Maggie Balfour was married
to Thomas Stevenson at the early age of
xvi FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
nineteen. She was still so young that there
had been neither time nor opportunity to
leave behind her in the parish any other
impression than that she was ' the minister's
white-headed lassie, who was daft aboot
weans ' ; and by now even this characteristic
is pretty nearly forgotten. Yet she did not
leave the manse altogether behind her. Her
only child, Robert Louis Stevenson, was born
on November 13, 1850, and being more or
less delicate from birth, he and his mother
spent a large portion of their time in her old
home, while Thomas Stevenson made a great
number of his experiments in holophotal
lighting in the manse garden. The only
drawback to his perfect happiness there, he
said, apart from the illness of his wife and
child, was that he was roused every morning
in what he called ' the middle of the night ' ;
the prayer-bell being rung at 8 A.M. summer
and winter, while at one time the clock was
kept half an hour fast to cheat those who
objected to get up so early.
Shortly after this, Mrs. Stevenson developed
INTRODUCTION xvii
a patch of fibroid pneumonia in her left lung,
with slight haemoptysis. For this she was
sent to Mentone ; and at the end of two years
she and a German lady, suffering similarly,
were the only survivors of the first season's
visitors to that celebrated health resort. For
some years after this, the health alike of Mrs.
Stevenson and her son necessitated wintering
abroad every season, as well as great care in
selecting a suitable summer residence ; nor
was she allowed to rise before lunch, though
later in the day she was always able to dis-
charge her many social duties, and her un-
diminished gaiety and wit still, and always,
delighted her wide circle of friends and guests.
By and by increasing ill-health on the part of
herself, her husband, and her son broke up
the domesticity of the once happy home, and
then came about the most remarkable part of
Mrs. Stevenson's history a veritable crisis
in her life.
After her husband's death in 1887, not only
her happiness but her very existence seemed
to merge in that of her distinguished son.
xviii FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
She rose from her bed in renewed youth and
went off with him to the Adirondacks, not
suffering more than himself from the severe
cold, and possibly deriving an actual benefit
from it. For an equable climate, rather than
any special temperature, is what these fibroid
pneumonias require ; the patients themselves
often hanker after a warmer climate, but if
pleasanter, it is less suitable for them, since
in it they incur greater risk of haemorrhage.
After this winter, however, the Stevensons
went to the South Seas, and finally settled in
Samoa ; where the quondam delicate woman
adapted herself to her strange surroundings,
went about barefoot, found no heat too great
for her, and at an age when her sisters at home
were old ladies, learnt to ride !
Shortly after her son Louis' death, Mrs.
Stevenson returned to Edinburgh, where she
lived till May 1897, when she was seized with
pneumonia. The day before her death, the
nurse asking if she were prepared for what-
ever might happen, she replied in the
affirmative ; and between seven and eight in
INTRODUCTION xix
the evening, thinking she saw her son at the
foot of the bed, she exclaimed, ' There is
Louis ! I must go . . .' and fell back at once,
unconscious, though she did not actually
breathe her last till the next day, one of the
few survivors left of the happy company of
'children of the manse.' Truly we may be
thankful that we still have ' Auntie ' with us
' Chief of our Aunts ! ' as she was truly
called ; and
' In her dear hands
Are gathered the various strings of memory,
To pluck them at our bidding, one by one.'
GEORGE W. BALFOUR.
[These were almost the last words written
by Dr. George W. Balfour before his death.
In his long illness, so bravely and cheerfully
borne, his thoughts turned more and more
towards the pleasant home in the valley of the
Water of Leith, where he spent his childhood ;
and last but one of the children of the manse,
it was a pleasure to him, and I think a grateful
xx FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
labour even in his weakness, to write these
words so full of memories of the past. As he
himself says, the song of birds in Colinton
woods, and the rush of water sweeping by
Colinton Manse, stayed with him to the end.
That end found him in the old parish, that
has lost in him one more link with the past,
and where he was beloved alike for his father's
sake and his own. And the sermon preached
on the day of his death, in the church that
had been his father's so long ago, closed with
these words :
' When the end comes, as it came to him,
after a long life of usefulness and honour;
when it is the sheaf golden and fully ripe that
is garnered ; even death itself ceases to be
grievous, and the old saying comes true :
' " Ease after toil, port after stormy seas,
Peace after war, death after life,
Doe greatly please." '
M. C. B.]
UlidKUK \V. UAI.KOUK, M.D., 1. 1.. I)., K.N.S.
1'HYSICiAN IN OUIJINAKY TO TUB K.ING FOK SCOTLAND
"That wise youth, my Uncle . . ,"
Dedication to Underwoods, R. I.. S.
/rain a pliotogtaph by .Mr. y. Meffat, Edinburgh
FROM SARANAC TO
THE MARQUESAS AND BEYOND
PART I. : SARANAC
IT is not proposed to transcribe in full in the
following pages, Mrs. Stevenson's letters
written during the months immediately pre-
ceding her cruise in the South Seas.
There is, indeed, as can well be understood,
a considerable portion of the letters that would
be quite unsuitable for such treatment ; for
in this journey, so new to her, but so often
described by others, she naturally comments
upon matters that are already quite familiar to
many. Moreover, since she wrote to a circle
of home readers as yet much smaller than it
afterwards became, there is a larger proportion
of purely private matter ; so that in some of
the letters, more especially the earlier ones,
there are only isolated passages of general
interest. Nevertheless, it has been felt that
A
2 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
some account should be given of this winter in
the Adirondacks.
It was the first step in the great journey
that Mrs. Stevenson undertook, at an age
when most women are glad to renounce such
things ; a journey that went further and lasted
longer than she foresaw, and that carried her
to many strange and lovely places. But to
write of these without the stages on the road
that lead to them is to tell only half the story,
with all its extraordinary contrasts omitted ; it
is one side of the picture without the other, the
sun without the snow, the tropic heat without
the Arctic winter that came before it. 1 1 seems,
indeed, from these letters, that the Adirondacks
did not serve so badly in the matter of health,
since we hear of fewer colds and haemorrhages
than are recorded in Tahiti or Hawaii : but it
is possible that the bitter cold of Saranac urged
the Stevensons to its proper antithesis in the
tropics, and it is certain that it added to the
intensity with which they enjoyed their life in
the South Seas.
To give some impression, therefore, of these
months in America, the following plan has been
adopted : Extracts have been made from Mrs.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 3
Stevenson's letters and run together so as to
form a more or less complete and consecutive,
but condensed, narrative. Dates and a few
necessary references are given as footnotes,
but no attempt has been made to transcribe
each, or any, letter in full, or by itself. The
South Sea 'journal-letters,' which follow, are
of course given in entirety ; but the object here
has rather been to present, in Mrs. Stevenson's
own words, a short introductory account of the
winter at Saranac that immediately preceded
and led to the cruise of the Casco.
4 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
On board the ' Ludgate Hill] Aug. 25, 1887.*
HERE we are, having made a famous start.
Yesterday was very fine and warm, and
Louis was even able to be on deck in the
evening. The sea is like a mill-pond, and I
could even do with a little more motion ! . . .
When we came on board, however, we were
rather disappointed to find a very dirty and
untidy vessel, not the least like the one Fanny
had seen, and which was said to be a ' sister
ship ' to this ; and after we had started we
heard that we were to take in cargo at Havres,
and presently discovered that said cargo was
to consist of two hundred and forty horses !
This was slightly discouraging, but we agreed
to make the best of things and look upon it as
an 'adventure,' which Louis and Lloyd have
always been sighing for. The captain declared
that horses made capital passengers ' better
than some people ' and that once we were in
* The party consisted of Mrs. Stevenson, her son Robert Louis
Stevenson and his wife, his stepson Mr. Osbourne, and Valentine Roch,
a trusted Swiss maid who had been some time in their service.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 5
the swell of the Atlantic, they were quite quiet.
The embarkment at Havres was certainly
interesting, and it was as good as a circus to
watch the process ; but the night we spent in
dock there was a perfect pandemonium ; what
with the neighing of horses, the lowing of cattle
(for we have some of them on board too), the
taking in of cargo, and the constant shouting
and yelling of French and English sailors.
We were rather disturbed by it all, as you may
suppose, but got more sleep than sounds
possible. The worst of it is the strong stable
smell, which is not quite the fine sea air that
we expected to blow in at our port-hole.
However, Louis assures us it is ' gran' for the
health,' so that ought to be a consolation.
Our company on board is not very dis-
tinguished, but we have no reason to com-
plain of that. So far every one has been very
pleasant ; though there is one passenger who
has a habit of attaching himself to a victim
and talking to him straight on for hours. Louis
calls him ' the bore ' ; which has now developed
into ' Orate et B orate' . . .
We have had almost continuous bad weather,
and two nights were very stormy. I confess I
6 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
was rather frightened at first ; but I was com-
forted to hear that although a cattle-boat may
have drawbacks, you may always be sure it is
considered safe when it is trusted with so
valuable a cargo. The wind is still high, and
it is almost impossible to move about. The
poor horses suffer very much and cry out at
night in a dreadfully human way ; they stamp
so constantly, poor things, that I feel as if they
must end by making a hole through the bottom
of the ship ! They are well looked after, how-
ever ; the men in charge sit up all night when
the weather is stormy. One man is a queer
old fellow with a broad red sash round his
waist, and a keen eye that Fanny is sure must
keep the horses in order ; but I fancy he puts
more reliance in a big stick that he always
carries about with him. Among his underlings
are an Ashantee, an Indian, and a Negro. It
is rather strange to look straight out through our
port-hole on a row of horses, and still stranger,
in the saloon, to see a horse looking in at one
of the windows. It would be curious to hear
what he thinks of it.
. . . This weather makes many blanks at
table. Louis, however, is well, and in great
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 7
spirits, and seems already ever so much better.
He was in our cabin by eight o'clock this morn-
ing, looking as young and gay as a schoolboy,
and reminding me of days lang syne : he calls
himself 'the hardy mariner.' We have our
own tea and butter, and you would be amused
to see him fishing them out from our ' pantry,'
which is under the sofa, and going round with
tea and biscuits for the invalids, to try and pre-
pare them for breakfast by and by. I myself
have never been better in my life, and have
never suffered from the motion. Louis calls
me 'Mother Carey's chicken,' a complimen-
tary name for so old a bird ! . . .
It is a week to-day since we left Havres, and
will likely be at least another week before we
reach New York. The weather is still cold and
stormy, and the wind dead against us, so we
get on very slowly. Most of the invalids are
getting better, however ; and we can't be
thankful enough that Louis has kept so well in
spite of all the drawbacks of the voyage. He
has taken no cold, so far, and was as bright
and cheery as possible, going about among the
sick people and dosing them with champagne ;
indeed he enjoyed it so much, that he was half
8 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
sorry when they got better ! . . . Our sock-
knitting has proved a great occupation. I have
finished one and am well on with the other ;
but Fanny is still struggling with her heel,
which has been taken down several times and
always seems to get worse instead of better.
Louis declares that she has had the stewardess
and our special steward ' Peter ' and all sorts
of people helping her, but all to no avail. At
least we get great amusement out of it. ...
The gale has come to an end at last, and we
can get on deck and move about freely, which
has been impossible hitherto. Every one says
it has been an extraordinary passage for the
season ; not because the wind has been excep-
tionally high, but it has been so continuous.
Now, however, we are off Newfoundland, in the
region of fogs : talk of Scottish mists, why, a
' soft day ' in Arran is dry compared with this.
In a few minutes we are soaking. . . . This
morning Louis roused us at 7 A.M. to ' see Cape
Race ' ; we dressed in a fashion and hurried up
to find the fog had lifted, but I can't say I saw
much land, it might quite as well have been a
cloud. However, on this occasion I employed
faith to construct a mountain instead of to move
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 9
one. Unfortunately, our pleasure in nearing
the end of our journey is spoilt by Louis having
caught cold I hope not a bad one, but at the
best it is distressing and makes us anxious.
He is as cheerful as ever, so far, and declares
he is much more astonished at having kept
well till now than at having knocked up at
last. . . .
The sensation of to-day, the 5th of Sep-
tember, was the arrival of the pilot. First one
pilot-boat was seen making all sail and trying
to catch us up, and then another appeared
ahead of us and much nearer ; when No. i saw
this he gave us up as a bad job, and bore out to
sea to look for another vessel. It made me feel
very like a fly with two spiders making for me ;
two very important little spiders and a big
stupid fly. ... I must not forget to tell you
that the pilot was greatly delighted when he
found out who Louis was ; it seems that he
himself actually went by the name of ' Mr.
Hyde ' on board the pilot-boat, and his partner
was called Dr. Jekyll, because the one was easy
and good-natured, and the other rather hard
and inclined to screw the men down to their
work. Was it not strange that he, out of so
io FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
many, should have been the one to bring us
into New York ? . . .
We were met, as soon as we got into dock,
by a telegram from Mr. F to say that he
was unable to come himself, but a carriage was
waiting to take us to the hotel, where we were
to stay as his guests till we felt able to go on
to Newport. Was it not a pleasant reception
in a new and strange land ?
New York, September io.
WHEN we got to the hotel, interviewers
. from, all the papers began to arrive at
once. Louis, who was very tired and far from
well, had gone to bed immediately, to have a
rest, so they had to be dismissed and told to
come back later, when they must take their
chance of finding him ; but it was hard to
persuade them to go away, and they kept
sending up their cards even after Louis had
finally settled down for the night.
On Wednesday, the day we landed, the heat
was very great, and we had all the windows wide
open ; but in the middle of the night it turned
very cold something like an Edinburgh east
wind, and more unexpected. We felt that such
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS TI
a climate was very unsuitable for Louis, so we
sent him off to Newport on Thursday, in the
charge of Lloyd and Valentine. . . . When they
were gone, Fanny and I decided to look for a
more moderate hotel, and found one which is
quite comfortable and reasonable : but when we
offered to pay our share of the bill at the first
place, the clerk declared there was nothing
owing, and added, ' It will be well for the
ladies if their path to heaven is as clear as it is
out of this hotel ! '
One of our objects in staying on here has
been to see the first performance of Jekyll and
Hyde, which takes place to-night (Sept. 12).
At first we were told that we could only get
seats far back, as all the others had been taken ;
but later Mr. Sullivan, who dramatised the
story, gave up his box to Fanny, saying that
the author's box certainly belonged to her.
He is a nice young fellow, and very modest
about himself : he will not go on the stage even
when loudly called for, as at Boston ; he says he
would go with Louis; but not alone. . . . Tues-
day morning. Just a line to say that the play
was most thrilling and a great success. Hyde
is the most dreadful creature you can imagine,
12 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
and Jekyll so much the reverse, that how he
can change from one to the other is past my
comprehension it is marvellous, especially in
the latter part. The murder scene was too
much for me, I could not look at it. I think
the play can never be really popular with
ordinary playgoers, but it was enthusiastically
received and the house was packed. Lloyd,
who came up from Newport to see it, and
arrived late, got the second last standing-place,
and that with a squeeze.
Newport, September 20, 1887.*
HERE we are in the meantime. It was
indeed vexing that Louis got cold
just as we arrived : however, there has been no
haemorrhage and he is now feeling better, so
he and Fanny went off to New York last night
to see the best lung doctor there, and to settle
where we are to go for the winter. I shall be
very anxious till it is finally decided, and indeed
until we reach our destination and see how it
suits him. ... I have been much the better for
* Extracted from letter to ' Cummy ' (Miss A. Cunningham), Robert
Louis Stevenson's devoted nurse and attendant in earlier days.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 13
the voyage, and you would be surprised to see
how much I can do. The other day Lloyd and
I went for a walk along the fine cliffs, with the
Atlantic on one side of us, and large villas on
the other, planted in beautiful emerald lawns
without any division or hedge between them ;
for it appears that it is considered very selfish
here to put up any fence which prevents your
neighbours from enjoy ing your possessions, so
that there is not much privacy. We walked
about three miles, and expected to meet at the
end a kind of open omnibus to take us back to
our boarding-house. I was very tired, and sat
down to wait for it ; but as time passed and no
vehicle appeared, we began to get uneasy and
Lloyd went to inquire of a boy, who ' guessed
the man wouldn't feel like starting unless he
had got a party.' This was cheerful, as I was
tired out, and we were three miles from home ;
but just then a grocer's cart came past, and we
begged the driver to give us a lift on our way.
He said at once that we might go with him as
far as he could take us ; so we mounted beside
him, and behold us driving through the smartest
part of the most fashionable watering-place in
the States in a grocer's cart, stopping at the
14 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
doors while the man delivered his parcels ! He
was a nice young fellow and would take nothing
in return.
... In our New York hotel there was a bed
in every room, but they can be made up into
a sort of bureau by day, if you wish to use the
room as a parlour, while the washing arrange-
ments are all hidden away in little closets
lighted with gas. In one there is a fixed-in
basin of very small size, with two large taps for
hot and cold water hanging over it, so that I
was afraid lest I should put my eyes out while
washing my face ; and in another there is a
fixed-in bath. . . . Fanny says that when she
first went to England she hated our ways, for
she could not lift the heavy ewers, and thought
we only used them because we were so poverty-
stricken that we could not afford to have fixed-
in basins ! So you see everything depends on
the point of view.
... I have just heard that we are to go to
the Adirondacks, a mountainous district not
very far from New York. The climate is said
to resemble Davos, and so may be just the thing
for Louis : but if after a while it does not seem
to suit him, we can then move on to Colorado,
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 15
He is so much better now, that we would not
be so afraid of the journey.
Plattsburg, October 2.*
LOUIS, Valentine, and I left New York
on Friday, and we have made out our
journey very well, so far, and have enjoyed it.
We had a delightful little cabin all to ourselves
on the river-boat and a most attentive blackie
to look after us. Mr. Low, who saw us off, told
us that the man had come up to him in a most
insinuating way, saying, ' You might tell me
who these people in there are ; something royal,
ain't they ? ' Mr. Low regretted afterwards that
he had not thought of saying it was ' Prince
Florizel of Bohemia and his suite ' ! . . . The
river scenery constantly reminded me of Scot-
land, but of course the autumn foliage is
something wholly new to us both. Louis and
I had always longed to see it, and at last we
are fully satisfied. ... I went to the Presby-
terian Church here this morning, and had a very
good sermon : in the course of it the minister,
in speaking of yielding to evil, said that by
doing so, 'in the end Hyde would conquer
* Letters to Miss Balfour resumed.
1 6 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Jekyll.' Was it not odd that I should just
happen to hear that in this out-of-the-way
place ? And moreover the last sermon I heard
in New York was on the same subject. . . .
On Monday morning Louis, Valentine, and
I again started on our way to the Adirondacks.
The railway took us as far as Loon Lake,
through a country very like what Perthshire
may have been some two hundred years ago ;
some of the forests, however, are partly cut
down, and the rivers are full of lumber on its
long way to the sea. I am told it takes four
years to travel from Saranac to Plattsburg!
... At Loon Lake we found a nice buggy
waiting for us ; it had two horses, and had been
specially made for invalids, with good springs,
which we fully appreciated while driving
twenty-five miles over very bad roads. The
wind was cold, and when we were about half-
way the rain came on, and I was frightened
about Louis ; however, we found there was a
water-proof apron that buttoned right up to
the top of the hood, so that we were practi-
cally in a close carriage. When we reached
Saranac, Fanny met us in a petticoat and
jacket, busy cooking our dinner !
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 17
The house is built of wooden boards, painted
white, with green shutters, and a verandah
around it. It belongs to a guide, who takes
parties into the woods for shooting and fishing
excursions ; he usually has boarders, but he and
his wife have agreed to give over to us part of
the house, their own portion being entirely shut
off by double doors. Into our part you enter
by the kitchen ! Through that you pass to
the sitting-room, which is large, and has a good
open hearth for wood fires ; straight on leads
to Louis's and Fanny's room, which has four
windows and a stove, and beyond that again is
Louis's study. Besides the two doors already
mentioned in the sitting-room, there are no less
than three others ; one to the verandah, which
is the proper ' front entrance ' of the house, but
has to be shut up in winter on account of the
cold ; one to my room, which has also four
windows, and one opening on a steep stair
which leads to Lloyd's room and a small spare
chamber. Everything is of the plainest and
simplest, but sufficiently comfortable. We are
about ten minutes' walk distant from the vil-
lage and beautifully situated above the river,
upon which we look down ; the view from our
B
1 8 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
windows is best described as 'very highland,'
but the chief glory just now lies in the
autumn colourings, which Louis declares are
exactly like the Skelt's theatre scenes, the
' twopence coloured ' ones that we used to think
so impossible ! He is consequently delighted,
and declares it reminds him of Leith Street
and home. . . . Fortunately he has been
none the worse of the journey and the long
drive in the rain, and says that he already
feels the air of Saranac doing him good, so
I trust we have hit on a place that will really
suit him.
Yesterday'"" was a charm ing day, with Mentone
skies and the brightest of sunshine ; certainly, if
we have a good deal of weather like this we
shall think ourselves very well off. And the
air is delicious, with a sweetness that again and
again reminds me of the Highlands. We now
go out for frequent drives ; I have begun to
drive myself, and enjoy it very much, but at
first I was nervous, as the roads are so narrow,
and often run along precipitous banks. How-
ever the prettiest of all is quite safe, and just
now there is little traffic on it, so I began on
* October 23.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 19
that. On Thursday we had a conveyance new
to me, a buck board ; it is just a long, very
elastic board fastened to two pairs of wheels,
with a small seat in the centre, holding two
with difficulty. There are no springs, but the
board is so elastic that it is quite enjoyable
when we come to a rough bit of the road ; we
go up and down as if we were in a swing. The
worst part of it is, that the only way to hold on
the rug is by wrapping it under our feet and
it is always slipping off; also there is no place
for parcels except on my lap, and when I have
three loaves of bread to carry home, and other
sundries, it is decidedly inconvenient.
Yesterday there were some important letters
to be posted, so I got up early and started at
9 A.M. on a bitterly cold, snowy morning, to
take them to the village. How it reminded me
of starting for school in the old Colinton days !
But imagine my disgust when I got to the post
office to be told that since last week the time
had been altered, and the mail now was de-
spatched at eight, instead of at ten o'clock!
When I complained that we had not been
informed, I was told that it had been in ' all the
county papers ' ; but we had never even heard
20 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
of a county paper, far less seen one. Of course,
we had to grin and bear it.
October 27.
THE weather we find very variable: one
day it is fine and almost warm, and the
next is very cold with a little snow. I feel
very well and strong, and can take long walks
without being tired ; and Louis is wonderfully
well for him, though the keen wind prevents
him from getting out every day. But every
one is enthusiastic about the climate here : I
went one day to visit a lady who has been here
for four years, and she says she delights in the
winter, and is just longing for the frost to set in ;
the air is delicious then, and you don't feel the
cold nearly as much as just now. She told me,
also, that a man was once asked to take over
the livery stables here, to which he replied,
' What, go to Saranac, where the sick folk ride
out in all weathers ! I should think not, it 's
enough to kill any horse ! '
You call your house the ' Barracks ' ; well,
ours is the ' Hunters' Home,' and Louis will
not allow anything to be done that interferes
with that illusion. We have in the living-room
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 21
a plain deal table covered with stains ; I wanted
to put a nice cloth on it, but he would not hear
of it. 'For what,' he cries, 'have hunters to
do with table-covers ? ' There is not a foot-
stool in the house, and the draughts along the
floor make my feet very cold ; so as a special
favour to me, a log of wood is to be sawn into
suitable pieces to serve as stools and still be
in keeping with the ' Hunters' Home.' There
was neither a teapot nor a coffeepot amongst
the furnishings, as we believe that here both of
these beverages are usually boiled in a sauce-
pan ; but we did not mind this, as we had
utensils of our own bought for use on the
voyage. What we did suffer from was the
absence of a single egg-cup. I went yesterday
to the village to see if I could buy any at the
store ; no such thing was to be had, and the man
seemed surprised at our wanting them. He
at last suggested that he might give us a small
jug that would do, and presently produced one
that would certainly have held a full pint !
Lloyd gravely asked if he could also supply
eggs that would fit it. ... This morning I
bethought myself of my pointed medicine-glass,
but alas ! the egg was lost in its depths ; how-
22 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
ever, I stuffed the bottom of it with paper, and
finally ate my egg in triumph. Nothing gives
me more pleasure or a better appetite than
an obstacle overcome, and these incidents of
backwoods life are quite entertaining.
I must give you some account of how we pass
our days here. My stove is lit about 6.30 in
the morning, and warms the room very quickly,
so that I can soon sit up to read or write.
Louis and Lloyd breakfast rather early and
work until lunch-time ; when Lou writes in the
sitting-room, I keep up the fire in my stove
and stay in my own room, which is very bright
and cheery. If I want to go out without dis-
turbing the two authors, I get out by the
window ; I wish you could see the performance,
for as the aperture is only the size of four small
panes of glass, and the frame is held up by
a stick, you may fancy it requires careful
engineering to get through it. At 12.30 we all
meet at lunch, and work is pretty well over for
the day ; at two the buggy arrives, and two of
us go for a drive. Louis always takes his walks
quite alone, and hates even to meet any one
when he is out ; so it is fortunate that we are
some way from the village, and that there is a
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 23
private pine - wood close behind the house.
When he comes in he generally goes to bed
till dinner-time, at six o'clock. After dinner
we talk and read aloud and play at cards till
ten, when we are all ready for bed. You see
it is a long day for Louis, who is often up very
early ; and that he is able for it proves that he
is keeping wonderfully well.
November 1 1 .
WE have been driving with a pair of
ponies lately, or rather Lloyd has ; it
is the first time he has tried it, so he practises
on me. I think one of the uses I have served
in the world is to have experiments tried on
me ; G did it in my youth with ether and
chloroform, and now Lloyd does it with horses !
We have several times been nearly upset, but
mercifully have always escaped ; he really drives
well, but the roads are so bad here that often
we must just 'shut our eyes and trust in Provi-
dence,' as G - used to do in the hands of
John Dick going down the hill at Colinton.
This morning we have had the heaviest fall
of snow that we have seen yet, and everything
is white. Louis at once put on all his furs,
24 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
buffalo coat, astrachan cap, and Indian boots,
and went out for a walk. He looks very
picturesque in these garments, and how
delightful it is to see him able to go out in
such weather ! We have much sunshine, and
I cannot find it in my heart to wish for winter
to descend finally upon us.
November 19.
r ~T^HE snow still continues, but it is not yet
JL deep enough for good sleighing, though
to-day Fanny, Louis, and Lloyd are off to try
it. It is the day we are supposed to receive
visitors, and I have just been tidying the room
so far as I can ; I think I must describe to you
the decoration of our mantelpiece. At each
end there is a bright red tobacco-box, and as a
centre ornament there is a whisky-bottle ! It
was a neat flat shape, and the only thing tall
enough to suit our critical eyes as a centre-
piece. . . .
. . . We have had more snow, and very
severe frost, with the thermometer down to
twenty-five degrees below zero, so you see
we were fairly off on one of ' Kane's Arctic
Voyages.' Water froze in our rooms with the
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 25
stoves kept burning all night : the ink froze on
the table beside my bed. Louis woke one
night dreaming that a rat was biting his ears,
and the cause was a slight frost-bite ; and
Valentine found her handkerchief, under her
pillow, frozen into a ball in the morning. How
would you like, too, to have your kitchen floor
turned into a nice shining sheet of ice the
moment you had washed it with hot water,
mind and a good fire in the room ?
Out of doors it was impossible to touch
metal without being 'burnt,' and Lloyd only
managed to drive by wearing, first, white kid
gloves, second, fur-lined ones, and third, on the
top of both, a pair of buff leather mittens. I
wonder whether the ' 'mometer ' will play any
further pranks, and whether I shall have any
worse experiences in this line to tell you. I
enjoy their novelty ; but the sunny south is still
my ideal climate, though I must confess we do
not feel the cold severely here, so long as it is
bright and still. The other night Louis slept
with one open window, and in the morning I
dressed with two. It is only in wind that the
house is cold, in spite of all the windows we
have stopped up ; and there are few days
26 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
when Louis is not able to get out, and to enjoy
it besides, He was busy all last Sunday
afternoon arranging the words 'Come unto Me,
all ye that labour,' etc. to an air of Beethoven's,
the theme, I am told, of 'six variations faciles?
Louis thinks the music ' all that a human being
can conceive in the way of consolation/ but,
alas ! I feel my limitations, for to me it says
nothing at all. (You remember T always
said I could only distinguish ' God Save the
Queen' from 'Jennie's Bawbee,' because it
was so much slower.) Louis is very anxious
to have his setting played in the church here,
and as Mr. D sees no objection, the
organist is to come up to try it over first, and
we are looking forward to it with interest.
Our life here is made up of small interests, and
just now, while Louis and I are left to ourselves,
it seems oddly like the old days at Heriot Row.
Then, when ' Papa dined out,' Lou and I used
to indulge in dishes we were not allowed at
other times, particularly rabbit-pie, I remem-
ber and so we do still. I sometimes almost
forget that my baby has grown up !
Saranac has got terribly civilised since the
railway was opened, and is fast losing all its
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 27
pleasant peculiarities. The sign-boards, for
instance : the shoemaker had a boot cut out of
thin wood, painted black, with his name on it
in yellow, and nailed to the nearest telegraph-
post. On another telegraph-post was a square
board with the following :
Warm Meats
Come and see Me
At the old Post Office
I grieve to say this has already been removed,
and a great common-place, ' Restaurant ' put
up instead.
January 14.
I HAVE a wonderful piece of news for you.
Louis has got a pair of skates and has
actually been out skating twice on the pond at
the back of our house, and last Sunday he went
for a sleigh-ride on Saranac Lake. He came
back delighted, and none the worse of it ; and
really he is not only keeping well, but is
distinctly a little fatter. We all thought it, but
28 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
did not like to trust our eyes till some friends
noticed it also.
Yesterday the thermometer never rose above
zero even in the sun, and yet Lloyd and I
drove ten miles and enjoyed it. I must,
however, tell you the garments I wore. I had
my sealskin jacket under my fur-lined cloak, my
tweed cap, with knitted ear-covers added under
the tweed ones, and thick knitted veil, and my
long wool wrap twisted round and round over
all. Then I had muffatees, silk, and double
woollen mittens on top, and a muff! ! We had
each a hot soap-stone for our feet, and if we had
only had the small ones which I have ordered
(but which have not yet arrived) for our hands,
I think we would have been very complete.
We felt exactly as if we were travelling in
Siberia, all the people we met looked so like
pictures one has seen of life there. We begin
to think, now, that if the climate is like this,
the exiles may have a better time than we used
to suppose. For, as I said before, we really
do not feel the cold so much as we often do
at home, and we all keep well, Louis quite
wonderfully so. Indeed he seems to feel the
cold less than any of us, and he skates a little
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 29
every day and enjoys it, which is a capital sign
of his health.
This morning * I found both milk and water
frozen quite hard in my bedroom, and the
thermometer has been down to forty degrees
below zero during the night. Hence some
further experiences from ' Kane's Voyages ' :
Louis's buffalo coat was frozen fast to the
kitchen door, behind which it hangs, though
the fire was kept alight in the stove all through
the night. Valentine's floor was a sheet of ice,
and the edge of her dress, having got damp,
was frozen hard and did not melt all day.
When she was making soup for dinner, there
was a large lump of ice in the pot, which did
not seem to have melted at all, though the
water about it was steaming and bubbling as if
on the point of boiling ; and the cold venison
that had been thawed in the oven for a whole
hour had still the ice crunching in it when it
came to table ! Neither Louis nor I ventured
out, but he put on his furs and ' played Arctic
voyages ' to the amusement of some of our
visitors who declared the weather was de-
lightful. One of them told us a story of a
* January 21.
30 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Yankee called Bayard a not uncommon name
here who boasted that he was descended from
the Chevalier sans pere et sans culottes !
I am thinking of going to New York for a
few days, partly to bring Fanny home, for
though better, I do not believe she is well
enough to travel alone, and partly for a little
change. Louis is so well that he really will
not miss me, and is so deep in his writing that
he often quite forgets any one's presence.
[In the interval Mrs. Stevenson carried out
her intention of going to New York, and paid
the city a hurried visit. During her absence,
the line to Saranac was snowed up, and the
telegraphic connection broken down ; as soon
as the rail was again clear, she returned in the
company of her daughter-in-law.]
February 5.
HERE we are, back again in safety at the
Hunter's Home, and glad to find Louis
looking well in spite of the great cold. In fact,
when we arrived we heard that he had been
paying calls, and doing all sorts of wonderful
things even dining out ! without ill effects ;
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 31
so you can realise what Saranac has done for
him. Cold as it is, it cannot be denied that
the climate seems to be just what suits him
splendidly. Our journey home was most
comfortable (considering the weather), and
the railway people most attentive. In Albany,
where we stayed a night, a gentleman con-
nected with the line took me a drive round the
town, showed me the Capitol, the Ice Carnival
then in progress, etc. etc., and then brought
us a sleigh and pair to take us to the train,
gave us complimentary tickets as far as Platts-
burg, and telegraphed to the latter place to
have the parlour car ready for us to go on to
Saranac. All this, remember, not at all for
our beaux yeux, but for the sake of R. L.
Stevenson. We found it embarrassing but
pleasant, and were amused to find them very
busy when we arrived at Plattsburg, thawing
out the parlour car for our sole benefit. You
can therefore picture us arriving at Saranac in
state, in the first parlour car that had ever been
seen there. ... Of course Fanny is feeling
the fatigue of the journey, but we hope that
will pass off. Unfortunately we had barely
got home, when Valentine broke down, and
32 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
took to bed ; it is vexing, but Louis is having
a fine time at housework, and is busy expound-
ing to us the true scientific method of washing
china and crystal. I only wish you could see
him, and share our amusement ! . . . Since I
wrote, things have been less bright with us,
and we are all in a more or less broken down
condition. Louis has had a touch of fever, and
was coughing badly, though this the doctor has
been able to relieve ; still we have been rather
anxious about him, for he could neither eat nor
sleep. The doctor has now put him on koumiss,
and it seems to be doing him good already ;
indeed in these two days he has improved in a
wonderful way. In the midst of this I broke
down, and had to go off to bed. I think the truth
is we all did too much while Valentine was ill,
and we are feeling the effects now. Fortunately
Fanny is better, and I am up again, though I
have still to keep to the house, so things look
less gloomy. We have another girl to help
Valentine now, moreover, and we all feel quite
cheerful at the thought of being able to go to
bed with an easy conscience when we feel so in-
clined. . . . Very cold again, and the thermo-
meter down to forty-eight degrees below zero ;
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 33
eggs frozen hard, and the milk solid. It is
rather monotonous having constantly to thaw
out everything we use. . .
I have just been reading with interest your
accounts of Moody and Sankey, but I cannot
bear the way they write about the after-meet-
ings. Dr. Adam Hunter once said to me, ' I
highly disapprove of the meddlesome midwifery
of the present day ' ; and in the same way I
cannot help thinking there is too much meddling
with the second birth, too much interference
with spiritual modesty and reticence.
February 26.
I AM off to Boston to-morrow to visit the
F s. I wished to decline, but the
doctor insisted that it was the very thing to set
me up completely, so I gave in, and I expect
I shall enjoy it very much. I shall be glad of a
change, too, as the weather here has been very
trying ; one day like summer,with blue skies and
bright sunshine, and the thermometer at fifty-
eight degrees, and the next snowing and blow-
ing as hard as ever. Strange to say, it seems to
do us little harm, and Louis is very much better
again, and beginning to be able for a little work,
c
34 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
He is answerable for a new addition to our circle,
by the way, a large black and white puppy, half
Newfoundland and half mongrel. Lou would
buy it as a present for Fanny, though I tried to
dissuade him, and I think Fanny would have
been better pleased without it. The creature
is a good-natured goose of a thing, that will
run after horses and bark at them, till the village
turns out and pelts him with bricks, and Lloyd
won't call him off because he objects to acknow-
ledging any connection with him. But he is
Lou's latest fancy, and he declares that there
never yet was a Hunter's Home without a dog
in it.
Boston, March 3.
I RE ACHED this pleasant house on Tues-
day evening, and have settled down to feel
myself very much at home. The whole family is
so nice, and it is so long since I lived in the
midst of a large family, that I had almost for-
gotten what a pleasant thing it was. . . . It is
certainly a delightful town to visit, and the
neighbourhood is very pretty ; we get at once
into the country quite close to this house, with
large residences (not suburbs) scattered about.
The sun has melted nearly all the snow, and it
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 35
was delightful to see green grass after nothing
but snow for more than three months ; I imagine
that in later spring the gardens about here must
be very lovely.
Mrs. F took me to a meeting which she
said was typical of Boston society : it was on
behalf of the American School at Athens where
students are sent to study Greek art. It was
held in a private drawing-room, and attended
by all the leading people ; Lowell, the poet, was
in the chair. When it was over, I was intro-
duced to him and to Mr. B , said to be
the most popular minister in Boston, and to
many others, who all said nice things about my
boy. In fact they are much too kind to me, on
his account, and I tell Mrs. F I must just
save myself by flight. In the afternoon we
drove out to Cambridge, to see the University.
The Greek Professor took us over the Library,
the Memorial Hall, the Dining Hall, and the
Gymnasium, and then took us to his house for
tea ; where to our surprise we found quite a
number of people collected. I was introduced
to Longfellow's daughter, and his brother, who
wrote his life ; and to Professor James, who
talked much to me of Lou, and told me that he
3 6 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
was planning a letter to his 'beloved Robert
Louis Stevenson.' I was much provoked after-
wards to find that he was the brother of Henry
James, and I had not known it. ... On
Wednesday we went to see Laura Bridgeman,
and I was greatly interested. She was fifty-
eight last December, when she had a jubilee to
celebrate her fiftieth birthday in the Asylum,
and had fifty presents given to her ; somehow,
I expected to find her much older. She is
small, and very thin and nervous, quivering all
over when moved or excited ; she likes visitors,
and has a wonderful kind of palmistry of her
own, which no one can explain. We were told of
three recent instances : the first was a man, who
was almost imbecile, but had been so carefully
trained, that he could pass in a crowd. He
came to see Laura, and when she touched
his hand she dropped it as if it had been a frog,
and said, ' Is he afoot?' The second case was
a lady, who edited a magazine. Of her Laura
said, ' Her hand is as hot as fire ; does she
write poetry ? ' No. 3 was a gentleman whose
name was not mentioned ; Laura drew back
from him and asked, ' Is he kind to his family ? '
By common knowledge, he was not. . . .
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 37
So much for Boston, of which I have brought
away very pleasant memories, and a huge
fatigue after so much dissipation ; in fact, I
was nearly killed with kindness. To be inter-
viewed from morning to night as the mother of
Robert Louis Stevenson is no joke, I assure
you, however great an honour it may be !
Saranac, March n.
I GOT back here on Friday, very much worn
out, and much as I had enjoyed my visit,
very happy to return home and find Louis really
getting quite fat on his koumiss, and remarkably
well. But when a few hours had elapsed, I
had good cause to feel even more thankful to
find myself safe at home ; for we have just had
the worst snowstorm of the season, and our
house was nearly buried in lovely snowdrifts.
They looked so pure and so exquisite, when
seen through the window, that I longed to dive
into their downy softness, but refrained ; I
suspect it was a case in which distance lent
enchantment to the view. All the railroad lines
were blocked up, telegraphic and telephonic
communication stopped, and we were for three
days completely shut off from the outer world ;
38 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
but this is the first time that Saranac has been
so entirely isolated, and even this time we really
suffered on the whole less than in most parts,
and save when the snow was falling there has
been a good deal of sunshine and not much
severe cold. Imagine how thankful I am, how-
ever, to have been snowed in, and not out of,
the ' Hunter's Home'!
At present I am in quarantine, as I have had
a threatening of cold ever since my return, and
the last two days have developed a slight sore
throat. So I am not allowed to be in the same
room with Louis : when he comes out of his
room, / vanish into mine, and we are exactly
like the little gentleman and lady in the 'weather
boxes.' I think I am the bad weather one,
as Louis needs sunshine to tempt him out, and
a little less snow.
After Fanny starts for California, which
will be as soon as she is able for it, Louis and
Lloyd and I mean to pack up and go off for a
change, perhaps to Washington, which is said
to be pleasant in April. But we are much
exercised in our minds as to what we should
do after that : many people tell us that Louis
ought to come back here for the summer and
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 39
camp out in the woods, a life that is said to
be wonderful for the health. Sometimes I feel
that after coming so far we ought to stay long
enough to get the full benefit, and sometimes I
weary to get home. I only trust that in the
end we may do what is best.
March 31.
FANNY left us on Monday for California,
and after a week full of literary visitors
we felt very quiet. The weather, too, has been
plunging from winter to summer and back
again ; Fanny started in midwinter and I was
still confined to the house ; Tuesday was lovely
and quite warm, with the thermometer at
seventy degrees in the shade and deliciously
dry air, though the melting snow was running
in rivers everywhere. Louis had two walks
and a drive, and looked delightfully well ; and
I sat out in the verandah, reading, for two
hours, and my only complaint was that the sun
was rather hot ! Wednesday was still mild, but
duller ; and on Thursday the world was as
snow-white as in midwinter again ! I notice,
however, that the snow is much moister than
before, and I fancy we have done with sleighing
40 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
for the season. We are back to buckboards,
but the roads are in a fearful state with great
chunks of half-melted ice, so that driving is
scarcely a pleasure.
I wonder what you will think of Louis's
sermon in the April Scribnerl I was horribly
depressed when he first read it to us, and told
him I could not bear to be reduced to the level
of a mite in a cheese, . . . neither can I ac-
knowledge that we are such hideous creatures
as he describes. Still I think it is a grand
idea that the whole creation is striving after
the fulfilment of an idea of duty, and not to be
deterred by any number of failures. Here is
another opinion on the subject : 'R. H. Stoddart
asserts that R. L. Stevenson's essay entitled
Pulvis et Umbra in the current number of
Scribners is inhuman, brutal, and devilish.
Ho, ho ! ' We do not know whether the ' ho,
ho ' is meant for Stoddart or Stevenson ! . . .
The sensation of the week has been a visit
from Bandmann the actor. He is an Austrian
and a charming old man, has been thrice round
the world, and thinks the Scotch are the finest
people on the face of the earth. Moreover
that opinion was not invented to please us
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 41
(which it did) as you will find it in his book of
travels ! I declare that he is the most pious
visitor we have had yet, as he was the only
one who ever said ' Amen ' to Louis's
grace ... He has a ranche in the Rocky
mountains where he has droves of cattle and
fifteen cowboys, and he has invited us all to go
and stay with him for a year, and promised us
plenty of horses to ride upon. He came upon
Jekyll and Hyde by accident when he was
travelling, and saw at once that there was a
good play to be made from it. He scouts the
idea that only one man should have the chance
of playing it.
... It is odd that now, the beginning of
April, we feel the cold much more than we did
in midwinter. We have had many showers
of snow, interspersed with thaws, and there is
a generally dirty look everywhere ; last night
it froze again, the thermometer was down to
six degrees above zero, and to-day it has never
been higher than twenty degrees ; and that is
really too much of a good thing on the seventh
of April. Louis has been a good deal in bed
this week, as much to keep himself warm as
for any more serious reason ; he cannot write
42 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
in this weather, and yet he wants to finish
some work before we start on our travels.
The doctor is anxious he should return here in
July and camp out in the woods ; if we do this
we may go to some seaside place for May and
June, during which months the woods are full
of ' black fly,' a worse plague here than the
mosquito.
Albany, April 15.
LOUIS and I left Saranac suddenly on
Friday. Louis had been wearying for
a change, and we had proposed to start on our
travels to-morrow ; Lloyd was in quarantine
with a cold, I was low and out of sorts, and
the weather simply detestable, rain and sun
by turns and the thermometer rushing about
between forty and fifty degrees. When on
Friday morning we found that Valentine and
the other girl had both colds, the fox and goat
and cabbage problem became so acute, that
there was nothing for it but flight. This was
decided at 9.30; and by 12.30 I had finished
packing and eaten dinner, and we started. Poor
Lou was driven about from room to room all
that time, avoiding the infecttds. He is looking
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 43
wonderfully well, and fatter than he has done
for long, so we have much reason to be thankful
for what Saranac has done for us. It certainly
is a wonderful place. . . .
New York, April 29.
" I ^HE heat has come suddenly and every-
J. thing is bursting out with a rush.
Yesterday I saw a magnolia in full bloom. I
think I have never so appreciated spring as
after this long and Arctic winter.
. . . Louis was very tired when we came here,
and I was anxious about him ; but he has quite
got over it and is remarkably well, out twice
a day, and walking (he says) sometimes as much
as nearly three miles. Dr C who attended
him at Newport last September, came to see
him last night, and was delighted with the
improvement in him ; says that if he stays three
years in such a climate as Saranac, he will be
a strong man. That is what G said too ;
but surely we shall get home next year, at all
events. Sometimes I am very homesick for my
' ain grey toun,' and don't feel as if I could stay
away much longer. . . . We have kept clear of
reporters, so far, and only few people know,
44 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
officially, that we are here. But we are kept
supplied with lovely flowers by Lou's admirers :
Mrs. Van R sent roses of all shades and
exquisite heliotrope, Miss C a basket
of white lilac, Mr. B roses again and
mignonette, and Mr. Mansfield (who plays
Jekyll and Hyde) brought a hamper full of
violets and lily-of-the-valley and dark roses.
I have tried to refuse invitations so far as
I can, but it is difficult, people are so kind.
Mr. I is coming this morning to take me
to church ; he is a bit of a character, and often
reminds me of George F in the old days,
when he used to take a bite out of seven biscuits
all at once, to make sure that they should not be
taken away from him. The last time I went to
church with Mr. I we were put into a seat
where there were no books. I whispered, ' I
have no hymn-book ' ; to which he calmly
replied, ' Never mind, I 've got Emerson's
poems in my pocket.' I said to him that I
would not go to church with him again unless
he behaved better : so he told Louis, ' I must
get your mother to go with me once more, if
only to put me on a solid basis.' . . . Well, this
time the sermon, which was really a lecture on
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 45
the poems of Matthew Arnold, wound up with
something like this : ' If you think Christ was
only a man, go and be a man like Him.' I
told Mr. I that he might take that for his
solid basis. . . .
Louis is beginning, however, to find all this
rather too much for him, and we hope to go out
of town to-morrow. We are bound first for
a place on the New Jersey coast called Manas-
quan ; beyond that we have no settled plans
whatever. If Fanny can find us a yacht in
San Francisco, we may go and sail about the
Pacific next winter ; but it is all a peradventure
at present, and our motto at present is ' Suffi-
cient to the day is ' no, I won't say ' the
z^7 thereof. ' You can finish it as you like.
Manasquati, May 6.
WE came here on Wednesday and were
all glad to get into the peace and quiet
of the country. The N. J. coast is very like
Holland, low and flat, and broken up by creeks
into which the sea runs, while a long spit of
land lies outside between us and the ocean. I
should prefer to be beside the real breaking
waves, but the sheltered cliffs are much safer for
46 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
boating ; and as Lloyd has hired a boat, and he
and Louis are constantly out in it, I am glad of
the safety. We are very comfortable and quite
primitive here, as it is out of the season and we
have the ' hotel ' to ourselves : by and by there
will be eighty guests in the house, and we
should not desire to be among them ! . . .
I am interested in the incubator, and weary to
hear how the chickens get on. That puts me
in mind of a book of (burlesque) fables Mr.
I lent us, and I must tell you one: 'An
Elephant one Day inadvertently put her Foot on
a Partridge and killed it. Near by she found
the nest with the callow Brood, upon which she
said, " Poor Things / I am so sorry for you,
being a Mother myself! " and immediately sat
down on the top of them. Moral. Thus we see
how sad it is to lose a Mother, and that it is
not every one who can run an Orphan Asylum'
I hope that Chloe may prove a better step-
mother than the elephant. . . .
I can still tell you nothing definite about our
plans. We have not heard anything from
Fanny, save that she is busy making inquiries ;
but I suppose we must settle soon where we are
at least to spend the summer.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 47
Manasquan, May 12.
THIS great and sudden change in our
plans has so far upset me that I can
scarcely write at all. G will have told
you, of course, that we have got a yacht, and
are to sail from San Francisco on the i5th
June for a seven months' cruise in the South
Seas. It seems almost too good to be true ;
and for Louis's sake I can't but be glad, for his
heart has so long been set upon it, and it must
surely be good for his health to have such a
desire granted, so, just as I went to Saranac in
fear and trembling for the winter, I now go to
meet the southern summer ... if it only suits
Louis as well as Saranac did, we shall have
every reason to be thankful.
I think I may promise to be home next
summer at the latest, as I shall want new
clothes by then, and I believe I could pay my
expenses out of the difference in price there
and here \
May 25.
THE other day we had a beautiful drive to
a place called Allaire, some eight miles
away. The woods and orchards on the way
48 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
were full of bloom and young foliage ; and I was
particularly struck with the numerous shades
of pink and crimson among the opening leaves.
Some of the trees looked, till we came quite
near, as if they were covered with rosy fruit.
The place itself was built by an Englishman
some sixty years ago as an iron-foundry, and
there are all the necessary buildings, many
cottages, and a church, scattered over a beauti-
ful meadow with the Manasquan river running
through it ; but the foundry did not pay, and
all has been allowed to fall into ruin and decay.
It is extremely picturesque and much valued
in this country of modern things, where ruins of
any sort are few and far between ; I believe it is
carefully kept up and cultivated with an artistic
neglect for the benefit of picnic parties and
sketches. Next day we made another expedi-
tion, and went crabbing. A small boy about
twelve rowed us to a spot under a bridge, where
we cast anchor ; then we each firmly tied a
lump of raw meat about the size of a break-
fast roll to the end of a piece of stout twine, and
let the ball down into the water till it touched
the ground, holding the twine tight enough to
feel any movement. I never imagined I should
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 49
catch anything, but I did : as soon as there is
a tug you pull up the line, and crab and meat
appear together. It was rather entertaining
and we got a great many, but they were all
small, unfortunately ; sometimes very large
ones fasten on to the meat, and these require
a certain amount of skilful management.
This week the weather has turned damp
and raw, and Louis has a threatening of cold ;
it will be too dreadful if this gets worse now
that I have just made all the arrangements for
starting for San Francisco on Thursday. We
are to have a compartment all to ourselves, and,
if possible, we shall travel straight through ;
of course it is a trying journey, but it will take
us, we hope, into a far better and more equable
climate than is to be found anywhere on this
side.
New York, June i.
FORTUNATELY Louis threw off the
cold, as he has done ever since we wentt
to Saranac, in a wonderful way : the sore throat
and fever disappeared, and there has been no
haemorrhage. The doctor says the way he
has picked up from it shows a wonderful
D
So FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
improvement since last autumn, when he
attended him just after our arrival ; and
he is strongly in favour, too, of this Pacific
cruise, and laughs at my dread of summer in
the tropics, assuring us that it is much less
trying than here. So I am much heartened
up, and the closeness of the weather in New
York makes us all look forward to our start
to-morrow morning. One little story before I
stop : Wednesday was ' Decoration Day ' here,
and I had a very good view of the march past
of the veterans of the war from the window of
the publishing office of a magazine whither Mr.
I took me. He said he would have to
introduce me to the editor, but that once it
was found out who I was, there would be no
more peace for Louis, so would I object to
being introduced as 'Mrs. Macpherson' from
Glasgow. I replied that I could not stand
that ; but if he would just say my name with-
out emphasising the ' son ' at the end, he
would find that I should be accepted as ' Mrs.
Stevens'; 'and of course,' I added, ''here I am
nothing without my son' My little plan, I
may tell you, worked admirably. . . . Don't
talk of difficulties about servants : you should
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 51
come out here to learn gratitude for our home
comforts. Lem, the waiter at Manasquan, was
a treasure in his way ; scrubbed floors, cooked
(and very well too), and did the washing and
ironing. I did not wonder, when I knew that
he did all this, that he had no time to pull his
sleeves down, or to do what our maids call
' tidy ' himself ; but this is how he addressed
Mrs. L : ' Just you sit down, my pretty
little dear, and don't make a fuss ! ' People
here talk of the pauper labour of the old country,
but we often wish we could get some of it,
and dorit we long for a shilling drive in a cab !
San Francisco, June 9.
HERE we are all safe after our long
journey. 1 1 was very tiring, and we have
not yet got over the effects ; but though Louis
gave us some frights on the way, and several
times we thought we should have to stop, it
always ended well. We were very comfortable
indeed as far as Chicago, where we had to wait
eight hours ; after that it was not quite so
luxurious, and the accommodation was very
limited. However we consoled ourselves by
thinking it excellent preparation for the yacht.
52 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
While crossing the Rockies, we rose to an
elevation of seven thousand and ten thousand
feet, but neither Louis nor I were affected by
it. Valentine, however, complained of some
difficulty in breathing, and her nose bled. Later
on, we were all somewhat upset, and had slight
haemorrhage : it is supposed to be the effect
of crossing the Alkali Plains, in the region of
Salt Lake, and is rather distressing. Valentine
was the worst, and I was the least affected by
it ; Louis came between in degree, but of
course in his case it was a much more serious
matter, and gave us some cause for alarm.
However, he was promptly sent to bed on our
arrival, and will be kept there for some days, so
the complete rest may put him right again.
We were met at Sacramento by Fanny, who
was looking so pretty in a new hat, that we
were grieved to find out afterwards that it
belonged to her daughter. Louis at first
thought of staying there to escape the reporters ;
but as there is far greater comfort to be found
here, we came straight on, and I am very glad
we did so.
We have been very busy ever since our
arrival, ordering clothes, etc., for the yacht and
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 53
the hot weather. These last consist of
chemises with a flounce round the lower edge,
and a holaku or loose sacque worn over it. I
am getting some of black and white lawn, and
others of muslin ; I think it will be comfortable
and cool, but I feel we at least I shall be
queer-looking customers in them !
As to letters, don't ' take on ' so much about
not getting them regularly ; don't you remember
in the old days at Colinton, what excitement
there used to be over a ' ship letter ' from John.
I shall be going on daily with a sort of journal
for you, and shall post it as I get a chance ; so
you may live in a constant state of expectation,
which Dr. Macleod says is the proper Christian
attitude. . . .
. . . P. S. I must add that we have just got
very nice letters of introduction to King Kala-
kaua of Hawaii, where we hope to call in the
yacht ; and in them, to my amazement, there
is special mention of me, and my very pedigree
given ! . . . But our plans are still somewhat
uncertain, as Louis has not yet seen Dr. M ,
the owner of the Casco ; and until he does, I
can tell you nothing definite. . . .
54 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
June 14.
E>UIS is better, and things are so far settled
that we hope to get him on board the
yacht to-morrow, as the air in the bay is cooler
and purer than on land. There is no prospect
of our starting, however, for some days yet ; we
have still to order in our stores for the cruise,
and to get coals in, and to try and remember
some at least of the many things we shall
want during the long voyage. Dr. M has
just been here to settle the final business
arrangements. He had heard that Louis had
a mother, and was not at all sure of allowing
an old woman to sail on his beloved yacht, so
he insisted on seeing me before he left. When
I came in I found a very stout man, with a
strong and humorous face, who sat still in his
chair and took a good look at me. Then he
held out his hand, with the remark, ' You 're
a healthy-looking woman ! ' so I am to be
allowed on board, as he thinks I am good for
a seven months' trip. He built the yacht, he
told us, for his health, as he was getting so
stout that some means of reduction were neces-
sary ; and going to sea has pulled him down
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 55
sixty pounds in weight. I said, ' But we don't
want it to have that effect on Mr. Stevenson,
or there would be nothing left of him ! ' How-
ever, he assured us it would have quite the
opposite effect on Louis ; and turning to Fanny,
he added, * The yacht is the apple of my eye,
you may think your husband loves you, but I
can assure you that I love my yacht a great
deal better, and I am just afraid that you will
run away with her and never bring her back.
Remember, if you do, I '11 be after you with a
revenue cutter, and when I catch you . . . ! '
You would like this place, fruit and vegetables
are so plentiful and cheap. You can get an
immense basket of peaches for a shilling, but
though they are very good, I have tasted them
with a finer flavour at home. Fanny tells me,
however, that these are only the ' valley '
peaches, and the finer ones, the ' strawberry '
peaches, come a little later.
I have been a good deal about San Francisco,
but have not had time to go far afield. One
day I visited ' China- town,' and found it very
curious and interesting ; unfortunately our
guide spoke so little English that he could
not explain things to us. He took us into two
56 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
temples, very dark and quiet, and full of beauti-
ful carvings and embroideries. We were enter-
tained to a real Chinese tea in a room adjoining
one of the temples, and they would take no
payment for it. We also saw a table set for a
large dinner at a Chinese restaurant : it looked
exactly as if intended for a dolls' party, with
several tiny plates to each guest, one with a
spoonful of sauce in it, another with a morsel
of ginger, etc. We did not know what most
of the things were. Even the fruit was on the
same scale, and we could not persuade ourselves
that it was intended for human beings, and not
for dolls. ... I quite liked the look of the
Chinese that I saw, and they are capital workers.
One, 'Yee Lee/ has made our hot weather
garments beautifully, though he scarcely took
any measurements, and I was sure they would
be all wrong. But they have no idea of not
crushing things, and my nice muslin holakus
were brought home rolled into a wisp, with a
string wound tightly round them.
We have been on board the Casco, and are
charmed with her, but I shall wait to describe
her till we have started on our journey. Louis
could not fix on our route till he had talked it
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 57
over with the captain ; but he has now given
up the Galapagos Islands, as to go thither
would keep us too long near the Equator, and
we are to go first to the Marquesas, and after-
wards to Tahiti and where else I am not sure.
As the Casco is an American yacht, we must
hoist the Stars and Stripes, but we shall fly
the Union Jack as well, and likely a yacht-club
burgee also. Louis and Lloyd are both living
on board, and we are making all haste to get
in the stores and sundries.
June 25.
ON LY a line to tell you we are all running
hither and thither, as busy as bees,
finding sometimes that too many cooks spoil
the broth, but on the whole making progress.
It is not so easy to lay in all the innumerable
things that may be required by eleven people
during seven months away from shops. Still
one way or another, we have got through it.
On Saturday Valentine and I went to the Casco
and unpacked the clothing of our whole party,
and stored it in the lockers under the sofas and
beds ; the boxes are to be left here till our
return. We go on board ourselves either to-
58 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
day or to-morrow. We have all been vacci-
nated as a preliminary, save Louis ; and we are
taking some lymph with us, so that Fanny can
operate on him should we come across any
smallpox, as the doctor thinks it need only be
done in that case. I may write a line from
the yacht before we sail, but I look on this as
my farewell letter. God grant we may have
good news of each other, and a happy meeting
in His good time. Take care of yourself for
my sake. . . .
PART II
THE CRUISE OF THE 'CASCO'
[The reference figures refer to the notes at end of book]
Yacht ' Casco,' San Francisco Bay,
June 27, 1888 (7.30 p.m.).
HERE we all are on the yacht lying off
San Francisco at the North Beach,
near Telegraph Hill, and ready for an early
start to-morrow morning. The tug Kate
came for us at three this afternoon and towed
us from Oakland across the Bay to this
anchorage ; and another tug is to come at five
o'clock to-morrow morning to take us through
the Golden Gate.
I write a hurried line to go back by the tug
in the morning just to give the latest possible
report of us. But I find it difficult to manage,
with the preparations for making everything
fast for crossing the bar going on around and
overhead.
59
60 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Just as we were starting a train passed close
to us and saluted us with three whistles, but to
our regret it passed so quickly that there was
no time to respond. However, we dipped our
flag three times to a government cutter that we
met in crossing the Bay, and they answered us
at once ; and some other yachts and a steamer
saluted us, and we had the satisfaction of re-
sponding. Belle and Mrs. W came down
to the wharf to wave a farewell to us, and
some newspaper people came off in a boat.
The yacht-club, of which Louis has been made
a member, wished to have a procession of
yachts to escort us through the Gate ; but a
friend who knows Louis's dislike of fuss put a
stop to it. Fanny and I are sorry, for it would
have been a pretty and cheerful sight, and as
no one would have come on board, Louis would
not have been disturbed.
We have lovely flowers in the cabin, the
gifts of many friends : one beautiful and very
large magnolia is just opening in the centre of
the table. The manager of the Occidental
Hotel also sent us a basketful of fruit. Here is
a list of the contents to give you an idea of the
variety. There are apples, pears, three kinds
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 61
of plums, figs, grapes, cherries, brambles,
strawberries, bananas, huckleberries, oranges,
currants, apricots, and tomatoes. That is not
bad, is it ?
How strange it will seem to be two months
out of reach of letters and papers. I think I
am more to be pitied than you, for I may have
a chance to send a letter, but I cannot possibly
receive one till we reach Tahiti. And even
then, as the mails go so seldom, you had better
send none there after receiving this, but
address direct to Honolulu, c/o the American
Consulate.
Isn't it wonderful that I am going to see all
these strange, out-of-the-way places ? I cannot
yet realise it. I remember so well repeating
as a little girl at school :
' Full many are the beauteous isles,
Unseen by human eye,
That, sleeping 'mid the ocean's smiles,
In sunny silence lie.'
I always longed so much to see them, and I
can hardly believe that all those childish long-
ings are to come true, By the by, Louis
would like you to keep all the letters I write
on the voyage for his benefit, as he may want
62 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
to refer to them if ever he brings out a book
on the 'Cruise of the Casco* He has still a
little cold, and we are all longing for warmer
weather. We may get more than we care for
of that, before I write again ; but the wind has
been high and very cold to-day, and some on
board begin already to show signs of sea-
sickness. Once more, good-bye ! . . .
Yacht ' Casco,' Sunday, July i.
I LOOK on this as my first real letter of the
cruise, as the other note that went ashore
by the pilot-boat was posted at San Francisco
and does not count.
This is our fourth day at sea, and all goes
well, I am thankful to say. Everybody was
at lunch to-day except Fanny : she and Lloyd
and Valentine spent most of their time during
the first three days in bed, and even the captain
did not appear at meals for two days, so that
Louis and I had them all by ourselves. I
missed only the first breakfast, and that was
because I had been on deck for two hours and
was not able to face red herrings and mutton
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 63
chops after that. I had got up at six o'clock
to see the scenery outside the Golden Gate :
the coast-line is very beautiful, but the morning
light not the best to see it by. I had already
admired Tamalpais much more from the inside
of the bay, and the view from the Cliff House
is much finer than the view of it.
We were towed out by the Pelican. There
was a heavy swell outside, and we were amused
to watch the little steamer first lifted high
above us, and then, as the wave passed, she, and
even the mountains of the coast, were shut out
entirely. Our vessel seemed very small among
those enormous waves, and I felt nervous when
I saw how she heeled over ; however, I was
told it was all right, and I am already getting
accustomed to it. The swell, too, is beginning
to go down.
I must try to describe the vessel that is to be
our home for so long. From the deck you step
down into the cockpit, which is our open-air
drawing-room. It has seats all round, nicely
cushioned, and we sit or lie there most of the
day. The compass is there, and the wheel, so
the man at the wheel always keeps us com-
pany. Here, also, is the companion, and at
64 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
the bottom of the stair on the right-hand side
is the captain's room. Straight ahead is the
main- or after-cabin, a nice bright place with a
skylight and four port-holes. There are four
sofas that can be turned into beds if need be,
and there are lockers under them in which our
clothes are stored away. Above and behind
each sofa is a berth concealed by white lace
curtains on brass rods, and in these berths we
three women are laid away as on shelves each
night to sleep. There is a table fastened to the
floor in the centre of the cabin, covered with
crimson Utrecht velvet. The sofas are uphol-
stered to match, and the carpet is crimson
Brussels. There is one large, heavy swivel-
chair, and opposite the entrance is a mirror let
into the wall, with two small shelves under it.
On each side of this mirror is a door. The one
to the right leads, through a small dressing-room
with a fixed basin, to Lloyd's cabin, and beyond
that again is the forward cabin, or dining-room.
The door to the left opens into another small
dressing-room, and beyond this is Louis's
sleeping-room. It is very roomy, with both a
bed and a sofa in it, so that he will be very
comfortable ; and at night, when we are all in
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 65
bed, all the port-holes and skylights and doors
are left open for the sake of air.
The dining-room has a long table and
chairs, two mirrors at the end, and between the
doors a very ugly picture of fruits and cake.
Louis would fain cover it up if we could spare
a flag with which to do it. Two doors at the
further end lead to the pantry and galley, and
beyond these are the men's quarters, which I
have not yet explored.
Tuesday, July 3.
SUNDAY was cloudy and squally, but
Louis was able to read a short service
in the cockpit at 4 P.M., which was the time
that suited best for the men. Yesterday was
delightful, and very much warmer than it had
been yet We are nearing the tropics, and
are beginning to feel it. We saw one whale
the day we sailed, and four pilot-birds 1 have
followed us all the way. It is delightful to
watch their graceful flight ; to see them alight-
ing on the waves and walking along for a few
steps, leaving little white footprints behind
them on the water. Louis says that they follow
the vessel for ' grease,' and that they suppose
E
66 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
the yacht is an immense bird, and that we
are the fleas upon its back ! This morning a
flying-fish came on board, in the midst of a
shower of spray, the first to visit us ; and last
night we had our first game at whist, the
captain and I against Louis and Lloyd. It
was a close fight, but we were beaten at last
by a single point on the rubber.
Fanny, Valentine, and I have begun to knit
socks for Louis and Lloyd. It is quite the best
kind of work for shipboard, easy and inactive.
I began mine on Saturday, and am near the
heel already. Last night the weather was so
delightful that we all stayed on deck till past
ten ; the water was brilliantly phosphorescent
and the air was mild as milk. We only
lacked a moon. The sea here is quite as bright
a blue as the Mediterranean, but it must have
stolen some of its colour from the sky, for that
is very much paler than it seemed from the
land. It is the colour of turquoise, with that
under-tint of green in it. Are we not well off
with a carpet of sapphire and a roof of tur-
quoise ? Adieu for to-day.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 67
Thursday ', July 5.
"\ 7ESTERDAY we had a new sensation a
A calm. The sails flapped idly, and we
only made about two knots an hour ; the sun
was very hot, but we could generally find shade
behind one or other of the sails. The sea was
beautifully smooth, and we had the rare
pleasure of a distant horizon. Usually we
seem to be shut in by the waves.
We all had a very active fit. Fanny, Valen-
tine, and I took to making pyjamas and jackets
for Louis of thin flannel, to be ready for the
hot weather, and the captain, not to be out-
done, began some new covers for the boat-
cushions. He is a ' palm worker,' which
means that he has his thimble, or its substitute,
in the palm of his hand, fastened in place by a
leather strap. During the day I had a good
long walk outside of the cockpit, which was
quite a treat. Louis won't let me attempt it
unless the sea is very smooth, because the
passage is narrow and the bulwarks not very
high. He and Fanny think me much too
adventurous, and declare I will fall over.
Fanny said to the captain one day, 'What
would you do if Mrs. Stevenson were to fall
68 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
overboard ? ' and the captain, who loves a joke,
solemnly replied, ' Put it in the log ! ' This
morning Valentine tossed Fanny's cushion up
the companion stairs and very nearly sent it
overboard. Louis asked, ' Would you have put
that in the log if it had gone over ? ' ' Yes, if
you thought it worth while to send Valentine
after it. . . . '
I must give you the names of the captain
and the crew, for the variety of nationalities
is amusing. The captain is Albert Otis,
American. The crew are : Charles Olsen,
Russian; John Lassen, Swede; Fred Schroder,
Swede ; Charles Wallin, Finn ; Antone Cousina
(steward and cook), Japanese ; and Valentine
Borch (cabin-boy), Swiss.
You see we would have needed to have a
cabin-boy if Valentine had not taken charge of
the cabins, and the captain wanted to put her
name on the ship's list and make her sign
articles, but Louis did not see the necessity,
and would not permit it.
July 15.
I HAVE been long without writing, but at
present there is not much to tell. We
are sailing onward with varying speed and
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 69
comfort ; have accomplished two hundred and
six miles in twenty-four hours, and have fallen
as low as thirty-five in the same time, when
we encountered calms, head-seas, or strong
easterly currents. For a day or two we were
in the 'doldrums,' which means the calms be-
tween the north and south trade-winds ; but
now we are fairly in the latter, blowing from
the south-east, and are making steady progress.
We expected to cross the line before this, and
each of us bet a dollar on certain days ; but
Lloyd's, Fanny's, and mine are all past, and
this is Louis's, so we begin to fear that he will
lose also. However, the captain hopes that
we may reach the Marquesas some day this
week, and then, I trust, I may be able to
despatch this letter to you, as I know you will
be wearying to get some news of us. I mean
to send it off at once, and to send future epistles
also in instalments, so that even if you get
several letters together (as I think it probable
you may), you will be able to despatch them
round the family one by one, with a week's
interval between them. This will give you a
better chance of getting them back promptly,
and will not surfeit my readers !
70 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
We have had some very hot weather since
last I wrote. The thermometer has been up to
eighty-nine degrees in the cabin, but is more
often about seventy-four degrees, and of course
it is hotter on deck. Fanny and Valentine have
taken to mumus and holakus? but I am putting
off as long as I can. So far I have been
content to discard all woollen garments and
stiff or fitted bodices, and I often wear boots
without stockings. Louis goes about in shirt
and trousers, and with bare feet : he and Lloyd
got their faces and arms so tanned at the
beginning that they must now be surely sun-
proof. He is up the first in the morning, and
is generally the last to go to bed. What do
you think of that ?
Our pilot-birds have deserted us, but we now
have plenty of ' boatswain-birds,' 3 so called from
their curious tails, formed of two very long
white feathers tipped with scarlet, which are
supposed to resemble a boatswain's marline-
spike, though I do not see it myself.
I have seen many flying-fish now, and love
to watch them. They look so happy flitting
about in the water that one longs to join them
in their play. As to our occupations, I have
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 71
finished a pair of socks for Louis. We are
reading Gibbon's Decline and Fall, and are
now in the second volume. Most of it I have
read aloud, as reading in the open air was too
much for Louis. We cannot stay on deck
in the heat of the day, but it is much cooler
below ; though once or twice I have been glad
to take a siesta. Louis has given up his state-
room because it was too airless, and now sleeps
in the fourth berth in the main cabin ; so we
have turned his room into a dressing-room, and
its size permits us to start our indiarubberbath
and to have a salt-water ' tub ' every morning.
The sailors all have coffee at 6 A.M., as well
as any of us who wish for it. Breakfast is at
eight. I am generally up at seven, and some-
times earlier ; once I was even out at five to
see the sunrise. After breakfast we all go
on deck till Valentine has done up the cabin
and made it into a drawing-room once more.
After that, we ' decline and fall ' off, or write
and work. At twelve is lunch, and at five
dinner. After dinner we go on deck for the
sunset, which is the great spectacle of the day.
We have had some magnificent ones, but they
are about as variable in the tropics as else-
72 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
where, and do not always 'come off.' Then
we play two rubbers at whist the captain
and I are now eight rubbers ahead ; and after-
wards we put out the lamps and go on deck to
let the cabin cool before going to bed. The
evenings are generally delicious, the stars
bright, and the air heavenly. We saw the
new moon first on Thursday, when it was
three days old, but looked very large ; though,
as Valentine said, when I remarked upon its
size, 'perhaps it was born large.' It maybe
the way in the tropics ! On Friday we had
our first peep at the Southern Cross, but
unfortunately it was just ahead of the vessel,
and partly hidden by the sails, so we cannot
be said to have seen it properly yet.
Our little vessel sails splendidly. It is
wonderful how she picks her way among the
heavy seas and ships so few ; but we do
get a fair sprinkling of spray now and then.
Last Sunday Lou got a regular shower-bath
in the cockpit, and had to change all his
clothes ; and I had two lesser ones, one
through the skylight in the cabin, and another
in the cockpit, one day when it was very
stormy. Once, also, when I was sitting in the
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 73
captain's chair, I was sent spinning across the
cabin, and struck my head upon the sofa. But
see the advantage of a hard Scottish head ! I
was not hurt in the least, though Louis insisted
on banishing the chair, lest another time it
might be more serious.
Friday, July 20.
IN port at last ! We are in anchorage off
the island of Nuka-hiva. The voyage
has been most comfortable and pleasant, yet
I cannot tell you how thrilling it was to hear
Louis's call of ' Land ! ' at five o'clock this
morning. We fairly tumbled into our dressing-
gowns, and rushed on deck. We could see
two islands, Hua-houna, which has no good
anchorage, and Nuka-hiva, our destination. It
was with trembling interest that we watched
the lofty mountains, no more than a grey haze
at first, gradually growing distinct as we drew
nearer and nearer, till at last the green masses
of foliage, the beach, and the curving bay,
came fully into sight. ' An unknown land, to
us at least ; what shall we find there, what
shall we meet with ? ' was, I believe, the
74 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
unspoken question in all our minds. Very
soon it was to be answered.
Immediately we dropped anchor, a German
cotton-grower, whose name is Regler, came on
board. He promised to help us in getting
fresh food cocoa-nuts, chickens, and milk
as this was our first and most pressing need
after the voyage, and took the captain on
shore with him at once for this purpose. We
must be content in the meantime to look and
wonder. But now this letter must be closed,
and I will keep all our new experiences for
the next.
Yacht ' Casco,' Anaho Bay, Nuka-hi-va?
Marquesas Islands ', July 22.
THIS, at last, is my beau-ideal! The
climate is simply perfect, much more
delightful than I could have believed possible
so near the Equator. The sun is certainly
hot, but there is always a delightful breeze,
and it is never in the least sultry or airless.
I fancy we have arrived at a fortunate time, as
the rainy season is just over, and everything is
looking new-made and beautiful how beautiful
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 75
it is hard to make you realise. We all feel as
if we wanted to ' draw in our chairs ' and stay
here a considerable time ; even the captain,
who was inclined to think the whole expedition
quixotic, is charmed. We have an awning
over the deck which shades us from the sun,
and we spend our whole time when not on
shore in the cockpit. At last I have open-air
life enough to satisfy even me !
Now I must go back to Friday, when I
finished my last letter. It was hardly closed
when our new German friend returned with
the chief, who was to take our letters to the
post-office in the next bay. His name is
Tai-pi-ki-kano, which, being interpreted, is
' High-water and mean.' 5 He is a fine-looking
young fellow, fully six feet tall, with very good
features and beautiful teeth, and such a pleasant
smile. He seemed to be delighted with the
vessel and everything he saw, but our inter-
course had to be limited to laughing and
shaking hands. This latter mode of expressing
satisfaction appeared to greatly please him, for
he solemnly shook hands all round three times
before he went away. He was quite nicely
dressed in white linen trousers and coat.
76 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
While he was still on board, a large canoe
with six or seven natives arrived, bringing
cocoa-nuts, oranges, and bananas for sale. We
went on deck to see them, and it was a strange
and, to us, rather alarming sight. They were
in every stage of undress : two most respect-
able-looking old gentlemen wore nothing but
small red and yellow loin-cloths and very
cutty sarks on top. There were even some
who wore less ! The display of legs was
something we were not accustomed to; but
as they were all tattooed in most wonderful
patterns, it really looked quite as if they were
wearing open-work silk tights. 6 There was
a good deal of bargaining about the price of
the fruits, and the wag of the party, who did
most of the talking, said it was certainly a very
fine vessel, but there seemed to be very little
money on board !
Louis took them all over the yacht, through
the after- and fore - cabins and the galley,
and then up by the forecastle companion.
They followed him in Indian file, making
strange sounds of satisfaction and pleasure
all the time. Most of them were dis-
tinctly good-looking, but there was one with
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 77
a very strange, unpleasant face, and an immense
mouth that at once suggested cannibalism to
us all.
When the chief went on shore, Captain Otis
and Lloyd went with him. He took them into
several houses and introduced them to the in-
mates, who gave them always the kindliest of
welcomes, and treated them to gallons of fresh
cocoa-nut milk. In the meantime, almost as
soon as they left us, there arrived two other
canoes, and we had presently fourteen natives
swarming over the deck. We women were a
little frightened, but we made signs that we
had no money to buy anything, and they soon
went away, quite satisfied and apparently not
at all surprised. We are told that their own
women hold a very inferior position, and are
permitted to share very few of the privileges
enjoyed by the men. Only very lately has the
last tabu been removed that forbade the women
to walk on roads which men had made, or
to use a bridge which men had built ; they
were compelled, if they desired to cross over,
to do so only by wading a creek. Even now
they are not allowed to ride in a saddle be-
longing to a native, though they may use a
78 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
foreigner's ; and as there is only one person in
the island Mr. Regler who possesses a side-
saddle, you may imagine if it is in constant
request. In some of the other islands, more-
over, a woman is not allowed to eat meat ; the
men form themselves into ' clubs ' or parties,
where all the pork and other meat is consumed.
Would you not think that they had taken a
hint from civilised society ? . . . 7
Yesterday we had a delightful day. Lloyd,
Valentine, and I went ashore at n A.M., taking
bathing-suits and luncheon with us. We found
a grove of palm-trees for a dressing-room, and
had a delicious bathe, which reminded me that
it was twenty-six years since I had ventured on
such a pleasure ; but here the water is delight-
fully warm, and we can stay in as long as we
like without risk of chill. After bathing, we
lunched on sardines, biscuits, and beer, and
a native brought us some cocoa-nuts and
oranges, which are a green kind, very juicy
and delicious ; by the time they are yellow
they are quite dried up. In return we gave
him some of our biscuits and beer. The
natives are very fond of hard ship's biscuits.
They told us that while we were bathing a
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 79
canoe filled with fruit went off to the yacht
and offered to barter the whole for ten ship's
biscuits. But the French, to whom these
islands belong, have forbidden this kind of
exchange.
We saw many of the women while we were
on shore, and some of them are very pretty.
They came round us and saluted us, saying
' Ka-ow,' * which means ' how do you do ? '
1 good-bye,' ' thank you,' and many other things,
all implying an expression of courtesy. There
was much laughing, and many hand-shakes
were exchanged between us. They wore light-
coloured holakus with long trains, a very pretty
garment, in which they looked most graceful ;
their feet were bare, but tattooed in such beau-
tiful patterns that they had the appearance of
wearing open-work silk stockings. They tattoo
their legs all over, and Fanny and I feel very
naked with our own plain white legs when
we are bathing. The girls, we are told, marry
exceedingly young. Our German friend, Mr.
Regler, for instance, has a native wife whom
he married when she was fourteen : she is only
eighteen now, and is the mother of two children.
* More correctly written 'Kaoha,'
8o FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
I AM continuing this letter on Tuesday, as
on Sunday I was interrupted, and could
get no further. The French gendarmes I
think I have already reminded you that these
islands belong to France came on board for
a visit of inspection, and to arrange about
shooting licences. Both the captain and
steward have rifles, and we are told that there
are wild chickens 8 on the island that are par-
ticularly good eating. At present all the fresh
meat we get is pork, which is delicious when
roasted, as it has a peculiarly fine flavour. The
pigs are fed on cocoa-nuts, and are quite tame
in fact, they are household pets, running
about with the dogs, and even going with them
to the houses for supper. 9
This morning we had a visit from a much
more important chief than ours I mean, than
Taipi-ki-kino of Anaho, of whom I have already
spoken. This other was Kooamua, chief of
Hatiheu, in the next bay. He is very intelli-
gent, and went all round the yacht, looking
at things with a really critical appreciation :
everything was carefully and thoughtfully
examined. He was greatly pleased with the
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 81
captain's rifle, did not care much for Lloyd's
fiddle ; but the thing that charmed him most
was the typewriter. He went off at last, very
happy, with a Casco ribbon for his hat, a piece
of plug tobacco in his pocket, and his name and
that of every member of his family printed by
himself with the typewriter. He looked such
a mild and benevolent old gentleman, that it is
difficult to believe he was till quite recently a
cannibal. He is now a wealthy and important
man, with a large European house, in which
he entertains the governor ; and the French do
nothing that concerns the natives without con-
sulting him. 10
The typewritten ' family tree ' proved to be
so popular that the very same evening our
own chief sent us a list of his family to be
written out in the same way. Kooamua, how-
ever, remained the only one to try the machine
for himself. What children they are, happy
and contented, with no wants that nature
cannot supply. I wonder if we are wise or
kind to rouse them to all the cares and
anxieties of civilised life. My dear husband
used always to say that dogs had much
happier lives than ours, and these Kanakas
F
82 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
seem as free from every conscious care and
responsibility as ever a dog could be. Their
conduct to each other and to strangers, so far
as kindliness and courtesy are concerned, is
much more Christ-like than that of many pro-
fessing Christians ; but I am told that although
the Roman Catholic missionaries have been
teaching them for a number of years, they
have produced very little real effect, save that
the islanders have ceased to worship idols.
Fanny has secured the last that remained in
this bay, a very uncouth attempt at a human
figure carved in wood, and in rather a decayed
state. 1
11
July 28.
THIS is mail -day, and I must finish
quickly, as we are all going on shore
early to spend the whole day on land. We
are going to bathe, and will take our lunch
with us.
Yesterday a native dance was got up for
our benefit. None of the dancing - women
appeared, but five men, nicely dressed in
shirts and trousers, danced together with
great spirit and grace. The music was pro-
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 83
vided by a drum, made out of an old tin box.
Many of the steps reminded me of a Highland
reel, but were curiously mixed up with cali-
sthenic, and even gymnastic, exercises : the
hands in particular were used very gracefully,
and they often took off their hats and waved
them to and fro. But they also climbed
on each other's shoulders, and did other
strange things. 12 After dancing for some time,
they sang songs to us in a curious, low, weird
kind of crooning. Altogether it was a strange
sort of afternoon party !
When we came away, we were closely
followed by canoes containing the dancers
who had just been entertaining us, and who
now proposed to perform again for the benefit
of the two sailors who had been left in charge
of the Casco while we were on shore. So we
had a second dance and song on our own
deck. We were also accompanied by some of
the women, who had expressed a wish to
visit the yacht ; the chief's wife, a tall, digni-
fied person, and five others, who stayed on
board with us about an hour. The mirrors
were the things that delighted them most ;
and this little trait of sex greatly delighted
84 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Louis, as none of the men had taken any
notice of them at all. One of the ladies had
her feet and legs tattooed in really the most
wonderful patterns ; she was quite pleased
when we admired them, and gave us a most
liberal view of them ! At the same time, I
must in justice add that they were all perfectly
well-behaved and lady-like, though some of
the books of travel say that their manners are
such that it is impossible for a lady even to
land on the island. 13
I have been wearying sorely to hear what
you all are about. . . . Before we reached this
place I got so home-sick for news of you, that
I brought out my last budget of letters and
read them over again. It was ' piper's news,' M
no doubt, but was better than none ; and I
made believe it was mail-day, and tried to be
content. Once a month we send our letters
to the post-office in the next bay, but how
long they stay there before going further we
cannot find out. I quite expect you will
receive three or four at once. . . .
P.S. Our sailors prove to be nice, good-
natured fellows, very fond of talking and
being talked to, even when at the wheel.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 85
Fanny was apt to transgress in this respect, so
whenever it was at all stormy, the captain
used to remark, ' Please don't talk to the man
at the wheel ; to-day I want him to steer.'
Fred, one of the Swedes, was delighted when
he heard we would be going to Honolulu,
as he has a brother there whom he has not
seen for eleven years.
Anaho Bay, Nuka-hiva, August 2.
MY DEAR CUMMY, Here we are in
a little bay surrounded by green
mountains, on which sheep are grazing, and
there are birds very like our own ' blackies '
singing in the trees. If it were not for the
groves of cocoa-nut palms, we might almost
fancy ourselves in our own dear land. But
the climate here is simply perfect. Of course
it is hot, but there are always fresh breezes,
and yesterday I climbed a hill as high as Kirk
Yetton,* and was not in the least over-tired.
I doubt whether I could do that at home.
* Kirk Yetton, or, as some write it, Caer Ketton, is the second
highest point of the Pentlands, just above Swanston Cottage, where
the Stevensons had for many years spent the summer. The scars
which distinguish the hill are called the ' Seven Sisters,' or ' the
Sclidders. '
86 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
We have our principal meal at twelve o'clock,
and spend the after-part of the day on shore
bathing, gathering shells, knitting, or reading.
Our Japanese cook and steward just sets out
the table with cold meats, fruit, and cake, so
that we can take our other meal at any hour in
the evening that suits us.
Fanny and I are dressed like the natives,
in two garments, one being a sort of long
chemise with a flounce round the edge, and
an upper garment something like a child's
pinafore, made with a yoke, but fastening in
front. As we have to wade to and from the
boat in landing and coming back, we discard
stockings, and on the sands we usually go
barefoot entirely. Louis wears only a shirt
and trousers with the legs and arms rolled up
as far as they will go, and he is always bare-
footed. You will therefore not be surprised to
hear that we are all as red as lobsters. It is
a strange, irresponsible, half-savage life, and I
sometimes wonder if we shall ever be able to
return to civilised habits again.
The natives are very simple and kindly
people. The Roman Catholic priests have
persuaded them to give up their constant wars
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 87
and the practice of cannibalism, though only
within recent years. They are quite ready to
go to church, too, when the priests ask them
to do so, but here I think their religious
feeling stops. Or rather, perhaps, it never
begins ! One of the mission priests told us
that teaching them religion seems about as
effectual as trying to mould water. The
expression made me think of ' Unstable as
water, thou shalt not excel.'
Louis has learnt a good many words of the
language, and with the help of signs can
contrive to carry on a conversation, but I
have stuck fast with two words, 'Ka-oha'
which means ' how do you do ? ' ' thank you,'
'good-bye,' and I am not quite sure how much
else, and ' Mitai' meaning good, nice, pretty,
kind. I don't expect to get beyond these, but
it is wonderful how much one can express
with them.
Louis is looking so well, and has even got a
little fatter since we have been staying in this
lovely, quiet spot. He sends you his love, and
bids me tell you that he is just living over all
the books you used to read to him. For
instance, this morning, when the juice of a
88 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
cocoa-nut effervesced like ginger-beer, he
called out delightedly, ' Oh, I remember
Cummy telling me of that long ago, and I
thought it so wonderful. And only fancy that
poor little sick chap she nursed ever seeing it
actually and truly for himself! '
Anaho Say, Nuka-hiva, July 29.
SINCE* I finished my last letter to you on
Friday we have had a most exciting
time. You must understand that Fanny and
I took the letters to the village, and then went
to our usual bathing-place, to hunt for shells,
bathe, and amuse ourselves generally. About
4.30 the boat came to take us off. As we
were returning to the Casco, we remarked
with some surprise that she had changed her
position ; but our thoughts were diverted by
Mr. Regler making signs that we were to call
at the village before going on. There we
found a strange chief, Kapiau, chief of
Atuatua, who wanted to pay a visit to the
yacht. He was young, very pleasant-looking,
and well dressed in white shirt and trousers,
black alpaca coat and black tie. He asked us
* Letters to Miss Balfour resumed.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 89
to take him first to the east and opposite end
of the bay from our bathing-place, to fetch a
present that he had brought for us. We
found his wife and three brothers-in-law in
charge of the 'present,' which was a live (and
lively) pig, and fourteen fine cocoa-nuts ; but
by the time we had got them all into the boat
we were getting very uneasy about the yacht.
We could see that she was moving out sea-
wards, and worse than that, seemed to be
drifting towards the most rocky and dangerous
part of the shore. There appeared to be no
one on deck, and nothing was being done.
We were in a great fright, and got up sail and
hurried after her as fast as we could ; and as
soon as we were within hearing, one of our
men shouted out, ' You 're drifting ashore ! '
We were all quickly bundled on deck, and
found the captain, with a very white face,
giving orders all round. We took the visitors
down to the cabin, and kept them occupied
there and I am not sure that it was not the
most agonising task ; we could hear the bustle
on deck, and could follow all that was being
done. Another anchor was dropped, a sail
hoisted, and a rope attached to the yacht, and
9 o FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
some of the sailors getting into the boat
hauled her out from the cliff. Mr. Regler saw
from the shore that something was wrong, and
came off in hot haste to help. He was for-
merly a sailor, so he was of great use in assist-
ing to save the yacht. The chief and his
three brothers-in-law and Lloyd were called
up to lend a hand at the windlass, to get up
the first anchor, which had fouled, and so was
the cause of all the trouble. Fortunately the
water is deep close up to the cliffs at that
point, and their efforts were in time ; no
damage resulted, and in about two hours, we
were comfortably settled in a new and better
anchorage, in the centre of the bay, just
opposite the mouth of it.
At first it had seemed a terrible encum-
brance to have so many visitors at such a time,
but we were soon very thankful for their help,
and indeed should have been very badly off
without them. We gave them each a glass of
wine, some hard biscuits, half a dollar, and a
piece of tobacco to carry away with them, and
they were more than content. It appeared
that the captain was at supper below, the two
sailors at supper on deck. Louis also was on
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 91
deck, and I think this was the strangest thing
of all, for he was admiring the view of a
peculiar rocky peak among the mountains, and
it struck him that he had not seen it since the
day that we entered the bay. Yet he never
took fright! It was most providential that we
happened to come off just at the time, and in
time to warn them.
The strange chief was greatly taken up with
my gloves, which he called ' British tattoo-
ing.' He smelt them, and made me put them
off and on more than once. He was especially
delighted with the buttons, and took it much
to heart that one had come off. He also
admired my sateen dress, and thinks ' shaped '
dresses much prettier than holakus.
Yesterday we had more visitors, who
brought us a pair of fowls, and a bunch of
oranges. We entertained them to ship's-
biscuit, jam, and pineapple syrup and water.
Yesterday, also, we made acquaintance for the
first time with one of the Roman Catholic
missionaries, Pere Simeon Delmas. Louis
came on him in the middle of the village,
and we wished Lloyd had thought of photo-
graphing the meeting, as it must have been
92 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
ve.ry picturesque. The background was an
open-fronted native hut. Louis was dressed
in his usual airy style, shirt and trousers, with
sleeves and ' legs ' turned up as far as he can
get them to go, and bare feet ; the Pere in his
long, black woollen gown. The two advanced
to meet each other, each with his straw hat in
his hand. Louis begged him to come on
board to supper, and we all enjoyed the con-
versation. He gave Louis a lot of informa-
tion about the natives, quite recognised their
many good points, and told us that the bishop
who ordained him said, ' You are going
among a people in some ways more civilised
than we are.' He told us, also, what we had
heard already, that Bishop Dordillon, who
lived to a very great age, and only died here
last year, after nearly forty years of missionary
work, did an immense amount of good : got
the people to give up war and cannibalism 15
and to accept Christianity. But Pere Simeon
added : ' They have no spiritual life, nor
any conception of it. You see they have no
cares, and that is what leads to the higher life.'
To-day a great misfortune has befallen us :
Lloyd's camera has fallen overboard. It had
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 93
been left overnight on shore, and was brought
out this morning ; and while being handed up
from the boat, slipped out of its strap and
went straight to the bottom. Lloyd has taken
a few pictures, but it is a serious loss coming
so early in our trip. . . .
Thursday ', July 3 1 .
WE have all been talking much of Edin-
burgh, and thinking of the exodus
that is taking place just now. ... I only wish
you could come here for the holidays : what
bathing you would have ! And, after all, you
would not feel so very strange in these
surroundings. Did I tell you that there are
sheep on the hills that look like home ? and
when we first arrived there were birds that
sang delightfully, very like our own beautiful
' blackies ' ; but they have now closed their
concerts for the season. By moonlight, when
we cannot distinguish the foliage, we could
fancy ourselves on some Highland loch, and
Louis declares we might well expect to find
St. Abb's lighthouse somewhere round the
corner of the bay.
It has been pretty warm lately, but not too
94 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
hot for comfort if one is dressed 'accordingly.'
Like the natives, we wear nothing but mumus
and holakus, and on shore we nearly always go
barefoot. It is amusing to see Louis in his
peculiar attire, wading about in his favourite
cove at the east end of the bay shell-hunting.
He does it in the full blaze of the sun, and
quite enjoys it, and is looking very well. I
can't stand quite so much sun, and prefer the
west end bathing-place, where there is more
level ground and shelter beneath the trees.
Also, I have given up shell-hunting, as I never
seemed to find any but broken ones. There
seems to be little variety nothing but tiny
' buckies,' just like those at home.
August i.
JUST a year to-day since I said good-bye
to you, and left my dear home. What a
wonderful year it has been to me ; and
how strangely my fears have been disappointed,
and my hopes more than realised! It is not
often one can say as much. . . .
Yesterday we had an amusing 'dinner-party.'
We invited Taipi-Kikino, chief of Anaho, to
dinner. He accepted the invitation with great
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 95
joy, and as a first step in dressing proceeded
to the west beach to take a sea-bath. But
before it was accomplished, our boat came to
take us back to the yacht ; he could not resist
the temptation to come with us, and so joined
us as he was, in a pair of old blue cotton
trousers, a blue and white shirt with a hole in
it, and a towel round his shoulders ! But, like
a real chief, he was perfectly self-possessed
and unembarrassed, and could not have borne
himself with more dignity if he had been
dressed like a king. I wondered if he would
keep the towel round his neck all the time.
But no ; when he sat down to table he used it
for a napkin. He held his knife and fork
beautifully, and helped himself to salt, and
entered into everything with unaffected en-
joyment. Louis managed to keep up a sur-
prising amount of conversation with the few
words of Kanaka that he knows, interspersed
with French and English and a great amount
of pantomime. The chief, too, was very quick
of comprehension.
We have a photo of our Queen in the fore-
cabin, which is always something to talk about.
We show it as our ' Vahine Haka-iki Beritano '
96 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
which means literally woman - great - chief -
Britain. Most of the men know about her
quite well, we find, and say immediately,
1 Victoreea ' !
We went ashore with the chief after dinner
and he took us to see a real old-fashioned
Kanaka house. It stands on a platform of
large stones, about three feet in height, called
a pae-pae the house itself being forty-five or
fifty feet long. On three sides it is shut in
with walls made of bamboo canes, that allow
the air to pass through freely ; the roof is high-
pitched, rising to a point, and thatched with
cocoa-nut. 17 The front is left wholly open, but
the roof projects a little to keep out the rain.
Along the whole of the back wall opposite
the entrance there were cocoa-nut mats spread
over something soft, I do not know what, that
served as bed and sofa. The only other piece
of furniture was a sewing-machine, with a lamp
standing on it. As soon as we arrived, the
master of the house, a very intelligent and
dignified man (nicknamed ' the Chancellor ' by
Lloyd) sent at once for a cocoa-nut for each of
us. They were very deftly husked and broken
open by a young man, and the ' flowing bowl '
JANE WHVTE KALFOUK
' ' Chief of onr A lints .' not only I .
But all your dozen of nurslings cry
What did the oilier children do,
And what were childhood, wanting you ?''
R, L. S. Child' Garden.
fFROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 97
was handed round, a most refreshing juice, of
which one grows very fond ; we are glad to
drink as much as is offered us. 18
Augicst 2.
LOUIS and Fanny hired four natives to
row them round to Hatiheu, which is
in the next bay. They had a pleasant trip and
lunched with the gendarme in residence there.
Louis also went with Pere Simeon to see what
remains of the old ' High Place/ where the
ceremonial dances and cannibal feasts were
formerly held. 19
The afternoon was cloudy, so I ventured on
my first long walk up to the top of the moun-
tain which divides our bay from that in which
Hatiheu lies. The road passes at first through
pleasant groves of cocoa-nut palms and bread-
fruit trees. There was also one large and
beautiful tree covered with great bunches of
scarlet blossom as brilliant as a geranium ; 20 I
tried to get some, but they were all out of my
reach. Beyond this the road zig-zagged up
the green hillside ; and I got a magnificent
view of sea and land, with a peep into the next
bay. I was pretty tired by the time I returned
G
98 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
to the yacht ; and had good right to be, as we
calculate that I must have been as high as the
top of Kirk Yetton.* Anyway, I am quite
sure I did wonders for the first of August in
the tropics, and more than I should have been
able to do at home.
We often amuse ourselves by proposing to
get up a party to settle here, and wonder
which of our friends would be content to join
us and live this half-civilised life. I say of
course you would come, and this climate would
cure your wheeze, and give you a new lease of
life. Then Cummy, of course, would come
also. She could do missionary work amongst
the natives, though I fear she would come to
fisticuffs with the 'pas bons pretres.' The
climate would be delightful for G , and I am
sure the natives would look up to her as to a
queen ; but then how could she stand the very
cutty sarks that some of them wear ! I think I
can see her look of dignified and grieved sur-
prise. For many things we decide that C
would like to be here ; and Lloyd declares that if
he only had B he could be perfectly happy.
We have just received a visit in state from
* See note on p. 85.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 99
Taipi-Kikino dressed in a beautiful clean
white suit, which we suppose is the one that
he intended to wear at the dinner-party. He
brought us a pig, and some cocoa-nuts and
oranges ; and having come at nine-thirty he
stayed until nearly eleven, a rather unfortunate
time, as in the morning Louis likes to be busy
with his writing.
By the way, the natives have got names for
us all. Louis was at first ' the old man,' much
to his distress ; but now they call him ' Ona,'
meaning owner of the yacht, a name he greatly
prefers to the first. Fanny is Vahine, or wife ;
I am the old woman, and Lloyd rejoices in the
name of Mate" Karahi, the young man with
glass eyes (spectacles). Perhaps it is a com-
pliment here to call one old, as it is in China ;
at any rate, one native told Louis that he
himself was old, but his mother was not !
August 3.
THE Captain, Fanny, and Lloyd went
ashore last night and brought back
startling news. The chiefs have all been sum-
moned to a council of war at the governor's
in Tai-o-hae, and all the able-bodied men are
zoo FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
called out to join the war that is going on at
Raiatea. 21 We are very sorry about it. It
seems hard first to be taught that war is
wrong and persuaded to give it up, and then
to be called on to fight for the French
against people of their own blood. How can
they be expected to understand it ? ...
We are expecting to leave Anaho bay one
day next week, but the date of departure is
still uncertain. The sailors, however, are
already busy tightening shrouds and otherwise
getting the Casco ready for a new start ;
besides which she has undergone a regular
thorough cleaning while lying here. We sail
first to Tai-o-hae, the capital of Nuka-hiva,
to take in water, etc. ; afterwards to another
island of the group, called Hiva-oa, or possibly
to Fiji instead, as may be decided ; and then
on to Tahiti, where I look forward with long-
ing to getting some letters. From Tahiti I
expect we shall go straight to Hawaii, and the
captain says that if we are to avoid the season
of storms, we ought to reach Honolulu by the
first of November. That is all I can tell you
of our plans, so continue to write to Honolulu
for the present. I am afraid you will have
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 101
been kept very long without letters, as we hear
that the mail-boat was very late of arrival from
San Francisco. Don't weary for the next, as
I fear it will not reach you for some time.
Think of me, with no news of you all, and
don't complain ! . . .
Yacht ' CascoJ Anaho Bay, August 7.
WE are nearly ready to sail, and shall pro-
bably start on Thursday. We shall
all be very sorry to leave Anaho. It is strange
how much at home we have learned to feel
among palm-groves and half-savage natives !
Louis and Fanny went on shore last night
and were asked by Kahova (the ' Chancellor ')
to have supper with him. It consisted of
baked bread-fruit, 22 with a sauce of cocoa-nut
cream, which is made by beating up the soft
pulp of the green nut with the juice, and is
delicious. The whole dish is called kaku
The whole company ate out of one dish with
their fingers, but did it very neatly. Fanny
had the dish first, and took one dip ; but Louis
liked it so much that he helped himself several
times. I asked Fanny afterwards what she
did with her fingers. She says they brought
102 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
her water in a tin dish, which she poured over
them ; but she thinks Louis took more primi-
tive means with his !
By the way, you must pronounce all vowel-
sounds in the Kanaka names and words just
as in French. The Kanaks drop out nearly
all the consonants, and hearing them speak
reminds me of the old Scotch story of the
goodwife and the merchant: f 'Oo'?' 'Ay,
'oo': 'A' 'oo'?' 'Ay, a' W.' 'A' ae 'oo'?'
'Ay, a' ae 'oo. ..." I am sure it would be
possible to equal this in the native speech here.
And talking of words, I wonder if you have
ever wanted to know the meaning of the name
Casco. I did, and to satisfy my curiosity, I
asked Dr. M , the owner, about it before
we left. He said it was a word of Indian
origin, but he did not know its meaning. A
bay in the State of Maine, near his birthplace,
was called Casco Bay, and after this he had
named his beloved yacht.*
* ' Casco ' is also the local name of a kind of flat-bottomed river-
boat used at Manilla in the Philippines.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 103
August 9.
AFTER all, we do not sail till Saturday,
so I must give you another ' screed ' to
tell you of our amusing experiences yesterday.
Fanny was determined to get lessons in the
proper making of ' kaku ' ; so we went ashore
in the afternoon, armed with a bowl and a
beater. First of all we went to Mr. Regler's
house. He could give us cocoa-nuts, but had
no bread-fruit. However, there happened to
be a native there who had brought in cotton
for sale, and he was despatched at once to beg
a bread-fruit from some one, and very soon
returned with two. The natives, I must tell
you, think it is dastardly and mean beyond
words to take money for food ; but they are
always delighted to give you more than
you want.
Lloyd had been chopping wood for the fire
in Mr. Regler's back-yard, where he always
keeps a log smouldering. The natives come
continually to beg for matches to light their
pipes, and as these are very expensive here
a French monopoly, I suppose ! he finds it
more economical to keep this fire going. So
104 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
this suggesting it to us we rewarded the
man who had got us the bread-fruit with two
boxes of matches, which so delighted him, that
he immediately constituted himself assistant
cook. First, the bread-fruit was put to bake
in a flaming wood-fire ; the cocoa-nuts were
grated very fine, and the resulting pulp was
mixed with some of the juice and squeezed
through a piece of cheese-cloth that we had
brought with us. When the bread-fruit was
ready, the rind was taken off, and the pulp
well mashed, just like potatoes, and over it
was poured the cocoa-nut cream. 24 Hoka,
the ' beau ' of the bay, and M. Aussel, the
gendarme from Hatiheu, arrived during our
labours, and looked on with great interest ;
and when we had finished, we carried the dish
into Mr. Regler's shop, which was filled with
bales of cotton and quantities of dried cocoa-
nuts ready for shipment. Here we put our
bowl on a box in the middle, and squatted
round it on the floor ; Mr. Regler lent us
spoons, and we declared the kaku most
excellent. By the way, I should have included
Mr. Regler amongst our onlookers during the
preparation of the dish, for he was busy at his
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 105
sewing-machine close by, making a pair of
dark-blue cotton trousers for Hoka, whom I
have mentioned, and who is the adopted son
of a wealthy native called Toma. Hoka is a
really good-looking and clever young fellow,
the best dancer in the bay, and he can also
play most sweetly on a little reed pipe with
three notes. 25 Louis gave him one of his
whistles, and by the next day Hoka and all
his musical friends in the village could play
it quite well. Moreover, Hoka is a travelled
man, having been to Tahiti on a French ship ;
and he is only here just now because his
adopted father is building a new house, and
there is to be a great feast on its completion.
The house is made of wood match-boarding
and has two doors and two glass windows,
and a verandah all round, with an ornamental
railing painted green and white. It is con-
sidered very grand indeed. Hoka has a deep
admiration for Louis, and follows him about
everywhere when he is on shore. He wanted
us to stay here for the feast, and we begin to
be sorry that we cannot when we see the great
scale on which preparations are being made.
We have seen men going up the hill to catch
io6 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
pigs for the banquet; another time we met
five men and two horses laden with bread-fruit ;
and again, we saw natives coming down from
the mountains carrying kids by their horns.
Every evening eight or ten boats are out
catching fish by torchlight. We should like
to have some for breakfast, but their feeling
about never selling food makes it difficult to
ask for any.
I told you Hoka was an adopted child.
This is quite common here : sometimes they
are even ' spoken for ' before they are born, 26
and the foster-parents seem quite as fond of
them as their own father and mother could
be. No doubt it arises from the very few
births here, we are quite struck by the
absence of children. 27
Tai-o-hae, Nuka-hiva, Monday, August 13.
WE are once more at moorings in another
lovely bay, which reminds me faintly
of Rothesay, though without the lovely views
outside. This place is the 'capital' of the
Marquesas. The governor's house is close to
the water's edge, with verandahs all round, and
the ( tricolor ' floating above it looks very gay
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 107
against the background of green foliage. A
small French man-o'-war is also in the bay, so
the signs of authority abound.
Louis went ashore at 9 A.M. to pay his
respects to the governor ; and Fanny and I
went with him to do some shopping. There
is a promenade under the trees, some wooden
houses, and two shops not unlike what one finds
in the Highlands, where lamps, hams, boots,
and dresses all hang or lie side by side. The
shopping took us a very long time, as each
separate article had to be hunted for. Surely
people do not buy much in the Marquesas.
When we rejoined Louis, he told us he had
found the governor most amiable, and had
invited him to come on board this afternoon to
look round the yacht.
There is more moisture here than at Anaho,
and the valleys are therefore more productive ;
but the outline of the surrounding mountains
is not so beautiful. Yesterday, on our way to
this place, we passed by 'Controllers' Bay,'
where lies the valley of Typee. (You ought to
try and get Typee and Omua, two books about
the Pacific, for they are amusing and interesting,
and very true, in the main, of life in these
io8 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
islands. But I am not sure if you will easily
come across them.) My next letter will tell
you more of Tai-o-whae.
Yacht ' Casco,' Tai-o-hae?* Nuka-hiva.
Augusf 17.
WE are still detained in this ' capital ' city,
enjoying ourselves very much, though
we liked the life at Anaho better. We tell the
people here that they are too civilised for our
taste, and they are much amused : one pretty
Spanish woman, Madame J , wife of a
merchant, even offered to accommodate us by
setting the fashion of going barefoot !
There are many kinds of fruit plentifully
grown here limes, guavas, mangoes, custard-
apples, and others. Unfortunately this is
winter, and the mangoes are nearly over ; but
the commandant has promised to try and find
at least one for me to taste. How well I
remember M 's account of tucking up his
shirt-sleeves and eating a basinful of mangoes
before breakfast.
I told you of our shopping expedition on
Monday morning. In the afternoon the com-
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 109
mandant returned Louis's visit, and was very
agreeable ; and on Tuesday Mr. and Mrs.
Dunn came to dinner. Mrs. Dunn is only
fifteen years old, half-Spanish and half-native,
and so shy that we could scarcely induce her to
speak a word, though her husband told us that
she knows both French and English. The
motion of the yacht, even while at anchor,
made her feel ill, so they had to leave us
immediately after dinner.
On that same afternoon Louis, Fanny, and
I went ashore to call on Queen Vaekehu.
She is a most dignified old lady, with quan-
tities of beautiful grey hair brushed back from
her forehead. Being slightly deaf, we found
it difficult to hold much conversation with her.
I am told she was the first person converted to
Christianity by Bishop Dordillon. She lives
in a pretty wooden house of three rooms a
little above the bay, and received us seated in
the centre of the middle room. The wooden
floors were all spotlessly clean, the walls
painted a very pretty turquoise blue. For
furniture there were two tables with handsome
covers, many chairs, and a few very bad
pictures. Through the open door in front we
no FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
had a lovely view of the bay, and the one
to the back looked out upon the mountains.
On the back verandah we could watch some
young girls at work ; they came several times
to peep in at us, but were peremptorily dis-
missed by the queen, who, I should fancy,
is quite capable of making herself obeyed.
An adopted daughter sat beside Vaekehu,
and acted as interpreter, and brought us
also several cocoa-nuts to drink. 29
After leaving the queen's house, Louis
went to the mission to see Pere Fulgence,
the head of the mission, who has been very ill.
He also visited the sceurs who have charge of
the girls' school, 30 and was very much taken
with them. All the girls from several islands
are educated and brought up here, but they
were just separating for the holidays, so I shall
not have an opportunity of seeing them at work.
On Wednesday, as it was a fete-day, there
was an early service in the church, at which
I heard by chance the girls from the school
would be present. I was anxious to see them,
so I rose at six, had breakfast by myself, and
went ashore and was at the church by seven,
Valentine going with me. The church is quite
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS in
small, whitewashed inside, and has the usual
display of gilding, paper flowers, and wax
candles. There were nearly a hundred of the
girls, all nicely dressed in white holakus and
broad- brimmed straw hats trimmed with black
ribbon. They looked very neat, and were
very well-behaved, acting as the choir, and
singing the service in the crooning, humming
native fashion. I can compare the sound to
nothing but a gigantic lime-tree full of bees,
and I found it so soporific that I very nearly
went to sleep. After the first part of the
service, Pere Pierre preached a long sermon in
Kanaka, in which, by the way, nearly all the
service was conducted; and at the close of
the Mass about a dozen people took Com-
munion, the queen among them. We were
seated beside her majesty, and I spoke to her
when the service was at an end. She wore
a very pretty white holaku with three em-
broidered flounces, a 'cardinal's cape' of
black grenadine trimmed with lace, and a
leghorn hat trimmed with black ribbon.
Apart from the girls, there were not many
people at church at the most perhaps two
dozen women and a dozen men.
ii2 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
This same day Louis spent at the Residence
with the commandant, returning on board only
about four in the afternoon. He had enjoyed
himself very much, for M. Delaruelle is a most
agreeable man. Once he asked us to guess
his age. It was not easy, for though his hair
is perfectly white, his face is young ; but it
chanced that I made a lucky shot and guessed
exactly right thirty-six years. He then told
us that in Madagascar, where he had a bad
attack of fever, his hair turned grey in a single
night ; and he was so utterly miserable and ill
that he tried to get a mad dog to bite him that
he might be sent home to Paris to Dr. Pasteur !
M. Delaruelle cannot speak English, but is
anxious to learn, and is trying to teach himself.
He had bought some English books for this
purpose in San Francisco, and showed them
with pride to Louis. They were mostly utter
rubbish ; but, strangely enough, the first book
Louis took up was Treasure Island. The
commandant is now hard at work on this.
The day after Louis's visit to him, he was
in a shop when M. Delaruelle passed. He
looked in and said : ' Voyez-vous, je viens de
faire la connaissance de ModestineJ and walked
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 113
away. Louis was fairly puzzled, but found out
later that the commandant had found some
extracts of reviews of some of his books,
Through the Cevennes among them, at the end
of Treasure Island.
Louis got home just in time for an afternoon
party,, to which we had invited some of the
residents, who, we knew, wished to see the
yacht. We had ten guests : Mr. and Mrs.
Dunn, Mr. and Mrs. Jorss, Mr. and Mrs.
Brown and their son Alan, Mrs. Goltz (a
pleasant old English lady, wife of a German
sea-captain), Mrs. Dickson, and Mr. Cuthill, a
Scotsman, who has a mill for ginning cotton.
We gave them champagne, biscuits, and
gingerbread.
On Thursday Dr. Beynard, the government
medical man, lunched with us. He looks
extremely delicate. Unfortunately he could
speak no English, but he and Louis got on
very well in French, and he was full of
information. In the afternoon Louis, Fanny,
and I called on Stanislas, who is the son of the
late king, and step- and adopted son of Queen
Vaekehu. He lives in a wooden house, smaller
than her majesty's, and it is by no means so
H
ii4 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
nicely kept, neither so spotlessly clean nor so
orderly. He is about forty years old, and
handsome, in spite of being heavily pock-
marked, having had small-pox when it
decimated the islands some twenty years ago.
His father was one of the many who were
carried off by it. Stanislas has been well
educated and speaks excellent French, and is
evidently both intelligent and sensible. 31 His
wife is pretty, but hopelessly untidy. I fancy
that our visit had been expected, for no sooner
had we arrived than presents were brought out :
a piece of tapa 32 for each of us, and an old
man's beard 83 for Louis. These beards are
very highly thought of here, and are difficult
to obtain. They are worn by men as orna-
ments, and are fastened on the forehead by a
wreath made of porpoise teeth. We were
given also green cocoa-nuts to drink, which we
always enjoy.
Louis and Fanny finished the day by dining
with the Dunns. Mr. Dunn was anxious that
Louis should stay ashore for a grand entertain-
ment he was giving, a feast and a dance by
natives, at which the entire population of the
town would be present ; but Louis did not feel
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 113
able for it after so long and busy a day. (By
the way, is it not wonderful what Louis can do
here ? He says he has not felt so well since
'79, and it is such a relief to him to find he can
keep well in so enjoyable a climate, as he
feared he might be condemned to places like
Davos or Saranac.) The party was there-
fore rearranged, and the entertainment is to
take place to-night (Friday) instead. I have
declined, and so has Fanny, but the captain
and Lloyd will go.
To-day (Friday) was another busy day.
M. Delaruelle came to lunch, and stayed for a
long time afterwards, talking with Louis. At
five we expected Stanislas with his wife and
little grand-daughter, but as his wife was ill
and could not come, he brought Queen
Vaekehu in her place. This was a great
compliment to us, for she had previously told
us that she could not manage it, as the rheu-
matism in her knees made it difficult for her
to climb into the yacht ; and indeed we could
see it was painful to her. She is a delightful
old lady, with gentle, caressing manners, very
dignified and serene. She wore a thinner
white holaku than she had worn at church, a
n6 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
white china crape shawl, and a leghorn hat.
She was very kind and courteous to us all, and
we liked her very much. The little girl had a
male attendant to take care of her. They all
conducted themselves perfectly at table, and
Stanislas talked in a most interesting way,
and showed us a charming old-time French
gallantry declaring, for instance, that I did
not look more than forty ! The queen's
hands are covered with the finest tattooing I
have yet seen, all over the back, like exquisite
lace mittens ; but I noticed that only the first
finger was done, the others being untouched.
I asked her son the reason of this, and he
shrugged his shoulders and said, ' It is too
painful.' When we went on deck, Stanislas
said, 'The Kanaka ladies smoke.' 34 Louis
went to get a pipe for her majesty, but it
occurred to Fanny she might like a cigarette
in the Mexican fashion, so she showed her
how to roll one. The queen seemed to be
delighted with the idea, and copied every
movement most deftly. Fanny took a ci-
garette also to keep her company, and we all
sat and smiled and patted each other, in the
absence of any mutual language. Meanwhile,
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 117
Stanislas was going the round of the yacht
with Louis, and was greatly pleased and in-
terested in everything. I forgot to say that
the queen brought us presents : a piece of
tapa for each of us, a finely-carved cocoa-nut
cup, and another old man's beard.
Mr. Dunn's large party went off very well,
and was kept up till very late. As Lloyd and
the captain had been to several other smaller
entertainments already, they thought it was
their turn to play the hosts ; so they found an
empty house, engaged some natives to prepare
a feast, and invited all their friends for the
following evening. In the afternoon I went
and peeped in. The house was prettily
decorated with palm-branches, flowers, and
flags ; a long table was set in the centre of the
room, and the fire that was to roast the pig
was already lighted, and the lamps filled and
ready. I hear it was most successful, and
only broke up at n P.M.
Monday, August 20.
WHEN Stanislas was with us on Friday
he invited us to go an excursion to-
day up one of the valleys to see a rocking-
n8 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
stone. He was to provide horses and refresh-
ments ; but you may imagine how terribly
disappointed we were when the morning
turned out hopelessly wet. Saturday also was
a rather bad day, the worst since our arrival ;
but this promised to be much worse. We
were at a loss what to do, but our kind
Stanislas came on board before the hour
fixed for the start to propose that we should
delay until the afternoon, and go then if it
cleared up.
We intended to leave Tai-o-hae to-morrow,
but we may be detained a day or two longer,
for our Japanese cook went ashore without
leave on Saturday evening, got drunk, and
stayed away all night. Yesterday morning, it
appears, he was taken up and put in the cala-
boose (police-office) till this morning, when he
was brought on board, and was most insolent
to the captain. He may have to be turned off,
and it is possible the four sailors may elect to
go with him ; but we find that we can get others
without difficulty, and at lower wages. We
have already engaged a mate, for we found
we were 'short-handed' in a storm. He is a
M. Henri Goltz, and has been a skipper, but
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 119
is at present out of work. He speaks Kanaka,
and will be invaluable to Louis as an inter-
preter; and if the new sailors are Kanakas,
Lou will be delighted, as he will be able to
get so much information out of them.
Tuesday, August 21.
A7ESTERDAY the weather never im-
JL proved, so our excursion had finally to
be given up ; it was a great disappointment to
us all. Louis likes Stanislas so much that he
is continually regretting that he did not call
on him sooner, but it cannot be helped now.
Did I tell you that his full name is Stanislas
Moanatini ?
The new cook has come on board. He is
half Chinese. As we have heard nothing
more of the sailors leaving us, we expect to
sail to-night, so I must come to a sudden
stop, there being no more than time to go
ashore and pay bills and make farewell visits.
I wonder when we shall reach Tahiti and get
news of you.
120 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Yacht ' Cascoj Taahauku,
August 25.
HERE we are once more at anchor off
another of these Isles of Paradise ;
but I must go back and tell you of our depar-
ture from Nuka-hiva. After closing your
letter on Tuesday, I went ashore to pay fare-
well visits alone, as Fanny had a headache
and could not accompany me. I went first
to the Residence, where M. Delaruelle took
me all over the house, and showed me what
improvements he meant to make. It is a
charming house; but only fancy, he has but
two hundred and forty pounds a year on which
to keep up the dignity of the French Govern-
ment. It seems miserably little for such a
post. I then called on all our other friends,
including Queen Vaekehu and ' Prince and
Princess ' Stanislas. (The natives always call
them by these titles, though the French only
treat them to Monsieur and Madame.} I
went last of all to the mission, where I had
a very pleasant talk with the sceurs. They
showed me over the class-rooms, which are
kept in beautiful order by the girls ; and they
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 121
told me that besides ordinary lessons, the girls
are taught house- work, and to sew and cook.
Only four are there at present during the
holidays ; two of these, I was informed with
great pride, had a vocation for la vie religieuse.
As they were only fourteen, I suggested it
might be wiser to wait before coming to such
a decision ; to which the sceurs assented,
though with a hesitation that showed they
were well aware of the risk of losing these
poor girls altogether. I fear that once away
from the school, its teaching is too apt to be
forgotten. The girls we saw were working at
sewing-machines, and looked thoroughly well
and happy.
In the evening Louis and Fanny went
ashore to present their photographs to the
queen and Stanislas, and to say good-bye.
At parting Louis kissed the queen's hand,
which evidently delighted her. Madame
Stanislas gave Fanny a very finely carved
poi-poi bowl of mio wood. Stanislas walked
with Louis and Fanny down to the little land-
ing-place, accompanied also by Frere Michel,
a very cheery old soul of a lay-brother, who
enjoys life himself and wants every one else
122 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
to do so too. He had asked us to give him
a passage to Hiva-oa, which Louis was de-
lighted to do, as he likes the kind old man.
Fanny declares that on the way to the landing
the two men quarrelled as to which was to
have the honour of walking with Louis, which
was not very complimentary to her !
We intended to start at 8 P.M., when the
land-breeze usually rises, but that night there
was such a storm at sea, that there was no
land-breeze, and we had to wait till morning.
Frere Michel brought on board with him a
carved cocoa-nut kava-cup for Fanny ; a
plain one, a large piece of sandal-wood, and
some vanilla beans for me. He also brought
a sackful of splendid oranges from the
mission gardens. He was certainly the least
troublesome passenger it is possible to
imagine, for he not only brought his own
blanket, but also a ' serviette,' so that he need
not even ask us for a towel ! All he wanted
was a place to lie in, and we gave him the
sofa in Louis's unused cabin. Poor man, he
suffered a good deal from sea-sickness, and
scarcely touched anything while with us but
some of his own oranges.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 123
We sailed at 8 A.M. on Wednesday morning,
and reached our anchorage here at 3 P.M. on
Thursday. We had a head-wind, and a very
high sea ; and, as usual, every one was more
or less sick except myself. The captain was
very bad indeed, and so was Louis ; and our
new cook, Ah Fou, being also ill, we had to
take what food we could get. We passed the
island of U-apu during the night, and on
Thursday morning were in sight of this island,
Hiva-oa, which, I am told, means ' Yonder far.'
We also saw another island, Tauata, and had
to pass through a very narrow strait between
the two, called the 'canal.' This was difficult
to do with a head-sea and a high wind, and I
found it very interesting to watch the captain
giving orders for the different movements.
While we were going through the canal,
Frere Michel pointed out to us two nice large
houses that he said belonged to him ; but it
turned out that they really belonged to a
' chieftess,' as they say here, who had adopted
him. I asked : ' Does everything that she
possesses belong to you ? ' Yes,' said he, ' so
long as I do not steal them.' Fanny and I
then said that above everything we should like
i2 4 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
to be adopted by a chief ; and he declared that
nothing was easier, and that when he landed
he would arrange for us to be adopted at
once.
These islands are much like the others that
we have seen, with high mountains sloping up
from the beach, curiously serrated in outline,
and rising here and there to fine abrupt peaks.
There are numbers of wooded valleys, and
most of the bays have curious detached
rocks guarding the entrance, which are called
'sentinels.' There is an enormous one at the
entrance to this bay ; it is shaped like a huge
hay-stack, and forms a natural breakwater.
The bay itself is so long and narrow that
it looks like a river-mouth.
As soon as we cast anchor the ubiquitous
gendarme appeared on the rocks and made
signs to us to send a boat for him ; he was,
however, at once satisfied with our bill of
health. Our next visitors were two boys in
a canoe, the son and young brother-in-law of
Mr. Keane, an Englishman, who is settled
here. He was formerly a cavalry officer in
India, and when his regiment was ordered
home, he could not afford to continue in it, and
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 125
was obliged to sell out. He is now married
and keeps a store here. It is indeed a strange
change of life.
The Capu, as the natives call the captain,
and Lloyd went on shore in the evening, and
visited the Keanes, who begged us to make
their house our headquarters while we remain
here.
On Friday morning Louis got up with a bad
headache, and looked so wretched that he said
he must rest all day. However, he went
ashore with us to see if he felt the better of
being on land. Fanny, Lloyd, and I intended
to go to the village, which is at some little
distance, to hunt for eggs. The landing here
is very bad ; we have either to spring fairly
out of the boat on to the rocks, or to run on
to the beach, through a heavy surf, according
to the state of the tide. We went first to the
Keanes, who were most kind and hospitable,
and lent us a horse for Fanny. Their house
and its dependencies are the only buildings of
any sort in this bay. It is a pretty wooden
house with a broad verandah and open doors
and windows, and they have an enclosed
English-looking garden, with lovely flowers,
126 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
and a swing in it for the children. Mr. Keane
is cheery and jolly, a regular John Bull, who
tries hard to forget that he is not living at
home, and who has never tasted ka-ku or poi-poi,
or anything of native cookery. His wife is a
gentle, sweet-looking woman, half-Danish and
half- Hawaiian. We got one piece of good
news here : young Keane has a camera, and
has used up all his plates, so was quite willing
to sell it to Lloyd, who thinks he can cut his
plates to fit it.
Fanny got on the horse, and Lloyd and I
walked beside her to the village of Atuona,
two miles away, in the next bay. The road is
good, and it winds through cocoa-nut groves
and round the cliffs overhanging the sea ; the
views are most beautiful. When we got near
the village, we met Frere Michel coming to
tell us that the chief was eager to adopt us
into his family, and that the preparations
were begun, and a pig was already roasting for
the feast of initiation. The whole village, it
appeared, was en fete, and charmed with the
honour that we were doing to them.
Atuona is beautifully situated at the foot
of a high and steep mountain, and has more
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 127
houses gathered together than we have yet
seen in any native village. Our house (I mean
the one belonging to our new parents) is quite
magnificent, with no less than three doors and
six glazed windows. It is built on a high
pae-pae, as they call the large stone platforms
that support the houses, with a verandah all
round, and the windows and doors, as usual,
standing wide open. The house is entirely
lined with twisted reeds, and the floor covered
with matting, and everything was exquisitely
clean and fresh. Our new 'papa' was ready
to receive us, dressed in a blue coat and white
trousers ; his name is Pa-a-a-e-u-a, and he is
a very good-looking man, but more depressed
than is general with natives. His wife is quiet
and very pleasant, but not good-looking.
They have a little adopted child, who was
at once introduced to us ; he is the son of
an Austrian sailor who escaped from a
burning ship some fourteen years ago, and
who refused ever to go to sea again. He
settled down here and married the chief's
sister, and this is his son.
While the feast was being made ready, we
went to see the pretty little church, where a
128 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
kind o\d.pere showed us everything with great
pride, and then we visited the misson and the
sceurs. After this we returned to our house,
where we found the table-cloth spread on the
floor. It was made of three large banana-
leaves, each about four feet long and one and
a half wide. On the thick green leaves were
laid two dishes of ka-ku, a roast chicken, small
green onions, water in beer bottles, salt on a
small leaf, baked bread-fruit, and cocoa-nut
bowls as finger-glasses. Fanny, Lloyd, and I
sat on the floor, and covered our feet with a
corner of the mat, as we had been taught to
do at Anaho. Our new father and mother
and 'little brother Joseph' seated themselves
near us. The roast pig was on the floor
behind, and near by, on a round table, was
fruit, beer, and cocoa-nuts. An elegantly-
dressed native stood behind to wait on us, the
old pere beamed most benignantly on us from
his chair, and Frere Michel, as master of
ceremonies, stood beside him. Windows and
doors were blocked by interested natives,
eagerly watching all the proceedings ; and
when we could get a peep between them, we
caught sight of gaily-dressed women and girls
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 129
sitting on the spreading roots of a large bread-
fruit tree. And the bright sunshine made
everything resplendent.
We were offered spoons, but declined, as we
wished to show we could be true Kanakas ;
and, plunging our two fore-fingers into the
bowl, we eat greedily of the ka-ku. I asked
Frere Michel why he did not join us, but he
said, ' No, that would not be convenable, as I
do not belong to your family.' It was, you
see, a sort of ceremonial feast, a rite of
adoption. . . . However, we did not all eat
out of one bowl ; we three shared the one
and our new family the other. It was
extremely good, and so was the chicken. Pig
and poi-poi were served as a second course,
and after that we had pine - apples and
oranges ; and we pledged each other con-
vivially in cocoa-nut juice, clinking the shells
in proper fashion. When we had finished, the
frere went round and poured water over our
hands, exactly as we read of it being done at
a Bible feast. 37 I asked him, ' Have we now
a right to live in this house as long as we
like ? May we stay, for instance, for a year ? '
'Certainly,' he assured us. 'Or you may
I
130 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
demand to have a new house built for yourself,
and it will be done.'
The adoption was now complete, as to
Pa-a-a-e-u-a's part in it ; and all that remained
to do was for us to give presents to our new
relatives. This perplexed us at first, as we
had of course come unprepared ; but Lloyd
took the Casco ribbon off his hat, and I gave
it to our new 'papa,' and Fanny made our
' mamma ' happy with a pen-knife. As long as
we live we have now a right to come here and
share all things with our new family, so you
people at home must make yourselves very
agreeable if you want to keep us with you !
Lloyd thinks we ought to put the thing into the
hands of B to keep our new father from
adopting all and sundry, and so lessening our
share of the succession. You might suggest
it to B , and hear what he thinks of it ! 3S
Frere Michel told us that he was very sorry
we could not understand the language and
hear the remarks made by the natives. He
said they were so gratified by our keeping to
the native customs that our popularity was in-
creasing every minute ; and the strange thing
was that, although we were the observed of all
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 13!
observers, we all confessed to not having felt
in the least awkward or embarrassed. Among
the gazers, by the by, was the Austrian sailor
of whom I told you. When the feast was
over, we took leave of our family inside the
house, and of the merry groups of men, women,
and children outside, and came back to the
yacht, very full of all we had seen and done.
Poor Lou was terribly disappointed, however.
He said that if we had sent back the horse for
him he would have come to the feast even at
the risk of having to suffer for it ; but this had
never occurred to us, as we thought he was
feeling too ill to think of such a thing.
August 27.
ON Saturday our new relatives came to
visit us, and we had great discussions
as to what presents we should give them.
Frere Michel told us that they would like a
black coat better than anything else in the
world, and Lloyd thought he had one that he
could spare ; but it turned out, unfortunately,
that it had been left behind at San Francisco,
The captain good - naturedly came to the
rescue, and offered us a grey one, with tails.
i 3 2 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
He rather crowed over us, when he saw our
difficulties, and declared he was glad that he
had not happened to accompany us, and so
had no Kanaka parents. After much dis-
cussion, however, we ended by giving the
' mamma ' a whole piece of pink printed calico,
(forty yards), and a bottle of perfume ; and to
'papa' a very nice clasp-knife with a spring
to it that Lloyd had bought in San Francisco,
a whole box of cigars, and another bottle of
scent. Also to 'little brother Joseph 'a silk
handkerchief, which had been one of Mrs.
Fairchild's presents to Lloyd. Fanny after-
wards added a photograph of herself, and a fan,
for the ' mamma.' They all seemed greatly
pleased with their presents, which was satis-
factory. Little Joseph brought us some
curious dancing ornaments made of human
hair, and a fine carved bowl, which he carried
himself all the way, clasped in his arms.
Yesterday afternoon I climbed to the top of
a steep hill higher than Arthur's Seat, and had
a magnificent view over many lovely valleys,
and the sea lying beyond. This island is more
beautiful than Nuka-hiva ; but on account of
the greater moisture, the climate is perceptibly
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 133
more trying. We often have regular Scottish
mists about the mountains here, and there is
such a heavy dew at night that we cannot stay
late on deck. Anaho has certainly the most
perfect climate of all the places we have yet
visited, but here we have few mosquitoes, and
no no-nos. 39 The legend has it that the people
of Hiva-oa served one of the gods better than
the inhabitants of Nuka-hiva ; and as a re-
ward the deity packed up all the mosquitoes
and no-nos in a cocoa-nut shell, and sent it
over to Nuka-hiva. 40 Isn't that rather like
St. Patrick and the Irish frogs and toads?
It turns out that Mr. Keane has accepted
at least one of the native customs, as all his
children are adopted. One boy and girl are
the children of his brother, and the other boy
and girl were son and daughter of a friend.
The brother, it appears, had lost his wife, and
the friend his money. Mr. Keane said, ' There
is always plenty of bread-fruit here ; send the
children to me.
i 3 4 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Yacht < Cascoj
Taahanku, Hiva-oa, August 29, 1888.
WHAT a strange 28th of August 41 I
passed yesterday. It was a lovely
day, and Fanny, the captain, Lloyd and his
'Co' (Mr. Keane's godson), and I started
early to take photographs at Atuona. I
walked on ahead, alone, that I might have a
few minutes to myself, leaving the others to
follow with the horse and the precious camera.
Colinton manse and the dear old times were
very present to me ; but had any one told me
forty years ago where I should spend the 28th
of August 1888, how impossible it would have
seemed that such a thing could come true !
When we reached the village we found Pa-
a-a-e-u-a (I hope you understand that you are
to sound each letter separately), in rather
soiled white garments ; but after greeting us
he immediately disappeared, and presently he
rejoined us in dark-blue coat and clean white
trousers, which is evidently correct high-chief
attire. We have a great deal of joking about
our ' Pa.' I hope you observe how well his
name as well as his relationship lends itself to
this contraction !
Lloyd has got the use of a small dark room
at the mission for developing his pictures ; he
succeeded in taking a good many, which we
sincerely hope will turn out well. He did both
the outside and the inside of the church, Frere
Michel and Pere Orenz, a large group of
ourselves surrounded by the natives, and a
smaller one of ourselves with our new family.
He wanted to get one of a native in war-
costume, and after a good deal of persuasion,
one of them, called Moipu^ consented to dress
up and stand for his portrait, on condition that
he was to get a copy for himself. He is a
cruel-looking man of about thirty-five, and was
formerly chief or king of this island, and a
notorious cannibal. On account of his very
bad conduct the French degraded him, and
appointed our ' Pa ' to be chief in his stead.
The two seem to live together on fairly good
terms ; but there was one thing that amused
us very much. When Moipu was dressed
and ready to be photographed, ' Pa ' quickly
stepped forward and placed himself at his
side, as if to say, * You may take him, if you
136 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
wish, but you must take the real chief along
with him!' It is interesting and curious to
see the past and present in such close juxta-
position.
We stayed at Atuona till the afternoon,
taking our lunch at a little ' eating - house '
kept by a Chinaman. He gave us ham arid
eggs, sardines, baked bread-fruit, preserved
apples, and the inevitable cocoa-nut juice : it
was all very good and clean. When we came
away his wife gave Fanny a piece of sandal-
wood, and Frere Michel delighted us with an
enormous bag of cocoa-nut pith to make salad
of. 43 Cocoa-nut salad, you must know, is con-
sidered a great delicacy. At the Hotel de
Londres, in Paris, a dish of it costs six hundred
francs ! You take the soft pith and cut it into
very small thin chips, and dress it with oil and
vinegar; we all think it delicious, as I fancy
most people do. ' Pa ' also presented us with
a bunch of ripe bananas, a pineapple, and
some oranges.
On Monday Louis went on an excursion
up into the mountains with Frere Michel :
he rode on horseback, and enjoyed it
very, very much, but I grieve to say that
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 137
he got over-heated and then chilled, and
he has not been well since. It is such a
pity.
We have had a strange old Kanak on board
for three and a half days, and his occupation
was as strange as himself. He had come to
arrange Fanny's ' old men's beards ' into a
proper headdress ; for I think I told you that
human hair was so worn. He is a remarkable-
looking old man, with a striking resemblance
to our brother John : his name is Matiao, and
he has a splendid long grey beard of his own,
but he keeps it tied up in a knot under his chin
for greater safety, as we suppose. We were
told that he could sell it any day for a hundred
dollars. He has been a rather troublesome
guest, as he requires constant watching, lest he
carry some of our beards away ; for I grieve to
say that neither the Seventh nor the Eighth
Commandment is written by nature on the
heart of these Kanakas, and it seems difficult,
not to say impossible, to instil either into their
minds. I really think it is because they are
accustomed to have everything in common. 44
But to return to our old man : he is very fond
of talking, and as most of it, when addressed to
138 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
us, has to be done by signs, his work in con-
sequence is often brought to a standstill. He
is also very fond of his food, and manages
to waste a great deal of time over that; be-
sides which, he expects to be waited on hand
and foot, and won't even fetch a drink of water
for himself. Once, however, we had a good
laugh at his expense. He had a tin bowl of
water served to him at his meals, and when he
was ready to begin he washed his hands in it,
and signed to Valentine to throw the used
water away. She, however, thought he might
do it for himself, and took no notice. Fanny,
seeing something was wanted, and misunder-
standing his gesture, took up his plate of food
which he was not at all ready to part with
and emptied it overboard. He looked
taken aback for a moment, but ultimately
joined in the general laugh against himself.
It was much funnier than it sounds, after the
lordly way he had waved to Valentine. We
wonder whether his work is not perhaps con-
sidered religious or sacred in character, and
that it would be infra dig. for him to wait
upon himself while he is engaged on it.
It is a great pity that we cannot under-
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 139
stand more of what he says, for he is the
wag of the village, and keeps all the people
laughing.
August 30.
\7ESTERDAY Lloyd went back to
jL Atuona to take some more photo-
graphs, and Moipu met him and begged him
to do one of his brother. He gave Lloyd
a piece of sandalwood, and some tapa, and
promised him a pair of fowls. Lloyd also
agreed to exchange names with him, as they
do here when they become brothers, and then
you may ask for anything you like. Lloyd
declared it was well to be connected with the
old dynasty as well as the new, as there might
be a change of ministry !
Our mate, Mr. Goltz, turns out to be a
Pole, not a German. He is a good-looking
man, and adds dignity to our following, but
is rather too fond of talking, and when once
started, his words flow like a river. Louis
says he would often like to dam said river.
As to the new cook, Ah Fou, he cooks better
than the one we had before, but is very little
of a steward. However, he is manageable,
i 4 o FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
which is a great matter : the Jap was master
of all he surveyed, feeding the crew on our
best tinned soups, and we had no redress. No
wonder the men were attached to him !
September i.
ABOUT twelve-thirty we had a great
excitement. A schooner came into the
bay beside us. What could she be? Was
she the Dolly, a coasting boat daily expected ?
No, for she was painted black, and the Dolly
was grey. Could she be the Nu-hiva, the
French Government cutter from Tai-o-hae?
No, we very soon saw she was not that either.
The mate said she was an English yacht, ' You
can see she is a John Bull all over, and if
she isn't, I '11 hang myself.' We all watched
eagerly to see her colours go up, and behold,
it was our beloved blue ensign, and the mate's
neck was safe. After a time we made out her
name to be Nyanza. By and by the owner
came over to call on us ; and we found he was
Captain Gumming Dewar of Vogrie in the
county of Midlothian ! Is it not very strange
that two yachts should meet in such an out-of-
the-way corner of the world, and that both
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 141
proprietors should hail from the same county ?
More than that, we knew Captain Dewar's
father a little, and I was introduced to the
captain himself in the Paddington Hotel
in November 1873, when we were seeing
Louis off to Mentone. The Dewars were off
to the same place on account of the health of
this very young man who is now here. . . .
They have been thirteen months away, and
have done many wonderful things : have come
through the Straits of Magellan, lived in
Robinson Crusoe's Island, had to live three
months on the Falkland Islands till they got a
new captain sent out to them, and when they
landed on Easter Island a storm came on and
they could not get back to the yacht for a
week, and had to live in a cave with the
natives as best they could ! . . .
We went on board the other boat in the
evening, but Louis was still very far from well.
We hoped that the little excitement of this
new arrival might brighten him up, but it was
very close in their saloon, and as he would go
with us, I fear he caught a fresh chill. At any
rate he has been in bed all day.
142 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
September 2.
MOIPU came on board yesterday to
cement the brotherhood between him
and Lloyd. Besides the tapa and the sandal-
wood that he had already given, he brought
a live pig, a pair of fowls, a lot of cocoa-nuts,
and some eggs. He arrived too late for our
own meal, so we gave him cold tongue,
asparagus, bread, biscuits, and two kinds of
jam, and champagne. He seemed delighted
with everything, especially the number of
different views of himself in the mirrors, and
with the presents we gave him, which were
a box of cigars, a silk handkerchief, a tin of
salmon, another of lobsters, three pots of mar-
malade, and a bottle of scent! Frere Michel,
who came later to visit us with old Pere
Oranz, told us that Moipu was delighted with
his reception and his gifts ; and that as for old
Matiao, he is so conceited about his stay of
three days and a half on the Casco that he can
talk of nothing else.
Captain Chase, an American who lives in
the next bay, came to call on Louis as soon as
he heard of the Cased 's arrival. He had read
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 143
about him in a San Francisco paper, and had
read also about yachts, but had never seen
one, and wanted to know what they were like.
A few days afterwards some amusing verses
were sent to us, written by a Scotsman called
M'Callum, who is a sort of partner of Captain
Chase.* Isn't it amusing to come on a 'poet
laureate ' in the Marquesas ?
I was interested to discover the other day
that pineapples grow here like weeds by the
wayside. They are just coming into flower, so
I don't know where ' Pa ' got the one he sent us.
September 5.
AT sea again, en route for Fakarova, one
of the Paumotu Islands. Louis had
been in bed all Saturday and Sunday, and
thought a change would do him good, so we
determined to leave on Tuesday morning.
After breakfast on Monday morning Fanny,
Lloyd, Captain Otis, and I started off to say
good-bye to all our friends. As we also
wished greatly to see the 'invisible valley,'
which was at some little distance, Fanny and
I both borrowed horses from Mr. Keane. We
* The verses are given in R. L. Stevenson's volume In the South
Seas, p. 117.
144 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
went first to the Chinaman's, and had lunch ;
and when Moipu heard that we were there he
sent up a bowl of ka-ku to help our repast.
Mrs. Chinaman gave Fanny a cocoa - nut
wreath 45 for her hat, and to the rest of us a
large bag of oranges. Did you ever hear of
such people for giving presents ? Our only
connection with them was that we had taken
a few meals in their eating - house. Mrs.
Chinaman also got a horse, and accompanied
us up the valley. It is called 'invisible' be-
cause the entrance is hidden by a spur of the
mountain ; the scenery was most beautiful,
Highland mountain-peaks above us, a High-
land burn murmuring in our ears, and yet we
were surrounded by tropical vegetation. I
thought of Rasselas and the 'happy valley,'
and longed for T to repeat the description
of it to me.
Only Fanny and I went up the valley, Lloyd
and the captain being occupied in taking more
photographs. When we returned to the village
we said good-bye to our kind friends of the
mission, who put the coping-stone on their
favours by giving us a live sheep. How are
we ever to repay them ? ' Pa ' and his family
MRS. STEVFNSON AND HEU SON "l.OUIs" IN 1854
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 145
were not at home, but Frere Michel took care
of some little parting gifts for them, and
promised to present our good wishes. Moipu
took leave of us almost with tears. He was
delighted when we remembered to call him
Matt Karahi, the young-man-with-spectacles ;
you know he and Lloyd exchanged names.
Mr. Keane sent a hundred cocoa-nuts on
board, and sent, also, his large boat with six
rowers to row us out of the bay, when we left
at 7 A.M.
We have had perfect weather, and little
sea-sickness ; Louis seems much better too,
I am thankful to say, and is up on deck
as usual, though still coughing a good
deal.
September 9.
I ^HIS is real pleasure-sailing, and the
JL ocean has been truly Pacific. We sit
all day on the top of the deck-house sheltered
from the sun by the sails, reading, writing,
working and talking. We have had splendid
sunsets, too, almost as decidedly purple and
gold as those we see in Edinburgh which are
described as tropical, and which I have been
K
146 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
longing for. We are very thankful for the
fine weather, as we are now among the coral
islands of the Low Archipelago. They lie close
together, as well as very low in the water,
and there are very rapid currents between
them, all of which makes navigation diffi-
cult and dangerous. Captain Otis did not
much like coming amongst them ; but Louis
was so anxious to reach some out-of-the-way
place, that at last he agreed. Yesterday
morning at 5.15 we sighted Tikei, one of the
' Pernicious Islands.' It was very small, and
looked like a row of cocoa-nut trees growing
out of the water. At 11.15 we came in sight
of Taiaro. It was much larger, and we could
see a long white beach and trees of many
different kinds and varieties. It reminded
me very much of the Lido, close to Venice.
Taiaro remained in sight for a long time, and
we longed to land, but prudence said ' no.' All
day long we had kept a look-out at the mast-
head ; and at six o'clock, just after sunset,
Raraka was spied from that exalted position.
The captain and mate passed a very anxious
night, but all went well ; and this morning,
soon after seven, we came on deck to find our-
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 147
selves coasting along the island of Kauehi.
It is twelve miles long, and thickly wooded ;
at one point in passing the sky was absolutely
darkened by a great cloud of sea-birds. It is
now 10.15, and we have just come in sight
of Fakarava, so I shall stop till we have
reached it.
Fakarava^ September 10.
DO you remember 's account of the
great architect's visit to the High
School, as expounded by the janitor? It
wound up with, . . . ' An' when he cam to
the ha', he jist haddit up his han's, an' said,
"Atweel, I think this bates a' that iver I
seed."'
This fitly expresses our thoughts at the
sight of this coral island. The strip of land is
so narrow that in two minutes we can walk
from one side to the other : it is thickly
wooded with cocoa-nut palms, for no other
useful tree will grow in this hard coral. The
lagoon inside is thirty miles long and ten wide ;
it looks like an inland sea, indeed in places
the shore is entirely lost to sight. It is very
strange to walk but a few steps across from the
quiet lagoon, smooth as a lake, to where the
148 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
great surf is breaking and thundering along a
coral strand.
Our House at Fakarava,
Paumotus Islands, September 12, 1888.
LOUIS found the cabin so close on Sunday
night that he thought it would be a
good plan to take a house by the week, so
that he might sleep on shore ; and here we
are in a dear little wooden erection of three
rooms, with a verandah front and back. It
is one of the best houses on the island after
the Residency. The sitting - room is quite
large and very airy, with two doors opening
on the verandahs, two windows to the front,
one to the back, and one at the far end ; the
two bedrooms open off the other end, and all
are painted white, with the doors and windows
panelled in blue. In the sitting-room there
are two rocking-chairs, four round -backed
chairs, and a table, and no less than three
sewing-machines! (what a pity you are not
here !) There are also two brackets on the
wall, three framed pictures, a small mirror,
and a gun. There are wooden bedsteads in
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 149
the bedrooms, small wardrobes, basin-stands,
and so on, and actually a copy of David
Wilkie's 'Village School' framed and hang-
ing up in one. We were rather afraid of the
wooden beds, so we brought ashore our mat-
tresses from the Casco, keep them in the
bedrooms through the day, and at night bring
them out and spread them where we please.
Usually Louis and Fanny take the front
verandah, Lloyd the back, and Valentine
and I retire to different corners of the sitting-
room, leaving both doors wide open, so that
there is plenty of air. The only drawback is
mosquitoes, but one can't expect absolute per-
fection in this world. Our house stands beside
the little church, but the priest is away just
now and there is only a native catechist left in
charge. I would fain go to the service, but
twenty minutes to six A.M. (when the bell
rings) is rather much of a good thing in the
way of early rising for me. As it is, the sun
wakes us soon after six, and we make break-
fast with the help of a paraffin cooking-stove ;
we have coffee, soup, bread-and-butter, and
marmalade. For lunch and dinner we return
to the Casco.
150 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
There is quite a large piece of ground about
our house, with a nice white fence in front and
a wall of coral on the other sides ; there are a
great many cocoa-nut palms in it, but from the
gate to the house there is an avenue of ban-
anas, and that is a very fine thing here, as
the soil for them has all to be brought from
Tahiti. 46 There are two fig-trees also that are
said to bear splendid fruit.
As soon as we cast anchor on Sunday, a
M. Donat came on board to welcome us ; he
is a very pleasant man, half French and half
Tahitian, one of six that were sent to France
by the Government for their education. He
afterwards taught himself English, ' because
the English had been so kind to him, and he
liked them so much.' The Governor is away
just now at Raiatea, where the war is going
on, and has left M. Donat and another man,
M. Charles, in charge. We went ashore with
M. Donat, who gave us cocoa-nut juice in the
court-room, showed us the Residency garden,
which was made by bringing more than three
hundred sacks of earth from Tahiti, and took us
across the island to show us the best place on
the ocean-beach for finding shells. (This is the
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 151
best place that we have yet seen for shells.
There are many varieties, wonderfully perfect
and unbroken, and we are making quite a
collection.) The Governor, he told us, is
obliged to live on this small island of Faka-
rava, because it has the only safe anchorage
in all the Paumotus ; and as all vessels must
present their papers for his inspection, he must
of course live where it is possible for them
to reach him. Most of the people who live
here are away just now in another island
where they also possess land, and where they
have to go for some formality about register-
ing their titles.
When we came ashore on Monday we
found all the natives left at home assembled
on the beach and waiting for us, with M.
Donat to act as interpreter. They wished to
say that they had brought us a small present
according to their custom, and hoped we
would accept it ; they also begged that we
would allow them to come on board and see
the yacht. Of course we gratefully accepted
the gifts and fixed the hour of 2.30 on Tuesday
the next day for their visit to the Casco,
promising to send a boat to bring them out.
152 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
The people here are much darker and smaller
and not nearly so handsome as the Marquesans ;
but it is only fair to add that they seem to be
better behaved. For instance, the Seventh
Commandment is really understood and re-
spected amongst them, and few among them
will drink rum to excess, even when they have
the chance. In the Marquesas the men cared
for nothing else, and the gendarme had to
warn us that we must never give them more
than one glass, however much they might beg
for it.
Yesterday the twenty-one natives came on
board accompanied by M. Donat They were
of all ages, from an old lady of eighty down to
a dear little brown baby of about four months
old. Louis took them over the yacht, which
they greatly admired, and then we gave them
biscuits and jam and ginger-snaps, and to the
ladies some syrup and water, while the men
were given their choice between that and rum.
Several at first took rum, but the syrup was
so much appreciated that they all changed
their minds save one man ; and when the syrup
and water made a second round, Louis thought
the ' rum ' man also might like to taste it and
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 153
offered it to him. He refused it, however,
enunciating the one word * t' rum] with a
decision and a fervour which was received
with admiring laughter by the whole party.
It appears that the French admiral was lately
at Fakarava, and invited all the natives on
board his vessel, where they had a band to
play to them while they danced. Of course
we thought our little entertainment would fall
very flat after such a fine one, and you can
fancy how much we were amused to find from
M. Donat that they thought that ours was
much grander, because we gave them plates
and spoons to eat their jam. The admiral
gave them sardines and other good things, but
left them to eat with their fingers in native
style. How easily we are pleased with any-
thing that we are not accustomed to ! And it
was evidently only the honour of the thing
that was appreciated, too, for the captain saw
most of the boys take their jam in the spoon,
but deftly convey it to their mouths with their
thumbs ! Every one was pleased, however,
and that was the great point ; but it is un-
fortunate that they all speak Tahitian here, so
that the words we have picked up in the
154 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Marquesas are of no use to us. We have
learned only one word of salutation in this
new language, ' eurannaj ' 47 which we sing out
to every one we meet.
Yesterday was a lovely day, the sea per-
fectly smooth, and exquisitely reflecting both
the land and sky. The Casco was for the first
time on our voyage ' like a painted ship upon
a painted ocean ' ; and the little, fleecy, white
clouds in the sky were exactly mirrored in the
water. We could see the white coral reefs at
the bottom distinctly, and the sea was a very
tender green that was peculiarly beautiful.
Then at night there was a superb moon, and
Fanny and I sat long on the beach to enjoy it,
while Louis walked up and down playing tunes
on his pipes.
I wonder if I told you that there is not
only a good landing-pier here, but actually
a harbour-light, the first that we have seen
since we left San Francisco. The village
street is entirely shaded by cocoa-nut palms,
and makes at all times a delightful promenade;
but at night, when there is a slight breeze
blowing, the dancing shadows of the leaves
in the moonlight are something absolutely
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 155
fairy-like. Our house is at the far end, quite
twelve minutes' walk from the pier ; and of
course there are no horses here, indeed no
means of conveyance of any kind save boats.
M. Donat has already loaded us with gifts.
First he gave us each a pearl, 48 the captain
included ; mine is a black one. Then to
Fanny and me he gave a small double oyster-
shell lined with gold, and a gold pearl attached
to one side. He has also given us a whole
boxful of pink coral, with one very fine piece
attached to a spray of grey, and a boxful of
fine shells, some of them of the kind called
* benitiers ' with branches of coral growing out
of them. The btnitier 49 shells get their name
from being used for holy water in the churches;
the same kind, you will remember, that we
used to have for Coolin 50 to drink out of in
the dear old days. We were quite distressed
at taking so much, but Fanny fortunately had
a ring which she asked him to send to his
wife, who is at present in Tahiti.
156 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Thursday, September 13.
LOUIS was not feeling very well yester-
day, and wished to get a thorough rest,
so Lloyd and I returned on board the yacht
and left him and Fanny alone in peace and
quiet. A trading schooner came into the
bay ; we were introduced to the captain by M.
Donat, and he came on board to see the Casco,
and presented us with four pairs of very fine
pearl shells and a very large and handsome
'buckie,' which Mr. Goltz says is worth ten
dollars at Honolulu.
A strange thing happened to Louis and
Fanny at night. The catechist (who I told
you is at present in charge of the church)
rushed into the house, and began trying to open
a large chest, which I forgot to include in the
furniture of the sitting-room. When he found
that it would not open, he produced a knife
and forced the lock ; and when Louis objected
to the proceeding, a man outside in the ver-
andah called out in French that it was all
right, and he would explain immediately. This
turned out to be M. Fra^ois, the proprietor
of our house, who had been shipwrecked with
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 157
his wife and little son, and nearly drowned.
They had been coming from the other end of
the island in a small cutter, when in some way
it upset, and they were all thrown out. They
managed to get the boat turned right side up,
but it was so full of water that they could
not climb into it without upsetting it. M.
Francois, who is a very fine-looking young
fellow, half French and half native, was in
despair, and said they must just be drowned ;
but his native wife, who is a splendid swimmer,
declared there was no danger, and they could
take the boat safely in. So they put the
child into the boat, and the father and mother
followed behind pushing it by the tiller; and
this they did from 8 A.M. till five in the after-
noon, when they reached land safe, but worn
out with fatigue, and perishing with cold.
Was it not a wonderful feat of endurance ?
I think they must have been horribly annoyed
after such a home-coming to find their nice
little house in the hands of strangers, but they
are much too polite to acknowledge it. They
have just been on board to visit the Casco, and
do not seem at all the worse for their exer-
tions ; but the wonder is that they were not
158 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
eaten by sharks, for there are several in the
bay. Two days ago one was swimming round
and round us for some time, an ugly fellow
indeed ; and last night when Lloyd was out
fishing with the captain and M. Donat, he had
a very large fish on his hook, and was playing it
gently, when a shark came up and carried off fish
and hook and line at one fell swoop. I think
Lloyd did not much enjoy the fishing after that.
One disadvantage of a yacht is that every-
thing must be kept so spick and span about
her that whenever we are at anchor we live
in a chronic state of house-cleaning/ All the
time we were at Anaho it was going on, and
here again we are being repainted, and to-day
two natives have been sitting on a rope in the
water cleaning the copper. Then the deck
must be holystoned again, and after that has
been done we have to wipe our boots with
our pocket-handkerchief before we venture on
board ! We sometimes threaten to go our
next trip in a trading schooner or a canal
barge in order to escape such trying tidiness.
I don't mean to state that we are actually
ordered to wipe our boots, but one cannot help
entering into the spirit of the thing !
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 159
Monday, September 17.
"\ 7ESTERDAY we attended service in the
A native church, and were very much
interested. It was at 9 A.M. there were eight
men and seventeen women present, including
two babies who never made a sound. The
catechist was dressed in a black gown with
a small cape trimmed with lace ; he looked
very ministerial, I thought. The service was
entirely in the native language, and the
people joined in most of it with great interest :
a woman acted as clerk, and led the singing,
which was not bad, but had a considerable
nasal twang, which reminded me of Gaelic
congregations in Arran many years ago. The
sermon came last, and was preached with great
vigour, and with much graphic and telling
gesticulations ; the catechist, Taniero, 51 seemed
full of his subject, and even we who could
not understand a word did not find it
wearisome. It reminded me of an Italian
sermon that I once heard and enjoyed at
Genoa; the gestures were less polished and
elegant, but had just the same convincing
fervour. It was touching to see the people
160 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
about us, well-dressed, attentive, and reverent,
and to remember how lately they had been
redeemed from heathenism. Louis and I
were both greatly and deeply moved. The
sermon was read from manuscript, and M.
Donat has promised to get at least a part of
it translated, and copied out for us, which will
be very interesting.
In the afternoon I walked on past our house
to see how far the cocoa-nut boulevard ex-
tended. I followed it for about a mile further,
and then it quite suddenly came to an end ; so
I thought I would cross the island and return
by the ocean beach. However, I made the
discovery that some parts of the island are
broader than others, for after forcing my way
with some difficulty through the trees I seemed
no nearer the other side than when I started,
and came at last to such very thick under-
brush that I could get no further, and was
obliged ignominiously to retrace my steps and
return by the road. The sun heat is much
greater here than it has been in any other
place, and we are warned that it is not safe to
be out in it from 9 A.M. till 3 P.M. That cuts the
day very short, seeing that the sun sets at six
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 161
o'clock, but we can walk about under the trees
at any time, and we almost never feel the need
of a siesta. I am always awake soon after six
o'clock, and dressed before seven, so I expect to
be as active as you by the time I get home again !
Tuesday morning.
A SCHOONER has just come into the
bay, and will take letters, so I shall
finish this and send it off.
Louis was better yesterday, and would have
come on board again, but Valentine has a bad
cold, and he is afraid of infection ; so Lloyd
will stay on shore as man-of-all-work to look
after the household. Louis is trying to hire
a small cutter which belongs to a trader here,
to go and see two of the neighbouring islands
that have not good enough anchorage for
the Casco ; unfortunately Captain Smith, the
owner, is ill, and can't go himself, and he has
not yet made up his mind as to whether he
can trust his cutter to any other person. If
we do not arrange this, we shall start very
soon for Tahiti, where God grant I may get
good news of you all. I do long so much for
letters after these three months of silence !
L
162 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Yacht ' Casco,' Fakarava, Paumotus Islattds,
September 23, 1888.
LAST Monday, for the first time in my life,
I attended a funeral. The father of
one of the men who had been cleaning the
bottom of the Casco on Saturday died sud-
denly on Monday morning, and we heard that
the funeral was to take place at 4 P.M. Louis
was anxious to see it, and I went with him.
The man was said to have been a Mormon, 52
but on inquiry this seems to mean something
very like a Baptist, with this new and peculiar
difference that when a man commits sin he goes
and confesses, and is then baptized over again ! 63
The coffin was made of plain deal, and was
covered with a white cloth. It was carried by
four men by means of thick poles resting on
their shoulders, from which the coffin was sus-
pended by ropes. Most of the inhabitants of
the village followed in their ordinary attire.
Last of all, I was touched to see the poor
old widow, carrying the mat on which her
husband had died, and which was now to
cover his grave. The proper minister was
away, but a layman read the service very nicely
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 163
so far as we were able to judge. He read the
fourteenth chapter of Job, gave a short address,
and two short prayers, all very quietly and
with reverence. It is the custom here for the
nearest relatives to pass the first fortnight on
the grave, but on this occasion it was rendered
impossible by the downpour of rain. Every-
thing was conducted with proper solemnity,
and one could not feel that there was anything
strange or unusual about it. I went to see
the grave afterwards, and found it carefully
covered with the mat, which was held down by
large stones placed at each corner.
I think I forgot in my last letter to tell you
that the catechist's name is Taniera Mahinui\
Taniera being the native rendering of Daniel.
He is in and out of our house continually,
and often shares our meals ; and to-day I
went twice to church to hear him, and quite
enjoyed it. I was delighted to find that the
Bible is so much used, and one printed in
London, moreover ; and then, of course, a^
Taniera is only a catechist he cannot celebrate
Mass, so I never feel that I am in a Roman
Catholic Church, but rather in a Gaelic one in
our own Highlands.
164 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
September 26. At sea^ on our way to 7*ahiti.
ON Monday we said good-bye to all our
good friends at Fakarava, and gave
them a few farewell gifts. One of these was
a bag of flour, that was immediately baked
into small loaves, tied up with strips of cocoa-
nut leaf, 54 and distributed among all the in-
habitants equally. When the captain and I
went ashore, we found Taniera sitting with
Louis in his working clothes he is a boat-
builder by trade, which consist of blue cotton
trousers, and an apron with a bib, leaving an
ample stretch of brown satin skin exposed to
view. What wonderful skins they all have,
by the way ! Lloyd introduced him to the
captain, saying, ' This is the clergyman of the
district ; you must shake hands with him ' ;
and I must say the designation and the attire
did make a very ludicrous combination.
When we took leave of Taniera, Lloyd
wanted to give him a good present, and the
only thing left that we could reasonably do
without was a little carriage-clock that I had
bought in New York ; it had a leather case,
and kept excellent time, and was really a
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 165
wonder for its price. It had originally been
intended for giving away; but as all our
watches have learnt Kanaka habits and have
refused to work in the tropics, we have found
the little clock too useful to us to be parted
with. However, after an internal struggle
which I own was severe, my respect for the
church carried the day, and Taniera became
its happy possessor.
M. Donat, kind man that he is, has con-
tinued to load us with gifts during the whole
time that we have been here ; almost every
day he sent cocoa-nuts both to our house and
to the Casco, and we have so many pearl-
shells that we begin to think we shall have to
pay duty on them. ' T'rum ' was the messenger
generally sent to deliver the gifts, and he was
very fond of coming, as he got a taste of his
favourite beverage to make up for his trouble.
We always called him ' T'rum ' indeed I do
not remember ever hearing his real name
and he always appeared to be freshly delighted
each time that we did so. He evidently looked
upon it as a very humorous and pleasing com-
pliment. Yesterday morning, at 7 A.M., he
accompanied M. Donat on board to say good-
1 66 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
bye, and we could see them standing side by
side on the pier till we were almost out of
sight ; it was strange to feel that both, in
their degree, had grown to be good friends
to us. There was much saluting with flags
and waving of hats and handkerchiefs as we
stood out from the shore, and the Sunday flag
was even hauled up to do us especial honours.
We had a good wind that suited us very
well, and got out of the lagoon very quickly ;
we then passed Toau and Mau, two more of
the Paumotus group, and that, I suppose, is the
last that any of us will see of any of them. To
come to a place so shut into the midst of
waters, to live in it, grow wonderfully at home
in it, and then to leave it so utterly behind, is
almost painfully dreamlike. I wonder if in my
sleep I shall walk in the shade of the cocoa-
palms, and hear once more the surf breaking
on the ocean beaches. . . .
We expected to reach Papeete to-day, but
the wind fell, and now I believe we cannot
hope to arrive before to-morrow ; and that will
be thirteen weeks to a day since we left San
Francisco. I am sorry to say that Louis has
never been quite well since his unfortunate
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 167
excursion with Frere Michel in Hiva-oa ; and
on Monday when he returned on board he got
a fresh chill and had a threatening of con-
gestion similar to what he had at Nice. He
was pretty bad all yesterday, but I am glad to
say that to-day he seems a good deal better
and is on the sofa, where he looks much more
restful and comfortable than in the low and
narrow berth. We are thankful to be going
to a place where we can get a doctor if
we need one, and also, where we can get
fresh food ; for we could not beg, borrow,
nor steal even such a thing as an egg at
Fakarava. By the way, did you ever hear
of such a thing as two hens attending on
one family of chickens ? There was a hen-
house in our garden at Fakarava, furnished,
when we took possession, with two hens sit-
ting, the one on seven eggs, the other on none.
In due time the seven little chickens came out,
and we suppose that the mother engaged the
other hen as lady-help ; for she immediately
forsook her own nest and devoted herself to
the care of the precious nurslings, but quite
evidently in a subordinate position. The two
hens and the seven chickens were always to be
1 68 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
seen in a body, and the best understanding
seemed to prevail ; but we observed on one
occasion, when a shower came on, that the
nurse was given the larger share of the
chickens to protect from the wet.
Papeete?* September 29.
WE came in sight of Tahiti at daybreak
on Thursday, and I was on deck
before seven to see all that was to be seen.
The mountains are high and undeniably fine
in form and outline, but by no means so
beautiful nor so richly wooded as the high
peaks of Hiva-oa ; I am told that the altitude
here is greater, but they give a punier '"mpres-
sion. There is a fringing reef of coral all
round the island, with entrances here and there
marked by red and white buoys ; but as sc on
as we drew near a pilot boarded us and brought
us into Papeete Bay, where we cast anchor
about noon. Lloyd and the captain went off
at once to the American consul for letters,
which we were all longing to receive ; but to
my surprise and chagrin there were no more
than three for me, and of those only one was
from you. It contains good news of you all,
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 169
however, and I am thankful to have it ; and as
another mail is daily expected, and indeed is
already overdue, I may get another from you
very soon.
Fanny and I went on shore to look for
rooms for Louis and her, and found some in
the Hotel de France, where they will be
tolerably comfortable. It is rather noisy at
night, however, and if this disturbs Louis they
will probably move to a small wooden house
of five rooms and an outside kitchen which we
also discovered. It is unfurnished, so we shall
have to hire what is necessary, but mattresses,
pans and dishes, etc., can of course be taken
from the Casco, as we did at Fakarava.
September 30.
' I ^"HIS morning I set off for church, hoping
-L for an English service ; but alas ! the
minister was ill and the church was closed,
which was a great disappointment. It appears
that there has been an epidemic of influenza
here lately ; it was brought from Chile, and
was of a very severe type ; 56 and we are
inclined to believe that Louis was somehow
infected with it at Fakarava. His cough was
1 70 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
so bad yesterday that we sent for the doctor,
who prescribed some medicine for him that
certainly gave him a quiet and fairly com-
fortable night. It is terribly vexing to us
all, when we remember how well he was
before this, but I trust he will soon throw
it off.
I don't much like Tahiti. It seems to me
a sort of halfway house between savage life and
civilisation, with the drawbacks of both and
the advantages of neither. Also a disagreeable
feature of the place is the prevalence of land-
crabs. 57 The ground is literally riddled with the
large holes made by them : when you turn a
quiet corner you come upon twenty or thirty
all looking out of their doors, but as soon
as they hear any one coming, they scuttle
in at express speed. They are decidedly
ugly-looking customers, though I believe even
more anxious to avoid us than we are to keep
clear of them. This afternoon I watched a big
fellow dragging a large withered leaf after him,
which with no little difficulty he succeeded in
packing into his hole, I suppose to make a
bed of. He was very busy, and I watched him
with a sort of disgusted fascination. . . . Louis's
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 171
illness, of course, depresses us all, and keeps
us from seeing much or having any desire to
do so. Lloyd has attended to those duties that
could not well be put off. He called on King
Pomare, but missed him ; on the governor,
who kindly promised to lend us horses when
we need any ; and also on the officers of the
Scorpion, the French man-of-war lying in the
bay. Two of them have since returned the
call and were very polite, but they were amazed
when I assured them that I enjoyed being at
sea, and seemed to think it most unnatural : no
Frenchwoman had ever been heard of who
could endure it !
Louis and Fanny moved to the small house
I spoke of on Monday last. We hired a bed,
a few chairs and tables, and a lamp, and took
over some dishes, etc., from the Casco. You
would be surprised to see how comfortable
they are, under the circumstances. But the
cold is still troublesome, and I grieve to say
that the last two days there have been slight
threatenings of haemorrhage nothing to be
called serious, but still it is always alarming
and distressing. Of course we can make no
plans until he is better, and when we may
172 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
reach Honolulu and get the letters that must
be there awaiting us, who can tell ?
Louis's little house is just opposite the
English consul's ; next to that is the native
church ; and next that again the old prison,
now in ruins, in which Herman Melville and
the 'long doctor' were confined, as you will
remember, if you have read Omua. 58 I wonder
if you have been able to get it. The consul is
a Mr. Talbot, a very nice man, but unfortun-
ately for us he leaves by the steamer that will
carry this letter to you. He has told Fanny
that she may take anything she likes out of his
kitchen when he leaves, and we are going over
to-morrow to see what might be useful. It has
been arranged also that for the present either
Lloyd or Valentine will sleep on shore, so as
to be at hand to help in case Louis should be
ill through the night.
There are but two roads on the island, it
appears : one that goes all the way round the
coast, and another that passes up by a valley
into the interior. I have had only one drive
as yet, for our time seems to be mostly taken
up with running backwards and forwards
between the house and the yacht; besides
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 173
which, Lloyd and I are busy making a type-
written copy of Louis's diary, and this fills up
the entire mornings. There are some very
fine avenues of trees in and round the town.
Mangoes abound, some of them very large,
fine trees, with beautiful dark-green foliage
and heavy-laden with fruit, growing very
prettily in huge bunches hanging on amber-
coloured threads. Pineapples, too, are begin-
ning to be very plentiful, and are very good
in quality.
I found the native church open last Friday
and went in for a short time : it was a fast-day
service, and the church was filled with a very
well-behaved congregation. A native minister
was preaching, but he was entirely wanting
in the energy and conviction which made the
Fakarava catechist so interesting to watch, so,
as I heard that the services were very long, I
did not venture back again on Sunday.
October 13.
I AM thankful to say that Louis is keeping
much better. He has been out for the
last three days, and he says he does not feel
nearly so weak as he expected after this severe
174 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
illness ; he has even been twice to the hotel for
dinner, though usually he and Fanny have their
meals sent in to them.
Our minds being easier, we are now grow-
ing more interested in our surroundings. I
have only once had a drive since we arrived,
and that was the first since I left San
Francisco ; but this week we mean to have
a drive every day, to see something of the
island. On Friday Captain Otis, Lloyd, and
I went in a small tug-steamer to the island
of Eimeo. 59 We took some lunch with us to
eat under the trees, and the native who carried
our basket brought us four cocoa-nuts, and a
roasted crayfish as large as a lobster and very
good, to add to the repast. The gendarme in
residence wanted us to dine with him, though
he was having a party, as it happened, and a
very nice native offered us the use of his
very nice house he himself was one of the
gendarme's guests, but we preferred our pic-
nic and stuck to our own plans. The island is
very beautiful, with strangely-shaped moun-
tains, that remind me of the Giant's Causeway,
but still none of us would allow that it came
up to the Marquesas ; we are faithful still, and
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 175
I think I always shall be, to our first love
in the South Seas. The little steamer that
carried us there and back was filthily dirty,
and we were all glad to get 'home' to our
own clean, bright Casco once more, and told
the captain we should never again grumble at
any amount of wet paint and varnish !
It may be nearly Christmas before this
reaches you, and I know that you will not
forget to think of me. Do not feel my place
empty, for I shall be there in thought, and
in my heart I shall see you all, as you will
see me.
Yacht ' Casco,' Papeete Bay, Tahiti,
October 19, 1888.
I WONDER if you will be able to believe
that this is a letter from me ? Lloyd and
I have finished making the copy of Louis's
diary, and it occurred to me it might be a
good thing to have another typewriter in
the family : so I took my first lesson yester-
day, and in order not to waste time I mean
to practise upon you. A printed letter, how-
ever, does look so public and impersonal that
176 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
it seems almost impossible to take it au strieux.
I wonder if anybody would venture to make
a proposal of marriage by means of a type-
writer, and still more do I wonder whether
any one would be brave enough to accept it !
I am glad to tell you that Louis keeps
much better. He has been to lunch at the
hotel several times, and has also called on
the governor, and yesterday he even took a
short drive. We had thought of taking a
drive right round the island ; this, however,
we gave up, for we did not like to be away
four days from Louis, and it would have been
out of the question for him. So we decided
on some short drives instead, but there is not
much variety, as there are only two driving
roads.
October 20.
I THINK I did not tell you that when I
was in the native church a lady intro-
duced herself to me. Her name is Mrs. Darsie,
and she was the daughter of the queen, or
'chieftess,' as the French call her, of the other
side of the island, was first married to a Mr.
Brander, and then to Mr. Darsie, who hails
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 177
from Anstruther, no less! Two of her sons
by her first marriage were educated at St.
Andrews, and know many of our friends there.
We went yesterday to see them at their
country house at Point Venus, 60 about eight
miles out of the town : the drive was delight-
ful, through woods and over mountains, from
which we had lovely views of sea and 'land.
We first went to see the tamarind-tree planted
by Captain Cook ; it has been dead for a long
time, and has been taken possession of by
the proprietors of a sort of public-house near
by, called ' a I'arbre de Cook. ' We carried off
a little piece of the tree, which is fast going
to decay, and which is quite unprotected and
exposed. We then visited the lighthouse, the
first we have seen since we left San Francisco
(saving, of course, the little harbour light at
Fakarava, but that is a different matter) ; it
is a fine building of grey coral, mixed with
a pretty red stone, which looks very well
and effective. We then went to the Darsies'
house, which stands in the midst of large
grounds, close to the sea, and found there
a large and pleasant family party assembled,
consisting of Salmons (Mrs. Darsie was a
M
178 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Miss Salmon), Branders, and Darsies, in what
proportion we never entirely found out. Nearly
all the men were good-looking, and the women,
I think without a single exception, beautiful :
even a small strain of Tahitian blood is said,
I believe, to ensure this wonderful physical
perfection and the grace of manner for which
they are always so much admired.
The Darsies' town house is just a little out-
side of Papeete, at the end of a lovely avenue :
it seemed to be a large place, and to have a
beautiful garden, but when we called there we
found they had gone to Point Venus, and
hence our expedition thither. Of course, you
know that it is so called because Captain Cook
observed from thence the transit of Venus.
October 21.
MRS. DARSIE called to see Louis yes-
terday, and I am so sorry we did not
know her sooner, as she could have given us
so much useful information about Tahiti. She
told me a great deal about the missionaries.
She herself was brought up by one, and has
had much to do with them. The people, she
says, were fond of the English missionaries,
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 179
and felt very much having to part with
them ; but they get on well with their present
minister, who, though he is a Frenchman,
follows the same methods. The Protestants
keep well together, and very, very few have
become Roman Catholics, 61 in spite of many
inducements to do so. Fortunately the present
Governor is a liberal man, and lets the people
please themselves about religious matters ; and
though many are indifferent and care for no-
thing but ' show ' and amusement, there are
also many who are intelligent and sincere.
Mrs. Darsie has a sort of Scripture class for
the natives every Sunday in her own house :
they prepare a text and talk about it, and
she tells me that she is often not only touched,
but surprised by their remarks. . . .
We hope to get off to-morrow about noon,
but Louis and Fanny will not come on board
till the morning. On the whole, we are not
at all sorry to leave, as we have none of. us
been greatly attracted by this place. As I
have said before, it is neither quite civilised
nor wholly savage, but has a sort of half-and-
half-ness that is disappointing, and sometimes
really displeasing. I think the bay is the best
i8o FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
part of Papeete. The view of the mountains
and town from the deck of the Casco is lovely,
especially in the mornings and evenings ; the
highest peak is seven thousand feet high, and
the land begins to rise steeply very close to
the beach. There are always plenty of ships
in the bay; most of the time we have lain
here there were two men-o'-war, and it amused
me to watch their proceedings. The most
interesting moments were eight o'clock in the
morning and six in the evening, as at these
hours the flags are put up and taken down,
and the manoeuvre is pretty. On Sundays
there was an extra display, as every vessel
hoisted a flag, and the Consulates as well.
Some have specially large and fine flags for
Sunday use, and others put up an extra
number. We feel ourselves particularly showy
with three : the ' Stars and Stripes/ because
the Casco is an American yacht ; the red
ensign, because she is chartered by a British
subject; and the flag of the yacht club of which
Louis was made a member. A gun is fired
on board the man-of-war, and the general
ambition is to get all the flags hoisted at
the same moment and without a hitch ; it
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 181
is really a pretty sight, and I very seldom
missed it.
Another amusement of which I never tired
was watching the native boats coming in with
fruit for the market ; they looked so pretty
piled high with green and red bananas, 62 yellow
mangoes, bread-fruit, the ubiquitous nuts, long
pieces of green bamboo, which are filled with
a preparation of cocoa-nut, 63 and many other
things nicely wrapped up in green leaves. I
once counted fourteen of these large boats all
coming in at one time, and their cargo, when
carefully spread out on the beach, looked most
tempting. There is a certain daintiness in the
native fashion of always laying food upon fresh
green leaves, and I must say that in spite of
the lack of so much that we are accustomed to
think necessary, neither the food nor their way
of eating it ever struck me as unseemly or
unrefined.
I was also very much interested in watching
the fishermen, of whom there were always
several in their canoes round about the Casco,
as they thought the fish would be attracted
by the grease from the yacht. Sometimes
there would be half a dozen boats about us,
1 82 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
waiting for hours with the patience of fisher-
men the world over, and apparently with very
indifferent success. Occasionally Captain Otis
gave them presents of some fishing-hooks,
which were very gratefully received, though
I am told they are very clever at manufactur-
ing them out of some kind of root, or out of
old nails. 64 I have often regretted that Louis
missed all these sights, which he would have
enjoyed as much as I ; but nothing could be
seen from the house they occupied, as it stood
amongst many trees some way from the beach,
and lost the light early.
Sunday ', October 28.
MY typed letter was but a slow and
uneasy business, so to-day I have
gone back to the more familiar and personal
pen. . . . We did not get away from Papeete
till Wednesday the 24th, and at the last
moment Louis made up his mind to visit
another part of Tahiti called J^aravao before
going on to Huahine in the Societies. We
had a disagreeable voyage, first a dead calm,
and then a severe gale, and we took thirty
hours to cover sixty miles ; but now that
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 183
we are here, it is worth it all, for the scenery
is beautiful and much more truly tropical than
anything we have yet seen. On Friday,
Fanny, Captain Otis, Lloyd, Valentine, and
I went for a charming drive to a village a few
miles from here ; we all enjoyed it immensely,
for we drove through dense forests nearly all
the way. I never saw anything like the
wealth of foliage ; great trees were draped to
the very top with beautiful tangled creepers,
some of them covered with fruit as large as
a vegetable marrow. This fruit is called
' barbadine,' 65 and is excellent to eat. We
were at no time far from the sea, and some-
times there were exquisite glimpses of blue
water between the trunks of the trees; but
more often we were shut in by a very riot
of vegetation. On our way we had to cross
no less than twenty-one streams of varying
width ; one of them being so deep that, rather
to our dismay, the Chinaman who drove us
insisted on carrying over Fanny, the captain,
and Lloyd, on his back, so as to lighten the
weight on the horses. It was a relief to find
that Valentine and I were considered light
enough to be allowed to remain in the vehicle.
1 84 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
The village of Tautira, 66 when we reached
it, we found to be indeed a lovely spot, with
numbers of very fine native houses scattered
about a beautiful green lawn close to the sea.
There are two churches, a Roman Catholic,
and what our driver gravely called a Roman
Protestant one. It appeared that we had
chosen an interesting day, for the king's
sister-in-law had just arrived on a visit to
the village, and we saw all the presents that
had been prepared for her. They consisted,
in the main, of an immense pig roasted whole,
and a large number of pillows stuffed with
silk cotton, 67 which grows in pods on a large
and fine tree that is very plentiful here. As
we walked through the village we saw these
things laid out in front of the chiefs house,
and a catechist was asking a blessing on them.
We stopped and assisted, our men taking off
their hats. It was a pretty and pleasant sight,
but I think it was the very longest ' grace '
I ever heard, save Dr. 's at the Blind
Asylum Christmas dinner, very many years
ago.
As we walked about we noticed a nice little
house that was to let, which we thought was
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 185
worth remembering in case Louis should need
to go ashore again ; for he is hardly well
enough for the yacht yet, I am sorry to say.
He can't sleep at all on board. Last night was
a particularly bad one, and left him so worn
out that Fanny made up her mind to set off
at once for Tautira before he should get
worse ; and now I feel very anxious about
him till I hear how he has stood the drive.
Lloyd, who has gone with them, will come
back to-morrow, and I do trust he will bring
me good news. This place where we are is
not suitable for Louis; it is very draughty,
with a constant but unsteady current of air
blowing down between the mountains, which
made it impossible for him to be on deck at
all. That is the worst thing about good
anchorages for sailing vessels ; they are
generally draughty, as of course if too shel-
tered there is no wind to take you in or out.
This is a fine bay, and the French intend, they
say, to make a large dock for warships in it.
The entrance is very difficult, first through the
reef, and then through a very narrow passage
between two points of rock, so that in case
of any disturbance it could be very easily
1 86 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
defended. Meantime, however, there are
very few houses to be seen, and no church
at all.
The captain had to go back to Papeete
to look for a new sailor in place of one who
is leaving us. We have had a good many
changes in the crew lately : first our superior
mate had to go, because he could not with-
stand the temptations of port, and was con-
tinually drunk ; poor old man, it was grievous
to see him ; then Wallin and Fred had to be
dismissed ; and now Charles is ill and must
go. They say it is what always happens at
Papeete, so that no ship, or rather no captain,
likes to put in there. I don't like the changes
at all. Our new mate is a Dutchman, called
Reuter, and we have one Henry from Hono-
lulu, Atta, a native from Papeete, and Jack,
an English boy who went to New Zealand
as a stowaway.
October 31.
I AM thankful to say that Lloyd brought
back what was on the whole very
good news of Louis. He stood the drive
wonderfully well and had a comfortable
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 187
night after it, which was more than we ex-
pected. The house was very clean and neatly
furnished, and Louis liked the place much
better than this. The chief is a Salmon, a
cousin of Mrs. Darsie's ; he is an educated
man, and will be of great use to Louis.
The captain also has come back from
Papeete, and has been fortunate in getting an
excellent man, a French-Canadian, who was
formerly mate in our friend Mr. 's schooner,
so he should be worth having. The pilot who
brought us here from Papeete, by the way, is
still hanging on in the hope of taking us out
again ; he says now that we can lie quite
comfortably and safely at Tautira, where
Louis is, and that would save him the journey
back. So very probably we may go thither
to-morrow or next day. To get there we
shall have to sail all round the peninsula, 68 so
we shall see a good deal of Tahiti before we
are done with it. The captain tells me that
no part of the road between this place and
Papeete is nearly so beautiful as the road to
Tautira, so I believe we have really had the
best of the scenery. Here, at any rate, there
is nothing at all interesting, and very few
i88 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
houses. Lloyd and I went for a walk one
day to explore the neighbourhood, and came
upon a small village ; we went into one house
(there is nothing that pleases the natives more
than to do so) where a man was lying upon
some mats ill. I was very much interested
to observe that two chairs were slung up to
the roof. They were evidently looked upon
as luxuries to be kept safely out of the way
upon ordinary occasions. One of the men
gave Lloyd some of the food that they were
eating : it was a sort of poi-poi made of sweet
potato, taro, and cocoa-nut, all mixed together.
Lloyd tasted it rather cautiously, but declared it
was very good, so they wrapped up some more
in a large leaf and insisted on his taking it away
with him. On our way home a little later, the
same man was waiting for us, and presented
us with a pair of large pearl shells quite black
inside. We are told they are valuable, being
very rare. 69
As we shall be altogether beyond the reach
of mails at Tautira, I mean to send this letter
from here to Papeete. There is a chance that
it will get home sooner than if I wait to post
it at Huahine ; and besides there is always a
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 189
little uncertainty as to when, and whether, we
shall get there. All depends, of course, upon
Louis. ,
Tautira, Tahiti,
November 5, 1888.
WE left Taravao on Friday morning ;
and after a rough and rather un-
pleasant voyage round the peninsula, where
every one on board was more or less ill but
myself, we cast anchor inside the reef here
at 8 A.M. on Saturday. Lloyd rode over on
the Friday, partly to avoid the sail, which we
expected would be trying, and partly to have
a horse for the pilot to ride back on ; he came
off in a canoe to meet us as soon as we arrived,
and brought us tolerable accounts of Louis.
He is delighted with his surroundings here,
and that is a great matter. He is in the very
midst of the large village, and the life of it
goes on all around him ; the little girls even
play special games of hopscotch or should
I call it hop-Tahiti ? before his window to
amuse him. The chief, who lives just op-
posite, has been most kind, and Princess Moe
190 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
(the king's sister-in-law, who arrived the day
we first drove over, and in whose honour the
great pig was roasted) has been really de-
voted in her attentions. She sometimes cooks
dishes herself specially for his dinner, and the
chief carries them across with an apron on!
One night, when Louis was not at all well, 70
she could not sleep, she was so much distressed
about him, and in the morning she insisted
upon his moving into her own house, which
she has put at his service for as long as he
likes. One reason for this move was that
she thought the people were charging a great
deal too much for the house he was in ; and
this was certainly true, as the one at Papeete
was just half the rent, and that was 'in
town.' The princess is a delightful creature,
and speaks English very well indeed ; we
believe her to be the same Queen Moe of
Raiatea spoken of in a recent book of travel,
and after seeing her we think it was rather
familiar to speak of her in such terms as we
found therein, as she is really a dignified and
imposing personage. She has gone back to
Papeete this morning, and we shall all miss
her very much ; she came on board the Casco
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 191
to sit awhile with me, both on Saturday and
yesterday evening.
Yesterday morning I went to service at
the native Protestant church. I arrived when
they were in the middle of a prayer, and just
knelt down by one of the open doors ; but as
soon as the princess spied me out, she came
and took me into her own seat. The church
is quite a large one, with many doors and
windows, the latter fitted with something like
Venetian blinds instead of glass, so that there
is plenty of air. There are comfortable
wooden benches, with backs. The Communion
Table yesterday was all set ready, and com-
pletely covered over with a white cloth. . The
native minister stood in front of the table
dressed in a blue and white pareu, which is a
piece of cotton stuff put on like an unplaited
kilt, a rather long black coat and white tie,
and, of course, bare feet. It was a little
difficult to realise that he was the minister !
I regretted the nice, proper-looking gown of
Taniera at Fakarava ; but the people here
are Independents, and belong to the London
Missionary Society. The service was very
much like our own at home ; the singing was
192 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
led by the women of the congregation, and
the minister went into the precentor's box
for the sermon, but never entered the pulpit
at all. I wonder whether the use of that is
kept for the English or French missionaries,
and it is tapu for the natives.
There was a large congregation, and as
usual, lots of babies and children of all ages,
many of them lying about on the empty floor-
space round the Communion Table. They
were rather more noisy than native children
usually are, and once two naughty boys began
a game at ball ; this, however, was at once put
a stop to by a tall man who rose from a back
bench, and the ball was removed by one of
the matrons. After the sermon two babies
were brought in to be baptized. One of them
was dressed in a gorgeous lace robe, with a
cap of lace and white satin ribbon, such as I
have not seen for many a long year. The
baptismal service was exceedingly short and
simple : the minister took the baby in his
arms, asked its name, and at once baptized it,
pouring three good handfuls of water on to
its face, one at the name of each Person of
the Trinity. I asked the princess afterwards
REV. LEWIS BALFOUK, D.I).
MINISTER OF COHNTON
' A Herd of men "
Memories and rortraits, R. /.. S.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 193
why there were neither any questions asked
nor promises made ; she told me that unfor-
tunately the babies were too often the children
of unmarried girls who were not church mem-
bers, and the missionaries, being driven to
despair over this, had at last made it a rule
that when any church member brought a child
to be baptized, it should be done, and no
questions asked. It seems a very doubtful
method, but it is supposed to prevent alien-
ating the girls, and to keep the children under
church influence, and better results are hoped
for with time and training. Certainly the
more one sees and hears of what goes on
here, the more one can understand the Indian
system of early marriages !
When the christenings were over, and the
princess rose to leave the church, I asked if
there were not to be Communion ; she said yes,
and inquired if I wished to stay. When I
said that I did wish it very much, she at once
offered to introduce me to the minister, as
she could not herself stay with me that day.
When she did this I found myself most
warmly and heartily welcomed ; and indeed
I found it very touching to share that feast
N
i 9 4 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
with these brothers and sisters so recently
rescued from heathendom. When the cloth
was removed from the Communion Table, it
disclosed the wine in two black beer-bottles,
and the cups were made of very common
earthenware, that sort of iridescent coppery
gold, that women used to carry about the
country in baskets long ago in Scotland. The
bread was baked bread-fruit, broken into very
small pieces. The service, apart from these
things, was all that one could wish, and much
the same as our own, except that the bread
and wine were handed separately to each
communicant, and that there was a separate
prayer of consecration for the wine after the
bread had been handed to all. This seems to
me to follow the original more closely than we
do, and it brought to my mind a line of the
familiar paraphrase, ' And God anew He
thanked and praised.'
When the service came to an end, I found,
to my intense surprise, that I was to receive
the * right hand of fellowship ' from every
member of the congregation. First of all, the
ministers and deacons came forward and shook
hands most warmly with me, and then I was
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 195
invited to stand at the door and shake hands
and say ' Yuranna ' * to every man and woman
as they went out. (I am not sure how to spell
that word ; I mentioned it once before, at
Fakarava, where it is also the general greet-
ing ; but here it is pronounced a little differ-
ently.) I felt that I could sympathise for once
with our missionaries at home when they find
themselves in something the same sort of
position. The enthusiasm and friendliness of
the people, however, were both touching and
amusing; one nice old lady could hardly be
prevented from dragging me off bodily to her
house. The next thing that happened was,
that they deputed the chief to go and tell
Louis that they were collecting things to make
a feast for their new member, and that these
would be presented to me at nine o'clock on
Monday morning at Louis's house. When in
turn Louis told this to me, I remarked, ' Well, I
have always believed that "Godliness was great
gain" but I never before had such immediate
proof of its holding good even in this world ! '
Well, I went ashore this morning in good
time, and by and by we saw people arriving
* See note 47, ' iao ranua,'
from various directions, with sticks balanced
upon their shoulders, and a most varied assort-
ment of articles slung from them. When
every one was ready, they walked forward all
together and laid down what they had brought
on the grass in front of our verandah, taking
care to place the things, we noticed, in an
orderly semicircle, and arranging each offering
to look as tempting and beautiful as possible.
Here is an exact list of the gains of godliness
in Tautira :
Six hens, one dozen eggs, one lobster, one
hundred cocoa-nuts, two large bunches of green
bananas, two baskets of ripe bananas, two
bunches of wild bananas for cooking, 71 one
basket of sweet potatoes, 72 two bundles of
taro two bunches of bread-fruit, . . . and
three pineapples !
About thirty women came with the things,
and brought, of course, the usual accompani-
ment of children, and we had another great
hand-shaking all round. The princess had
taught me to say ' Maururu van,' which means
' I thank you,' or rather ' Thank you from me,'
and that pleased them all very much. The chief
was present, and acted as interpreter ; and in
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 197
my name invited them one and all to visit me
on board the Casco on Wednesday afternoon.
I shall have to try and think of something
that I can give them in return. It seems to
me that nothing could be more suitable than a
set of Communion vessels, and at least I could
afford something a little better than what they
have at present. 74
November 6.
WE had a deluge of rain yesterday, which
came through the skylight, stopped
my writing, and drove me into a corner for
shelter. . . . Louis is fairly well again, and is
able to go out for a little walk from time to
time ; but he is terribly thin and white, and
has lost all the fine, healthy-looking sunburn
that we were so proud of, which disappoints
us very much. Still we are very thankful to
see him so far better, and we feel that the
simple, cheerful life here has helped him very
much. We do not feel so much shut off from
the people, even in the matter of language ;
for the chief, whose name is Ariee Teraimano,
speaks French very well, though he does not
know English. He is a good-looking man,
198 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
inclined to stoutness, as so many Tahitians are,
and about twenty-eight years old. Two sisters
and a niece live with him, but the sisters
unfortunately only speak Kanak, and the niece,
who does know French, is too bashful to try
to speak it. Still we all get on together very
well. ... I think now it is likely that we
shall go straight from here to Honolulu, and
give up our visit to Huahine in the Society
Islands ; we have lost so much time in Tahiti,
and I am wearying so much for my letters, that
I shall not be sorry to get away. You can
have no idea how homesick I am for news of
you all.
This is a very lovely place. High and
beautifully-formed mountains sweep close down
to the beach, and they are densely wooded to
the very top ; from the Casco's deck we look
up a beautiful, winding valley with a cataract
tumbling down it, which I long to visit, but,
alas ! there are no roads save the one to
Taravao. We are quite at the world's end
here, in every way ; there is not a shop of
even the most primitive kind, which seems
strange in so large and populous a village.
The people get what they need from small
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 199
schooners that come into the bay to trade,
and about once a week, if he has time, the
Chinaman from Taravao drives over with
bread and other things for sale.
I think the most beautiful feature of the
place, however, is the forest that surrounds it.
There are many lovely ferns both here and
at Taravao ; I found two climbing ones, 75 the
most graceful plants I ever saw; and the bark of
many of the trees is covered with innumerable
ferns of all kinds, right up to the very top.
Some of these, in spite of their position, grow
to a great size ; I saw harts' tongues, for
instance, fully three feet long, and though I
have not seen any maidenhair yet, I found one
that was very like the maidenhair spleenwort.
I was also delighted to find the sensitive
plant 76 growing like a weed by the wayside ;
I shall send you a bit, but it is very difficult to
dry or press, because it shuts up almost if you
look at it. The only way I can manage is to
hold one card very gently underneath it, and
another on the top, and bring them together
suddenly, before it has time to find out what I
am about. I shall also send you a bit of the
'silk-cotton.' By the way, I hear that one of
200 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
my kind fellow-communicants is making a
pillow of it for me, so I have not yet come to
an end of my ' gains of godliness.'
Wednesday evening.
MY little party is over, and has been, I
am glad to say, a great success : thirty
women and three children, one of whom was
a very small baby, arrived in due time, and
each brought me still another present. So
you will please add to the foregoing list as
follows :
Twenty-five cocoa-nut bowls, six pillows
filled with silk-cotton, one orange, a few fine
shells, six fish, and one basket !
They were all very nicely dressed, many
of them in white, trimmed with embroidery,
and their hats were gay with brilliant ribbons,
a bright rose-coloured chenille being much in
favour. They quite filled the cockpit and a
row of chairs placed outside, and looked like a
garden bed full of gay flowers. Many of them,
I noticed, had very nice, sensible faces, and
they were all quiet and modest in manner, very
unlike some of the young girls, more especially
at Papeete. I asked them if they would sing me
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 201
a hymene"?* 1 which they did very readily, and
then, rather to my surprise, proceeded to make
speeches or addresses, and prayers. One of
the old ladies was as earnest and as fluent as
Mrs. herself could have been ; I could
not help being amused at the thought, with so
many other differences, but I wished I could
have understood it all. Our old sailor, Loney,
who knows the language, told us that they
prayed for a blessing on the vessel and on the
captain and every one on board, in return for
' the great kindness we had shown them ' I I had
thought it was rather the other way round. . . .
I must say the captain was very good : he put
up an awning over the deck in their honour,
and went ashore to bring them off and back
himself. I got Loney to tell them how very
grateful I was for all their kindness to me, and
what a pleasure it had been to me to join them
on Sunday in a real mission congregation, as I
had been interested in missions such as theirs
nearly all my life.
We then went down to the saloons, and
gave them preserves and cake of various
kinds, and biscuits, and the much-appreciated
syrup-and-water. We had the dining-room
202 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
twice filled as full as it could possibly hold ; I
helped the preserves and cake, and Valentine
poured out the syrup at the other end of the
table. Meanwhile Fanny and Lloyd enter-
tained the other half, who were not eating, in
the after- cabin. When every scrap had been
disposed of we went on deck again, and one
young lady played us some tunes on the
captain's accordion ; but they were dreadfully
disappointed that I could not play to them, and
begged me over and over again that ' I would
try.' They came about two o'clock, and stayed
till past four. Before they went away I gave
them two bags of flour and a bag of ship's
biscuit (which they like better than anything)
to be divided amongst them, and told them I
was very sorry to have nothing better to give
in return for all their great kindness to me.
There was a little more speechifying, and they
expressed themselves well pleased with every-
thing, and went off looking very happy and
content.
I do not think I ever told you that the
people at Fakarava gave the Casco the name
of Pahi Muni, which means the shining or the
silver ship ; we thought it such a pretty name
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 203
that we have kept it up, and Lloyd has taught
it to the people here. This will explain the
enclosed. Louis wrote a few verses to Princess
Moe before she left, and I send you a type-
written copy for private circulation only ; she
does not wish it to be published, so it is only
to be shown to friends." 5 "
Lloyd has taken to wearing a pareu, the
native garment, in blue and white cotton, with
a white coat, and we think he looks very nice
in it. He goes barefoot, of course. Fanny
too is quite unefemme Tahitienne in her holaku
and bare feet. She lies on a pillow in the chiefs
smoking-room (which is open all round and has
a roof of cocoa-nut bark), and can even take a
whiff of a native cigarette and pass it on to the
other members of the company in the approved
way. They pass much of the day there, the
ladies generally engaged in plaiting hats of
various kinds ; I want to get a lesson in the
work, which is pretty and useful, but I have
not managed it yet. . . .
There is an unexpected chance to send off
this letter to Papeete, and it must be closed at
once. I wonder when it will reach you !
* For the reason stated, the verses are not given here.
204 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
On shore at Tautira, Tahiti,
i^th November 1888.
MY dear , I little thought when I sent
off my letter to you last week, that I
should write another from this place. But
just after it started the captain discovered that
there was something wrong with the main mast
of the Casco, and after minute examination it
turned out that there was dry rot in it ; that
it must have been going on for years, and that
it was an actual miracle it did not give way in
the gale we encountered between Papeete and
Taravao. The captain is very indignant that
the yacht should have been allowed to start on
such a cruise without thorough overhauling,
and blames the last captain, who assured Dr.
M that the vessel was in perfect order.
We feel very thankful that it was found out
before anything more serious happened ; and
I declare that it was in answer to the prayers
of my kind old ladies that it was discovered
before we went to sea, and indeed on the
evening of the very day of my party. The
next question was, what was to be done ? The
Casco must return to Papeete either to get a
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 205
new mast or to have this one patched up, and
should we go too, or remain here ? Louis and
all of us agreed that we would much rather
stay at Tautira, but we did not wish to ' sorn ' *
on our good hosts ; however, when we spoke
to the chief, he assured us so heartily of our
being welcome here, that we decided to stay
where we were. As we needed to draw some
more money, however, it was finally settled
that I should go to Papeete in the Casco on
Sunday, spend Monday in seeing to my busi-
ness and shopping, and come back here on the
Tuesday, which I did. It turned out that no
mast large enough for the yacht was to be
found in Papeete, so the old one is to be
patched up. The captain declares that it can
be made quite safe by the help of iron rings
and bolts. He expects to have everything
ready and in order by the end of next week,
when he will return here to pick us up, and we
shall start at once for Honolulu ; but this busi-
ness will make us at least a fortnight later in
getting our longed-for letters. It is fortunate,
however, that we are in a place that we like so
much, and where the people are so kind to us ;
* To live at the expense of any one Scots.
206 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
where, in spite of so much that is strange about
us, we still have learnt to feel at home.
I have now sailed all round Tahiti, and
driven round half of it. It is certainly a very
beautiful island ; the scenery is so varied, and
near Papeete is quite park-like in character,
with large and splendid trees, many of them
covered with bloom. The scarlet-flowered
acacia 78 was in full beauty and profusion, and
was perhaps the loveliest of all ; the French
call it the 'flamboyant,' and Princess Moe
tells me that it was introduced to the island by
them, so has no native name. Further south
the scenery is much wilder, with great stretches
of the tropical forest vegetation, and we all
admire that far more. I went to see Princess
Moe in Papeete, and she was delighted to hear
that we were staying on for some time yet.
She said she was coming back to Tautira, and
would hasten her return so that she might see
as much of us as possible. . . . On Tuesday
morning, my business being done, I rose at
4 A.M., left the Casco at 5.15, and started from
Papeete at 5.30 in the stage, which is a sort of
spring cart with three benches with backs to
them, and an awning stretched on poles to
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 207
keep off the sun's heat. The bottom of the
cart is packed full of parcels and bundles of all
kinds that are to be delivered on the road, and
you have to dispose of your feet among them
as best you can. A letter-box was hung
over the end of one of the benches, and we
stopped at the post-office of every little village
on our way ; when a post-master or mistress
appeared with a bunch of keys, unlocked the
bag, looked over all the letters it contained,
took out those addressed to that district, and
added any that were to be sent away. You
may fancy that the correspondence is not very
large, or it could scarcely be managed after
such a fashion. Even this rather primitive
and combined mail -coach -and -carrier's -cart,
however, does not come further than Taravao,
which we reached about 12.30, so that I had
to take a private conveyance to come on here,
arriving a little after half-past three, and as
you may imagine, pretty well tired out. I was
very anxious to get home, partly because if I
had passed a night in Taravao, I should have
been obliged to stay at the Chinaman's house,
which, for many reasons, I did not fancy, but
principally because it was my dear boy's birth-
2o8 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
day and I could not bear to spend the whole
of it away from him and quite alone.
I was very glad and relieved to find him
looking wonderfully well, and everything
going on happily. It had been decided not
to celebrate his birthday till the Wednesday,
to make sure of my return, and our hosts were
looking forward to the little festival at which
they had been invited to assist. I must ex-
plain that the proprietor of this house is Ori,
sub-chief of the village ; he is a very fine and
dignified man, over six feet three in height,
and broad in proportion. 79 He is a deacon
of the Protestant Church here, and in the
minister's absence sometimes preaches him-
self. He has a very nice wife, whose name is
Haapie, an adopted son called Paieria, and I
think another (whose father was, I believe, a
white man, in fact a Beritano), one daughter
and two grandchildren. It now turns out that
the princess used her authority to make these
worthy people give up their house to us, and
not only that, but to wait upon us besides.
They have kept for their own use only one
room, which has a separate entrance from the
verandah, and they have indeed been most
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 209
good and kind in every way. They only
take their place as our hosts to the extent
of frequently coming in and sitting beside us.
Ori generally takes a chair, but his wife and
children prefer the floor, which is covered with
beautiful mats made by Haapie herself out of
the leaves of the Pandanus-tree. 80 It occurs to
me, however, that I have never described this
house to you. Our sitting-room is 20 feet 7
inches long by 17 feet 9 inches wide; it is
entered from the front and back verandahs by
two doors, opposite each other, and has four
large windows. The four bedrooms open off
the sitting-room by a door at each corner : the
two front ones are each 12 feet 6 inches by 10
feet 7, and the back ones are larger, as they
include the depth of the back verandah, and
have each a second door opening directly from
it. After many houses that we have seen else-
where it is quite a mansion, and so exquisitely
clean and airy.
On Tuesday evening, when I had had a rest,
we went to the chief's house just next to ours,
and had a lesson in plaiting hats from Tehea,
the chiefs niece. I wish you could have seen
us, all lying on mats spread on the grass before
o
210 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
his house, in moonlight that was literally as
bright as day: the air like milk, and full of sweet
perfumes and quiet sounds. It was so very
pleasant. . . . We learned our lesson, and
have both been hard at work ever since ; you
will be interested to know that I think it is the
very same plait that you used long ago for
making gipsy hats out of shavings and strips
of paper. Fanny is at work on a hat of bam-
boo shavings, which are white and shiny and
rather brittle ; I am making mine of pandanus,
which is tougher, and does not require such
deft fingers. 81 We both wish you were here,
for we are sure you would enjoy this hat-
making industry ; it is the constant occupation
of all ladies in Tahiti. Those made of sugar-
cane are finer than either of ours, and more
thought of, but the best of all are made from
the stalks of the arrowroot plant, 82 which
unfortunately is not yet in season.
Louis's birthday party was a great success.
Two small pigs had been presented to him,
and we had them both roasted in a native
oven. This way of cooking certainly preserves
all the flavour of the meat, and is delicious.
Our first course was a fine dish of prawns, or
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 211
rather of small crayfish ; then followed roast
pig at the top, and roast pig at the foot of
the table, with an excellent sauce made of
grated cocoa-nut, lime juice, and sea water,
Irish potatoes, and roast fei ; after that
canned peaches and cake. Everything was
excellent and very highly appreciated, and
there was but little left in spite of the two
pigs. We had also two bottles of champagne,
which Ori thoroughly enjoyed ; s3 and after
dinner Lou managed to carry on a long con-
versation with him by means of a dictionary
and pen, ink, and paper. It was laborious,
but amusing.
November 17.
OUR life here is really delightful; it is
almost camping out without its draw-
backs, we are so much in the open air. I
am just now sitting on the verandah looking
on the green lawn in front, with the village
street, which is green lawn also, but firmer
under foot than the rest and a little worn
with traffic, only a few yards off. The street
proper is bordered by cocoa-nut palms and
pandanus - trees ; bread-fruits, mangoes, and
bananas are scattered about irregularly in all
212 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
directions. Through the trees I see the native
birdcage-like 84 houses on the other side of the
street, and beyond that the sea stretches away,
and I can hear the surf breaking with a con-
tinuous roar upon the reef further out, and can
catch glimpses of a line of white foam. At
the back of our house is the Roman Catholic
church, and through the back door I can see
Pere Bruno walking backwards and forwards
in front of his little cottage, or reading his
breviary in the verandah.
Our cooking, by the way, is done on a
small oil stove on the back verandah, or if we
have any dish too large for that, we have an
oven arranged outside on the ground. We
have a woman called Sophie, half French and
half native, to help Valentine with the work.
Louis has taken kindly to the native fashion
of eating raw fish, 85 which are said to be very
nutritious ; he eats them with a sauce made
of grated cocoa-nuts and sea water, 86 similar to
that which was so good with the roast pig.
He has a very good appetite now, so I live
in hope of seeing him soon look a little fatter.
Bathing is very fashionable here ; but the
people all bathe in the river, and not in the
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 213
sea, I can't make out why. 87 The boys and
girls climb into high trees and throw them-
selves down into the water like ripe fruit
dropping ; they swim like very fishes, and
the brown creatures look very pretty as they
tumble about. Men and women, boys and
girls, all bathe together, but they are all
decently clothed in pareus ; indeed, the people
here are very modest and particular in such
matters, and no one is allowed to bathe with-
out a pareu even in the most secluded spot.
The other day I went off by myself to find a
quiet place where I might bathe without spec-
tators, but I had not gone far when six children
joined in my train. When I had found a nice
place with a grove of pandanus-trees for a
dressing-room, I told the children to go away ;
they retreated about a couple of yards and
then drew themselves up in a line, to watch
my every movement. It was rather trying,
but I used the trees as a screen as best I
could ; and when the dip was over, they again
assisted at my dressing with the greatest
interest, and were especially charmed when
I took a button-hook from my pocket and
buttoned my boots with it. At present I
2i 4 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
have a little crowd of boys round about me
watching my writing with the greatest eager-
ness and interest !
Louis has had so many gifts brought to him
of pigs, fowls, fish, fruit, and vegetables, that
he has told the chief that in return he wishes
to give a village feast. The chief was much
pleased with the idea, and will make all the
arrangements for us. It is to consist of four
large hogs roasted whole, five bags of flour,
and all the tobacco we have left of the quantity
that we brought to give away as presents.
Louis explained that he meant to give these
things just as we were leaving ; that he would
make his speech, and then walk off to the
Casco and sail away ; but the chief said that
would never do, and would, in fact, be im-
possible. The people would never consent
to take these things without giving some-
thing in return, and if we insisted, they would
even prevent us by kindly force from going
away till they had had time to collect their
gifts. And yet many people say that they
only give that they may get more in return !
Certainly our experience has been quite the
reverse of that.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 215
We have had very heavy and sudden showers
of rain and a good deal of thunder every night
since Tuesday, so there has been no more
sitting on the grass by moonlight ; but the
days have been fine and delightfully fresh.
The people here are a most contented and
happy set, rejoicing heartily in their magnifi-
cent climate. There used to be a drinking-
place in the village, but the chief got it put
down, and we never hear of any drinking at
all among them. They are very fond of their
children, and exceedingly kind to them, but
the little things are not spoiled; on the con-
trary they are carefully taught to be quiet and
well-behaved. It is quite a picture to see
our gigantic host with a very small grandchild
perched on his knee or sitting between his feet,
and both looking perfectly happy. By the way,
when I said that Ori and his family occupied
one room in this house, I ought to have ex-
plained that they had really withdrawn to a
1 birdcage ' house on the other side of the
street, only one or two of them sleeping over
here.
216 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Monday r , November 19.
~\ 7ESTERDAY was my first Sunday en-
1 tirely spent on shore at Tautira, so I
must give you some account of it. The people
are certainly a most church-going set. They
begin at 7 A.M., when the service lasts about
three-quarters of an hour ; it was rather early
for me, so I cannot tell you anything about it.
The next service is at ten o'clock, and to this
I went with the chiefs sister ; it lasted about
an hour, and was much like our own at home,
with a good many hy mends?* short prayers,
and a short sermon. The inevitable babies,
by the way, behaved very well. After service
all the people adjourned to the public hall,
which is a very large ' birdcage ' house, with
a dais or platform at one end ; and at the
further end of this platform there is a long
table and a bench on which the chief and the
councillors sit, as many as are present. The
rest of the people sit on the floor, either on
the dais or the lower part, as they prefer ;
children are admitted, and even dogs, though
the latter are never allowed to go into the
church. When all are seated the official
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 217
newspaper is read aloud for the public benefit,
and the Government announcements and ordi-
nances are considered and discussed. It is a
veritable ' Parliament House ' on a small scale,
where any one may give an opinion, ask for
advice, or make any matter publicly known ;
and here yesterday the chief announced that
Louis intended to give a feast to the in-
habitants of the village to show his gratitude
for the kindness with which we had been
welcomed and always treated. The notice
was received, I am glad to say, with evident
satisfaction.
At 3 P.M. I returned to church with ' Mrs.
Ori.' A nice-looking young deacon conducted
the first part of the service and preached a
short sermon, standing the while at the Com-
munion Table ; he then retired to the body
of the church, the native minister went into
the precentor's box, and there followed a long
discussion, in which a good many of the men
took part, and all seemed closely interested.
The minister appeared to reserve the right of
reply, and occasionally he called upon different
people to give their views. I would have
given the world to be able to understand it
2i8 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
all. I have been told that they make great
use of ridicule here, and I observed that even
in church the man who could turn the laugh
against his opponent seemed to gain the
day; but Princess Moe comes to-morrow, and
through her I hope to find out more about it.
... It appears that the people usually collect
once more, at 8 P.M., in 'Parliament House,'
this time to sing hymene's ; but for some reason
which I do not know, this was yesterday
omitted, so Ori and his wife sang hymene's
to us, lying on the floor of our ' salon/ They
know a great many by heart, and sing them
very prettily ; there is a curious quality about
their voices, difficult to describe. They still
use the word mitonaree to mean church mem-
bership ; they said, for instance, that I was
mitonaree, and they were both mitonaree, but
the others were not mitonaree. . . .
We were amused to find that when the chief
announced Louis's feast in the ' Parliament
House,' he called him 'the rich man.' It
turns out to be fortunate that we had ordered
four hogs, for we now learn that the village is
divided into four sets, or classes, of people ;
and according to native etiquette, the gifts
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 219
must be divided into four portions, and sepa-
rately presented to each. The first set consists
of the Protestant minister and his regular con-
gregation, or church members ; the second, of
the chief, the councillors, and the inhabitants
generally; the third, of the schoolmaster and
school-children ; and the fourth, of Pere Bruno
and the Roman Catholics, who are very few
in number. It seems an extraordinary system,
as many of the people belong to more than
one class ; for instance, Ori, our host, is both
a church deacon and a councillor.
Thursday ', November 23.
" I ^HE Princess Moe arrived on Tuesday.
L. I wanted to give up my room to her,
but Ori would not hear of that, and insisted
on turning out of the one room he had hitherto
kept for their own use ; so she is practically
living in our house, and we see a great deal
of her and like her very much. She has
taught us several new plaits for hat-making,
and Fanny and she have ' exchanged names '
in the native fashion, which is looked on here
as a real bond of relationship. She has given
220 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Fanny her mother's name, Terii- Tauma- Terai,
part of which word means 'heaven,' I believe,
and part is connected with some land in this
neighbourhood, and gives Fanny the right to
claim it if she has a mind to. In return
Fanny gave Moe her own mother's name,
which is Hester. Louis and Ori have also
4 made brothers ' and exchanged names ; the
name ' Louis ' is Rui in the native pronuncia-
tion, so that Ori only alters his name very
slightly. He has given Louis his own Chris-
tian name of Teriitera. In making brothers,
they have to eat together, but it is not nearly
so formal a ceremony here as at Atuona, when
we were adopted by the chief, and the feast
was only and solely for us and our new family.
The princess has also given Lloyd and me
complimentary names, but I am not sure of
them yet, and will tell you them later.
Yesterday our 'feast' went off splendidly.
Louis's four hogs were roasted whole and
wrapped in pieces of matting made of the green
leaflets of the cocoa-nut, beautifully braided
together. They were laid out in front of the
steps up to our verandah, along with four large
tin boxes of ship's biscuits, which we decided
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 221
to give instead of flour, as the natives are so
particularly fond of them. Four o'clock had
been fixed as the hour of distribution, but long
before that time people began to arrive, all
very gaily dressed, and carrying their return
gifts with them generally slung upon poles :
live pigs and live hens were tied by their feet
in this way, and protested loudly against such
upside-down treatment. It was a pretty sight
from first to last, but the prettiest part of it
all was the appearance of the school-children,
who marched two and two with the school-
master at their head. The children had been
to the woods to gather bananas and other fruit,
and they also carried them slung from poles
balanced on their shoulders like their elders,
some of them staggering under the weight ;
while the schoolmaster brought a basket full
of the beautiful rose-apples. 88 Each set, or
party, piled their gifts in a separate heap
on the lawn in front of our house, and the
people and children sat down in groups upon
the grass ; but when all were gathered to-
gether we discovered to our consternation that
there wereyfc^ heaps of presents instead of the
four we had been told to expect. It turned
222 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
out that a very small body of Mormons I
think six in number whom the chief had
never expected to take separate action, had
nevertheless done so, and brought quite a
large heap of gifts as their own contribution.
You can imagine our perplexity and embarrass-
ment, as there were only four hogs, and it was
impossible to make a proper division and
presentation to each party as native custom
demanded. However, they were very con-
siderate ; it was arranged after some discussion
that there should only be a general presenta-
tion, and they should be left to divide the
things amongst themselves as best they could.
So, as soon as this had been settled, Louis,
Fanny, and I went to the top of the verandah
steps, and he made a speech to them in French,
thanking them all in the name of each of his
party for the great kindness and hospitality
they had shown us, and begging them to
accept our small gifts as a token of our
gratitude and affection. He mentioned the
many different countries that we had been
in, and said that of all of them, he liked Tau-
tira best ; and that often when we would be
sitting over the fire in the midst of the frost
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 223
and snow of our own land, we would re-
member with longing their lovely climate.
Then the chief translated it to the people,
and an elderly gentleman rose and accepted
the gifts in their name with many warm
thanks, saying how much they had all been
pleased to have us amongst them, and that the
longer we stayed the better they would like it.
After this began the presentation of their
return gifts to us. There was a separate
speech made over each heap, describing what
it contained, and begging our acceptance of
it ; and at the end of the speech, the spokes-
man walked forward and presented a sample
of the gifts and shook hands with us all, and
we exchanged iao-ranos* (This is the third, but
I believe the correct way, to spell it. You see
I live and learn !) The wag of the speakers
was the leader of the Mormons, and his speech
was most amusing. He described the hens as
being descendants of the ' cock that frightened
Peter,' and he brought us two eggs and told
us to take them home and ' make them into
chickens,' and they would always sing us a
song that would remind us of Tautira. He
* See note 47.
224 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
was evidently a very popular orator, as he was
asked to speak for some of the other parties
also ; so the Mormons, though few, were quite
to the front of the proceedings. One of them
had brought a basket of eggs, which are not
over plentiful here, and another a very in-
teresting fish-hook in the old style, made of
pearl shell. 89 Louis returned thanks to them
all at the end, and so it concluded ; but how
I wish you could have seen it, for it was really
a pretty sight, and I cannot do justice to it.
We found ourselves, when all was over, the
proud possessors of such quantities of food,
that we scarcely know what to do with it.
We have ten little pigs, twenty-three fowls,
and countless cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread-fruits,
bundles of taro, and pineapples, not to speak
of silk -cotton pillows. Ori and the chief's
retainers had to gather all together and stow
them away for us. They tied the bananas up
to the nearest trees, three of which are now
heavy-laden with the bunches ; the cocoa-nuts
are piled in heaps at the foot, so as to be
shaded from the sun. Then they took the
bamboos on which the gifts had been carried,
and very cleverly made a kind of double pen,
ROBERT I.OUIS STEVEN'SON", AGED 4
From a crayon drawing
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 225
into one end of which the pigs were put, and
into the other the chickens ; and now we are
left to eat through the larder at our leisure.
Fortunately the live-stock feed on cocoa-nuts
and bananas, so they are well provided for,
and that will help us through.
Louis is very tired to-day with yesterday's
excitement, and hopes he will not have such
another experience for many a long day ; he
enjoyed it heartily, but it fairly wore him out.
Ori tells us that he managed the division of
the gifts all right. A whole hog was given
to the Mormons, but they very equitably
returned one-half of it, and then the church
members made common cause with the general
inhabitants, and had a hog and a half between
them. This solved the difficulty, and all seem
to have been well satisfied, which is the great
point. Old Pere Bruno told us that he had
enough to serve him for three days at least,
and that all the people had got more than they
expected. We were thankful to hear this, as
it did not look very much amongst so many,
and yet it cost about seventeen pounds.
226 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
November 28.
HERE we are still, and there is always
no word of the Casco. We are
beginning to get a little anxious about her,
and our provisions are running low ; we have
had no butter for some days, and to-day we
had no coffee for breakfast, and the wine is
very nearly finished, so I do hope the yacht
will come very soon.
Last Saturday, Louis and Fanny and Ori
all went to Paupera to visit Tati, the chief
of that district ; he is a Salmon, a brother of
Mrs. Darsie's, and not only of high rank, but
very well-informed about native customs and
literature. Of course, therefore, Louis was
very anxious to see him ; but it was a drive of
five hours, and we were frightened to let him
undertake anything so fatiguing. However,
I am thankful to say that he came back on
Monday, very tired certainly, but not really
the worse of the expedition. They were
most kindly received, and Lou got a great
deal of information of all kinds ; the only
thing that he objected to was that they gave
him European food instead of native. When
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 227
Tati heard that he was so fond of fei (the
wild banana), he said that Louis would be
sure to return to Tahiti, as it was a proof
that the island had cast a spell on him.'
On Tuesday Moe gave us a grand feast
in this house ; several men cooked it, and a
man and woman waited. Before dinner Moe
brought wreaths for the whole party to wear,
made of the leaves of a plant which turns
bright yellow as it withers ; I only wish you
could have seen us with them on ! We were
like a party of Bacchantes, and between you
and me, I will confess that I felt more than
a little ridiculous in mine. Ori looked better
than any one else : with his fine grave face
he reminded me of one of the Roman em-
perors. Here is our bill of fare : ist course,
an omelette ; 2nd, crayfish ; 3rd, fried chicken ;
4th, a native curry of chicken, seasoned with
saffron, red peppers, and cocoa-nut; 5th, stewed
chicken ; 6th, two roast pigs and one roasted
fowl. These last were put on the table, and
then at once removed, cut up, and handed
round. We had cocoa-juice served in the nut
to drink, and after dinner tea was served with
cocoa-nut milk. Everything was delicious,
228 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
especially the curry, which was totally different
from any I had ever tasted, not at all hot, and
particularly well-flavoured. In the evening
we played High, Low, and Jack, with the
princess, and enjoyed ourselves very much.
She is a great deal with us, and always so
bright and pleasant and fond of a joke ; our
presentation pillows lie about on the floor, and
when she or other visitors are here, they come
in very usefully. Last night, for instance, we
taught the princess vingt-et-un, and we all sat
or lay on the floor while we played, an ad-
miring crowd gazing in at us from door and
window all the time.
I am glad to say that Louis keeps really
wonderfully well, and this place suits him
better than any we have ever tried. For
that, as well as many other reasons, we shall
be very sorry to leave, but we weary terribly
for those longed-for letters !
December 2.
A FTER watching for the yacht all day and
JL~\ every day, almost as eagerly as ship-
wrecked mariners, a letter at last came from
the captain to say that he found the other mast
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 229
was rotten also, and must be patched up before
we could venture to start for Honolulu. Here
was a business, and once more it was a question
what we were to do. We felt that we had
already ' sorned ' far too long on Ori's kind-
ness, and our food, that is, the European part
of it, was done ; so surely we ought to return
at once to Papeete. On the other hand we
had not nearly enough money to pay up here
and cover our journey to Papeete ; the captain
keeps the 'bank' on the yacht, and of course
that was out of reach. Again, we had no
means of conveying all our possessions thither,
and this place suits Louis so much better than
Papeete that it seemed almost providential
that he should be kept here, even against his
will. Louis and Fanny both got quite upset
and tearful over the discussion which followed
in solemn conclave with the chief, Ori, and
Pere Bruno ; and finally, after much talk, Ori
made a solemn oration to Louis, which was
translated to him by the chief, and was to this
effect : ' You are my brother, and all that I
have is yours. I know that your food is done,
but I can give you fish and fei as much as you
like. This place suits you, and it makes us
230 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
happy to have you, stay here till the Casco
comes, be happy, et ne pleurez plus \ '
Louis could not resist this kindness, so here
we are, and here we remain ; and more than
that, Ori went off to Papeete yesterday in his
big canoe, and is to return to-morrow with
fresh stores for us from the Casco.
Tautira, Tahiti,
Dec. 4, 1888.
THE wind continues very high, so that
Ori was prevented from getting back
yesterday, and we are a little anxious about
him. We are now almost entirely reduced to
native foods, and we are learning how good
they are and growing really fond of them.
The/0/J00& made of taro and eaten with cocoa-
nut cream is our favourite, I think ; it is like a
delightful cream ' shape,' or sort of blancmange,
but more substantial and satisfying. Lloyd de-
clares it reminds him of cold porridge, but as
that is a dish I do not appreciate, I rather
resent the comparison. We certainly feel, how-
ever, that it is as nourishing and sustaining as
porridge so much I will allow.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 231
I do not believe I told you that Princess
Moe, when she arrived, brought with her five
I can scarcely call them servants, let us say
retainers. One is the proprietor of her very
nice carriage and also the driver of it, and is
accompanied by his wife and child. There
are also two girls who attend on the princess.
They are all of rank and are landed pro-
prietors in Papeete, and have servants to wait
on them. The princess is on excellent terms
with them, but at a certain distance, reminding
me strongly of Cluny and his retainers : there
is just the same intimate, yet stately, relative
position. The gentleman whom we call the
' Charioteer,' for want of another name (his
own is so painfully long and syllabic that it is
impossible to remember), was invited to dine
with us at Moe's feast, and he often joins our
salon in the evening ; his wife occasionally
comes with him, but never either of the girls.
We suppose they are either of rather lower
rank, or their age or employment makes it
etiquette not to appear.
On Sunday afternoon the ' Charioteer ' con-
ducted the services in church, and there was an
extra long discussion afterwards, when several
2 3 2 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
evidently amusing remarks were made and
much applauded. In the evening I asked Moe
many questions about it all ; it appears that on
these occasions all the three sermons they have
heard in the day are discussed and criticised,
and the minister asks questions to see if they
have listened and understood the meaning. It
seems to me an excellent plan for keeping their
attention and interest, and I should like to see
it introduced into some country places at home.
I asked also what the jokes had been. She told
me that one of the sermons was about Nebu-
chadnezzar, and apparently his being made to
eat grass like the beasts, as a punishment for
pride, had provoked most of the laughter.
Louis here broke in rather flippantly, and
asked the princess, ' Where was Moses when
the candle went out ? ' And then our deacon
put a question to us that was curious and in-
structive. He wanted to know 'why Moses
was not killed along with the firstborn of the
Egyptians.' This would never occur as a
difficulty to our minds, but according to their
customs of adoption, Moses really was the son
of Pharaoh's daughter, and therefore himself
the firstborn of an Egyptian ! He put several
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 233
other questions, which we managed to answer
with some credit ; and then he asked what was
the reason of the ' shaved heads ' of the Roman
Catholic priests, and started Louis on the
ancient history of the tonsure till the ' Chario-
teer' announced that he was 'a very learned
man.' After that, two of the best singers
of the church came and sang hymends to us
really beautifully, so we had a very Sabba-
tical evening. As usual, there was a large
and admiring audience at doors and windows.
Fanny announces there is one role in
Tahitian life that she will have nothing to
do with, and that is the grandmother's. All
the burden of the babies falls upon them,
in addition to much else, while the young
mothers ' laze ' about and enjoy themselves.
Mrs. Ori, for instance, has two grandchildren^
one a little girl of two years and the other a
baby of some two months, and she is never
to be seen without one of them or both. We
always call the little girl G , because there
is something in her serene dignity and the way
she folds her hands, that reminds us all of our
own dear G at home. The little one
knows her name quite well now, and has got
234 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
over the terrible dread of white faces which all
the very young native children feel, just as our
own at home are afraid of ' the b'acky man,' as
Louis used to say. Children are very happy
here, that is certain, and their parents are
devoted to them, though the habit of adoption
is hard to comprehend. Princess Moe has had
five children, but her four daughters were all
adopted by others, and left her when they
were about a year old ; the old Queen Pomare
took one, and another was taken by Mrs.
Darsie. Moe only kept her one son to herself,
and he died at five years old, which was a
terrible grief to her ; had he lived, he would
now have been the next heir to the throne.
The chief and his family are all away just
now ; they have gone to a place in the moun-
tains where they have land, to superintend
its measurement for registration. They are
living in a house made entirely of leaves of
the cocoa-palm. Moe, I believe, ought to have
gone with them last week, but would not leave
us ; however, on Monday she could put off no
longer, and was obliged to go to see after the
measurements of her own land. Her retainers
have gone with her, and we feel very quiet
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 235
and unoccupied. The people of this district
all belong to the Teva tribe, and hold their
heads very high, thinking themselves much
better than the Pomares, though the latter
have been astute enough to have themselves
made kings. Quite recently the present Po-
mare tried to prove himself a Teva in one
of the disputes about land, but failed alto-
gether, when one of the Tevas said, ' Let
him content himself with being a Pomare,
for he can never be a Teva \ ' All this was
recounted by Tati Salmon, the chief of the
Tevas. Doesn't it remind you of our own
Highland clans?
December 5.
r I ^HE high wind still continues, and there
JL is no saying when Ori may get back.
We only hope he is safe at Papeete, where
there are said to be six boats from Tautira
and six from Taravao, all waiting at Point
Venus for a change of wind, and unable to
get home till it comes. We are more than
vexed that Ori should go through all this on
our account ; every one made sure of a change
in the weather on Monday, with the new
moon ; but we were disappointed in our hopes.
236 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Meantime we are all perforce teetotallers,
having nothing left of a spirituous character
save a bottle of very new rum that Ori gave
us ; the taste of which, to the unaccustomed
palate, is so very unpleasant, that nothing
short of the direst necessity will induce us to
touch it.
I think what we suffer most from, however,
is the want of books. I have only one with
me, and Lloyd has none at all, so he has
shared mine, and I am sure has read it two
or three times entirely through. I said to
him one day that I thought he could pass an
examination in it now, and he replied, ' Yes,
if I just crammed up a few dates and some
of the pieces of poetry, I could go in for a first
class with honours.' It is the Life of Sir
Henry Lawrence, and very interesting, but I
have no doubt you have read it.
December 8.
ORI came back in safety on Thursday
evening, bringing our stores, so we
are relieved about him, and no longer feel like
shipwrecked mariners. He was greatly de-
lighted with his visit to the Casco ; he had
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 237
lived on board from Saturday till Monday,
and declared that it was 'just like having a
father at Papeete.' He dined with the captain,
and ' there was a separate bottle of wine put
down for each ; the food was so good, and
there were so many things, that he had to eat
a great deal.' His four young men dined
with the sailors. The captain offered him a
bed in the cabin, but he thought it was too
hot, so he elected to sleep on deck, where the
sailors brought him boat cushions ; but the
captain scolded them, and sent them down for
proper pillows. This was his own account,
which Moe translated for us. I told her to
ask him how he liked the 'duff,' which we
always have, in orthodox sea fashion, on
Sundays ; he replied that he liked it so much
that he told the cook just to leave it on the
table so that he might eat some more in the
morning! To show that his appetite was
appreciated on board, I may mention that
the captain tells us in his letter that after the
Colonel (as Louis often calls Ori) had eaten
his first dinner on board, Ah Fou said, ' Him
must leave dam quick, or else bust um bank ! '
meaning that the Casco stores would be
238 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
exhausted. The inhabitants of this peninsula
pride themselves on their good appetites, and
they certainly have reason.
The chief, with his family and Moe,
returned from the hills on Wednesday, but
Moe found a letter from the king waiting her
arrival (addressed ' To the great Princess at
Tautira, P. V.' these letters standing for
Pomare $th\ which desired her to go at once
to Papeete, so she and all her people left
yesterday morning. She may perhaps return
in the Casco when it comes for us, along with
her daughter, Mrs. Norman Brander. We hear
that the captain hopes to be ready to start by
the beginning of the week. The complimen-
tary name, by the way, that was given to me
by Moe is Teiriha, and the one for Lloyd is
Aromai-terai ' ; they both mean 'members of
the royal family.'
Monday, December 10.
'"T^HIS letter is at the best but a bundle of
JL fragments, but as there is a chance to
send it off for the mail, I shall let it go. I
have come to an end of my envelopes and
very nearly of my paper ; it is high time for
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 239
the Casco to come and replenish me. How-
ever I sincerely hope this is the last letter I
shall write to you from Tahiti, and I trust that
before I send off another I shall have got my
longed-for news of you. . . .
CONCLUSION
Tautira, Tahiti,
Dec. 1 6, 1888.
HERE we are, still hanging on waiting
for the Casco : since we have had no
more letters from the captain, we made sure
that he would come this week. We got a
begowk on Friday evening, for we saw a
schooner come pretty close in, and felt sure
it was the Casco ; we supposed that the cap-
tain was afraid to venture through the reef so
late at night, and that he would lie off, and
come in on Saturday morning. But when
morning came there was no sign of him, so it
cannot have been the Casco after all.
We have had a quiet week, with only two
events to mark it. On Monday afternoon a
lot of boys and girls adorned with wreaths,
and singing, passed the house in a little com-
pany. On inquiry, it appeared that they had
240
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 241
played truant from school, and the school-
master had sent them to the ' Council ' for
punishment. Ori took them to the Fari-
hau, or Parliament-house, and lectured them
severely ; and then sentenced them to weed
the grass, the ringleader for ten days, some of
the others for five, and the little ones for three.
Lou declares that the wreaths and songs were
to keep their spirits up, on the ' highwaymen
marching to Tyburn ' principle !
The next event was the arrival of two
French gentlemen to examine the school, and
with them, acting as interpreter, came our
good friend from Fakarava, M. Donat! We
were so happy to meet again, though un-
fortunately he could only spare us a very few
minutes. We all attended the examination ;
but I am sorry to say that the Tautira chil-
dren do not shine at lessons ! They seem to
take no interest in them at all ; though the
examiners were most kind and patient, they
could make but little out of them. Strangely
enough, arithmetic was the one thing that they
did seem to know something about, which is
very unlike our country children at home. It
is only fair, however, to remember that no one
Q
242 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
reads here, and I do not think any one but
Pere Bruno has any books, except the Bible,
so the children can't see much use or good in
learning.
This has been another Communion Sunday
here. It should have been on the first Sunday
of the month, but the 'Missionary' is ill, and
they could get no one to take his place until
to-day. I little thought that I should have
another opportunity of 'keeping the feast'
with my good friends, but so it has been, and
much shaking of hands we had when all was
over. How often I shall remember it, when
I am far away !
Fanny has turned this house into a veritable
picture-gallery. First she did a silhouette of
Ori by taking the shadow of his head on the
wall, with the help of a lamp, drawing the
outline, and then filling it in with Indian ink.
This was for us to carry away with us ; but it
turned out so good that Ori demanded to have
all our likenesses in return, and she has been
hard at work to satisfy him, Lou doing the
outline of her own head for her. All are
really good, but I think mine is the greatest
success of the lot, and I wished my dear
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 243
could have seen it. He was never
quite satisfied with what he called ' ordinary '
photographs of me ! Louis has printed under
them all our names, both English and native.
On his own he has put,
* Teriitera,
' Robert Louis Stevenson,
'and party, came ashore from yacht
Casco, November 1888 ; and were
two months the guests of Ori, to
whom, having little else, they grate-
fully bequeathed their shadows in
memoriam.'
Under Fanny's various names is added,
' Made these shadows for the house of Ori the
tall, December 1888.'
Friday, Dec. 21,
9.30 A.M.
HURRAH ! a sail in sight ; we trust it is
the Casco, and are thankful, for last
night was stormy, and we were very anxious
about her. We hear that Moe and her daughter
are on board. ... It was not the Casco after all !
but in the evening a white speck appeared on the
horizon, which was pronounced to be a pahi,
244 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
and on Saturday morning it was still there,
and coming nearer, till about n A.M. the Casco
cast anchor within the reef, and we were no
longer shipwrecked mariners. Moe had not
come after all, business detained her, but she
sent many messages to us all.
On board the ' Casco] at sea,
Dec. 27, 1888.
AS soon as the Casco arrived, Lloyd, Valen-
tine, and I came on board, so as to give
the Ori family more use of their house; but Louis
and Fanny stayed on shore till the last moment.
The captain required a free day to tighten
the rigging, so it was arranged that we should
make a start on Tuesday, Christmas Day. On
Sunday we all dined with Ori, as he was most
anxious to entertain the captain in return for
his hospitality at Papeete. We had a pair of
fowls stuffed and cooked by Fanny, two roast
pigs, and a pudding, also made by Fanny, and
everything was very good indeed. Ori, I may
remark, has the greatest respect for Fanny's
cooking powers, and just quietly insisted that
she should prepare the things for his feast !
We of course provided the fruit, etc., for the
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 245
pudding, as well as bread and champagne.
On Monday Ori, his wife, and the two adopted
sons, Paerai and Terii, lunched on board with
us, on salt beef, salt pork (salt things are a
great treat to them), and an immense plum-
pudding. We were also very busy packing
and transporting our goods to the Casco.
On Tuesday morning I went ashore about
9 A.M., and found everybody in a most de-
pressed condition ; poor Madame Ori, weep-
ing in a bedroom, and Ori himself with tears
filling his eyes, and just ready to overflow.
Lloyd and I went to church with Ori and the
chief's niece, and found quite a Sunday con-
gregation, indeed they go to church just as
on a Sunday, and think it wrong to do any
work on Christmas Day. After church a
number of the congregation came to say good-
bye, sitting round the room and on the
verandah, as sad and solemn as if they were
at a funeral. We only managed to slip out for
a few minutes to snatch a farewell visit to Pere
Bruno and the chief. At 11.30 the captain
came with the boat to take us off, our final
adieus had to be said, and we tore ourselves
sorrowfully away from the kind friends and
246 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
the lovely place where we had spent two
happy months. Heavy rain came on after we
got on board ; but in spite of that, Ori and
many of the people, both young and old,
gathered under the trees, at the place whence
they could watch our departure. It was about
2.30 before all was ready and the wind favour-
able; we then weighed anchor, and as we
passed out through the reef the captain fired
thirteen shots from his rifle and the flag was
thrice dipped in a farewell salute. Seven
shots were fired from the shore in answer, and
we replied with another three : while we all
stood on the deck frantically waving our hand-
kerchiefs to the friends whom we could still
see watching us. We could not tear ourselves
away till they were quite out of sight. The
rain was over by this time, and the sun shone
on our departure ; but it was a very sad
Christmas Day, and we do not wish to make
so long a stay at any other place, it makes
the parting too trying. . . .
We did our best to cheer up at dinner, and
had a game at whist in the evening, but it was
half-hearted work.
I must tell you, while I think of it, a bon mot
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 247
of Ori's. Louis was telling him about his
father and the ' Northern Lights ' ; when Ori,
with a wave of his hand towards the portraits,
immediately said, ' He made lights, and she
(Fanny) makes shadows.' Louis knows a good
deal of Tahitian now, and can make himself
understood with only the occasional aid of
diagrams ; and he and Ori have had long
conversations. Ori always wanted to know
' all about ' Lou, and was very anxious, to be
sure, that he correctly understood what was
said. One evening he asked Louis how much
he made by his books, and when he was told
what Kidnapped brought in the first year, he
could not believe that there was not some
mistake, and though it was 10 P.M., went off
to bring the chief as interpreter, and make
sure. As they scarcely ever read themselves,
it must be strange, and almost incredible to
them, that book-making should be a paying
occupation! Pere Bruno, by the way, told
Louis two things that I think are worthy of
being preserved. On the Saturday before we
left, it chanced that one or two of our friends
from Papeete arrived in Tautira on a pleasure
trip. Some of the natives promptly told Pere
248 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Bruno that the French Government had sent
these gentlemen to tell ' the rich man ' (Louis),
that he must leave on the Sunday. He replied
that he would on no account sail on Sunday,
and that he would not leave till it suited his
own convenience. He was then told that if he
did not leave on Sunday he must pay a heavy
fine for every day that he remained on the
island. To this the ' rich man ' replied that a
fine was nothing to him, and he did not care a
pin for it, and the story-tellers wound up with,
' Voila un homme comme il faut ! ' Pere
Bruno, even, was perplexed by so circum-
stantial an account, and asked if there were
any foundation for it, which of course there
was not.
The other thing is that this same Pere Bruno
is going to take Louis as the text of a sermon !
I think this should delight Cummy's heart
when she hears of it, and I wonder how often
Lou is to appear in the pulpit, either in person
or through his books. This time he is to be
o
held up to the people of Tautira because he
was so cheerful and uncomplaining during all
his stay there, ' though he had to put up with
many things that must have been hardships
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 249
to him ' ; and then his style of dress is to be
held up as an example : ' he only wore what
was useful and necessary, and never went in
for anything ornamental or extravagant ' ! !
Louis is delighted that he has at last found
someone who appreciates his taste in dress,
and wishes he could have a copy of the sermon
to send to some of his scoffing friends. I may
here privately mention that / think his dress
should rather have been held up as a beacon
to warn than an example to imitate, seeing
that he seldom wore anything but a pyjama
suit intended only for sleeping in, very badly
shaped, and dreadfully unbecoming !
Well, we spent nine weeks in all at Tautira,
and so far as Lou's health is concerned, the
long detention has proved a blessing. The
change in him is something marvellous ; all the
first week he was in bed with constant cough,
high fever, and all the worst symptoms, and
now he is better than I have known him since
1879, is able for a good long walk, and has been
for some time bathing in the sea almost every
day. His appetite, too, has been splendid
worthy of a Teva ; he has been able to write a
good deal and has nearly finished The Master,
250 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
and we think and hope that he is a little fatter
even than when he was in the Marquesas,
which was the highest level he had hitherto
reached. All this makes us start on our journey
northward and in the long-run homeward
in a very thankful frame of mind.
December 30.
WE are having delightful weather and are
fully enjoying our ' summer cruise in
the South Seas,' though it has lingered on
into midwinter. No one has been sick, and
we have fallen back into our former routine,
even to the Decline and Fall. We do not
make very rapid progress, it is true, but I for
one prefer a long and pleasant voyage to a
short stormy one. On Thursday we passed
two of the Paumotus group, Makatea and
Tikahau, but there was so little wind that
it was impossible to get through the reef and
make a landing, as we would have liked to do.
On Friday we sighted the mail-steamer en
route to Papeete, and tried to get near enough
to speak her; however, after coming towards
us for a while she seemed to change her mind,
and returned to her course. The heat is
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 251
greater than we have had yet, while at sea.
In the heat of the day the wood of the deck
almost burns our hands and feet, and the brass
would quite do so, if we did not avoid it. We
do not light the lamp in the cabin in the even-
ing now, because it overheats it so much ; so
we spend the evening on deck, and though
there is no moonlight at present, the stars are
so brilliant we scarcely miss it. Venus casts
a broad reflection on the water, quite like a
young moon, but I fear we have seen the last
of the Southern Cross, as just now it does not
rise till four in the morning. I have only just
discovered two facts that may amuse you.
While at Tautira I noticed three stars that
looked very like Orion's belt, but declared it
could not be him, as he had neither shoulder
nor knee, nor his dog running after him. But
soon after we started I discovered Orion all
complete, and I discovered too that the reason
I had not recognised him before was that he
was standing on his head ! The other thing
that puzzled us was a beautiful constellation
of small but very bright stars, exactly, as Louis
said, like an old-fashioned diamond brooch,
which in Tahitian bears the pretty name of
252 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
'little eyes.' This now turns out to be our
Pleiades. I suppose it is the extreme clearness
of the atmosphere that makes the individual
stars look so much larger that we none of us
recognised it.
January i, 1889.
ANOTHER lovely night after a hot
summer day. It is hard to believe
that this is New- Year's Day, and harder to
realise what this day was last year at Saranac,
when we shivered amidst the surrounding
snows. How like a dream that part of our
trip seems now !
We had a very quiet day, and the only
notable event was that we had stewed duck
for lunch, the last of our fresh meat. Louis
dined with us he generally takes his meals in
the after-cabin for the sake of greater cool-
ness, and our dinner consisted of salt beef,
salt pork, a stew of tinned mutton, vegetables,
duff, and champagne, in which you may be
sure we drank to you all at home. In the
evening, as a mild excitement, we played
' what is my thought like ' in the starlight.
I am sorry to say, however, that they promise
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 253
us a change of weather with the new
moon.
January 6.
THAT promised change came, with a
vengeance. Since Tuesday night the
weather has been very unpleasant, squalls of
wind, rain pouring as it only can in the tropics,
thunder and lightning, hail and gloom. For
two whole days we were shut up in the cabin,
and got through the time as best we could
with the help of Gibbon, hat-plaiting, and cards.
I am also reading Laurence's life, and enjoy-
ing it very much. Though we have had more
than enough wind, it has never been from quite
the right quarter, and our progress is terribly
slow. We ought to be nearing Honolulu (and
our letters !) by this time, and instead we have
not yet crossed the line ; I wonder when we
shall be in harbour once more ; and I wonder,
too, how our stores, at any rate of luxuries,
will hold out. When we left Tautira, Ori gave
us a boatload of fruit and vegetables, which
have been a great boon, but unfortunately the
rain has spoiled the bananas, and the mangos
too are on their last legs. The vegetables are
254 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
almost finished, but we still have cocoa-nut
cream for our coffee.
January 13.
' T OOK out for squalls ' is a phrase I shall
-Lrf never again make use of in the light
and easy way I have done hitherto. It has
been too much the order of the day of late, and
squalls are not the pleasantest companions. In
fact for several days we have had nothing but
alternate squalls and calms, and have made no
progress. Yesterday and to-day have been
a little better the squalls have quieted to a
boisterous but uncertain breeze and we have
at last crossed the line, though our best run
was only 130 miles in the twenty-four hours,
and we are still a long way from Honolulu.
To-day the wind has dropped again, and we
are in the Doldrums, and shall do little till we
pick up the North-east Trades. As long as
the weather is fine we do not mind, or rather
would not mind, our slow progress, were it not
that we begin to fear our stores will run short
if the voyage lasts much more than another
week. However, there is no need to anticipate
trouble.
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 255
January 20.
ON Thursday we got fairly into the Trades,
and have been flying along at a great
rate ever since, making 170 miles in the first
twenty-four hours, and 230 in the twenty-four
ending to-day. But I cannot call it ' pleasure
sailing,' as it has been a 'beam sea* all the
time, and we are tired out with the constant
holding-on and effort required to keep oneself
fairly steady. Such a knocking-about is very
fatiguing after a time, and there is no rest
night or day. The spray comes over so much
that it is almost impossible to sit in the cock-
pit ; and last night, though only a small bit of
the lee side of the cabin skylight was open, a
bucket of water poured itself straight on to
my head at 3.30 this morning, and I awoke,
screaming and soaked. I took refuge on the
floor, and presently saw the same thing exactly
happen to Lloyd. Fanny suffers a good deal
from sea-sickness, and declares that when only
she reaches Honolulu, she is going ashore and
never means to leave it again. The captain
has bad earache in both ears, so we shall not
be sorry when the voyage comes to an end,
which we hope it may do by Tuesday. And
256 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
then for six months' supply of letters and
papers !
Louis, by the way, declares I have not given
you at all a proper description of his usual
attire at Tautira and that it was far more
artistic and less conventional than I described !
Well ; I wish I could send you a sketch of
it ... this en passant, and suggested by the
fact that since Thursday we have felt it much
colder, and have had to put on more clothing.
I was rather amused to find that the ther-
mometer in the captain's cabin stood at 84,
when we thought it so cold ! but as it had
been 98 before, a drop of 14 and a high wind
were bound to be felt. One thing we have
all realised lately, and that is the loneliness of
this great ocean ; we have been four weeks out
and have only seen a single sail. It gives one
some idea of the hopelessness of expecting
help should anything go wrong, and makes
one more than ever thankful for our safety
hitherto.
Tuesday, Jan. 22.
"\ 7ESTERDAY morning at 10.30 we
JL sighted Hawaii, a lofty mountain with
white clouds wreathed about it, above which
MKS. STKVKNSON IN 1889
WEARING A WREATH CilVKN TO HKk IIY KING KAI.AK'ANA, ON LEAVING HONOLULU
From <i photograph by Mr. IV. Crooke, Edinburgh
FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS 257
its head was lifted. We were spinning
along at such a rate that the captain quite
thought we should reach Honolulu by the
evening, and we were pleasantly excited. But
alas ! when we got under the lee of the land
the wind fell ; and this morning we are be-
calmed and only a little further north than
the bay where Captain Cook was murdered.
This side of Hawaii is very bleak and treeless,
with high cliffs, and it is hard to be stopped
when we are so near port, but I am thankful
to say our food supplies have held out. That
is to say, we have still salt beef and macaroni
and tinned tomatoes, and pickles and jam ;
and we have a very little flour and coffee and
sugar. But the captain is suffering much
from earache, and both Louis and Valentine
are threatened with the same, so you may
imagine how we long to ' get in.'
Wednesday, i p.m. We are slowly drawing
nearer to Honolulu. We have now three small
islands on our right, Maui, Lanai, and that sad
tomb of the living, Molokai ; and far ahead we
can see the very striking outline of Oahu. We
hope to land in time for dinner, and are longing
for some fresh food and our letters. God grant
R
258 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
this long waited for news of you all may be
good news and happy.
Honolulu^ Friday ', 25.
AFTER all it was 3 P.M. on Thursday,
24th, before the calms allowed us to
cast anchor in the harbour of Honolulu. Our
luncheon that last day consisted of salt beef
and biscuit, for all else had given out ; so you
see we narrowly escaped ' starvation diet,' and
I must confess our dinner that night at the
hotel seemed to me the very finest banquet of
which I had ever partaken. But, oh dear me,
this place is so civilised ! And to come back
from Tautira to telephones and electric light is
at first very bewildering and unpleasant. I
grant the conveniences, but we realise that our
happy cruise in the South seas has come to an
end. Thank God, the end is a happy one, and
we are met by good news of all we love. But
it is the end, nevertheless.
NOTES
1. Pilot-birds. After long inquiry it has been found impossible
to trace this name satisfactorily, or to discover to what species of
bird it is properly applied. From what Mrs. Stevenson says,
and from the following note in her son's diary 'To the limit
of the north-east trades we carried some attendant pilot-birds,
silent, brown-suited, quakerish fellows, infinitely graceful on
the wing ; dropping at times in comfortable, sheltered hollows
of the swell ; running awhile in the snowy footmarks on the
water before they rise again in flight ' {Life of Robert Louis
Stevenson, ii. 43) it is probable that the birds referred to are
some variety of petrel, these birds being so called from their
habit of 'walking' on the water, in reference to the disciple St.
Peter. But there is no record of the name of ' pilot-bird ' being
used for any petrel. In the Encyclopedia Britannica there is
no ' pilot-bird' to be found ; it is not included in the Dictionary
of Birds, and Professor Newton (the author of that work) does
not know the name. In Ogilvie's Imperial Dictionary, edited
by Annandale, there is the following: ''Pilot-bird a kind of
bird found in the Caribbee Islands, so called because its
presence out at sea indicates to seamen their approach to these
islands ' (Crabb). This reference, however, is to a work pub-
lished in 1823, which gives no further particulars. It seems
probable that the name is one loosely used by seamen, for the
reason given by Crabb ; and possibly, but not certainly, applied
to some variety of petrel.
2. Mumu and Holaku. These two garments are the ordinary
wear of women of all classes, white and native, throughout
many of the islands of the South Seas. The mtimu is a long
chemise, reaching the ground so as to replace a petticoat, and
generally edged with a flounce ; the holaku, a loose, full
' sacque ' hanging from a yoke, with open or hanging sleeves,
259
260 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
and frequently a train. It is better known in America as a
' Mother Hubbard,' and is worn, like the mumtt, quite uncon-
fined. Together, they make up a costume peculiarly adapted to
the climate and the life, in its absence of restraint or pressure
anywhere ; while its appearance is graceful, becoming, and,
in the brilliant colours beloved of the native, eminently pic-
turesque.
3. Boatswain Birds. The boatswain, better known as the
tropic-bird, is a kind of tern or sea-swallow, and is related to
the frigate or man-o'-war birds of tropical waters. It belongs
to the Phaetonides, and the species alluded to is Phaeton
rubricauda. The plumage is white, with two long, filamentous,
red-tipped tail-feathers, from which (it is said) the sailors call it
the boatswain-bird, these feathers being supposed to resemble
a marline - spike. I have also found its shrill, whistling cry
suggested as an explanation. They also call it ' teaser,' and
some similar names, arising from its manner of attacking other
birds and forcing them to drop their food, which they seize as
it falls before it reaches the water. The two long tail-feathers
were a favourite native decoration throughout the South Sea
Islands, and are frequently alluded to. Melville says, 'The
splendid long tail-feathers of the tropical-bird . . . were dis-
posed in an immense, upright semicircle upon his head, their
lower extremities being fixed in a crescent of guinea-beads which
spanned the forehead' (Residence in the Marquesas, p. 84).
In Ratzel's History of Mankind (i. 197) it is stated that 'at
one time no article of commerce was in such demand in the
Society Islands. The feathers were stuck on to banana leaves,
bound on the forehead. ... In the Marquesas, and Easter
Island also, feather diadems were worn. 3 Specimens from the
Austral Islands are in the Edinburgh Museum of Science and
Art.
4. Nuka-hiva and the Marquesas. These islands have been
so repeatedly 'discovered' and named, that in self-defence, one
would think, they have reverted to their native appellations.
The South - Eastern cluster (which includes Hiva - oa or
Dominica) was discovered in 1595 by Mendano, who gave each
island a Catholic and Spanish baptism, and called the group
the Marquesas, in honour of the Marquis Mendoza, viceroy of
NOTES 261
Peru ; but it was not till 1792 that the North - Western division,
including Nuka-hiva, was surveyed by Hergest in the Dccdalus,
on his way from Falkland Islands to Hawaii. He also named
the islands he visited, as did Marchand, very soon after ; and
this North -Western division has been variously known as
Hergest's, Ingram's, and the Washington Group, though it is
now properly incorporated with the Marquesas. Nuka-hiva at
one time acquired some notoriety as the place where Captain
Porter refitted his privateer during the American war, and in
his book there are interesting, though not very reliable, accounts
of the island as he found it.
The history of the group has been of late years 'much
complicated by the coming and going of the French. At least
twice they have seized the Archipelago, at least once deserted
it ; and in the meantime the natives pursued, almost without
interruption, their desultory, cannibal wars ' (R. L. S., In the
South Seas, p. 72). Melville's Residence in the Marquesas begins
with the seizure of the islands by the French, under Du Petit-
Thouars, in 1842 ; and they 'still retain a nominal protectorate
over the islands, with a resident and a small garrison at
Nuka-hiva. Since 1861, however, French colonisation has
been virtually abandoned ' (Encyclopedia Britannica^ xv. 564).
Ellis describes them as mountainous and fertile, but adds that
' the land capable of cultivation ... is comparatively small, as
they are not protected, like most others in the Pacific, by coral
reefs. The sea extends to the base of the mountains, and thus
prevents the formation and preservation of that low border of
prolific alluvial soil so valuable to the Society Islanders. Deep,
wide, and extensive valleys abound in the islands, and are the
general places where the inhabitants abide' (Researches, iii.
313). Their cannibalism is undoubted, and according to
Krusenstern 'in times of famine men butcher their wives,
children, and aged parents. They bake and stew their flesh, and
devour it with the greatest satisfaction.' It is believed, however,
that cannibalism was generally confined to victims slain or
taken captive in war, to those offered as special sacrifices to
the gods, or at least to such as belonged to other tribes or
valleys ; but it must be confessed that this is difficult to prove.
Even in Ellis's time, the population of the islands was
262 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
diminishing, and both the physical and moral character of the
people was said to have deteriorated ; though he adds that,
physically considered, the Marquesans are among the most
perfect of the human species. His own experience of them was
limited to such as lived in other islands. These he found gay,
thoughtless, vivacious, and somewhat impatient of confinement
or teaching, but with none of the ferocity he expected ; while
at the same time he bears witness to the universal report of
their debased morals, extreme licentiousness, and racial pro-
pensity to theft, quarrelsomeness, and murder. Each valley
or tribe was for itself against its neighbour ; each chief was
autocratic, and the cannibal priesthood supreme. The French,
as has been said, for a long time did not penetrate beyond the
seaboard, and made no effort to check the inter-tribal wars ; it
was long before missionaries could settle in the land, and
longer before their teaching took the most partial effect.
Dordillon, the popular Roman Catholic bishop, did indeed do
good work amongst the natives during his life, but it is doubtful
how far his influence was permanent in effect ; and a recent
writer has said, 'One cannot but regretfully conclude that
civilisation and Christianity have done them much physical
harm and but little moral good ' (Becke, Wild Life in Southern
Seas). When to this we add, 'The efforts of missionaries,
whether Protestant or Roman Catholic, have hitherto proved of
little avail in seriously converting them to Christianity, or in
improving their moral and social condition' (Encyclopedia
Britannica, xv. 564), and that in a recent volume (Sunshine
and Surf, Hall and Osborne, published 1901) it is stated that
the population of Tai-o-hae, once a large and thriving native
town, is now under a hundred, all told ; and that Anaho, still
populous at the time of the Stevenson visit, has since been
'wiped out' by smallpox, the history of the islands, past,
present, and to come, is indicated. It is probable that in a
very few years the Marquesans as a race will be practically
extinct.
5. Tai-pi-ki-kano, ' high-water and mean! The name
of the chief of Anaho is written in later letters 'Taipi-Kikino,'
and a better and more comprehensible translation of this is
suggested by R. L. Stevenson, in his volume In the South Seas,
NOTES 263
p. 46 : ' . . . Highwater-man-of-no-account, or, Englishing
more boldly, Beggar-on-horseback. J
6. Tattooing. The system of tattooing is closely connected
with the lapu, and like it has religious and social significance.
Stevenson calls it the only thing in the Marquesas that now
indicates difference of rank : in the early records it was already
observed that the finest designs were used only for chiefs and
priests. Both in the Marquesas and the Paumotus Islands the
common people were tattooed principally about the loins in
coarse and simple lines ; while the tapu or high-chief classes
were ornamented with large, interlaced, circular markings that
covered the entire body. With the priests it was carried to
the extremest degree ; it is said that even the most tender
parts were tattooed, and that no extent of natural skin was left
anywhere visible. Certain designs on the face were specially
significant of rank and of inherited chiefdom. Women were
much less tattooed than men, save when they themselves ranked
as chiefs, when they were always exempt from the usual
limitations of their sex ; as in the case, elsewhere mentioned
and described, of Queen Vaekehu. Melville states that when
he lived in the Marquesas, now more than fifty years ago, the
young girls were but slightly tattooed on face and shoulders,
and on marrying or bearing children, were further ornamented
on the hands and feet. In fact, he looks on the tattooed hand
and foot as practically a badge of wedlock, and never saw it
upon an unmarried girl. There probably are, or were, many
such distinctions that have been lost along with the cere-
monials of other days ; for in the Marquesas, at any rate,
tattooing was so closely and constantly connected with canni-
balism, that it has now been strictly forbidden by the French
authorities. There are many islands, however, where it is still
practised, though possibly not to as great a perfection, the
Marquesas being considered pre-eminent.
The designs are carried out with what may be roughly
described as mallet and chisel. ' Some of the implements
terminated in a single fine point, and, like very delicate pencils,
were employed in giving the finishing touches, or in operating
on the more sensitive parts of the body. Others presented
several points distributed in a line, somewhat resembling the
264 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
teeth of a saw, . . . some presented their teeth disposed in
small figures, . . . and I observed a few the handles of which
were mysteriously curved, as if intended to be introduced into
the orifice of the ear ' (Melville, Residence in the Marquesas,
p. 240). The commonest form was perhaps the sharply
serrated 'hoe,' or the single shark's tooth bound to a con-
venient handle, and with these, the paddle-shaped mallet. No
doubt, however, a skilled tattooer, artist as he must have been,
adapted and invented his instruments to suit himself.
When ready to work, the colouring, already prepared from
the ashes of the candle-nut (Aleuritis trilobri), mixed with
vegetable juices, was placed close at hand in a cocoa-nut bowl ;
the puncturing instrument was constantly dipped into it and
the colouring thus carried into the skin at each blow of the
mallet. The resulting mark was dark, nearly black. There is
no mention of other tints, but saffron was sometimes rubbed
into the skin to heighten the effect, and it was usual to smear
red and black paint over the tattooing for all festivities, as it
was also customary to cut and hack the arms and legs with
sharp shells in time of mourning. In extreme old age tattooing
turns green, and seems to shrink or blend together, till the
designs carried out in youth and carefully ' touched up ' and
preserved all through life, become blurred and indistinct, and
finally the whole skin resembles a scaly, greenish hide. But
the tattooing of a Marquesan of good birth, through extremely
painful and even dangerous while being carried out, is in its
way an undoubted work of art, and has been described even
by an European as 'handsomely setting off a handsome man.'
7. Another similar tabu is mentioned in Melville's book on
the Marquesas, p. 13. In speaking of his arrival at Nuka-hiva,
he writes : ' At that time I was ignorant of the fact that by the
operation of the " taboo " the use of canoes in all parts of the
island is rigorously prohibited to the female sex, for whom it
is death even to be seen entering one when hauled on shore ;
consequently whenever a Marquesan lady voyages by water,
she puts in requisition the paddles of her own fair body.'
R. L. Stevenson says, ' Tapu encircled women on all hands.
Many things were forbidden to men ; to women we may say
that few were permitted. They must not sit on the pae-pae ;
NOTES 265
they must not go up to it by the stair ; they must not eat pork ;
they must not approach a boat ; they must not cook at a fire
which any male had kindled' (p. 49). It would be better,
perhaps, to put the statement in another form ; for women
were not so much debarred from all that was taptt, as them-
selves a class that was ' un-tapuj or ' incapable of tapu] which
is practically 'not noble,' with a strongly attached religious
signification. Only the tapu classes go to heaven, which is
the land of ancestors, or of souls, in the Marquesan legend
Hawaiiki ; for, according to their story of the Creation, their
islands were in the beginning raised by divine force from that
underworld which in varying forms is the legendary origin of
nearly all Polynesia. Thereafter, ' a woman ' gave birth to the
sea and the germs of beasts and plants, the lower order of
things ; while men and fish were ejected from the caverns in
which they were shut up, by volcanic outbursts (History of
Mankind, i. 313). The tapu or noble classes were in close
connection with the gods ; their souls, when they died, went
to heaven where the gods live, and returned thence to be
embodied in the various orders of priests. For them were the
sacrificial orgies, the great ceremonials for which, it may be
supposed, the cyclopean ' high places ' of the past were built ;
for them was cannibalism in its religious forms and as tribal
revenge. Only a woman holding a chief's rank was exempt
from the ban laid on her sex : all others were un-tapu, they
and 'their male attendants, and all singers and dancers ' (id.
p. 280). It has become, of course, in the passing of time, singu-
lary complicated ; but in the beginning tapu was no more than
the practical expression of the laws of religion, and class, and
sex, as they understood them.
8. Wild Chickens. Melville, in his book on the Marquesas,
written in 1846, says that in the valley of Tior (?, his spelling is
unreliable) 'there were a considerable number of fowls . . .
the progeny of some cocks and hens accidentally left there
by an English vessel, and which, being taboo, flew about in an
almost wild state . . . ' (p. 246). Hence, probably, the ' wild
chickens' mentioned by Mrs. Stevenson.
9. Pigs. The pigs of Polynesia are referred to in almost
every book upon the subject. They were one of the four
266 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
species of animals found in Tahiti by Cook, the others being
dogs, rats, and lizards ; but the present breed is much changed
from the original native sort, which is described as long-legged,
hairy, and singularly clean. Lady Brassey (Tahiti, p. 49)
mentions the lameness of the pigs in that island, and says that
they are frequently kept as pets. ' In Papeete it is by no
means uncommon to meet ladies walking along with their little
favourites carefully brushed and combed, with dainty blue or red
rosettes and bows on their necks and tails, and led by a long
ribbon, like the pug-dogs in some old Dutch pictures.' R. L.
Stevenson, however, describes the Marquesan pigs as more
enterprising : ' Many islanders live with their pigs as we do
with our dogs ; both come around the hearth with equal free-
dom : and the island pig is a fellow of activity . . . and sense.
He husks his own cocoa-nuts, and (I am told) rolls them into
the sun to burst ; he is the terror of the shepherd. Mrs.
Stevenson, senior, has seen one fleeing to the woods with a
lamb in his mouth . . .' (In the South Seas, p. 91).
In the legendary lore of the South Seas, which is so charm-
ingly ready to account for the origin of all things, there is a
quaint little story. It is related that when the gods first made
the world and all that dwelt therein, pigs went upright, and men,
like other beasts, on all fours. This however displeased the
birds and reptiles, who said, ' Shall we be subject to a thing
that crawls on four legs, because he be called man ?' And they
met together and made a great talking. The lizard said, ' Let
the pig and the man change with one another,' but the wagtail
(sic) said ' Not so.' . . . And the lizard crawled up a palm-tree,
and from its branches dropped right on to the pig's back, and
drove the breath from his body, so that he fell on all fours with
a humph, and behold, he has never since got back his breath
or walked on his hind feet. . . .
10. Kooamua. Robert Louis Stevenson says of him : ' Late
leader of a war upon the French, late prisoner in Tahiti, and
last eater of long-pig in Nuka-hiva. Not many years have
elapsed since he was seen striding along the beach of Anaho,
a dead man's arm across his shoulder. " So does Kooamua
to his enemies !" he roared to the passers-by, and took a bite
from the raw flesh . . . ' (In the South Seas, pp. 46, 47). Mrs.
NOTES 267
Stevenson barely does justice to this remarkable gentle-
man !
ii. Idols. These were many and varied, but may be roughly
divided into two classes. In one of these there was some
attempt to represent (artificially) a human form, as in the
example mentioned in the Letters, and the great idols set up
beside the altars of the ntaraes, or temples, in the Marquesas,
in Tahiti, and on a still huger scale in Easter Island and
elsewhere. In the other class the god was embodied in some
natural object as a tree, a stone, an animal, or even a strip of
matting. There were frequently, however, connecting-links
between these two divisions, as when idols were carved to
represent gods that were also embodied in natural forms : for
instance, Melville in his book on the Marquesas (p. 194) speaks
of ' the half of a broken war-club wrapped in ragged bits of
white tappa, and the upper part, intended to represent a human
head, embellished by a strip of scarlet cloth. . . . This funny
little image was the crack god of the island ; its name was Moa
Artua? At the same time, however, Atua Mao (as it is
correctly written), the Shark-god, was worshipped in his natural
form of the blue-shark (Squalus Glancus\ and had in his honour
both priests and maraes. It is noticeable in many cases, that
the carved idol does not always or necessarily represent the
natural form in which the god is said to be embodied, but
rather attempts a rude suggestion of the human figure. It must
be added, however, that the Polynesian has some dim notion
of a deity too great or too remote to reproduce, and that in his
mythology it is only the gods who partake of the nature of man
who are directly honoured with idols and temples. Vatea,
Father-of-the-gods, and his mother The-very-beginning, who
lives in The-mute-land, are above or beyond any tangible form
of worship.
12. Marquesan dancing. This gymnastic display is found
also in Tahiti, where ' one man would jump and stand on the
shoulders of the man in front of him, then a man would leap on
to another man's neck, and they would simulate men on horse-
back' {Sunshine and Surf, Hall and Osborne, p. 48).
In the History of Mankind (Ratzel, English translation
by Butler, i. 192, 193) are illustrations of two pairs of Mar-
268 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
quesan dancing-stilts. One pair appears to have been fastened
to the feet ; the other, of bamboo, is furnished with long
handles as a support to the dancer. Both are finely carved
with grotesque figures in high relief, and in the bamboo pair
there seem to be bands or wrappings of tapa or grass. Circlets
or bands of woven and plaited grass, or sometimes of leaves,
are the usual marks of tapu. Dancing-ornaments of human
hair are mentioned further on by Mrs. Stevenson, and specimens
may be seen in the Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art.
13. Manners. If for 'manners' we read 'morals' this may
be taken as rather understating the case, according to the
evidence of all who know anything of the islands. The Mar-
quesans bear a bad name even among South Sea Islanders,
and seem in this respect incorrigible. But the courtesy and
gracefulness of their manners has always been admitted, and
it has been remarked that ' Marquesan girls are immoral, but
very seldom immodest.' Too much importance, however,
must not be ascribed to this. ' It is optimism to take for
morality the indignation shown by South Sea girls at trifling
violations of custom ' {History of Mankind, i. 293).
14. Piper's news. An old Scots expression, said to originate
from the fact that formerly the pipers travelling about the
country from clachan to clachan and house to house were the
great purveyors of news and gossip. Naturally, however,
being so constantly repeated and carried by so many, the news
was often ' stale'; hence the answer to any one repeating an old
story, ' That 's piper's news?
15. Or at least cannibalism open and unashamed. It is
difficult to find any definite statement on the matter. R. L.
Stevenson says: 'Two or three years ago, the people of a
valley seized and slew a wretch who had offended them. His
offence, it is to be supposed, was dire ; they could not bear to
leave their vengeance incomplete ; and, under the eyes of the
French, they did not dare to hold a public festival. The body
was accordingly divided ; and every man retired to his own
house to consummate the rite in secret, carrying his proportion
of the dreadful meat in a Swedish match-box' (In the South
Seas, p. 95). He refers also to incidents that are at least
suggestive, in the year of his visit, 1888. Still more recent
NOTES 269
testimony is as follows : ' We met a Portuguese who had lived
for years in these islands, and he told us that on one occasion,
a few years ago, he went with a tribe on some expedition.
They saw a native fishing, and called to him to come over
and take a smoke. Suspecting no danger, the man accepted
the invitation, whereupon he was killed and eaten before
the eyes of our informant ' (Sunshine and Surf, Hall and
Osborne, p. 97). A little further on in the same volume it
is stated: 'They have now nominally renounced cannibalism,
though in one of the latest Admiralty Directories they are
still described as practising it' (p. 101). Again, in the History
of Mankind, i. 159, we find the practice of head-hunting,
which is not yet obsolete ; Kubary stated in 1883 that in the
last ten years only thirty-four heads had been cut off.' The close
connection between head-hunting and cannibalism has been
proved in many islands. Mrs. Stevenson herself met with, and
mentions in these letters, men who had been well known as
cannibals in former days, and they are not necessarily of great
age ; and these are cases, it must be remembered, that date
back to the palmy age of cannibalism, when no secret was
made of it. All that can be said with certainty, therefore, is
that it was openly practised within the last half-century ; but
as a public or religious custom has now disappeared. In the
form of private vengeance there is nothing to prove that it
does not still exist.
16. Pae-pae. This word signifies the raised floor or platform
upon which Marquesan houses are built, and in a larger sense
is applied also to the great stone terraces of the temples and
burying-places, to which I have elsewhere made reference.
These were the pae-pae tapu, the holy, or high, places. Even
the platform of an ordinary house was tapu, probably through
some association of idea ; it was the only stable part of the
building ; it was the 'place of the men,' and like their food, and
the fire that cooked it, and the basket in which it lay, was
sacred to their use. The women of the household might not
sit on the pae-pae, they might not go up to it by the men's
stair ; it was the men's place, and tapu.
These raised foundations have been described as a number
of large stones laid in regular and successive courses, and
270 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
built up to a height that varied, according to circumstances,
from four to ten feet. When used for houses they were
generally some thirty to fifty feet long by twelve or fifteen wide ;
but in the case of maraes or temples, and the prehistoric
remains buried in the woods, their dimensions are extraordinary.
The houses themselves are made of perishable material, and
decay at once if deserted ; but the pae-paes on which they
stand are indestructible. Indeed, there is reason to suppose
that some at least of those now or lately in use in the Mar-
quesas may be of considerable antiquity. Melville says of them,
writing in 1842, that the larger pae-paes used for the maraes,
or sacred enclosures, not to speak of still more ancient remains,
bore incontestable signs of great age, and must have been
erected by a people possessed of considerable mechanical skill.
' I can scarcely believe,' he adds, ' that they were built by
the ancestors of the present inhabitants' (Residence in the
Marquesas, p. 174). Even the smaller platforms of the houses
showed no signs of recent construction, and he never became
aware of natives building anything of the sort for their own
use. If a new house were required, it was erected on one of
the innumerable pae-paes that stood vacant throughout the
valley, dating surely from days of larger population and greater
activity. R. L. Stevenson also refers to 'the melancholy
spectacle of empty pae-paes. . . . Only the stones of the
terrace endure, nor can any ruin, cairn, or standing-stone, or
vitrified fort, present a more stern appearance of antiquity'
(In the South Seas, p. 28).
17. Thatching. The best thatch is made of the leaves of the
pandanus, or screw pine, the mi fara, doubled over reeds or
canes. The reeds, about six feet long, are then fastened to the
rafters, and the leaves both sewed and tied ; layer after layer is
added, and when finished, the interior is very neat, and even
artistic ; while from the outside nothing is seen save the over-
lapping points of the leaves. If well done, thatching of this
kind will last from five to seven years; but if too widely spaced,
the rain gets in and the reeds soon decay.
Coco-nut leaves are also plaited into a thatch in some
places, but as a rule are only used for temporary buildings,
being neither so durable nor so good a protection.
NOTES 271
18. Coco-nut juice. It is incorrect to touch the nut with
the lips in drinking, as, according to native etiquette, the juice
should be poured direct into the mouth. Compare with the
practice of ceremonial Kava-drinking, when the nut is presented
to the drinker with prescribed movements, and when emptied,
is tossed back to the Kava-bearer waiting to receive it.
19. ' High Places] or native temples. These sacred places,
'bae-pae tapu, of the old faith, are still numerous, and are well
worth description : they are perhaps the most interesting
they are certainly the most suggestive feature of the islands.
Some have been in use, as it were, but yesterday : others date
back to a past that in the South Seas is prehistoric. The
least of them is amazing, when it is considered what the
Polynesians are, and of what they are capable to-day; the
greatest and oldest are cyclopean and inexplicable.
In the Marquesas, as elsewhere, these maraes or temples
have fallen, not merely out of use, but into decay. Sometimes
they have been intentionally destroyed, more often they are
overgrown in the tropical woods, and the Christianised native is
learning to forget them. Their associations, in these ' man-
eating ' islands, are recent and horrible, but it is worth noting
that they do not importantly vary from the maraes of Tahiti
and other places, where cannibalism is remoter and less
certain. This can be shown by reference to some of those
who have visited and examined them.
Melville, in his Residence in the Marquesas, says : ' In the
midst of the wood was the hallowed " hoolah-hoolah " ground
. . . comprising an extensive oblong /*'-/*' (^-/) terminating
at either end in a lofty, terraced altar, guarded by rows of
hideous wooden idols, and with the two remaining sides flanked
by rows of bamboo sheds opening towards the interior of the
quadrangle thus formed. Vast trees standing in the middle of
this place . . . had their massive trunks built round with
slight stages elevated a few feet above the ground and railed in
with canes, forming so many rustic pulpits from which the
priests harangued devotees ' (p. 100). And again, further on :
' At the base of one of the mountains, and surrounded on all
sides by dense groves, a series of vast terraces of stone rises
step by step for a considerable distance up the hillside. These
272 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
terraces cannot be less than one hundred yards in length and
twenty in width. Their magnitude, however, is less striking
than the immense size of the blocks composing them. Some
of these stones, of an oblong shape, are from ten to fifteen feet
in length, and five or six feet thick. Their sides are quite
smooth, but though square and of regular formation, I could
see no work of the chisel. They are laid together without
cement. . . . The topmost terrace and the lower one are some-
what peculiar in their construction : they have both a quad-
rangular depression in the centre, leaving the rest of the
terrace elevated several feet about it. ... These structures
bear every indication of a high antiquity, . . . [and I was
given] to understand that they are co-eval with the creation of
the world, and that the great gods themselves were the builders.
[This] convinced me that the present inhabitants knew nothing
about them ' (p. 172).
In writing of this visit to which his mother alludes, R. L.
Stevenson says himself: 'As far as my eye could pierce
through the dark undergrowth the floor of the forest was all
paved. Three tiers of terraces ran on the slope of the hill ; in
front, a crumbling parapet contained the main arena ; and the
pavement of that was pierced and parcelled out with several
walls and small inclosures. ... I visited another in Hiva-oa,
smaller but more perfect, where it was easy to follow rows of
benches and to distinguish isolated seats of honour for eminent
persons ; and where on the upper platform a single joist of the
temple or dead-house still remained, its uprights richly carved.
. . . The stones were sedulously set, and I am told they were
kept bright with oil ' (In the South Seas, p. 99).
When we turn to Ellis's Polynesian Researches, we find that
the main features of the Tahitian maraes were still the same.
He describes the greater temples, tapu-tapu-a-tea, as containing
many maraes^ each with their altars, idols, and dormitories for
the attendant priests. All were uncovered overhead, built in the
midst of tapu groves, and consisted of large stone platforms
walled at the sides, with a fence or parapet in front, and a high
pyramidal pile or series of steps along the back. He gives
the measurements of these terraces in the marae of Atehuru.
They were two hundred and seventy feet long, ninety-four feet
wide at the base, and fifty feet high ; the topmost terrace being
NOTES 273
one hundred and eighty feet long by six feet wide. Each step
or terrace was some six feet above the preceding one. The
outer walls, and especially the corner-stones, of coral and
basalt, were laid with great precision, and had evidently been
hewn or squared (vol. i. p. 340).
To these extracts must be added the notes, found here and
there, of prehistoric remains of similar design in other islands,
the 'stone foundations of huge maraes' in Pitcairn Island, and
the ancient terraces on the hills of Rapa. In Hua-hine, one of
the Windwards, a marae in terraces is found beside a splen-
didly built road of Cyclopean stones ; in Ponape' the ruins of
Nanmatal consist of 'terraces of hewn stone divided into
chambers by pillars of basalt, which have been used as tombs.'
One of these, the tomb of the kings of Matalanim, ' rises on a
base six feet high by two hundred and ninety feet long and
two hundred and thirty feet broad, to a height of nearly thirty
feet, with walls ten feet thick, composed of basalt columns'
{History of Mankind, Ratzel, vol. i. p. 159). In Easter Island,
the great terraced maraes are still adorned with their idols.
' Their great number is no less astonishing than their size and
the comparative high-level of their workmanship. Even now
they are reckoned at several hundreds ; their height is nearly
fifty feet, while in one case the width across the shoulders is
not less than ten feet. . . . Many have been thrown down . . .
others still stand on broad platforms built of hewn stone.
Some have hieroglyphics carved on their backs. These images,
weighing many tons, must at one time have been lowered down
the mountain by hawsers and . . . engraved in pits below. . . .
There is also masonry adapted to various purposes, in the shape
sometimes of great staged platforms, sometimes of huts above
or below ground, and with or without internal ornaments of
colour' (Ibid. pp. 159, 160).
It is difficult to believe that these and other great remains
could have originated with such a race as the Polynesians of
to-day. In Easter Island, for instance, the arts of stone-cutting
and writing are alike lost, and it has been declared that these
great works can have been executed by no Easter Islander; in
Nuka-hiva of the Marquesas, Melville is persuaded that at
least the larger remains cannot have been built by the an-
274 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
cestors of the present inhabitants (Residence in the Mar-
quesas, p. 174).
But, indeed, these antiquities are beyond our data. Of the
younger temples, tradition tells us that their foundations were
laid in blood, and planted on the heart or eyeball of a human
victim. We know that their terraces were bloodstained, and that
the blood upon their altars was fresh within a man's memory.
But this is only the history of yesterday ; we have no record of
the remoter past.
20. This is the flamboyant, a name generally applied to
Caesalpinia pulcherrima, though in the western islands it is
sometimes used for the Erythrina. See note 78.
21. War in Raiatea. This refers to one of the frequent
rebellions of the inhabitants of Raiatea (Society Islands)
against the French rule, which culminated, a few years later, in
their hoisting a Union Jack and declaring themselves under
British protection. For international reasons this had to be
disallowed ; but it is a matter for regret to find it recorded that
H.M. Consul at Papeete, having failed to induce the natives to
lower it, stood by while the French man-of-war, after due notice,
shot it down from the flagstaff.
22. Bread-fruit. An excellent description of this is given by
Melville in his Residence in the Marquesas, p. 127. The fruit
somewhat resembles in magnitude and general appearance one
of our citron-melons of ordinary size ; but, unlike the citron, it
has no sectional lines drawn along the outside. Its surface is
dotted all over with little conical prominences, looking not
unlike the knobs on an antiquated church door. The rind is
perhaps an eighth of an inch thick, and denuded of this at the
time when it is in the greatest perfection, the fruit presents a
beautiful globe of white pulp, the whole of which may be eaten,
with the exception of a slender core, which is easily removed.
. . . The fruit, when in a particular stage of greenness, is
placed among the embers of a fire in the same way that you
would roast a potato. After the lapse of ten or fifteen minutes
the green rind embrowns and cracks, showing through the
fissures in its sides the milk-white interior. As soon as it
cools the rind drops off, and you then have the round pulp in
its purest and most delicious state.'
NOTES 275
There are, however, many other ways of cooking and prepar-
ing it. As ka-ku, elsewhere mentioned (pp. 101, 276), it is said
to be excellent, and roasted as above and then soaked in water
is a favourite native dish. Both in the Marquesas and Tahiti it
is stored at the height of the season for future use. Sometimes
it is baked in huge ovens in the ground, and only taken out as
required. Another method is to mash it and allow it slightly
to ferment ; it is then wrapped in ti leaves and stored in pits,
whence it is lifted and cooked when v/anted for use. Poi-poi
is made from it, as well as from taro and fei (the mountain
banana), or a mixture of both, poi-poi being the staple dish of
the islands, and made from that plant that is most plentifully
available. But the bread-fruit is never eaten raw save by pigs ;
and it is better described as a ' vegetable ' than as a fruit, the
taste and character resembling, but not equalling, the Euro-
pean potato. Even its feeding qualities have been disputed.
Ellis says in his Researches (i. p. 41), that it is 'very nutritious,
as a very perceptible improvement is often manifest in the
appearance of the people a few weeks after the bread-fruit
season has commenced,' while in the Encyclopcedia Britannica
we find the exactly opposite statement, that ' it is not by any
means so nutritious as the taro or yam. . . . The present
writer has noticed that the Samoans suffered much in condition,
and sickness among children was very common, and the
mortality high during the bread-fruit season.'
All, however, are ready to recognise the beauty and value of
the tree, of which there are some fifty varieties in Tahiti, all of
them extremely handsome, both in growth and foliage. When
hundreds of green or golden fruit hang among its dark shining
leaves, no finer object can be imagined. It is also very useful.
Besides producing two and even three crops of fruit in the year,
the resin that flows from the punctured bark is used to caulk
the seams of the native boats. The timber is employed in
building both canoes and houses, and is durable and very fine
in colour. Finally, in some of the islands, and notably in
Tahiti, the finest tapa or native cloth is made from the bark
of the Artocarpus incisa, or bread-fruit tree, though in the
Marquesas the bark of the paper mulberry, Morns papyri/era^
called by the islanders the //, or cloth-tree, is used for that
purpose.
276 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
In Polynesian legendary lore, also, the bread-fruit has a place,
and this is the story told of its origin :
It seems that in the days of a certain king, when people ate
the ' red earth ' (araea), there were a man and his wife who had
one well-beloved son. He was their joy and also their sorrow,
for he was weak and ailing and unable to fight or thrive ; and
the man said to his wife : ' Behold, my heart is lamenting over
this matter ; our son cannot eat the red earth, and therefore he
cannot grow into a man. I will die and become food for him,
that he may eat and thrive.'
' But how may that be ? ' said the wife.
' I will go and pray to my gods,' he answered; 'they will
know how it may be.'
So he prayed and got answer ; and, calling his wife to him,
he said : ' Behold now, I am about to die ; when I am dead,
take then my body separate, and plant my head in one place,
and my heart and stomach in another, and go into the house
and wait. When you shall have heard the sound of a bud
bursting, and the sound of a flower unfolding, and the sound of
an unripe fruit swelling, and the sound of a ripe fruit falling on
the ground, you will know that I have become food for my son,
and you will give him to eat.'
And when she did as he bade, and took her son out of the
house to give him to eat, there stood a splendid tree laden with
fruit ; and he plucked the fruit, and gave the first of it to his
gods and to the king, and he ate and grew strong. . . .
23 and 24. Ka-ku. Melville describes the grater used by
the natives in the preparation of this dish. ' This is done by
means of a piece of mother-of-pearl shell, lashed firmly to the
extreme end of a heavy stick, with its straight side accurately
notched like a saw' {Residence in the Marquesas, p. 127). He
also describes the cream as being squeezed from the grated
fruit alone, without the addition of any of the juice (Ibid. p. 1 28).
25. Reed-pipe. ' It is somewhat longer than an ordinary fife,
is made of a beautiful scarlet-coloured reed, and has four or five
stops, with a large hole near one end, which latter is held just
beneath the left nostril. The other nostril being closed by
a peculiar movement of the muscles about the nose, the breath
is forced into the tube, and produces a soft dulcet sound . . .'
NOTES 277
(Melville, Residence in the Marquesas, p. 2 5 1 ). I have not found
mention of any other musical instrument in the Marquesas,
apart from the drum and the sticks, tapped together, as an
accompaniment to the voice.
26 and 27. Adoption and decrease of population. It is a common
practice to account for the decrease of population in many of
the South Sea Islands (for in some there is no such decrease)
by the influence of civilisation. Foreign habits, clothing, and
restrictions, foreign vices and foreign disease, are made to bear
the entire blame, though the evidence is strong against such a
sweeping statement ; and it cannot be denied that foreign rule,
if not always wise, does at least endeavour to safeguard public
health and the birth-rate. Moreover, it must be admitted that
in certain islands such habits of debauchery prevailed that it
was barely possible to make matters worse ; and if disease has
been imported, this alone could not account for a state of things
that existed already. For 'important phenomena in the social
life of the island races, such as adoption in its various forms
and the ruined state of large houses, point to a long previous
period of this lamentable decrease ' (Ratzel, History of Man-
kind, i. p. 159). When Ellis wrote his Polynesian Researches,
early in the last century, he stated that the population of the
Marquesas was then diminishing, and that it had physically
deteriorated ; and he says of Tahiti, that when he first knew the
island, ' the nation appeared to be on the verge of extinction' ;
and it was not till 1819 or 1820 that the birth- and death-rate
were nearly equalised. This is, indeed, not difficult to believe,
when it is remembered that inter-tribal warfare was so nearly
continuous that a three-years' peace was extraordinary in their
annals ; that human sacrifices and in the Marquesas canni-
balism made hundreds of victims in every year ; and that
infanticide and abortion were constantly and universally
practised. To what extent this was carried we can form some
idea from Ellis's Researches (vol. i. p. 257). He states that after
full inquiry, he believes that two-thirds of the children were
killed as soon as born ; that he himself knew women who had
respectively murdered six, eight, or ten of their infants ; and
that in almost every case the first three were so disposed of.
His washerwoman owned to having killed five or six, and out
278 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
of eight another had only kept one ; and in 1829, while dis-
cussing the subject with a visitor, three respectable and decent
native women present, the eldest of whom was not forty years
of age, confessed that they had killed twenty-one of their
children, the numbers being respectively nine, seven, and five.
He adds emphatically, ' I could not meet with, nor even hear of,
one female who had not at some time done the same. 5
It is evident from these and other figures quoted that in
Tahiti, at least, and probably in the Marquesas (where in very
recent days the women were unwilling to 'spoil their beauty' by
bearing children while still young), the natural birth-rate cannot
have been phenomenally low. The wholesale destruction of
so many infants had, however, several results : it reduced the
proportion of women to one to four or five men, and encouraged
the practice of polyandry and the recognition (to some degree)
of the matriarchate. When we add to these the customs of
cannibalism or human sacrifice, and of constant inter-tribal
warfare, as well as the habits of immorality common to these
races, it is not difficult to believe that the decrease of popula-
tion can only in part be attributed to the effect of civilisa-
tion.
The adoption of children is usually considered to be caused
by this decrease, and doubtless this is generally correct ;
childless parents who desire heirs will rather adopt them than
remain childless, and the value of sons is recognised amongst
all primitive peoples. But there is another and curious ex-
planation of the custom found in Samoa which is worth quoting,
for it may very well also apply to other of the islands. There
appears to have been a general rule that a child was given to a
father's sister. In return she gave the child's parents what was
known as ' foreign ' property, or oloa, the child being looked on
as ' native ' property, or tonga. This practice was continuous
while the child lived ; it therefore became a sort of medium for
trade, the native property, or tonga (fish, fruit, etc.), always
passing to the adopted from the real parents, and the foreign or
oloa (mats, cloth, and so on) to the real from the adopted
parents. ' Hence the custom was not so much the want of
natural affection as the sacrifice of it to a systematic facility of
traffic. . . . Hence also parents may have in their family
NOTES 279
adopted children, while their own children are elsewhere'
(Turner, Samoa One Hundred Years Ago, p. 83).
It is only fair to add that the children, once allowed to live,
are universally treated with kindness and affection, both by the
real and adopted parents. I have also been told that wherever
the couvade in a modified form is practised (as in the Mar-
quesas, where the father abstains from flesh-meat and from
hard work for a month after the child's birth), in the case of
adoption before birth, it is the adoptive father and mother who
follow these customs, and not the actual parents. This, how-
ever, I have not been able to verify.
28. Tai-o-hae. It is interesting to quote from a volume more
recent by thirteen years than the visit of the Stevensons :
' This is indeed a lovely bay. It is almost landlocked, having
a very narrow entrance, and the mountains rise steeply on every
side of it for several hundred feet, all clothed in most brilliant
green tropical jungle. . . . Tai-o-hae is a very different place
now from what it was in former times, even when Stevenson
wrote about it. Now there is no club, very little trade, and
only one white trader ; and the whole place seems to be
absolutely going to rack and ruin. The village at one time
(in 1840) was stated to have a population, although it is hardly
credible, of eighteen thousand. What a come-down it is to the
wretched ninety inhabitants, which the Administrator told me
was the total population of the island capital ' (Sunshine and
Surf, Hall and Osborne, pp. 103, 104).
29. Queen Vaekehu. Stevenson says of her : '.This was a
queen of cannibals. She was tattooed from head to foot, and
perhaps the greatest masterpiece of that art now extant, so that
a while ago, before she was grown prim, her leg was one of the
sights of Tai-o-hae. She had been passed from chief to chief ;
she had been fought for and taken in war ; perhaps, being so
great a lady, she had sat on the high place, and throned it
there, alone of her sex, while the drums were going twenty
strong, and the priests carried up the bloodstained baskets
of long-pig' (In the South Seas, p. 75). Elsewhere I find
that there is ' a common report about her, which I believe is
true, that years ago she got tired of her husband, the prince
consort, and had him killed, and ate him. Now she is "very
280 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
missionary," and has even had a special road made from her
"palace" to the Catholic mission' {Sunshine and Surf, Hall
and Osborne^ p. 103).
30. The girls' school. In spite of the efforts of the sisters,
it cannot be said that any marked effect is produced by their
teaching. To Mr. Stevenson they ' lamented their failure. . . .
They complain of the heartless indifference of the girls. Out
of so many pretty and apparently affectionate pupils whom they
have taught and reared, only two have ever returned to pay a
visit of remembrance to their teachers' (In the South Seas,
p. 57). It is also stated that 'as soon as the girls leave the
control of the sisterhood, all restraint appears to vanish. . . .'
Such an idea as getting married never enters their heads, and
would be thought a useless and troublesome ceremony. They
do indeed sometimes, to please the sisters, go through the cere-
mony, but do not consider it at all binding' {Sunshine and
Surf, Hall and Osborne, p. 100).
31. Stanislas Moanatini. It is stated in Sunshine and Surf
that he died not long after Mr. Stevenson's visit to the island.
32. Tapa. The native cloth of the South Sea Islanders
varies not only in quality and decoration, but also in the special
bark from which it is made. In Tahiti, where it is called ahu,
the natives make use of the Aoa (a kind of banyan), the bread-
fruit, and the paper mulberry ; but in the Marquesas only the
latter is employed, and is called by the islanders the auti t or
cloth-tree.
When the young branches are gathered and the bark
removed, there is found a fibrous substance, the bast, which is
carefully loosened and stripped from the stick ; and as soon as
enough of this has been collected, it is wrapped up in leaves,
and the package set to soak for two or three days in running
water. It is ready for the next process when the fibres are on
the point of commencing to rot, and have completely lost their
tough and wiry quality. They are then laid in layers on a
smooth, hard surface, and beaten steadily and regularly with a
kind of mallet. This mallet or beater is not flat, but slightly
ribbed, and it is this ribbing that produces the ' watered ' or
striped effect noticeable in all good tapa, especially when very
fine and thin. The different layers of bast are very soon amal-
NOTES 281
gamated, and in a surprisingly short time can be hammered out
into any degree of thickness that is required ; in less than an
hour the strips will expand into a square, and presently the tapa
is ready to be stretched out to dry and bleach. In the Mar-
quesas the natives seem to prefer the pure white of the natural
tapa, but elsewhere it is often dyed with real skill and taste. In
Tahiti, for instance, a beautiful bright red made from the Mati
berry (Ficus prolixa}, a yellow obtained from the root of the
nono (Morinda citrifolia) and a chocolate or brownish-black
from the candle-nut (Aleuritis), are most effectively used for
the purpose.
The designs are sometimes painted on, and sometimes
printed from blocks which Nature herself supplies ; leaves of
ferns, flowers, etc., are dipped into the colour, laid on to the
tapa, and held firmly in place till their shape is transferred to
the material. The dyes are often varnished with a resinous
gum, and the colours are brilliant and lasting, while the cloth
itself, if well prepared, will stand a surprising amount of usage.
The work was almost entirely in the hands of women, who
were debarred only from making cloth for the priests and other
tapn purposes, when it had to be intrusted to men. It was
sometimes made in ' cloth-houses,' when queens were ready to
help and supervise, and as often singly and alone, and the
musical tapping of the hammer is still characteristic of island
villages.
There is a pretty legend about the origin of tapa, which of
course is God-given. The divine couple were about to create
mankind, and agreed to share the labour ; he was to produce
man, and she to make woman. He moulded a man out of his
thought, making him strong, tall, and agile, but he forgot
beauty. Nevertheless he exulted, and cried out to his wife,
' Thou canst never equal this my work ! '
She looked upon it and saw that her own puppet was the
more beautiful, for she had made it out of her own flesh, round
and warm and soft ; but she said nothing, for she was very
wise, till she had taken a piece of cloth and twisted it round
the beauty of the woman and set her beside the man. ' Behold,
she is so unworthy of the man thy work,' she said, ' that she
shall go veiled. . . .'
282 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
She was very wise. And the women, being of her flesh, make
tapa, and clothe themselves to this day.
33. Old man's beard. Human hair forms a favourite orna-
ment in the Marquesas and other islands, and has probably a
religious signification. 'When we find that in the Marquesas
cannibal feasts were preceded by cutting off the victim's hair to
make arm-rings, head-dresses, and necklets of magical potency,
we cannot fail to see cannibal significance in the frequent use
of human hair to adorn spears and helmets, or of human bones
and skulls as drinking-vessels ' (History of Mankind, Ratzel,
i. p. 298). Mrs. Stevenson elsewhere alludes to ' dancing-orna-
ments made of human hair'; and her son mentions the extremely
high sums at which these beards are valued (In the South Seas,
p. 80). There are specimens of head-dresses from the Austral
Isles, with long human hair, very light in colour, dependent
from them, as well as armlets and leglets of human hair from
the Marquesas, in the Edinburgh Museum of Science and
Art.
34. Kanaka or Kanak. This word which, in slightly varying
forms in the different dialects, originally meant ' a man ' or a
male as distinct from the female, is now used by all whites,
and by the natives themselves, to designate the islanders.
Hence it is possible to speak of a ''Kanak lady,' which once
would have been a contradiction in terms.
35. Hiva-oa. This island was discovered in 1595 by
Mendano, who christened it ' Domenica,' by which name it is
still known to the Spanish-speaking peoples. Like most of the
South Sea islands, however, it is now better known under its
native name ; and it is often called, locally, the Man-eating
island. Certainly the latest authenticated stories of cannibalism
date from thence, and Moipu is generally the hero of them.
In 1888 he was still in middle life, and his deeds were recent
and unforgotten.
36. Poi-poi is not always the same thing, though called by
the same name in different islands. It is made, according to
circumstances, either of taro or bread-fruit, whichever is the
more plentiful. When taro is used, it is well washed to remove
the bitter and unwholesome part, ground into flour, which is
then kneaded into a dough and allowed to slightly ferment. It
NOTES 283
tastes a little like sour porridge, and will keep good a con-
siderable time. In the Marquesas, however, it is generally
made of the bread-fruit, which also is half-fermented, and the
dish is described as 'looking like yellow porridge.' Bread-fruit
for this purpose is generally gathered at the time of full har-
vest, freed from the rind and core, and pounded into a sort of
paste or dough, which, well wrapped in many coverings of
leaves, is stored in pits dug out of the earth. It will thus keep
not only from season to season, but for several years ; and
when required for use has only to be baked, unwrapped, and
the yellowish, slightly acid cake mixed with a proper proportion
of water. Mr. Stevenson mentions pits forty feet deep and
proportionately wide that were used for storing the bread-fruit in
the days of a larger population, and are still to be seen, though
long deserted and unnecessary.
37. Biblical Parallels. It has attracted the notice of some
who have lived in the South Seas that there is an extraordinary
resemblance between many passages in the Bible and the
customs of Polynesian life. Pouring water over the hands after
eating is but a minor instance ; but to the leaping and dancing
before the Ark (2 Sam. vi. 16) we find an exact parallel in the
contortions and posturings of even the most dignified 'high-chief
before any one he desires to honour. When David says that he
went in and sat before the Lord(\ Chron. xvii. 16), we remember
that in Polynesia it is disrespect and insult to stand in the
presence of a superior ; and the words kissed /rim, and smelled
the smell of his raiment (Gen. xxvii. 27) exactly describe a South
Sea greeting, when, after touching noses, each sniffs audibly
and smells the other's hand and garment. In Polynesia, as in
Palestine, the dead are embalmed ; circumcision is practised ;
a bride's handmaidens are of her own blood and accompany
her to become her husband's concubines ; a widow marries her
dead husband's brother or his nearest male relative. Oil is
used to anoint the sick, and ' oil to make my face to shine '
(Psalm civ. 15) is a daily use in the islands of the Pacific. In
sign of mourning the Jews rent their clothes, cut themselves,
and scattered dust and ashes over their heads ; the Polynesians
scored their limbs and faces with shark's teeth (and these for
the purpose were included in the trousseau of every bride), and
284 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
rubbed the foul-smelling mud from the taro-fields over their
bodies and hair. Those who attended the Jewish dead must
fast //// the sun go down, so must their prototypes in the South
Seas ; in Palestine they made a very great burning for the dead,
in Polynesia they kindled a flaming fire as an invocation to the
gods. Sacrifices were offered up ; first-fruits were consecrate ;
the priesthood autocratic and to some degree hereditary.
Both in Judaea and the West Pacific the word brother includes
nephews and cousins. . . .
Nor are these the only instances. The story of the Fall is
found in many of the least-visited islands ; in Fiji it is asso-
ciated with the serpent. In Fakaafo it is believed that the first
man, who proceeded from a rock, made his wife out of clay and
enclosed one of his own ribs in her body ; in Tahiti we are told
that Tairoa (elsewhere Tangaroa} created man from red earth,
and woman from z'z//, bone, which in some versions is given as
the woman's name. (The word also means a widow, and a
victim slain in battle.) There was a Samoan Jonah who was
swallowed by a whale, but whose great ear-ornaments of wood
so tickled the animal's stomach that he was finally vomited
forth again, alive but weak ; there is the story of the great god
Oro (or O Rongo) who with his mother's assistance ousted his
elder brother Tairoa and possessed himself of his birthright.
And the tradition of the Deluge is everywhere throughout the
South Seas, in many variations that are fundamentally the same.
In the Societies it is said that Tairoa, being angry with men for
their disobedience to his will, overturned the world, so that the
earth sank into the waters and left only those tops of moun-
tains emerging that make the islands of to-day ; in Eimeo
(Moorea) it is believed that here the Polynesian Noah landed
when the waters went down, and built the first marae to his gods.
In the Raiatea story it is a fisherman who tangles his hook in
the sleeping sea-god's hair and provokes the doom of the
Deluge ; but who by penitence is allowed to betake himself in
his boat, ' with wife and child and all that he hath,' to a certain
island which should be preserved in the midst of the engulphing
waters. And in the Windwards there is a quaint chronicle of
a husband and wife who took refuge on Pitohito, the 'mountain
round as a breast': The wife took up her young chicken, the
NOTES 285
husband his young pig ; the wife took up her young dog, and the
kitten, the husband took that. . . . There they watched nights
ten, the sea ebbed, and they two saw the little heads of the moun-
tains. When the sea ebbed, the land remained without produce
and the fish were putrid in the hollows of the rocks. They said,
' Dig a hole for the fish in the sea.' The wind died and the stones
and trees fell from the heavens, whither they had been carried up;
they fell hard; the man said, ' Dig a hole for 'tis two, a dwelling-
place.' . . . There were no houses, no palm-trees, no bread-fruit, no
grass, all had been eaten by the sea. The woman brought forth
children; still there was no food; the children grew up without
food. Then the trees bore fruit and there was food; in three
days covered was the land with food. . . . And from these two,
father and mother, filled was the land with men. (Condensed
from a long account in Ellis's Polynesian Researches, i. chap, xv.)
38. Adoption. The adoption of children at or before birth
has been already mentioned. Adult adoption is also frequent,
and arises from several causes. It is sometimes a form or part
of marriage, when a man is adopted into his wife's family and
obtains recognised rights in it ; it is a declaration of tribal heir-
ship, and the native form, as it were, of ' the freedom of the
city.' For, although in this case the adoption was into the
chiefs family, and Mrs. Stevenson mentions that, Had they so
desired, they would have been entitled to make their home with
him ; although R. L. Stevenson adds, ' Had we stayed at Atuona,
Paaaeua would have held himself bound to establish us upon his
land, and to set apart young men for our service, and trees for
our support ' (In the South Seas, p. 132), it is probable that the
adoption was rather into the clan or community as personified by
the chief, than into the chiefs family alone. ' Property belonging
to a "clan" is held in common. Each clan usually possesses
land, and over this no one member has an exclusive right, but
all have an equal right to use it. The chief . . . alone can pro-
perly dispose of it or assign its use for a time to an outsider,
and even he is expected to obtain the consent of the heads of
families before he alienates the property. Thus land is handed
down through successive generations under the nominal control
of the recognised head of the clan or section for the time being '
(Encyclopedia Britannica, vol. xix. p. 424).
286 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Note also, in this connection, the reply of Frcrc Michel when
asked if he ' owned the property of his adopted mother.' ' Yes,
so long as I do not steal it' ( Letters, page 123).
39. No-nos. This is the native name of a species of sand-fly,
very troublesome in Nuka-hiva (as in some other islands). It
is sometimes known also as the ' day-fly,' from the fact that it
disappears at night, when it is replaced by mosquitoes ; but
its bites are more poisonous than those of the latter insect,
producing large lumps which, owing to the heat of the climate,
are apt to fester, and prove difficult to cure. The natives are
said to paint themselves with a preparation of saffron, as a
preventative (Sunshine and S^/rf, Hall and Osborne, p. 98).
40. Legend of the no-nos. Another form of this is quoted in
Sunshine and Surf '(Hall and Osborne), p. 98 : ' The inhabitants
have an old legend concerning this, which relates that one of
their cannibal gods, being displeased with these two islands
(Uapu and Nuka-hiva), threw a coco-nut shell at them filled
with these insects, and broke half on one island and half on
another.'
41. 28/7? August. A day notable to Mrs. Stevenson for her
own marriage, and for other family events that have occurred
upon that date.
42. Moipu. This chief is perhaps the best-known and most
notorious of any connected with the latest days of cannibalism
I would say, in preference, ' of surviving cannibals ' but that I
cannot discover whether, since the Stevensons' visit, he has
not been carried off by the fast-increasing mortality of the
Marquesas. At any rate, in 1888 he was a man of little more
than middle age, hardy and active, making, as I understand,
small display of conversion, and less of respect for the
authorities ; his name notorious, and his evil reputation won
in days only a very few years gone by. His village, Atuona, is
the scene of perhaps the best authenticated stories of recent
cannibalism. Hiva-oa, in which it lies, is still called the man-
eating island. In 1888, Moipu was still surrounded by his
young men, 'late his braves and pot-hunters'; and Mr.
Stevenson says of him, 'When man-eating was referred to, he
laughed a low cruel laugh, part boastful, part bashful, like one
reminded of some dashing peccadillo. ... His favourite
NOTES 287
morsel was the human hand, of which he speaks to-day with an
ill-favoured lustfulness' (In the South Seas, pp. 138, 139).
43. Coco-nut salad. This dainty is costly, even in the South
Seas. It is made from the young centre shoots of the coco-nut
palm, and as this is an endogenous tree growing from the
centre, it is killed by the removal of the shoots. In New
Zealand and elsewhere the same is true of the cabbage-palm ;
the 'cabbage' is a delicious dish, but it costs the life of the
tree.
44. Stealing. Dishonesty is nevertheless not considered a
natural failing of the islanders. From each other they do not
steal ; the house of a fellow- Kanaka, though it be left completely
open and the owner away, remains untouched. But the same
laws do not seem to apply to their relations with the whites
perhaps because, as some assert, the whites have not always
set them the best of examples.
45. The Paiimotus. Ellis, in his Researches (\\\. p. 303), gives
an excellent impression of these islands of the Low, or
Dangerous, Archipelago :
' They are low, narrow islands of coralline formation, and
though among them some few are hilly, the greater number
do not rise more than three feet above the water. . . . Those
already known seem to be increasing in size, while others are
constantly approaching the surface of the sea : sometimes they
rise like a perpendicular wall from the depths of the ocean to
the level of its surface ; at other times reefs or groves of varied
and most beautiful form and colour extend in the form of
successive terraces below the water to a considerable distance.
Here islands may be seen in every stage of their progress ;
some presenting little more than a point or summit of a
branching coralline pyramid at a depth scarcely discernible
through the transparent waters ; others spreading like sub-
marine gardens . . . beneath the surface, or appearing here
and there in a little bank of coral and sand over which the
rolling wave occasionally breaks ; while a number rise like
long curved banks of sand, coral, and shells, some two or
three feet above the sea, clothed with grass and adorned with
coco-nut and Pandanus trees. They generally form a curved
line, . . . the'bank of soil or rock being seldom more than half
288 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
a mile or a mile across, yet often clothed with richest verdure.
Within this enclosure is a space sometimes of great extent.
In the island of Hao ... it is said that ships may sail for
many miles after entering the lagoon, the narrow strip of coral
and sand enclosing the basin being sixty or seventy miles in
length, although exceedingly narrow.' It should be added
that even these measurements can be exceeded ; for the atoll-
island of Fakarava, which Mrs. Stevenson visited, consists of a
strip of land little more than a quarter of a mile wide, but
eighty or ninety miles long, which encloses a lagoon of thirty
miles by about twelve.
These islands have also been called the ' Pearl Islands' on
account of the pearls obtained amongst them, pearl-diving
being also their only recognised industry. The actual trade,
however, is in the shell, which commands a steady market,
while the pearl itself is the windfall of the diver save, here and
there, under special conditions. The great pearl for which
Queen Victoria paid six thousand pounds came from this
group ; as did also another notable one possessed by the
Empress Eugenie. On the whole, the trade seems carefully
and wisely regulated by the French authorities, the divers
being reasonably well paid, and the ' fishery ' reserved to the
native inhabitants ; the ' pearl-beds, ' and the islands where
they occur, are kept under control, and are ' opened ' in turn,
an interval of rest or close season being rigorously enforced.
It is said that the export of shell from Tahiti (whither it is
taken) is largely increasing, and while the find of pearls is
irregular, the yearly value has also increased.
46. Artificial soil in the Paumolus, The soil found in islands
of coral formation is of very varying quality and character.
Sometimes there is a considerable depth of fertile earth ; but
in those islands that are very slightly raised above the level of
the sea the soil is shallow and almost non-existent, and the
coral sand or detritus that replaces it so strongly impregnated
with salt-water, that little of any service will flourish beyond
the coco-palm and the Pandanus, and a large inferior variety
of taro. Yet by means of earth brought from Tahiti, and built
up into banks or terraces, it is possible to overcome this
difficulty. Mrs. Stevenson mentions fig-trees and bananas ;
NOTES 289
and elsewhere it is recorded that by the same artificial system,
aided by irrigation, there are to be found in one or other of the
Paumotus Islands plantations of sugar-cane, sweet potatoes
and yams, besides the finer sorts of taro, the plantain, and
some garden flowers and shrubs (Ratzel, History of Man-
kind, i. p. 254).
47. Euranna. Later, in the light of longer acquaintance,
Mrs. Stevenson successively modifies ' this to yuranna and
iao-ranua. The latter is probably the most correct. It is a
word that has proved an evident difficulty to other persons
also, to judge by the varying forms in which we meet with it ;
including, for instance, Yarra na and Yar honor.
48. See page 303, note 69.
49. Bcnitier, or Holy-water shell. The clam or Tridacna,
called by the natives paua, and given the above name from its
frequent employment in Roman Catholic churches. It is found
in great quantities among the Pacific islands ; and in the
Paumotus the paua toka, or stone clam ( Tridacna gigas\ grows
to enormous size. 'The shell is formed of two great valves
connected by hinged teeth, and muscles of extraordinary
power ; . . . the strength of many men could not detach one
of the larger ones from its bed, for as years go by the clam
settles into the coral, and the shell becomes part of the rock
itself.' Walking over a bed of even the smaller paua is
dangerous, and divers when caught by Tridacna gigas are
fortunate if they escape with only the loss of a limb.
50. Coolin. A Skye terrier once greatly beloved by Mr. and
Mrs. Stevenson. His epitaph, composed in Latin by Thomas
Stevenson, was formerly at Swanston Cottage, and is now at
Skerryvore, Bournemouth.
51. Taniera Mahinui. This gentleman is more fully
described by R. L. Stevenson as ' Catechist and convict. . . .
I affirm he was well qualified for either part. For that of con-
vict, first of all, by a good substantial felony, such as in all
lands casts the perpetrator into chains and dungeons. . . . He
was condemed in five years. The period, when I had the
pleasure of his friendship, was not yet expired ; he still drew
prison rations, the sole and not unwelcome reminder of his
chains, and, I believe, looked forward to the date of his enfran-
290 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
chisement with mere alarm. . . . And as for his parishioners,
they did not think one hair the less of him.
' On the other hand, he was even highly qualified for his office
in the Church ; being by nature a grave, considerate, and kindly
man ; his face rugged and serious, his smile bright ; . . .
endowed with a fine pulpit voice ; endowed besides with such
a gift of eloquence that at the grave of the late chief of Fakarava
he set all the assistants weeping. I never met a man of a mind
more ecclesiastical. . . .' (In the South Seas, pp. 161, 162).
52 and 53. Mormon or Baptist. It is stated by R. L. Steven-
son that the Paumotus are divided between two churches, the
Roman Catholic and the Mormon, and he makes no mention of
Baptists. But he does refer to the curious type of Mormon to
be found in the islands : ' He marries but one wife, uses the
Protestant Bible, observes Protestant forms of worship, forbids
the use of liquor and tobacco, practises adult baptism by
immersion, and after every public sin rechristens the back-
slider. I advised with Mahinui, whom I found well informed in
the history of the American Mormons, and he declared against
the least connection. . . . And for all that, Mormons they are,
but of the earlier sowing ; the so-called Josephites, the
followers of Joseph Smith, the opponent of Brigham Young'
(In the South Seas, p. 174). It was probably the practices
of these Mormons that led Mrs. Stevenson to call them
Baptists.
Religion in Polynesia, however, has constant surprises, and
is very ready to fly off at a tangent, in a way that is exceedingly
mysterious and hard to understand. Perhaps its most curious
phenomena are the independent offshoots of Christianity :
' Thus in Upolu, Siovedi, a native of Savaii, founded the
" Gimblet religion? Professing to converse with God and to
work miracles, he enjoined the mutual confession of sins in cases
of sickness, and his divine service was rendered specially im-
pressive by the discharge of firearms. Another native, in
Samoa, taught the invocation of the God of heaven, and
brought with him, on his return from the whale-fishing, an old
woman who used to " touch " for diseases from behind a curtain,
alleging that Christ resided within her' (Ratzel, History of
Mankind, i. 190, 191).
NOTES 291
R. L. Stevenson himself mentions, as connected with the
Paumotus Mormons, the Israelites and the Kanitus, though he
could neither fathom their differences nor account for their
names, the latter of the two being of no known language ; and
he refers also to a sect still more difficult to fathom, which is
known as the Whistlers. It appears that their meetings are
public and all may attend who will; the 'faithful' sit round,
singing hymns, while in the centre sits the priest leader
medium? enveloped in a sheet. ' And presently from just above
his head, or sometimes from the midst of the roof, an aerial
whistling proceeds, appalling to the inexperienced. This, it
appears, is the language of the dead ; its purport is taken down
progressively by one of the expert, . . . and the communica-
tions are at last made to the public. They are of the baldest
triviality. . . .' (South Seas, p. 178).
54. Coco-nut Palm. This remarkable tree (Coccos nucifera),
plays so great a part in tropical life that it deserves a detailed
description. We all know it by name and appearance ; we all
know the nuts as they are sold to us here, in a condition that
the Polynesian would consider only fit for pigs. But it is safe
to say that very few persons have any conception of what place
the coco-palm holds in the life of the South Pacific.
' Year after year the islander reposes beneath its shade, both
eating and drinking of its fruit ; he thatches his hut with its
leaves and weaves them into baskets to carry his food ; he
cools himself with a fan plaited from the young leaflets and
shields his head from the sun by a bonnet made from the same ;
sometimes he clothes himself with the cloth-like substance which
wraps round the base of the long stalks, whose elastic rods,
strung with candle-nuts, are used as a taper ; the larger nuts,
thinned and polished, furnish him with a beautiful goblet ; the
smaller ones with bowls for his pipes ; the dry husks kindle his
fires ; their fibres are twisted into fishing-lines and cords for
his canoes ; he heals his wounds with a balsam compounded
from the juice of the nut ; and with the oil extracted from its
meat embalms the dead and embellishes the living. The
trunk, sawn into posts, supports his dwelling ; converted into
charcoal it cooks his food; and supported on blocks of stone it
rails in his lands. He impels his canoe through the water with
292 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
a paddle of the wood, and from the same hard material he
fashions his clubs and spears.'
This is, however, a most incomplete summary. The tree had
its part in the highest concerns of native life : a coco-nut leaf
(which consists, it must be remembered, of a six- or eight-foot
rod, bearing along some four-fifths of its length two opposite
rows of sword-shaped leaflets, each about eighteen inches long)
was the symbol of chiefly authority, and was sent by a chief to
his dependants when he demanded their obedience. Tied to
the sacrifice, it was the channel by which the god was believed
to enter and make the offering sacred ; laid on the body of one
afflicted with disease, it was the door through which the evil
spirits who tormented him were driven out. Bunches or
strings of the leaflets were hung up in the temples, and are
said to have been used in something the same way as the
rosary beads of Roman Catholics ; and to this day presents of
food, or gifts, are tied up with coco-leaflets, perhaps without
conscious significance, but certainly as a survival of old custom.
Even their idols came sometimes from the same source. Oro,
their great god, was embodied in a six-foot log of coco-palm,
in his temple at Tautira on the peninsula of Tahiti ; a living
tree of the same species has more than once been revered as
the representative of a deity, and a piece of sinnet was the
embodiment of the terrible Tanc-Kio, the chirper.
In medicine the coco-nut was esteemed, though some of its
uses are peculiar : for a headache, for instance, the patient was
made to drink the juice of a nut and then stand on his head for a
stated time ! Coco-nut oil was employed as an emetic, and in
cases of bleeding, whether venous or arterial, the spongy kernel
of an old and sprouting nut was tied firmly upon the wound. The
juice, in particular stages of fermentation, was given for several
ailments, notably for dysentery ; and one preparation, in which
the milk of a ripe nut was an important ingredient, was so
prompt in its results that the 'doctor' usually called the family
of the patient together, to be ready (in either event) for the
almost instantaneous 'kill or cure.' The native practice of
surgery was, however, surprisingly good, and on a different
level to much of their so-called medicine; and here again the
coco-nut had its uses. It was, for instance, not uncommon to
NOTES 293
trepan, when the skull had been fractured in battle ; and when
the broken bone was removed, it was replaced by a piece of
coco-nut shell, covered again with the skin, etc., and left to heal.
Many of these cases are said to have made good recoveries, and
in the earlier part of last century there were men living on whom
the operation had been successfully performed. Another form
of it, however, was tried by these enterprising surgeons with
other results ; when the brain itself had suffered, they opened
the skull and removed the injured portion, replacing it by the
brain of a newly killed pig, and covering it in as before with a
piece of coco-nut shell. In these cases it appears that frenzy
and death very shortly supervened.
Again, the body was rubbed down daily, and always after
immersion in salt water, with chewed coco-nut or with coco-
nut oil ; and a fine and aromatic preparation of the latter was
obtained by preserving it in the gourd-like fruit of the nono
(Morinda citrifolid). The oil as it used to be expressed by the
natives, or ' copra,' the dried nut, from which it is now generally
prepared in the home manufactories, is, of course, the great
trading interest of the South Seas.
As an article of food, it is difficult even to enumerate the
forms in which it is employed. It may be noted here that
each stage of the nut has its uses and its own especial name ;
when it is full grown but soft-shelled and light in colour, holding
over a pint of juice, but with no pulp, it is called oua, and is
principally used for drinking. A few weeks later and a soft white
pulp is developed round the inside of the shell ; it has been
likened (in appearance) to the white of a lightly boiled egg, and
in this stage, m'aa, is preferred for cooking. Four or six weeks
later still, and the shell begins to darken ; the pulp is firmer
and thicker, and the juice whitish and slightly acid. This is
called omoto, and from nuts in this stage cups and other vessels
are usually made ; the shell is yellow and hard enough to
permit of being scraped thin, or carved, but soft enough still
for this to be done with ease.
The juice, in the first stage, is practically the only drink of
the tropics, and as such, it has an importance not yet perhaps
fully realised. On many of the coral atolls there is no fresh-
water supply save what is provided by the rainfall ; and while
294 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
this caused little trouble in the olden days, now that the nuts
are reserved for copra the matter is more serious. Stagnant
rain-water used alike and from the same pool for bathing,
washing, and drinking, by sick and sound, cannot conduce to
the health of the inhabitants in the long-run.
In the next stage the pulp is used in many dishes, as in kuku ;
in some forms of pot, where it is mixed with taro and sweet
potato ; and baked, along with the juice, in its shell, when it
makes a rich and luscious pudding. The germinated nut,
filled with a sweet, spongy white growth, is likened when cooked
to 'the most delicate blancmange' ; the 'meat' of a ripe nut,
chopped up and floating in salt water, is the ordinary ' sauce
piquante' of the South Seas ; and the same, grated, and moist-
ened with its own juice and salt water, and kept perfectly air-
tight in bamboos till past the saccharine stage of fermentation,
is a more elaborate relish, with an appearance like clotted
cream or curd. The milk of the ripe nut is also good in coffee,
and is sometimes used for Communion, in place of wine, which
had its disadvantages, the whole supply being, it is said,
occasionally drunk up by the first few communicants. ' Toddy '
or ' ' Palm-wine ' is the sap or juice that exudes from the severed
green shoots, and when drunk at once is wholesome and
delicious, but with the passing of a few hours becomes ' sour
toddy,' a maddening and deadly intoxicant. And from 'the
embryo shoot of the tree, the unborn fronds that lie curled up in
a white mass about the size of a man's arm, resembling a
gigantic stick of celery, with a flavour of filberts,' the well-known
' coco-palm salad ' is made, every dish of which costs the life of
the tree from which it is prepared. It is a luxury confined to
chiefs and rich men, who can afford to destroy so valuable a
possession ; who can afford also to decorate their heads with
plumes, and their ceremonial garments with fringes, of the rcva-
reva, an exquisitely white and tender fibre extracted from the
inner pith of the same young shoots, and with the same de-
struction. For once the coco-palm is deprived of its heart or
centre of growth, it dies immediately ; and if allowed to stand
thus, ' the trunk, which when alive is encased in so hard a bark
as to be almost impervious to a bullet, moulders away and
becomes dust. This is owing to the constitution of the trunk,
NOTES 295
a mere cylinder of minute hollow reeds closely packed and very
hard ; but when exposed at the top, peculiarly fitted to convey
moisture and decay through the entire system.'
And finally, in proportion to its value, the coco-palm makes
but the smallest demand for care or cultivation ; it is hardy,
long-lived, bears without intermission, and is enormously
prolific, and only requires light and air about its stem and the
clearance of undergrowth, to permit it to come to maturity. It
will grow in any soil, however poor, though it prefers to be near
salt water ; it is found in greatest perfection on the edge of
sheltered lagoons, and on the low coral atolls where no other
tree, save the Pandanus, can exist. What part it plays in the
food of such an island can be imagined. ' The rest of the food-
supply can be summed up in the favourite jest of the archipelago
Coco-nut beefsteak. Coco-nut green, coco-nut ripe, coco-
nut germinated ; coco-nut to eat, and coco-nut to drink ;
coco-nut raw and coco-nut cooked, coco-nut hot and cold
such is the bill of fare ' (R. L. Stevenson, In the South Seas,
p. 155). It is to be suspected that the householders of these
islands must have some tropical equivalent for 'cold mutton
again ! '
55. Tahiti. The island is said to have been discovered by
Quiros in the sixteenth century. The first authentic information,
however, dates from the arrival of Wallis in the Dolphin, in
June 1767, when he christened it King George Jf/.'s Island, and
called the cluster of which Tahiti is th6 principal the Georgian
group. It was thrice visited by Cook, notably in the year 1769,
to observe the transit of Venus ; and in 1797 a band of English
missionaries settled there under the protection of the king. It
was many years, however, before the islanders accepted either
Christianity or civilisation in the sense of any settled govern-
ment ; there were long and disastrous wars, during which king
and missionaries were alike driven out and exiled upon Eimeo,
and it was not till 1815 that Pomare II. finally reinstated him-
self in authority. During the next years great endeavours
were made, not only to Christianise the natives, but also to
educate and enlighten them. Schools were everywhere
established ; tapu weakened, if not abolished ; the immoral
habits and customs of the natives held in check by a system of
296 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
punishment ; law and order, primitive perhaps, but suitable to
the conditions, were enforced and maintained. The first
printing-press was setup in 1819, and Pomare struck off the first
sheets himself; and it must always be remembered that Tahiti
owes to the missionaries her written language. . . . The
island was quiet and prosperous for a considerable time, till in
1836 fresh trouble began ; two Roman Catholic priests landed
at Tautira, without leave asked for and obtained from the
authorities. The story of their treatment at the hands of the
queen and her ministers, as the one side tells it, or of their
behaviour to the queen and her regulations according to the
other, is, for obvious reasons, difficult to relate. The result, how-
ever, was disastrous to Tahiti : the priests were for the moment
turned out, but in going they opened a door by which France
was ready and waiting to step in. England, which was only
recovering from a long period of war, was not willing to quarrel
with France over a distant island in the Pacific, in which,
moreover, she had never formally and officially interested
herself; Queen Pomare was helpless, and was forced first to
apologise, then to pay repeated indemnities, and finally to cede
all her external and most of her internal authority. In 1842
Tahiti passed under the protectorate of France, and ceased to
possess a separate existence. More recently, in 1885, the last
shred of Tahitian independence disappeared, when Pomare fifth
and last retired from even nominal sovereignty on an annual
'allowance' paid to him by the French Government.
But Tahiti has a mythological history also, and there are
many legends concerning its origin. In one of them the island
was originally a shark from Raiatea a blue shark, such as they
have since worshipped, and who, as Atua-mao, the shark-god,
had temples, sacrifices, and a priesthood in his honour ; the head
and tail, the dorsal and ventral fins, even the gills, can still be
named and pointed out. In another story, the islands of the
group were all united in a continent that the gods in their anger
broke up into pieces, Tahiti the largest ; and in still another,
Tairoa laboured so hard over creation that the sweat ran down
from his brow, filling up all the hollow places, and made the sea.
Wherefore it is salt. Tairoa, also, 'made himself into the
likeness of his thoughts,' and abode with Hina, his wife, upon
NOTES 297
the mountains ; and their children were men, and peopled
Tahiti. And these are but one or two, quoted almost at
random from the many legends of Tahitian mythology. (See
Ellis's Researches, vol. i.; Gill's Myths and Songs of the South
Pacific ; and his Historical Sketches of Savage Life in
Polynesia, etc. etc.)
56. Influenza. This seems to appear more or less regularly
in the South Seas, and is of a virulent type. It has led, indeed,
in not a few cases, to the murder of traders and missionaries,
the natives in the wilder and more savage islands retaliating in
this way upon the nearest white man, for the disease which
they suppose he has brought amongst them. There seems,
indeed, to be some little excuse for the belief, according to
Miss Gordon-Gumming : ' It is a most extraordinary fact that
on every one of the Polynesian groups the natives declare that
influenza was never known till white men came ; and now it is
one of the regular scourges of the Pacific, returning almost
every year, in a greater or less degree, but occasionally proving
very severe and fatal. It is generally preceded by westerly or
southerly winds, and passes off as the steady trade-winds set
in, bringing fine settled weather ' {A Lady's Cruise in a French
Man-of- War, ii. 72).
57. Land-crabs (Birgus latro). These remarkable creatures,
also known as the Robber, or Coco-nut crabs, are nocturnal
in habit, as fierce (if interfered with) as they are shy, and
exceedingly voracious. When hungry, if they find no food
nearer at hand, they climb the coco-nut palms and break off
the stalks of the young nuts, so that they fall to the ground ;
and in times of scarcity they will even strip the husks from the
old nuts, and, working from one of the eyes, gradually ' nip '
out a hole large enough to permit them to extract the edible
interior.
They are exceedingly numerous in most of the South Pacific
islands, and are highly valued by the natives, and even by the
whites, as an article of food. They are said to be excellent
when baked entire in their shell ; and the pendulous tail of
blue fat is looked upon as a tit-bit. This fat also, when gently
heated, melts into a valuable oil, as much as two pints being
obtained from a large specimen ; it is said to be an unfailing
298 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
specific for rheumatism, and the best lubricating medium for
guns or instruments in the South Seas. When thickened in the
sun, it is also described as making an agreeable and wholesome
substitute for butter.
58. Omua. Herman Melville's books, Omua and Typee,
present a far more reliable picture of island life than they are
generally credited with ; and his peculiarities of spelling and
romantic episodes are too often allowed to overshadow his many
valuable facts.
59. Eimeo or Moorea. This island, to which the latter name
is usually given by the natives, lies twelve or fourteen miles
to the west of Tahiti, whence it is visible ; it was named by
Wallis, in 1767, Duke of YorKs Island, and included by him
in the Georgian group, of which Tahiti is the principal. It is
very mountainous, with sharp and serrated outlines and pre-
cipitous ascents, and a magnificent belt of lower foliage ; indeed,
its beauty is so great that it has been said 'to surpass every
other in the Georgian and Society groups.' To this island,
during the wars of a hundred years ago, just before the estab-
lishment of Christianity, the missionaries were forced to retire :
here that remarkable man, Pomare II., lived in exile from 1809
to 1815 ; and here, before he returned to kingship in Tahiti,
he finally became a Christian. When he left Eimeo, his first
exercise of authority was the destruction of the temple and idol
of Oro, the national god, at Tautira.
60. Point Venus. The name given to the point of land whence
Cook observed the Transit of Venus in 1769.
61. Change of Religion. I have repeatedly found it stated
that the natives rarely change from the form of religion with
which they first become acquainted. Their loyalty in this
respect is sometimes rather surprising ; as for instance, in
Tahiti, where the Government has hitherto strongly supported
the Catholics, and has ordered the chief to build a Roman
Catholic church in every district. Yet the natives have per-
sistently remained Protestant ; with the result that in a number
of villages there is found a large and nearly empty Roman
Catholic church, beside an overcrowded French, or native,
Protestant mission.
It is, in fact, well known that a native will only attend an alien
NOTES 299
church under great pressure, and when he does so will make
it clear that he goes only as an outsider. The old Kanak who
told the priest, ' Leg he go, belly he no go, 7 was only explain-
ing to the best of his abilities that his heart and his convic-
tions were elsewhere.
62 and 71. Green and red Bananas, The cultivated varieties
of Musa, of which there are said to be over thirty in Tahiti, are
usually cut while still green, and either hung up to ripen, or
wrapped in leaves and buried for some thirty-six hours in the
earth, which hastens the ripening process though at some loss
of flavour.
The red banana, Musa uranospatha, is a wild variety. Ellis
says there are some twenty large and serviceable kinds that grow
wild in the mountains (Researches, i. 60), but he does not give
any distinctive names ; the native word fei is applied to them
all in general. They differ greatly from the cultivated sorts,
having a red skin and yellow pulp, and very marked ridges,
making them almost triangular or quadrangular in outline ;
their habit of growth is also singular, as they carry their fruit
erect in the centre of the tuft or crown of leaves at the top of
the plant. There is a legend to the effect that there was once
a Battle of the Bananas, which the Mountain Plantain won ;
wherefore it has ever since held its fruit upright in token of
victory, while the other varieties droop theirs in remembrance of
defeat.
The Mountain Banana is a very important article of native
diet, and in some places is described as their principal support ;
though it is not obtained without some difficulty, as it grows
in the less accessible parts of the mountains, and has to be
carried down by break-neck paths, slung at either end of
poles balanced across the shoulders of the bearer. Neverthe-
less, it is brought down, and in large quantities ; it is very
nutritious, and though not palatable when raw, is described,
when cooked, as a rich and agreeable vegetable. The taste for it,
however, is one that has to be acquired ; but when once the
fruit is appreciated, the liking for it is said to become so irresist-
ible that, according to the proverb, 'he who loves fei will never
leave Tahiti.'
63. Coco-nut in bamboo. This is a preparation of the meat
300 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
of a ripe coco-nut, grated and moistened with a certain propor-
tion of its own juice and salt water. It is then enclosed in an
air-tight length of bamboo and kept there till the stage of
saccharine fermentation is over. When required for use, the
upper end of the bamboo is opened, and when tapped gently
upon the leaf placed ready as a plate, a white clotted substance
drops out, which tastes somewhat like curd. This is called
loni) and is a very favourite savoury or relish.
64. Fish-hooks from nails. The islanders do not greatly
esteem the European fish-hook ; they like its sharp point, but
complain that the curve is too open and too wide. For certain
fish they will use it ; but in general they would rather have a
wrought-iron nail some three or four inches long to shape to
their own fancy, and this in spite of the labour entailed in bend-
ing and sharpening it by long rubbing on a stone. It is said
that when they first saw a nail, they conceived it to be of the
same nature as the bread-fruit rootlets of which their own hooks
were made ; and being anxious to make sure of a future supply,
they divided the first parcel of nails presented to them, carried
part to the temple as an offering to the gods and planted the
remainder in the ground, anxiously waiting for them to sprout
and grow ! (See Ellis's Researches, i. 150 ; and see also note
89 to this volume, p. 309.)
65. Barbedine. A Passiflora, probably Passiflora quadran-
gularis, which is constantly mentioned in recent books on
Tahiti, its rampant growth and huge fruit making it remarkable.
It climbs to the tops of the highest trees and hangs from them
not in single trails or festoons, but in very curtains of dense
greenery, relieved by flowers and fruit in every shade of purple
and yellow and gold. Miss Gordon-Gumming calls it the
' granadilla passion-flower,' and describes it as resembling
when ripe a golden-yellow pumpkin, with melon-like seeds
enclosed in a white jelly. These lie inside a sweet pulp about
two inches thick. It can both be eaten raw or cooked as a
vegetable, and both ways is wholesome and agreeable.
66. Tautira. This important village is situated in Taiarabu,
the peninsula attached to the south-east extremity of the larger
island. It is a place with a past that is worth recalling, for it
embodies all the story of Tahiti, its wars, its heathendom, and
its subjection to France.
NOTES 301
Here, long ago, in the days of the earliest missionaries, was
a great marae or temple in honour of Oro, elsewhere (o)Rongo,
the national god of Tahiti and the first and greatest in Poly-
nesian mythology ; for although his mother and brother were
revered as abstract deities, I cannot find it stated that they
received worship. And Oro's most venerated idol, in the eyes
of the Tahitians, was that which was preserved at the national
temple of Atehuru, swathed and wrapped from sight in price-
less mats and pieces of ancient cloth. This image Otu the
king, afterwards Pomare n., seized and carried off to Tautira,
under pretext of a supposed command from the god, but in
reality to ensure himself the prestige of the god's support and
presence in the struggle to preserve and extend his kingship.
It is recorded that, as they fled with the idol, the king sacrificed
one of his favourite servants to the god, that he might favour
their escape. . . . The priests of Atehuru, and the chiefs and
people of the district, did not see matters in the same light ;
they rose in rebellion, and for several years the bitterest of
inter-tribal fighting desolated and laid waste the beautiful island.
Such a war cannot be followed in detail, but whichever party
was successful, the result was the same : a massacre, not only
of fighting-men, but of whole villages of defenceless women and
children, and the altars of Oro reeking with human blood.
There was perhaps no cannibalism, save the memory of it
dreadfully preserved in the ceremonial of offering, when the
priest plucked out the eye of the victim and presented it to the
chief, who ' made as if to eat it,' but gave it back ; but there
was every other horror of savagery and heathendom. Tahiti
was desolated ; Otu-Pomare was an exile in Eimeo (Moorea) ;
and the missionaries, all save one, had been driven away. . .
Time passed, and at last it was Pomare's turn ; but this
time the war was not for the keeping of the idol of Oro, but to
protect the Bure-Atua, the ' Pray-to-gods,' the Christians, of
whom the first and chief was Pomare himself; it was the day
of harvest after long and despairing seed-times. Pomare was
king, and Christian king, in Tahiti ; for the first time in its
history there was no massacre of conquered women and children.
He sent out indeed a body of armed men, but this mission was
to destroy the temple of Oro at Tautira ; and he bade them,
302 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
' Go not to the little island where the women and children have
been left for security ; turn not aside to the villages or planta-
tions ; neither enter into the houses, nor destroy any of the
property you may see ; but go straight along the high road,
through all your late enemy's districts.' His directions were
obeyed ; no individual was injured, no fence broken down,
no house burned, no article of property taken.
It was thought that the people of Taiarabu, still heathen
themselves and proud of the keeping of Oro, and the priests
of Oro, would have resented the mission of Pomare's men ;
but it appears that they stood by in sullen silence while ' the
soldiers entered the house of Tahiti's god, . . . brought out the
idol, stripped him of his sacred coverings and highly valued
ornaments, and threw his body contemptuously on the ground.
It was a rude, uncarved log of aito wood, Casuarina
equisatifolta, about six feet long. The altars were then broken
down, the temples demolished, and the sacred houses of the
gods, together with their coverings, ornaments, and all belong-
ing to their worship, committed to the flames. . . . The log of
wood, called by the natives the body of Oro, . . . was carried
away, fixed up as a post in the king's kitchen, and finally riven
for fuel' (Ellis's Polynesian Researches, ii. 155, 156). The
temple of Tautira was overthrown and the worship of Oro wiped
out ; and both have been forgotten.
A little later, and there sailed in a small sloop that came
from Mangareva two men whose mission appears to have been
to convert, not the heathen, but the Protestant; though the
story of their coming, and their going for Queen Pomare
Vahine turned them out, and the price she had to pay for it in
the end, is variously told, according to the point of view of the
teller. One thing at least is certain, it was Christian Tautira,
the death-place of Oro, that was the first stage in a new struggle
and another downfall, that was to be once more memorable
as the landing-place of the two Roman Catholic priests
who were the forerunners of France (Pritchard's Polynesian
Reminiscences , p. 4).
All this has happened, and in the later days, on ' the forest
lawn which is the street of Tautira.'
67. Silk-cotton. This is obtained from a tree of the genus
NOTES 303
Bombax (natural order Malvacia), probably a variety of
Bombax ceiba. The silky and elastic fibre surrounding the
seeds is irregular in quality and too short in the staple to be
used for manufacture, but it is largely employed in stuffing
cushions and mattresses, for which purpose it is well adapted.
68. Pot of sweet potato, taro, and coco-nut. As explained
elsewhere, pot, or pot-pot, is always made of the staple, or most
plentiful, food-stuff of the locality. The material varies ; but
whether it consist of bread-fruit, oitaro, or of a mixture such as
the above, the result is a sticky paste of a yellowish colour,
called, according to its consistency and the manner of lifting it to
the mouth, 'two-' or 'three-fingered J pot. When made of 'stored
fruit ' that has partly fermented, it is sour in taste and smell ;
but when fresh fruit is used, it is very agreeable. See page 282.
69 and 48. Pearl-shell, black inside. The best variety,
'black-lip shell,' is referred to as always commanding the
highest prices in Head Hunters, A. C. Haddon, p. 85.
70. Illness at Tautira. Mrs. Stevenson is apt to make the least
of her son's illness rather than distress the relatives at home,
especially at a time of such difficult despatch of news. This
one was undoubtedly more serious than her letter conveys, as
can be seen from the following extract : ' Stevenson was placed
in the cart, and, sustained by small doses of coca, managed,
with the help of his wife and Valentine, to reach his destination
before he collapsed altogether. Being introduced at Tautira by
the gendarme, they were asked an exorbitant rent for a suitable
house, but they secured it, and there made the patient as
comfortable as possible. The next day there arrived the
Princess Moe, ex-queen of Raiatea, one of the kindest and most
charming of Tahitians. . . . She had come to the village, and
hearing that there was a white man very ill, she came over to
the house. " I feel that she saved Louis' life," writes Mrs.
Stevenson. " He was lying in a deep stupor when she first saw
him, suffering from congestion of the lungs, and in a burning
fever. . . .'" (Life of Stevenson, ii. 60).
71 to 73. The several plants referred to in these notes may
best be treated together. The ripe or green bananas are culti-
vated varieties of the Musa, of which many sorts are grown in
Tahiti ; while the wild plantain, Musa uranospatha, more fully
3 o 4 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
described in note 62, is in its cooked state, as a vegetable, a
staple article of diet. The sweet potato, Batatas edulis, was
once imported in some quantity to England, and is the potato
mentioned by Shakespeare, and other writers of his time ; and
Taro is the native name (in Tahiti and other South Sea islands),
of Caladium csculenta, the tuberous root of which, though
pungent and unwholesome in its natural state, becomes palat-
able when peeled and repeatedly washed, and then boiled and
mashed into a pulp, which is much used in the preparation of
poi and other dishes.
74. Set of Communion Plate. That Mrs. Stevenson carried
out this intention is proved by a letter written from Blair Athol,
after her return to Scotland in the following year. It is dated
8th July 1889 :--
'The Tautira Plate is finished, and has been despatched in
the s.s. Kunutaka for Tahiti via New Zealand, and I have just
written to Captain J H enclosing the bill of lading
and asking him to send it on to Tautira, paying any extra
charges and letting me know the amount. ... I put one or
two little odds and ends into the box, a good knife for Ori, a
smaller one for Pairai, pen and pencil-case for Beritane and
Nanua, needle-book and emery-case for Mrs. Ori and her
daughter, and a doll for little " G ." I do hope they will
go the long way safely.'
75. Climbing fern. Lygodium reticulatum, Schk.
76. Sensitive plant. Mimosa pudica, a tropical annual ot
rapid growth. ' It is curious to watch one's track through it in
crossing a piece of open ground. Before one is a green mass
of vegetation (about a foot high) ; on looking back one sees what
appears to be a well-worn track up to where one stands, but
after a few minutes all is the same again' (In Savage Isles
and Settled Lands, B. F. S. Baden-Powell, p. 368).
77. See note 88, p. 308.
78. Scarlet-flowered acacia. Mrs. Stevenson must have been
misinformed ; the tree answering to the above description was
not introduced by the French, and had a local name, ataz, in the
early part of last century, when Ellis wrote his Researches (i. 32).
He describes its ' light green acacia foliage and bright red
papilionaceous flowers,' and gives its name, Erythrina corallo-
NOTES 305
dendron, the coral-tree. The mistake has probably arisen
from the fact that the French call more than one conspicuously
red-flowered tree by the name of ' flamboyant ' ; the commonest
bearer of the name is Poinciana regia, a native of Madagascar,
but it is also applied to Caesalpinia pulcherrima, both of them
having been widely cultivated for their brilliant blossoms, and
introduced into several of the French possessions in the South
Seas. The trees growing in the Marquesas, alluded to by
Mrs. Stevenson, and her son (In the Smith Seas, p. 122), were
probably specimens of Caesalpinia pulcherrima ; but the de-
scription quoted above can only apply to Erythrina indica
(corallodendrori).
79. Ori. Ori a art is described by R. L. Stevenson as
' exactly like a colonel in the guards,' and elsewhere as ' a life-
guardsman in appearance ; six foot three in bare height ; deep
and broad in proportion.' Hence the name ' Colonel ' as
applied to him.
80. Mats. These are made of different fibres, that vary both
in appearance and quality ; some islands, also, excel in this
kind of work. Ponape mats are in their way celebrated, and are
described as 'thick, soft, elastic, and extraordinarily durable';
they are made of Pandanus leaves, soaked in water, beaten till
only a white fibre remains, divided into narrow strips, and woven
or plaited to the size desired. In Samoa old mats are the most
valuable property a native can have, and are scarcely to be
bought at any price whatever. In the Sandwich Islands both
matting and native cloth are superior, and very finely dyed and
decorated.
In Tahiti, the mats worn by many of the chiefs and sub-chiefs
were generally woven of the bark of the purau, or hibiscus, and
were extremely white and soft, though yellowing after exposure
to the sun. Floor-mats were made either of coco-nut or Pan-
danus leaves, the latter being more durable, and of better quality.
The making of matting, as well as of the native cloth, was entirely
in the hands of the women, and was not despised even by 'high-
chieftesses ' and queens. The ordinary size of a sleeping- or
floor-mat was about six feet wide by nine to twelve feet long ;
but ' some are twelve feet wide and as much as sixty, eighty, or
even a hundred yards in length. Mats of this size, however,
U
306 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
are only made for high chiefs, and in the preparation perhaps
the females of several districts have been employed. They are
kept rolled up and suspended in some parts of the chiefs
dwelling, more for the purpose of displaying his wealth and the
number of his dependants, than for actual use ' (Ellis, Polynesian
Researches, i. 188).
81. Hat-plaiting. For the preparation of Pandanus and
Arrowroot for this purpose, see preceding and following notes.
82. Arrowroot. This is properly a Tacca, either Tacca
pinnatifida or T. maculata, both of which are found in the
islands. The native name is pia. The growth is from a tuber,
or tuberous root ; the leaves, light green and deeply indented, rise
separately from the ground, and the central stalk, bearing the
flower, resembles in shape a reed or arrow some three or four
feet in height. It is crowned with a tuft of greenish flowers,
which are succeeded by green berries, not unlike the berries of
the potato. From the tuber, grated, pulped, washed, and dried
in the sun, arrowroot or its equivalent (for the name is applied
to an edible farina prepared from several species of plants) is
obtained ; but it is not of good enough quality for the European
market, being often discoloured, and even mouldy, through
insufficient drying. It is, however, very nutritious, and the
natives used it as follows : As they had no means of boiling it,
they mixed the meal with coco-nut milk in a large wooden
dish ; red-hot stones were dropped in and well stirred about,
till the whole mass was heated throughout and thickened into
a sort of broken white jelly, very sweet and agreeable to
the taste.
When the arrowroot fibre is required for plaiting into hats or
other articles, the hemlock-like hollow flower-stalk is steeped
in running water till the green outer fibres begin to decay. It
is then scraped with shells till the green coating is entirely
removed, and nothing is left but a ribbon that looks as if it
were made of white satin, slightly ribbed lengthwise ; this is
divided into narrow strips and plaited into the beautiful and
valuable hats on the making of which Tahitian ladies pride
themselves. Some of the plaits used are difficult and intricate,
and the material is not easy to manipulate, so that considerable
skill is necessary.
NOTES 307
This beautiful fibre is also made up into a species of arti-
ficial flowers, and woven into wreaths for the hair, or for table
decoration on days of festival ; they are also sewed on to cere-
monial tiputas, the splendidly decorated cloak or garment of
native cloth formerly worn by ' high-chiefs,' and still a
favourite form of gift or presentation in Tahiti and the
Society Islands.
83. Ori and champagne. ' The next day we gave a com-
memoration dinner to Ori, when we produced the champagne.
Ori drank his glass and announced it beyond excellence, a
drink for chiefs. " I shall drink it continually," he added,
pouring out a fresh glass. " What is the cost of it by the
bottle?" Louis told him, whereupon Ori solemnly replaced
his full glass, saying, " It is not fit that even kings should
drink a wine so expensive." It took him days to recover
from the shock' (Life of R. L. Stevenson, ii. 63).
84. Bird-cage houses. This is the term always used to
distinguish the native houses, or houses built in the original
native fashion, from modern wooden erections. The walls are
made of bamboo spaced about an inch or more apart, and
fastened or laced together with sinnet ; sometimes the bamboos
are twisted in and out so as to make a sort of pattern, but
the effect is not so good as when plainly arranged upright. It
is both light and cool, and yet a complete protection ; from the
inside it is possible to look out quite freely, though from the
outside nothing can be seen save by peering in at one of the
interstices. The roof is thatched, generally with Pandanus,
and when well done is durable and very pretty in effect.
85. 86. Raw fish. R. L. Stevenson mentions that he observed
both men and women ' perched on little surf-beat promontories
... as fast as they caught any fish, eat them, raw and living,
where they stood' (In the South Seas, p. no). The same
practice is recorded by Melville, in his Residence in the Mar-
quesas, and in Sttnshme and Surf, by Hall and Osborne,
p. 146.
87. Bathing in fresh water. It has always been the practice
of the Tahitians to prefer the river-pools for bathing in ; and
even when they have been occupied in fishing and have been
in and out of the sea-water perhaps fifty times in the day, they
308 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
always bathe themselves in fresh water before returning to
their houses. Ellis states that it is because they find the sea-
water produces an irritation which is peculiarly unpleasant
(Researches, i. 131) ; and I have seen it elsewhere observed that
the harsher and far less perfect skin of the Fijians is attributed
to their greater frequentation of salt water.
88. Himenes. Mrs. Stevenson gives no account of these
beyond their name, which to the ordinary reader suggests only
a mispronunciation of the word ' hymn,' which, indeed, it
well may be. But the himene of Tahiti is a thing by itself and
apart ; and whatever its origin, is worthy of some individual
notice. Miss Gordon-Gumming (in A Lady's Cruise on a French
Man-of- War, vol. ii.) refers to them at some length, and states
that ' the old songs were sung in the same way, before the days
of missionaries.' This I cannot find confirmed in Ellis's Poly-
nesian Researches, minute in point of detail as they are. He
refers, certainly, to the ' native ballads,' and adds : ' 1 have heard
them recited, and have often been struck with their pathos and
beauty ; . . . the children were early taught these udes, and
took great delight in their recital. . . . They were often, when
recited on public occasions, accompanied by gestures and actions
corresponding to the events described, and assumed a histrionic
character' ( i. pp. 198, 199). It will be noted, however, that he
here repeatedly uses the word ' recite,' and throughout the
chapter on music and musical instruments, and elsewhere in his
four volumes, I can find no reference to singing, much less
to such an unusual kind as the himene, as being practised
by the islanders in pre-missionary days. For the himene is
not ordinary singing, and has been described as 'a new sen-
sation in music.' They are strange unearthly choruses that are
almost impossible to follow and catch, and yet indescribably
melodious; the voices are arranged in two 'sides' that take up
and answer each other, sometimes each side being again divided
into two voices, as high and low, male and female. Sometimes
there is a conductor, more frequently there is none. The glee or
chorus starts from a short solo, which gives the keynote to the
melody; the voices lift and gather and blend together in absolute
liberty, each singing as pleases himself, yet in perfect tune and
harmony with the whole ; if there is any system deliberately
NOTES 309
followed by the singers, European hearers have not been able
to perceive it. But no one can listen to it unimpressed ; it has
been likened to ' a cathedral chime, with haunting undertones,'
and to ' a rippling, bubbling torrent of melody.' Sometimes the
solo from which it starts, and on which it is probably founded,
is a remnant of an old native song, sometimes it is a European
air, more frequently a hymn tune, but Tahitianised beyond
recognition ; and the words are as various, being both secular
and religious, old and new. Miss Gordon-Gumming says that
the himenes got up in Papeete and sung to strangers are
miserable travesties of the real thing to be heard in the heart of
the country ; and she adds that districts vary in excellence, and
that there is much emulation between them. It appears, indeed,
that the himene is, or has become, peculiar to Tahiti, but must
be heard in its proper surroundings, in church, at a village
festival, or, above all, on such an occasion as the royal progress
of the last king and queen to receive the submission of their
subjects ; and whatever its origin, whether it be the ancient
music of the islanders, or merely a happy appropriation of
foreign melodies, the result is beautiful and noteworthy.
Rose-apple. This is the jambo, or Malay-apple, Eiigenia
Mallaccensis, called by the Tahitians ahia. It resembles in
appearance a small oblong apple of a beautiful rosy-red colour,
and has a white and juicy flesh which is said to 'taste like the
scent of roses.' The Tahiti variety is a little insipid, but in the
Sandwich Islands, where it grows to greater perfection, the fruit
has a more pronounced flavour.
89. Pearl fish-hooks. These, though of ancient fashion, are still
used and highly esteemed. A strip some five or six inches long
and nearly one inch wide is cut from a pearl shell, and carefully
shaped and polished to resemble a small fish, the natural curve
of the shell aiding the likeness. On the under, or belly, side a
barb about one and a half inches in length is firmly strapped
in place with a twist of flax (romaha) ; this barb was formerly
made of tortoiseshell or bone, but is now sometimes an ordinary
steel hook. Small white feathers were fastened at either side
in imitation of fins, and to conceal the barb ; and frequently
also hairs or bristles were attached to the extremity or tail,
to increase the resemblance to a flying fish. This hook is called
3 io FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
the aviti, and is used for the larger kinds of fish, as bonito
and albicore ; there is a smaller kind, which is nearly circular
and is bent to resemble a worm. Both are employed
without bait, the glitter of the shell proving apparently irre-
sistible.
Another ancient form of fish-hook, still used by the natives, is
made from the rootlets of the bread-fruit tree, twisted, while
growing, into a suitable shape ; they are left uncut till large
enough to allow of the soft outer part being removed, when the
tough inner fibre remains for use as the hook. They are usually
three to four inches long, and about the thickness of a quill ;
but a shark-hook is twelve to fifteen inches in length, and the
root quite an inch in diameter. Great care is used in the
fastening of all these hooks, and they are considered greatly
superior to those of European manufacture. See also note 64
to this volume, p. 300.
INDEX
ACACIA, scarlet-flowered, 206, 304.
Adirondacks, ordered to, 14.
departure from, 42.
benefit from climate, 49.
Adoption, at or before birth, 106.
and decrease of population,
277.
adult, 126, 285.
Anaho Bay, 74.
Arctic Voyages (Kane's), 24, 28, 29.
Arrowroot, Tahitian, 306.
Artocarpus (bread-fruit), 274.
Atolls, description of, 147, 174.
Atuona, village of, 126.
BANANAS, cultivated, 299.
wild, or mountain, 181, 196,
227, 299.
Battle of the, 299.
Bandmann, the actor, 40.
Baptists, 162, 290.
Barbedine (Passiflora), 183, 300.
Bathing in fresh water, 212, 307.
Beards, old men's, 114, 137, 282.
Be'nitier shells, 155, 289.
Biblical parallels, 129, 283.
Bird-cage houses, 212, 307.
Bishop Dordillon, 92, 262.
Boatswain birds, 70, 260.
Bread-fruit (Artocarpus incisd), 101,
274.
Bridgeman, Laura, visit to, 36.
CANNIBALS, noted, 80, 266, 286.
Cannibalism, 261, 266, 268, 286.
Casco, the, origin of name, 102.
start on, 59.
description of, 64.
dry rot in mast of, 204.
Clam ( Tridacna gigas], 155, 289.
Climbing fern, 199, 290.
Coco-nut palm, 277.
in bamboo, 181, 283.
juice, manner of drinking,
97, 257.
salad, 136, 273.
crab (Birgns latro], 297.
Communion at Tautira, 193.
vessels for Tautira, 197, 304.
Coral -tree, the (scar let -flowered
Acacia), 304.
Cyclopean remains, 272.
DANCING, description of, 83, 267.
ornaments for, 132.
stilts used in, 267.
Darsie, Mrs., 176, 179.
Day-fly, or no-no, 286.
Deluge, traditions of, 284.
Dordillon, Bishop, 92, 262.
Dry rot in mast of Casco, 204.
EXCHANGE OF NAMES, ceremonial
219.
Erythrina corallodendron, 304.
FAKARAVA (Paumotus), 147.
illness at, 160.
Fall, traditions of the, 284.
Fei (mountain banana), 227, 299.
311
312 FROM SARANAC TO THE MARQUESAS
Fern, climbing, 199, 304.
Fish, raw, 212, 307.
Fish-hooks, native, 182, 300.
pearl, 224, 309.
Flamboyant, 206, 274.
Fresh water, bathing in, 212, 307.
' GAINS OF GODLINESS," 196.
Giant clam, 155, 289.
HAT-PLAITING, 209.
' High Places,' 97, 271.
Himene, hymeni, 216, 308.
Holakus (Mother Hubbards), 70,
259-
Honolulu, arrival at, 258.
Human hair, use of, 132, 282.
' Hunter's Home,' the, 20.
Hyde, Jekyll and, 9, n, 15.
IDOLS, native, 82, 267, 273.
Infanticide, practice of, 277.
Influenza epidemic, 169, 297.
JAMBO {Rose-apple), 221, 309.
Jekyll and Hyde, 9, n, 15.
'Josephites,' 290.
Ka-ku, preparation of, 101, 104,
275, 276.
Kanaka, origin of, 116, 282.
house, 96.
Kane's Arctic Voyages, 24, 28, 29.
LANDCKABS (Birgus latro], 170, 297.
Laura Bridgeman, visit to, 36.
MALAY-APPLE (Ross-apple], 309.
Manasquau, 45.
Mats, native, 209, 305.
Mimosa pudica (sensitive plant),
199, 304.
Moe, ex-Queen of Raiatea, 190,
234. 33-
Moorea (Eimeo), 174, 298.
Mormons, 162, 222, 290.
Mountain banana (Fez), 299.
Mulberry, paper, 275.
Mumus, 70, 259.
NO-NO FLY, 133, 286.
legend of, 286.
No-no (Morinda citrifolia), 293.
Nuka-hiva, 73, 260.
OLD MEN'S BEARDS, 114, 137, 282.
Oranges, green, 78.
Ori, 208, 305.
PA-A-A-EWA, 127.
Pae-pae, 96, 269, 271.
Pandanus, 210.
Papeete, 168.
illness at, 169.
Passiflora (Barbedine), 300.
Paumotus, the, 146, 287.
artificial soil in, 288.
Pearls, 155, 288.
Pearl-shell, 288.
black-edged, 188, 303.
Pigs, 80, 265.
Pilot-bird, 65, 259.
Pipe, reed, 105, 276.
Plaiting, hat, 209.
Poi-poi, 121, 188, 230, 282.
Point Venus, 177, 298.
Ponape, ruins in, 273.
mats, 305.
' Pulvis et Umbra,' 40.
QUEEN OF RAIATEA, ex-, 190, 234,
303-
Queen Vaekehu, 109, 115, 279.
RAIATEA, war in, 100, 274.
ex-Queen of, 190, 234, 303.
Raw fish, 212, 307.
Reed-pipe, 105, 276.
Religion, vagaries of, 290.
change of, 298.
INDEX
Rose - apple (Jambo, or
apple), 221, 309.
Malay-
SARANAC, arrival at, 16.
departure from, 42.
benefit from climate, 49.
Scarlet-flowered acacia, 206, 304.
School at Tai-o-hae, no, 280.
Sea water (as sauce), 211, 212.
bathing in, 212, 307.
Sensitive plant, 199, 304.
Silk cotton, 184, 302.
Stone, or giant, clam (Tridacna
gigas), 289.
Sweet potatoes (Batata edulis], 196,
34-
TACCA (Tahitian arrowroot), 306.
Tahiti, 168, 295.
Tai-o-hae, 106, 262, 279.
Tapa, or native cloth, 280.
Tapu, 77, 250,
Taravao, 182, 185.
Taro, 196.
Tattooing, 76, 116, 263.
Tautira, 184.
Communion at, 193.
Communion plate for, 197, 304.
illness at, 185, 303.
Tridacna gigas (stone, or giant,
clam), 289.
Tropic-bird, 260.
VAEKEHU, Queen, 109, 115, 279.
Venus, Point, 177, 298.
transit of, 295.
WHISTLERS," 291.
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12
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A MARRIAGE AT SEA.
MY DANISH SWEETHEART.
HIS ISLAND PRINCESS.
Sergeant (Adeline). THE MASTER OF
BEP.CHWOOD.
BARBARA'S MONEY.
THE YELLOW DIAMOND.
THE LOVE THAT OVERCAME.
Surtees (R. S.). HANDLEY CROSS.
MR. SPONGE'S SPORTING TOUR.
ASK MAMMA.
Walford(Mrs. L. B.). MR. SMITH.
COUSINS.
THE BABY'S GRANDMOTHER.
Wallace (General Lew). BEN-HUR.
THE FAIR GOD.
Watson (H. B. Marriott). THE ADVE
TURERS.
Weekes (A. B.). PRISONERS OF WA
Wells (H. G.). THE SEA LADY.
White (Percy). A PASSIONATE
PILGRIM.
>Q wi
MRS. M. I.
STEVENSON
SOME LETTERS
WRITTEN TO
MISS J. W. BALFOUR
METHUEN AND CO.
40
MESSRS. METHUEN'S CATALOGUE
Capes (Bernard). THE LAKE OF
WINE.
Clifford (Mrs. W. K.). A FLASH OF
SUMMER.
MRS. KEITH'S CRIME.
Corbett (Julian). A BUSINESS IN
GREAT WATERS.
Croker (Mrs. B. M.). ANGEL.
A STATE SECRET.
PEGGY OF THE BARTONS.
JOHANNA.
Dante (Alighieri). THE DIVINE
COMEDY (Cary).
Doyle (A. Conan). ROUND THE RED
LAMP.
Duncan (Sara Jeannette). A VOYAGE
OF CONSOLATION.
THOSE DELIGHTFUL AMERICANS.
Eliot (George). THE MILL ON THE
FLOSS.
Findlater (Jane H.). THE GREEN
GRAVES OF BALGOWRIE.
Gallon (Tom). RICKERBY'S FOLLY.
Gaskell (Mrs.). CRANFORD.
MARY BARTON.
NORTH AND SOUTH.
Gerard (Dorothea). HOLY MATRI-
MONY.
THE CONQUEST OF LONDON.
MADE OF MONEY.
Qissing(G). THE TOWN TRAVELLER.
THE CROWN OF LIFE.
Glanville (Ernest). THE INCA'S
TREASURE.
THE KLOOF BRIDE.
Qleig (Charles). BUNTER'S CRUISE.
Grimm (The Brothers). GRIMM'S
FAIRY TALES.
Hope (Anthony). A MAN OF MARK.
A CHANGE OF AIR.
THE CHRONICLES OF COUNT
ANTONIO.
PHROSO.
THE DOLLY DIALOGUES.
Hornung (E. W.). DEAD MEN TELL
NO TALES.
Ingraham (J. H.). THE THRONE OF
DAVID.
LeQueux(W-). THE HUNCHBACK OF
WESTMINSTER.
Levett- Yeats (S. K.). THE TRAITOR'S
WAY.
Linton (E. Lynn). THE TRUE HIS-
TORY OF JOSHUA DAVIDSON.
Lyall(Edna). DERRICK VAUGHAN.
Malet(Lucas). THE CARISSIMA.
A COUNSEL OF PERFECTION.
Mann (Mrs.). MRS. PETER HOWARD.
A LOST ESTATE.
THE CEDAR STAR.
ONE ANOTHER'S BURDENS.
Marchmont (A. W.). MISER HOAD-
LEY'S SECRET.
A MOMENT'S ERROR.
Marryat (Captain). PETER SIMPLE.
JACOB FAITHFUL.
IN
Marsh (Richard). A METAMORPH
THE TWICKENHAM PEERAGE.
THE GODDESS.
THE JOSS.
Mason (A. E. W.). CLEMENTINA.
Mathers (Helen). HONEY.
GRIFF OF GRIFFITHSCOURT
SAM'S SWEETHEART.
Meade (Mrs. L. T.). DRIFT.
Mitford (Bertram). THE SIGN OF THE
SPIDER.
Moatresor(F. F.). THE ALIEN.
Morrison (Arthur). THE HOLE
THE WALL.
Nesbit (E.) THE RED HOUSE.
Morris (W. E.). HIS GRACE.
GILES INGILBY.
THE CREDIT OF THE COUNTY.
LORD LEONARD THE LUCKLESS.
MATTHEW AUSTIN.
CLARISSA FURIOSA.
OHphant (Mrs.). THE LADY'S WALK.
SIR ROBERTS FORTUNE.
THE PRODIGALS.
THE TWO MARYS.
Oppenhelm (E. P.). MASTER OF MEN.
Parker (Gilbert). THE POMP OF THE
LAVILETTES.
WHEN VALMOND CAME TO PONTI AC.
I HE TRAIL OF THE SWORD.
Pemberton (Max). THE FOOTSTEPS ]
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MY 1
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BAR!
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MR.
ASK :
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THE
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THE
Wats.
TU
Week
Wells
White (Percy). A PASSIONATE
PILGRIM.
PR Stevenson, Margaret Isabella
5473 ( Half our)
S89Z543 From Saranac to the Marques
1903
PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE
CARDS OR aiPS FROM THIS POCKET
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