Full text of "An itinerary vvritten by Fynes Moryson gent. first in the Latine tongue, and then translated by him into English: containing his ten yeeres travell throvgh the tvvelve domjnions of Germany, Bohmerland, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke, Poland, Jtaly, Turky, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland. Diuided into III parts Volume 1"

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The Itinerary
of

Fynes Moryson

In Four Volumes

Volume I

GLASGOW
PRINTED AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS BY
ROBERT MACLEHOSE COMPANY LTD. FOR
JAMES MACLEHOSE AND SONS, PUBLISHERS
TO THE UNIVERSITY OF GLASGOW

MACMILLAN AND CO. LTD.
THE MACMILLAN CO.
THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA
SIMPKIN, HAMILTON AND CO.
MACMILLAN AND BOWES
DOUGLAS AND FOULIS

MCMVI!

LON DON
NEW YORK
TORONTO
LONDON
CAMBRIDGE
EDINBURGH

One thousand copies of this book have been printed
for sale in Great Britain and Ireland, of which one
hundred copies are on hand-made paper.

Itinerary

Containing His Ten Yeeres Travell through
the Twelve Dominions of Germany, Bohmer-
land, Sweitzerland, Netherland, Denmarke,
Poland, Italy, Turky, France, England,
Scotland Ireland

Written by
FYNES MORYSON
G.NT.

VOLUME I

Glasgow
James MacLehose and Sons
Publishers to the University
MCMVII

THE TABLE

Publishers' Note,

The Epistle Dedicatorie to the Right Honourable
William, Earle of Pembroke,

To the Reader, .

A brief Table to understand in the First part the
expenses in small coynes most commonly
spent, .

The Contents of the severall Chapters contained
in the First Booke of the First Part.

CHAP. I.

Of my journy from London (in England) to Stode, Ham-
burg, Lubecke, Luneburg: my returne to Hamburg,
and journy to Magdeburg, Leipzig, Wittenberg ; and
the neighbouring Cities (in Germany.)

CHAP. II.
Of my journy from Leipzig, to Prage, (in Bohemia) to
Nurn-berg, Augspurg, Ulme, Lindoy, Costnetz, (in
Germany) Schaphusen, Zurech, Baden, and Bazell, (in
Sweitzerland.)
V

PAGE
xi

xvii

xix

THE TABLE

The Contents of the severall Chapters--Continued.

CHAP. III.

Of my journy from Bazell to Strasburg, to Heidelberg, to
Franckfort, to Cassiles, to Brunswicke, to Luneburg, to
Hamburg, to Stode, to Breme, to Oldenburge and to
Embden, (the last Citie upon the confines of the
Empire of Germany.)

PAGE

CHAP. IIII.
Of my journy from Embden in Germany, to Leiden in
Holland, and through the united Provinces of the Low
Countries.

CHAP V.
Of my journy out of the united Provinces, by the sea
coast to Stode, and Lubeck, in Germany, of my sailing
to Denmarke, and thence to Dantzk in Prussen, and
my iourny thorow Poland, to Paduoa in Italy.

112

The Contents of the severall Chapters contained
in the Second Booke of the First Part.

CHAP, I.
Of my journy from Paduoa to Venice, to Ferrara, to Bologna,
to Ravenna, and by the shoare of the Adriatique Sea to
Ancona ; then crossing the breadth of Italy, to Rome,
seated not far from the Tirrhene Sea.

i58

CHAP. II.

Of my journy to Naples, and my returne to Rome, and of
the description of both Cities: of my journy cursory
to Sienna, Fiorenza, Pistoia, Lucca, and Pisa, and the
description of the three last Cities.
vi

zz3

THE TABLE

The Contents of the severall Chapters--Continued.

CHAP. II1.
Of my journy to Ligorno, my returne to Florence, (or
Fiorenza) and to Sienna, and the description of these
Cities. Of my journy by land to Lirigi, (in which
againe I passed by Lucca and Pisa) and by sea to
Genoa, with the description of that Citie, and my
journy by land to Pavia, to Milano, to Cremona, and
to Mantoua, with the description of the Cities, and
of my returne to Paduoa..

PAGE

314

CHAP. IIII.

Of the Sepulcher of Petrarch at Arqua ; of my journy to
Vicenza, Verona, Brescia, and Bergamo: (in Italy)
then passing the A1pes to Chur, Zurech, Solothurn,
Geneva, and (in my returne thence) to Berna (in
Sweitzerland), thence to Strasburg (in Germany,) and
to Chalon, to Paris, to Roan, and to Diepe (in France,)
and finally of my passage by sea and land to London
(in England)..

373

The Contents of the severall Chapters contained
in the Third Booke of the First Part.

CHAP. I.

Of my journy to Stode, through the united Provinces of
Netherland, and upon the sea-coast of Germany; then
to Brunswicke, and (the right way) to Nurnberg,
Augsburg, and Insprucke (in Germany), and from
thence to Venice in Italy, and so by the Mediteranean
Seas and the Ilands thereof, to Jerusalem. In which
journy, I slightly passe over the places described in my
former passage those waies.

424

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Facsimile of the Title Page of the Original Edition,
Facsimile of the Priviledge of Copyright, xxviii
The Description of Venice,
The Description of Naples, and the Territory,
The Description of Rome, drawne rudely, but so
as may serve the Reader to understand the
Situation of the Monuments, z64
The Description of Genoa, 360
The Description of Paris, 48

PUBLISHERS' NOTE

FYNES MORYSON was born in I566. He was the third
son of Thomas Moryson of Cadeby, l.incolnshire, Clerk
of the Pipe, and Member of Parliament for Great
Grimsby in x572, I584, 586, and I588- 9. His mother
Elizabeth was daughter of Thomas Moigne of Willing-
ham, Lincolnshire. 1 Of Moryson's early education
nothing is known, but 'being a student of Peterhouse
in Cambridge,' he tells us, ' and entred the eighteenth
yeere of my age, I tooke the degree of Bachelar of
Arts, and shortly after was chosen Fellow of the said
Colledge by (ueene Elizabeths mandat. Three yeers
expired from my first degree taken in the Universitie,
I commenced Master of Arts, and within a yeere after,
by the favour of the Master and Fellowes, I was chosen
to a vacant place of Priviledge to studie the Civill
Lawes. Then, as well for the ornament of this pro-
fession, as out of my innated desire to gaine experience
by travelling into forraigne parts, upon the priviledge
of our Statutes permitting two of the Society to travell,

1 It is suggested by Mr. Charles Hughes, whose life of the traveller
prefaced to 8h,kespeare's Europe (London: Sherratt & Hughes, I9o3)
is the fullest extant, that Fynes (otherwise Fines or Fiennes) was named
after Edward Fiennes de Clinton, Lord Clinton and Saye, who was
Lord-Lieutenant of Lincolnshire at the time of Moryson's birth.
xi

PUBLISHERS' NOTE

I obtained licence to that purpose of the said Master
and Fellowes in the yeere 1589, being then full 23 yeeres
old.' Before setting out, however, Moryson went to
London to follow some studies ' there better taught';
these studies, visits to his friends, and taking his M.A.
degree at Oxford, occupied him for the next two years.
On 1st May, I591 , he took ship at Leigh-on-Thames
for Germany, and, after a narrow escape from Dunkirk
pirates, safely landed at Stade. For the next four
years Moryson wandered through Germany, the Low
Countries, Switzerland, Italy, Denmark, Poland and
Austria, spending the winters at Leipzig, Leyden, Padua
and Venice. He returned to London on I3th May,
595-
From my tender youth,' writes Moryson, I had a
great desire to see lorraine Countries. And having once
begun this course I could not see any man without
emulation and a kind of vertuous envy, who had seene
more Cities, Kingdomes and Provinces, or more Courts
of Princes, Kings and Emperours, then myselfe. There-
fore having now wandred through the greatest part oi
Europe, I sighed to myselfe in silence, that the
Kingdome of Spaine was shut up from my sight, by the
long warre betweene England and Spaine .... And how-
soever now being newly returned home, . I had an
itching desire to see Jerusalem, the fountaine of Religion,
and Constantinople, of old the seate of Christian
Emperours, and now the seate of the Turkish Ottoman.'
In this frame of mind he found that his brother Henry
was preparing for this very journey, 'having put out
some foure hundred pounds, to be repaied twelve hundred
pounds upon his returne from those two cities, and to
xii

PUBLISHERS' NOTE

abstract of the history of the twelve countries which he
visited, 'but when the worke was done, and I found
the bulke thereof to swel, then I chose rather to
suppresse them, then to make my gate bigger then
my Citie.'
From I6c 9 to I67 Moryson 'wrote at leasure,
giving (like a free and unhired workeman) much time
to pleasure, to necessary affaires, and to divers and
long distractions.' One of the distractions was a visit
in 6 3 to Sir Richard Moryson, then Vice-President
of VIunster.
Nothing is known with certainty as to how Moryson
spent the remaining years of his life. He died on the
2th February, t629, ira the sixtv-fourth year of his
age.
The Itinerary now reprinted in full for the first time
since its publication was 'printed by John Beale,
dwelling in Aldersgate Street,' in 6 7- Moryson
writes that 'to save expenses I wrote the greatest part
with my owne hand, and almost all the rest with the
slow pen of my servant.' The book was first written
in Latin and then translated into English, and the
License for printing, which is reproduced here in facsimile,
granted copyright for twenty-one years for both versions :
the Latin version, however, was never printed.
In 'The Table' of the Itinerary, after the Contents
of the fourth Book of the Third Part there is given a
brief summary of twenty-five chapters beginning 'The
rest of this Worke, not as yet fully finished, treateth
of the following Heads.' The MS. of these chapters,
which were not printed by Moryson, is now ira the
Library of Corpus Christi College, Oxford, and portions
xiv

PUBLISHERS' NOTE

of it were edited by Mr. Charles Hughes and published
in 9(z3 under the title of'Shakespeare's Europe.'

In accordance with the scheme of" this series, the
edition here presented is an exact reprint of the original
edition of" 67, except that the letters i, j, u and v
have been altered to conf,orm to modern usage, and
obvious printers" errors, both of spelling and punctuation,
have been corrected. References to the pages of the
original edition are given in the margin. The original
edition did not contain an index, but a full index has
now been added, which it is hoped will make the
contents readily accessible f'or the first time.
The publishers desire to acknowledge the assistance
of Mr. C. Litton Falkiner in the choice of illustrations.

GLAsoow, September, x9c) 7.

t t.

To the Reader.
Or the First Part of this Worke, it
containes only a briefe narration of daily
. journies, with the rates of Coaches or
Horses hired, the expences for horses
and roans meat, the soyle of the
Country, the situation of Townes, and
the descriptions thereof; together with
all things there worthy to be seene: which Treatise
in some obscure places is barren and unpleasant
(espetially in the first beginning of the worke,) but
in other places I hope you will judge it more pleasant,
and in some delightfull, inducing you favorably to dis-
pence with the barrennes of the former, inserted only for
the use of unexperienced Travellers passing those waies.
Againe, you may perhaps judge the writing of my daily
expences in my journies to be needles & unprofitable, in
respect of the continuall change of prices and rates in all
Kingdoms : but they can never be more subject to change,
then the affaires of Martiall and civill Policie: In both
which, the oldest Histories serve us at this day to good
use. Thirdly and lastly, touching the First Part of this
Worke, when you read my expences in unknowne
Coynes, you may justly require the explaning of this
obscurity, by expression of the values in the English
Coynes. But I pray you to consider, that the adding of
these severall values in each daies journy, had been an
Herculean labour; for avoiding whereof, I have first set
before the First Part, a briefe Table expressing the value
of the small Coynes most commonly spent, and also have
xix

TO THE READER

expresly & particularly for each Dominion and most part
of the Provinces, set downe at large, how these values
answer the English Coynes, in a Chapter written of
purpose to satisfie the most curious in this point, namely
the fifth Chapter of the third Booke, being the last of
this First Part: in which Chapter also I have briefly
discoursed of the best means to exchange monies into
forraigne parts.
Touching the Worke in generall, I wil truly say, that
I wrote it swiftly, and yet slowly. This may seeme a
strange Riddle, and not to racke your wit with the inter-
pretation, my selfe will expound it: I wrote it swiftly,
in that my pen was ready and nothing curious, as may
appeare by the matter and stile: and I wrote it slowly,
an respect of the long time past since I viewed these
Dominions, and since I tooke this worke in hand. So as
the Worke may not unfitly bee compared to a nose-gay of
flowers, hastily snatched in many gardens, and with much
leasure, yet carelesly and negligently bound together.
The snatching is excused by the haste, necessary to
Travellers, desiring to see much in short time: And the
negligent binding, in true judgement needs no excuse,
affected curiositie in poore subjects, being like rich
imbroidery laid upon a frize jerken; so as in this case,
onely the trifling away of much time, may bee imputed
to my ignorance, dulnes or negligence, if my just excuse
be not heard: in the rendering whereof I must crave
your patience. During the life of the worthy Earle of
Devonshire, my deceased Lord, I had little or no time
to bestow in this kind: after his deth, I lost fully three
yeers labor (in which I abstracted the Histories of these
i2 Dominions thorow which I passed, with purpose to
joyne them to the Discourses of the severall Common-
wealths, for illustration and ornament: but when the
worke was done, and I found the bulke thereof to swel,
then I chose rather to suppresse them, then to make my
gate bigger then my Citie.) And for the rest of the
yeers, I wrote at leasure, giving (like a tree and unhired

TO THE READER

workeman) much time to pleasure, to necessary affaires,
and to divers and long distractions. If you consider this,
and withall remember, that the worke is first written in
Latine, then translated into English, and that in divers
Copies, no man being able by the first Copie to put so
large a worke in good fashion. And if you will please
also to take knowledge from me, that to save expences,
I wrote the greatest part with my owne hand, and almost
all the rest with the slowe pen of my servant: then I
hope the losse of time shall not be imputed unto me.
Againe, for the worke in generall, I professe not to write
it to any curious wits, who can indure nothing but
extractions and quintessences: nor yet to great States-
men, of whose reading I confesse it is unworthy: but
only unto the unexperienced, who shall desire to view
forraign kingdomes. And these may, the rather by this
direction, make better use of what they see, heare, and
reade, then my selfe did. If active men never reade it,
I shall wish them no lesse good successe in their affaires.
If contemplative men shall reade it at leasure, making
choice of the subjects fitting their humours, by the Table
of the Contents, and casting away the booke when they
are weary of reading, perhaps they may finale some
delight: only in case of distaste, I pray them remember,
to and for whom it was written. To conclude, if you
be as well affected to me, as I am to you, howsoever I
deserve no thanks, no doubt I shall be free from blame.
And so I wish you all happinesse, remaining
Yours in due respect,
FVNES MORVSON.

3'HE TABLE FOR SMALL COINS

For Sweitzerland.
Six Rappen make a Plappart or 3 Creitzers: and
Plapparts or 6o Creitzers make a silver gulden: two
finferlins make a finfer, and 5 a batz: foure angster
make a creitzer, twelve a Bemish : 6o creitzers a silver
gulden.
For the Low Countries.
Foure Orkees or Doights make a stiver : two blanks
a stiver and a halfe: six stivers a shilling: -o stivers a
gulden or three shillings foure pence, being two shillings
English : -o shillings a pound : and one hundred pound
Flemish, makes sixty pound English.
For Denmarke.
Two Danish shillings make one Lubecke; and 66
Danish shillings make one Reichs Doller.
For Poland.
Thirty Polish Grosh make a silver Gulden ; 40 a Reichs
Doller ; three Pochanels a Creitzer, seven a Grosh.
For Italy.
The silver Crowne almost five shillings English, is
given for 7 Lires of Venice; two Lires make a Justino:
_o Soldi a Lire: one Lire and 4 Soldi a Mutsenigo.
4 Bagatines a (uatrine: two Betsior 3 (uatrines or a
Susine and a halfe, make a Soldo : two (uatrines make
a Susine: three Susines a Boligneo, and z Bolignei a
Lire. Ten Giulii, or Poali, or Carlini make a silver
Crowne ; ten Baocci a Giulio or Paolo : foure (uatrines
a Baocco- eight Baelli or Creitzers make a Giulio:
twenty Soldi or Bolignei of Genoa make a Lire of Genoa,
whereof 15 make zo shillings English; and 3 of these
Lires with 5 Soldi, make a silver Crowne : seven Soldi
and an halle make a Reale : foure Soldi a Cavalotto : six
(uatrines a Soldo ; and two Deniers ot Genoa a (uat-
rme: I I 4 Soldi ot Milan make a silver Crowne :
xxiv

THE TABLE FOR SMALL COINS

Soldi a Lire: and a Lire and a halfe makes one Lire
of Genoa.

For Turkey.
The silver Crowne or Piastro worth five shillings Eng-
lish, is given heere tor 7% there for 80 or more Aspers:
A Meidine of Tripoli, is an Asper and an halfe: a
Meidine of Caiero three Aspers; and an Asper some
three farthings English.
For France.
Twelve Deniers make a Soulz: fourteene Soulz and
a halfe a Testoone: fitteene Soulz a uart d'escue:
twen.ty Soulz a Franke: sixtie Soulz a French Crowne,
or sx shillings English.

The First Volume
OF
The Itinerary of Fynes Moryson

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

chosen to a vacant place of Priviledge to studie the Civill
Lawes. Then, as well for the ornament of this profession,
as out of my innated desire to gaine experience by
travelling into forraigne parts, (to which course my Parents
had given consent some few yeers past, upon my first
declarin of my inclination to the said profession,) upon
the pri-iledge of our Statutes permitting two of the
Society to travell, I obtained licence to that purpose of
the said Master and Fellowes, in the yeere 158 9, being
then full 23 yeeres old. And presently leaving the
University, I went to London, there to follow some
studies fit to inable me in this course; and there better
[I. i. 2.] taught, and these studies, the visiting of my friends in
the Country, my going to Oxford to take the same degree
I had in Cambridge, and some oppositions upon new
deliberation made by my father and friends against my
journey, detained me longer in those parts then I purposed.
59 x. At last, in the beginning of the yeere 1591, and upon
the first day of May, I tooke ship at Liegh, distant from
London twenty eight miles by land, and thirtie six by
water, where Thames in a large bed is carried into the
Sea. Thence we set saile into the maine, and the eight
day of our sailing, the Merchants Fleet of sixteene ships
Sea Perih. being dispersed by a fogge and tempest, two Dunkerke
Pirats followed our ship, till (by Gods mercy) the fog
being cleared after some few houres, and two of our ships
upon our discharging of a great Peece drawing towards
us, the Pirates despairing left to pursue us. That they
were Pirates was apparant, since as wee for triall turned
our sayles, they likewise fitted themselves to our course,
so as wee though flying, yet prepared our selves to fight,
till God thus delivered us. The ninth day towards night,
wee fell upon an Iland called the Holy-land (vulgarly
Heiligland), and not daring to enter the River Elve before
the next morning, wee strucke all sayles, and suffered
our ship to bee tossed too and fro by the waves all that
night, (which Martinets call lying at Hull.) This Iland
hath onely one Port capeable of some sixe ships, in the

Plentiful
Oaks.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

malice to the English for the removing their trafficke to
Stode, were content silently to passe by as if we understood
them not. Hence I went out of the way to see Lubeck,
an Imperiall Citie, and one of the above named Hans-
townes, being tenne miles distant from Hamburg. Each
of us for our Coach paid twentie Lubeck shillings, and
going forth early, wee passed through a marish and sandy
plaine, and many woods of Oakes (which in these parts
are frequent as woods of Firre be in the upper part of
Germany) and having gone six miles we came to a Village
called Altslow, for the situation in a great marish or boggy
ground, where each man paid for his dinner five Lubeck
shillings and a halfe, our Dutch companions contributing
halfe that money for drinke after dinner. In the after-
noone we passed the other foure miles to Lubeck, in the
space of foure houres, and untill we came within halfe a
mile of the towne, wee passed through some thicke woods
of Oake with some faire pastures betweene them, (for the
Germans use to preserve their woods to the uttermost,
either for beautie, or because they are so huge & frequent
as they cannot be consumed.) When we came out of
the woods wee saw two faire rising Hills, and the third
upon which Lubeck was seated.
On the top of this third Hill stood the faire Church
of Saint Mary, whence there was a descent to all the gates
of the Citie, whose situation offered to our eyes a faire
prospect, and promised great magnificence in the building.
The Citie is compassed with a double wall, one of bricke
and narrow, the other of earth and broad, fastned with
thicke rowes of willowes. But on the North side and
on the South-east side there were no walles, those parts
being compassed with deepe ditches full of water. On
the South-east side the water seemeth narrow, but is so
deepe, as ships of a thousand tunne are brought up to
the Citie to lie there all winter, being first unladed at
Tremuren the Port of the City lying upon the Baltick
Sea. To this Port one mile distant from Lubeck we
came in three houres, each man paying for his Coach five
6

COMMENTS UPON LUBECK

Lubeck shillings, and foure for our dinner, and returned
backe the same night to Lubeck. The building of this
City is very beautifull, all of bricke, and it hath most
sweete walkes without the walles. The Citizens are
curious to avoid ill smels, to which end the Butchers have
a place, for killing their beasts without the walles upon
a running streame. Water is brought to every Citizens
house by pipes, and all the Brewers dwelling in one street
have each of them his iron Cock, which being turned,
the water fals into their vessels. Though the building
of this towne be of the same matter as that of the
neighbouring townes, yet it is much preferred before
them, for the beautie and uniformitie of the houses; for
the pleasant gardens, faire streets, sweete walkes without
the walles, and for the Citizens themselves, who are much
commended for civilty of manners, and the strict execution
of Justice. The poore dwell in the remote streets out
of the common passages. There is a street called the
Funff Haussgasse, that is, the street of five houses, because
in the yeere 7 8. it was all burnt excepting five houses;
since which time they have a law, that no man shall build
of timber and clay, except he divide his house from his
neighbours with a bricke wall three foot broad; and that
no man shall cover his house with any thing but tiles,
brasse, or leade. The forme of this Citie is like a lozing,
thicke in the midst and growing narrower towards the
two ends, the length whereof is from the gate called Burke
Port towards the South, to Millen Port towards the North.
Wee entr.ed the Towne by Holtz Port on the West side,
to which gate Hickster Port is opposite on the East side.
It is as long againe as broad, and two streets, Breitgasse,
that is, Broad-street, and Konnigsgasse, that is, Kings-
street, runne the whole length of the Towne, and sixe
other streets make the breadth; and if you stand in the
midst of any of these streets, you may there see both
the ends thereof. Here I paied each meale foure Lubeck
shillings, having my bed free; for a quart of Rhenish
wine five Lubeck shillings, and as much for Sack, neither

Te form of
the dry.

a.D. FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY
I59I.
doe I remember that ever I had a more pleasant abiding
in Germany, either for the sweetnes of the place, the
/`ubeck/,awes curtesie of the people, or my diet. The Citizens are
favour very courteous to all strangers, whom the Lawes extra-
strangers, ordinarily favour above the natives, so they onely abide
there for a time and be not inhabitants, neither are they
!es.se .friendly to the English, though they complaine of
injuries (so they call them) offered them by us at Sea.
This City hath many things worth the seeing. There be
tenne faire Churches, whereof one was used for an Armory
of all munitions for warre. Saint Maries Cathedrall
Church (vulgarly Unserfraw kirke) is fairer then the rest,
where there is a faire and artificiall Clocke, in the top
whereof is a picture, whereof both the eares of the head
are seene, which Painters esteeme a master worke. In
the Porch thereof are three Marble pillars, each of them
thirtie foot long of one stone, onely one of them is peeced
for one foot. But the Image of the Virgin Mary in this
Church, and of Christ crucified in Burk Kirke are thought
workes of singular art; for which they say a Spanish
Merchant offered a masse of money. I will confesse
truely, that my selfe beholding the Virgins statua all of
stone, did thinke it had beene covered with a gowne of
white buffin, and that being altogether unskilfull in the
graving Art, yet I much admired the workmanship.
A notable Without Millen Port there is a Conduit of water,
Conu#. which serves all the Towne, the more notable because
it was the first of that kinde, which since hath
beene dispersed to London and other places. On al
sides out of the towne there be sweet walks, especi-
[I. i. 5-] ally towards Hierusalem (so they call the Passion of
Christ graven in divers pillars) where also is a pleasant
grove, under the shade whereof Rope-makers and like
Artificers use to worke. The Canons of the Cathedrall
Church have great priviledges, and as it were an absolute
power over themselves, and of old they had a gate of the
City free to themselves to goe in or out at pleasure; till
the Citizens finding how dangerous it was to the main-
8

COMMENTS UPON LUNEBURG

I59I.

taining of their freedome from any subjection, upon a
good opportunitie when the Emperour came thither, did
of set purpose lead him into the City by that gate, where
filling on their knees they besought him that it might
be bricked up, and never more opened, he being the last
man that ever should enter thereat.
From Lubeck we tooke our journey to Luneburg, being
tenne miles distant, and the first night we lodged in a
Village called Millen, where a famous Jester Oulenspiegell Monnment
(whom we call Owly-glasse) hath a Monument erected: to a Jester.
hee died in the yeere I35o. and the stone covering him
is compassed with a grate, least it should bee broken and
carried away peece-meale by Passengers, which they say
hath once already been done by the Germanes. The
Towns-men yeerely keepe a feast for his memory, and
yet shew the apparell he was wont to weare. This
Country is barren and sandy ground; full of thicke
Woods of Oakes : by the way in Kasborough Castle, they
said that a Duke of inferior Saxony lay impriso.ned by
the Emperours command, his brother governing the
Dukedome, charged with great debts by his prodigality;
but his Villages hereabouts were possessed by the Ham-
burgers and Lubeckers by right of morgae. We passed
the Elve twice, the Coach-man paying or himselfe his
Coach, and each one of us a Lubeck shilling, and beyond
the Elve the round was somewhat more fertile. At
Millen I paid for my supper foure Lubeck shillings and
a halfe.
The next day we came to Luneburg, which by the I, unebu,g.
Citizens for defence of their libertie was strongly fortified,
for it is one of the free Imperiall Cities; but the Duke
of Luneburg challengeth a superiority over it. The
walles built of earth are high and broad and the ditches
very deepe. The building is very faire, especially that
of the Senate house, and almost all the houses are of
bricke. They have two large market places, and the
streets are broad, but very filthy and full of ill smels.
The City it selfe being almost of a round forme is seated

//OW Lune-
burg
named.

At alt water
Fountaiu.

[I. i. 6.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

in a Valley, but hath Mountaines neere it on the West
side, and further off on the East ; An high Mountaine
called Kalkberg hangeth over it on the North side; in
the top whereof is a strong Castle, which the Citizens
had got into their hands some threescore yeres before my
being there. Not far from the City is a Monestary called
Luna, whereof some say the Towne was named, others
say it had the name of the River run.ning by it now called
Elvenau, of eleven Rivers runmng into it; which
Histories testifie to have beene called Luna of old. But
others prove both the River and the Towne to have had
their names of the Idol Isis, bearing two homes of the
Moone, which was kept in the Castle upon Kalkberg, and
worshipped by the people. Among the things best
deserving to be seen is the Fountaine of Salt, and the
house wherein salt is boyled, over the gate whereof these
verses are written.
Ecce salinarum dulcissima dona coquuntur.
Gratuita summi de bonitate Dei:
Mons, Pons, Fons, tua dona Deus, da pectore crescat,
In nostro pietas, nec minuatur Amor.
Behold of finest salt this Fount doth store afford,
By the Almighties grace and free gift from above:
The Mountaine, Bridge and Fountaine are thy gifts O
Lord,
For which let us increase in pietie and love.
To all the poore round about, and to all the Citizens
for their private use salt water is freely given: and they
say this Fountaine once lost his vertue when they denied
to give water to the poore. Every one gives the Porter
a small reward when he comes in, not when he goes out,
as otherwhere is used; for this is proper to the Germanes
that they will be paied ere they begin to worke, as if they
had done. The profit of this salt Fountaine is divided
into divers parts; some to the City, some to the Duke
of Luneberg, (who howsoever he be so called, yet hath
no power over the City but onely over the Countrey;)
Io

COMMENTS UPON LUNEBURG

some belongs to the Monastary, and divers Earles have
their parts, (whereof some boyle not the salt in their owne
name, but set it out to others :) There be fifty two roomes,
and in each of them eight leaden pannes, in which eight
tunnes of salt are daily boyled, and each tunne is worth
eight Flemmish shillings. In the said Monastery within
the Towne, they shew a table of gold, which Henry
Leo Duke of Saxony tooke from Milan and placed
here, and it is fastned to the Altar, being more then
an ell and halle long, and about three quarters broad,
and little or nothing thicker then a French crowne.
They shew also foure Crosses of pure gold, which
they said a certaine Qeene once tooke from them,
but presently fell lunatike, neither could be cured untill
she had restored them. In the open streets some Monu-
ments are set on the walles, in honour of certaine Citizens,
who died in a nights tumult, when the Duke hoped to
surprize the City. I said that the Senate house is stately
built, in which they shew to strangers many vessels of
gold and silver, of a great value and quantity for a City
of that quality. From Luneburg I returned to Hamburg,
whither I and my company might have had a Coach for
4. Dollors. But we misliking the price hired a waggon
for three Lubeck shillings each person to Wentzon, three
miles distant from Luneburg. Here the Duke of Lune-
bergs territory ends, to whom each man paid a Lubeck
shilling for tribute, my selfe onely excepted, who had
that priviledge because I went t6 study in the Universities.
Here each man paled two Lubeck shillings for a Waggon
to the Elve side, being one mile, and the same day by
water wee passed other three miles to Hamburg, not with-
out great noysomnesse from some base people in the boat,
for which passage we paied each man three Lubeck shillings.
Let me admonish the Reader, that if when we tooke boat
we had onely crossed the Elve, we might have hired a
Waggon from Tolspecker a Village to Hamburg (being
three miles) for two Dollors amongst six persons. Being
at Hamburg and purposing to goe up into Misen,. because
II

.,4 Table

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

I had not the language, I compounded with a Merchant
to carry mee in his Coach, and beare my charges to Leipzig
for tenne gold Guldens.
The first day having broke our faste at Hamburg, we
passed seaven miles over the Heath of Luneburg, and
lodged in a Village. In our way we passed many Villages
of poore base houses, and some pleasant groves; but all
the Countrey was barren, yet yeelded corne in some places,
though in no plenty. The second day we came to a
little City Corneiler, through a Countrey as barren as
the former, and towards our journeis end wee passed a
thicke wood of a mile long. The third day we went
Magden[urg. seven miles to Magdenburg, which is counted sixe and
twenty miles from Hamburg, and this day we passed a
more fertile Countrey, and more wooddy; and they
shewed me by the way an Hill called Bockesberg, famous
with many ridiculous fables of ,Vitches yeerely meeting
in that place. This City of old called Parthenopolis, of
Venus Parthenea, is now called Magdenburg, that is, the
City of Virgins, & for an Inland City is very faire, and
the Germans speake much of the t3rtification, because
d,trongcity. Mauricius Elector of Saxony besieged it a whole yeere
with the Emperour Charles the fifth his Army, yet tooke
it not. Howbeit I thinke that not so much to bee
attributed to the strength of the City, as to the distracted
mind of the besieger, who in the meane time sollicited
the French King to joyne with the Dutch Princes to free
Germanie from the Emperours tyranny, and the French
Army being once on foot, himselfe raised forces against
the Emperour. The forme of this City is like a Moone
increasing, the Bishopricke thereof is rich, and the
Margrave of Brandeburg his eldest sonne did then possesse
it, together with the City and territory, by the title of
Administrator, in which sort he also held the Bishopricke
of Hall, and he lay then at Wormested, a Castle not
farre of. In the market place there is a Statua erected
to the Emperour Otho the Great, founder of that City,
and Munster writes of another statua erected to Rowland,

COMMENTS UPON MAGDEBURG

AoDo
I59I.

which I remember not to have seene. In the Senate-
house, they shewed a singular picture, made by one Lucas
a famous Painter, dead some thirty yeeres before; where
also is the picture of that monstrous German, with all [I. i. 7-]
the dimensions of his body, who not long before was led
about the world to be shewed for a wonder. This man
I had not seene, but in this picture I could scarce reach
the crowne of his head with the point of my rapier, and German
many of good credit told me, that they had seene this Gians.
roans sister halle an ell higher then he. In the Church
that lies neere the market place, there is a Font of great
worth, and a Lute painted with great Art : the Cathedrall
Church of Saint Maurice was built by Otho the Great,
very sumptuously, where his wife lies buried in the yeere
948- and the inscription is; that shee was daughter to
Edmund King of England. There they shew one of
the three vessels in which our Saviour Christ turned water
into wine at Cana in Galile. There be in all ten Churches,
but the above named are the fairest. Hence we went
foureteene miles to Leipzig, being a day and a halfes
OUrney through fruitfull corne fields, and a Countrey
11 of rich Villages, the Merchant with whom I went,
bearing my charges: from Hamburg I might have hired Charges from
a Coach to Leipzig for sixe persons (those of Nurnburg Hamburg.
bearing eight) for 24. dollers, and if a man goe thence
to Luneburg, he may easily light on a Coach of returne
at a lesse rate, so that in respect of the cheapnes of
victuals in these parts, no doubt I gave the Merchant too
much for my charges in this journey.
Leipzig is seated in a plaine of most fruitfull corne Leipzig.
ground, and full of rich Villages, in a Countrey called
Misen, subject to the Elector Duke of Saxony: and the
Countrey lying open to the eye in a most ample prospect,
onely one wood can be seene in this large plaine. The
streets are faire, the market place large and stately, and
such are the chiefe houses, built of free stone foure roofes
high: there is a convenient conduit of water in the
Suburbs, lying towards Prage, the ditch is dry, the wals
3

COMMENTS UPON SVITTENBERG

meet nothing at Witteberg, but whores, students, and
swine, to which purpose they have these two Verses:
Ni Witeberga sues, ni plurima scorta teneret,
Ni pubem Phcebi, queso quid esset ibi ?
Had Witeberg no swine, if no whores were,
Nor Phoebus traine, I pray you what is there ?
Whence may be gathered that the Citizens have small
trafficke, living only upon the Schollers, and that the streets [I. i. 8.]
must needs be filthy. In the study of Doctor Wisin-
bechius this inscription is in Latine;
Here stood the bed in which Luther gently died.
See how much they attribute to Luther, for this is
not the place where hee died, neither was there any bed,
yet suffer they not the least memory of him to be blotted
out. Luther was borne at Isleb in the yere I483, & Martin
certainly died there in the house of Count Mansfield, Luther.
where after supper the seventeenth of February he fell
into his usuall sickenesse, namely the stopping of humors
in the Orifice of his belly, and died thereupon at five of
the clocke in the morning, the eighteenth of February,
in the yeere x546. the said Count and his Countesse and
many other being present, and receiving great comfort
from his last exhortations: yet from his sudden death
the malitious Jesuits tooke occasion to slander him, as Jesuit
if he died drunken; that by aspersions on his life and slanders.
death, they might slander the reformation of Religion,
which he first began. These men (after their manner)
being to conjure an uncleane spirit out of a man in Prage,
gave out that he was free from this spirit for the time
that Luther died, and that when hee returned, they
examined him where hee had beene that time, and the
spirit should answere that hee had attended Luther.
Phillip Melancthon, borne in the yeere i497. died 56o. Phillip
and both these famous men were buried, and have their Melancthon.
Monuments in the Dukes Church at Witteberg, which
is said to be like that of Hieru_salem, and in that both
5

I59I.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Charger at
14zi tte berg.

of them are round, I will not deny it, but I dare say
they differ in this, that Hierusalem Church hath the
Chauncell in the middest with Allies to goe round about
it, whereas the Chancell of this Church is at the East end
of it. The Wittebergers tell many things of Luther
which seeme fabulous, 8: among other things they shew
an aspersion of inke, cast by the Divell when he tempted
Luther, upon the wall in S. Augustines Colledge. Besides,
DoctorFaustus they shew a house wherein Doctor Faustus a famous
a.famous conjurer dwelt. They say that this Doctor lived there
conjurer, about the yeere r Soo. and had a tree all blasted and
burnt in the adjoyning Wood, where hee practised his
Magick Art, and that hee died, or rather was fetched by
the Divell, in a Village neere the Towne. I did see the
tree so burnt; but walking at leasure through all the
Villages adjoyning, I could never heare any memory of
his end. Not farre from the City there is a mountaine
called the Mount of Apollo, which then, as of old,
abounded with medicinable herbes. In a Village neere
the Towne there be yet many tokens that the Emperour
Charles the fifth encamped there. I lived at Witteberg
the rest of this summer, where I paled a Gulden weekely
for my diet and beere, which they account apart, and for
my chamber after the rate of tenne Guldens by the yeare.
I heare that since all things are dearer ; the Schollers using
to pay each weeke a Dollor for their diet, and a Dollor
for chamber and washing. Hence I tooke my journey
to Friburge that I might see the funerall of Christianus
the Elector. Three of us hired a Coach all this journey
for a Dollor each day, with condition that we should pay
for the meat of the horses and of the coach-man, which
cost as much more. And this we paled because we had
freedome to leave the coach at our pleasure, though we
returned with it to Leipzig, to which if we would have
tied our selves, we might have had the coach for halle
a Dollor a day. The first day wee went sixe miles to
Torge, through sandy fields yeelding corne, and we dined
at Belgar a Village, where each man paled five grosh for
i6

COMMENTS UPON TORGAU
59 .

his dinner, and by the way they shewed us a Village called
Itzan, where Luther made his first Sermons of reformation.
Torge is a faire City of Misen, of a round forme, Torg.
falling each way from a mountaine, and seated on the
West side of Elve. It hath a stately Castle belonging
to the Elector Duke of Saxony, who is Lord of Leipzig,
Witteberg, and all the Cities we shall passe in this journey.
This Castle is washed with the River Elve, and was built
by John Fredricke Elector, in the yeere I535. It hath
a winding way or plaine staire, by which a horse may easily
goe to the top of the Castle, the passage being so plaine
as the ascent can scarcely be discerned. The Hall,
Chambers and Galleries of this Castle, are very faire and
beautifull, and adorned with artificiall pictures, among
which one of a boy presenting flowers, is fairer then the
rest. Also there is a picture on the wall, of one Laurence
Weydenberg a Sweitzer, made in the twentieth yeere of
his age, in the yeere i53i , shewing that he was nine foot
high. In the Church there is a Monument of Katherine
a Nunne, which died I552. and was wife unto Luther.
The Village Milburg is within a mile of this City in the
way to Dresden, where the Elector Fredericke was taken
prisoner by Charles the fifth, in the Protestants warre.
The lake neere the City is a mile in circuit, for the fishing
whereof, the Citizens pay 500. guldens yeerely to the
Elector of Saxony, and they fish it once in three yeeres,
and sell the fish for some 5000. guldens. The beere of
Torge is much esteemed through all Misen, whereof they
sell such quantity abroad, as ten water-mils besides wind-
mils, scarcely serve the towne for this purpose.
From Torge we went six miles to Misen in our Coach Misen.
hired as aforesaid, and we dined each man for five grosh
in the village Starres, and wee passed through goodly
corne hils, and faire woods of firre and birtch. The City
Misen is round in forme, and almost all the houses are
built on the falling sides of Mountaines, which compassing
all the City, open towards the East, where Elve runneth
by. Duke Fredericke surnamed The wise, and Duke
M. 7 B

[I. i. 9-]

Charges fir
Fishing.

Dresden.

Good watch
kept.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

George, surnamed papisticall, are buried in the Cathedrall
Church. Here I paid six grosh every meale. The City
is subject to the Duke of Saxony, having the same name
with the whole Countrey in which it lieth. Hence wee
went three miles to Dresden in a Coach hired as aforesaid,
and passed through sandy and stony Hils, some fruitfull
vallies of corne, and two Woods of firre, whereof there
bee many neere Dresden, whither being come, I paled
sixe grosh for my dinner.
This City of Dresden is very faire and strongly fortified,
in which the Elector of Saxony keepes his Court, having
beene forty yeeres past onely a village. When the first
stone of the wals was laid, there were hidden a silver cup
guilded, a Booke of the Lawes, another of the coynes,
and three glasses filled with wine, the Ceremonies being
performed with all kind of Musicke and solemnity. The
like Ceremony was used when they laid the first stone
of the stable. The City is of a round forme, seated in
a Plaine, running betweene two Mountaines, but some-
what distant, and the houses are faire, built of free stone,
foure or five roofes high, whereof the highest roofe, after
the Italian fashion, is little raised in steepnesse, so that
the tops of the houses appeare not over the walles,
excepting the Electors Castle built betwixt the North and
West side, and the Church Tower built betweene the
West and East side. In this Tower the watchmen dwell,
who in the day time give notice by Flags hung out, what
number of foot or horse are comming towards the Towne.
To which Tower they ascend by two hundred seventy
staires, and in the top two Demiculverins are planted.
Wee entred on the East side through old Dresden, being
walled about, and so passed the Elve, compassing the
walles of new Dresden on the East side by a Bridge of
stone having seventeene arches, under which halle the
ground is not covered with water, except it be with a
floud. Upon the Bridge we passed three gates, and at
the end entred the City by the fourth ; where the garrison
Souldiers write the names of those that come in, and lead
I8

COMMENTS UPON DRESDEN

them to the Innes, where the Hostes againe take their
names. The City hath but two little Suburbs. The
Citizens were then as busie as Bees in fortifying the
City, which the Elector then made very strong. The
ground riseth on all sides towards the Towne, and the
new City hath foure Gates; Welsh-thore, Siegeld-thore,
New-thore, and Salomons-thore: and is compassed with
two walles, betweene which round about there is a garden,
from which men may ascend or descend to it at each Gate.
Over the outward wall there is a covered or close Gallery,
private to the Elector, who therein may compasse the
Towne unseene. Hee hath used the best wits of Germany
and Italy in this fortification, wherein he hath spared no
cost. The walles are high and broad of earth, whose
foundation is of stone, and they are on all sides furnished
with great Artillery, yea in that time of peace the streets
were shut with iron chaines, at eating times, and all night.
The Electors stable is by much the fairest that ever I
saw, which I will briefly describe. In the first Court
there is a Horse-bath, into which they may bring as much
or little water as they list, and it hath 22. pillars, in each
whereof divers Armes of the Duke are graven, according
to the divers families whose Armes he gives. The same
Court serves for a Tilting-yard, and all exercises of
Horse-manship : and there is also the Horse-leaches shop,
so well furnished as if it belonged to a rich Apothecary.
The building of the stable is f3ure square, but the side
towards the Dukes Pallace is all taken up with two gates
and a little Court yard, which takes up halle this side,
and round about the same are little cubboords peculiar
to the horsemen, in which they dispose all the furniture
fit for riding. The other three sides of the quadrangle,
contained some I36. choise and rare Horses, having onely
two other gates leading into the Cities market place,
opposite to those gates towards the Court. These horses
are all of lorraine Countries, for there is another stable
for Dutch horses, and among these chiefe horses, one
named Michael Schatz (that is Michaell the Treasure)
I9

The dry gates.

[I. i. o.]
The Elertor's
stable.

Horses.

perwading
temperance.

^.D. FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY
I59I.
was said to be of wonderful1 swiftnesse: before each
horses nose was a glasse window, with a curtaine of
Richfurni- greene cloth to be drawne at pleasure; each horse was
turefor covered with a red mantle, the racke was of iron, the
the hore.
manger of copper: at the buttocke of each horse was
a pillar of wood which had a brasen shield, where by the
turning of a pipe he was watered; and in this piller was
a cubboord to lay up the horses combe and like necessaries,
and above the backe of each horse hung his bridle and
saddle, so as the horses ,night as it were in a moment be
furnished. Above this stable is a gallery on one side,
adorned with the statuaes of horses & their riders, with
their complete Armours fifty in number, besides many
Armours lying by the wals. On the other side is a gallery
having forty like statuaes, & thirty six sledges which
they use in Misen, not only to journey in time of snow,
but also for festival1 pompes. For in those Cities,
especially at Shrove-tide, and when much snow falleth,
Sledging at they use to sit upon sledges drawne with a horse furnished
S,,-we-tide. with many bels, at the foote of which sledge they many
times place their Mistresses, and if in running or sudden
.turning, the rider or his Mistresse slip, or take a fall, it
as held a great disgrace to the rider. Some of these
sledges are very sumptuous, as of unpurified silver as it
comes from the Mines, others are fairely covered with
velvet and like stuffes. Above the forepart of the stable
towards the market place, are the chambers wherein the
Elector feasts with Ambassadors. In the window of the
first chamber or stove, being a bay window towards the
street, is a round table of marble, with many inscriptions
perswading temperance, such as are these,
Aut nulla Ebrietas, aut tanta sit ut tibi curas
Demat
Be not drunken in youth or age,
Or no more then may cares asswage.
Againe, Plures crapula quam ensis.
Gluttony kils more then the sword.
o

COMMENTS UPON DRESDEN

A.D.
I59I.

Yet I dare say, that notwithstanding all these good
precepts, few or none ever rose (or rather were not carried
as unable to goe) from that table. Twelve little marble
chaires belong to this table, and the pavement of the
roome is marble, and close by the table there is a Rocke 4 Rocke
curiously carved with images of fishes and creeping things, curiously
carved.
This Rocke putteth forth many sharpe pinacles of stone,
upon which the vessels of gold and silver are set forth
at the feasts, and when the drinking is at hottest, the
statua of a horseman by worke of great Art, comes out
of the Rocke, and presents each stranger with a huge
boule of wine, which he must drinke off for his welcome,
without expecting that any should pledg him. In the
next chamber belonging to this stove, is a bedstead of
marble, and both have hangings of gold lether. There
is another chamber and another stove like these, and above
them in the up.permost loft, there be many little roomes,
whereof one s furnished with speares, another with
saddles (& among them I remember one which in the 4 strange
pummell bore a gilded head, with eyes continually moving, saddle.
& in the hinder part had a clocke) the rest are furnished
with swords, shields, helmets, and fethers. Among the
swords, every Prince hath his owne, which the successours
use not to weare, and there is one belonging to the Elector-
ship, when he exerciseth his office as Marshal of the [I. i. .]
Empire. There was another Sword, having in the hilt
two little Pistols. Here I saw laid up an Iron chaine,
in which they said, that Duke Henry the Father of
Maurice the first Elector of this Family, should have
beene hanged in the Low Countries, who escaping,
brought the same with him, and laid it up here for
memory. After the Funerall of Christianus, returning
from Friburg to this Towne, I found onely fifteene of
those choice Horses in the stable, all the rest having beene
given to Princes comming to the Funerall.
The Dukes Pallace in Dresden was built by Mauricius,
part of the City wals and the gates were built by Augustus,
who did also lay the foundation of this Stable. But

I59I.

T,e 4 rmory.

Bodt$
driven by
Battledores.

Friburg.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Christianus the Elector perfected the wals of the City,
with the close gallery over them, and built this famous
stable ; setting this inscription upon the wals in Latine.
Christianus Duke of Saxony, Heire to Augustus the
Elector of happy memory, and imitator of his vertues,
cused this Stable to be built, and the Yard adjoyning
to be fitted for Tilting and military exercises : the present
age, &c.
The Armory at Dresden is no lesse worth the noting,
wherein were Armes and all kind of munition for seventy
thousand men, but of late it had been somewhat emptied
by an expedition into France, undertaken by the Duke
at the solicitation of the Count of Turin, Ambassadour
for Henry the fourth King of France.
The Duke was at great charge in keeping Garison
Souldiers at Dresden, and Officers, as well for the stable
as the Armory. In these parts and no where else in
Germany, they use boats of a hollow tree, driven not
by Oares, but by battledores, whereof I saw many upon
the Elve, as likewise water mils swimming upon boates,
and removed from place to place, the like whereof was
since made at London by a Dutchman, but became
unprofitable by the ebbing and flowing of Thames. At
Dresden I paid seven grosh a meale.
Hence in our Coach hired, as aforesaid, we passed foure
miles to Friburg, through fruitful Hils and Mountaines
of corne, but few or no Woods: and here we paid each
man sixe grosh a meale. This City is of a round forme,
compassed of all sides with Mountaines, having many
Vauts, or Caves under it; by which the Citizens enter
and goe out of the City by night, to worke in the silver
Mines. Yet hath the City two walles, and two ditches,
but altogether dry. It hath five gates, and foure Churches,
among which Sai,t Peters Church is the fairest. The
Elector hath his Castle in the City: and in the Church
(as I remember of Saint Peter) wherein the Dukes use
to be buried ; Mauricius hath a very faire monument
of blacke Marble, raised in three piles, whereof each

COMMENTS UPON FREIBERG

is decked with divers statuaes of white Marble and
Alablaster; whereof two belong to Mauricius, the one
in posture of praying, the other armed, and receiving a
deadly wound. Two Monuments were begun, but not
then perfected, for Augustus and Christianus. The
territory of Friburg abounds with silver Mines; wherof
some are five hundred fadomes deepe, some seven hundred,
and some nine hundred; and after each thirty fadomes,
the earth is supported with great beames of timber, lest
it should fall; and from each of these buildings, winding
staires of wood are made, to descend to the bottome.
The Citizens live of these Mines, and grow rich thereby,
whereof the Elector hath his proper part, and useth to
buy the parts of the Citizens. The worke-men use
burning Lampes under the earth both day and night, and
use to worke as well by night as by day : and they report,
that comming neere the purest veins of silver, they are
often troubled with evill spirits. These worke-men goe
out to the Mines by night, through the Caves under the
City, and being called backe from worke by the sound
of a bell, they come in the same way. The water which
the worke-men use, springeth in a mountain an arrow
shot from the Town, whence falling to a lower mountaine,
it is convaied by hollow trees to fall upon the wheeles of
the mils, so as a little quantity thereof driveth them.
These Mils draw the water up out of the Mines, for the
depth of forty fadome, whence it runneth in pipes towards
the City. When they try & purify the silver, first with
water they wash away the red earth, then they beat the
mettall with a hand hammer, and thus broken, they cast
it into the fire, which they make in the open ayre, lest
the workmen should be stifled with the fume of the
brimstone. Then they melt the mettall six times, by a
fire made of whole trees, in a little house adjoyning.
Then in another house they sever the mettall from the
earth with a slve. Then againe they beat the mettall
with an hammer driven by a Mill ; and thus beaten, they
wash it upon three clothes hanging slopewise, and the
3

The Silver
Mines.

How they try
the silver.

[I. i. , z.]

COMMENTS UPON LEIPZIG

AoDo
I59I.

wee dined, and thence three miles to Leipzig, all through
plaine arid fruitfull corne fields. I spent this winter at
Leipzig, that I might there learne to speake the Dutch
toung (the Grammer wherof I had read at Witteberg,)
because the Misen speech was held the purest of all other
parts in Germany. Heere each Student useth to pay for Charges fat"
Students.
his diet a Gulden weekly, besides beere, for which every
man pales according to his drinking; some lesse, some
more, most beyond measure. For the Citizens have no
beere in their houses but one kind, which is very small,
and buy the better kindes (as that of Torge, which the
richer sort usually drinke) from a publike house, where
it is sold by small measures, to the profit of the Senate.
Besides, the !Schollers pay severally for their bed and
chamber. My selfe lodged with a rich Citizen, and for
diet, bed, and chamber, paled weekly a Dollar and a
halle.

Chap. II.
Of my journey from Leipzig to Prage (in Bo-
hemia) to Nurnberg, Augspurg, Ulna, Lyndaw,
Costnetz (in Germany) Schaphusen, Zurech,
Baden, and Bazell (in Sweitzerland).
- -.,1 Eing to take my journey to Prage, in the
' end of the yeere i59I , (after the English
accomat, who begin the yeere upon the
twenty five of March,) I returned ag-aine
to Dresden; from whence I wrote this
Letter concerning my journey, to a friend
. lying at Leipzig.
Honest M. Know that after I parted from you at Torg,
by good hap, and beside my expectation, I light upon
a Coach going to Dresden, with which good hap, while
I was affected, and hasted to hire a place therein, I had
forgot to pay for my Coach for the day before. But when
we were ready to go, remembring my errour, and
intreating my consorts to stay a while for mee, I ranne
5

[I. i. 3.]

I59I.

From Dresden
to Prague.

Prage.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

from the river to the Inne, I light upon this commodity
of a Coach, which hath freed me from the annoyance of
the water and Marriners. Imbrace an my name our
common friend G. B. and of nay loving hosts family, let
not a whelpe goe unsaluted. Farewell honest M. and
returne me love for love: from Dresden the seventh
of March, 159I.
My selfe aJad foure consorts hired a Coach for 14.
dollers from Dresden to Prage. The first day we went
three miles to Gottleben a Village, where we paid five
Bohemian groshe, that is sixe white groshe each man for
his dinner. Halle the way was on the West side of the
River Elve, in a fertile plaine, then we passed the Elve,
a.nd travelled through mountaines, yet fertile, and a
boggy wood. After dinner we went two miles, to a
Village, where we lodged, through sto.ny mountaines
without any wood, and in the mid way there was a
woodden pillar, which divided the territory of the Saxon
Elector fro-m the kingdome of Bohemia.
The second day we went two miles through stony
Mountains, bearing not one tree, to Ansig a little City,
where we paid for our breakefast foure Bohemian gro.shes.
The same day we passed three miles in a straight between
rocks, lying upon the Elve, & two short miles through
fruitfull corn fields, to Wedin lying upon the river Aegra,
which runs a little below into the Elve, but was here at
this time so deep, by a floud or melting of snow, as our
Coach in comming to the bridge of Wedin by the baak
side, tooke water. The third day we passed z miles to
a village called Welber or Welberg, through fruitfull hil.s
of corn without any wood, & there each man paid 5
Bohemian rosh for his dinner.
In the atternoone wee went three miles, for the most
part through fruitfull hils of cor.ne, the rest through
Rockes and MountaJnes planted with Vines, and so came
to Prage, through which the River Molda runneth, but is
not navigable. On the West side of Molda is the
Emperours Castle, seated on a most high Moiantaine, in
28

I59I.

4 monument
reverenced.

anlou$
English
llcumht.

The City
.drmes.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

14I 9. Ladislaus in the yeere I4ar 9. Ferdinand the fourth,
in the yeere 1564. Maximillian the second, in the yeere
1577. (all being Arch-dukes of Austria, and Emperours)
and George Pogiebrachius a Bohemian, and King of
Bohemia. To all these is one Monument erected, and
that of small beauty: In the same Church is the Monu-
ment of a Bishop, who being the Q_qeenes Confessour,
was cast into Molda because he would not reveale her
confession to her husband Wenceslaus. They doe so
reverence the Monument of this Bishop (since made a
Saint by the Pope). as they thinke he shall die with shame,
that passeth by it without reverence. In Old Prage
towards the South, and upon the East side of Molda,
there is an old Pallace, where they shew a trap-doore, by
which the Qeene was wont to slide downe into a Bath,
where shee used to satisfie her unlawfull lust. In the same
place is graven the leape of a horse, no lesse wonderfull
then Byards fabulous leape. The House of Kelley a
famous English Alcumist, was of old a Sanctuary, and
built for an order of Friers, upon the gate whereof these
verses are written,
Has edes veterum favor & clementia Regum,
Omnibus exemptas Legibus esse dedit :
Audeat ergo jugum nemo his servile minari,
Q.qos hic cure Urabsky curat alitque Deus.
This house through old Kings Clemency
Free from all Lawes no threats respects;
Dare not fright them with slavery,
Whom under God Urabsky protects.
In the Senate house the City Armes are painted, being
a Castle with three Towers ore; and two Lions argent
Langed gules, are the supporters, and these Verses are
written upon the Armes ;
Q.qi dedit hec veteri turrita insignia Prague,
Omina venture sortis arnica dedit.
Mole sua ut celsa: tra.nscendunt mcenia Turres,
Sic famam superas inclita Praga tuam.
3 2

Pihen.

Charge in
Bohemia.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

belongs to the family of the Poples. The second day
wee went foure miles to Zudermont, all through Moun-
taines and Groves, and two great Woods, yet reasonably
fruitfull in Corne, and by the way" we saw the City Bodly,
and the City Spil, the fairest of that Kingdome next to
Prage, both belonging to the Emperour, and two Castles,
belonging to the Barons Popeles and heere each man
dined for sixteene Creitzers. After dinner we went two
miles to Pilsen, halle the way through Woods, where is a
little City Ruchtsan, and halle through Hils and Plaines
fruitfull in Corne, (almost the whole Countrey of Bohemia
being hilly, and rich ground for Pasture and Corne) and
here we supped each man for twenty three Creitzers.
The third day wee went three miles to Kladen, through
pleasant Hils of Groves, pasture and corne, where each
man dined for eighteene Creitzers. After dinner we
went three miles to Frawenberg, through high Moun-
taines and great Woods, having no great store of corne;
in all which territory, the Cities and Villages acknowledge
the Emperour for their supreme Lord, as he is King of
Bohemia. For this Kingdome is not divided (as others
be) into Provinces and Countries, but into Noble-mens
Territories. Here we paied each man eight Creitzers for
our supper, and twelve for wine.
The fourth day wee went a mile and a halle to a little
river, dividing Bohemia, or Boemerland from Germany,
through rocky Mountaines, and many Woods of tall Fir
trees, fit to make Masts for Ships. Then wee entred a
Countrey belonging to the Elector Palatine of the Rheine,
which Elector is called vulgarly the Phaltz-grave, and we
came within halle a mile to Weithawsen, where each man
dined for eighteene Creitzers. After dinner we went two
miles in the Phaltzgraves Countrey, through woody
Mountaines, and one mile in the Landgrave of Leyten-
berg his Countrey, through fruitfull corne fields, and
lodged at Shonhutton, where each man paled six Creitzers
for his supper, and thirteene for wine. For in these parts
they drinke no beere (as before) but wine, and that at

COMMENTS UPON NURNBERG

a lower price, then other where, whether it bee native or
forraine : yet no man must wonder that wee spent more
in wine then meat, all my consorts being Dutch-men.
The fifth day wee went in the Phaltzgraves Countrey,
foure miles to Amberg: through fruitfull Hils of corne,
and some few Woods, and this City belongs to the
Phaltzgrave, being seated in the upper Palatinate. After
dinner we went in the Marquesse of Anspach his Country,
(who is also called the Burgrave of Nurnberg) two miles
to Hous-coate, a Village, where each man paid six Batzen
for his supper. The sixt day we went three miles, passing
by Erspruck, a Citie subject to the Nurnbergers, and
many villages belonging to divers Lords, and a fort in the
mid way called Schwang, belonging to seventy two Lords,
and being then by course in the Phaltzgraves keeping ;
for all these Lords keepe the same by course for three
yeeres. The first and greater part of the way, was
through fruitfull Hils of corne, the rest through sandy
pastures, and a Wood of a miles length. Wee dined at a
poore Village, each man for six Batzen. After dinner
we went two miles to Nurnberg, through sandy corne
fields, and passed by many houses and gardens of the
Citizens, whether they use to come out of the City,
sometimes to recreate themselves. The Wood which we
passed in the morning, lay on our left hand towards the
South ; as wee entred the Citie on the east side, and not
farre from the City, turneth it selfe and runneth farther
towards the South.
The City of Nurnberg, seated in a barren sandy ground,
yet is very rich by the Citizens industry. For as
commonly few be rich in a fertile Countrey, (either because
having enough for food, they are given to idlenesse, or
because abundance makes them prodigall,) so the Nurn-
bergers planted in a barren soyle, by their subtile inven-
tions of Manuall workes, and cunning Art, draw the
riches of all Countries to them. The River Bengetts
runnes by the Citie, but is not Navigable, nor beareth
any the least boats. This River runnes from the East
35

l mberg.

Erspruck.

Nurnberg.
[I. i. I8.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

(where wee entred the Towne) towards the gate Lau-
thore, and so compasseth the suburbs towards the South,
where dividing into two beds, it entreth the City, and
comming out againe at the West, washeth the Citie walles.
On the East side, the Margraves of Brandeburg, besieged
the City, at the command of Charles the fifth; therefore
Nurnberg on this, and the South side, besides a dry ditch, and two
u,ellfortifled, stone walles compassing the whole City, divers Bulwarkes
are built upon the wall. On all sides as you come up
to the City, the earth riseth, and almost at every gate there
is a long suburbe. Upon the walles there be many
Towers, distant one from the other some Iooo ordinary
walking paces, and the whole circuit of the City is lesse
then a German mile. Among the said Towers, three are
stronger then the rest, and furnished with Artillery. The
first is on the East side neere the gate Lauff-thore. The
second is on the South side, under the gate Fraw-thore,
(and on the same side is the gate Spittle-thore.) The
third is on the North side under the gate New-thore, (and
on the same side is another gate called Burk-thore.)
There is a Castle called Burk, which by Nero the
Noricum Emperour, was of his name called Noricum Castrurn. It
Cnstrum. is certaine, that this Castle stood in the time of Charles
the Great; and the City being of it selfe not ancient,
is thought to have had his name of this Castles old
Latine name. On the West side is the gate Haller-thore,
so called of him that caused it to be built; where is a
pleasant walke, thicke shadowed with trees, where the
Citizens use to walke for pleasure.
The City is absolute of it selfe, being one of the free
Cities of the Empire, and mee thinks the chief, or at
least second to Augsburg: surely it may perhaps yield
to Augsburg in treasure and riches of the City, but it
must be preferred for the building, which is all of free
stone sixe or seven roofes high: I speake of the whole
City of Augsburg, for one street thereof is most beaufi-
full, and some Pallaces there are fit for Princes, of which
kind Nurnberg hath none. The Tower which I said was
3 6

COMMENTS UPON NURNBERG

of old called Noricum Castrum, hangs over the City,
which being seated in a plaine, hath no mounts neere it,
and is of a round f'orme. The said Tower is compassed
with a drie ditch very deepe, upon the wall whereof they
shew a Spaniards blood there sprinkled, who undertooke
to betray the Castle to Charles the fifth : as also the print
of a Horses feete in memory of a wonderfull leape from
the Castle side to the other side of the bridge. The
Senate House lies under the side of this Castle or Tower,
as it were under the shield of _Ajax, and under the same
house and under the earth be the publike prisons. The
_Armory is built on the South side of the Towne, and is
.opened to no man without consent of the Senate, (which
an all other Cities of Germany is readily shewed to
strangers.) _And in that _Armory by the Citizens report
they have 4oo. great peeces of _Artillery, with great store
of all Munitions. The City hath also a Granary, which
is so large, as divers yeeres provision (or corne may be
laid up therein. It hath ten Churches, whereof onely
foure are used for prayers and preaching; and in one of
them lies buried Zebalemus King of Denmarke, who first
converted the City to Christian Religion. Neere the
Church of Saint Laurence is the golden fountaine, so
called of the beauty and .magnificence, and it distils water
out of twenty leaden pipes. Neere the Church called
Frawenkirk, is another faire Fountaine guilded over, and
compassed with an iron grate. It is unlawful to walke in
the night without a torch, or a candle and lanthorne. In
the Innes they give no beere at the table, but divers
kinds of wine, and a large diet, if not delicate : for which
every man paieth sixe batzen a meale, and besides for his
chamber or lodging (which he may have private to him-
selfe) three creitzers by the day. In the Alines-houses,
out of gifts by the last testament of those that die, they
maintaine great numbers of poore people, and in one of
them twelve old men apart, and in another twelve old
men, and as many old weomen.
Whilst I lived at Prage, and one night had set up very
37

The hmory.

Charges in
the Innes.

[I. i. 9-]

At strange
dreame at
Prage.

d like dreame
at Cambridge.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

late drinking at a feast, early in the morning the Sunne
beames glancing on my face, as I lay in bed, I dreamed
that a shadow passing by, told me that my father was
dead ; at which awaking all in a sweat, and affected with
this dreame, I rose and wrote the day and houre, and all
circumstances thereof in a paper booke, which Booke with
many other things I put into a barrel, and sent it from
Prage to Stode, thence to be convaied into England. And
now being at Nurnberg, a Merchant of a noble family,
well acquainted with me and my friends, arrived there,
who told me that my Father died some two moneths past,
I list not write any lies, but that which I write is as true
as strange. When I returned into England some foure
yeeres after, I would not open the barrell I sent from
Prage, nor looke on the paper Booke in which I had
written this dreame, till I had called my sisters and some
friends to be witnesses, where my selfe and they were
astonished to see my written dreame answere the very day
of my Fathers death.
I may lawfully sweare, that which my kinsmen have
heard witnessed by my brother Henry whilst he lived,
that in my youth at Cambridge I had the like dreame of
my Mothers death, where my brother Henry lying with
me, early in the morning I dreamed that my mother
passed by with a sad countenance, and told me that shee
could not come to my commencement ; I being within
five moneths to proceed Master of Arts, and shee having
promised at that time to come to Cambridge : And when
I related this dreame to my brother, both of us awaking
together in a sweat, he protested to me that he had
dreamed the very same, and when wee had not the least
knowledge of our Mothers sickenesse, neither in our
youthfull affections were any whit affected with the
strangenesse of this dreame, yet the next Carrier brought
us word of our mothers death.
Being (as I have said) certified of my Fathers death at
Nurnberg, and thinking not fit to goe on my journey
into Italy, and yet being loath to returne into England,
3 8

COMMENTS UPON NURNBERG

before I had finished my purposed voyage, I tooke the
middle counsell, to returne into the Low Countries, that
in those neere places I might dispose of my small
patrimony (fbr in England gentlemen give their younger
sonnes lesse, then in lorraine parts they give to their
bastards) and so might leave the same in the hands of
some trusty friend. Yet lest I should loose the oppor-
tunity of seeing Augsburg, meaning to returne some
other way into Italy, I resolved to goe from hence to
Augsburg, and then to crosse over the West parts ot
Germany, and so to passe along the River Rhein into
the Low Countries.
To Augsburg (being two dayes journey and a halfe)
I hired of the City Carrier (in whose company I went) an T& City
Horse for two Dollors, as I remember. The Merchants Carrier.
of Nurnberg and Augs.burg, give pensions to eight of
these Carriers, daily passing betweene those Cities, besides
the profit they make of letters, and other things they
carry by horse. The first day after breake-fast, we rode
one mile in a thicke wood, and another mile through
sandy corne fields, somewhat wooddy, both in the territory
of the Nurnbergers, and foure miles more in the territory
of the Margrave of Anspach, to Blinfield, where each
man paid for his supper and horse meat sixe batzen. The
second day we rode foure miles to Monheime through a
wood of Juniper, full of blacke berries and barberies,
at the end whereof was a free City called Wassenberge, 14/assen&rge.
and after through fruit full hils and valleies of corne, all
the territory, excepting the free City, belonging to the
Marshall of the Emperour (not of the Empire): when
we came almost to our journeies end, the Carrier had a
guide given him, according to custome, for theeves using
to lie by that way. Monheime belongs to the Phaltz-
grave of Newburg, being of the family of the Phaltz-
graves of Rhein, and there we paid each man for his
dinner and horse-meat thirty foure creitzers, which make
eight batzen and a halle, and there we tasted Juniper wine, .luniperwine.
which I never remember to have tasted else where. After

[L i.

Augsburg.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

dinner we rode two miles and a halle through fruitfull
hils of corne, and a small wood of Okes (though all the
woods of upper Germany be commonly of firre, bearing
greene leaves all winter, as those of inferiour Germany
towards Denmarke, be all of Okes.) By the way we
passed a Monastery granted to the Phaltzgrave of Rhein
by the Emperour, and a free City of the Empire, called
Donaward, of the two Rivers Danow & Werd, meeting
there, and there we passed by bridge the Danow, running
by the City. Then wee rode to Weschendorff two miles
and a halle more, through fruitfull fields of corne &
pastures, the Country belonging to the Fugares (Citizens
of Augsburg) & to divers other Lords. The Castle of
this place belongs to the said Fugares, who are rich &
famous for their treasure; & though they have princely
revenues, & the title of barons, yet stil are merchants:
here each man paid for his supper & hors-meat 8. batzen
& a half.
The third day in the morning we rode three miles to
Augsburg, through a fruitfull plaine of corne; without
the wals whereof on the East and North, and some part
of the South sides, the fields are drowned with waters,
and men passe to the Citie by causies, for on these sides
the ground lieth low: but on the west side is all the
beauty of the City, where the houses are seated upon a
hill, and ther is a place for the Merchants to meet, called
the Berle, and likewise the Senate house in the street
Weingasse, so called of the Wine cellars. There also be
many Pallaces stately built, of the Fugares and other
Citizens: all the building is of free stone sixe or seven
roofes high; but in other parts it is more poorely built
of timber and clay. On this West part of the City is the
Gate called Kuknerthore, and the ditches are dry, as they
be round about the City; the wals are of stone, which
being on all other sides narrow, are on this side broad:
for upon the wals of this side there be little houses built
for five hundred Garrison Souldiers to dwell in, with their
wives and families: which place is vulgarly called Die

I592.

The Senate

[I. i. 2I.]

lugsburg
destroyed by
lttila.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

letters, that the bowels of Otho the Emperour are buried
there. Also there is a curious picture of Christ praying
in the garden, whilst his Disciples slept ; and upon a very
faire Clocke are three statuaes of the three Kings of
Colen, (so they call the Wise Men of the East) and these
carried about by a circle of iron, worship Christ when
the Clocke strikes. In the Senate House (where the
imperiall Parliaments vulgarly called Reichs-tagen have
often beene held) I found nothing to answere the mag-
nificence of this City ; onely on the gates this is written :
Wise men build upon the Rocke, Fooles upon the Sand:
(for I said this part of the City on the West side was built
upon a stony hill.) In the Jesuites Church the Al.tar is
of silver.gilded over, and another Altar of Christs
Nativity Is curiously painted like the barks of trees.
Augsburg (called of the Vandals, for distinction from
Augsburg Rauracorum in Sweitzerland,) is divided from
the Vandals by the Brooke Lycus, and being of old a City
of Rhetia, now is reckoned the metropolitane City of
Suevia, vulgarly Schwaben, & is said to have beene built
by the sonne of Japhet, sixe hundred yeeres before Rome
was builded. Of old they had a yeerely feast to Ceres,
and now upon the same day they have a Faire: and for
the fruitfulnesse of the soyle, the City gives a sheave of
corne for their Armes. This City was utterly destroyed
by Attila, King.of the Hunnes, and when he was dead,
was rebuilt agame. It is a free Citie of the Empire,
(which are .vulgarly called Reichs-statt,) and as other free
Cities, it is governed by Senators. There bee many
Almes houses for the poore, and one, wherein foure
hundreth are nourished, by rents of land and houses,
given to that house of old by good men. The Citie is
seated upon the Northern mouth of the Alpes, in a
fruitfull plaine of corne and pastures, and Hils full of
game for hunting, and it may bee gathered how populous
it is, by that a German Author writes, that in a yeere when
no plague raigned, 17c 5 were baptized, and I227 buried.
Being constant in my purpose taken at Nurnberg, to
4u

COMMENTS UPON ULM

1592.

goe.from Auspurge, to the West parts of Germany, and
so nto the Low-countries; yet I wil remember the
Reader, that he shall finde the journey from Augsburg
to Venice, described in my voyage from Stode to Venice,
and thence to Hierusalem. From Augspurg I rode to
Ulme, and thence .to Lindawe, and all the way hired my
horse for sixe or seven Batzen a day, paying for the daies Horsecharge.
in which my horse returned, and hyring footmen to bring
them backe, and bearing their charges. The first day l
rode foure miles thorow the territory of the Fugars, and
the Bishop of Tilleng, and one mile in the territory of
the Arch-Duke of Austria, of the house of Inspruch, in a
mountainous Countrey full of Woods, of Juniper, Ashes,
Oakes, and Beaches, to Burg; where each man paid for
his dinner and horsemeat, eight Batzen.
In the afternoone I rode foure miles to Ulme, through ulne.
a fruitfull plaine of corne. Entring the City, we passed
by a Bridge, the River Danow, which (though running
in a plaine) yet hath a most violent course, so as boats Barkes on the
carried downe the streame, use to be sold at the place Rie'crDanow.
where they land, it being very difficult to bring them
backe again; yet some Barkes of burthen are sometimes
drawne backe, by the force of horses. My selfe have
seene tenne horses drawing one Barke, but they use a
greater number, according to occasion, some thirty or
more, as they report ; and he that rides on the horse
neerest the Barke, is called Wage-halse, that is, Necke
venturer, because hee and the horse are often drawn under
the water, till the other horses draw them out again.
This River hath foure great water fals, whereof the
greatest is at Struddle, eighteene miles from Vienna,
which is hardly to be passed, except it be in a floud. And
the multitude of Bridges are very dangerous for boats, .4 dangerou
by reason of the violent streame, and especially because Rieer.
the Marriners are many times drunken, or negligent.
They use for a charme, to sprinkle their drawing horses
with water, and use with continuall loud cries to make
them draw. This Navigation is very necessary that the
43

The order of
the Dutch
Knight.

[I. i. zz.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

lower Oestreich, being fertill, may supply the upper being
barren, with wine and corne. Munster writeth of two
fals of this River, one below Lintz, where the waters
make a terrible noyse, beating upon the rocky bed, the
other at Gryn, where the water makes a dangerous whirle-
poole of unsearchable depth. Ulme is seated in Schwaben
or Suevia, as Augspurge is, and hath his name of Elme-
trees. Charles the Great built a Monastery in this Village,
which in time grew to a City, and under the Emperour
Fredrick the third, bought their freedome of the Monkes.
The building thereof is of wood and clay. The order of
Knights called in Latine, Teutonicus, was in old time
of great power, and ha.th yet a house in this Citie. It
hath one stately Church, in the Yard whereof the Mount
Olivet is curiously ingraven. It hath a faire Senate
house, and the Armory hath such store of Ordinance and
all Munitions, as it yeeldeth not therein to the proudest
City in Germany. The writing Tables, made in this
City, are famous for their goodnesse, and are thence
carried into lorraine parts. The diet o.f the Innes of this
.City (seated in a most fertill soyle) is very plentifull, both
m meats and banquets, where each man paied for his
dinner, seven Batzen. In this Country they drinke
nothing but wine, (as they doe in all upper Germany,)
but it is sharpe, and the Masse or measure is sold for
three Batzen. When wee were at dinner, a Tumbler
came in, and being admitted to shew his cunning, hee
stood upon his head and dranke a measure of wine, which
seemed strange to the beholders.
After dinner, we rode a mile in a pleasant valley upon
the Dow, which wee passed, and rode two miles further
in the like fertill plaine, which is very large, and by all
men much commended for the fruitfull pastures thereof.
And so wee came to Baltring, subject to a li.ttle free Citie
called Bubery, and here each man paied five Batzen for
dinner, and three for horse-meat. Next morning, after a
miles riding, we came to the City Bubery and rode two
miles further to Waldshut, through woody Mountaines,
44

COMMENTS UPON LINDAU

and corne rallies, which were so boggey, as many times
wee had almost stuck fast. The Countrey belongs to the
Arch-Duke, of the family of Inspruck; and heere wee
paled each man nine Batzen for dinner and horsemeat.
After dinner wee rode two miles through . woody
Country, to Rvenspurg, free Citie, seated betweene
Mountaines, whereof one hangeth over it, and the River
Ach runneth by it, in a narrow bed; so as the waters
falling from the Mountaines very swiftly, doe many times
overflow, to the great damage of the Countrey ; .nd from
the Mountaines many woodden pipes convey water to
the City. In these parts bee many Almes houses, for
those that are infected with Leprosie, who may not come
neere the Passengers, but doe beg of them a farre off,
with the sound of a woodden clapper. Heere each man
paid for his supper and horse-meat, twelve Batzen and a
haJfe. The first day of May, we rode three miles, one
through a Wood, the rest through a plaine of corne and
inclosed pastures, and Hils planted with Vines, to the
City Lindaw. By the way we saw the house of Count
Montfort, and passed the River A_rba by . Bridge, which
doth often overflow the plaine, doing great hurt; nd
there wee paid halle a Creitzer tribute to the said Count,
for each man. We were now come out of Suevia, and
had rode two miles in Algoia, and on the left hand towards
the South, we discovered the mouth of the Alpes, which
in this place is called Spliego.
Lindaw is a free City of the Empire, which freedome it
bought in the yeere 166, and it is almost an Iland, seated
in the lake called Acronius (vulgarly Bodensea) being
joyned to the continent by a Bridge of stone on the North-
east side, where it hath onely one gate, called Burg-thore,
by which wee entred. On this fide, the fields are very
pleasant, and planted with Vines, and neere the Bridge
there is a Rampier, so old, as they say, it was erected by
the Heathen, before any Christians were. Hence the
City lies in length towards the South West: partly on
the West, and altogether on .the South side lies the lake
45

I592.

llmes houses
for Lepers.

Linda=,.

COMMENTS UPON LINDAU

money by deceit. Thus my case standeth. Being at
Nurnberg, asd purposing thence to goe to Bazell, there
to study, I dealt with a Merchant, that hee would
exchange my money thither, retaining onely so much as
would plentifully serve mee for my expences thither.
There I met with M. B. a Citizen of Lindaw, who told
me that the gold Guldens of Rheine were not to be
spent in these parts without losse. So as I finding him
acknowledged by the Carriers of this City (then being
there) and by many Nurnbergers, for the sonne of a
Senator in this Towne, was induced to deliver him some
gold Guldens, to be paid mee heere in French Crownes,
and wee comming in company together to this Towne,
when I saw many principall Citizens gratulate his returne,
I was induced to deliver him the rest of my gold Guldens,
which I had kept for the expence of my journey, upon
his promise to exchange them into French Crownes. So
as in all hee is to pay mee thirtie two French Crownes
wanting six Creitzers, (.for twenty seven of which French
Crownes, and thirty six Creitzers, I tooke his bill at
Nurnberg, but the rest I delivered him here upon his
bare word.) Heere I expected his payment eight dayes,
and when I was instant with him to put off the payment
no longer, he is stoln out of the Towne, and his brothers
give me no hope of payment: being not so noble, as
to ponder the case rightly, or to have any due feeling of
my state. Being in this case, not able without money to
goe on my iourney, or indure the delayes of a sute in Law
against him heere ; all my hope is in your just helpe, which
failing me, I know not what course to take. Therefore
I desire earnestly of your worthinesse, to assist mee, and
give expedition to my cause, that I may be delivered by
your goodnesse.

I592.
.4 Petition to
the Consuls.

My debtor, while he lived in the publike Inne with
mee, used mee with all curtesie; but finding himselfe
disinherited by his father lately dead, and so dispairlng of
means to pay me, he was now fled to the Monastery
47

COMMENTS UPON CONSTANCE

44, yet was there condemned of Heresie, and burned.
On the West side of the Citie, within the walles, in the
Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster, is the Tower wherein
he was imprisoned; and without the walles on the left
hand, as you goe out, is a faire meadow, and therein a
stone upon the high-way, to which he was bound, being
burnt the same yeere 4x4, in the month of July.
Where also his fellow Jerom of Prage was burnt xn
September, the yeere following, both their ashes being
cast into the Lake, lest the Bohemians should carry them
away. The Senate-house in which this Councell was held,
is of no beauty. When the Emperour Charles the fifth,
besieged this Citie, it was yeelded to the hands of
Ferdinand King of Bohemia, and brother to Charles, who
made the Citizens peace for them. Heere each man paid
eight Batzen a meale, and for wine betweene meales,
eight creitzers the measure.
Hence I went by boat, two miles to Styga, and paied
for my passage two Batzen. We tooke boat at the end
of the Lake close by the City; where the Rheine
comming againe out of the Lake, and taking his name
therein lost, doth runne in an narrow bed ; and when wee
had gone by water some houre and a halle, wee entred
the lower Lake, called Unden-sea. Neere Costnetz is an
Iland called little Meinow, and in this lower lake is
another Iland called Reichnow, of the riches, the
Monastery thereof having of old so much lands, as the
Monkes being sent to Rome, used to lodge every night in
their owne possessions. This Iland is said to beare nothing
that hath poyson, so as any such beast dieth presently
in it: and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint
Marke, for which (as they say) the Venetians have offered
much money. Writers report that of old, a Monke
thereof climing up a ladder, to looke into a huge vessell
of wine, and being overcome with the vapour, fell into
the same, with a great bunch of keyes in his hand, and
that shortly after this wine was so famous, as Princes and
Nobles, and many sickly persons usually sent for the same ;
M. I 49 D

[I. i. 24. ]

John Hus
burned.

Meinow and
Reichnow.

t Monke
drowned in a
huge yes, ell of
wine.

COMMENTS UPON ZURICH ^.D.
1592.
get for no money the Booke of Semlerus de Repub. Seralerux
Helvetica, which you commended unto me: at last I ;e Repub.
found it in a friends study, who esteemed it as the apple ttelvetica.
of his eye, yet I so prevailed with him, as he let me have
it, upon my faithfull promise ; that because I meant to blot
the same with notes, I should procure him a new Booke ;
wherein if you doe not disingage me by sending
the same unto me, I shall forfet the small credit of a
stranger. Farewell good Sir, and I pray you let us not
suffer this sparke of our love to goe out, but rather with
often writing, let us set all the coale on fire. Againe
farewell: from Bazell the z4- day of May t59 z.

From Schafhusen I tooke my journey on foot (as is
above written) and went halle a mile in the territory of
that City, and a mile and a halle in the territory of the
Count of Zultz a Sweitzer, the lands of Zurech lying on
the South side from us; and so wee passed through [I. i. 26.]
Mountaines yeelding come, and planted with vines, and
through woods, pastures, and a large valley of come, and
in route houres space (for the miles of Sweitzerland are
so long, as they reckon the journeies of horse or foot
by the houres, and not by the miles) came to Eglisaw,
and entering the same, passed the River Rheine by a
Bridge, where I paide two creitzers for tribute, and there
I supped for five Batzen.
The next morning I went two miles on foot in six Zurech.
houres space to Zurech, through a long wood, and hils
of come (which they say are often blasted with haile)
and through wooddy Mountaines, and hils of inclosed
.pastures, with store of Vines planted neere the City, which
is one of the Cantons of Sweitzerland, having on the
West side the Lake called Zurechsea, and the Brooke
Limachus, having his head eight miles further on the same
side, runneth into this lake, and after comming out,
divideth the City into two parts, called the greater and
the lesse City, having three brides for passage, the greater
whereof the Merchants use tot their meetings. The

and ouw of
ZurecA.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

foresaid Lake is three miles long, and hath on each side
pleasant hils planted with Vines. The foresaid Brooke
neere the City beareth onely small boates, and is all taken
up with water mils, but above towards the is
deeper, and below neere Baden runneth into the Rheine.
The streetes of Zurech are narrow, and the Houses
builded of timber and clay, and the City it selfe is seated
upon and betweene hils, which on the East side of the
Brooke grow higher from it. On the North-west side
is a pleasant Mountaine, and a faire meadow for shooting
with gunnes, and other exercises, wherein is a faire Lynden
or teyle tree, yeelding large and sweet shadow, where the
Citizens meete to recreate themselves, and to feast
together. The Armes of the City are a Man and Woman,
called Falix & Regula: without the City on the South,
is the foresaid Lake, and beyond it the Alpes covered
with snow. On the West side is a plaine, and the Moun-
taines farre off, but on the North and East sides the
Mountaines lie neere. The Citizens have a custome that
when they goe forth against the enemy, they place the
Ministers or Pastors in the front, or where they may
partake the danger, and there is a place two miles from
the City towards Lucerna, where Zwinglius a famous
Preacher and reformer of Religion was killed in the field.
Here I paid each meale six batzen.
I rode three miles to Baden in three houres, and so hired
my Horse as besides the price of six or seven batzen the
day, I paid as much for the dales in which he returned,
and also paid the hire and charges of one to bring him
backe. Most part of our way was in the territory of
Zurech, through hils of corne and vines, and a plaine of
inclosed pastures. Entering the City we passed the
brooke Limachus by a bridge: the Suburbs are built
upon the ascent of a Mountaine, and the City on the
top of it, where there is a Castle upon a Rocke, of old
very strong, but now ruinated: on the North side
descending into a valley by the brooke on the right hand,
or upon the East side, within a musket shot lie the Baths,

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

parts, and the boate was drawne by a cable running upon
a wheele, by reason of the waters swift course: where
I paide for my passage sixe creitzers: and when I came
neere Bruck, I passed the Brooke Ara by a bridge, paying
one creitzer for tribute; and here I paid five batzen a
meale. From hence hiring a horse as before, I rode in
Hornsea. two houres space to Hornsea, through steepe Mountaines,
and a wood of Oake: by the way lies Kingsfeld, that
is Kinglyfield, a Monastery so called, because Widowe
Qgeenes, and Kings, forsaking their Scepters, and inferiour
Princes were wont of old to enter into this place for the
solitary profession of Religion. In the same Cloyster
of old, lived the Friars of Saint Francis order, in the
building on the right hand as you come in, and the Nunnes
of Saint Clara on the left hand, and both came to the
Themolaste,y same Chappell, the Friars to the body of the Church,
of Kingsfeld. and the Nunnes to close galleries above, looking out and
hearing through grates. The Emperour Albertus being
killed by his Nephew in the yeere i38o. at Santbacke
three miles distant, this Monastery xvas built for his
memory, though his bones were buried at Spire. The
revenewes of this monastery grew in time to be yeerly
forty thousand Guldens, which are now appropriated to
the common treasure of the Sweitzer Cantons. Leopold
Duke of Austria lies here buried. Ferdinand of
Insprucke, one of the Arch-dukes of Austria, is Lord
of Hornesea; all the rest of the territories from
Schafhusen to this place, belonging to the Cantons of
Sweitzerland: and here I paid sxe batzen a meale.
Hence I hired a horse as before, and rode in five houres
to Rheinefeld through fruitfull hils of corne, having on
all sides wooddy Mountaines in sight. Here againe I
passed the Rheine, and paid two raps for my horse and
my selfe ; foot-men paying but one. The Rheine passeth
by with a violent course, and washeth the Towne on
the East side. Here I paid sixe Batzen a meale.
Hence hiring a Horse as before, I rode in two houres
.Bazell. space to Bazell, through a faire plaine of corne and pasture,
56

COMMENTS UPON BASEL

lying upon the Rheine, having on all sides woody Moun-
taines in sight, and neere the City were most pleasant
fields planted with vines, to the which fields the territory
of the said Arch-duke extendeth on the East side of the
Rheine. I entered by little Bazell seated in a plaine on
the East side of Rheine, and so passed by a bridge of
wood into the greater Bazell, seated upon pleasant hils
on the Vrest side of Rheine. This City of old was one
of the imperiall free Cities, but now is joined to the
Cantons of Sweitzerland, and was built in the yeere 382.
having the name of a Basiliske, slaine by a Knight covered T& nanle of
with cristall, or of the word Pasell, which in Dutch Bazell.
signifies a beaten path, or of the greeke word/Sco-,w, as a
kingly City. The lesse Bazell was of old built by an
Arch-duke of Austria, in prejudice of the greater, and
after being sold to it for thirty thousand guldens, was
incorporated thereunto: The greater hath many caves
under the hils, and suffered a great earth-quake in the Great
yeere 1346 , at which time the Pallace neere the Cathedrall Eartlluake.
Church fell into the Rheine, and another Earth-quake in
the yeere 1356. wherein 18o. persons were killed, all the
people flying out of the Towne. Eugenius the Pope held
a Councell in this City, the yeere 1431. The Bridge
of wood joyning the little and great City, divided by
the Rheine, is broad enough for two carts to passe at
once; and towards little Bazell six Arches are of stone:
but towards great Bazell where the Rheine runneth most
swiftly, eight Arches are built of wood, that they may
be more easily repaired, and upon any warre from
Germany more readily broken downe. This City is of
the forme of an half Moone, (I meane the great City,
reckoning the lesse for a Suburbe) and being seated upon
divers hils on the West side of the Rheine, imbraceth
betweene the two homes the lesser City, seated in a plaine
on the East side of Rheine. On the West side of the
greater, the Emperor Rodulphus of Habspurg besieged [I. i. 28.]
the City, and on this side something towards the North,
within the walles, is a most pleasant greene for walking,

I592.

[I. i. 29. ]

Ludovicus
Pontc, nus.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

kindes of Arts, joyned with like wisedome, ages to
come shall admire and celebrate, Boniface Amen-
bachius, Jerome, Frobenius, Nichol : Bishop, heire
and Executors of his last Will and Testament : to
their Patron of happy memory, which by his
writings he hath got, and so long as the world
stands shall retaine : for the reposing of his mortall
body, have Iayed this stone. He died the fourth
of the Ides of July, being now seventy yeeres old,
in the yeere of our Lord, MDXXXVI.
These two Verses are written upon the Tombe of
Lodovicus Pontanus :

Hic jacet arte Plato, Cato, vita, TulIius ore,
Vermes corpus alit, spiritus astra petit.

Here lies Plato, Cato, Tully,
For his Art, life, and eloquence,
Wormes doe feede upon his body,
His soule to heaven is mounted hence.

Ot&r There be also the Monuments of Henricus Glarianus,
Monuments. and of Bishop Hatto, whom the Emperour Charles the
Great, sent Ambassadour to Irene Empresse of the East.
In this City a stone is shewed, called the hot stone,
vulgarly Heisteine, upon which the Consuls, and divers
others were beheaded, who had conspired to betray the
Citie, if the clocke striking false had not prevented, and
deceived both them and the enemies, lying in ambush
without the City, & expecting a signe to be given them
at the houre appointed. And for this cause (or as others
say, to hasten the Councell held in the Senate house)
the clocke to this .day strikes one, when it should strike
twelve. Neere the staires of the Senate house is an old
Statua on foot, armed, but without a sword, bearing a
Scepter, clad with a loose gowne, with a birde sitting on
the Helmet, and hath this inscription;

COMMENTS UPON BASEL

Hono. & virtuti
L. Munatij. L.F.L.N.L. Pron:
Planci
Cos: Imper: & Ter VII viri
Epulonum
Qui triumph: ex Retis
Edem Saturni F. ex
Manub:
Agros divisit in Italia
Beneventi.
In Galliam Colonias Ded:
Lugdunum atque
Rauracum.

Civitas Basiliensis
Ex bellicosiss: gente
Alemannorum
In Rauracorum fines
Transducta
Simulachrum hoc ex
Senatus Auct:
Dicandum statuendumque
Curavit
Anno salutis Christiame
CIDIDXXC.

Of Lucius Munatius the sonne of
Lucius, grand-child of Lucius, great
Grand-child of Lucius, surnamed
Plancus ;
Being Consul, General, and thrice
One of the seven Presidents of the
holy Banquets
Who triumphed of the Rhetians.
Built Saturnus Temple with the spoyles,
Divided the Land in Italy
at Benevento,
Deduced Colonies into Gaul,
To Lyons, and about Bazel.
The City of Bazel deduced
Of the most warlike Nation
Of the Alemans ;
Into the Territories of the
Rauraci (or Basilians,)
By authority of the Senate,
Procured
This Statua to be consecrated
and heere set.
In the yeere of Christ,
CIDIDLXXX

592.
Luciu
Munatiu.

COMMENTS UPON STRASSBURG

the foot of the Alpes, yet this City hath a fountaine,
where water is sold, and a certaine price is given for the
watering of every beast.
We passed the other eight miles to Strasburg, the same Strasburg.
day in eight houres, being helped with the same swiftnesse
of the Rheine, which being oft divided by the way, makes
many little Ilands. The bridge of Strasburg over the
Rheine, is more then a Musket shot from the City, on
the East side thereof. The bridge is of wood, and hath The Bridge
threescore five Arches each distant from the other twenty over the
Rheine.
walking paces, and it is so narrow that an horse-man can
hardly passe by a cart, it lying open on both sides, and it is
built of small pieces of timber laid a crosse, which lye
loose; so as one end being pressed with any weight, the
other is lifted up, with danger to fall into the water. It
is like they build no stronger bridge, either because
they have tryed that the swift course of the Rheine
will easily breake it downe, or because in the time
of warre it may be good for them to. breake it : in which
case it were farre greater charge to rebuild it with
stone, then with wood. The Rheine lying thus farre off
from the City, the boats are brought up to the same by
a little channell. The brookes of Bress and Elb, passe
through many streets of the City, and fill all the large
ditches thereof with water. The City is very well
fortified, having high walles of earth, the bottomes
whereof are fastned with stone, and the sides with trees
planted on the same. On the West side towards France,
are the gates Weissen-thore, and Rheine-thore. On the The City
East side toward the Rheine, is the gate Croneberg-thore, Gates.
at which, though it be out of the way, for the jealousie
of neighbour-hood, the French must enter, and at no
other. On the East side is the Butchers gate, called,
Metsiger-thore. On the same side is the Cathedrall
Church. The circuit of the City is three houres walking.
The buildings and Churches are faire and high, of free
stone ; most of the streets are narrow, but those diviled
by water are broader. I paied six Batzen a meate, and
63

[I. i. 3.]

The Clecke ef
Strasburg.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

for wine extraordinary three Batzen the measure. Many
things in this City are remarkable. The Steeple of the
Cathedrall Church is most beautifull, and numbred
among the seven miracles of the world, being begun in
the yeere 1277 , and scarce finished in twentie eight yeeres.
In the building of one gate thereof, they say, three Kings
treasure was spent, in whose memory three statuaes are
there ingraven. The Church is covered with lead, which
is rare in Germany, where the chiefe Churches are covered
with brasse, growing in the Countrey. The brazen gates
of this church are curiously carved.
The Clocke thereof is of all other most famous, being
invented by Conradus Dasipodius, in the yeere I57I.
Before the Clocke stands a globe on the ground ; shewing
the motion of the heavens, starres and planets; namely,
of the heaven carried about by the first mover, in twenty
foure houres, of Saturne by his proper motion carried
about in thirty yeeres, of Jupiter in twelve, of Mars in
two, of the Sunne, Mercury and Venus in one yeere, of
the Moone in one month. In the Clocke it selfe there be
two tables on the right and left hand, shewing the eclipses
of the Sunne and Moone, from the yeere I573, to the
yeere i6o 5. The third table in the midst, is divided into
three parts. In the first part the statuaes of Apollo and
Diana, shew the course of the yeere, and the day thereof,
being carried about in one yeere. The second part shewes
the yeere of our Lord, and of the world, the Equinoctiall
dayes, the houres of each day, the minutes of each houre ;
Easter day, and all other feasts, and the Dominicall Letter.
The third part hath the Geographicall discription of all
Germany, and particularly of Strasburg, and the names
of the Inventor, and of all the worke-men. In the middle
frame of the Clocke is an Astrolobe, shewing the signe in
which each Planet is every day; and there be the statuaes
of the seven Planets, upon a round piece of iron lying
flat, so as every day the statua of the Planet comes fbrth
that rules the day, the rest being hid within the frame, tB1
they come out by course at their day; as the Sun upon
64

COMMENTS UPON STRASSBURG
59 .
Sunday, and so for all the weeke. And there is a
terrestriall globe, and the quarter, and halle houre, and
the minuts are shewed. There is also the skull of a dead Statuaes on
man, and two statuaes of two boyes, whereof one turnes the Clocke.
the houre-glasse when the Clocke hath strucken, the other
puts forward the rod in his hand at each stroke of the
clocke. 5,1oreover there be statuaes of the spring,
summer, Autumne, and winter, and many observations
of the Moone. In the upper part of the clocke are foure
old mens statuaes, which strike the quarters of the houre,
the statua of death comming out each quarter to strike;
but being driven backe by the statua of Christ with a
speare in his hand, for three quarters, but in the fourth
quarter that of Christ goeth backe, and that of death
strikes the houre, with a bone in the hand, and then the
chimes sound. On the top of the clocke is an Image of
a Cock which twice in the day croweth alowd, and beateth
his wings. Besides, this clocke is decked with many rare
pictures, and being on the inside of the Church, carrieth
another frame to the outside of the wall, wherein the
houres of the Sunne, the courses of the 5,1oone, the
length of the day, and such like things are set out with
great Art.
Besides in the City there is a faire house, in which Otkernotable
citizens and strangers at publike meetings or otherwise, Sight.
use to feast their invited friends. Neere the gate
Rheinethore, is the Armory, vulgarly Zeighauss, which
aboundeth with Ordinance and all Munitions. They
have a Theater for Comedies, and a Tower to lay up
their treasure, called penny Tower, vulgarly Phennig-
thurne. They say this City is called Argentina in latine,
of the word Argentum, because the Romans of old lail
up their treasure here, and Strassburg in Dutch, of the
word strass (that is way) and Burg (that is City) as being
buil.t where many waies lead to many Provinces. I had
almost omitted one remarkeable thing, namely the faire
House of the Cannons, called Bruderhoff, that is the
Court of the Brethren.
. 65

Heiddberg
er.F
unhcalthfidl.

[I. i. 33-]

Epitaph to
Rodulphus
lgricola.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Monastery, and neere the same is a ruined Cloyster of
Nunnes (as commonly their nests were not farre distant)
and there is a passage under the Earth from one Cloyster
to another. This is a most high Mountaine, and hath a
thicke wood. The City of Heydelberg, by reason it is
compassed with Mountaines, hath a very unhealthfull
aire, which maketh Funerals very frequent therein; but
the water is held very healthfull. In the Innes they aske
seven batzen the meale, but the Students have their diet
in Citizens or Professors houses for two guldens, or one
doller weekely: and the fame of the Professors drew
many Students at this time to this University. There is
(to my remembrance) but one Church used for prayer and
preaching, and there is a monument with this inscription
in Latine,
] Viglius Suicherius laid this to the memory of
Rodulphus Agricola, borne in Friesland: he
died in the yeere x485, the 28 of October; he
lived 4-2 yeeres and two moneths.
There is another Epitaph to this Rodulphus Agricola,
made in verse by Hermolaus Barbarus Patriarke of
Aquilegia.
Invida clauserunt hoc marmore rata Rodulphum,
Agricolam, Frisii spemque decusque soli,
Scilicet hoc uno meruit Germania laudes,
Qicquid habet Latium, Grecia quicquid habet.
Envious Fates under this stone have closde
The Frisons joy Rodulph Agricola,
By whom all praise on Germans is imposde.
That Italy or Greece had to this day.
While I lived here the rest of this summer, I made a
journey of pleasure to see the Cities lying upon the West
side of the Rheine, and hiring a Horse after the wonted
price at Heydelberg, I rode two miles and a halfe to the
Rheines side, and then halle a mile further to the City
of Spire, where the imperiall chamber is held, in which
68

COMMENTS UPON WORMS

Court the chiefe differences of the Empire are judged,
and the Electors themselves, or any absolute Princes under
the Empire, may bee called thither to triall of law. The
City is built in a plaine, on the West side of Rheine, and
hath more antiquity then beauty, or magnificence. Here
I paid eight batzen each meale.
From hence I rode one mile to the City of Wormz,
famous for many imperiall Parliaments held there of old :
and by the way we passed Frankendale, a little City newly
and very fairely built, which place Casimire the Elector
gave unto the Flemmings of late, who then had built
many faire bricke houses there, and then compassed it
with a wall; and Casimire taking upon him the tutorship
of his Nephew, against the will of the Lutherans, who
rejected him as a Calvinist, tooke some of these Flem-
mings to guard the Castle of Heidelberg. The building of
Wormz shewes great antiquity, and wanteth not magnifi-
cence, where I paid seven Batzen a meale. This territory
on the West side of the Rheine is very fruitfull, and
yeeldeth the best Rhenish Wines, so called of the Rheine
by which they grow. From hence againe I passed the
Rheine, and returned to Heydelberg.
Then I tooke my journey to Franckfort Faire. The
first day I passed foure miles to Bentzon, having hils on
my right hand toward the East, planted with Vines, and
fields set with roots; and upon my left hand towards the
West, a faire and fruitfull plaine: and here I paid seven
Batzen for my supper. The second day in the morning
I passed foure miles in the territory of George Landgrave
of Hessen, to Arhelygen, through wooddy mountaines,
planted with some Vines, and a plaine for one mile sandy,
but the rest good pasture. We passed by Dormstat,
where the said Landgrave holds his Court, and there each
man paid sixe Fenning tribute. At Arheligen I paid sixe
Batzen for my dinner. In the afternoone I passed some
three miles to Franckfort, through a sandy plaine, and a
wood of Oakes and Beeches, and by the way they shewed
us a strange leape of a Stagge, which being chased, did
69

AoDo
I592.

ll'orraz.

4rkelygen.

Fran( k fort.

[I. i. 34-]

t Sanctuary
for bankrupts.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

leape over a cart (if you may beleeve them) loaded with
hey.
Franckfort is a free City of the Empire, famous for the
Electors meeting there, to choose the Emperour, and for
two yeerely Faires, as also for many larliaments of the
Empire held there, and it is called Franckfort upon the
Mene, to distinguish it from another City of the same
name, built upon the Brooke Odera, and named thereof.
For the River Mene running from the East to the West,
divideth the great City from the lesse called the Saxons
House, vulgarly Sachsen-hausse, and betweene them is a
bridge of stone upon foure narrow Arches. Both the
Cities are governed by the same Senate and Law, and
have the same name, either of Francus rebuilding it, or
of a Foord for passage of the Franckes or French. The
City is compassed strongly with a double wall, and upon
the East side is the gate Heilegthore, where is the Jewes
street, who are permitted to dwell in this famous Mart-
towne, and sucke the blood of Christians by extortion.
There is another gate called Freydigthore : On the North
side of the City is the gate Brickenport, and a large place
for an Horse Faire. On the West side is the gate of
strangers, vulgarly Welsh-thore, so called because the
French enter that way: it is very strong; and without
the gate there is a very pleasant walke upon the banke
of Mene, among Vineyards and Meadowes, with sweet
Groves. On the South side the Mene runneth by,
dividing (as I said) the new City from the old. In the
new or lesse City called the Saxons-house, is a house of
old belonging to the Teutonike order of Knights, which
by old priviledge is to this day a Sanctuary for banckrupts
and manslaiers, so they be not wilful and malicious
murtherers; but they enjoy this priviledge onely for
foureteene dales, so as when the time is neere out, or upon
any opportunity during the time, they use to steale out,
and returning after an houre, begin a new to reckon againe
the foureteene dales. A little before my comming thither,
a certaine bankrupt of Colen entered the same f3r a debt

COMMENTS UPON FRANKFORT

of twenty thousand Guldens. On this side some ground
without the wals belongs to the City, but on other sides
it hath almost no Land without the wals. The City is
of a round forme, seated in a large plaine, the streetes
are narrow, and the houses built of timber and clay, the
foundations of some being of stone. In the Innes they
aske seven or eight batzen a meale, but Merchants and
many strangers use to hire a chamber, and buy their meat
of the Cookes.
From hence to Hamburge I and foure others hired a
Coach for fifty Dollers, and besides were to pay for the
coach-mans diet, for here first the coach-man conditioned
to be free from paying his diet, vulgarly Maulfrey ; that is
free for the mouth, whereas in other parts our coach-men
paid for themselves. Alwaies understand that at the times
of the faires, Coaches are set dearer then any time els.
The first day after breakfast, wee went three miles to
Freideburge, through come fields set with cabages and
rootes, and by the way we passed a Village belonging to
the Count of Hanaw. Freideburge is a free City of the
Empire, and the buildings are of timber and clay: here
each man paid seven batzen for his supper, and for his part
of the coach-roans supper. The second day in the morn-
ing, we went three miles to Geysen, through fruitfull hils
of come. Phillip Landgrave of Hessen left three sonnes,
William of Cassiles, whom Maurice his sonne succeeded,
and was now living, axed Lodwicke of Marpurg, and
George of Dormstat. This territory belonged to the
Landgrave Lodwicke, (for all the brothers in Germany
have the same stile of honour) and he was also at that
time Lord of this City Geysell, which is fortified with wals
of earth, and deepe ditches, but the building, is base of
timber and clay, and for the most of meere clrt. These
verses were written upon the gate of the City.
Captus erat Princeps non marte sel Arte Philippus,
Cum bene munitum destrueretur opus.
Nominis hoc patrii Lodovicus amore refecit,
Anno his septem lustra sequente nono;
7I

I592.

Charges for
the Coack.

Freideburge.

Kirnham.

[L i. 35.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY"

Principe dignus honos, patrias surcire ruinas,
A quibus Hassiacos Christe tuere polos.
Prince Phillip captiv'de not by warre, but Art,
This worke of strength was then demolished;
In Countries love Prince Lodwicke for his part
Rebuilt it, seventy nine yeeres finished,
Ruines repaire is for a Princes hand,
From which disasters Christ shield Hessen land.
Iiere I paid sixe Batzen for my dinner, and my part
for the Coach-man.
In the afternoone we went three miles through high
stony mountaines and woods of oakes, to Kirnham,
belonging to the Landgrave Lodwicke, whose Court at
Marpurg lies a mile from thence. All of us at supper
drunke sixe measures of wine, besides beere, and from
henceforth wee paid severally for meat and drinke, and
at this time each of us paid ten Weissenfenning for both
together. The third day we passed three miles to Drest,
through high mountaines with woods of Oake, and many
fi'uitfull valleies of corne, and each man paid with his
portion for the Coach-man foure Weissenfenning for meat,
and as much for wine. This territory belongs to Land-
grave Maurice of Cassiles. After dinner we passed three
miles to Fesler, through high mountaines full of oake
woods, and entered the City, seated upon a mountaine
by a bridge of stone, upon which side great store of water
fals from the mountaines, the houses were of timber and
clay, each one for the most part having a dunghill at the
doore, more like a poore Village, then a City: but such
are the buildings of the Cities in Hessen, the houses of
Villages being of meere dirt, and thatched. Here eacti
man paid for his meat and old wine; and his part for the
Coach-man an Orts Doller, or fourth part of a Doller.
The fourth day we passed three miles to Cassiles, a
City where the Landgrave Maurice holds his Court, all
our way lying through fruitfull hils of corne. The City
is strongly fortified with wals of earth and deepe ditches,
7

COMMENTS UPON CASSEL

but the houses are basely built like the rest in Hessen.
Phillip his grandfather built the castle, and William his
father the wals. For my dinner and my part for the coach-
man I paide the fourth part of a Doller.
In the afternoone we passed two miles through woody
mountaines, to Myndaw, in the territory of the Duke of
Brunswike, who is also Lord of the City. The River
Visurgis runnes by it, over which there is a bridge of
stone upon five Arches. Here each man paid for himselfe
and his part for the coach-man, seven maria-groshen f'or
meat, and as much for wine. The beere of this territory
is very bitter, and like a potion makes one laxative. The
fifth day we passed three miles and a halfe, through
Mountaines for halfe the way, and the rest through corne
fields most fruitfull, and dined at Norton, each man paying
five batzen and a halle. After dinner we passed two
miles and a halle to a poore Village, through a like
ffuitfull plaine of come, and by the way we passed
Namerton, a City belonging to the Duke of Brunswicke.
In this Village each man paid five Maria-groshen. The
sixt day we passed two miles to the City Zeason, through
hils and fields of come, the building of the City is of
meere clay, covered with thatch, but our diet was plenti-
full, and each man paid sixe Maria-groshen for himselt,
and his part for the Coach-man. After dinner we passed
three miles to a poore village, through wooddy moun-
taines, yet fruit full of come and pasture, and through
a great Fen, and here each man paid seven Maria-
groshen.
The seventh day we passed three miles to Brunswike,
through a fruitfull plaine of come, end a large Fen set
with willow trees neere the City. Many fields as we
came besides the corne, were set with cabage and rootes,
and within a mile of Brunswike we left on the right hand
toward the South, the City Wolfenbieten, where the Duke
of Brunswike keepes his Court, and though he be so
called of an old title, yet he is not Lord o" Brunswike,
which is a free City of the Empire seated in a plaine, all
73

Norton.

Namerlon.

Brunswicke

.AoDo
I592.

Five Cities in
Brunswicke.

[I. i. 36.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the territory round about it being most fruitfull in corne.
The City is of a quadrangle forme, and in circuit containes
two miles, being held greater then Nurnberg, and lesse
then Erford. It hath high wals of earth fastened with
willowes, and is very strong, having the wals on some
sides double, and otherwhere treble, besides that it hath
a wooddy valley between deepe ditches filled with water,
and is compassed with the River Ancur. Within this
wall and river are five Cities, distinguished by priviledges,
but united by lawes. The first seated towards the west,
is called Altstat, that is Old city, having almost at the
entrance a faire market place, and neere it the cathedrall
Church, called Martinstifft. The second lying towards
the North, is called Newstat, that is New city. The third
lying towards the East is called Imsacke. The fourth
lying towards the South is called Imhagen. And the
fifth, which was built first of all, and lieth also towards he
South, is called Altweg, that is, The old way. This city
of old was the metropolitan city of Saxony, and had the
name of Bruno, and the Dutch word Vuick, signifying
a Village. It hath twelve Churches, whereof two have
the steeples covered with lead, which being very rare in
Germany, is held to be magnificent; the rest are covered
with tiles, one excepted, which (to my remembrance) is
covered with brasse, which being lesse rare with them is
lesse esteemed, and the houses are built of timber and
clay. In the yard of the Cathedrall Church there is a
statua of a very great Lion, which the Emperour Henry
the first, surnamed Lyon, erected there.
From Brunswike I went to Luneburge, and the first
day in the morning passed foure miles to a certaine Village,
through a sandy plaine, and fenny wild ground, and by
the way we passed Getherne a village, where the Duke of
Luneburge (Lord of this territory) hath a Castle, and he
holds his court some five miles off, at Sell. Here each
man paid for his dinner five Lubecke shillings. In the
afternoone we passed five miles to a countrey house,
through like Fenny and woody wild grounds, seeing but
74

FROM BRUNSWICK TO HAMBURG

one Village in the way; and here each man paid for
supper three Lubecke shillings. Next morning we passed
foure miles to a Village Empsdorff, through like grounds :
and here each man paid for dinner five Lubecke shillings,
the coach-mans part being reckoned: for I formerly said
that hiring a Coach from Franckfort to Hamburg, we
were tied to pay for the coach-mans diet, himselfe paying
for his horse-meat, as commonly they doe. After dinner
we passed three miles to Luneburge, through a soyle as
barren as the former, where each man paid for himselfe
and his part of the coach-mans supper, eight Lubecke
shillings. I speake nothing of the City, which I have
described before, but goe on with my journey.
The next morning we passed three miles to Wintzon,
through a Fenny ground, and woods of Oake, yeelding
some corne, but sparingly, and here our coach-man paid a
Lubecke shilling for his Coach to the Duke of Luneburge,
whose territory endeth here. Then we passed a mile
further to Bergendorff, and by the way our coach-man
passing over the Elve, paid a Lubecke shilling to the
Officers of the Cities of Lubecke and Hamburg, to which
Cities this territory is subject, and governed by them in
course, the soyle whereof after the passage of the Elve,
is more fruitfull, the fields being full of corne, and ditches
of water planted with willowes: here each man paid six
Lubecke shillings for our dinners. In the afternoone we
passed three miles to Hamburgc, having on the left side
towards the West, faire pastures, and on the right hand
towards the East, woods of oake, and fruitfull hils of
corne. From hence I passed by boat with a faire wind
in three houres to Stode, and paid for my passage three
Lubeck shillings. These things I briefly set downe,
having described these Cities before.

AoDo
x592.

Charger oJt
the way.

Hamburge.

[-From Stode

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

From Stode I wrote this Letter to Francis Mark-
ham, an English gentleman, whom I left at
Heidelberg.
A Letter to ",']'Oble Sir, I gladly take this occasion of witnessing
l;,'ancis 1 my love to you, which in a word I have done,
Markham. omitting all ceremonies as your selfe have given me
example: Onely for my promise sake, I will trouble you
with the short relation of my journey. When we parted
at Franckfort, you know I had for companions of my
journey two Flemmings, poore Merchants of Linnen
cloth, and a Dutch Rider, and a Booke-binder of Den-
marke. I comming first to the Coach, tooke the most
commodious seat, which these my worthy companions
(forsooth) tooke in ill part, yet neither their murmuring
nor rude speeches could make me yeeld the place to them.
Wee passed through Hessen to Brunswike, which journey
since you purpose to take, I advise you to passe as soone
as you can, that you may be out of your paine, and come
to more pleasant Countries: for there you shall have
HatdFare. grosse meat, sower wine, stinking drinke, and filthy beds,
and were not the way free from robberies, and the people
curteous, I know not what other inconvenience might
happen to a stranger in any passage. Your diet shall be
for most part of cole worts, which was so strange to me,
and so hard of digestion, as it greatly troubled me, and
wrought upon my body like physicke. At Brunswike I
saw a lamentable sight, which I dare scarce relate to you,
knowing your tendernes in those cases, yet for promise
sake I must tell you, that I saw a very faire maide of
fifteene yeeres, married to mine Host an old churle of
seventy yeeres. Be not discouraged, I will tell you a
Amerry merry accident. Who would have thought that my
4ccident. companions had dissembled so long their malice to mee,
that now it might breake forth with more bitternes ? You
know Brunswike is a free city of the Empire, and one
of those, which for priviledge of trafficke upon these
coasts, are called Hans-steten. Here out of custome
76

LETTER TO FRANCIS MARKHAM A.D.
I592.
passengers comming at first to enter trafficke, use to give
the wine to the old Merchants, to which custome gentle-
men for sociablenes have submitted themselves, so as the [I. i. 37.]
custome is almost growne into a Law. Now, for this
purpose, salt being pt about the table, for all to sweare
whether they were free or no, I confessed that I had not
yet paied for my freedome, yeelding my self to their
censure. To be briefe; after they had fined me some
cannes of wine, and with many ceremonies, had made
me free, it remained that he whom they had chosen to
be my God-father, making a grave Oration, with some
rude jeasts after their fashion, should instruct me with
some precepts how to recover this expence. One of my
companions easily tooke this charge upon him; and after
many circumstances, he concluded in this manner: You /t gra,e
are an Englishman, and because your countrey men love Oration.
to sit easily, and to fare delicately, I advise you, that
both at table and in coach, you be carefull to take the
best place, which if you be diligent to performe, you shall
bee soone satisfied for this expence. By chance my place
then at table was betweene the coach-man and his servant,
for you know the Dutch are not curious of place, and little
regard strangers in that kinde; but I knew where my
Gentlemans shooe wrung him, namely in that I had chosen
my place in the coach. And thus I answered him; Sir /1 wise
I take thankefully your grave counsell, and will make /1nswer.
use of it ; but me thinkes it is too generall, making no
distinction of degrees, for if I have Gentlemen to my
companions, who are not willingly overcome in courtesie,
I should rather yeeld them place: but if I fall into base
and clownish company, I will not faile to make use of
your counsell. The Gentlemen at Table smiled, and
so we ended this ceremony with a health. Hence
I passed to Luneburg, and so to Hamburg; where
the people after dinner, warmed with drinke, are
apt to wrong any strang.er, and hardly indure an
English-man in the morning when they are sober.
Therefore without any stay, I passed hence to Stode. It
77

A.D. FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY
592.
Railers on is strange how the people raile on English-men in these
Englishmen. parts. For that which we call warre at sea, and the royalI
Navy, that they terme robbery and Pirats ships: neither
have they the patience to heare any justification or excuse.
You see what toyes I write, rather then I will leave you
unsaluted, and if you use not like freedome to me, farewell
friendship. So I take my leave, from Stode the first of
October, r 592.
From Stode I passed to Emden, and for the better
explaning of that journey, give mee leave to prefix the
following Letter; out of the due place, being written
from Emden, and directed

./Egidius
Hoffrman.

Land
Dangets.

To _/Egidius Hoffman, a Gentleman of Flaunders,
my deare friend, Student at Heidelberg.
'Oble ]Egidius, the Letters you gave me to deliver
at Breme, have produced a comicall event, (such
may all the passages be of our love,) which you shall
understand in a word. When in my purposed journey
I came to Stode, more tired with the base companions
I had, then the way; it happened, whilest I spent some
dayes there with nay friends, every man spake of Spanish
theeves, vulgarly called Freebooters, who stealing out of
their Garrisons upon the Low-countries, lay in the villages,
and upon the high-wayes, by which I was to passe in my
journey to Emden, from which Citie a Merchant was
newly arrived, who terrified me more then all the rest,
affirming that in one day he had fallen thrice into these
cut-throtes hands, and though he were of a neutrall City,
yet had paled many Dollers for his ransome, adding,.t.hat
they inquired curiously after English-men, prom.smg
rewards in the villages, to any man should give them
notice when any such passed. I knew not what counsell
to take. There was no lesse danger from the Pirats of
Dunkirke, if I passed by sea, especially in a ship of
Hamburg, no other being in the harbour, & they being
like to betray me, out of malice to our nation. Besides,
78

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

would have locked the doore, I took my Letters againe,
saying I had promised to deliver them with my owne
hand; and so I entred with him, and gave them into the
hands of your mother and sister, who inquired much after
you, and so much after my master, as I might perceive
you had made friendly mention of me in your Letters.
They entertained me with much curtesie, being thus
disguised for my owne servant; and when I went away
your mother would needs give mee six batzen to spend,
neither would any refusall prevaile, but I must needs
take them. So I set a marke upon these peeces, lest I
should spend them; and am not out of hope, ere I die,
to shew them to you. To the purpose; at the dore I
met your brother, whom I had seene at Frankfort, and
was not a little afraide lest for all my disguising, he would
have knowne me. Let it not trouble you, that I tell you
Another another merry accident I had in the same City of Breme.
merry Disguised as I was, I went to the house of Doctor
accident. Peuzelius, desiring to have the name of so. famous a
Divine, written in my stemme-booke, with his Mott, after
the Dutch fashion. Hee seeing my poore habite, and a
booke under my arme, tooke me for some begging
Scholler, and spake sharpely unto me. But when in my
masters name I had respectively saluted him, and told
him my request, he excused his mistaking, and with all
curtesie performed my desire. I will trouble you no
longer, but hope by some good occasion to imbrace you,
& tell you all the other passages of my journey. In the
meane time I go. forward to Leyden in Holland, you
(as you do) ever love me, and as my soule, live and
farewell. From Emden the twenty one of October, 1592.

I paied twenty foure Stivers for my passage eleven miles
in a waggon from Stode to Breme. And the first day
after breakefast, wee passed three miles to Ford, a poore
Citie, subject to the Bishop of Breme: t.hrough wilde,
fenny, and woody grounds. The Towne is seated in a
Fenne, having a long paved Causey to passe unto it ; and
8o

COMMENTS UPON BREMEN

the gate being opened to us by night, each man gave
the Porter two Lubeck shillings, and by the way in a
village each man paied, six Fenning for his person. At
Ford the Bishop of Breme hath a Castle, strongly fortified
with Rampiers of earth, and deepe ditches full of water;
and here each man paied for his supper three Lubeck
shillings and a halle. The waggoner taking me thus .4 waggoner
disguised (as formerly I have said) for a poore Bawre; deceived.
said these words to me in Dutch: Du knecht hilff zu
tragen die packe hye: that is Ho good fellow, helpe here
to carry this pack; I answered, ya gar gern, yea most
willingly; and smiling laied my shoulder to the burthen,
and groned deepely, but helped him very little. Next
morning early, by Moone light, we passed on three miles,
through large and wilde woods, to a Countrey house;
and by the way my companions fell in talke of English
affaires, so foolishly, as my laughter, though restrained,
had often betraied me; if twi-light had not kept mee
from being seene. Their ignorance greatly shortned my
way, with the pleasure I took in their answeres to some [I. i. 39-]
such questions propounded by me, whereof my selfe had
many times beene forced to give an account to others.
By the way they shewed mee a Hill called Meineidig, 4 sinking
of certaine false witnesses, of old sinking there into the ill.
ground. At this Countrey house, each man paied for
his breakfast three Lubeck shillings and a halle. Then
from sixe of the clocke in the morning, till nine, we passed
five miles to Breme; through an Heath, and many huge
Woods of Oake; having towards the South a Fenne of
tenne miles length, which of the vastnesse and wildenesse,
is called the Divels Fenne. By the way within a mile of
Breme, each man paied halle a Sesling tribute, to the
officers of the City ; and from thence wee passed a winding
paved Causey, to the very City. Men may also passe
from Hamburg to Breme by water.
This Citie is one of the Imperiall free Cities, and of B,'eme.
them which upon this Sea-coast, are called Hans-steten,
for freedome of trafficke, and it is very strongly fortified
M ! 8! F

x592.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

with high walles of earth, and deepe ditches filled with
water: besides that the Citizens may drowne the Fenny
fields almost round about at pleasure. The building of
this, as also of the neighbour Cities; is partly of bricke,
partly of stone, and very faire, but the streets heere are
filthy. The Citie is five miles distant from the sea; And
the river Visurgis running from the South-east to the
North West, by the South west side of the City runneth
al the length of the same. On the North east side, the
7e ,lls ,, walles of earth are broad, and there bee three faire gates,
gates, with strong Rampiers. Upon the South West side, being
compassed all with Fennes, there bee no walles. In the
furthest angle or corner towards the North west, where
the City growes narrow there is a strong Fort built,
& the gate is within an Iland, beyond which lies a plaine
of faire pastures. Osen-bridge lies not farre hence, from
which towne .reat quantity of narrow linnen cloth is
brought into England. At Breme I paied halle a Doller
for dinner, supper and breakfast; and a stiebkin or
measure of wine extraordinary.
The custome They had heere also the custome of making strangers
of making free, and the same ceremony of giving salt to sweare by;
strangers free. and I confessing t.hat I was not free, committed my fine
to their censure, hoping they would deale better with
mee, for my poore disguised habit, but it saved me
nothing; the chiefe man saying to mee in Dutch: Gutt
gesell du must gedult haben, es gelt gleich bistu knecht
oder here, deise gewonheit betrefft beyde zu gleich. That
is, good fellow thou must have patience, it is all one
whether thou beest a servant or a master, this custome
toucheth both alike.
After dinner, taking nay journey from Breme, wee
passed a mile upon a stony Causey, called Steinweck,
that is, stony way ; and there each man paled to the officers
of Breme, a quarter of a Stiver. Then entering the
Territory of the Grave (that is Count) of Oldenburg, we
passed a mile through falre pastures, compassed with
ditches of water, to a village, where each man paid a
82

COMMENTS UPON OLDENBURG

Sesling to the Count, and to this place each man paid. for
his Waggon five groates. Here when my compamons
had drunke their fill, and had slept a while in the straw,
as my selfe did upon a bench, to shun the stinking heat
of the stove, we hyred another waggon for three miles,
paying fifteene groats: and that we might more securely
passe, wee tooke our ]'ourney at midnight, through a heath
of huge woods of Oake, and came to Oldenburge, early
in the morning before the gates were open.
The Citie is built of meere clay, but the Counts Castle
is built in a round forme of stone, with deepe ditches of
water, over which they passe by a drawing bridge, and
both the Castle and the City are strongly fortified.
Heere we had English beere, the goodnesse whereof made
my companions speake much in honour of England, and
of the Q.geene, with much wonder that shee being a
Virgine, was so victorious against the Spaniards, till in
this discourse they all fell fast asleepe.
After breakfast the next morning, wee having hired a
waggon for eighteene groates, passed route miles in the
territory of the said Count; and one mile to Stickhausen,
in the territory of the Count of Emden, who had a Castle
there. Then because we could get no waggon in this
place, wee went one mile further on foot, which being
very long, and my selfe having some gold Guldens in
my shooes, which I could not remove without suspicion;
the way was very irkesome to mee, and we came to a
countrey house, but wee found good cheere, each man
paying for his supper seven groates. My selfe sitting last
at the table, by reason of my poore habit, paied as much
as the best, and fedde on the worst, but I had more minde
of my bed, then of my meat. And one of my com-
panions after supper, having streight boots, when I had
taught him to pull off one by the helpe of a staffe, for
recompence of my counsell, desired mee to pull off the
other, which being disguised as I was, I could not well
refuse. The next morning we hired a waggon for eleven
stivers, and passed a long mile to Leere, a towne subiect
83

Oldenbu.

[I. i.

Poor kabit
and wore

Spanish
Free-booters.

Hans Jacob
the Captaine
of te
Freebooters.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

to the Count of Emden, who dwelt not far off, at Dunort
a strong Castle. Our way through a Fen, was so deepe,
as the waggon wheeles being pulled off, we went good
part of the way on foot.
Here we understood that the Spanish Free-booters
(called by the English, Male-contents) lay at Aurick,
another castle of the said Count, and being loded with
booty, had taken a barke by force, to passe over the Emsz.
These cut-throates used at this time to raunge out of the
Spanish Garrisons upon the Low-countries, & to spoile
all passengers in these parts, which they did with
more confidence, because the Count of Oldenburg, being
offended with the Citizens of Breme, permitted these
theeves to rob them, who were also very malicious against
those of Breme, because they had lately taken thirty foure
Free-booters; and beheading them altogether, had set
up their heads upon stakes. Besides the Count of Emden
having beene lately drivenout of Emden by the Citizens
in a tumult about religion, did permit these Free-booters
to lie in his Country, and spoyle the Merchants of that
City. The chiefe Captaine of the Free-booters then lying
at Aurick was Hans Jacob, a notable roge, and very
malicious to the English, whom he used to spoyle of their
very apparell, & to handle them cruelly; mocking them
with these English words ; I cannot tell, and swearing that
he would make them tell, both of themselves, and of
their countrey men passing that way. Some few dayes
before hee had taken foure English wollen clothes, and
many Flemmish linnen clothes; which they divided by
the length of a ditch, in stead of a better measure, and
we were glad to heare that in this division they fell at
variance, for when this Hans Jacob would have stopt a
part, for the chiefe Captaine of the Garrison, the rest cryed
out in Dutch: Wir wollen dein mawger kopff lieber in
zwey kleiben : Stelen wir fur andern und hangen fur uns
selbs ? That is, wee will rather cleave thy leane pate in
two. Shall we steale for others and hang for our selves ?
And they used many reproches against him and their chiefe
84

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

upon the top of the Banke, lying upon an arme of the
Sea, or rather upon the River Emsz running into the Sea,
and in this passage the tempestious winde was like to beare
us over, and blinded us with driving salt water into our
eyes, besides that wee went over the shooes in dirt. The
second passage was on the side of the banke, from the
water, somewhat fairer then the other, but in that most
troublesome, that wee were forced continually to leane
upon a staffe, which every one had in his hand, lest being
not staied with th staffe, we should fall into the lower
way, which was intolerably dirty. The lower way, or
D,,gerous third passage, in the bottome of the banke furthest from
p,,ge, the water, was for the passage of waggons, but the fields
round about being overflowed in winter, this passage was
now intolerably dirty. In this way we passed a very long
mile, from the little City Leere, to the Village Aldernsea,
from seven of the clocke in the morning to twelve. We
came out at first tenne companions in this journey, but
at the very comming out of Leere, six of them left us,
despairing to passe against a contrary winde, in a foule
rainy day, and their feet sticking fast in the dirt, and they
mocked at our obstinacy in going. Within a while, my
selfe was wet to the skinne, and my shoes at every
step, were almost torne off, so as I was forced to
binde them on with foure points, neither did any of
us looke backe at his fellow, to helpe him if hee could
not follow, and if I should have fallen into the Sea,
I am confident none of them would have come back
to succour me. After we had gone halfe a mile, one
of our foure companions, being a yong man with a blacke
beard, & able body, would not goe one foot further, though
he had but one Stiver in his purse, and was forced to
borrow money of us, that he might stay in a poore Ale-
Freebooter house. When we came to Aldernsea, the Free-booters
sidles, spies, came to the Inne & gaped upon us, so as though
I were wet to the skin, yet I durst not pull off any thing
to dry, lest my inward garments better then my upper,
should betray my disguise: neither durst I call for wine
86

COMMENTS UPON EMDEN

and spend freely lest they should thinke I had store of
money. Each of us paied seven Stivers for his dinner.
Here another of our companions left us, being so tired,
as hee went to bed without eating one bit. So as now I
had onely one companion left, called Anthony, a man of
little stature, and a Citizen of Emden. We to be free
of this dangerous journey, went forward, and as we came
out of the Village, the Free-booters spies came close to
us, and beheld us narrowly; but seeing us all covered
with dirt, they tooke us for poore men, and a prey unfit
to be followed. Wee gathering up strength went on,
till at last wee were so weary, as having no strength to
chuse our way, wee cast away our staves, and went almost
up to the knees in dirt, in the lower way.
At last, having gone one mile (as me thought wondrous
long) from one of the clocke in the afternoone to five,
wee came to Emden, where my selfe entring the gate,
could not stand till the Souldiers writ our names, but
had lyen downe on the ground if they had not given mee
a seat. Now being out of all danger of the Free-booters,
in giving my name, I wrote my selfe an English-man;
the standers by not a little wondring, that I had put my
self to this dangerous passage. And truly this journey,
if it were free from all danger ; yet the ill diet and lodging
would yeeld trouble enough, for which I appeale to
Lipsius, who hath pleasantly written of the entertainement
in West-phalen, and Oldenburg. The Citie of Emden
lies in the utmost border of the Empire, and is onely
divided by the River Emsz, from the united Province of
Netherland, and by an inland Sea from West Freez-land,
being one of them. The Countrey about Emden
aboundeth with villages, and from a Tower at Goricome,
a man may see at once upon a faire day, twenty two
walled Townes. Not farre from this City, neere
Immengen, is the place where the Duke of Alva defeated
the forces of Lodwick of Nassaw, his Dutch-men refusing
to fight, except they were first paied. All the fields about
Emden are drowned in winter, and the City lying upon
87

l bundance
of Villages.

[I. i. 42.]
Curteous
Citizens.

Charges at
Emden.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the Sea; for want of flesh waters they dresse most of
their meat with raine water. The aire is very unhealth-
full, but the City is fairely built of bricke, and the Citizens
are very curteous. On the South side the River Emsz
washeth the City with his salt streames, on which side is
the Haven, and the Citizens are said to have some three
score ships of a hundred tunnes a peece, and some six
hundred barkes of their owne. In the Church-yard on
this side, many peeces of Ordinance are laid, towards
Leere and Dunort the Counts Fort, and the like are laid
upon the Haven, and some places of advantage: for the
City hath no walles on this side. On the West side,
beyond the water lyeth Marish ground to the mouth of
the Sea, and upon this side is a strong old Castle. On
the North side the City is compassed with a wall of earth,
and deepe ditches full of water, and there be two strong
gates, Belgar-port, and New-port, without which the fields
are Fenny. On this side there is a passage by boat, to
the suburbes on the East side, where the fields without
the towne are faire pastures in summer, but all over-
flowed in winter; and upon the Rampier of the wall, are
many Winde-mils. The City is of a round forme, if it
were not somewhat longer from the East to the West.
At Emden they pay ordinarily six Stivers a meale, three
stivers for a quart of English beere, eleven Stivers for a
quart of Spanish wine, thirteene Stivers a quart of Rhenish
wine, and seven Stivers for French wine: my selfe paid
for supper and breakfast twenty three Stivers.

COMMENTS UPON HARLINGEN

I592.

receive them backe when they goe out of the Towne.
The Villages hereabouts paid yeerely contribution to the
Spanish garison of Groning, lest they should breake in,
and spoile them. Here (they say) the first sermon of
reformed religion was made, in the Monastery of the
Jacobines: and here I paid for my supper foureteene
stivers.
From Lewerden we went by water from eight a clocke
in the morning, to five in the afternoone, two miles to
Froniker, an University of Friesland, lately renewed, and Fronic,'.
one mile to the City Harlingen, and we paid six stivers Harlingcr..
for our passage. Entering this City, we left our swords
with the guard of souldiers, who restored them to us
when wee went away. It is a little City, and lieth in
length from the East to the West, but is somewhat more
narrow towards the North, where the houses are thinly
built. On the west and North sides, lies an arme of the
Sea, comming out of the German Sea, and here inclosed
with the continent and Ilands. On the South and East
sides without the gates, are faire pastures in a large plaine.
I lodged in an Englishmans house, the chiefe Host of the 4,
City, who either dispising England and Englishmen, or Hot.
too much respecting his masters of Friesland, gave me
such entertainment, as I tooke him for one of the old
Picts: for having placed his gentlemen of Friesland at
one table, he called me to the second, and seeing that
I tooke it in ill part, lest I should no lesse dislike my
lodging, he intreated a gentleman of Friesland to admit
me partner of his bed, but I hearing the gentleman con-
dition with him about the cleannesse of my body and
linnen, for very scorne would not trouble his worship, but
chose rather to lie upon a bench. And it was most
ridiculous, that this Host excused himselfe to me, as
having for countries sake made bold with me, whom he
had never seene before. I paid for my supper and
breakefast with wine, thirty stivers, and one of my
consorts drinking no wine, paid sixeteene, whereof nine
was for beere.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

most of the Cities in these Provinces have like houses.
Here I lodged with an English-man, and paid for dinner
and supper twenty stivers, and for a guest invited to
supper, ten stivers, and for three pints or chopines of
Spanish wine, twenty one stivers.
From Amsterdam I went in a boat three miles to
Harlam, and paid for my passage foure stivers: we had
not passed farre from Amsterdam, when we came to a
Dammesfor damme, shutting out the flowing of the sea, for the waters
sutting out are salt thus farre, though the ebbing and the flowing of
tZe sea. the sea can hardly be discerned at Amsterdam, for the
depth of the River Tay; and because Inland seas shew
little ebbing or flowing. Our boat was lifted over this
damme by ropes, and so let fall into the water on the
other side, for which the Mariners paid tribute. There
is another damme for greater Barkes, and as by these
dammes they let in waters to the Land at pleasure, so
they have other dams at Torgay to let them out againe
into the Sea, when the Land hath too much water. From
hence we had the Sea-shore all the way on the North side,
not farre distant, and on both sides of the water in which
we passed, were faire pastures, parted with ditches of
water.
The River running from Amsterdam, from the East
[I. i. 45-] to the North, doth turne neere Harlam towards the South,
Harlam. and divideth the City, which on all sides is compassed with
Navigable waters. On the North side neere the gate
Jans-port, Don Frederick, sonne to the Duke of Alva,
pitched his tent in a meadow, when he besieged the City
with the Spanish forces, and much spoiled those parts,
beating downe Gentlemens faire houses (dwelling fre-
quently in that part) with his Artillery, playing into this
street, having the name of the Knights of Saint John.
On the same side are two other gates, Sayle-port, and
Cruyse-port, and without them toward the sea, being
halle a mile distant, are very faire pastures, but there is no
river nor ditch that leads from the City to the sea. For
these Provinces have onely three passages to goe to sea:
94

Leyden.

Charges far

[I. i. 46.]

Leyden.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

their leaves of the Virgins. And in the mid way towards
Almer, is another Hil, where the Counts of Holland were
wont to bee consecrated. In the market-place, over
against the Pallace, they shew the house for one Laurance
John, whom they brag to bee the first inventor of the
Presse for Printing ; and they shew two bels of the brasse
of Corinth, which they say were brought from Pelusium, a
City in Affrick upon the Nyle.
From Harlam wee hired a waggon for eight stivers,
and came five miles in five houres space, to Leyden, our
waggoner baiting his horses in the mid way, but staying
very little. In the way we had on all sides faire pastures,
and passed by the Lake, or Mere of Harlam, lying
towards the South, and the sea bankes within sight
towards the North. The high wayes in these Provinces
seeme to be forced, and made by Art; being sandy and
very dry, though all the pastures on both sides bee
compassed with frequent ditches of water. At the gates
of Leyden, the men goe out of the waggon, and onely
women may be carried into the City, lest (as I thinke) the
wheeles of the loaded waggons, should breake the bricke
pavements of the streets.
Hence I returned presently to Amsterdam, that I might
receive money sent me by exchange. So I hired a waggon
for eight stivers my part, from hence to Harlam, and
by the way I observed, that the waggons having past
more then halle the way, must have the way given them
by all the waggons they meet, because their horses should
in reason be most weary. At Harlam I paled for supper,
bed, and breakfast, twenty five stivers. Hence I went
by waggon, and paled for my part of it sixteene stivers,
for three miles to Amsterdam, and there receiving my
money, returned to Harlam, drawne over the snow and
ice (which had plentifully fallen) on a sledge: for which
I paid foure stivers; and I observed many markes set up
in the fields, to direct the way to passengers.
From Harlam I returned to Leyden, where I lodged
in a French-roans house, for intending to bestow all my
96

I Roman
.4rmory
covered with
sand.

Leyden.

..4n. 93-

[I. i. '1-7-]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

on the maine sea. Upon the same shore further towards
the North, is a place where they say the. Romans of old
had an Armory, the ruines whereof (some musket shot
from the shore) more or lesse appeare, as the wind covers
them with sand, or blowing from another quarter, drives
away the sand, and so hies them open. Hereabouts they
say that many coines of the Romans are oftentimes digged
up, and neere the Hoch-landish Church is a Monument
built by Caligula the Emperour, which now belongs to a
Gentleman of that Countrey. Upon the North side of
this city the Villages Warmond and Nortwicke, lie upon
the. aforesaid Downes, but the City hath no gate that
directly leades to them. Leyden hath five gates, Regens-
purgport, on the West side, which leadeth to Harlam,
and to Catwicke; and white port which leadeth to Hage,
betweene which gates there is a low water-gate of iron
grates, for boates to passe in and out. Neere White Port
lies a house, where they exercise shooting with the Peece
and Crosse-bow. On the South side is the gate Kow-
port, leading into the pastures. Upon the East side is
the gate Hochwertz-port, more fortified then any of the
rest, and it leadeth to Uberden, Gonda, and to Alphen.
There is another gate Zillport, which leadeth to Utretcht.
whither you passe by water or land. The foresaid street,
which I said was the beauty of the Towne, lieth from the
West to Hochwertzport, on the East side, and is called
Breitstrat, that is Broadstreete.
In the spring time of the yeere 593- purposing to see
the Cities of the united Provinces, I hired a Waggon for
sixe stivers, and went from Leyden to Delph, three miles
in three houres space, through corne fields and rich
pastures, and having gone two third parts of the way, we
passed over the water that runnes from Leyden to Delph.
In all these parts the high way hath ditches on both sides,
and is very plaine, sandy, and very dry, being daily
repaired by the countrey people.. By the way is a mill,
in which they make oyle of rape and line seedes minglec]
with wallnut shels, and they have many such mills in those
9 8

COMMENTS UPON DELFT

parts. Not farre of, at Voberg, the Histories write of a
holy Grove, famous for a conspiracy against the Romans.
The City of Delph, lyeth in length from the North to
the South, and the fairest street called Come-mart, lies
the same way. Here (as in all the Cities of these parts)
the buildings are of bricke, but the houses of Delph are
more stately built, and seeme to have more antiquity then
other where. In the New Church is a Monument of the
Prince of Orange, the poorest that ever I saw for such a
person, being onely of rough stones and morter, with
posts of wood, coloured over with black, and very little
erected from the ground. Neere the Church is a large
market-place, and within a little Iland the Senate house
is built. The Haven is on the South side. The Prince
of Orange dwelt heere in a Monastery, and used to eat in
a low parlor, whence as he ascended the staires into the
chamber, a wicked murtherer gave him his deaths wound,
who flying by a backe doore, was after taken in the Citie,
and put to a most cruell, but most deserved death. The
Countesse of Buren, daughter to this said Prince, now
lived in this Monastery with her family. Here I paied
for one meale, for my selfe and a guest invited by me,
and two pots of Rhenish wine, three guldens, and five
stivers. When the Spanish Army most pressed the united
Provinces, the Prince of Orange then lying here, to
shunne a greater mischiefe from the Spaniards, brake
downe the bankes of the sea, and let in the waters, which
did much hurt to the Countrey, but saved them from
the Spaniards, who with great feare hasted away, giving
great rewards to those that guided them to the firme
continent. At Delph are about three hundred Brewers,
and their beere, for the goodnesse, is called Delphs-
English; but howsoever they had Brewers, and the very
water out of England, they could never make their beere
so much esteemed as the English, which indeed is much
bettered by the carriage over sea to these parts.
Hence I went to Sluse, so called of the damme to let
waters in and out, and came thither in two houres, paying
99

Delp.

TAe Printe
of Orange
murdered.

The Countrey
drowned to
drowne the
Spaniards.

Brill.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

for my waggon thirteene stivers, which I hired alone, for
if I had light upon company, we should have paied no
more betweene us. Hence I passed the River Mase,
where it falleth into the sea, and came to Brill, my selfe
and two others, paying twelve stivers for our passage:
but the barke being presently to returne, and therefore
not entring the Port, set us on land neere the Towne,
whether we walked on foot.
Brill is a fortified Towne, laid in pledge to Qeene
Elizabeth, for money she lent the States, and it was then
kept by foure English Companies paid by the Qeene,
under the government of the Lord Burrowes. The
Towne is seated in an Iland, which was said to bee
absolute of it selfe, neither belonging to Zealand, nor
Holland. On the North side, the River Mase runnetl'i
by. On the East side are corne fields, and the River
somewhat more distant. On the South side are corne
fields. On the West side are corne fields, and the maine
Sea little distant. Here I paied for my supper and dinner
twenty stivers, and for a pot of wine eighteene stivers.
From hence I returned by water to Roterodam in
Holland, and paled for my passage three stivers. In the
mouth of the River of Roterodam, lies the City Arseldi-
pig, and another called Delphs-Ile, being the Haven of
Delph, which was then a pleasant Village; but growing
to a City, and having beene lately burnt by fire, was
fairely rebuilded.
Roterodam lies in length from the East to the West.
The Haven is on the South side, being then full of great
ships; upon which side it lay open without walles, having
many faire houses, and a sweet walke upon the banke
of the water. Neither is it fortified on the sides towards
the land, nor seemed to mee able to beare a siege ; having
low walles on the North and East sides, yet compassed
with broad ditches. The street Hoch-street is faire and
large, extending it selfe all the length of the Citie; and
lying so, as from the gate at the one end, you may see
the gate at the other end, and in this street is the Senate

I593.

frequented
by Hearnes.

Getruden-
berg.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

flowes into it, and upon old walles of stone is a convenient
walking place. On this side is the gate Spey-port, and
beyond the ditch lye fenny grounds. On the West side
is the gate Feld-port, and a like walke upon walles of
stone, and there is a greater ebbing and flowing of the
sea. There is a great Church built of bricke, and covered
with slate; being stately built with Arched cloysters, and
there of old the Counts of Holland were consecrated.
From this part the two fairest streets Reydike-strat, and
Wein-strat, lie windingly towards the North. Turning
a little out of the faire street Reydike-strat, towards the
South, lies the house for exercise of shooting in the Peece
& Crosse-bow, and there by is a very pleasant grove;
upon the trees whereof certaine birds frequent, which we
call Hearnes, vulgarly called Adhearne or Regle, and their
feathers being of great price, there is a great penalty .set
on them, that shall hurt or annoy those birds. There is a
house which retaines the name of the Emperor Charles
the rift, and another house for coyning of money; for
the Counts of Holland were wont to coyne money at Dort,
as the Counts of Zealand did at Midleburg. Betweene
the faire streets, Reydike-strat and Wein-strat, is the
Haven for ships, to be passed over by bridges, and there
is a market place, and the Senate house; which hath a
prospect into both these streets. The houses are higher
built then other where in Holland, and seeme to be of
greater Antiquity. This Citie by priviledge is the staple
of Rhenish wines, which are from hence carried to other
Cities, so as no imposition being here paied ffir the same,
the pot of Rhenish wine is sold for twelve stivers, for
which in other places they pay eighteene, or twenty
stivers. For three meales I paied heere thirty stivers.
From hence I went by water to the States Campe,
besieging Getrudenberg, and came thither in two houres
space, but the windes being very tempestuous, wee saw a
boat drowned before us, out of which one man onely
escaped by swimming, who seemed to me most wretched,
in that bee over-lived his wife and all his children then

IO2

COMMENTS UPON BERGEN-OP-ZOOM

drowned. The besieged City lies in the Province of
Brabant ; and the County of Buren, being the inheritance
of the Prince of Orange, by right of his wife; and in
this Month of June, it was yeelded to Count Maurice,
the Spanish Arm)" lying neere, but not being able to
succour it.
The Sea lying upon this part of Brabant, was of old
firme land, joined to the continent, till many villages by
divers floods (and seventeene Parishes at once by a famous
flood) were within lesse then 2cc. yeeres agoe swallowed
up of the Sea, and for withes of this calamity, divers
Towers farre distant the one from the other, appeare in
this Sea, and according to the ebbing and flowing, more
or lesse seene, doe alwaies by their sad spectacle put the
passengers in mind of that wofull event. And the
Hollanders say, that these flouds caused the Rheine to
change his bed, as hereafter I shall shew in the due place.
From Count Maurice his Campe at Getrudenberg, I
sailed in six houres space to the Iland Plate, and at
midnight putting forth againe, sailed in ten houres space
to the Iland Tarlot, and from thence in three houres space
to the City Bergenapzome, where we landed. By the
way we saw one of the aforesaid Towers high above the
water, being a steeple of some parish Church swallowed
up in the said deluge, of which there be many like sal
remembrances in this Inland sea. The channel] leading
to the City is called Forcemer, and hath upon the banke
many strong forts, and in this channell lay a man of warre
to defend passengers from the bordering enemy. This
City is strongly fortified, and is seated in Brabant, and had
many castles of the enemy lying neere it, and it was
governed by a garison of English, not in the Qeenes,
but in the States pay, as Ostend at that time was (whereas
Vlishing and Brill pledged to the Qeen for money, were
kept by English Garisons in the Qeenes pay) and Sir
Thomas Morgan was at this time Governour of this City.
At our entrance every man gave his name to the Guard.
Without the City on the West side, many akers of land

I593-

[I. i. 49.]
Many .villages
swallowed up
oft& sea.

.4 garhon
of English.

COMMENTS UPON FLUSHING

but the aire is reputed unwholsome. Midleburge is the
chiefe place of trafficke in Zealand, as Amsterdam in
Holland.
From hence I went in a long Waggon covered with
hoopes and cloth to Vlishing, a long mile; and paid for
my passage two blankes. Ten English foot companies,
one hundred and fifty in each company, under the govern-
ment of Sir Robert Sidney, kept this strong Towne for
the Qqeene of England, and under her pay; being
ingaged to her for money lent the States, and the ten
Captaines in course watched each third night. The City
is little and of a round forme, but very strong. It hath
a narrow Sea on the West side, where, upon the last
confines of Zealand and the united Provinces, is one of
the three passages (whereof I formerly spake) to the
Maine Sea. On this side is the Mountaine of the Mill,
where the Souldiers watch nightly, and beyond the
Mountaine is a damme to let in the Sea at pleasure. On
the South side is the Gate Waterport, strongly fortified,
lying upon the Inland Sea. On this side towards the
North, the Sea flowing into the Towne, maketh one
Haven, and towards the East another, and divideth the
City into three parts, the Old, the New, and the Middle,
whereof any one being taken by the enemy, yet the other
are fortified for defence. Beyond these Havens or
channels, is a Mountaine lying over the City, upon which
the Souldiers kept guards day and night, as they did
likewise upon the Bridge dividing the Cities, and upon
other lower hils, at all the gates of the City, and in prayer
time, at the doore of the English Church. This Church
is on the East side, and is common to the English and
Dutch at divers houres. Betweene the high mountaine
& this Church, was the Governours House, belonging of
old to the Counts of Zealand, and the publike house-for
exercise of shooting, but lesse pleasant then the like
houses are in other Cities. On the same East side lie two
wales, one to Rammakins Castle, the other to Midleburge.
On the North side the Downes of Kent in England may

Flishing.

k'lishing
pledged to
England.

[I. i. 5-]

Good watch
kept by the
English.

The Citizens
fear the
$ouldiers.

4 Gentleman
famed for his
wisdome.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

easily be seene, and there is the Hospitall or Gast-house
for sicke people, and for sicke and maimed souldiers, of
which a Mountaine thereby hath the name. On this and
the East sides, are two Mils to retaine the water when the
Sea ebs, that the ditches round about may alwaies be filled,
and if need be to overflow the fields. These ditches are
commonly a pikes depth, and can by no art or enemy be
dried. The Citizens want good water, having no wels,
nor any fresh water, but raine water kept in Cesternes.
The foresaid number of Souldiers in the Garrison, was not
sufficient to master the Citizens, onely their couragious
minds dispising death, kept the Citizens in such awe, as
they durst not attempt to recover their liberty by force,
which they hoped to obtaine by peaceable meanes, and the
united Provinces depended upon the opinion of the
Qeenes aid, perhaps more then upon the aid it selfe, so
as either failing, they were like to be a prey to the
Spaniards. Si,lce that time I heard the Garison was
diminished, so as it seemes the English had lesse strength
to keepe it, if the States changing their minds, should
attempt to surprise it. Being invited by my English
friends, I spent nothing in this City.
Hence I returned to Midleburge on foot, upon a paved
causey, having on each side rich come fields, and faire
pastures, with many orchards; and in the mid-way a
Gentleman called Aldegondey, famous for his wisdome,
hath his Castle, wherein he dwelt. At Midleburge I
paid six stivers for my supper, and two for nay bed, and
providing victuals to carry by Sea, I paid for a loyne of
mutton twenty foure stivers, as also for my washing seven
stivers, and staying in the Towne two daies, I spent in
all foure guldens and route stivers.
I tooke ship at ten in the morning, and betweene the
Iland Der-goese, and the Inland Sea, called Zurechsea, I
saw two Towers of Villages swallowed in the foresaid
deluge, and sayling by the Iland Plate, and the Iland of
Brill, we passed certaine booyes directing to find the
channell. The next day in the afternoone, I landed at
lO8

COMMENTS UPON THE HAGUE

Roterodam in Holland, and paid ten stivers for my
passage. Thence I passed in two houres space by boat
to Delph, and paid two stivers for my passage. Thence
in two houres space I passed to the Hage by Waggon,
and paid for my passage two stivers; for which
journey one man alone may hire a Waggon for seven
stivers.
At the Hage Count Maurice with his mother in law T,e Hage.
the Countesse of Orange (born of the Noble Family of the
Chastillons in France) and the Generall States of the
united Provinces, and Princes Ambassadours, have their
residence, which made me desirous to stay here a while,
to which purpose I hired a chamber, for which, for my
bed, sheets, tableclothes, towels, and dressing of my meat,
I paid twenty five stivers weekely. I bought my owne Charges in
meat, and living privatly with as much frugality as The Hage.
conveniently I might, I spent by the weeke no more then
five guldens and a halfe, though all things were in this
place extraordinarily deere. My beere in one weeke came
to foureteene stivers, and among other things bought, I
paid for a quarter of lambe thirty stivers, for a Hen seven
stivers, for a Pigeon foure stivers, for a Rabet three
stivers. I remember not to have seene a more pleasant
village then this: great part of the houses are fairely
built of bricke, though many of them in by-streetes be
covered with thatch, and some few are stately built of
free-stone. The village hath the forme of a Crosse, and
upon the East side comming in from Leyden, there is a
most pleasant Grove, with many wild walkes like a mtze,
and neerer the houses is another very pleasant walke, set
round about with willowes. Here is the publike house [L i. 52.]
for exercise of shooting in the Peece and Crosse-bow,
which hath a sweet prospect into a large greene plaine,
where they use to spread linnen clothes in the sunne, and
here certaine rowes of trees being planted, yeeld a
pleasant shade to them that walke therein. One of the
said rowes of trees called Vinareberg, leades to an old
Castle of the Counts of Holland, compassed with a drie

IO9

^.D. FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY
593.
The Castle ditch, in which Count Maurice dwelt, but in the great
of the Cont Hall thereof were many shops of Merchants for small
of Hollnnd. wares. Upon the wals of the said Castle, and upon the
windowes of the Church, these words were written in
latine.
To Charles the fifth, &c. To the most invincible
Cesar Charles the fifth Roman Emperour, the
victorious defender of the Catholike Religion, and
Augustus. The Provisors of this House have
placed this, in the yeere I547.
Thereby was the statua of Charles the fifth, kneeling
on his knees. In the window were painted the Armes
of all the Knights of the golden Fleece. The Histories
of the Countrey report the building of this Pallace to be
wonderfull, in that the top of the Hall is not joined with
beames, but with arches: but for my part I observed no
reat magnificence in the worke. The second of the
resaid rowes of trees, called Furholt, leads to a gentle-
roans house, the fairest & most stately built in this Village.
In the middest of the Hage lies the market place, and the
Church. On the South side is the water that leades to
Delph : and round about on all sides without the Village,
are faire pastures, excepting the North-side, where the
sandy downes of the Sea lie neere to the Village. In the
Church is a Monument of Count Albertus, Duke of
Bavaria, and another of a Count of Hanaw, with
divers others, which I omit, as having no antiquity or
magnificence.
Lnudune. While I staied at the Hage, I walked out in halle an
houres space to the village Lausdune, where I saw a
wonderfull monument, the History whereof printed in a
paper, the Earle of Leicester (as they said) had carried
with him into England, leaving onely the same in written
hand, the coppy vhereof I will set downe, first remembr-
ing that two basens of brasse hanged on the wall, in
which the children (whereof I shall speak) were baptized.
The manuscript was in latine as followeth,
IIO

COMMENTS UPON THE HAGUE

En tibi monstrosum nimis & memorabile factum,
Qale nec a Mundi conditione datum.
Hec lege, mox animo stupefactus lector abibis.
So strange and monstrous thing I tell,
As from the worlds frame here befell,
He parts amasde that markes it well.
The rest in latine is thus englished ;
Margaret, wife to Hermanuus Count of Henneberge,
daughter to Florence Count of Holland and Zealand,
sister to William King of the Romans, and Cesar, or
Governour of the Empire. This most noble Countesse
being about forty two yeeres old, the very day of prepara-
tion called Parascene, about nine o.f the clocke, in the
yeere 276. brought forth at one birth three hundred
sixty five children, which being baptized in two basens
of brasse, by Guido Suffragan of Utretcht, all the males
were called John, and all the females Elizabeth; but all
of them together with the mother, died in one and the
same day, and lie buried here in the Church of Lausdune :
and this happened to her, in that a poore woman bearing
in her armes two twinnes, the Countesse wondering at
it, said shee could not have them both by one man, and
so rejected her with scorne, whereupon the woman sore
troubled, wished that the Countesse might have as many
children at a birth, as there be daies in the whole yeere ;
which besides the course of nature, by miracle fell out,
as in this table is briefly set downe for perpetuall memory,
out of old Chronicles, as well written as printed. Almighty
God must be in this beheld and honoured, and extolled
with praises for ever and ever. Amen.
From the Hage, my selfe and other consorts hired a
Waggon for two guldens, and passed to Leyden, having
on both sides faire pastures, fruitfull come fields, and some
pleasant groves.

T,isyeerefell
in a lying and
superstitiou
age.

[Chap. V.
III

COMMENTS UPON UTRECHT

and entred the Bishopricke of Utrecht, which is one of
the united Provinces. Not farre from the City wee saw
a crosse, set up for a Monument of a Bishop dying in
battell against the Hollanders. I had almost forgotten
the little City Werden, which they shewed us by the
way, and told us, that the forme thereof was like the City
of Jerusalem, which at that time I had not seene, and
therefore mention this from their report, rather then from
my judgement.
The City Utrecht is seated in length from South-east, Utrecht.
by East, to North-west by West, and upon the end at
South-east by East, is the gate Weitefraw, where the
Rheine enters the City. At the other end, North-west
by West, are the rulnes of an old Castle, which the
Spaniards kept before the wars, to bridle the City: and
there be two gates, Saint Katherine-port, and Wert-port,
each of them having their suburbes. On the South-west
side are walles of earth, but the ditches were almost dry.
On the North-east side is the gate Olske-port, and there
bee three strong Ravelings, one defending the other. On
this side bee two streets fairer then the rest, called New-
graft, and Altkirkhoffe; and there is a pleasant walke
well shaded with trees, upon the banke of the River.
In the midst of the City is the Cathedrall Church, having
a faire Tower, and a Bell, which they report to be of Cathedrall
eighteene thousand pounds weight. Neere to the same curc and
is the Bishops Pallace, wherein the Bishops dwelt before te
the union of the Provinces ; but at this time there dwelled Pallace.
the Countesse of Meurs, whose husband died in these
warres. In the same part lie the market place, and the
Senate house. The houses of the City are of bricke, and
fairely built, but lose much of their beautie by being
covered on the outside with boords, and they seeme to
have more antiquitie, then the buildings of Holland.
There be th.irty Churches, but onely three are used for
divine service. In Saint Maries Church, (which as I
remember is the Cathedrall Church) these verses are
written upon a piIler.

I593.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

upon the coast; but a faire winde then arising, all our
shippes gladly weighed anchor. At which time it
happened that the anchor of our ship brake, so as our
consorts went on, but our Master, according to the navall
discipline, not to put to sea with one anchor, returned
backe to the harbour of the Fly, there to buy a new anchor,
all of us foolishly cursing our fortune and the starres. On
Tuesday morning while wee sadly walked on the shoare,
[I. i. 55-] wee might see our consorts comming backe with torne
stiles, and dead men, and quarters of men, lying on the
hatches. We beholding this with great astonishment,
tooke boat to board them, and demanding the newes, they
told us that the little barks we saw the day before were
Dunkirkers, having in each of them eighty Souldiers, and
some few great Peeces, and that they had taken them, &
spoiled their ships, of their chiefe & lightest goods, and
Dutchmen had carried away prisoners to Dunkirk all the passengers
tortured by & chief Marriners, after they had first wrung their fore-
Pirate. heads with twined ropes, & with many horrible tortures,
forced them to confesse what mony they had presently,
& what they .could procure for ranso.m. Further, with
mourning voice they told us, that the Pirats inquired
much after our ship, saying that it was the bride, with
whom they meant to dance, cursing it to be destroyed
with a thousand tuns of divels, & swearing that if they
had foreseene our escape, they would have assailed us by
day, while we rode at anchor. They added, that they had
left no goods, but those they could not carry for weight,
and had changed their ragged shirts and apparell with the
poore Marriners. And indeed they had just cause to
bewaile the escape of our shippe, being laded with many
chests of Spanish Ryalls, whereof they were not ignorant,
using to have their spies in such places, who for a share
in the booty, would have betrayed their very brothers.
As we had just cause to praise almighty God, who had
thus delivered us out of the jawes of death, so had wee
much more cause to bewaile our rashnesse, yea and our
wickednesse, that we had striven, yea and repined against
ii6

JOURNEY TO HAMBURG

houres space, through a sandy heath ground and thicke
woods of oake, and came to a Village; where each man
paid for his dinner foure stivers. After dinner we passed
more then a mile through a like wooddy Heath, and in
three houres space came to Delmerhurst, where the Count
of Oldenburge hath a faire and strong Castle, thoug.h it
be a poore Village : and here each man paid halfe a stver
to the Count, and for our Waggon ten stivers. The same
day we passed a mile through sandy pastures, and in three
houres space came to Breme, where each man paid for our
Waggon foure groats, and for our supper five lubecke
shillings. From Breme we passed foure miles through
wild fields, yeelding some little come, and thicke woods,
and in sixe houres space came to a poore house; where
each man paid for dinner five lubecke shillings. Here
those which carried any merchandise paid tole: and one
man having a packe which a man might carry on his
shoulder, paid foure lubecke shillings for the same: but
all that goe to study in Universities, or be no Merchants,
are free from this imposition. After dinner we passed
three miles in five houres space to Furd, where each man
aid for his supper five lubecke shillings. The next day
om two of the clocke in the morning to seven, wee
passed three miles through a heath and woods of oake,
and came to Stode, where each man paid for his ,Vaggon
from Breme twenty two Lubecke shillings. At Stode I
paid for my dinner in a Dutch Inne foure Lubecke
shillings and a halfe, and for a steifkin or measure of
Rhenish wine, halfe a doller. I briefly passe over this
journey upon the sea-coast of Germany, because I formerly
discribed the same.
The one and twenty of July, I passed in foure houres
space by boat five miles to Hamburge, and paid for my
passage by water three Lubecke shillings, for nay supper
foure, and one for my bed. Early in the morning I
passed six miles in sixe houres space, through wild fenny
fields, woods of oake, and some few fields of come, and
came to the Village Altslow, seated in a bogge, whereof
II 9

AoDo
593.

Te Ca of
Dehnerhurst.

$tudent and
Merchant,
fiee of tole.

x593-

A ridkulous

Charges for
Booke.
[I. i. 57.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

it hath the name ; where I paid for my dinner five Lubecke
shillings and a halle. Give me leave to tell you a
ridiculous toy, yet strange and true: At Hamburge
gate leading to Lubecke, we found a dogge that followed
us, and some passengers of credit assured mee, that for
many yeeres this dogge had lien at that gate, and every
day without intermission, watching the first Coach that
came forth, had followed the same to this village Altslow,
being the bayting place at noone, and after dinner had
returned backe to Hamburge gate, with another Coach
comming from Lubecke, for Coaches passe daily betweene
those Cities.
After dinner we passed foure miles in foure houres
space, through hils more thicke with woods, but in many
places bearing good corne, and came to Lubecke. For
my place in the Coach this day I paid twenty lubecke
shillings, and this night for my supper and bed, I paid sixe
lubecke shillings. Here I bought the foureteenth Booke
of Amadis de Gaule, in the Dutch tongue, to practise the
same: for these Bookes are most eloquently translated
:.nto the Dutch, and fit to teach familiar language; and
for this Booke I paid eighteene lubecke shillings, and for
the binding route; and for a Map of Europe to guide
me in my journey, I paid foureteene lubecke shillings:
Also I paid for a. measure of Rhenish wine five lubecke
shillings, and as much for a measure of Spanish wine.
From Lubecke I passed two miles in three houres space,
through fruitfull hils of come, and some woods of oake
to the village Tremuren, and paid for my coach the fourth
part of Doller (which notwithstanding useth to be hired
for five lubecke shillings) and for my supper I paid foure
lubecke shillint, s. I formerly shewed that this village is
the Haven, where the great ships use to be unladed, and
from thence to be carried up to lie at Lubecke in the
winter.
Here I tooke ship to sayle into Denmarke, upon the
Balticke Sea, so called, because it is compassed by the
Land, as it were with a girdle. This sea doth not at all

I20

COMMENTS UPON COPENHAGEN

ebbe and flow, or very little, alter it hath passed in by the
streight of Denmarke, being more then twenty fbure miles
long, so as upon the shoares of ]?russen, Muscaw, and
Suetia, this sea seemes little to be moved, and many times
is frozen with ice, from the shore farre into the sea; and
the waves thereof once stirred with the winds, are very
high, neither is the water of this sea any thing so salt as
otherwhere, so as the ships sayling therein, doe sinke
deeper at least three spans then in the German Ocean, as
manifestly appeares by the white sides of the ships above
water when they come out of this sea, and enter the said
Ocean. And this will not seeme strange to any, who
have seene an egge put into salt pits, and how it swimmes,
being borne up with the salt water. The Master of the
Lubecke ship in which I passed to Denmarke, gave me
beere for foure lubeck shillings; for which the Dutch-
men and Danes drinking more largely, paid but one
lubecke shilling more, and every man had provided
victuals for himselfe. I paid for my passage twenty foure
lubecke shillings, and gave foure to the martinets. From
Lubecke they reckon twenty route miles to Falsterboaden,
and from thence seven miles to Coppenhagen, so called
as the Haven of Merchants. We left upon our left hand
towards the South, a little Iland called Munde, and (as 1
remember) the third day of August, landed at Drakes-
holme, being one mile from Coppenhagen, whether I
passed in a Waggon through some pastures and barren
corne fields; and neere the City I passed over the Haven
from one Iland to another. I paid for my Waggon three
lubecke shillings.
At our entrance of the City, on the East-side, is the
Kings Castle, where the Court lies, especially in winter
time. On this side, the City lies upon the sea, and there
is the said Haven, as likewise on the North-side the sea
is little distant from the City. When I entered the gates,
the guard of souldiers examined me strictly, and the
common people, as if they had never seene a stranger
before, shouted at mee after a barbarous fashion; among
121

The Balticke
Sea.

Cotpenhagen.

Roschild.

41brecht of
Suetia and
Margaret of
Denmarke.

[I. i. 58.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

which people were many marriners, which are commonly
more rude in such occasions, and in all conversation. The
City is of a round forme, in which, or in the Kings
Castle, I observed no beauty or magnificence. The Castle
is built of free-stone in a quadrangle. The City is built
of timber and clay, and it hath a faire market place, and
is reasonably well fortified. Here I paid for three meales
and breakefast eight lubecke shillings, and as much for
beere. The King at this time lay at Roschild, purposing
shortly to goe into the Dukedome of Hoist, where he
had appointed a meeting of the gentlemen at Flansburge,
to receive their homage there, which uppon old priviledges
they had refused to doe unto him in Denmarke.
Therefore I went foure miles in foure houres space,
through a wild hilly Country, to Roschild, so called of
the Kings Fountaine; and my selfe and one companicn
paid twenty lubecke shillings for our Waggon: and
though it were the moneth of August, yet the wind
blowing strong from the North, nd from the Sea, I was
very cold, as if it had beene then winter. Roschild hath
a Bishop, and though it be not walled, hath the title of
a City; but well deserves to be numbred among faire
and pleasant Villages. Here they shew a whet stone,
which Albrecht King of Suetia, sent to Margaret Qeene
of Denmarke, despising her as a woman, and in scoffe
bidding her to whet her swords therewith: but this
Qeene tooke the said King prisoner in that warre, and
so held him till death. Here I paid seven Danish shillings
for my supper. In the chancell of the Church is a monu-
ment of blacke and white stone for this Qeene Margaret
and her daughter, and the Danes so reverence this Qeene,
as they have here to shew the apparell she used to weare.
In this Church are the sepulchers of the Kings, whereof
one erected by Frederick, for Christianus his father, is
of blacke Marble and Alablaster, curiously carved, having
his statua kneeling before a Crucifix, and hung round
about with sixteene blacke flags, and one red.
Having seene the King and the Courtiers, my selfe

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

imposition upon ships and goods comming out of the
Balticke sea, or brought into the same, as this sole profit
passeth all the revenewes of his Kingdome. In this
village a strong Castle called Croneburg lyeth upon the
mouth of the Straight, to which the other side of this
Narrow sea, in the Kingdome of Norway, another Castle
is opposite, called Elsburg, and these Castles keepe the
Straight, that no ship can passe into the Baltick sea, or
out of it, having not first paled these impositions. They
say there is nother passage between two Ilands (for all
the Kingdom of Denmark consists of little Ilands) but
the same is forbidden upon penalty of confiscation of all
the goods. And they report that three shippes in a darke
fog passed this straight without paying any thing; but
after, this being made knowne to the Kings ministers,
at the returne of the said ships all their goods were
The Dnnes confiscated. In respect of the Danes scrupulous and
cr,pulous iealous nature, I did with great difficulty, (putting on a
andjenlous. "Merchants habite, and giving a greater reward then the
favour deserved,) obtaine to enter Croneburg Castle,
which was built ibure square, and hath only one gate on
the East side, where it lies upon the straight. Above this
gate is a chamber in which the King useth to eat, and
two chambers wherein the King and Q.qeene lie apart.
Under the fGrtification of the Castle round about, are
stables for horses, and some roomes for like purposes.
On the South-side towards the Baltick sea, is the largest
roade for ships. And upon this side is the prison,
and above it a short gallery. On the West side towards
the village is the Church of the Castle, & above it
a very faire gallery, in which the King useth tb
feast at solemne times. On the North side is the
prospect partly upon the Iland, and partly upon the
Narrow sea, which reacheth twenty foure miles to the
German Ocean. And because great store of ships passe
this way in great Fleets, of a hundreth more ov lesse
together: this prospect is most pleasant to all men, bu
[I. i. 59-] most of dl to the King, seeing so many shippes, whereof

COMMENTS UPON COPENHAGEN A.D.
x593.
not one shall passe, without adding somewhat to his
treasure. On this side lie two. chambers, which are called
the King of Scotland his chambers, ever since his Majesty
lodged there, when he wooed and married his Qeene.
The hangings thereof were of redde cloth, and the chaires
and stooles covered with the same, but they said that the
rich furniture was laid up in the Kings absence. The
Haven will receive great number of shippes, and it hath
Croneburge Castle on the North side, the Castle of
Elsburg on the East side, and Zealand (the chiefe Iland of
the Kindome) on the West side, and the Iland Wheen
on the South side.
To which Iland the long straight or narrow sea lies
opposite towards the North, .leading into the German
Ocean. This Iland Wheen is a mile long, and not
altogether so brod, having onely one grove in it. This
solitary place, King Fredrick, Father to Christianus now
raigning, gave to a Gentleman called Tugo-Brahe for his Tugo-Brahe
dwelling, who being a famous Astronomer lived here a famou
solitarily at this time, & was said to have some Church dstronomer.
livings for his maintenance, and to live unmas'ried, but
keeping a Concubine, of whom he had many children,
& the reason of his so living, was thought to be this;
because his nose having been cut off in a quarrell, when
he studied in an University of Germany, he knew him-
selfe thereby disabled to marry any Gentlewoman of his
own quality. It was also said that the gentlemen lesse
respected him for living in that sort, and did not acknow-
ledge his sonnes for Gentlemen. King Frederick also
gave this learned Gen.tleman of his free gift, many and
very faire Astronomicall instruments, and he living in a
pleasant Iland, wherein no man dwelt but his family,
wanted no pleasure which a contemplative man could
desire. Besides the aforesaid instruments, this Gentle-
man had a very faire Library, full of excellent bookes,
and a like faire still-house. Besides not farre from his
house, he had a little round house of great beauty, in
which he did exercise his speculation, the cover thereof

Pictures of
mold$
.4stronomers.

Timocherus.

Hipparchus.

Ptoloray.

l lbategnu,.

ll#onsus.

Copernicus.

[I. i. 60.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

being to bee removed at pleasure, so as lying with his
face upward, he might in the night time fully behold the
Starres, or any of them. In this little house all famous
Astronomers were painted, and the following Verses were
added, each to the picture, to which they belong.
Sulveta Heroes: vetus O Timochare salve,
]Etheris ante alios ause subire polos.
God save ye worthies: old Timocherus
I greet thee, more then many venturous,
To mount the Starres and shew them unto us.
Tu quoque demensus Solis Lunreque recursus,
Hipparche, & quot quot sidera Olympus habet.
And thou Hipparchus, thou didst measure even,
The course of Sun, Moone, and all Starres of heaven.
Antiquos superare volens, Ptolomee labores,
Orbibus & numeris promptius astra locas.
Ptolomy, thou to passe old ages reach,
The Numbers and the Orbes dost better teach.
Emendare aliquid satis Albategne studebas,
Sydera conatus post habuere tuos.
Thou Albategnus somewhat yet to mend
Didst strive, but wert prevented by thine end.
Qod labor & studium reliquis, tibi contulit Aurum
Alphonse, ut tantis annumerere viris.
These got by paines and study, thou by gold
Alphonsus, with such men to be inrol'd.
Curriculis tritis diffise Copernlce, terram
Invitam, astriferum flectere cogis iter.
Copernicus, thou old said sawes didst doubt,
Thou mak'st heaven stand, and earth turne round about.
In the best place this Gentleman Tugo Brahe had set
his owne picture, with the following Verses;
Qesitis veterum & propriis, norme astra subegi,
Qanti id: Judicium posteritatis erit.
With old Rules and my owne, the Starres I place,
Which after-times, as it deserves, shall grace,

COMMENTS UPON HVEN

Many Instruments are there placed by him, which him-
selfe invented, and bee hath made a solemne dedication
of the house to the ages to come, with earnest prayers
that they will not pull downe this Monument.
The Danes thinke this Iland Wheen to be of such
importance, as they have an idle fable, that a King of An llle
England shoul.d offer for the possession of it, as much t'able.
scarlet cloth as would cover the same, with a Rose-noble
at the corner of each cloth. Others tell a fable of like
credit, that it was once sold to a Merchant, whom they
scoffed when he came to take possession, bidding him
take away the earth he had bought. The great revenew
exacted in this straight, hath given occasion to these and
the like fables. And in truth, if either the King of Suetia,
or the free City of Lubeck, had the possession of this
Iland, and were fortified therein, they might easily com-
mand this passage, and extort what they list, from the
Merchants passing that way, and perhaps conquer the parts
adjoyning; but the possession thereof were altogether
unprofitable for any Prince, whose Territories lie out of
the Sound, the entrance whereof is forbid by the two
foresaid strong Castles. But lest I should bee as foolish
as they, I returne to my purpose. And first give me leave
to mention, that there lies a City not farre distant, in the
Kingdome of Norway, which is called London, as the
chiefe City in England is called.
Upon Sunday, the twenty six of August, in the yeere
593, I tooke an English ship heere, to saile into Prussen,
having first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelve
Danish shillings, thirty egges for six shillings, and some
few pots of Spanish wine, for..forty two Danish shillings,
with some other small provlslons. From Elsinure-to
Dantzk, they reckon eighty English miles. As soone as
wee were come out of the harbour, wee saw two ships
sayling two contrary wayes, and yet having both a fore- Strange
wind, which sometimes happens upon the shoare, as
marriners know. For of these two contrary winds, the
one is airy, which holds when you are gone into the maine,

The ,4ntilope
struck by
lightning.

[I. i. 6.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the other is from the earth, and in short time faileth at
the very shore: which event we presently saw with our
eyes, one of the ships going fairely on his course, the
other casting anchor. The English ship in which I went,
was called the Antilope, being of one hundred fifty tuns,
or thereabouts, and one Master Bodley was the Master
thereof, who shewed me manifest signes, where his ship in
two places had beene struck with lightning ; the first where-
of passed into the pumpe, and rent it, but comming to the
water, was by the nature thereof carried upward, and com-
ruing out at the top of the pumpe, made two little holes;
then passing to the great Mast, rent it, and made a great
crany therein, from the hatches to the top. The second
struck the top of the said maine Mast, and againe rent it,
in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile, till wee might
come to Dantzk, where the best Mastes are sold at a
good rate. The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea,
some five miles with a scant winde, and cast anchor neere
Copenhagen. With a faire winde and good gaile,
Marriners usually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an
houre. On Monday early, wee sayled along the shore
three miles to Falsterboden. On Tuesday early, wee
sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm, and upon
our left hands saw the land in two places, and there
sounding with our plummet, sand of Amber stuck there-
unto. The same day by noone, wee sayled the length
of that Iland; and upon Wednesday, by three of the
clocke in the morning, having sayled thirty miles, we
passed by Rose-head, being a Promentory neere Dantzk.
On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning,
having sayled eighteene miles, we came to a Land called
Kettell, and entered the Port of Melvin, where the water
was scarce two fadome deepe, our ship drawing one fadome
and a halfe.- the entry was narrow, and there were many
booyes floting upon shoales & sands; and the weather
being calme, we were drawne in by a boate with Oares. In
like cases ships use to draw themselves in, by the casting
and weighing of Anchors, with great labour, and slow
i28

Dantzke,

The King of
Poland in
Dantzke.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

howsoever they excused it, by reason that learned
Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for
meanes to live, yet I thought them not free of blame
in this point; because our Merchants further distant in
Asia, and living under the Turkes Empire, found meanes
by their bounty to have learned Preachers. Neither
indeed did I ever observe in any other place (Italy
excepted) that our Merchants wanted Preachers, where
they held their staples.
From Melvin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke,
and we being onely two consorts, paid each of us a Doller
for our Coach. In the morning we went sixe miles, and
by the way passed the River Begot, comming out of the
river Vistula, where our Coachman paid three grosh to
have his Coach carried over a damme. Beyond this river
we entered the territory of the King of Poland, and
passing all this way through fruit full corne fields, and
rich medowes, and pastures, in a Countrey abounding
with townes and Villages, we dined in a Village where
we two by covenant paying for our coachman, spent each
of us eight grosh. In the afternoone we passed the rest
of the way, one mile in the Kings territory, where we
passed another damme of the river Vistula, and three miles
to Dantzke in the territory of the same City. The King
of Poland at this time was at the Port of Dantzke, called
Der Mind, an English mile from the City, expecting a
wind to sayle into his Kingdome of Suecia, and had with
him his Qeene, and many Ladies and Courtiers. There-
fore desirous to see the King and the Q.geene, with their
traine, I walked the next morning to this Port, which is
barred with a mountaine of sand, so as the ships must
unlade in the roade, before they can enter this Haven;
neither is any village built there, but onely one Inne,
in which the King lay, with all his traine: but beyond
the water there is a strong Castle of a round forme.
From hence after dinner I returned on foot to Dantzke.
The next day the King had a good wind, but before this
(as those of the Romish religion are very superstitious)

x3o

COMMENTS UPON DANTZIC

the King and the Qeen (being of the house of Austria)
while sometimes they thought Munday, sometimes
Friday, to be unlucky daies, had lost many faire winds.
The City of Dantzke is a very faire City, and howsoever
few ages past, they had not any houses built of stone,
yet at this time many were built of free-stone, and the
rest of bricke, with great beauty and magnificence, being
sixe or seven roofes high. And they had publike gardens
for sports, banquets, and exercises, which are very pleasant.
They have a very faire Senate-house, called Hoff, that
is, the Court; and the Citizens have a strange fashion,
to put off their hats when they passe by it. From the
market place being round (in which the King of Poland
lodged some daies) to the gate Hochethore (being richly
engraved) lieth a very faire street (called Longgasse) and
leads up towards the Mountaines hanging over the City.
The famous River Vistula doth not enter the City, but
passeth by it on the East-side, and running towards the
North, fals into the Balticke sea. But a little brook enters
the City on the South-side, and runnes through it towards
the North. There is a faire water conduit, vulgarly called
Wasserkunst, where by a mill the waters are drawne up
into a cesterne, from whence they are carried by pipes
into all the streetes and private houses ; besides that many
Citizens have their privat wels. The aforesaid brooke
drives many mils, among which, one for the grinding of
corne, belongs to the Senate, and it hath eighteene roomes,
and bringeth into the publike treasure every houre a
gold gulden, and another without any helpe of hands,
saweth boords, having an iron wheele, which doth not
onely drive the saw, but hooketh in, and turneth the
boords to the saw. The Garners for laying up of corne
called speiker, are very faire, and very many lying
together, in which the Citizens lay up corne brought out
of Poland, and according to the wants of Europe, carry
it into man.y kingdomes, and many times relieve fruitfull
Provinces in time of casual dearth. The Qeene of
Poland came in a disguised habit to see these garners:

[I. i. 6z.]

conduit.

4 saw mill.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

and they have a law that no man may carry fire or a lighted
candle into them. In the Church called Parkirk, the
resurrection of our Lord is painted with great art, and
the same againe is figured under a globe of glasse, which
kinde of painting is here in use. This City compassed
Thegove,t- with one wall, containes three Cities, governed by three
ante of the Senates, out of which one chiefe Senate is gathered to
city. governe the whole City; and these three Cities are called
Furstat, that is, the fore City, and Altstat, that is, the
old City, and Reichstat, that is, the Empires City. The
whole City united, lies in length from the South to the
North, and upon the South-side is Furstat, where the
foresaid brooke dividing the City doth enter, and there
is the aforesaid water conduit, and without the wals a
Afaire faire village or suburbe called Scotland, in which there
village called is a sanctuary, which offenders may enter, paying a gulden
Scotland. to the Bishop; and none but Artificers, & for the most
part shoomakers, dwell in this suburbe. On this side,
and towards the East and North, without the wals, lie
plaine fields, which may be drowned at pleasure. Upon
the East-side within the wals, are the aforesaid garners
for corne. On the West-side without the wals, great
mountaines hang over the City, and upon them Stephen
King of Poland incamped, when he besieged the City,
which hath for defence very high wals on the same side.
Upon the North-side in a corner lies Altstat, betweene
which and Furstat on the South-side, lies the chiefe City
Reichstat, in the middest whereof is the aforesaid market
place, and a publike armory ; besides that great Ordinance
is planted upon the wals round about the City. I said
that from this market place, the faire street Longgasse
lieth to the gate Hochethore. Betweene Reichstat and
Altstat, lie the foresaid two mils, to grinde corn, and saw
boards, both (in my opinion) very rare. The City of
Dantzke, from the Roman superstition, hath the same
Saint for protector of their City, which England hath;
namely, Saint George, whom they carry in their flags
and banners. And by the way let me remember, that the

Saint George
Jbr Dantzke.

x32

COMMENTS UPON DANTZIC

state of Genoa in Italy, and the Iland of Chios, vulgarly
Zio, in the sea neere Constantinople, carry also the same
Saint in their flagges. At Dantzke I paid five grosh a
meale, and being to passe into Poland, where good meat
is not in all places to be had, I carried some provision in
the Coach, and paid for two hens five grosh, and for each
measure of wine (all kinds being of like price) I paid ten
grosh, which measure is called a stoope, and is somewhat
bigger then the English quart.
The ninth of September, after the old stile (for the [I. i. 63.]
new stile is used in Poland,) I tooke my journey to
Crakaw, and we being foure consorts, hired a Coach for
forty guldens. The first day in the morning we passed
five miles in five houres space, through fruitfull hils of
corne, and onely one wood, in that part of the Dukedome
of Prussen, which belongs unto the King of Poland, and
came to the City Diersaw, by which the river Vistula Diersaw.
runneth. After dinner we passed three miles, through
a wood and a Fen, to the Village Zunzane, inhabited by
Hollanders, who having dried the Fen, made the fields
much more fruitfull. And from thence the same night
having passed the river Vistula, we went halfe a mile to
Gratenis, a City belonging to the Sborosky, a family of
Gentlemen. The second day in the morning we went
five miles, through a wood and fruitfull fields of corne,
to a little Citty Colmersea, where that day was a meeting
of the neighbour Gentlemen. If you except Crakaw, and
the greater Cities, the building in these parts is poore, Poore
being of meere dirt in the Villages, and of timber and buildings.
clay in the better townes, the houses being covered with
straw, or tiles of wood, and the gentlemens houses be
farre distant one from the other, and of no beauty. After
dinner we went foure miles through fruitfull fields of
corne, to the City Toarn. Hitherto we had given money
to a Hollander, one of our consorts, for the paying of
our expences, and now by his account each of us had
spent three guldens and a halfe, for he had provided wine
and such things which wee could not find in Villages,
133

FROM DANTZIC TO CRACOW

for a grosh, and all other victuals very cheape. After
dinner we hired two horses, and a Countrey Waggon
for eight grosh, and passed foure miles through a stony
way, and sandy fields of corne, to Peterkaw, where the pete,'ka.
King hath a Castle, and there we bought for our selves,
flesh, bread, and beere, for our supper, at a very cheape
rate, and giving one grosh to the Hostesse for dressing
our meat, and for butter and tier, shee was very well
content with it. The sixth day in the morning we passed
five miles, and in the afternoone two miles, with the same
Waggon, for which wee paid seven grosh, and the same
horses, for which wee paid foureteene grosh. And we
passed through woods of high firre trees, and some few
fields of corne. Our meat we bought our selves, and
as formerly our Hostesse dressed it, and we fetched our
beere without doores. I remember wee paid three grosh
for a goose, two for a partridge, two for a loyne of mutton,
and three for a pigge. They sold a bushel of oates for [I. i. 64.]
two grosh, which at Thoarn they sold for six grosh. In
these parts were great store of hop-yards. After dinner
we passed three miles throgh woody hils, and corne fieldes,
and paied for our horses and a country waggon twelve
grosh.
The seventh day in the morning, wee passed to a poore
village foure miles, through fruitfull hils of corne, and
many woods of firre, and one of oake, and wee hired our Many u'oc,s.
country waggon with two horses, for fourteene grosh.
Further wee went three miles to another village, through
hils of corne, and a heath full of woods, and paied for
one horse and a waggon, six grosh. After dinner we
passed to a village three miles, through fruitfull hils of
come; and by the way we might see a stately Gentlemans
house, and Gentlemen hawking in the fieldes: and I
remember not in all my long travell, ever to have met
hawkers or hunters in the fieldes, but onely heere, and
once in Bohemia. In this village the King hath a Castle.
The eight day, in the morning, we passed forward with
the same horses and waggon, which we had in the after-
I35

The Kings
Castle.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

noone before, and went two miles to Pnecho, and wee
paied for our horses and waggon fifteene grosh, and gave
one to the waggoner. Here the King hath another faire
Castle. From hence we passed two miles to a village,
through mountaines and corne fields, and paled for two
horses and a waggon foure grosh, and gave to the
waggoner procuring our horses one grosh.
The same day we went three miles, through little
mountaines of corne, to Crakaw, and paied for two horses
and a waggon six grosh. Heere wee lodged with the
Fleming, consort of our journey, and had our diet after
the Dutch manner, and price. Fortified Cities, are very
rare in Poland, they placing their strength in their swords
and horsemen, rather then in walles. Of all the Cities,
Crakaw is the chiefe, where the King and his Councell
reside. It is seated in a plaine, having mountaines on
all sides, but somewhat distant, and it is compassed with
two walles of stone, and a dry ditch. The building is
very faire, of free stone foure roofes hye, but covered
with tiles of wood for the most part. It is of a round
forme, but somewhat longer from the East to the West.
In the midst of the City is a large market place quad-
rangular, wherein is the Cathedrall Church, and in the
midst of the market place is the Senate house for the
City, about which are many shops of Merchants. Upon
the East side of the City is the Kins Castle, seated on
a hill; being faire, and high built, atmost quadrangular,
but somewhat more long then broad, and lying open on
the South side, without any building above the wall. On
the East side be the Chambers of the King and Qeene,
with galleries adjoyning. On the North side is a faire
gallery, some forty five walking paces long, where they
use to feast and dance. On the West side are the
chambers of the Qeene Dowager; from whence are
private staires to the gate of the Castle; by which the
French King, Henry the third, stole away secretly into
France. On the same side is a Chappell, in the which
the Kings are buried. Upon the East side of this City,
3 6

COMMENTS UPON CRAKAW A.D.
I593.
where this Castle is seated, lie foure suburbes; namely,
the Jewes little City, and Cagmen, which is divided by
the river Vistula, from the other two, called Stradam and
the Stewes. And Stradam belongs to the City, but
the rest have their own Magistrates and priviledges.
Towards the South and South-west, lies the suburb
Garbatz, belonging to the City, which of late was burnt
in the civill war, by the forces of Zamosky, one of the
Palatines, and Chancellor of the Kingdome, defending
the Election of Sigismund now King, against Maximilian
of Austria, chosen King by another party. On the North
side are the suburbs Biskop, and Clepart, which have their
owne Magistrates.
From hence being to take my journey for Italy, I
bought a horse for eighteene Guldens, and he that sold Charges.for a
him, according to the manner there used, caused his bridle
to be put on, and so by the same delivered the horse into
my hands. I paied fifteene grosh for a paire of shooes,
fifty for a paire of boots, nine for spurs, two guldens and
a halle for a saddle, a gulden and a halle for other furniture
for my journey, nine grosh for stirrups, eight grosh for
route horse shooes, and eight grosh for each bushell of
oates. An Italian Gentleman being to returne into Italy,
bought likewise a horse; and with this f'aire companion
I tooke my journey. The first day towards evening we
rode two miles through fruitfull hills of come, to a [I. i. 65.]
Country house, where I paied for my supper two grosh,
for hay a grosh & a halle, for a quarter of a bushel of
oates, two grosh, .and gave to the Ostler halle a grosh.
The second day an the morning we rode three miles,
through woods of firre, to a village, where I paied for
my dinner two grosh, for hay halle a grosh, for the third
part of a bushell of oates a grosh and a halle. After
dinner we rode one mile and a halfe through a great wood,
having the Mountaines of Hungary on our left hand,
and passing the river Vistula, wee rode a mile through
fenny fields, and woods of firre and beech, and came to a
little Citie Opsenson, where I paid for my supper eight
I37

I593.

Plemn.

Moravia.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

grosh, and for some three English pintes of wine five
grosh, for beere a grosh and a halfe, for a third part of
a bushell of oates, nine grosh, and for hay and straw a
grosh and a halfe, and this City was subject to a Gentleman
of Poland.
The third day in the morning, wee rode three miles
and a halfe, through fields somewhat overflowed, but
fruitfull in corne, and a wood of firre, to Plesna, subject
to the Barrons of Promnitz, and seated in Silesia, a
Province of the Dutch Empire ; for after one miles riding
we came out of Poland, into the said Province, which is
subject to the Emperour, as likewise Moravia is, by his
right as hee is King of Bohemia: but in Silesia they
speake Dutch, and Moravia hath his owne language,
little differing from that of Bohemia. Also in our way
we passed the river Vistula by boat, and another arme
thereof by a bridge. Here the Barrons of Promnitz have
a Castle, wherein they reside; and here I paied for my
dinner sixegrosh, for beere one, for hay and a third part of
a bushel ofoates two grosh, and for a measure of wine
(somewhat bigger then the English quart) ten grosh. After
dinner we rode two miles, through fruitfull fields of corne,
to a little City subject to the Emperour, (not by large
subjection, but proper right to all the Revenewes of that
Territory) as he is King of Bohemia: and I paied for
supper three grosh, for a third part of a bushell of oates
with hay and straw five grosh. The fourth day we rode
two miles in the morning, being now entred into Moravia,
where the miles are exceeding long, as they be in
Bohemia: and we passed through most fruitful hils of
corne, and some woods, and came to a little village, seated
a little beyond the City Freestat, belonging to the Dukes
of Tesch, and here I paied for my dinner three grosh,
and as much for my horse-meat. After dinner we rode
two miles through hils and mountaines, fruitfull of corne,
and some woods of oakes: for Moravia is a pleasant
Countrey, very fruitfull, and full of townes and villages;
and wee came to Ostrenam, where I paled for my supper
x38

COMMENTS UPON MORAVIA

three grosh, for beere two, for my horse-meat foure and
a halle. The rift day in the morning we rode three miles,
through fruitfull hils of come to the village Botevisa;
being very pleasant and full of orchards, and subject to
a Gentleman of that Countrey. By the way we passed
on horse-backe two armes of the river Odera, which hath
his head three miles distant. Heere wee dined with the
Preacher (or Minister) of the Towne, because the Hoste
of the Inne was newly dead; & I paied for my dinner
foure grosh, for beere one grosh, and for horse-meat two
rosh. After dinner we rode two miles, through most
uitfull hils of come, to a pleasant village (as all Moravia
is pleasant and fertile) and I paied for my supper five
grosh, and foure for my horse-meat. The sixth day in
the morning we rode three miles, through fruitful hils of
corne, havin woody Mountaines on both hands; and in
the midst ot the way, passed by the City Granitz, and
came to Leipny. The Cities in these parts are built with
Arches halle over the streets, so as in the greatest raine,
a man may passe in the streets under them with a dry
foot, and such is the building of this little City, where
in some thirty families of Jewes did dwell. Here I paied
for my dinner foure grosh, and for my horse-meat two
grosh (hitherto I meane groshes of Poland.) After dinner
we rode a mile and a halle in a paved way, with come
fields on both hands, to the City Speron; where I paied
for my supper five grosh, (I meane now, and hereafter
groshes of Moravia,) and for my horse-meat three grosh :
and here I paied for an Orange two grosh. In this
journey through Poland, and from Cracaw to this place,
we had heere the first bed, having before lodged, upon
benches in a warme stove. The seventh day m the
morning, wee rode two very long miles, through most
fruitfull hils of corne, & rich pastures, to a village, having
by the way passed by the Citie of Creitzon (wherein many
Jewes dwelt) & by very many villages: and here I paied
for nay dinner three grosh, & for my horse-meat one grosh,
for a measure of wine like an English pint, three creitzers.
39

1593-

Botcvia.

.4rches built
over the
streets.

[I. i. 66. 3

COMMENTS UPON VIENNA

.Do
I593.

walking paces long. Betweene the second bridge, and
the third next to the City, is a pleasant grove, and good
part of the ground under the bridges is many times dry;
but when the river riseth, it doth not only fill all the beds,
but overfloweth the fields on both sides. At the gate of
Wien, each man paid for his horse two pochanels; and
when wee came to the Inne, the Hoste sent our names
written to the Magistrate. Wien the metropolitan City Igien
of Austria, is a famous Fort against the Turkes, upon fntnouFort
the confines of Austria, which if they should once gaine,
Turkey.
their horse-men might suddenly spoile the open Countries
of Bohemia, and Moravia, and good part of Silesia. The
Citie is of a round forme, and upon the North side there
is an ascent to it upon a hil, otherwise without the wals
on all sides the ground is plaine, excjt the West side,
where mountaines lie a good distance trom the City, and
upon that side the Sultan of the Turkes incamped, upon
the hils neere the gallowes, when in the time of the
Emperour Rodulphus, bee besieged the City, or rather
came to view it, with purpose to besiege it the next
summer. The streets are narrow, but the building is
stately, of free stone. Two Towers of the Church are 7"e Curc
curiously ingraven, the like whereof is not in Germany,
except the Tower or steeple of Strasburg. The common
report is, that two chiefe workemen had great emulation
in building them ; and that one having finished his Tower,
found meanes to breake the necke of the other, lest his
workemanship should excel that he had done. One of
the Towers some three yeeres past, was shaken with an
earth-quake, and indeed the houses of this City are many
times shaken therewith, and they have a Prophecy of old,
that this City shall be destroied with an earth-quake. It
is dangerous to walke the streetes in the night, for the
great number of disordered people, which are easily found
upon any confines, especially where such an army lieth
neere, as that of Hungary, governed by no strict dis-
cipline. Ernestas and Mathias, Arch-dukes of Austria,
and brothers to the Emperour Rodulphus, did at this
I4I

[I. i. 67.]

Newkirke.

tyria.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

time lie here, both in one house, and did eat at one table,
and in the time of their meales, it was free for strangers
and others to come into the roome. I staied three daies
at Wien to ease my weary horse, and I paid each meale
twenty foure creitzers, for oates the day and night
eighteene, and in like sort for hay six creitzers.
From hence we tooke our journey for Paduoa in Italy,
and the first day after dinner we rode six miles, in a plaine
of vineyards, pastures, and corne fields, with some woods,
to a village, where I paid fifteene creitzers for my supper,
and eight for my horse. The next day in the morning
we rode foure miles, through a wild plaine, by the City
Newstat, and not farre thence came to Newkirke, where
I paid twenty foure creitzers for my dinner, foure for my
horse, and twelve for a measure of wine, like our English
quart. Henceforward we had no more beere, but onely
wine set on the table. After dinner we rode three miles
through woods and mountaines, planted with vines, and
a rich valley of pasture and corne, all in a stony soyle,
to Schwatzen. I observed that the horses we met laded
with wine, had their noses covered, which they said was
done, lest they should be overcome with the vapour
thereof. This City is seated betweene most high moun-
taines, in a narrow streight, hewen out of a Rocke, and
shut up with a wall of stone. Here I paid for my supper
twenty creitzers, and for drinking after supper (vulgarly
schlaffdruncke, that is, sleeping drinke) sixe creitzers, and
for the fourth part of a bushell of oates, nine creitzers
(which before we had for foure creitzers and a halle) and
for hey and straw three creitzers. The third day in the
morning we rode two miles, through wooddy mountaines,
the ascent of one of them being halle a mile, .nd through
rich pastures, to Morthusly, and I paid for my dinner
eighteene creitzers, and for my horse-meat five creitzers,
oates being deerer here then before. This day neere
Spitle we passed out of Austria into Styrla. After dinner
we rode two miles, through wooddy mountaines, yeelding
good pastures, to a village, where I paid for my supper

FROM VIENNA TO PADUA

twenty foure creitzers, and twelve for my horse-meat.
The fourth day in the morning we rode foure miles,
through mountaines with pasture and woods, and valleies
of corne, to the City Brucke, where I paid for my dinner Brucke.
fifteene creitzers, for my horse-meat five creitzers, the
third part of a bushell of oates being here sold for twenty
foure creitzers. After dinner we rode in like way two
miles, to the City Lowen, and I paid for my supper Lowe,.
fifteene creitzers, for three little measures and a halfe of
oates, foureteene creitzers, for stable three creitzers, and
foure for dregs of wine to wash my horses feet. The
fifth day in the morning we rode two miles in like way
to a village, where I paid nine creitzers for my dinner,
and foure for my horse meat. After dinner we rode in
the like way, and over mountaines covered with snow,
three miles and a half'e, to a village, not farre from which,
Charles of Gratz, Arch-duke of Austria, (uncle by the
Father side to the Emperour Rodulphus, and Father to
the Q.geene of Poland, lately maried to King Sigismond,)
was of late buried in a Monastery neere Knettelfeld. In
this village I paid fourteene creitzers for my supper, and
twelve for my horse-meat. The sixth day in the morning
we rode one mile in like way, to Judenburg, that is, the Judenburg.
City of the Jewes, and I paid foureteene creitzers for
breakef'ast. Then we rode five miles in a stony way,
through high mountaines, to Newen-markt, and I paid
eighteene creitzers for my supper, and fifteene for my
horse-meat. In this Countrey of Styria, many men and
weomen have great wens hanging downe their throats,
by drinking the waters that run through the mines of
mettals.
The seventh day in the morning we rode two miles
to the confines of Styria, and entring Carinthia, passed Carnthia.
by the City Freysacke, in which was a faire and strong
Castle, seated upon a high mountaine, and so wee passed
one mile further to a village, all our way having beene
very troublesome, by reason of the stony mountaines,
and narrow passages, we having a coach in our company.
x43

tAt'oats.
[I. i. 68. 3

4 Bishop
illtd by
Boleslaus
King of
Poland.

Villake.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Heere I paied twenty foure creitzers for my dinner, and
fourteene for my horse-meat. After dinner wee rode two
miles in a plaine compassed with mountaines, to Sternfield ;
where I paied ninteene creitzers for my supper, and
sixteene for my horse-meat. The eight day in the
morning we rode one mile, through a fruitfull plaine of
corne, to a pleasant City, Saint Voyte. As in Styria, so
here in Carinthia, the men and women have great wens
upon their throats, with drinking the waters that passe
the Mines. Heere I paied for my dinner and supper
forty eight creitzers, and twenty foure for my horse-meat,
for we staid here to rest our horses, and every day we
tooke shorter journies, because wee had a Coach in our
company, which could hardly passe the streights and stony
waies of the Alpes, and in no other part of the Alpes,
they use at any time to passe with Coaches, but here very
seldome, in respect of the ill way. The ninth day we
rode three miles, through a fruitful plaine of corne, to
Feldkirken, where I paid nine creitzers for my dinner,
and foure for my horse-meat. After dinner we rode about
two miles, by the side of a lake on our left hand towards
the South, beyond which lake Boleslaus King of Poland
lies buried in a Monastery, who having killed a Bishop,
warning him to amend his life, did upon his owne free
will doe penance there, taking the habit of a Monke, and
serving in the same Cloyster, as a lay brother to warme
stoves: but the Polackes say, that the body of the dead
Bishop did many miracles, whereupon with great expence
of treasure, they of late obtained at Rome, to have him
made a Saint. And so we came to a village where 1
paid twenty creitzers for my supper, thirteene for my
horse-meat, and eight for drinke after supper. The tenth
day in the morning we rode about a mile, through high
and rocky mountaines, to the City Villake, by which the
River Draw runneth, and here I omitted my expences.
After dinner we rode three miles, through high and rocky
mountaines, and a narrow way; and our Coachman by
the way shewed us uppon the left hand towards the South,

I44

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

a benevolence of us, which we willingly gave, and our
.companions paid foure Venetian lires for the foure horses
jn their Coach, but wee that were horsemen paid no
tribute. Here we had another passe-port to be shewed
at Venzona. I paid at Pontena thirty sols of Venice for
my supper, thirty five for oates, and ten for hey.
And give me leave to remember, that I having for the
cold at Dantzke, in the beginning of September, put on
a woollen wasecoat, was forced now at the entring of
Great heat in Italy, for great heat in the end of October, to put off
october, the same.
The twelfth day in the morning wee rode foure miles
(meaning Dutch miles, though wee be now entered into
Italy, because my Dutch companions so reckoned them.)
[I. i. 69. ] We now had entred the Italian Province Frioly, which
the Latines call Forum Julii; because the Legions used
to be sent from hence over the Alpes, & the Venetians
call Patria, that is country; because the Venetians fled
from hence, into the Lakes of Venice, when Attila King
of the Hurts invaded Italy, by this name acknowledging
it to be their country, from whence they originally came.
Aquilegia the seat of the Patriarkes, destroyed by Attila,
was of old famous; but the Venetians by the Popes
favour, have drawne the Patriarkes seat to Venice. By
The River the way wee passed seven branches of the River
Tagliamonti. Tagliamonti on horse-backe without boats, the streame
being so violent by the waters falling from the mountaines,
that it dazels the eyes, if the passenger looke upon the
water; for which cause wee passed warily, turning our
eyes from the water, and having guides passing before
us, to try and shew us the Fordes. By the way upon a
bridge, this was written in Latine:
For the carrying over of Dutch merchandize, by
the streames of Ledra, S. S. President of the
Province, speedily built this Bridge.
So wee came through a plaine somewhat wilde, or lesse
fruitfull, to Spilenburg; where I paied twenty one sols
146

FROM VIENNA TO PADUA

for my dinner, eight for oats, and foure for hay. After
dinner we rode two Dutch miles, through wild stony
fields, to Sanvocate, where I paid thirty sols for my supper,
thirty two for oats, and ten for hay. The thirteenth day
in the morning, we rode three Dutch, or fourteen Italian
miles; through wilde grounds, and stony fields of corne,
and neere our journies end, by many Orchardes and Vine-
yards, to Konian, where I omitted my expence. By the
way wee met a Gentleman, in his coach drawne with oxen.
After dinner wee rode two Dutch, or eight Italian miles,
and in a wilde field, passed two branches of a river by
a boat, in which we sate on horse-backe; and we paied
sixteene sols for our passage, and thence wee came to a
village, where I paied forty sols for my supper, twenty
three for oats, and ten for hay. And comming hither on
All-soules evening, which they keepe with great super-
stition, wee could not sleepe for little bels tinckling all
night. The fourteenth day in the morning, we rode six
Italian miles, through fruitfull hils of corne, and by
pleasant Vineyards, to Trevigi, a City little in circuit,
but fortified, and built of bricke, with arches hanging
over the streets, under which men walke dry in the greatest
raine, where I have omitted my expences.
After breakefast we rode twenty two Italian miles,
through a most pleasant plain, in which we passed over
a river, and came to Paduoa. Here I sold my horse for
twenty silver crownes, which I bought at Crakaw for
eighteene guldens; and by the way, I might have sold
him for twenty six crownes or more, and from the place
where I sold him, might easily have hired a coach or
horses to Paduoa, but my foolish hope to sell him deerer,
and desire to save the charge of hiring a coach, or horse,
kept me from selling him by the way, whereof I repented
when I came to Paduoa, where horse-meat was very deere,
and the horse-coarsers finding that I must needs sell him,
agreed among themselves, so craftily, sending mee every
day new buyers, to offer mee lesse then before they had
offered, as when I had kept him fourteene dayes, I must
I47

I593.

Sanvocate.

Beh tinckling
on lllqouh
evening.

Crafty horse-
coarsers.

Charges for
Students at
Paduoa.

[I. i. 70.]

Strangers
spend more in
Venice than in
Paduoa.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

have beene forced to sell my horse at their price, if I
had not found an English Gentleman by chance, who
returning into Germany, gave mee twenty crownes for
my horse. I staied all this winter at Paduoa, in which
famous University I desired to perfect my Italian tongue,
where a Student may have his table at an Ordinary
(vulgarly a la dozena) and his chamber for eight, or at
most, for tenne silver crownes the month: but few live
after this fashion, save the Dutch, and strangers new
arrived, and having not yet got the language; but rather
they hire a chamber, which is to be had for a zechine, or
tenne lires the month, or at a lower rate, the Hostesse
being to finde linnen, and dresse the meat you buy. My
Hoste had a large house, with a faire court, hired yeerly
for forty crownes, and with him, my selfe and some Dutch
men lodged, each having his chamber and plentifull diet,
for eight silver crownes the month.
When I went to Venice, I lodged with an Hostesse, an
old widow, which had a house like a Pallace ; for which,
he paied two hundred crownes yeerely, and there I paied
for a chamber foure silver crownes by the month, every
man there buying meat at his pleasure, which the Hostesse
dresseth ; and findes linnen.
But that the price of things may better appeare, it will
not be amisse particularly to set some prices downe for
both Cities; for howsoever strangers spend more in
Venice, then in Paduoa ; yet that is not by reason of diet,
but for the greater price of chambers, and extraordinary
inticements to spend. The prices I will briefly set downe,
in some few particulars, because in the due place treating
of diet, I am to speake more largely thereof. It is the
fashion of Italy, that onely men, and the Masters of the
family, goe into the market and buy victuals, for servants
are never sent to that purpose, much lesse weomen, which
if the.y be chast, rather are locked up at home, as it were
in prison. Againe, the small coines of brasse, are very
helpefull to the poore, all victuals being sold in small
portions, according to the smallest money, yea, the very
148

COMMENTS UPON PADUA

spices, which in the shoppes are put up in papers, ready
beaten, according to greater or the very least coynes. The
Italians are sparing in diet, but particularly at Paduoa,
the markets abound rather with variety, then quantities
of meat. Some hundreds of turkies hang out to be sold,
for six or seven lires each, according to the goodnes. And
this territory yeelding better corn then other parts, they
have very white bread, light, & pleasant in tast, especially
that which is called Pan-buffetto. I remember I bought
a pound of mutton for five sols and a halle, of veale for
eight, of porke for eight, a fat hen for two lires, eight
little birds for six sols, a great and fat pigeon for two
lires, a pullet for thirty five, and sometime forty sols, an
Eeele after ten sols the pound, krevises the pound three,
and sometimes six sols, a pike the pound seven or eight
sols, round cockles the hundred three sols, the longe, which
we call rasers, the hundreth twenty sols, the skalops which
they call holy cockels, twelve for a lire, Cheverns the
pound foure sols, a plaise sixe sols, tenches the pound
eight sols, sawsages the pound ten sols, sixe egges eight
sols, butter the pound fourteene sols, piacentine cheese
the pound six sols, and parmesan the pound ten or twelve
sols, a measure of salt for the table foure sols, rice the
pound three sols, ten snailes foure sols, apples the pound
two sols, peares & wardens the pound foure sols, chesnuts
the pound three sols, dry grapes the pound two sols,
sometimes three; almonds the pound five sols, six orenges
for one gaget, a pomegranat one sol, oyle the pound ten
sols, a secchio of wine thirty five sols, or the pound thereof
eight sols, waxe candles the ounce two sols, and ten small
waxe candles twenty two sols, other candles the pound
sixteene sols, or foureteene if they be little, a quire of
.writing paper five sols. The Hostesse dresseth your meat
in the bargaine for your chamber, and findes you napkins,
tableclothes, sheetes, and towels; and either in your chest
or her owne, will lay up the meat, and very bread you
leave, more providently then any of our parts would
require; and little boyes attend in the market places with
I49

Price, of
victuals in
Paduoa.

The ttostesse
ery
provident.

b. /Inenor.

Paduoa spoiled
by the Hunnes.

[I. i. 7*-]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

baskets, who for a soll will carry home the meat you buy ;
and dare not deceive you though you goe not with them.
I paid to my taylor for making a cloake foure lires, and
for my doublet and hose eight lires; to my laundresse
for making a shirt a lire, that is, twenty sols; for washing
it two sols; and for washing foure handkerchers one sol.
And this shall suffice for particular expences.
The City Paduoa, was built by Anterior a Trojan, and
the Heneti driven out of their Countrey, joined them-
selves to these Trojans. These with joint force drove
out the Euganei from the fertile Euganean hils neere
Paduoa, where Hercules left them, and these Heneti gave
to their posterity the name of Venetians, to whom the
Colonies of Tuscany joined themselves, then the French
subdued all this Province, till at last they subjected them-
selves to the Romans, and were made Citizens of Rome.
The Roman Empire declining, the Visigothes under
Alaricus drove the chiefe Citizens of Paduoa, into the
lakes of Venice. Then Attila King of the Hunnes spoiled
Paduoa, and the Longobards burnt it, which being rebuilt,
and flourishing under the German Emperors, Acciolinus
usurped the governement thereof, in the yeere 1237.
But Pope Alexander the fourth helped by the Venetians,
restored it to liberty in the yeere I2a 7. In the faction
of the Guelphes & Gibellines, Paduoa then & from that
time hath bin subject to many Princes of the Scaligers,
& Cararrians, til about the yeere 14o. the Venetians
tooke the City, which they held to the yeere I aO 9. when
the French King Lewis made them yeeld to the Emperour ;
but the Venetians after two moneths recovered it, and
to this day it is subject to them, who send a Magistrate
called Podesta, every fifteene moneths to governe it.
Some say Paduoa was first called Antenoria (as the Heneti
gave the name of Venice to the Countrey) till after
Anteriors death, the Heneti called it Paduoa, of a City
in their Countrey whence they were driven. Others say
it hath the name from a Greeke word, upon the flying
of Swannes: others say it is so called of the river Po,

x5 o

the Rivers.

Five market
places.

St..4nthony's
Chappdl.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Paduoa, the greater takes the name Bachilio, and neere
to the wals of Paduoa, receives the waters of Brentella,
increased with a branch of Brenta. These Rivers enter
the City, and with divers channels drive many mils,
compasse the wals, and not onely make the fields fertile,
but serve to carry all commodities (abounding here) from
hence to Venice, and to bring from thence such things
as they want, and besides doe cleanse all filth of the stables
and privies.
The aire at Paduoa is very healthfull, and the building
is with arches of stone, .hanging over the streets, under
which they walke dry in the greatest raine; but the
streetes are thereby made narrow, and in the middest
are dirty. There be five market places: in the first the
Gentlemen and Students meet and walke: in the second
herbes are sold, in the third corne: in the fourth wood,
and in the fifth straw. The aforesaid monastery of Saint
Anthony, is inhabited by Franciscan Friars, and is much
fairer then any other religious house ; the Church whereof
was of old dedicated to Juno, and after to the Virgin
Mary; and at last to Saint Anthony. The pavement
thereof is of marble, and the building very stately, having
in the top seven globes covered with lead, and three high
towers. The Chappell wherein St. Anthony lies, is all
of marble, & round about it the miracles are engraven,
which they attribute to this Saint: at whose feast day
they use to present for great gifts the hallowed girdles
of this St., which they tie about their loyns, and attribute
strange effects thereunto. Here is a statua of marble,
erected to Peter Bembus; and in the large yard there
is a horse-mans statua of brasse, which the Senate of
Venice erected to Gatta Melata. In the Church of
Franciscan Minorites, there is a statua erected to Roccha
Benello, a Physitian, sitting in his chaire. In the aforesaid
monastery of Saint Justina, the order of Saint Benedict
was first established, and from thence dispersed into Italy,
and the Church thereof was of old dedicated to Concord,
and after being made the Bishops Church, was endowed

COMMENTS UPON PADUA
I593-
with great rents. These Monkes have a blacke habit, [I. i. 72.]
and in the Church they shew the reliques of the Martyr Rdiques of
Saint Justina, of Saint Prosdosimus a Greeke, (who is Saint Justina.
said to have beene Saint Peters Disciple, and to have
converted Paduoa, and to have baptised Saint Justina,
when shee suffered Martyrdome) and likewise of Saint
Maximus (both Bishops, and protecting Saints of the
City,) as also of Saint Luke the Evangelist, brought by
Urius a Monke from Constantinople; but the Venetians
say the reliques of Saint Luke are with them. Biondus
writeth, that here was a Church dedicated to Jupiter, and
the sepulcher of Titus Livius. In the first court yard
of this Monastery, the incredible miracles of Saint
Benedict are painted. In the second I found this
Epitaph :

Adolescens tametsi properas,
Hoc te saxum rogat ut se aspicias;
Deinde quod scripture est legas.
Hic sunt Poetre Pacuvii sita ossa:
Hoc volebam nessius ne esses: vale.
Do M.

Young man tho thou hastest
This stone desires thee to behold it;
Then to read that is written.
Here are laid the bones of the Poet Pacuvius,
This I would have thee know: Farewell.
Do M.

A large and pleasant meadow lies before this Monastery. Monasterie
There is another of the Benedictines in this City, but inPaduoa.
those Friers weare a white habit, & live with more severe
rules. In the Monastery of Saint Augustines Hermits,
before named, are the sepulchers of the Princes of the
family Carraria. The Cathedrall Church was of old
Magnificall, and to this day hath twelve Churches under
it within the City. The Marble chest containing
Antenors bones, being found when the foundation of the

EpitaA on
Anterior.

TAe Trojan
horse of wood.

[I. i. 73-]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Alines-house was digged, was then brought to the Church
of Saint Laurence; wherein was found a guilded sword,
and Latine verses in a barbarous stile, shewing that the
Letter A, should be fatall to the City; which they say
to have proved true by Attila, Agilulfus, Acciolanus,
Ansedissus and Albertus: under whom the City was
much afflicted. This chest is erected upon Marble pillers
at the doore of the Church, and upon the wall these verses
are written in Latine:
Inclitus Antenor post diruta mcenia Troia,
Transtulit huc Henetum Dardanidumue fugas,
Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit trbem,
Qem tenet hac humili marmore casa Domus.
Famous Antenor, Troyes walles pulled downe,
Henets and Dardans remnant here did traine;
Expeld th' Euganeans, built faire Paduoa Towne,
Whom this low Marble house doth here containe.

Another Epitaph of the same Antenor, seemes lately
written by the very name of the City, and savoureth a
Transalpine wit, giving small credit to Livy, or their
fabulous Antiquities :
Hic jacet Antenor Paduana conditor urbis,
Proditor ipse fuit hique sequuntur eum.
Antenor Padoaes founder lieth heere,
He was a Traytor, these him follow neere.

The Monument of the Trojan horse of wood, is kept
in the Pallace of the Capilist family, whereupon they are
called the Capilists of the horse. There bee eighteene
Cloysters of Nunnes in the City, and two of repenting
or illuminate women, so they call whores entring Cloysters.
About the middest of the City is a faire Pallace, where
the Venetian Podesta or governour dwels, the gallery
whereof (in which hee sitteth to judge causes) is very
large, and hath a high arched roofe hanging by Art, not
I54

COMMENTS UPON PADUA

sustained by any pillers, and the same is covered with
lead, and adorned with many pictures of the famous
Painter Zoto, and the length thereof is one hundred forty
walking paces, the breadth forty three paces. There is
the Statua of Julius Paulus, Doctor of Civill Law, and
of Peter Aponensis, or, d'Abano, and of Titus Livius,
and of Albertus the Hermitan, placed over the foure
dores. At the West end of this gallery, is a Monument
of Titus Livius the Historian carved within the wall, and
these verses are written upon the wall in Latine:
Ossa tuumque caput, cives tibi maxime Livi,
Prompto animo hic omnes composuere tui:
Tu famam eternam Rome, patrieque dedisti,
Huic oriens, illi fortia facta canens.
At tibi dat Patria hec: & si majora liceret,
Hoc totus stares aureus ipse loco.
Greatest Livy, thy countrey men have laid,
Thy head and bones here with a ready minde :
Thy Countrey, and Rome thou hast famous made,
Here borne, while their greatest acts thou hast refinde :
Thy Countrey gives thee this, if more it might,
Here all in gold thou shouldst stand shining bright.
This Titus Livius died in the fourth yeere of the
Empire of Tiberius Cesar, and in the sixty six yeere of
his age. Not farre from this Monument stands a brazen
Image of the same Livy, with this inscription in Latine :
The bones of Titus Livy of Paduoa, by all mortall
mens consent worthy, by whose penne truely invincible,
the Acts of the invincible Roman people should be
written.
Besides, they shew in the City Titus Livius his house.
And this Monument, or these bones of him were brought
thither from the Monastery of Saint Justina. The Court
where the Senate meetes, lieth neere to the said gallery
of this Pallace; where there is a stone, which they call
the stone of Turpitude, (that is, filthines or disgrace :)

I593.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

whereupon debtors, which disclaim the having of goods
to pay their debts, do sit with their hinder parts bare;
that with this note of disgrace, others may be terrified
from borrowing more then they can pay. They have a
Pest-house called Lazaretto, & two like houses for Lepers,
and one Alines-house for the poore strangers, another
for Orphanes, and a third for children cast out, or left
in the streets. Neere the Church of Saint Lucia, there
The Divds is a Well, called the Divels Well; which they say was
Well. brought into the street by Art Magick, out of the court-
yard of a Gentleman, denying water to his neighbours.
This City hath little trafficke, though it lies very fit for
the same, because the Venetians draw it all to themselves.
But Gentlemen of all Nations come thither in great
Tefa,nous numbers, by reason of the famous University, which the
University. Emperour Frederick the second, being offended with the
City of Bologna, planted here in the yeere i222, or there
abouts, some comming to study the civill Law, other the
Mathemetickes, & Musick, others to ride, to practise the
Art of Fencing, and the exercises of dancing and activity,
under most skilful professors of those Arts, drawn hither
by the same reason. And Students have here great, if
not too great liberty & priviledges, so as men-slaiers are
only punished with banishment, which is a great mischiefe,
and makes strangers live there in great jealousie of treason
to be practised against their lives. The Schoole where
the professors of liberall Sciences teach, is seated over
against Saint Martins Church, and was of old a publike
Inne, having the signe of an Oxe, which name it still
retaineth. The promotion of degrees is taken in the
Bishops hall, neere the Cathedrall Church, and the Doctors
are made in the chiefe Church. And there bee eight
Colledges built for poore Students of severall Provinces.
The Athestine family of the Dukes of Ferrara, and
[I. i. 74.] the Honorian family, of the tyrant Acciolinus, and the
Carrarian family of their owne Princes, had their beginning
in this City, as they write. And they doe no lesse
triumph of divers Citizens borne heere, namely Marsilius,
i56

Certificatet af
Health.

4n. 594.

THE SECOND BOOKE.

Chap. I.
my journey from Paduoa, to Venice, to
Ferraria, to Bologna, to Ravenna, and by the
shore of the Adriaticke Sea, to Ancona : then
crossing the breadth of Italy, to Rome, seated
not farre from the Tirrhene Sea.
Hosoever comes into Italy, and from
whence soever; but more especially if
he come from suspected places, as Con-
stantinople, never free from the plague;
hee must bring to the Confines a certificate
of his health, and in time of any plague,

hee must bring the like to any City within
land, where he is to passe, which certificates brought from
place to place, and necessary to bee carried, they curiously
observe and read. This paper is vulgarly called Bolletino
della sanita; and if any man want it, bee is shut up in
the Lazareto, or Pest-house forty dayes, till it appeare
he is healthfull, and this they call vulgarly far' la
quarantana. Neither will the Officers of health in any
case dispence with him, but there hee shall have con-
venient lodging, and diet at his pleasure.
In the spring of the yeere, 594, (the Italians beginning
the yeere the first of January) I began my journey to
see Italy, and taking boat at the East gate of Paduoa,
the same was drawne by horses along the River Brenta;
5 8

1594.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

passengers often smiled, seeing the girle not oneIy crosse
her selfe for feare, but thrust her crucifix towards the
old womans eyes. I said formerly that two Rivers
Medoaci, runne through Paduoa, and that the greater
by the name of Brenta, running to the village Lizzafusina,
is stopped with a damme, lest it should mingle it selfe
with the salt marshes of Venice, and that also the lesser
Te River River by the name of Bachilio, passeth through Paduoa.
Bacilio. This lesser streame runneth thence into the ditch Clodia,
and going out of it makes a haven, called de Chiozza,
which lieth in the way from Venice to Farraria, and there
it divideth it selfe into two streames; and entring the
salt marshes, makes the haven of Venice, called Mala-
mocco. Besides other Rivers falling from the Alpes,
through Frioli, do increase these marshes, which are salt
by the tides of the sea, though the same doth very little
ebbe or flow in this Mediterranean, or Inland sea. And
this haven Malamocco is very large and deep, and is
defended with a banke from the waves of the Adriatique
sea.

The Description of Venice.
Upon the West side of Venice beyond the marshes,
lies the Territory of Paduoa. On the North side beyond
the marshes, lies the Province Frioli. On the South side
[I. ii. 76.] beyond the marshes, lies partly the firme land of Italy,
and partly the Adriatique sea; On the East side beyond
the marshes lies the Adriatique sea, and the City consisteth
all of Iles, compassed round about with the saide marshes.
A The great channell.
B The market place of Saint Marke, seated in the
first Sextary of Saint Marke.
C The Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter, the seate of
the Patriarkes, seated in the second Sextary, called Castelli
Olivolo.
D The third Sextary on this side the channell, called
di Canarigio.
E The Church of Saint James lies neere the bridge
i6o

COMMENTS UPON VENICE A.D.
594-
joyned in one, and at this day is vulgarly called Venegia.
That the City was first called Rialto, appeares by old T,e City
records of Notaries, written in these wordes: After the fl,.a called
Rialto.
use of Venice. In the name of eternal1 God, amen:
subscribed in such a yeere of Rivoalto, and in these
wordes after the use of the Empire; In the name of
Christ, amen: subscribed, dated at Venice. This stately
City built in the bottome of the gulfe of the Adriatiqu.e
sea; in the midst of marshes upon many Ilands, Is
defended on the East side against the sea, by a banke
of earth, which hath five (or some say seven) mouths or
passages into the sea; and is vulgarly called Il Lido:
and being so placed by nature, not made by Art, bendeth
like a bowe, and reacheth thirty five miles; and by the
aforesaid passages, the ships and the tides of the sea
goe in and out, and the deepe marshes whereof I have
spoken, are made of these salt waters, and of divers fresh
waters falling from the Alpes, and vulgarly called, il
Tagliamonti La livenza, la praac, la Brenta, I1 Po, 1'
Adice, and il Bacchiglione. On the West side, the City re, ice corn-
is compassed with marshes, and after five miles with the passed u, itA
Territory of Paduoa. On the North side with marshes, raarses.
and beyond them partly with the Province Frioli, partly
with the aforesaid sea banke. And upon the South side
with many Ilands, wherein are many 'Churches and
Monasteries, like so many Forts, and beyond them with
the firme land of Italy. The City is eight miles in circuit,
and hath seventy parishes, wherein each Church hath a
little market place, for the most part foure square, and
a publike Well. For the common sort use well water,
and raine water kept in cesternes; but the Gentlemen
fetch their water by boat from the land. It hath thirty
one cloysters of Monkes, and twenty eight of Nunnes,
besides chappels and alines-houses. Channels of water
passe through this City (consisting of many Ilands joy.ned
with Bridges) as the bloud passeth through the velnes
of roans body; so that a man may passe to what place
he will both by land and water. The great channell is
t6 3

I594.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

in length about one thousand three hundred paces, and
in breadth forty paces, and hath onely one bridge called
Rialto, and the passage is very pleasant by this channell;
being adorned on both sides with stately Pallaces. And
that men may passe speedily, besides this bridge, there
Boat cMlea be thirteene places called Traghetti, where boats attend
Gondole. called Gondole; which being of incredible number give
ready passage to all men. The rest of the channels
running through lesse streets, are more narrow, and in
them many bridges are to be passed under. The afore-
said boats are very neat, and covered all save the ends
with black cloth, so as the passengers may goe unseene
and unknowne, and not bee annoyed at all with the sunne,
winde, or raine. And these boats are ready at call any
minute of the day or night. _And if a stranger know
not the way, hee shall not need to aske it, for if hee will
follow the presse of people, hee shall be sure to bee
brought to the market place of Saint Marke, or that of
Rialto; the streets being very narrow (which they pave
with bricke,) and besides if bee onely know his Hosts
name, taking a boat, he shall be safely brought thither
at any time of the night. Almost all the houses
have two gates, one towards the street, the other
towards the water; or at least the bankes of the
channels are so neere, as the passage by water is as
easie as by land. The publike boats, with the private
of Gentlemen and Citizens, are some eight hundred, or
as others say, a thousand. Though the floud or ebbe
of the salt water bee small, yet with that motion it
carrieth away the filth of the City, besides that, by the
multitude of tiers, and the situation open to all windes,
The ayre e'ery the ayre is made very wholsome, whereof the Venetians
wholsome, bragge, that it agrees with all strangers complexions, by
a secret vertue, whether they be brought up in a good
or ill ayre, and preserveth them in their former health.
[I. ii. 78.] And though I dare not say that the Venetians live long,
yet except they sooner grow old, and rather seeme then
truly be aged: I never in any place observed more old
i64

COMMENTS UPON VENICE

men, or so many Senators venerable for their grey haires
and aged gravity. To conclude, the situation of Venice
is such, as the Citizens abound with all commodities of
sea and land; and are not onely most safe from their
enemies on the land, being severed from it by waters,
and on the sea being hedged in with a strong sea banke,
but also give joyfull rest under their power to their
subje.cts on land, though exposed to the assault of their
enemies.
The City parted in the middest with the great channell,
comming in from the sea banke neere the two Castles,
is of old divided into six sextaries, or six parts, vulgarly
Sestieri ; three on this side the channell, and three beyond
the channell. The first sextary on this side the channell,
is that of Saint Marke; for howsoever it be not the
Cathedrall Church, yet it is preferred before the rest, as
well because the Duke resides there, as especially because
Saint Marke is the protecting Saint of that City. The
body of which Saint being brought hither by Merchants
from Alexandria : this Church was built in the yeere 829.
at the charge of the Duke Justinian, who dying, gave
by his last will great treasure to that use, and charged
his brother to finish the building, which was laid upon
the ruines of Saint Theodores Church, who formerly had
beene the protecting Saint of the City. And the same
being consumed with fire in the yeere 976. it was more
stately rebuilt, according to the narrownes of the place,
the Merchants being charged to bring from all places any
precious thing they could find fit to adorne the same,
whatsoever it cost. The length of the Church containeth
two hundred foot of Venice, the bredth fifty, the circuit
95o. The building is become admirable, for the singular
art of the builders and painters, and the most rare peeces
of Marble, Porphry, Ophites (stones so called of speckles
like a serpent) and like stones; and they cease not still
to build it, as if it were unfinished, lest the revenues given
by the last wils of dead men to that use, should returne
to their heires (as the common report goes.) There were
65

Aolo
x594.

The City
divided into
Six parts.

The Church
of Saint
Markc.

The Eraperaur
Fredericke
Barbarosa't
ubmiion.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

staires of old to mount out of the market place into the
Church, till the waters of the channell increasing, they
were forced to raise the height of the market place. On
the side towards the market place are five doores of brasse,
whereof that in the middest is fairest, and the same, with
one more, are daily opened, the other three being shut,
excepting the dayes of Feasts. Upon the ground neere
the great doore, is a stone, painted as if it were engraven :
which painting is vulgarly called, A la Mosaica, and upon
this stone Pope Alexander set his foot upon the necke of
the Emperour Fredericke Barbarossa, adoring him after
his submission. The outward part of the Church is
adorned with 48. pillars of marble, whereof some are
Ophytes, that is speckled, and eight of them are Porphry
neere the great doore, which are highly esteemed. And
in all places about the Church, there be some six hundred
pillars of marble, besides some three hundred in the caves
under ground. Above these pillars on the outside of the
Church is an open gallery, borne up with like pillars, from
whence the Yenetians at times of Feasts, behold any
shewes in the market place. And above this gallery, and
over the great doore of the Church, be foure horses of
brasse, guilded over, very notable for antiquity and
beauty ; and they are so set, as if at the first step they
would leape into the market place. They are said to be
made to the similitude of the Horses of Phoebus, drawing
the Chariot of the Sunne, and to have beene put upon
the triumphall Arke of Nero, by the people of Rome,
when he had overcome the Parthians. But others say
that they were given to Nero by Tiridates the King of
Armenia, and were made by the hands of the famous
engraver Lisippus. These Horses Constantine removed
from Rome to Constantinople, and that City being sacked,
the Venetians brought them to Venice, but they tooke
of the bridles, for a signe that their City had never beene
conquered, but enjoied Virgin liberty. And all the parts
of these horses being most like the one to the other, yet
by strange art, both in posture of motion, and otherwise,
x66

COMMENTS UPON VENICE

foresaid chest) and part of the haire of the blessed Virgin,
and a peece of a finger of the Evangelist Luke, and a
peece of a ribbe of Saint Peter, with many like, which
they shew to the people to be adored certaine daies in
the yeere. Above the Altar of Saint Clement, these
verses are written, which shew how they worshipped
Images in a more modest though superstitious age.
Nam Deus est quod Imago docet, sed non Deus ipse
Hanc videas, sed mente colas quod cernis in ipsa:
That which the Image shewes, is God, it selfe is none,
See this, but God heere seene, in mind adore alone.

I594-

Likewise these verses of the same Author, be in another
place.
Effigiem Christi qui transis, pronus honora,
Non tamen effigiem sed quod designat adora.
Esse deum ratione caret, cui contulit esse
Materiale lapis, sicut & manus effigiale.
Nec Deus est nec homo, presens quam cernis Imago,
Sed Deus est & homo, quem sacra signat Imago.
As thou Christs Image passest, fall the same before,
Yet what this Image signifies, not it adore.
No reason that it should be God, whose essence stands
Materiall of stone, formall of workemens hands.
This Image which thou seest, is neither God nor Man,
But whom it represents, he is both God and Man.

[I. ii. 80.]

At the entry of the Chancell, is the throne of the
Dukes, made of walnut-tree, all carved above the head,
and when the Dukes sit there, it was wont to be covered
with carnation satten, but now it is covered with cloth
of gold, given by the King of Persia. There be two
stately pulpits of marble, with Histories carved in brasse,
where they sing the Epistles and Gospels. On the left
hand by the Altar of Saint James is a place, where (if a
man may beleeve it) the body of Saint Marke, by a crevice
69

the Duke.

594-
Gro$$
serstition.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

suddenly breaking through the marble stone, appeared
in the yeere zo94. to certaine Priests who had fasted
and praied to find the same, the memory of the place
where it was laied at the building of the Church about
829. being utterly lost. I beleeve that the memory
thereof was lost about the yeere 829. when superstition
was not yet ripe, but that it was found in the yeere z o94.
that age being infected with grosse superstition, let him
that list beleeve. They themselves seeme to distrust this
miracle, while they confesse that the same body was most
secretly laid under the great Altar, and never since shewed
to any man, but once or twice, and that after a suspicious
manner. To the foresaid pulpits another is opposite,
where the Musitians sing at solemne Feasts, and from
whence the Dukes newly created, are shewed to the people,
and likewise the holy relikes (as they tearme them) are
shewed twice in the yeere. The wals in the Church are
so covered with the best marbles, as the lime and bricke
cannot be seene: and these peeces of marble with their
spots and brightnes, are very beautifull, whereof two
are held for admirable Monuments, which are so joined,
as they lively represent the Image of a man. Here
Marino Morosini first of all the Dukes hung his Armes
uppon the wals, whom the other Dukes after him in number
forty three have followed, and there hung up their Armes.
In the middest of the Church hangs a banner, given by
the Citizens of Verona, in token of subjection, and two
others for the same purpose given by the Citizens of
Crema and Cremona. The Marble pillars set in Caves
under the Church, beare up the pavement, which is made
of peeces of the best marble, carved and wrought with
little stones of checker worke very curiously, especially
under the middle globe of the roofe, and neere the great
doore. And among the rare stones opposite to the singers
pulpit, they shew one of such naturall spots, as it is
esteemed a Jewel1, which by change of colour (they say)
doth shew the change of weather. Moreover they shew
certaine Images, carved by the direction of the Abbot

Jacob's Stone.

The Rocke
struck by
Moe.

Te chiefe
Priest.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the yeere o 3. I saw a saphyre of extraordinary bignes,
and a Diamond which the French King Henry the third
gave to this state, when he returned that way from Poland ;
and two whole Unicornes hornes, each more then foure
foot long, and a third shorter, and a little dish of a huge
price, with innumerable vessels, which for price, rarenes,
and workemanship, are highly valued. They say that a
Candian thiefe tooke away this treasure, which is kept
with many doores and barres of iron, but that he restored
it, being betraied by his fellow.
In a Chappell of this Church, is a Font of brasse, with
a brasen image of Saint John baptizing, and the Altar
thereof is of a stone brought out of Asia, upon which
they say Christ did sit, when he preached at Tyrus: but
others say it is the stone upon which the Patriarke Jacob
did sleepe. They shew there the chaire of the blessed
Virgin, of stone, and two peeces of marble spotted with
the blood of John Baptist, and the marble sepulcher of
Duke Andrea Dandoli. In the Chappell of the Cardinall
Zeno, they shew the Rocke strucke by Moses, and
distilling water, and two precious peeces of porphery.
In the upper Vestry they shew the picture of the V. irgin,
painted by Saint Lukes hand, and the ring of Saint Marke,
and his Gospell written with his owne hand, and a peece
of the Crosse of Christ, and of the Pillar to which he
was tied, and Bookes covered with massy silver, and
candlestickes, chalice, and many vessels of silver guilded,
all set with little precious stones, and the Bishops Miter
of great price, and many rich vestures for the Priests.
The chiefe Priest of this Church must be a gentleman
of Venice, and though hee be no Bishop, yet the Popes
have given him great priviledges, and he is to be chosen
by the Duke; because the Dukes built this Church,
whereupon it is ever since called the Dukes Chappell.
This Church of Saint Marke, is not unworthily called
the golden Church, for the rich ornaments thereof,
especially for the Images thereof, painted a la mosaica,
like a worke engraven. For the workemen doe incor-

COMMENTS UPON VENICE

porate gold with little square peeces of glasse, and guild
the same over ; then breaking them in very small peeces,
they lay them upon the pictures.
Among the Parish Churches belonging to Saint Marke,
is the Chappell of Saint Theodore, where the Inquisitors
of Religion sit thrice a weeke : namely the Popes Nuntio,
and the Patriarke (an Inquisitor by his place, and at this
time a Dominican Friar) and three Senators chosen by
the Senate. Likewise the little, but most faire Church
of Saint Geminian, is seated in the market place of Saint
Marke, whose Priest, according to the custome of Venice,
is chosen by them that have unmoveable goods in the
Parish, and is confirmed by the Patriarke, in which Church
the most notable things are, three Images graven upon
the great Altar, and the sepulcher of John Peter Stella,
Great Chancellor, and the Altar of Lodovico Spinello, and
the Monument of James and Francis Sansovine, famous
engravers. In the Church of Saint Mary Zebenigo, the
Monuments of Sebastian Foscarini, a Phylosopher, and
of Jerome Molini, a Florentine Poet, and the picture of
the Lords Supper. In the Church Saint Vitale, the
artificiall statua of that Saint on horsebacke. In the
Church Saint Angelo, built by the family of the Morosini,
the Altar of the holy Sacrament. In the Church of Saint
Fantino, the Architecture, and among other Images, the
head of a Crucifix, and the singular Images of the blessed
Virgin, and Saint John, painted standing by the Crosse.
In the Vestry of Saint Fantino (whose Monkes use to
accompany and comfort those that are executed) the two
Altars, and in the first of them the brasen Images of the
blessed Virgin and Saint John, and in the second the
excellent Marble Image of Saint Jerome. In the Parish
Church of Saint Luke, seated in the middest of the City,
a monument of foure most learned men, and another of
Peter Aretine, called the scourge of Princes, are the most
remarkable things. The Inquisitors worthily condemned
the bookes of this Aretine, for the filthinesse of them
(howsoever they be yet commonly sold) and the common
73

The PariJh
Churches.

[I. ii. 82.]

COMMENTS UPON VENICE

Altar ingraven with brasse, and the Monument of James
Suriani, and another of Anthony Cornari with this
inscription :

Antonii ad Cineres viator adsta
I:Iic Cornarius ille, quem solebant,
Rerum principia & Deos docentem
Olim Antenorire stupere Athenre,
Accitus Patrias subinde adoras,
Ornatus titulis fascibusque,
Doctrina venetam beavit urbem.

Inscription to
4nthony
Cornari.

At the ashes of Anthony, passenger stand,
This is that Cornarius whom of old,
Teaching the principles of Nature and the Gods,
Antenors Athens was wont to admire.
After called home to his Countrey,
Graced with Titles and Magistracy,
With his Learning he made Venice happy.

These things I say are in these Churches most remarkable.
The second sextary on this side the channell, vulgarly
I1 sestiero di Castello, hath the name of the Castle Olivolo,
which seated towards the sea, may seeme to be divided
from the Citie, yet it is joyned thereto by a long bridge.
Of old it was a City by it selfe, and therefore the Dukes
Throne being established in the Iland Realto, the Bishops
seat was made here, who is invested by the Duke, and
was consecrated by the Patriarke of Grado, till that being
extinguished, this was raised to the dignity of a Patriarke,
in the yeere I45o. In the Cathedrall Church of Saint
Peter, this is written upon the Chappell in Latine;

The Castle
Olivolo.

Who ere thou be that approachest, worship: Within [I. ii. 83.]
these grates of Iron the crosse is inclosed, that is adorned
with three haires of the beard of Christ, with a halle,
the cup in which he drunke to his Disciples, and with
a peece of the true Crosse, &c.
I75

1594.
Churche in
the second
Sextary.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

This Patriarcall seat hath two old pulpits of marble,
the monuments of the Bishops and Patriarkes, which with
the adjoining Pallace of the Patriarkes, are the most
remarkeable things thereof. In the Church of John
Baptist in Bragola, many curious pictures, the sepulcher
of that Saint guilded over, the Image of Christ, the
pictures of the lesse Altar, especially that of Christ
baptised, that of Saint Hellen, that of Christs resurrection,
and the lively picture of Christ sitting with his Apostles
at his last supper. In the Church of Saint Mary Formosa,
this inscription is read; Vincentius Capellus most skilful
in Navigation, and Prefect of the Gallies, no lesse praised
of old, who received signes of honour from Henry the
seventh, King of Britany, &c. There, upon the great
and very faire Altar, the Images of the foure Evangelists,
and upon the top, that of Christs resurrection, and of
two Angels. In the Church Saint Marina, the statua on
horsebacke erected by the Senate to Tadeo della volpe of
Imola, and the great Altar, with the pillars of porphry.
In the Church of Saint Leone, the Images of Saint Jerome,
of Christ at supper with his Disciples, of John the
Evangelist, and Saint Michaell, all painted by the hands
of most skilfull workemen. In the Church of Saint
Anthony, foure most faire Altars (in the second whereof
the Image of Christ, and in the third rich with excellent
pillars, the History of ten thousand Martyres painted,
and in the fourth the espousals of the blessed Virgin,
are al painted with singular Art) and a foot statua erected
by the Senate to Victor Pisanus. In the Church of Saint
E)ominicke, the library, and pictures of the Altars. In
the Church of Saint Francis di Paola, many things given
upon vow, and hung upon the wals. In that of Saint
Francis della vigna, a very faire and stately Church, the
Altar of the Chappell belonging to the Family Grimani,
and the pictures & brasen images of the same: and in
the Chappell of the Family Dandoli, the picture of Saint
Laurence martyred, and in the Chappell of the Justiniani,
being very rich, the Images of the foure Evangelists and
7 6

COMMENTS UPON VENICE ^.t,.
594.
twelve Prophets. In the Chappell of our Lady, the C,rces i,
monument of Marke, Anthony, Morosini, Knight and te sec0,a'
Procurator (famous in the warre which the French King sextary.
Lewis the twelfth, made in Lombardy, and thrice
Ambassador from the State) also the famous library of
this monastery, and the bels (which they say were brought
out of England after Qeene Maries death.) In the
Church of the Saints, John and Paul, (being one of the
chiefe Churches) the situation, the architecture, the
pictures, and the monuments of sixteene Dukes; and
another of Marke, Anthony, Bragadini (who having
defended the Iland Cyprus from the Turkes, when they
tooke it, had his skinne fleed off, by the command of the
tyrant, against his faith, in the yeere 57.) Also three
horsemens statuaes, one to Leonardo de Prato, Knight
of Rhodes, another to Nicholao Orsino Count of Pitiglia,
both erected in the Church, the third for greater honour
erected in the market place, to Bartholmeo Coleoni of
Bergamo, for his good service to the State in their Warres ;
all three erected by the Senate. Also a foot statua erected
by the Senate, to Dennys Naldo, a most valiant Com-
mander of their foote, an.d the stately sepulcher of James
de Cavallis, and the Chappell of the Rossary (magnificall
in the architecture, in rare marbles, in the art of engravers,
and excellent pictures, especially that of Christ crucified.)
In the Church of Saint Mary delle Virgini, (a Cloyster
of Nunnes, built by the Dukes, and belonging to them
by speciall right) two marble sepulchers. In the Church
Saint Gioseppe, the admirable monument of the Grimani
(with admirable Images engraven of the Duke Grimani
created, and his Dutchesse Morosini, crowned, and the
like curiously wrought:) also the Image of Christ trans-
figured, and another of Christ buried, are the most
remarkeable things. And whereas the graven images of
this Church, be of rare beauty, they say that the chiefe
of them were brought out of England, after the death
of Qeene Mary. In the Church of Saint Justina (a
parish Church, and yet the chiefe cloyster of Nunnes,
M. 77

A.D. FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY
I 594.
the great Altar, fairest of those built of wood. In the
The fairest Church of Saint Mary of the Miracles, the fairest of any
N,nnery. Nunnery, for the beauty and rare stones, the walles
covered with Marble, two Marble Images of two children
under the Organs, (the works of famous Praxitiles,) the
Images of marble of Paros, the stones of Porphery and
Ophytes wonderfully carved, the great Altar of Marble,
ingraven with great Art, the brasen Images of Saint Peter,
Saint Paul, and of Angels. These are the things most
remarkeable. In the Church of Saint Mary of Mercy,
Sansovine witnesseth this Epitaph, (which I will set
downe, lest any should thinke incredible the like practises
[I. ii. 83. ] of Papists against Emperours and John the King of
England,) in these words: To Jerom Savina, a Citizen
of Venice, Prior of Saint Maries, notably learned in good
Arts; but more renowmed for piety, which bee also
shewed at his death towards his enemy, who gave him
poyson in the challice at the Lords Supper, by many
arguments of his charity. He died in the yeere M D C I.
Also in the great schoole, the same is witnessed in these
wordes: To Jerom Savina wickedly killed by poyson
given, (O horrible villany) in our Lords Supper, &c.
The fou:th The fourth sextary or sixth part of the City, and first
Sexta,y. of those beyond the channell, (meaning towards the
Territorie of Paduoa,) is vulgarly called of the chiefe
Church I1 sestiero di San' Polo. In which Church of
Saint Paul, the most remarkeable things are these: the
picture of Christ washing his Apostles feet, the pall of
silver guilded, and the precious stones upon the great
Altar; the pictures of the Altar of the holy Sacrament,
and of the blessed Virgin, and the Images of Saint Andrew
and the Apostles upon pillars. In the very faire market
place of the same Church, of old a market was weekely
held, and to the yeere x292 , the market was held heere
on Wednesday, and in the market place of Saint Marke,
on the Saturday; but at this day none is held here, but
both in the place of Saint Marke, for the benefit of those
that dwell there, and that the houses may bee more deerely
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FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

like christall, which are esteemed for jewels. In the
Church of Saint Mary of Charity, the rich chappell of
San Salvadore. In the most faire Church of the
Capuchine Friars, seated in the Iland Giudecca, the images
of brasse, and the faire screene of the great Altar. In
the most faire Church of Saint Mary the greater, being a
Nunnery, the rare pictures of the greater chappell. In
the Church of the holy crosse Della Giudecca, the monu-
ment of the Cardinall Francis Morosini, sent Ambassador
to the Turke, and Nuncio to Pope Sixtus the fifth, in
the French Court: and here the rest of his Family use
to be buried. The Monastery of the converted is for
whores repenting. Another is built for Orphan Virgins,
the Church whereof hath rich screenes of marble, with
brasse images: and in the same live some two hundred
and fifty Virgins of almes, and by the worke of their
hands, which comming to ripe yeeres, are either married
or made Nunnes. These things are in this sextary most
remarkeable.
Six great The Venetians have six fraternities or great schooles,
schooles, such as be also at Rome, and the Gentlemen and Citizens
all give their names to one of them, as in England at
London, the Citizens have companies, into which the
King, Q.geene, and Nobles, many times vouchsafe to be
admitted. And in these schooles, as it were in Uni-
versities, they use to have exercises of religion. The
first of them is called Saint Mary of Charity, after the
rule whereof, the rest are framed, and the great Guardian
[t. ii. 85.] thereof is chosen yeerly, and weares a skarlet gowne with
large sleeves, which they call Ducall sleeves, and he hath
the title of Magnifico by priviledge. These schooles
give dowries yeerely to 1500. Virgins, and distribute
among the poore much money, meale, and clothes: for
besides many gifts by last testaments daily given to those
uses, each of the schooles hath some five or sixe thousand
duckets in yeerely revenew, and they are governed like
common wealthes. In the said schoole, the Images of
the Apostles, and the pictures, especially one of the blessed
I84

COMMENTS UPON VENICE

Virgin, and another of the foure Doctors of the Church,
are very faire. In the schoole of Saint John the
Evangelist, the passion of Christ is wonderfully figured,
and Phillip the second King of Spaine, and his sonne
Ferdinan.d, and Don John of_Austria, and other Princes,
have beene of this fraternity. The third is of mercy.
The fourth of Saint Marke. The fifth of Saint Rocco,
passing the rest in ceremonies & pompe, and number of
brethren. The sixth is of Saint Theodore, and each of
these hath his Church and Pallace, and precious monu-
ments, and these are subject to the counsell of ten; for
there be many lesse schooles, each art having his schoole,
and these are subject to the old Justice, and out of them
when need is, souldiers are pressed.
It remaines to adde something of the magnificall The Markct
building of this City. And in the first place, the market
place of Saint Marke is paved with bricke, and it consists
of foure market places, joined in one; whereof two may
rather be called the market places of the Dukes Pallace
(joining to the Church of Saint Marke) the one being
on the furthest side from Saint Marke, betweene the
pallace and the great channell, the other right before the
pallace towards the channell, foure hundred foot in length,
and some one hundred and thirty in bredth. The third
is before the Church doore of Saint Mark, and lies in
length five hundred and twenty foot towards the Church
of Saint Geminiano, and hath one hundred and thirty
foot in bredth, which may more properly be called the
market place of Saint Marke. The fourth is on the other
side of the Church, towards the Church of Saint Basso.
In this market place of foure joined in one, are solemne
spectacles or shewes, and all processions made, and there
on Ascention day, is the Faire held, and the markets on
wednesday and saterday: there they use to muster
souldiers; and there the gentlemen and strangers daily
meet and walke. Before the doore of Saint Markes
Church, are three peeces of brasse carved, and for bignesse
like the bodies of trees, upon which at festivali daies
85

4 Remarkc-
able Clocke.

The Pallaces
of te
Procurators.

[I. ii. 86.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

three rich banners are hung in slgne of liberty, or as others
say, for the three Dominions of Venice, Cypro, and
Candia.
Under the tower of the Clocke, fifty foot distant from
Saint Markes Church, is a passage to and from this market
place; and this tower all covered with marble, beares
a remarkeable Clocke, which sheweth the course of the
Sunne and the Moone daily, and the degrees they passe,
and when they enter into a new signe of the Zodiacke,
and above that the guilded Image of our Lady shineth,
placed betweene two doores, out of one of which doores,
onely at solemne Feasts, an Angell with a Trumpet, and
the three Wise Men of the East following, passe before
our Ladies Image, and adore her, and so goe in at the
other doore. Above that, there is a carved Image of a
Lyon with wings, and upon the very top, two brasen
Images, called the Mores, which by turnes striking with
a hammer upon a great bell, sound the houres.
The houses opposite to the Pallaces of the Procurators
of Saint Marke, are called the houses of the State, and
they belong to the Church of Saint Marke, and having
some fifty shops under the Arches of the upper roofes
(where men may walke dry when it raines) they yeeld
great rents to the Church. Opposite to these are the
Pallaces of the said Procurators, which are also in the
said market place, which I said to be more properly called
the market place of Saint Marke, and these being stately
built, sixty sixe foot high, and the stones curiously carved,
doe not onely adorne the market place, but in summer
give a pleasant shade to passengers, besides that under
the Arches of them, men may walke drie in the greatest
raine, and the shops under these Arches yeeld great rents,
and under these Pallaces out of foure little streetes there
be so many passages to and from the market place. These
Pallaces are built at the charge of the State, the nine
Procurators being to have nine Pallaces." for as yet they
were not all built; but in the meane time any pallace
falling voide, it was given to the eldest of them that had
186

COMMENTS UPON VENICE
1594.
none, yet not according to their age, but according to their
election.
The steeple or belfrey of Saint Marke, distant some The Be'ey
eighty foote from the Church, and set over against it, is of Saint
to be admired, not onely for the foundation, strangely laid Marhe.
under the earth; but also for many other causes. It is
built foure square, each square containing forty foot, and
it is three hundred thirty three foot high, of which feet
the pinacle containes ninety sixe, and the woodden Image
of an Angell above the pinacle covered with brasse and
uilded, and turning with the wind, containes sixteene
ete. It is adorned with high pillars of marble, and
with a gallery at the bottome of the pinacle, made with
many pillars of brasse, and upon the pinacle with great
marble Images of Lyons, and from the top in a cleere
day, men may see a hundred miles off the ships under
sayles ; and it beares foure great bels, whereof the greater
called La Trottiera, is rung every day at noone, and when
the Gentlemen meet in Senate with like occasions: but
when a new Pope or Duke is made, all the bels are rung,
and the steeple is set round about with waxe candles
burning. I went to the top of this steeple, which hath
thirty seven ascents, whereof each hath foureteene lesse
ascents, by which the going up is as easie, as if a man
walked on plaine ground, at the contriving whereof I
much wondered. In the lodge of this steeple, the foure
brasen Images of Pallas, Apollo, Mercury, and of Peace,
and above them, the figure of Venice, with the Dominion
by sea and land, and the Image of Venus the Goddesse
of Cyprus, and of Jupiter the King of Candia, present
themselves, and neere the great gate the Images of the
blessed Virgin and of Saint John Baptist, are highly
valued.
Right over against the Dukes Pallace, in the foresaid Tc Library.
second market place of the pallace, is the library, whose
building is remarkable, and the architecture of the corner
next the market place of the Bakers, is held by great
Artists a rare worke, and divers carved Images of Heathen

Two greate
pillars.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Gods, and Goddesses in the old habit, are no lesse praised,
as done by the hands of most skilfull workemen. On
the inside, the arched roofes curiously painted, and the
little study of ivory, with pillars of Allablaster, and rare
stones, and carved Images (in which an old breviary of
written hand, and much esteemed, is kept) are things
very remarkeable. The inner chamber is called the study ;
in which many statuaes and halle statuaes, twelve heads
of Emperors, and other things given to the State by
Cardinall Dominicke Grimani, are esteemed precious by
all antiquaries. And in this Library are laid up the
Bookes, which the Patriarke and Cardinall Bessarione gave
to Saint Marke (that is to the State) by his last will, and
the most rare books brought from Constantinople at the
taking thereof, and otherwise gathered from all parts of
Greece. Out of this Library is a passage, to the chambers
of the Procurators of Saint Marke: before you enter
them most faire statuaes, and on the inside rare pictures,
draw your eies to them.
Not farre from thence are two pillars (the third whereof
in taking them out of the ship, fell into the sea, and could
never be recovered) and they be of huge bignesse; for
the erecting whereof, as a most difficult thing, great
rewards were given to a Lumbard, and immunity was
given to him by priviledge, for all that should play at
dice under them. Since it is accustomed, that all con-
demned men are executed betweene these pillars, which
of old were put to death neere the Church of Saint John
Bragola, and upon one of these pillars stands the brasen
statua of Saint Marke, under the forme of a Lyon, and
upon the other stands the marble statua of Saint Theodor.
The statua of Saint George beares a shield, in token that
Venice rather defends it selfe, then offends others, since
the right hand carries a defensive weapon.
Behind the Library is the Mint house (vulgarly called
La zecca, whereupon I thinke the gold coyne of the'
Venetians is called Zecchino) in which house it is remarke-
able, that there is no wood in any part thereof, but for"
i88

COMMENTS UPON VENICE

feare of fire it is all built with stone, bricke, and barres
of iron. Here the great statuaes of Gyants, lifting up
their massie clubs, as it were forbidding the entrance ; and
in the court yard the statua of Apollo, holding wedges
of gold in his hand, to shew that gold is made to grow
in the bowels of the earth by the vertue of the sunne,
are things remarkeable.
From hence on the left hand is the market place, which
I said to be the first of the Pallace, seated between the
channel & the Pallace. And from hence on the right hand
is the fish market, in which (as likewise in that of Rialto)
store of good fish is to bee bought twice in the day.
The market place in which the said Bel-frey and Library
are built, is also adorned with the stately Pallace of the
Duke, all covered with Marble, and most sumptuous in
the carved Images and pictures, and in the pillers of the
Arched walke on the outside. The first staires towards
the second market place of the Pallace, and over against
the said Library, are very stately, and are vulgarly called
Scala de' Giganti, that is the staires of the Giants, so
called of two huge Marble statuaes of Mars and Neptune,
which the common people call Giants. But the Pallace
hath many other staires, whereby men ascend thereunto.
Opposite to the aforesaid statuaes, are two other of Adam
and Eve, but not so great as they: and not farre from
thence is a stone guilded, with an inscription which the
Senate placed there, in memory of the French King Henry
the third, whom they entertained, passing that way from
Poland into France. On the left hand is the Chappell
of Saint Nicholas, which is the Dukes private Chappell.
Hence you ascend into a large Hall (as they call it) or
a large Gallery ; in the middest whereof the golden staires
shine with gold, and two marble Images and rare pictures.
On the left hand of the said staires, is the passage to that
part of the Pallace, which is assigned to the Duke for
his dwelling, and in the first chamber, called the Dukes
Armes, Sala del scudo, the pictures of Christs resurrection,
and another of him crucified, are much praised, though
89

AoD.
I594-

[I. ii. 87. ]

The Pallace
of the Duke.

The Prisom.

The market
place f
Rialta.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

it hath many other rare pictures. When you have
ascended the golden staires, you shall see foure rare
pictures. From thence the way on the left hand leads
to the Chancery, where many chambers are adjoyning,
proper to divers Councels of State, all adorned with graven
Images and pictures of the best; namely, the chambers
of the Councell rich in the painting of the arched roofe.
Tha.t of the Pregadi, having genera.ll rare painting and
carving. That called La secreta, in which the secret
writings of the State is laied up. The Chappell of the
Colledge, where the Duke and the Senators daily heare
Masse, and it appeares by an inscription, that the
Antiquities were of old laid up there, among the pictures
whereof, that of Christs resurrection, and the Map of
the Territory of Venice, are much praised. That of the
Councell of Term, in which the picture of the Wise-men
offering gifts to Christ is much praised, (neere the same
are chambers, in which many rich Armors and rare
Monuments are laid up.) And that of the great Councell,
one hundred fifty foot in length, and seventy foure in
breadth, adorned round about with rare pictures, namely
on the side towards the foresaid second market place of
the Pallace, the History of Fredericke the Emperour, and
of Pope Alexander the third is cursorily painted. Towards
the foresaid first market place, lying betweene the Pallace
and the channel, the History of Constantinople, taken
by the Venetians and French, is painted; and the capitu-
lation of the voyage, made in the Church, and the rest
of the Saints in heaven, are reputed rare workes.
The prisons of old were under this Pallace of the Duke,
but lately a new house is stately built of the stone of
Istria, for that use neere the bridge Della Paglia.
The foure square market place of Rialto, is compassed
with publike houses, under the arches whereof, and in
the middle part lying open, the Merchants meet. And
there is also a peculiar place where the Gentlemen meet
before noone, as they meet in the place of Saint Marke
towards evening; and here to nourish acquaintance, they
I9O

COMMENTS UPON VENICE

spend an houre in discourses, and because they use not
to make feasts one to another, they keepe this meeting
as strictly as Merchants, lest their frinship should decay.
The Gold-smiths shoppes lie thereby, and over against
them the shoppes of Jewellers, in which Art the Venetians
are excellent. There is the Pallace of a Gentleman, who
proving a Traytor, the State (for his reproch) turned the
same into a shambles, and some upper chambers to places
of judgement. The fish market lies by this shambles,
a great length along the banke of the great channell, and
in the same shambles and fish market, as also in the like
of Saint Marke, great plenty of victuals, especially of
fish, i.s daily to be sold. A publike Pallace stately built
lieth neere the bridge of Rialto.
This bridge in the judgement of the Venetians, deserves [I. ii. 88.]
to be reputed the eighth miracle of the world. The old TZe Bri,tge
being pulled downe, this new bridge began to bee built in
the yeere 1588, and was scarce finished in three yeeres, and
is said to have cost two hundred fifty thousand Duckets.
It is built of the stone of Istria, upon one arch over the
great channell, and the ascent to the toppe hath thirty
slxe staires on each side, and upon each side of these
staires, are twelve little shoppes covered with lead: not
to speake of the carved Images, of the blessed Virgin,
the Angell Gabriel, and the two protecting Saints of the
City, namely Saint Marke, and Saint Theodore.
Thereby is a Pallace called II Fontico de i Todeschi,
because the Dutch Merchants have it to their use.
The Armory built for all kinde of Armes & Munitions, T,e A,'rao,'.y.
vulgarly called 1' Arsenale, as it were the Tower of the
Senate, is compassed with walles being in circuit more
then two miles, where some foure hundred Artificers are
daily set on worke about naval provisions, and they receive
weekely for wages about one thousand two hundred
duckets. Within the same is a several place to make
cables, & within the circuit hereof and no where else in
the City, they build Ships and Gallies, and there bee
alwayes in the same about two hundred gallies ready for

ll Ghetto.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

service. To conclude, the State of Venice, being not
growne to full strength, did in a hundred daies space,
arme one hundred gallies against Emanuel Emperour of
the East, and no doubt their strength hath every day
growne greater to this time. In the said compasse of
the Armory, lies a great boat called I1 Bucentoro, because
it carries about the number of two hundred; which boat
hath upon it a kinde of chamber which useth to be richly
hung, and covered over, when in the same the Duke and
Senators be carried by water at some times of solemnity,
especially at the feast of the Ascention, when of an old
custome, they goe forth to espouse the sea, by the
ceremony of flinging a ring into the same, and to challenge
the command thereof, given theln by Pope Alexander the
third.
The Jewes have a place to dwell in severally, called
I1 Ghetto, where each family hath a little house, and all
have one court-yard common, so as they live as it were
in a Colledge, or Alines-house, and may not come forth
after the gates are locked at night, and in the day they
are bound to weare a yellow cap.
Though the City bee seated upon little and narrow
Ilands, in the middest of marshes and tides of the sea;
yet hath it gardens in great number, and abounding with
rare herbes, plants, and fruits, and water conduits, which
with the carved Images and pictures, (out of the Gentle-
mens curtesie) may bee seene by any curious stranger.
Publike The publike Libraries of speciall note are these: Di S
a,,,pri,ate Giovanni & Paolo: di San' Francesco: di San' Stefano:
Libraries. di San' Georgio Maggiore: and di Sant' Antonio. Also
private Libraries may be found out by those that be
curious, and will bee after the same manner easily shewed
them, and are indeede most worthy to bee sought out
for the rarenesse of many instruments, pictures, carved
Images, Antiquities, and like rare things: For the
Venetians being most sparing in diet and apparell, doe
exercise their magnificence in these and the like delights,
and these precious Monuments, they will with great

thousand
families
in genice.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Dandoli, neere the bridge Della Paglia. The Pallace
neere Saint Francis Church, which the Senate bought, and
use to assigne it to the dwelling of the Popes Nuncio.
That of the Dutchesse of Florence, built upon the channell
of the Dukes Pallace. That of the Vetturi, neere the
market place of Saint Mary. That of the Patriarke
Grimani, neere the Malipieri. That of the family
Georgii, neere the same. That of Francis Priuli. That
of Lodwick Gerogii. That of the Capelli. That of
Peter Giustiniani. That of those of Pesaro, neere the
Church of St. Benedict. That of the Loredani neere
Saint Stephens Church. That of Zeni. That of
Contarini. That of Silvester Valierii, neere the Church
of Saint Job. That of the Cornari, neere Saint Pauls
Church. That of James Foscarini, neere the Church
Carmeni. That of the Michaeli, neere Saint Lewis
Church. That of Lewis Theophili, neere the Church
Della Misericordia. The chiefe Pallaces upon the channell
are these. That of the Loredani. That of the Grimani,
neere Saint Lucia. That of the Delphini. That of the
Cornari, neere Saint Maurice Church, and that of the
Fascorini, an old building but having the best prospect
of all the rest. In which the Venetians entertained the
French King Henry the third. To conclude, there be
two rich Pallaces in the Iland Giudecca, one of the
Dandoli, the other of the Vendramini.
In this famous City are twenty thousand families, and
three thousand of the Gentlemen, and no age hath beene
so barren, which hath not yeelded worthy men for Martial1
and civill government and learning. Of this City have
beene three Popes, Gregory the twelfth, Eugenius the
fourth, and Paul the second, and many Cardinalls of which
these are the chiefe: Peter Morosini, Marke Landi,
Anthony Corari, John Amideus, and in our age John
Baptist Zeni, and Dominick Germani. Also Peter
Bembus was a Venetian, whom Pope Paul the third made
Cardinal1. Heere was borne Pantalean Justinianus, Patri-
arke of Constantinople when the French ruled there.

194

COMMENTS UPON VENICE

And Venice hath yeelded many most learned men, Andrew
Dandoli, Duke Francis Barbarigi, Andrew Morosini, who
wrote the History of his time in Heroique Verse. And
many famous Civill Lawyers, Lodwicke Foscarini, and
Jerom Donati. And many rare engravers, and painters,
Titiano, Tenterotto, and Belino. And many Commanders
in the warre, John Bolari, Marino Gradinici, Dominick
Morosini, (the first provisors of Military affaires,) Andrew
Morosini, and Simon Dandoli, and many more famous
in all kindes of vertue, to the chiefe whereof I have said,
that the Senate erected many Statuaes and Monuments.
Give me leave to adde this of the family Morosini, namely,
that among the most famous men, whose pictures were
in the chamber of publike meeting, before it was burnt;
there were the pictures of Barbaro and Marco, and
Antonio, Morosini. And that the same family hath given
three Dukes, Dominico, Marino, and Michaele ; and three
Patriarkes, and twelve Procurators of Saint Marke, (which
number few families have attained, onely that of the
Contarini, that of the Justiniani, and that of the Grimani,
have a little passed it). And that my selfe being at
Venice, found there eighty Gentlemen of this name. Let
the Reader pardon this observation, which I make for
the Consonancy of that name with my owne, onely
differing in the placing of a vowell, for more gentle pro-
nuntiation, which the Italian speech affecteth ; yet these
Gentlemen being of one family, write their names
somewhat diversly, some writing in their owne tongue
Morosini, others Moresini, and in the Latin tongue,
Morocenus, and Maurocenus.
Of the hiring of chambers, and the manner of diet
in Venice, I have spoken jointly with that of Paduoa,
in the discription of that City, onely I will adde, that this
City aboundeth with good fish, which are twice each day
to be sold in two markets of Saint Marke & Rialto, &
that it spendeth weekly five hundred Oxen, & two hundred
& fifty Calves, besides great numbers of young Goates,
Hens, and many kinds of birds, besides that it aboundeth

I95

I594-
Many famous
mcn.

[I. ii. 90.]

dnno. 594-

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

with sea birds, whereof the Venetian writers make two
hundred kinds, and likewise aboundeth with savoury fruits,
and many salted and dried dainties, and with all manner
of victuals, in such sort as they impart them to other
Cities. I will also adde that here is great concourse of
all nations, as well for the pleasure the City yeeldeth,
as for the free conversation ; and especially for the com-
modity of trafficke. That in no place is to be found in
one market place such variety of apparell, languages, and
manners. That in the publike Innes a chamber may be
hired for foure sols a day; but for the cheapenes and
good dressing of meat, most men use to hire private
chambers, and dresse their owne meat. That in the Dutch
Inne each man paies two lires a meale. That no stranger
may lie in the City more then a night, without leave of
the Magistrates appointed for that purpose; but the next
day telling them some pretended causes of your comming
to the Towne, they will easily grant you leave to stay
longer, and after that you shall be no more troubled,
how long soever you stay, onely your Host after certaine
dales giveth them account of you. To conclude this
most noble City, as well for the situation, freeing them
from enemies, as for the freedome of the Common-wealth,
preserved from the first founding, and for the freedome
which the Citizens and very strangers have, to injoy their
goods, and dispose of them, and for manifold other causes,
is worthily called in Latine Venetia, as it were Veni etiam,
that is, come againe.
From Venice to Farraria are eighty five miles by water
and land : and upon the third of February (after the new
stile) and in the yeere 594- (as the Italians begin the
yeere the first of January) and upon Wednesday in the
evening, my selfe with two Dutchmen, my consorts in
this journey, went into the Barke, which weekely passeth
betwixt Venice and Ferrara. The same night we passed
twenty five miles upon the marshes, within the sea banke,
to Chioza or Chioggia, or (to speake vulgarly, the better
to be understood in asking the way) a Chioza, the first
i96

FROM VENICE TO FERRARA

village on firme land, or rather seated in an Iland, where
the Ditch Clodia maketh a Haven. The next morning
in the same Barke we entred the River, and passed fifteene
miles to the Village Lorea, and after dinner ten miles
in the territory of Venice, and eight miles in the Duke-
dome of Ferraria to Popaci, and upon Friday in the
morning twenty two miles to Francoline, where we paid
for our passage from Venice thither, each man three lires
and a halfe. By the way on land upon both side the
River, we passed a pleasant plaine, and fields of come
divided by furrowes, in which furrowes Elmes were
planted, and upon them Vines grew up to the tops. Such
is the manuring of Lombardy, or the loward part of Italy
towards the West, where the Vines growing high, yeeld
not so rich wines, as in the other parts of Italy upon
mountaines and hils, upon the sides whereof the Vines
supported with short stakes, and growing not high, yeeld
much richer wines. By this way our Barke staied many
times in Villages, where we had time to eat, or to provide
victuals to be carried with us; and we had an Ingistar,
or measure of wine, something greater then our pint, for
three sols of Venice: we boug.ht bread after the weight,
for they have loaves of all prices, in which a stranger
cannot be deceived. It is the fashion to see the meat in
the kitchin, and to agree of the price before you eate it,
which if you doe not, you shall be subject to the Hosts
insatiable avarice, who take pleasure to deceive strangers.
And the price of the meats you may understand, by the
Italians, whom you shall see buy of the same. And if
the deerenesse displease you, you may carry drie figs and
raisons, and dine with them, the price of bread and wine
being certaine ; but you must sup at your Hosts Ordinary,
if you will have a bed. I said that we left our Barke at
Francoline, where we might have hired a coach to Ferraria,
for which we three should have paied twenty two bolinei,
but the way being pleasant to walke, we chose rather to
goe these five miles on foot.
Ferraria is a very strong City of Flaminia, and neere

197

The growth
af Vines.

[I. ii. 9.]

The PrinceJ
of gste.

The City of
Ferrara.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the City, the River Po dividing it selfe, hath made a long
and broad Iland, which now is growne to firme land.
It was compassed with walles by the Exarches of the
Easterne Emperors, Lords thereof, and after it was subject
to the Bishops of Ravenna ; then it came into the hands
of the Princes of the family of Este, the lawfull heires
whereof possessed it to the yeer 394, when it passed
to the line of Bastards. These Princes of Este were at
first Marquesses, and afterwards were created Dukes, and
Hercules of Este was the third Duke, who lived about
the yeere x55o. At this day the family of Este being
extinct, the Bishop of Rome hath invaded this Dukedome.
The City seated in a plaine, is compassed with a fenny
banke, and is of a triangular forme, the three corners being
towards the North, West and South. On the South side
the river Po did runne of old, but it hath now left his
bed, which is dried up to firme land. But the lesse branch
thereof runneth from Francoline to Chioza, where it fals
into the sea, the greater making many lakes at Comatio,
yeelds the Duke much profit by the fishing of eeles. In
the heart of the City is a large market place, and joyning
thereunto a little Iland, in which the father of Hercules
of Este built a stately Pallace, called Belveder, and in
the market place before the doore of the Pallace, there
is a statua sitting in a chaire, erected to Duke Burso, and
another of a horse-man, and of brasse erected to Duke
Nicholas. The streets are broad, and very dirty in winter,
and no lesse subject to dust in summer. The houses are
built of free-stone, but according to the building of Italy,
are almost flat upon the top, so as that upper roofe hath
neither chambers nor windowes. The houses are not built
one neere the other, but divided with most pleasant
gardens, and dispersed.
On the North side of the City without the walles, the
Duke hath a large Parke for hunting, and to keepe therein
many strange beasts. There be two stately Pallaces
besides the Dukes; one of the Bentivoli, the other of
Cesar, Nephew to Duke Alfonso, who being eighty yeeres
x98

[I. ii. 9z.]

8avcnoroll.

Mal'
llbergo.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Ducumque curas cecinit, atque prelia,
Vates corona dignus unus triplici,
Cui trina constant, que fuere vatibus,
Graiis, Latinis, vixque Hetruscis singula.
Here Ariosto lies, whose pen still feasts,
The Civill eares on stage with comick jeasts,
Whose Sayters scourg'd the foule sins of his time;
Who sung the frantick worthy, in sweet ryme:
Great Dukes, fierce battels, and their pensive care.
Thus hath one Poet, three crownes to his share;
Greeke Poets, Latines, Tuscanes, each scarce one
Of these attain'd, he hath all three alone.
In the Monastery Certosa there is a round pinacle, the
Monument of Duke Borso. In the Church of Saint
Mary of the Angels, are laid up some trophies of victory
against the Venetians, which when a Citizen of Ferrara
shewed upon a time to a Venetian, in fashion of bragging,
he answered pleasantly and wittily: to my remembrance,
when you of Ferrara got this victory against us, wee tooke
the Countrey of Poleseno from you, and though we
were overcome yet we keepe that to this day. Jerom
Savenorolla a Frier was born in this City, who in a late
age was of great fame & authority among the Florentines,
and for some opinions of religion was burnt by the Pope.
Here I paied thirty bolinei for a meale, in the chiefe Inne,
where we were well used, when in baser Innes we had
paied more with vile usage.
From hence they reckon thirty foure miles to Bologna.
Wee went on foot three miles to the village La Torre
della fossa, and in the midst of the way, wee observed
the old bed of the River Po, which was now dried up.
From hence we hired a boat for foure bolinei and foure
quatrines, and passed in a broad ditch betweene high
reedes, to a place called MaP Albergo, that is, the ill
lodging, being nine miles; and we understood there, that
foure souldiers were drowned the day before in the said
ditch by their own folly, playing and tumbling in the
200

COMMENTS UPON BOLOGNA

AID.
I594.

boat. We had now passed seven miles in the State of
Bologno, and lodging here, each man paid for his supper
sixteene bolinei. The next morning a boat went from
hence to Bologna, but since they asked for each roans
passage twenty two bolinei, and that the day was faire
and the way very pleasant, we chose to goe on foot these
eighteene miles to Bologna. In the mid-way we came
to a Countrey Inne, where they demanding excessive Entertainc-
prices for meat, we for sparing in the beginning of our ment at
long journey, and loth to be made a prey out of their an Inne.
opinion of our gluttony, tooke bread and wine of them
at the knowne price, and dined with some provisions we
had with us; namely, one pound of Raisons, for which
we had paid seven bolinei, a pound of figges at the same
price, and a pound of Almonds at the same price, bought
at Ferraria to this purpose. After this refection we went
the rest of our journey through pleasant fields, manured
after the Lumbard fashion, before discribed.
When we entred the gates of Bologna, the souldiers Bologna.
demanded a curtesie of us, which wee gladly gave them,
perceiving they would not search our portmanteaus, which
otherwise by their office they may do. This is a City
of Flaminia, of old subject to the Exarchate of Ravenna,
til the Eastern Emperors were cast out of Italy, by the
conspiring of the Popes with the Kings of Lombardy,
and so the Exarchate was united to that Kingdome, and
shortly after the Popes likewise conspiring with the French
King Charles the Great, against the Kings of Lombardy,
and dividing Italy betweene them, this City fell to the
Popes share, howsoever they did not then attaine the
possession thereof, or at least did not keepe it long: for
afterwards the City was subject to many tyrants, some-
times under the Vicounts of Milano, and at last invaded
by the Citizens thereof; namely the Family of Bentivoli,
under pretence to defend the common liberty, till the
Pope about the time of the French King Lewis the
twelfth, conspiring with him to invade Italy, did cast
out the Bentivoli, and by little and little reducing the
2OI

COMMENTS UPON BOLOGNA

I594-

with arched Cloysters towards the street, under which they
walke dry in the greatest raine. The Pallaces of Gentle-
men are built towards the street, stately on the inside,
but with little shew on the outside, and they all seeme
to have beene built of old. The windowes are not glased rtrin,lo,e of
(which the Venetians brag to be proper to their City, as oyledaer.
a thing to be wondered at) but they are covered with
paper, whereof part is oyled over. Towards the West-
side of the City, is a large market place twoforked, in
which is a faire conduit of water, with the Images of
Neptune, and divers Goddesses powring water out of
their mouthes and breasts, and all made of mettall. In
this market place is the Senate-house, vulgarly called T,e Senate
I1 palazo della signoria, on the one side whereof are the
Courts of judgement, on the other the lodgings of the
Governour. At the very entry is a statua of brasse,
erected to Pope Gregory the thirteenth, a Citizen of
Bologna, which appeares by an inscription in the Cathedrall
Church : and within the Pallace is a statua of white stone,
erected to Pope Paul the third, and another statua of a
Gyant. The staires of the Pallace are made winding,
and rising by little and little, give so easie an ascent, as
a horse may goe up without difficulty: (the like staires
be at Ferrara in the Dukes Pallace, and at Venice in the
steeple of Saint Marke, and at Torge a City of Germany.)
Within the Pallace is the statua of Julius the second,
Bishop (or rather the God Mars) of Rome, engraven
to his shoulders, with a leane and long face. Upon the
doore of the Pallace is written in golden letters, that the
Emperour Charles the fifth held his Court there, when
the Pope put the imperiall Crowne upon his head, in the
Church of Saint Petronius, which Church is of the old
Lombard building: and this Saint is the protecting Saint
of the City. Neere the stately Cathedrall Church of Saint
Peter, is a house called the mountaine of piety, where The
poore men may borrow money freely, bringing pawnes, raountaine
to avoid the oppression of the Jewes usury. Among Ctiety.
the Lombard buildings there is an old Tower, called

2o 3

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

d' Asinelli, built of bricke with foure hundred seventy
two staires, which they esteeme one of the highest in
Europe. From this Tower without the gates, all the
fields are full of Pallaces and Houses. At the gate of
Saint Francis, is a pinacle with this inscription. The
Sepulcher of Accursius, who wrote the glosse upon the
Law, Sonne to Francis Hus. In the territory of this
.4me,tici,ll City is a medicinall water, found in the yeere 375- very
water, famous throughout all Italy, of which is proverbially said ;
Chi beve I' Acqua della Porretta, O che lo spezza, o che lo
netta, that is, He that drinkes the water of Porretta,
either it bursts him, or els it cleanseth him. The strangers
students here, call the stately Pallace of Cardinall Coup:
[I. ii. 94-] the sinnes of the Dutch, as built by the Fines imposed
on them. We staid in this City two daies, and being
three consorts, hired a chamber each man for foure bolinei
the day, the Hostesse giving us linnen, and dressing our
meat, and we paid for an Eele by the pound five bolinei,
(for they sell fresh water fish by the pound) for a pike
the pound foure bolinei, for three apples two quatrines,
Charges at for a pound of raisons foure bolinei, for a pound of small
Bologna. nuts foure bolinei, for an ingestar of wine (a measure
somewhat bigger then the English pint) foure bolinei,
for a wax candle six boIinei. It was now the time of
Lent, and so we were forced to eat onely fish, as the
Italians did.
In the territory of Bologna, there is a place almost an
rorcelli. Iland, called Forcelli, which was an Iland of old, and
Historians witnesse, that the Triumviri, Augustus,
Antonius, and Lepidus, here divided the world betweene
them.
From Bologna the right way for Rome is directly to
Florence, which way I never passed, disposing (as I
thought) my journey more commodiously; yet for the
direction of other passengers, it will not be amisse to set
downe the way. From Bologna to Pianoro are eight
miles, to Lograno sixe, to Scaricalasino five, to Caurez
three, to Fiorenzuola twelve, to Scarperia ten, to the

204

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Pope Julius the second by terrour of his excommunications
extorted Ravenna and other Cities from the Venetians,
and casting out the Lords of other Cities, the Popes from
that time, being very skilfull to fish in troubled waters,
have gotten possession of all the territories, from the
confines of the State of Venice, to Ferraria, Bologna, and
along the Coast of the Adriaticke sea, to Ancona. It is
said that Ravenna stands not now in his old place, for at
this time it is some two miles distant from the Sea: but
the soyle thereof is most fruitfull in corne, and unfit to
yeeld wine, and it is rich in pastures. The houses are
built of bricke and flint stone, and are so old as they
Te City seeme ready to fall. This City having been often taken
often taken, by enemies, hath lost all the ornaments which it had,
from so many Exarches and Kings of Lombardy, and
from the Bishops thereof, who were so powerfull, as they
strove long time for primacy with the Bishops of Rome.
On the North-side of the City lies the sea, but distant
from the same, and without the wals is a wood of Pine
trees, and not farre thence lie the ruines of a very old
and most faire Church, Saint Mary the Round, whose
roofe was admirable, being of one stone, and in the same
[I. ii. 95-] Church was the rich sepulcher of the Lombard King
Theodoricus, which the souldiers pulled downe with the
Church, to get the mettals thereof. On the East-side
the sea lies some two Italian miles distant, where is the
The Haven. Haven for ships, so much spoken of in the Roman
Histories, where the navy of Rome did winter, yet is it
now neither convenient nor secure for ships; neither
indeed can any but very small boates come up to the
Towne. On the South-side without the golden gate (built
by the Emperour Claudius) lie the ruines of a stately
P'allace, built by the same King Theodoricus, and likewise
of the City Cesaria. In a Chappell of the Cathedrall
Church is a most rich Font, and they report that many
Kingly monuments were of old in this Church. In the
market place lies a vessell of Porphry, a Kingly monu-
ment, which the Citizens in the yeere x 564. brought from
o6

COMMENTS UPON RAVENNA ^.)-
xS94.
the foresaid sepulcher of King Theodoricus in the ruined
Church of Saint Mary, neere the gate on the North-side.
In the monastery of Saint Francis, is the sepulcher of the Tht Sepulchtr
Poet ]3antes, with these verses in Latin; afDante.
Exigua tumuli ]3antes hic sorte jacebas,
Squallenti nullis cognite pen situ.
At nunc marmoreo subnixus conderis Arcu,
Omnibus & cultu splendidiore nites.
Nimirum Bembus Musis incensus Hetruscis
Hoc tibi (quem inprimis he coluere) dedit.
In a poore Tombe Dantes thou didst lie here,
The place obscure made thee almost unknowne,
But now a marble chest thy bones doth beare,
And thou appearest fresh as flower new blowne.
Bembus with Tuscane Muses ravished,
Gave this to thee, whom they most cherished.
In the yeere 483. the sixth of the Kalends of June,
Bernar : Bembus the Praetor, laid this at his owne charge :
The strength, merit, and crowne of the Friars minorite
covents. S.V.F. and these verses were added in Latin;
Jura Monarchke, superos, Phlegetonta, lacusque
Lustrando cecini voluerunt rata quousque.
Sed quia pars cessit melioribus hospita castris,
Actoremque suum petiit faelicior Astris.
Hic claudor Dantes, patriis extorris ab oris,
Qpem genuit parui Fiorentia Mater Amoris.
The Monarchies, Gods, Lakes, and Phlegeton,
I searcht and sung, while my Fates did permit;
But since my better part to heaven is gone,
And with his Maker mongst the starres doth sit,
I Dantes a poore banishd man lie here,
Whom Florence Mother of sweet Love did beare.
In the Church of Saint Vitalis the pavement is of
marble, and the wals all covered with precious stones of
many kinds, but unpolished as they were taken out of

COMMENTS UPON RIMINI

goe away on foote, or take another Post-horse there, for
no private man dare let him a horse, which makes
passengers loth to bier post-horses of returne, though
many times they may be had at good rate, rather then
he will returne emptie with them ; yet if a man will walke
a mile or two, he may easily bier a horse in other Townes,
which are frequent in Italy. And let no man marvel,
that these Princes favour the Post-masters and Inkeepers
to the prejudice of strangers, because in that respect they
extort great rents from them. By the way, in the Village
Bel' Aria, each of us paid two bolinei for passage of a
River. The Brooke Rubico, now called Pissatello, by
this way to Rimini, did runne from the West into the
Adriatique sea, and there of old was a Marble pillar, with
this inscription in Latin ; Here stay, leave thy Banner,
lay down thy Armes, and leade not thy Army with their
Colours beyond this Brooke Rubico; therefore if any
shall goe against the rule of this commaund, let him be
judged enemie to the people of Rome, &c. And here-
upon it was, that Julius Cesar returning out of France,
and first stopping here, and then after he had seene some
prodigious signes, passing over this Brooke with his Army,
uttered words in Lattin to this effect ; Let us goe whither
the prodigies of the Gods, and the sinnes of our enemies
call us. The Die is cast.
In the Market-place of Rimini is a monument of the
same Cesar yet remaining, where words in the Latin
tongue are graven in a stone to this effect; The Consuls
of Rimini did repaire this pulpit, decaied with age, in
the moneths of November and December, in the yeere
1555. Under that is written; Caius Cesar Dictator
having passed Rubico, here in the Market place of Rimini
spake to his fellow souldiers, beginning the civill warre.
In the same Market-place of Rimini is a pleasant Conduit
of water. The Citie hath no beautie, and lyeth in length
from the East to the West. On the West-side is a bridge
built by the Emperour Augustus, which they hold to
be very faire. Towards the East is a Triumphall Arke,
M. I 209 O

The Brooke
Rubico.

Rimini.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the South-side is the third Mountaine, upon which is
the Castle called Capo d Monte, built in the same place
where the Temple of Venus stoode; and upon this side
the Citie is narrow, there being no houses built upon the
Mountaine, but onely in the valey upon the sea. The
The Citie in Pope hath souldiers in this Castle, and thereby keepes
subjextion to the Citie in subjection: for the Citizens long defended
the Pope. their liberty, and howsoever they were subject to the Pope,
yet secretly chose their Magistrates every yeere, to the
yeere I532 ; at which time Pope Clement the seventh
built this Castle against the Turkish Pirates, but besides
he used it to bring the Citizens in absolute subjection.
The streetes are narrow, and the wayes ill paved with
Flint. The Haven is of a triangular forme, and is now
very pleasant, as of old it was of great fame for a most
secure Port, yet it seemed not to me capable of many
or great ships. Perhaps it was of old fit to receive the
Roman Navie of Gallies; but since they have neglected
to preserve it. Trajane the Emperour repaired this
Haven, and adorned it with a stately triumphall Arke
of marble, which remaines to this day. About this Haven
there is pleasant walking, and the place where the
La Loggia. Marchants meete, called la Loggia, lying upon the sea,
is as sweete an open roome, as ever I saw; but narrow,
and nothing answerable for stately building to the
Exchange of London. It is beautified with sweete
pictures, among which one of an Angell, which lookes
right upon you, on which side soever you behold it, is
much esteemed. They have a proverb, one Peter in
Rome, one Tower in Cremona, and one Haven in Ancona
(for the excellency of them). Neere the gate of the Citie
(to my remembrance) on the East-side, is a very sweete
Fountaine, powring water out of many heads of stone.
At Ancona, according to the custome of passengers,
we agreed with a Vetturine, or letter of horses, that each
of us paying him fiftie five Poli, hee should finde us
horses, and horse-meate, and our owne diet to Rome;
and to this end his servant followed us on foote, after the

212

COMMENTS UPON LORETO

fashion of the Italians, who ride slowly, and these servants
are called Vetturini, or Vetturali. Now we were to crosse
the bredth of Italy, from the Adriatique to the Tyrrhene
Sea. The first day in the Morning, we rode fifteene miles
to a little Citie, called Madonna di Loretto, through
fruitfull Mountaines, and passing an high Promontary.
By the way was an Altar, with this inscription in Latin;
O passenger, goe on merily, &c. Gregorie the thirteenth
hath well paved the rest of the way. The like inscription
is in the ascent of the Mountaine, upon which the little
Citie Loreto stands: for this way (in a fruitfull Countrey
of corne, and a dirty soile) was paved at the charge of the
said Pope.
A certaine chamber hath given beginning to this Citie
and the Church thereof, then which nothing is esteemed
more holy among the Papists; and because many gifts
of great price use to be given by vow to our Lady of this
Church, the City is well fortified against Pirats, who did
once spoile the same, and were like againe to be invited
by the hope of rich spoiles to the like attempt, if the
Towne lay unfortified. It is of little circuit, and lieth in
length from East to the West, so narrow ; as it hath
almost but one streete in the bredth, and all the houses
of this streete are Innes, or Shops of them that sell Beades
to number prayers. On the East side, after a steepe
descent of a Mountaine, lies a valley of two miles, and
beyond that the sea. On the North side, towards Ancona,
though the sea be very farre distant, yet from this Citie,
seated upon a high Mountaine, it may easily be seene.
Upon the dores of this Church, famous for mens super-
stitious worship, these verses are written:
Illotus timeat quicunque intrara, Sacellum,
In terris nullum sanctius orbis habet.
Enter not here unwasht of any spot,
For a more holy Church the world hath not.
At the Church dore is a statua of brasse erected to
Pope Gregorie the thirteenth. As I walked about the
213

594-
[I. ii. 98.]

Loreto.

The Church
of Loreto.

hobo
1594-.
I priest
catn K out
diell.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

keleeve as he
list.
Woe to him
that keleeves.
Woe to him
that keleeves.

Church, behold in a darke Chappell a Priest, by his
Exorcismes casting a divell out of a poore woman : Good
Lord what fencing and truly conjuring words he used!
How much more skilfull was he in the divels names?
then any ambitious Roman ever was in the names of his
Citizens, whom he courted for their voices. If he had
eaten a bushell of salt in hell ; If he had been an inhabitant
thereof, surely this Art could never have been more
familiar to him. He often spake to the ignorant woman
in the Latin tongue, but nothing lesse then in Tullies
phrase, and at last the poore wretch, either hired to deceive
the people, or (if that be more probable) drawne by
familiar practice with the Priest, or at least affrighted
with his strange language and cries, confessed her selfe
dispossessed by his exorcisme. In the body of the
Church, a Table of written hand, in the Greeke, Latin,
and many other tongues, was fastened to a Piller, setting
downe at large the wonderfull historie of the Chamber
in the midst of the Church, which I confesse was lesse
curiously observed by me, abhorring from that super-
stition, & hastening from thence as much as I might; yet
give me leave to set down the sum thereof out of the
itinerary of Villamont a French Gentleman. This
Let the Reader Chamber or Chappell (saith he) is the very house, in
which the Q.geene Virgin of Nazaret was borne, brought
up, and saluted by the Angell, foretelling her of Christs
birth, and in which Christ was conceived, and in which
the Virgin dwelt after Christs ascention, accompanied with
the holy Apostles, especially with Saint John by Christs
commaund, which the Apostles after the Virgins death,
for the great mysteries done here, turned into a Chappell,
consecrated to the sacrificing of Christ, and dedicated the
same, and with their owne hands, made the great Crosse
of wood, now set in the window of the Chappell, and in
which Saint Luke made with his hand the picture and
Image now set above it. Let mee adde: This Chappell
from a House became a Chamber, and of a Chamber was
made a Chappell, and it is built of bricke, and is thirtie

214

COMMENTS UPON LORETO ,.t).
1594-
upon the recovery of his health. Villamont adds that this Beoll ow
Chapel is compassed with a wal of white Marble, curiously oly tee
engraven, but that this wall could never by any art bee wa#es of
bricke are,
fastned to the Chappell, and that the Chappell is also wic cannot
compassed with twentie pillars, bearing the Images of abide the
ten Prophets, and the ten Sybills. Hee adds, that many impu,e touc
miracles are heere done, and first gives instance in the 0fMarb/e.
person of the Marques of Baden, in the yeere x584.
Secondly he sets it downe for a Maxime, and proves it [I. il. oo.]
by an example, that no man ever tooke any thing out of
this Church, without great mischiefe befalling him; and
that the robbers thereof are compelled to restore, as it
were by infernall furies. Let me say truly (alwaies
reserving due reverence to the blessed Virgin, to whom
the Scriptures teach such divine worship to be most
unpleasing, as the Papists yeeld her), I say let me with
due reverence tell a truth. My selfe and two Dutch-men
my consorts, abhorring from this superstition, by leave
entred the inner Chappell, where we did see the Virgins
picture, adorned with pretious Jewels, and the place (to
increase religious horror) being darke, yet the Jewels
shined by the light of wax candles. When we were
entred, the Priest courteously left us, to give us space
for our devotion : but when we came forth (as the Italians
proverbially speake of the Priests avarice, Every Psalme
ends in, Glory be, &c. as if they should say, All religion
to end in profit) it was necessarie for us to cast almes
into an iron chest behind the Altar, covered with an iron
grate. Therefore my consorts, of purpose to delight the Ca'efu#
Priests eares with the sound of money, as with musicke, Dutchmen.
did cast into that chest many brasse quatrines, but of
small value, and my selfe being last, when my turne was
to give alines, did in stead thereof, gather some tenne
quatrines of theirs, which lay scattered upon the grate,
and got that cleare gaine by that Idoll. God forbid I
should bragge of any contempt to Religion; but since
it appeares, that such worship is unpleasing to God: and
because Papists will have all their miracles beleeved, I
217

COMMENTS UPON LORETO A.).
594-
banished men, vulgarly called Banditi, who were banished
for murthers, and such like crimes, and now had their
pardon, upon condition, that for some yeeres they should Banditi
serve the Emperour in Hungarie against the Turks. ardoned.
These men abhorred in all Italy, yet (no doubt) at this
time very devout, did make stifle vows, to expiat their
sinnes, and to have happie returne out of Hungarie, yet
they held their hands from giving any large alines. My
selfe and my consorts were all this day fasting, for it had
been an unperdonable sinne to have demaunded meate
in our Inne, before wee had been in the Church, and
would have given open occasion to suspect our Religion.
At last when wee returned to the Inne, our Vetturine
gave us our dinner.
The same day after a slight dinner we rode foureteene
miles, upon a causey paved with stone, and winding about [I. ii. o.]
a mountaine, then through fields abounding with Olive
trees, but having no vines, and we came to the City
Macerata, where the Popes Legate lies, an.d keepes his
chancery for this Marca of Ancona. Part of this Province
yeelds rich wine, whereof they have onely white wine in
the Innes. The second day m the morning, we rode
twenty two miles to Polverina, through a pleasant way,
and fruitfull fields, yeelding corne and olives. And by
the way neere the City Tollentino, were the confines of
the Marca of Ancona, and of the Dukedome of Spoleto.
After dinner we rode ten miles to the Castle Serevallo,
through stony and barren mountaines. The third day in
the morning we rode sixteene miles to Fuligni, through
most stony and barren mountaines, which are called Thelpennine
Apennine, and divide the length of Italy, and through mountain,.
a large plaine planted with olive trees, and compassed
about with mountaines. This City was built upon the
ruines of the City Forum Flaminlum.
After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Spoleto,
through a firtile plaine, but stony, yeelding together in
the same field, vines, corne, Almond and Olive trees, and
at the end of the plaine this City is seated, partly in a

COMMENTS UPON NARNI

things,) and that this Fen endeth in a Lake, of old called
Velinus, now vulgarly called Lago di pie di luco, and
that betweene the running out of the waters, there is a
Fountaine of Neptune, (which Pliny hath described) and
that this Lake is the Navell or midst of Italy; and lastly, Te Na,dl f
that the water falling into the Lake (compassed with Italy.
mountaines) by steepe discents, maketh noises like the
groanes, yellings, and sighes of infernall spirits. From
whence, and by other arguments, he seemes to prove
plainely, that the verses of Virgill in the seventh Booke
of his -Eneados, are meant of this place, and that others
are deceived, who thinke them meant by Tenaso in Apulia,
especially since the vallies Ansancti are in this place,
vulgarly called Nesanto, for Ansanto, which signifies on
all sides holy, because they are fertile. The verses of
Virgil are these ;
Est locus Italia in medio, sub montibus altis,
Nobilis, & fama multis memoratur in oris,
Ansancti valles, &c.
Hic specus horrendum, & savi spiracula Ditis,
Monstrantur, &c. [I. ii. o,.]
Italies Center hath great Mounts beneath
A noble place, which is farre knowne by fame,
The Ansancti valleyes, &c.
A dreadfull hole, whereat fierce Dis doth breath,
Here may be seene, &c.
After dinner, we rode twelve miles to a little Towne,
lying beyond the River Tyber, namely, eight miles to
the Castle Otricoli, through woody Mountaines, and
Valleyes bearing Olive trees, and corne together with those
trees; and from thence to the side of the River Tyber Te
two miles in pasture fieldes. Here we passed to the
West side of this so famous River, where of old the
Emperour Augustus built a stately bridge; but now men
and horse passe in a ferry-boate, which is drawne over
with the force of mens hands, by a great cable fastned
a-crosse the River. And least the boate should be carried

22I

4 Ferryboat
drawne y a
cable.

Castel' nuovo,

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

away with the swift streame, a second cable is fastned
a-crosse the River by postes on each side higher then a
man; and they have a third short cable, to the one end
whereof the boate is fastened, and the other end hath
a strong wheele, which is put upon the second high cable,
upon which the boat slips forward, as it is drawne with
mens hands by the first low cable: for the bed of the
Tyber is broade in this place, and hath his spring not
far off, among the high Apenine Mountains, and falling
thence with great force, would carry away any boat rowed
with oares: But from thence the bed of the River grows
narrow, and is such at Rome, as it scarce deserves the
name of a Brooke, and nothing answeres the glorious
fame which Italians have given it, who alwaies extoll their
owne things to the skie. Hereupon it is necessarie, that
when any store of raine falls, or much snow suddenly
meltes, those waters falling from the Mountaines, should
overflow the fields, and the Citie of Rome it selfe, as they
have often done, with great danger of the Citie, the same
being not farre distant from this Ferrey, and these high
Mountaines, among which the river hath his spring. But
from Rome it runs in a narrow bed I z miles to Ostia
with a slow course, and there endeth in Lakes, the mouth
of the haven being so stopped, as the least Barks cannot
passe to & from the sea. Here beyond our expectation,
our Veturine alleaged, that he had agreed with us to pay
for our diet, not for our passages of Rivers ; by which
captious trick, each of us was forced to pay two Giulii
for our passage over the River. Of the foresaid twelve
miles to the little towne where of I spake, two miles
remained, which we rode, and there lodged that night.
The fifth day in the morning, wee rode seventeene miles
to Castel' nuovo, through woody Mountaines, and Valies
of come, in a way very dirty and slippery; and here our
Veturine tied to pay tot our diet, put a new tricke upon
us, saying, that he would not dine, but goe on to Rome,
yet if wee pleased to dine, hee would out of his duty
stay for us, otherwise being ready to finish the rest of

222

,4 wise
fashion.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

danger, into which if I should have fallen, I hoped to
escape with more ease and contentment, when I had beene
at the furthest of my journey. Therefore according to
the fashion, I agreed with a Vetturine at Rome, for forty
foure Giulii to give me a horse to Naples, and to pay for
my diet and horsemeat. I say it is the fashion, especially
in waies of danger and trouble to get meat, that passengers
should agree with their Vetturine for their diet; which
if they doe not, they shall be subject to the fraud of Hosts,
in such a journey, and hardly get so good meat as they,
who daily passing, are well acquainted in all places. And
in this tumultuary journey to Naples, it is most of all
necessary for strangers thus to agree with their Vetturine,
since the Hosts are great extorters from all men, and
especially from strangers; and it would be difficult for
strangers not knowing the fashion of that hasty journey
and of the Country, to provide for themselves. When
we went out of Rome, our consorts suddenly in a broad
street lighted from their horses, and gave them to the
Yetturines to hold, and so went themselves to the Holy
staires, vulgarly called Le scale sante, that they might
there pray for a happy journey; at which time my selfe
and my consorts slipped into the next Church, and going
in at one doore, and out at the other, escaped the
worshipping of those holy staires, and at fit time came
to take our horses with the rest. They say that these
staires were the same which Christ ascended in Pilates
house at Jerusalem, and that they were from thence
brought to Rome: and indeed at Jerusalem the place
of them lies void, so as I would in this much rather
beleeve the Romans, then in the transportation of the
Chamber at Loreto, which they would have done by the
.Angels, and that often and at unseasonable times, whereas
m so many voyages into Palestine it was not difficult
to bring these staires from thence. Yet they being of
marble, and very rich, I would faine know how such a
monument could be preserved, when Jerusalem was
destroied. And if they say they belonged to that house

224

FROM ROME TO NAPLES

of Pilate, which they shew at this day, ! dare be
bold to affirme that the magnificence of these staires
is nothing answerable to the poore building of that
house.
The twelfth of March we rode twelve miles to Marino, Marino.
a Castle belonging to the Roman Family of Colonna, and
we passed through a fruitfull plaine of come, having on
our right hand towards the South, the ruines of old Rome,
and the Castle Tusculo, where Cicero wrote his Tusculane
questions, not farre from Palestrina, of old called Preneste,
where Marius besieged by Scylla, killed himself, & we
might often see the Tyrrhene sea: and having upon our
left hand towards the North, an anticke conduit, made
of bricke, lying all the length of the way from Rome to
the Easterne mountaines, in which Marino is seated, and
from whence the water was so farre brought to Rome,
and upon the same side having a new conduit built by
Pope Sixtus the fifth, when the pipes of the other were
broken : but the same is much lower and lesse magnificent
then the other, and upon this hand we had mountaines
not farre distant. Marino was of old called Mariana villa,
and from this Castle the mountaines which by the way
we had on our left hand toward the North, crosse over
to the Tyrrhene sea, towards the South, shutting up the [I. ii. ioL.]
large plaine from Rome hither. And these mountaines
planted with vines, and having a sweet prospect into the
same plaine, are very pleasant. Whereupon there be
very many Pallaces of Roman Senators built upon these
mountaines, which lying high, of the fresh aire, vulgarly
this place is called La Frescada. Among these mountaines
in the Village Tivoli, the deceased Cardinall Hipolito
of Este, built a Pallace and a wonderfull garden, which
being ten mile distant from the City of Rome, the
passengers for the most part having seene Rome, did in
the Cardinals time, and yet many times doe passe that
way. For it resembles a terrestriall Paradice, by reason A terrestriall
of the fountaines, statuaes, caves, groves, fishponds, cages Paradice.
of birds, Nightingales flying loose in the groves, and
M. I 225 p

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the most pleasant prospect. In this Castle Marino we
made some stay, to expect some passengers which were
longer detained at Rome by their businesse.
And the Pope in this place gives sixty Horsemen
Musqueters to accompany the Carrier, vulgarly called I1
Procaccia, and to defend him from the spoyling of banished
Banded mc:: men, vulgarly called Banditi. And for this cause all
danger, passengers goe in this Carriers company, neither dare any
passe alone. For these banished men lurking upon the
confines of the Popes State and the Kingdome of Naples,
many times make excursions as farre as these moun-
taines, to doe robberies, and the weeke last past they had
killed many passengers, and had robbed the Carrier, who
doth not onely beare letters, but leades many Mules laded
with goods. The chiefe of these banished men was the
Nephew (so they call Church-mens bastards) of the
Cardinall Cajetano, who having eight thousand crownes
yeerely rent in these parts, was banished by the Pope,
and he understanding that a Roman Gentleman passed
with that Carrier, who. had great friends about the Pope,
and hoping to make his peace by taking him prisoner,
did for that cause assaile that Carrier and his guard, till
hearing that the Gentleman while they fought, had escaped
to the next City, he withdrew himselfe & his men into
the mountaines. This danger from banished men, makes
the journey to Naples very troublesome; and it is not
safe nor lawful for any man to leave the company of this
Carrier. So as the passengers rise before day, and take
horse, and so sitting all the day, yet ride not above twenty
miles, for the slow pace of the mules, and at noone they
have no rest, onely when they have the Inne in sight,
so as there is no danger of theeves, they are permitted
to gallop before, that they may eat a morsell, or rather
devoure it: for as soone as the mules are past, they must
to horse againe, every man not onely making hast for
his owne safety, but the souldiers forcing them to be gone,
who are more slow then the rest. To conclude the mules
going a very slow pace, it was very irkesome to the
226

FROM ROME TO NAPLES

594-

passengers to rise before day, and to follow them step
by step.
Having dined at Marino, and our full company being
come, we together with our guard of horse-men rode
eight miles to Velitri, through wooddy mountaines, I/elitri.
infamous for the robberies of banished men, and upon
our right hand towards the South and towards the
Tyrrhene sea, was a Lake vulgarly called Lago Nymweo ,
which the old Romans (delighted with doing difficult
things) used to fill with sea water, and therein to make
navall fights. One wood by which we passed was more
dangerous then the rest, where the Pope maintaines forty
foot to assist the Guard of horse, till they have passed
the same. The discent of the last mountaine neere
Velitri, was two miles long., yet pleasant by reason of the
multitude of Vines growing upon short stakes, which
use to yeeld the richest wine. Velitri is by writers called
Belitre, an old City of the Volsci, and famous for the
birth of the Emperour Augustus, and the dwelling.of
the Octavian Family. The second day in the mormng
we rode thirteene or foureteene miles to Sermoneta, an.d Serraoneta.
in the midst of the way our guard of horse left us, and
their trumpet asked of every man a gift in curtesie, which
we gladly gave, and there new horsemen meeting us,
tooke upon them our guard. After dinner we rode eight
miles to a little towne La casa nuova, and five miles to
an old City, which Livy calleth Privernum, yet other
Cosmographers write that the ruines thereof lie in a plaine
two miles off, whereas this is seated upon a mountaine,
yet growing to a City by the decay of the former, is
called Privernum, and vulgarly Piperno. We passed
through wooddy mountaines, full of Olive trees on the [I. ii. o5. ]
right hand, and a fruitfull plaine of corne, and many
Orchards of Orange trees, and like fruits, on the left hand.
And among the mountaines on the right hand, the most
remote was called Circello, of the famous Witch Circe,
and it is a Promontory hanging over the sea, where at
this day they shew the cup, in which Ulisses drunke the

x594.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

inchanted potion, and under the hollow caves of this
mountaine, the Turkish Pirates lurke in the summer
time, and rob the Christians. The last five miles of our
journey, all the passengers and souldiers were put before
the Carrier and his Mules; for then we turned out of
the plaine towards mountaines on the left hand, where
(as they said) the banished men had the weekebefore
assailed the Carrier. After we had dined, the horse-men
left us, and certaine foot did after guide us from one
City to another. The third day in the morning we had
Terracin. a guard of horse-men, and rode twelve miles to Terracina,
an old City, so called in the time of the Emperour
Tiberius, and we passed through a fertile plaine of corne
on the right hand towards the Sea, and stony hils full of
Olive trees on the left hand towards the Land, and many
vineyards, and ruines of houses neere the City. After
we had this morning rode two miles, we passed by an
old Monastery called la Badia della fossa nuova, where
they have a monument of Saint Thomas Aquinas, but
his body was carried to the City Tolouse in France, when
the French-men had the Kingdome of Naples. And after
we had rode ten miles our guard of horse left us, and
certaine foot meeting us, conducted us other 2 miles. In
this way the waters in many places at the foot of the hils
Brimston. did stinke of brimstone, but infinite Laurel trees on 11
sides refreshed our smel. Terracina in the flourishing
time of Rome was called Anxur, and it is seated upon
a mountaine, as most of the foresaid Cities are, and it
lieth upon the sea, which the land imbraceth like a halle
Moone, this Citie lying upon one horne thereof, and the
Citie Cajeta upon the other, of which Citie the Cardinall
had name, who did oppose himselfe to Luther. The
flouds of the sea make great noise, with striking upon
hollow caves of Rocks. A souldier came out of the
Tower of Torracina, and demaunded of every man five
baocci, which we paid, though it were onely due from
them, who had portmanteaues with locks. Neere this
City we did see the ruines of a stately Theater. After
228

FROM ROME TO NAPLES

dinner we rode ten miles to the City Fondi, through a
stony way, being part of the old way of Appius; and
upon the right hand we had a plaine towards the sea,
and upon the left hand rockey Mountaines towards the
land, where wee passed by the Citie Monticello. At the
mid-way, the Popes guard having left us, we came to
two old ruined walles, shutting up the way, and lying
from the Mountaine to the sea. This place called
Sportelle, devides the territories of the Pope and the $portdle.
King of Naples, and is kept. by a Garison of Spaniards.
I remember at our commmg backe, these Souldiers
demaunded of the passengers a gift in curtesie, and when
some refused it, they stopped their passage, and onely
troubled them in the searching of their carriage, under
pretence that they might carry some prohibited things.
These Souldiers did accompany us to the Citie Fondi.
I call the same and some other places by the name of
Citie, because they were Cities of old, though now they
be onely Villages, and have no other beautie, but the
ruines of age. This old Citie was sacked in the yeere
534 by Barbarossa a Turkish Pirate. It is seated in a
Plaine, having onely a meadow and a field overflowed
betweene it and the sea, and the houses are built of Flints
and such litle stones, but it had most pleasant Orchards, Pleasant
of Citrons, Oranges and Lemons. The Orange trees at Orchard.
one time have ripe and greene fruites and buds, and are
greene in winter, giving at that dead time a pleasant
remembrance of Sommer. By our Veturines sparing, our
diet was daily very short, and at Terracina we could not
so much as get wine; and here our supper was so. short,
as we judged our Vetturines good Phisitians, who per-
swade light suppers. The wines of Fondi and Cecubo
(for the mount Cecubo is not farre distant) are much
celebrated by the Roman Poets, namely, by Horace. The
fourth day in the morning, we rode ten miles to Mola,
vulgarly called Nola, upon a paved Causey, betweene stony
Mountaines, being part of the way of Appius, and through
great woods of Olive trees, having by the way many
229

COMMENTS UPON CAPUA

After we rode 8 miles to the most pleasant City Capua,
through a most sweet Plaine, called Laborina, because
it is laborious to the tiller, but it is wonderfull fruitfull,
and aboundeth with Olive trees, and vines planted upon
Elmes. Here we dined, not according to our covenant
at our Vetturines charge, but at our owne cost, and each
man had such meate as he chose, and that (as I thinke)
because the passengers being now out of danger, and in
a place abounding with all dainties, refused to. be dieted
at their Veturines pleasure, and chose rather to feast them-
selves as they list. And in deede we had excellent cheare,
delicate wine, most white pure bread, and among other
dainties, I remember wee had blacke Olives, which I had
never seene before, and they were of a most pleasant taste.
Here each of us paid two Giulii and a halle for our dinner.
This City is newly built, but if you goe out of the Gates
to Saint Maries Church towards Naples upon the South-
xvVest side of the Towne, there you shall see a Colossus,
and a Cave, and many Monuments of old Capua among
the Orchards: the delicacies of which Citie were of old
so famous, as we reade, that the Army of Hanibal grew
effeminate thereby. This new Citie hath a Castle upon
the North-East side, built upon the walles, wherein is
a Garrison of souldiers, which keepeth the Citie in
obedience, and the River Vulturnus runnes upon the same
side of the Citie, which they passe with a bridge of stone,
neere which there is an inscription, that Phillip King of
Spaine repaired the way, and built the bridge. The Citie
is of a little compasse, but strong, and it hath a faire
Senate-House, and a faire Church called 1' Annonciata,
with a faire Altar.
After dinner wee had no guard, neither were tied to
accompany the Carrier, but it was free for every man to
take his way and company, or to ride alone at his pleasure.
So from Capua we rode eight miles to Anversa, a new
Citie, otherwise called Adversa, and of old called Attella,
whence were the old Satyricall Comedies, which were full
of baudery, and were called Attellane. And betweene

I594.
C apua.

Excdlent
cheare.

I594-

Naples.

Rude
Citizens.

FVNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

this City and the Mountaine Vesuvius, now called Somma,
out of the way towards the land, and neere the Castle
Airola, is the Valley Caudine, where Hanibal put the
Romans, drawne into straites, disgracefully to passe under
a paire of gallowes, which were called the Caudine gallows,
wel knowne to all that have read Livy.
The same afternoone we rode further eight miles to
Naples. And all this way from Capua to Naples, is a
most fruitfull plaine of come, and vines growing high
upon Elme trees, according to the Tillage of Lombardy,
one and the same field yeelding come and wine, and wood
to burne, but the other wines of this Country growing
upon hills and mountaines, and all the other fruites, cannot
be worthily praised. We entered Naples on the East
side by the Gate of Capua, where the Vice-Roies use to
enter m pompe. And this Gate is stately built, and upon
this side, the suburbes are long and faire, and the streete
of Capua within the wals, is no lesse faire, in which is
the prison: and because we were attired like Frenchmen,
the prisoners scoffed at us, and to my great marvell, the
Citizens of good sort did not forbeare this barbarous
usage towards us.

The description of Naples, and the Territory.

A Rome farre distant.
B Capua.
D Torre di Greco, and the
Mountaine Somma.
E The Mountaine Pau-
silippo.
F The Iland Nisita, or
Nisa.
G The Iland Procida.
H S. Martino (as I thinke)
an Iland.
I Ischia, an Iland.
K Caprea, or Capre,
Iland.

L Palmosa an Iland, and
beyond it the Syrenes
Iland, famous by fables.
M The Citie Caieta.
N Circello, a famous Moun-
taine for the Witch
Circe.
P The Bay of Baie or
Pozzoli.
R Linternum, now called
Torre della Patria.
X The Promontory Miseno.
an Y The Cape of Minerva.
Z The old Citie Cuma.

COMMENTS UPON NAPLES

a The Gate of Capua.
b The Kings Gate.
c The Church S. Clara.
d The Castle of S.
Ermo.
eeeee Scattered houses.
f The Haven.
g I1 Molle.
h The Castle devouo.
k The Vice-Royes house.
1 The new Castle.

m The Lake d' Agnano, com-
passed with the Moun-
taine Astruno.
n Grotta del can'.
0 Solfataria.
p Pozzoli.
q Tripergola.
r The Lake of Avernus.
s Baie.
t Cento Camerelle.
v Piscina mirabile.

w The Elisian fields.

From the foresaid part on the East-side of the Citie,
where we entred by the (a) Gate of (a) Capua, without [I. ii.,o.]
the walls, towards the land. Eight miles from the Citie
lies (D) Torre di Greco, now called Torre d' ottavio,
where Pliny, writer of the Naturall history, and Admirall
of the Navey of Augustus, was neere the said Tower
choked with vapours, while too curiously he desired to
behold the burning of the Mountaine Vesuvius, now
called Somma. This Mountaine Somma is most high, Mountaine
and upon the top is dreadfull, where is a gulfe casting Vesuvius.
out flames, and while the windes inclosed, seeke to breake
out by naturall force, there have been heard horrible
noises and fearefull groanes. The rest of the Mountaine
aboundeth with vines, and Olives, and there g.rowes the
Greeke-wine, which Pliny calles Pompeies wine; and
of this wine they say, this place is called Torre di Greco.
The greatest burning of this Mountaine brake out in
the time of the Emperour Titus, the smoke whereof
made the Sunne darke, burnt up the next territories,
and consumed two Cities, Pompeia, and Herculea, and
the ashes thereof covered all the fields of that territory.
It brake out againe in the yeere I538 with great gaping
of the earth, and casting downe part of the Mountaine.
The Pallace there, taking the name of the next Village,
is called Pietra Biancha, that is white stone, which on

COMMENTS UPON NAPLES

King of Aragon, and Ferdinand his sonne, and Ferdinand
the second. And in this place also, the Monkes in like
sort sing, or rather houle rest to their soules. They shew
a Crucifix, which they say, did speake to Thomas Aquinas 4 marvelous
in this manner; Thomas, thou hast written well of me, Crucifix.
what reward doest thou aske? And that Thomas should
answere; No reward Lord but thy selfe onely. I have
heard, that Saint Bernard knowing the fraudes and
impostures of the Monkes, and not dissembling them,
when the Image of the blessed Virgin did in like sort
praise him, did with much more pietie and wisdome
answere out of S. Paul, I. Cor. 14 . Let women be
silent in the Church, for it is not permitted them to
speake.
Not farre thence are the publike schooles of the
University, which the Emperour Fredericke the second
founded there. In the most faire Church of the Monkes
of Saint Olivet, the Images of Ferdinand the first, and 4 most
Alphonso the second, are so lively engraven, and doe so beautifull
motumenL
artificially represent them, as well in the bed dying, as
upon their knees praying, with the mourning of the
by-standers, (the horror of Religion being increased with
lampes continually burning,) as my selfe by chance passing
by this Chappell, thought I had fallen among living
Princes, not dead Images; and perhaps I have seene a
more sumptuous monument, but a more beautifull did
I never see. In the little Church of the Hermitane [I. ii.
Friers, Saint John in Carbonara, is a monument of Robert
King of Naples, and of Joane the first his sister, of white
marble, being an Altar, which the Italians thinke the
most stately monument of Europe; but for my part I
dare not preferre it to some in Germany, nor to many
in England, nor to the monuments of the Turkish
Emperours. Many tables are hung up by vow in this
Church. There is a faire sepulcher of white marble
erected to N. Caraccioli Mar, hall of the Kingdome. I
omit the most faire Church of Saint Mary of the
Preachers, almost all of marble, and the Cathedrall

z35

COMMENTS UPON NAPLES

I594.

fortified by Alphonso the first, King of Aragon, as it is
numbred among the chiefe forts of Europe. The inward
gate is most faire all of marble, and it hath a little foure-
square hall, in which the Parliaments are yeerely held,
and the Viceroyes weekely sit in judgement. Neere this
hall is a faire tower, in which the Kingly ornaments are The Kingly
]aid up; namely, a scepter of gold, with great diamonds
upon the top, the sword with the haft and scabbard of
gold, adorned with precious stones; the Kings Crowne
shining with precious stones, a golden crosse, an huge
pot of gold set with precious stones, great Unicornes
hornes, and the chiefe kinds of precious stones.
Further towards the West, (yet so neere, as the garden
of the Pallace lies upon the ditch of this Castle), is the
(k) Viceroyes Palace, which hath a large and most sweet The Ficeroyes
garden, and delicate walk, paved with divers coloured Palace.
and engraven marbles. And in this garden are two
banquetting houses, whereof one is very stately built, and
hath a sweet fountaine close to the table continually
powring out water. Also there is a delicate cage of
birds, wrought about with thick wyer, and it is as big
as an ordinary stil-house, delicately shadowed round about,
wherein are many kinds of singing birds, aswell of Italy
as forraigne Countries.
A little further within the water, is the (h) Castle of 7"he Catle of
the egge, built upon a rock by the Normans, which Rocke the Egge.
is of an ovall forme, and gave the name to the Castle,
vulgarly called Castel' del' vuovo, which at this day is
ruinous; and some say it was the Pallace of Lucullus;
but it is certaine that the Normans built it, as they did
also another Castle which is old, and called the Capuan
Castle, of the adjoining Capuan-gate. Naples was of
old called Parthenope, of one of the Syrens there buried,
whom they write to have cast her selfe into the sea, for
griefe that by no flattery shee could detaine Ulisses with [I. ii. ,z.]
her. The Citizens of old Cuma built Naples, and lest
it should grow great to the prejudice of Cuma, they pulled
it down againe, till at last oppressed with a great plague,

594.

Naples of old
called
Parthenope.

G lasse
windowes rare
in Italy.

Four publike
houses.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

upon the warning of an oracle, they built it againe, and
changing the old name Parthenope, called it Naples, which
in Greeke signifies a new City. It is seated at the foot
of hils and mountaines, in length from the North-east
to the South-west, or rather seemeth to be triangular,
whereof two corners lie upon the sea, and that towards
the West is more narrow then the other, and the third
blunt corner lies towards the mountaines. Upon the
East-side there be pleasant suburbs, and upon the West-
side more large suburbs ; but upon the North-side without
the wals, there be onely some few (eeeee) scattered houses
built upon the sides of hils.
The houses of the City are foure roofes high, but the
tops lie almost plaine, so as they walke upon them in the
coole time of the night, or at lest in generall the tops are
not much erected, like other parts of Italy, and the
building is of free stone, and sheweth antiquity: but
the windowes are all covered with paper or linnen cloth;
for glasse windowes are most rare in Italy, and as it were
proper to Venice. It hath three faire broad and long
streetes, namely, La Toletano, la Capuana and la vicaria,
the rest are very narrow. There be eight gates towards
land, and as many towards sea, among which the Capuan
gate, since the Emperour Charles the fifth entered thereat,
is decked with monuments and statuaes. There be in
this City very many Pallaces, of Gentlemen, Barons, and
Princes; whereupon the City is vulgarly called Napoli
Gentile: Among these, two Pallaces are most stately,
one of the Duke of Grevina, which the King of Spaine
forbad to be finished ; the other of the Prince of Salerno.
There be foure publike houses, called Seggii, in which
the Princes and Gentlemen have yeerely meetings, and
there also is the daily meeting of the Merchants. Almost
every house hath his fountaine of most wholsome waters.
Neere the market place are many Innes, but poore and
base; for howsoever the City aboundeth with houses
where they give lodging and meat, yet it deserves no
praise for faire Innes of good entertainement. On all
238

The mountaine
Pausilio.

[I. ii. 3-]

/1 assage
under the
mountaine.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

aswell for the houses and villages built upon it, as for
the excellent fruits which it yeeldeth of all kinds. This
mountaine being hard to be ascended, extendeth it selfe
in good length from the sea towards the land, so as the
way would be very troublesome to Pozzoli, either ascend-
ing the mountaine, or compassing it, had they not found
a remedy to this inconvenience. Therefore the Progeni-
tors of these Citizens (which some attribute to Lucullus,
as they doe all magnificall things, and others to one
Bassus: but Leander the Cosmographer, a witnesse
without exception, attributes it to Coccius a Roman,)
I say, their Progenitors with wonderful Art and huge
expence, digged a passage under this mountaine, and so
made a plaine way to Pozzoli and those parts. This
way Strabo cals a Cave, and it is vulgarly called La grotta
di Napoli,. and serveth this famous City in stead of a
gate, yet is it a musket shot distant, and alwaies lies
open. And the foresaid Leander witnesseth, that it is
twelve foot broad, twenty foure high, and two hundred
long, to which length if you adde 5oo. foote more, which
at both ends was digged, but lies not covered as the rest,
but in open aire, this worke may well be said to be an
Italian mile long. My selfe observed, that part of the
passage under the mountaine, to bee nine hundred and
sixteene walking paces long, and nine broad, and the
hight I imagined to double the bredth, yet is it in some
places biger then in other. And for the bredth, it is
certaine, that two Coaches, or Carts may passe together,
one by the other. The enterance and the going out at
the other end, are like two gates, and of old light came
in by many holes or windowes from the top of the moun-
taine; but the falling of earth did by little and little
stop this light; and in the time of Seneca this passage
was so darke, as he compares it to a prison, and at last
the light was so stopped by the fall of earth, by nettles
and shrubs, as there was no light at all, till Alphonso
the first of Aragon, King of Naples, opened two windowes
towards the two ends, which onely light it hath at this

4 o

COMMENTS UPON NAPLES

I594.

day to direct passengers. At the entrance of either end,
the opposite gate seemes no bigger then a full Moone,
and a man entering there, would seeme a little child. It
hath no light in the middest, but like twilight, or the
Ovidian light which is in thicke woods, and in the twilight
of morning and evening passengers use torches, & con-
tinually the carters or horsmen when they passe by the
midst of the cave, use to give warning one to the other,
crying vulgarly Alla marina (that is towards the sea) or
Alla Montagna (that is towards the mountaine) according
to the side on which they come. Before we entered this
cave, among other stately Pallaces, one vulgarly called, The Pallace
Merguilino, built by James Sanazzarro, a famous Poet Merguilino.
almost of our age, and given by his last will to a religious
house, contains the sepulcher of a learned man, upon
which Bembus is said to have written these verses,

Da sacro cineri flores, hic ille Maroni
Sincerus, Musa proximus, ut tumulo.

These relikes decke with flowers, Sincerus here
In tombe as muse to Maro comes most neere.

Upon the mountaine of Pausilippo, is the sepulcher The sepulcher
of Virgil, shewed in two places, whom Servius writes to of I"irgil.
have beene buried in this way neere Naples; and that
these verses were written upon his sepulcher;

Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc
Parthenope, cecini pascua, rura, Duces.

Mantuan borne, Calaber dead, me holds
Parthenope, who sung ploughs, Dukes, sheepefolds.

Or thus ;

Mantua gave me life, Calabry death, my grave
Parthenope, who sung pastures, Ploughs, Captaines
brave.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Or thus ;
Mantua life did lend to me,
Calabers laid me on deaths carre;
My bones lie at Parthenope,
Who sung sheepe, tillage, feates of warre.
And the best judgements hold, that he was buried in
the Church of the Friars regular canons, at the entrance
of the cave, as you go from Naples, & not in the Church
at the going out of the Cave; and though both places
shew the sepulcher, yet these verses are in neither place,
but the inscriptions are worne out with age: the Monks
report, that there was a statua of brasse upon his sepulcher,
[I. ii. I I4. ] which those of Mantua stole from thence, & indeede, at
Mantua they shew such a statua, whether stolne from
hence or no, let them dispute.
When we had passed this Cave, wee bent our way from
The the Sea towards the land, and came to the Mountaine (m)
Mountaine
Ist,-u,o. Astruno, being of forme like a Theater, compassing a
large Plaine. Alphonso the first, King of Aragon and
Naples, and his sonne Ferdinand, used to invite the
Princes, Nobles, and People of the Kingdome, to hunting
in this place, turning the dogs and beasts they hunted,
into the valley, himselfe and the noble men sitting in a
pleasant Grove upon the top of the Mountaine, and the
people being scattered round about the Mountaine, to
behold the sport. In the same plaine compassed with
this Mountaine, is the Lake of (m) Agnano which is
said to be without bottome, and to have nothing in it
but frogs. And at the foote of the inside of the Moun-
taine next to Naples, there is a venimous Cave, vulgarly
The Cave of called (n) la grotta del' can', that is the Cave of the dogge ;
the dogge, because they trie the poison by putting dogs into it.
This Cave is some eight foote high, and sixe broad, and
goeth some foure paces under the Mountaine, where a
signe is set, beyond which, if any living thing passe, it
presently dies. Pliny writes, that this cave was called
Cheronee scrobe, evaporating a pestilent aire. We gave
242

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

part. Heere lie the ruines of a great Village of Lucullus,
and Writers affirme, that hee brought the Sea water into
the foresaid Lake, cutting the passage through Moun-
taines. Here also are the ruines of the Village of Cicero,
which retaine the old name, and the Emperour Adrian
dying at Baie, was buried here, and his successor Anthony
here built a Temple to him.
Upon the top of a Mountaine neere this place, is a
round field like a Market-place, vulgarly called (o)
Solfataria. Solfataria, which Strabo cals Forum vulcani: & Pliny
writes, that of old this place was called Campi Flegrei.
It is of an Ovall forme, somewhat more long then broad,
having I5oo foote in length, and IOOO in breadth, being
compassed on all sides with Mountaines, except the
enterance, lying towards Pozzoli. All the earth is hollow,
and being beaten with a roans foote, soundeth like an
.emptie vessell; and not only the earth by the Brimstone
as made yellow, but it made our bootes and shooes of
the same colour, with walking upon it, yea, when I cast
a piece of silver upon the ground, it was presently made
yellow, and with no rubbing could be made white againe.
In this Ovall Market place (as I may call it) there is a
[I. ii. ,5.] short and narrow ditch of water, which is almost round,
and the water thereof boyles, as if fire were under it.
They say, if any thing be cast into it, that it will be
sodden in short space; but some part of it will be con-
sumed: and Leander reports, that one cast foure egges
into it, and presently tooke three fully sodden, but the
fourth was consumed. Also he witnesseth, that this little
ditch is not alwaies in one place, but in time workes it
selfe from one place to another in this circuite, and yet
is never greater, and that the old ditch is filled presently
with new matter. An horseman cannot well come to this
place, and as the same Leander writes, an horse-man
A horse man comming boldly thither, was swallowed up into the hollow
swallowed up. earth. And that the strange heate of this water may
appeare, one of the Viceroyes Guard, a Dutchman, and
comming hither, according to their fashion, to guide his

244

COMMENTS UPON NAPLES

Countrey men my consorts, told us, that one of his
fellowes not long before, comming in like sort as hee
did, to guide his Countrimen hither, either being carelesse,
or rather (as it is most probable) having drunke too much,
and not guiding his feete well, by chance stumbled into
this ditch, and when one of his friends tooke him by the
hand to pull him out, that he pulled of all the skinne from
his hand, and that after better advice, they pulled him
out with a cloake flung about him, but that within few
daies he died, neither could the Phisitians give him any
remedy or promise any hope of his life. At the foote
of the Mountaine there is a hole, where the vapours with
their owne motion, continually cast up little stones and
stinking smelles; but if any man move these vapours
by a staffe, or any thing put into the hole, the more they
are stirred, the greater stones they cast up, yea flames of
fire sometimes. There bee some cottages neere this place,
where they make Brimstone, and all these parts smell of
brimstone, and if the winde blow from hence towards
Naples, the stinke thereof may bee smelled thither. On
all sides here be Baths of wholesome waters, which of old
were famous.
After we had passed huge ruines of old buildings, we
came at the foot of a mountaine to the City (p) Pozzoli,
of old famous, and called Puteolis, to which all these ruines
are said to have belonged of old, and it had the name of
the Latin word Putnus, as also it hath the present name
from the Italian tong, of the wels, which are frequent.
I say it hath the present name of the Italian word Pozzo,
signifying a well, though some will have it named
presently of Puzzo, which signifies a stink, because of
the smell of brimstone in these parts : but the city being
most ancient, cannot have the old name of an Italian
word: and it is certaine, that the Roman Princes of old
used this part for the place of their recreation; for the
great sweetnes of the Country, and the plenty of medicinall
waters, whereupon they gave it the first name. Others
say that it was of old called Diciarchium, but at this day
245

I594.

guide.

Pozzoli.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

The Bridge
of Baiae.

[I. ii. t6.]

it is called Pozzoli, or Puzzoli. Here we dined, and
were forced to give our swords to the Host, there being
a great penalty set upon any that carry their Armes. The
City hath nothing worth the seeing, but the old Church,
first built to Heathen Idols, and after by Christians
dedicated to Saint Proculus, and it hath the names of
the workemen that built it graven upon it, and there be
The lonesofa shewed the bones of a Giant of wonderfull bignes. The
Gian. Haven of this City was of old very commodious, but
by negligence is growne of no use.
Here the sea entring betweene two Mountaines, was
of old called the Creeke of (P) Baie, of that Citie seated
on the opposite shore, or the Creeke of Pozzoli, of this
Citie. Suetonius v/rites, that the Emperour Tiberius
consulting about his successor, and inclining more to
his true Nephew, Thrasyllus the Mathematitian should
answere, that Caius should no more raigne, then he should
ride over the Creeke of Baie. Wherefore Caius being
Emp.erour, and hearing of this divination (not as others
say, m emulation of Xerxes, who made a Bridge over
Hellespont, nor to the end that with the fame of this
great worke, he might terrifie the rebellious Germans and
Britans) did build a Bridge over this creeke of the sea,
being about three miles long, that hee might thereupon
passe from Baie to Pozzoli. Of this Bridge thirteene
piles of bricke may bee seene neere the shore at Pozzoli,
and as many on the other side neere the shore of Baie,
and some of these piles have yet arches upon them, but
ready to fall. And from these piles the Inner part of the
bridge was founded upon two rankes of shippes fastened
with ancors, and covered over with a bancke of earth,
to make the passage like the way of Appius. The rest
Suetonius addeth in these or the like words. Over this
bridge he went to and fro for two daies; the first day
upon a trapped horse, having his head adorned with a
Crowne of Oake leaves, and bearing an Hatchet, a Sword,
and a Garland, and a robe of cloth of Gold. The next
day in a Coch-mans habit, driving a Coch drawne by
246

COMMENTS UPON NAPLES

I594.

foure famous horses, carrying before him Darius a childe,
one of the pledges given by the Parthians, his Pretorian
Souldiers accompanying him, and his friends following
him in a Coach, &c. He that desires to comprehend the
magnificence of this work, must first know, that the
Mediterranean sea is very calme, having little or no ebbing
or flowing, and that this Creeke is yet more calme, and
that this bridge was built in the furthest part of the
Creeke, very neere the land. These things considered,
(if my judgement faile not), there is greater cause of A greater
wonder at the Bridge built by the Duke of Parma Bridge at
besieging Antwerp, being in like sort built upon barkes Antwerp.
fastened one to the other, and also at the Bridge of
London, bearing a great ebbing and flowing of the sea,
and built of free stone, upon so firme a foundation, as
it beareth many great and faire houses upon it: but
whatsoever the magnificence were, surely the vanitie of
this worke was great, to spend so much upon this Bridge,
the way by land being not a mile longer then by the
Bridge. Give me leave to digresse so farre, as to
remember, that the Territorie of Falernum is not farre
from Pozzoli, the wine whereof called Falernum, is so The wine of
much praised by Horace. After dinner we went from Falernum.
Pozzoli, to view the Antiquities lying upon this Creeke ;
and first we came to the Labyrinth, a building under
ground, which hath the name of the multitude of roomes,
with such passages to and fro, as a man may loose himselfe
in them; and here wee had not onely neede of the thread
of Ariadne, but of light also to conduct us. Leander
thinks, that all this building was to keepe fresh water:
Then we came to the Amphitheater, being of an Ovall
forme, the inner part whereof is t72 foot long, and 88
broad, the building wherof is little ruined : And Suetonius
writes, that this was built for the Plaies of Vulcan. Not
farre thence, neere the shoare, is a fountaine of cleare
and sweete water, flowing plentifully out of the sea, so
that for a great distance we might with our eies distinguish
the same from the sea water, which Leander thinks to

COMMENTS UPON NAPLES

I594-

But the French Gentleman Villamont worthily ]udgeth
this to be fabulous, and likewise the miracle of the
Crucifex here, bearing the markes of Christ, yet doth
he give too much credit to the miracles of Loreto.
Upon the shore of the creek of (r) Baie, lies the [I. ii. 117. ]
Lake (as Virgil saith) of the foule stinking Avernus. The t.akeof
This Lake is a naturall Haven, but is not used, because Avernus.
the Haven of Lucrinus is betweene it and the sea. It
is compassed with high hils on all sides, but onely where
the Sea enters on the South-side at a passage fifty paces
broad, and the forme of it is round, and the hils that
compasse it now seeme pleasant, but of old were all
covered with a thicke wood, which shutting up the aire,
and by the shadow drawing many birds to it, was thought
to be the cause that these birds stifled with the smell of
brimstone, fell suddenly dead, till the Emperour Augustus
caused the wood to be destroied. And of the birds thus
killed, the Lake was called Avernus. For this smell
brimstone, and the shadow of the foresaid wood, darkening
the Lake, and the blacke colour of the water, and because
the sunne is shut out from the Lake by the hils, this
Lake was reined by the Poets to be one of the Lakes of The Lake of
hell. Leander wrxtes of a fountaine here, the water Hdl.
whereof no man would drinke, because they thought it
came from hell, derived by the heat of Phlegiton, where-
upon an Oracle was built here, as in a place consecrated
to Pluto, and the Cymerians living here in a Cave, entered
this place when they had sacrificed to the Gods for the
soules of the dead. Leander also saith, that they used
to sacrifice men in this place, and nameth Elpenor sacrificed
by Ulisses (for he understands Homer to meane this
place,) and also Misenus sacrificed by /Eneas, though
Virgil write that he died here. Some will have this Lake
to be the famous Fen of Acheron, of which Virgil writes ;
Tenebrosa palus Acheronte refuso.
The darke Fen of Acheron powred out.
This also Servius affirmes, and shewes that this Lake

AoDo
I594.

The dwellings
of te
C imerians.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

comes from the infernal River Acheron, so called as
without joy. But Leander shewes that Acheron faigned
by the Poets to be a river of hell, is a river of Calabria,
and that there is another river of that name in Greece.
They say that the water of this Lake Avernus seemes
blacke, because it hath no bottome : but Leander affirmes
that some by a long rope found the bottome to be three
hundred and sixty fathome deepe. The hils that compasse
Avernus are very steepe, with a head-long fall, whereupon
Virgil saith ;
Facilis discensus Averni.
The discent of Avernus is easie.
Under the hill towards the West side, is a Cave, which
they call the cave of Sybilla of Cuma; and among many
roomes there is one, in which shee is said to have attended
her devotion, but Leander thinkes this place to have been
a sweating Bath. Of this cave Virgil thus writes:
Horrendeque procul Secreta Sybilla:
Antrum immane petit. & inferius :
Excisum Euboic latus ingens rupis in Antrum, &c.
Unde ruunt totidem voces, responsa Sibilla.
Of dreadfull Sibill the farre distant rites
To the vast cave he goes. And after
An huge den cut out in the Euboyan rockes vast
side, &c.
Whence rush so many voyces, Sybill answering.
From these hilles to the neighbour Citie Bale, they
say the earth is all hollow with caves under it, and that
the Cimerians of old dwelled under an hill towards the
sea-shore. And Leander thinkes that cave to have
belonged to them; and surely whether it belonged to
them or any old Prophets, or to the Prophetesse Sibilla,
or whose worke soever it was, the wonderfull Art
and huge expence therein do plainely appeare. These
Cimerians of old did leade strangers under the earth to
the Oracle, and were diggers in mines, and reputed to
250

COMMENTS UPON NAPLES

have the spirit of divination; whereupon the King gave
them penslons for revealing secrets unto him. These
men never saw the Sunne, but came abroad onely in the
night; whence is the proverb of Cimerian darkenesse,
and the fiction of the Poets, that they did leade strangers
to the Court of Pluto. They write, that these having
deceived the King by false divination, were by him
destroyed. Upon the Hilles of Avernus, they shew the
ruined Temple of Mercurie, and another Temple of
Apollo, little broken downe. Nero began a ditch to be [I. ii. !8.]
made from the Lake Avernus to Ostia, to avoide the
trouble of going by sea. From the said Lake there was
a sluce of old into the Lake Lucrinus, by which when
there was any floud of the sea, the water passed out of
Lucrinus into Avernus Lake: but this is now stopped
since the foresaid Earthquake of Tripergula. The Lake The Lake
Lucrinus is so called in Latin, of the gaine made by fishes Lucrinus.
sold. Suetonius writes, that Julius Cmsar let in the Sea
to this Lake as also into the other. For the Senate of
Rome making great gaine of the fish sold here, (till the
Sea did once breake in with such force, as the fish went
out of these Lakes at the ebbing of the Sea) did thereupon
commaund Cesar to give remedie thereunto, which he
did, raising bankes against the Sea, at which time he
made a passage for the fish out of one Lake into another.
Wee gave a Clowne three poli for leading us through
the Cave of Sybilla.
Upon the Sea shore lies the bath, commonly called of The Bath of
Cicero, which the Phisitians call the bath of Tritoli, of a Cicero.
Latin word for rubbing, the letter F being changed into
T, and this Bath lieth neere the ruines of the Village
of Cicero, called his Academy. I know not whether
this Village (or rather Pallace) had the name of Academy
or no; for I finde in my notes a Village of Cicero in the
way from Naples to Pozzoli, and likewise the mention
of this bath of Cicero, and his Academy, neere the Lake
of Avernus. And Leander mentions a village of his,
in both places: but Villamont speakes of a Village neere

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Pozzoli, and of a Pallace in this place called Accademy ;
and these differ not much from my notes: but others
confound the Village and the Bath, putting both together,
so as writing of these intricate caves under the earth,
my selfe am fallen into a Laberinth, wherein I had much
rather die, then goe backe to Naples for searching the
truth. We entered this Bath Tritoli, and gave a Clowne
one Poalo for conducting us. The passage to enter was
straite, and extendeth farre under the Mountaine, and
there is a marke set, which they say no man ever passed.
We did sweate extreamely, yet I desired to come to that
marke, till at last feeling my spirits begin to faile me,
I was glad to returne, and to creepe upon the earth, where
the aire was more cold then above. They say that this
bath is very healthfull, and much frequented in the spring
time, and that Nero had of old a Pallace built over it.
The ruins of Neere this lie the ruines of Baulos or Boaulia, named
Baulos. of the oxen stolen, by Gerion, for here was the Temple
of Hercules, and Servius, expounding Virgil, saith that
Eneas did here speake with Hercules. Leander writes
that Hortensius did here make cesternes, wherein hee kept
his so much prised Lampreyes. Tacitus and Suetonius
in the life of Nero, make mention of this place. For
Agripina mother of Nero, passing by water from the
Village of Piso to this Baulos, was of purpose and by
The the commaund of Nero put into a rotten boate, that she
wickedness of might be drowned, which boate splitting in the middest
Nero. of the passage, Agripina perceived the intent, and silently
(the height being darke) slipped into another boate, and
so for that time escaped: but her waiting-maide being
in great danger, and crying out that shee was Mother
to Nero, found death by that name, by which she hoped
to save her life, being presently struck into the water by
one of the conspiratours. At last when wicked Nero
resolved to kill his Mother, he invited her to a feast,
entertaining her lovingly on the Sea shore, and when she
returned, out of shew of duty attending her to this Baulos,
lying betweene the Misene Promontory, and the Lake

COMMENTS UPON NAPLES

of Bale ; but at the same time he commaunded that she
should be killed, and here under the earth we did see
her sepulcher in a cave, curiously carved, and one of the
finest old monuments I did ever see.
Hence we passed to (s) Bale, an ancient Citie, and for Bale.
the sweetenesse preferred to Rome by Horace:
Nullus in urbe locus Baiis prelucet anaanis.
No place of Rome sweete Bale doth excell.
The situation of this Citie is most sweete: but all
the houses neere the shoare are drowned, except the Baths,
and the houses upon the mountaine are all ruined, neither
doe any dwel here, but some few poore and miserable
people (such as the husbandmen of Italy are commonly)
yet these ruines shew the pride and magnificence of that
old time. This Citie is said to have the name of a friend [I. ii. 9-]
of Ulisses there buried. Here bee the foresaid ruines
of Caligula his Bridge, which I said doe lie on this side
the Creeke. Here we did see the stately., ruines of two
Senators houses, where the excellent pctures did yet
remaine upon the highest roofe. They shewed us a tree
(as they said) turned into a stone and the ruines of the
Temples of Diana and Venus.
From hence we walked towards the Mountaine The
Misenus, and neere the dead sea; first, wee came to Mountaine
(t) a hill, made hollow by the building under it, which Mienus.
is vulgarly called of the number of the roomes Cento
camerelle, that is, One hundred little chambers. Leander
saith, that it was a Cesterne to keepe fresh-water, whereof
the Romans had great store in these parts, whether they
came certaine seasons of the yeere to recreate themselves ;
and all this Territorie on both sides neere this Creeke
or Bay of the Sea, are so full of ruined Palaces, Temples,
and Sepulchers, as a man would say, they were not severall
Villages, but one great Citie. The said building is large,
and foure square, and sustained by foure rankes of foure
square pillars, into which wee were let down at a hole in
the earth. Round about the entrance there were many
253.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Celles, almost foure square, and of an unequall bignesse,
parted with enteries winding about, and because the
building is intricate, some thinke it was a Laberinth.
(v) The ruines of a stately building are opposite to
this, into which wee descended by fortie staires; it hath
no windowes, but all the light comes in at crannies, and
it hath foure rankes of fouresquare pillars to beare up the
arched roofe. Every ranke hath twelve pillars, and in
all they be fortie eight, and each one is twelve foote distant
from the other, and twelve foote high; to which if you
ad the high roofe of the building, the roome is twenty
five foot high, which I beheld not without being amazed
at the magnificence of the Romans in these buildings.
This house is little broken downe, and the plaister of the
wall is so hard, as I could not pierce it with my dagger,
and it is vulgarly called la piscina mirabile. It is certaine,
that the Romans of old bestowed great charge in building
places for the keeping of fish, and some thinke this was
built to that purpose by Antonia, the wife of Drusus;
others say by Hortensius: but Leander saith, that it
was built to keepe fresh water, and he (with other Writers)
doth judge it a stately monument of the Pallace of
Lucullus built neere Bale, which he proveth out of
Plutarch, who mentions one Pallace of Lucullus in his
foresaid village for his Summer dwelling, and another
here neere Bale for his Winter abode. And Tacitus saith,
that the Emperour Tiberius foreseeing his death, and
often changing places, at last came to this place, and here
died. It were an infinite worke if I should severally
describe the Pallaces of Marius, Caesar, and Lucullus.
I will not omit, that our Guides (I know not how
credibly) shewed us certaine round (w) fields, compassed
round with Mountaines, and at this time plowed, which
they said were the Elisian fields.
We are now come to the (x) Misene Promontary, which
hath the name of Misenus, friend to Eneas, buried here,
or rather by him sacrificed to the gods at the Lake Avernus
as is aforesaid. Upon the top of this Mountaine was
254

COMMENTS UPON NAPLES
594-
was of old called Linternum, whether Scipio the Affrican Linternm.
retired into vuluntary banishment, to flie the envy of
the ungratefull Romans, and there he built him a stately
Pallace, and a sepulcher in which he would be buried;
saying, that the ungratefull Romans should not have so
much as his bones. Livy in his twenty two Booke cals
Linternum a sandy soyle, beyond Vulturnus from Rome:
but Leander thinkes that hee spake this of the territory,
not of the place it selfe ; and that the rather, because
in his twenty three Booke, he writes; that Sempronius
the Consull, did lead the forces to Linternum beyond
Vulturnus, and there doth agree in the situation thereof
with all writers; and the sharpe fountaine like vineger,
whereof Pliny writes, is found among these ruines, which
water he saith makes them drunken that drinke thereof,
though others write that they have taken it moderately
without any such effect. Pliny also writes, that this water
moderately taken, hath the vertue to cure the head-ach..4 cure for
While Scipio lived here in solitude, Livy and Plutarke head-ach.
write, that certaine bold and valiant Pirats, upon the fame
of his vertue, came to see the face, & heare the words of
so great a Captaine. Livy in his thirty eight Booke,
writes that he did see two sepulchers of Scipio, this at
Linternum, and the other at Rome, neere the gate Capena,
both decked with carved Images; and that these verses
were written upon his Tombe at Linternum ;
Devicto Annibale, capta Carthagine, & aucto
Imperio, hoc cineres marmore tectus babes.
Cui non Europa, non obstitit Africa quondam,
Respice res hominum, quam brevis urna premat.
Hannibal foild, Carthage sack'd, and th' Empire
Inlarg'd, thine ashes in this marble lie,
Whom Europe or Afrique, nere made retire
How short a chest holds? see marts vanity.
Leander thinkes that Scipio was buried in this place,
aswell because Livy writes it, as for the words of
Scipio related by Valerius Maximus, that his ungratefull
*. 57

[[. ii. z, .]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Countrey should not have so much as his bones. And
he thinks that the monument at Rome was either built
by Scipio in the time of his prosperity, or by his friends
long after, in memory of so worthy a kinse-man. As
we walked from Cuma to Linternum, we did see no
memorable thing, but tooke this iourney onely out of
desire to see the monument of this famous man, neither
did we know the danger from banished men in this place,
1 dangerous who often resort to this poore Inne ; yet for that cause
lnne. this way from Naples to Rome, more commodious then
the other, and therefore having post-masters appointed
there for publike affaires, had long beene forsaken by
passengers. This way to Rome is thus distinguished
rot. miles. From Naples to la Patria sixteene miles,
to la Rocca foureteene, to la Fratta eighteene, to Ponte
Curt., ten, to Capetano eight, to Frusalone eighteen,
to Piedavani three, to val' di Montone twenty two, to
la Ficha foureteene, to Rome eight. There is no house
at Linternum but the foresaid base Inne, and there we
lodged, and found not our supper answerable to the
Miserable fruitfulnesse of Campania, neither had we any beds, and
Lodging. could hardly get cleane straw, which inconveniences were
accompanied with the feare to be surprised by the banished
men, so as we slept not one winke that night. Here
we did see two Towers, one compassed with water, and
neere the Tower della Patria, we did see the ruines of
a stately Pallace, which they said was the Pallace of
Scipio, and that he was buried there. Also we did see
a pillar, upon which were the Armes engraven of the
Kings of Spaine and Naples, and we did see the ruines
of a bridge, which shewed the old magnificence thereof.
But there was nothing to be seene, that might counter-
vaile the danger we had runne. Our journey the day
before from Naples to Baie was very pleasant, through
most fruitfull hils of corne and vines. But from Cuma
to this Tower, the way upon the sea shore was wild and
barren, yet not farre distant within land we might see
most pleasant and fruitfull hils.
258

COMMENTS UPON ROME

594-

When we had passed a night without sleepe at
Linternum, we returned early in the morning to Naples,
by the same way we came, but with a more right line.
And there I made no stay, because England then had
warres with Spaine, but tooke the next opportunity to
returne to Rome with the Carrier, after the same fashion
I came hither; and I paied to my Vetturine fifty two Chargefl'om
poli for my horse and horse-meat, and my owne diet Napleto
from Naples to Rome, and beyond my covenant (to Rome.
gratifie him) I was content to pay for my diet the first
and last meale, which I promised of my owne free will,
yet should have beene forced thereunto, for otherwise
he would have carried me fasting to Rome, and have
given me slender diet at Capua, being a plentifull place;
and I observed the other passengers to doe the like in
these places, where they were out of danger.
I passe over the journies, which I have discribed
before, and wil only say in a word, that we returned to
Rome, where that I might stay with more security, to Rome.
see the antiquities thereof, it hapned very fitly, that the
Cardinall Allan an E. nglishman, having used to persecute
the English commlng thither, and therefore b.eing ill
spoken of by them, had changed his mind, since the
English had overthrowne the Spanish Navy, in the yeere
1588. and there was now small hope of reducing England
to papistry, and therefore to gaine his Countrey-mens
love, did not onely mislike that they should be intrapped
at Rome, but did himselfe protect them, though suspected
for religion, so they would seeke his favour: whereof I
being advertised by the experience of others, when I
had in silence, and through many dangers seene Naples
subject to the King of Spaine, and was now returned
to Rome, I presently went to the said Cardinall, and
after the fashion, having kissed the heroine of his vesture,
I humbly desired, that according to this his curtesie, for
which bee was much honoured in England, bee would
receive mee into his protection, till I might view the [I. ii. 122.]
antiquities of Rome. He being of a goodly stature and
59

A.). FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY
I594.
Cardina! countenance with a grave looke and pleasant speech bad
'/an. me rest secure, so I could commaund my tongue, and
should abstaine from offence. Onely for his duties sake,
hee said, that he must advise me, and for the love of his
Countrey intreate me, that I would be willing to heare
those instructions for religion here, which I could not
heare in England. I submitted my selfe to these con-
ditions, and when (after due reverence made) I would
have gone away, the English Gentlemen and Priests there
present, overtooke me in the next roome. Among these
was an Englishman, a Priest of Calabria, who in my
journey from Naples hither, had been my consort by the
way, at the table, and even in bed, whom I had often
/,0,t heard talking with the Italians of English affaires, but
Priest. more modestly and honestly then any man would expect
of a Priest. He taking my selfe and one Master
Warmington an English Gentleman by the hands, with
an astonished looke, did congratulate with me, that I,
who had bin his companion at bed and boord, and whom
he had taken rather for any countriman, was now become
an English man. All the rest commended my judgement,
in comming to the Cardinall, and inquiring after my
lodging, promised to be my guides in Rome, and for
Countries sake, to doe me all good offices, and so after
mutuall salutations, I went from them. I well knew,
that such guides would be very troublesome to me, for
they (according to the manner) disputing of Religion,
I must either seeme to consent by silence, or maintaine
arguments ful of danger in that place, besides that to
.gratifie them for their courtesie, I must needes have runne
into extraordinary expences. Therefore having told them
my lodging, I presently changed it and tooke a chamber
in a vitling house, in the Market-place, close under the
Popes Pallace, where I thought they, or any else would
least seeke mee, and so being free from that burthen,
and yet secure in the Cardinals promised protection, I
began boldly, (yet with as much hast as I possibly could
make) to view the Antiquities of Rome.
26o

COMMENTS UPON ROME

in length, and some fiftie paces in bredth, and it is full
of stately Churches and houses.
If you draw a line from the East-side of the Mountaine
Capitolino (XXII) to the Gate del popolo, (IIII) lying
towards the North; and from the said Mountaine draw
a line to the furthest part of the Bridge upon the West
side of the Iland of Tyber, this compasse may truly be
called Rome, as at this day it is inhabited; for the rest llthabited
lies wilde, having only ruines, and some scattered Churches
and houses, and towards the South, fieldes of corne within
the walles. They say, that Romulus did onely build upon
three Mountaines, the Palatine, the Capitoline, and the
Celian, yet others adde the Esquiline, and that he com-
passed them with walles, and that he built the Gate
Carmentalis, so called of the mother of Evander, which
lies under the Capitoll upon the right hand betweene the
rock Tarpeius and the River Tiber, and was also called
the cursed-Gate, of the 3oo Fabii, which went out of
the same to fight, and were all killed in one day. And
that he built the Roman Gate lying neere the Mount [I. ii. z4. ]
Pallatine, towards the Amphitheater, called Obelisco, and
the Gate Pandana, so called, because it was alwaies open.
After, seven Mountaines being inclosed, Rome had eight
Gates, and after thirtie foure (as Livy writes), and at last
thirtie seven Gates.
At this day the first Gate is called (IIII) del popolo, Te Gates.
lying on the East-side of Tiber towards the North, which
of the River was of old called Flumentana, and of the
way of Flaminius, to which it did leade, was called
Flaminia. The second Gate is called (V) Pinciana, of
a Senator of that name, and of old was called Collatina
of a Pallace adjoyning, and it is a mile distant from the
former Gate. The third Gate is called (VI) la Salaria,
of salt brought in that way, and was of old called
Qirinalis, of the Temple, or the Mountaine adjoyning
of the same name, and also called Agona of a Mountaine,
or as having no corner; and also called Collina of a Hill,
and it is lesse then a mile distant from the last named

594-
The Gates.

FYNES MORVSON'S ITINERARY

Gate. The fourth Gate is called (VII) la Pia, of Pope
Plus the fourth, who repaired it, and the way without
it, and it is more then halfe a mile distant from the last
named Gate. At this day it is many times called Saint
Agnese of a Church lying neere it. And it was of old
called Viminalis of Oseyres growing there, and also called
Figulensis of Potters dwelling there, and also called of
old Numentina of a Castle. I will omit the Gate, of old
called Inter Aggeres, because almost no ruines therof
remaine at this day. The fifth Gate is called (VIII)
di S. Lorenzo of the Church neere it. It was of old
called Tiburtina (though others think that Gate was neerer
to Tyber on this side) and Esquilina of a place neere it,
and Taurina of a bulles head which still is graven upon
it ; and it is a mile and a halfe distant from the last named
Gate. The sixth Gate is called (IX) Maggiore, and was
of old called Nevia, and Labicana, and Prenestina. The
seventh is called (X) di S. Giovanni, and it was of old
called Celimontana of a Mountaine, and Q.gircotulana
of an Oake, and Settimia, and Asinaria. The eighth is
called (XI) Latina of Latium to which it leades, and was
of old called Firentina, and is more then a mile distant
from the seventh Gate. The ninth from the eighth more
then halle a mile distant, is called (XII) di S. Sebastiano,
of the Church to which it leades, and was of old called
Capena of the Citie or River of that name; and also
Camena of a Church, and Appia of the way which Appius
the Censor paved, and Fontinale of the Fountaines; and
some write it was called Trionfale for part of the
Triumphes that did enter there. And the brother of the
Horatii escaping in the fight against the brothers Curiatii,
did returne at this Gate : without the same is the Sepulcher
of Scipio the Africane, whereof I spake describing
Linternum neere Naples (where he would be buried, farre
from his ungratefull Countrey). The tenth Gate is called
(XIII) di S. Paolo of the Church whither it leades, and
was of old called Trigemina of the 3 Horatii going out
there, and called Ostiensis, as leading to Ostia where
264

COMMENTS UPON ROME

Tyber runs into the Sea, and it is a mile from the twelfth
Gate, and as much distant from the River Tyber. The
eleventh Gate lies on the West side of Tyber, in that
part of the Citie which I said is called (II) Trastevere,
and is distant from Tyber halle a quarter of a mile, being
called (XIIII) di ripa, and was of old called Portuensis,
as leading to the Haven of Rome, made by the Emperour
Claudius. The twelfth Gate almost a mile distant from
the former, is called (XV) di S. Pancratio, and of old
was called Aurelia of Aurelius the Emperor, or of the
way Aurelia, and of others called Pancratiana, and it lieth
neere the Mountaine Janiculo. The thirteenth Gate halle
a mile distant from the former, is called (XVI) Settimiana,
of the Emperour Settimius, whose name is engraven upon
it, & it was repaired by Pope Alexander the sixth. Some
think this Gate was called Fontinale, others Festinale,
and it is the last Gate in Trastevere. The fourteenth
Gate is called (XVII) di S. Spirito and it is the first
in that part of the Citie called (I) Borgo. The fifteenth
gate is called in the map (XVIII) Fornacum, but I find
it called by Writers del Torrione, and Posterula, and to
be repaired by Pope Nicholas the fifth. The sixtenth
Gate is called (XIX) la Portusa, being neere to the Popes
stables. The sevententh is called (XX) di Belvedere,
lying neere the Popes Pallace and (3) Garden, and it is
called in some Mapps Angelica, and by others Giulia,
of the Pope Giulius. The eightenth is called (XXI)
di S. Angelo, and del Castello, of the Castle S. Angelo,
and it was of old called Enea, and more lately di Cenello.
I passe over the Gate called of old la Trionfante, where
the greatest triumphs did enter, because no ruines remaine
thereof, but onely it is said to have bin seated neere the
Triumphall Bridge. (XXXVI)
It remaines to speake of the waies leading to Rome,
which I will note with the letters of the Gates leading
to them. And first I will onely name the wayes that are
within the walles.
The first la Suburra begins at the Amphitheater, called
265

594.
The Gate.

[1. ii. z5. ]

COMMENTS UPON ROME

x594.

it was joyned with the way called Claudia, and of old
was called the large way. Where the way of Flaminius
endes, there begins the way !Emilia, made by his fellow
Consul !Emilius Lepidus, leading to Bologna, and paved
to the very Alpes. Yet there is another way of the same
name neere Pisa. The way Collatina is without the Gate
(V) Pinciana; the way Salaria without the Gate (VI)
Salaria ; the way Tiburtina without the Gate (VIII) Saint
Lorenzo, the way Prrenestina without the Gate (IX)
Maggiore, on the left hand or East-side; and the way
Labicana on the right hand or South-side of the same
Gate. In the way Prrenestina is the stately Conduit, or
Aqueduct of Pope Sixtus O43intus, extending it selfe many
miles upon the next Plaine, where lie the ruines no lesse
wonderfull, whereof I spake in my journey from Rome
to Naples. To conclude, the way Latina is without the
Gate (XI) Latina; the way Ostiensis without the Gate
Saint (XIII) Paolo; the way Aurelia without the Gate
(XV) Saint Pancratio; which (if I be not deceived) was
called also the way Vitelia, paved from the Mount Janiculo
to the Sea. But who would not wonder, that from the
Gate (XIX) Portusa, the way should leade into the Valley
of Hell (for so it is called), close to the holy Seate of the
Popes.
Rome was of old called Septicollis, of seven Hilles, The Se,cn or little Mountaines contained within the walles, namely Hilles.
Capitolinus, Palatinus, Aventinus, Celius, Esquilinus,
Viminalis, and Q.girinalis. Hereof the first and chiefe
is (XXII) Capitolinus, of old called Saturnius, of the
Citie Saturnia, and Tarpeius of the Virgin Ter.p.eia, which
betraying her Countrey to the Sabines, giving them
entrance at that place, was for reward there killed by
them. And at last in the raigne of Tarquin the proud,
it was called Capitolinus of a head digged out of the
ground. At this day it is vulgarly called I1 Capidoglio.
It is divided into two parts, namely, the Capitolium, and
the Rocke Tarpeius, lying on the North side of the hil.
And it had sixty Churches, wherof the chiefe was of old
267

594.
The Eight
Bridgt.

[I. ii. 27. ]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

tyrant Maxentius. Also this bridge was famous for the
night lusts of Nero. The second bridge is called (XXXV)
di Castel' Sant' Angelo, and it was of old called Elius,
of the Emperour Elius Adrianus, who built it; but Pope
Nicholas the fifth built it as now it stands, and set upon
it the Image of Saifit Peter with his keyes, and of Saint
Paul with his sword. The third bridge is called (XXXVI)
Vaticanus, as leading to that Mount, and was also of old
called Triumphalis, of the Triumphes passing upon it,
and it was not lawfull for the Countrey people to enter that
way, but at this day onely the ruines thereof are seene.
The fourth bridge is called (XXXVII) Ponte-Sisto of
Pope Sixtus the fourth, who repaired it. It was of old
called Janiculensis of that Mount, and Aurelius of the
way of that name, and it was built of marble by Antoninus
Pius, and after being decaied, was long called Ponte Rotto,
that is, the broken bridge, till the said Pope repaired it in
the yeere I475- and it is two hundred and fifteene foote
broad, and is built upon three Arches of stone. The fifth
bridge joining Rome and the Iland, and next to the
Capitolium, is called (XXXVIII) Ponte di quattro Capi,
and was of old called Tarpeius, of the Rocke Tarpeia,
which is in the Mount Capitolino, and was called Fabricius
of the repairer, and it is seventy foot long, and hath but
one Arch of stone. The sixth bridge of a Church neere
it is called (XXXIX) di S. Maria /Egittiaca, and was of
old called Senatorius and Palatinus, and it is somewhat
longer then the bridge Sisto. The seventh bridge of a
Church neere it is called (XL) di S. Bartolomeo, and it
is opposite to the fifth bridge, and joineth the Iland with
that part of Rome called Trastevere, and of old it was
called Esquilinus, and Cestius, and it is sixty foot long,
havin but one Arch of stone. The eight bridge at the
foot 'f the Mount Aventine, was of old called (XLI)
Sublicius, because it was built of wood, in the warre with
the Tuscanes, that it might be more easily broken and
repaired. And we read that the Tuscanes being Victors,
had taken Rome, if Horatius Cocles had not defended

270

COMMENTS UPON ROME

the bridge, till it was broken downe behind him, which
done, he saved himselfe by swimming. After that
Emilius Lepidus built this bridge of stone, and called
it Emilius ; and when it was broken with floods, first the
Emperour Tyberius repaired it, and then Antoninus Pius
built it very high of marble, & condemned men were
cast from it into the water. This bridge being the first
that was built over Tyber, now is not to be seene by
any ruines.
Rome by the great power of the Emperours, and since Thefirst
of the Popes, hath beene long most famous, and was building of
first built in Latium upon Tyber, fifteene miles from the Rome.
Tyrrhene sea, (as the Greekes write) by Ascanius,
Eurilantes, Romulus, and Remus, Nephewes to /Eneas,
or (as other Greekes write) by the Achivi, or (as other
Greekes write) by the sonnes of Roma, a woman of Troy,
married to the Latine King of the Aborigenes, which
sonnes were Romulus and Remus, or (as Xenagoras writes)
by the sonne of Ulisses by Circe, to omit many other
opinions of the Greekes. The Latine Historians doe no
lesse vary. Some say it was built by the sonnes of/Eneas,
namely, Romulus and Remus. Others say that Ascanius
built Alba, and Remus built Capua, and Romulus built
Janiculum, after called Rome. But I omit these divers
opinions, and will follow Leander the Fryar, who saith
that Roma the daughter of the King in Italy, built Rome
the same yeere that Moses was borne. And when the
City had beene long forsaken, for the unwholsome ayre
of the Fennes adjoining, that Evander comming from
Arcadia into Italy, seated himselfe upon the Mount
Palatine, and built a City called Palantium, of his City
in Arcadia, and he being dead, that Hercules comming
with an Army, left some of his consorts here, who built
upon the Mount of Saturnius, after called Capitolinus.
Before the destruction of Troy, for the unwhols0me aire,
Rome being againe forsaken, that the Albani began to
dwell there in Cottages, and feed their flockes there. For
by the continuall overflowings of Tyber, the field was

COMMENTS UPON ROME

is tenne men) ruled for two yeeres, and the Tribunes for
Military affaires, having Consular power, ruled forty three
yeeres, and in the time of any difficult warre, a Dictator
was chosen, who with absolute power ruled till that
businesse was ended, and there were no Magistrates for
foure yeeres. At last Julius Cesar with the title of per- Julius Caesar.
petuall Dictator, invaded the Empire, which being after
divided into the Orientall and Occidentall Empire, and
the Occidentall being destroied by the incursions of
barberous Nations, the Bishops of Rome by little and
little cast their Orientall Lords out of Italy, and erected
a new Occidentall Empire in France, that they might
invade the power of the Roman Emperors, and of the
heavenly jurisdiction upon earth, under pretext of
Religion, by a new monster of a Roman wit, drawne
fi'om the supremacy of the Apostle Saint Peter.
Pliny in his time makes the circuit of Rome twenty Te circuit
miles, and Vopiscus in the time of the Emperour Aurelius, of Rome.
makes the circuit fifty miles, but he joyned to Rome all
the neighbour villages. At this day if you adde to Rome
the two parts beyond Tyber, called Trastevere and Borgo,
the circuit at the most is fifteene miles, for others say
thirteene or fourteene, besi.des that a very great part of
this circuit within the walles is not inhabited: and the
walles notwithstanding lie not upon their old foundations,
neither are built of that matter, but as it pleased those
who repaired them. Among which Belisarius governour
of Italy, under the Emperour Justinian, built Rome
demolished by the Gothes, and made the circuit of the
walles lesse; and Pope Adrian the first, a Roman, the
wals being fallen, built them as now they stand, and many
of his successours have since added new ornaments to
decaied Rome. But the old wals (as appeares by some
ruines) were built of foure square stone, the rest are of
divers building, as it pleased the repairers, and have a
bricke gallery to walke upon, under which men may stand
dry when it raines; and they being ready to fal with age,
have many round Towers, which in like so't are ready
M. 3 s

AoD.
I594.
.flowings of
Tyler.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

to fall. Rome at this day is troubled with the old over-
flowings of Tyber, by reason of the Tybers narrow bed,
not able to receive the waters, falling suddenly from neere
mountaines, after great raine or melting of snow. For
memory whereof, these inscriptions are upon the wals
of the Church of Saint Mary sopra Minerva. In the
yeere i53o. (if I be not deceived; for the first words
are raced out) the Ides of October, Clement the seventh
being Pope.
Huc Tyber ascendit, jamque obruta tota fuisset
Roma, nisi celerem virgo tulisset opem:
Thus farre came Tyber, and all Rome had drown'd,
Had we not from the Virgin, swift helpe found.
And there in another place this verse is written, in the
yeere MVD.
Extulit huc tumidas turbidus Amnis aquas.
Thus farre this muddy brookes water did swell.
4 ,,,a,e of In each place is a red marke upon the wals how high
teflo,,cl, the water ascended, by which it appeares, marking the
seat of the Church, that all the plaine was overflowed
betweene it and the Tyber. By reason of these flouds,
and for that the City is built upon the caves of old Rome,
(which makes the foundations to be laid with great charge)
and also by reason of the vapours rising from the Baths,
[I. ii. ,z9. ] the aire of Rome is at this day unwholsome. The Romans
drinke raine water, and the troubled waters of Tyber,
kept in Cesternes, and they bragge that it is proper to
the water of Tyber, the longer it is kept to grow more
pure. Surely strangers doe not like that water, howsoever
the Romans (making a vertue of necessity) doe say that
it was onely made good to drinke at Rome, and no where
els, by the blessing of Pope Gregory the Great.
Now being to describe the antiquities of Rome, I will
first set downe out of order the seven Churches, famous
for the indulgences of Popes, which they say were built
by the Emperour Constantine the Great. Then I will
274

AoDo
I594.
The chie
relikes.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

of Saint Peter, a Cup in which Saint John dranke poyson
at the command of Domitian, and had no hurt. The
cloth with which Christ dried his Disciples feet, the heads
of Peter and Paul, the rodde of Aaron, the Arke of the
covenant, the table at which Christ supped; three marble
gates of Pilates house, the Image of Christ being twelve
yeeres old, with the like. Part of these (they say) were
brought from Hierusalem by the Emperour Titus, yet
he was no Christian, nor like to regard the monuments
of Christ. One Chappell of this Church is called,
Sanctum Sanctorum, and is thought to have beene the
Chamber of Constantine, neither may any woman enter
it. To conclude, the place is shewed here, in which many
counsels have beene held, and the Popes long dwelt here,
before the Pallace in the Vaticane was built.
T,e Church The Church of (B) Saint Peter in the Mount Vaticano,
of sai,t Peter. joines to the Popes Pallace, they say it was built by
Constantine the Great. The Popes have given full
remission of sinnes to them that pray here upon certaine
daies, and like remission for certaine yeeres sinnes, praying
on other daies; and the remission of the third part of
all sinnes, praying there upon Saint Peters even. And
you must understand that all these Churches have some
like indulgences. Here they shew the bodies of Saint
Simeon, and Saint Jude the Apostle, and Saint John
Chrysostome, and of Pope Saint Gregory the Great: and
the head of Saint Andrew and of Saint Luke the
Evangelist, and halle the bodies of Saint Peter and Saint
Paul, and Christs face printed upon the hand-kercher of
Veronica, and the head of the speare thrust into the
side of Christ; and among many pillars brought from
Hierusalem, one upon which Christ leaned, when he did
preach and cast out Divels, which yet hath power (as
they say) to cast out Divels. Alwaies understand that
[I. ii. 3o.] in Italy Priests that cast out Divels, are most frequent,
neither are they wanting in any place where the Papists
can hide their impostures. Great part of these relikes
they say were sent by the Turkish Emperour to Pope
7 6

COMMENTS UPON ROME

Innocent the eight. But I omit these things, into which
none but Papists may safely inquire, and returne to the
monuments which lie open to every mans view. The
Chappell is most rich in which Gregory the xiii. lies, and
the stately sepulcher of Pope Paul the third hath most
faire statuaes. The statua of Saint Peter of brasse placed
under the Organs, was of old erected to Jupiter Capi-
tolinus. In the Court of the Church (for I cannot call
it a Church-yard) the Emperour Otho the second lies
buried, in a low sepulcher of Porphry. There is a most
faire Pine apple of brasse, guilded, more then five cubites
high, which they say was brought hither from the monu-
ment of the Emperour Adrian, in the place where the
Castle of Saint Angelo now stands, (as likewise the
Peacockes were brought from the Monument of Scipio.)
The third Church of St. Paul is without the (XIII)
gate of St. Paul, about a mile from the City, in the way of st. Paul.
to Ostia, and they say it was built by Constantine, and
it stands uppon eighty eight pillars of marble, in foure
rowes, each pillar being but one stone, and it is adorned
with marble staires, and pictures Alla Mosaica, as if they
were engraven, which are onely in the chancell and neere
the doore. The Popes have given great indulgences to
these Churches, as well as to others. They shew here
the bodies of Saint Timothy, Saint Celsus, and Saint
Julian, Disciples to Saint Paul, and halle the bodies of
Saint Peter and St. Paul, and a Crucifix which of old
spake to Saint Briget, the Qeene of Suevia, and many
armes and fingers of Saints. Neere this Church is that
of Saint Anastatius, where the head of Saint Paul being
cut off, made three leapes, and in the place where it fell,
they say there sprang up three fountaines, which are there
to bee seene.
The fourth Church of Saint (C) Mary Maggiore, is Te Church
upon the Mount Esquiline: I will omit hence forward of SaintMary
the indulgences and relikes, lest I be tedious. This Maggiore.
Church is adorned with forty pillars of Marble. The rich
Chappell di presepio, (so called of the cratch in which
277

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Christ was borne, being kept here) is stately adorned with
the pavement engraved, the arched roofe guilded, pictures
Alla Mosaica as if they were engraven, the stately
sepulcher of Pope Nicholas, and his statua of white
marble. The Chappell of Pius Qintus, built for him
after his death by Sixtus the fifth, is adorned with the
Victory painted in golden letters, which he and his con-
federates had by sea against Selimus Emperour of the
Turkes, and is adorned with statuaes guilded, with foure
Angels guilded, and precious stones, together with the
rare Art of engravers and Painters.
The Church The fifth Church S. Lorenzo, is without the (VIII)
8. Lorenzo. gate of that name, in the way to Tiburtina, something
more then a mile from the City, and it is said to be built
by Constantine the Great. He that goes to this Church
every wednesday in a whole yeere, shall deliver a soule
from Purgatory, if the Pope keepe his promise. It is
adorned with a Pulpit of white marble, and most faire
ophite stones, and at the doore, xvith a sepulcher of Saint
Eustacius, of white marble curiously carved, and another
sepulcher opposite to that.
T,e C,,rc The sixth Church S. Sebastiano, is without the (XII)
8. Sebastiano. gate of that name, more then a mile out of the City,
in the way of Appius. Here is a place called Catacombe,
and there is a well, in which they say the bodies of Saint
Paul and Saint Peter did lie unknowne a long time, and
here is a way under earth to the Church yard of Calixtus,
where they say the Christians lay hid, in the times of
persecution; and that there were found 74- thousand
which had beene made Martyres, and that eight of these
were Bishops of Rome. Here on all sides with amaze-
ment I beheld the ruines of old buildings, and the
sepulcher of the Emperour Aurelius is not farre from this
Church.
Te C,,,c The seventh Church (D) di S. Croce in Gierusalem,
di S. Crote. is seated between the gate Maggiore, & the gate S.
Giovanni, upon the Mount Celius or rather Celiolus,
being part of it, and it is said that Constantine the Great
78

COMMENTS UPON ROME

I594.

built it. Here they shew a little vessell filled with the
blood of Christ, and the spunge which they gave him
with vineger upon the crosse, and the title which Pilate
writ upon the Crosse, and one of the thirty pence which
Judas tooke for betraying Christ. And no woman may [I. ii. j1.]
enter into the Chappell wherein Helena is said to have
praied, but once onely in the yeere upon the twelfth of
March. And this Church gives the title to a Cardinall.
The second day we began the view of Rome with the
(Q) Popes Pallace, seated in the part of the Citie, called The Popes
I1 Borgo; which Pallace Pope Nicholas the third built,
and Nicholas the fifth compassed with walles, and the
Pallace is of great circuit, and the staires are so easie,
that Horses and Mules may goe up to the top of the
Mountaine, and with easie ascent and descent beare the
Popes carriage. At the enterance there be three galleries
one above the other, whereof the two first were built by
Leo the tenth, and Paul the third, and the third and
highest by Sixtus Qintus, and they are all fairely painted
and guilded. Upon these lie two large chambers, and
beyond them is a vast and long gallery of foure hundred
seventie and one walking paces, in the middest whereof
is the famous Librarie of the Popes In vaticano; and
therein are many inscriptions of the Pope Sixtus Qintus Librat@.
who repaired it, and it is adorned with many faire pictures
guilded all over. I did see the severall roomes thereof.
The first one hundred fortie and seven walking paces long,
had three rowes of Cubbards filled with bookes: the
second was thirtie nine paces long; and the third con-
taining the bookes of greatest price locked up, was twentie
paces long. Pope Sixtus the fourth built this Librarie,
with the Chappell of the Pallace, and the Conclave. The
wall of the Chappell shineth like a glasse with precious
stones: where the Pope Sixtus Qintus commanded
Michael Angelo to paint the day of Judgement,. and the
common report is, that this Pope promised this famous
Painter, that he would not come into the Chappell, till
he had finished his worke; yet by some Cardinals
279

I594.

The Massacre
of Paris
painted.

The Chappell
of Pope Paul
the third.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

perswasions that he broke his promise, and that the Painter
thereupon made the pictures of the Pope and the Cardinals
in hell amongst the Divels, so lively as every man might
know them. Betweene this Chappell and the Conclave,
(where they chuse the Popes) lies a Kingly Gallery, not
unworthily called vulgarly Sala Regia, (which others call
Sala del Conclave). The wall of this Gallery in like sort
shineth with pretious stones, and the pavement is of
pretious marble, the arched roofe all guilded, and at the
upper end I wondred to see the Massacre of Paris painted
upon the wall, with the Popes inscription greatly com-
mending that detestable cruelty. At the same upper end
the foresaid Chappell (as you come up) lies on the left
hand, and the Conclave on the right hand; in which
Conclave the Cardinals meete to chuse the Pope, devided
into severall roomes, but meeting at a common table, and
when they have chosen him, they leade him into a Chappell
at the lower end, and neere the dore of the said Kingly
Gallery, and place him there upon a hollow seate of
Marble. I know not whether this be the chaire, in which
the sex of the Pope is tried, but I am sure it is hollow,
with a hole in the bottom. After they put a Banner out
of a high window, and there make knowne to the people
the name that the Pope hath chosen, and then his armes
are hung up round about. This Chappell at the lower
end of the said Gallery, hath the name of Pope Paul the
third, of the Family of Farnese, and it is little, and of
a round forme (as I remember), but it is beautifull beyond
imagination. The images of the Apostles seeme to bee
of silver, and Paradice painted upon the arched roofe, with
Angels flying, being the worke of Michael Angelo, seemed
to me admirable. Upon the other side of the said Library
is the private Gallery of the Pope, looking into the Garden
(3) Belvedere, which is seated upon the side of the Mount
Vatican, where Pope Innocent the eight built part of the
Pallace, and called it Belvedere, of the faire prospect of
all Rome subject to the eye. And Pope Julius the second
placed in this Garden many very faire statuaes, namely,
280

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

to lay them up at their returne. And neere this place
lie the meadowes, given by the people of Rome to Mucius
Scavola, for his valiant behaviour with King Porsena.
Hence turning to the left hand, we came to the (III)
Iland of Tyber, in which the Church of S. Bartholmew
(of old consecrated to /Esculapius) is adorned with 4
stately pillars of porphry, it gives the title to a Cardinall.
At the foot of the bridge (XXXIX) S. Maria, as you
Te ouse of come out of the Iland and enter into Rome, is the ruined
PotltiusPilatc. house of Pontius Pilate, and opposite to that is the most
ancient Church consecrated to the Moone, and upon the
other side another to the Sunne. Here also is the Theater
of Marcellus, and the porch of Mercury.
Te mouth Not farre thence is a marble head, called Bocca della
of Truth. verita, that is, the mouth of truth, of a woman (as I
remember) falsifying her oath, and bewraied thereby; but
others say it is the Idoll of Rhea. Here also is the Church
of Saint Mary, called the Greeke Schoole, in which Saint
Augustine is said to have taught, but it is shut up. At
the foot of Mount Aventine, (where the Jewes use to
fish) if you looke backe, you shall see the ruines of the
old bridge Sublicius (XLI.) Thence going to the gate
of Saint Paul, among vines, you shall see the ruines of
one hundred and forty garners for come, built of old
by the Romans. In the pleasant meadow wherein the
(XXXIIII) mount Testaceus lies, the Romans were wont
of old to keepe their Olimpike games. The sepulcher
7"he sepulcher of (6) Caius Cestius is most ancient, rising in a pyramis,
of Caius and the inscription shewes it was built in three hundred
Cestius. and thirty daies, which the common sort falsly thinkes
to be the Monument of Romulus. This monument of
stone is compassed with wals, and it hath an inscription
in great letters, but raced out. Some also thinke that
it is the monument of Publius Sestius. From the gate
of Saint Paul we returned into the City, and under the
Church of Saint Gregory, where Laundresses continually
wash, they say that of old the (7) Circus Maximus, (or
greatest Theater) did lie betweene the Mount Palatine
.084

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

gate of this Church they shev a place where the whores
keepe a feast upon the twenty of August, and there of
old was the Temple of Venus. The Theater of bricke
which is in this Church, they say was built by Statilius
Taurus. Hence returning into the City, we passed by
a place, where of old was a monument called Trofei
di Mario, erected to Caius Marius, triumphing upon
Jugurtha and the Cymbri, and they say that the ruines
thereof were admirable, but now it is all defaced. Neere
the staires of the Capitoll, they shev a ruinous heape,
which some say, was this monument of Marius. Passing
/1 Triumphall towards the Capitoll, we did see a Triumphall Arch erected
/lrch. to Galienus, which of the Church adjoining is called the
Arch of Saint Vito, and it is little perished with age.
Concerning the Churches lying from the Capitoll to
the south parts of Rome : The Church of Saint Anastatia,
that of Saint Mary In portico (of old dedicated by the
Heathens to Pudicitia), that of Saint John, that of Saint
Paul upon mount Celius, that of Saint Mary In Dominica,
that of Saint Sistus, that of Saint Sabina upon Mount
Aventine (in which they shew a stone cast by the Divell
at the head of Saint Dominicke, and broken by miracle,)
that of Saint Prisca (of old dedicated to Hercules) that
of Saint Balbina upon Mount Aventine, that of Saint
John at the gate Latina (where it is said Domitian cast
Saint John into boyling oyle, but he escaped without
hurt), that of Saint Mary in Via, without the gate of
Saint Paul, towards Ostia, all these Churches give titles
to Cardinals. Neere the Church of Saint Alexius, is a
/lpalme tree. palme tree, whereof I remember not to have seene any
other at Rome. In the Church of Saint Sava the Abbot,
neere the other upon Mount Aventine, be the sepulchers
of the Emperours Vespasian and Titus his son, of white
marble, and the Altar hath two pillars of porphery.
The third day we began our view of Rome, at the
pillar of the Emperor Trajan, erected to him making
warre against the Parthians, vhich he never saw, dying
in his returne. It is seated in a little market place, and
z86

COMMENTS UPON ROME

the City, our guide shewed us a place, where the house
of Ovid did stand. Concerning the Churches lying about
the Mount Capitoline; that of Saint Mary In Acquiro,
seated in the market place vulgarly piazza Crapanella,
gives the title of a Cardinall. In the same market place
is the monastery and Church of the Jesuites. The Church
of Saint Mauro hath a little Obeliske erected. That of
Saint Eustace gives the title to a Cardinall. Neere it
lies the Church of Saint Lewis proper to the French, (for
all Kingdomes and Provinces have their peculiar Churches
at Rome.) The Church of Saint Apollinaris, and that
of Saint Thomas In parione, and that of Saint Laurence
In Damaso and that of Saint Angelo In piscaria (which
of old was consecrated to Juno) and that of Saint Nicholas
In Carcere, doe all give the titles of Cardinals. The
Church and Hospitall called Saint Mary del' Anima, is
proper to the Dutch Nation. The Church and Hospitall
of Saint Thomas, vulgarly di S. Tomaso, is built for the
English, and is seated neere the (25) Pallace of Farnesi.
The fourth day we began the view of Rome at the
Market-place, called (6) la piazza di Fiori, lying in the
way from the Iland of Tyber, as you goe to the Bridge
of S. Angelo. Here was the house of the harlot Flora,
who made the people of Rome her heire, whereupon the
Romans to cover her shame, made her the goddesse of
flowers, and yeerely kept her birth day upon the third of
April, of which feast I shal speak after. This Market-
place is seated in the most inhabited place of Rome, among
all the chiefe shops of Merchants. And therein the family
of Orsini have a Pallace, and neere the same was the
Theater of Pompey, & his court or publike house, pulled
down because Cesar was therin killed. And from this
Market place towards the Iland of Tyber, lyes the streete
of the Jewes. In the way from the Church of the Trinitie,
to the Mount Qirinalis, vulgarly called (i7) Monte
Cavallo, were the famous Gardens of Salustius, and neere
that Church was the Naumachia (that is the place to
represent Navall fights) called of Augustus. Neere to
M, I 289 T

The Enlish
Church.

The thiefe
hop of
merthantt.

[I. ii. z 36.]

Monasteries
of I#'omen.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the Church Saint Rocco, lies the (8) Sepulcher of
Augu.stus called Mausoleum, the ruines whereof yet
remame. He built it for himselfe and other Emperours,
of a round forme, and adorned it with stones of Marble
and Porphery, and like pillers and Obeliskes, placing his
owne statua of brasse upon the top, so as they daily d!g
up goodly Images out of the Cave and Garden neere at.
The Pinacle of this Monument Pope Sixtus the fifth
removed to the Church Saint Marie Maggiore, and this
monument with the Grove planted about it, reached from
the Church Saint Rocco, to Saint Marie delpopolo. Neere
to the Gate (IIII) del Popolo lies the said Church of that
name, under the Altar whereof the bones of Nero were
laid, which, they say, were kept by spirits, till Pope Pascall
by revelation from the blessed Virgin had warning to cast
the bones into Tiber. W'hensoever the Plague is in
Rome, this Church is made one of the seven in the place
of Saint Sebastian, with all the indulgences to it belonging,
and it alwaies carries that title. Heere bee two faire
Sepulchers, whereof one is for a Chauncelor of Millan,
the other for Pope Sixtus the fifth sisters sonne, both
the worke of Andrew Sansovine. The yard of this
Church hath an Obeliske, almost as faire as that neere
Saint John Lateran, which Pope Sixtus the fifth also
erected. Concerning the Churches from this Gate del
popolo, to the (XXII) Mount Capitolino, the Church of
Saint Laurence in Lucinia, that of Saint Silvester, that
of the holy Apostles, that of Saint Marcello, and that
of Saint Marke, doe all give titles to Cardinals. Neere
the Church Saint Silvester is the Monastery delle Con-
vertite, that is, of Harlots repenting, and becom.ming
Nunnes. The Church S. Mary de Rione della plgna,
is a Monastery di Sante Donne miserabili, that is, of holy
miserable women, and neere that is another Monastery
delle map Maritate, that is, of women unfortunately
married and left in want by their husbands. The foresaid
Gate del popolo, was repaired and beautified by Pope
Plus the fourth. Neere it lies the most sweete Vineyard
290

COMMENTS UPON ROME

of Pope Julius the third, and his pleasant Fountaine,
casting up water two elles high. Not farre thence is a
triumphal Arch erected to Domitian, vulgarly called
Portogallo. From this gate Del popolo, towards the (V)
gate Pinciana, and neere the (x7) Church della Trinita,
we did see the Pallace of the Florentine Cardinall de The Pallace
Medicis (who from a Cardinal became the Duke of of t,e
Cardinall
Florence by right of succession). And this Pallace was
de Medicis.
rich & stately, the staires winding so artificially, as it was
a beautiful sight to look in a perpendicular line from the
top to the foot, and upon the staires was a faire statua
of Apollo. Hence there was a Gallery open on the sides
towards the Garden, full of beautifull Images, of Lions,
a shee-Wolfe, a Ramme, all of white Marble, with other
Images, and very faire pillars. And the first Garden had
onely flowers ; the second in the upper part, had a sweete
Grove, and the lower part was full of fruit trees. There
was a Fountaine with a brasen Image of Mercurie upon
it. Upon a Mount called Pernasso, were many Images
of white Marble, of Pegasus, of the Muses, and one of
Cleopatra, fairer then that I saw in the Popes Garden,
with two Images of Cerberus, and another monster.
There were two large Cesternes of Porphery. And in
a Chamber were the Images, of a Satyr, a Nimph, and
a Gryphon. Lastly, in the Grove were staires paved with
carved Marble, with figures of fishes, and there was a
most faire statua of Europa sitting upon a Bulles backe.
The outside of the Grove was all of Firre trees, which 4 Gro,e of
are greene in winter, but the inside had most pleasant Firre Trees.
walkes among rowes of many other kindes of trees. In
this Grove was a most sweete Arbour, having foure roofes,
and as it were chambers, one above the other, the first
whereof is twentie staires from the ground, whence lay
a most large and most faire Gallery of stone, under which
was a most pleasant solitarie walke, betweene two walles,
all set with Orange trees, and like fruit.
The large way leading to the Cities Gate Pia, was
paved by Pope Pius the fourth, and hath on each side
29I

AoDo
594-

Car'allo.

[I. ii. i37. ]
The Pal/ace
of Nero.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

a pleasant walke, and is also called Pia of the same Pope,
as the (VII) Gate is which bee built. Betweene this Gate
and the next of (VIII) Saint Laurence was of old a large
Park, in which the people of Rome kept beasts to be
hunted. Hence we went towards the Mount Q_.uirinalis,
vulgarly (XXVIII) Monte Cavallo, and under the most
pleasant Vineyard of the Cardinall of Ferraria, were many
Caves and old ruines, and there is a field, where in honour
of (I6) Flora (as I said formerly describing that Market-
place) the harlots of Rome kept a yeerely feast, and
dwelling in the foresaid Caves, used to runne from thence
naked into this field, with unspeakable libertie of speech
and gesture.
From hence passing a little lane, we ascended to
(XXVIII) Monte Cavallo which is so called of two Horses
of Marble set there, which they write to have been given
to Nero by Mithridates King of Armenia, the one wrought
by Phydias, the other by Praxitiles. The common people
holdes one of them for Bucephalus, and thinkes that
Alexander holdes his bridle, and that they were wrought
by the foresaid engravers in emulation one of the other.
But the farre different age of Alexander, and the said
engravers makes this opinion unprobable. Two men are
ingraven, who holde the bridles of the horses, as if they
should leade them, and some thinke that they were made
for two horses of Diomedes, which did eate roans flesh,
and were tamed by Hercules. The Pallace of Nero was
neere this Mount, and from thence they shew some ruines
thereof. This Pallace (as histories doe witnesse) did reach
from Mount Celius to Mount Palatine, and to the furthest
part of Mount Esquiline, and it was compassed with a
lake, having within the circuit thereof, Meadowes, Vine-
yards, Woods, and Parkes, and all the house was guilded,
and thereupon was called golden ; it shined with Ivory,
and pretious stones, and the great Hall thereof did move
round like the World, casting out flowers and odors.
From hence Nero saw Rome burnt with joy, and all this
building was burnt in the time of Trajan the Emperour;

292

COMMENTS UPON ROME

and when Nero had finished this house, he said, that he
began then first to dwell like a man. Upon this said
Mountaine of the Horses, the Pope hath a stately Pallace,
which a Cardinall of Ferrara built, and he being dead,
Pope Gregorie the thirteenth seased upon it. The staires
are very faire, each having his pillar, and the ascent is
most easie. I think a fairer Gallerie can hardly be seene,
being one hundred and twentie walking paces long.
There is a Chamber wherin Pope Sixtus the fifth died.
A second wherein Ambassadours are heard. A third in
which Cardinals are chosen. The Popes study is very
pleasant, and so is the Garden, having many Fountaines, A pleasan
Groves, Labyrinthes, a Rocke artificially distilling water, Garden.
and many most sweet Arbours. Moreover, on this
Mount is the most faire Fountaine of Pope Sixtus the
fifth, called the Happie; for hither is the water brought
from the stately Conduit without the Gate Maggiore,
in the way (IX) Pramestina, reaching many miles, which
was built by Pope Sixtus the fifth, with Imperiall magnifi-
cence, in the yeere 158 7. And this Fountaine casteth
out waters from the mouthes of route Lions of white
Marble. Likewise upon the same is the Image of Moses,
striking the Rocke with his Rod; and there be two other
mouthes lower to cast out water, and it is all engraven
with the said historie of Moses.
Descending from this Mount, we did see in a private .4, 0re of
Gentlemans house an Horse of brasse, esteemed at twenty brass wort
five thousand pounds sterling, which Henrie the second 25,000. li.
had placed at Paris (as they said), if death had not pre-
vented him. Hence towards the East we went forward
towards the Bathes of Dioclesian, and by the way at the
foote of the Mount of the Horses, we did see the Bathes
of Constantine. A man cannot sufficiently wonder at the
ruines of Dioclesians Baths, by which it seemes they were
of incredible greatnesse; and they report, that this
Emperour compelled many thousands of Christians to
worke upon this building for many yeeres. Under the
earth are gates and divers passages of unknowne extent.
293

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

promise, and being free from Englishmens company, and
having two honest Dutch Gentlemen for my consorts,
both borne in the Palatinate of Rheine, where they
professe the same religion as in England, I did with more
security set my selfe freely to satisfie my curiosity in the
view of Rome.
After being desirous to see the mouth of Tyber, where
it fals into the sea, I went out of the gate of Saint Paul,
and having the narrow bed of Tyber on my right hand,
passed twelve miles to Ostia, through fruitfull hils of
corne, and a vast wood at my journies end. Here is
a strong Castle seated in Latium, and belonging to the
Popes of Rome, which Pope Martin the fifth built, and
Pope Julius the second did more strongly fortifie, but
nothing remaines of the stately buildings of that City,
but some poore houses. Strabo writes, that King Ancus
Martius first built this City, in a soile to which the River
brought much dirt. It is certaine that of old the ships
did cast Anchor without the Haven of the City, and sent
their goods to Rome in Gallies and Barkes drawne up
by a rope, the Haven being not so deepe to beare them.
The Citizens were free from Tribute, to make them dwell
there, the aire being then (as also at this time) very
unwholsome. Now the Tyber seemes to end here in a
Lake, and the waters runne in little channels under the
The Haven paved high waies. The Haven of Trajan is a mile and
of Trajan. a halfe from the Towne, being broad enough, but so
barred with sand and like matter, as no ships can come
to it; and onely small Barkes sometimes passe from
Naples and neere places to Rome, and that very seldome.
The foresaid Haven was first built by Claudius, then
repaired by Trajan, and called of his name, of which
Suetonius writes thus in the life of Claudius; He made
the Haven of Hostia, drawing an arme on the right and
left side, and making a barre at the entery, where it was
deepe, which barre, that he might make more stable, by
Art, he sunke the ship wherein the great Obeliske was
brought from /Egypt, and upon piles heaped up, placed
302

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

The way
to Sienna.

walking in the fields, I expected his returne at the gate,
the Students telling me that he would presently come
backe, which falling out as they said; I followed him
into the Colledge (being attired like an Italian, and carefull
not to use any strange gestures; yea, forbearing to view
the Colledge, or to looke upon any man fully, lest I should
Bellerminethe draw his eyes upon me). Thus I came into Bellermines
Calnpion of chamber, that I might see this man so famous for his
the Popes. learning, and so great a Champion of the Popes: who
seemed to me not above forty yeeres old, being leane
of body, and something low of stature, with a long visage
and a little sharpe beard uppon the chin, of a browne
colour, and a countenance not very grave, and for his
middle age, wanting the authority of grey heires. Being
come into his chamber, and having made profession of
my great respect to him, I told him that I was a French
man, and came to Rome for performance of some religious
vowes, and to see the monuments, especially those which
were living, and among them himselfe most especially,
earnestly intreating, to the end I might from his side
returne better instructed into my Countrey, that he would
admit me at vacant houres to enjoy his grave conversation.
He gently answering, and with gravity not so much
swallowing the praises I gave him, as shewing that my
company should be most pleasing to him, commanded
his Novice, that he should presently bring me in, when
I should come to visit him, and so after some speeches
of curtesie, he dismissed me, who meant nothing lesse
then to come againe to him.
The very same hower at ten in the morning, upon the
Tuesday before .Easter, I came to my consorts in the
Suburbes, and presently we tooke horse after a short
breakefast. The way from Rome to Sienna is thus
vulgarly noted: A Borgetto, sixe miles, a I' Isola, one;
a Bacchano, sixe; a Monterose, five; a Sutri, foure; a
Roncignone, three ; a lago di vigo, one ; a viterbo, seven ;
a Monte fiaschoni, seven; a Bolsena, seven; a San'
Lorenzo, foure ; a Acquapendente, sixe ; a Recorseto a
304

FROM ROME TO SIENNA

his dinner upon reckoning. After dinner we rode through
wilde Mountaines bearing little Corne, twelve miles to
the Brooke Paglia, running under the Castle Redicofani,
and dividing the States of the Pope, and the Duke of
Florence, and we rode further in the State of Florence
foure miles to a Country Inne, (as I thinke called
Scancicricho) where each man paied three paoli and a half
for his supper at an Ordinarie (vulgarly A1 pasto), having
almost nothing but red Herrings and Sallets to supper.
The fourth day in the morning, upon the last day of Aprill
after the new stile, in the yeere x 594, wee rode thirteene
miles to a Countrey Inne, through high Hilles of Corne,
and for the greater part very firtile, where each man paied
seven baochi for his breakefast.
The same day we rode eighteene miles to Sienna,
through most pleasant Hilles, and a firtile Plaine of Corne,
with store of Vines on each side, and many Pallaces of
Gentlemen,. (so they call their houses, built of Free-stone,
wxth a low roofe, and small magnificence), and most
frequent dwellings of husbandmen. We came to Sienna
the Friday before Easter day, and in a publike Inne each
man paied three reali for his Supper.
The next day I went to Fiorenza for money, and rode
through Woods and fruitful Hils to the Castle Poggio
(walled townes being called Castles) and after through
stony Mountaines bearing Corne and Olives, till I came
to the Village Tavernelle, being seventeene miles from
Sienna, where I paied two reali for my dinner upon
reckoning. After dinner I rode fifteene miles to Fiorenza,
through stony little Mountaines, bearing great store of
Olives, Almonds, and Chessenuts, and many Poplar trees,
and towards our journeyes end, store of Cedar trees; and
wee passed by innumerable Pallaces of Gentlemen, and
a most faire Monastery called la Certosa, and a desert
Rocke, upon the top whereof an Heremite dwelt all
alone. This Territorie yeeldes great store of Pine-trees,
the boughes whereof are thicke and round at the top, but
the rest of the tree hath neither boughes nor leaves, and
307

594.

4nno 594-

Sienna.

Fruitful
Mountaincs.

AoDo
x594.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

it yeelds a very great Nut, with very many kernels in
one shell, which are pleasant in taste, and much used here
,4 Dutc in Banquets. By the way I did meete a Dutch Lady,
Lady Friar. with her Gentlewomen, and men-servants all in the habit
of Franciscan Friers, and not onely going on foote, but
also bare-footed, through these stonie waies; and because
they were all (aswell men as women) in Friers weeds,
though I looked on them with some suspicion, yet I knew
not their sexe or qualitie, till upon inquirie at Florence,
I understood that the Dutchesse of Fiorenza (or .Florence)
[I. ii. 144. ] hearing that some women were passed by In Friers
apparrell, and thinking they were Nunnes stolne out of
their Cloisters, did cause them to bee brought backe unto
her, and so understood that upon pennance imposed on
them by their Confessour for the satisfaction of their
sinnes, they were enjoyned to goe in that Friers habit
bare-footed to Rome ; whereupon she dismissed them with
honour.
I forgot to note what I paid for my horse from Sienna
Florence. to Florence, whether we came upon Easter day, and there
I lodged in the Dutch Inne, and paid three reali each
meale. But I did not at this time view the Citie, deferring
it till my returne.
The next morning I tooke my journey to Pisa, that
by often removing, I might shun all question of my
religion, into which they use more strictly to inquire at
this time of the yeere, when they use to observe who
receives not the Sacrament: for howsoever there be lesse
da.nger of the Inquisition in this State, yet the Duke
using not, and scarce being able to protect those that
rashly give open offence, I thought good thus warily to
avoide these snares. I went this journey on foot, meaning
leisurely to see the next Cities, so little distant one from
the other, as they were pleasant journeys on foot, especially
in so pleasant a Countrie. The first day in the morning
I walked ten miles to the Castle Prato, through the
pleasant Valley of the River Arno. This pleasant Castle
(or walled Towne) is of a round forme, having (at the
308

Danger by
religion.

COMMENTS UPON PISTOIA

very enterance) a large Market place, wherein stands a
faire Cathedrall Church, adorned with many stones of
marble: and here I paied twelve creitzers for my dinner.
In the afternoone I walked ten Italian short miles to
the City Pistoia, through a most pleasant plaine called pistoia.
the Valley of Arno, tilled after the manner of Lombardy,
bearing Corne and Wine in the same field, all the
Furrowes being planted with Elmes, upon which the
Vines grow. This Citie is seated in a Plaine, and
compassed with Mountaines, which on other sides are
somewhat distant, but on the North-side hang over the
same, and here (as likewise at Prato and Florence! the
streetes are paved with broad free stone, most ease to
walke upon. And the Cathedrall Church is stately built,
and the pavement is of Marble curiously wrought, like
the Church of Sienna. The Citie hath the name (in the Te citie
Latin tongue, as also in the Italian) of a plague which
invaded the Citie, when the Troopes of the Rebell Catilina plagte.
being overcome, fled thither, whose posteritie being seated
there, hath nourished a greater plague by perpetual
factions, shewing thereby of what race they came.
Desiderius King of Lombardy compassed the Citie with
a wall. After the Florentines about the yeere
subdued this chiefe Citie of Hetruria, under whose
governement, first the faction of the Neri and the Bianchi
brake out, and defiled the Citie with murthers, which
being extinct, the faction of the Cancellieri and the
Panzadici began, which lasted almost to our time, with
incredible hatred and murther. But of late times, the
Duke of Florence published an Edict, that upon great
penaltie, no man should weare any Roses, or other signes
of faction, which till that time they did beare upon the
parts of their body, where they might most easily be
seene. From hence I walked three miles through little
Mountaines to Saravaie, and two miles to Povanni, where
the Plaine begins to open ; and three miles to the Brooke
Pescha, where I paied a Creitzer for my passage by boate,
and five miles to Borgo nuovo, through Mountaines full
3o9

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

of Chess-nuts and other nut trees, and eight miles in
the territorie of Lucca, through a large plaine, to a solitarie
Inne, called La Moretta. By the way I paid (upon
reckoning) one reale and a halle for my breakefast, and in
this Inne I lodged, and paied (at an ordinarie) three reali
for my Supper.
/:ucca. The next morning I walked one mile to Lucca; the
Emperour Charles the fourth made this Citie free, which
hath kept the Libertie to this day, governed by Senators,
but lives in parpetuall feare of practises against this
libertie from the great Duke of Florence. It is seated
in a plaine, and strongly fortified, and compassed with
Mountaines on all sides, but somewhat distant, and onely
lies open on the side towards Pistoia, being two miles
in compasse, and having about thirtie foure thousand
Inhabitants. The streetes are narrow, and paved with
broad free stone, most easie to walke upon. The Pallaces
of the chiefe Gentlemen are built of free stone, with a
low roofe after the Italian fashion, and they have many
[I. ii. 45.] pleasant Gardens within the walles. In the corner towards
North-west by North is a strong castle, neere which lies
the Cathedrall Church, stately paved with Marble, but
very darke, as most of the Papists Churches are built,
either because they think darkenesse increaseth Religion,
or to make it an excuse for their burning candles in the
day.. There also lies the Senate house; and al the Innes
are m one street, that they may more easily look into
strangers, for any practise against their liberty ; for which
cause no man may weare any weapons in the city_, nor
so much as a knife, except the point be blunt. These
8ilkefirst Citizens first spread through Italy the Art of making
made in silke, and weaving it into clothes, and by this traficke they
Lucca. have very rich families. Here I paid (at an Ordinarie)
6 reali for my dinner and supper. From Lucca I walked
5 miles through a pleasant Plaine, to the Mountaine of
Pisa, which divides the Territories of those two Cities,
and it is very high & stoney, yet is full of Rosemary,
Time, and sweet smelling hearbs, & the passage of it is

COMMENTS UPON PISA ,.D.
x594-

2 miles long. After I went 3 miles through fenny
ground, often overflowed with the River Arno, and came
to Pisa. Arno is a little River falling from the Apenine Pim.
Mountaines neere Florence, through which City it runs,
and so passeth through a most pleasant and fruitful Plaine
to Pisa, through which Citie it also runs; and by reason
of the narrow bed, and the neere Mountaine of Pisa, is
subject to overflow upon any great raine, so as with great
hurt it drowneth the fields of Pisa, and those that lie from
thence to the Sea. Pisa of old famous for navigation,
was made free by the Emperor Charles the fourth, about
the yeere 1369. But long after it was the second time
sold to the Florentines by Galeacius Vicount of Millan.
Then they practised with the French to recover their
liberty, when Charles the eight passed that way to conquer
Naples, til they were the third time subdued by the
Florentines; since which time the family of Medici
invaded the liberty of Florence, together with that of
Pisa, under the title of Great Duke of Florence, which
they hold to this day. But when Pisa was thus brought
in subjection to Florence, many of the chiefe Citizens
chose rather to live at Venice, and other places, in per-
petual banishment with their posterity, then to be subject
to the Florentines. Pisa was of old called Alpheo, of
the builders comming from their dwellings neere Alpheus
a River in Greece. The brook Arno runs from the East
to the west through Pisa, seated in a Plaine, and towards
the North-West by North is a Gate, and a most faire
Cathedral Church, paved with Marble curiously wrought,
& having a most faire pulpit. In which Church, neere Cathedral
the high Alter, is the Sepulcher of the Emperor Henrie Church.
the seventh, whom Platina and many German Writers
affirme, to have been poisoned by a wicked Monk of the
Order of the Predicants, at the Communion of our blessed
Lords Supper. Upon this monument these words are
written in Latin.
In this tombe not to be dispised, are contained the bones
of Henry the seventh, Count of Luceburg, and after
3IX

Pisa subject to
Florence.

1594.

The lenn;ng
steeple.

The Cavo
Santo.

[I. ii. 46.]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the seventh Emperour of that name, which the second
yeere after his death; namely I3I 5. the twenty five
day of the Sextiles, &c. were brought to Pisa, and with
great honour of funerall laid in this Church, where they
remaine to this day.
The steeple is neere the Church but severed from it, which
seemes to threaten the falling from the top to the bottome,
but that is done by the great Art of the workemen,
deceiving the eye ; for it is as strongly built as the Church.
I ascended the same by two hundred and forty staires of
marble, in which ascent it hath seven galleries on the
out side. Not farre thence is a yard used for common
buriall, called the holy field, vulgarly Campo Santo. In
which the Emperour Fredericke Barbarossa, returning
from Hierusalem, did lay great store of that earth, which
he had used for ballast of his ships; and they say, that
dead bodies laid there, doe consume in a most short time.
This yard is compassed with a building all of Marble,
which lies open like a Cloyster, (we call it a tetras) and
the same is covered with lead very sumptiously, having
in bredth 56 pillars, and in length i89. each distant from
the other thirteene walking paces. So as (in my opinion)
this yard for buriall is much more stately, then that most
faire yard for the same purpose, which I formerly discribed
at Leipzig in Germany, called in Dutch Gotsaker. In
this place is a sepulcher stately built of marble of divers
colors, with this inscription in Latin;
Pope Gregory the thirteenth, borne at Bologna, com-
manded this to be made, to the most worthy civill
Lawyer John Buon' Campagno, his brother by the
Fathers side, deceased in the yeere 1544-. at Pisa, where
he was chiefe Professour of that Law.
Here I did see another sepulcher with this inscription
in Latin; To Mathew Curtius Physitian. Duke Cosmo
made this at his owne charge, in the yeere i544.
At the West corner of the City, is the Armory, vulgarly
called L' Arsenalo, where they build and keepe the Dukes

312

COMMENTS UPON LEGHORN

place followed their fortune; till the Pisans againe being
subdued by the Florentines in the yeere x 509 . this place
also returned to their subjection. It is said to have the
name of Ligornus sonne to Phaeton. Cosmo de Medicis,
Duke of Florence, began to fortifie againe this ancient
Towne, and to measure out the circuit and the streetes
thereof. And Duke Francis tooke upon him to goe
forward with this unperfected worke; and he being dead,
Duke Ferdinand his brother, at that time living, brought
it to the forme of a most strong Fort, and faire City.
And at this time the streetes began to be replenished with
houses, for the Duke made this place as it were a sanctuary
to offenders, upon whom he used to impose for punish-
ment, either to dwell there for ever, or at least for some
yeeres, and to adde one or more houses to the building:
so as the City was now faire and populous, but it was
filled with Citizens guilty of crimes, and of no civill
conversation. My selfe hearing that they were such men,
perhaps out of prejudicate opinion, did thinke their lookes
barbarous, which made me looke more warily to my selfe,
and to those things I had with me. The City is seated
in a plaine, somewhat longer from the North to the South,
then it is broad from the East to the West ; and the sea
lies upon it, partly on the North, and partly on the South,
and altogether on the West side. And it hath one Tower
on the North side and another one the South side, reaching
into the sea, out of which they hang lights by night to
direct saylers: and betweene these Towers, full on the
West side, there is a Haven for great ships further out
into the sea, and also neere the City and compassed with
the wals thereof, are two Havens for Gallies and small
Barkes. The River Arno running from the East to the
West, passeth by the City on the North side, and there
fals into the sea, and at the corner on the North side is
a strong Fort. Here I paid (upon reckoning) two giulii
for my supper, and as much next day for my dinner, and
returning to Pisa by water, I paid seven creitzers for my
passage.
3x5

Te
rebuilding of
Ligorno.

The
scituation of
the City.

COMMENTS UPON FLORENCE

I594-

but of very broad and faire free stone. The houses after
the manner of Italy, are built with a low roofe, excepting
the Pallaces, which are stately built of free stone engraven.
The windowes (as in all the Cities of Italy excepting
Venice alone) are not glased, but either lie altogether
open, to take aire, or are covered with oyled paper and
linnen cloth. The streetes are most broad, and have an
open aire. In discribing the Citie, I will begin without
the walles. And first towards the North and East, it [I. ii. 148.]
is compassed with pleasant Hills, planted with excellent
fruit trees, and lying in the forme of an Amphitheater,
and behind them the high Mountaines of the Apenine,
somewhat removed, are in stead of strong walles to the
Citie. Also on the South side, it hath like Hilles, and
distant Mountaines, but towards the West it lies open
to the most pleasant Valy of Arno, which Valy continueth
as farre as Pisa, and to the sea-side. On all sides without Ma,ly
the walles, Pallaces of Gentlemen are most frequent, and Pal/aces
houses of Citizens, not distant above three or foure closes Houses.
one from the other, whereupon the Emperour Charles the
fifth beholding the Citie and the Countrey from a high
steeple, affirmed, that Florence was the greatest Citie in
the whole world ; and when hee perceived that the standers
by were doubtfull of his meaning, he added, that in good
earnest he reputed all the Pallaces without the walles,
compassed with Hilles and Mountaines as with walles,
to bee within the circuit of the Citie. It is seated (as
it were) in the Center of Italy, betweene the aire of
Arezzo, producing quick wits (where Peter Aretine the Temperature
Poet was borne, of a sharp wit, though hee abused it g the lire.
wantonly), and the aire of Pisa lesse pure, and yeelding
men of str.ong memory, so as it hath had by this tempera-
ture of alre, many Citizens aswell sharpe to learne
sciences, as strong to retaine them. The River Arno
running from East to West divides the Citie, but into
unequall parts, the farre greater part lying on the North-
side, and the lesse on the South-side; and the bridge
.to passe from one to the other, is almost in the very

COMMENTS UPON FLORENCE

get their friends consent for mariage, and at last being
impatient of delay, resolved with what danger soever to
meet together. But it happened, that the yong man being
to ascend into the Virgins Chamber by a ladder, was
surprised, who to save the reputation of the Virgin,
confessed, that he came to rob the house, whereupon he
was condemned to die, and being led to execution by the
house where the Virgin dwelt, she laying aside all shame,
came running out, with her loose haire about her eares,
and embracing him, confessed the truth publikly, with
which accident both their parents were so moved, as laying
aside all former malice, they contracted affinity, and the
young man delivered from the bonds of the hangman,
was tied to her in the sweet bond of marriage. And of
this wonderfull event, the Florentines thought good to
keepe this memorie for posteritie. The Duke hath two
Pallaces within the City, wherof one is called Pallazzo
di Pitti, seated in this part of the City, which a Gentleman
of Florence by name Lucca della Casa de Pitti, began
to build, but falling into poverty, and not able to finish
it, was forced to sel the same to Cosmo de Medicis, being
Great Duke of Florence, and shortly after convicted of
treason, was beheaded. This is the most stately Pallace
in the Citie, in the Garden whereof, called Belveder, are
many most sweete shades among pleasant Groves, together
with a pleasant Cave and Fountaine. They say, that one
Mule did bring all the matter to this building, in memorie
whereof, these verses are written upon the picture of the
said Mule :
Lecticam, lapides, & marmora, ligna, Columnas
Vexit, conduxit, traxit, & ista tulit.
The Litter, these stones, marbles, pillers, wood,
Did carry, leade, draw, beare, this Mule so good.
The outward side of the Pallace is of Free-stone engraven,
and the Ornaments within are Regall. Betweene the
two Chambers, wherein the Duke and the Dutchesse lie
apart, is a very faire Gallery, and in the chamber of the
39

I 594.

1 worthie
paire.

The Pallazzo
di Pitti.

[I. ii. 49-]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Dutchesse, is a second bed most like her owne for the
Duke when he pleaseth to lie there, and there is a Table
wrought with silver and pretious stones, valued at 3000
Crownes. In the dining roome are many faire statuaes,
Thirty and the figure of thirty Cardinals chosen at one time
Cardi,h by Pope Leo the tenth, being of the house of Medici.
Medicis.
In the very Court are two great loadstones. The strong
Fort called Saint Meniato, lies over this Pallace, and
indeede over all the Citie, which was built by Alexander
de Medicis, nephew to Pope Clement the seventh, and
had lately been kept by a Garison of two thousand
Spaniards, as likewise another Fort on the other side of
Arno, built in the time of the free State, was likewise
kept by a Garison of xoo Spaniards: For the Dukes
of Medici advanced to their Dukedome by the Emperor
Charles the fifth, did at first admit these Garisons of
Spaniards under an Italian Captaine, either to shew their
confidence in Spaine, or to fortifie themselves against
the Citizens, whose libertie they had invaded; but Duke
Ferdinand then living (the Families of Citizens being
now extinct or suppressed, who had lived in the free
state, and could not indure subjection) being now con-
firmed in his Dukedome had lately effected, that these
Spaniards should yeeld the Fortes to him, and depart
the Countrey. Upon the North-side of the River Arno,
1 monumrnt and upon the banke thereof, is a monument of a horse
ofa 14orse. buried in the high way, with this inscription in Latin:
The bones of the horse of Charles Capelli Venetian
Ambassador, when the Citie was besieged in the yeere
I533. And these verses were added:
Non ingratus herus, Sonopes memorande, sepulchrum
Hoc tibi pro meritis hec monumenta dedit.
Praise worthy horse of warre thy thankfull Lord
Thee for thy merits doth this Tombe afford.
The Citie hath divers Market-places, x. Mercato Vecchio ;
2. S. Spirito ; 3- Santa Croce ; 4- S. Maria Novella ; 5-
Piazza della Signoria, which is the fairest and largest of

COMMENTS UPON FLORENCE .D.
I594.
all the rest, and therein is the Senators Pallace, and many
stately statuas, one of a virgin taken by force, and of
the ravisher beating her keeper, & treading him under
his feet; another of Hercules, treading Cacus under his
feet (for the Florentines beare Hercules in their great
Seale) ; the third of David, all which are of white Marble ;
the fourth of Perseus, carrying in one hand the head of
Medusa upon his Shield, and treading the bulk of her
body under his feet, curiously wrought in brasse. In
the same Market-place is a most faire Fountaine set round
about with faire statuaes of brasse, and in the midst
thereof, the statuaes of a Giant, and of three horses,
almost covered with water, all wrought in white marble,
do power the waters out of their mouthes into the
Cesterne. In the corner of this market place is the
Senators Pallace, so called, because the Senate was wont
to meete there in time of the free State, but now it is the
Dukes pallace, & the second that he hath within the Citie.
Therein I saw a Cat of the Mountaine, not unlike to a 4 cat oftle
dog, with the head of a black colour, and the back like mountaine.
an hedghog, a light touch wherof gave a very sweet sent
to my gloves. Here they shewed us (as they use to shew
to curious strangers) the Dukes Treasure (as they cal it)
namely, vessels of gold and silver, Roses hallowed by
the Pope (which these Princes hold for rich presents);
many chambers and galleries, having a sweet prospect
upon the Arno, and adorned with pictures and statuaes,
notable for the matter, art, and price ; a most faire looking [L ii. 5o.]
glasse; a Theater for Comedies; one table of Porphery
valued at five hundred Crownes ; another of Jasper stone,
valued at foure hundred Crownes, a table then in the
workmans hands unperfected, the Jewels wherof they
valued at fiftie thousand Crownes, and the workmanship
at twelve thousand Crownes. Moreover, they shewed
us the pictures of the Popes of the house of Medici;
rich swords and hats, and a lather of silver to mount
into the Coach; and many notable antiquities; and
certaine birds of India, with many other beautifull things,
. I 3 X

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

which are buildings of stone, adorned with many carved
Images distilling water, and such are placed in most
parts .of Italy in the marketplaces, open and uncovered:
but in this and like Gardens, these Fountaines are
wrought within little houses, which house is vulgarly
called grotta, that is, Cave (or Den), yet are they not
built under the earth but above in the manner of a Cave.
Tle lower It remaines I should speak of the lower Garden, which
Garden. is much more beautiful then the upper: for at the first
entrance, there is a Pallace of little compasse, but stately
building, being of a round forme, the midst wherof
containeth the great chamber, larger then the other
rooms, which round about the same are little, but
beautifull, and richly furnished for private retreit. From
under all the staires of the Pallace, and the pavements
[I. ii. 53-] round about, with the turning of a cocke, spoutes of
water rise up in great force. For in respect of the heat
of the Country, they take great pleasure to wet the
passengers in this sort. Under the Pallace there is a
Cave, vulgarly called la grotta Maggiore, (which and like
Conduits made as is abovesaid, I will hereafter call
fountaines, because they are so vulgarly called.) In the
said Cave, a head of marble distilleth water; and two
trees by the turning of a cocke shed waters abundantly,
and a little globe is turned about by Cupid, where the
Images of Duckes dabble in the water, and then looke
round about them; and in the middest of a marble table
is an instrument, which with great art and force, driveth
water into any furthest part of the Cave. So many and
so divers are the castings of the water, as the most wary
man cannot escape wetting, where they make sport to
betray all lookers on in that kind. Neere this, and under
the Pallace is a Bath, the wals whereof shine with glister-
ing stones, and therein is a table of Alablaster. Neere
/1 strange this is a cave strongly built, yet by Art so made, as you
Cave. would feare to enter it, lest great stones should fall upon
your head: and here by the turning of a pipe, certaine
images of Nimphes are carried by the water out of the
328

COMMENTS UPON FLORENCE

594-

Cave, and in againe, as if they had life, no water being
seene: and in this Cave seeming ruinous, are the most
curious Images of many beasts that ever I did see. In
the next fountaine, with the turning of a Cocke, the
unseene waters cause a noise like thunder, and presently
a great shower of raine fals. But among all the Caves
or Fountaines under the Pallace, one is most faire and
large, at the one end whereof, upon the turning of a
cocke, by the same motion of water unseene, the Image
of Fame doth loudly sound a Trumpet, while the image
of a Clowne putteth a dish into the water, and taking up
water, presents it to the Image of a Tyger, which
drinketh the same up, and then moves his head, and
lookes round about with his eyes, which is as often
done as they please, who have the skill to order the
Cocke. At the other end of that Cave, is the Image of A,, image
Syrinx with her fingers halle turned into reedes; and sy,.i,,x.
right against that, is the Image of Pan sitting upon a
stoole, with a wreathed pipe m his hand, and Syrinx
beckening to Pan, to play upon the pipe, Pan puts away
his stoole with one hand, then standing on foot, plaies
upon his pipe, and this done, lookes upon his mistresse,
as if he desired thanks or a kisse for his paines: and
then takes his stoole againe, and sits downe with a sad
countenance. I know not that any place in the World
affoords such rare sights in this kind; but lest I shoukl
be tedious, it shall suffice onely to name the other Images
and Caves. As you goe downe from the Pallace, you
shall first see the Cave of _/Eolus, another of Parnassus,
where, with the turning of a cocke, a paire of Organs
doth make sweet musicke; and there is a head which
together with the eyes is moved to and fro by the unseene
water, and there is a pleasant shade with many statuaes
(or Images) curiously carved, and there the Duke doth
many times eat. The third fountaine is called I1 villano,
that is, the Clowne. The fourth la pescaria, that is, the
fish-pond, where a Ducke of India having foure wings,
did swimme in the water. The fifth La lauandara, the

329

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594-

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

brethren excepted, who doe the manuall workes of the
house. They never eate flesh, for such is their rule,
which if they breake, yet they doe it not in the publike
place of eating. The Priest having sung Masse, doth
after it many times bow downe his head, and then falles
prostrate on his face, praying. Each Frier hath foure
cells or chambers, and his private Garden planted with
ttard Fare. fruit trees, and therein a private well. They have no
beds, but sleep upon straw, and eat privately in their
owne Celles, only eating together in the publ!que roomes
on the feast dayes, so as they may easily in private breake
this vow of not eating flesh, if they list. To conclude,
they give lar.ge almes to the poore, and thus by shew of
holines, getting great riches from Lay-mens gift, they
think to deserve heaven, by giving them (as the proverb
is) a pig of their owne sow. The seate of this Monastery
is very pleasant, upon a Hill or little Mountaine. Hence
wee returned to Florence.
Hiring of All the Cities of Italy have many houses wherein
Chambers.
strangers may hire Chambers, called Camere locanti;
and in Florence there be only three or foure publique
Innes, all in one streete for daily passengers, and three
houses like Colledges, called Albergi, for those that make
long stay in the Citie, wherein they may hire Chambers
for ten guilii the month, the host being tied, after the
manner of Italy, besides their Chamber and bed, to
dresse their meate, and finde them linnen. I living after
Charges in this fashion, remember these rates of things bought: for
Florence. a pound of Almons vulgarly una lira di Mandole, one
giulio : a pound of gr.eat grapes dried, and called Susini,
slxe creitzers, two pigeons one giulio, that is eight
creitzers ; two Apricotts a quatrine, a pound of Mutton,
foureteene fifteene or sixteene quatrines; a pound of
Lambe twelve quatrines; two egges five or sixe quat-
rines; a pound of Raisons or lesse grapes dried two
[I. ii. 55-] baelli; and of another kinde, called Passere, sixe baelli;
two Hennes fortie or fiftie sols; two Capons sixtie sols;
two Apples one quatrine, and seven Apples, one baello;
332

COMMENTS UPON FLORENCE

an Orange two quatrines ; two Citrones one baello; a
pound of drie figges seven or tenne quatrines; a pound
of the greatest reasons, or dried Grapes called Sebibi,
twelve quatrines, and the best kinde eighteene quatrines ;
a pound of Rice foureteene or fifteene quatrines; a
vessel, called boccale, of Oyle, twelve creitzer or baelli
(being all one); a pound of butter, containing twelve
ounces, two giulii, each ounce being seven quatrines;
two ounces and a halle of sugar five baelli; an ounce of
Nutmegs sixe baelli; a pound of Walnuts twelve
quatrines; two little fresh cheeses, called Recotti,
thirteene quatrines; a fit proportion of any herbe for
sallats one quatrine; and little proportions of any spice
one quatrine, which proportion you may increase as you
list. And I being lodged in the Albergo of the golden
keyes, called Alle chiavi d' oro nel' chiasso di Mestier
Bevigliano, paied for my chamber by the month twelve
giulii or reali ; and moreover for salt at table five
Crietzeri or baelli. And in these Albergi, he that desires
to live at an ordinary, without trouble to buy his meate,
vulgarly In dozina, shall pay for each meale two giulii,
and if he stay long, shall pay no more for two meales.
And they were wont to give a stranger his chamber and
diet in these houses for tenne Crownes the moneth, each
Crowne being ten giulii.
I being purposed to live in the State of Florence this
Summer, especially desired to spend my time in learning
the Italian tongue, reputed the most pure in those parts;
to which end I resolved to returne to Sienna, and live
in that University: but because many Dutch and
English Gentlemen lived there, which were of my
acquaintance, and solitarie conversing with the Italians
best fitted my purpose, I rather chose to live at the Castle
S. Casciano, being a pleasant seate, and lying eight miles sa; Cacian.
from Florence, in the way to Sienna. And because I
lived in a publique Inne, and in a great high-way, and
was shortly to passe through the Dutchie of Millan,
subject to the Spaniards, who then had warre with
333

I594.

Roman
Jusce.

Gentleman.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

England, I did, for the avoiding of danger in that
journey, give out that I was a Dutchman: but I staled
here much longer then I purposed, for it happe.ned at
this time, that the Roman Inquisitors pursuing an
English Gentleman, who had escaped their hands at
Rome, did in stead of him cast another English Gentle-
man into prison, who then lay at Sienna, and was not
much unlike him. And howsoever the first Gentleman
escaping, the second was shortly set free, yet this chance
made mee make lesse haste to Sienna; besides that I
had my diet here at an easie rate, spending not above
one Giulio each meale, and yet having such meate as I
most desired, neately dressed, and being diligently
attended: but especially the most pleasing conversation
of a Gentleman dwelling there, called Nicolao della
Rocca, made me most unwilling to leave that Castle,
and the rather because he had made me acquainted with
a learned Kinsman of his Raphaele Columbano a Floren-
tine. And I freely confesse, that the curtesie and mani-
fold vertues of this Gentleman Nicolao della Rocca, then
tooke such impression in me, as I shall not onely so long
as I live dearely love him, and his memory, but bee glad
to doe any pleasure to his least friend, or any Florentine,
aswell for their generall good desert, as for his sake
more specially. He was my companion in viewing the
pleasures of this Territory, where among other things I
did see many delightfull Groves (vulgarly Boschetti),
Nets to catch birds (Ragnaii), Gardens for .that purpose
(Uccellari), al belonging to the Noble Florentine Families
of Buondelmonte, and Guicciardini, having Pallaces
neere adjoyning (of which sports I shall more largely
speake in the due place, treating of the Italian exercises.)
And to make the delights of my stay in this place more
particularly justified, and to explane some events therein
mentioned, I will adde two Epistles, which I then writ of
this subject, the first from this place, the second from
Florence, after I was departed from this Castle, and these
being written in Italian, I will also turne into English.
334

LETTER TO AN ENGLISHMAN

594-

All' Illre. Sigr. I1 Sigr. T. H. Nobile Inghlese It. ii. 56.]
mio ossmo. A Pisa in Casa di Messier T. A.

M Andato ch' io hebbi le meie lettere a la vulta di
vos' Signoria, stetti di lane fin' hora sempre in su
1' occhi & 1' orecchie (non senza rincrescimento della tar-
danza) badando le suoe. Qgeste benedette lettere tanto
badate & hormai capitate, spieghai con tanta furia, non
che fretta, che piu non hebbe mai 1' affamato di mettersi
a tavola. E lodatosia Iddio, poi che s' e indugiato un'
pez.zo, finalmente il parto s' e fatto maschio, che tanti &
cos1 varii sono i soggetti proposti da lei, che paiano
rechiedere risposta distesa. Onde io che son' scarico d'
ogni impedimento, & sto sfacendato nella villa, come un'
Romito nel deserto, mi stender6 (con sopp.ort.atione per6
delle suoe orecchie) nel rispondere a tutti 1 particolari
d' esse. E prima le dar6 raguaglio piu minutamente del
caso Siennese. Sappia dun que che pochi giorni fa, il
Sig r. G.M. con tutto che se fosse publicamente impacciato
in fatti di Stato, nondimeno per cavarsi il .capriccio,
travestito da Suizzero, & par troppo (come m pareva)
contrafatto, volse arrischiarsi d' andar' da Fiorenza a
Roma. I1 viaggio gli riusci commodamente, per6 non
s' era piu presto tomato a Sienna, & di la (con suoa
buona ventura) senza punto di tardanza messosi in
camino la voltadi Fiorenza, che da I' Inquisitori Romani
so.pgiunse un' mandato al Podest di Sienna di farlo
prgmne. Hora avenne ch' il Sig' G.L. stando a Sienna
& essendo (come sa lei) grandone, d' aere allegro, &
havendo altri contrasegni della suoa barba & cera, fu
preso da i Sbirri, & per 1' Inquisitori messo in prigione.
Dove seppe con tap discretione portarsi, che loro avve-
dutosi d' haverlo pigliato cosi in escambio, gli resero la
liberth, laquale gode stando a Sienna fin' hora. Ma
quel mandato passundo oltre, arriv6 fin' a Fiorenza, dove
il Sig" G.M. per via d' un' amico in Corte (non dico
gia ch' il gran Ducane fosse consapevole) essendone
335

594.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

informato disera in su 1' Ave-Maria, diede subit6 ale
gambe, tenendo la volta di Paduoa, in tal fretta che
pareva proprio volar' di la dell' Apennino senza ale.
Ringratiato sia il cielo che sia fugito a salvamento, che
con tutto che a noi altri Todeschi rileva nulla,, pure anch'
io come un' forestiero, m' attristo & ho vlveri senti-
mento delle disgratie d' altri, che da suoi amici
& dalla patria sono lontani. Non posso tenir le
rim, quando m' imagino gli fieri salti ch' egli fa sopra le
montose scoglie. I contadini devono pensar' ch' egli
vada a la caccia d' i Caprioli, che forse non s' accorgeranno
quante fiate egli rivolge gli occhi sopra le spalle, &
ad ogni passoguata, di puar ache qualche Veltro Rornano
non se gli aventasse a dosso. L' importanza e, ch' egll
non se faccia securo sotto qualche frasca, dove per ogni
picciol' vento che soffia, protr essere tradito: che non
f'ermandosi per strada vil' do salvo, inteso che gli bracchi
Romani per tracciar' in Stato d' i Veneti, poco, di la dell'
Alpi, nulla vagliano. Hora che vada egli a buon'
viaggio, & vi dir6 fuora di burla, ch' io a la prima senti
gran' dispiacere di questa percossa, finche intese le dette
nuove, mi son' rihavuto. Del resto, buon' per loro, che
questo gli sia accaduto nel' Stato Fiorentino, che altra-
mente i Preti 1' arebbin.o fatto un' map scherzo. Tal sia
di questo. Hora per ristorarci, ragionamo un' poco d'
Orlando. E' quanto a la rostra gran' buona lingua
Toscana (respondendovi capo per capo), vedete come non
b melsenza Mosche ne vostra lettra (per gratiosa che sia,)
senza suoe punture & fianchate. Pu6 far il cielo, come
si puo capitar' male per essere frainteso. Ch' io burla
di voi ? Dio non voglia ch' io burla d' amici miei mai
mai mai: Mi rallegro ben' con essi tap volta, & che
volete ch' io faccia poi ? non conoscendo altro soggefto
delle lettre di trattenemento, che Cortigianie O baje. S'
io pensassi che 1' areste scritto da buon' senno, mi verrebbe
talmente la Senapa al naso, che sarei per cozzar' col capo
contra il muro. Ma son' chiarissimo, che conquesta
brigha m' habbitate volsuto dar' la baja, per farmi montar'
336

LETTER TO AN ENGLISHMAN

in bestla contm mi stesso. Dunque vi replico, che mal-
grado vostro mi stupisco ancora d' i vostri Toscanismi,
non ch' io pensi ch' abbiate avanzato Petrarcha Dante,
Boccacio, con quelli altri maestri della' favella volgare,
ma che d' un Novizo siate riuscito un' gran' Dottore,
havendovi fatto gran' profitto senza ch' io me n' avedesse,
si non in quel tratto the me ne deste saggio per le vostre
tanto garbate & gentile lettere. Talmente ch' il torto
e vostro, d' esservi api.gliato alle parole non al senso mio.
Doglietevi poi di vox stesso per quel' disagio ch' il
scrivere nella lingua Toscana vi possa recare, ch' io in
SuP ragionar' ho ca.vato da vastra bocca propria, che
UeSto vi sarebbe taro, & da parte mia spero coglierne
utto, dandovi occasione di segnar' le meie scorrettioni,
& di farmi parte de quei vostri belli passi di Lasco. I1 che
vi suplico far' meco a la libera, & in cito mostrarmi quanto. [I. ii. 57-]
ml vogliate bene. Con questa risposta state cheto, sl
non, f6 giuro d' assassino, che vi loder6 tanto in sup viso,
che vine verrt rossore. Passo inanzi, dove mi motteg-
giate, d' hayer messo 9uel' Oime a bella posta per far
mostra d' eloquenza, & tatte professione d' essere schifo de
lo scriviere per vergogna del vostro rozzo stilo. Buon a
re: Riconosco 1' Ironia. Contentatevi & godetevi nel'
seno senza trionfarvine, ch' io vi cedo volentieri in ogni
fatto d' ingegno, pure the mi sia lecito di parreggiarvi d'
amore. Ma per vindicarmi di vostre sferzate, & accioche
non crediate ch' io cagliassi affatto per vostre braverie
Toscanesche, m' ingregner6 di rivolgere la colpa the m'
imputate in su le spalle vostre. Et penso durarci poca
fatica, poiche voi sopra quella medesima parolina, Oime,
havete fatto un' si bel' discorso, che vi debbano hayer'
una dolce invidia gli valenti Teologi, i quali per6 hanno
il grido, poter' d' ogni poco di soggetto ragionar' dalla
levata infin' al tramontar' del sole. NIi pare poi ch'
andate troppo animosamente a la volta d' i Ciarletani,
non curando di farvi nemice queste gentaccie, a che se si
dia nell' ung.hie senza essere ben' provisto di Copia
verborum, ml racomando, the in quanto al' menar' la
M. I 337 V

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

lingua, non hanno pari. Davanzo la confidenza della
lingua, sciolta, & della prontozza d' ingegno, vi trasporta a
dir' molto male contra la cosa piu garbata che altra che
si sia nel mondo, cioe lettre di trattenemento. Per
levarvi questo errore, succintamente dir6. Le cose che
piu s' adoperano ci devono essere piu care. L' aere che
ci nodrisce, sopra ogni cosa si pregia. I1 pan' & il vino,
senza chi non si puo essere, piu si procacciano, che fasiani,
tordi, O quaglie! Tall sono le lettre sopradette, ch'
in ogni gentil' brigata piu si ragiona di cortesia, d'
Amore, di ciancie, che del piattire, o maneg.giar' il stato.
Et per non fastidirvi con infiniti argomentl; 1' Arte &
1' ingegno del' Oratare, si mostrano nella raritY. & sterilit
della materia che si tratta, come nel' lodar' I' Asino, nel'
dispregiar' le scientie, 6 cose simile. Ora per lettre di
facende, non huomo di si grossa pasta, che non le
spedisca destramente: la narratione del' bisogno, un
Miracomando, & bello finito. Ma quelle altre, se non
siano abellite con 1' inventiono, & quasi lisciate con certe
stravaganzo, riesconofracide & di poca lode al scrittore.
E' vero, ch' i Secretarii, Notaii, & tali gente facendate,
scorticandosi (per modo di dire) ne lo scrivere, &
impazzandone gli cervelli, hanno qualche pretesto di
ragione, a lamentarsi d' i complementi amorevoli. Ma
voi scio perati, stando nelle citt, & che piu importa nelli
studi Toscani, doureste hor mai gridare : vivano le lettre
di trattenemento, piene di parole gratiose. Hora fatte
voi, andate, e si non vi pare ch' io v' habbia ben'
acconciato, pigliatevi spasso dell' eloquenza conta-
dienesca. In su' 1' stringere, mi date delle Signorie per
farmi piacere, & me n' avertite ancora. O questo
M' havete tocco a punto dove mi duole. Et non vedete
ch' in Italia c' ha carestia d' ogni cosa delle Signorie in
fuora, che si danno a buona rata infino a i fachini.
Tanto che si ben' io ne fosse ambitioso, tuttavia per
il soverchio godere, ne restaria svogliato. Datemi
allegramente del voi, senza parlar' in astratto con
1' Idei, che non mi terr6 per affronto, anzi per Arra
338

LETTER TO AN ENGLISHMAN

d' Amore. Io per me, vedendo che le Signorie non vi
sono a grado non vine dar6 mai al' avvenire, si non in
escambio di quelle, che mi mandarete a me, & in quel caso
vile ronder6 con 1' interesse. Q,ganto ale vostre offerte
si calde d' amistk, non mi basra I' animo spieghare, quanto
mi son' ite a sangue. Ma forza m' e respondervi in
presente con I' animo, fino che m' occorre farlo con
1' o.pere: pure in quel mentre mivi i.mpegno, &
miw dono per tutto quel che porta il mlo valsente.
Fatte di me cio che volete, tenetemivi per schiavo,
& si bisognasse,, vendetemi a Turchi: che volete
altro? Direte po che son' baje anche queste, & non
sapete ch' il Poeta sotto parole finte adombra il vero ?
Credetimi, se non volete ch' io usa di furiosi protestationi,
perche in ogni modo voglio che mi si creda. Parlo da
senno, commandatomi a fidanza, dove posio essere buono
per vostro servitio, come io mi servir6 liberamento di
voi, il che vedrete in effetto per la brigha che vi da 1'
inclusa. Et con questo vi bacio le mani, & anche le
guanci (a la venetiana). Da San' Casciano a li vinti
tre di Luglio. 594-
Desso in guisa di fratello,
Fines Morysoni.

All' Illre. Sigr. il Signr. Nicolao Della Rocca mio [I. ii. 58.]
ossmo., a casa suoa in San' Casciano.
C He possano essere confinate nelli studioli d' i
Mercatanti queste facende, (per non dir' peggio);
poi che m' hanno fatto, non dismenticarmi di V.S. (che
questo non farebbono giamai), ma ben' d' indugiar'
troppo a farle fede della mia dolce rimembranza di lei.
Hora essendo io in su la partenza per andar' la volta di
Paduoa, mi son' mosso a scriverle queste poche righe,
con patto che non le manda a 1' Academia della Crusca
per essere censurate, poiche essendo io (per dire) a
Cavallo, forza e, che loro pa.rticipano della confusione &
del' scompiglio in che io ml truovo. E pure possibile
339

A.). FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY
I594.
Letter to as I will make you blush. I goe forward, and come to
T. H. i, your quip, that I began my letters with the word (Alas)
Enlish. to shew my eloquence, and that you were ashamed to
write to mee for your rude stile. Very good, I finde
the Irony: content your selfe that I gladly yeelde to
you in all po.ints of wit, so it may bee lawfull for me to
equall you in love. Yet to revenge this frump, and
that you may not thinke I am daunted with your Toscan
bravery, I will attempt to cast that upon your owne
shoulders, which you impute to me, and this I thinke
to doe with ease, since upon this one little word (Alas)
you have made so faire a discourse, as you may justly
bee envied by our great Divines, who upon the least
subject are held able to discourse from morning till night.
Againe, me thinkes you are somewhat too bold with
the Mountibankes, not caring to make them your
enemies, into whose hands if you fall, without being well
stored with Copia verborum, woe be to you, for you
know they are most skilfull Fencers with the tongue.
Moreover, the confidence of your skill in this tongue,
transports you to speake ill of the most gentle and
delightfull thing in the world, namely, of complement-
ing letters. And to cure you of this errour, I will briefely
remember you. That the things of greatest use, are most
deare unto us. The aire that nourisheth us, is most of
all deare. All men seeke more for bread and wine,
without which they cannot live, then for Phesants,
Black-birds or Q.ailes : such are letters of complement :
for in every gentle company, there is more discourse of
courtesie, love, and toies, then of Law or State matters.
And not to be tedious with many arguments. The art
and wit of the Orator is most shewed in the barrennesse
of the subject whereof he speakes, as in praising the
Asse, dispraising liberall sciences, and in like subjects.
Now for letters of busines, no man is so blockish that
cannot easily dispatch them; when he hath told the
businesse, and bid farewell, all is done. But if letters
of complement bee not beautified with invention, they

344

AoDo
I594.
Lelter to
T.H. in
English.

Letter to
8igtor Della
Rocca in
English.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

your cheekes after the manner of Venice. From Saint
Casciano this 23 of July, i594.
The same, as your brother,
To the noble Sigr. the Sigr. Nicolao della Rocca
my most respected, at his house in Saint
Casciano; or to his hands.
Et this foolish businesse (not to say worse) bee con-
fined to Merchants counting-houses, since it hath
made me, not forget you (which it can never doe,) but to
use too great delay in giving you testimony of my kind
remembrance of you. Now being ready to take horse
for my journey to Paduoa, I thought good to write these
few lines unto you, with condition that you send them
not to be censured in the Academy della Crusca, for my
selfe being thus removing, they must needes participate
the confusion in which I am for the present. Is it
possible that a brave Gentleman like your selfe should
faile of his promise ? I stood looking with what securitie
you would proccede with mee, to take it for an evidence
of your love, and expected many daies (I will say freely
not without some inconvenience) to have the happinesse
to see you ere I went. But since either by your forget-
fulnesse, or other reason best knowne to you, this our
meeting hath not succeeded, and there is no more hope
that wee should meete to reconcile this quarrell, there is
no other remedie but to make our peace at leasure by
exchange of letters. In which dutie (for my part) I will
not faile, so long as I shall stay at Paduoa. And when
I shall bee returned to my Country, I will upon all
occasions, scoure, up that little Toscane language, which
after nay long journey through confusion of tongues
shall be remaining unto me, to make it appeare to you,
that howsoever my language be decreased, yet my heartie
love towards you shall evermore increase. Two things
lie heavie upon me; first, the burthen of your curtesies,
wherwith you have loded me, as you best know, and
346

594-
Letter to
Signor Della
Rocca in
English.

Sienna.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

farrc off, I offer and recommend my selfe to you once for
all. And againe I kisse your hands. From Florence
this tenth of August, x594.
Your affectionate servant, F. M.
I had taken my journey from Saint Casciano to
Florence, that I might receive money, and now upon a
sudden occasion being to returne to Sienna, and from
thence to Padoua, I hired a horse to Sienna, but have
omitted what I paied for the same, and so I returned to
Sienna by the same way I came, namely, to Travernelle
fifteene miles, and to Sienna seventeene, which journey
for others instruction I will particularly set downe.
To Saint Casciano eight miles ; to Colmo foure ; to
Barbarino sixe ; to Puodibonzo sixe ; to Sienna five,
being in all thirtie two miles.
The situation of Sienna is most pleasant, upon a high
hill, and the forme not unlike to an earthen vessel], broad
in the bottom, and narrow at the mouth, which narrow
part lies towards the West, where comming from
Florence, you enter by the Gate Camolea. Neere the
same is a Fort, wherein the great Duke keepes souldiers,
and there without the gate is the Church of Saint Marie,
whether was great concourse of people for devotion.
From hence to the East gate, leading towards Rome,
the streetes lie even and plaine, though the Citie be
seated upon a mount; and in this part toward the East,
the City is broadest, and from this gate a man may see the
Castle Redicofini, tbrty miles distant, upon the confines
of the States of the Pope and the great Duke. Betweene
the said gates, as it were in the center of the City, lies
a most faire Marketplace, in the forme of an Oyster,
and lying hollow as the shell thereof is. And there is
a stately Pallace of the Senate, built when the Citie was
free ; in the front whereof is a statua of mixt mettall,
vulgarly called di bronzo, which seemes to bee apparelled,
having on the head a broad hat and this statua strikes the
houre of the clock. On the South-East side within the
348

COMMENTS UPON SIENNA

upon the backes of Asses. There is a stately Pallace
which Pope Pius the second built, who was a Citizen of
Sienna, of the Family of Picciolomini, and there in the
Mount Olivet the passion of Christ is curiously graven.
It is vulgarly and truely said, that Sienna abounds with
Fountaines, Towers, and faire Weomen: There is no
better place to live in through all Italy, then the state
ot: Florence, and more specially the most sweet City of
Sienna. The Citizens whereof are most curteous, and
they have many publike meetings of the young weomen
& Virgines to dance, where the doore is open for any
Citizen or stranger.
Besides Sienna is commended for the best language, Sienna free
and in the same, and in all the state of Florence, men fi.ons rolderies
live safe from robberies, and from the murthers, which n,g ,usters.
are frequent in Lombardy. Adde that they have delicate
diet, at Florence at a reasonable rate, and in the rest of
the territory at a very cheape rate. Our Hostesse at
Sienna gave us cleane linnen often changed both at bed
and boord, a large chamber, a good bed, a linnen canopy
oft changed, and did provide our meat very cleanly;
for which each man paid n.o more then ten giulii by the
moneth. We bought our owne meat, and I remember
that the price of oyle was twenty five lires the barrell, that
I paid for as much wood as an Asse would beare route
baelli. They have butter, but not so good as in the
valley of Arno, and they sell it twenty two sols the ounce.
The Magistrate sets a price upon every thing to be sold Price, fixed
by the
in the market, neither dare any man sell ought, before r, ag/mwte.
his price be set; and upon the Butchers stals, a bill is
set of the prices at which they must sell their meat, so
as a stranger cannot be deceived. The price of wheat
was 9.o. lires the Moggio, containing forty eight English
peckes, and each lire is a giulio and a halle. The
Toscanes hold Rammes stones fried for a great daintie,
which they call La Granella, and sell it after a giulio the
pound, at Sienna commonly they eat Kids flesh for three
baeli the pound, and a whole Kidde for route giulii and
35 r

FROM SIENNA TO LUCCA

594-

admiring his pleasant wit and quicke invention, did for
the renewing of his memory, erect this monument to him
at his owne charge, and that by fines imposed in the yeere
500. Also his statua without a beard carved in marble,
was set upon his Toome. At Castell Fiorentino I paid
three giulii and a halle for my dinner, and one guilio for
my horse-meate.
After dinner I rode fifteene miles to Ponte Capiano, Charges ly
where every horse of Carriers laded, and of Vetturines the way
hired, paieth two giulii to the Duke, which taxe they
say the Duke imposed, to withdraw Merchants from
trading that way, leading to Lucca. All the way the
fields were tilled on the Lombard fashion, with corne,
and vines growing upon Elmes. Before we had rode
two miles, I passed the River Arno, and paid halle a
giulio for my passage. At Ponte Capiano I paid ten
baeli for my supper upon reckoning, and twelve baeli for
oates for my horse, and eight baeli for hay, straw, and
stable roome. The second day in the morning I
rode through the like way, (having mountaines on
my right hand towards the .North) seven miles in
the state of Florence, and slx miles to Lucca in
that free state. This City I have discribed before; and
here I paid for my dinner upon reckoning two giulii and
a halle. After dinner I hired a horse for two giulii,
and rode through like way, in a fruitfull plaine, five miles
in the state of Lucca, and then five miles more to Pisa,
passing into that state over a high mountaine, and the
rest of the way lying through fenny grounds. This
City I have discribed before, and here I paid for my
supper three giulii or reali.
And because the passage by sea was more dangerous From Pisa to
from Ligorno to Genoa, I hired a horse to Lirigi for one Lirigi.
piastro or silver crowne. The first day I rode twelve
miles, through an open plaine, to Via Regia, and there
passing out of the state of Florence into that of Lucca,
I rode eight miles through a thicke wood, where the
quarters of theeves were newly hung up, who few daies
t . 353 z

I594.
Theeves
Punishment.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

before had robbed and almost killed a Frenchman; and
then entering againe the state of Florence, I rode one
mile to Pietra Santa, and five miles more in the same
state of Florence, and one mile and a halle in the state
of Lucca, and halle a mile to Masso in the state of the
Prince of Masso, who is a Marquesse of the Family of
Malaspina. All this way being through a plaine, tilled
after the manner of I.ombardy, with mountaines of
Chesse-nuts on the right hand, having in all rode this
day twenty eight miles.
In this Citty of Masso the Post-master staled us from
[I. ii. x65.] going any further, pretending to give us new horses,
because those we had were hired of his man at Pisa:
but the true cause was, that we might lodge in his house
that night, to which my companions areed, but my selfe
being desirous to see the quarries ofmarble at Carrara,
tooke of him halle the piastro I had paid at Pisa, and so I
left my horse. Then turning out of the way, I went
on foot three miles to Carara, through wooddy mountaines
abounding with Chesse-nuts. This Towne is subiect to
The Quarries the Prince of Masso, and is famous for the marble, which
ofrnarble at is much preferred before other, as well for the exceeding
Carrara. whitenes of some stones, as for the length of pillars and
tables digged thence, which made it much esteemed at
Rome in the time of the free state, and of the Empire;
and by reason it lies neere the sea, the stones are more
easily convaied to Rome, or els where. In one of the
quarries called Pianella, I did see many stones digged
out, which were as white as snow, and other quarries have
veines of all colours: and they sell as much marble
as an Oxe will draw for twenty sols; but if it be carved
there, the price is greater, according to the workeman-
ship. Each quarry is proper to some private man, and
if any man digge in another mans quarry, they fine him
Beauty of the at twenty crownes, or more according to the dammage.
Menand When I beheld the beauty of Men and Weomen in these
l/Feoraen, parts, which seemed to me greater then in any other part
of Italy, I remembred the Patriarke Jacob, who laid

Noble wines.

[I. ii. , 66.]

Porto Fino.

The Feluca
cast away.

.D. FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY
594-
Saint was the day of Saint Katherine, the Patronesse of
Katherine Marriners, who thinke that no man was ever drowned
the Patronesse that day, but they observe that after that day the winds
of Martinets.
use to grow boisterous. I would willingly have gone
by land, but this Coast being all of high Rockes, there
was no good high way over them, nor commodity for
passage. Yet you cannot imagine a more fruitfull and
pleasant place, then the narrow vallies and hils lying upon
the sea side : onely this coast lying upon the south sunne,
.breathing tier out of Affricke, is subject to great heat
in summer time. This Territory doth so abound with
fruitfull trees and flowers, as the markets are furnished
with them in the very moneth of December. It yeeldeth
noble wines; namely, La vernazza, and in villages called
Cinqueterre, the wine called Le lagrime di Christo, that
is, the teares of Christ, which is so pleasant, as the Italians
say, that a Dutchman tasting it, did greatly lament that
Christ had not wept in his Countrey. At Sestri we had
delicate white bread and excellent wine, (as likewise in
all this journey) and all things at a cheape rate, and each
man spent there nine bolinei.
The third day we sailed ten miles over an arme of the
sea, to Porto Fino, called of old the Haven Delfinus,
now they call it Fino for the goodnes thereof. On the
East side of this Promontory the sea was most calme,
but when we passed to the West side, the winds were
so high, and the waves so troubled, as we had almost
beene cast away, and were by force driven upon the side
of a Rocke, where my consorts trusted to their crucifixes,
vowes, and beades, (upon which they number their
praiers), and my selfe creeping upon hands and knees,
with great difficulty first got to the top of the rocke,
where being in safety, the name of the Haven came in
my mind, which answereth to my Christian name, and
thanking God for my deliverance from this danger, I was
glad that I escaped christening in this Haven of my owne
name. After my other consorts climbed to me, and
thence we went on foot ten miles by the twilight of the
356

594-
The
de, cription of
Genoa,

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

East side. And in the middest of this bank is a (A)
Fort built to defend the Navy. There also are certaine
statuaes (B) erected to the founders of the building. And
in the furthest corner of this haven towards the City, is
an (M) inner haven, compassed with wals, where the
gallies lie under a covered building. Neer that is the
Armory of the City, & the chief gaily in the Port called,
La Reale, the Regal, was about seventy five walking paces
long, and they sayd that foure hundred Rowers belonged
to the same. At the other home of the outward Port
towards the south-west, is the (N) tower Faro upon firme
land, kept by certaine watchmen, who by night hang out
lights to direct the marriners at sea. Neere that lies the
Fort La briglia, that is, the bridle, which the French
King Lewis the twelfth fortified: but the Citizens
expelling the French out of the City, demolished the
same. Thence as you walke towards the City, and before
you enter into the gates, lies (C) the stately Pallace of
Andreetta D' Auria, (or Doria) the building whereof, the
garden, the staires to discend to the sea, the banquetting
house, and divers open galleries, are of Kingly magnifi-
cence. Not farre thence upon the wall is a (D) statua
erected to Andrea d' Auria, late Admirall to the Spanish
Fleete. Then you come to the (P) gate of the City, and
not far thence within the wals, is (P) another gate leading
to the inner Haven, where the Gallies lie. Not far're
thence is the most faire Cathedrall (G) Church, in which
is an ancient monument of mettall, digged out of the
adjoyning valley, which hath an old inscription, shewing
the antiquity of the City. Not farre thence is the (K)
Church Saint Matthew, wherein the Princes of the Family
of d' Auria have long had their monuments. Neere that
lies the (L) Dukes Pallace, not his private Pallace, but
publike, which is kept by a guard of Dutchmen, who
also have the keeping of two of the strongest gates of
the City. In the Court yard of this Pallace, is a foot
statua, armed, and of white marble, erected to the foresaid
Andrea d' Auria, by the Senate with the title of Father
358

1594-

Summer
flowers in
December.

Chaires used
instead of
Coaches.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the sea with all art, and towards the land aswell by nature
as art, there being but one way to come to it, and that
over high and steepe rockes. The streets are narrow,
the Pallaces are stately built of marble, and the other
houses of free stone, five or sixe stories high, and the
windowes are glased, which is rare in Italy. The streetes
are paved with flint, and the houses of the suburbs are
almost as faire as within the City. Corals are fished in
this sea towards Sardinia and Corsica Ilands, not farre
distant, and the ounce thereof is here sold for three lires.
Now in the very moneth of December, the markets were
full of summer flowers, herbes, and fruits, whereof I
shall speake more in the due place. It is proverbially
said of this City ; Montagne senza legni, Mar' senza pesci,
huomini senza fede, donne senza vergogna, Mori bianchi,
Genoa superba: That is, Mountaines without wood,
Sea without fish, Men without faith, Weomen without
shame, white Moores, Genoa the proud. In good earnest,
they report that the Merchants being not bound by
writing, make little accompt to breake their promise, and
the French liberty of the Weomen makes the Italians
judge them without shame, and as Florence is called the
faire for the building, so I thinke Genoa is called the
proud.
The chaires called Seggioli, whereof I spake in the
discription of Naples, are also in use here, in which the
Citizens of both sexes are carried upon two Porters
shoulders, through the streetes lying upon the sides of
hils, the chaires being covered with a curtaine drawne,
and having glasse windowes, so as they may see all men,
and themselves be unseene. Besides, in regard of the
narrow streetes, and the steepe mountaines on all sides,
they use horse litters here in stead of Coaches. The men
in their feasting, dancing, and free conversation, and the
weomen in their apparell, come neerer to the French then
any other Italians. Here I paid one reale by the day
for my chamber, and dressing my meat, which I bought
my selfe, all things being at good rate in the City, as in
360

FROM GENOA TO MILAN

594-

the Countrey. There is such store of fruits, as they give
a citron for a quatrine, and two Oranges for a quatrine;
and to end in a word, my diet here was for the manner
and price not much differing from the same at Pisa.
They accompt ninety miles from Genoa to Milan, which F,'orn Genoa
journey I went on foot, willingly expos!ng my selfe to to Milan
this trouble, partly to spare my purse in the bottome,
partly to passe more safely in this disguise through the
Dutchy of Milan, subject to the Spaniards, who then had
warres with the English. The first day after dinner, I
walked all alone, seven miles to Ponte Decimo, by the
banke of a river betweene stony mountaines, but fre-
quently inhabited. And I paid eight soldi for my supper
on reckoning, and a cavellotto (that is foure bolinei) for
my bed. The second day I went on foot eleven miles,
ascending all the way high mountaines, and tired with
the difficulty of the journey, onely refreshed with the
hope of an easie discent from the mountaines." and being
very hungry by the way, I chanced to meet with a begging
Friar of the Order of Saint Francis, who having victuals
in his bag, .gave me to eat, but would receive no money
for it; saying, it was against their rule to handle any
money. Thence I walked seven miles downe those
mountaines, in the territory of Genoa to Gavidon, and
foure miles more through a plaine and dirty way, in the
Dutchy of Milan to Seravalle, where I paid foure cavellotti &rae,alle.
(that is sixteene bolinei) for my supper and my bed. The
third day in the morning, I walked foureteene miles in
a dirty way to Tortona, where I paid one soldo for tribute Torana.
(as all passengers pay) and seven soldi for my dinner
upon reckoning. Thence I walked after dinner in a dirty
way five miles to Ponte Curon, and further in a way
somewhat fairer five miles to Voghera. All this way in
the Dutchy of Milan, was in a most fruitfull plaine of
corne, with Elmes planted in the furrowes, and vines
growing upon them, and such is the way in all Lombardy,
and to the very City of [Paduoa. At Voghera I paid
three reali for my supper and bed.
36t

Sepulcher of
Bishop
Parker.

[I. ii. 7o.]

1l Barco.

The
Monaster La
Certosa.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

banished out of England for the Catholike Faith by
Q.eene Elizabeth, and made Bishop here by the bounty
of Phillip King of Spaine, did out of his small meanes
erect this Monument to him, &c. In a Cloyster of the
same Church, is a Sepulcher of this Charles Parker Bishop,
deceased in the yeere I59i. There is another Monument
of Luitprandus, King of Lombardy; and another of the
Bishop Severinus Boetius, with this inscription in Latin;
Most skilfull in the Greeke and Latin tongues, who being
Consull, was sent hither into banishment. And with
these verses ;
Ecquid mors rapuit: probitas me vexit ad auras,
Et nunc lama viget maxima, vivit opus.
Hath Death snatcht ought ? my goodnes mounts the Skies,
Great is my fame, my worke lives in mens eyes.
On the East-side of the saide new streete, and towardes
the North, lies the Church of Saint Francis, where is a
monument of Baldus the Civill Lawyer, and they shew
his head of an extraordinarie bignesse. Without the
walles of the Citie on the North side, is a piece of ground
of some twentie miles circuit, compassed with a wall in
many places broken downe, vulgarly called I1 Barco, that
is, the Park which John Galiacius Duke of Milan walled
in to keepe fallow Deare, Hares, and Conies: but at
this day it is divided into Pastures and plowed fieldes.
On the furthest side of this Parke from the City, is
the place where the French King, Francis the first, was
taken prisoner by the Army of the Emperour Charles
the fifth. Not farre thence is the Monastery of the
Carthusians, called la Certosa, where the building of the
Church, the stones of Marble, the engraving, the top
covered with Leade, part of the great Altar of Alablaster
(highly valued), the Sepulcher of John Galiacius first
Duke of Millan, and the revenew of the Church exceeding
three hundred thousand Crownes by the yeere, deserve
admiration. The buildings of the Citie are of bricke,
and seeme to be of great antiquitie. The Emperour
o 364

COMMENTS UPON PAVIA
1594-
Charles the fourth in the yeere I36I , at the instance of
Galiacius the second, gave this Citie the priviledges of
an Universitie. The King of Spaine permits Jewes to
dwell here : but they may not stay in Milan above twentie P,,i,.
foure houres. This Citie was the seate of the Kings of
Lombardy, whose old Castle is to bee seene neere the
Church of Saint Michael. After it was subject to the
Kings of Italy, and the Berengarii being overcome, it
was subject to the Emperour Otho the first, by right of
his wife, and successively to the Emperours, with some
shew of a free Citie, which freedome that they might
more fully attaine, they willingly yeelded themselves in
the yeere 1254 to the. Archb!shop of Ravenna. After
they were subject to usurping Citizens, whom the
Vicounts of Milan expelled, and so joyned this Citie
to their State, which together with the Dukedome of
Milan came to the Spaniards hands, in the time of the
Emperour Charles the fifth. I lodged here in a faire
Inne, but common to the baser sort, the Hostesse whereof
was a Masculine woman, and by the night letting in
Ruffines to drinke, I was not a little affraid of some
violence to bee offered mee in my chamber; whereupon
I firmely resolved with my selfe, to lodge ever after in
the best Inne, and of best fame, especially in Lombardy,
infamous for murthers; and here I paied for my supper
and my bed three reali.
I went on foote from Pavia, going forth at the North-
west Gate twenty miles through rich Pastures, to Milan, Milano.
called la grande, that is, The great, of the large circuit
thereof. The Citie hath the name of Olanus, a Tuscane
Captaine; or the Latin word media lana, that is, Halle
wooll, of those kinde of stuffes made in the Citie. It
is large, populous, and very rich, seated in a Plaine (as
all Lombardy lies) and that most firtile, and by the com-
moditie of a little River brought to the Citie by the
French, and almost compassing the same, it aboundeth
also with lorraine Merchandise. Of old it was the seate
of many Roman Emperours: but the Historie of the
365

1594--
Historie of
the Citie.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Citie being contained in the Historie of Italy, I will
onely remember, that the .Archbishop thereof long time
challenged the Primacie in the Italian Church, never
acknowledging the Bishop of Rome for superiour; and
that he crowned the Emperour with a Crowne of Iron,
after the people of Milan had approved him: That the
King of the Ostrogothes had the same Crowne set upon
his head after his victorie, which Crowne (they say) was
given, in signe that the Empire and the command of
Milan were to be won by Iron. That the Citizens of
Milan were often Rebels to the Emperours. That the
Vicounts made vicarii of the Citie, did by little and little
subject the Territorie, and the Citie with title of Duke
of Milan. That the Family of Vicounts being extinct
in Duke Philip about the yeere I447, the Dukes of
Orleance by right of their Mother, and Francis Sforza
by the right of his wife, chalenged the inheritance of
the Dukedome: but the Emperour thought the same
Francis to bee fallen backe to his right. That Francis Sforza
Sforzn. was by the people first made Captaine of their forces, &
then chosen Duke. That the French King Francis the
first, defending the right of the Dukes of Orleans, cast
Sforza out of the Dukedome in the yeere 449- That
the Emperor Charles the rift, casting out the French in
the yere I52i , first restored Sforza to the Dukedome,
with some restraint of his power; but he' being dead,
invaded the Dukedom himself, wherupon after many
[I. ii. 17,. ] contentions & battels, it came to his successours the Kings
of Spaine, of the family of Austria, to whom at this day
it is subject.
The Citie is of a round forme, and hath nine gates,
the building shewes antiquitie, and the houses are' of
bricke and low built, excepting some stately Pallaces (such
as is that of the Duke of Terra Nova) the streetes are
broad, and the pavement of bricke, raised in the middest
with broad stones.
When I came to the Citie on foote, I made offer to
enter at the Gate called Genese on the South side: but

366

COMMENTS UPON MILAN A.D.
I 594.
the Guard refused me as a foot-man to passe into the At
Citie; and lest by my importunitie I should have made
them looke more narrowly into my qualitie, (they being
commonly expert men, to find out any disguised person),
I went backe into the Suburbes, as if I would lodge
there ; but as soone as I was out of sight, I walked further
towards the East, compassing a great Fen, and so joyning
my selfe to some Citizens, returning from walking in
the fieldes, I entered with them into the Citie, by the
next Gate on the same South side, which Gate is called
Lodovico, and was only kept by one souldier. A little
Brooke within the walles compasseth the very center of
the Citie circularly; beyond which Brooke, on the North-
side. within the walles, not farre from the Gate Zobia,
is a large Meadow, wherein are no houses: for there
is the most strong Castle seated in a Plaine, and kept
by a Spanish Garrison, into which no Frenchman may
enter. Therefore I having gotten so difficultly into the
City, restrained my curiositie from attempting to view
this Castle, lest I should rashly expose my selfe to great
danger. Further towards the North without the Gate
Renza, is a large Hospitall for those that are sicke of
the plague, having more chimnies (as they say) then the
yeere hath dayes. Not farre from the Gate Genese, is
the Church of S. Laurence, which of old was dedicated The Church
to Hercules by the Emperour Maximinianus Erculeus 0fs.
buried in the same; and it hath a rare Image of the Lnurence.
Virgin Marie, and x6 stately Marble Pillars, and the
building is Magnificent. The Emperour Theodosias is
said to have given to S. Ambrose Archbishop of Milan,
one of the nailes wherewith Christ was fastened to the
Crosse, and the brasen Serpent that Moses lift up in the
Desert (the Image of which Serpent was of mixt mettall,
vulgarly called di bronzo), and they say, that S. Ambrose
left these reliques in the Churches of S. Tecla and of
S. Ambrose; and the Altar under which the body of S.
Ambrose lies, is valued at 28000 Crownes. In the
Church Delle Gratie, belonging to the Benedictine Friers,
367

COMMENTS UPON CREMONA

were borne in this Citie. The forme of the City seemes
.very like to a Cardinals Hat with broad brimes, and it
is seated in a Plaine, one mile distant from the River
Po. Wee entred this Citie by the narrow part lying
towards Milan, and there is a most strong Fort built to
keepe the Citizens in awe, and kept by a Spanish Garison,
and seated in a plaine field, wherein are no other buildings
but the Fort it selfe. From hence going to the opposite
& broader part of the Citie, is a large and very faire
Market place, neare which is a Tower or Steeple, of
such height and beautie, as the Italians proverbially say,
One Peter at Rome; one Haven at Ancona; one Tower
at Cremona; thereby noting the excellencie. This Tower
is built of bricke, and hath foure hundred ninetie and
two staires in the ascent. Neare the same is a statua of
a Giant, who, they say, was overcome by Hercules, the
founder of the Citie; and the Citizens keepe a feast once
a yeere, at which time with many ceremonies they adorne
this statua with rich robes. Neere this Tower and Market
place, lies the stately Cathedrall Church, and the fairest
and richest Monastery is that of Saint Dominick. This
Citie hath many stately Pallaces, and the streetes thereof
are broad and very pleasant. Here I payed thirtie three
soldi (that is the fourth part of a Ducaton) for my supper.
From hence to Mantua are fortie five miles, whether
I hired a horse for five lires. The first day we rode
twentie two miles, where going out of the Dutchie of
Milan, and passing the River Oye, wee entered the
Dutchie of Mantua, and then rode nine miles to Mercaria.
And by the way we passed the pleasant Castle, or rather
Citie called Bozilia, belonging to Julius Gonzaga, being
of the Family of the Dukes of Mantua; which Castle
was built with open cloisters or arches toward the streete,
under which the passengers walke drie in the greatest
raine, and such are the buildings of the Cities in this
Dukedome, and in many neighbour places. By the way
also in a solitary Inne I paid fifteene soldi for my dinner,
and at Mercaria I payed thirtie foure soldi for my supper.
. 369

594-
[I. ii. 172.]

The Tower of
C l"e ttl otl a .

FFottl
Creraona to
Mantua.

594.
Mantua.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

The second day we rode fourteene miles to Mantua
through most fruitfull fieldes, tilled after the manner of
Lombardy, and in a most durtie highway. The Histories
report, that this Citie bad the name of Manto, the
daughter of Tyresias. It is seated in the middest of
Fennes or Lakes, made by the River Mencius. The
buildings are partly of Brick, partly of Free stone, and
the streetes are large and cleane. The forme of this Citie
is round, save that the foresaid Lakes on the North and
East-sides enter into the Citie, in the forme of an halfe
Moone. Comming from Cremona I entred Mantua on
the West side, by the Gate Predella, where is a faire
streete called I1 Borgo. On the same side towards the
Te D,,e's South, is the Gate Pistrella, which leades to the Dukes
Pallace. stately Pallace called Teye, seated some mile out of the
Citie, and compassed with water, where in the Giants
Chamber I did see most faire pictures, and it is built in
a quadrangle onely two stories high, with a low roofe
after the manner of the building of Italy. On the South-
side is the Gate of Sirceses whence the way lies by the
banke of the Lake to a Village called Petula, two miles
distant from the Citie, in which, they say, that the famous
Poet Virgil was borne, and shew the house where his
parents dwelt. Partly on the North, and partly on the
East side, the Citie is compassed with Lakes, which
usually are covered with infinite number of water-foule;
and from these Lakes there is a passage into the River
Po, and so by water to Venice. On the North-East
The Gate of side is the Gate of S. George, whence betweene the two
S. George. Lakes is a causey two hundred walking paces long, and
beyond it a bridge of stone five hundred paces long, like
to a faire gallery, covered over the head, and supported
with bricke pillars, having open windowes, two paces
distant one from the other, then passing a draw-bridge,
you come to another causey betweene the said two Lakes,
which causey is two hundred forty walking paces long,
before you come to firme land. On the East side of the
said bridge, and within the Citie, the Dukes stately Pallace
370

COMMENTS UPON MANTUA

lies upon the Lake, and to this Pallace joyneth the
Cathedrall Church of Saint Peter, where also is a pleasant
Market-place. There lie the Dukes stables, and in one
of them were some hundred horses for the saddle, and
in the other as many for the Coach, and he hath a third
stable without the Gates, wherein is the like number of
young Colts. On the North-side, at the furthest banke
of the Lake, is one onely Gate, and a like bridge to passe [I. ii.
into the Suburbes, and there lies the way to the chiefe
Pallace of the Duke, some few miles distant from the
Citie, called Mirmirollo, the building whereof is onely
two stories hie, with a low roofe, and the chiefe chambers
were hung with guilded leather, after the Italian maner,
three skins whereof were commonly sold for a Crowne,
and the Gardens of this Pallace were exceeding pleasant.
In the middest of the Citie Mantua is a large Market
place, wherein the Jewes have their shops, and sell all T,e Jeves
manner of wares, for all trafficke is in their hands, growing fa,oured in
rich by the povertie of the Citizens; and being so much Mantua.
favoured by the Duke, as they dwell not in any severall
part of the Citie, but where they list, and in the very
Market-place; neither are they forced (as in other parts
of Italy) to weare yellow or red caps, whereby they may
bee knowne, but onely a little piece of yellow cloth on
the left side of their cloakes, so as they can hardly be
distinguished from Christians, especially in their shops,
where they weare no cloakes. Such be the priviledg.es
which the Jewes have gotten by bribing (especially in
the Dutchey of Savoy) through the unsatiable avarice
of our Christian Princes. Neere this Market place is
the large Church of Saint Andrew, and the Senate-house, The Senate
in which they shew two statuaes of Cupid (whereof one Hoz, e.
is ancient, and of much greater value then the other),
and a very long Unicornes horne, and a paire of Organs
of Aliblaster, besides Jewels, and vessels of gold and
silver. Not farre thence is the third Market-place of
Justice. To conclude, at the gate of Saint Francis Church
is the head of Virgil, which the Neapolitans say (as in
37!

A.Do
594.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the description of that Citie I formerly said) was stolne
from the Sepulcher of Virgil, upon the Mount Pausilip.
In the Pallace called della ragione, is another statua of
Virgil, sitting at a Table of brasse, as if hee were writing,
and .crowned with Laurell. I said formerly, that there
is a passage from the Lakes into the River Po, and so
by water to Venice, and the Duke, to take his pleasure
A boat bmlt upon the water, hath a boat called Bucentoro, because
like a it will beare some two hundred, and it is built in the
banquctitg upper part like a banqueting house, having five roomes
house.
(with glased windowes) wherein the Duke and his Traine
doe sit; and these roomes are supported upon a boat,
the Mariners that row the same, sitting under the said
roomes, the first and largest roome whereof was fifteene
walking paces long, with benches on both sides; the
second was eight paces long, the third five, and the fourth
likewise five paces long; the fifth was a Gallerie over
the other roomes fortie paces long, and open, to which
they mounted by staires out of the first roome. And
this boate doth not onely much differ from our Kings
barge% aswell for the bignesse as the rich furniture, but
also is flat in the bottome, the waters being still and calme
on which it passeth. These roomes according to occasions
have more or lesse rich hangings, when the Duke either
goeth out to disport himself, or when he takes any journy
therin, (as oft he doth.)
U, la,.f, l to It is unlawfull to weare a sword without licence of
u,eareasu,ord the Magistrate, either at Milan, Cremona, Mantua, or
in Italy. almost in any Citie of Italy ; onely at Venice and Paduoa,
and the Cities of that State, strangers may weare Swords,
and onely the wearing of Pistols or short gunnes is
forbidden. At Mantua I paied three reali each meale,
and being to depart thence, I was forced to take a Bill
of the Customers, by which they signifie to the Guard
at the gate, whether the passenger be to goe on horseback,
on foote, or by coach, and what tribute he is to pay; for
w.hich Bill a footeman paies 3- soldi, another passenger
six. Thus the Princes of Italy having small Territories,
372

FROM MANTUA TO PADUA

I594-

doe not onely burthen their subjects with taxes, but all
strangers, & strictly take account from the exacters therof.
Being to goe from hence to Paduoa, we went out of
the gate Saint George, and I hired a horse from Mantua
to the Castle Este for eleven lires. The first day wee
passed by a Forte of the Venetians most strongly fortified
upon the confines of that State, which Fort lies upon
the River Athesis, and is called Lignaco, and rode some Fort Lignaco.
twenty miles through a Plaine tilled after the manner of
Lombardy to Monteguiara, where I paied fortie soldi,
(that is two lires) for my supper. The next morning I
rode nine miles to the Castle Este, whence is the Family
of the Dukes of Ferraria, long flourishing, but now
extinct. From thence I passed by boate 5 miles to
Paduoa, and paied 22 soldi for my passage. This day Pad, on.
when I returned to Paduoa, was the 4 of December,
after the new stile, in the yeere 594, which city & the
rate of vittles there, I have formerly described.
Chap. IIII. [I. ii. 74.]
Of the Sepulcher of Petrarch at Arqua. Of my
journey to Vicenza, Verona, Brescia, and
Bergamo (in Italy), then passing the Alpes,
to Chur, Zurech, Solothurn, Geneva, and (in
my returne thence) to Berna (in Sweitzerland),
thence to Strasburg (in Germany), and to
Chalon, to Paris, to Roan, and to Diepe (in
France), and finally of my passage by Sea and
Land, to London (in England).
Hilest I expected the commoditie of the
Spring for my journey home-wards, I
went to Venice to receive money there,
and retaining a sufficient proportion in
my hands, I thought to make over the rest
to Paris by bills of exchange, but France
having been now long wasted with civill
war, I could not finde one Merchant of Venice, who had
373

COMMENTS UPON ARQUA

house and fields, made this Image in the yeere
MDXCVII. the Ides of September.
There is also a Fountaine, vulgarly called the Fountaine
of Petrarch, upon which these verses are written.
Fonti numen inest, hospes venerare liquorem,
Unde bibens cecinit digna Petrarcha Deis.
Some god dwells here, worship the sacred Spring,
Whence Petrarch drinking, heavenly Rimes did sing.
Petrarch dwelt at Arqua, and here in the same house
wherein they say he dwelt, the historie of Petrarches life
is painted, where the owner of the house shewed us some
household stuffe belonging to him, and the very skinne
of a Cat he loved, which they have dried, and still keepe. Petrarch's
Here I did see his Studie, (a pleasant roome, especially cat.
for the sweet prospect) and likewise a faire picture of
Lucretia ready to die. No situation can be imagined
more pleasant, then that of Arqua, lying in the mouth
of Mountaines abounding with Olive trees, and opening [I. ii. 75.]
themselves upon a fruitfull plaine on the East and North
sides. This plaine yeeldeth nothing in pleasantnes, or
in fruitfulnes to that of Capua, famous for the corrupting
of Hannibals Army. But it is a needles worke to praise
the Euganian hils, which so many Poets and Writers
have magnified.
Upon Friday the third day of March (after the new
stile) in the beginning of the yeere I595, according to 4nno '595.
the Italians (beginning the yeere the first of January)
or the end of the yeere 1594, according to the English
(beginning the yeere upon. the twenty five of March)
I turned my face to journey towards my deere
Countrey. And the first day I rode eighteene miles to
Vicenza, through a most pleasant plaine tilled after the
manner of Lombardy (where one and the same field yeelds
plenty of corne, and hath Elme trees growing in the
furrowes, which support the vines ; so that one field gives
bread, wine, and wood for to burne.) By the way my
375

A.D. FYNES 51ORYSON'S ITINERARY
I595.
curiositie made me turne aside two miles out of the way,
that I might see a wonderful1 Cave, and a most pleasant
Cotozn. parlor at Costoza, in the house of Cesario Trento a
Gentleman of Vicenza. The Cave was large, and fit to
receive divers bands of souldiers. The Parlor was called
the prison of/Eolus god of the Windes; because there
were certaine mils, which in summer time draw much
wind out of hollow Caves, and disperse the same through
all the chambers of the Pallace, refreshing all that dwell
there, with a most pleasant coole aire. And upon this
Parlor this verse of Virgill was written:
tEolus hic clauso ventorum carcere regnat.
/Eolus here in the winds prison raignes:
l'icenn. The City of Vicenza is a faire City, compassed with
a wall of bricke: but the building howsoever it be very
stately, is not like to that of other Cities in these parts,
in this one point, namely, that the second story of the
houses hangeth over the streetes, and being supported
with arches, giveth the passengers shelter from raine.
Here I did see a Theater for Playes, which was little,
but very faire and pleasant. In the market place there
is a stately Pallace, and the monastery of Saint Corona
belonging to the preaching Friars, is fairely built, and
hath a rich Library; and the Friars keepe for a holy
relike the Thorne wherewith Christ was crowned. The
Citie is subject to the Venetians, and is seated in a plaine,
having mountaines somewhat distant on the North and
South sides. Here I paid forty soldi for my supper, and
eighteene soldi for three measures of oates, called
quarterolli, and for the stable (so they call hay straw,
and the stable roome, and so I will hereafter call it) I
paid twenty soldi. Here I hired a horse for fiftie six
soldi, for a foote-man that had attended me hither, and
was to returne to Paduoa.
l'e,-ona From Vicenza I rode thirty miles to Verona, in a most
pleasant plaine (tilled after the manner of Lombardy) lying
on my left hand towards Italy, farther then I could see,
376

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

brother Bartholmew (partner with him of that Lordship)
about the yeere 38, was driven out of the City by
Vicount John Galeatius, the first Duke of Milan, and
he being dead, William Scaliger, helped by Francis
Carrariensis, drove the Garrison of Milan out of the City,
in the yeere i4o 4. But the said Francis killing the said
William by poison, and the Family of the Scaligers being
then so wasted, as scarcely any one was to be found of
lTeron mae'e that name ; the Venetians tooke occasion by this detestable
subject to treason of the said Francis, to make the City subject to
l'enice, them: but their Army being defeated by the French in
the yeere, i5o9, by a composition made betweene the
French King and the Emperour Maximilian, the City
became subject to the said Emperour, till the Venetians
recovered the same out of his hands in the yeere r5r7,
under whose subjection the City to this day flourisheth,
in great aboundance of all things.
The On the North-side of the City without the wals, is the
,,ountaine mountaine Baldo, hanging over the City, and famous for
Baldo. the great plenty of medicinable herbes, and upon the side
of this mountaine, within the wals, are no buildings, but
onely a strong Fort.
On the south side lies the way to Mantua (2 3 miles
distant,) and upon the same side lies the foresaid
stony plaine, five miles long, and ennobled with many
skirmishes, battels, and victories. In this plaine the
Consull Caius Marius defeated the Cimbri, and Odoacer
King of the Heruli (who destroied the Westerne Empire)
was defeated by Theodoricus King of the Ostrogothes,
and the Dutch Emperour Arnolphus Duke of Bavaria,
was defeated by Hugh of Burgundy, then possessing
Italy. Upon the same South side within the wals, is a
faire market place, and the Pallace of the Venetian
Governour (which Governour in Italy is vulgarly called
II Podesta.) And neere the wals on this side, lies a
stately Monument of an old Ampitheater, at this day little
ruined, vulgarly called Harena, and built by Luc:
Flaminius, (though others say it was built by the
378

plaine.

COMMENTS UPON VERONA ..D.
595.
Emperour Octavius.) It passeth in bignesse all the old
Amphitheaters in Italy, and the outside thereof is of The
Marble, and the inner side with all the seates, is of bricke.
It is of an ovall forme, and the inner yard is sixety three
walking paces long, and forty eight broade, where the
lowest seates are most narrow, whence the seates arise
in forty foure staires or degrees (howsoever others write
that there be onely forty two degrees), and they so arise,
as the upper is still of greater circuit then the lower. And
the shoppes of the Citizens built on the outside, under
the said increase of the inner circuit, have about fifty
two walking paces in bredth, which is to be added to
make the full breadth of the inside. It hath eighteene
gates, and betweene every Arch are very faire statuaes,
and the seates within the same, are said to bee capable
of twentie three thousand one hundred eightie and foure
beholders, each one having a foote and a halle allowed
for his seate. Each one of us gave two gagetti to
the keeper of this monument. Alboinus King of the
Lombards, was killed by his wife at Verona. In the
Monastery of Saint Zeno is a Monument erected to Pipin,
sonne to Charles the Great, and betweene this Monastery
and the next Church, in a Church yard under the ground,
is the Monument of Qeene Amalasuenta.
Berengarius King of Italy, was killed at Verona; and
this City braggeth of two famous Citizens, namely, the Citizens.
old Poet Catullus, and Guarinus, a late writer. The
territorie of this Citie is most fruitful1, abounding with
all necessaries for life, and more specially with rich Wines,
particularly the Retian wine, (much praised by Pliny, and
preferred to the Wine of Falernum by Virgil1), which
the Kings of the Gothes were wont to carrie with them
as farre as Rome. It is of a red colour and sweet, and [[. ii. 77-]
howsoever it seemes thicke, more fit to be eaten then
drunke, yet it is of a most pleasant taste. The Lake
Bennacus is much commended for the store of good
Carpes, and other good fish : besides this territory yeelds
very good marble. Here I paid forty soldi for my supper,
379

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

and sixteene soldi for the stable, (that is for hay and straw)
and eighteene soldi for three measures of Oates. Certaine
Gentlemen bearing me company from Paduoa to this
City, and being to returne thither, did here each of them
hire a horse, for three lires and a halfe to Vicenza, where
they were to pay for their horse meat.
From hence I rode fifteene miles to the Castle
Peschiera, built by the old Lords of Verona, and seated
upon the Lake Bennacus, vulgarly called I1 Lago di
Gardo, where they demanded of me two quatrines for
the passage of a bridge: but when I shewed them my
Matricula, that is, a paper, witnessing that I was a
Sco#er's scholler of Paduoa, they dismissed me as free of all
priviledges. Tributes. And in like sort by the same writing, I was
freed at Paduoa from paying six soldi, and at Verona
from paying eight soldi. I rode from this Castle seven
miles to a Village, seated upon the same Lake, famous for
the pleasant territory, and the abundance of good fish:
and here I paid twenty soldi for my dinner, and eight soldi
for my horse meat. All my journey this day was in a
most sweet plaine, rising still higher with faire distances,
so as the ascent could hardly be seene.
Brescia. After dinner I rode eighteene miles to Brescia, which
City flourished under the old Emperours of Italy, then
was subject to the Lombards and tyrant Kings of Italy,
and they being overcome, to Charles the Great and
French Governours; then to the Westerne Emperours
of Germany, and to the Italian family of the Berengarii.
And it obtained of the Emperour Otho the priviledge to
be a free City of the Empire, till being wasted by the
factions of the Guelphi and Gibellini, the Scaligeri, a
family of the same City, made themselves Lords thereof,
whom the Vicounts of Milan cast out of the Citie: and
when Phillip Maria Duke of Milan oppressed the City,
and would not be induced to ease the same of his great
impositions, they yeelded themselves in the yeere
to the French King, who had defeated the Venetian
Army. Then by the French Kings agreement with the
380

COMMENTS UPON BRESCIA

Emperour Maximilian, the Citie was given i,ato the
Emperours hands; whose Nephew the Emperour Charles
the fifth, restored the same to the French King Francis
the first, who likewise in the yeere i517, gave the same
into the hands of the Venetians. The most fruitfull
territorie of Brescia, hath mines of Iron and brasse, and
I thinke so many Castles, Villages, and Houses, so little
distant the one from the other, can hardly be found else
where. The Brooke Garza runs through the City, which
is of a round forme, and is seated for the most part in a
plaine, and towards the North upon the side of a moun-
taine, where a Tower is built, which hath many houses
adjoining, and in this Tower or Castle the Venetian
Governour dwels, who takes an oath that he will never The
goe out of the same, till a new Governour be sent from go,ernr's
oath.
Venice. The Cities building is of bricke, the streetes
are large, and are paved with flint. Boniface Bembus,
was a Citizen of Brescia, and the Brescians; as also the
Citizens of Bergamo, are in manners and customes more
like the French their old Lords, then the other Italians
farther distant from France, and the very weomen receive
and give salutations, and converse with the French
liberty, without any offence to their husbands, which
other Italians would never indure. Here I paid forty
soldi for my supper, and forty soldi for foure measures
of oates and for the stable.
From hence I rode thirty two miles to Bergamo: and Bergamo.
as the territories in this part of Italy (lying upon the
South sunne, which beats upon the sides of the hils and
mountaines, with great reflection of heat, and upon the
other side defended from the cold windes of the North
and East, by the interposition of the Alpes) are singularly
ffuitfull and pleasant; so for the first twenty miles of
this dales journey, they seemed to me more pleasant then
the very plaine of Capua, yeelding plenty of corne, and
of vines growing upon Elmes in the furrowes of the
lands, which Elmes are planted in such artificiall rowes,
as the prospect thereof much delighteth the eye. And
38t

[I. ii. I78. ]
B'rescia's
many masters.

.4 rich
Library.

FYNES 510RYSON'S ITINERARY

the other twelve miles were yet more pleasant, being
tilled in like sort; and towards my journies end, yeelding
most large and rich pastures. The City Bergamo after
the Roman Empire was extinct, first obeyed the Lom-
bards, then the French; and following the fortune of
Brescia, was sometimes subject to the Vicounts of Milan,
and other Princes (invading their liberty which they had
under the Empire) and other times was subdued by
divers of their owne Citizens, and being oppressed by
the Dukes of Milan, they yeelded themselves in the yeere
4z8, to the Venetians, whose Army being defeated the
next yeere by the French, this City likewise submitted it
selfe to them, and they being cast out of Italy, it was
subjected to the Sfortian family, Dukes of Milan, and
they being extinct, and the Emperour and French King
making warre for the Dukedome of Milan, this City in
the yeere 5x6, returned under the power of the
Venetians, who at this day enjoy the same in peace.
The City is seated upon a mountaine, upon the south-
side whereof a Fort is built, and under the mountaine
towards the East, are two large suburbs, full of faire
houses and Churches. Neere the market place in the
Church of Saint Mary, is a stately sepulcher of marble,
and in the monastery of the preaching Friars, is a rich
Library. These Citizens speake the Italian tongue, but
more rudely then any other of Italy. Here I paid foure
lires for my supper and horse-meat, and twelve soldi for
my breakefast.
From hence I tooke not the right way to Geneva, but
declined to the way of Chur, aswell because it was more
safe from robbery, as to be freed from all dangers, by
ventering againe to passe through the state of Milan.
When I came from Paduoa, I was not curious to find out
companions for this my long journey, aswell because I
hoped to find some by the way, as for that I being now
used to converse with any Christian strangers, little cared
to be solitary by the way: but deceived of this my
hope to find company, I passed all alone, not so much as
38

FROM BERGAMO TO GENEVA
I595.
accompanied with a foote-man, over the high Alpes,
which I thinke very few have done besides my selfe.
From Bergamo I rode nine miles to Trescher, where
! first entered the mouth of the A.lpes, and thence !
rode nineteen miles to Louer, passing by many very
pleasant lakes, and by the way I paid sixteene gagetti,
that is, thirty two soldi for foure horse shooes. Being to
passe from hence over the steepe and snowy Alpes, I
caused my horse to bee shod with eight sharpe and three
blunt nailes, for which I paid sixe soldi, and for my
supper twenty eight, and for three measures of oates
twenty foure, and for the stable eighteene soldi. The
second day I rode thirty two miles to the village Edoll,
through high mountaines, and there I paid three lires for
my supper and horse-meat. The third day in the morn-
ing I rode ten miles to a village Auryga, over a most high
and steepe mountaine of the same name; and now I
beganne to freeze, for cold, though before I entered the
Alpes, I could hardly indure the heat of the Clime.
Hence I went forward one mile to a little Brooke,
which divideth the territory of the Venetians, and the
Grysons (which are a free people confederate with the
Cantons of Sweitzerland), and five miles further to Villa,
where I paid twenty sixe soldi of Venice for my dinner
and horse-meat; and it being now the time of Lent,
they gave us flesh to eat,. whereof I was glad as of a
dainty I could not get m Italy, neither would they
gratifie the Italians their neighbours, in providing any
thing else for them; so as they were forced to eat flesh
without any scruple of conscience, which this people of
the reformed religion would little have regarded. After
dinner I rode ten miles to Poschiano, through a most
pleasant valley, compassed on all sides with mountaines,
where I paid two berlinghctti (or two lyres of Venice)
for my supper and breakefast, (for all passengers use to
breake their fast in going over the Alpes) and one
Berlinghotto for five measures of oates, and for the
stable. The fourth day in the morning for twelve miles
383

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

mountaines) and I rode two most long miles more, over
R,bes,eie. hils to the little City Rabesuele, and for the passage of
my selfe and my horse over the Lake, I paid seven batzen,
and for oates for my horse (while I expected consorts)
I paid three creitzers. The foresaid little City, is con-
federate with the Sweitzer Cantons; and here I paid
eighteene batzen for my supper, with extraordinary fare,
and my breakfast and horse-meat. The eight day in the
morning, after I had ridden foure houres space (for the
Long Miles. Sweitzers miles are so long, and of so uncertaine measure,
as they use to measure their journies by houres riding,
not by miles); I wondered to heare that we had ridden
but one mile. Our way was through pleasant hils
planted with vines, growing upon short stakes, as the
Dutch use to plant them. Here we dined in a village, and
throughout all this territory I paied about seven batzen
a meale. After dinner having in three houres ridden
three miles, my horse weary of this long journey without
so much as a daies rest, beganne to faint, so I was forced
[I. ii. x8o.] in a village to give him some two houres rest, and some
provender; and my way hitherto was through pleasant
hils, in like sort planted with vines on my right hand
towards the East, and by the side of the Lake Zurechzea,
on the left hand towards the West. And the pleasant-
hesse of this Village seated among hilles planted with
Vines on the East side of the said Lake, made me as
willing as my horse to rest there. The same evening
Zul-ec. I rode further one mile to Zurech, which city I formerly
described in my former passage through Sweitzerland.
I formerly said, that for the unpossibilitie to exchange
my money from Venice to Paris, I was forced to exchange
the same to Geneva. For which cause, and out of my
desire to view that Citie, famous for reformation of
Religion, after some few daies I took my iourney thither,
turning out of my high way. The first day in the
morning, through a way most pleasant for the variety of
Plaines, Hilles, Orchards, Woods, and Gardens, (wherein
I passed by an ancient Castle of the Counts of Habs-
386

FROM BERGAMO TO GENEVA

Purg),
I rode in eight howers space to a Village, where
Ilodged, and payed a franke and a halle (French money)
for my supper and horse-meate. The second day in the
morning, through a plaine Heath, Woods, and hilly
ground for pasture, I rode in foure houres space to a
Village, and there (as in the rest of this journey), I payed
about seven batzen of Dutch money for a meale.
After dinner through like way, I rode in three houres
space to Solothurn an ancient Citie, and one of the Solotur,.
Sweitzers Cantons, called in Latin Solidurum, and it hath
the name in both tongues, as the Tower of the Sunne, or
as consisting onely of Towers, whereof there be many.
One Tower thereof is of great antiquitie, and upon t
these verses in Latin are written:
Ex Celtis nihil est Soliduro antiquius uno,
Exceptis Treueris, quarum ego dicta soror.
What's older mongst the Celts then Solidure?
Nothing but Treir: whose sister I am sure.
They will have this Citie built in the time of the
Patriarke Abraham.
The third day in the morning I rode in foure houres 4rberg.
space to Arberg, by the side of a great River called Ar,
passing twice over it by two bridges. After dinner I
rode in foure houres space to Morion, through pleasant
hilles of Corne and Woods, and Pastures, and by the side
of the Lake Morionzea. Not farre hence Charles Duke
of Burgundy was defeated by the Sweitzers in the yeere
t476, and there in a field lie the bones of the souldiers
there killed. The Burgundians were thrice beaten in
one day, and here in the last battell Duke Charles also
was killed. The fourth day in the morning I rode in
three houres to Bitterline, through fruitfull Corne fieldes
and pastures, and after dinner in foure houres space I
rode to Milden, and about the midst of the way did see Milden.
the ruines of the ancient Citie Avenza, or Aventicum,
which Julius Cesar utterly raced, and Corne was now
sowed within the old circuit of the Citie, whereof no
387

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

memory remained, but one ruinous tower and a statua;
but they say, that the Husbandmen tilling the ground,
doe many times dig up old Roman coines of silver and
gold. Not farre thence towards the West, lie the snowy
Mountaines, which divide the Territories of Burgundy
and Sweitzerland.
Lomnna. The fifth day in five houres space I rode to Losannlt,
through Mountaines covered with Snow and thicke
Woods. This Citie is subject to Berna (being one of
the Sweitzers Cantons), but the Citizens speake French.
It is seated on the North side of the Lake of Losanna (of
old called Lacus Lemanus), which is compassed with
Mountaines continually covered with snow, which open
themselves on the East side towards Italy. On the East
side of the Citie is the head of the River Rhodanus,
which falles into this Lake, having so cleare a colour, as
it seemes not at all to mingle with the standing water of
the Lake. From hence I rode by the West side of this
Lake, and in two howers space came to Morgen, which
Towne is also subject to Berna.
Then I rode foure miles in foure houres space to
Geneva. Geneva, having the sandy banke of the said Lake on my
left hand towards the East, and most pleasant Hilles
planted with Vines on my right hand towards the West;
[I. ii. 8.] and by the way I did see a Village ruined in time of
warre, nothing there standing but a pillar erected in
honour of the Papists Masse. Geneva is seated on the
South side of the Lake, right opposite to Losanna, seated
at the North end thereof. The East side of the Lake
lies towards Savoy and Italy; and the West side towards
France, on which side also the high way lies into
Sweitzerland. The lower part of which Citie, vulgarly
la has rue, is seated in a plaine, and the rest upon a Hill.
The buildings are faire, and of free-stone. This Citie
being confederate with some of the Sweitzer Cantones,
and more strictly with Berna, hath defended the freedome
of the Citizens, and the profession of Reformed Religion
for many yeeres with great courage and pietie, and
388

COMMENTS UPON GENEVA

thro.ugh many miseries and practises to subdue them,
against the pretended rightes of the Bishop, and the
Duke of Savoyes ambition, and hatred he beares to the
Reformed Religion. The lower part thereof on the
North side, lies close to the South side of the Lake,
where is a little haven for Gallies, which they have built
to keepe free the passage of the Lake. And on the same
side is a strong Fort, and there the river Rhodanus,
comming out of the Lake enters the Citie, and runnes
through the lower part thereof, having two bridges for
pass.age. The Duke of Savoy, who hath long watched The Dttke
to surprize this Citie, possesseth the East side of the savoy.
Lake : but the Citie is carefull not to suffer him to build
any Gallies thereupon; and upon the least rumour of
building them, armeth their Gallies to burne the same.
Therefore the way into Savoy lying upon the East South
East side of the Citie, in a plaine betweene Hilles and
Mountaines, the Citie hath built a Fort of little circuit,
but great strength, with fortifications of earth, some
Musket shot without the walles upon that way, and
therein continually keepes a Garrison. Not farre thence
the River Arba, flowing from the Easterne Mountaines,
doth beyond the Citie fall into Rhodanus. At the South
Gate is a publike Church-yard for buriall, and an
Hospitall or Pest house, which are both without the _4,z HospitalL
walles. On the same side within the walles, is a pleasant
walke upon Hilles, where of old a pillar was erected,
with this inscription:
To the Emperour Cesar M. Aurelius Antoninus Pius,
by Fcelix Aug. greatest Bishop with Tribunall
power, Consull, &c.
On the West side of the Citie without the walles, little
Mountaines lying not farre distant, might seeme
dangerous for the encamping of enemies, save that on
the one side they are compassed with the Territorie
Berne, confederate with the Citie, and on the other side
with the River Rhodanus, so as the enemies passage to
389

COMMENTS UPON BERNE
1595.
good to follow, so as I was now to returne to Strasburg
in Germany, almost the same way I came.
Thus after noone I left Geneva, and rode that day 'rom Gene,a
foure miles to Morgen. The second day in the morning to Berne.
I rode in two houres space to Losanna, and in five
houres space to Milden, where I payed eight batzen Ibr
my dinner and horse-meate. After dinner in foure
howers space I rode to Bitterline, and payed fourteene
batzen for my supper and horse-meate. The third day
in the morning I rode one mile (as they call it) in foure
houres space to Morton, & in three howers space to
Berne, one of the Sweitzers Cantons, through sandy
fieldes of Corne, and many Woods. At Geneva many
French Gentlemen and Students comming thither for
the libertie of their religion, did speake pure French, and
from that Citie all the people spake a barbarous French
till I came neere Berne, where they first began to speake
the Sweitzers language.
Being to describe Berne, give me leave first for Berne.
Travellers sake to mention what I have read in some
Authors; that in the Territorie of Lucerna (which I
never viewed, and who are earnest Papists, and so may
justly bee suspected in like reports) there is a wonderfull
Lake, upon the banke whereof they say Pilate doth once
in a yeere walke, attired in Judges robes, and that who-
soever then sees him, doth die the same yeere. The
most faire Citie Berne hath the name of Beares in the The name af
Dutch tongue, because Berthold Duke of Zeringen, Berne.
being to build the Citie, and going fourth to hunt,
thought good to give it the name of the first beast he
should meete and kill. And there being a Wood of
Oakes in the very place where the Citie was to be built,
the workemen cutting the same for the building of the
Citie, did sing this Rime in Dutch:
Holtz lass dich hawen gern: Die star muss heissen Bern.
Wood let us willingly cut thee: this Citie must Bern
named be.

391

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

part I leave the credit of this monument to be tried by
the consent of Historians, and returne to my journey.
The fifth day in the morning, I rode foure miles to
ottmersea, the Towne Ottmersea, and in the afternoone, through
a stony Plaine of Corne and some Woods, I rode foure
miles to Besa. The sixth day in the morning I rode
five miles, through the like Plaine, to Gerzen, and in
the after-noone, through a woody heath Plaine, and
towards my journies end through fruitfull fields of Corne,
I rode foure miles to Strassburg. And in all this journey
I payed about seven batzen for each meale. From
Solothurne to Strassburg some reckon seventene miles,
others twenty two miles; for the Dutch reckon the miles
diversly, according to the length of them in their owne
Countrey, and in these parts they use to distinguish their
journies by bowers riding, not by miles. Not farre from
the foresaid Towne Besa, lies the Citie Bazell, which I
have described in my former journey through these parts.
But to gratifie those who love to search antiquities, give
4ugst me leave to say, that Augusta Rauracorum (so called for
R,u-,c0,,m. distinction from Augusta Vindelicorum) a Citie of great
antiquitie, and at this day become a poore Village, lies
distant from Bazell some mile towards the Mountaine
Jura, and that neere this ancient Citie are many old
monuments of the Romans, and many buildings under
the earth, which my selfe being lesse curious, did not
see; and that the Husbandmen there, digged up lately
a coyne of gold, and sold it for copper, which was after
valued at nine Crownes of the old Romans.
I say nothing of Strassburg, which I have in the foresaid
place f)rmerlv described, onely I will say, that I had the
A courteous good fortun there, to find a French Gentleman, the
French Governour of Monwick with his traine, in whose company
ge,tlem, I rode thither. The first day in the morning, I rode
through a fruitfull Plaine of Corne foure miles to
Saverne, in which Citie the Papisticall Chanons of Strass-
burg have long fortified themselves under the protection
of the Duke of Loraine, against their Lords the
394

FROM STRASSBURG TO NANCY

Senators of Strassburg, and have appropriated to them-
selves great part of the revenewes of that Bishop-
pricke, lying under their power. After dinner I rode
three miles through Hilles yet covered with snow, to
Villa Nova. Concerning my expences, I spent each
day little lesse then a French Crowne, namely, two
franckes for my supper, and commonly three. French
soulz for my breake-fast, and one franck for my
horsemeate.
The second day I rode one mile to the confines of the
Empire, and the Dukedome of Loraine, and some three
miles further to Monwick, where so much salt is made, M0nwick.
as the Duke of Loraine yeerely receives sixty thousand
French Crownes for the same. The third day through
a dyrtie way and fruitfull fieldes of Corne, I rode five
miles to the Citie Nanzi, where the Duke of Loraine Nanzi.
keepes his Court, and when I was entring the Gate, the
Captaine of the Guard drew towards mee, to know my.
name and Countrie. I not ignora.nt that the Family of [I. ii. I84.]
Loraine (usurping great power in France, under the
pretence to defend the Roman Religion) bare no good
will to the English at that time, answered, that I was
a Polonian, bee inquired many things of the Kingdome,
King and Qeene of Poland, and perceiving that I
answered him directly, bee whispered something with
some chiefe men of the Guard about my confidence, and
so turning againe to me, bad me lift up my hand, (for
so the French use to take othes.) I was much affraid
lest I should bee forced upon this oath to confesse my
Countrey which I had dissembled : but when I demaunded
the cause; hee told mee, that many places being infected Poland
by the Plague, I was to sweare, that I came not from infected ly
any of them, which (to be freed from my former feare) the tYag,,e.
I did gladly assure him upon my oath. The Citie is
strongly fortified, save that the South side, where the
circuit of the Citie was inlarged, was not yet compassed
with walles, neither were the houses on that side yet
built. The houses are fairely built of free stone. The

395

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Dukes Pallace was built foure square, with a large inner
Court all of free stone, and with a high Gallerie towards
the said Court-yard, and there I had the opportunitie
to see the Duke, and the Princes and the Princesses his
children.
Finding not heere any companie for my journey into
Metz. France, which I hoped to finde at Metz, and thinking
it not convenient to stay longer then I must needes, in
a place for the time ill affected to the English, I rode
the fourth day eight French miles to Metz. In the time
of the Emperour Charles the fifth, the French tooke
this Citie from the Empire, and at this day it was held
for Henrie the fourth King of France by a Garrison of
his men, and every one now talking of Peace made in
France, yet it was not then proclaimed in these parts,
nor upon any of the confines of France. My selfe after
few dayes stay, finding no consorts for my journey into
France, was admonished by some honest Gentlemen in
Dangers from this Citie, that this journey would bee very dangerous
Souldiers in to mee, in respect that the armie being broken up, all
France. France would bee full through all parts of scattering
troopes of Souldiers, returning to their owne homes.
But when they perceived that I was obstinate in my
purpose to passe through France into England, they
perswaded mee at least to sell my Horse, and goe on
foote; for they said, the bootie of a good Horse would
surely cause mee to bee robbed by those, who might
perhaps let me passe qu!etly on foot, disguised in poore
apparrell; for they seeing mee well mounted, would
surely set upon me, and twenty to one kill me aswel
because they that rob in France do commonly kill them
they rob, as because they would imagine mee to bee a
souldier, either on the Kings, or on the Leagers side, and
in that case, if I were on their owne side, would kill me,
for feare of being forced to restitution; and if I were
on the adverse part, would thinke mee well killed as
an enemie. Besides that, the Marshals of the Kingdome
at the ende of a Civill warre, used such severitie of justice
396

8everitie of
Justice.

FROM METZ TO CHALONS

Merchant, who staied for me at Chalons, whether I was
then going. He (as it seemed to me) thinking it
dishonourable to him, if he should himselfe assault a
poore fellow, and a stranger, did let me passe, but before
I came to the bottome of the hill, I might see him send
two horsemen after me, who wheeling about the moun-
taines, that I might not know they were of his company,
suddenly rushed upon me, and with fierce countenance 8obberie by
threatning death, presented their Carbines to my brest. :ae SouMier,.
I having no abilitie to defend mee, thought good not to
make any the least shew of resistance, so they tooke my
sword from my guide, and were content onely to rob
me of my mony. I formerly said, that I could not finde
at Venice any meanes to exchange my money to Paris,
the long Civill warre having barred the Parisians from
any traffique in lorraine parts, and that I was forced to
exchange my money to Geneva. This money there
received, I had quilted within my doublet, and when I
resolved to goe on foote to Paris, I made me a base cover
for my apparrel, which when they perceived, they tooke
from me the inward doublet wherein I had quilted the
gold, and though they perceived that under my base
cover, I had a Jerkin and hose laide with gold lace, yet
they were content to take onely the inner dublet, and Theeves
to leave me all the rest of my apparrell, wherein I doe Courtesie.
acknowledge their courtesie, since theeves give all they
doe not take. Besides, they tooke not onely my Crownes
but my sword, cloake, and shirtes, and made a very
unequall exchange with me for my hat, giving me another
deepe greasie French hat for it.
One thing in this miserie made me glad. I formerly
said, that I sold my horse for 6. French Crownes at
Metz, which Crownes I put in the bottome of a wooden
box, and covered them with a stinking ointment for scabs. [I. ii. 86.]
Sixe other French Crownes, for the worst event, I lapped
in cloth, and thereupon did wind divers colored threads,
wherein I sticked needles, as if I had been so good a
husband, as to mend my own clothes. This box and this

399

COMMENTS UPON PARIS A.I).
1595-
then the third part called the University, were esteemed
suburbes, till after they were joined to the City. For
the Kings Court and the City still increased with build- I,,'rea,e
ings, so as the Suburbes were greater then the City; the city.
whereupon King Charles the fifth gave them the same
priviledges which the City had, and compassed them with
wals, whereof the ruines yet appeare. And new Suburbes
being afterwards built, King Henry the second in the
yeere 548, made an Edict, that the houses unperfected
should be pulled down, and that no more should
afterwards be built. The River Seyne running from
the South, and entering at the South-side, divides the
City into two parts, the greater part whereof towards
the East and North, lies low in a plaine, and is vulgarly
called La ville. The lesse lying towards the South and
West, upon a higher ground, is seated betweene hils,
and is called the University. Betweene those two parts
lies the third, namely the Iland, called the City, which The liana
is seated in a plaine, and compassed on all sides with called the
the River Seyne, running betweene the Ville and the city.
University. And this part was of old joined to the
University, with two bridges, and to the Ville with three
bridges: but now a sixth called the new bridge, doth
moreover joine the Iland aswell to the Ville as to the
University. The part of the City called the Ville, is The lille.
compassed on the south and west sides with the River
Seyne, and upon the East and North sides with wals,
rampiers, and ditches, in the forme of halfe a circle. The
second part of the City called the University, is compassed The
on the East and North sides with the River Seyne, and Unirersity.
upon the South and West sides with wals, which they
write to have the forme of a hat, save that the lon.g
suburbes somewhat alter this forme. For my part it
seemed to me, that joined with the Iland, it had also the
forme of another halfe circle, though somewhat lesse then
the former. The third part called the Iland or City, is
compassed round about with the River Seyne, and upon
the South-east side is defended from the floods of the

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Tournelles. Not far thence at Saint Catherines Church
in the Schollers valley, is an inscription, witnessing that
a house was pulled downe to the ground, for an arrow
shot into the Church, when the Rector of the University
was there at Masse, in the yeere 14o4, there being at
4 sedition that time a great sedition raised betweene the City and
about a the University, about a scholler defiled with dirt, and
schollerdeflled that this house by permission of the University was built
with dirt. againe in the yeere I5t6. Also as you come into this
gate, on the right hand, in the Monastery Saint Anthony,
a dried Crocodill is hung up, which a French Ambassador
at Venice, left there for a monument in the yeere I5x5.
And there is a sepulcher of the daughters of King Charles,
being of blacke marble, with their statuaes of white
marble. Neere that lies the Church yard of Saint John
for publike buriall, made in the yard of the house of
Peter Craon, which was pulled downe to the ground in
the yeere x39o-, because the Constable of France was
wounded from thence. The second gate towards the
East, is the gate of the (C) Temple, neere which is the
fort called Le Bastillon, on your right hand as you come
in, and this fort, or some other in this place, was built
by Francis the first. On the left hand as you come in,
The house oJ is the house of the Templary Knights, like a little City
the Templary for the compasse, and from it this gate hath the name.
Knights. And when this order of Knighthood was extinguished,
their goods were given to the Order of Saint John. The
Church of this house is said to be built like that of"
Jerusalem, and there be the monuments of Bertrand &
Peter, (Priors of France,) & the Table of the Altar is
curiously painted; and here Phillip Villerius, Master of
the Knights of Saint John, was buried in the yeere x53.,
to whom a statua of white marble is erected. The third
gate is called (D) Saint Martine, and it lieth towards the
North-east, without which gate is the Suburb of Saint
Laurence, so called of the Church of Saint Laurence.
The fourth gate is called (E) Saint Denis, and without
the same is the Hospitall of Saint Lazarus, and the fore-
408

COMMENTS UPON PARIS

said Mount Falcon; and when King Henry the fourth
besieged this City, he did much harme to the same, from
some high places without this gate. On the left hand
as you come into the broad and faire street of Saint Denys,
lies a Castle which they say Julius Cesar built, and the A castle built
same Castle was of old the chiefe gate of Paris, whereupon by Julius
Marcellinus cals the whole City the Castle of the Parisians. Caesar.
And upon the right hand is the Nunnery of the daughters
of God, which use to give three morsels of bread and
a cup of wine to condemned men going to execution.
Not farre thence is the large Church yard of the Holy
Innocents, which King Phillip Augustus compassed with
wals; and there be many faire sepulchers: and they say
that bodies buried there are consumed in nine daies. The
fifth (F) gate lies toward the North, and is called Mont-
Martre, so called of a mountaine of the same name,
lying without that gate, and having the name of Martyres
there executed. And Henry the fourth besieging the
City, mounted his great Ordinance in this place. The
sixth (G) gate Saint Honore, hath a suburbe, in which
is the market place for swines flesh, and upon the right A market for
hand as you come in, hard by the gate, is an Hospitall swinefleh.
for three hundred blind men.
The seventh (H) and last gate, lies upon the Seyne
towards the North-west, and is called the new gate: and
within the same about a musket shot distance, is the (I)
Kings Pallace, which may be called the lesse Pallace, in [I. ii. '9'.]
respect of the greater, seated in the Iland, and this little
Pallace is vulgarly called, Le' louvre. This Pallace hath 7"e Kins
onely one Court yard, and is of a quadrangle forme, Pallace.
save that the length somewhat passeth the bredth, and
the building being of free stone, seemeth partly old, partly
new, and towards one of the corners, the Kings chambers
(vulgarly called I1 Pavilion) are more fairely built then
the rest. Without the said new gate, some halle musket
shot distance, is the Kings garden with the banquetting
house (vulgarly called Les Tuilleries). And now the
civill warres being ended, the King beganne to build a

409

COMMENTS UPON PARIS

and the Cardinall of Tolouse increased with a Library,
and with maintenance for sixteene Scholers to studie
Divinitie. Also there lie the house of Lorayne, the great
Schooles of foure Nations, the Market place for River
fish, and the Castle, and the little bridge which the Provost /bridge built
of Paris built, to restraine the Schollers walking by night, to restrain
in the time of King Charles the fifth. The second gate Scollers.
is called (L) the Porte of Marcellus, or of the Stewes,
and it hath a Suburbe, where in the Church of Saint
Marcellus, Bishop of Paris, and canonized for a Saint,
(which Rowland Count of Blois, nephew to Charles the
Great, did build) ; Peter Lombardus Bishop of Paris was
buried, in the yeere 1 I64; and behinde the great Altar,
in a window, is the Image of Charles the Great. On
the right hand as you enter the said Port, by the Mount
of S. Genovefa, lie the Colledge Turnonium, the Colledge
Bone Curiae, the Colledge of the Dutch, the Colledge
of Navarra, & the Colledge Marchicum, and the Colledge
Laudunense, and on the left hand the Colledge of the
Lombards, the Colledge Prelleum, famous for Peter
Ramus, who was Master of that Colledge, & was there
killed in the massacre. The third Gate of (M) S. James,
lyes on the South-west side, where King Francis the first
built a fort; & without this Gate is a suburb, in which
is a Church yard of the Monastery of Saint Marie, at
the very entrie whereof, is a most ancient Image of the
Virgin, painted with gold and silver, with an inscription
upon it. In the streete of Saint James, the Jesuites had The Jesuites
their Colledges, till for their wicked acts they were Co#edge.
banished the Citie and Kingdome. And since their
restitution I thinke they now enjoy the same. On the
right hand as you enter this Gate, lie the Colledge
Lexoviense, the Colledge of Saint Michael, or Cenale,
the Colledge Montis Acuti, (which built in the yeere
I49o , maintaines certaine poore Scholers, called Capeti),
the Colledge of S. Barbera, the Colledge of Rheines, [I. ii. 9z.]
the schoole of Decrees, the Colledge Bellovacense, the
Col.ledge Triqueticum, the Colledge Cameracense, and
411

AoDo
595-

.4 Monastery
oft&
Carthusians.

monastery of
Saint
Germain.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

the Colledge Carnovallense. On the left hand lie the
Colledge of the bald men, the Colledge of Sorbona,
(which Robert of Sorbona a Divine, and familiar with
King Saint Lewis, did institute, and the same in processe
of time became of great authority in determining
questions of Divinity), the Colledge of Master Gervasius
a Christian, the Colledge Plexoviense, and the Colledge
Marmontense. The fourth (N) Gate of the university
is called Port Michaell, where Francis the first built a
Fort, and before the gate is a Monastery of the
Carthusians, where a statua of blacke marble is erected
to Peter Navareus, and there be two statuaes of white
marble, without any inscription. On the right hand as
you enter this gate, lie the Colledge Cluniacense, the
Pallace of the Baths, (which they say was built by Julius
Cesar, and is so called either of the bounds of the
Tributes, or of the Baths of Julian the Apostata, the
waters whereof are drawne from a Village adjoining), and
the Colledge of eighteene, and upon the left hand the
Colledge of Hericuria, the Colledge of Justice, the
Colledge of the Treasurers, the Colledge Bajonium, the
Colledge Scensa, and the Colledge Turonense. The fifth
Gate on the West side is called (O) Saint Germain, and
without the gate is a suburbe, (all suburbes are vulgarly
called Faulxbourg), which is large, and was pulled downe
to the ground in the civill war. And there King Henry
the fourth lay encamped, when he besieged the City. In
this suburbe is the monastery of Saint Germain, not
inferiour to any in wealth, and indowed with great
priviledges and jurisdiction, where the old Kings Childe-
bert the second, and Chilperic the fourth, and Clotharius
the second, lie buried; and there is a chest of silver,
the gift of King Eudo. On the right hand as you come
into this Gate, in the Minorites Cloyster, are the
sepulchers of the Q.geenes and Princes, whereof one
being of blacke marble, with white statuaes, is the fairest :
(my memory herein may faile me, that there is another
Cloyster of Minorites without the gate of Saint Mar-
412

COMMENTS UPON PARIS
595-
cellus). Also there lie the Colledge Brissiacum, and Other
upon the left hand the house Rothomagensis, the Colledge Colledges.
of Burgondy, the house of Rhemes, the Colledge
Mignonium, the Colledge Premonstratense, and the
Colledge Dinvellium. The sixth Gate is called (P)
Bussia, and upon the right hand as you come in, lies
the Colledge Anthunense, and upon the left hand lies
the house Nivernensis. The seventh and last Gate of
the University, lies towards the north-west, & is called
(Q) Nella, and without the same is the meadow of the
Clerkes. On the right hand as you come in this gate,
lie the house Nella, the Colledge of Saint Denis, and
the house of the Augustines, wherein is the sepulcher
and lively Image of Phillip Comineus. And upon the
left hand, lie the lower Tower Nella, and the \Vesterne
bank of the River Seyne.
These are the fairest streetes of the University, the The.fairest
first of Saint Victoire, the second of Saint Marcellus, streetes of the
the third of Saint James, the fourth of Saint Germain, University.
the fifth of the Celestines, upon the banke of the River,
the sixth of the mountaine of Saint Genovefa, the seventh
of Saint Michaell, and the eight of the Augustines, upon
the banke of the river Seyne.
The third part of the City is the Iland, compassed The third
round about with the River Seyn. It had of old foure part ofte
Gates, upon the foure bridges, but seemes to have had Citie.
no gate upon the fifth bridge, called Pont aux musniers,
(which in this discription I reckon to be the third gate).
In the upper part of the Iland towards the South-east,
is a fenny market place, called the Marsh, that is, the
Fen. Neer that lies (R) the Cathedrall Church of the Te
blessed Virgin, which King Phillip Augustus began to Cathedrall
build in the yeere 257 , the foundations being before Church.
laid by an uncertaine founder, and it is reputed the chiefe
among the miracles of France. It is supported with one
hundred and twenty pillars, whereof one hundred and
eight are lesse, and twelve very great, being all of free
stone. The Chauncell is in the middest of the Church,

4x3

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

The famou
Church of
Saint
Bartholornew.

which hath 174. walking paces in length, and sixty paces
in bredth, and all the Chauncell is compassed with stone,
wherein the Histories of the old and new testament are
engraven. It hath forty five Chappels in the circuit
thereof, which are shut up with grates of Iron. In the
Front it hath two double doores, with faire statuaes of
twenty eight Kings. Upon the sides are foure Towers
[I. ii. 93-] or belfreyes, thirtie foure Cubits high. The greatest bell
great Bell. called Marie, requires twentie foure men to ring it, and
the sound thereof in faire weather may bee heard seven
leagues of. In a Chappell towards the South, are the
statuaes of King Lewis the fat, and of his son Phillip,
with the Image of a hog, because he died with a fal from
his horse stumbling upon a hog. On the North side is
a mark, that the overflowing of the River Seyne passed
the outward statuaes from that of Phillip Augustus.
King Phillip of Valois having gotten a victory against
the Flemings in the yeere i328 , offered his Horse and
armour to the blessed Virgin, and gave the Chanons
an hundred pounds yeerely rent, to whom for that cause
a Horse-roans statua is there erected. Also there is a
Giantlike statua, erected to Saint Christofer, in the yeere
I413, by Antony Dessars Knight.
In the lower part of the Iland towards the North-VTest,
the Church of (S) Saint Bartholmew is seated, which
was built by King Phillip the faire, and after was turned
from the Kings Chappell to a Monastery by King
Lotharius, in the yeere 973, and then became a parish
Church, whereof the King (in respect of the old Pallace)
was the chiefe Parishioner, and I thinke is so still. It
became most famous, in that the bell of that Church was
sounded upon the verie day of Saint Bartholmew, in the
yeere 1572, to give a signe to the Regalists and Guisians,
that they should kill those of the reformed Religion,
whom they had drawne to the Citie under pretence of
love, and could not otherwise have overcome, as they
found by experience of their valour.
Neere that, lyes the Kings greater (T) Pallace, wherein

414

COMMENTS UPON PARIS
I595.
the old Kings kept their Court; but it hath since been
used for the Courts of justice, and pleading of Lawyers. The old
In the great Hall hanges up a dried Crocodil, or a Serpent /',#,ce
like a Crocodil. There bee the painted Images of all fir the
the French Kings from Pharamund. There is a statua of.tce-
of a Hart, with the head and necke of Gold, set there
in memory of the Treasurers, who in the time of King
Charles the sixth, turned the money in the Exchequer
into that forme, lest it should be wasted.
Here was painted upon the wall neere the Tower, upon
the top of the staires of the great Hall, the Image of
Engueranus Morignon, Earle of Longaville, and overseer
of the building of this Pallace, under King Phillip the
faire, with this inscription:
Chascun' soit content de ses biens,
(i n' a suffisance il n' a riens.
Be thou content with the goods thee befall,
Who hath not enough, hath nothing at all.
This was spoken like a Philosopher: but the same man
under Lewis Hutinus was hanged for deceiving the King,
and this his Image was broken and kicked downe the
staires.
In the Hall of the Pallace is a Marble Table, at which
Kings and Emperours were wont to bee feasted. The
Chamber of the Pallace where verball appeales are decided,
is called, The golden Chamber; and it is adorned with The gdden
stately and faire arched roofes carved, and pictures, and Chamber.
there the Image of a Lyon, with the Head dejected, and
the Tayle drawne in, remembers the Pleaders of their
dutie.
Lewis the twelfth did build with Regall expence this
Chamber, and another called the Chamber of Accounts
(vulgarly la chambre des comptes.) In this Pallace the
Chappell built by Saint Lewis, lyes upon an arched
Chappell, which hath no pillars in the middest, but onely
on the sides ; and they say, that the true Images of Christ
and the blessed Virgin, are upon the lower dore. And
45

I595.

FYNES 51ORYSON'S ITINERARY

in this Chappell, the reliques are kept, which Balduinus
the Emperour of Constantinople ingaged to the Venetians,
and the King of France redeemed out of their hands.
[I. ii. 94.] In the very Hall of the Pallace, round about the pillars,
are shops of small wares or trifles.
T/e/oue of Right against the Gate of the Pallace, stood the house
.on C/ste//. of John Chastell, which was pulled downe in memorie
of a young man his sonne, brought up among the Jesuites,
and a practiser of their wicked doctrine, who attempting
the death of King Henrie the fourth, did strike out one
of his teeth.
I have said formerly, that this Iland was joyned to the
Ville by three Bridges, and to the Universitie by two
Bridges, and at this time is joyned to them both, by the
$ixc Bridges. sixth Bridge. The first (V) Bridge towards South-East,
leades to the street of Saint Martin, and is called pont
de nostre Dame, that is the Bridge of our Lady, and it
was built of wood in the yeere x417, having threescore
walking paces in length, and eighteene in breadth, and
threescore houses of bricke on each side built upon it.
But this bridge in the time of Lewis the twelfth falling
with his owne weight, was rebuilt upon sixe Arches of
stone, with threescore eight houses all of like bignesse
built upon it, and was paved with stone, so that any that
passed it, could hardly discerne it to bee a Bridge. The
second Bridge of the Broakers (vulgarly (W) Pont au
Change) is supported with pillars of wood. The third
Bridge of the Millers (vulgarly called (X) Pont aux
Musniers) lies towards the North-West, and leades to
the streete of Saint Denis, which they say did fall, and
was rebuilt within three yeeres then past. By these three
Bridges the Iland was of old joyned to the Ville. The
fourth Bridge lying on the other side of the Iland towards
the South, leades into the streete of Saint James, and is
called (Y) le petit pont, that is, The little Bridge, being
rebuilt or repaired of stone, by King Charles the sixth.
The fifth Bridge is called (Z) Saint Michell, and lying
towards the South-West side, leades into the streete of
416

COMMENTS UPON PARIS

595-

Saint Michell, and hath a pleasant walke towards the
foresaid Bridge of the millers, on the other side of the
Iland, and built upon pillars of wood, was repaired in
the yeere 1547, and adorned with bricke houses. By
these two Bridges the Iland was of old joyned to the
Universitie. Since that time after the ende of the Civill
warre, a new Bridge hath been lately built on that side
of the Iland, which lyes towards the North-West, and
it is called (XX) pont neuf, that is, The new Bridge,
joyning the Iland both to the Ville, and to the Universitie.
The chiefe streetes of the Iland are the very Bridges, and
the two wales leading to the Cathedrall Church, and to
the greater Pallace.
The Church (or the little Citie compassed with walles Saint Denis
in respect of the Church) of Saint Denis (the Protecting the p,otecting
Saint of the French) is two little miles distant from Paris. Saint of the
Hither I went passing by the Gate of Saint Denis, lying French.
towards the North-East.
Thence I passed upon a way paved with Flint, in a
large Plaine towards the East, having Mount Falcon on
my right hand, whether I said, that they use to draw the
dead bodies of those that are beheaded in the Ville, and
the next way to this mount is to goe out by the Gate
of Saint Martin. And upon my left hand I had the
Mountaine of the Martirs vulgarly called Mont Martre,
and the next way from the Citie to this Mountaine is
to goe out by the Gate Mont Martre.
Upon this Mountaine they say, that the Martyrs The Mo,n-
Dennis Areopagita, and Rusticus, and Eleutherius, were tine of the
beheaded in the time of Domitian, because they would M,'tyrs.
not offer sacrifice to Mercurie. And they constantly
beleeve this miracle, that all these three Martyrs carried
each one his head to the Village Catula, which now is
called Saint Dennis. And I observed by the way many
pillars with Altars, set up in the places where they say
the Martyrs rested (forsooth) with their heades in their
hand, and at last fell downe at Catula, where this Church
was built over them, and likewise a Monastery, by King
. 47 D

COMMENTS UPON PARIS
595-
miles over a Mountaine paved with Flint to the Kings
Pallace, called Fontain-bleau, that is, the Fountaine of 'ontain-b#au.
faire water. Beyond the same Mountaine this Pallace
of the King is seated in a Plaine compassed with Rockes.
And it is built (with Kingly Magnificence) of Free-stone,
divided into foure Court-yards, with a large Garden,
which was then somewhat wild and unmanured. At this
time the Civill warre being ended, the King began to
build a Gallerie, the beginning of which worke was very
magnificent.
The next day after I had seene the King, I returned
on foote eight leagues to Sone. Heere I found post-
Horses returning to Paris, and hiring one of them for
twentie soulz, I rode eight miles through fruitfull fieldes
of Corne, and pleasant Hilles planted with Vines; and
so returned to Paris, entring by the Gate of Saint Victoire
in the Universitie.
Now my Crownes which I had saved from the foresaid Wan of
theeves, were by little and little spent, and I, who in money.
my long journey had never wanted money, but had rather
furnished others that wanted with no small sums, was
forced to treat with unknowne Merchants, for taking
money upon exchange. But howsoever I had in other
places dealt with noble Merchants, yet here I found my
selfe to bee fallen into the hands of base and costive
Merchants, who perhaps having been deceived by English
Gentlemen, driven by want to serve in the warres of
France, had not the least respect of mee for my misfortune
among Theeves, nor yet for our common .Countrey. It
happened, that at this time there were in Paris two Two Trte
English Knights brethren, namely, Sir Charles and Sir Gentlemen.
Henry Davers, who for an ill accident lived then as
banished men. And to them I made my misfortune
knowne, who like Gentlemen of their qualitie, had
a just feeling thereof, especially for that they were
acquainted with Sir Richard Moryson my brother, and
they would willingly have lent mee money.
But I will tell a truth well knowne. These brothers

419

[I. ii. 196. ]

From Paris to
Roane.

Roae.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

upon good bonds were to have received some thousands
of Crownes a few moneths past in the Temple Hall (which
is one of the Innes of Court of London, for those that
professe the English Law). This being made knowne
by one of the debtors, the Q,eene confiscated those
Crownes, as belonging to banished men. Whereupon
these Knightes being to attend the French King to Lyons
in his warre upon Savoy, were much driven to their
shiftes, to get money for that journey. Yet did they
not cast off all care to provide for me, but with great
importunitie perswaded a starveling Merchant, to furnish
me with ten French Crownes. When I had received
them, I spent some few daies in refreshing my selfe at
Paris.
They account fortie eight miles from Paris to Roane,
whether I went by boat, and payed a French Crowne for
my passage. The first day we passed eighteene miles
to Poissy, a most faire and famous Nunnerie, and towards
the evening wee passed by the Kings Pallace S. Germain.
The next day we passed twentie leagues to Andale, and
by the way passed by a bridge, dividing the County of
France from the I)utchy of Normandy, and did see the
Pallace Galeon, and a most faire Monastery. Then we
passed foure miles by water to Port S. Antoine, and one
mile by land. Then wee hired another boat, in which
we passed five leagues to Roane, and I payed for this
passage three soulz. This our way was by pleasant Ilands,
having on both sides pleasant Hilles planted with Vines
and fruit-trees.
The Citie of Roane is seated on the North side of
the River Seyne, partly in a Plaine, partly upon sides
of Hilles. The building is for the most part of Free-
stone, brought from the Citie Cane; and upon a Hill
towards the North without the walles, the Fort S. Cateline
was seated, when King Henrie the fourth besieged Roane,
and then the Fort much anoyed the quarter of the English
auxiliarie forces: but now this Fort was altogether
demolished.

42O

FROM ROUEN TO DIEPPE ,.D.
a595.
Concern.ing expences of diet in these parts, I spent Fxenses of
at Paris m the Innes fifteene soulz each meale, and Diet inPnis
at Roane twelve soulz, and at some Innes by the way nnd Roane.
fifteene soulz: but whosoever payes for his supper,
hath nothing to pay for his bed. But before the late
Civill warre, they payed no more at Roane then eight
soulz for a meale. Passengers, who stay long in the
Citie, use to hire a chamber, which at Paris is given
for two French Crownes by the moneth, if it be
well furnished, and otherwise for lesse. They that at
Paris hier a chamber in this sort, use to buy their meate
in Cookes shops, and having agreed for it, the Cookes
bring it to their chamber warme, and with pleasant sauce.
And surely all things for diet were cheaper at Paris, then Thingsfor
they use to be at London, and since they use to buy Diet chenper
small peeces of meate, a solitarie passenger shall in that nt Pn,q than
respect spend the lesse. Other passengers agree with at London.
some Citizen for diet and chamber, which may bee had
at Paris in convenient sort for one hundred and fiftie
French Crownes by the yeere; and at Roane for one
hundred and twentie.- but before the last Civill warre,
it might have been had for one hundred, or eightie, and
sometimes for sixtie French Crownes. At Roane I now
payed for my supper twelve soulz, and the next day
eleven soulz for my dinner.
The .night following wee rode fourteene leagues to From lon
Diepe, an a most pleasant way, divided into inclosed to Dieppe.
Pastures, yeelding great store of Aple trees, not onely
in the hedges, but also in the open fieldes. About mid-
night we tooke some rest and meate in a poore and
solitarie Inne of a Village, but with such feare, as wee
were ready to flie upon the least noise. From Roane
to Dieppe I hired a horse for thirtie soulz, and in this
last Inne I payed twelve soulz for my meate, and five
soulz for my horse-meate.
Dieppe is a pleasant Citie, and the greater part thereof Dieppe.
(especially la Rue grande, that is the great street) is
seated in a plaine upon the Haven, but it is compassed
421

AoDo
595.

[I. ii. 97-]

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

with Mountaines, and is divided into two parts by an
Arme of the Sea. The greatest part of the building,
is of Timber and Clay, like our building of England.
I had spent at Paris most part of the ten Crownes I
there received, and when I came from Roane, I perceived
that I should presently fall into want of money. Being
in these straites, I went to the younger Paynter (one of
the English Posts passing betweene London and Paris,
and now returning in my company to London), and to
him in few words I made my case knowne, who willingly
yeelded to beare my charges to London, having me still
in his company for a pledge.
At Dieppe I payed fifteene soulz for each meale, and
ten soulz for my licence to passe over Sea, and five soulz
of gift to one of the Officers, and tenne soulz for my
part of a boat, hired to draw our ship out of the Haven
of Dieppe.
After we had sailed fourteene houres, upon Tuesday
the thirteenth of May (a.fter the old stile) in the yeere
595, early in the mormng, we landed in England at
Dover, and I payed a French Crowne for my passage in
the ship, and sixe English pence for my passage m a
boate from the ship to that Port of blessed England.
But we were scarce landed, when we were cited to appeare
The maior of before the Maior and his Assistants. Where for my
Dover and his part the more poore I was in apparrell, the more frowardly
Issistants. I behaved my selfe towards them, (as many good mindes
are most proud in the lowest fortunes), so as they began
to intreate me rudely, as if I were some Popish Priest,
till by chance a Gentleman one of the Maiors Assistants
asking my name, and being familiarly acquainted with
my brother, by privat discourse with me, understood that
I had been robbed in France; whereupon bee gave his
word for mee unto the Maior, and so walked with mee
to our Inne. There he shewed so much respect and
love to me, and after my refusall of mony from him, so
frankely gave his word for me to the English Post, as
he was not only willing to furnish me with what money

422

FROM PARIS TO LONDON

595.

I would, but himselfe and the Dutch Gentlemen my
Consorts in that journey, much more respected me,
though poorely apparelled, then they had formerly done.
Assoone as I came to London, I paled the ten French
Crownes due by my bill of exchange to the foresaid
French Merchant, and not onely payed to the English
Post the money hee had disbursed for mee by the way,
but gave him sixe French Crownes of free gift, an
thankfulnesse for this courtesie. At London it happened,
that (in regard of my robbing in France) when I entered
my sisters house in poore habit, a servant of the house
upon my demaund answered, that my sister was at home: deceived.
but when he did see me goe up the staires too boldly
(as he thought) without a guide, hee not knowing mee,
in respect of my long absence, did furiously and with
threatning words call me backe, and surely would have
been rude with me, had I not gone up faster then he
could follow me, and just as I entred my sisters chamber,
he had taken hold on my old cloake, which I willingly
flung of, to be rid of him. Then by my sisters imbraces
he perceived who I was, and stole backe as if he had
trodden upon a Snake.

4z3

[The Third

THE THIRD BOOKE.

Chap. I.
Of my journey to Stoade through the United
Provinces of ZNetherland, and upon the Sea-
coast of Germany: then to Brunswick and
(the right way) to Nurnburg, Augspurg, and
Inspruck (in Germany), and from thence to
Venice In Italy, and so (by the Mediterranean
Seas, and the Ilands thereof) to Jerusalem. In
which journey I slightly passe over the places
described in my former passage those waies.
T*e wo,-t* f ''-", IRom my tender youth I had a great desire
Traell. ')-! to see lorraine Countries, not to get
libertie (which I had in Cambridge in
such measure, as I could not well desire
i more), but to enable my understanding,
which I thought could not be done so
well by contemplation as by experience ;
nor by the eare or any sence so well, as by the eies. And
having once begun this course, I could not see any man
without emulation, and a kind of vertuous envy, who
had seene more Cities, Kingdomes, and Provinces, or
more Courts of Princes, Kings, and Emperours, then
my selfe. Therefore having now wandred through the
[I. iii. 98.] greatest part of Europe, and seene the chiefe Kingdomes
thereof, I sighed to my selfe in silence, that the Kingdome
424

A JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM

of Spaine was shut up from my sight, by the long warre
betweene England and Spaine, except I would rashly
cast my selfe into danger, which I had already unadvisedly
done, when I viewed the Citie and Fort of Naples, and
the Citie of Milan. And howsoever now being newly
returned home, I thought the going into more remote
parts would be of little use to me, yet I had an itching
desire to see Jerusalem, the fountaine of Religion, and
Constantinople, of old the seate of Christian Emperours,
and now the seate of the Turkish Ottoman.
Being of this mind when I returned into England, it
happened that my brother Henrie was then beginning put out for
that voyage, having to that purpose put out some route lorrain
hundred pounds, to be repaied twelve hundred pounds travel.
upon his returne from those two Cities, and to lose it
if he died in the journey. I say he had thus put out
the most part of his small estate, which in England is
no better with Gentlemens younger sonnes, nor so good,
as with bastards in other places, aswell for the English
Law most unmeasurably favouring elder brothers, as (let
me boldly say it) for the ignorant pride of tithers, who
to advance their eldest sonnes, drive the rest to desperate
courses, and make them unable to live, or to spend any
money in getting understanding and experience, so as
they being in wants, and yet more miserable by their
Gentrie and plentifull education, must needes rush into
all vices; for all wise men confesse, that nothing is more
contrary to goodnesse, then poverty. My brother being
partner with other Gentlemen in this fortune, thought
this putting out of money, to be an honest meanes of
gaining, at least the charges of his journey, and the rather,
because it had not then been heard in England, that any
man had gone this long journey by land, nor any like
it, excepting only Master John Wrath, whom I name Master John for honour, and more specially hee thought this gaine
most honest and just; if this journey were compared
with other base adventures for gaine, which long before
this time had been, & were then in use. And I confesse:

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

that this his resolution did not at the first sight dislike
me. For I remembred, that this manner of gaine, had
of old been in use among the inhabitants of the Low
Countries, and the Sea-Coasts of Germany (and so it is
yet in use with them.) I remembred, that no meane
Lords, and Lords sonnes, and Gentlemen in our Court
had in like sort put out money upon a horserace, or
speedie course of a horse, under themselves, yea upon
a io.urney on f'oote. I considered, that those kindes of
galmng onely required strength of body, whereas this
and the like required also vigor of minde, yea, that they
often weakened the body, but this and the like alwaies
bettered the mind. I passe over infinite examples of
the former customes, and will onely adde, that Earles,
Lords, Gentlemen, and all sorts of men, have used time
out of mind to put out money to bee repaied with
advantage upon the birth of their next childe, which
kinde of galne can no way bee compared with the
adventures of long iournies; yea, I will boldly say, it
is a base gaine, where a man is so hired to that daliance
with his wife, and to kill a man, so he may get a boy,
as if he were to be incouraged to a game of Olympus.
Being led with these reasons, I liked his counsell, and
made my selfe his consort in that iourny. _And I had
now given out upon like condition mony to some few
friends, when perceiving the common opinion in this
point to be much differing From mine, and thereupon
better considering this matter, and observing (as a stranger
that had beene long out of my Countrey) that these kind
of adventures were growne very frequent, whereof some
were undecent, some ridiculous; and that they were in
great part undertaken by bankerouts, and men of base
condition, I might easily iudge that in short time they
would become disgracefull, whereupon I changed my
4nltnlinn mind. For I remembred the Italian Proverbe, La
Proverbe. bellezza di putana, la forza del' fachino, &c. nulla vagliano,
that is, the beauty of a Harlot, the strength of the Porter,
and (to omit many like) Musicke it selfe, and all vertues,
426

A JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM A.D.
I595.
become lesse prized in them, who set them out to sale.
Also I remembred the pleasant fable, that Jupiter sent
raine upon a Village, wherewith whosoever was wet
became a foole, which was the lot of all the Inhabitants, J,,#te,"
excepting one man, who by chance for dispatching of tede.
businesse, kept within doores that day; and that when
he came abroad in the evening, all the rest mocked him,
as if they had beene wise, and he onely foolish: so as [I. iii. 99-]
he was forced to pray unto Jupiter for another like shower,
wherein he wetted himselfe also, chusing rather to have
the love of his foolish neighbours, being a foole, then
to be dispised of them, because he was onely wise. And
no doubt in many things wee must follow the opinion
of the common people, with which it is better (regarding
onely men) to be foolish, then alone to be wise. I say
that I did for the aforesaid causes change my mind; and
because I could not make that undone which was done,
at least I resolved to desist from that course. Onely I
gave out one hundred pound to receive three hundred
at my returne among my brethren, and some few kinsmen
receir,e three
and dearest friends, of whom I would not shame to unered.
confesse that I received so much of g.ift. And lest by
spending upon the stocke, my patrimony should be
wasted, I moreover gave out to five friends, one hundred
pound, with condition that they should have it if I died,
or after three yeeres should repay it with one hundred
and fifty pound gaine if I returned; which I hold a
disadvantageous adventure to the giver of the money.
Neither did I exact this money of any man by sure of
Law after my returne, which they willingly and presently
paid me, onely some few excepted, who retaining the
very money I gave them, deale not therein so gentleman-
like with me, as I did with them. And by the great
expences of my journy, much increased by the ill accidents
of my brothers death, and my owne sickenesse, the three
hundred fifty pounds I was to receive of gain after my
return ; & the one hundred pounds which my brother
and I carried in our purses, would not satisfie the five

Lewerden.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

by water one mile over a Lake to Bolsworth, and each
man paid two stivers and a halle for his passage, and
eight stivers and a halle for his dinner. In the afternoone
we hired a boat for three miles to Lewerden, and each
man paid sixe stivers for his passage, and thirty foure
stivers for his supper and breakefast, with wlne. The
next day in the morning, we might have passed to
Groning, in a common boat, each man paying twelve
stivers: but because the covetous Marriners had over-
loaded it, and the winds were boisterous, we foure consorts
hired a private boate for seven guldens and a halle. The
first day we passed by water five miles, to Kaltherberg,
that is, the cold Inne, with a very faire wind; but so
boysterous, as we were in no small feare. Here each
man paid twelve stivers for his supper, and seven stivers
for his drinke, while in good fellowship we sate at the
tier after supper. The next day we passed in the same
Great danger boat two miles to Groning, in a great tempest of wind;
t,-ot, g a lost besides that in the midst of the Lake we lost our Rudder,
Rudder. being thereby in great danger, had not the waves of the
water (by Gods mercy) driven it to us. Here we paid
eight stivers each man for a plentifull dinner, but without
wne. In the afternoone we passed by water two miles
to Delphs Ile, and each man paid forty stivers for the
hier of the boate, and twenty foure stivers for supper
and breakefast, and fire in our private chamber.
From hence we sayled with a most faire wind, in two
houres space two miles to Emden, the first City of the
German Empire, seated in East-Friezland, and each man
paid sixe st,vers for his passage, and as much for his
dinner. In the afternoone we passed in a boat hired for
foure guldens (whereof each man paid ten stivers for his
part) three miles to a little City Lyre, and by the way
passed by the Fort Nordlire, in which the Earle of Emden
Christmas held his Court. We rested at Lyre this night and the
Day at Lyre. next day, being Christmas day by the old stile, and each
man paid sixteene stivers for each supper, and eight stivers
for one dinner. The Spanish Garisons daily sent out

43 z

FROM EMDEN TO BREMEN

free-booters into these parts, with the permission of the
Earle of Emden, (for his hatred to the Citizens of Emden,
who lately had shut him out of their City); and of the
Earle of Oldenburge (for his hatred against the Citizens
of Breme). Therefore we being here many passengers,
did at last obtaine of the Earle of Emden, that we might The E,,-le of
bier his souldiers to conduct us safely for some few miles.
To these souldiers we gave twenty one dollers, yet when
at the three miles end we came to the Village Stickhausen,
and were now in the greatest danger, they (as hired to
goe no further) would needes returne, till each of us gave
them a German gulden, to conduct us onely to the next
village, being the confines of the Counties of Emden and
Oldenburg. To which they were perswaded, not so much
by our prayers as by our reward, and once by the way,
to make shew of danger (as it seemed to me) lest we
should repent us of the money we had given them, they
rushed into some old houses, with such a noise, as if
they would have killed al they met, but no enemy
appeared, & if they had lurked there, I think they would
not have fought with the Earles souldiers who favoured
them, as on the other side, if they had assaulted them,
I doubt whether our mercinary souldiers would have lost
one dram of blood for our safety. As long as these
souldiers were with us, we partly went by water, (each
man paying 3- stivers for his passage) & partly on foot.
They being now dismissed, we went on foot a Dutch
mile, in the Territory of the Earle of Oldenburg., to
the Village Aopen, where each man paid foure stlvers
for his dinner. In the afternoone, we being many
consorts, hired divers waggons, paying for each of them
twenty five stivers to Oldenburg, being foure miles, and ol, te,b,rg.
we came thither by nine of the clock in the night, and
there each man paid fifteene groates for his supper and [I. iii. zoz.]
breakefast. The second day in the morning we went
foure miles to Dolmenhurst, and each man paid two
copstucks for his Waggon. Then sixe of us hired a
Waggon one mile to Breme for three copstucks, where
. i 433 2E

FROM NUREMBURG TO MANSFELDT

we foure paied for our owne and the Coach-mans bever,
supper, and dinner, two dollers and a halle.
From hence sixe consorts of us hired a Coach for thirty
dollers to Nurnberg, forty eight miles distant, and the
coach-man paid for his horse-meat, and we for his owne
meat, which hereafter divided among us I will reckon
in our severall expences. The first day at ten of the
clocke beginning our journey, we passed through fruitfull
hils of corne one mile, where we left on our left hand
Wolfenbeyten, (a City where the Duke of Brunswicke
keepes his Court), with a Village belonging to his brother
the Bishop of Ossenbruck. And there we met with
certaine of the Dukes hors-men, who kept the waies safe
from theeves, and at their request we bestowed on them
an Ort or fourth part of a doller. Then in the like way
we passed two miles and a halle to Rauchell, where each
of us paid for ours and the Coach-mans su.pper five silver
groshen. The second day in the mormng we passed
three miles and a halle to Halberstatt, where each man
paid in like sort for ours and the Coach-roans dinner halle
a doller. Our journy this day was through fruitfull hils
of corne, not inclosed, and groves and woods in a fruitfull
and pleasant Country. The Duke of Brunswicke is called
the Administrator of the Bishoppricke of Halberstatt,
and hath the rents thereof. After dinner we passed one
mile to Ermersleben, subject to the Duke of Brunswicke,
through a plaine more pleasant then the former, having
no inclosures, but being fruitfull in corne, and full of
Villages; where wee foure English consorts paid twenty
three silver groshen for our owne and the Coach-roans
supper. I have omitted the quality of the soyle, in places
which I have formerly discribed, which now I mention
againe, because th_s is the first time I passed from
Brunswicke to Nurnburg. The third day in the morning
we passed in a dirty way (but through most pleasant hils,
and fruitfull of corne, but having no woods, nor so much
as a tree,) two miles to Mansfield.
The Counts of Mansfield well knowne Captaines in
435

Nurnberg.

Mansfield.

FROM MANSFELDT TO ERFURT

of wood. Here each of us paid a quarter of a doller
for our owne and the Coach-many dinner.
In the afternoone we passed a dirty way; but through
fruitfull come fields, foure miles to Sangerhausen, where
each of us in like sort paid the fourth part of a doller
and a grosh for our supper. This being the first Village
of the Province Thuring, .belongs to the Elector of Te Provinc
Saxony. The fourth day m the morning wee passed
through most pleasant & fruitfull hils of come, adorned
with some pleasant woods, (which in higher Germany are
of firre, that is greene all winter,) foure miles m the
territory of the Elector of Saxony, to a Countrey Inne;
where having nothing but egges for our dinner, we paid
jointly ten silver grosh. After dinner we passed in the
same Electors territory, and through the like soyle (or
Countrey) three miles and a halfe to a Countrey Inne,
where we had to supper a pudding as big as a many legge,
and grosse meat, and straw for our beds; and jointly
paid foureteene grosh. The fifth day early in the
morning we passed through the like way, but more
pleasant for the plenty of Vines, two miles to the City Te City
of Erfurt, where we foure English consorts with our Erfurt.
Coach-man paied jointly a doller and twenty one grosh
for our dinner, with sower wine of the Countrey. This
City is seated in a plaine, and is a free City, but not
an imperiall City, and paies some tribute to the Bishop
of Metz, and to the Saxon Duke of Wineberg. It is
large, being a Dutch mile in compasse, but the houses
are poorely built of timber and clay, having the roofes
covered with tiles of wood, and they seeme to be built
of old. It hath forty two Churches, but onely sixteene Forty-two
are used for divine service : namely, eight for the Papists, Curces.
(among which are the two Cathedrall Churches, under
the power of the Archbishop of Metz,) and eight for
the Protestants or Lutherans. This is the chiefe City
of Thuring, and of old here was an University, but time
hath dissolved it. After dinner at the first going out
of the City, wee ascended a very high mountaine, where-
437

AoDo
595.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

upon is a pleasant wood of firre. Then we passed by
lrmstat. the beautifull little City of Armstat, I call it beautifull,
for the seate in a firtile soyle, having drie and pleasant
walkes, and for the plenty of fountaines and groaves, and
for the magnificence of the Castle, wherein the Count of
Schwartzburg keepes his Court, finally for the uniforme
building of the City, which some fifteene yeeres past
was burnt to the ground, and was since rebuilded, and
so comming from Erfurt, we passed three long miles to
the Village Blaw, subject to the Count of Schwartzburg;
where jointly we paid foureteene grosh for our supper.
[I. iii. 204. ] The sixth day we passed three miles through wooddy
mountaines, to the Village Fraw-im-Wald, (that is, our
Our Lady in Lady in the wood), which Village is subject to the said
the wood. Count; and here we paied jointly thirty seven grosh
and a halfe for our dinner. After dinner wee passed three
miles through mountaines covered with snow, and woods
of firre to Eysfield, subject to the Saxon Duke of Coburg.
For this wood of Thuring, (vulgarly called Thuringwald)
hath many Lords, namely, the Elector of Saxony, the
Saxon Dukes of Wineberg & Coburg, and the Count
Schwartzburg. The Duke of Coburg hath in this place
a faire Castle, and we paid jointly for us foure and the
Coach-man sixty foure grosh for our supper and breake-
fast. The seventh day in the morning we passed three
miles over dirty mountaines, and fruitfull in corne, to
Coburg seated in the Province of Franconia. They say
Cot$,rg, te this City was of old called Cotburg, that is, the City of
city of dirt. dirt, and the dirty streetes well deserve the name. Here
one of the Dukes of Saxony called of Coburg kept his
Court, and our Host told us that his Dutchesse for
adultery was then bricked up in a wall, the place being
so narrow, as shee could onely stand, and having no
dore, but onely a hole whereat they gave her meat. The
building of the City was very base of timber and clay.
Here we five paid sixteene grosh for our dinner. In
the afternoone we passed two miles, to the Towne
Clawsen, through fruitfull hils of corne, and in a most
438

FROM COBURG TO MANNHEIM A.).
i 595-
dirty way, where we five paid forty nine grosh for our
supper; and the Towne is subject to the Popish Bishop
of Bamberg. The eight day we passed foure miles to
Bamberg, through a fruitfull plaine of corne, and pleasant Bamlerg.
hils planted with vines, and in a most dirty way. This
City is the seate of the Bishop of Bamberg. By the
way we passed by a Ferry the River Menus, running
to Franckfort. Here we five paid thirty seven grosh
for our dinner. In the afternoone we passed through a
wood of firre in a sandy soyle, and then through fruitfull
fields of corne and pleasant hils, three mile unto a Village
subject to the Margrave of Anspach, (from which a City
subject to the Bishop of Bamberg, is not farre distant,
for the Princes dominions in these parts are mingled one
with the other); and here we five paid fifty five grosh
for our supper. The ninth day we passed three miles
through a sandy and barren plaine, and woods of firre
alwaies greene, to a Village subject to the said Margrave,
where we five paid forty grosh for our dinner. In the
afternoone we passed three miles, through the like way,
to Nurnburg, and being now free from paying for our Nulvburg.
Coach-man, each of us paid here six batzen each meale,
and foure creitzers each day for our chamber. This City
I have formerly discribed, and so passe it over.
Here we hired a Coach, being seven consorts, for
twelve Dutch guldens, to Augsburg, being nineteene
miles distant. The first day after breakefast we passed
through Nurnburg wood two miles, and in the said
Margraves territory (who is of the Family of the Electors
of Brandeburg,) foure miles to Blinfield; and each of
us paid ten batzen for our supper, and foure batzen for
a banquet after supper. The second day in the morning
we passed foure miles to the City Monheyme, subject Monheyme.
to the Phaltz-grave of the Rheine, and here each of us
paid halle a gulden for his dinner. By the way, in this
mornings journey, we did see Weyssenburg, a free but
not imperiall City, protected by Nurnburg. The Mar-
grave of Anspach, Lord of this territory, hath a Fort
439

FROM AUGSBURG TO INNSPRUCK

sixe miles to an Inne neere Landsperg. The second day
in the morning, through fruitfull Hilles and Woods of
Firre, greene at this time of the yeere, we rode foure
miles to Schongaw, and after dinner through Mountaines
covered with snow, route miles to Amberg. The third
day in the morning we rode two miles to the Village
Wartenkerken, and after dinner sixe short miles to
Seyfeld, and in the midest of the way a Bridge divides
the Dukedome of Bavaria from the County of Tyrall.
At Seyfeld there is a Church built in memory of a Gentle-
man, swallowed up by the gaping earth (as they say) The Fate of a
because being to receive the Sacrament, hee demaunded ScoUr.
in scoffe a great piece of bread. The fourth day in the
morning, wee rode three miles to Inspruck, the chiefe
Citie of Tyrall, subject to the Familie of Austria, where
being at the top of the Alpes, the Mountaines beganne
to open towardes the South, and our mornings journey
was in a pleasant Plaine betweene the highest Mountaines.
Passing this plaine, they shewed us upon a high Moun-
taine (so high as we could scarce discerne the things they
shewed, though of great bignesse) ; I say, they shewed us
the statua of the Emperour Maximilian, proportionable The
to his body, and a great Crucifix erected by him upon Emerour
this occasion. One day when he hunted, and wandring Maximilian
from his company, lost himselfe, so as he had no hope to lost in a wood.
get out of those most thick woods, and most high
Mountaines, there appeared to him a man, or (as they
said) his good Angell, who led him through wilde vast
Woods, till he came in safetie, and then vanished away,
in memorie whereof, they say the Emperour erected these
monuments.
In this Citie of Inspruck, and in the Cathedrall Church Inspruck.
thereof, is the Sepulcher of the said Emperour, and there
be many Images partly of Brasse, partly of Marble
erected to the Archdukes of Austria, and eight of Brasse
erected to the Arch-Dutchesses. Among them was the
sepulcher of Philippina, a Citizens Daughter of Augsburg,
whom the Arch-Duke Ferdinand (lately buried, and lying

441

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Ciprus to Joppa, whence they had but fortie miles to
Jerusalem, they were very desirous of our company, and
with great earnestnesse gave us confidence, that they
would procure the said Guardian and Fryers at Jerusalem
to doe us all courtesie in their power, and so perswaded
us to commit our selves to their company and protection.
I will adde for the instruction of others, that the said
Ue of Janizare useth to be hired for eight Aspers a day, and if he
Janizares. take this charge of any roans safetie from an Ambassadour,
or any Christian Officer of account, bee will easily save
a man more then his wages, in governing his expences,
and keeping him from those extortions, which the Turkes
use to doe upon Christians, as also from all their
injuries. But I returne to the purpose; We lying at
Venice, and while our health was yet sound, and our
Crownes unspent, desiring with all possible speede to
finish our voyage into Turky, did by good hap light
French upon French consorts for our journey, namely, two
Consorts for Franciscan Friers, one Eremitan Frier, and two honest
ourjo,r, cy. young Frenchmen, both Citizens of Bloys in France,
and one of them a Burgers sonne, the other a Notarie
of the Citie, and lastly a Flemming or Dutchman,
Citizen of Emden in East Freezeland. This Fleming
was a fat man, borne to consume victuals, & he had now
spent in his journy to Venice thirty pound sterling, and
here for his journey to Jerusalem had already put into the
ship full Hogs-heads of Wine, and store of all victuals,
when suddenly he changed his minde, for feare of a great
Rhume wherewith he was troubled, or being discouraged
with the difficulty of the journey, and would needs
returne to Emden, with purpose (if hee were to be
believed) to returne the next Spring to some place neere
Jerusalem, in an English ship, which he thought more
commodious. He professed, that he had put much
money out upon his returne, and since hee was old, and
very sickly, and after so long a journey, and so much
money spent, would needes returne home, I cannot thinke
that he ever undertooke this journey againe.
446

FROM VENICE TO JERUSALEM

Many Papists thinke they must have the Popes Licence
to goe this journey, and Villamont a French Gentlemen
writes, that otherwise they incurre the censure of the
Church, and affirmes that the Pope writ under his licence
these words ; Fiat quod petitur, that is, let that be granted
which is craved, and under the remission of his sinnes,
Fiat Fmlix, that is; Let him be made happy: And he
addes, that he was forced to take as much paines, and to
spend as much, and to use as much helpe of the Popes
Ocers, for the obtaining of these two sutes, as if he
had beene a suter for a Bishoppricke. But 1 know many
Papists, that have gone from Venice to Hierusalem, who
either cared not for this licence, or never thought upon
it; and howsoever it may give some credulous men hope
of fuller indulgence or merit, surely it will serve them
for no other use. Among our consorts I never heard
any mention thereof, neither did the Friars at Jerusalem
inquire after it. When I first began to thinke of under-
taking this journey, it was told me that each Ascension
day, a Venetian gally was set forth to carry Pilgrimes to
Jerusalem. But it seemes that this custome s growne
out of use, since few are found in these dales who under-
take this journey, in regard of the Turkes imposing
great exactions, and doing foule injuries to them. For
the very Friars, which every third yeere are sent into
those parts, to doe divine duties to the Papist Merchants
there abiding; (the Friars formerly sent being recalled),
use to passe in no other then common Merchants ships.
In the end of March we had the opportunity of a ship
passing into Asia, (which at that time of the yeere is not
rare). This ship was called the lesse Lyon, and the
Master, (whom the Italians cal Patrono) was Constantine
Coluri a Grecian, (as most part of the Marriners are
Greekes, the Italians abhorring from being sea men):
Concerning diet, some agreed with the Steward of the
ship (called Ilscalco) and they paid by the moneth foure
silver crownes, (each crowne at seven lyres), and I marked
their Table was poorely served. For our part we agreed
447

The Pope's
licence.

[I. iii. 208.]

L y olI.

AiD.
1595-
The Master's
charge for hi
Table.

Provision for
tra,elers

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

with the Master himselfe, who for seven gold crownes by
the month paid by each of us, did curteously admit us to
his Table, and gave us good diet, serving each man with
his knife and spoone, and his forke (to hold the meat
whiles he cuts it, for they hold it ill manners that one
should touch the meat with his hand), and with a glasse
or cup to drinke in peculiar to himselfe. Hee gave us
wine mingled with water, and fresh bread for two or
three dales after we came out of any harbour, and other-
wise bisket, which we made soft by soaking it in wine or
water. In like sort, at first setting forth he gave us fresh
meates of flesh, and after salted meates, and upon fasting
dayes he gave us egges, fishes of divers kinds, dried or
pickled, sallets, sod Rice, and pulse of divers kinds ; Oyle
in stead of butter, Nuts, fruit, Cheese, and like things.
Also we agreed that if our journey were ended before
the moneth expired, a rateable proportion of our money
should be abated to us. Each of us for his passage
agreed to pay five silver crownes of Italy. And howso-
ever, I thinke they would not have denied us wine, or
meat betweene meales, if we had beene drie or hungry;
yet to avoide troubling of them, my selfe and my
brother carried some flaggons of rich wine, some very
white bisket, some pruines and raisins, and like things:
And to comfort our stomackes in case of weakenesse, we
carried ginger, nutmegs, and some like things; and for
remedies against agues, we carried some cooling sirops,
and some pounds of sugar, and some laxative medicines.
Also we carried with us two chests, not onely to lay up
these things, but also that we might sleepe and rest upon
them at pleasure, and two woollen little mattresses to
lie upon, and foure quilts to cover us, and to lay under us,
which mattresses and quilts we carried after by land, or
else we should have beene farre worse lodged in the
houses of Turkes : besides that many times we lay in the
field under the starry cannopy. In stead of sheetes we
used linnen breeches, which we might change at pleasure.
Howsoever all Nations may use their owne apparel1 in
448

1596.

I dand in the
Fenice.

The South
East winde
called
S.rocco.

Raguza.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

on the North side, and the shoare of Italy on the South
side. And the same night wee sayled by the Iland
Ischa, and the next morning being Friday, by the Ilands
Buso, Aulto, Catsa, and towards the evening, by the
llands Cazola, Augusta, and Palaofa: for in this Gulfe
of Venice bee many Ilands, whereof the most are subject
to Venice, and the rest to Raguza, and other Lords, and
some towards the North-shoare to the great Turke.
Heere great store of Dolphines followed our ship;
and the voyce of the Marriners (as they use to doe), and
they playing about us, did swimme as fast as if they had
flowne. Then wee did see the Iland Liozena, being all
of Mountaines, subject to Venice, and inhabited by
Gentlemen, where the Venetians had built a strong Fort
upon the Haven for their Gallies. And after five miles
wee did see the Iland Curzola, subject to Venice, and
having a Bishop. And the winde being high, wee cast
anchor neere Curzola, but the winde soone falling, we
set sayle againe.
From the sixe and twentie of Aprill, to Thurseday the
second of May, the South-East winde (which the Italians
call Syrocco) did blow very contrary unto us. The third
of May being Friday, towards the evening, we were
driven upon the Northerne shoare, and did see the Fort
Cataro, built on a Mountaine upon the continent, against
Turkish Pirats, and distant eighteene miles from Raguza,
the chiefe Citie of Sclavonia, which is free, yet payes
tribute to the Venetians and Turks, their powerful neigh-
bors. Not farre thence the Turks also had a Fort, built
against the Venetians. Raguza is some one hundred
miles distant from the Iland Andrea, and some foure
hundred miles from Venice.
Upon Saturday we sayled by the Promontorie of Saint
Mary on the North side, and Otranto a Citie of Apulia
in Italy on the South side, seeing them both plainely:
for now we were passing out of the Gulfe of Venice, into
the Mediterranean sea, by this Straight, some sixtie miles
broad, and some two hundred miles distant from Raguza.
454

COMMENTS UPON CEPHALONIA

Here we did overtake a ship of Venice, called
Ragazona, and that we might enjoy one anothers
company, the Sea being calme for the time, our ship being
the lesse (yet of some nine hundred Tunnes), was fastned
to the Sterne of the other ship by a Cable, and towards
the evening upon the Greeke shore towards the North,
wee did see Vallona.
Now we were come forth of the Adriatique Sea, other-
wise called the Gulfe of Venice, which hath in length some
sixe hundred Italian miles, and the breadth is divers,
sometimes two hundred miles, sometimes lesse, betweene
Ancona and the opposite Haven Valdagosta seventie
miles, and in the Straight we now passed sixtie miles
broad. On Sunday the fifth of May we did see the
Mountaine Fanon, (and as I remember an Iland) three
miles distant from the Iland Corfu, and upon the Greeke
shoare beyond the Iland, we did see the most high
Mountaines called Chimer, inhabited by the Albanesi,
who neither subject to the Turkes nor Venetians, nor any
other, doe upon occasion rob all; and the Venetians, and
the Kings of France, and especially of Spaine, use to hire
them in their warres. The sixth of May wee sayled by
the Promontory, called the Cape of Corfu (the description
of which Iland I will deferre till my returne this way.)
On Tuesday the seventh of May, wee sailed by the Iland
Paro verie neere us, and the Iland Saint Maura joyned
by a bridge to the continent of Epirus, and subject to the
Turkes, and the Iland Ithaca (vulgarly called by the
Italians Compare) also subject to the Turkes, and famous
for their King Ulysses, and some foure miles distant from
the Iland Cepholania, which towards evening wee did see,
being distant some one hundred miles from Corfu.
On Wednesday early in the morning, wee entered a
narrow Sea, some two miles broad, having Cephalonia
the lesse on the North side, and the greater Cephalonia
on the South side, and wee cast anchor neere a desart
Rocke (where of old there was an Universitie), and many
of us, in our boat (sent with Mariners to cut wood, and
455

Good
Company.

The lland
Co.

C ephalonia.

[I. iii. z 12.]

I 9 6.

4 noble
licto ie
against the
Turkes.

C urr ands.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

take fresh water), did go on land in the greater Cepholania,
to refresh our selves, and to wash our bodies in the Sea
water: but wee durst not goe farre from our Marriners,
lest the inhabitants of those woodie Mountaines should
offer us violence. Both the Ilands are subject to Venice,
and abound with wines and small Currends, and in time
of warre the Inhabitants retire to a Fort, built there by
the Venetians, to be safe from the Turks. The Venetians
every third yeere chuse some of their Gentlemen, to be
sent hether for Governour and Officers.
The same Wednesday the eight of May, towards the
evening, we set saile, and before darke night passed by the
Promontary, called the Cape of Cepholania, and did see
on the North side the Ilands Corsolari some ten miles
distant, where the Navy of the Pope, King of Spathe,
and Venetians confederate, having Don John of Austria,
base brother to King Phillip of Spathe for their Generall,
obtained a noble Victorie in the yeere x57 x against the
Navy of the Turkes, the Christians hiding there many of
their Gallies, that the Turkes comming out of the Gulfe
of Corinth (now called the Gulfe of Lepanto) might
despise their number, and so be more easily drawne to
fight. In the mouth of the said Gulfe, upon the West
shoare, is the Castle of Torah (or Torneze) seated in
Peloponesus, a Province of Greece, which the Turkes call
Morea, and in the bottom of the Gulfe, Petrasso is seated
in the same Province, and Lepanto in the Province of
Achaia, and of these Cities this Gulfe of Corinth, is in
these dayes called sometimes the Gulfe of Lepanto, some-
times the Gulfe of Petrasso. In the Citie of Petrasso
the English Merchants live, having their Consull, and
they trafficke especially for Currands of Corinth. Neere
Cepholania great store of Dolphins did againe swimme
about our ship (which they say doe foretell, that the
winde will blow from that quarter, whether they swimme,)
and the same date in the maine Sea, greater Dolphins,
and in greater number, did play about our ship.
On Thurseday in the morning we did leave on the
456

596.
/1 Marriners
superstition.

[I. iii. 2 3.]

No place more
safe against
theeves than a
sip.

Cyprus.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

negligent fashion of the French, he turned the cleane side
of his trencher upward: for of all men the Marriners,
and of all Marriners the Greekes and Italians are most
superstitious; and if any thing in the ship chance to be
turned up-side downe, they take it for an ill signe, as if
the ship should be overwhelmed. Otherwise I never
observed, that either the chiefe or inferiour Mariners ever
used the least disrespect to any passenger, being rather
loving and familiar to them in conversation. And I
remember that my brother Henry using to walke upon
the highest hatches, the Patron, and Scrivano, and others,
did with smiling observe his fast walking and melancholy
humour, yet howsoever it was troublesome to them, did
onely once, and that curteously reprove him, or rather
desire him that he would have respect to the Mariners,
who watched al night for the publike safety, and were
then sleeping under the hatches. Alwaies understand
that a man may not bee so bold in another mans house
as in his owne, and may yet lesse be bold in a ship of
strangers; and that an unknowne passenger must of all
other be most respective. And whereas Mariners are
held by some to be theevish, surely in the Haven at the
journies end, (where theeves easily find receivers), it is
good to be wary in keeping that belongs to you: but at
sea no place is more safe then a shippe, where the things
stolne, are easily found, and the offenders severely
punished.
On Sunday the nineteenth of May, we came to the
first Promontory of the Iland Cyprus, towards the West,
and after eight houres sayling, we came to the old City
Paphos (or Paphia), now called Baffo, and the wind
failing us, and gently breathing upon this Castle of Venus,
we hovered here all the next night, gaining little or
nothing on our way. This place is most pleasant, with
fruitfull hils, and was of old consecrated to the Goddesse
Venus, Qgeene of this Iland ; and they say that Adamants
are found here, which skilfull Jewellers repute almost as
precious as the Orientall. A mile from this place is the
458

COMMENTS UPON CYPRUS

596.

Cave, wherein they faigne the seven sleepers to have slept,
I know not how many hundred yeeres. The twenty one
of May towards the evening, we entred the Port of
Cyprus, called Le Saline, & the two & twentieth day
obtaining licence of the Turkish Cady to goe on land, we
lodged in the Village Larnica, within a Monastery of Larnita.
European Friars. Here some of us being to saile to
Joppa, and thence to goe by land to Jerusalem, did leave
the Venetian ship, which sailed forward to Scanderona.
The Turkes did conquer the Iland Ciprus from the
Venetians, in the yeere 57% and to this day possesse it,
the chiefe Cities whereof are Nicosia, (seated in the
middest of the Iland) and Famogosta (seated in the
furthest part of the Iland towards the East). The
Turkish Basha, or Governour, useth to chuse Famogosta
for his seate, (though Nicosia be the fairer City), because
it hath a good Haven, and a most strong Fort, which the
Venetians built. The Iland lieth two hundred & forty The bounds of
miles in length from the west to the East, and hath some Cyprus.
eighty miles in bredth, & six hundred miles in compasse.
This Iland is said to be distant some foure hundred miles
from the Iland of Candia, (which is some two hundred
and. thi.rty miles long: but I speake of the next Promon-
tories ,n both of them), and from Venice some two
thousand two hundred and twenty miles, from Alexandria
in /Egypt, some foure hundred and fifty miles, from
Alexandretta (at this day called Scanderona), the Haven
of Caramania, eighty miles, from Tripoli of Syria, ninety
miles, and from Joppa a Haven in Palestina, about two
hundred and fifty miles, speaking of the uttermost
Promontories on all sides.
This Iland yeeldeth to no place in fruitfulnesse or c_.p1-, ,ely
pleasure, being inriched with Come, Oile, Cheese, most
sweet Porkes, Sheepe, (having tailes that weigh more
then twenty pound) Capers (growing upon pricking
bushes) Pomegranats, Oranges, and like fruites; Canes
or Reedes of sugar, (which they beat in mils, drawing
out a water which they seeth to make sugar), with rich
459

FROM CYPRUS TO JOPPA

have added another condition, that the Master should not
carrie us to any Port, but that of Joppa, had not the rest
judged it unreasonable, to tie him for performance of
that, which was onely in the power of God, according
to the windes, which might force him to take harbor.
My selfe did familiarly know an English Gentleman, who An English
shortly after comming to Scanderona, and there taking gentleman
ship to passe by this shoare to Joppa, and so to lerusalem, likc
" sold for a
if an honest man had not forewarned him, had by the
treason of a Janizare in the way bin sold for a slave to
the inland Turks, whence he was like never to be
redeemed, being farre removed from Christians, who
onely trade upon the Coasts. And he was so terrified
with this danger, as he returned into England without
seeing Jerusalem, to which he had then a short journey,
only carrying with him a counterfet testimonie and seale
that he had been there, because he had put out much
money upon his returne.
I formerly said, that we lodged at Cyprus in a
Monastery, whence being now to depart, the Friers of
our company, and also the Lay-men, gave each of us
eight lires of Venice to the Guardian of the Monastery,
and one lire to the Frier that attended us, in the name
of gift or alines, but indeede for three dayes lodging and
dyet.
Upon Friday the twentie foure of May, we seven
Consorts (namely, two Franciscan Friers, one Erimitane
Frier, and two Lay men, all Frenchmen, and my selfe and
my brother) hired a boat in the Haven for foure lires of
Venice, to carrie us to the Cyprian Barke we had hired,
and we carried with us for our food, a cheese costing Charges.for
foure Aspers, a Jarre of Oyle costing sixe Aspers, and a od.
vessell of Wine (called Cuso, somewhat bigger then an
English barrell, and full of rich Wine, but such as fretted
our very intrals) costing one Zechine, and foure soldi of
Venice, and two Turkish aspers ; and egges costing twenty
three aspers, beside Bisket which we brought out of the
Greeke ship. In twilight (for the nights use not here
46i

Lerai$$o.

[I. iii. 2 1 5"]
Joppa.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

to be darke) we set saile, and were forced to goe backe
towards the West, along the shoare of Cyprus, to the
Promontory called Capo di Gatti, that is, the Cape of
Cats, that we might from thence (according to the
Marriners experience) fetch a faire winde. So we sailed
that evening thirtie miles (of Italy I meane) and the next
day twentie miles to a Village of Cyprus called Lemisso
(where Christians ships use to put in.) Here we cast
anchor, & all the six & twentie day of May expected a
winde, which we got at midnight following. Joppa is no
more then two hundred fiftie miles from Cyprus, and
may easily be run in two nights and a daies saile with a
faire winde, yet howsoever the wind was most favourable
to us, wee could see no land till Wednesday the twenty
nine of May, at which time we found our selves by the
ignorance of the Marriners to be upon the Coast of Egypt,
neere the Citie Damiata, which we might see seated upon
the banke of Nilus, and they said it was some sixe miles
from the Sea. Now our Marriners seeing the shoare,
knew better to direct our sayling, and the night following
we lay at anchor neere this shoare. Upon Thursday we
coasted the land of the Philistines, and first did plainely
see the Citie Gaza, and after thirtie miles sayle the Citie
Ascolon, neere which we cast anchor for that night.
Upon Friday being the last of May, after two miles
saile, we entered the Haven of Joppa. From hence we
sent a messenger hired for fourteene meidines, to the
Subasha of Ramma, intreating him that he would give
us leave to passe to Jerusalem, and send us a souldier to
protect us. The foresaid shore of the Philistines, seemed
to be a wild narrow and sandy plaine, neere the sea, with
mountaines pleasant and ffuitfull, towards the East upon
Palestine. The City of Joppa, mentioned in the scrip-
tures, had some ruines of wals standing, which shewed
the old circuit thereof, but had not so much as any ruines
of houses; onely we did see the exactors of tribute come
out of two ruinous Towers, and some ragged Arabians
and Turkes, lying (with their goods) within certaine
462

COMMENTS UPON JOPPA

caves, who also slept there, or in the open aire. These
goods are daily carried hither and from hence, upon the
backs of Caramels, whereof we might see many droves
laded both come and goe. For this cause we would not
land, but thought better to lie in our shippe, especially
since the place affoorded no entertainment for strangers,
and our Mariners brought us egges and fruites, and we
had with us wine and bisket, which notwithstanding we
did hide, lest the Arabians or Turkes should take it from
us, if they came to our Barke. The Haven is of little
compasse, but safe for small Barkes, and was of old
compassed with a bricke wall, the ruines whereof still
defend it from the waves of the sea. The situation of
Joppa is pleasant, upon a hill declining towards the sea,
and the fields are fertile, but were then untilled. Here
the Prophet Jonas did take ship, as it were to file from Teprophet
God, and the Machabei (as appeares in the first booke Jonas.
and twelfth chapter) here burnt the ships : and the Apostle
Peter 1.odging in the house of Simon, was taught the
conversion of the Gentiles by a vision; and here he
raised up Tabitha from death, as the Holy Scriptures
witnes.
Upon Munday the third of June, at nine of the clocke
in the morning, the Subasha of Ramma sent us a Horse-
man or Lancyer to guide us, and with him came the
Atalla, (that is, interpreter, whom the Italians call Drogo-
mano, who was a Maronite Christian, that used to guide
strangers). They brought us Asses to ride upon, (which /sses uset
they use there in stead of Horses, excepting onely the instead oJ
souldiers), and with them came a Muccaro (so they call Horses.
those that hier out Asses, Mules, or Cammels). We
presently landed about noone, and when my brother leaped
upon land, and according to the manner, bended downe
to kisse it, by chance he fell, and voided much blood at
the nose: and howsoever this be a superstitious signe of
ill, yet the event was to us tragicall, by. his death shortly
after happening. Here for our carnage (namely our
shirts, for the rest we had left in the Barke ;) we jointly
463

Lydda.

Pleasant
Orchardt.

[I. iii. 2 6.]

Ramma.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

paid five meydines for cafar, (that is Tribute) and the
Officers of Joppa extorted from each of us for his person,
halle a Spanish Reale, neither would they be pleased, till
each of us gave them two meydines in gift. Then we
jointly gave sixe meydines to our Muccaro for his dinner,
and five of free gift. Our Asses had pannels in stead of
saddles, ropes for bridles, and ropes laid crosse the pannels,
and knotted at the ends in stead of stirrups. The same
Monday in the afternoone, we rode ten miles to Ramma,
through a most pleasant plaine, yeelding time and hysope,
and other fragrant herbes, without tillage or planting,
growing so high, as they came to the knees of our Asses.
By the way on our left hand, not farre out of the high
way, lay the ruines of the City Lydda, where Saint Peter
cured one sicke of the palsie; and Saint George is said
to have suffered martyrdome, and that his head is yet
kept in a Greeke Church. We also passed by a Village,
having a moschee or Turkish Church, and being full of
pleasant Orchards of Figge-trees, Olive-trees, Pome-
granates, (bearing buds of flesh colour, and being like
a Barbery tree, by little and little covered with a greene
.rinde) and many kinds of fruites ; the abundance whereof
m these parts, we might easily guesse, when wee bought
in the Port of Joppa more then a thousand Abricots for
six Aspers, at which time, lest we should surfet on such
daintaies, (the untemperate eating whereof we had read
to have often killed many Europeans) we durst not eate
them raw, but sod the most part of them. Now upon
the third of June they had almost gathered in their
Harvest, and all the fields were full of Cotten, growing
like Cabbage two foote high, and yeelding a round Apple,
out of which they gather the Cotten. This Cotten is
sowed in Aprill, and gathered in September, and great
quantity thereof is carried from hence into Europe
At Ramma we were brought into a house, where
Pilgrimes use to be lodged, and it was of old great &
strong, but at this time more fit to lodge beasts then
men. Some say it was the House of Joseph of Arimathia,
464

FROM JOPPA TO JERUSALEM

A.Do
596.

others say it was Nicodemus his house, and there was
a fountaine of water, and a Court yard to walke in, but
the roomes were full of dust, and we hardly got straw
to lie upon. There were yet some marbles and ruines
of building, that shewed it to have beene a faire house.
The Maronite Christians brought us victuals, and they Maronite
sold us a pound of bisket for sixe meidines, twelve egs Chritiam.
for one meidine, a Cheese for one, Rice for two, some
two English quarts of wine for five, a salet for one, and
twelve Cakes, (they having no leavened bread) for foure
meidines. We that were Lay-men gave each of us sixe
Zechines, and each of the Friars five, into the hands of
our Interpreter, to be given to the Subasha for tribute,
or rather for our safe conduct. I know that favour is
done to Friars, especially by these Ministers belonging
to Monasteries, and we committed the ordering of our
expences to one of the Franciscan Friars, who had best
experience, so as it may be the Interpreter restored to
the Friars their money, or part of it: but I am sure
these my eies did see them pay so much. One in the
name of the Subasha, brought us for a present some
flaggons of a medicinall drinke, made of cooling hearbes,
and sold in the Tavernes, as we sell wine. We jointly
gave five meidines to a watch-man, appointed to keepe Watchrnan's
our doore, and protect us from wrong, who being a man hire.
of very great stature, was called Goliah, and he walked
all night at our gate, where he did sing or rather houle
with his hoarce voice continually. Some write that there
is onely due, one Zechine to the Subasha, another to the
Captaine of the Arabians, and twenty five meidines for
Cafar (or Tribute), and halle a Zechine to the Muccaro,
who let out their Asses to Pilgrimes, and that the guide
deceives the Christians of all the rest. I am sure that
the guide being of experience, delivers the Christians
fi-om many injuries offered them by the Arabians and
others, for which favour they cannot suciently requite
him; and if any deale sparingly with him, he complaines
of them to the Guardian of the Monastery at Jerusalem,
M. 465

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

who never suffers him to be sent away discontented,
neither wants he power himselfe to deceive the Christians
at his pleasure, if he beare that mind. At Ramma we
jointly gave one Zechine to our Muccaro, of whom we
hired our Asses.
And the fourth of June, having him onely to conduct
The journey us, we tooke our journey before day towards Jerusalem,
towards being thirty miles distant, (I meane of Italy). As we
Jerusalem. rode before day, our Muccaro warned us to be silent,
lest we should waken the ,Arabians, Turkeso or Theeves,
who then slept, and were like if they awaked to offer
us violence, or at least to extort some money from us.
The Arabians are not unlike the wild Irish, for they are
subject to the great Turke, yet being poore and farre
distant from his imperiall seat, they cannot be brought
to due obedience, much lesse to abstaine from robberies.
After we had rode ten miles, we did see upon a hill not
farre distant, on our right hand, the ruines of the House
The house of (or Pallace) of the good Thiefe crucified with our Saviour,
the Good
thiefe, which ruines yet remaine, and shew that the house was
of old stately built; as if he had beene a man of some
dignity, banished for robbing of passengers: and when
he was brought to the Magistrates hand, had beene
condemned to death for the same. From hence to the
very City of Jerusalem, the Mountaines or Rockes doe
continually rise higher and higher, till you come to the
City, our way hitherto having beene in a pleasant plaine,
rich in corne and pasture. These mountaines which we
after passed, seemed stony and barren, but yeelded
fi'agrant hearbes, and excellent corne growing betweene
the great stones, and some vallies were pleasant, as the
The rally of vally of Hieromia, (as I thinke the Prophet), where of
Hieromia. old was built a stately Church, which as then stood little
ruined; and neere it is a pleasant fountaine, where the
passengers use to drinke and to water their Asses. They
say that the said Prophet was borne there, and that the
place was of old called Anatoth. I said that excellent
corne growes betweene the great stones of these Moun-
466

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596.

FYNES MORYSON'S ITINERARY

Gate of Joppa, (written Jaffa, Giaffa, and Zaffa, by divers
Nations). At this gate we staied, till two Friars came
out of the Latine Monastery, and likewise the exactors
of Tribute came to us, and to them we paied each man
two zechines for tribute due to the great Turke, or at
least extorted from us, which done, the two Friars being
Italians, did lead us to the Monastery of the Latines.

END OF VOLUME I.

GLASGOW ." PRINTED AT THE UNIVERSITY PRESS BY ROBERT bIACl EHOSE AND CO. LTD.